Inflight magazine CROATIA Winter 2018-19 by Croatia Airlines

Š. Lugarov

Poštovani putnici!

Dear passengers,

Bliži se kraju još jedna godina u kojoj smo imali čast i zadovoljstvo podijeliti s vama mnoge prekrasne trenutke. S posebnim smo ponosom u našim zrakoplovima proslavili veličanstvene uspjehe naših sportaša. Poslije sjajnih hrvatskih nogometaša, svjetskih doprvaka, potkraj studenoga s nama su već letjeli svjetski prvaci − zlatni hrvatski tenisači, osvajači Davis Cupa. Čestitamo svim hrvatskim sportašima na velikim uspjesima kojima su nas razveseljavali tijekom godine.

Another year is about to end, a year in which we had the honour and the pleasure of sharing many wonderful moments with you. It was with a great sense of pride that we celebrated the magnificent successes of Croatia’s athletes aboard our flights. After Croatia’s brilliant football players, the world vice champions, Croatia’s new world champions flew with us at the end of November − Croatia’s golden tennis players, winners of the Davis Cup. We congratulate all Croatian athletes on their great successes with which they’ve brought us joy throughout the year. We’re also pleased that, this year, we’ve reached record traffic results − due to a growth of passenger traffic, we recorded our two millionth passengers 16 days earlier than last year. We’re expecting to fly 2,200,000 passengers aboard our flights by the end of the year, which is the largest number of passengers flown within a year. We’re also pleased with another award. Our magazine, with which we’ve been trying to make the moments you spend aboard our flights more enjoyable for almost 25 years, has received the Marco Polo − Famous Travel Writer award for the promotion of Croatian tourism at home and abroad awarded by FIJET, the World Federation of Travel Journalists and Writers. We’re grateful for the award, and I believe that you’ll enjoy the different pages created by the hard work and dedication of our associates. Dear passengers, I wish both you and your families a heartfelt merry Christmas and a happy New Year with many joyous moments, peace, good health and success. I hope that we’ll be flying you to meet your loved ones more often, while we continue to strive to make your flights with us as pleasant and as relaxed as possible. I sincerely thank you for your trust, and believe that we’ll meet your expectations.

Raduje i to što i mi ove godine bilježimo rekordne prometne učinke − zbog rasta putničkog prometa ove smo godine dvomilijuntog putnika dočekali 16 dana prije nego lani. U našim se zrakoplovima do kraja godine očekuje 2,200.000 putnika, što je najveći broj na godišnjoj razini. Raduje nas još jedna nagrada. Naš časopis, kojim gotovo punih 25 godina nastojimo uljepšati vaše trenutke u našem zrakoplovu, dobio je nagradu Marco Polo − slavni putopisac za promidžbu hrvatskog turizma u zemlji i inozemstvu, koju dodjeljuje FIJET, svjetsko udruženje turističkih novinara i pisaca. Zahvaljujemo na nagradi i vjerujem da ćete i u ovome broju uživati u raznovrsnim sadržajima nastalima trudom i izvrsnošću naših suradnika. Dragi putnici, vama i vašim obiteljima od srca čestitam Božić, a u novoj vam godini želim mnogo sretnih trenutaka, mir, zdravlje i uspjeh. Nadam se da će vas naši zrakoplovi još češće voditi u susrete s vašim najmilijima, a mi ćemo se i dalje truditi da vam letovi s nama proteknu ugodno i opušteno. Iskreno vam zahvaljujem na povjerenju i vjerujem da ćemo ispuniti vaša očekivanja.

Jasmin Bajić Predsjednik Uprave / President & CEO

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2018

SADRŽAJ CONTENTS

10 Razgovor DALIBOR MATANIĆ, UVIJEK KORAK ISPRED Nakon uspjeha u Cannesu s filmom Zvizdan, nagrađivani zagrebački redatelj snimio je televizijsku seriju Novine, koju je otkupio Netflix. U Italiji se upravo snima nastavak Zvizdana, film Zora. Interview DALIBOR MATANIĆ, ALWAYS A STEP AHEAD After his success in Cannes with his film The High Sun, the award-winning filmmaker from Zagreb shot a television series called The Paper, which was bought by Netflix. In Italy, he’s currently shooting the sequel to The High Sun − the movie Dawn.

Zima/Winter 2018/19 www.croatiaairlines.com

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak This is your personal copy 2 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2018

Baština SRETNI DVORAC MILJANA Miljana je sretni dvorac jer svoj opstanak zahvaljuje tomu što su u njemu uvijek živjeli oni koji su ga nastojali očuvati.

Nacionalni parkovi PLITVICE, ČAROLIJA SNIJEGA I LEDA Snijegom prekrivene staze, injem ukrašena stabla, zaleđena jezera − sve je to dio plitvičke zimske čarolije.

Heritage MILJANA, THE FORTUNATE CASTLE Miljana is a fortunate castle, because it owes its continuance to the fact that it has always been the residence of those who’ve aspired to preserve it.

National parks PLITVICE LAKES, A MAGIC OF SNOW AND ICE Snow-covered tracks, trees trapped in frost, frozen lakes − all this is part of the winter magic on Plitvice Lakes.

49 Gastro VRHUNSKE DELICIJE U RUSTIKALNOM UGOĐAJU U izletištima nedaleko od Zagreba osjetite dašak tradicije i uživajte u vrhunskim gastronomskim delicijama i ponajboljim vinima. Gastro TOP QUALITY DELICACIES IN A RUSTIC ATMOSPHERE At excursion sites not far from Zagreb, take in a bit of tradition, relish mouth-watering delicacies and the best of wines.

Tvoj stav, tvoj stil. #epicmodeon Široka maska, futuristička grafika stražnjih svjetala i nepogrješiv dizajn kao nasljeđe legendarnog originalnog quattro modela. I stil i stav.

Novi Audi A1 Sportback

Epic Mode On

Više informacija doznajte na www.audi.hr ili kod ovlaštenog Audi partnera: OSIJEK: AutoZubak, Martina Divalta 326, tel.: 031/ 562 310 | RIJEKA: Porsche Inter Auto Rijeka, Škurinjska cesta 2c, tel.: 051/ 208 270 SPLIT: Audi centar Split, Kralja Držislava 51, tel.: 021/ 682 200 | ZADAR: Auto Hrvatska Automobili, F. Lisice 85, tel.: 023/ 344 815 | ZAGREB: AutoZubak, Ljudevita Posavskog 7a, Sesvete, tel.: 01/ 2030 200 | Porsche Inter Auto Jankomir, Velimira Škorpika 21-23. tel.: 01/ 5501 900 Kombinirana potrošnja goriva: 4,8 - 4,9 l/100 km. Kombinirana potrošnja CO2 emisija: 108 - 111 g/km. Slika je simbolična.

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2018

Natural beauties NIN, A WINTER PARADISE FOR BIRDS Nin is sunny even in winter. While the rest of Europe is trapped in ice and snow, because of its mild Mediterranean climate, Nin’s salt marsh that doesn’t freeze over is ideal for the wintering of birds.

D. Fabijanić - Miljana

Prirodne ljepote NINSKA LAGUNA, ZIMSKI RAJ ZA PTICE Nin je i zimi osunčan. Dok je ostatak Europe okovan snijegom i ledom, zbog blage mediteranske klime nezaleđena slana močvara idealno je mjesto za zimovanje ptica.

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel.: +385-1-616-00-66

80 Ritam grada DOŠLE I OSTALE Razgovarali smo s četiri vrhunske balerine koje je profesionalni put iz raznih krajeva svijeta doveo u glavni hrvatski grad.

e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

City rhythm THEY CAME TO STAY We talked to four brilliant ballet dancers whose career paths took them to the capital of Croatia from different parts of the world.

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief

URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Jasmin Bajić

Ksenija Ælof

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana Ćulumović Šoštarić, Davor Janušić, Anamarija Jurinjak, Zlata Prpić

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout

Meridijani NEW YORK, GRAD ZA SVA VREMENA Bilo da je slikan noću, kada Manhattan uzbudljivo zasvijetli, ili za vedra dana, kada vrhovi nebodera svjetlucaju na suncu, New York City uvijek je čaroban.

Nenad VujoπeviÊ Direktor prodaje i marketinga/ Director of Sales and Marketing Boris Kolka

Lektor/Proofreader

Meridians NEW YORK, A CITY FOR ETERNITY Regardless of whether it’s photographed at night when Manhattan lights up electrifyingly, or during a bright day when its skyscrapers glitter in the sunlight, New York City is always magical.

Nevena Erak Camaj Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Ana Janković

Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines

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Gabrijela Lochert

Moda NACRTANA Kampanja studija Boudoir smješta romantičan dizajn u monokromatski okvir, a večernja kolekcija od svilenog organdija uveličat će posebno svečane trenutke.

tel.: +385-1-616-00-17

Fashion DRAWN Boudoir’s campaign has placed their romantic design into a monochrome frame, and their evening collection made of white silk organdie will make festive moments even more special.

Priprema/Prepress

e-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel.: +385-1-616-01-02

AKD d.o.o., Savska cesta 31 Tisak/Press AKD d.o.o., Savska cesta 31

ISSN 1330-6278

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2018

CHECKPOINT

Fotelja Leona Leona armchair Izrađena je od najboljih i najfinijih materijala, svaki interijer popunjava na poseban i profinjen način te je namijenjena kupcu koji zna što želi. Svojim elegantnim linijama pruža dojam ozbiljnoga i modernog proizvoda na čiju udobnost možete računati desetljećima. Odaberite vrstu i boju tkanine i omogućite si savršen komad namještaja. Made of the best and finest materials, and intended for customers who know exactly what they want, it decorates any interior in a special and refined way. With its elegant lines, it creates the impression of a serious and modern product whose comfort you can count on for decades. You can choose the type and colour of the fabric, making it a perfect piece of furniture. www.modul-contact.hr

Smile Ovo je tronamjenski modni dodatak − narukvica, ogrlica i držač za šal koji je dizajnirala Branka Donassy. Izrađen je od visokokvalitetne prirodne kože s utisnutim logom. This is a 3-in-1 fashion accessory − a bracelet, a necklace and a scarf holder designed by Branka Donassy. It is made of high-quality natural leather with an imprinted logo. P. Vilović

klodier.com

Lusteri Lampuli Lampuli lamps Lusteri su izrađeni ručno, starim postupcima kovanja i paljenja s mornarski vezanim jutenim konopom i odišu duhom tradicije, a jednostavna, čista forma daje im notu suvremenoga. Idealan su izbor za ugodnu mediteransku atmosferu.

D. Oršić

These handmade lamps are made by using old forgework methods in combination with jute rope tied into sailor knots. Although their simple, pure form gives them a modern look, they exude an air of tradition. They are an ideal choice for creating a pleasant Mediterranean atmosphere.

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www.ksenijajurinec.hr

Garderoba Concept Store Garderoba je konceptualni dućan specijaliziran za skandinavski modni dizajn, a nalazi se u Martićevoj ulici 17 u Zagrebu. Uz odjeću i obuću danskih i švedskih brendova GANNI, Baum und Pferdgarten, By Malene Birger, Rodebjer, Designers Remix, LibertineLibertine, Henrik Vibskov, Wood Wood i ATP Atelier, nudi velik izbor nakita i modnih dodataka. The Garderoba Concept Store in Zagreb (17 Martićeva Street) specialises in Scandinavian fashion design. It offers clothing and accessories brands from Denmark and Sweden, such as Ganni, Baum und Pferdgarten, By Malene Birger, Rodebjer, Designers Remix, Libertine-Libertine, Henrik Vibskov, Wood Wood and ATP Atelier. Garderoba has an exceptional offer of Scandinavian jewellery and accessory brands. www.facebook.com/garderobastore

Zagrebački kreativni dnevnik Zagreb Creative Diary Uz elemente dnevnika, spomenara i leksikona, Zagrebački kreativni dnevnik na zabavan način nudi sadržaje iz područja likovne umjetnosti, kulture, povijesti i suvremenosti Zagreba. U prodaji su izdanja na hrvatskom i engleskom jeziku. In addition to elements of a diary and a scrapbook, the Zagreb Creative Diary brings contents in the fields of Zagreb’s visual arts, culture, history and contemporary life in a fun way. The Zagreb Creative Diary is available in the Croatian and English language. www.zagrebcreativediary.com

One Suite Hotel Posebno iskustvo doživjet ćete u ovom dubrovačkom hotelu, službeno najboljem novootvorenom hotelu u jugoistočnoj i središnjoj Europi. Kreiran po mjeri suvremenoga načina života, savršen je spoj dizajna, umjetnosti, digitalizirane usluge, ekologije i zdravoga načina života s ekskluzivnim uslugama koje će nadmašiti vaša očekivanja. You’ll have a unique experience at this Dubrovnik hotel, officially the best newly opened hotel in Southeast and Central Europe. Designed to measure up to a contemporary lifestyle, it’s a perfect blend of design, art, digitised services, ecology and a healthy lifestyle with exclusive services that will surpass all your expectations. onesuitehotel.com

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2018

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CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2018

RAZGOVOR INTERVIEW

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Nakon uspjeha u Cannesu 2015. s filmom Zvizdan, nagrađivani zagrebački redatelj Dalibor Matanić snimio je televizijsku seriju Novine, koju je otkupio Netflix, a The Economist uvrstio među deset najboljih na svijetu. Zvizdan je u Italiji kultni film, i talijansko Ministarstvo kulture i Rai rekli su: Dođite k nama, svi, cijela ekipa, i snimajte.

Piše/By _ Mirjana Brabec

Fotografija/Photo _ Vjekoslav Skledar

iStock

After his success in Cannes with his film The High Sun (Zvizdan in Croatian) in 2015, the award-winning filmmaker from Zagreb, Dalibor Matanić, shot a television series called The Paper (Novine in Croatian), which was first bought by Netflix, and then ranked amongst the top ten TV series in the world by The Economist. The High Sun is a cult movie in Italy, and the Italian Ministry of Culture and Rai said: Come to us, all of you, the whole team, and shoot.

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2018

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01 Goran Marković u Zvizdanu, dobitniku nagrade kritike u Cannesu 2015. Goran Marković in The High Sun, winner of the Jury Prize at the 2015 Cannes Film Festival

sanja o dugom odmoru u netaknutoj prirodi, u tišini, daleko od ljudi. No istodobno, upravo ljudi i njihovi problemi pokreću ga i tjeraju na akciju. U prvom filmu, Blagajnica hoće ići na more, koji je snimio već kao student zagrebačke Akademije dramskih umjetnosti, tematizira život u oskudici samohrane majke. U drugome, Finim mrtvim djevojkama iz 2002., prvi je u domaćoj kinematografiji progovorio o netoleranciji prema gej parovima. U filmu Volim te glavni je lik mladić obolio od HIV−a, u Majci asfalta u fokusu je obiteljsko nasilje, u Ćaći, dobitniku Zlatne arene na Festivalu u Puli 2011., nerazriješeni obiteljski odnosi, dok je Egzorcizam iskorak u horor priču iz stvarnog života.

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02 Majka asfalta s Marijom Škaričić u glavnoj ulozi Mother of Asphalt with Marija Škaričić in the lead role

kojom je u braku od 2015. i koja igra u drugoj sezoni − op.a.) me naučila još većoj poniznosti. Pametne žene uvijek spašavaju bitange. Otkako smo zajedno, nekako mi je krenulo. Vjerujem da se stvari događaju u nekom sinkronicitetu. U Matanićevu slučaju sinkronicitet je teško osporiti. Najveća kreativnost i najveća priznanja − nagrada kritike na Filmskom festivalu u Cannesu za film Zvizdan, triptih koji tematizira ljubavne odnose protagonista različitih nacionalnosti tijekom tri desetljeća, te senzacionalni uspjeh televizijske serije Novine, čije je prve dvije sezone otkupio Netflix − poklopili su se s otkrivanjem velike životne ljubavi, no svjetski uspjeh o kojem sanjaju svi umjetnici nikako se ne može pripisati

a pitanje kako se osjeća nakon dva velika uspjeha i laska li to njegovoj taštini, redatelj Dalibor Matanić odgovara: − Naravno, ali odavno sam naučio obuzdavati ego. Sve što radim dijelim s ekipom, smatram da se najbolji rezultati postižu kad se radi timski, kada tim diše kao jedan, i silno se trudim postići atmosferu zajedništva već prije snimanja. Mislim da je tajna uspjeha Novina upravo u tome što smo, za razliku od visokoproduciranih serija poput, primjerice, The Deuce, u Novinama autori svi mi, cijela ekipa. Usto dodaje: − K tomu, Helena (Minić, glumica s

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samo sretnim okolnostima. Prethodile su mu godine redateljskog rada na filmu i u kazalištu, gledanje tisuća filmova, rad sa studentima dizajna, kojima je četiri godine predavao medijsku kulturu, i što je najvažnije, strastvena ljubav prema pričanju priča filmskom slikom, oči širom otvorene za sve što ga okružuje, golema životna energija i istančan senzibilitet za društvenu nepravdu i netoleranciju, uvijek s nekim pozitivnim stavom da i mi i svijet možemo biti bolji. Do danas je 44-godišnji Matanić snimio deset dugometražnih i sedam kratkometražnih filmova, potpisuje pet kazališnih režija, piše scenarije, režira reklame − ukratko, nikad ne miruje iako neprekidno

S redateljem i scenaristom Zvizdana, prvim filmom u trilogiji Sunce, koji je nakon Cannesa autoru i njegovoj ekipi donio brojne druge nagrade i nominacije na svjetskim i domaćim festivalima, razgovarali smo uoči početka snimanja novog filma, Zora, drugoga u spomenutoj trilogiji.  Novine su vaša prva televizijska serija. Kako je došlo do tog projekta koji vas je lansirao među svjetski poznata redateljska imena? − Uvijek se smijemo kad se sjetim kako sam u početku bio sumnjičav. Kad su me nakon Cannesa nazvali iz producentske kuće Drugi plan i ponudili mi da režiram Novine, najprije sam pomislio: Pa tko

− Da, a kako su nam rekli naši distributeri iz Izraela, to se vrlo rijetko događa. Tražili su jedino da budu isti autori. Tema kontrole medija danas je jako vruća jer su afere s lažnim vijestima, posebno u Americi, vrlo aktualne, a naša serija bavi se upravo tom temom − kontrolom istine.  Govorilo se da se za Novine zainteresirao i George Clooney… − Istina je, zainteresirao se jer je dobro upućen u tu tematiku s obzirom na to da njegov otac bio novinar i želio je napraviti američki remake Novina. Velik mi je kompliment što je Netflix američki remake odlučio staviti na čekanje i s našom serijom ući u borbu s velikim produkcijama. Pola godine nakon te odluke ušli smo u izbor najboljih serija, zajedno s The Deuce

sezona dramaturški još čvršća u smislu dobre koordinacije čak šest, sedam linija paralelnih priča. Đikić je u tome stvarno majstor, to se malo gdje na svijetu trenutačno može vidjeti. Imala je to Žica i to je bilo unikatno no davno, i mislim da to ljudi vani prepoznaju, posebno profesionalci. To je vrlo hrabro s obzirom na to da publika ima sve manje živaca gledati nešto zahtjevno, a od Novina ne smijete dignuti pogled jer ćete izgubiti nit priče, posebno u drugoj sezoni. Od početka smo željeli napraviti ozbiljnu seriju, zahtjevnu za gledanje. Neki Novine opisuju kao Adriatic noir, što mi je super, neki kao romantičarsku seriju zbog žala za propašću novinarstva, no ma koliko pritisci politike bili jaki, neki se ljudi se i dalje herojski bore za istinu i rade etički.

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će gledati seriju o novinama? Činilo mi se to apsolutno nemoguće, misleći na serije kao što su Newsroom i slične, koje su baš fahovske. No rekao sam da ću pročitati scenarij, na kojemu je Ivica Đikić radio već godinama jer to nije bio brzopleti projekt. Bio sam prilično skeptičan, ali javio sam im se već nakon tri dana, čim sam ga pročitao, i rekao: Idemo! Nastavili smo razvijati priču koju je Đikić kao scenarist sjajno postavio, a moja je vizija bila da se scenarij mora režijski i glumački nadograditi u nešto dosad neviđeno. Bilo mi je vrlo zabavno kad su se Novine počele prikazivati i kad se za seriju zainteresirao Netflix jer su mi ljudi govorili kako ih Novine režijski podsjećaju na skandinavske serije, što smatram velikom

pohvalom jer nisam gledao skandinavske serije. Novinama sam režijski pristupio kao kombinaciji retro i modernoga, a nadahnuli su me američki antiherojski filmovi sedamdesetih: Friedkinova Francuska veza, Pakulini Svi predsjednikovi ljudi, Coppolino Prisluškivanje i Scorseseov Taksist. Najveći kompliment dobio sam prije dva−tri mjeseca u španjolskom El Nacionalu jer nisu rekli da Novine podsjećaju na Sve predsjednikove ljude, nego da su jednako relevantne kao Svi predsjednikovi ljudi. Uočeno je, znači, upravo ono što sam htio.  Je li točno je da je Netflix drugu sezonu kupio prije nego što je snimljena?

Davida Simona i House of Cards Davida Finchera. The Economist nas je uvrstio u deset najboljih serija trenutačno na svijetu. To je najveće priznanje. U tom izboru Novine su jedina serija koja nije snimana u Americi i jedina koja nije snimana na engleskom jeziku. Jedva čekam da vide drugu sezonu.  Takva priznanja moraju laskati… − Tim je uvijek najvažniji, a u Novinama smo okupili vrhunske profesionalce. Koliki je uspjeh Novina shvatio sam tek ovog ljeta u Sarajevu, gdje smo pokazali prve dvije epizode, i mnogo ljudi mi je reklo kako bi željelo napraviti sličan projekt. Posebno me veseli što su sve pozitivne reakcije utemeljene na prvoj sezoni, a mislimo da je druga

 Kad kreće emitiranje Novina na Netflixu? Domaća publika upravo uživa u drugoj sezoni. − Na Netflixu serija kreće u siječnju, ima jako puno posla oko prevođenja i adaptacije, to se već vidjelo s prvom sezonom. To je velik posao za koji im treba mnogo vremena pa godinu dana nismo smjeli o tome govoriti.  Vratimo se filmu. Kako to da Zoru, nastavak Zvizdana, snimate u Italiji? − Zvizdan je u Italiji kultni film, i talijansko Ministarstvo kulture i Rai rekli su: Dođite k nama, svi, cijela ekipa, i snimajte. Ostavili su mi punu slobodu. Tihana (Lazović, glavna glumica Zvizdana) ponovno ima glavnu ulogu, cijela je glumačka i tehnička ekipa ista.

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01 Za ulogu u Zvizdanu Tihana Lazović ovjenčana je titulom European Shooting Star na Berlinaleu 2016. For her role in The High Sun, Tihana Lazović received the European Shooting Star Award at the 2016 Berlin International Film Festival

parovima, snimili ste 2002., kad o tome gotovo nitko nije govorio. − Da, mnogi mi kažu da su Fine mrtve djevojke, s temom netolerancije, bile pionirski pothvat. No ja uvijek odabirem teme prema pričama iz života, iz novinarskih članaka i iz okoline. Netrpeljivost prema drugačijima oduvijek me pogađala. Mislim da je jako bitno na to upućivati, pogotovo što se mržnja i netolerancija posljednjih godina osjećaju u cijeloj Europi. To čini Zvizdan, a i novi film Zora.  Često sami pišete scenarije − Zvizdan, Zora… Volite biti one−man band? − Ne bih rekao, surađivao sam s piscima Matom Matišićem, Tomislavom Zajecom, Robertom Perišićem, sad s Đikićem. Mislim da je riječ o strasti, ne mogu čekati,

∂ Kinorama

02 Kadar iz druge sezone TV serije Novine A scene from the second season of the TV series The Paper

su jako dobro reagirali i bio je nevjerojatno dobro primljen. Ne znam kako to zapravo objasniti, no jako im se svidio. U videotekama − tamo još one dobro funkcioniraju, uvjerio sam se svojim očima − nudi se jedan CD velikog američkog hita, a tri− četiri Zvizdana. Tihana je nakon Zvizdana dobila glavnu ulogu u filmu Sembra mio figlio poznate talijanske autorice Costanze Quatriglio, koji je ove godine prikazan u Cannesu, a uloge u talijanskim filmovima dobili su i Goran Marković i Nives Ivanković, ukupno troje glumaca iz Zvizdana. I to je baš lijepo.  Hoće li to onda biti najugodnije i najležernije vaše snimanje dosad? − Ne bih rekao s obzirom na to da sam odabrao najtežu moguću lokaciju. Nisam

 Kako tumačite toliku popularnost Zvizdana u Italiji? − Osjetio sam to prvi put kad smo imali premijeru u Ferrari na festivalu Internazionale, koji nije samo filmski festival nego i festival medija. Imali smo sjajne distributere, Tucker Films, koji su preko Zvizdana postali bitni igrači u Italiji, gdje je sustav rada jako zanimljiv. Oni za premijeru nisu odabrali neku glamuroznu prigodu nego Ferraru, gdje su došli novinari iz cijelog svijeta koje se bore za prava medija i u fokusu su im filmovi s temom tolerancije. Iznenadio sam se kad sam vidio da je trg prepun ljudi koji čekaju kako bi kupili karte za naš film. Film je išao u distribuciju po svim talijanskim gradovima i selima, ljudi

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siguran imam li dovoljno fizičke kondicije za penjanje po brdima, gdje ćemo biti u izolaciji jer obožavam divljinu. Filmove više ne želim snimati u gradovima, samo u divljini. Lars von Trier je rekao da je priroda naš neprijatelj, no ja se ne bih složio s velikim filmskim magom jer mislim da je istina u prirodi.  Što je tema Zore? − Najjednostavnije rečeno, ponovno je riječ o tome kako ljubav opstaje u okuženju mržnje. Naravno da nakon Zvizdana nisam išao mirnijim putem, bit će to dosta eksperimentalan film.  Uvijek ste bili malo ispred u svojoj kritici društva. Fine mrtve djevojke, čija je tema netolerancija prema gej

no nemam ništa protiv suradnji. Nedavno sam imao jako dobro iskustvo u kazalištu s Ivorom Martinićem koji je za Slovensko narodno gledališče u Mariboru adaptirao Viscontijev film Sumrak bogova. Prvi put smo radili zajedno, no razumjeli smo se kao da je za nama deset godina zajedničkih projekata. Super je imati uz sebe ljude koji se bave scenaristikom. I kad radim sam, ima jako mnogo skript doktora kojima dajem tekst na čitanje, koji korigiraju, mijenjaju. Nije to prepušteno slučaju. Zvizdan i Zora su vrlo osobne teme, osobni kod za koji sam instinktivno osjetio da ga trebam sam napisati, no uvijek sam za to da se uključi dobar scenarist ili dramaturg. S Ivorom se već dogovaram za novi kazališni projekt.

tike i matematičkih kodova. Vjerujem u matematičke kodove u glazbi, ali i u filmu  i u kazalištu, i zato je to zahtjevno.

hen asked how he feels after his two great successes and whether he’s flattered by them, Dalibor Matanić replies: − Of course I’m flattered, but I have long learned to restrain my ego. I share all I do with my team, I think that the best results are achieved when they’re achieved through teamwork, when the team breathes as one, and I always strive to create an atmosphere of togetherness even before filming. I think that the secret of the success of The Paper (Novine in Croatian) lies in the fact that, unlike big-

High Sun (Zvizdan in Croatian), a triptych that talks about the love relationships of protagonists of different nationalities during the course of three decades, and the sensational success of the TV series The Paper, whose first two seasons were bought by Netflix − have coincided with him having found the love of his life, but his international acclaim that all artists dream of can’t be attributed to a set of fortunate circumstances alone. It was preceded by years of work as a film and theatre director, watching thousands of films, working with design students whom he taught media culture for four years and, most importantly, his passionate love for story-telling through motion pictures, his eyes wide open to everything that sur-

∂ Drugi plan

 Uz koje ste filmove odrasli? Kad ste shvatili da je film vaš životni izbor? − Film sam otkrio s jedanaest ili trinaest godina, ne sjećam točno. Prije toga htio sam biti novinar. Bio sam tada u osnovnoj školi, živio sam u Velikoj Gorici, gdje je bilo malo kino Galženica, i često sam bio sam u kinu. Samo u kinu osjećao sam se sretnim. Gledao sam i upijao sve, a nije bilo baš nekog izbora. I danas gledam i genijalne filmove i najveće holivudske gluposti jer mislim da i iz najlošijih stvari uvijek možeš nešto naučiti. Ne treba se orijentirati na jednu oazu. Nažalost, u posljednje vrijeme nemam vremena ni za jedne ni za druge.  Glazba uvijek ima važnu ulogu u vašim filmovima…

− Da, apsolutno. Kad smo radili film Ćaća, sedam dana tražili smo jedan ton. To dovoljno govori o tome koliko sam opsjednut značenjem glazbe u filmu. Meni sve, i film i kazalište, počinje kroz glazbu. Od prvog filma surađujem s Jurom Ferinom i Pavlom Miholjevićem iz Svadbasa, koji rade glazbu i za Novine, a u posljednje vrijeme i s braćom Sinkauz, koji su autori glazbe za Zvizdan i Zoru. Ta vrsta glazbe sve je samo ne jednostavna, sve samo ne filmska podloga. To i ljudi vani primjećuju, mislim da je to neka vrsta novog jazz sessiona za dramsku formu. Volim neoklasiku, ljude poput Grka Iannisa Xenakisa, koji je bio arhitekt i glazbu je počeo stvarati preko matema-

budget productions such as The Deuce for instance, The Paper is authored by all of us, the whole team. He continues: − I might add that Helena (Minić, the actress that he’s been married to since 2015 and who plays a part in the second season of The Paper) has taught me to be even more humble. Rascals are always saved by smart women. Ever since we got together, things have started to change for the better for me. I believe things happen in a synchronicity of sorts. In Matanić’s case, synchronicity is difficult to deny. His greatest creativity and greatest awards − the Jury Prize at the Cannes Film Festival for his film The

rounds him, his tremendous life energy, and a refined sense of social justice and tolerance, always having a positive attitude that both the world and we can indeed be better. To date, the 44-year-old director has shot ten feature and seven short films, has directed five theatre plays, has been writing screenplays, has directed TV commercials − in short, he never rests, even though he’s constantly dreaming of taking a long vacation in untouched nature, in peace and quiet, and away from people. Yet, at the same time, what drives him and compels him to act are people and their problems. In his first movie, Blagajnica hoće ići na more (The Cashier Wants to

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Film Ćaća, s Juditom Franković i Ivom Mihalić The film Daddy with Judita Franković and Iva Mihalić

− We always laugh when I remember just how suspicious I was at the beginning. When they rang me from the Drugi Plan production company after I returned from Cannes and offered me to direct The Paper, I first thought: Who would ever want to watch a TV series about a newspaper? The series I had in mind was The Newsroom and the like, which are all filmed true to the trade, and so it seemed absolutely impossible. But I said that I’d read the screenplay which Ivica Đikić had been working on for years because this wasn’t a project done in haste. I was pretty sceptical, but I contacted them three days later as soon as I had read it, and said: Let’s do it! We continued to develop the story that Đikić as a screenwriter had set

Two or three months ago, I received the biggest compliment ever from the Spanish El Nacional because what they said is not that The Paper reminded them of All the President’s Men, but that The Paper was just as relevant as All the President’s Men. What they noticed was exactly what I had wanted to convey.  Is it true that Netflix bought the second season even before it was filmed? − Yes, and as our distributors from Israel told us, this happens very rarely. Their only condition was that it be shot by the same authors. Media control today is a very hot topic because fake news affairs, especially in the US, are very topical, and our series deals with this very issue − controlling the truth.

the Grand Golden Arena award for best film at the 2011 Pula Festival, deals with unresolved family relationships, while his Exorcism (Egzorcizam) tells a horror story. We talked to the director and screenwriter of The High Sun, the first film in the Sunce (Sun) trilogy − which has, after having achieved success at the Cannes Film Festival, received great many accolades and nominations at both national and international festivals − before the beginning of the shooting of his latest production Zora (Dawn), the second film in the said trilogy.  The Paper is your first television series. How did this project that catapulted you into stardom and made you a world famous director come about?

up brilliantly, and my vision was that the screenplay had to be made into something never seen before in terms of directing and acting. It was a lot of fun when The Paper started being screened and when Netflix showed interest in it because people told me that, in terms of my directing, it reminded them of Scandinavian TV series, which I found to be a compliment because I never watched Scandinavian series. My directing approach to The Paper was a combination of something retro and something modern, and I drew my inspiration from US anti-hero films of the seventies: Friedkin’s The French Connection, Pakula’s All the President’s Men, Coppola’s The Conversation and Scorsese’s Taxi Driver.

 Rumour has it that even George Clooney was interested in The Paper... − Yes, it’s true. He was interested because he’s well informed about the topic given that his father was a journalist, and so he wanted to produce the American remake of The Paper. The fact that Netflix decided to put the American remake on hold and to enter the battle with our series against big productions was a huge compliment. Half a year after this decision was made, we entered the selection for best TV series, together with David Simon’s The Deuce and David Fincher’s House of Cards. The Economist has included The Paper in the top ten TV series in the world. This really is the greatest acknowledgment we’ve

∂ Kinorama

Go to the Seaside), which he shot as a student of the Academy of Dramatic Art of the University of Zagreb, he tackles the topic of a single mother’s destitute life. In his second movie, Fine Dead Girls (Fine mrtve djevojke) from 2002, he was the first in Croatian cinematography to talk about society’s intolerance towards gay couples. The main character of his movie I Love You (Volim te) is a young man who’s contracted HIV, his Majka Asfalta (Mother of Asphalt) tackles the issue of domestic violence, his movie Ćaća (Daddy), the winner of

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received. On their list, The Paper is the only series that hasn’t been filmed in the US and the only one that’s not in English. I can’t wait for them to watch the second season.  Such acknowledgments must be flattering... − The most important thing is always the team, and for the filming of The Paper we’ve gathered top professionals. I realised just how successful The Paper is this summer in Sarajevo, where we screened the first two episodes, and many people told me that they’d very much like to do a

 Let’s return to movies. How come that you’re about to shoot Dawn (Zora), the sequel to The High Sun, in Italy? − The High Sun is a cult movie in Italy, and the Italian Ministry of Culture and Rai said: Come to us, all of you, the whole team, and shoot. They gave me complete freedom. Tihana (Lazović, the lead actress of The High Sun) will again play the lead role, and the whole acting and technical team are the same.  How do you explain the fact that The High Sun is so popular in Italy? − The first time I felt this was at the premiere screening at the Ferrara Film Festival, which is a film and a media festival in one. We had great distributors, Tucker Films, who became, through their distribution of

∂ Drugi plan

Tihana Lazović u TV seriji Novine Tihana Lazović in the TV series The Paper

Wire had this, and it was unique but long time ago, and I think that people recognise this, particularly professionals. This is very bold considering that audiences are less and less inclined to watch something that’s demanding, and you can’t miss a second of The Paper because you’ll lose the storyline, especially in the second season. What we wanted to film from the very beginning was a serious series, demanding for watching. Some describe The Paper as Adriatic noir, which I think is great, some as a romantic series because it portrays nostalgia for the good old days of journalism, but regardless of how much pressure politics has been exerting on journalism, some people still fight for the truth heroically and work with a moral compass in view.

Sve što radim dijelim s ekipom, smatram da se najbolji rezultati postižu kad se radi timski, kada tim diše kao jedan. I share all I do with my team, I think that the best results are achieved when they’re achieved through teamwork, when the team breathes as one. similar project. I’m particularly pleased that all this positive feedback is based on the first season, and we think that the second season is even stronger dramaturgically speaking, in the sense that we’ve achieved good coordination between as many as six or seven parallel storylines. Đikić is well versed in this, and there aren’t many such productions in the world at present. The

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 When does the screening of The Paper start on Netflix? Croatian audiences have already been enjoying the second season. − The series is set to be screened on Netflix in January, there’s a lot of translation and adaptation work to be done, the first season is proof of this. This is a huge job that takes a lot of time, and so we couldn’t talk about it for a year.

The High Sun, important players in Italy, where the system of work is very interesting. They didn’t choose some glamorous occasion for our premiere screening, but rather decided that it was going to be Ferrara, with journalists there from all over the world who were fighting for media rights and who focused on films focusing on the topic of tolerance. I was very surprised when I saw the square crowding with people waiting to buy tickets for our movie. The film was distributed to all Italian cities and villages, people’s reactions to it were very positive and it was incredibly well received. I don’t quite know how to explain it, but they really liked it. Video rental stores

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the wilderness. I no longer want to shoot films in cities, only in the wild. Lars von Trier said that nature is our enemy, but I strongly disagree with the great cinematographer because I think that it’s in nature that truth is to be found.  What does your Dawn deal with? − Simply put, it’s again about how love survives in an environment of hatred. Of course, after The High Sun, I couldn’t take a milder approach, and so it’ll be a rather experimental movie.  You’ve always been a step ahead in your critiquing society. You shot your film Fine Dead Girls, which tackles society’s intolerance towards gay couples, back in 2002, when hardly anyone talked about the issue.

Dalibor Matanić na snimanju novog filma u Italiji Dalibor Matanić on the set of his latest film in Italy

− Yes, many people have said that Fine Dead Girls, tackling the theme of intolerance, was a pioneering venture. But what I always choose to be the topics of my films are real-life stories, stories from newspaper articles and from my surroundings. Intolerance towards those that are different has always affected me badly. I think it’s very important to continually point to this, particularly because hatred and intolerance have in recent years been strongly felt throughout Europe. This is what The High Sun does, as well as the new movie Dawn.  You often write screenplays by yourself − The High Sun, Dawn... Do you like being a one-man band? − I wouldn’t say so. I’ve collaborated with writers Mate Matišić, Tomislav Zajec, Robert Perišić, and now with Đikić. I think it’s a passion of mine, I can’t wait, but I have nothing against collaborations. I’ve recently had a very good experience at the theatre

B. Knez

− Italy still has them, I’ve seen them with my own eyes − have only one copy of a US blockbuster, and three or four copies of The High Sun. Following her role in The High Sun, Tihana was given a role in Sembra Mio Figlio (Just Like My Son) by the well-known Italian director Costanza Quatriglio, a movie that was screened in Cannes this year, and both Goran Marković and Nives Ivanković were also given roles in Italian productions. In sum, a total of three actors from The High Sun, which is very nice.  Will this be your most pleasurable and most laidback filming so far? − I wouldn’t say so because I’ve chosen the most difficult location possible. I’m not sure if I’m physically fit enough to climb hills, where we’ll be in isolation because I adore

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with Ivor Martinić who adapted Visconti’s film The Damned for the Slovene National Theatre in Maribor. This was our first joint project, but we understood each other as though we’ve been collaborating for ten years. It’s great to have screenwriters around you. And when I work alone, there are many screenplay doctors who I give my texts to for reading, who correct and change them. I don’t leave texts to chance. The High Sun and Dawn are very personal topics, a personal code that I instinctively felt that I should write by myself, but I always like having a good scriptwriter or dramaturge be involved. I’ve already been discussing a new theatre project with Ivor.  Which movies did you grow up on? When did you realise that cinematography is your calling in life? − I discovered films when I was eleven or thirteen, I don’t remember when exactly. Before that, I wanted to be a journalist. This was in elementary school. I lived in Velika Gorica, and there was a small cinema called Galženica, which I was often alone at. It was only at the cinema that I felt happy. I watched and absorbed everything, and there wasn’t much of a choice. Even today, I still watch brilliant movies and the biggest Hollywood nonsense because I think that you can always learn something even from the worst things. You should never orient yourself towards one oasis alone. Unfortunately, I haven’t had time for either lately.  Music always plays an important role in your movies... − Yes, absolutely. When we filmed the movie Daddy, we’d been looking for a single tone for seven days. That speaks volumes about how obsessed I am with the meaning of music in movies. Everything, both film and theatre, begins with music for me. Ever since my first film, I’ve been collaborating with Jura Ferina and Pavao Miholjević from the band Svadbas, who’ve also been composing music for The Paper, and recently with the Sinkauz brothers, who’ve composed music for The High Sun and Dawn. That kind of music is anything but simple, it’s anything but a musical backdrop. People have noticed this, and I think that this is some sort of new jazz session for the drama format. I love the neo-classics, people like the Greek Iannis Xenakis, who was an architect and started creating music through mathematics and mathematical codes. I believe in mathematical codes in music, but also in film and theatre, which is why it’s so demanding. 

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kvarner region tourist board 51410 opatija, nikole tesle 2, t +385 (0)51 272 988, f +385 (0)51 272 909, e kvarner@kvarner.hr “kvarner info - adriatic gate”, t +385 (0)51 623 333, 628 888, F +385 (0)51 623 334, e info@kvarner.hr www.kvarner.hr

Visit KVARNER Croatia’s best kept secret

Diversity is beautiful

01 Zapadno barokno pročelje dvorca Miljana The west baroque facade of Miljana Castle 02 Djevojka s vrčem, skulptura Vanje Radauša Girl with a Jug, a sculpture by Vanja Radauš

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BAŠTINA HERITAGE

Piše/By _ Dubravka Belas 01

Fotografije/Photos _ Damir Fabijanić

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01 Ružičasti salon The pink salon 02 Sunčani sat iz 18. stoljeća A sundial from the 18th century

Hrvatsko zagorje, neveliko područje na sjeverozapadu Hrvatske, obiluje dvorcima i kurijama. Na razmjerno malom prostoru, raštrkano po brežuljcima i udolinama, od nekadašnjih dvjestotinjak danas je preostalo pedesetak dvoraca i još toliko kurija, nešto skromnijih domova nižega i seoskoga plemstva. Miljana je sretni dvorac jer svoj opstanak zahvaljuje tomu što su uvijek u njemu živjeli oni koji su ga nastojali očuvati. CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2018

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01 Ostakljeni arkadni hodnici iza dvorišnih pročelja The glazed arcade corridors behind the garth facades 02 Skulptura psa Branislava Deškovića A sculpture of a dog by Branislav Dešković

Croatian Zagorje, not too large a region in the northwest of Croatia, abounds in castles and courts. In a relatively small space, scattered on hills and in valleys, there were once some two hundred castles and courts, of which only some fifty castles and just as many courts − more modest houses of lower nobility and squires − have remained preserved to date. Miljana is a fortunate castle, because it owes its continuance to the fact that it has always been the residence of those who’ve aspired to preserve it. CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2018

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01 Kugle Dušana Džamonje od željeznoga pletiva koje podsjeća na pancirne košulje srednjevjekovnih vitezova kao da brane glavni ulaz u dvorac Dušan Džamonja’s chainmail spheres reminiscent of medieval knights’ chainmail hauberks as if defending the main entrance to the castle 02 Jedan od nekad četiri postojeća sunčana sata One of the castle’s once existing four sundials

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03 Zidni oslik u tehnici fresco s tapetnim uzorkom A fresco mural with a wallpaper pattern 04 Kapelica sv. Marije Lauretanske iz 1700. godine, oslikana sredinom 18. st., nastala je zatvaranjem dijela trijema The Chapel of Our Lady of Loreto from 1700, painted in the mid-18th century, was formed by walling up a part of the porch

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01 Jednostavno južno pročelje ritmizirano prozorskim okvirima The castle’s simple south facade rhythmised with window frames 02 Pogled na dvorac iz obližnje sjenice A view of the castle from a nearby arbour

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a većinu običnih smrtnika dvorci su tek zaboravljena djetinja maštarija, čarobna mjesta na usamljenim, nepristupačnim stijenama, bajkovito zarasla u stoljetno trnje, s usnulim djevama, dobrim i zlim vilama čije čarolije određuju ljudske sudbine, s vodenim opkopima, tornjićima u kojima su sakrivena tajna pisma i davno izgubljena blaga. Dvorci se ozbiljnije mogu definirati kao ladanjska prebivališta bogatije gradnje u

kojima je feudalno plemstvo povremeno boravilo zbog nadzora imanja, prikupljanja prihoda i odmora od gradskoga života (da, da, čak i tada, prije više stoljeća). Uz dvorac vezane su i gospodarske zgrade, vrtovi i perivoji. Bitni preduvjeti za pojavu dvoraca, navodi se u definiciji, povoljne su društveno-ekonomske i političke prilike te sigurnost posjeda. Čini se da je Hrvatsko zagorje, neveliko područje na sjeverozapadu Hrvatske, od 16. do 19. stoljeća obilovalo takvim prilikama. Na razmjerno malom prostoru, raštrkano po brežuljcima i udolinama, od nekadašnjih dvjestotinjak danas je preostalo pedesetak dvoraca i još toliko kurija, nešto skromnijih domova nižega i seoskoga plemstva. Nisu to silne i bajkovite građevine poput dvorca bavarskoga Labuđega kralja, velikog sanjara, nego mnogo skromnija zdanja, upravo razmjerno tomu koliko je hrvatsko plemstvo, uvijek pod nekim drugim gospodarom, bilo skromnije od plemstva bogatih europskih carstava. Hrvatski književnik Ksaver Šandor Gjalski, i sam plemić, odan ovim zagorskim starodrevnim domovima, zapisat će na samom kraju 19. stoljeća: Ove su se naše stare sirotice nekoć mogle ljepše opremiti i više na gospodsku iskititi da nam nije valjalo vjekove i vjekove braniti hrvatsku domovinu, koja je iskala od ljudi i novaca i ruku i život, pa tako nije preostalo ništa čim bismo uredili gospodske svoje dvorove uistinu na gospodsku. Pa ipak, ti su smjerniji i trezveniji hrvatski dvorci bili jednako dostojanstveni i solidno građeni, jednako raskošno namješteni pozlaćenim ogledalima, kristalnim vitrina-

ma, intarziranim sekreterima da je prava šteta što su, kad su jednom prestali biti žarišta života i rada, bivali sve zapušteniji, ruševniji i polako nestajali. No posljednjih se desetljeća određen broj tih spomenika kulture nulte i prve kategorije sve češće obnavlja privatnim kapitalom. Među prvim obnovljenim dvorcima bila je upravo Miljana, šezdesetak kilometara udaljena od Zagreba, koju je dr. Franjo Kajfež, vrsni kemičar i vlasnik patenta pojednostavljenog postupka sinteze diazepama, osamdesetih uredio prema svim pravilima očuvanja kulturno-povijesne baštine. Novi ju je vlasnik, uspješni zagorski građevinski poduzetnik Dragutin Kamenski, u ovome desetljeću temeljito obnovio, osuvremenio i prilagodio u luksuzan i višefunkcionalan prostor. S obzirom na njegovu sadašnju privatnu, obiteljsku stambenu funkciju, dvorac nije otvoren za javnost pa ćemo vam njegovu ljepotu pokušati dočarati riječju i slikom. Miljana, taj sretni dvorac, svoj opstanak i očuvanost može zahvaliti i činjenici da je oduvijek, s tek malim prekidima bio nastanjen ne samo plemićima nego, eto, i poduzetničkim obiteljima pa se u njemu jedno vrijeme u 19. stoljeću proizvodio nadaleko traženi sir, na zadovoljstvo okolnih seljaka koji su siranu snabdijevali svježim mlijekom. Ovaj je barokni dragulj smješten na uzvisini u neposrednoj blizini sjenovite rijeke Sutle i nedaleko od Velikog Tabora, srednjovjekovnog utvrđenoga grada grofova Ratkaja, graditelja i prvih vlasnika Miljane. Plemićka obitelj Ratkaj Hrvatskoj je dala mnoge velikodostojnike, vojskovođe, biskupe, misionare, putopisce, graditelje, diplomate, povjesničare, odigravši važnu ulogu u politici, obrani i kulturi zemlje. Nekoliko je naraštaja Ratkaja ostavilo pečat na izgledu dvorca, koji se počeo graditi krajem 16. stoljeća, da bi kroz više građevinskih i stilskih faza, najprije renesansnih a potom baroknih, konačne obrise dobio tri stoljeća kasnije. Dvorac je zamišljen u zatvorenome tipu gradnje s unutrašnjim dvorištem, na blagoj padini koja se izvan zidova dvorca nastavlja cijelom zemljišnom parcelom do jezerca na samome južnome rubu, stapajući se skladno svojim perivojem s okolnim krajolikom. Na početku gradnje izvedeno je samo sjeverno krilo ukotvljeno u padinu, jedno-

Među prvim obnovljenim dvorcima bila je upravo Miljana, šezdesetak kilometara udaljena od Zagreba. One of the first castles to have been renovated was Miljana Castle, some sixty kilometres away from Zagreb. stavna kurija koja je u sljedećem stoljeću dograđena zapadnim bočnim krilom. Potom je ogradnim zidom od lomljena kamena na istoku oblikovano pravokutno dvorište, a dograđene su i sanitarne prostorije u vertikalnim istakama pročelja kao jedini poznati zagorski primjeri sanitarija prije 19. stoljeća. Izgradnjom jednostavnog južnog pročelja Miljana dobiva konačni prepoznatljiv izgled. Dugačko prizemno krilo s deset prozorskih otvora istaknutih bojom i velikim portalom otvara pogled na više, unutarnje arkade sjevernoga krila i razigrano krovište začelja. Na zaravni pred ulaznim portalom poput divovskih se topovskih kugli, kao svojevrsna najava obrambene moći, ističu tri Džamonjine kugle od željeznoga pletiva, neprobojnoga tkanja koje podsjeća na pancirne košulje srednjovjekovnih vitezova.

Ritmičnost i simetriju južnoga pročelja narušava samo stara glicinija koja se proteže čitavom dužinom zida. Radauševa Djevojka s vrčem i stari bunar dvije su točke u atriju razdvojene bjelinom plitkih elegantnih stuba i monolitnom površinom vješto šišanoga šimšira. Iznad portala se iz krovišta uzdiže toranj sa satom čiji je nekadašnji impozantni čelični mehanizam s teškim kamenim bundevastim utezima izložen u ostakljenome zapadnom trijemu. Osobitu prepoznatljivost i posebnost Miljani daju obojena pročelja, koja su se tijekom stoljeća također višekratno mijenjala da bi u obnovi osamdesetih godina 20. stoljeća bila oslikana crnoplavo, s bijelim medaljonima različitih oblika i veličina, kakva su i bila u prvoj polovici 18. stoljeća. Tako je oslikan i Miljanin dimnjak, jedan od najljepših dimnjaka hrvatskih povijesnih zdanja. Na

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unutarnjim pročeljima rekonstruirana su i dva sunčana sata, a jedna je prizemna arkada zazidana i pretvorena u minijaturnu kapelu. Za posljednjega Ratkaja, u 18. stoljeću, dvorac se oprema skupocjenim namještajem, raskošnim oslikanim kaljevim pećima, a saloni se oslikavaju zidnim i stropnim freskama, koje su ocijenjene kao najvrjedniji oslici iz razdoblja rokokoa u Hrvatskoj. Osam salona u dva krila dvorca prolazni su i povezani, a svaki ima izlaz na zajednički trijem s ostakljenim arkadama koji služi kao izložbeni prostor za radove najvećih hrvatskih slikarskih i kiparskih imena. Svaki od salona ima svoje karakteristične oslike − tako je istočni reprezentativni salon urešen iluzijom mramornih stupova u čijem su podnožju nasmiješeni, zaobljeni putti, svjetovna varijanta kerubina. Tri su salona oslikana rokajem, karakterističnim školjkastim rokoko motivom, girlandama s motivima voća i cvijeća. U drugom su salonu u scenama iz svakodnevnoga života prikazani prizori rada i zabave − kovanje, ribolov, poljski radovi, kartanje, sviranje, slikanje, lađarenje, svejednako

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s puttima u glavnoj ulozi. Tu su i prikazi triju dvoraca Ratkajevih − Miljane kakva je nekad bila, s gospodarskim zgradama i povrtnjacima uz dvorac, Velikoga Tabora i, pretpostavlja se, Maloga Tabora. Najvrjednije zidne slike nalaze se u južnome salonu, nazvanome kabinet Miljana. Riječ je o bogatim alegorijskim prizorima izvedenima u prozorskim nišama, koji se pripisuju Antunu Jožefu Lechingeru, te tzv. gobelinskim pejzažima s krhkim i

eteričnim likovima i pastoralnim scenama nad prozorima, posve na tragu Watteaua i Bouchera, čije se autorstvo pridaje Franzu Ignazu Flureru. Alegorijske scene odraz su onodobnog udaljavanja društva od strogih vjerskih dogmi ka prirodnim zakonima, svjetovnoj umjetnosti, filozofiji, razmišljanjima o smislu života, njegovim ciklusima i godišnjim dobima. Tako će se ovdje pronaći figuralni prikazi četiri godišnja i životna doba s astrološkim znakovima koji ih prate, četiri elementa, četiri temperamenta, pet ljudskih osjetila. Razabiremo scene proljeća i djetinjstva kojima vlada znak Bika, prikaz ljeta i mladosti okupljene oko svirača roga, nakon kojega slijedi zrelost i iskustvo jesenske alegorije, a zima je dočarana ogoljenim granama i prikazom starca kao znaka mudrosti. Vatra, voda, zrak i zemlja, melankolija, flegma, sangvinička i kolerička plahost, vid, sluh, okus, osjet topline i hladnoće, hrabrost; rađanje i umiranje, bujanje prirode i njezino starenje, sve se to izmjenjuje u imaginarnom karuselu koji nas podsjeća da sve ima svoj kraj. Ma koliko slike predstavljale prpošne prizore lagodnoga ladanjskoga života vlastele, ipak su sve prožete svijesti o prolaznosti života, kao prethodnica i najava nadolazećeg romantičarskog Weltschmerza. Teško je reći u koje je doba godine Miljana najzavodljivija − u proljeće kad je okružuje mlado zelenilo, a nad njezinim se kamenim portalom, duž pročelja u mirisnim grozdovima ruše nježni ljubičasti slapovi glicinije? U zrelo, ugodno ljeto ili u raskošnu, zlatnu jesen?

01 Moderna skulptura ljudskog lika A modern sculpture of the human figure 02 Pogled na unutarnje dvoriĹĄte iz glavnog ulaza A view of the inner court from the main entrance to the castle

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Ili zimi, kad je sve utišano, pritisnuto opalnim sjajem zimskoga sunca i prigušeno djevičanskom bjelinom snijega koji prekriva sve, baš sve, osim tragova  ljupkih, nepovjerljivih srna.

or most common mortals, castles are but a long forgotten childhood fantasy, magical places on forlorn, inaccessible rocks, overgrown with centuries-old thorns the way fairy tales describe, with sleeping beauties, good and wicked fairies whose spells determine human destinies, with moats and turrets, in which secret letters and long lost treasures are hidden. On a more serious note, castles can be defined as country residences, whose construction is more elaborate, and which feudal nobility occasionally resided in so as to oversee the running of their estate, collect revenues, and to take a rest from urban life (yes, yes, even then, several centuries ago). Castles are surrounded by farm buildings, gardens and parks. The definition further states that, for a castle to be built, certain conditions had to be fulfilled, and these were favourable social, economic and political conditions, and safety.

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It seems that Croatian Zagorje, not too large a region in the northwest of Croatia, abounded in such conditions between the 16th and the 19th centuries. In a relatively small space, scattered on hills and in valleys, there were once some two hundred castles and courts, of which only some fifty castles and just as many courts − more modest houses of lower nobility and squires − have remained preserved to date. These are not huge and fairy-tale like buildings, such as Swan King’s Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria. Rather, their modesty corresponded indeed to the level of modesty of the Croatian nobility compared to the nobility of rich European empires. The Croatian writer Ksaver Šandor Gjalski, a nobleman himself, devoted to these old residences of Zagorje, wrote the following at the end of the 19th century: These poor old homes of ours could have once been adorned more beautifully and bedecked in a more gentry appropriate style had we not been pressed, for centuries on end, to defend our Croatian homeland, which required the sacrifice of funds, labour and life, so there was nothing left to render our gentry’s courts in a style which would indeed be gentry appropriate. Nevertheless, these humble and far less flashy Croatian castles were just as dignified and well-built, and just as luxuriously furnished with gilded mirrors, crystal china closets and marquetry writing desks, and it’s a real pity that, once they ceased to be the focal point of life and work, they were left to go to rack and ruin, to decay and slowly disappear. However, during the past few decades, a number of these zero- and first-category monuments of culture have been restored by private capital. One of the first castles to have been renovated was Miljana Castle, some sixty kilometres away from Zagreb, which Dr. Franjo Kajfež, a brilliant chemist and the owner of the patent for the simple synthesis of diazepam, adapted during the 1980s adhering strictly to all the rules regulating cultural and historical heritage preservation. The castle’s new owner, a successful Zagorje-based construction entrepreneur, Dragutin Kamenski, restored and modernised it completely in this decade, having turned it into a luxurious and multifunctional space. Given that it’s privately owned and is a family residence, the castle isn’t open to the public, and we’ll

try to portray its beauty through words and pictures. Miljana, this fortunate castle, owes its continuance and level of preservation to the fact that it has always − with only a few short discontinuances − been the residence of not only noblemen, but also families of entrepreneurs. So, for example, in the 19th century, a much sought-after cheese was produced in it, and this to the satisfaction and benefit of the peasants living in the surrounding areas of the castle who supplied the castle’s dairy with fresh milk. This baroque jewel is located on a hill near the shadowy Sutla River and not far from Veliki Tabor, a medieval fortified town of the Ratkay Counts, the builders and first owners of Miljana Castle. The noble Ratkay family is a family of many Croatian dignitaries, army generals, bishops, missionaries,

travel writers, builders, diplomats and historians, all of whom played an important role in Croatia’s politics, defence and culture. Several generations of the Ratkay family left a stamp on the appearance of the castle, which started to be built in the late 16th century. It then went through several building and stylistic stages − first renaissance and later baroque − and was given its final appearance three centuries later. The castle was designed as an enclosed castle with an inner bailey, on a gentle slope that extends beyond the walls of the castle along the entire estate to the pond in the very south, whose park blends in harmoniously with the surrounding landscape. At the beginning of construction, only the north wing was built, and this anchored into the slope, a simple court whose west wing was built a century later. Then, a rectangular courtyard was formed in the east by a fence wall erected from broken stone slabs, and sanitary facilities were built into the vertical projections of the castle’s facade. These are the only documented pre-19th century examples of sanitary facilities in Zagorje. Miljana Castle was given its final, recognisable look once the castle’s simple south facade was built. The long, groundfloor wing with ten window openings highlighted in colour and a large portal opens up to the elevated inner arcades of the northern wing and its elaborate roof. On a plateau outside the entrance portal, three of Džamonja’s chainmail spheres − weaved impenetrably reminiscent of medieval knights’ chainmail hauberks − stand out like giant cannon balls, an indication of sorts of the castle’s defensive power.

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The rhythm and symmetry of the south facade is disturbed, so to speak, only by an old wisteria plant that extends across the entire length of the wall. Radauš’s sculpture Girl with a Jug and an old well are two points in the atrium separated by the whiteness of an elegant low staircase and the monolithic surface of a cleverly trimmed boxwood shrub. Above the portal, a clock tower rises from the roof, whose former imposing steel mechanism with heavy stone weights is showcased in the glazed west porch. What makes Miljana Castle particularly recognisable and distinctive are its coloured facades, which have been changed several times over the centuries. The facades were given their present look during restoration in the 1980s, when they were painted in black and blue with white medallions of various shapes and sizes, exactly the way they were in the first half of the 18th century. The castle chimney is painted identically, making it one of the most beautiful chimneys of Croatian historical buildings. On the inner facades, two sundials were also reconstructed, and one ground-floor arcade was walled up and turned into a miniature chapel. In the 18th century, during the time of the last Count Ratkay, the castle was furnished with extravagant furniture, lavishly painted masonry heaters, and the walls and ceilings of the salons were covered in frescoes, which are rated as the most valuable rococo period fresco paintings in Croatia. The castle’s eight salons in its two wings are passable and interconnected, and each has a door to the castle’s common porch with glazed arcades that serves as an exhibition space for the works of the greatest Croatian painters and sculptors. Each of the salons has its own distinctive murals. And so, the east representative salon is decorated with the illusion of marble pillars at the foot of which smiling, rotund putti − the worldly variant of cherubs − lie. Three salons are decorated with a motif which is typical of the rococo period containing shells, and fruit and flower garlands. Another salon brings scenes from everyday life, work and entertainment − forging, fishing, farming, playing cards, playing music, painting, paddling, with putti in the main role. There are also depictions of the three Ratkay family castles − Miljana Castle the way it once looked with

farm buildings and vegetable gardens near the castle, Veliki Tabor and what seems to be Mali Tabor. The most valuable wall paintings are to be found in the south salon called the Miljana Cabinet. These are lavishly painted allegorical scenes in the window niches, attributed to Anton Jožef Lechinger, and needlepoint-like landscapes with fragile and ethereal characters, and pastoral scenes over the windows, entirely in the style of Watteau and Boucher, with authorship attributed to Franz Ignaz Flurer. Allegorical scenes are a reflection of the then society distancing itself from rigid religious dogmas and nearing the laws of nature, secular art, philosophy, reflection on the meaning of life, its cycles and the seasons. Accordingly, here you’ll find figurative depictions of the four seasons and the four ages of man with the astrological signs that accompany them, the four elements, the four temperaments, and the five human senses. So the scene of spring and childhood is ruled by the symbol of Taurus, the depiction of summer and the youth gathering around a horn player, which is followed by the age of maturity and the experience of an autumn allegory, while winter is portrayed with barren branches and an old man as a symbol of wisdom. Fire, water, air and earth; the sanguine, choleric, melancholic, and phlegmatic temperaments; sight, hearing, taste, smell, and touch, courage; birth and death, the thriving of nature and its aging − they all revolve in an imaginary carousel which reminds us that everything has an end. However, regardless of how lively the scenes of a laidback country life led by the gentry are, they are all imbued with an awareness of the passage of life, as the forerunner and herald of the upcoming romantic Weltschmerz. It’s difficult to say which season makes Miljana Castle the most alluring. Is it in spring when it’s surrounded by lush greenery, and when the gentle purple waterfalls of the wisteria fall down the facade in fragrant clusters over the castle’s stone portal? Or is it during the maturity and comfort of summer, or during the luxurious gold of autumn? Or perhaps in winter, when all is quiet, bathed in an opal-like glow of the winter sun and dimmed by the virgin white snow covering all, literally all, except the traces  of some lovely, timid deer?

SSP_0287_208x260+4mm.indd 2

20.11.18 10:55

Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos _ Goran Å afarek

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NACIONALNI PARKOVI NATIONAL PARKS Plitvička jezera naš su najpoznatiji nacionalni park. Veličanstveni slapovi, mirna jezera, impresivni kanjoni, bujna i divlja šuma… sve to privlači više od milijun gostiju na godinu. Svako je godišnje doba ovdje divno i posebno, a zimi zaleđeni slapovi, snijegom prekrivene staze, ledom i injem zarobljena stabla djeluju kao dio neke zimske čarolije, kao da baš ovdje stoluje Snježna kraljica. The Plitvice Lakes are Croatia’s most famous national park. Breathtaking waterfalls, tranquil lakes, impressive canyons, a lush and wild forest... all this attracts over a million visitors each year. On the Plitvice Lakes every season is stunning and special, but in winter, its frozen waterfalls, snow-covered tracks, trees trapped in ice and frost make the lakes look like a winter magic story set, the seat of the Snow Queen herself. dragulja. Nisu pogriješili došavši ovamo, a nije ni UNESCO kada je ovaj park uvrstio na svoj popis svjetske prirodne baštine. Osim ljepote ovaj park štiti i čuva veliku prirodnu vrijednost, ponajprije sedru, čarobnu tvar koja je i sagradila ovo svjetsko čudo. Sedra je vrsta stijene koja nastaje na slapovima i koja u neprekidnu krugu i stvara slapove. Plitvička jezera lijepa su u svako doba − u proljeće se sve zazeleni, a kad se hrane kišama, slapovi su u punoj snazi. Ljeti se smire, a jezera tada zrače smirenošću i dostojanstvom. U jesen se vraćaju kiše, a u listopadu se jezera ogrnu predivnim

plaštom žutih i crvenih boja. No ni zimi Plitvička jezera ne gube draž. Štoviše, zaleđena jezera i slapovi postaju posebna atrakcija. No za najljepši se dojam jako hladna zima treba spojiti s puno snijega. Nije svake godine tako, no kad se to dogodi, počinje prava zimska čarolija, kao iz bajke. Međutim, za razliku od bajke o Snježnoj kraljici, ovdje je sve pitomo i idilično. Lika je najhladnija hrvatska regija, a naziv jednoga od vrhova, Ozeblin, slikovito govori kakve temperature ovdje mogu vladati. Hladni je zimski dah zaledio i najveće i najmoćnije plitvičke slapove.

litvička jezera najpoznatiji su nacionalni park u Hrvatskoj. Svi znaju za slike s razglednica: šušteći i veličanstveni slapovi, manja i veća plava jezera u kojima se odražava bujna okolna vegetacija, ali i krševitost kanjona. Hladne ali bistre vode omogućuju posjetiteljima da se dive ribama, rakovima i ostalim stanovnicima jezera. Više od milijun ljudi godišnje iz svih zakutaka svijeta obilazi kilometre staza, posebno one drvene kojima se dopire do srca ovoga prirodnog

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Najljepši se pogled ovoga nacionalnog parka pruža s vidikovca na Ulazu 1. Veliki slap, zvan i slap Plitvice, visok 78 metara, s kojega se inače razlijeva vodena zavjesa, a prštanje kapljica nadaleko osvježava i vlaži, sada je u posvemašnjem stisku zime. Tek malen mlaz vode odaje negdašnju silinu, sada u potpunosti ukroćenu. Ogromne sige, nekoć krijeste slapova, vise s krševitih litica i po nekoliko metara te se čini kao da će se svakoga trena odlomiti, no dovoljno su čvrste. Ipak valja biti oprezan, priroda je nepredvidiva. I Sastavci, mjesto na kojem se ovaj slap ruši i spaja s posljednjim jezerom, sada su ledeno grotlo, a ono malo tekuće vode javlja se u igri svjetla u gotovo nestvarnoj plavoj, tirkiznoj nijansi. Ledene oblike zaleđenih slapova koje su oblikovali hladni zimski dani teško je opisati, pa čak i bujnoj mašti ponestaje nadahnuća. Led blista na vedrome nebu, modrome kao more, bez trunke vlage. Udaljeni planinski vrhovi, inače skriveni sivkastom maglicom i vlagom u zraku, sada blješte na suncu. No oči trpe najviše od snijega na jezerima. Obale su sada gotovo neprepoznatljive, oštre konture stijena i bilja sada su snježne obline. Međutim, ta lje-

pota može biti varljiva − pogrešan korak i čovjek se u trenu nađe na ledu. Za najtvrđih zima debljina leda izdržala bi i težinu čovjeka, no nikako ne treba provjeravati. Ne samo zbog sigurnosti nego i strogih pravila zaštite prirode nacionalnog parka. Izvan očišćenih staza kretanje bi bilo gotovo nemoguće jer debljina snježnog prekrivača zna premašiti i metar. Zbog ekstremnih uvjeta zimi je otvoren samo manji dio parka, onaj u kanjonu. Riječ je o Donjim jezerima, zadnjima u nizu. U ostatku nacionalnoga parka sada caruju priroda, mir i tišina. Ovo je prilika

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da ris, vuk i medvjed nanovo osvoje izgubljeni teritorij Gornjih jezera, koji im je i pripadao mnogo prije nego što se čovjek ovamo naselio. No kad se snijeg povuče, a ljudi opet počnu obilaziti Gornja jezera, ove veličanstvene životinje vratit će se u duboke šume koje okružuju nacionalni park. Plitvička jezera sasvim su dovoljan prostor za ove velike zvijeri koje su u velikom dijelu Europe nestale. Zima u Plitvičkim jezerima može dugo potrajati, stvarajući tako priliku svim ljubiteljima prirode da posjete ovaj smrznuti komadić raja na zemlji. A to je prilika koja  se uistinu ne smije propustiti.

yellow and red coat. The Plitvice Lakes do not lose their charm in winter either. Moreover, the frozen lakes and waterfalls make them look particularly attractive. But, for the impression to be as beautiful as possible, a very cold winter should go hand in hand with lots of snow. This isn’t so every year, but when it is, the lakes become a real winter magic fairy tale set. However, unlike in the Snow Queen fairy tale, everything is tame and idyllic here. Lika is the coldest region in Croatia, and the name of one of the peaks, Ozeblin (Frostbitten in translation), speaks volumes about the temperatures ruling the region. The ice-cold breath of winter freezes even the biggest and most powerful waterfalls of Plitvice. The most beautiful view of the national park stretches from the lookout point at Entrance 1. The 78-metre-tall Great Waterfall, also called the Plitvice Waterfall, which a water curtain falls from, and whose droplets refresh and moisten from afar, is now kept a firm grip on by winter. Only a tiny stream of water hints at its now fully tamed power. Enormously long icicles, waterfall crests during the other seasons, hang from rocky cliffs, and it seems as if they could break off at any time, but they are firmly attached. Nevertheless, erring on the side of caution is recommended

he Plitvice Lakes are Croatia’s most famous national park. We’ve all seen picture postcard views of the lakes: murmuring and magnificent waterfalls, smaller and larger blue lakes reflecting the surrounding lush vegetation, and the karst of the canyons. The lakes’ cold but crystal clear waters allow visitors to admire the fish, crabs and other residents of the lakes. Over a million people a year from all corners of the world tread the miles of the surrounding tracks, particularly the wooden footbridges that reach the heart of this natural jewel. They were right to come here, and so was UNESCO when it

included this park in its list of world heritage sites. Except for beauty, this park has been protecting and preserving another great natural value, first and foremost tufa, a magic substance that had built this world wonder. Tufa is a type of rock which is formed by waterfalls and which, in a continuous cycle, forms waterfalls. The Plitvice Lakes are beautiful during all seasons. In spring, everything turns green, and the waterfalls, fed by rains, are in full swing. In summer, they quiet down, and the lakes then radiate a certain calmness and dignity. Rains return in autumn, and in October the lakes are draped in a stunning

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because nature is indeed unpredictable. Sastavci too, the spot where this waterfall crashes and connects with the last lake, is now an ice crater, and its tiny stream of water appears to be playing in the light in an almost surreal shade of turquoise. The shapes of ice of frozen waterfalls created by cold winter days are difficult to describe by even the most vivid of imaginations. Ice glitters in the clear sky, which is as blue as the sea, and there’s no humidity. The distant mountain peaks, which are normally veiled in a greyish mist and high humidity, now sparkle in the sun. But, it’s from the snow cover on the lakes that the eyes suffer the most. The lakeshores are now almost unrecognisable, the sharp contours of rocks and the plants are now snowcovered curves. However, this beauty can easily mislead − one wrong step and you’ll find yourself on ice. During the toughest of winters, the thickness of the ice would hold your weight, but this should not be tested at any cost. Not only for safety reasons, but also because of the strict nature protection rules of the national park. Walking outside tracks that have been cleaned is virtually impossible since the snow cover can easily reach over a metre in height. Due to extreme weather conditions, only a small part of the park is open in winter, the part around the canyon. These are the

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Lower Lakes, the last ones in a cascading sequence. In the rest of the national park, nature, peace and quiet reign now. This time of the year gives the lynx, the wolf and the bear the chance to reclaim the lost territory of the Upper Lakes, which had once belonged only to them before man decided to settle there. But once the snow melts and people again head to the Upper Lakes, these magnificent animals will once again

return to the deep forests surrounding the national park. The area of the Plitvice Lakes provides a sufficiently large habitat for these big beasts that have become extinct in much of Europe. Winter in the Plitvice Lakes can indeed be long, giving all nature lovers a chance to visit this frozen piece of paradise on earth. And this is a chance that should not be  missed out on.

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GASTRO Piše/By _ Ozren Kanceljak

Fotografije/Photos _ Damir Fabijanić

Na koju god se stranu svijeta oko Zagreba uputili, lako ćete naći eno-gastro raj, a ovo su naši prijedlozi za takve doživljaje. Whichever side of the world around Zagreb you go, you’re bound to come across a wineand-dine paradise. These are our recommendations for such an experience.

krugu oko Zagreba postoji cijeli niz izvanrednih izletišta koja svoju ponudu zasnivaju na očuvanju bogate kulinarske tradicije. Cijele obitelji s prijateljima sjedaju u automobile da bi barem na dan osjetile dašak tradicije i uživale u prirodnom i rustikalnom ambijentu te se osladile vrhunskim gastronomskim delicijama, ali i ponajboljim hrvatskim vinima. Neki od takvih izleta opjevani su u knjigama. No možda je najpopularniji takav obiteljski izlet s prijateljima ekraniziran u najzagrebačkijem filmu svih vremena Tko pjeva, zlo ne misli Kreše Golika iz 1970., gdje su briljirali Mirjana Bohanec, Relja Bašić, Mia Oremović, Franjo Majetić i cijela plejada drugih glumaca. I danas ta navika nije potisnuta. Naprotiv. Izletišta su sve kvalitetnija, a gostiju je sve više. No posebno oduševljava to što su sva jela doživjela unaprjeđenje u interpretaciji koje svojim bogatstvom oduševljava ne samo stalne

Đurina hiža

goste nego, možda još više, veliki broj turista koji ovim izletima žele obogatiti boravak u glavnome gradu.

asing their offer on preserving a rich culinary tradition, there is a number of exciting excursion sites in Zagreb’s immediate vicinity. Entire families and friends sit behind the wheel so as to take in a bit of tradition at least for a day, enjoy a natural and rustic ambience, and relish mouth-watering delicacies and some of the best Croatian wines. Such excursions have even been written about in books. Perhaps the most popular family and friends excursion of the sort is the one

filmed in the most Zagrebian movie of all time, One Song a Day Takes Mischief Away (Tko pjeva zlo ne misli in Croatian) by Krešo Golik from 1970, with brilliant performances given by Mirjana Bohanec, Relja Bašić, Mia Oremović, Franjo Majetić and the lot of other actors. Going on excursions has not changed to date. Quite the contrary. Excursion sites have been gaining in quality, with the number of guests continually increasing. What is particularly exciting is the fact that all their dishes have been reinterpreted, enthusing with their richness both their regular guests and an increasing number of tourists looking to enrich their stay in the capital.

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ĐURINA HIŽA Četrdesetak minuta vožnje od Zagreba potrebno je da se dođe do obronaka Varaždinskih toplica na kojima se nalazi restoran Đurina hiža. Ugled obiteljskoga restorana grade čak tri generacije obitelji Božić. Nikola danas vodi cijeli pogon, majka Milica i sestra Biljana zadužene su za kuhinju, a otac Nebojša za domaće, vlastite suhomesnate proizvode i proizvodnju vrhunskih vina. Njegov rajnski rizling i sauvignon mogu se bez ikakve zadrške mjeriti s bilo kojim najboljim hrvatskim vinima. Postoje jaki razlozi zašto svakoga dana, a posebno vikendima, brojni Zagrepčani, Zagorci, Međimurci pa i Mađari potegnu do ovoga restorana. Jelovnik Đurine hiže jedinstven je zahvaljujući lokalnim mesnim specijalitetima, a posebice delicijama od divljači koje se teško drugdje uopće mogu naći. Na ploči restorana kredom je ispisana trenutna ponuda odležanih steakova s točnom gramažom, a odmah se prekriži ono što se prodalo. Sve je usmjereno na kombinaciju vrhunskog mesa i sezonskih namirnica koje rastu u obližnjim šumama ili se uzgajaju u susjednim OPG-ovima. No možda bi se ipak trebala istaknuti po-

Srneća pljeskavica, file od jelena i marinirana svinjska rebrica na grilu Đurine Hiže Venison burger, venison fillet and marinated spare ribs on the grill of the Đurina Hiža restaurant

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nuda fantastičnih rib-eye ili velikih T-bone odrezaka odležanih 45 dana, nešto BBQ klasike, a posebice originalnih srnećih pljeskavica i steakova te filea divljači u raznim umacima. Getting to the Đurina Hiža restaurant on the slopes of Varaždinske Toplice takes a forty-minute drive from Zagreb. The reputation of this family-run restaurant rests on three generations of the Božić family. Nikola runs the whole restaurant business, his mother Milica and sister Biljana are in charge of the kitchen, and his father Nebojša in charge of their production of homemade cured meat products and top-quality wines. His Rhine Riesling and Sauvignon can indeed and without any hesitation be measured against any of the best Croatian wines. There are good reasons why every day, and particularly at weekends, many people from Zagreb, Zagorje, Međimurje and even Hungary rush to this restaurant. Local meat specialities and, in particular, game delicacies which are unlikely to be found any place else make the menu of the Đurina Hiža restaurant unique, with the restaurant’s board bringing their current offer of aged steaks

(whose weight is expressed in grams, and the ones that are sold are immediately crossed off). The Đurina Hiža restaurant focuses on a combination of top-quality meat and seasonal ingredients that grow in nearby forests or on family farms in the vicinity. Their offer of fantastic rib-eye or large T-bone steaks that have been aged for 45 days, some BBQ classics, and their original venison burgers and steaks, as well as game fillets in different sauces are to be singled out.

01-03 Tri generacije obitelji Božić njeguju kvalitetu jedinstvene ponude seoskog imanja Đurina Hiža Three generations of the Božić family have been looking after the quality of the unique offer of the Đurina Hiža rural estate

Slika osnivača, djeda Đure A painting of the founder, grandfather Đuro 03

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01 Vuglec breg, tradicionalni specijalitet patka s mlincima Vuglec Breg’s traditional speciality, duck with mlinci 02 Pečeni štrukli Baked štrukli (traditional cottagecheese-filled pasta) 03 Pogled na zagorske brege s terase restorana Vuglec breg A view of the hills of Zagorje from the terrace of the Vuglec Breg restaurant 04 Pjenušac i vinski podrum te vlasnici, otac Boris i sin Mario Sparkling wine and the wine cellar of the owners, father Boris and his son Mario

VUGLEC BREG Teško je zamisliti bolju potvrdu stare latinske uzrečice Nomen est omen (ime je znamen) od obitelji Vuglec i njihova romantičnog, idiličnog imanja u srcu Zagorja, Vuglec brega. Obitelj Vuglec doista je stvorila izolirani, uređeni pastoralni kutak koji se prostire na više od 12 hektara površine, a s vrha svojega brega od približno 300 metara nadmorske visine puca prekrasan pogled na okolne zagorske brežuljke načičkane kućicama, kletima i crkvicama. I u tom ugođaju, tek kojih četrdesetak kilometara od Zagreba u pravcu Krapine, nalazi se vrhunski

restoran s apartmanskim naseljem u moderniziranim seoskim hižama. Sve to pruža mogućnost istinskoga bijega od gradske gužve i opuštanja u prirodi, ali potpomognuto vrhunskom, modernom uslugom i proizvodima. Cijeli se koncept zasniva na ideji pružanja ugođaja modernizirane zagorske tradicije, domaće bakine kuhinje kakva se sve rjeđe spravlja u domovima te vrhunskih vlastitih vina prema standardima dvadeset prvog stoljeća. I doista, boravkom u Vuglec bregu dobiva se slika Zagorja i kontinentalne Hrvatske kakva bi mogla (a možda i trebala) biti. Domaću, beskompromisnu kvalitetu i vrhunski, gotovo zaboravljeni doživljaj autentičnog ambijenta i prirode pružaju originalno uređeni restoran u zagorskom stilu, otvoreni kamin i terasa sa slamnatim krovom. Ako poželite prenoćiti i provesti nekoliko dana na odmoru, na raspolaganju su i sportski tereni te obilasci obližnjih znamenitosti poput Muzeja krapinskog pračovjeka. 02

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There’s no better proof of the old Latin adage Nomen est omen − which in rough translation reads: The name says it all! − than Vuglec Breg (Vuglec Hill in translation), the Vuglec family’s romantic, idyllic estate in the heart of Zagorje. The Vuglec family has indeed created a secluded, well-kept pastoral corner spreading across 12 hectares of land, with a magnificent view of the surrounding hills of Zagorje spotted with houses and churches stretching from the top of their hill which is some 300 metres above sea level. And it’s in this ambience − which is some forty kilometres away from Zagreb in the direction of Krapina − that a top-quality restaurant with an apartment and room rental complex in modernised rural houses is located. It’s perfect for an escape from the hustle and bustle of the city and relaxation in nature, all backed by top-quality, modern service and products. Their entire concept is based on the idea of providing their guests with an atmosphere of modernised Zagorje traditions, home-cooked meals that seem

to have left our homes and kitchens, and top-quality wines following the standards of the twenty-first century. Indeed, Vuglec Breg paints a picture of Zagorje and continental Croatia the way they could (and indeed should) be like. Their originally decorated restaurant à la Zagorje style, an open fireplace and a thatched roof terrace provide homely, uncompromising quality and an almost forgotten, superb experience of an authentic ambience and nature. Should you decide to stay the night and spend a few days on holiday, sports grounds are also available, as well as tours of nearby attractions, such as the Krapina Neanderthal Museum.

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Raskoš Moslavačkog stola imanja Kezele The richness of Moslavina’s Buffet Table of the Kezele estate

02-03 Rustikalni etno ambijent restorana i kuća na imanju Kezele The rustic-ethnic ambience of the Kezele estate restaurant and house

KEZELE − Ja bih Moslavački stol uveo u obavezni nacionalni školski program, da svako dijete osobno iskusi ljepotu i bogatstvo naše trpeze i tradicije, rekao mi je prijatelj, inače profesor povijesti u jednoj zagrebačkoj gimaziji. A pod

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imenom Moslavački stol krije se otvorena ponuda za kušanje i uživanje u cjelovitom jelovniku imanja Kezele, koje se nalazi iza Ivanićgrada, tek pola sata udaljenoga od Zagreba. Na stolu se nalazi gotovo sve što moslavačka, ali i šira kontinentalna tradicija nudi: od domaćih kobasica, patke s mlincima, divljači u saftu, pohanog domaćeg piceka, ali oplemenjeno krasnim povrtnim (vegetarijanskim) jelima od tikvica, patlidžana i, primjerice, zanimljivih okruglica od heljde (što me asociralo na moslavačku varijantu heljdinog falafela). Obitelj Kezele zna što radi. Osim restorana, koji je uređen poput etno muzeja, može se pod stručnim vodstvom u prirodi jahati konja i obići zanimljivu etno zbirku dragocjenosti koje su dugo sakupljane. No posebno se ističu vlastita vrhunska vina. S pravom

su ponosni na škrlet, staru domaću sortu od koje su uspjeli napraviti vrhunsko vino ravnopravno međunarodnim sortama. U ponudi imaju i sjajni rajnski rizling, graševinu, chardonnay, žuti muškat, merlot, shiraz i cabernet sauvignon. Zanimljiva je i mogućnost smještaja u preuređenim starim drvenim kućama, koje posebice koriste tvrtke za svoje team buildinge. Ovo je pravo mjesto za istinski doživljaj hrvatskog sela i tradicije. − I would introduce the Moslavački Stol (Moslavina’s Buffet Table in translation) into the national curriculum, so that all children are given the chance to personally experience the beauty and richness of our cuisine and tradition − a friend and history teacher at a secondary school in Zagreb once told me. Moslavina’s Buffet

Table refers to an open offer to taste and enjoy the entire menu of the Kezele estate, located near Ivanićgrad, only half an hour away from Zagreb. This buffet table contains almost everything that the culinary tradition of Moslavina and the larger part of continental Croatia have to offer: from homemade sausages, duck with mlinci (thin toast-dried flatbread prepared as pasta), game in sauce, breaded and deep fried chicken complemented by delicious vegetable (vegetarian) dished prepared from zucchinis and aubergines, and interesting buckwheat dumplings (which remind of Moslavina’s variant of buckwheat falafel). The Kezele family know what they’re doing. Besides dining in their restaurant, which is decorated as an ethnographic museum, the Kezele family estate also offers horse riding, and exploring a fascinating ethnographic collection of treasures that the family have been collecting for a long time. But, it’s thanks to their top-quality wines that the Kezele family stands out. They are proud − and with good reason − of their old local variety of grape, namely Škrlet, from which they’ve been producing a topquality wine on a par with international varieties. Their offer also includes a delicious Rhine Riesling, Graševina, Chardonnay, Yellow Musk, Merlot, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. The accommodation they offer is in renovated old wooden houses, which are often used for team building by companies. This is the right place to come to experience what Croatian village life and tradition truly is like. 02

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COWBOY Golemi ranč u stilu westerna, s dvadesetak konja koji trčkaraju unutar velikoga korala, restoranom u pozamašnoj drvenoj brvnari s velikim natkrivenim trijemom, dječjim igralištem, kaubojskim kočijama, indijanskim totemom i šatorima te barom na otvorenome nalazi se desetak minuta od Zagreba, u Markuševcu Turopoljskom, blizu ceste prema zračnoj luci. Ali to nije sve: ovaj kaubojski kompleks koji marljivo vode supružnici Draženka Borak i Darko Delić zaista nudi preseljenje na Divlji zapad jer je sve razrađeno do posljednjeg detalja. Od kauboja koji poslužuju pića i jela, do golemih western porcija mesa koje se serviraju na drvenim platama. Supružnici objašnjavaju kako je došlo do ovoga projekta: Naša fascinacija prirodom i konjima potaknula nas je da iznjedrimo ovaj ranč na čarobnim i šumovitim obroncima Vukomeričkih gorica. I ne čudi da je ranč Cowboy omiljeno izletište obitelji koje žele svojoj djeci

omogućiti igranje u prirodi na svježem zraku i mogućnost da gledaju ili jašu konje. Međutim, ranč se pročuo i po izvanserijskom roštilju te se za slobodne stolove sve češće bore i namjernici usmjereni na uživanje u vrhunskome mesu. Osim toga, kako je usmena predaja najbolja reklama, sve je više putnika koji dolaze iz kultura gdje se ne jede svinjetina te odlaze na ranč čim izađu iz zrakoplova. Naime, burgeri na ranču Cowboy sadrže isključivo govedinu koju sami spremaju prema vlastitoj recepturi. A huge ranch reminiscent of western movies, with some twenty horses running around in a huge corral, a restaurant in a large wooden cottage with a large covered porch, a children’s playground, cowboy carriages, an Indian totem and tepees, and an outdoor bar − all this is to be found some ten minutes away from Zagreb, in Markuševec Turopoljski, near the road to the airport. But, that’s not all! This cowboy 01 Western ambijent ranča Cowboy The ambience of the Cowboy Ranch reminiscent of western movies 02 Konobarice kaubojke Cowgirl waitresses 03 Kaubojski roštilj poslužen na drvenim platama Cowboy-style grilled meat and dishes served on wooden platters

complex, run by spouses Draženka Borak and Darko Delić, does transport you back in time to the Wild West given that the tiniest details have been carefully thoughtout, from your meals and drinks served by cowgirls and cowboys to huge westernmovie-size portions of meat served on wooden platters. Spouses Draženka and Darko explain how this project came about: What inspired us to build this ranch on the magical and wooded hills of Vukomeričke Gorice was our fascination with nature and horses. It’s no surprise that Cowboy Ranch is a favourite excursion site for families who wish to take their children to play in nature, out in the open, while watching or riding horses. A brilliant barbeque is another thing that makes this ranch widely popular, with tables being difficult to get by those who’re looking to enjoy a fine piece of grilled meat. Besides, given that word-of-mouth is the best recommendation there is, an increasing number of travellers coming from cultures that don’t eat pork make the ranch their first stop as soon as they leave their planes. More specifically, only beef goes into their burgers which they make themselves according to their own recipe.

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M. Martinjaš

da ga čine poželjnim i dostupnim prema suvremenim standardima. U svojem restoranu nude jela po izvornim receptima, poput mesa z tiblice, pačjih prsa s heljdinom kašom ili ručno rađenih trganaca, starinske autohtone tjestenine, u vrhnju te pečenih rebaraca u dvorskom umaku s domaćim, međimurskim rustikalnim krumpirom. Za kraj obroka uvijek preporučuju autohtonu,

Not far from Čakovec, less than an hour away from Zagreb, the village of Lopatinec is located, where the Međimurski Dvori (the Court of Međimurje in translation) excursion site and restaurant is, which has been run by spouses Tatjana and Marijan Martinjaš since 2005. The Martinjaš family have been building their court with a very

M. Martinjaš

MEĐIMURSKI DVORI Nedaleko od Čakovca, ni jedan sat vožnje od Zagreba, smjestilo se mjestašce Lopatinec gdje se nalazi izletište i restoran Međimurski dvori, koje još od 2005. godine vode supružnici Tatjana i Marijan Martinjaš. Obitelj Martinjaš svoje dvore gradi s vrlo jasnim konceptom očuvanja najvrjednijih značajki međimurskoga gastro i etno identiteta, ali tako

bogatu međimursku gibanicu. Pomnjivo birane namirnice iz domaćeg uzgoja jamče vrhunsku kvalitetu istinskih okusa. Na vinskoj karti u ponudi je čak pedesetak etiketa vodećih međimurskih vinara. Na pitanje u kojem smjeru žele razvijati svoj projekt, koji osim restorana nudi i tečaj kuhanja Etno Art te turističku agenciju Etno Art travel, specijaliziranu za destinacijski menadžment, Marijan Martinjaš kaže: − Priča koju smo započeli razvijati vezana je uz staroslavenske mitove i legende, kao i likove koji su po predajama naših starih oduvijek pobuđivali maštu. Riječ je o tematskom parku Bajkovita šuma, koji će biti primjeren za djecu i obitelji, ali će biti i puno sadržaja za smještaj i aktivan boravak u prirodi za korporativne korisnike i izletnike svih generacija.

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D. Miletić

When asked about the direction that they want to continue developing their project in − in addition to running a restaurant, the Martinjaš family also organise a cookery course called Etno Art, and run a travel agency specialising in destination management called Etno Art Travel − Marijan Martinjaš says: − The story we started developing is linked to old-Slavic myths and legends, and characters that have, according to local lore, always fired our imagination. It’ll be a family-friendly theme park called Bajkovita Šuma (Magic Forest in translation), with plenty of different types of accommodation facilities available for an active holiday in nature for both corporate users  and picnickers of all generations.

hand-torn pasta) in cream sauce, and roasted spare ribs in a sauce of the court with homemade rustic potatoes from the region. For dessert, they’ll always recommend their local, rich Međimurje pie called Međimurska Gibanica. Carefully selected, locally farmed ingredients guarantee the highest quality and proper flavours. Their wine list has as many as some fifty labels of leading winemakers from Međimurje.

01 Svinjski lungić na posteljici od domaćeg povrća Pork loin on a bed of homegrown vegetables 02 Vlasnik Marijan Martinjaš Marijan Martinjaš, the owner 03 Meso z tiblice Tiblica pot preserved meat 04 Mali botanički vrt s fontanom u sklopu restorana A small botanical garden with a fountain within the restaurant complex

D. Miletić

clear concept in mind. More specifically, the concept of preserving the most valuable features of Međimurje’s culinary and wine identity, having made it desirable and available in line with today’s standards. In their restaurant, they offer dishes cooked according to original recipes, such as Međimurje’s tiblica pot preserved meat, duck breast with buckwheat or handmade trganci (traditional, local

M. Martinjaš

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Zaštita tradicionalnih poljoprivrednih i prehrambenih proizvoda Tradicionalni poljoprivredni i prehrambeni proizvodi oduvijek imaju svoje mjesto u gastronomskoj ponudi, a potrošači ih vole i rado kupuju. Europska unija još je devedesetih godina uspostavila jedinstven sustav koji omogućuje zaštitu naziva tradicionalnih proizvoda čija kvaliteta i posebne značajke nastaju pod utjecajem ljudskih ili prirodnih čimbenika specifičnih za određeno zemljopisno područje ili su pak proizvedeni prema tradicionalnim recepturama ili metodama proizvodnje. Takvi proizvodi označeni su znakom za zaštićenu oznaku izvornosti, zaštićenu oznaku zemljopisnog podrijetla ili zajamčeno tradicionalni specijalitet. Znak za zaštićenu oznaku izvornosti, zaštićenu oznaku zemljopisnog podrijetla ili zajamčeno tradicionalni specijalitet koji se nalazi na ambalaži neposredno uz naziv proizvoda jamstvo je originalnoga

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proizvoda. Upravo taj znak potrošaču jamči kupnju autentičnog i kontroliranog proizvoda, priznate kvalitete i lokalnog podrijetla. Interes za zaštitom naziva tradicionalnih proizvoda europskim oznakama kvalitete za poljoprivredne i prehrambene proizvode u posljednje je dvije godine znatno porastao, što je svakako i posljedica kontinuiranih promidžbenih i edukativnih aktivnosti Ministarstva poljoprivrede. Danas Republika Hrvatska ima čak 31 poljoprivredni i prehrambeni proizvod čiji je naziv zaštićen kao zaštićena oznaka izvornosti ili zaštićena oznaka zemljopisnog podrijetla, od kojih je čak 20 registrirano na razini Europske unije. Paški sir Paški sir jedan je od najcjenjenijih hrvatskih sireva zbog posebnosti otoka Paga, njegove oskudne vegetacije, raznog aromatičnog bilja (posebno kadulje) i po-

solice koju s mora donosi bura s Velebita. Naziv Paški sir u postupku je registracije zaštićene oznake izvornosti na razini Europske unije. Riječ je o ovčjem siru tvrdog tijesta proizvedenome od punomasnog ovčjeg mlijeka izvorne hrvatske pasmine − paške ovce. Proizvodi se od sirova ili termički obrađena ovčjeg mlijeka te morske soli proizvedene na području otoka Paga i dvaju otočića paškog arhipelaga: Mauna i Škrde. Nakon 60 dana zrenja sir se označava nazivom Paški sir − znakom plave boje s obrisima otoka Paga. Proizvođači paškog sira svake godine osvajaju prestižne nagrade na natjecanjima i sajmovima u Hrvatskoj i u svijetu. Paška sirana najstarija je sirana na otoku Pagu i slobodno je možemo nazvati majkom paškoga sira jer jedina ima više od 70 godina tradicije njegove proizvodnje. S Paškom siranom počinje priča o paškom siru prvim plasiranjem na tržište, etiketiranjem i dobivanjem nagrada i medalja. Stvorili su brend poznat u cijelome svijetu. U skladu s time uveli su certifikate HACCP i ISO 9001:2008, a posjeduju i HALAL kvalitetu, a njihovi su sirevi nositelji oznake Hrvatski otočni proizvod.

− Hrvatska ima izvrsne zemljopisne uvjete za proizvodnju ovakvih delicija, a zaštićenom oznakom izvornosti i zaštićenom oznakom zemljopisnog podrijetla zaštitili smo već 20 proizvoda na razini EU-a. Takvi proizvodi jamče vam iznimnu kvalitetu i originalan način njihove pripreme, koji postoji samo u Hrvatskoj − izjavio je potpredsjednik Vlade i ministar poljoprivrede Tomislav Tolušić te dodao − Paški sir istinski je gurmanski užitak, a najbolje ga je konzumirati uz pršut i čašu dobrog crnog vina. Dingač Dingač je prvo vino s kontroliranim podrijetlom u Hrvatskoj, a sinonim je za tradiciju i vino izražene osobnosti. Vino je to čiji miris i okus prožimaju međusobna stoljetna ovisnost čovjeka i trsja, koji žive zajedno, okupani suncem na škrtom, kamenitom tlu koje se strmo pruža prema moru. Vina sa zaštićenom oznakom izvornosti (ZOI) Dingač kristalno su bistra vina tamno rubin crvene boje, koja mogu imati lagani ljubičasti odsjaj ili slabo naglašenu svijetlu nijansu smeđe boje u odsjaju. To su vina zaokruženoga, slabo hrapa-

vo-trpkastog okusa naglašene svježine, a ovisno o vremenu odležavanja, ona postaju puna, harmonična, skladna i mekana. Ako odležavaju 24 mjeseca, imaju pun, mekan, gorkast okus s naglašenim i skladno uklopljenim ostatkom neprevrelog šećera. Dodatni izrazi koji se mogu koristiti za ZOI Dingač jesu Klasiko i Riserva. Područje ZOI Dingač smješteno je na strminama uz južnu morsku obalu srednjeg dijela poluotoka Pelješac, gdje je zasađeno 78,5 hektara vinograda. Jedan od malih proizvođača dingača jest i obiteljsko poljoprivredno gospodarstvo Ivo Violić sa 30.000 trsova smještenih na zavidnim pozicijama Potomja na Pelješcu, koji svoj dingač prodaje pod nazivom Jurica vino. U njegovoj konobi mogu se kušati autohtona vina Pelješca − od plavca malog do dingača, likera i desertnih  vina. Traditional agricultural product and food protection Traditional agricultural products and foods have always had their place in the gastronomic offer of Croatia, with consumers loving and buying them gladly. In the 1990s, the European Union established

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years, which has been contributed to by the continuous efforts and educational activities of the Ministry of Agriculture. Today, the Republic of Croatia has as many as 31 agricultural and food products whose name is protected as a Protected Designation of Origin or Protected Geographical Indication, with 20 of them registered at EU level.

Europske oznake kvalitete - zaštićena oznaka izvornosti, zaštićena oznaka zemljopisnog podrijetla i zajamčeno tradicionalni specijalitet European Quality Labels − Protected Designation of Origin, Protected Geographical Indication, Traditional Specialities Guaranteed a unique system for the protection of the names of traditional products whose quality and special features are created under the influence of human or natural factors specific to a particular geographical region or are produced according to traditional recipes or by using traditional production methods. Such products are labelled with one of the following: Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), or Traditional Specialities Guaranteed (TSG).

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The Protected Designation of Origin, Protected Geographical Indication, or Traditional Specialities Guaranteed labels on the packaging next to the product name guarantee that the product is original. These very labels guarantee consumers the purchase of authentic and controlled products, products of a recognised quality and of a local origin. Interest in protecting the names of traditional products via the European quality labels for agricultural products and foods has increased considerably in the last two

Paški sir Paški sir is one of the most highly valued Croatian cheeses because of the peculiarity of the Island of Pag, its scarce vegetation, various aromatic herbs (sage in particular) and a sea salt sediment formed by a fierce cold wind blowing from the Velebit Mountain called the bora. The name Paški sir is in the process of registration as a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) at EU level. It is a sheep milk cheese with a hard crust, and is produced from the raw or heat-treated whole sheep milk of an autochthonous Croatian breed of sheep − the Pag Sheep − to which sea salt is added produced in the area of the Island of Pag and two islets in the Pag archipelago: Maun and Skrda. The cheese is given the blue Paški sir label bearing the contours of the Island of Pag after at least 60 days of maturation. Producers of Paški sir have been winning prestigious awards at competitions and fairs in both Croatia and worldwide. The Paška Sirana dairy factory is the oldest cheese factory on the Island of Pag and it can easily be said that it is the mother of the Paški sir cheese, given that it is the only cheese factory whose tradition of producing Paški sir is over 70 years old. It is with the Paška Sirana dairy factory that the story of Paški sir, the very first instance of market placement, labelling, and winning awards and medals begins. They created a brand widely known throughout the world. Accordingly, they are HACCP, ISO 9001:2008 and HALAL certified, and their cheeses also bear the Croatian Island Product label. − Croatia’s geographical conditions for producing such delicacies are excellent. We have already protected 20 products and foods with names registered at EU level as Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) or Protected Geographical Indication (PGI). Such products guarantee exceptional quality and original preparation methods that exist only in Croatia − said the Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Agriculture, Tomislav Tolušić, adding that Paški sir is

astringent taste which is markedly fresh, and depending on the time of ageing, it becomes full, harmonious, balanced and soft, and if left to age for 24 months, it has a full, soft, slightly bitter taste with a pronounced and harmoniously incorporated remnant tang of unrefined sugar. Classico and Riserva are additional descriptors that can be used for PDO-labelled Dingač wines, whose grapes are cultivated on the slopes along the southern coastline of the central

a true gourmet delight, which is best had with prosciutto and a glass of good quality red wine. Dingač Dingač is the first Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) labelled wine in Croatia, and is synonymous with tradition. This is a wine with a pronounced personality, whose aroma and taste are imbued with the centuries-old interdependence of man and grapevine living together, bathed in sunshine on poor, rocky ground steeply sloping towards the sea. The Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) labelled Dingač wine is a crystal clear wine of a dark ruby red colour, which can have a light purple shine or a shine characterised by a slightly accentuated light shade of brown. It features a well-rounded, slightly

part of the Pelješac Peninsula, where 78.5 ha of vineyards are planted. The Ivo Violić family farm − cultivating 30,000 grapevines in the very favourable location of Potomja on Pelješac, and marketing their Dingač as Jurica vino − is one of the small producers of Dingač. In their tavern, the autochthonous wines of Pelješac can be tasted − ranging from Plavac to Dingač − as well as liqueurs and dessert  wines.

REGISTRIRANE OZNAKE NA RAZINI EU-a / REGISTERED DESIGNATION AT EU LEVEL ZAŠTIĆENA OZNAKA IZVORNOSTI / PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN

ZAŠTIĆENA OZNAKA ZEMLJOPISNOG PODRIJETLA / PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION

1. Ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje Cres (olive oil)

1. Krčki pršut (prosciutto)

2. Neretvanska mandarina (mandarins)

2. Baranjski kulen (kulen sausage)

3. Ogulinski kiseli kupus / Ogulinsko kiselo zelje (sauerkraut)

3. Lički krumpir (potatoes)

4. Istarski pršut / Istrski pršut (prosciutto)

4. Drniški pršut (prosciutto)

5. Krčko maslinovo ulje (olive oil)

5. Dalmatinski pršut (prosciutto)

6. Korčulansko maslinovo ulje (olive oil)

6. Poljički soparnik / Poljički zeljanik / Poljički uljenjak (Swiss chard pie)

7. Paška janjetina (lamb)

7. Zagorski puran (turkey)

8. Šoltansko maslinovo ulje (olive oil)

8. Slavonski kulen / Slavonski kulin (kulen sausage)

9. Varaždinsko zelje (cabbage)

9. Međimursko meso ‘z tiblice (pot preserved meat)

10. Slavonski med (honey)

10. Lička janjetina (lamb)

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PRIRODNE LJEPOTE NATURAL BEAUTIES

Tekst i fotografije/ Text and photos _ Goran Šafarek

Drevni, kraljevski gradić Nin u Dalmaciji osim klasične ljetne i kulturne postaje i prirodna destinacija. Ptice u muljevitoj morskoj laguni i solani danas su, uz povijesne crkvice i Grgura Ninskog, zaštitni znak ovoga čarobnog mjesta.

Ninska solana i grad Nin The Nin Saltworks and the town of Nin

The ancient and royal town of Nin in Dalmatia is − besides a common summer holiday spot and cultural site − a natural destination too. Today, aside from historic churches and Gregory of Nin, birds in the muddy sea lagoon and the Nin Saltworks are a trademark of this magical place.

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Slana muljevita moÄ?vara Salt muddy marsh

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Crkva sv. KriÅ¾a u Ninu The Church of the Holy Cross in Nin

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01 Promatranje ptica u Ninu Birdwatching in Nin 02 Vlastelica A black-winged stilt 03 Plamenci Flamingos CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2018

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Pčelarice Bee-eaters

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01 Vodomar s plijenom A common kingfisher with its catch 02 Berba soli u solani Salt harvesting

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tari hrvatski gradić Nin oduvijek je privlačio ljubitelje starina. Ilirsko pleme Liburni započelo je ovdje tijek povijesti još prije tri tisuće godina, a kip Grgura Ninskog, crkva sv. Nikole i sv. Križa samo su dio iznimno bogate kulturne baštine. Usto, mirne pješčane plaže mame kupače, a ljekoviti mulj one kojima je potrebna zdravstvena njega. No uz povijesnu baštinu sve više izranja i priroda Nina. Slana muljevita područja pružaju iznimnu prirodnu vrijednost te postaju sve prisutniji dio ninskog identiteta. Ne čudi stoga što je ovaj ljupki gradić postao Europska destinacija izvrsnosti − EDEN na temu Turizam uz vode, a time i ušao u obitelj od stotinjak posebnih i odabranih mjesta u Europi. Biolozi su na području Nina prepoznali vrijedna staništa u sklopu ekološke mreže NATURA 2000, od niskih muljevitih i pjeskovitih obala, stjenovitih obala do kamenjarskih travnjaka. Raznolikosti staništa pridonosi i rječica Ričina odnosno Miljašić jaruga. Ona je izvor slatke vode i stanište slatkovodnih organizama, ali i mnogih vrsta koje su vezane uz nju, poput vretenaca i ptica koje ovamo dolaze piti. Uz nju nalazimo livade, ali najznačajnija su staništa upravo pijesak i mulj. More oko Nina

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toplo je i plitko te tvori lagunu. Od ostatka zaljeva odvojena je ninskim Ždrijcem, pješčanim sprudom nalik ždrijelu, dugom oko 800 metara. Oko Nina ima ukupno osam kilometara pješčanih plaža, od kojih je najdulja Kraljičina plaža, koja se proteže tri kilometra. Sve su one zbog pličine i pijeska idealne za obitelji s malom djecom. Jaki vjetrovi sve više privlače i ljubitelje kite surfinga. Neke od ninskih pješčanih plaža imaju i ljekovito crno blato, koje se u zdravstvene svrhe upotrebljava još od rimskog doba. Blaga mediteranska klima i nezaleđena slana močvara idealne su za zimovanje ptica. Dok je ostatak Europe okovan ledom i snijegom, često tjednima u depresivnoj magli, Nin je i zimi osunčan. Ako govorimo općenito, u ninskoj laguni zabilježeno je 200 vrsta ptica. Brojne patke, liske, čaplje i široka skupina ptica ćurlina ovdje zimuju, na miru i s puno hrane koju pruža laguna. Društvo plamenaca posljednjih je godina odabrao ninsku lagunu kao svoju rezidenciju. Poseban značaj za ptice ima solana, najstarija gospodarska aktivnost u Ninu. Unatoč modernim strojevima proizvodnja soli onakva je kakva je bila još u rimsko doba, o čemu unutar polja soli ponosno svjedoče ostaci rimske zapornice, kamene pregrade za propuštanje morske vode. Solana je kao izmijenjeno područje zadržala većinu prirodnih značajki i sada je zamjensko stanište. To se dobro vidi po sagu biljaka caklenjača u plitkoj vodi, ali i mnogim vrstama ptica. Za Nin je svakako najznačajnija vlastelica, a solana je njezino najznačajnije gnjezdište u Hrvatskoj. Izdaleka su uočljive njezine duge ružičaste noge i ljupko tijelo s crnim krilima na bijelom tijelu. Dakako, duge su joj noge, kao i svim ćurlinima, potrebne za gacanje po blatu ili mulju. Ovoj ptici odgovaraju slatka, bočata i slana voda. Živi na plitkim vodama močvara, laguna, riječnim ušći01 Žalari u letu Stints in flight

02 Šetnja plažom Taking a walk on the beach 03 Ljekovito blato uz Kraljičinu plažu Medicinal mud along the Queen’s Beach CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2018

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ma, pješčanim i muljevitim obalama, ali i u ribnjacima, solanama i taložnicama gdje dubina u pravilu ne smije prelaziti dvadesetak centimetara. I dugačak crni kljun nije uzalud − služi za izvlačenje hrane iz blata i mulja. U brzom hodu kljucaju male beskralježnjake poput kukaca i njihovih ličinki, račiće, školjkaše, puževe, punoglavce, sitne ribe, pokoju sjemenku. Grad Nin snažno promiče ideju održivog razvoja, ekološkog turizma, ponajprije zahvaljujući radu turističke zajednice na čelu s neumornom ravnateljicom Marijom Dejanović. Njena je vizija eko park ninske lagune, razvoj lokalne zajednice koja gospodari, brine i čuva jedinstvenu prirodnu baštinu Hrvatske i Europe. Laguna je glavni fokus u projektu kao i stvaranje održivosti i raznolike turističke ponude koja će ostaviti najmanji ljudski otisak na okolinu te na prvo mjesto staviti staviti okoliš i prirodu. Daljnji se razvoj temelji na prepoznatljivoj kulturnoj i prirodnoj baštini te očuvanju okoliša, a postojanje prirodnih

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staništa treba zahvaliti održivu razvoju turizma i svijesti domaćina o važnosti  prirode.

he old Croatian townlet of Nin has always attracted those interested in history, whose course began three thousand years ago with the Illyrian tribe of the Liburnians. The statue of Gregory of Nin, the Church of St. Nicholas and the Church of the Holy Cross are only a part of Nin’s exceptionally rich cultural heritage. Also, its serene sandy beaches allure swimmers, while its medicinal mud entices all those looking for spa treatment. But, besides its historic heritage, Nin’s natural environment has increasingly been coming to the fore. The salt muddy areas are an extraordinary natural value and have become a significant part of Nin’s identity. It comes as no surprise that this charming town became a European Destination of Excellence − EDEN in the category of Tourism Along Water Regions, with which

it entered the family of about one hundred special and selected places in Europe. As part of the NATURA 2000 ecological network, biologists have identified valuable habitats, from low muddy, sandy and rocky shores to rocky grasslands. The Ričina River or Miljašić Jaruga also contributes to the diversity of habitats. It is a freshwater source and the habitat of not only freshwater organisms, but also many other species, such as dragon- and damselflies, and birds flying there to drink. There are meadows too, but the most important habitats are sand and mud. The sea surrounding Nin is warm and shallow, and forms a lagoon. It is separated from the rest of the bay by Ždrijac, a sandy shoal that looks like a pharynx, which is some 800 metres long. Nin is surrounded by eight kilometres of sandy beaches, the longest of which is the 3-kilometre-long Kraljičina Plaža (Queen’s Beach in translation). These shallow sandy beaches are ideal for families with small children. Strong winds have been attracting

Kite surfing u Ninu sve je popularniji Kite surfing in Nin has been gaining in popularity

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kite surfing enthusiasts as well. Some of Nin’s sandy beaches are also rich in medicinal black mud, which has been used for medical purposes since the Roman times. Nin’s mild Mediterranean climate and the salt marsh which doesn’t freeze over are ideal for the wintering of birds. While the rest of Europe is trapped in ice and snow, and enshrouded in a depressing fog often for weeks on end, Nin is sunny even in winter. In total, 200 bird species have been spotted in Nin’s Lagoon. Numerous ducks, coots, herons and egrets, and a large flock of waders spend their winters here, in peace and with plenty of food provided by the lagoon. In recent years, a flock of flamingos have also chosen Nin’s Lagoon as their residence. Nin Saltworks, the oldest economic activity in Nin, is of particular importance. In spite of there being modern salt processing machines, salt is here still produced the way it was during the Roman era, which is proudly testified to by the remains of a Roman floodgate, a stone partition for the letting in of sea water. Although modified, Nin Saltworks has retained most of its natural features and is now a substitute habitat. This is evidenced by the carpet of common glasswort in shallow water, but also by the many species of birds. The black-winged stilt is certainly the most important species for Nin, with the Nin Saltworks as its most important nesting area in Croatia. Even from

afar, the first thing you’ll spot is its lovely black-winged white body with long pink legs. Just like all waders, stilts too need long legs for wading in mud or sludge. The black-winged stilt likes freshwater, brackish and seawater. Its habitat can be the shallow waters of wetlands, lagoons, river mouths, sandy and muddy shores, but also ponds, saltworks and sedimentation basins, whose depth does not, as a rule, exceed some twenty centimetres. Its long black beak also serves a purpose − it helps to extract food from mud and sludge. In a fast pace, the black-winged stilt pecks small non-invertebrates, such as insects and their larvae, shrimps, shells, snails, tadpoles, small fish, and a seed or two... The town of Nin promotes the idea of sustainable development and ecotourism strongly, first and foremost thanks to the efforts of the local tourist board headed by its tireless director, Marija Dejanović. Her vision is to transform Nin’s Lagoon into an eco-park, and to help develop the local community that manages, takes care of and preserves this unique natural heritage of both Croatia and Europe. The project’s focus is on the lagoon, as well as on the creation of sustainability and diversity in Nin’s tourist offer whose human imprint on the environment should be as insignificant as possible, with the environment and nature coming first. Further development is based on recognisable cultural and

natural heritage, and the preservation of the environment − these natural habitats exist thanks to tourism being developed sustainably and the residents being aware of the  importance of nature.

01 Mala bijela čaplja A snowy egret 02 Povijesno središte Nina Nin’s historic centre 01

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Hrvatska priča o smokvi

Croatian Fig Story Dida Boža priča o životu, djelu i stvaralaštvu obiteljske tradicije koja se razvila u ekološku proizvodnju džemova od smokava i ostalih delikatesa bogatih okusa po najvišim ekološkim standardima. Dida Boža, is a story about life, work and love for Dalmatian land. It is a story of a family fig production tradition, and a brand is inspired by a real person – grandfather of the owner of the company.

ida Boža je stvarna osoba iz Vodica, djed vlasnika tvrtke i cijeli život je radio na zemlji, uzgajao smokve i masline. Danas se proizvodnja odvija u strogo kontroliranim pogonima pri čemu se svaka ekološki uzgojena smokva ručno otvara i kontrolira, a sve kako bi džem zadržao vrsnu kvalitetu. Visok udio ekološki uzgojenog voća te ručno branih plodova daje džemovima punu i osobitu aromu.

Džemovi godinama osvajaju zlatna odličja za izvrsnost, među kojima su nagrade na prestižnom međunarodnom sajmu gurmanske hrane Fancy Food Show u SADu koji okuplja više od 50.000 proizvođača i profesionalaca iz prehrambene industrije diljem svijeta. Pod brandom Dalmatia Spreads, ove delikatese se godišnje izvoze u trgovine širom Sjedinjenih američkih država, Kanade i Europske unije. Proizvodi obuhvaćaju širok asortiman, te okupljaju najbolje od hrvatskih okusa i na Vaš stol donose sve veći broj zdravih, gurmanskih, te jedinstveno netipičnih delicija.

Born in Dalmatia, Dida Boža devoted his entire life to growing figs and olives. Today, the production is maintained in accordance to the highest standards, while each fig is being hand-picked and inspected in order to assure the superior quality of the spreads. Dida Boža products contain high percentage of organically grown fruit, providing full flavour and unique aroma. Fig is queen among the mediterranean fruit and as such it dominates Dida Boža product portfolio. The spreads have since received a vast aray of awards, such as the Gold Medal Awards at Fancy Food Show in the United States attened by over 50.000 food producers across the globe. In the United States and Canada, the products are being branded as Dalmatia Spreads and sell in all major delicacy stores, such as Whole Foods.

Organic spreads and traditional delicacies for a perfect Croatian Gift! ORDER ON-LINE:

www.didaboza.hr or

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THEY CAME TO STAY

Doba oko Božića posebno je vrijeme za balet u Zagrebu jer se tada tradicionalno izvodi Orašar Petra Iljiča Čajkovskog, predstava uz koju su odrastali naraštaji budućih zaljubljenika u balet. Uz ansambl baleta u ovoj predstavi možete vidjeti četiri naše sugovornice, međunarodne baletne umjetnice, koje iz Zagreba, nakon što ih je profesionalni put ovamo doveo, više nisu otišle. To su Rieka Suzuki iz Japana, Cristiana Rotolo iz Italije, Miruna Miciu iz Rumunjske i Natalia Horsnell iz Australije. The time around Christmas is a special time for Zagreb’s ballet scene because it’s then that Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky’s The Nutcracker is traditionally performed, a performance that many generations of future ballet fans grow up on. Except the ballet ensemble, in this ballet show you’ll also see four foreign ballet dancers that we talked to. After their career paths took them to Zagreb, they never left. They are Rieka Suzuki from Japan, Cristiana Rotolo from Italy, Miruna Miciu from Romania and Natalia Horsnell from Australia.

Miruna Miciu, Cristiana Rotolo Smrt u Veneciji / Death in Venice

Piše/By _ Ivan Salečić

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Rumunjske i Natalia Horsnell iz Australije. Četiri balerine, koje iz Zagreba, nakon što ih je profesionalni put ovamo doveo, više nisu otišle, podijelile su s nama svoje dojmove o životu u glavnom gradu i u Hrvatskoj te nas upoznale s nekim osobitostima zemlje iz koje dolaze.

Cristiana Rotolo, Italija, ansambl baleta - Kad sam stigla u Zagreb, jako sam se iznenadila, nisam očekivala da će Zagreb biti tako lijep. Od tada su prošle četiri godine. Zagreb mi je jako nalik Beču, oba grada imaju sličnu arhitekturu, s puno parkova i zelenila. Hrvatska me obala podsjeća na jug Italije, odakle potječem. Kad sam prvi put posjetila Dubrovnik i Split, osjećala sam se kao da sam se vratila kući. Hrvatska je vrlo raznolika u ljepoti i stilu. Miruna Miciu, Rumunjska, solistica baleta - U osam godina koliko sam ovdje mnogo se toga promijenilo − povećao se broj turista, posebno u vrijeme Božića ili ljeti. Tada se iznenadim gužvama na ulicama Zagreba, koje me ispunjavaju toplinom jer me podsjećaju na moj rodni Bukurešt. Kad sam u ledenoj zimi 2010. godine stigla ovamo na prvu audiciju za balet, bila sam iznenađena čistoćom i urednošću grada, ali tada još nije bilo kao danas i trebalo mi je vremena da se naučim na tišinu mjesta koje je ipak manje od onoga odakle dolazim. 01

01 Rieka Suzuki Gospoda Glembajevi / The Glembays 02 Cristiana Rotolo Apoksiomen / Apoxyomenos 03 Miruna Miciu Labuđe jezero / Swan Lake

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z standarde poput Labuđeg jezera u hitove sezone na zagrebačkoj baletnoj sceni ubrajaju se i Opasne veze prema književnom predlošku Choderlosa de Laclosa te Gospoda Glembajevi prema drami Miroslava Krleže, plesna adaptacija zacijelo najpoznatijega hrvatskog dramskog teksta. Premijere koje bude interes na zagrebačkoj sceni jesu balet Smrt u Veneciji, predstava nastala po književnom remek-djelu Thomasa Manna, na glazbu Gustava Mahlera i u koreografiji Valentine Turcu te Metropolis, prema remek-djelu filmskog noira redatelja Fritza Langa. U njima nastupaju i naše sugovornice Rieka Suzuki iz Japana, Cristiana Rotolo iz Italije, Miruna Miciu iz

Rieka Suzuki, Japan, prvakinja baleta - Čim sam stigla u Zagreb, zaljubila sam se u ovaj ljupki grad, njegovu bajkovitu arhitekturu i predivno cvijeće na svakom koraku. U to doba godine i vrijeme je bilo predivno pa nije čudo da sam grad istog trenutka zavoljela. To se nije promijenilo do danas, iako zbog količine posla u kazalištu nemam vremena da u njemu uživam koliko bih željela. Natalia Horsnell, Australija, prvakinja baleta - Prvi dojam bila je ljepota. Kad sam dolazila, nisam znala ništa, a u međuvremenu sam otkrila toliko toga, ne samo na obali nego i brda u unutrašnjosti, prijatelje te divna jela i pića.  Po čemu je Hrvatska posebna a po če mu slična društvu iz kojega potječete?

Fotografije/Photos _ Mara Bratoš, Marko Ercegović, Arhiva HNK / Croatian National Theatre Archives

 Kakvi su vam bili prvi dojmovi kad ste stigle u Hrvatsku? Kakvi su vam dojmovi danas?

Cristiana Rotolo - Kad je usporedim s Italijom, imam dojam da je Hrvatska sigurnije mjesto za život. Na primjer, nije me nimalo strah šetati sama Zagrebom u jedan ujutro, a to mi recimo u Rimu ili Milanu ne bi ni palo na pamet. Italija i Hrvatska zemlje su neizmjernoga povijesnog nasljeđa i dugih tradicija do kojih se drži. Za mene je to ljepota starih svjetova. Miruna Miciu - Živeći ovdje osam godina stekla sam vrlo različita iskustva. Hrvate općenito doživljavam kao vrlo ljubazne, posebno prema strancima. Imam dojam da im se ne žuri i to u pravilu rezultira boljom kvalitetom onoga što rade, ali ako ste vi u žurbi, to vas može iznervirati. Sviđa mi se slow food pokret koji sam ovdje otkrila, a i stil života koji uključuje mnogo vremena za sjedenje na gradskim terasama i ispijanje kave, koja je ovdje odlična. U Bukureštu je tempo puno brži, što vam štedi vrijeme, ali vas zakida za uživanje u malim stvarima. Rieka Suzuki - Dolazim iz Japana, tako da mislim da je jasno kako je u srednjoeuropskoj i mediteranskoj zemlji za mene ipak mnogo toga neobično i svaki je dan prožet novim otkrićima. Kultura u kojoj sam se formirala jako je različita − vidim razlike u mentalitetu, u kulturi rada i jedenja, pristupu obrazovanju, prometnim pravilima... zapravo u svemu. Natalia Horsnell - Moja Australija divan je kontintent, a sličnost i razlika tih dviju zemalja u prvom je redu u prirodnim ljepotama. Različite su u vrstama krajolika, a slične po tomu što i ovdje i ondje krajolici oduzimaju dah.

 Kako se dogodilo da ste ovdje ostale? Cristiana Rotolo - Ostala sam jer mi je ovdje super raditi. Predstave su nam rasprodane, imam dojam da u Hrvatskoj ljudi vole balet i kazalište općenito. Lijep mi je to osjećaj − da se ono što radiš prepoznaje i cijeni. Imam prilike za stjecanje mnogih iskustava, godišnje izvodimo puno predstava i kao balerina ovdje zbilja mogu stasati. Imam dojam da je danas teško doći do mlađe kazališne publike, a ovdje je to iz nekog razloga i dalje moguće. Miruna Miciu - Bilo mi je 19 godina kad sam se priključila Baletu HNK, prvoj sceni ove zemlje.

Činilo mi se da je preda mnom cijeli život i nisam planirala zadržati se više od godinu-dvije. No kako sam počela napredovati u ansamblu, odlučila sam ostati da vidim koliko daleko mogu stići. Nakon četiri godine u Zagrebu ozlijedila sam se i trebale su mi gotovo dvije godine da se vratim, ali kad sam napokon ponovno počela plesati, počele sam dobivati veće uloge i promaknuće. Trenutačno ni ne razmišljam o odlasku. Rieka Suzuki - Iako sam zavoljela ljude, grad i klimu, u mojem je slučaju razlog ostanka ipak ponajprije bio poslovne prirode. Dobila sam priliku plesati u ansamblu nacionalnoga kazališta, koju nisam željela propustiti. No

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osim te prilike važan mi je bio i dodatni motiv, činjenica da mi se repertoar baleta u Zagrebu zbilja sviđa. Mogu se s njime poistovjetiti, a kada i ne bih sudjelovala u tim predstavama, rado bih ih pogledala iz publike. Natalia Horsnell - Ovamo me dovela ljubav prema plesu, kao i otkriće da se ovdje razvija vrhunska plesna scena. Tu, međutim, nije bio kraj mojim ljubavima i otkrićima. Živeći u Hrvatskoj, otkrila sam i najčudesnijeg Hrvata, u kojeg sam se zaljubila. Prošlog smo se kolovoza vjenčali. Ovdje sam našla sve ono zbog čega sam ovamo i došla, a i više od toga.  Kad je riječ o urbanizmu ili prirodi, što biste preporučile putnicima kao nezaboravan doživljaj?

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Cristiana Rotolo - Za toplijeg vremena preporučila bih posjet dalmatinskim otocima kao što su Brač, Hvar, Vis i drugi te užitak u suncu i čistome moru. Miruna Miciu - Zbog prirode posla nemam baš puno vremena za putovanja. Kad i otputujem, na turneji sam s ansamblom ili su ljetni praznici, ali ni to ne potraje jer tada obično želim vidjeti obitelj i prijatelje u Rumunjskoj. Posjetila sam Dubrovnik, otoke Krk i Silbu te Split i svako od tih mjesta komadić je raja. Nevjerojatni pogledi, predivni ljudi i nezaboravne uspomene. Natalia Horsnell - Mnogo sam puta bila na Plitvičkim jezerima, a otkako sam ih prvi put posjetila, oduzimaju mi dah. Takvo mjesto možete vidjeti samo na filmu. Krajolik se drama-

tično mijenja s godišnjim dobima, a boja jezera i slapova je čudesna. Odvojite dan da ih posjetite.  Kakva vam je dnevna rutina ovdje? Cristiana Rotolo - Kad imam vremena za poslijepodnevni predah, odmaram se kod kuće sa svojom ljubimicom − mačkom. Navečer imam predstavu ili probe. U slobodno vrijeme volim kuhati ili izađem s prijateljima − često navečer odemo na naše uobičajeno mjesto gdje imaju izvrstan burger. Miruna Miciu - Nemam ovdje mnogo svakodnevnih običaja, ali prije važnih predstava volim otići na kavu u mali kafić u Masarykovoj ulici u Zagrebu koji ja zovem Cafe Julija jer sam ondje prvi put bila kada sam plesala Juliju

u Romeu i Juliji, svoju prvu glavnu ulogu. Od tada, kad god plešem veliku ulogu, odlazim onamo prije predstave pripremiti se uz šalicu ukusne kave. Volim to što u cijelom gradu uvijek ima mnoštvo malih koncerata i festivala, koji pridonose užitku življenja. Rieka Suzuki - Kako sam se već udomaćila u Zagrebu, ovdje imam i psića pa svako jutro idemo u šetnju odmah nakon što se probudimo. Slično je, naravno, i navečer. U međuvremenu volim kuhati i jesti, ali najviše vremena ipak provodim u kazalištu, plešući po cijele dane. No to je tipičan život balerine, nisam ni po čemu iznimka od mojih kolegica i kolega. Natalia Horsnell - Jutarnju kavu pijem vani, u kafiću, prije posla. Kad ovdje živite, zbilja to ima smisla.

 Imate li neko svoje tajno mjesto ili do gađaje koje posebno volite u Zagrebu? Cristiana Rotolo - Volim pratiti događanja u zagrebačkom kinu Europa, koje je sada i zaštićeno kulturno dobro. Osim filmskog programa ondje se odvijaju i festivali s predavanjima i razgovorima, predstavljanjima knjiga i filmova te koncerti. Osim toga, na jezeru Jarun svakog se ljeta organizira InMusic festival. Tamo sam zadnji put bila na koncertu benda Florence and The Machine. Miruna Miciu - Izdvojila bih Ljeto na Strossu, jazz i blues svirke uživo u vrućim ljetnim noćima, s prekrasnim pogledom na gradske krovove. Tog se pogleda ne mogu nauživati. Natalia Horsnell - Uvijek sam voljela Božić, a božićni sajam u Zagrebu nešto je što se drugdje 02

zaista teško može doživjeti. Cijeli je grad uređen, mnogo je mjesta na kojima se možete zadržati, gdje svira živa glazba koja pridonosi posebnom ugođaju.  Koji ste tipičan lokalni običaj otkrile živeći u Hrvatskoj i koji biste mogle preporučiti posjetiteljima? Cristiana Rotolo - To je svakako posjet zagrebačkoj tržnici Dolac, koja je otvorena svaki dan do 14 sati, i nabava lokalnih namirnica. Nedjeljom je tu i kava na sajmu antikviteta na Britanskome trgu. Miruna Miciu - Ne znam spada li to u običaje, ali mislim da bi svatko tko dolazi u Hrvatsku trebao probati hrvatsku kuhinju. Neka od jela, kao što su sarma, ćevapi, plodovi mora i fritule, neprestano donose susretanja različitih tradicija − mediteranske, orijentalne i srednjoeuropske te zaista rađaju okuse koje vrijedi doživjeti. Hrana je ovdje čudo. Rieka Suzuki - Otkrila sam gradske kafiće i život na ulici kad god to vrijeme omogućuje, pri čemu

01 Natalia Horsnell Smrt u Veneciji / Death in Venice 02 Natalia Horsnell Elizabeta Austrijska ∑ Sissi / Elisabeth of Austria ∑ Sissi 03 Natalia Horsnell Metropolis

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imam dojam da se i poslovni sastanci i privatna druženja vrlo lako prelijevaju jedni u druge. Granica je meka i čini mi se da je to više način života lokalnih ljudi nego turista. To je za mene u Hrvatskoj vrlo upečatljivo, dojam koji sam stekla odmah na početku i koji se nije promijenio. Natalia Horsnell - Otkrila sam ih mnogo − od jutarnje kave do večernje rakije. Dio zabave života u Hrvatskoj jest osjećaj trajne radoznalosti i mogućnosti da u svakome trenutku možete otkriti nešto novo.  Postoji li neka knjiga ili neki drugi izvor koji biste preporučile osobama koje dolaze u Hrvatsku da se dobro pripreme za posjet? Miruna Miciu - Sama sam došla u Hrvatsku kao u avanturu, bez mnogo priprema. Mogu

preporučiti vrlo zabavnu stranicu www.learncroatian.eu, na kojoj možete naučiti kako što reći na hrvatskome, ali i mnogo pojedinosti o zemlji. Natalia Horsnell - Onima koji dolaze u Hrvatsku preporučila bih da pokušaju naučiti poneku riječ hrvatskog jezika, ne samo zato što im to može biti korisno nego i zato što su Hrvatima jako simpatični stranci koji ne zaziru od toga da im se obrate na njihovu jeziku.  Kako gledate na ovdašnju kulturnu ponudu? Što biste od aktualnih zbi vanja predložile turistima − i lokalci ma − zainteresiranima za umjetnost i kulturu? Natalia Horsnell - Za mene je to, naravno, Hrvatsko narodno kazalište, zgrada izvanredne ljepote s  izvrsnim predstavama.

Natalia Horsnell, Rieka Suzuki, Miruna Miciu i Cristiana Rotolo podijelile su s nama svoje dojmove o životu u Zagrebu i Hrvatskoj te nas upoznale s nekim osobitostima zemalja iz koje dolaze. Natalia Horsnell, Rieka Suzuki, Miruna Miciu and Cristiana Rotolo shared with us their impressions of life in Zagreb and Croatia, and some interesting facts about the countries that they come from.

Metropolis

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Balerine presložene hr

n addition to standard ballet performances, such as Swan Lake, this season’s hits of the Zagreb ballet scene include the ballet adaptation of Choderlos de Laclos’s Dangerous Liaisons and that of Miroslav Krleža’s drama The Glembays (Gospoda Glembajevi), surely the most famous Croatian drama. The premieres that have generated interest with the Zagreb audience are Death in Venice, a ballet adaptation of Thomas Mann’s literary masterpiece, to the music of Gustav Mahler and choreographed by Valentina Turcu, and Metropolis, a ballet adaptation of director Fritz Lang’s film noir masterpiece. The four ballet dancers we talked to − namely, Rieka Suzuki from Japan, Cristiana Rotolo from Italy, Miruna Miciu from Romania and Natalia Horsnell from Australia − also perform in the said ballets. These four ballet dancers − who, after their career paths took them to Zagreb, never left − shared with us their impressions of life in the capital and Croatia, and some interesting facts about the countries that they come from.  What were your first impressions of Croatia when you first arrived? What are your impressions today? Cristiana Rotolo, Italy, ballet ensemble − When I arrived in Zagreb, I was very surprised, I didn’t expect Zagreb to be so

Smrt u Veneciji / Death in Venice

beautiful. It’s been four years since then. Zagreb reminds me of Vienna, the architecture of the two cities is similar, there are lots of parks and greenery. The Croatian coast reminds me of the south of Italy, where I come from. When I first visited Dubrovnik and Split, I felt like I was back home. Croatia is very diverse in terms of beauty and style. Miruna Miciu, Romania, soloist dancer − In the eight years that I’ve been in Croatia, a lot has changed − the number of tourists has increased, especially during the Christmas season and summer. During those times, I’m always surprised by the crowds in the streets of Zagreb, which make my heart warm because they remind me of my native Bucharest. When I first arrived in the ice-cold winter of 2010 for my first ballet audition, I was surprised by how neat and clean the city was, but Zagreb back then wasn’t like it is today, and it took me a long time to get used to the quiet of Zagreb which is smaller than the place I come from. Rieka Suzuki, Japan, principal dancer − As soon as I arrived in Zagreb, I fell in love with this lovely city, its fairy-tale-like architecture and beautiful flowers at every

turn. At that time of the year, the weather was amazing, so it doesn’t surprise me that I fell in love with the city immediately. This hasn’t changed to date, although due to the amount of time I spend at the theatre I haven’t got time to enjoy it as much as I would like to. Natalia Horsnell, Australia, principal dancer − My first impression was beauty. When I first arrived, I didn’t know anything, and in the meantime I’ve discovered so much, not only the coast but also the mountains in the inland, friends, and wonderful foods and drinks.  What makes Croatia special, and are there any similarities between Croatia and the country you come from? Cristiana Rotolo − When I compare Croatia to Italy, I have the impression that Croatia is a safer place to live. For example, I’m not at all scared to walk the streets of Zagreb at one o’clock in the morning, and that is something I wouldn’t even think of doing in, say, Rome or Milan. Also, the historical heritage of both Italy and Croatia is immense, and

both countries have long traditions which are upheld. For me, this is the beauty of the old worlds. Miruna Miciu − Having lived here for eight years, I’ve gained very different experiences. I generally see Croatians as very kind, especially towards foreigners. I have the impression that they don’t like to rush, and this, as a rule, results in the better quality of what they do. But if you’re in a hurry, this can surely upset you. I like the slow food movement I’ve discovered here, and a lifestyle that includes plenty of time for sitting on cafe terraces and drinking coffee, which is great here. In Bucharest, the pace is much faster, which saves you time, but it also denies you the chance to enjoy the little things. Rieka Suzuki − I come from Japan, so obviously there are many things that I find to be strange in Central European and Mediterranean countries, and each day I discover something new. The culture that shaped me is very different − I see differences in the mentality, work ethic and eating culture, approach to education, traffic rules... everything, in fact.

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Metropolis

Natalia Horsnell − My Australia is a wonderful continent, and as far as similarities and differences between the two countries are concerned, they both concern the two countries’ natural beauties. They are different in the types of landscapes, and are similar in that the landscapes both here and there are breath-taking.  What made you stay here? Cristiana Rotolo − I stayed because working here is great. Our shows are sold out, I have the impression that, in Croatia, people like ballet and the theatre in general. It’s a nice feeling − that what you do is recognised and appreciated. I’ve got plenty of opportunities to gain a lot of experience, we perform many shows a year, and I can really grow as a ballerina here. I have the impression that it’s difficult to reach a younger theatre audience today, and here this is still possible for some reason. Miruna Miciu − I was 19 years old when I joined the ballet ensemble of the Croatian National Theatre, Croatia’s leading ballet scene. At the time, it seemed to me that my entire life was ahead of me, and I didn’t plan on staying for more than a couple of years. But, as I started to advance in the ensemble, I decided to stay to see how far I could get. After four years in Zagreb, I was injured and it took me almost two years to recover,

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and when I finally started dancing again, I started to be cast in bigger roles and was promoted. I’m not even thinking about leaving now. Rieka Suzuki − Although I did grow very fond of the people, the city and the climate, in my case, I stayed primarily for professional reasons. I was given the opportunity to dance in the ensemble of the Croatian National Theatre, which I wasn’t going to pass up. But, besides this opportunity, there was an added incentive which was important to me, and this was the fact that I really like the ballet repertoire in Zagreb. I can identify with it, and even if I were not to dance in these shows, I’d very much enjoy watching them from the audience. Natalia Horsnell − What brought me here was my love of ballet, as well as the discovery that an amazing dance scene has been developing here. However, this wasn’t the end of my love and discovery. Living in Croatia, I met the most amazing Croatian man who I fell in love with. We got married last August. In Croatia I found everything I came here for, and much, much more.  When it comes to city life or nature, what would you recommend as an unforgettable experience to travellers? Cristiana Rotolo − When the weather is nice and warm, I’d recommend visiting Dalmatian islands,

such as Brač, Hvar, Vis and others, and enjoying the sun and the clean sea. Miruna Miciu − Because of the nature of the work I do, I haven’t got much time for travelling. When I do travel, I’m on tour with the ensemble or on my summer holidays, but they don’t last long, because that’s the time when I normally want to see my family and friends in Romania. I’ve been to Dubrovnik, the islands of Krk and Silba, and Split, and each of these places is a piece of paradise. Impressive views, wonderful people and unforgettable memories. Natalia Horsnell − I’ve been to the Plitvice Lakes many times, and since I first visited them, they’ve taken my breath away every time. It’s only in movies that you get to see such a place. The landscape changes dramatically with each season, and the colour of the lakes and the waterfalls is stunning. Take a day to visit them.  What’s your daily routine like? Cristiana Rotolo − When I’ve got time for an afternoon break, I’m at home resting with my pet − a cat. In the evenings, I either have a show or rehearsals. In my spare time, I like cooking or going out with friends, and in the eve-

nings, we often go to our favourite place that serves excellent burgers. Miruna Miciu − I don’t have much of a daily routine here, but just before important plays, I like to have a cup of coffee at a small cafe on Masarykova Street in Zagreb which I call cafe Julija, because that was the place that I first went to when I danced the role of Juliet in Romeo and Juliet, my first lead role. Since then, whenever I dance a major role, I go to that cafe before the show to prepare myself while sipping at their tasty coffee. I love the fact that there are always a number of small concerts and festivals in the whole city, which contribute to your enjoyment of life. Rieka Suzuki − As I’ve gotten used to living in Zagreb, I got myself a puppy, so every morning we go for a walk right after we wake up. Our evening routine is the same, of course. During the day, I like cooking and eating, but I spend most of my time at the theatre, dancing all day. But this is a ballerina’s typical daily routine, I’m no exception to my colleagues.

Natalia Horsnell − I have my morning coffee at a cafe before going to work. When you live here, that really does make sense.  Are there any secret places or events that you particularly like in Zagreb? Cristiana Rotolo − I like to follow what’s on at Zagreb’s Europa Cinema, which is now a protected cultural heritage site. Apart from film screenings, this is a venue where festivals with lectures and talks, book and film presentations, and concerts are held. Also, each summer, there’s the InMusic Festival at Jarun Lake, and the last time I went was to the concert of Florence and the Machine. Miruna Miciu − I’d single out Summer on Stross, live jazz and blues performances during hot summer nights, with a beautiful view of city rooftops. I can’t get enough of that view.

Natalia Horsnell − I’ve always loved Christmas, and the Christmas fair in Zagreb is something that’s really difficult to find elsewhere. The whole city is decorated, there are many places where you can stop and spend some time at, where live music is played, all contributing to a very special atmosphere.  Which typically local custom have you discovered while living in Croatia and what would you recommend to visitors? Cristiana Rotolo − This is definitely a visit to Zagreb’s Dolac Open Market, which is open every day until 2 pm, to buy local foods. On Sundays, it’s having a coffee at the antique and collectibles fair at the British Square. Miruna Miciu − I’m not sure if this is a custom, but I think that anyone coming to Croatia should try Croatian cuisine. Some of the dishes, such as sarma (meat-stuffed sauerkraut rolls), ćevapi (grilled, finger-sized minced meat kebabs), seafood and fritule (deep-fried

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Sve naše sugovornice ističu kako uživaju ne samo u svom poslu nego i u životu u Zagrebu, a mi se njihovim vrhunskim baletnim izvedbama divimo u Hrvatskom narodnom kazalištu. All our ballerina interviewees have highlighted that they enjoy not only their work, but also their lives in Zagreb, while what we enjoy are their top ballet performances at the Croatian National Theatre. sweet-dough fritters), are a fusion of different culinary traditions, the Mediterranean, Oriental and Central European, and this fusion creates flavours worth experiencing. Food is marvellous here. Rieka Suzuki − It would have to be city cafes and life on the streets whenever possible, where I have the impression that business meetings and private gatherings blend easily. The boundary is fluid, and it seems to me that this is a lifestyle of the locals rather than of tourists. This is what struck me most in Croatia, this was my very first impression which hasn’t changed to date.

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Natalia Horsnell − I’ve discovered many customs − from morning coffee to evening rakija (plum brandy). Part of the fun of life in Croatia is the feeling of constant curiosity and the chance to discover something new at any time.  Is there a book or some other source that you’d recommend to people coming to Croatia to prepare themselves for their visit? Miruna Miciu − I came to Croatia by myself, it was

almost an adventure, without much preparation. I can recommend www.learncroatian.eu, a very fun website, where you can learn how to say many things in Croatian, and which has much information about the country. Natalia Horsnell − To those who come to Croatia, I’d recommend trying to learn a word or two of Croatian, not only because it can be useful to them, but also because Croatians quite like foreigners who don’t shy away from talking to them in their language.  How do you see the local cultural offer? Which current cultural events would you recommend to both tourists and locals interested in arts and culture? Natalia Horsnell − For me, this is, of course, the Croatian National Theatre, an extraordinarily beautiful building, with great performances on  offer.

V. Skledar

Natalia Horsnell, Cristiana Rotolo, Rieka Suzuki, Miruna Miciu (slijeva nadesno / from left to right)

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MERIDIJANI MERIDIANS

Piše/By _ Ana Muhar

Fotografije/Photos _ Vanja Šolin

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Replika Kipa slobode na 8. aveniji A replica of the Statue of Liberty on 8th Avenue

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Dvorana VijeÄ&#x2021;a sigurnosti UN-a United Nations Security Council chamber

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Times Square

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Njujorška javna knjižnica The New York Public Library

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Broadway

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Pogled na Brooklynski most s promatraÄ?nice One World Observatory A view of the Brooklyn Bridge from the One World Observatory observation deck

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Muzej Guggenheim Guggenheim Museum

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Muzej Guggenheim, pogled prema staklenoj kupoli Guggenheim Museum, a view of its glass rooftop

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Gornja perspektiva - predvorje muzeja Guggenheim A birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s-eye view of the Guggenheim Museum entrance hall

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Pogled na Manhattan s promatraÄ?nice Observatory World One A view of Manhattan from the OWO observation deck

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01 Brooklynski most u zalazak sunca Brooklyn Bridge at sunset (Pebble Beach) 02 Oculus World Trade Center arhitekta Santiaga Calatrave The Oculus World Trade Center by architect Santiago Calatrava 03 Sve boje Times Squarea The colours of Times Square

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Od bezbrojnih značajki koje se pripisuju New Yorku fotogeničnost nitko ne može osporiti. Bilo da je slikan noću, kada Manhattan uzbudljivo zasvijetli, ili za vedrog dana, kada se vrhovi nebodera svjetlucaju na suncu, New York City uvijek je čaroban. Of the countless specificities attributed to New York, nobody can refute its photo-friendly quality. Regardless of whether it’s photographed at night when Manhattan lights up electrifyingly, or during a bright day when its skyscrapers glitter in the sunlight, New York City is always magical.

resvučen zimskim ogrtačem grad nadmašuje i sebe sama − tjedni koje okružuju Božić u New Yorku toliko su bajkoviti da putnici iz cijelog svijeta dolaze po svoj zalogaj blagdanskog ugođaja iz brojnih holivudskih klasika koje bez prigovora svaki put gledamo na malim ekranima. Kako najbolje provesti boravak u New Yorku zimi, pogotovo ako smo ograničeni manjkom vremena? Vjerujem da je to u pratnji prijatelja-lokalca koji će nas rukom pod ruku provesti po najboljim mjestima u gradu, malim tajnama koje stanovnici grada ljubomorno čuvaju kako ne bi došli u ruke sveprisutnih turista. Bilo da se radi o baru koji nudi najbolje koktele u gradu ili malo poznatom atmosferičnom pred-

građu, neke su stvari nepoznate i najbolje napisanim vodičima i otkrivaju se samo onima koji u gradu žive dovoljno dugo da steknu status Njujorčana. No kako mnogi nemaju prijatelje Njujorčane, za vas smo saslušali njihove prijedloge kako biste ove zime u New Yorku pronašli blagdanski ugođaj za pamćenje. Rockefeller Center Neka su mjesta s razlogom toliko popularna da ih nitko ne bio smio zaobići. Provjerite zašto božićnu jelku ispred Rockefeller Centra u središtu Manhattana svake godine posjeti više od 125 milijuna ljudi. Posjet nesumnjivo najspektakularnijoj božićnoj jelci na svijetu nije samo turistička atrakcija nego i njujorška tradicija

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koja seže do tridesetih godina prošlog stoljeća, kada su radnici odlučili skupiti novac za jelku kako bi unijeli malo ljepote u svoje živote i grad izmučen Velikom gospodarskom krizom. Jelka je s godinama postala veća − prošlogodišnji primjerak dosegnuo je gotovo trideset metara visine − i raskošnija, osvijetljena s čak pedeset tisuća LED svjetiljki. Njujorška konzultantica Ana Herrera Gonzales tvrdi da je posjet Rockefeller Centru, koji podrazumijeva razgledavanje jelke i klizanje, neprocjenjivo iskustvo unatoč velikoj gužvi. Ana savjetuje da se pričeka večer kako bi jelka zasjala u punoj raskoši. Izlozi Obilazak skupih butika ne mora vas skupo stajati. Agent za prodaju nekretnina Artem Lesin savjetuje obilazak najljepših izloga u gradu. Nedaleko od Rockefeller Centra, na Petoj aveniji i Aveniji Madison nalaze se neki od najbajkovitije uređenih izloga u gradu. Izlozi luksuznih robnih kuća Barney’s i Bergdorf Goodman ne smiju se propustiti, baš kao ni kultna njujorška draguljarnica Tiffany’s. Svojim maštovitim rješenjima svakog Božića iznenade i izlozi kuća Cartier i Hermès. Okusi zime Niti jedan posjet New Yorku ne može proći bez razmišljanja o hrani. Nije lako savjetovati o gastronomskoj ponudi grada jer svatko ima omiljeno mjesto za

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brunch, pizzu, sushi ili koktele. Sudeći po broju restorana i barova u gradu, to i ne čudi. Bankar Larry MacDonald tvrdi da je trenutačno najljepši bar u gradu Polo Bar Ralpha Laurena, a fotografkinja Marijana Marinović zimska jutra najradije provodi u kavani Tiffany Blue Box, gdje doručkuje uz pogled na Central Park. Njezin omiljeni restoran za ručak jest grčki Avra, a savjetuje da se petak navečer provede u peruanskom restoranu Baby Brasa, koji nudi živu glazbu i najbolji ceviche u gradu. Tijekom zimskih dana lijepo će vas ugrijati i povoljne korejske zalogajnice u dijelu Manhattana poznatome kao Koreatown koje nude najbolje raviole u gradu. Dizajnerica interijera Robin Barton savjetuje bar Cibar, u koji redovito odlazi po blagdansku atmosferu i sjajne koktele. Ako uspijete pronaći mjesto u restoranu Rolf’s, svakako otiđite na mjesto koje je postalo njujorški sinonim za božićni ugođaj. Robin savjetuje i posjet tvornici krafni Doughnut Plant na 23. ulici. Kada kušate selekciju njihovih svježih proizvoda, bit će vam jasnije zašto ispred naoko neugledne pekarnice uvijek nastaje gužva.

Hoteli Ako odsjedate u pomalo neuglednom ali povoljnom hotelu ili u iznajmljenom stanu, to nije razlog da ne posjetite najljepše gradske hotele koji u ovo doba godine prekrasno ukrašavaju svoje lobije. Jedno

Lincoln Center - Centar za izvedbene umjetnosti Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts

od najljepših hotelskih predvorja uoči Božića imaju New York Palace i Plaza. Ana Herrera savjetuje odlazak na večernje piće u Gramercy Park Hotel ili na ručak u Loews Regency, gdje se okupljaju lijepi ljudi iz elitnog susjedstva Upper East Side. Standard Hotel u Meatpacking Districtu ima sjajan bar sa sjajnim pogledom, a u ovo doba godine ispred hotela nalazi se malo ali šarmantno klizalište. Pogled New York je jedan od onih gradova koji vas poziva da se odmaknete ili popnete na visinu kako biste mu se divili odozgo. Mnogo je adresa na kojima to možete učiniti − vidikovac Rockefeller Centra i Empire State Buildinga najpoznatiji su − ali većina podrazumijeva skupe karte i duge redove. Ipak, jedan od najljepših pogleda na Manhattan može se doživjeti besplatno − s trajekta koji vozi na Staten Island. Otiđite na jug Manhattana i skočite na trajekt. Nije vam potrebna karta ni osobiti plan, samo pokušajte izbjeći vrijeme dana kada ljudi odlaze na posao i s njega se vraćaju, savjetuje Artem Lesin. Božićni shopping U naglašenom božićnom ugođaju teško ćete se oduprijeti želji da svoje najdraže

obradujete poklonom iz New Yorka. Artem Lesin savjetuje da nekoliko sati izdvojite za robnu kuću Century 21 na jugu Manhattana, tik uz Freedom Tower, gdje po povoljnim cijenama možete pronaći kvalitetne proizvode biranih robnih marki za cijelu obitelj. Marijana Marinović najradije poklanja knjige iz legendarne knjižare Strand, a Artem Lesin ženskom dijelu obitelji poklanja replike starog nakita iz muzejske trgovine muzeja Metropolitan. Investicijski bankar Jesse Schulman savjetuje posjet prodavaonici šešira JJ Hat Center, koji je poput vremeplova u daleku njujoršku prošlost. Bryant Park Winter Village odličan je za kupnju na otvorenome, a robna kuća Macy’s razveselit će najmlađe tradicionalnim gostovanjem Djeda Božićnjaka. I još… Veliki zaljubljenici u božićni ugođaj svakako bi trebali posjetiti Dyker Heights u Brooklynu, gdje se svakog prosinca odvija neslužbeni natječaj u ukrašavanju kuća u susjedstvu. Već trideset godina Njujorčani, uključujući Artema Lesina, odlaze u susjedstvo kako bi svjedočili božićnoj bajci na otvorenome koja je osobito čarobna uz  šalicu vruće čokolade.

overed in a winter coat, New York outclasses itself − the weeks around Christmas in New York are so magical that travellers from all over the world come to New York for their own bit of the holiday atmosphere that we’ve all watched in many Hollywood classics, which we don’t seem to mind watching over and over again on our television screens. What’s the best way to spend your time in New York City during winter, particularly if you’re limited with the amount of time you have? I believe that the best way is to be accompanied by a local friend who’ll take you, hand in hand, to the best places in town, the little secrets that New Yorkers guard jealously so that they wouldn’t fall into the hands of omnipresent tourists. Whether it’s a bar that serves the best cocktails in town or a lesser known yet highly atmospheric suburb, some things slip under the radar of even the best written guides, and are revealed only to those who’ve lived in the city long enough to acquire New Yorker status. But, as many have no friends living in New York, we’ve compiled New Yorker recommendations for you to find a holiday atmosphere to remember and take home with you from New York this winter.

Rockefeller Center Some places are so popular, and with good reason, that no one should miss seeing them. Make sure you check out why more than 125 million people go to see the Rockefeller Center Christmas tree in downtown Manhattan each year. Seeing the unquestionably most spectacular Christmas tree in the world isn’t just a tourist attraction, but also a New York tradition dating back to the thirties of the last century, when workers decided to collect donations for a Christmas tree to bring a bit of beauty to their lives and the city wearied by the Great Depression. Over the years, the Christmas tree has become taller and taller − last year’s tree was nearly thirty metres tall − and more and more lavishly decorated, illuminated by as many as fifty thousand Christmas LED lights. The New York-based consultant Ana Herrera Gonzales claims that visiting the Rockefeller Center, which includes checking out the Christmas tree and ice skating, is a priceless experience despite the large crowds. Ana’s advice is to wait for the evening for the splendour of the Christmas tree to fully come to the fore. Shopwindows Going window-shopping won’t cost you a lot. The real estate agent Artem Lesim recommends touring the most beautiful shopwindows in town. Not far from the Rockefeller Center, Fifth Avenue and Madison Avenue boast some of the most beautifully decorated shopwindows in town. The shopwindows of luxury department stores, such as Barney’s and Bergdorf Goodman, are an absolute must, as well as that of Tiffany’s, New York’s cult jewellery store. The Cartier and Hermès shopwindows are always a surprise with their imaginative Christmas decoration designs each year. The tastes of winter No visit to New York can go without thinking about what to eat. It’s no easy task to recommend what to eat in New York because everyone has their favourite brunch, pizza, sushi or cocktail place. Judging by the number of restaurants and bars in town, this comes as no surprise. The banker Larry MacDonald says that, at present, the most beautiful bar in town is The Polo Bar at Ralph Lauren’s, while the photographer Marijana Marinović likes spending her winter mornings at The Blue Box Cafe at Tiffany’s, where she has breakfast with a view of Central Park. Her favourite lunch restaurant is the Greek Avra, and she recommends spending Friday eve-

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Raskršće 7. avenije i ulice Broadway The junction of 7th Avenue and Broadway

treat your loved ones with a gift from New York. Artem Lesin recommends setting aside a few hours for the Century 21 department store in the south of Manhattan, right next to the Freedom Tower, where you’ll find quality select brands for the whole family at affordable prices. Marijana Marinović prefers to give books from the legendary Strand bookstore as presents, while Artem Lesin gifts replicas of old jewellery from the Met Store of the Metropolitan Museum to the women in his family. The investment banker Jesse Schulman recommends visiting the JJ Hat Center, which will, much like a time machine, take you back in time to New York’s distant past. Bryant Park Winter Village is great for outdoor shopping, and Macy’s department store is sure to cheer up the youngest with their Santa Claus.

nings at the Peruvian Baby Brasa restaurant which serves the best ceviche in town with live music performances. During the winter days, Korean restaurant delicacies at affordable prices will also keep you warm in Koreatown in Manhattan, offering the best ravioli in town. The interior designer Robin Barton recommends Cibar lounge bar, which she frequents regularly because of its holiday atmosphere and great cocktails. Should you manage to get a table at Rolf’s Restaurant, make sure you go as it’s become New York’s synonym for a Christmas atmosphere. Robin also recommends visiting the Doughnut Plant on 23rd Street. Once you taste a selection of their fresh products, you’ll come to understand why there’s always a queue outside this seemingly inconspicuous bakery. Hotels If you’re staying in an unpresentable yet affordable hotel or in a rented apartment, that’s no reason for you not to visit the most beautiful city hotels that decorate their lobbies most amazingly at this time of year. New York’s Palace and Plaza hotels have two of the most stunningly decorated hotel lobbies around Christmas. Ana

Herrera recommends going for an evening drink at the Gramercy Park Hotel or for lunch at Loews Regency, a place where the beautiful people from the elite neighbourhood of the Upper East Side gather. The Standard Hotel at Meatpacking District has a great bar with a great view, and during the holiday season there’s a small yet charming ice rink outside the hotel.

Not to be missed either... All those who love a true Christmas atmosphere should most definitely visit Dyker Heights in Brooklyn, where each December a competition of sorts takes place amongst the neighbours in decorating their houses for Christmas. For thirty years already, New Yorkers, including Artem Lesin, have been touring the neighbourhood to absorb some of this outdoor Christmas fairy tale, which is particularly magical while you’re sipping  at hot chocolate.

View New York is one of those cities that invite you to remove yourself from it or to climb up to a height so as to be able to admire it. There are many addresses which you can do this at − the observation decks of the Rockefeller Center and the Empire State Building are the best known ones − but most imply having to buy expensive tickets and long queues. However, one of the most beautiful views of Manhattan can be enjoyed for free − from a ferry to Staten Island. Get to the south of Manhattan and catch a ferry. You don’t need a map or an itinerary, just try to avoid the rush hour, Artem Lesin advises. Christmas shopping In an accentuated Christmas atmosphere, you’ll find it difficult to resist the desire to

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Discover the unforgettable Dubrovnik Riviera Visit the new gem, nested in a secluded bay, bathed in a crystal clear waters of the Adriatic. Plan your dream vacation at the spectacular South of Croatia in breathtaking venues. Further information at: +385 (0)20 601 500, sales@sheratondubrovnikriviera.com or visit www. sheratondubrovnikriviera.com

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REPORT

Proslavljena 40. godišnjica partnerstva obitelji Mamić i Rolexa The 40th anniversary of partnership between the Mamić family and Rolex celebrated

U sklopu svečane proslave održana je i svečana inauguracija velike izložbe Rolex Daytona. As part of the gala reception, the large Rolex Daytona exhibition was inaugurated.

bitelj Mamić, ponosni zastupnik Rolexa, proslavila je ove jeseni u hotelu Esplanade Zagreb velik jubilej, 40. godišnjicu partnerstva s Rolexom. U sklopu proslave održala se i svečana inauguracija velike izložbe Rolex Daytona, koja se prvi put organizirala u Hrvatskoj te daje cjelovit uvid u priču o ovome legendarnome kronografu. Večer za pamćenje, koja je organizirana za dugogodišnje klijente i poslovne partnere, okupila je uvažene goste iz gospodarskoga, kulturnoga, znanstvenoga i sportskog života. Među istaknutim gostima bila je i Njezina Ekscelencija Emilija Georgieva, veleposlanica Švicarske u Hrvatskoj, koja je istaknula kako joj je izrazito drago vidjeti uspješnu suradnju obitelji Mamić i Rolexa, okosnice švicarskoga gospodarstva, te nadodala kako oba poduzeća povezuje ista nit, a to je težnja izvrsnosti u svakom segmentu poslovanja. Uz poseban gastronomski doživljaj za koji je bila zadužena chefica Ana Grgić okupljeni su imali prilike uživati i u ambijentalnim zvukovima Vlahe Arbulića.

his autumn at the Esplanade Zagreb Hotel, the Mamić family, the proud representative of Rolex, celebrated the 40th anniversary of partnership with Rolex. As part of the gala reception, the large Rolex Daytona exhibition was inaugurated, an exhibition organised for the first time

01 Izložba Rolex Daytona prvi se put održala u Hrvatskoj The Rolex Daytona exhibition was held in Croatia for the first time 02 Obitelj Mamić, Stefano Erard iz Rolexa te veleposlanica Emilija Georgieva Regamey The Mamić family, Stefano Erard and H. E. Emilija Georgieva Regamey 01

03 Svečana proslava u hotelu Esplanade u Zagrebu Gala reception at the Esplanade Zagreb Hotel 04 Nj. E. Emilija Georgieva Regamey, veleposlanica Švicarske u Hrvatskoj H. E. the ambassador of Switzerland to Croatia 05 Gala večera za dugogodišnje klijente i partnere Gala reception for long-standing clients and business partners

in Croatia presenting the full story of this legendary chronograph. A night to remember, which was organised for long-standing clients and business partners, brought together distinguished guests from the spheres of business, culture, science and sports. Amongst the esteemed guests was H. E. Ms Emilija Georgieva, Ambassador of Switzerland to Croatia, who highlighted that she was very happy to witness the successful partnership between the Mamić family and Rolex, the backbone of the Swiss economy, and added that the thread that connects the two companies is their pursuit of excellence in all business segments. The guests were treated to a special culinary experience by chef Ana Grgić, accompanied by the ambient music of Vlaho Arbulić.

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Choose your path. Izaberite svoj put.

www.zagreb-airport.hr

MODA FASHION

Piše/By _ Dubravka Prpić Znaor Fotografija/Photography _ Franjo Matković

Kampanja studija Boudoir smješta romantičan dizajn u monokromatski okvir. Večernja kolekcija od svilenog organdija uveličat će posebno svečane trenutke. Boudoir’s campaign places their romantic design into a monochromatic frame. Their evening wear collection made of white silk organdie will make festive moments even more special.

oudoir, jedan od najpoznatijih hrvatskih modnih brendova, ističe se i inovativnim modnim kampanjama: vlasnice i sestre Morana Saračević i Martina Čičko Karapetrić svjesne su moći dobre fotografije. - U kampanjama naizmjence predstavljamo večernju i svakodnevnu liniju, a ponekad ih kombiniramo. Ovaj put snimali smo monokromatsku, večernju kolekciju od bijelog svilenog organdija namijenjenu mladenkama, no pritom nismo koristile rukopis tipičan za vjenčanice, već smo razvile novi, grafički snažan koncept. Zato smo kolekciju i nazvale Nacrtana, uz taj naš prepoznatljiv, amorfni stilski pečat Boudoira − ispričala nam je Martina. Vizuali imaju nezamjenjivu ulogu u njihovu

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radu i stavljaju ga u poseban okvir. Ovaj put i doslovno − na fotografijama našeg autora Franje Matkovića manekenka Lea Zeba (Talia model) smještena je u ogromne crne prozore. Styling, za koji je zaslužna Ana Nikačević, zaokružen je retro detaljima, derby šeširom (koji također potpisuje Boudoir) i lakiranim viktorijanskim čizmicama! - Naš brend nije trendovski orijentiran − nastavlja Martina − već se trudimo kreirati nešto što drugi nemaju ili ne nude. Naše klijentice znaju da će kod nas moći naći neobične, posebne i upečatljive komade koje mogu nositi svaki dan, kao i za posebne prilike. Boudoir djevojke i žene ne boje se isticati u masi, one žele biti drugačije i štosne! Kad smo započele s pret-a-porter kolekcijama, nismo ni slutile kakve ekstravagantne haljine žene žele nositi svakodnevno... To nam je iznimno drago i, naravno, velik poticaj u daljnjem radu. Kreativne sestre novu su kolekciju nedavno predstavile na Ljubljana Fashion Weeku. Često gostuju na stranim manifestacijama, a ponosne su i na titulu Europskih ambasadorica strukovnog obrazovanja i cjeloživotnog učenja, koju nose već treću  godinu zaredom.

oudoir, one of the most famous Croatian fashion brands, stands out not only with their design, but also with their innovative fashion campaigns. The owners, sisters Morana Saračević and Martina Čičko Karapetrić, are well aware of the power of good photography. − In our campaigns, we present our evening and day wear alternately, and sometimes we combine them. This time, we’ve

shot our monochromatic, evening collection made of white silk organdie designed for brides. But the signature we’ve used in our design isn’t one typical of wedding dresses. We’ve actually developed a new, graphically powerful concept. That’s why we call the collection Nacrtana (Drawn in translation), along our recognisable, amorphous Boudoir style − Martina told us. Visuals have an irreplaceable role in their work and place their work into a special frame. This time even literally − in the photographs shot by our photographer Franjo Matković, the model Lea Zeba (Talia Model) is placed into giant black window frames. Ana Nikačević’s styling has been rounded off with retro details, a derby hat (also signed by Boudoir) and lacquered Victorian boots. − Our brand is not trend-oriented. What we try to create is something that others don’t have or don’t offer. Our clients know that they’ll always find unusual, special and striking pieces of clothes that they can wear both every day and on special occasions. Boudoir girls and women aren’t afraid of standing out in a crowd, they want to be different and cute! When we first started with our pret-a-porter collections, we had no idea really that women wanted to wear extravagant day dresses... This is a great pleasure for us and, of course, great encouragement in our further work − Martina adds. The two creative sisters recently presented their collection at the Ljubljana Fashion Week. They often participate in international fashion events, and are proud of being European Ambassadors of Vocational Skills and Lifelong Learning, a title they’ve had  for the third year in a row.

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Asistent fotografa/Photography Assistant _ Senja Vild

Styling _ Ana Nikačević

Make-up _ Tena Bašić Hairstyle _ Katica Topčić za Kevin Murphy Model _ Lea Zeba (Talia Model)

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CÉLINE, BALENCIAGA, LOEWE, GUCCI, VALENTINO, SAINT LAURENT, GIVENCHY, CHLOÉ, STELLA MCCARTNEY, VITA KIN, MONCLER, MONCLER GAMME ROUGE, FALIERO SARTI, MAISON MICHEL, IVI JEWELRY, ACHERALI KNOFER, DELFINA DELETTREZ, GIANVITO ROSSI, LINDA FARROW LUXE, Maria Zagreb, Masarykova 8, 01-4811011 Maria Dubrovnik, Sv. Dominika bb, 020-321330 www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr instagram:mariastorehr

ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE

Zagreb

Zakoračite u novi svijet robota Step into a new world of robots Piše/By _ Nela Simić

Zakoračite u novi svijet, onaj emotivnih robota, hipnotičkih i senzualnih strojeva. Dođite u zagrebački Muzej suvremene umjetnosti na 6. Device_Art festival: Strojevi nisu sami. Velika međunarodna izložba na 1500 m2 prostora središnje je festivalsko događanje. Više od 20 umjetnika, među kojima su brojna velika imena novomedijske scene kao što su Ralf Baecker (Njemačka), Martin Howse (Velika Britanija), Ief Spincemaille (Belgija), Navid Navab (Kanada) i Wang Yuyang (Kina), u Zagrebu predstavljaju najbolje od svjetske suvremene

Zagreb ove zime postaje nezaobilazno mjesto na globalnoj karti suvremene umjetnosti. Za to je zaslužna velika izložba Strojevi nisu sami u sklopu 6. Device_Art festivala umjetnosti, robotike i novih tehnologija koji se održava u Muzeju suvremene umjetnosti od 18. prosinca 2018. do 3. veljače 2019. godine u organizaciji udruge KONTEJNER.

KONTEJNER

This winter, Zagreb has been put on the map of contemporary art. The reason for this is the great Machines Are Not Alone exhibition within the framework of the 6th Device_art Festival of art, robotics and new technologies held at Zagreb’s Museum of Contemporary Art from 18th December 2018 to 3rd February 2019 organised by the KONTEJNER group.

umjetnosti koja se bavi tehnologijom. Na izložbi sudjeluju i hrvatski umjetnici Silvio Vujičić, Mirjana Vodopija, Tin Dožić i Vladimir Novak, a veličinom produkcije ovogodišnje će se izdanje festivala uvrstiti među najveća događanja novomedijske umjetnosti u Hrvatskoj u posljednjih 10 godina. Izložba Strojevi nisu sami polazi od ideje da strojevi mogu biti proaktivna, razumna bića te da je tehnologija dio našega prirodnog okoliša, dio samog čovjeka − čak i nova vrsta života na zemlji. Ovaj futuristički svijet emotivnih robota i začudnih, senzualnih strojeva konceptualizirao je renomirani kinesko-američki kustos ZHANG Ga, autor jedne od najvećih novomedijskih izložbi u povijesti, Synthetic Times, koja je bila dio programa Olimpijskih igara u Pekingu. Uz veliku središnju izložbu festival nudi i brojne popratne sadržaje za sve uzraste poput diskurzivnih programa, gostovanja u Rijeci i Splitu, performansa uživo, koncerata, edukacija za umjetnike i građane te kino programa. Iz programa izdvajamo i predstavljanje golemog umjetničkog projekta njemačko-australskog dua Hochschuh-Donovan pod nazivom Em-

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KONTEJNER

V. Metelko M. Kramar

(Belgium), Navid Navab (Canada) and Wang Yuyang (China) − are presenting in Zagreb the best works of the world’s contemporary art scene involving technology. Croatian artists Silvio Vujičić, Mirjana Vodopija, Tin Dožić and Vladimir Novak are also presenting their work at the exhibition. Given the size of production of this year’s edition of the festival, the 6th Device_art Festival is one of the biggest new media art events in Croatia to have been mounted in the past 10 years. The Machines Are Not Alone exhibition sets forth from the idea that machines can be proactive, intelligent beings, and that technology is part of our natural environment, part of man himself − even a new kind of life on earth. This futuristic world of emotional robots and astounding, sensual machines was conceptualised by the renowned Chinese-American curator, ZHANG Ga, the author of one of the biggest new media art exhibitions in history,

01 Izložba Device_art 2009, Zagreb Device_art 2009 exhibition, Zagreb 02 Performans Inferno / Inferno Performance, Bill Vorn & Louis Philippe Demers (Kanada / Canada) Device_art festival 2015, Zagreb 03 Izložba Device_art 2012, Zagreb Device_art 2012 exhibition, Zagreb 04 Koncert japanske skupine Maywa Denki u Zagrebu, festival Device_art 2009. The concert of the Japanese band Maywa Denki in Zagreb, Device_art 2009 festival

pathy Swarm. Ovaj roj interaktivnih robota koji reagiraju na ljudske emocije izrađen je upravo u Zagrebu i uz KONTEJNERovu produkcijsku podršku. Detaljan program festivala dostupan je na www.kontejner.org. Step into a new world of emotional robots, hypnotic devices and sensual machines. Visit the 6th Device_art Festival: Machines Are Not Alone exhibition at Zagreb’s Museum of Contemporary Art. A large international exhibition mounted over 1500 m2 of space is the central event of the festival. Over 20 artists − including many renowned names on the new media art scene, such as Ralf Baecker (Germany), Martin Howse (the UK), Ief Spincemaille

Synthetic Times, which was part of the Beijing Olympic Games programme. Besides the said central exhibition, the festival is also bringing numerous accompanying programmes for all ages, such as talks and discussions, guest performances in Rijeka and Split, live performances, concerts, training courses for both artists and laymen, and a movie programme. A presentation of the massive Empathy Swarm art project by the German-Australian duo Hochschuh-Donovan is to be singled out. Their swarm of interactive robots that respond to human emotions was created precisely in Zagreb, whose production was supported by the KONTEJNER group. A detailed programme of the festival is available at www.kontejner.org.

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Zagreb

Festival svjetla Zagreb Festival of Lights Zagreb Fotografije/Photos _ M. Mihaljević

Art, design, spectacle, entertainment, architecture − all this is the Festival of Lights Zagreb. A festival of good emotions and

beautiful scenes because of which the world around us is completely different, more colourful and more shining, at least for a moment. What is life without the art of light, a new discipline of art that left the space of museums and got out into the streets and amongst people? Artists of light use the city,

Piše/By _ TZ grada Zagreba/Zagreb Tourist Board

Umjetnost, dizajn, spektakl, zabava, arhitektura, sve je to Festival svjetla Zagreb. Festival dobrih emocija i lijepih prizora zbog kojeg je svijet oko nas barem na trenutak potpuno drugačiji, šareniji, blještaviji. Što je život bez umjetnosti svjetla, nove umjetničke discipline koja je iz muzejskih prostora izašla van, na ulicu, među ljude? Umjetnici svjetla upotrebljavaju grad kao slikarsko platno, njegove zgrade i spomenike, njegovo noćno nebo, njegova šetališta i trgove. U sve više gradova diljem svijeta festivali svjetla postali su tradicija. Kreativni majstori podarili su nov život znanim gradskim simbolima zaodjenuvši ih u živopisne boje. I u svojem će trećem izdanju Festival svjetla Zagreb u ožujku, u povijesnoj jezgri glavnoga grada, ujediniti najmodernija svjetlosna rješenja na temelju recentnih rasvjetnih tehnologija. Tako će se s pomo-

ću privremenih umjetničkih instalacija kroz medij svjetla, ali i zvuka, dodatno naglasiti zanimljive lokacije Zagreba te u prvi plan staviti zaboravljene lokacije ili one s iznimnim potencijalom. Zagrebački Festival svjetla događaj je koji najavljuje proljeće i poziva na uživanje na otvorenome u inovativnoj umjetnosti i čaroliji svjetla, zvuka i nesvakidašnjih instalacija. Valja dodati kako je ovim festivalom Zagreb postao dio velike obitelji Berlinske udruge Festivala svjetla, što ga stavlja rame uz rame s nekoliko većih europskih središta. Posjetite Festival svjetla Zagreb i dočekajte proljeće u najljepšem svjetlu!

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WHERE AM BITION LIV ES

Undergraduate Programs 240 ECTS

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Graduate Programs 60 ECTS and the magic of light, sound and unusual installations. It should be added that, with this festival, Zagreb has become part of the great family of the Berlin Association of Festivals of Lights, which has placed Zagreb shoulder to shoulder with several major European centres. Visit the Festival of Lights in Zagreb and welcome spring in a most beautiful light!

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its buildings and monuments, its night sky, its promenades and squares as a canvas. In many cities around the world, festivals of light have already become a tradition. Creative masters breathe new life into the city’s well-known symbols, draping them in vibrant colours. In the historic city centre of the capital, the third edition of Zagreb’s Festival of Lights will, in March 2019, again present the most modern lighting solutions based on recent lighting technologies. With the help of temporary art installations through the medium of light as well as sound, Zagreb’s interesting locations will be highlighted additionally, and some forgotten locations or those with extraordinary potential will be brought to the fore. Zagreb’s Festival of Lights is an event that ushers in the spring and invites you to start enjoying the outdoors through innovative art

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Zagreb

2019 Audi FIS Alpine Ski World Cup Snow Queen Trophy − Zagreb/Sljeme 01

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Traditionally opening each calendar year of the Audi FIS Alpine Ski World Cup on Zagreb’s Sljeme Mountain, the 2019 Snow Queen Trophy ski spectacle will this year again gather the best world slalom skiers. This sports event brings two Audi FIS Alpine Ski World Cup races: the women’s race on Saturday, 5th January and the men’s race on Sunday, 6th January. 02

01 Gledatelji u ciljnoj areni Spectators at the finishing line 02 Janica Kostelić uručuje krunu pobjedniku Marcelu Hirscheru Janica Kostelić crowning the winner, Marcel Hirscher

The public draw for both ski events will be held on the eve of the two races, on 4th and 5th January, at the Ice Park ice rink at King Tomislav Square in the city centre of Zagreb. The Sljeme races will host 150 world skiers, as well as over 400 ski coaching team members from around 25 countries coming from four continents. Each season the races are watched by over 300 million viewers in over 50 countries worldwide. The brilliant organisation of the Snow Queen Trophy ski races and the even more brilliant atmosphere on Sljeme Mountain have ranked Zagreb amongst the grandest ski resorts in the world − alongside Val Gardena, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Kitzbühel, Wengen and Val d’Isère. In addition, the

03 Na pobjedničkom postolju/ On the winners’ podium: Wendy Holdener, Mikaela Shiffrin (pobjednica/ the winner) i/and Frida Hansdotter

Sljeme slalom races are a member of the Club 5 Ski Classics, a union of leading alpine ski race organisers. The International Ski Federation has included the Snow Queen Trophy races in its calendar of events until 2022, thus confirming their great reliance on the Croatian Ski Association. So make sure you’re part of the Snow Queen Trophy atmosphere which has already put Zagreb and Croatia on the world ski and tourist map. www.snowqueentrophy.com

Piše/By _ Hrvatski skijaški savez/Croatian Ski Association; Fotografije/Photos _ Hrvatski skijaški savez, Goran Razić

Skijaški spektakl Snow Queen Trophy i ovaj će put okupiti najbolje svjetske slalomašice i slalomaše, koji će 2019. godinu već tradicionalno započeti na zagrebačkom Sljemenu. Ova će sportska manifestacija ponovno objediniti dvije utrke Audi FIS Svjetskoga skijaškog kupa: žensku utrku u subotu, 5. siječnja, te mušku utrku u nedjelju, 6. siječnja. Na dane prije obiju utrka, 4. i 5. siječnja, u Ledenom parku na Tomislavovu trgu u centru Zagreba održat će se javno izvlačenje startnih brojeva natjecatelja. Sljemenske utrke ugostit će 150 svjetskih skijaša i skijašica te više od 400 članova reprezentacija iz oko 25 zemalja s četiriju svjetskih kontinenata. Svake sezone televizijski prijenos utrke prati više od 300 milijuna gledatelja u više od 50 zemalja svijeta. Vrhunska organizacija utrka Snow Queen Trophy i sjajna sljemenska atmosfera svrstale su Zagreb uz bok najuglednijim svjetskim skijalištima − Val Gardeni, Garmisch-Partenkirchenu, Kitzbühelu, Wengenu i Val d’Isereu. Usto, sljemenske su utrke uvrštene u Club 5+ Ski Classics, odnosno klub najboljih tradicionalnih organizatora utrka Svjetskoga kupa. Međunarodna skijaška federacija uvrstila je Snow Queen Trophy u kalendarski raspored do 2022. godine potvrđujući na taj način veliko povjerenje Hrvatskom skijaškom savezu. Ne propustite biti dio još jednog izdanja utrka Snow Queen Trophy, koje će još snažnije pozicionirati Zagreb i Hrvatsku na svjetskoj skijaškoj i turističkoj karti.

Pametniji način plaćanja. Uvijek i svugdje. Kad su putovanja u pitanju, nije važno kamo se putuje. Važno je da se putuje. I važno je s kojim karticama putujete. Zatražite paket kartica Diners Club Croatia Airlines i Visa Croatia Airlines. Isprobajte i ECC Mobile - praktičnu i svestranu mobilnu aplikaciju kojom možete upravljati svojim troškovima, preskočiti ratu ili platiti sve rate odjednom. Više na www.estecardclub.hr.

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Zagreb

Zagreb Advent Run Piše/By _ Božo Skoko

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svojem atraktivnom šarenilu koje privlači mnogobrojnu publiku jer se natjecatelji maskiraju u božićne likove iz bajki. Zato je ova neobična adventska utrka privukla profesionalce, ali i sve koji su željeli osjetiti taj jedinstveni sportski doživljaj čarobnoga zagrebačkog Adventa. In recent years, running has become not only an extremely popular sport in Croatia, but also a lifestyle. It comes as no surprise then that, as of last year, Advent in Zagreb has become richer for yet another exceptional event − the Zagreb Advent Run. This is a fun race, which takes place in the Christmas-decorated city centre of Zagreb. The residents of Zagreb and their guests can partake in either a 5- or a 10-kilometre race, and if they find running to be too strenuous, they can always opt for Nordic walking. All who reach the finishing line are winners because what this event does is promote the holiday spirit of togetherness and a healthy lifestyle when all those Christmas delicacies are savoured (often excessively). This year’s race was devoted to raising awareness about the importance of being physically active throughout the year in general, and to addressing the growing challenges of diabetes in particular. Accordingly, part of the funds collected from the race were donated to the Croatian Union of Diabetes Associations in support of the many programmes the union has been carrying out. Tourists from as many as twenty-five countries of the world spending their Christmas holidays in the Croatian capital partook in the race. This exceptional

01 Zagreb Advent Run postao je prepoznatljiv događaj zahvaljujući atraktivnom šarenilu koje privlači mnogobrojnu publiku The Zagreb Advent Run has become a recognisable event thanks to its colourful visual appeal attracting a large audience 02 Natjecatelji se maskiraju u božićne likove iz bajki The contestants dress up as various Christmas story characters

project was organised by Run Croatia and Millenium Promocija, a Croatian public relations agency, co-organised by the City of Zagreb, and endorsed by the Zagreb Tourist Board and Croatia Airlines. The Zagreb Advent Run is a recognisable advent event also thanks to its colourful visual appeal attracting a large audience, given that its contestants dress up as various Christmas story characters. This is why this unusual advent race attracted not only professional athletes, but also all who were looking to take in this unique sporting atmosphere of Zagreb’s magical Advent.

Fotografije/Photos _ Zagreb Advent Run

Posljednjih godina trčanje je postalo ne samo iznimno popularan sport nego sve više i način života u Hrvatskoj. Stoga ne čudi što je Advent u Zagrebu od prošle godine bogatiji za još jednu iznimnu manifestaciju − Zagreb Advent Run. Riječ je o veseloj utrci koja se održava u ukrašenome središtu grada. Zagrepčani i njihovi gosti trče na 5 ili 10 kilometara, a ako im se trčanje čini napornim, mogu i hodati u nordijskom stilu. Svi koji stignu do cilja pobjednici su jer se ovom manifestacijom promiče blagdanski duh zajedništva i zdrav život u vrijeme (često prekomjernoga) uživanja u blagdanskim delicijama. Ovogodišnja utrka bila je posvećena podizanju svijesti o važnosti tjelesne aktivnosti tijekom cijele godine, a posebice kako bi se uputilo na sve veće izazove dijabetesa. Stoga je i dio sredstava prikupljenih od utrke doniran Hrvatskom savezu dijabetičkih udruga kao potpora mnogobrojnim programima koje provodi. Među sudionicima utrke bili su i turisti iz čak dvadeset pet država svijeta koji blagdansko vrijeme provode u hrvatskoj metropoli. Organizatori utrke su Run Croatia i hrvatska agencija za odnose s javnošću Millenium promocija, suorganizator je Grad Zagreb, a potporu je projektu pružila i Turistička zajednica Grada Zagreba. Croatia Airlines također je podržao ovaj iznimni projekt. Zagreb Advent Run postao je prepoznatljiv adventski događaj zahvaljujući i

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Zaprešić

Adventsko svjetlo dvorca Lužnica The Advent lights of the Lužnica Castle Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos s. Berislava Grabovac

Dvorac Lužnica jedan je od najslikovitijih dvoraca sjeverozapadne Hrvatske, izgrađen sredinom 18. stoljeća. Nalazi se dvadesetak kilometara zapadno od Zagreba, u neposrednoj blizini grada Zaprešića. Potreba da se s vremenom lijepi i atraktivni dvorac otvori javnosti dovela je sestre do njemačke katoličke zaklade Renovabis, uz čiju je pomoć kompleks obnovljen, a izgrađena je i pomoćna zgrada za smještaj sestara i gostiju. Dvorac je 2007. godine otvorio vrata javnosti kroz različite programe i djeluje kao Duhovnoobrazovni centar Marijin dvor, Lužnica. Barokno, dobro očuvano zdanje dvorca svojom pojavom poziva na povratak u prošlost i na istraživanje načina života ljudi tijekom minulih stoljeća. Dvorac je bio sjedište plemićke obitelji Rauch, koja je u njemu stolovala dva stoljeća, sve do smrti zadnjeg vlasnika, čiji su nasljednici imanje dali na prodaju 1924. godine. Družba sestara milosrdnica kupila je dvorac kako bi dobila prikladno mjesto za smještaj velikog broja starih i bolesnih sestara. Iščekivanjem proslave Kristova rođenja, Božića, vrijeme adventa obilježeno je simbolikom svjetla jer Krist u naše zemaljske tmine dolazi kao Svjetlost. Ta simbolika nadahnula je sestre da jednom u godini, 13. prosinca, na blagdan svetice svjetla, svete Lucije, dvorac osvijetle samo svjetlom svijeća i svjetiljki. Dojmljiv ugođaj treperavog svjetla svijeća pod starim svodovima dvorca djeluje smirujuće, otkriva potpuno novu ljepotu baroknog prostora, vraća nas na bitno i priprema srca za živu Svjetlost Božića.

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Built in the mid-18th century, the Lužnica Castle is one of the most picturesque castles of north-western Croatia. It’s about twenty kilometres to the west of Zagreb, in the immediate vicinity of the town of Zaprešić. The need to have this beautiful and picturesque castle open to the public led the sisters to the German Catholic Renovabis Foundation, with whose help the castle complex was renovated and an auxiliary building for the accommodation of sisters and guests was built. In 2007, the castle opened its doors to the public by organising various programmes, and operates as the Mary’s Court Spiritual Educational Centre in Lužnica. The very appearance of this baroque, well-preserved castle edifice invites you back to the past to explore the lifestyle of people from past centuries. The castle was the seat of the noble Rauch family, who had lived in it for two centuries until the last owner passed away, whose successors sold the estate in 1924. It was bought by the Sisters of Charity of St. Vincent de Paul as an ideal place for the accommodation of a larger number of old and sickly sisters. In looking forward to celebrating the birth of Christ, Christmas, the time of Advent is marked by the symbol of light, for Christ arrives into our earthly darkness as Light. This very symbolism inspired the sisters to illuminate the castle once a year only with the light of candles and lamps, and this on 13th December on the Feast of Saint Lucia. The impressive atmosphere created by the flickering of candles under the old vaults of the castle is calming, revealing the beauty

Dvorac je 2007. godine otvorio vrata javnosti kroz različite programe i djeluje kao Duhovno-obrazovni centar Marijin dvor, Lužnica In 2007, the castle opened its doors to the public by organising various programmes, and operates as the Mary’s Court Spiritual Educational Centre in Lužnica

of this baroque edifice in a completely new light, invites us to turn to our essence, and prepares our hearts for the arrival of the living Light of Christmas.

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Pula

Muzej dobrih uspomena Museum of Good Memories Piše/By _ Petra Klunić Zoričić Fotografije/Photos _ Patrik Zubaj 01

Memo Museum Pula − Muzej dobrih uspomena svoja je vrata posjetiteljima otvorio 2018. godine, a u povodu blagdana posjetitelje muzeja očekuju prigodna događanja koja će obogatiti zimsku turističku ponudu grada Pule te posjeti djece za koje će se organizirati radionice i vođenja. Ovaj interaktivni i multimedijski muzej dio je djelatnosti kulturno-obrazovne udruge Institut Mediterran i prostire se na otprilike 200 kvadratnih metara. Muzej je prikaz svakodnevnog života tipične pulske radničke obitelji, a fokusira se na razdoblje od pedesetih do kraja osamdesetih godina 20. stoljeća. Muzej kroz tri cjeline (ulicu, trg i stan) posjetiteljima približava kako su izgledali djetinjstvo i mladost starijih naraštaja stanovnika Pule. Kroz šetnju uz dobro poznate eksponate poput staroga žutog Fiće, crno-bijele televizije, gramofona, starih računala, pisaćih i šivaćih mašina, haube za kosu, posjetitelji su pozvani na interakciju s predmetima kako bi zaista osjetili duh minulih vremena. Posebnost ovog muzeja jest u tome što, za razliku od klasičnih postava u muzejima, posjetitelji smiju te ih se čak i potiče na to da otvaraju ladice i ormare, isprobavaju odjeću, fotografiraju se ispod haube, zaigraju košarku ili neku od starih igrica, sjednu za volan Fiće ili na motocikl Tomos automatik... Naime, namjena muzeja nije samo da se posjetitelji koji su to već proživjeli podsjete na dio svoje (i pulske) prošlosti nego da se i mlađim naraštajima pokaže kako je izgledala mladost njihovih roditelja, djedova i baka.

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Pula’s Memo Museum of Good Memories opened its doors in 2018, and during the festive season festive events and programmes are staged enriching the tourist offer of the city of Pula during the winter season, with workshops and guided tours organised for children. This interactive and multimedia museum is part of the culture and education association called the Mediterran Institute and stretches across approximately 200 square metres. The museum exhibits everyday life set-ups typical of a working family from Pula, focusing on the period from the 1950s to the end of the 1980s. Through three sections (street life, square life, and home life), the museum shows what the childhood and youth life of the older generations of the residents of Pula looked like. While walking past widely known exhibits − such as an old yellow Zastava 750 car widely known in the former state by its nickname Fićo (a version of the Fiat 600), a black and white TV set, a record player, old computers, typewriters and sewing machines, hard hat hair dryers − visitors are invited to interact with the objects displayed to truly feel the spirit of old times. What makes this

01 Glazbeni kutak, mini gramofon Music corner, a mini record player 02 Život na ulici, Fićo (Zastava 650) Street life, Fićo (Zastava 650) 03 Život svakodnevice, trgovačka kasa Everyday life, cashier machine

museum special is that, unlike standard museum displays, visitors not only can, but are encouraged to, for example, open drawers and cabinets, try on clothes, take pictures under a hard hat hair dryer, play basketball or some of the old games, sit behind the wheel of the Fićo car or a Tomos automatic moped... In other words, the intention of the museum is not only to remind visitors who lived at the time of a part of their (and Pula’s) past, but also to show younger generations what the years of youth of their parents and grandparents looked like.

www.ing-grad.hr / tel.: +385 1 3033 001

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Prosinac December Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings Izložba − Vladimir Becić Exhibition − Vladimir Becić

6. 12. 2018. − 10. 3. 2019.

Galerija Klovićevi dvori predstavlja retrospektivnu izložbu slikara Vladimira Becića, jednoga od najznačajnijih slikara hrvatske moderne umjetnosti. U atraktivnom likovnom postavu predstavljena su djela izložena nakon više od trideset godina. The Klovićevi Dvori Gallery is staging a retrospective exhibition of the work of painter Vladimir Becić, one of the most important painters of Croatian modern art. The attractive exhibition setup is bringing works that haven’t been exhibited for over thirty years. www.gkd.hr

Izložba − Nikola Mašić Exhibition − Nikola Mašić

11. 12. 2018. − 10. 2. 2019. Moderna galerija predstavlja cjeloviti opus Nikole Mašića, začetnika hrvatskog modernog pejzažnog slikarstva i prvoga hrvatskog animalističkog slikara.

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Uz umjetnikove najpoznatije žanrovske kompozicije tzv. uljepšanog realizma naglasak je na radovima iz 1870-ih i 1880-ih koje je Mašić stvarao za vrijeme povremenih putovanja Posavinom i boravka u južnoj Italiji. The Modern Gallery is exhibiting the oeuvre of Nikola Mašić, the father of Croatia’s modern landscape painting and the first Croatian animalist painter. In addition to Mašić’s most famous genre compositions of so-called embellished realism, the exhibition focuses on his works from the 1870s and 1880s which he painted during his occasional journeys through Posavina and his stays in the south of Italy. www.moderna-galerija.hr

Marija Bistrica − doček nove godine u podne Marija Bistrica − A New Year’s Eve party at midday

31. 12. 2018. U slikovitome mjestu u kojem se nalazi naše najpoznatije mari-

jansko svetište svake se godine održava podnevni doček nove godine. Ako u istom danu želite dvaput dočekati novu godinu, svakako dođite. In Marija Bistrica, a picturesque town where Croatia’s most famous shrine of St. Mary is located, a midday New Year’s Eve party is held. If two New Year’s Eve parties are what you’re looking for, be sure to come.

podne u Fužinama, živopisnome mjestašcu u središtu Gorskoga kotara. Gastonomska ponuda, glazbeni sastavi i vatromet jamče vam nezaboravan doček. This is an original midday New Year’s Eve party held in Fužine, a picturesque town in central Gorski Kotar. The offer of food, live music performances and fireworks are bound to create an unforgettable New Year’s Eve party.

www.tz-marija-bistrica.hr

www.tz-fuzine.hr

Rijeka i okolica Rijeka and surroundings Fužine − doček nove godine u podne Fužine − A New Year’s Eve party at midday

31. 12. 2018. Riječ je o originalnoj manifestaciji ispraćaja stare i dočeka nove godine na Silvestrovo točno u

Siječanj January Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings Snow Queen Trophy 2019

5. & 6. 1. 2019., Zagreb Na atraktivnim utrkama na zagrebačkome Sljemenu sudjeluju najbolji slalomaši iz cijeloga svijeta. U ovo već tradicionalno događanje uključuje se i publika iz središta grada. Očekuje vas dobra zabava i gastronomska ponuda na Sljemenu i u središtu grada. These are attractive ski races on Zagreb’s Sljeme participated in

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by the best slalom skiers from all over the world, cheered on by a large audience both on Sljeme and in the city centre. These sports events are rounded off by a brilliant entertainment programme and an offer of foods and drinks on both Sljeme and in Zagreb’s city centre. www.snowqueentrophy.com

Advent u Zagrebu Advent in Zagreb do / until 6. 1. 2019. U Zagrebu vas i tijekom ovogodišnjeg adventa očekuje izuzetno bogat program s nizom novih sadržaja poput Adventa u Maksimiru, zabave za cijelu obitelj u suradnji sa Zoološkim vrtom, Adventa Stara Tkalča, gdje će biti prikazani tradicionalni obrti, i Filmskog Adventa u kinu Europa. This year’s Advent in Zagreb is yet again bringing an extremely rich entertainment programme with a whole host of new locations, such as Advent in Maksimir, a family-friendly programme in collaboration with the Zagreb Zoo, Advent in Old Tkalčićeva Street, where traditional crafts are taking centre stage, and a Film Advent in Europa Cinema.

luju mnogi hrvatski gradovi i više od 230 muzeja, galerija i ostalih kulturnih ustanova. Ovogodišnja tema je Muzeji − inovacije i digitalna budućnost. Many Croatian cities and over 230 museums, galleries and other cultural institutions are participating in this year’s, 14th Museum Night, whose central theme is Museums − Innovations and Digital Future.

www.facebook.com/ARTentainment

The Salaj Family’s Christmas

www.ulaznice.hr

Story

do / until 13. 1. 2019. Grabovnica pokraj Čazme / Grabovnica near Čazma I ove će godine sedamnaesti put imanje biti okićeno milijunima maštovitih lampica, a očekuje vas i gastronomska ponuda. For the 17th year in a row, the Salaj Family Farm will this year again be decorated with millions of Christmas lights, with foods and drinks on offer as well. www.salajland.com

Rijeka i okolica Rijeka and surroundings

Rijeka Carnival

2019 Museum Night

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Jedna od najpoznatijih ljubavnih priča doživjela je mnoge verzije, no ova predstava, koja će se održati u KD Vatroslava Lisinskog, drugačija je. Riječ je o baletnom uprizorenju temeljenome na Shakespeareovu djelu uz glazbu popularnog britanskog benda Radiohead. Djelo je to svjetski priznatog koreografa Edwarda Cluga, a u ulozi Romea jedan je od najpoznatijih predstavnika svjetske baletne scene Denis Matvienko. One of the most famous love stories ever told has seen many different adaptations, but the one to take place in the Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall is truly different. It is a ballet rendition based on Shakespeare’s play set to the music of the popular British band, Radiohead. The spectacle is choreographed by the internationally acclaimed choreographer, Edward Clug, with the role of Romeo danced by one of the most famous ballet dancers in the world, Denis Matvienko.

Božićna priča obitelji Salaj

Riječki karneval

25. 1. 2019., diljem Hrvatske / across Croatia U ovogodišnjoj Noći muzeja, koja se održava već 14 godina, sudje-

www.rijecki-karneval.hr

nocmuzeja.hr

www.adventzagreb.com

Noć muzeja 2019.

ruke maškara, uvodna je manifestacija Izbor Kraljice Riječkog karnevala 18. siječnja. Slijede Dječja karnevalska povorka 16. veljače, a veliko finale, Međunarodna karnevalska povorka, održat će se 3. ožujka. You’re invited to join a myriad of masks and be part of the good mood on the streets of Rijeka. The event opening the Rijeka Carnival on 18th January once the city key is officially handed over to the Master of the Carnival is the Rijeka Carnival Queen Pageant. This is followed by the Children’s Carnival Parade on 16th February, while the jewel in the crown of carnival festivities, the International Carnival Parade, is held on 3rd March.

17. 1. − 6. 3. 2019., Rijeka Pridružite se mnoštvu maski i prepustite dobrom raspoloženju na ulicama Rijeke. Poslije svečane primopredaje ključa grada u

Veljača February Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings Radio & Juliet − baletni rock spektakl Radio & Juliet, a ballet rock spectacle

16. 2. 2019., Zagreb

ZagrebDox

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programme, ZagrebDox is also bringing a whole host of non-competition programmes. www.zagrebdox.net

Samoborski fašnik Samobor Carnival

cateljskih ZagrebDox nudi vam i niz nenatjecateljskih programa. This is an international documentary film festival placing special emphasis on the regio-

nal programme, which makes it particularly interesting to all who’re looking to find out about the latest regional production in one place. Besides a competition

22. 2. − 5. 3. 2019., Samobor Ovaj je fašnik jedna od najstarijih pokladnih svečanosti u Hrvatskoj, kojom se Samoborci opraštaju od zime i otvaraju proljeću i predstojećoj godini. Desetak dana ulicama toga lijepoga grada vladaju maštovite maske i veselje. This is one of the oldest carnival festivities in Croatia, with which the residents of Samobor and their guests bid the winter farewell, and welcome the season of spring and the forthcoming year. During the ten days or so of the carnival, the streets of this picturesque town are overflowing with fancy carnival masks and joy. www.fasnik.com

Dubrovnik i okolica Dubrovnik and surroundings Festa sv. Vlaha The Feast of St. Blaise

3. 2. 2019., Dubrovnik Sv. Vlaho zaštitnik je grada Dubrovnika, a Festa svetoga Vlaha

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UNESCO-ova je nematerijalna svjetska baština. Blagdan ovoga sveca ujedno je i Dan Grada Dubrovnika. St. Blaise is the patron saint of Dubrovnik, with the Feast of St. Blaise having made it to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List. The Feast of St. Blaise is also the Day of the City of Dubrovnik. www.tzdubrovnik.hr

Ožujak March Pula i okolica Pula and surroundings Istarska zimska liga u trčanju Istrian Winter Running League

3. 3. 2019., Umag Četrnaesto izdanje ove utrke svjedoči o popularnosti trčanja. Kao i prethodnih godina, trči se devet kola, od studenoga do ožujka, u različitim istarskim mjestima. Ovo nije samo prilika za rekreaciju u prirodi nego i za druženje. The 14th edition of this race testifies to the popularity of running. As in previous years, nine rounds are run from November to March in various towns in Istria. This is a chance both of recreation in nature and of socialising. www.istra.hr

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To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoË nu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvat skoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2011. godine, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊi ma i grebenima. Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniË no. NovËana jedinica − kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovni ka), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Hrvatska je međunarodno priznata 15. siječnja 1992. godine, a od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica je Europske unije. This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. According to the 2011 census, Croatia’s population was 4,284,889. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The official language is Croatian, and the official script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sje verni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine,

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treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od naj ljepπih europskih vrtova. National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe. Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturnopovijesnim spo menicima iz svih razdoblja zbog burnih po vijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja ra zliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karakteriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËkosakral na baπtina te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinen talna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeuropskoga kulturnog kruga i istiËe se mnogim prapo vijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spome niËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u sred njovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, tako er je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine. A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of influences of different cultures. Its coast is cha-

racterized by the influences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monuments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental com-plexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik. The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage. Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − hitodrediπte na Sredozemlju. Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacional nog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluautocesta Hrvatska je bliæa nego ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajektom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has been a hit destination in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international experts in tourism. Croatia is close not only because of its geographic position, but also because of its network of airports and the top quality services provided by Croatia Airlines, its

national carrier, as well as other airliners. Also, due to its network of highways and semi-motorways, Croatia is closer than ever. If you have decided to spend your vacation on any one of the numerous islands in Croatia, even the most distant ones, it will take less than 2 hours by ferry or hydrofoil from the mainland. Novac i naËin plaÊanja Kuna je na ziv novËane je dinice Republi ke Hrvatske. U optje caju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp), (100 lipa = 1 kuna). Mogu Êe je plaÊanje

kre ditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, Ame rican Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euro Ëekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima. Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Kuna (kn). In circulation are banknotes in Kuna and coins in Kuna and Lipa (lp) ∑ one hundredth. Payments can be made by credit card (Diners, Visa, American Expre ss, Eurocard and Mastercard), as well as euro-checks. Cash can be withdrawn from ATMs.

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalna / regular sezonska ljetna / seasonal in summer

motorway, fast roads toll station tunnel, bridge other main roads national parks nature parks international border crossing petrol stations (0-24) airports ferry routes UNESCO World Heritage

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2018

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Osnove programa Miles & More Miles & More vodeći je europski program nagrađivanja čestih putnika i nudi članovima različite mogućnosti prikupljanja milja i korištenja nagrada te druge privlačne pogodnosti. Članovi prikupljaju statusne milje za redovne letove svih članica Star Alliancea i drugih avio prijevoznika partnera. Statusne milje određuju članski status: Basic (osnovni - plava kartica), Frequent Traveller (FTL - srebrna kartica), Senator (SEN - zlatna kartica) ili HON Circle (HON - crna kartica). Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendarskoj godini, postiže se status Frequent Traveller, a sa 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini status Senator. Članovi koji prikupe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u

razdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalendarske godine, stječu status HON Circle. Članovi prikupljaju nagradne milje koristeći se uslugama brojnih partnera u programu. Nagradne milje bilježe se za letove svih članica Star Alliancea i drugih prijevoznika partnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima, korištenje raznih usluga ostalih partnera i potrošnju preko cobrand kreditnih kartica Miles & More: Croatia Airlines American Express kartica - 4 kune = 1 nagradna milja − za svake 4 kune potrošene preko ove kartice, bilježi se 1 nagradna milja - 2000 milja dobrodošlice na Miles & More računu za nove korisnike - 1000 milja dobrodošlice za dodatnog člana

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2018

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- Putno osiguranje - Milje ne zastarijevaju - Dvostruke nagradne milje − za plaćanje u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travela Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditna kartica - 5 kuna = 1 nagradna milja − za svakih 5 kuna potrošenih preko ove kartice, bilježi se 1 nagradna milja. - Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda − jednostavno plaćajte svojom Diners Club karticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu. - 2 kartice − 1 račun Miles & More − koristite li se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom karticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na istom računu Miles & More. VISA Croatia Airlines kreditna kartica Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potrošnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potrošenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paketu 1 nagradna Miles & More milja. Više informacija možete pronaći na: www.milesandmore.com

Introducing Miles & More

Prikupljanje milja na letovima Croatia Airlinesa / Collecting miles on Croatia Airlines flights

Miles & More is the leading European frequent flyer programme, offering its members numerous possibilities for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many attractive privileges. Members collect status miles which determine a member’s membership status on scheduled flights operated by Star Alliance

members and other airline partners. Status miles are related to membership statuses: Basic (blue card), Frequent Traveller (FTL - silver card), Senator (SEN - gold card) and HON Circle (HON - black card). With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year, members acquire the Frequent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, acquire the HON Circle status. Members collect award miles by using the services of many partners in the programme. Miles are credited for flights of all Star Alliance members and other airline partners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car partners, staying at participating hotels, using services of other non-airline partners or spending over co-branded credit cards: Croatia Airlines American Express card - 4 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 4 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile - 2000 welcome miles on Miles & More account for new basic and 1000 welcome miles for new additional card users - Travel insurance - Miles do not expire - Earn double award miles − using the card to pay at Croatia Airlines and PBZ Card Travel Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card - 5 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile - Collect award miles everywhere − simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC offices in Croatia or abroad - 2 credit cards − 1 Miles & More membership account − use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account VISA Croatia Airlines credit card Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA Croatia Airlines standalone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 HRK spent via standalone credit card whereas for every 7 HRK spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

LETOVIMA

IRLINESA

MILES ON FLIGHTS

Please find detailed info at: www.milesandmore.com

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CROATIA AIRLINES NOVOSTI CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS

I. Dominik

kreiranja obroka za poslovni razred, Galvagno je i ove zime na kartu uspio uvesti jela koja nas oduševljavaju i otkrivaju namirnice koje su i u Hrvatskoj već pomalo zaboravljene ili nedovoljno prezentirane. Samoborska muštarda, šokol, soparnik, ukiseljena domaća jaja i žgvacet od divljači samo su neka jela koja možete kušati u našem poslovnom razredu i osjetiti okuse inspirirane Hrvatskom. Galvagnova je misija, a naše zadovoljstvo, sudjelovati u afirmaciji i predstavljanju upravo tih okusa.

PREVEZLI SMO DVOMILIJUNTNOG PUTNIKA U 2018. GODINI U Splitu smo 20. studenoga zabilježili našega dvomilijuntog putnika u ovoj godini. Naša je jubilarna putnica Olinka Gašparović, koja je bila na letu OU4439 iz Münchena u Split. Na prigodnoj svečanosti u splitskoj zračnoj luci, koja je održana nakon slijetanja zrakoplova iz Münchena u 11 sati i 40 minuta, naš direktor prodaje i marketinga Boris Kolka darovao je dvomilijuntoj putnici dvije povratne aviokarte u poslovnom razredu za jedno od naših međunarodnih odredišta, a dobitnicu je nagradila i Zračna luka Split. Dvomilijuntog putnika ove godine zabilježili smo 16 dana prije nego u 2017. godini, kada smo prvi put u povijesti tvrtke prevezli više od dva milijuna putnika tijekom jedne godine. U 2018. godini u našim zrakoplovima očekujemo više od 2,200.000 putnika, odnosno najveći broj putnika na godišnjoj razini od početka našega komercijalnog letenja 1991. godine.

OUR TWO MILLIONTH PASSENGER IN 2018 RECORDED On 20th November, Croatia Airlines recorded its two millionth passenger this year in Split − namely, Olinka Gašparović aboard flight OU4439 from Munich to Split. At a ceremony at the Split Airport, which was held immediately after the plane landed from Munich at 11:40 am, our Director of Sales and Marketing, Boris Kolka, presented our two millionth passenger with two return business class tickets to one of our international destinations of the passenger’s choice. Ms Gašparović was

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awarded by the Split Airport as well. We recorded our two millionth passengers 16 days earlier than in 2017, when we flew over two million passengers during a single calendar year for the first time in the history of the company. In 2018, we’re expecting to fly over 2,200,000 passengers aboard our flights, which is the largest number of passengers flown within a year since the launch of commercial flights in 1991.

ZIMSKI MENI Proslavljeni hrvatski chef Dino Galvagno i ove je godine u suradnji s Uje oil barom iz Splita kreirao zimski meni na našim zrakoplovima. Galvagno je poznat kao kuhar koji inzistira na maksimalnom iskorištavanju i upotrebi lokalno dostupnih namirnica, a to je filozofija i ovoga šarmantnog splitskog restorana s kojim surađuje. Poštujući sva ograničenja i zahtjevnost

CROATIA AIRLINES WINTER MENU Croatia Airlines’s winter menu was this year again created by the celebrated Croatian chef Dino Galvagno in collaboration with the Uje Oil Bar from Split. Chef Galvagno is famed for insisting on using locally available foods and ingredients as much as possible, which is a philosophy he shares with the said charming restaurant from Split that he collaborates with. Respecting all the limitations and the demands of creating a business class meal, chef Galvagno has managed to introduce dishes to the winter menu that delight and present ingredients that have been almost forgotten or insufficiently presented in Croatia. A mustard typical of the town and region of Samobor called Samoborska Muštarda, dry cured pork shoulder called Šokol typical of the town and region of Nin, a Swiss chard pie called Soparnik typical of the town of Poljice in Dalmatia, homemade pickled eggs and a game goulash called Žgvacet

MALA ŠETNJA ZA VELIKI OSMIJEH Letačko i kabinsko osoblje, piloti i stjuardese Croatia Airlinesa, posjetili su Specijalnu bolnicu za kronične bolesti dječje dobi Gornja Bistra. Tom prigodom razmijenili su iskustva s djelatnicima bolnice, s kojima ih povezuje stresnost njihovih profesija, te svjedočili njihovu timskom radu. Rado su se odazvali pozivu djelatnika bolnice da im pomognu obaviti dnevnu šetnju s mališanima za koje se nesebično brinu. Nova lica mališanima su prozor u svijet i neizmjerno ih vesele. Šetnja je uspješno obavljena na zadovoljstvo sviju. U okviru ovoga projekta Croatia Airlines, kao društveno odgovorna tvrtka, pripremit će i donaciju za bolnicu Gornja Bistra. Onima koji se žele informirati o ovom doista posebnom mjestu preporučujemo njihovu stranicu: www.bolnica-bistra.hr.

TAKING A SHORT WALK FOR A HUGE SMILE The flight and cabin crew, the pilots and flight attendants of Croatia Airlines, visited the Gornja Bistra Special Hospital for Chronic Diseases of Children. On the occasion, they exchanged their experience with the hospital’s staff, who what they have in common with is work-related stress, and witnessed their teamwork. Croatia Airlines’s flight and cabin crew gladly accepted the hospital’s staff’s invitation to join them in their daily walk with the children that they take care of so selflessly. For the hospitalised children, new faces are a window to the world and they look forward to them very much. The walk was to the mutual satisfaction of both the flight and cabin crew, and the children. Within the framework of this project, Croatia Airlines has, as a socially responsible company, also prepared a donation for the Gornja Bistra Hospital. For more information on this truly special place, please visit their website at www.bolnica-bistra.hr.

POTPISALI SMO SPORAZUM KAAT Na Fakultetu prometnih znanosti potpisali smo 3. listopada 2018. Sporazum o suradnji u europskom znanstveno-istraæivaËkom projektu u zrakoplovstvu, KAAT - Knowledge Alliance in Air Transport. Ovo je prvi put da tvrtke iz gospodarstva koje su nositelji zrakoplovne djelatnosti u Hrvatskoj aktivno surauju s akademskom zajednicom u znaËajnom europskom projektu Ëiji je cilj unaprijediti inovacije

u visokom obrazovanju. ZraËni promet zahtijeva konstantan razvoj poslova koje provodi visoko kvalificirana radna snaga s multidisciplinarnim znanjima i vjeπtinama. Cilj je projekta na razini partnera iz πest zemalja EU-a razviti novi nastavni plan i program zdruæenog studija primjenom inovativnih pristupa u nastavi i uËenju te pritom uspostaviti Ëvrstu suradnju izmeu znanstvene zajednice i industrije te gospodarstva.

A KAAT COLLABORATION AGREEMENT SIGNED Croatia Airlines signed a Knowledge Alliance in Air Transport (KAAT) Collaboration Agreement on 3rd October 2018 at the Faculty of Transport and Traffic Sciences in Zagreb. This is the first time that an airline company from the industry sector in Croatia has started actively collaborating with the academic community on a major European project aiming to enhance innovations in higher education. Air traffic requires the constant development of its affairs and services carried out by a highly qualified workforce with multidisciplinary knowledge and skills. The project aims to develop, at partner level from six EU countries, a new joint study curriculum via the application of innovative approaches to teaching and studying, and to set up a strong collaboration network between the scientific community on the one hand, and the industry and the economy on the other.

Š. Lugarov

typical of Istria are just some of the dishes you’ll taste in our business class, savouring Croatia-inspired flavours. It has been our pleasure to partake in Galvagno’s mission − the affirmation and presentation of local flavours.

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PODRŽALI SMO LENDING OUR SUPPORT

M. Čužić/HTS

CROATIAN TENNIS PLAYERS ON TOP OF THE WORLD Piše/By _ Mato Pejić

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Š. Lugarov

rošlo je tek nekoliko mjeseci otkako su na nezaboravan doček u glavni grad Hrvatske iz Moskve sa svjetskoga prvenstva stigli hrvatski nogometni reprezentativci ovjenčani srebrom zlatnog sjaja, a 26. studenoga zrakoplov Croatia Airlinesa iz Francuske je u Hrvatsku prevezao svjetske prvake, zlatne hrvatske tenisače! Prvake svijeta, osvajače Davis Cupa, momke koji su u velikome finalu, koje se od 23. do 25. studenoga odigravalo u francuskome Lilleu, glatko, elegantno i uvjerljivo pobijedili reprezentaciju Francuske! Svojim su se radom, trudom i talentom u epskoj bitci u Lilleu na tron popeli Marin Čilić, Borna Ćorić, Ivan Dodig, Mate Pavić, Franko Škugor, Viktor Galović, Nikola Mektić te njihov mudri selektor Željko Krajan, ali i svi koji čine reprezentaciju, od predsjednice HTS-a Nikoline Babić do liječnika, fizioterapeuta i pomoćnih trenera. Pobrojani su svi jer u reprezentaciji je to tako − svi za jednoga, jedan za sve! No ostat će ipak zapisano da su se za odlučujuće pobjede i bodove izborila dva ponajbolja hrvatska reketa, Marin Čilić i Borna Ćorić. Za zadnji bod u meču, onaj pobjedonosni, kojime je na nevjerojatan način nadigran Lucas Pouille, a time i francuska reprezentacija, zaslužan je Marin Čilić jer je pobjedu zapečatio savršenim lobom. Bio je to, kako je po dolasku na velebni doček na Trgu bana

Jelačića Čilić rekao novinarima, lob njegova života! Ne događa se svaki dan lob za naslov svjetskih prvaka! Kako život piše romane, tako je sudbina htjela da veliko finale mala Hrvatska ponovno igra protiv velike Francuske. Malena stanovništvom i površinom, ali zato velika sportska nacija prepuna sportaša raskošnoga talenta. Nakon finala cijeli se svijet naklonio Hrvatskoj, ne samo iznimno korektni francuski tenisači i njihov selektor Yannick Noah. Hrvatskoj se, primjerice, nadivila i Judy Murray, majka britanskoga tenisača Andyja, napisavši: Hrvatska je osvojila Davis Cup, a uz to su igrali i u finalu Svjetskoga nogometnog prvenstva. Ima samo četiri milijuna stanovnika. Impresivno!

Nije put do vrha bio nimalo lagan. Valjalo je redom pobijediti Kanadu, Kazahstan, SAD u polufinalu da bi u konačnici Hrvatska pobijedila i Francusku. Valjalo je i preboljeti poraz od Argentine u finalu 2016. godine. Ovim je momcima sve to uspjelo. Oni su stigli na kraj puta onako kako su to 2005. učinili Mario Ančić, Ivan Ljubičić, Ivo Karlović i Goran Ivanišević i osvojili Davis Cup vođeni velikim strategom Nikolom Pilićem. Ovaj trijumf ipak vrijedi malo više. Ostat će, naime, debelim slovima zapisan u povijesnim knjigama jer je posljednji Davis Cup koji se igra u ovakvom formatu. Veliki trofej, dobro znana salatara, u hrvatskim je rukama, kod momaka koji su ispisali povijest. A ne čini se da imaju namjeru na tome stati. U njih je mladosti,

znanja, talenta i volje, što jamči da će trofeja biti još. Pobjeda u Lilleu čudesni je vrhunac iznimne sportske godine za Hrvatsku. Vrijedi podsjetiti kako su odličja osvajali i drugi. Stoga je već sada jasno kako slatke brige čekaju i zaposlenike Croatia Airlinesa. Ne treba, naime, ni sumnjati kako će i u sljedećoj godini njihovom zrakoplovima letjeti svjetski prvaci ovjenčani sjajnim odličjima  − hrvatski sportaši i sportašice!

t’s only been a few months since the Croatian national football team crowned with the silver medal of the glow of gold were given an unforgettable welcome in the capital of Croatia once they returned from the football tournament in Moscow, and now, on 26th November, Croatia Airlines brought the world champions, Croatia’s tennis players crowned with gold, back home from France. The champions of the world, the winners of the Davis Cup, the guys who played and won against the team of France in the final that took place between 23rd and 25th November in Lille in France − and this smoothly, elegantly and convincingly! Croatia is on top of the world! Thanks to their hard work, efforts and talent, in an epic battle in Lille, the throne was taken by Marin Čilić, Borna Ćorić, Ivan Dodig, Mate Pavić, Franko Škugor, Viktor Galović, Nikola Mektić and their wise coach Željko Krajan, as well

as all the other members of the national tennis team, from the President of the Croatian Tennis Association Nikolina Babić to the doctors, physiotherapists and assistant coaches. All have been mentioned, because that’s how things are in Croatia’s national team − all for one, one for all! Nevertheless, what will go down in history is the fact that the decisive match and points were won by Croatia’s two best tennis players − Marin Čilić and Borna Ćorić. The final point in the match, the one to end in victory, the one with which Lucas Pouille and France’s national tennis team was outplayed in an incredible way, is to be credited to Marin Čilić and his triumphant perfect lob. This was the lob of his life, Čilić told reporters once he arrived to the magnificent welcome party organised at the Ban Jelačić Square in Zagreb. It’s not every day that you get to throw a lob that ends in the title of world champions! Given that life’s a story, that small Croatia would yet again play against great France in the grand finale seems to have been written in the stars. A country with a small population and small in size, but also a great sporting nation abounding in exceptionally talented athletes. After the Davis Cup final, the whole world bowed to Croatia, and not only the exceptionally correct French tennis players and their coach Yannick Noah. Judy Murray, the mother of British tennis player

Andy Murray, also congratulated Croatia. She said that it’s impressive how Croatia won the Davis Cup even though it’s a country of only four million people. The way to the top wasn’t easy at all! Croatia had to first beat Canada and Kazakhstan, the US in the semi-finals, and then France in the final. They also had to get over their defeat by Argentina in the 2016 final. These guys have done it all! They’ve reached the end of the road the way that Mario Ančić, Ivan Ljubičić, Ivo Karlović and Goran Ivanišević did in 2005 by having won the Davis Cup led by the great strategist Nikola Pilić. Still, this triumph is worth a little more. More specifically, it will go down in history given that this was the last Davis Cup to be played in this format. The Davis Cup trophy, widely known as the punchbowl trophy, is in Croatian hands, in the hands of the guys who made history. And they won’t stop here. They have the youth, the knowledge, the talent and the will, meaning that more trophies will surely come. The victory in Lille is a marvellous culmination of an extraordinary sporting year for Croatia. It’s worth recalling that medals were also won by others as well. It’s clear that the employees of Croatia Airlines can indeed look forward to dealing with sweet worries. There’s no doubt that Croatia Airlines will next year too be flying Croatian athletes − world champions crowned with medals! 

A. Grubelić

Marin Čilić sjajnom igrom zapečatio je pobjedu zlatnih hrvatskih tenisača Marin Čilić’s brilliant play sealed the victory of Croatia’s gold-winning players

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SPREMNI ZA LET? READY TO FLY?

8kg RUČNA PRTLJAGA

HAND BAGGAGE

Dopuštena ručna prtljaga za putnike ekonomskog razreda je 1 komad, a za putnike poslovnog razreda 2 komada (težine do 8 kg i zbroja dimenzija do 115 cm) Veće komade ručne prtljage spremite u pretince, a manje torbe označene privjeskom Prtljaga za avion stavite ispod sjedala ispred vas, osim u redovima kod izlaza za slučaj opasnosti. Dodatno, svaki putnik može ponijeti u kabinu: - 1 komad osobne prtljage najveće dopuštene veličine 40x30x10 cm - putuje li s djetetom do 2 g. - 1 dječja kolica ili autosjedalicu ili nosiljku te hranu za bebe - bolesne i invalidne osobe mogu ponijeti ortopedska pomagala ili protetske naprave

The hand baggage allowance for economy class passengers is 1 piece and for business class passengers 2 pieces (weighing up to 8 kg, whose total sum of dimensions does not exceed 115 cm). Your hand baggage must be stowed in overhead compartments. All smaller bags with a Carry-on Baggage tag must be placed under the seat in front of you, except in emergency exit rows. Each passenger may additionally take into the passenger cabin the following: - 1 personal item whose maximum size does not exceed 40x30x10 cm (16x12x4 in); - each passenger travelling with a child under 2 years of age is also allowed to take aboard 1 infant's carrying basket or a fully collapsible stroller/pushchair or a car seat and baby food; - disabled passengers may also take 1 pair of crutches and/or braces or any other prosthetic device.

20 cm 100ml

30 cm

100ml

20 cm TEKUĆINE U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI U zrakoplov se smiju unositi: - tekućine kupljene u duty free prodavaonicama ili u zrakoplovu, pod uvjetom da su spremljene u prozirne plastične vrećice, zapečaćene prilikom kupnje (STEB) i ne smiju se otvarati do krajnjeg odredišta - tekućine pakirane u pojedinačnim pakiranjima do 100 ml ili 100 g u prozirnoj plastičnoj vrećici sa zatvaračem do 1 litre - tekućine koje se tijekom leta koriste u medicinske svrhe ili zbog posebnih prehrambenih potreba (dječja hrana). Ostale tekućine mogu se prevoziti u predanoj prtljazi. LIQUIDS IN YOUR HAND BAGGAGE

Carry-on baggage

10 cm

Please place this bag under the seat in front of you.

The following can be taken aboard our aircraft:

Not for exit rows.

40 cm

55 cm

20 cm

40 cm

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- liquids purchased in airside duty free shops past the airport security check, provided they are stored in transparent plastic bags, sealed when purchased (STEB) and remain unopened until your final destination; - liquids packed in individual packaging up to 100 ml or 100 gr and stored in a transparent plastic bag with a zipper (up to maximally 1 litre); - liquids that are to be used during flights for medical purposes or for special nutritional needs (baby food). Other liquids can be transported in your checked baggage.

Cruise

o ŽIVOTINJE U PUTNIČKOJ KABINI U kabini se istodobno mogu prevoziti samo dvije životinje - dva psa ili dvije mačke. Prijevoz psa i mačke na istome letu nije dozvoljen. Životinje mogu putovati isključivo u torbi za nošenje i prijevoz kućnih ljubimaca, a tijekom cijeloga leta moraju biti u torbi ispod prednjeg sjedala. Životinje koje se zbog veličine ne mogu prevoziti u putničkoj kabini prevoze se u prtljažniku zrakoplova. Putnik je dužan pribaviti potrebnu dokumentaciju. Prijevoz životinja treba unaprijed rezervirati i dodatno se plaća u poslovnicama. ANIMALS IN THE PASSENGER CABIN On the same flight, only two animals can be transported at the same time either two dogs or two cats. The transportation of dogs and cats on the same flight is not permitted. A passenger can carry only one pet bag to be held under the seat in front of the passenger throughout the entire flight. Animals that cannot be transported in the passenger cabin due to their size are transported in the aircraft hold if they meet certain conditions. Passengers are required to obtain all the necessary documentation. Animal transportation must be booked in advance at an additional charge to be paid in any branch office.

ELEKTRONIČKI UREĐAJI U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI Upotreba elektroničkih uređaja dopuštena je isključivo u zrakoplovnom radu, a teže i veće uređaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je upaljen znak obaveznoga vezanja.

Dopuštene elektroničke naprave: - mobilni / pametni telefoni - tablet računala - slušalice za suzbijanje buke - digitalni audio / MP3 uređaji - elektroničke igre - e-čitači - prijenosna / notebook računala - prijenosni DVD / CD uređaji - Bluetooth uređaji - kamere - medicinski uređaji - električni brijaći aparati Zabranjene elektroničke naprave: - elektronički uređaji za simuliranje pušenja - samobalansirajući uređaji koji sadrže litijeve baterije nisu dozvoljeni u ručnoj i predanoj prtljazi

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI

ELECTRONIC DEVICES IN YOUR HAND BAGGAGE

The use of electronic devices is allowed only in airplane mode. Heavy and large devices must be stored away while the seat belt sign is on. Electronic devices allowed aboard our aircraft: - mobile/smart telephones - tablet computers - noise-cancelling headphones - digital audio/MP3 players - electronic games - e-book readers - laptop/notebook computers - portable DVD/CD players - Bluetooth devices - cameras - medical devices - electric shavers Electronic devices not allowed aboard our aircraft: - electric smoking simulation devices - self-balancing devices that run on lithium batteries are not allowed in either your hand baggage or checked baggage

Zakonom je zabranjeno nošenje opasnoga materijala u ručnoj i predanoj prtljazi. To su eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekućine i čvrste tvari, radioaktivni materijali, infektivne tvari i otrovi, oružje, stlačeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuća sredstva itd. ITEMS NOT ALLOWED The carrying of hazardous items and materials in either your hand baggage or checked baggage is prohibited by law. These are explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials, infectious substances and poisons, weapons, compressed gases, corrosive and oxidising agents, etc.

USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA Svi su obroci i pića u našim zrakoplovima besplatni, a usluga ovisi o razredu prijevoza, duljini leta i dobu dana. Nudimo vam mogućnost kupnje na letu u našem Sky shopu. Za posebne prigode postoji mogućnost kupnje torte i pjenušca koje poslužujemo na letu. Dopuštena je konzumacija samo onih alkoholnih pića koja su poslužena u zrakoplovu. SERVICE DURING FLIGHTS All meals and drinks aboard our aircraft are free of charge, and the service offered depends on the travel class, the length of flight and the part of day of the flight. During your flight, you can shop in our Sky Shop. For special occasions, a cake and sparkling wine can be purchased to be served during the flight. The consumption of only those alcoholic beverages that are served aboard our aircraft is allowed.

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WE’RE INVESTING IN TECHNOLOGY THAT YOU WON’T ALWAYS SEE, BUT YOU WILL NOTICE. At Star Alliance, we’re working with our member airlines to make your journeys seamless - now and in the future. staralliance.com/tech

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Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft. Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

35,8 / 117

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg) 73 500

64 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

174

144

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

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Helsinki Oslo

Stockholm

St. Petersburg

Dublin Copenhagen

Amsterdam

London

Berlin Dusseldorf

Brussels Frankfurt

Paris

Prague

Munich

Vienna

ZĂźrich Lyon

Milan Venice

Zagreb

Pula

Lisbon

Osijek Belgrade Sarajevo

Zadar Split Bol Mostar Dubrovnik

Barcelona

Bucharest

Rijeka

Rome

Skopje

Athens

Tel Aviv

Code Share Partners

Star Aliance Members

Air Canada

Adria Airways

Eva Air

Asiana

Aegean

LOT Polish Airlines

Air Canada

Lufthansa

Swiss International Air Lines

Air China

Scandinavian Airlines

Air France

Air India

Shenzhen Airlines

Austrian Airlines

Air New Zealand

Singapore Airlines

Lufthansa

ANA - All Nippon Airways

South African Airways

TAP Portugal

Asiana Airlines

Swiss

Air India

Austrian Airlines

TAP Air Portugal

Brussels Airlines

Avianca

Thai Airways International

SAS

Avianca Brasil

Turkish Airlines

Brussels Airlines

United Airlines

Alitalia

Copa Airlines