Putni časopis Croatia zima 2023 / Inflight magazine Croatia winter 2023 by Croatia Airlines

Zima _ Winter 2023/24

Inflight magazine

The flavours of Zagreb in our aircraft

Allow Us to Amaze You

Timeless elegance, impeccable service and a favored location in Zagreb city centre are only a few of the reasons why Sheraton Zagreb Hotel is the number one choice for demanding travelers. Discover local delicacies in our restaurants, relax over a glass of fine wine in the Tomassino restaurant, recharge your batteries at the modernly-equipped spa & fitness center and discover why Zagreb is the new shining star on Europe’s tourist map. Book your stay at: +385 1 455 3535 or via an e-mail: reservations@sheratonzagreb.com Sheraton

SheratonHotels

Sheraton Zagreb Hotel Kneza Borne 2 HR-10000 Zagreb, Croatia T +385 1 455 35 35 www.marriott.com/ZAGSI

S. Šimunović/PIXSELL

Poštovani putnici!

Dear passengers!

Zakoračili smo u doba godine koje počinje onim posebnim blagdanskim ugođajem, kada mnogi od vas putuju u različita odredišta kako bi se sastali sa svojom obitelji i prijateljima. Raduje me što ste za vaše putovanje odabrali naš zrakoplov. Dobro nam došli! U želji da vas naši zrakoplovi tijekom zimskih mjeseci dovedu u što više odredišta u kojima vas čekaju vaši najmiliji, proširili smo mrežu naših letova. Sedam hrvatskih zračnih luka povezano je sa 13 međunarodnih odredišta, a od ukupno 23 međunarodne linije istaknuo bih uvođenje nove linije Zadar − München te produljenje sezonskih linija Dubrovnik − Frankfurt, Split − London Heathrow te Pula − Zürich, na kojima će naši zrakoplovi nastaviti letjeti i u zimskom dijelu godine. Vjerujem da će vam trenutke leta i ovaj put uljepšati naš putni časopis s raznovrsnim temama i događajima, koji nude dodatni razlog za dolazak u našu zemlju. Osim toga, u suradnji s Turističkom zajednicom grada Zagreba potrudili smo se da u našem zrakoplovu posebno osjetite okuse Zagreba i njegove okolice preko nekih tipičnih specijaliteta ovog podneblja. A u zagrebačkome muzeju Klovićevi dvori u tijeku je velika izložba o našem proslavljenom umjetniku svjetskoga glasa Ivanu Meštroviću. Onima koji vole usporeni turizam zacijelo će biti zanimljivo otkrivati čari sjeverozapadne Istre, a kontinentalna Hrvatska poziva vas da otkrijete netaknutu prirodu Kalnika, gore koja se uzdiže u nizinskom krajoliku sjeverozapadnog dijela naše zemlje. Također, saznat ćete više i o zimskom turizmu Kvarnera, po kojemu je odavno poznat taj dio primorske Hrvatske te o tamošnjim zdravstvenim i lječilišnim blagodatima. Dragi putnici, na kraju ove i u cijeloj 2024. godini želim vam mnogo lijepih trenutaka i događaja za pamćenje. Od srca vam hvala što letite Croatia Airlinesom. Sretan vam Božić i nova godina!

The time of year we have entered starts off with that truly special festive season when many of you travel to different destinations to meet up with your family and friends. I’m happy that you’ve chosen our travel service for your flight. Welcome to our aircraft! In wanting to be able to fly you to as many destinations as possible during the winter months for you to meet up with your loved ones, we’ve expanded our flight network. Croatia’s seven airports are connected with 13 international destinations. Similarly, out of the 23 international routes in total on which we operate flights, I’d like to single out the introduction of the new Zadar−Munich route, and the extension of the operation of flights on the seasonal Dubrovnik− Frankfurt, Split−London Heathrow, and Pula−Zurich routes into the winter season. I believe that our inflight magazine featuring different topics and pieces, which may provide you with reason enough to visit our country, will brighten up your stay in our aircraft this time as well. In collaboration with the Zagreb Tourist Board, we have made an effort to see to it that you savour the flavours of Zagreb and its surroundings via a number of specialities typical of the region served in our aircraft. In Zagreb’s Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, a large exhibition of Croatia’s celebrated artist of world renown, Ivan Meštrović, is on show. Those in love with slow travel will surely find discovering the charms of north-western Istria fascinating. Continental Croatia is inviting you to discover the pristine nature of Mount Kalnik, a mountain that rises in the lowlands of the north-western part of our country. You’ll also learn more about winter tourism in the region of Kvarner, and about the health benefits of the region’s climate, which that part of coastal Croatia has long been known for. Dear passengers, may the rest of this year and the entire year ahead of you be filled with countless beautiful and memorable moments and events. Thank you wholeheartedly for flying Croatia Airlines. Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Jasmin Bajić Predsjednik Uprave / President & CEO

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 1

SADRŽAJ CONTENTS

12 Razgovor MENI JE ŽIVOT UVIJEK DOBAR I LIJEP

Doajenka fotografije Slavka Pavić bavi se fotografijom gotovo osam desetljeća i još ne ispušta fotoaparat iz ruku. Interview FOR ME, LIFE IS ALWAYS GOOD, LIFE’S BEAUTIFUL

Zima _ Winter 2023/24 www.croatiaairlines.com

Uredništvo ne odgovara za promjene u rasporedu događanja, za otkazivanje ili promjene datuma održavanja događanja nastale nakon objavljivanja časopisa. Uredništvo ne odgovara za sadržaj oglasa, promotivnih i plaćenih PR tekstova te kvalitetu njihova prijevoda. The editorial board cannot be held responsible for any changes that may occur in the scheduling of events or their cancellation after the magazine goes to press. The editorial board cannot be liable for the content of advertisments, promotional texts, and paid PR texts or the quality of their translation.

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Umjetnost

Kontinentalna Hrvatska

MIT KOJI TRAJE

KALNIK

Nađete li se ove zime u Zagrebu, imat ćete rijetku privilegiju susreta s opusom Ivana Meštrovića, najznačajnijeg hrvatskog umjetnika svjetskoga glasa, u muzeju Klovićevi dvori.

Stjenovit i tektonski razlomljen Kalnik

Art

Continental Croatia

AN ENDURING MYTH

KALNIK

If you happen to be in Zagreb this winter, you’ll have the privilege of enjoying at the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery the works of Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s greatest artist of world renown.

Rocky and tectonically fractured Kalnik with

sa svojim poznatim hrptom prva je gora Hrvatskoga zagorja, brežuljkastog dijela Hrvatske.

its famous ridge is the first mount of Hrvatsko Zagorje, which translates as Croatian Uplands, Croatia’s region of hills.

38 Sjeverozapadna Istra LJEPOTA USPORENOG PUTOVANJA

Između rijeka Dragonje i Mirne sve do Šterne, Oprtlja i Završja prostire se Bujština. Zovu je još i sjeverozapadnom Istrom, idealna za ljepotu usporenog putovanja. North-western Istria THE BEAUTY OF SLOW TRAVEL

Also known as north-western Istria, Bujština is sandwiched between the rivers Dragonja and Mirna, and includes the hamlets of Šterna, Oprtalj, and Završje. It’s ideal for slow travel.

S. Pjanić

G. Vranić

V. Skledar

Doyen Slavka Pavić has been involved in photography for nearly eight decades, and still hasn’t put her camera down.

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 3

48 Muzeji MUZEJ BETINSKE DRVENE BRODOGRADNJE

E. Hanna _ Betina

Muzej betinske drvene brodogradnje jedinstveni je muzej u Hrvatskoj koji čuva tradicijska znanja o maloj drvenoj brodogradnji na otoku Murteru. Museums

E. Hanna

BETINA MUSEUM OF WOODEN SHIPBUILDING

Nakladnik/Publisher

The Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding is a one of a kind museum in Croatia that preserves traditional knowledge about small wooden shipbuilding on the island of Murter.

Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia +385-1-616-00-66 pr@croatiaairlines.hr

www.croatiaairlines.com

Moda SOVILJ − VIŠE OD NAKITA

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO

Sovilj je prestižan hrvatski brend umjetnički

Jasmin Bajić

oblikovanog nakita. Autor je jedan od Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief

nakitne umjetnosti.

Ksenija Ælof

Fashion

Suradnici glavne urednice/

SOVILJ − MORE THAN JEWELLERY

Editor-in-chief assistants

Sovilj is a prestigious Croatian brand of

Ana Ćulumović Šoštarić, Davor Janušić,

artistically designed jewellery, whose designer

Anamarija Jurinjak

M. Šarić

najeminentnijih predstavnika hrvatske

is one of Croatia’s most prominent art jewellers.

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ, Miranda Herceg

Prijelom/Layout

Miranda Herceg

Arhitektura NOVA GRUNTOVNICA

Direktor Komercijalnih poslova/

Važnost realizacije projekta nove

Commercial Division Director

gruntovnice prepoznata je i izvan granica

Slaven Žabo

Hrvatske nominacijom za nagradu Europske unije za suvremenu arhitekturu.

Lektor/Proofreader Nevena Erak Camaj

Bosnić+Dorotić

Architecture THE NEW LAND REGISTRY

Prijevod na engleski/

The new Land Registry project has been

English translation

recognised as important beyond the borders

Ana Janković

of Croatia, which is why it was nominated for

Oglaπavanje/Advertising

the EU Prize for Contemporary Architecture.

Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert +385-1-616-00-17

advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Naše odredište RAZIGRANOST BOŽIĆNIH SAJMOVA

Promocija/Promotion

München ima savršen božićni sajam − baš

Croatia Airlines

za svakoga. Tradicija božićnih sajmova

+385-1-616-01-02

rodila se upravo na njemačkom govornom području, s kojega se i proširila svijetom.

Priprema/Prepress AKD d.o.o., Savska cesta 31, Zagreb

COLOURFUL CHRISTMAS MARKETS

Munich has the perfect Christmas market − for everyone. The tradition of Christmas markets originated in and then spread exactly from German-speaking Europe.

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Dieter K. _ Unsplash

Our destination Tisak/Press AKD d.o.o., Savska cesta 31, Zagreb

ISSN 1330-6278

CELINE BALENCIAGA LOEWE GUCCI VALENTINO SAINT LAURENT BOTTEGA VENETA ALAIA THE ROW CHLOE GIVENCHY BURBERRY KHAITE MONCLER CULT GAIA THE ATTICO VITA KIN MAGDA BUTRYM CECILIE BAHNSEN BORSALINO FALIERO SARTI DELFINA DELETTREZ IVI JEWELRY LAUREN RUBINSKI LINDA FARROW LUXE ALEVI MILANO GIANVITO ROSSI MARIA ZAGREB MASARYKOVA 8 014811011 MARIA DUBROVNIK SV. DOMINIKA BB 020321330 CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 5 WWW.MARIASTORE.HR INFO@MARIASTORE.HR INSTAGRAM: @MARIASTOREHR

CHECKPOINT

Testament Winery Doživite okus bogate hrvatske vinske tradicije uz vinariju Testament. Naša vrhunska vina proizvedena su od pomno biranih autohtonih sorti uzgojenih po ekološkim principima. Posjetite Testament kušaonicu u srcu vinograda kako biste kušali nagrađivana vina i saznali više o našem procesu proizvodnje vina. Experience the taste of Croatia's rich winemaking tradition with Testament Winery. Our premium wines are made from carefully selected indigenous varieties, grown in accordance with organic principles. Visit the Testament tasting room in the heart of our vineyards to sample our award-winning wines and learn more about our winemaking process. Stražnice 2 (Jadrtovac), 22000 ŠIbenik www.testament-winery.com _ Fb: Testament Winery _ Instagram: @testamentwinery

Zlatni licitar Golden Licitar Heart Zlatni licitar predstavlja jedinstven spoj tradicije, simbola ljubavi i suvremenosti, pretočen u iznimno nosiv i efektan nakit s porukom. Kolekciju možete pronaći u zlatarni Lapidarium u centru Zagreba te svim boljim suvenirnicama. Uniquely blending tradition, the symbol of love, and modernity, the Golden Licitar Heart is wearable and effective jewellery with a message. The collection is available at the Lapidarium jewellery store in Zagreb’s city centre, and other high-end souvenir shops. zlatni-licitar.com

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WINTER

The City Walls, Rector’s Palace, museums and galleries. Full experience. Great savings.

NOVEMBER - FEBRUARY

FROM JUST 15€ Have the whole city on your palm - by purchasing the Dubrovnik Pass you get access to the City Walls and all other major attractions.

www.dubrovnikpass.com

CROATIA CROATIA AIRLINES AIRLINES 4/2023 3/2023 _ 7 9

LYKKE mirisni medaljoni / scented lockets Adriatic Coral mirisni medaljon svevremeni je ukras iz morskih dubina u čiju se čarobnu moć vjeruje od davnina. U nekim se kulturama smatrao svetim kamenom nevjerojatne snage i cijenjen je kao zaštitnik žena. Boja Lykke mirisnog koralja mijenja se promjenom posebno kreiranih spužvica u 10 različitih boja, a miris spužvica ovisi o vašoj želji i izboru. Dostupan je u Lykke Gift Shopu u Zagrebu. The Adriatic Coral scented locket symbolizes a timeless decoration from the depths of the sea whose magical power has been believed in since ancient times. In some cultures, it was considered a sacred stone of incredible strength and was revered as a protector of women. The color of the Lykke scented coral changes by changing the specially created sponges in 10 different colors, and the scent of the sponges depends on your desire and choice. It is available at the Lykke gift shop in Zagreb. www.lykke.hr

Svjetiljka Igram Igram lamp Prijenosna stolna svjetiljka Igram studija Grupa dobitnica je ovogodišnje nagrade Archiproducts Design Awards. Osim što potvrđuje predanost Grupe inovacijama, ovaj uspjeh naglašava međunarodnu prepoznatljivost brenda. Istražite Igram na www.grupa.com. Designed by the Grupa design studio, the Igram portable table lamp is one of the winners of this year’s Archiproducts Design Awards. This success not only confirms Grupa’s commitment to innovations, but also highlights the brand’s international recognition. Explore Igram at www.grupa.com.

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OBERTAUERN THE SNOWIEST SKI RESORT IN AUSTRIA

Kesselspitze Valamar Collection Hotel

Valamar Obertauern Hotel

Obertauern [PLACESHOTEL] by Valamar

T +385 52 465 000 / E reservations@valamar.com / www.valamar.com CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 9

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CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 11

V. Skledar

RAZGOVOR INTERVIEW

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Možda i nećemo pretjerati kad kažemo da ovaj razgovor vodimo s prvom damom hrvatske fotografije. Taj epitet doajenka Slavka Pavić svakako zaslužuje već samim time što se bavi fotografijom gotovo osam desetljeća i još ne ispušta fotoaparat iz ruku. It wouldn’t be a wild exaggeration to say that this is an interview with the first lady of photography in Croatia. Doyen Slavka Pavić is most certainly deserving of this epithet given the fact that she’s been involved in photography for nearly eight decades, and still hasn’t put her camera down.

SLAVKA PAVIĆ MENI JE ŽIVOT UVIJEK DOBAR I LIJEP FOR ME, LIFE IS ALWAYS GOOD, LIFE’S BEAUTIFUL

PIŠE/BY __ Ksenija Žlof

Geometrija, 1957. Geometry, 1957

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 13

01 U prolazu, Harmica, Zagreb, 1951. Passing by, Harmica, Zagreb, 1951 02 Topničar, Sisak Gunner, Sisak

oput kakve radoznale djevojčice u svojoj 96. godini očima punim divljenja fotografkinja Slavka Pavić promatra svijet oko sebe, hoda, istražuje ima li što novo, promišlja, eksperimentira, posvećuje se detaljima, ne prestaje raditi. I to traje još od 1946. godine, kad je iz Daruvara došla u Zagreb. Ovdje joj je život krenuo posve drugim smjerom nego što je planirala, na njezino veliko zadovoljstvo. No krenimo otpočetka.  Recite nam najprije kako je zapravo počelo vaše druženje s fotografijom, za što je, znamo, uvelike zaslužan vaš suprug Milan Pavić, fotoreporter Agencije za fotodokumentaciju, koji vam je i poklonio prvi fotoaparat. − Prije nego što sam došla u Zagreb, radila sam u pivovari u Daruvaru. Htjela sam studirati ekonomiju. Upisala sam studij, ali ostala sam živjeti u Daruvaru pa sam

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vlakom putovala u Zagreb. Tako sam na peronu upoznala svojega budućeg supruga Milana. Nekako je među nama sve išlo brzo i spontano. Udala sam se i definitivno doselila u Zagreb. Živjeli smo lijep život. Mnogo smo putovali. Zapravo, Milan je često putovao poslovno, a ja sam ga uvijek pratila. Uz njega sam počela i snimati, on me u tome ohrabrivao. Ja bih uvijek nosila kameru, a Milan naše ostale stvari. Nekad je fotoaparat bio rijetkost i imali su ga samo dobrostojeći ljudi. Recimo, planinari. Oni su uvijek, uz svoju planinarsku opremu, koja nije baš bila jeftina, nosili sa sobom i fotoaparate. Baš kao da smo planinari, i mi smo puno hodali, voljeli smo hodati. Kad danas gledam svoju arhivu, uvijek se iznova čudim gdje smo sve bili.  U vašim beskonačnim šetnjama Zagrebom, koja su vam mjesta ostala posebno draga i zanimljiva?

− Jedno od njih je Most slobode. Oduvijek sam mu se divila. I sada mi je lijep, onako nekako elegantan. Taj most uvijek je živio punim životom. Recimo danas, dođu ljudi poslije vjenčanja, slikaju se, dolaze mladi, naprave piknik, vesele se, slave, donesu balone... Sjećam se i jedne davne fotografije koju sam snimila kod tog mosta. Grupa mladića ondje je igrala nogomet, a kraj njih je stajao jedan bijeli Volkswagen, buba. Čim sam ugledala taj prizor, znala sam da će to biti dobra fotografija. I bila je. Drugo što oduvijek volim slikati u Zagrebu jesu stabla. Obožavam drveće jer priča svoje priče. Gledam kako su mala stabla odjednom narasla pa se divim brezama koje brzo požute, a pokraj njih raste niz zelenih stabala. Volim uhvatiti te boje...  No vaši su počeci vezani uz crno-bijelu fotografiju. Što više doživljavate kao nešto svoje, fotografije u boji ili crno-bijele? − Danas je sve u boji. Fotografije su u boji, televizija je u boji, svijet je u boji... Naravno, danas i ja radim fotografije u boji, ali jako sam vezana za crno-bijelu fotografiju. Dobro je što se i digitalna fotografija može pretvoriti u crno-bijelu.  Fotografi često moraju preskočiti razne prepreke da bi došli do dobre fotografije, onakve kakvu su zamislili. Doslovce i u prenesenom značenju. Kako ste se

 Kroz svoju profesiju mnogo ste

Volim skromne, drage, nenametljive ljude. Odgovorne. Tako sam odgojena. Volim

slavnih ljudi upoznali, velikane kojih više nema među nama. Među njima su, primjerice, Tin Ujević, Miroslav Krleža, Ranko Marinković... Kako ste doživlja-

podržavati dobre ljude koji

vali te susrete? Je li vas netko posebno

svojim radom i ophođenjem

impresionirao? − Više je kontakata s njima imao moj suprug nego ja. Plejade ljudi prošle su kroz njegov ured za dokumentaciju, neki su dolazili zbog posla, neki jednostavno da vide što je novo. Ja sam uvijek bila uz njega, ali kad je on fotografirao te velikane, uvijek bih se diskretno udaljila, maknula u stranu. U svemu treba imati mjeru. Još je Platon to rekao i ja se toga držim cijeli život.  Ali poznato je da ste katkad voljeli ići korak dalje, pomaknuti granicu, eksperimentirati u fotografiji. Dvostruke ekspozicije, fotogrami...

pridonose drugima. Da nema dobrih ljudi, sve bi propalo. I like modest, kind, unobtrusive people. Responsible people. That’s how I was raised. I like supporting good people who contribute to the welfare of others with their work and conduct. If there weren’t any good people around, all would

− Jesam, radila sam eksperimente iz kojih nastaju apstraktne fotografije i ustanovila da ljudi to vole gledati. Tako ostavljam da si svatko misli što želi o takvoj apstraktnoj fotografiji i da sam zaključi što iza toga stoji. Neka mašta radi, kao i u apstraktnom slikarstvu. Divila sam se našem velikom slikaru Edi Murtiću i njegovom apstraktnom američkom opusu.  Koje su vam od ostalih umjetnosti zanimljive? − Svakako slikarstvo i književnost. Festivali književnosti koje sada imamo divna su ostvarenja. Također, jako cijenim i arhitekte. Volim fotografirati arhitekturu. U Zagrebu se šezdesetih i sedamdesetih godina prošlog stoljeća dogodio bum u arhitekturi. Volim fotografirati Donji grad, njegove secesijske zgrade, zgradu Državnog arhiva, Bolléovu arhitekturu, zgradu Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt i Školu primi-

be lost.

nosili s preprekama i prevladavali ih i u fotografiji i u stvarnom životu?

− Da, fotografi se često penju, dođu i u opasne situacije. Sa svojim mužem ne samo da sam mnogo hodala nego smo se često i penjali. Sjećam se jedne situacije na Mljetu kad se penjao da bi dobio kadar crkvice kakav je želio. Bio je visok i spretan, ali katkad je trebao moju pomoć pa bih mu, recimo, dodavala kofer s kamerama. A i ja sam se tada penjala, po nekim utorima... bilo je opasno, ali srećom sve je dobro prošlo. Također, da bismo došli do cilja i motiva koji smo željeli snimiti, nerijetko smo se probijali kroz nepregledne šikare, nisu nas mimoišle ni ogrebotine, ali na kraju smo bili zadovoljni jer smo ostvarili cilj. A kad je riječ o preprekama u životu, za mene one nikad nisu nepremostive. Naravno, problema uvijek ima, treba ih rješavati, ali nekad se riješe i sami od sebe.  Niste se specijalizirali samo za određenu vrstu fotografije, fotografirate sve. Sprijateljili ste se i s modernom tehnologijom, laptopom i digitalnom fotografijom. − Da, uistinu slikam sve. Arhitekturu, portrete, prirodu... Počela sam se baviti digitalnom fotografijom 2006. godine. Digitalna fotografija donijela nam je olakšanje jer ne morate više tegliti toliko teške opreme.

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01 Dolazi nam grad, 1960. Urban Sprawl, 1960 02 Plaža, Opatija, 1968. The Beach, Opatija, 1968

jenjenih umjetnosti i dizajna, neke zgrade u Draškovićevoj ulici... Teško je izdvojiti sve. Naravno i Gornji grad. Poznato je da je za dobru fotografiju uvijek važno dobro svjetlo. Primjerice, nije lako fotografirati crkvu svetog Marka na Gornjem gradu jer su neki njezini važni a zanimljivi dijelovi uvijek u sjeni. Sjećam se kako je jednog dana Tošo Dabac, koji je stanovao u blizini u Basaričekovoj ulici, pozvao mojeg supruga i rekao mu da dođe fotografirati crkvu svetog Marka na Badnjak jer su tada vrata otvorena i dobro je svjetlo. U fotografiji je jako važno uhvatiti trenutak jer ako niste dovoljno brzi, ono što želite fotografirati u času nestane, dobra se fotografija raspline za tren oka.  Mnogo ste izložba održali, mnogo je godina predanog rada iza vas. U povodu 70. godišnjice vašeg rada bila je postavljena vaša zapažena izložba pod naslovom Svijet vrijedan gledanja u Galeriji Kranjčar. Biste li mogli izdvojiti još neku izložbu koja je za vas bila posebna? − Izlagala sam dosta, teško je nešto posebno istaknuti, ali izdvojila bih možda

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izložbu održanu 2012. godine u La Cité internationale des arts u Parizu pod nazivom Croatie, la voici.  I dalje ste jako aktivni. Kako provodite dan? − Sve radim sama, jedino ne perem prozore. Doručkujem, ali nisam ovisnica o kavi, mogu krenuti u dan i bez kave. Poslije doručka krenem kroz grad i hodam, hodam...  Što biste rekli sa svojim ogromnim životnim iskustvom, kad je život bio bolji, nekad ili danas? − Meni je život uvijek dobar, lijep. Brata, sestru i mene mama je naučila da uvijek treba svakome pomoći. Kad tako radiš, život postaje lijep. Uvijek nastojim pomoći, ali i mnogi su ljudi meni pomogli.  Otkud vam toliki životni optimizam? − Svakako od roditelja. Moja mama je bila jako optimistična osoba, a tata tolerantan.  Još ste aktivni u Fotoklubu Zagreb, često ste pomagali mladima. − Jesam i jako volim taj fotoklub. Uvijek se nešto zanimljivo dogodi. Primjerice, nedavno je ondje postavljena izložba završnih radova učenika Škole primijenjenih umjetnosti i dizajna. Kakvi divni radovi, kakvi divni profesori! Na izložbi sam susrela toliko zanimljivih mladih ljudi s kojima sam razgovarala i osjećala kako su me odmah prihvatili. Mladi vole razgovarati sa mnom. To mi je jako drago.  Koje su po vašem mišljenju najvažnije ljudske osobine?

− Volim skromne, drage, nenametljive ljude. Odgovorne. Tako sam odgojena. Volim podržavati dobre ljude koji svojim radom i ophođenjem pridonose drugima, a izbjegavam sebične, pohlepne, one koje se precjenjuju... Nisu uzalud upravo te osobine i u religiji navedene kao smrtni grijesi. No imam sreću da uglavnom susrećem ljude koji nisu takvi, oko mene su uvijek dobri ljudi. Da nema dobrih ljudi, sve bi propalo. Sretna sam jer se dobro osjećam među fotografima. Uvijek s njima imam ugodne susrete, iskrene, to mi daje optimizam.  I danas ne stajete iako ste već u zlatnim godinama. Što je najvažnije da bi se i u tako poodmakloj dobi sačuvao vedar duh? − Važno je biti radoznao. Radoznalost obnavlja sive moždane stanice, a kad su one dobro, i mi smo dobro. I nikad ne gubiti interes za svijet oko nas, u kojem ima toliko divnih stvari.  U vašem životu sudbonosnu je nesumnjivo ulogu odigrao vlak. A kako stojite s avionima? − Milan je obožavao visinu. Mene je također letenje impresioniralo. Sjećam se jednog leta u Dubrovnik. Uzletimo u Zagrebu, gledam dolje Turopolje, uživam u pogledu na gaj, šumice, stazice, ali odjedanput uletimo u bijelo more. Iznad oblaka smo, kao iznad kakvog bijelog mora. I onda iznenada plavkaste nijanse. Blizu Dubrovnika nebo se sastaje s morem. Bile su to divne slike. 

ith eyes wide with amazement like the eyes of a curious little girl, at the age of 96, photographer Slavka Pavić continues to observe the world around her, go on walks, explore the world looking for novelty, reflect on the world, experiment, devote herself to details, and continues to work. This has been her world since 1946, when she first arrived in Zagreb from the town of Daruvar. Here, in Zagreb, to her great satisfaction, life went in a completely different direction than the one she had planned. But let us start from the beginning.  Tell us first about how your friendship with photography actually began, which, as we know, is largely due to your husband, Milan Pavić, a photojournalist working at the Photographic Documentation Agency, who gave you your first camera.

Važno je biti radoznao. Radoznalost obnavlja sive moždane stanice, a kad su one dobro, i mi smo dobro. I nikad ne gubiti interes za svijet oko nas u kojem ima toliko divnih stvari. Being curious is important. Curiosity keeps your brain’s grey matter alive, and when it is well, you’re also well. Never lose interest in the world around you, a world in which there are so many wonderful things.

− Before I came to Zagreb, I worked in a brewery in Daruvar. I wanted to study economics. I enrolled, but instead of moving to Zagreb I stayed in Daruvar, which meant that I travelled to Zagreb by train every day. That’s how I met my husband Milan. On a platform. Things unfolded quickly between us, spontaneously. I got married and moved to Zagreb. We had a beautiful life. We travelled a lot. In fact, Milan often travelled on business, and I always went with him. I started taking photographs alongside him, he encouraged me in it. I would always carry my camera, and Milan would carry our other belongings. In the past, cameras were a rarity, and only well-to-do people had one. Hikers, for instance. They always carried cameras along with their hiking equipment, which wasn’t exactly cheap. We too were like hikers as we also walked a lot, we loved to walk. Every time I look at my photo archive, I marvel at all the places we’ve been to over and over again.  Given your endless walks around Zagreb, which places are particularly dear to your heart, which places do you find to be particularly interesting? − One is the Bridge of Freedom. I’ve always admired it. I find it to be beautiful, elegant somehow, even today. That bridge has always lived a full life. Today, for example, newlyweds have their wedding photos taken there, young people have picnics near it, have fun, celebrate, bring balloons… I remember one particular photo I took near

that bridge a long time ago. A group of young men were playing football there, and there was a white Volkswagen beetle parked next to them. As soon as I saw that scene, I knew it would make a brilliant photograph. And it was. Another motif I’ve always liked to take photographs of in Zagreb are its trees. I love trees because they tell stories. I watch small trees growing speedily, and I marvel at the birches that quickly yellow, while there’s a line of green trees growing next to them. I love capturing those colours…  Your beginnings are tied to black and white photography. Which do you perceive to be closer to your heart? Colour or black and white photography? − Today, everything is in colour. Photos are in colour, television is in colour, the world is in colour… Of course, the photos I take today are also colour photos, but I’m very attached to black and white photography. It’s good that digital photographs can also be converted to black and white.  Photographers often have to overcome various obstacles to get a good photograph, the one they imagined. Both literally and figuratively. How have you overcome the obstacles you faced both in photography and in life? − Yes, photographers often climb heights, and get into dangerous situations. I not only walked a lot together with my husband, but we also often climbed. I remember one particular situation on the island of Mljet. He had to climb a height to get a shot of a

church the way he wanted it. He was tall and light-footed, but at times he needed my help, so I would, for example, pass him our camera suitcase. I too climbed that height, along some grooves… It was dangerous, but luckily everything went well. I also remember having to often make our way through endless thickets to get to where we wanted to get to, and to capture the motif we wanted to capture. We’d be covered in scratches, but it would always be worth it in the end because we’d achieve our goal. And as for obstacles in life, they’re never insurmountable as far as I’m concerned. There are always problems in life, of course. One must strive to solve them, but sometimes they have a way of resolving themselves.  You haven’t specialised in a particular type of photography. In fact, you photograph everything. You’ve also made friends with modern technology, laptops, and digital photography, haven’t you? − Yes, I really do take photographs of everything. Architecture, portraits, nature… I started taking digital photographs in 2006. Digital photography came as a relief because you no longer have to lug around so much heavy equipment.  Throughout your career, you have met many famous people, giants who are no longer with us. Greats such as Tin Ujević, Miroslav Krleža, Ranko Marinković… What were those meetings like for you? Has any left a deep impression on you?

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Slavka Pavić rođena je u Jajcu 1927. godine. Fotografijom se počela baviti ranih pedesetih i ostvarila antologijski opus. Održala je četrdesetak samostalnih i sudjelovala na više od 400 grupnih izložbi. Slike su joj u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt, Muzeju grada Zagreba, Muzeju suvremene umjetnosti, Etnografskom muzeju, Zbirci hrvatske fotografije Fotokluba Zagreb, u privatnim zbirkama. Jedna je od osnivačica Ženske sekcije Fotokluba Zagreb. Osvojila je više od 90 različitih priznanja i nagrada. Slavka Pavić was born in Jajce in 1927. She got involved in photography in the early 1950s, and created an exceptional oeuvre. She mounted some forty or so solo exhibitions, and participated in more than 400 group exhibitions. Her photographs are on view at the Museum of Arts and Crafts, the Zagreb City Museum, the Museum of Contemporary Art, the Ethnographic Museum, the Croatian Photography Collection at the Zagreb Photo Club, and in private collections. She is one of the founders of the Women’s Section of the Zagreb Photo Club, and is the recipient of more than 90 different recognitions and awards.

Šetači, Veli Lošinj, 1959. Pedestrians, Veli Lošinj, 1959

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− My husband had more contact with them than I did. An incalculable number of people passed through his documentation agency, some visited him because of work, some simply to see whether there was something new going on. I was always by his side, but when he photographed those great men, I would always discreetly move to the side. One should exhibit temperance in all that one does. Plato said this, and I’ve stuck to it my entire life.  It's a well-known fact that sometimes you liked going a step further, that you liked pushing back the boundaries, and experimenting in photography. Double exposure photography, photograms, etc. − I did. I experimented, and the result of those experiments were abstract photographs. What I found is that people like them. This gave me the chance to leave it up to other people to think whatever they

want about such abstract photos, and to conclude for themselves what meaning is behind them. I liked leaving things to other people's imagination, just like in abstract painting. I greatly admired our great painter Edo Murtić and his abstract Experience of America series of paintings.  Which of the other arts do you find interesting? − Painting and literature, most definitely. We have so many wonderful and successful literary festivals. I also have a lot of respect for architects. I like photographing architecture. Zagreb enjoyed a boom in architecture in the 1960s and 1970s. I like taking photographs of Zagreb’s Lower Town, its Art Nouveau buildings, the Croatian State Archives building, Bollé’s architecture, the Museum of Arts and Crafts, and the School of Applied Arts and Design, a number of buildings in Draškovićeva Street… It’s hard

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Kompozicija I, Velesajam Zagreb, 1956. Composition no. 1, Zagreb Fair, 1956

to single out any of them. Of course, I like capturing Zagreb’s Upper Town as well. It is a well-known fact that, for good photography, good lighting is a must. For instance, it’s rather difficult to take a good photograph of the Church of Saint Mark in the Upper Town because some of its important and interesting parts are always in shadow. I remember how one day Tošo Dabac, who lived nearby, in Basaričekova Street, telephoned my husband and urged him to come quickly and photograph the Church of Saint Mark on Christmas Eve because its doors were open and the lighting was good. In photography, capturing a moment is very important because if you’re not fast enough, whatever you want to photograph disappears momentarily, a good photo vanishes in the blink of an eye.  You have held many exhibitions. You’ve worked hard, and with dedication, for many years. To mark the 70th anniversary of your work as a photographer, the Kranjčar Gallery mounted a notable exhibition of your oeuvre called A World Worth Seeing. Could you perhaps single out another exhibition of yours that you thought was special? − I have exhibited a lot, but it’s difficult to single out a particular exhibition. I would perhaps single out the exhibition held in 2012 at La Cité internationale des arts in Paris called Croatie, la voici.  You’re still very active. What is your day like? How do you like to spend your day?

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− I do everything myself, except wash the windows. I have breakfast, but I’m not a coffee addict, I can start the day without a cup of coffee. After breakfast, I go to town and walk, and walk…  Given your vast life experience, was life better back in the day or is it better now? − For me, life is always good, life’s beautiful. My mother taught my brother, sister and me that you should always help everyone who needs help. When you approach life that way, life becomes beautiful. I always try to help, and many people have helped me too.  Where does this great optimism of yours in life come from? − Most definitely from my parents. My mother was a very optimistic person, and my father very tolerant.  You’re still active at the Zagreb Photo Club. You’ve often helped young people. − I am. I really love that photo club. There’s always something interesting happening there. Just recently, for example, an exhibition of the works of graduates of the School of Applied Arts and Design was held there. What wonderful works, what wonderful teachers! At the exhibition, I met so many interesting young people with whom I spoke. I felt immediately accepted by them. Young people like talking to me. I am very grateful for that.  What are the most important human qualities in your opinion? − I like modest, kind, unobtrusive people. Responsible people. That’s how I was raised. I like supporting good people who

contribute to the welfare of others with their work and conduct, and I avoid selfish, greedy people, those who have an inflated idea of themselves. It is not for nothing that religion lists exactly these qualities as mortal sins. I am fortunate in that the vast majority of people I meet aren’t like that, I am always surrounded by good people. If there weren’t any good people around, all would be lost. I’m happy because I feel good amongst photographers. My encounters with them are always pleasant and truthful, that gives me optimism.  Even though you’re approaching 100, you don’t seem to be taking it easy or slowing down. What’s the most important thing you do to be in high spirits at your age? − Being curious is important. Curiosity keeps your brain’s grey matter alive, and when it is well, you’re also well. Never lose interest in the world around you, a world in which there are so many wonderful things.  Trains undoubtedly played a crucial role in your life. How do you feel about flying? − Milan adored heights. I too was impressed by flying. I remember one flight to Dubrovnik. We take off from Zagreb, I’m looking down at Turopolje, I’m enjoying the view of the groves, the forests, the paths, and all of a sudden, we fly into a white sea. We’re above the clouds now, we’re above a white sea of sorts. And then, out of the blue, shades of blue start appearing. Near Dubrovnik, the sky starts meeting the sea. What a wonderful view that was! 

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Vrijeme kao stvoreno za posjetiteljske centre Hladni zimski dani ili loši vremenski uvjeti idealni su za kvalitetno provođenje vremena na toplom. Posjetiteljski centri i muzeji mjesto su na kojem ćete provesti zanimljivo vrijeme, saznati mnoštvo novih činjenica i dobro se provesti. Zato, u nastavku vas vodimo kroz mjesta koja biste trebali staviti u planer za svoja nadolazeća putovanja ili kratke izlete.

Terra Panonica

Interpretacijski centar u Pleternici odvest će vas 24 milijuna godina u prošlost, u vrijeme kad je na ovom području postojalo Panonsko more.

Kuća Velebita

U Krasnom ćete upoznati biljni i životinjski svijet Velebita ali i krajobraznu raznolikost ove planine. Ponikve, grede, kukovi i škrape samo su neki od krških oblika Velebita. Upoznajte i endemične biljne vrste prilagođene ekstremnim životnim uvjetima.

Centar za posjetitelje Poklon

U parku prirode Učka smjestio se multimedijalni interpretacijski postav u kojem možete upoznati prirodnu, kulturnu i povijesnu vrijednost Učke te njegovu potrebu za zaštitom i očuvanjem.

Posjetiteljski centar Durđevački pijesci

U Đurđevcu možete saznati sve o jedinstvenosti ovog područja, bogatstvu i raznolikosti biljnog i životinjskog svijeta koji živi na pijescima neovisno o godišnjem dobu i vremenskim uvjetima.

Centar za posjetitelje Velike zvijeri u Staroj Sušici

Medvjed, vuk i ris velike su zvijeri Gorskog kotara. Zastanite u slikovitom frankopanskom dvorcu s crkvicom Sv. Antuna Padovanskog, uz staru Karolinsku cestu i upoznajte čaroban svijet zvijeri.

Muzej betinske drvene brodogradnje

Vrhunac umijeća betinskih brodograditelja može se sažeti u betinskoj gajeti, drvenom brodu čije je umijeće gradnje uvršteno u Registar kulturnih dobara RH kao nematerijalna kulturna baština.

Posjetiteljski centar Sošice na Žumberku

1 Medvedgrad, Julien Duval / Zagreb Tourist Board 2 Učka, Luka Tambača 3 Dvorac stara Sušica, Zoran Jelača 4 Pleternica, Cesta ruža i vina, Ivo Biočina 5 Biciklisti, Krasno Polje, Ivan Šardi

Upoznajte duh Žumberka kroz priče i legende, doživite prošlost i biološku raznolikost zaštićenog područja.

Centar za posjetitelje Medvedgrad

Upoznajte se s legendama o Crnoj Kraljici, copernicama i vladarima Medvedgrada. Na interaktivan način doživite biljni i životinjski svijet koji obitava na Medvednici. 2

PROMO

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discover your story at croatia.hr

It’s time to explore – visitor centers in Croatia Cold winter days or poor weather conditions are ideal for spending quality time in a warm place. Visitor centers and museums are where you will learn a lot of new facts, and have a good time. Therefore, below, we guide you through the places you should put in your planner for your upcoming trips.

Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding in Betina

Terra Panonica

Visitor Center Sošice on Žumberak

The interpretation center in Pleternica will take you 24 million years into the past, to the time when the Pannonian Sea existed in this area.

House of Velebit

Medvedgrad Visitor Center

The pinnacle of the craft of Betina shipbuilders can be summed up in the Betina gajeta, a wooden ship whose craftsmanship is included in the Register of Cultural Properties of the Republic of Croatia as an intangible cultural heritage.

Get to know the spirit of Žumberek through stories and legends, and experience the past and biological diversity of the protected area.

Learn the legends about the Black Queen, and the rulers of Medvedgrad. Experience the plant and animal life that inhabits Medvednica.

Large Carnivores Visitor Center in Stara Sušica

Bear, wolf, and lynx are the large carnivores of Gorski Kotar. Stop in the picturesque Frankopan castle with the small church, along the old Karolinska road, and get to know the magical world of animals.

In Krasno, you will get to know Velebit’s flora and fauna, as well as this mountain’s landscape diversity. Dips, beams, hips, and scraps are just some of the karst forms of Velebit.

Poklon Visitor Center

The Učka nature park has a multimedia interpretation display where you can learn about the natural, cultural, and historical value of Učka and its need for protection and preservation.

Durđevački pijesci visitor center

Did you know that Croatia has its desert? In Đurđevac, you can find out everything about the uniqueness of this area, the wealth and diversity of flora and fauna that lives on the sands regardless of the season and weather conditions.

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UMJETNOST ART

AN ENDURING MYTH Nađete li se ove zime u Zagrebu, imat ćete rijetku privilegiju susreta s opusom Ivana Meštrovića, najznačajnijeg hrvatskog umjetnika svjetskoga glasa. Izložba u Klovićevim dvorima ispričat će priču kroz kiparski opus kao najupečatljiviji segment stvaralaštva ovog svestranog umjetnika, kipara, slikara, arhitekta i pisca. If you happen to be in Zagreb this winter, you’ll have the rare opportunity and privilege to take pleasure in the works of Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s greatest artist of world renown. The exhibition at the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery tells the story of Meštrović’s work through his sculptural oeuvre, which is the most impressive segment of the creativity of this versatile artist, sculptor, painter, architect, and writer.

PIŠE/BY __ Petra Vugrinec

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Autoportret, Zagreb, 1932., sadra, Kolekcija Vugrinec, Varaždin Self-portrait, Zagreb, 1932, plaster, Vugrinec Collection, Varaždin

G. Vranić

alerija Klovićevi dvori i Muzeji Ivana Meštrovića nakon dugogodišnjih priprema, a u prigodi 140. obljetnice umjetnikova rođenja, organiziraju spektakularan pregled Meštrovićeva stvaralaštva koje će biti predstavljeno na tri etaže i gotovo tri tisuće kvadratnih metara izložbenog prostora. Na izložbi će biti prikazano više od dvije stotine Meštrovićevih radova koji predstavljaju presjek najznačajnijih faza umjetnikova prebogatog opusa. Galerija Klovićevi dvori središnja je institucija za obožavatelje likovne umjetnosti koja već puna četiri desetljeća priređuje izložbene poslastice koje privlače tisuće posjetitelja. Obrađujući opuse hrvatskih umjetnika, priređujući velike izložbe nacionalne i međunarodne baštine, kao i blockbuster izložbe velikih majstora svjetske umjetnosti, ova se umjetnička institucija upisala na kartu relevantnih muzejsko-galerijskih ustanova kojima je posjet obvezan pri obilasku europskih metropola. Ivan Meštrović (Vrpolje, 1883. − South Bend, 1962.), ključna je umjetnička ličnost Hrvatske te je kroz našu bremenitu povijest bio nositelj kulturno-umjetničkog progresa u vrijeme kada je Hrvatska bila dijelom Austro-Ugarske Monarhije, Kraljevine Srba, Hrvata i Slovenaca pa

G. Vranić

čak i u vrijeme Socijalističke Federativne Republike Jugoslavije, kada ga je predsjednik Tito kao političkog emigranta pozvao da se vrati u domovinu priznajući mu, iako političkom oponentu, ključnu ulogu u kulturno-povijesnom identitetu naših naroda. Meštrovićeva veličina i značaj obrnuto su proporcionalni skromnom porijeklu hrvatskog kipara iz Dalmatinske zagore, nepoznatog kraja u zaleđu, vjekovnoga limesa na razmeđu Osmanskog Carstva i predziđa Europe. Dječak iz malenih Otavica, pastir sa Svilaje, u drvu i mekom kamenu muljici izrađuje prve skulpture s ljudskim likom i piše pjesme u narodnom desetercu. Sa 16 godina odlazi u klesarsku radionicu Pavla Bilinića u Splitu, gdje ga podučavaju talijanski majstori. Od prvoga ozbiljnijeg mecene Aleksandra Königa, vlasnika Dalmatinskih rudokopa, dobiva novčanu pomoć za školovanje te odlazi u Beč, gdje 1901. godine upisuje bečku Akademiju likovnih umjetnosti, a nakon te diplome i studij arhitekture. Zahvaljujući redovitim nastupima na izložbama Udruženja likovnih umjetnika Austrije − Secesija, zadobiva pažnju jednog od najzaslužnijih mecena secesije, bečkog industrijalca Karla Wittgensteina (1847. − 1913.), za kojeg će ostvariti

brojne narudžbe. Godine 1902. na bečkoj Akademiji susreće se s Augusteom Rodinom, umjetnikom koji će uvelike odrediti njegove stvaralačke početke te s kojim će se družiti tijekom svojega boravka u Parizu (1908. − 1909.) i Rimu (1914.), a koji će ga, zadivljen njegovim talentom i lakoćom stvaranja, proglasiti svojim nasljednikom. Sa samo 22 godine stvara kiparsko remek-djelo Zdenac života (1905.), koje će označiti prekretnicu u umjetničkom životu Zagreba i Hrvatske. Djelo je otkupila tadašnja vlada te se i danas nalazi ispred zgrade Hrvatskog narodnog kazališta i jedno je od omiljenih okupljališta mladih, Meštrovićevih vršnjaka iz vremena kada je stvarao ovo djelo puno intimne simbolike i raskošnog kreativnog pregnuća. Odlaskom u Pariz 1908. godine počinje stvarati vlastiti ideološki univerzum, drevne junake objedinjene pod nazivom Kosovski ciklus. Svojevrstan je to višegodišnji manifest umjetnosti nacionalnih obilježja nadahnut folklorom i junačkim narodnim pjesmama. Uključuje skulpture junaka iz borbe s Osmanlijama, protagoniste Kosovske bitke iz davne 1369. godine, koja je oslabila tursku vojsku u prodiranju prema zapadu. Meštroviće-

Izložbena dvorana Galerije Klovićevi dvori sa simbolističkim djelima Ivana Meštrovića An exhibition hall of the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery with Ivan Meštrović’s symbolist sculptures on display

vi heroji titani su slavenske tipologije, a ustvari portreti sunarodnjaka čiju je jedinstvenost i rijetko očuvanu arhaiku uočio već talijanski putopisac Alberto Fortis putujući dalmatinskim zaleđem (Viaggio in Dalmazia, Venecija, 1774.), kada ih je kao Morlake proslavio diljem Europe. Bili su snažni, izdržljivi i ponosni, karakteristične fizionomije nalik škrtom krškom području kamenjara iz kojeg su izniknuli. Njima je Meštrović osvajao svijet, oni su ga lansirali u orbitu umjetničke slave i osigurali mu nagrade te sudjelovanje na najznačajnijim izložbama u Europi i svijetu. Ova će izložba sve njih objediniti te će posjetitelji imati jedinstvenu priliku susreta s impozantnim herojskim skulpturama, bezvremenskim aktovima, brojnim portretima suvremenika, kao i djelima intimne simbolike otjelotvorenim u drvu, mramoru ili odlivenim u bronci. Pred Prvi svjetski rat posvećuje se

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Ivana Meštrovića. Tom je darovnicom postao jedan od najvećih donatora Republici Hrvatskoj. Izložba u Klovićevim dvorima ispričat će priču o najznačajnijoj umjetničkoj ličnosti 20. stoljeća s ovih prostora kroz kiparski opus kao najupečatljiviji segment stvaralaštva ovog svestranog umjetnika, kipara, slikara, arhitekta i pisca. Grad Zagreb i sam je široka pozornica Meštrovićeve plastične i arhitektonske umjetnosti pa šećući njime upoznajte Nikolu Teslu nadomak Cvjetnoga trga, Josipa Jurja Strossmayera ispred palače HAZU-a, Andriju Medulića ispred Umjetničkog paviljona, obiđite iznimnu arhitektonsku kružnicu HDLU-a i svakako bacite novčić u Zdenac života kod nacionalnog kazališta i ne zaboravite zaželjeti želju. Poželjet ćete zasigurno upoznati umjetnost što čeka iza zidova baroknog zdanja jezuitskog samostana u kojem se smjestila Galerija Klovićevi dvori. Ne propustite upoznati Ivana Meštrovića, malenog čovjeka, božanski nadahnutog. 

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sakralnoj tematici i priklanja se ekspresionističkom stilu. Tijekom rata, kao član Jugoslavenskog odbora politički je aktivan u Parizu i Londonu. Nakon rata vratio se u domovinu te postaje rektor Akademije i spiritus movens kulturno-umjetničkog života glavnoga grada. Stvara djela inspirirana vrhuncima umjetničke tradicije klasičnom antikom, egipatskom i perzijskom umjetnošću u stilu art decoa i neoklasičnih tendencija. Vrhunac popularnosti doživljava turnejom po američkim gradovima od New Yorka do Chicaga, gdje će svoj trag ostaviti čuvenim Spomenikom Indijancima iz 1927. godine. Kao politički ideolog glasno je i dosljedno izražavao političke stavove ne odričući se u mijenama političkih sustava i turbulentnim ratnim vremenima svojeg domoljublja i osebujnog nacionalizma motiviranog velikom angažiranošću za vlastiti narod. Godine 1942. emigrirao je u Italiju i Švicarsku, a 1947. u Ameriku, gdje postaje profesor kiparstva na Sveučilištu u Syracuseu, a potom od 1955. na Sveučilištu Notre Dame u South Bendu. Nakon Drugog svjetskog rata bit će prvi živući umjetnik kojemu je Metropolitan Museum u New Yorku organizirao izložbu. Svojom Darovnicom hrvatskome narodu iz 1952. godine daruje brojna remek-djela, impresivnu arhitekturu i oplemenjene prostore pa posjetitelji Zagreba, Splita i rodnih Otavica imaju priliku uživati u stotinama njegovih djela kojima upravljaju Muzeji

fter many years of preparations, to mark the 140th anniversary of Ivan Meštrović’s birth, the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery and the Ivan Meštrović Museums are mounting a spectacular retrospective of his work. Staged on as many as three floors and almost three thousand square metres of exhibition space, the retrospective will be showcasing more than two hundred works

by Meštrović that represent a cross-section of the most pivotal phases of the artist’s prolific oeuvre. A leading fine arts institution, the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery has been setting up exhibitions which always go down a treat, and which have been attracting thousands and thousands of art lovers and visitors for four decades already. By curating the works of Croatian artists, and organising large-scale national, world heritage, and blockbuster exhibitions of the world’s greatest masters of art, the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery has been put on the map of relevant museums and galleries, and is a must-see fine arts institution on your tour of Europe’s capital cities. A leading Croatian artist, Ivan Meštrović (Vrpolje, 1883 − South Bend, 1962) was, throughout our fraught history, at the vanguard of advancements in culture and the arts at a time when Croatia was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, then the Kingdom

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01 Mojsije, Rim, 1918., botticino mramor, Atelijer Meštrović, Zagreb Moses, Rome, 1918, Botticino marble, Meštrović Atelier, Zagreb

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02 Zdenac života, Beč, 1905., sadra, Atelijer Meštrović, Zagreb The Well of Life, Vienna, 1905, plaster, Meštrović Atelier, Zagreb

Usvajajući klasične kanone, ne odustajući od izvornog nadahnuća vlastitoga kraja, čija ga je morfologija odredila, Meštrović je svojim čudesnim talentom zadivio Europu, o njemu su nadahnuto pisali najznačajniji likovni kritičari 20. stoljeća. Od malenog pastira iz zaboravljene provincije velikoga carstva postao je građanin svijeta, umjetnik kojemu će se klanjati arbitri političkih zbivanja, znanstvenici svjetskoga glasa, pripadnici aristokracije i bogate buržoazije, poput kraljevske dinastije Karađorđević, koja ga je proglasila službenim umjetnikom Kraljevine, Nikole Tesle, koji mu se otvoreno divio, američkog predsjednika Eisenhowera, koji mu je osobno uručio državljanstvo, te brojnih crkvenih i političkih velikodostojnika (T. G. Masaryk), književnika (Maksim Gorki) i umjetnika svjetskoga glasa. Meštrović je bio prvi umjetnik nakon Rodina kojemu je 1915. godine priređena samostalna izložba u Victoria & Albert muzeju u Londonu. By having adopted the canon of the classics, without abandoning his motherland as a source of inspiration whose morphology had defined him, Ivan Meštrović swept Europe away, while his exceptional talent was written about rivetingly by leading 20th century art critics. Having started out as a shepherd boy who had lived in a godforsaken province of G. Vranić

a once great empire, he became a citizen of the world, an artist who was destined to be admired by the arbiters of political circumstances; world-renowned scientists; members of the aristocracy and the wealthy bourgeoisie, such as the royal Karađorđević Dynasty, who declared him the official state artist of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes; Nikola Tesla, who openly praised him; the US President Eisenhower, who handed him his US Certificate of Citizenship in person; and countless church and political dignitaries, such as Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk; writers, such as Maxim Gorky; and world-renowned artists. Similarly, the first artist to have had a solo exhibition set up after Rodin at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London in 1915 was − Ivan Meštrović.

Kontemplacija, Zagreb, 1924., mramor carrara, Galerija Meštrović, Split Contemplation, Zagreb, 1924, Carrara marble, Meštrović Gallery, Split

of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, and finally the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. Although Meštrović emigrated for political reasons because he opposed President Tito’s politics, he was nevertheless invited by President Tito to return to his homeland because Tito recognised that Meštrović played a key role in shaping the cultural and historical identity of the peoples of Yugoslavia. Meštrović’s greatness and importance are inversely proportional to his humble origins in Dalmatian Zagora, a forlorn region in the hinterland of Dalmatia, and a centuries-old frontier between the Ottoman Empire and the strongholds of Europe. Ivan Meštrović, a boy from the small village of Otavice, a

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was purchased from the then government to be mounted right outside the building of the Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb, which is where it stands to this day, and is a popular spot where today’s youths love to hang out, youths that would have been Meštrović’s peers at 22 when he created this sculpture brimming with intimate symbolism and impressive creative endeavour. Meštrović moved to Paris in 1908, when he began to create his own ideological universe, ancient heroes united under the umbrella title of the Kosovo Cycle, a multi-year manifesto of sorts of the art of national characters inspired by folklore and heroic folk songs. The cycle includes sculptures of heroes from battles against the Ottomans, the protagonists of the Battle of Kosovo from back in 1369, which weakened the Ottoman army’s westward offensive and expansion. Meštrović’s heroes are titans of Slavic typology. In actuality, they’re portraits of his fellow countrymen, whose uniqueness and rarely preserved archaism had already been taken note of by the Italian travel writer Alberto Fortis during his travels through Dalmatia’s hinterland (Viaggio in Dalmazia, Venice, 1774), with which he made them famous throughout Europe as Morlachs or Nigri Latini. They were strong, hardy, and proud people, whose distinctive facial features and body build are strongly reminiscent of the barren karst landscape

01 Gospa s Djetetom, Cannes, 1917., orahovina, Atelijer Meštrović, Zagreb The Madonna and Child, Cannes, 1917, walnut, Meštrović Atelier, Zagreb 02 Izložbena dvorana Galerije Klovićevi dvori sa skulpturama Sjećanje, Olga Meštrović i Čekanje An exhibition hall of the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery with Ivan Meštrović’s sculptures Reminiscence, Olga Meštrović, and Waiting on display

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shepherd from the Svilaja Mountain Range, carved his first human figures in wood and soft mudstone, and wrote decasyllabic folk poetry. At the age of 16, he enrolled for Pavao Bilinić’s stonemason’s workshop in Split, where he was taught by Italian masters. Having received financial help for his education from Alexander König, a mining industrialist and his first major patron, Meštrović moved to Vienna, where in 1901 he was admitted to the Vienna Academy of Fine Arts, after which he also studied architecture. Thanks to regularly participating in the exhibitions of the Vienna Secession Association of Visual Artists, he caught the attention of one of the most deserving patrons of the Vienna Secession art movement, also known as Art Nouveau. The patron in question was the Viennese industrialist Karl Wittgenstein (1847-1913), from whom Meštrović received many commissions. At the Vienna Academy of Fine Arts in 1902 he met Auguste Rodin, an artist who had a formative influence on Meštrović’s creative beginnings, whom Meštrović associated with during his stay in Paris (1908-1909) and Rome (1914), and who, amazed by Meštrović’s talent and ease of creation, declared Meštrović to be his successor. It was at the age of only 22 that he sculpted The Well of Life (1905), a sculptural masterpiece which marked a turning point in Zagreb and Croatia’s arts scene. The sculpture

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which had shaped them. It is with them that Meštrović conquered the world, it was them that catapulted him to fame in the world of art, winning him awards and the chance to partake in some of the most prestigious and biggest exhibitions in Europe and the world. This exhibition unites them all. This means that you’ll have a rare opportunity to come face to face with his imposing heroic sculptures, timeless nudes, many of his portraits of his contemporaries, and his sculptures bursting with intimate symbolism chiselled in wood and marble or cast in bronze. On the eve of World War I, Meštrović devoted himself to sacral themes whilst exploring the style of Expressionism. During the Great War, he was politically active in both Paris and London. After the war, he returned to his homeland, and became the rector of the Academy of Fine Arts, and the moving spirit of Zagreb’s arts and culture scene. He sculpted works inspired by the peaks of the artistic traditions of Classical Antiquity, and Egyptian and Persian art in the style of Art Deco and Neoclassical tendencies. His popularity peaked thanks to his tour of the US cities of New York and Chicago, where he left his mark with his famous Equestrian Indians statues from 1927. As a political ideologue, he expressed his political

views loudly and consistently without ever renouncing his patriotism and distinctive nationalism which was motivated by great commitment to his own people during changes to the political system and the turbulent years of the war. In 1942 he emigrated, first to Italy and then to Switzerland, and in 1947 to the USA, where he became a professor of sculpture, first at Syracuse University, and then at the University of Notre Dame in South Bend in 1955. After World War II, he was the first living artist for whom the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York organised an exhibition. In 1952 he bequeathed countless of his masterpieces, impressive architecture and refined spaces to the Croatian people. This means that visitors to Zagreb, Split, and his native village of Otavice today have the chance to enjoy hundreds of his works managed by the Ivan Meštrović Museums. This donation makes Meštrović one of the biggest donors to the Republic of Croatia. The exhibition at the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery tells the story of the most prominent artist of the 20th century from this part of the world through his sculptural oeuvre, which is the most impressive segment of the creativity of this versatile artist, sculptor, painter, architect, and writer. The city of Zagreb is itself

Izložbena dvorana Galerije Klovićevi dvori sa skulpturama iz Kosovskog ciklusa An exhibition hall of the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery with Ivan Meštrović’s sculptures from the Kosovo Cycle on display

a wide stage where many of Meštrović’s free-standing sculptures are erected and architecture found. By taking a walk through the city, you’ll get to meet Nikola Tesla near the Flower Square, Josip Juraj Strossmayer outside the palace housing the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, and Andrija Medulić outside the Art Pavilion. Be sure to also check out the exceptional architectural rotunda today housing the Croatian Association of Visual Artists, and toss a coin into The Well of Life outside the Croatian National Theatre, where you must remember to make a wish, one of which will surely be wanting to get to know the art that awaits you behind the walls of the baroque building of a once Jesuit monastery, which today houses the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery. This is where you’ll meet Ivan Meštrović − a little man inspired by God. 

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KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA CONTINENTAL CROATIA

TEKST I FOTOGRAFIJE/TEXT AND PHOTOS _

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Stjenovit i tektonski razlomljen Kalnik sa svojim poznatim hrptom prva je gora Hrvatskog zagorja, brežuljkastog dijela Hrvatske s raštrkanim naseljima, vinogradima, malim poljima, šumarcima i dvorcima. Osvojite njegove stjenovite zube i drevne zidine. Rocky and tectonically fractured Kalnik with its famous ridge is the first mount of the region of Hrvatsko Zagorje, which translates as Croatian Uplands, a hilly part of Croatia scattered with villages, vineyards, small fields, forests, and castles. Why not conquer its rocky teeth and ancient walls.

Pogled s kalničkih zuba na stari grad u jesenskom ambijentu A view of the old town of Kalnik from one of Kalnik’s teeth in autumnal attire

anonski dio Hrvatske prostrane su nizine dolina rijeke Mure, Drave i Save, a između njih uzdižu se manje gore. Nisu ni visoke ni krševite kao Dinaridi u obalnom pojasu, to su zeleni otoci usred davno kultiviranih nizina. Kalnik se smjestio u okolici malog mjesta Križevci na željezničkoj pruzi Zagreb − Budimpešta. To je mala, ali vrlo zanimljiva gora u panonskom dijelu Hrvatske, poznata po svojim stjenovitim vrhovima, starom gradu te bogatoj prirodi. Strši izdaleka gledana iz ravnice, a visoka je samo 642 metra, tek tristotinjak metara više od okolnog prostora. Na vrhu Vranilac nalazi se telekomunikacijski toranj čija se vitka silueta za vedrog dana razabire s nekoliko desetaka kilometara. Izbliza se monolitna struktura razbija u strm i stjenoviti greben, kamena kralježnica toliko strana ovom pitomom krajoliku meke zemlje. Potječu još iz mezozoika, kada su površinom planeta kročili veliki dinosauri. Te su stijene kroz eone otapale kiše, šibao vjetar i ostali elementi prirode, a ostalo je stršati iz guste šume sedam uzvišenja, sedam zubi kako ih sada zovemo. Ti stjenoviti zubi poprilično su strmi, a vapnenac lomljiv i poveći je izazov

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verati se oko njih. Na sreću, planinarska staza povezuje zube i pomaže i manje iskusnima i vještima da iskuse užitak osvajanja vrhova te pogleda na panonsku ravnicu s poljima i selima. Većina uspona ima i lakšu i težu varijantu, odnosno stazu, ovisno o fizičkim mogućnostima i želji za avanturizmom. Ipak, treba stalno biti oprezan i rukama se pridržavati za stijene. Za osvajanje svih zubi treba nekoliko sati, idući od nižih prema sve višima. Nakon napornog uspona, vikendom se može okrijepiti i utažiti glad u lijepom planinarskom domu podno prvog zuba, u ugodnom ambijentu šume i livade. To je velik dom s dvije velike blagovaonice i kuhinjom u prizemlju te 11 spavaonica na katu. Do njega vodi asfaltna cesta pa je to i polazišna točka za osvajanje i istraživanje Kalnika. I dok čovjek ujesen uživa na suncu na drvenoj klupi, a ljeti u spasonosnoj sjeni uz okrepljujući napitak, odmah preko puta još je jedna atrakcija Kalnika, visoko na kiklopskoj stijeni, kao da je izrasla utvrda iz bajke. Stare ruševine zaigrat će maštu posjetitelja, no stvarna povijest nije nimalo manje zanimljiva. Ove su stare građevine nastale kao kompleks utvrda u 12. stoljeću, a prvi se put spominje stoljeće kasnije jer je upravo na ovome mjestu zaustavljen prodor Mongola. Povijest kaže da su Mongoli došli pod Veliki Kalnik u jesen 1241. godine. Nakon neuspješnog osvajanja na juriš, odlučili su dugotrajnom opsadom izgladnjeti branitelje. Vrijeme je prolazilo, junački su borci izdržali, a Mongoli su odustali od opsade i krenuli dalje u smjeru Jadrana u potjeru za kraljem Belom IV., koji se sakrio na otoku Cresu. Legenda kaže da je lokalno stanovništvo

01 Pogled sa staroga grada na vrh Kalnika A view of Kalnik’s mountaintop from the old town of Kalnik 02 Zračna snimka staroga grada An aerial view of the old town of Kalnik 03 Sportsko penjalište na Kalniku Sport climbing on Mount Kalnik

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Na većini Kalnika prevladavaju šume, osim na najnižim i rubnim dijelovima gdje su ljudi zasadili vinograde i voćnjake te obrađuju polja te kose travu. U najnižem pojasu šuma dolazi hrast kitnjak, na osunčanim padinama čak i hrast medunac, inače dominantna vrsta udaljenog mediterana. Na nešto većim visinama, već od 350 metara, umjesto hrasta prevladavaju bukove šume. To je u Europi izrazito bogata zajednica zbog ilirskih vrsta rasprostranjenih na ovim krajevima, preživjelih za ledenih doba dok su u srednjoj i sjevernoj Europi izumrle pa su neke od njih danas endemi. Prirodno bogatstvo Kalnika znatno

hranilo kralja i pratnju šljivama pa su dobili naziv šljivari. Za nagradu im je Bela IV. dodijelio plemićke naslove. Nadolazećim stoljećima utvrdu su koristili i drugi vladari, ovdje su koje stoljeće kasnije zaustavljeni i Osmanlije, no prestanak opasnosti i potrebe za održavanjem te zub vremena polako su stari grad pretvorili u ruševine. Posjet drevnim zidinama nije nimalo lakši nego uspon na stjenovite zube jer strme će stepenice ukrasti dah i fizički najspremnijima. Prolazi se kroz negdašnje prostorije i hodnike, iako sad golih zidova i bez krovova, i može se zamisliti kako su nekoć ljudi ovdje živjeli. Vrtoglavi pogled na podnožje s nekih od uskih prozora

danas više ne pruža pogled na Mongole, već samo miroljubive planinare i ljubitelje prirode. Neki od njih opet pokušavaju osvojiti Kalnik, no uz pomoć planinarskih užeta i drugih naprava. Dakako, to su sportski penjači jer okomite kamene litica pravi su izazov. Preko 200 smjerova, odnosno penjačkih staza magnet su za mnoge sportaše. Na najvišem vrhu Kalnika, postavljena je ferata, osigurani alpinistički put kroz stijenu u dužini 60 metara. Po uzoru na ferate u drugim europskim zemljama, staza je osigurana čeličnim sajlama po kamenoj litici, a penje se uz pomoć alpinističke opreme. Ova je ferata osim užitka osvajanja Kalnika osmišljena

povećavaju livade, naročito one s orhidejama. Tu su i mali mozaici, kultivirani prostori šumaraka, živica i voćnjaka. U posebnom botaničkom rezervatu Mali Kalnik, kojim dominira velika i strma stijena izložena jugu, rastu i mediteranske, ilirske i alpske biljke. Posebno su izraženi alpski jaglac, grozdasta kamenika, zlatni ljiljan i ostale. Most of Mount Kalnik is dominated by forests, except for its lowest and marginal parts, where people have planted vineyards and orchards, where they cultivate fields and mow grass. The lowest zone of the forest is the home of the sessile oak, its sunny slopes even of the downy oak, which is typically dominant in the faraway Mediterranean. At slightly higher altitudes − at 350 metres above sea level and up, that is − the oaks are replaced by beeches. This is Europe’s extremely rich community of trees thanks to the Illyrian deciduous species spread in these regions, where they survived the ice ages unlike in Central and Northern Europe where they died out, which today makes them an endemic species. The surrounding meadows, especially those with orchids growing on them, greatly increase Kalnik’s natural capital. It’s also spotted with small mosaic pieces − cultivated groves, hedges, and orchards. Likewise, the Mali Kalnik Special Botanical Reserve, which is dominated by a large and steep rock facing the south, is the home of Mediterranean, Illyrian, and Alpine plants, from amongst which the mountain cowslip or bear’s ear, the saxi-

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Životinjski svijet šume tipičan za panonske prostore bogat je, ali danas bez velikih zvijeri, odavno protjeranih u mnogo više planine. U zoru ili sumrak iz šume na livade izlaze srne na pašu, a ponegdje ima i jelena. Lisice ophode terenom, a skrivaju se i potomstvo podižu u nastambama u zemlji, baš kao i jazavac. Šumama se noću šulja i skrovita divlja mačka. U šumama su i bogate zajednice ptica, od manjih sjenica, brgljeza, crvendaća do djetlića i žuna, koje dube duplje i stvaraju prostor za gniježđenje ostalih ptica. Na njih u zasjedi vrebaju jastreb i kobac, vješti letači između krošanja. Škanjac je sporiji letač, vidimo kako kruži visoko dok traži plijen na čistini kamo i slijeće te onda čeka. Uz krš i kamenje Kalnika živi i naša najopasnija zmija poskok, izolirana od svoje glavne populacije na Dinaridima. Treba stoga dobro paziti kod penjanja na stijenama, naročito u rano proljeće kad se ovi hladnokrvni organizmi sunčaju i griju tijekom cijelog dana. Opasnost na sreću ne vreba od velikog i šarenog zelembaća, koji također voli sunčanje na stijenama. The animal world of the forests of Mount Kalnik is typically Pannonian. It is rich, but no large carnivores live in the forests. They had long since been banished to much higher altitudes. At dawn or at dusk, roe deer come out of the forest to graze on the meadows, and in some places, you’ll also spot red deer. Foxes police the terrain while hiding and raising their offspring in dwellings in the ground or dens, just like badgers. Secretive wild cats also pussyfoot around the forest at night. The forest is also the home of rich communities of birds, from small tits or chickadees, Eurasian nuthatches, European robins to woodpeckers and picuses that peck at the trunk of trees in search of food. What they leave behind are holes that other birds then use as nests. Flying masterfully between the treetops, Eurasian goshawks and sparrowhawks lie in ambush. You’ll also spot common buzzards. Although they fly at a slower speed than the latter two birds of prey, you’ll see them circling high in the sky on the lookout for prey in the clearings, where they land and then wait. The karst and rocks of Mount Kalnik are also the home of Croatia’s most venomous snake, the horned viper, isolated from its main population in the Dinarides. While climbing the rocks, keep a sharp lookout for them, particularly in early spring when these cold-blooded animals spend day after day sunbathing and trying to warm themselves. The large and coloured European green lizard also likes to sunbathe on the rocks, but fortunately it poses no threat whatsoever to humans.

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01 Stari grad u zimskom ambijentu The old town of Kalnik in wintery attire 02 Crkva u selu podno Kalnika A church in the village at the foot of Mount Kalnik 03 Planinarski dom u snijegu Kalnik’s mountain lodge under a blanket of snow

i kao vježbalište za planinare koji žele pohoditi viša gorja i savladavati zahtjevnije putove do atraktivnih vrhova. Zbog svojih prirodnih vrijednosti ovo je područje zaštićeno i kao Značajan krajobraz Kalnik. Sve to dočarava nam i kružna, pet kilometara duga poučna staza s edukativnim pločama koja počinje neposredno pored planinarskog doma. Kalnik je vrijedna oaza prirode u niskom krajoliku sjeverozapadne Hrvatske, lijepo izletište u očuvanoj prirodi zbog koje vrijedi zastati na putu za more. 

he Pannonian part of Croatia encompasses the vast lowlands of the Mura, Drava, and Sava river valleys, between which smaller mountains rise. These mountains are not like the Dinarides in Croatia’s coastal zone, high and rugged. Instead, they’re green islands enveloped by long cultivated lowlands. Mount Kalnik

Većina uspona ima i lakšu i težu varijantu, odnosno stazu, ovisno o fizičkim mogućnostima i želji za avanturizmom. Ipak, treba stalno biti oprezan i rukama se pridržavati za stijene. Most ascents have both an easier and a more challenging leg of the trail, it all depends on your physical capabilities and desire for adventure. Nonetheless, do err on the side of caution and use your hands to hold on to the rocks for your own safety.

rises near the small town of Križevci on the Zagreb-Budapest rail route. Known for its rocky peaks, old town, and lush nature, Kalnik is a small yet rather fascinating mountain in the Pannonian part of Croatia. From afar, viewed from the surrounding plain, it rises high, although it’s only 642 metres above sea level, and only some three hundred metres higher than the plain around it. On Vranilac, Kalnik’s mountaintop, a telecommunications tower rises, whose slender silhouette is easily discernible on a clear day from several tens of kilometres away. Up close, Kalnik’s monolithic structure breaks into a steep and rocky ridge, a spine made of stone so foreign to this tame landscape of soft soil. The rocks originate from the Mesozoic, when massive dinosaurs walked the surface of the planet. Over the eons, these rocks were slowly dissolved by the rains, the whipping wind, and other elements of nature. What remained were seven elevations, seven teeth as they’re called today, rising high out of a dense forest. Those rocky teeth are rather steep, and their limestone brittle, which means that climbing them is indeed a challenge. Fortunately, a hiking trail interconnects these seven teeth, helping both skilled and less-experienced hikers to experience the pleasure of conquering the peaks, from which a stunning view stretches of the Pannonian Plain cov-

ered in fields and spotted with villages. Most ascents have both an easier and a more challenging leg of the trail, it all depends on your physical capabilities and desire for adventure. Nonetheless, do err on the side of caution and use your hands to hold on to the rocks for your own safety. To conquer all the teeth going from the lowest to the highest, put aside several hours. After a strenuous climb, on weekends you can quench your thirst and satisfy your hunger in a beautiful mountain lodge at the foot of the first tooth surrounded by forests and meadows. It’s a large lodge with two large dining rooms and a kitchen on the ground floor, and 11 bedrooms upstairs. There’s an asphalt road that leads to it, which makes it the starting point for conquering and exploring Kalnik.

And while hikers enjoy the autumnal sun resting on a wooden bench, and in the much-desired shade of trees with a refreshing drink in their hands in the summer, just across the road rises another attraction of Mount Kalnik. High on the cyclopean rock, it seems as if a fortress had grown out of a fairy tale. Firing the imagination of visitors, the old ruins and their history are indeed fiercely fiery. These buildings of old were built as a complex of fortifications in the 12th century, although they were first mentioned a century later because it was here that the Mongol invasion was stopped. History tells us that the Mongols arrived at Veliki Kalnik in the autumn of 1241. After an unsuccessful assault, they decided to starve its defenders by laying them under a long siege. Time passed, but the heroic fighters endured the

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Nakon napornog uspona, vikendom se može okrijepiti i utažiti glad u lijepom planinarskom domu podno prvog zuba, u ugodnom ambijentu šume i livade. To je velik dom s dvije velike blagovaonice i kuhinjom u prizemlju te 11 spavaonica na katu. After a strenuous climb, on weekends you can quench your thirst and satisfy your hunger in a beautiful mountain lodge at the foot of the first tooth surrounded by forests and meadows. It’s a large lodge with two large dining rooms and a kitchen on the ground floor, and 11 bedrooms upstairs.

siege. The Mongols ended the siege, and advanced towards the Adriatic in pursuit of Béla IV, King of Hungary and Croatia, who went into hiding on the island of Cres. Legend has it that the local population fed the king and his entourage with plums, which is why they were nicknamed the plum farmers. To thank them, Béla IV conferred noble titles on all. The fortress continued to be used in the coming centuries by other rulers. This is also where the Ottomans were stopped a century later. But thanks to the cessation of danger, its maintenance requirements, and the ravages of time, the old town slowly fell into ruin. Visiting these ancient walls is not any easier than climbing Kalnik’s rocky teeth, because the steep steps leave even the most physically fit breathless. You’ll walk through its former rooms and corridors, whose walls are bare and which are now roofless, but you’ll be able to picture what life here was once like. The dizzying view of the foothills from some of the narrow windows no longer offers a view of the Mongols, but rather of peaceful hikers and nature lovers, some of

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whom are trying to conquer Kalnik again, but this time with the help of climbing ropes and other equipment. These are, of course, sport climbers who know that Kalnik’s vertical cliffs are a real challenge. Kalnik’s 200+ climbing routes are a magnet for many athletes. At the highest peak of Kalnik, a via ferrata is set up, a secured 60-metre-long alpinist route through rock. Modelled on the via ferratas in other European countries, the route is secured with steel cables and railings fixed to the cliff, and is climbed with the help of climbing gear. This via ferrata was designed not only to provide you with the experience of a great sense of elation because you conquered Mount Kalnik, but also to be a training ground for mountaineers preparing to conquer higher mountains

Alpski jaglac raste na jednom od kalničkih zuba An alpine primrose growing on one of the teeth of Mount Kalnik

and overcome more demanding routes to breath-taking mountain peaks. Due to its natural capital, Kalnik and its surroundings enjoy state protection under the significant landscape classification. The circular, five-kilometre-long educational trail that starts right next to the mountain lodge testifies to this. Mount Kalnik and its nature are a true oasis in the lowlands of north-western Croatia, a beautiful picnic spot in preserved landscape well worth a stop on your way to the coast. 

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SJEVEROZAPADNA ISTRA NORTH-WESTERN ISTRIA

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Plaže, kampovi, hoteli, teniski turniri, biciklističke staze, vinarije, konobe, šparoge, maslinici. Da, to je potpuno točna predodžba o Bujštini, sjeverozapadnoj Istri. No tek malo dalje od obale, hotela i plaža čeka vas još mnogo više. Beaches, camps, hotels, tennis tournaments, cycling routes, wineries, taverns, wild asparagus, olive groves. Yes, this is a rather accurate depiction of Bujština, the north-west of the region of Istria. But if you move away from the coast, hotels, and beaches, and head inland instead, there are quite a few surprises in store for you.

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odanje potiče dobro raspoloženje. Regulira krvni tlak, poboljšava zdravlje, štedi kućni proračun. No razlozi zbog kojih se prepuštamo izazovima usporenog kretanja u nama ljudima leže ukorijenjeni mnogo dublje od osjećaja dobrobiti zbog onoga što znamo zahvaljujući znanstvenim spoznajama. Putujući kroz vrijeme najvećim dijelom pješice, osim što smo kao vrsta stvoreni hodači, mi smo znatiželjna, senzualna i kreativna bića. Gledamo, slušamo, dodirujemo, mirišemo, kušamo. Povrh svega tragamo i spoznajemo. A onda sve to skupa nekome pripovijedamo. Uz pucketavu vatru ili u chat roomu, svejedno. Priče našim životima daju smisao. Svatko priča svoju priču. Kada ih ne bismo pričali, bilo bi kao da i ne živimo. Od vijugave obalne linije, iscrtane puntama i plitkim valama, između rijeka Dragonje i Mirne, penjući se polako uz vinorodne brežuljke, kroz polja i šume na

istok, sve do Šterne, Oprtlja i Završja, prostire se Bujština. Zovu je još i sjeverozapadnom Istrom. Teško je suditi o njezinoj veličini. Čak se i biciklom kroz nju možete provesti za nekoliko sati. No podesite li svoje kretanje brzini ljudskoga hoda, uz znatiželju i izoštrena osjetila, kušat ćete je mjesecima. Ili možda kao ja, zaljubljenik u Bujštinu i njezin povremeni stanovnik, godinama. Nazvanu po strani svijeta, lako ju je zamisliti na trokutastom obrisu istarskog poluotoka, poznatog gotovo svima. Umag, Novigrad, Buje, Brtonigla, Grožnjan, Momjan, Savudrija. Plaže, kampovi, hoteli, teniski turniri, biciklističke staze, vinarije, konobe, šparoge, maslinici. Da, to je potpuno točna predodžba o Bujštini. No tek malo dalje od obale, hotela i plaža, čeka vas još mnogo više. Priroda je ovdje bila široke ruke i blaga u oblikovanju tla od vapnenca i fliša pa bi se za Bujštinu s pravom moglo reći da je neiscrpna ostava za velike pješačke apetite. Otkako sam se prije desetak godina zalju-

bio u čari sporog kretanja, ne razdvajam se od štapova i gojzerica, kao ni puž od svoje kuće. Dogodilo se to upravo ovdje, u sjeverozapadnoj Istri. Kao i mnogo puta kasnije, svoju prvu rutu započeo sam iz Umaga. Vezan sam uz taj grad od najranijeg djetinjstva, a opet, njegovo zaleđe poznajem tek odnedavno. Još uvijek ne vjerujem da sam ga svih tih godina zaobilazio. More nije daleko od moje kuće, no odmah ispred nje prostrana je livada. To je valjda i razlog tomu što danas proučavam topografske karte jednakim žarom kakvim sam nekoć na plaži rješavao križaljke. Kada na karti preko te livade u smjeru sjeveroistoka povučem ravnu crtu koja u brojčanom mjerilu predstavlja duljinu od šest kilometara, ona završi pred Sečovljanskim solanama, na kraju Piranskog zaljeva. Točno ondje gdje najpoznatija pješačka i biciklistička staza Istre, Parenzana, dolazi do slovenske granice. Moj prvi pješački itinerar bio je, dakle, spoj na istarsku žilu kucavicu usporenog kretanja

ravno iz svojeg dnevnog boravka. Usporeno putovanje nudi priliku da ponovo postanemo gospodari vlastitog vremena, rekao je moj prijatelj Goran Blažević, kojeg sam upoznao u selu Barboj za vrijeme jednog od mnogih pješačenja od Umaga do Piranskog zaljeva. I bio je u pravu. Kada god hodam, sprijateljim se s vremenom tako da ga zaboravim. Kao da sam prolaznost zaustavio u sadašnjosti. Ili je barem sustignuo te zajedno s njom nastavio koračati. A kada brzinu jednom podesim ritmu disanja i otkucajima srca, potaknem sva svoja osjetila na ključanje. 01 Put do mora skratiti se može i preko pitomih polja. Samostan Dajla, nedaleko od ceste Umag − Novigrad On your way to the coast, you can take a shortcut through tame fields. The Dajla Monastery not far from the road that interconnects the towns of Umag and Novigrad 02 Slijedite zemljani trag kroz nepregledne maslinike između sela Šverki i Radini Follow the dirt road through endless olive groves between the hamlets of Šverki and Radini

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Usporeno putovanje dozvoljeno je ubrzati jedino biciklom; Oprtalj You’re allowed to pick up speed only by bicycle; the village of Oprtalj

Bujština je puna boja u svako doba godine. Nerijetko hodam i čitav dan slijedeći trag samo jedne boje. Na primjer crvene. Pred zoru rudi na istočnom nebu da bi se s danom spustila na polja i kuće. Na kraju nestaje iza najzapadnije točke hrvatskoga kopna, grleći na rastanku sve što stigne. Slično bih mogao ispričati za svaku boju. Zelenu, narančastu, ljubičastu, plavu. A naročito žutu koja jednom, možda dvaput na godinu, modru Tarsku valu pretvara u muljavo ušća rijeke Mirne. Mulj ispred Novigrada zaista može biti veličanstven i nezemaljski. Želja da o okusima boja pripovijedam kroz slike iznova me vabi na hodanje. Bujština is full of colours at any time of the year. I often spend my entire day walking and following the trail of only one single colour. Red, for example. Before dawn, the colour red starts blushing shily in the eastern sky only to descend onto fields and houses during the day. At the close of day, it disappears behind the westernmost point of Croatia’s mainland, embracing everything it touches as a sign of farewell. I could tell a similar story about every colour. Green, orange, purple, blue. And especially the colour yellow, which turns the blue Tarska Cove into Mirna River’s muddy estuary once, maybe twice a year. The mud in the waters of Novigrad can truly be magnificent and otherworldly. The desire to tell stories about the flavours of colours through images inspires me to just continue walking.

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Dosad sam po Bujštini pješačio svuda. Ipak najviše okolicom oko Barboja. Za to postoje dobri razlozi. Moj prvi pješački itinerar kretao se od Umaga do Savudrije, a zatim od ulaza u Savudrijsku valu do njezina kraja s hrvatske strane te preko polja natrag do Umaga. Propješačio sam poluotok na poluotoku. Može ga se tako nazvati jer riječ je o dijelu kopna, zapravo poluotoku trima stranama okruženim morem, koji se nalazi na sjeverozapadu većeg poluotoka, onog istarskoga. Barboj se također nalazi u neposrednoj blizini najpoznatijih istarskih pješačkih staza i obilaznica kao što su Parenzana i Istarski planinarski put, dok tematska staza Povijesno-književni itinerar Fulvio Tomizza čak prolazi njime. Ona povezuje povijesne lokalitete i znamenitosti s raznolikošću i ljepotom krajolika, valorizirajući pisca i njegovo književno stvaralaštvo te oživljavajući likove, sudbine i događanja u okruženju u kojem su nastale. Ova jedinstvena književna šetnja duga pedesetak kilometara vijuga čitavim umaškim područjem s citatima iz Tomizzinih romana: Materada, Bolji život, Djevojka iz Petrovije, Peto godišnje doba, Kuća s bademom. Pročitao sam neka od Tomizzinih djela, a da nisam, nakon pješačenja nekim od pet postojećih itinerara, sigurno bih to učinio. Njegova će vas proza, kao uostalom i sam boravak u prirodi, nadahnuti te poučiti da možete uživati u suncu jednako kao i u oluji.

Konačno, Barboj je mjesto gdje dobra priča o sporom kretanju počinje. Usred starog maslinika, osvijetljenog plamenom baklji i svijeća, prošloga je ljeta ondje održan prvi Festival usporenog putovanja. Uz logorsku vatru, ispod zvijezda poznati su hrvatski putnici, pustolovi i putopisci raspredali priče o svojim doživljajima i iskustvima. Njegov pokretač, organizator i domaćin, moj prijatelj Goran Blažević, kojega sam upoznao hodajući po Bujštini, i sam je strastveni hodač. Iza njega su tisuće prijeđenih kilometara s tragovima cipela i biciklističkih guma po Europi, Africi i Aziji. − Cilj ovog festivala je, kako kaže, popularizirati održive stilove kretanja i upoznavanja svijeta, dati priliku putnicima da razmjenjuju iskustva i inspirirati ljude da slijedeći svoju strast uzmu život u svoje ruke. Na kraju, Goran i zaključuje: − Mi smo pokretači svoje volje, koja je najbitnija da bismo stigli do cilja. Baš u tom pokretanju volje krije se magija koja daje priliku razmišljati, promatrati, upoznati i prihvatiti sebe onakvima kakvi jesmo. Kroz čitav taj proces otvara se prilika da, osim kroz ono vanjsko, putujemo i kroz unutarnje. Dođite dogodine u Barboj na festival i usporite brzinu kretanja da biste osjetili sreću koja nam u svakodnevici često izmiče. Onu istu sreću i radost koju osjećamo i nakon dobro ispričane priče. 

Otkako sam se prije desetak godina zaljubio u čari sporog kretanja, ne razdvajam se od štapova i gojzerica, kao ni puž od svoje kuće. Dogodilo se to upravo ovdje, u sjeverozapadnoj Istri. Ever since I fell in love with the charms of slow travel ten years ago, I’ve been inseparable from my hiking staffs and boots, just like the snail is from its shell. It happened right here, in north-western Istria.

01 Maraton Istrian Wine Run, na pola puta između hoda i bicikla. Okolica Momjana s pogledom na Buje The Istrian Wine Run at a pace faster than walking yet slower than cycling. The surroundings of the hamlet of Momjan with a view of the town of Buje 02 Goran Blažević, hodač, biciklist i putopisac, na svojem je imanju u Barboju prošloga ljeta pokrenuo Festival usporenog putovanja Hiker, cyclist, and travel writer Goran Blažević started the Slow Travel Festival on his estate in the village of Barboj last summer

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alking boosts your mood. It also regulates your blood pressure, improves your health, and saves you money. But the reasons why we indulge in the challenges of slow travel are rooted more deeply in us, humans, than in the sheer feeling of well-being we have because of what we know thanks to scientific insights. We are curious, sensual, and creative beings that travel through time for the most part on foot exactly because we, as a species, were designed for walking. We watch, we listen, we touch, we smell, we taste. And above all else, we seek, and we learn. And then we tell others about our adventures. While we sit by a crackling campfire or in a chat room, it doesn’t really matter. Stories give meaning to our lives. Everyone has their own story. If we didn’t tell our stories, it would be as if we weren’t even alive. Also known as north-western Istria, Bujština is sandwiched between the rivers Dragonja and Mirna. Encompassing wine-growing hills, and fields and forests to the east, it stretches from the winding coastline featuring countless capes and shallow coves all the way to the villages of Šterna, Oprtalj, and Završje, where it ends. It’s difficult to tell how big it is. You can cycle through the whole of Bujština in just a few hours. But if you start taking walks through it armed with a sense of curiosity and your senses sharpened, you’ll have what to experience for months on end. Perhaps even for years as I, someone who loves Bujština and is its oc-

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casional resident, have and continue to do so. Bujština or north-western Istria is easy to position on the triangular outline of the widely known Istrian Peninsula. The town of Umag, the town of Novigrad, the town of Buje, the village of Brtonigla, the townlet of Grožnjan, the village of Momjan, the village of Savudrija. Beaches, camps, hotels, tennis tournaments, cycling routes, wineries, taverns, wild asparagus, olive groves. Yes, this is a rather accurate depiction of Bujština, the north-west of the region of Istria. But if you move away from the coast, hotels, and beaches, and head inland instead, there are

quite a few surprises in store for you. Here, nature was generous and gentle in forming the soil from limestone and flysch. It could rightly be said that Bujština is an inexhaustible storehouse for great hiking appetites. Ever since I fell in love with the charms of slow travel ten years ago, I’ve been inseparable from my hiking staffs and boots, just like the snail is from its shell. It happened right here, in north-western Istria. As many times afterwards, the starting point of my first hiking experience was Umag. I’ve been attached to this town since my earliest childhood, and yet, it was only recently that I

Barboj je mjesto gdje dobra priča o sporom kretanju počinje. Usred starog maslinika, osvijetljenog plamenom baklji i svijeća, prošloga je ljeta ondje održan prvi Festival usporenog putovanja. The village of Barboj is where a good story about slow travel begins. It was inside an old olive grove, illuminated by the flames of torches and candles, that last summer saw the first Slow Travel Festival.

got to know its hinterland. I still can’t believe that I circumvented it for all those years. The sea is not that far from my house, but right in front of it is a spacious meadow. This might be the reason why the zeal with which I study topographic maps today is the same zeal with which I once solved crossword puzzles while lying on the beach. When I draw a straight line on a map across that meadow in a north-easterly direction, which, when expressed numerically, represents a length of six kilometres, the line ends at the saltpans of Sečovlje, right in the middle of the Gulf of Piran. Exactly at the point at which Istria’s most famous hiking and cycling trail, Parenzana, reaches the border of Slovenia. In other words, my first-ever hiking itinerary extended straight from my living room, and included the Istrian lifeblood of slow travel. A friend of mine, Goran Blažević, whom I met in the village of Barboj during one of my many hikes from Umag to the Gulf of Piran, once told me that Slow travel provides you with an opportunity to again become a master of your own time. And he was right. Whenever I walk, I make friends with time in a way that I forget it. It’s as if I arrest transience in the present. Or as if I at least catch up with transience, and continue walking alongside it. And once I adjust my pace to the rhythm of my breathing and heartbeat, my senses get supercharged. I’ve hiked all across Bujština. But mostly in the surroundings of Barboj. There are good reasons for

this. My first hiking itinerary was from Umag to the village of Savudrija, then from the entrance to Savudrija Bay to its end on the Croatian side, and then across fields back to Umag. I covered on foot an entire peninsula within a peninsula. It can indeed be called that − a peninsula within a peninsula, that is − because it is a part of land, a peninsula, in fact, surrounded by the sea on three sides, located in the north-west of a larger peninsula; namely, the Istrian Peninsula. The village of Barboj is also in the immediate vicinity of Istria’s most famous hiking trails and ring roads, such as Parenzana and Istria’s Hiking Route, which intersects with the themed trail called the Fulvio Tomizza Historical and Literary Route. It interconnects historic landmarks and sites with the diversity and beauty of the landscape, while analysing and evaluating the life and work of writer Fulvio Tomizza, and

01 Zvonik župne crkve sv. Servula mučenika, zaštitnika grada Buja The bell tower of the parish Church of St. Servulus the Martyr, the patron saint of the town of Buje 02 Festival usporenog putovanja u Barboju, druženje uz logorsku vatru The Slow Travel Festival in the village of Barboj, telling stories by a campfire 03 Umag u suton. Pogled na stari grad sa zvonikom i crkvom Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije The town of Umag at dusk. A view of the old town with the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and its bell tower

while bringing to life the characters, destinies, and events in the environment in which they were created. This fifty-kilometre-long, uniquely literary hike meanders through the entire surroundings of Umag, during which you’ll come across quote after quote from Tomizza’s novels: Materada, Better Life, The Girl from Petrovija, The Fifth Season, The

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 45

Dvije kart ice, jedna čla narina

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* U skladu s Pravilima nagradnog programa za korisnike Diners Club Croatia Airlines i Visa Croatia Airlines kartice. ** U skladu s Posebnim uvjetima korištenja Airport Loungea za korisnike Diners Club kartica.

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erstecardclub.hr

Info telefon: 01 4929 555

Zatražite paket kartica Diners Club Croatia Airlines i Visa Croatia Airlines 100% digitalno na diners.hr.

has been a European destination of excellence since 2010 and The most romantic destination in Europe since 2015.

Kada hladan sjeverac osvježi zrak, nastaju nesvakidašnji prizori. Pogled iz Momjana na Julijske Alpe Once the wind freshens and turns into a cold northerly, extraordinary sights emerge. A view of the Julian Alps from the hamlet of Momjan

House with an Almond Tree. I’ve read some of his work, but had I not, after hiking along one of the five existing hiking itineraries of the trail named after him, I certainly would have been inspired to do so. His prose, much like nature itself, will not only inspire you, but also teach you that you can enjoy the storm as much as the sun. The village of Barboj is where a good story about slow travel begins. It was inside an old olive grove, illuminated by the flames of torches and candles, that last summer saw the first Slow Travel Festival. By a campfire, and under the stars, Croatia’s famous travellers, adventurers, and travel writers shared their stories and experiences. The festival’s initiator, organiser, and host, my friend Goran Blažević, whom I met while hiking around Bujština, is himself an avid hiker. Behind him are thousands of kilometres that he traversed in Europe, Africa, and Asia leaving the traces of his shoes or of the tires of his bicycle behind. − What this festival is trying to do is popularise sustainable styles of travel, and the desire to get to know the world around you, to give travellers the opportunity to share their experiences, and to inspire people to, by following their passion, take life into their hands. In the end, Goran concludes: − We are free agents who act upon our own free will, which is crucial in reaching our goals. It is precisely in this activation of the will that magic hides, which gives us the opportunity to think, observe, get to know, and accept ourselves as we are. Through this process, an opportunity opens up for us to travel not only through the external, but through the internal world as well. Be sure to come to Barboj next year, and to slow down to feel the joy that often eludes us in everyday life. The same elation and joy we feel after a well-told story. 

We invite you to download the QR code and check out the new tourist brochure or research the information on the website www.nin.hr

Fotografije: I. Pervan 4,5,8 / B. Kačan 3 / B. Ljubičić 1,7 / M. Dejanović 6 / K. Škrbić 2

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 47

MUZEJI MUSEUMS

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MUZEJ BETINSKE DRVENE BRODOGRADNJE BETINA MUSEUM OF WOODEN SHIPBUILDING

PIŠE/BY __ Kate Šikić Čubrić i/and Mirela Bilić

FOTOGRAFIJE/PHOTOS __ Eduard Hanna

Muzej betinske drvene brodogradnje otočni je muzej koji čuva tradicijska znanja o maloj drvenoj brodogradnji na otoku Murteru. Priča koja se otvara unutar zgrade muzeja zapravo je uvod u betinsku brodogradnju, čiji se ogledni primjerci mogu stvarno doživjeti u muzeju na otvorenome, jedinstvenom u Hrvatskoj. The Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding is an island museum that preserves traditional knowledge about small wooden shipbuilding on the island of Murter. The story that unfolds inside the museum building serves as a prelude to Betina shipbuilding, examples of which can truly be experienced in an open-air museum, one of its kind in Croatia.

jesto Betina ima dugu brodograditeljsku prošlost, a danas je jedno od samo nekoliko preostalih središta drvene brodogradnje u Hrvatskoj. Muzej betinske drvene brodogradnje otočni je muzej koji čuva tradicijska znanja o maloj drvenoj brodogradnji prisutnoj na otoku Murteru u kontinuitetu od sredine 18. stoljeća. Uspješno radi već osam godina. Od samog početka, još u razdoblju prikupljanja predmeta i bilježenja priča, projektu muzeja odazvala se cijela zajednica. Jedno po jedno kazivanje, predmet po predmet, od konoba do brodograditeljskih radionica u procesu kreiranja stalnog postava oblikovala se zajednička energija koja je nosila cijeli projekt. Ta sinergija međusobnog djelovanja nastavila se i

01 Betina − pogled na mjesni trg i crkvu sv. Frane Betina − a view of the local square and the church of St. Francis 02 Muzej na otvorenome The open-air museum

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u godinama koje su uslijedile. Muzej je aktivan u lokalnoj zajednici, pokretač je različitih ideja i inicijativa, partner, suradnik i prijatelj. Nalazi se u samome srcu Betine, u prekrasnoj, staroj kamenoj kući koja ima kulturni, povijesni i arhitektonski značaj pa je i muzejska zgrada priča za sebe. Podijeljena je u dva krila, u kojima je smješten postav podijeljen u dva dijela − etnografski i brodograditeljski. Središnjom galerijom koja spaja dva dijela muzeja dominira instalacija jarbola i lantine, a na zidu tradicijska brodska oprema − sidro, vesla, timuni, sohe... Priča o brodogradnji smještena je u kontekst vremena u kojem se razvila. Svi predmeti izloženi u muzeju donacije su lokalnog stanovništva − betinskih brodograditelja, težaka, jedriličara, lokalnih etnografa i ljubitelja baštine. Njihov je doprinos velik i u tekstovima koje prate muzejsku priču. Slike koje su se otvorile bilježenjem tih priča pretočene su u riječi, muzejske legende koje prate stalni postav. Velik je broj citata koji vjerno do-

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čaravaju brodograditeljski zanat, umijeće jedrenja latinskim jedrom, odlazak u polje brodom i svakodnevni život na otoku u prošlosti. Stalni postav obogaćen je i različitim multimedijalnim sadržajima, a muzej je, pomalo neobično, omiljen i među djecom. Priča koja se otvara unutar zgrade muzeja zapravo je uvod u betinsku brodogradnju, čiji se ogledni primjerci mogu stvarno doživjeti u muzeju na otvorenome, jedinstvenom u Hrvatskoj. U vanjskom dijelu nalazi se 45 drvenih brodova koji u svojem prirodnom okruženju predstavljaju umijeće tradicijske betinske brodogradnje u drvu. U lučici su najbrojnije gajete, a slijede kaići, lađe i leuti. Neki od njih zadržani su u tradicijskoj formi, dok su neki prilagođeni suvremenim potrebama vlasnika. Svoju poziciju u lučici zauzimaju sukladno reprezentativnosti, izvornosti gradnje, održavanosti, ojedrenju i poštivanju tradicijskih materijala i elemenata u opremanju. U muzeju na otvorenome, ali i na cijelom području mjesne jezgre po-

stavljene su legende i informativne ploče koje prezentiraju mjesnu kulturnu baštinu koja se otkriva šetnjom tematskom stazom Putevima baštine sve do prelijepe betinske crkve sv. Frane. U cijelom projektu nastajanja muzeja, a i danas u radu, sudjeluje velik broj volontera i prijatelja muzeja. Velik je broj događanja vezanih uz temu brodogradnje i tradicije koje organizira muzej u suradnji s udrugama i volonterima. Organiziraju se radionice, predavanja, regate drvenih brodova, folklorne manifestacije i brojni drugi sadržaji. Muzej je često mjesto gdje ljudi dolaze provoditi slobodno vrijeme u kreativnim radionicama, poslušati zanimljivo izlaganje, a dolaze i sami s idejama za buduće izložbe, publikacije i događanja. Muzej betinske drvene brodogradnje 2018. osvojio je nagradu Silletto za najbolji europski muzej u kategoriji Muzeji u zajednici, koju dodjeljuje Europski muzejski forum. Godinu kasnije muzej je osvojio i Nagradu europske baštine −

nagradu Europa Nostra, koju dodjeljuju Europska komisija i Zaklada Europa Nostra u kategoriji Edukacija, učenje i podizanje svijesti. Muzej je otvoren za posjetitelje kroz cijelu godinu. Svaki je posjet muzeju individualiziran i prilagođava se zahtjevima grupe pa uz standardni razgled muzej često nudi različite aranžmane i programe za posjetitelje. U priču se često uključuju i volonteri koji muzejskim aktivnostima udahnu dozu izvornosti i spontanosti. Posjećuju se škverovi, priča se o brodovima, povijesti naselja i ostalim zanimljivostima. Posjet se može kombinirati s degustacijama tradicijskih jela u autentičnom ambijentu, poludnevnim i cjelodnevnim razgledima znamenitosti otoka Murtera i okolice te raznim društvenim aktivnostima. U suradnji s vlasnicima dr02

01 Galerija brodske opreme A gallery of on-board equipment 02 Soba tajni brodograditelja The shipbuilders' secrets room 03 Šuperenje (kalafatanje) brodske oplate Caulking (wood processing) of the plates

venih brodova organiziraju se edukativna jedrenja i veslanja, kao i demonstracije opremanja broda latinskim jedrom. I sam je muzej ponosni vlasnik drvene ljepotice imena Marija! Riječ je o kompletno obnovljenoj stogodišnjakinji, betinskoj gajeti starijeg tipa, pravoj težakinji starog kova, kojom će vas u muzeju odvesti na nezaboravnu plovidbu starim težačkim rutama. Zajedrit ćete na starinski način, a neće vas poštedjeti ni veslanja! 

K. Šikić Čubrić

he town of Betina boasts lengthy shipbuilding history, and today it is one of few remaining centres of wooden shipbuilding in Croatia. The Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding is an island museum that preserves traditional knowledge about small wooden shipbuilding that has been constantly present on the CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 51

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Regata Latinsko idro, Murter The Lateen regatta, Murter

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S. Pjanić

island of Murter since mid-18th century. The museum has been operating successfully for eight years. From the very beginning, back in the period of collecting objects and recording stories, the entire community responded to the museum project. One story at a time, object by object, from taverns to shipbuilding workshops, a common energy was formed in the process of creating the permanent exhibition that carried the entire project. This synergy of mutual action continued in the years that followed. The museum is active in the local community, it acts as the initiator of various ideas and initiatives, a partner, collaborator, and friend. It is located in the very heart of Betina, in a beautiful, old stone house that has cultural, historical, and architectural significance, so the museum building tells its own story. It is divided into two wings, with the exhibit divided into two parts − the ethnographic and the shipbuilding part. The central gallery that connects the two wings is dominated by an installation of masts and

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lanyards, and the wall is decorated with traditional shipping equipment − an anchor, oars, tillers, a davit... The story of shipbuilding is placed in the context of the time in which it developed. All items exhibited in the museum were donated by the locals − shipbuilders from Bettina, farmers, sailors, local ethnographers, and heritage afficionados. They also lent significant contribution in the form of the stories that follow the museum’s origins. The images that were evoked by those stories were conveyed into words, descriptions that accompany the permanent exhibition. There are numerous quotes that faithfully depict the craft of shipbuilding, the art of sailing with a lateen, going to work in the fields by boat, and everyday life on the island in the past. The permanent exhibition is also enriched with diverse multimedia content, and the museum is, somewhat peculiarly, a favourite among children as well. The story that unfolds inside the museum building serves as a prelude to Betina

shipbuilding, examples of which can truly be experienced in an open-air museum, one of its kind in Croatia. The outside part of the exhibition features 45 wooden ships, which in their natural surroundings represent the art of traditional Betina wooden shipbuilding. In the port, you’ll mostly see the gajeta, followed by the kaić, lađa, and leut. Some of them have been kept in their traditional form, while some have been adapted to the modern needs of the owners. They occupy their spots in the port in accordance with representativeness, originality of construction, maintenance, sailing, and adherence to traditional materials and elements in furnishing. In the open-air museum, as well as in the entire town centre, information panels have been placed that present the local cultural heritage, which can be discovered by walking along the themed Paths of Heritage all the way to the beautiful church of St. Francis. Numerous volunteers and friends of the museum have participated in the project of

Visit Betina

Zaplovite s nama! Sail away with us!

www.tz-betina.hr 55 CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _

the creation of the museum and participate in its work even today. Many events related to shipbuilding and traditions have been organized by the museum in cooperation with associations and volunteers, such as workshops, lectures, wooden boat regattas, folklore events, and other. The museum is often a place where people come to spend their free time in creative workshops, listen to an interesting presentation, or offer their own ideas for future exhibitions, publications, and events. In 2018, the Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding won the Silletto Prize for the best European museum in the category of community engagement, awarded by the

01 Start Regate za dušu i tilo, Betina Start of the Regatta for the body and soul, Betina 02 Otvaranje jedra za plovidbu Hoisting a sail for navigation S. Pjanić

03 Tradicijski armiž − vezivanje jedra za lantinu Traditional equipment − setting the sail on the yard

I. Turčinović

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Autor: Zoran Vulinović

Autor: Ivo Pervan

Autor: Ivo Biočina

2 UNESCO sites | 2 national parks | 11 medieval fortifications 230 cultural monuments | 300 islands | 600 archaeological sites

so natural, so beautiful www.dalmatiasibenik.hr

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 57

European Museum Forum. A year later, the museum also won the European Heritage Award − the Europa Nostra Award, which is awarded by the European Commission and the Europa Nostra Foundation in the Education, Training, and Awareness-raising category. The museum is open to visitors throughout the year. Each visit to the museum is individualized and adapted to the group’s requirements, so in addition to the standard tour, the museum frequently provides various arrangements and programs for visitors. Volunteers are often involved, and they add a breath of originality and spontaneity into museum activities. The visitors get to see shipyards, hear about ships and boats, town history, and other interesting things. The visit can be accompanied with tastings of traditional dishes in an authentic setting, half-day and full-day tours of the sights of the island of Murter and its surroundings, and various social activities. In coopera-

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tion with the owners of the wooden ships, educational sailing and rowing events are organized, as are showcases on how to equip a ship with a lateen. The museum itself is the proud owner of a wooden beauty named Marija! It is a com-

pletely restored hundred-year-old Betina gajeta, a true old-fashioned powerhouse that will take you on an unforgettable cruise along the old fishing routes in the museum. You will sail the old-fashioned way, and you won’t be spared from rowing either! 

01 Brodovi u raskošnoj blagdanskoj rasvjeti Boats twinkling against the opulent holiday lighting 02 Muzejska gajeta Marija u božićnom ruhu The museum gajeta, Marija, in festive adornment

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F. Šimićev

Pogled na grad Zadar i obližnje otoke An aerial view of Zadar and the nearby islands

Uživajte u svjetski poznatom paškom siru

Otkrijte okuse mora Discover the flavours of the sea

N. Matić

Enjoy the world famous Pag cheese

www.zadar.hr

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Recite DA! Zadarskoj županiji Say YES! to the Zadar Region U A

potrazi si za mirisom mora i fascinantnom kulturnom baštinom? Pritom voliš uživati u isporbavanju brojnih delicija specifičnih za kraj u kojem se nalaziš? Ne tražite dalje - samo recite DA zadarskoj regiji!

re you looking for the wonderful smell of the sea and fascinating cultural heritage? Do you also take pleasure in trying numerous delicacies typical to an area? Look no further - just say YES to Zadar Region!

RECITE DA! TISUĆLJETNOM ZADRU

RECITE DA! VINIMA ZADARSKE REGIJE

RECITE DA! DOMAĆOJ HRANI

Posjetite Zadar, grad u kojem ćete vidjeti najljepši zalazak sunca, diviti se crkvama svete Stošije i svetog Donata, oduševiti se modernim instalacijama Morskim orguljama i Pozdravom suncu, razgledati Kneževu i Providurovu palaču, Muzej antičkog stakla ili Zlato i srebro Zadra. Ne propustite posjetiti zadarske gradske zidine, koje su stoljećima branile grad od osvajača, a danas su omiljeno šetalište putnicima iz cijelog svijeta. Bedemi zadarskih pobuna, odnosno zadarske zidine, od 2017. godine na popisu su UNESCO-ove svjetske baštine. Sadržaja vam u ovom gradu nipošto neće nedostajati, čak i zimi kad možete uživati u ugodnim temperaturama, a vrlo je moguće da će vas tijekom vašeg boravka milovati nježno zimsko sunce koje će vaš odmor učini još ugodnijim.

Uz predivnu i raznoliku prirodu, bogatu kulturno-povijesnu baštinu, vrhunsku gastronomiju i gostoljubivost domaćina, Zadarska regija može se pohvaliti i sve snažnijom vinskom scenom. Tradicija proizvodnje opojne kapljice u vinogradarskoj podregiji Sjeverne Dalmacije, duga je tisuće godina. Sada su trend boutique vinarije, gdje suvremeni proizvodni procesi garantiraju izvrsnu kvalitetu vina. Neka od njih bila zapažena su na prestižnim svjetskim natjecanjima poput Decantera i IWC-a, odakle se svake godine vraćaju sa sve više medalja - pa i zlatnom. Manje je poznato da je zadarsko vinogradarsko područje prava eko oaza Hrvatske. Čak 30 posto proizvođača posjeduje eko markicu, što ovu regiju svrstava u svjetski vrh.

Uz vino ide i vrhunska hrana, bazirana na zdravoj mediteranskoj kuhinji uvrštenoj na UNESCO-ov popis nematerijalne baštine. Njeno “sveto trojstvo” su riba, vino i maslinovo ulje pa svakako kušajte oradu, brancina, kovača ili zubaca na lešo ili gradele, a izvrstan je i odrezak od tune iz akvatorija Zadarske županije. Tu su i nadaleko poznate novigradske dagnje na buzaru ili kaljski brudet, a mora se probati i teletina ili hobotnica ispod peke, s krumpirom i povrćem. Kušajte i paški sir, a u nekoj od vrhunskih sirana naučite kako se on proizvodi.

Istražite bogatu kulturu i povijest

F. Šimićev

Explore the city’s rich cultural heritage

SAY YES! TO THE MILLENNIAL ZADAR

SAY YES! TO THE WINES OF ZADAR REGION

Visit Zadar, a city where you will see the most beautiful sunset, admire the churches of St Anastasia and St Donatus, marvel at the modern installations the Sea Organ and the Greeting to the Sun, visit the 2 Palaces, the Museum of Ancient Glass or the Museum of Gold and Silver. Do not miss visiting the Zadar City Walls, which defended the city from invaders for centuries, and are today a favourite promenade for travellers from all over the world. The Ramparts of the Zadar Rebellions, as they are officially called, have been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2017. There are plenty of activities that you can do in the city, even during winter when you can enjoy mild temperatures, and it is very likely that during your stay you will be caressed by the gentle winter sun, making your vacation even more pleasant.

In addition to the beautiful and diverse nature, rich cultural and historical heritage, top cuisine and the well-known hospitality of its hosts, Zadar Region can also boast about a strong and thriving wine scene. The tradition of producing intoxicating wines in the winegrowing region of Northern Dalmatia is thousands of years long. Today’s trends are boutique wineries, where modern production processes guarantee excellent wine quality. Some wines are being highly rated at prestigious world competitions such as Decanter and IWC, from which they keep returning every year with more and more medals, even with gold ones. It is a less familiar fact that the winegrowing Zadar area is Croatia’s true eco-oasis. As many as 30 percent of all producers have an eco-label, which position this region among the best in the world.

SAY YES! TO HOMEMADE FOOD The wine is accompanied by excellent food, based on healthy Mediterranean cuisine included in the UNESCO list of intangible heritage. Its “holy trinity” consists of fish, wine, and olive oil, so make sure to try the gilthead bream, sea bass, John Dory or common dentex boiled (“na lešo“) or grilled (“na gradele“), as well as excellent tuna steak from the Zadar County acquatorium. You just have to try Novigrad mussels prepared in a specific way “na buzaru”, or Kali fish stew known as “brudet”, as well as meat or octopus with potatoes and vegetables prepared in the most popular way of baking under the lid, locally called “peka”. Not to miss is the famous “Paški sir” - a special kind of sheep cheese from the island of Pag, where it is possible to learn about the cheese making process in one of the top-quality cheese dairies. CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 61

TURIZAM TOURISM

HRVATSKI BISERI KOJE TEK TREBA OTKRITI

Arhiva TZ Pakoštane/Pakoštane TB archives

CROATIA'S GEMS THAT HAVE YET TO BE DISCOVERED

Maškovića han, najzapadniju europsku građevinu islamske kulture, mjesto dodira istoka i zapada. Potom ćemo svratiti do Šibensko-kninske županije, gdje će vam suvremeno opremljeni Hrvatski centar koralja na otoku Zlarinu ispričati priču o tradiciji hrvatskog koraljarstva, a na kraju šetnje županijama potražite ostatke crkvice Rotonde skrivene na padinama brda Utrk u onoj najjužnijoj, Dubrovačko-neretvanskoj. Dakako, to je samo mali dio onoga manje poznatoga što biste mogli upoznati. Ima mnogo hrvatskih skrivenih bisera koje možda još niste otkrili, ali jednom kad ih otkrijete, zacijelo ćete poželjeti opet im se vratiti. Pa krenimo zajedno. Dobrodošli! 

hat Croatia has something to offer everyone, including the most demanding guests, those with the most refined sense of taste and discerning palate, is no longer a secret. If you’re looking to ex-

01 Maškovića han, u neposrednoj blizini Vranskog jezera The Maškovića Han caravanserai in the immediate vicinity of Lake Vrana 02 Ostaci jedinstvene male crkve na padinama brda Utrk. Crkvica, neslužbenog naziva Rotonda, iz zraka izgleda spektakularno The remains of an extraordinary small church resting on the slopes of Utrk Hill. The church, whose unofficial name is Rotunda, looks spectacular from the air

TZO DP/DP TB

a Hrvatska može svakomu nešto ponuditi, pa i onima najzahtjevnijima, onima s najrafiniranijim ukusom i najprobirljivijim nepcem, odavno nije više tajna. No sve koji su željni istraživanja i novih otkrića čeka i pregršt iznenađenja. Hrvatska je puna bisera koje tek treba otkriti. Upoznat ćemo vas s nekima od njih raštrkanima po različitim dijelovima naše zemlje. Ovaj put vodimo vas na zabavni i romantični Advent u Varaždinu u Varaždinskoj županiji, zatim u Koprivničko-križevačku županiju, gdje se možete okušati u rekreativnom jahanju po certificiranim konjičkim stazama, pa u grad Dugo Selo u Zagrebačkoj županiji na čašu vina i tradicionalna jela, bicikliranje ili ribolov. A možete se uputiti i u Nikola Tesla Experience Center u Karlovcu i ondje saznati više o manje poznatim detaljima iz života slavnoga svjetskog znanstvenika Nikole Tesle te nastaviti dalje prema Zadarskoj županiji, u kojoj vam predstavljamo

plore new localities and chance across new finds, quite a few surprises are in store for you. Croatia abounds with gems that have yet to be discovered, and we’ll introduce you to some of them. They’re scattered across our country, so in this issue we’ll take you to Varaždin’s fun and romantic Advent and Christmas market in the Varaždin County, after which you can pop by the Koprivnica-Križevci County, where you can try your hand at recreational horse riding on certified horse-riding routes. For a glass of wine and a traditional meal, cycling or fishing, head to the town of Dugo Selo in the Zagreb County. On your way to the Zadar County, where we’re taking you to the Maškovića Han caravanserai, the westernmost building of Islamic culture on European soil, and a place where the East and the West meet, first drop round the Nikola Tesla Experience Centre in Karlovac, where you’ll find out more about some lesser-known facts from the life of world-famous scientist Nikola Tesla. We’ll then stop by the Šibenik-Knin County, where the modernly equipped Croatian Coral Centre on the island of Zlarin tells you the story of the tradition of coral gardening in Croatia. At the end of your travels through Croatia’s counties, be sure to look for the remains of the small Rotunda church resting on the slopes of Utrk Hill in Croatia’s southernmost Dubrovnik-Ne retva County. This is, of course, only a tiny portion of Croatia’s lesser-known localities and spots that you may well be tempted to visit. Croatia abounds with hidden gems that you may not have discovered yet, but once you do, you’ll surely want to return. So, let’s get going together. Welcome to Croatia! 

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Varaždinska županija Varaždin County OTKRIJTE ADVENT U VARAŽDINU Povucite Djeda Mraza za bradu u Varaždinu, gradu gdje zima postaje čarolija. Zabavni i romantični Advent u Varaždinu savršeno je zimsko odredište za užitak s obitelji, prijateljima ili udvoje. Blagdanski uređeno okruženje povijesne jezgre jednog

Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos _ TZ grada Varaždina/Varaždin TB

od najljepših gradova u Hrvatskoj pruža raznoliki program, a zadnjih nekoliko godina svojevrsni simbol varaždinskog Adventa postala je Kuća Djeda Mraza, koja ove godine postaje impresivni Čarobni grad Djeda Mraza. Smješten na čak sedam lokacija u predivnoj i bajkovito uređenoj gradskoj jezgri, Advent u Varaždinu, koji traje sve do 7. siječnja, donosi čak 110 programa svih 01

vrsta, boja i oblika, osmišljenih i kreiranih za sve ukuse, uzraste i blagdanske želje. Najmlađi posjetitelji, ali i svi koji se žele

DISCOVER VARAŽDIN’S ADVENT AND CHRISTMAS MARKET

na trenutak vratiti u djetinjstvo moći će uživati u blagdanskoj

You’re invited to pull Santa by the beard in Varaždin, a town where

čaroliji Čarobnoga grada Djeda Mraza. U najčarobnijem mjestu

winter turns everything into magic. Varaždin’s fun and romantic

u Hrvatskoj Djed Mraz će dočekivati posjetitelje s osmijehom na

Advent and Christmas market is the perfect winter destination for

licu i pričati im najdraže priče, Baka Mraz će pripremati brojne

your family, friends or romantic partner. Draped in festive decorati-

slastice, a vilenjaci pakirati poklone s ljubavlju i pažnjom. Svoje

ons, the historic core of one of the most beautiful towns in Croatia

mjesto u Gradu Djeda Mraza imat će i Grinch, no i on će biti u

features a diverse programme, in which Santa’s House has beco-

veselom, božićnom duhu. 

me a symbol of sorts of Varaždin’s Advent and Christmas market. This year, Santa’s House has grown into the impressive Magical Village of Santa Claus. Unfolding in as many as seven locations in the fairy-tale-like, beautifully decorated town centre of Varaždin, the Advent and Christmas market, which closes on 7th January, will be featuring as many as 110 programmes of all sorts, colours and shapes, designed to cater to all tastes, ages, and Christmas wishes. The youngest of visitors, and all those who wish to return to their childhood selves even if for a brief moment, will have the chance to enjoy the Christmas magic of the Magical Village of Santa Claus. In the most enchanting place in Croatia, Santa Claus will be welcoming you with a warm smile on his face telling you your favourite stories, while Mrs Claus will be baking sweets, and the elves gift-wrapping your Christmas presents with tender loving care. The Magical Village of Santa Claus would not be complete without the Grinch, but he too will be in good spirits − the jolly spirit of Christmas, that is.  02

01 Varaždinski Korzo, mjesto koncerata i blagdanskih okusa Varaždin’s promenade, a concert and festive flavours venue 02 Ledena čarolija na Kapucinskom trgu Ice magic on Varaždin’s Capuchin Square 03 Stančićev trg, jedinstveni Čarobni grad Djeda Mraza Stančić Square, the one-and-only Magical Village of Santa Claus 03 CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 63

Koprivničko-križevačka županija Koprivnica-Križevci County REKREATIVNO JAHANJE Koprivničko-križevačka županija prava je paleta doživljaja. Spoj adrenalina i beskrajne ljepote može se pronaći u svakom kutku. Ako želite doživjeti sve ljepote prirodne baštine, ali i čari avanturizma, okušajte se u rekreativnom jahanju po certificiranim konjičkim stazama. Staze su podijeljene u tri regije, križevačku, koprivničku i đurđevačku, te prolaze najvećim dijelom kroz šumska područja, uz vodotoke, kroz poljske puteve lokalnih zajednica, pri tome izbjegavajući naseljena mjesta i prometnice. Konjičke staze objedinjuju turističku ponudu obiteljskih turističkih gospodarstava, ugostiteljskih objekata, vinskih cesta i svih drugih sadržaja koji se kroz jahanje konja mogu iskusiti. Uz voditelja jahanja možete doživjeti panoramska, terenska i rekreativna jahanja po zanimljivim turističkim odredištima. Pronađite u sebi avanturistički duh, krenite na putovanje po Koprivničko-križevačkoj županiji te doživite nezaboravno iskustvo. 

RECREATIONAL HORSE RIDING ON CERTIFIED ROUTES Offering a full range of experiences, every corner of the Koprivnica-Križevci County hides a wealth of adrenaline adventures and endless expanses of beauty. To enjoy the beauty of the region’s nature and have an adventure, try your hand at recreational horse riding on certified routes, which are divided into three sections − specifically, one section surrounding the town of Križevci, one surrounding the town of Koprivnica, and one surrounding the town of Đurđevac. For the most part, they pass through forests, along cals, and avoid populated areas and roads with traffic on them. The routes interconnect family farms, restaurants and cafes, wine roads, and other cultural offerings you may want to experience while horse riding. With your guide, you’ll go on a panoramic, off-road, and 02

recreational horse-riding tour around stunning tourist spots. To tour the Koprivnica-Križevci County and have an unforgettable experien-

01-02-03 Certificirane konjičke staze prolaze kroz šumska područja, vodotoke i poljske puteve objedinjujući pritom ponudu obiteljskih turističkih gospodarstava, ugostiteljskih objekata, vinskih cesta i drugih sadržaja Certified horse-riding routes pass through forests, along watercourses, and through field roads while interconnecting family farms, restaurants and cafes, wine roads, and other cultural offerings

ce, all you have to do is bring your sense of adventure along. 

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Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos _ TZ Koprivničko-križevačke županije/Koprivnica-Križevci County TB

watercourses, and through field roads created and used by the lo-

Zagrebačka županija Zagreb County GRAD DUGO SELO Terra Sancti Martini, Zemlja svetog Martina − tako su još u 13. st. ovaj dio vinorodnog područja dvadesetak kilometara istočno od Zagreba nazivali vitezovi templari dobivši ga na dar od kralja Andrije II. Danas vas Grad Dugo Selo, nastavljajući tu slavnu

Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos _ TZ Dugo Selo/Dugo Selo TB

tradiciju, dočekuje uz gutljaj vina iz Gradskog vinograda, poziva na vožnju martinbreškim biciklističkim stazama, izaziva na dozu adrenalina na najvećem hrvatskom pumptrack poligonu, čeka uz bačenu udicu na gradskom ribnjaku, mami na šetnju i odmor pod stoljetnim stablima, koja su u parku svoje negdašnje kurije osobno posadili članovi grofovske obitelji Drašković. Nemojte se začuditi ako vas na dugoselskim ulicama članovi KUD-a Preporod, jednog od najstarijih i najboljih hrvatskih folklornih ansambala, pozovu na ples i budite sigurni da iz Dugog Sela nećete otići gladni. Stara jela z Dugog Sela, najpoznatija gastro manifestacija ovoga kraja, čuva tradicionalne recepte poslužene u bakinom emajliranom tanjuriću, podsjećajući da su i naši stari živjeli plastic i waste free. Dobrodošli, dakle, u Dugo Selo! Tu ste k’o doma! 

THE TOWN OF DUGO SELO Terra Sancti Martini or the Land of Saint Martin − this is what the Knights Templar used to call the wine-growing land some twenty kilometres east of Zagreb that they were gifted in the 13th century by Andrew II, King of Hungary and Croatia. Today, the town of Dugo Selo, in continuing this famous tradition, welcomes you with a glass of wine from the Town’s Vineyard, invites you to take a bike ride on its Martin Hill, challenges you to an adrenaline adventure at 02

01 Perivoj grofa Draškovića Count Drašković’s Park 02 Biciklisti pred starom crkvom na Martin Bregu Cyclists outside the old church on Martin Hill

Croatia’s biggest pump track training ground, beckons you to hone your skills as a fisherman in the town’s fish pond, and entices you to take long walks and a break under century-old trees, which were planted by members of the House of Drašković themselves on the land encircling what was once their manor house. Do not be taken by surprise if members of the Preporod Folklore Ensemble, one of Croatia’s oldest and best folklore ensembles, invite you to join them in a dance on the streets of Dugo Selo. And know that you won’t leave hungry. The Dishes of Old of Dugo Selo, the most famous food festival in the region, has been looking after the region’s traditional recipes that were best served in grandma’s enamel plates, reminding us that our ancestors lived plastic- and waste-free lives. So welcome to Dugo Selo, where you’ll feel like home. 

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Karlovačka županija Karlovac County NIKOLA TESLA EXPERIENCE CENTRE Da je Nikola Tesla jedan od najvećih znanstvenika u povijesti, zna cijeli svijet. No da je svoju školsku avanturu započeo u Velikoj realnoj gimnaziji u Karlovcu, to je već manje poznato, kao i to da je na njega između svih njegovih profesora posebno utjecao profesor Martin Sekulić. Bio je vizionar i veliko Teslino nadahnuće. Predavao mu je elektrotehniku i matematiku te je bio aktivan istraživač. Sekulić je 1873. izabran za dopisnog člana Akademije znanosti i umjetnosti u Zagrebu, dok je Tesla pohađao školu. Sekulić je također utemeljio fizikalni laboratorij opremljen iznimno bogatom zbirkom od 579 instrumenata. U svojoj autobiografiji Tesla je spomenuo Sekulićeve genijalne eksperimente koji su ga inspirirali i potaknuli da odabere elektrotehniku kao svoj životni poziv. Danas možete istražiti to razdoblje Teslina obrazovanja i susreta s Martinom Sekulićem u Nikola Tesla Experience Centru, smještenom na adresi Rakovac 6, u neposrednoj blizini Gimnazije

Karlovac, škole koju je Tesla upisao 1870. te u kojoj je maturirao 1873. godine. Centar pruža fascinantan uvid u Teslin život i rad

NIKOLA TESLA EXPERIENCE CENTRE

kroz ilustracije, animirane i dokumentarne filmove, projekcije te

That Nikola Tesla is one of the greatest scientists in human history

misaone igre. Osim što ćete naučiti više o Tesli, ovdje možete

is a well-known fact the world over. But that his school adventu-

probuditi vlastitu kreativnost i nadahnuti se njegovim revolucio-

res began at the Great General Grammar School in the town of

narnim izumima. Zvuči zanimljivo, zar ne? 

Karlovac is a lesser-known fact. It is also a little-known fact that Tesla was most profoundly influenced by professor Martin Sekulić, a visionary and a great source of inspiration for Tesla. An active researcher, professor Sekulić was Tesla’s electrical engineering and mathematics teacher. In 1873, when Tesla was still his pupil, professor Sekulić was elected a corresponding member of the Academy of Sciences and Arts in Zagreb. Professor Sekulić also set up a physics laboratory equipped with as many as 579 instruments. In his autobiography, Tesla mentions professor Sekulić’s ingenious experiments that inspired and encouraged him to choose electrical To explore the history of Tesla’s education and his meetings with professor Martin Sekulić, head to the Nikola Tesla Experience Centre located at 6 Rakovac Street in the immediate vicinity of the Karlovac Grammar School, the school in which Tesla enrolled in 1870, and from which he graduated in 1873. The centre provides a fascinating insight into Tesla’s life and work through illustrations, animated and documentary films, projections and thought experiments. Here, you’ll not only learn more about Tesla, but will also have your own creativity sparked. To leave inspired by Tesla's revolutionary inventions sounds captivating, doesn't it?  01 Mural posvećen profesoru Martinu Sekuliću u blizini Nikola Tesla Experience Centra A mural dedicated to professor Martin Sekulić near the Nikola Tesla Experience Centre 02 Tesline ruka iz koje lete iskre u Nikola Tesla Experience Centru Tesla’s hand that makes sparks fly at the Nikola Tesla Experience Centre 02

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Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos _ TZ Karlovačke županije/Karlovac County TB

engineering as his calling in life.

Zadarska županija Zadar County MAŠKOVIĆA HAN Maškovića han mjesto je dodira istoka i zapada, najzapadnija europska građevina islamske kulture. Iza ulaza na kojem se uspinju karakteristični islamski oštri lukovi nalazi se hotel s

Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos _ TZ Pakoštane/Pakoštane TB

restoranom i vrijednom arheološkom zbirkom s područja Vrane i Pakoštana. Zbirka obuhvaća dugi niz razdoblja: prapovijesno razdoblje, antiku, koja je ostavila brojne uporabne predmete, posude, čaše, uljanice; zatim srednjovjekovlje i njegovu ostavštinu u nakitu, novcu i keramici, i konačno, tursko razdoblje, iz kojeg potječu dijelovi nadgrobnih spomenika i jedna topovska kugla pronađenu u hanu tijekom obnove. Ovaj mali muzej dopu01

njen je novim Interpretacijskim centrom te pričom o pomorstvu i ribarstvu u obližnjim vodama. Planira se otvaranje ljetnog kina

THE MAŠKOVIĆA HAN CARAVANSERAI

i pokretanje radionica za izradu keramike tradicionalnim tehni-

The westernmost building of Islamic culture on European soil, the

kama. Sve je pokriveno multimedijom i otvara vrata čarobnog

Maškovića Han caravanserai is a place where the East and the

svijeta tradicije i kulture u suvremenom ruhu, i to u neposrednoj

West meet. Behind the entrance, where pointed arches typical of

blizini Vranskog jezera, prirodnog bisera okruženog vidikovcima,

Islamic architecture rise, the edifice today houses a hotel and a

maslinicima i opojnim mirisima samoniklog i ljekovitog bilja. 

restaurant, as well as a valuable archaeological collection from the areas surrounding the towns of Vrana and Pakoštane. The collection’s exhibits come from a long stretch of times: prehistory, antiquity when numerous useful everyday objects such as vessels, glasses, and oil lamps were left behind, the Middle Ages and its heritage in jewellery, money, and ceramics, and finally the period of the Ottoman Empire that parts of tombstones and a cannon ball found in the caravanserai during renovation date from. This small museum has been extended with a new Interpretation Centre that tells the story of seafaring and fishing in the nearby waters. Plans have been drawn up to open an open-air summer cinema and a ceramics workshop dedicated to teaching traditional ceramic techniques only. Multimedia-enhanced, the Maškovića Han caravanserai opens the door to a magical world of tradition and culture wearing modern-day attire in the immediate vicinity of Lake Vrana, a nature’s gem spotted with lookout points, and enveloped in olive groves, and the intoxicating scents of wild herbs and medicinal plants. 

01 Spomenik kulture Maškovića han The Maškovića Han caravanserai cultural heritage site 02 Restoran heritage hotela Maškovića han The Maškovića Han Heritage Hotel and Restaurant 03 Detalj muzeja Mašković hana A detail of the Maškovića Han museum

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Šibensko-kninska županija Šibenik-Knin County HRVATSKI CENTAR KORALJA ZLARIN Prema legendi crveni koralj nastao je od prolivene Meduzine krvi, a njegova veza s ljudima stara je koliko i civilizacija. Od trenutka kada ga je čovjek prvi put izronio iz dubine, koralj je preplavio svijet pa tako i jedan mali otok u šibenskom arhipelana koralje sežu još u 15. stoljeće. Od tada crvene se grane i njihova mistična ljepota postojano provlače kroz sve pore života, povijesti i tradicije otoka. Priča o tradiciji koraljarstva danas je ispričana u Hrvatskom centru koralja Zlarin. Muzej smješten na originalnoj lokaciji na kojoj su se na otoku obrađivali koralji − u kući Kažerma, donosi priču o dubokoj povezanosti koralja i

V. Baranović, HCKZ/ZCCC

gu − Zlarin. Prvi zapisi o Zlarinjanima kao najpoznatijim lovcima

Zlarinjana. Uz korištenje suvremene tehnologije, virtualne i proširene stvarnosti, originalnih fotografija i zapisa koje je vrijeme skoro progutalo i cijenjenim koraljnim nakitom interpretirana je

ZLARIN’S CROATIAN CORAL CENTRE

povijest otoka koralja.

According to legend, the red coral came into existence from the

Danas se lovom na koralje smiju baviti rijetki, a poruka o potrebi

blood that gushed from Medusa’s head. The red coral’s connection

očuvanja raznolikog života pod morem naglašena je kroz cijeli

with humanity is as old as time itself. Since the moment it was first

muzejski postav, koji zaokružuje dojmljiva skulptura na zadnjoj

plucked from the depths of the sea, coral has flooded the world,

etaži muzeja. 

including a tiny island in Šibenik’s archipelago − Zlarin. Historical records that make reference to the people of Zlarin as the most famous coral hunters date from the 15th century. Since then, red coral branches and their mystical beauty have been steadily infusing all the pores of the life, history, and traditions of Zlarin. Zlarin’s Croatian Coral Centre tells the story of the tradition of coral gardening. Located at the very spot where corals were once processed on the island, the Kažerma House, the museum tells the story of the deep connection between corals and the people of Zlarin. The history of the island of coral is interpreted with the help of modern technology, virtual and augmented reality, original photographs and records that Today, only few have a coral hunting permit, while the message about the need to preserve marine biodiversity has permeated the entire museum, whose displays are rounded off by an impressive sculpture on the last floor of the museum.  Tekst/Text _ Hrvatski centar koralja Zlarin/Zlarin’s Croatian Coral Centre

V. Baranović, HCKZ/ZCCC

have been preserved in the nick of time, and prized coral jewellery.

02 Interaktivni postav Hrvatskog centra koralja Zlarin, otok Zlarin The interactive displays of Zlarin’s Croatian Coral Centre, island of Zlarin 03 VR iskustvo u Hrvatskom centru koralja Zlarin, otok Zlarin VR experience at Zlarin’s Croatian Coral Centre, island of Zlarin

M. Gregov, HCKZ/ZCCC

01 Prirodni crveni koralj, Hrvatski centar koralja Zlarin, otok Zlarin A genuine red coral, Zlarin’s Croatian Coral Centre, island of Zlarin

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Dubrovačko-neretvanska županija Dubrovnik-Neretva County ROTONDA U OŠLJU Rotonda je neslužbeni naziv ostataka male crkve smještene na padinama brda Utrk, koje se spušta prema malostonskom zaljevu. Nalazi se pokraj malog sela Ošlje blizu granice s Bosnom i Hercegovinom na području općine Dubrovačko primorje. Sami lokalitet mještani nazivaju Bijela lokva zbog pojilišta koje se nalazi u blizini. Ošlje je nekad bilo jedno od većih naseljenih mjesta, a zasigurno i jedno od najstarijih jer se spominje već u 10. Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos _ TZO Dubrovačko primorje/Dubrovnik Primorje TB

stoljeću, a danas ima tek nekoliko desetaka stanovnika. Crkvica 01

je prepuna misterija. Riječ je o građevini kakvih je u svijetu jako malo, dok je u Hrvatskoj Rotonda jedna od dvije takve − kružnog tlocrta s osam apsida s vanjske i unutarnje strane. Apsida

THE ROTUNDA IN OŠLJE

je polukružni prostor crkve nadsvođen polukupolom. Rotonda u

Located near the village of Ošlje close to the border with Bosnia

Ošlju nema sačuvan svod ni kupolu. Njezino je istraživanje za-

and Herzegovina in the municipality of Dubrovnik Primorje, Rotunda

početo 1950-ih, kada su napravljeni i prvi konzervatorski zahvati

is the unofficial name of the remains of a small church resting on

na crkvi, međutim Rotonda je do današnjih dana ostala prilično

the slopes of Utrk Hill, which descends towards the Bay of Mali

skrivena i od posjetitelja i od znanstvenika i istraživača. Zato ni

Ston. Locals refer to the locality as the White Puddle because of

ne znamo kad je točno građena, ali se pretpostavlja da je riječ

a nearby waterhole. The village of Ošlje was once not only one of

o 10. stoljeću. Ne znamo ni kako se crkva zvala jer o tome ne

the larger inhabited places in the region, but also one of the oldest

postoje nikakvi sačuvani tragovi. Ne znamo ni tko ju je gradio

given that it was made reference to in the 10th century. Today,

ni s kojom svrhom, ali pretpostavljamo da je riječ o privatnoj

however, only a few dozen inhabitants live there. The church is

avanturi jednog od vladara u to doba. Zanimljivo je da Rotonda

shrouded in mystery. A type of structure of which there are very few

sve više privlači pažnju istraživača zvuka jer posjeduje stanovita

in the world, the Rotunda is one of two such structures in Croatia −

akustička svojstva koja joj omogućuju da zvuk ostaje unutra,

it boasts a circular floor plan featuring eight apses on both the out-

dok se vanjski zvuk odbija. 

side and the inside. Apses are the semi-circular areas of churches surmounted by semi-domes. Neither the vault nor the dome of the Rotunda in Ošlje have been preserved. In the 1950s, when the first conservation work was carried out on the church, the Rotunda was looked into in more detail, although to this day it remains hidden from visitors, scientists, and researchers alike. This is why nobody knows when it was actually built. It is assumed, however, that it dates from the 10th century. Even its name remains a mystery given that no preserved traces as to its name have been found. We don’t even know who built it or for what purpose, although the assumption is that erecting it may have been a private endeavour of one of the rulers at that time. The Rotunda has been increasingly attracting the attention of acoustics researchers as it possesses certain acoustic properties that allow sound to remain inside, while outside sound is reflected. 

01 Skrivena čak i od slučajnih putnika, Rotonda se nalazi pokraj malog sela Ošlje, jednoga od najstarijih naseljenih mjesta iz 10. stoljeća Hidden even from casual visitors, the Rotunda lies near the hamlet of Ošlje from the 10th century, one of the oldest inhabited places in Croatia 02 Crkvica Rotonda, okružena raslinjem, tajnovito stoji na zelenim padinama Surrounded by vegetation while resting on green slopes, the Rotunda church is shrouded in mystery

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MODA FASHION

PIŠE/BY __ Sandro Salopek FOTOGRAFIJE/PHOTOS __ Mladen Šarić

Sovilj je prestižan hrvatski brend umjetnički oblikovanog nakita, koji se etablirao kao neizostavan dio domaće nakitne, modne, zlatarske i draguljarske scene. Naziv dijeli s prezimenom svojeg tvorca, 43-godišnjeg Zagrepčanina Nenada. Sovilj is a prestigious Croatian brand of artistically designed jewellery, which has made a name for itself on the local jewellery, fashion, and goldsmithery scenes. It shares its name with the surname of its creator, 43-year-old Nenad Sovilj from Zagreb.

ako je jedan od najeminentnijih predstavnika hrvatske nakitne umjetnosti, javnosti je manje poznato da je Nenad Sovilj po zvanju inženjer agronomije, ali po pozivu nepopravljiv esteta i zaljubljenik u biljke i općenito prirodu. Stoga ne čudi da je upravo iz jedne od malih skulptura, koje je izrađivao u okrilju svojeg malog, a raskošnog vrta obiteljske kuće u Samoborskom gorju, gdje oduvijek prevladavaju zelene četinjače, njegova najdraža skupina biljaka, proizašla i njegova prva narukvica. Prvi radovi objavljeni su mu u časopisima Elle i Cosmopolitan, nakon čega započinje njegova iznimno produktivna i svestrana dizajnerska karijera.

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Dobitnik je prestižnih nagrada Red Dot za najbolji vizualni identitet brenda Sovilj u kategoriji Communication design − Corporate design 2011. te Elle Style u kategoriji najboljeg dizajnera nakita 2015. godine, a od 2017. ima i diplomu certificiranog procjenitelja dijamanata. Stekao ju je na uglednom Međunarodnom institutu za gemologiju u Antwerpenu, nakon čega poslovno djeluje i kao posrednik u trgovini dijamantima i dragim kamenjem, a zbog spleta osobnih okolnosti simboli i njihova značenja postaju sastavni dio njegova umjetničkog stvaralaštva, kojem pristupa sve više kontemplativno i produhovljeno. Tijekom školovanja u Belgiji zaljubio se u dijamante očaran njihovom čistoćom i kristalnom strukturom. Stoga nije čudno da Sovilj svoju fascinaciju prirodom i njezinim skladom, čija se estetika temelji na geometrijskim oblicima u prostoru, tako vješto pretače u svoj umjetnički opus, prepoznatljiv upravo po unikatnim elementima umjetničke skulpture, motivima i materijalima. Soviljev nakit kao osobni statement redovito biraju uspješni i modno osviješteni pripadnici obaju spolova i svih dobnih skupina. Osim mnogih poznatih osoba iz nacionalnog, regionalnog i svjetskog javnog života, od kojih osobito valja istaknuti imena poput Roisin Murphy, Lady Gage, Loralee Ascot, Soumaye Slim, Severine, Nenad Sovilj dobio je i veliko javno priznanje 2020., kada je uoči inauguracije hrvatskog predsjednika Zorana Milanovića pozvan da dizajnira nakit za prvu damu Sanju Musić Milanović.

Iza brenda Sovilj dosad je 18 kolekcija nakita predstavljenih javnosti na izložbama, od kojih su neke bile humanitarnog karaktera, ali uvijek zapažene pod njegovim kreativnim vodstvom na atraktivnim lokacijama te predstavljene u brojnim medijima. Svojom posljednjom izložbom Genesis, kojom je u rujnu 2023. u zagrebačkoj galeriji Klovićevi dvori proslavio punoljetnost svojeg umjetničkog djelovanja, Sovilj je potvrdio opravdano stečeni renome nakitnog umjetnika − tvorca unikata izvan vremenskih i stilskih okvira. 

lthough Nenad Sovilj is one of Croatia’s most prominent art jewellers, it is a lesser-known fact that he is an agricultural engineer by profession. That’s probably because, by passion, he’s a formidable aesthete, and a lover of plants and nature in general. It comes as no surprise then that his first bracelet was modelled on one of the small sculptures that he sculpted in the small yet luxurious garden of his family house in the Mountains of Samobor, which are reigned over by green conifers, his favourite group of plants. His first works were published in the magazines Elle and Cosmopolitan, after which his extremely prolific and versatile design career took off. He is the recipient of a prestigious Red Dot Award for the visual identity of the Sovilj brand in the Communication Design − Corporate Design category in 2011, and an Elle Style Award in the category of Best Jewellery Designer in 2015. In 2017, he received his certified gemmologist appraiser’s diploma from the prestigious International Gemmological

Narukvice i prstenje od smole, raznih metala i poludragog kamenja Bracelets and rings made of resin, various metals, and semi-precious stones

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Ogrlica Zeus (zlato, srebro, smaragd) / prsten Muse (zlato, smaragd), kolekcija Genesis, 2023. Zeus necklace (gold, silver, emerald) / Muse ring (gold, emerald), Genesis collection, 2023

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Institute in Antwerp, after which he started working as an intermediary in the trade of diamonds and precious stones as well. Due to a combination of personal circumstances, symbols and their meanings became an integral part of his artistic creativity, which he now approaches in an increasingly contemplative and spiritual fashion. During his studies in Belgium, he fell in love with diamonds, enchanted by their purity and their cubic crystal structure. It comes as no surprise then that Sovilj translates his fascination with nature and its harmony, whose aesthetics are based on geometric shapes in space, so skilfully into his artistic oeuvre, recognisable precisely thanks to the unique elements of artistic sculpture, motifs, and materials that he uses. Sovilj pieces are regularly chosen as statement pieces of jewellery by successful and fashion-conscious women and men of all ages. Besides the recognition his jewellery has gained by the fact that many famous people from Croatia, the region, and the world wear Sovilj pieces − from amongst whom the names of Severina, Róisín

Ogrlica Strigidae queen (smola, zlato, srebro, topaz, rubin), kolekcija Sapiens, 2017. Strigidae Queen necklace (resin, gold, silver, topaz, ruby), Sapiens collection, 2017

Skulpturalni cvjetovi Titanide (smola, srebro, zlato, drago kamenje), kolekcija Genesis, 2023. Titanide sculptural flowers (resin, silver, gold, gemstones), Genesis collection, 2023

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Murphy, Lady Gaga, Loralee Ascot, and Soumaya Slim stand out − Nenad received great public recognition in 2020, when he was invited to design the jewellery that the future first lady of Croatia, Sanja Musić Milanović, was to wear on the occasion of the presidential inauguration ceremony of Croatia’s President, Zoran Milanović. The Sovilj brand boasts as many as 18 jewellery collections. All have been presented to the public at exhibitions, some of which were charitable in nature. His creative leadership and all his exhibitions have caught the attention and the eye of the media. With his latest exhibition, Genesis, with which he celebrated the coming of age of his artistic creativity in September 2023 in Zagreb’s Klovićevi Dvori gallery, Sovilj lived up to his well-earned reputation as a jewellery artist − a creator of unique and timeless pieces that keep on pushing back the boundaries of style. 

01 Ogrlica i elementi ogrlice Morph te element ogrlice Satellite (pozlaćeno srebro, biseri, smola), kolekcija Metamorphosis, 2020. Morph necklace and necklace elements, and Satellite necklace element (gold-plated silver, pearls, resin), Metamorphosis collection, 2020 02 Ogrlica Feather (smola, pozlaćeno srebro, ametist, pero papige Psittacula eupatria), kolekcija Aleksandar, 2021. Feather necklace (resin, gold-plated silver, amethyst, Alexandrine parakeet feather), Aleksandar collection, 2021

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Nenad Sovilj 2013. otvara svoju prvu trgovinu nakitom u gradu Hvaru, a 2014. dućan otvara i u Zagrebu, na adresi Amruševa 5. Soviljev zagrebački butik New York Times je 2015. prepoznao kao jedan od onih koje preporučuje ljubiteljima domaćih rukotvorina, a 2016. uvršten je i u posebno izdanje Michelinova vodiča Le Guide Vert. Na poziv društva Maistra d.d., Sovilj 2019. otvara luksuznu trgovinu vlastitog nakita i umjetnina u okviru hotela Grand Park u Rovinju, ali je zbog pandemije 2020. zatvara te pokreće online boutique na svojoj internetskoj stranici www.sovilj.com. Valja istaknuti da je osobno dizajnirao interijer i namještaj svake svoje trgovine. Tako je 2021., nakon što je 2017. dizajnirao i proizveo personalizirani držač pribora za jelo za restoran Portrait u Dubrovniku, radi personaliziranog pristupa klijentima i s ciljem širenja svojeg kreativnog stvaralaštva na dizajn interijera te proizvodnju pokućstva i namještaja, otvorio privatno-poslovni prostor na zagrebačkoj adresi Teslina 16, pod nazivom Salon16 (povodom 16. rođendana brenda Sovilj), u kojem je izradio stropni mural, čija je fotografija 2022. objavljena na naslovnici službenog časopisa Turističke zajednice Grada Zagreba Enjoy Zagreb. Istaknuti regionalni internetski medij Journal.hr povjerio mu je 2023. dizajn proljetne darovne kutije. Nenad Sovilj opened his first jewellery store in the town

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of Hvar in 2013, and in 2014 he opened a store in Zagreb as well at 5 Amruševa Street. In 2015, Sovilj’s boutique in Zagreb was recognised and singled out by The New York Times as one the newspaper recommends to lovers

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of local handicrafts. In 2016, it was included in a special edition of Michelin’s Le Guide Vert. At the invitation of the company Maistra d.d., in 2019 Sovilj opened a luxury jewellery and art store in the Grand Park Hotel in Rovinj, but due to the pandemic, it closed in 2020, after which he launched an online boutique at sovilj.com. It should be noted that the interior and the furniture in each of his stores were designed by him personally. In 2017 he designed and produced a personalised cutlery holder for the Portrait restaurant in Dubrovnik, in which his personalised approach to clients became apparent. With the aim of expanding his creativity to interior design and furniture production, this spurred him to open a private business space in 2021 at 16 Teslina Street in Zagreb, the name

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of which is Salon16 (the number 16 was chosen to mark the 16th birthday of the Sovilj brand). In it, he created a ceiling mural, a photo of which was published in 2022 on the cover of the magazine of the Zagreb Tourist Board, Enjoy Zagreb. Journal.hr, a prominent regional online media outlet, entrusted him with the design of a spring gift box in 2023.

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The gate of Dubrovnik. Introducing Dubrovnik as a city of science and invention, not just old forts and walls, the airport now carries the name of a renowned 18th-century scientist and philosopher who was born in Dubrovnik and went on to change the world.

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www.airport-dubrovnik.hr Ruđer Bošković Airport is operated by Dubrovnik Airport Ltd. CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 77

ARHITEKTURA ARCHITECTURE

NOVA GRUNTOVNICA THE NEW LAND REGISTRY PIŠE/BY __ Ivan Dorotić FOTOGRAFIJE/PHOTOS __ Bosnić + Dorotić

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Na zapadnom dijelu Zagreba početkom ove godine otvorena je nova zagrebačka Gruntovnica. Važnost realizacije ovog projekta prepoznata je i izvan granica Hrvatske nominacijom za nagradu Europske unije za suvremenu arhitekturu − EU Mies van der Rohe Award. The new Land Registry building was opened in Zagreb earlier this year. The importance of this project has been recognized beyond the borders of Croatia with a nomination for the European prize for contemporary architecture − the EU Mies van der Rohe Award.

unog imena ZK odjel Općinskoga građanskog suda u Zagrebu, nova Gruntovnica nalazi se u rekonstruiranoj zgradi Male jašionice, koja je bila dio austrougarskog vojnog kompleksa, te njezinoj stakleno-čeličnoj nadogradnji. Arhitektonski projekt, koji potpisuje arhitekt Davor Bušnja iz arhitektonskog ureda MORE arhitekture, ovjenčan je najvažnijim domaćih priznanjima u arhitekturi − nagradom Vladimir Nazor Ministarstva kulture i medija u kategoriji arhitekture i urbanizma, koju svake godine Republika Hrvatska dodjeljuje za najbolja umjetnička ostvarenja, te godišnjom nagradom Viktor Kovačić Udruženja hrvatskih arhitekata za najuspješnija ostvarenja u svim područjima arhitektonskog stvaralaštva. Važnost realizacije ovog projekta prepoznata je i izvan granica Hrvatske nominacijom za

nagradu Europske unije za suvremenu arhitekturu − EU Mies van der Rohe Award. Nova Gruntovnica dio je budućeg zagrebačkog Trga pravde, prvonagrađenog rješenja iz javnog natječaja, koji bi na jednome mjestu trebao objediniti sve zagrebačke sudove − općinski, trgovački, visoki trgovački, županijski, upravni i visoki upravni. Rekonstrukcija male jašionice bila je izrazito zahtjevan angažman koji je rezultirao uspješnom transformacijom građevine iz 1903. godine u suvremene prostore Općinskoga građanskog suda. Kroz ovaj strukovno hvaljeni uradak Davora Bušnje crvena zgrada obnovljene građevine jašionice dobila je svoj kontrapunkt u novoj stakleno-bijeloj zgradi. Zgrada Gruntovnice nalazi se nasuprot poznatoj zagrebačkoj umjetničkoj destinaciji − galerijskog prostora Laube.

01 Crveni objekt zgrade nekadašnje jašionice dobiva svoj kontrapunkt u bijelo-staklenoj zgradi The red building of the renovated riding hall has received its counterpoint in the form of the new glass, white building 02 Ulazno predvorje na spoju male jašionice i suvremenog aneksa The entrance area at the junction of the small riding hall and the modern extension 02 CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 79

jala se od dvaju značajnih dijelova: prostrane hale za jahanje i manjeg ulaznog volumena, a nove projektne aktivnosti stavile su naglasak na očuvanju te kompozicije. Danas ulazni prostor Gruntovnice, smješten na spoju male jašionice i nove staklene nadogradnje, funkcionira kao natkriveni vanjski prostor, stvarajući urbani pasaž između prometne ceste i budućeg Trga pravde. Arhitektonska odluka da se nadogradnja izvede kao potpuno proziran objekt reflektira otvorenost ove institucije prema gradu i građanima. Opisujući koncept projekta i njegove značajke, Krunoslav Ivanišin, član Stručnog savjeta Udruženja hrvatskih arhitekata koji je Gruntovnici dodijelilo nagradu Viktor Kovačić, ističe: − Apstraktni pojmovi uredske zgrade i nepokretnoga kulturnog dobra ovdje su ispunjeni i osmišljeni arhitekturom, umetanjem kombinirane armiranobetonske i čelične konstrukcije u masivno ziđe koje je opet utaknuto u laganu opnu od čelika i stakla. Prostornim i programskim preklapanjem staroga i novoga, ritmičkom izmjenom punoga i praznoga u interijeru s varijacijama, rekonstrukcijom i (nado)gradnjom utilitarne građevine bez posebne ljepote, iz zaboravljene jašionice u napuštenoj vojarni na negdašnjem rubu grada izvedena je važna centralna institucija. Temeljita obnova i dogradnja Male jašionice označavaju početak ambicioznih planova za revitalizaciju tog dijela Zagreba. Uspješna izvedba demonstrira kako pažljivo planiranje, očuvanje kulturne baštine i suvremeni dizajn mogu transformirati urbano okruženje i infrastrukturu te obogatiti kulturni kontekst grada. 

01 Prostor između stare i nove građevine, urbani pasaž između prometne ulice i budućeg Trga pravde The space between the old and the new building, an urban passage between the busy road and the future Justice Square 02 Lokacija nove Gruntovnice jest nasuprot zgrade Laube The new Land Registry sits right across the Lauba building

Zanimljivo je da su ove dvije građevine povezane svojom povijesnom svrhom; nova je Gruntovnica smještena u nekadašnjoj maloj natkrivenoj jašionici, dok se Lauba nalazi u bivšoj velikoj jašionici. Očuvati odnos i specifični dijalog između dviju zaštićenih povijesnih građevina, koje su važan dio zagrebačke arhitektonske baštine, bila je važna premisa za arhitekte. Originalna struktura male jašionice sasto02

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01 U oblikovanju interijera koriste se transparentni materijali kojima se postiže prirodno osvijetljenje i preglednost prostora In interior design, transparent materials have been used to achieve natural lighting and translucency of the space 02 Zgrada male natkrivene jašionice bila je dio austrougarskog vojnog kompleksa The small riding hall was once part of the Austro-Hungarian military complex

he new Land Registry, formally named the Land Registry Department of the Municipal Civil Court in Zagreb, is located in the reconstructed facility of the small riding hall, once part of the Austro-Hungarian military complex, to which has now been added a glass and steel extension. The architectural project, led by architect Davor Bušnja from the MORE arhitekture practice, has been crowned with the most important domestic awards in architecture − the Vladimir Nazor award of the Ministry of Culture and Media in the category of architecture and urbanism, which the Republic of Croatia awards every year for best artistic achievements, and the annual Viktor Kovačić award of the Croatian Architects’ Association for best achievements in all areas of architectural creation. The importance of this project has been recognized beyond the borders of Croatia with a nomination for the European prize for contemporary architecture − the EU Mies van der Rohe Award. The new Land Registry building is part of the future Justice Square in Zagreb, the first-prized solution for a public development project that should bring all Zagreb

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01 Dogradnja je projektirana tako da se sugerira otvorenost ove institucije prema gradu i građanima The reconstruction was designed to reflect the openness of this institution towards the city and its citizens 02 Zgrada Gruntovnice tretirana je kao paviljon u zelenilu, koje oplemenjuje radni ambijent The Land Registry building is seen as a pavilion immersed in foliage, which improves the work environment

courts into one place − municipal, commercial, high commercial, county, administrative, and high administrative courts. The reconstruction of the small riding hall was an extremely demanding enterprise that resulted in the successful transformation of the building from 1903 into the modern premises of the Municipal Civil Court. Through the professionally acclaimed work of Davor Bušnja, the red building of the renovated riding hall received its counterpoint in the form of the new glass, white building. The Land Registry building is located opposite a well-known Zagreb art destination − the Lauba gallery space. It is interesting that these two buildings are connected by their historical purpose; the new Land Registry is located in the former small riding hall, while Lauba is located in the former large riding hall. Preserving the relationship and specific dialogue between the two protected historical buildings, which are an important part of Zagreb’s architectural heritage, was a vital focal point for the architects. The original structure of the small riding hall consisted of two significant parts: a spacious riding hall and a smaller entrance area, and the new project emphasized the preservation of that composition. Today, the entrance area of Land Registry, located at the junction of the small riding hall and the new glass extension, functions as a covered outdoor space, creating an urban passage between the busy road and the future Justice Square. The architectural decision to carry out the extension as a

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completely transparent structure reflects the openness of this institution towards the city and its citizens. Describing the concept of the project and its features, Krunoslav Ivanišin, a member of the Expert Committee of the Association of Croatian Architects who awarded the Land Registry project with the Viktor Kovačić award, points out: − The abstract notions of an office building and an immobile cultural property have been met and enabled through architecture, by inserting a combined reinforced concrete and steel construction into a massive wall complex, which was then inserted into a light membrane made of steel and glass. Through spatial and program overlap-

ping of old and new, rhythmic change of exhaustive and vacant in the interior with variations, reconstruction and (up)building of a utilitarian facility lacking particular beauty, an important central institution was created from a forgotten riding hall in an abandoned barracks on what used to be the edge of the city. The thorough renovation and extension of the small riding hall mark the beginning of ambitious plans for the revitalization of that part of Zagreb. This successful undertaking showcases how careful planning, preservation of cultural heritage, and contemporary design can transform the urban environment and infrastructure and enrich the cultural context of the city. 

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ZDRAVSTVENI TURIZAM HEALTH TOURISM

KVARNER − REGIJA U KOJU SE ODUVIJEK DOLAZILO PO ZDRAVLJE KVARNER − A REGION THAT HAS ALWAYS BEEN VISITED FOR HEALTH PURPOSES Ljekovita esencija Kvarnera na otoku Lošinju: šetnica između kristalno čistog mora i mediteranske šume The healing essence of the region of Kvarner on the island of Lošinj: a seafront promenade between the crystal-clear water of the sea and a Mediterranean forest

varner je oduvijek bio mjesto kamo se dolazilo po zdravlje. Još u 19. stoljeću poznate su kvarnerske destinacije bile proglašene službenim lječilištima Austro-Ugarske Monarhije te je tadašnjem plemstvu bilo uobičajeno dati liječničku uputnicu za boravak na Kvarneru kao terapiju za brojna stanja tijela i duha. Danas te klimatske blagodati u kombinaciji s mediteranskom prehranom i zdravim kretanjem nazivamo Kvarner efekt, s kojim ćete se zasigurno upoznati tijekom boravka na Kvarneru. Tragom ideje dramatičara Euripida da more ispire sve zlo s čovjeka, već su grčki i rimski liječnici vjerovali u morske kupke kao lijek, kao i u utjecaj morskog zraka i sunca na zdravlje. No do procvata

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zdravstvenog turizma na Kvarneru došlo je u drugoj polovici 19. stoljeća, kada Austro-Ugarska Monarhija proglašava klimatska lječilišta, uređuju se kupališta, grade hoteli, gradi prometna i druga infrastruktura, a cijela se regija pretvara u privlačnu lječilišnu destinaciju. Nakon što je stručni liječnički tim znanstveno utvrdio blagodati klimatoterapije i talasoterapije u Opatiji, koja zatim carskim dekretom 1889. godine postaje prvo klimatsko lječilište na tadašnjoj jadranskoj obali, uslijedilo je proglašenje lječilištem otoka Lošinja 1892. godine te 1906. godine Crikveničke rivijere. Kvarner je zahvaljujući iznimno povoljnim klimatskim značajkama, prometnoj dostupnosti i ljepoti vrlo rano počeo s

razvojem zdravstvenog turizma kojem treba zahvaliti i na prvim turističkim koracima. Klimatska lječilišta u Opatiji, Crikvenici, Velom i Malom Lošinju, na Rabu te u gorskokotarskim središtima Skradu i Delnicama izgrađena su već potkraj 19. i početkom 20. stoljeća. Bilo da želite liječiti bolesti ili ih, još bolje, spriječiti, u kvarnerskim odredištima naći ćete odlične klimatske mogućnosti kao i visokostručnu medicinsku uslugu te razne rekreacijske programe. Ovdašnje zdravstvene ustanove te wellness centri u sebi ujedinjuju najbolje od stručne zdravstvene usluge kao i znanosti o ljepoti pa možete birati između mnogih programa koji koriste tijelu i duhu. Već i samim boravkom na otocima, u priobalju i gorju, šetnjom uz more ili šumom, vi činite mnogo za svoje zdravlje. Kvarner je prava aromaterapija na otvorenome! Uz mediteransku klimu, više od 200 sunčanih dana godišnje i ljekovito bilje čini se da su svi preduvjeti za zdravo okruženje dani Kvarneru. Kvarner efekt ili pojednostavljeno kvarnerska aromaterapija na otvorenome Bura − suhi, hladni vjetar koji puše iz sjeveroistočnog smjera i donosi hladno

i svježije vrijeme − motor je lječilišnog procesa koji se zove Kvarner efekt (Kvarner Effekt). Ovaj se vjetar naprosto baci na površinu mora, koja tada pukne i oslobodi čestice mora u zrak. Nešto slično poput postupka ušpricavanja prerađene morske vode iz spreja. No na Kvarneru se ovaj proces odvija u velikom stilu: bura pokreće morsko prostranstvo, obalu zapljuskuju valovi, zrakom lete najfinije čestice morske soli, oligoelemenata i minerala: natrij, magnezij, jod, kalcij, kalij, silicij, mangan i kobalt putuju zrakom i prodiru u organizam do najdubljih predjela plućnih alveola. A u središtu cijelog tog procesa nalazite se vi, cijelim tijelom. I dišete. Duboko. Liječite se i uživate. Bura kao i svi vjetrovi ima zadatak osigurati osnovu života − negativne ione. Zar nije osnova života kisik? Da, ali kisik u krv kroz membrane pluća može doći samo uz pomoć negativnih iona. Trenje zraka i vode potiče premještanje elektrona koji slobodno lete, stvarajući negativne ione. Znanstveno je dokazano da pozitivni ioni imaju ljekovita svojstva: poboljšavaju zdravlje kod astme, bronhitisa, alergija, hipertonije; rane i opekline brže zarastaju, ublažava ili čak otklanja glavobolju, migrenu, potiču dobro raspoloženje. Recept je prvi put napisao grčki liječnik Galen: udišite zrak uz stijene o koje se razbijaju morski valovi (II. st .pr. Kr.). Ovo je lijek bez barkoda. Ovo je lijek bez nuspojava. Ovo je lijek koji nema cijene, a svima je dostupan. Na vama je da na Kvarneru izaberete u koje klimatsko i morsko lječilište s dokazanim zdravstvenim učinkom (klimatoterapija i talasoterapija) želite doći. Certificirane zdravstvene ustanove najmodernijim uređajima, znanjem i stoljetnom tradicijom provode raznovrsne tretmane. 

varner has always been a place to go to − for health. Back in the 19th century, well-known destinations in the region of Kvarner were declared to be official state spas of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, which is why conventional medical practices of the day directed doctors to refer the then nobility to wellness retreats and stays in Kvarner as therapy for countless conditions of both body and mind. Today, these benefits of the region’s climate coupled with a Mediterranean diet and health-promoting movement have a name. They’re called the Kvarner Effect, which you’ll certainly become familiar with during your stay in Kvarner. Following the idea set forth by playwright Euripides that the sea can wash away all evils, Ancient Greek and Roman physicians believed that sea baths were medicinal, and that sea air and the sun influenced people’s health. However, health tourism in Kvarner started flourishing only in the second half of the 19th century, when the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy declared certain spots of Kvarner to be wellness centres, when baths, hotels, transport and other infrastructure were built, and when the entire region was turned into one attractive spa destination. Once an expert medical team used science to establish the benefits of climatotherapy and thalassotherapy in Opatija, an imperial decree was issued in 1889 declaring Opatija to be the first climatic health resort on the Adriatic coast. Soon after, in 1892 the island of Lošinj was also declared a health resort, and then in 1906 the Crikvenica Riviera as well. Thanks to its extremely favourable climatic conditions, accessibility by different means of transport, and the beauty of its nature, Kvarner started developing health tourism very early on. In fact,

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 85

R. Franolić Gropuzzo © V.

Health and Vitality EXPERIENCE RENEWED ENERGY AND THE BENEFITS OF THE KVARNER EFFECT IN CROATIA’S KVARNER REGION

Where, if not here? Clean Adriatic air, sea infused with high density of salt, minerals and health-inducing essence from native plants and herbs are just some of the reasons that gave rise to a number of places to be proclaimed as climatic health resorts by Austro-Hungarian monarchy, in the late 19th century.

kvarner region tourist board hr-51410 opatija, n. tesle 2 t +385 (0)51 623 333, 272 988 kvarner@kvarner.hr www.kvarner.hr

86 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023

A therapeutic climate and programs with sound medical foundations create an outstanding setting for medical wellness. Best of all: treatments focused on health and prevention can easily be combined with a dream vacation.

the very beginnings of health tourism in Kvarner are the beginnings of tourism in general. The climatic spas in Opatija, Crikvenica, Veli and Mali Lošinj, on the island of Rab, and in the towns of Skrad and Delnice in the region of Gorski Kotor were built at the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century. Whether you’re looking to treat different conditions or, better still, prevent them, the health destinations of Kvarner boast a brilliant climate, and abound with highly professional medical services and various recreational programmes. The local health facilities and wellness centres combine the best of professional healthcare services and the science of beauty. This means that you can choose from many programmes that benefit both body and mind. Just by staying on the islands, on the coast and in the mountains, by taking walks along the sea or in the forest, you’re doing a whole lot for your health. Kvarner is nothing short of outdoor aromatherapy! The Kvarner Effect or simply put − Kvarner’s aromatherapy in the great outdoors. Given its Mediterranean climate, which boasts over 200 days of sunshine a year, and medicinal plants, it seems that Kvarner was gifted all that’s necessary for an environment to promote health. The Kvarner Effect or simply put − Kvarner’s aromatherapy in the great outdoors Bora, a dry and cold north-easterly wind that brings with it colder and fresher weather conditions, is the engine that drives the therapeutic process called the Kvarner Effect. As the bora crashes against the surface of the sea, sea particles get releases into the air. It’s similar to spraying purified seawater from a spray bottle. But in Kvarner, this process takes place on a much grander scale, and with style. The bora sets in motion vast expanses of the sea, waves crash against the shore, and the finest particles of sea salt, trace elements and minerals float in the air. Sodium, magnesium, iodine, calcium, potassium, silicon, manganese, and cobalt travel through the air, and penetrate the deepest regions of your pulmonary alveoli. At the very centre of this entire process is you and your body as a whole. And you breathe. Deeply. Enjoying this fantastic healing therapy. Like the task of all the winds, that of the bora too is to provide the fountainhead of life − negative ions. But, isn’t oxygen the source of life? Yes, but oxygen can enter the bloodstream through the respiratory membranes only with the help of negative ions. Friction between air and water stimulates free electrons to move, which creates negative ions. Science has proven that positive ions have healing properties: they improve the health of those suffering from asthma, bronchitis, allergies, and hypertension; aid the healing of wounds and burns; relieve or even eliminate headaches and migraines; and boost your mood. This recipe was first written down by the Greek physician Galen in the 2nd century BC − breath in the sea waves crashing on the cliffs. This medicine has no barcode. This medicine has no side effect. This medicine has no price. This medicine is freely accessible by everyone. To reap the proven benefits of climatotherapy and thalassotherapy, all you have to do is choose which of Kvarner’s climatic health resorts and sea spas you wish to avail yourself of. For effective treatments, visit our certified healthcare institutions equipped with state-of-the-art medical devices and expertise, and boasting a century-old tradition. 

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 87

Specijalna bolnica za ortopediju i opću kirurgiju Dr. Nemec

opću kirurgiju Dr. Nemec kako bi se osigurao

Arithera Specially Hospital. Membership of the

optimalan ishod i lakše provođenje operacije i

group guarantees that member hospitals meet

postoperativne njege. Od 2022. godine Speci-

high standard in the delivery of healthcare

jalna bolnica dr. Nemec dio je Arsano Medical

services, and that their approach to diagnosis

Grupe, čije su članice i Poliklinika Aviva,

and treatment is multidisciplinary. 

poliklinika Dijagnostika 2000, Poliklinika Urocentar i Specijalna bolnica Arithera. Članstvo

Dr Nemec Specialist Orthopaedic and General Surgery Hospital

u grupaciji jamstvo je visokog standarda naših zdravstvenih usluga i multidisciplinarnog pristupa u dijagnostici i liječenju.  Founded in 2004, the Dr Nemec Specialist Hospital was the first private specialty orthopaedic hospital. The institution is dedicated

Specijalna bolnica Dr. Nemec osnovana je 2004. godine kao prva privatna specijalna bolnica za ortopediju. Ustanova je posvećena liječenju ozljeda i bolesti lokomotornog sustava. Specijalna bolnica namjenski je građena ortopedska ustanova. Operativni zahvati izvode se u tri moderne operacijske sale s najvišim stupnjem sterilnosti (laminar flow air). Uz dosad raspoloživ RTG uređaj i uređaj za ultrazvučnu dijagnostiku bolnica je 17 godina djelovanja obilježila otvaranjem novog odjela radiologije, fizikalne medicine i rehabilitacije, čija je okosnica najsuvremeniji MR uređaj snage 3 Tesla (3T). Pregledi se provode u četiri ambulante. U liječenju pacijenata koriste se najnoviji operacijski pristupi koji osiguravaju brz i učinkovit oporavak. Liječnici i djelatnici stalno se usavršavaju kroz suradnju bolnice dr. Nemec s renomiranim svjetskim ustanovama. Glavni cilj bolnice jest odabrati individualni terapijski pristup liječenja svakom pacijentu. Operacija je za većinu pacijenata iznimno stresan događaj. Umirujuće okružje, razgovor prije operacije i upoznavanje pacijenta sa svim fazama i aspektima procedure koja će se provesti temelj su pristupa liječenju Specijalne bolnice za ortopediju i

88 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023

+385 51 277350 +385 51 277406 info@bolnica-nemec.hr

Lječilište Veli Lošinj

to the treatment of injuries and diseases of the musculoskeletal system. The specialist hospital is a purpose-built institution for

Veli Lošinj Health Centre

orthopaedic patients. Surgeries are performed in three modern operating theatres featuring a laminar air flow system which ensures the highest degree of sterility. Besides an X-ray machine and an ultrasound machine, the hospital procured − to mark 17 years of operation − a state-of-the-art 3 Tesla (3T) MR scanner, which is now the backbone of its new departments of radiology, and physical medicine and rehabilitation. Examinations are carried out in four clinics. In the treatment of patients, the latest methods of surgery are used, which ensures that

Lječilište Veli Lošinj smješteno na otoku

patient recovery is fast and efficient. The Dr

Lošinju u Hrvatskoj, ima bogatu povijest

Nemec Specialist Orthopaedic and General

koja seže unatrag 130 godina. Povijest ovog

Surgery Hospital collaborates with renowned

lječilišta započinje u 19. stoljeću, kada su

international institutions, where the hospi-

prirodne ljepote i blaga klima otoka Lošinja

tal’s doctors and employees take part in skill

privukle europsku aristokraciju koja je tražila

development programmes. The main goal

olakšanje od različitih dišnih zdravstvenih

of the hospital is to choose a personalised

problema.

therapeutic approach to each patient. Surgery

S vremenom je Lječilište Veli Lošinj proširilo

is an extremely stressful event for most pa-

svoju ponudu, uključujući moderne medi-

tients. The Dr Nemec Specialist Orthopaedic

cinske tretmane iz djelatnosti dermatologije,

and General Surgery Hospital approaches

fizikalne medicine i rehabilitacije i pulmologije

patient treatment by providing a stress-free

uz programe medicinskog wellnessa i medi-

environment, talking to patients before their

cinske kozmetologije.

surgery, and familiarising each patient with all

Lječilište Veli Lošinj koristi jedinstvene

the stages and aspects of the procedure that

klimatoterapijske i talasoterapijske blagodati

will be carried out, so as to ensure that the

mikrolokacije kao dio cjelovitog pristupa lije-

outcome of the procedure is optimal, and that

čenju kroničnih bolesti gornjih i donjih dišnih

both the surgery and post-operative care are

putova, koji uključuje edukaciju, redovitu

carried out and unfold without any difficulties.

terapiju lijekovima i promjenu životnog stila.

In 2022, Dr Nemec Specialist Orthopaedic

Danas Lječilište Veli Lošinj nastavlja privlačiti

and General Surgery Hospital joined the Ar-

posjetitelje svojim blagodatima, pružajući im

sano Medical Group, whose members include

priliku za opuštanje u prekrasnom okruženju i

the Aviva Polyclinic, the Dijagnostika 2000

koristeći tradiciju i stručnost kako bi im pruži-

Polyclinic, the Urocentar Polyclinic, and the

lo sveobuhvatnu brigu o zdravlju. 

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 89

Health Center Veli Lošinj located on the island

jućim odmorom i prirodnim ljepotama. U

rooms and a specially arranged space for

of Lošinj in Croatia, has a rich history that goes

Thalassotherapiji Opatija okupljen je tim od

meetings with high-tech equipment. In the

back 130 years. The history of this health resort

270 djelatnika, uključujući 37 specijaliziranih

Thalasso Wellness Center, you can relax and

begins in the 19th century, when the natural

liječnika iz područja kardiologije, reumatolo-

enjoy various wellness treatments, including

beauty and mild climate of the island of Lošinj

gije, fizikalne medicine, endokrinologije, der-

swimming pools, jacuzzi, spa relaxation and

attracted European aristocracy seeking relief

matologije, neurologije i pulmologije. Njihova

fitness centre.

from various respiratory health problems.

predanost i stručnost jamče najbolju brigu

Thalassotherapia Opatija offers a wide range

Over time, Health Center Veli Lošinj has

i podršku pacijentima. Posebno se ističe

of services in the Clinic for treatment, rehabili-

expanded its offer, including modern medical

područje estetske dermatologije i estetske

tation and prevention of diseases of the heart

treatments from dermatology, physical medici-

kirurgije s personaliziranim tretmanima i po-

and blood vessels, Physical Medicine, Derma-

ne and rehabilitation and pulmonology, along

stupcima te sportska medicina usmjerena na

tology, Neurology, Endocrinology, Pulmono-

with medical wellness and medical cosmeto-

praćenje sportaša, povećanje sportskih per-

logy, Radiology, Psychology, Sports medicine,

logy programs.

formansi, prevenciju ozljeda i brz oporavak

Diet therapy/nutrition, Thalasso Wellness

Health Center Veli Lošinj uses the unique

nakon napornih treninga. Thalassotherapia

Center Opatija and Aesthetic surgery.

climatotherapy and thalassotherapy benefits of

Opatija povezana je s Villom Dubrava, koja

Together, these activities make Thalassothe-

the microlocation as part of a comprehensive

nudi smještaj u 37 udobnih soba i poseb-

rapia Opatija a leading centre for health and

approach to the treatment of chronic diseases

no uređen prostor za sastanke s visoko

medical wellness in the region, promising

of the upper and lower respiratory tract, which

tehnološkom opremom. U Thalasso Wellness

complete care for your health. 

includes education, regular drug therapy and

Centru možete se opustiti i uživati u raznim

lifestyle changes.

wellness tretmanima, uključujući bazene,

Today, the Health Center Veli Lošinj continues

jacuzzi, spa opuštanje i fitness centar.

to attract visitors with its benefits, offering them

Thalassotherapia Opatija pruža širok spektar

the opportunity to relax in beautiful surroundin-

djelatnosti. To su: Klinika za liječenje, rehabi-

gs and using tradition and expertise to provide

litaciju i prevenciju bolesti srca i krvnih žila,

them with comprehensive health care. 

Fizikalna medicina, Dermatologija, Neurolo-

+385 51 236 111 +385 99 236 1111 info@ljeciliste-veli-losinj.hr

gija, Endokrinologija, Pulmologija, Laboratorij, Radiologija, Psihologija, Sportska me-

Thalassotherapia Crikvenica

dicina, Dijetoterapija/nutricionizam, Thalasso Wellness Centar Opatija, Estetska kirurgija. Ove djelatnosti zajedno čine Thalassotherapiju Opatija vodećim centrom za zdravlje

Thalassotherapia Opatija

+385 51 202 616 prodaja@tto.hr

Crikvenica Thalassotherapy

i medicinski wellness u regiji, obećavajući potpunu brigu o vašem zdravlju. 

Thalassotherapia Crikvenica suvremena je medicinska ustanova, koja povezuje princi-

Thalassotherapia Opatija provides a combi-

pe talasoterapijskog liječenja s dostignući-

Opatija Thalassotherapy

nation of expertise, tradition and a Medi-

ma moderne medicine.

terranean environment. It is an exceptional

Klimatoterapija i talasoterapija znače

destination for those seeking top medical care

primjenu prirodnih ljekovitih činitelja svoj-

in various fields, combined with a relaxing

stvenih moru i primorju u svrhu unapređe-

Thalassotherapia Opatija, spoj stručnosti,

holiday and sites of natural beauty. Thalasso-

nja zdravstvenog stanja i kvalitete života.

tradicije i mediteranskog okruženja, iznimno

therapia Opatija has a team of 270 em-

Prirodni ljekoviti činitelji crikveničke rivijere

je odredište za sve one koji traže vrhunsku

ployees, including 37 specialized doctors in

poput klime, čistoće zraka, morske vode,

medicinsku skrb u kombinaciji s opušta-

cardiology, rheumatology, physical medicine,

sunčevog zračenja i biljnog pokrova čuvaju

endocrinology, dermatology, neurology and

zdravlje, pomažu u prevenciji, oporavku i

pulmonology. Their dedication and expertise

rehabilitaciji raznih bolesti i poboljšavaju

guarantee the best care and support. It is also

kvalitetu života. Krijepe i jačaju tijelo, duh i

noteworthy to mention the field of aesthetic

um. Primjena talasoterapijskih postupaka u

dermatology, aesthetic surgery with persona-

medicinske svrhe znači prije svega upotrebu

lized treatments and procedures, and sports

morske vode u terapijskim procedurama. U

medicine to monitor athletes, increase sports

rehabilitaciji bolesti dišnih organa primjenju-

performance, injury prevention and quick

ju se inhalacije morske vode i eteričnih ulja,

recovery after strenuous training. Thalassot-

dok se u fizioterapiji primjenjuju hidroma-

herapia Opatija is connected to Villa Dubrava,

saže te fizioterapijske vježbe u bazenu s

offering accommodation in 37 comfortable

morskom vodom. Unapređenju zdravlja

90 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 91

used, while in physiotherapy the hydromassa-

ka. Sa preko 170 zaposlenih, među kojima je

ge therapeutic technique and physiotherapy

više od 80 liječnika specijalista, Specijalna

exercises done in a seawater pool are used.

bolnica Medico svake godine pruži stručnu

Walking and other forms of physical activity

zdravstvenu skrb za više od 60.000 pacijena-

by the sea contribute to health improvement.

ta te tako postaje ključna adresa za sve one

Thalassotherapy treatments are also included

koji trebaju kvalitetnu medicinsku uslugu, bez

in the spa programmes on offer.

čekanja. Kao dokaz posvećenosti kvaliteti i

Physical medicine and physiotherapy offer a

sigurnosti pacijenata, Medico je prva privatna

complete solution for disorders and diseases

zdravstvena ustanova u Hrvatskoj koja je

of the musculoskeletal system. The rehabili-

dobila prestižni certifikat izvrsnosti Ame-

tation programmes are conducted under the

ričke akreditacijske međunarodne komisije

careful supervision of experienced doctors

(AACI). Također, posjeduje certifikate najviših

pridonose šetnje te ostali oblici fizičke ak-

who are specialists in physical medicine and

standarda u bolničkim i specijaliziranim

tivnosti uz more. Talasoterapijske procedure

rehabilitation. The rehabilitation programmes

polikliničkim uslugama. Ovi certifikati jamče

sadržane su i u tretmanima i programima

designed for patients suffering from respira-

pacijentima sigurnost, zaštitu prava, visoku

spa ponude.

tory diseases or pulmonary rehabilitation are

kvalitetu usluga, učinkovito upravljanje rizici-

Fizikalna medicina i fizioterapija nudi cjelo-

designed to effectively treat and eliminate the

ma i sigurnost podataka. Specijalna bolnica

vito rješenje za tegobe i bolesti mišićno-ko-

causes and symptoms of chronic, allergic,

Medico posluje u Rijeci i Puli te nudi zdrav-

štanog sustava. Programi rehabilitacije pod

acute, and subacute diseases of the respira-

stvenu skrb kroz mnogobrojne specijalnosti

stalnim su nadzorom iskusnih liječnika spe-

tory system. The rehabilitation programmes

i subspecijalnosti, a to su: medicinsko-bi-

cijalista fizikalne medicine i rehabilitacije.

are mostly carried out in the largest and best

okemijski laboratorij, citologija, radiologija,

Rehabilitacija dišnih organa ili respiratorna

equipped inhalatorium on the Adriatic. Sets

interna medicina, gastroenterologija, nutrici-

rehabilitacija namijenjena je učinkovitom

of therapeutic treatments are designed spe-

onizam, kardiologija, nefrologija, pulmologija,

uklanjanju uzroka i simptoma kroničnih,

cifically for each individual client according

hematologija, endokrinologija, neurologija,

alergijskih, akutnih i subakutnih bolesti diš-

to their specific health condition. Thalasso

dermatologija i venerologija, reumatologija,

nog sustava. Rehabilitacija se većim dijelom

Medical Spa offers a wide range of services

psihijatrija, oftalmologija, otorinolaringologija,

provodi u najvećem i najbolje opremljenom

for relaxation, revitalisation, and disease

urologija, ginekologija i opstetricija, opća

inhalatoriju na Jadranu. Splet terapijskih

prevention. 

kirurgija, neurokirurgija, ortopedija, vaskular-

procedura dizajnira se posebno za svakog pojedinog klijenta sukladno njegovu spe-

na kirurgija, plastična kirurgija, anesteziolo+385 51 407666 info@thalasso-ck.hr

gija, reanimatologija i intenzivno liječenje te

cifičnom zdravstvenom stanju. Thalasso

individualni zdravstveni programi. Sinergijom

Medical Spa nudi široku paletu usluga za

inovacija i predanosti Medico je sinonim za

opuštanje, revitalizaciju i prevenciju. 

izvrsnost u zdravstvenoj skrbi i neprestano

Crikvenica Thalassotherapy is a state-of-theart healthcare institution whose approach

Specijalna bolnica Medico

postavlja nove standarde u pružanju privatnih zdravstvenih usluga u Republici Hrvatskoj. 

combines the principles of thalassothera-

The Medico Specialty Hospital was one of

py with the insights of modern medicine.

the first private healthcare institutions to be

Climatotherapy and thalassotherapy are the application of natural medicinal agents specific to the sea and the coast for the purpose

Medico Specialty Hospital

of improving the state of one’s health and

Specijalna bolnica Medico jedna je od prvih

quality of life. The natural healing agents of

privatnih zdravstvenih ustanova osnovanih u

the Crikvenica Riviera, such as its climate,

Republici Hrvatskoj. Od samog početka do

clean air, seawater, the sun, and greenery,

danas Medico je prepoznatljiv po najsuvre-

maintain one’s health, help in disease

menijoj dijagnostičkoj i terapijskoj tehnologiji

prevention, recovery, and rehabilitation, and

i vrhunskim liječnicima koji su svoja znanja

improve the quality of life. They invigorate

stjecali u najboljim sveučilištima i klinikama u

and revitalise both body and mind. When

Hrvatskoj i svijetu. Misija specijalne bolni-

applied for medical purposes, thalassothe-

ce jest pružiti vrhunsku zdravstvenu skrb i

rapy treatments imply the use of seawater

osigurati najbolje moguće iskustvo svojim

in therapeutic procedures. In rehabilitating

pacijentima, stoga u Medicu već više od 30

patients suffering from respiratory diseases,

godina svakodnevno podižu kvalitetu svojih

seawater and essential oil inhalations are

usluga i ulažu u stručnost svojih zaposleni-

92 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023

established in the Republic of Croatia. Since it was established, Medico has been widely recognised for its state-of-the-art diagnostic and therapeutic technology, and top doctors

who were trained at the best universities and clinics in Croatia and the world. Medico’s mission is to provide top-quality healthcare, and

Digitalni ured

to ensure the best possible experience for its patients, which is why the specialty hospital has been raising the quality of its services and investing in the expertise of its employees for more than 30 years. The Medico Specialty Hospital’s 170+ employees, of whom more than 80 are specialists, provide professional healthcare to more than 60,000 patients every year, which is how it’s become the right place to go to for quality medical services − without waiting lists. Medico is the first private healthcare institution in Croatia to have received the prestigious certificate of excellence from the American Accreditation Commission International (AACI), which testifies to the hospital’s dedication to quality and patient safety. Medico has also been issued certificates that guarantee that the hospital meets the highest standards in the provision of hospital and specialised polyclinical services. These certificates guarantee the safety

JEDNOSTAVNI PROCESI

of patients, the protection of patient rights, the delivery of high-quality services, effective risk management, and data protection. The Medico Specialty Hospital operates in Rijeka and Pula, and offers healthcare services in the following specialties and subspecialties: medical biochemistry laboratory, cytology, radiology, internal medicine, gastroen-

UŠTEDA RESURSA

terology, nutrition, cardiology, nephrology, pulmonology, haematology, endocrinology, neurology, dermatology and venereology, rheumatology, psychiatry, ophthalmology, otorhinolaryngology, urology, gynaecology and obstetrics, general surgery, neurosurgery, orthopaedics, vascular surgery, plastic surgery, anaesthesiology, resuscitation and intensive care, and personalised healthcare. Through the synergy of innovation

BRZO RAZMJENJIVANJE DOKUMENATA

and dedication, Medico has become synonymous with excellence in healthcare, and has been at the vanguard of setting new standards in the provision of private healthcare services in the Republic of Croatia.  +385 72 100700 medico@medico.hr

SAZNAJTE KAKO DO NOVE ERE UREDSKOG POSLOVANJA

www.mstart.hr prodaja@mstart.hr +385 1 2372 100

ZDRAVLJE HEALTH

Specijalna bolnica Radiochirurgia Zagreb − najsuvremeniji onkološki centar u Hrvatskoj i regiji Special Hospital Radiochirurgia Zagreb − The Most Advanced Oncology Center in Croatia and the Region Od svojeg osnutka 2016. godine, Radiochirurgia Zagreb razvila se u

rurgije koja se oslanja na praćenje radiofarmaka koji se ciljano nakuplja

vodeću regionalnu bolnicu za rano dijagnosticiranje i liječenje raka,

u tumorskom tkivu, a planiranje se provodi na posebnom UHDPET

ističući se nekim od najnaprednijih tehnologija u borbi protiv ove opake

CT uređaju − Biograph Vision™, tzv. inteligentnom molekularnom

bolesti. Također, Radiochirurgia Zagreb postala je prvi referentni centar

simulatoru.

tvrtke Siemens za razvoj i uporabu umjetne inteligencije u svim fazama. Od ove godine Radiochirurgia Zagreb u rad je uvela najsuvremeniji

Radiokirurški zahvati u općoj endotrahealnoj i.v. anesteziji

dijagnostički sustav Siemens Biograph Vision koji sadrži ultra HD PET

Ovom tehnikom od jeseni 2022. godine radiokirurškim zahvatima u to-

MSCT Definition EDGE/DE MSCT, fuzijski ultra HD PET 3T MR VIDA

talnoj endotrahealnoj i.v. anesteziji uspijevamo aplicirati biološki efek-

te inteligentni molekularni simulator za naprednu radiokirurgiju i radi-

tivne doze od oko 120 Gy u jednoj seansi (frakciji), čime se osigurava

oterapiju koji omogućuju ultra preciznu dijagnostiku karcinoma u svim

sigurnost ablacije tumora (lokalna kontrola bolesti) veća od 98%.

fazama te iznimno kvalitetno praćenje učinka liječenja.

Tretmani zračenja sa submilimetarskom preciznošću u Radiochirurgiji

Biološki vođena radiokirurgija ili BgSABR (engl. Biologically-guided

Zagreb obavljaju se korištenjem dvaju vrhunskih radiokirurških uređaja

Stereotactic Ablative Radiation therapy) najnovija je metoda radioki-

− Varian Edge i CyberKnife S7 koji koristi i umjetnu inteligenciju kako bi što preciznije ozračio tumor. Emitirajući visokoenergetske snopove fotona, ovi linearni akceleratori bez krvi i rezova precizno ciljaju i uništavaju rak s minimalnim utjecajem na okolno zdravo tkivo. Vrhunsku tehnološku razinu Radiochirurgije Zagreb dodatno će unaprijediti i najnoviji iznimno napredan uređaj za zračenje Varian Ethos, koji uz pomoć umjetne inteligencije kombinira svu dostupnu dijagnostiku, planira liječenje i izvodi ga uz maksimalnu prilagodbu svakom pacijentu. Riječ je o primjeni adaptivne inteligencije koja liječenje čini još preciznijim, u

Tim Radiochirurgije Zagreb ponosan je na rezultate liječenja različitih tipova raka, ali posebno se ističe liječenje lokalno uznapredovalog raka gušterače. Stopa preživljavanja nakon liječenja za neke je pacijente bila više od četiri godine, što je prema dostupnim podacima trenutno najduža stopa preživljavanja za ovaj oblik raka na svijetu. U posljednjih sedam godina u Radiochirurgiji Zagreb liječeno je preko 10.000 pacijenata te je analizirano više od 90.000 slučajeva.  Since its establishment in 2016, Radiochirurgia Zagreb has developed into a leading regional hospital for the early diagnosis and treatment of cancer, standing out with some of the most advanced technologies in the fight against this deadly disease. Also, Radiochirurgia Zagreb has become the first reference center of Siemens for the development and use of artificial intelligence in all phases. This year, Radiochirurgia Zagreb has introduced the most modern diagnostic system, the Siemens Biograph Vision, which includes ultra

94 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023

PROMO

i ugodnijim za pacijenta.

FOTOGRAFIJE/PHOTOS_Arhiva Radiochirurgia/Radiochirurgia archives

potpunosti prilagođenim svakom pojedinačnom slučaju te učinkovitijim

HD PET MSCT Definition EDGE/DE MSCT, Fusion ultra HD PET 3T MR VIDA, and an intelligent molecular simulator for advanced radiosurgery and radiotherapy, enabling ultra-precise cancer diagnostics at all stages and exceptionally high-quality monitoring of treatment effects. Biologically-guided Stereotactic Ablative Radiation Therapy (BgSABR) is the latest method in radiosurgery that relies on tracking radiopharmaceuticals that specifically accumulate in tumor tissue, with planning conducted on a special UHDPET CT device - Biograph Vision™, known as the intelligent molecular simulator.

Š.Lugarov

Radiosurgical procedures under general endotracheal intravenous anesthesia With this technique, since the fall of 2022, we have been able to apply Biologically Effective Doses of about 120 Gy in a single session (fraction) it with maximum adaptation to each patient, using artificial intelligence.

98%.

This is the application of adaptive intelligence, making treatment even

Radiation treatments with submillimeter precision at Radiochirurgia

more precise, completely customized to each individual case, and more

Zagreb are performed using two state-of-the-art radiosurgical devices

effective and comfortable for the patient.

- Varian Edge and CyberKnife S7, which also employs artificial intelli-

The Radiochirurgia Zagreb team is proud of its treatment results for various

gence to precisely target the tumor. Emitting high-energy photon beams,

types of cancer, but particularly stands out in the treatment of locally

these linear accelerators precisely target and destroy cancer without

advanced pancreatic cancer. The survival rate after treatment for some

blood and cuts, with minimal impact on the surrounding healthy tissue.

patients has been more than four years, which, according to available data,

The technological excellence of Radiochirurgia Zagreb will be further

is currently the longest survival rate for this form of cancer in the world.

enhanced by the newest highly advanced Varian Ethos radiation device,

In the last seven years, Radiochirurgia Zagreb has treated over 10,000

which combines all available diagnostics, plans treatment, and performs

patients and analyzed more than 90,000 cases. 

Š.Lugarov

during, ensuring tumor ablation safety (local disease control) of more than

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 95

UŽIVAJ U EUROPI ENJOY EUROPE

HOTSPOTS Pariz Kulturni centar Cent Quatre u 19. arondismanu mjesto je gdje ćete uživati u vrhunskoj suvremenoj umjetnosti i hip-hop glazbi uživo, a ondje ćete naći i povoljne cijene u dobrotvornoj trgovini društva da radom pronađu dostojanstven način reintegracije. A ako vas zanima fotografija, centar Maison Européenne de la Photographie, muzej Jeu de Paume i Fundacija Henrija CartierBressona su crème de la crème u svijetu fotografije. PARIS

In the 19th arrondissement, the Cent Quatre cultural centre is where to head for cutting-edge contemporary art and live hip-hop, plus bargains from the on-site Emmaüs Défi store, a solidarity bank that supports marginalised people who, through work, find a dignified

∂ Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson

Emmaüs Défi, čija je misija podržati osobe na marginama

Izložba Bike Trip Ruth Orkin, SAD, 1939. Ruth Orkin’s exhibition Bike Trip, USA, 1939

position to reintegrate into society. And if you’re into photography,

Glavni grad Hrvatske Zagreb i francuska prijestolnica Pariz

the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, the Jeu de Paume,

povezani su svakodnevnim letovima Croatia Airlinesa.

and the Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson are the crème de la crème

Croatia Airlines operates daily flights between the capital of

of the world of photography.

Croatia, Zagreb, and the capital of France, Paris.

London Skriven u središtu Londona, St Dunstan’s in the East čaroban je i miran park, iako je ruševina crkve koja je izgorjela 1666. godine tijekom Velikog požara u Londonu. Ime je dobio po redovniku iz 10. stoljeća. Danas je to prekrasan javni park i mirno mjesto za opuštanje te osamu daleko od vreve središta Londona dok se divite pogledu na njegove lukove obrasle puzavicama i zelenilom. Stanice podzemne željeznice najbliže parku St Dunstan’s in the East jesu Monument ili Tower Hill. LONDON

Tucked away in central London, St Dunstan’s in the East is a magical, peaceful park, although it’s actually a ruined church that was burned down in 1666 during the Great Fire of London. The name St Dunstan comes from a 10th-century monk. Today a beautiful public park, it is a quiet spot to relax and feel a sense of peaceful seclusion away from the hustle and bustle of central London while you admire the views of its vine-covered archways and greenery. The Tube stations closest to St Dunstan’s in the East are Monument or Tower Hill.

A. Bataille _ Unsplash

Zrakoplovi Croatia Airlinesa lete iz Zagreba u London i obratno ponedjeljkom, srijedom i petkom, a od 13. siječnja i subotom. Subotom su našim letovima povezani Split i London do 6. siječnja. Croatia Airlines flies from Zagreb to London and vice versa on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, and from 13th January on Saturdays as well. On Saturdays, Croatia Airlines flies between Split and London as well until 6th January.

Frankfurt Museumsufer jedinstveno je spektakularan skup od 39 muzeja i izložbenih prostora na nasipu rijeke Majne koji nude širok izbor neobičnog i spektakularnog, glasnog i tihog, a koji su idejno osmislile gradske vlasti 1980-ih. Prikladno smješteni jedan kraj drugog, a na pješačkoj udaljenosti od središta grada, ovdje ćete pronaći sve čime ćete zadovoljiti glad za kulturom: suvremenu umjetnost i stare majstore, kulture svijeta i svijet novca, Goethea i njegove književne nasljedniN. Boye _ Unsplash

ke, karikature i skulpture, dizajn i lokalnu povijest, židovsku kulturu i biblijsko iskustvo... FRANKFURT

Envisioned by the city authorities in the 1980s, Museumsufer or the Museums Embankment along the Main is a uniquely

Zagreb i Frankfurt povezani su letovima Croatia Airlinesa tri

spectacular assemblage of 39 museums and exhibition venues

puta na dan, Split i Frankfurt jedanput na dan, a Dubrovnik

offering a wide variety of the quaint and spectacular, of the

i Frankfurt povezani su našim letovima utorkom, petkom i

loud and quiet. Conveniently located in close proximity to one

nedjeljom.

another, and within walking-distance of the city centre, it is

Croatia Airlines connects Zagreb and Frankfurt three times a

here that you’ll find whatever you’re looking for to satiate your

day, Split and Frankfurt once a day, and Dubrovnik and Frank-

appetite for culture: contemporary art or the Old Masters, cul-

furt on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Sundays.

tures of the world or the world of money, Goethe or his literary heirs, caricatures or sculptures, design or local history, Jewish culture or a Bible experience…

Zürich U srpnju 1916. godine njemački antiumjetnik, kako je više volio da ga se naziva, i pjesnik Hugo Ball stao je na malu scenu Cabareta Voltaire i pročitao prvi Manifest predstavivši svijetu novi koncept je dadizam. Ovdje su dadaisti svirali klavir, plesali i izvodili nove oblike poezije, izlagali umjetnost, raspravljali, pjevali i osuđivali užase Prvog svjetskog rata. Tijekom godina Cabaret Voltaire je propadao, no zgrada je spašena od rušenja. Godine 2004. ponovno je otvoren kao kafić, kulturno-obrazovni centar i knjižara. ZURICH

Elisabeth Real, ∂ Zürich Tourism

promišljanja, umjetnosti i kulture. Ovdje, u Spiegelgasseu, rođen

In July 1916 German anti-artist, as he preferred to be referred to, and poet Hugo Ball stood in the tiny performance space of Cabaret Voltaire, and read the first Manifesto introducing the world to a new

Našim letovima povezujemo Zagreb i Zürich dva

concept in thought, art, and culture. It was here in Spiegelgasse

puta na dan, a Split i Zurich te Pulu i Zurich srijedom

that the Dada art movement was born, it was here that the Dadaists

i subotom.

played piano, danced, and performed new forms of poetry, exhibited

Croatia Airlines operates flights between Zagreb and

art, argued, sang, and decried the horrors of WWI. Over the years Cabaret Voltaire deteriorated, but the building was saved from

Zurich twice a day, and between Split and Zurich, and Pula and Zurich on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

demolition. In 2004 it reopened as a café, cultural and education centre, and bookshop. CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 97

NAŠE ODREDIŠTE OUR DESTINATION

MÜNCHEN Razigranost božićnih sajmova PIŠE/BY __ Ana Janković

Colourful Christmas markets

D. Sessle _ Unsplash

Božićni sajam na Marienplatzu obgrljen Novom gradskom vijećnicom, jednom od najdojmljivijih neogotičkih građevina Münchena The Marienplatz Christmas market embraced by the New Town Hall, one of Munich’s most impressive Neo-Gothic buildings

godite si čašom kuhanog vina ili medovine te bijelom kobasicom ili weisswurstom na jednom od mnogih münchenskih božićnih sajmova, čija se tradicija rodila u srednjem vijeku upravo na njemačkom govornom području Europe, s kojega se zatim i proširila svijetom. Vodimo vas na neke od najljepših i najneobičnijih… jer München ima savršen božićni sajam − baš za svakoga. Marienplatz Jedan od najstarijih božićnih sajmova u Europi (datira još iz 14. stoljeća) ujedno je i jedan od najljepših. Zamislite 3000 božićnih lampica samo na središnjem aranžmanu − divovskom, 25 metara visokom božićnom drvcu u čijoj pozadini romantično svjetluca Nova gradska vijećnica (Neues Rathaus), jedna od najdojmljivijih neogotičkih građevina u Münchenu. Marienplatz svoju božićnu priču pripovijeda na način na koji se ona nekoć davno pripovijedala, a ta se čarolija rasprostire na 135 božićnih štandova. Glad utažite jednom od tradicionalnih kobasica od mnogih koje su u ponudi: Bratwurst (pečena kobasica), Rauchzipferl (dimljena

98 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023

kobasica), divovska kobasica, seljačka kobasica, organska kobasica, Schweinswürstel (svinjska kobasica), debrecinka. Imate li želju za slatkim, u ponudi su medenjaci, manderl od šljiva, svježe pečeni bademi i kesteni, adventske slastice poput pikantnih paprenjaka Pfeffernüsse i kolača Magenbrot. Želite li oplemeniti svoje jaslice, ovdje ćete pronaći najfinije drvene rezbarije iz Oberammergaua, Južnog Tirola i Erzgebirgea. Nakon što ste završili s kupovinom, bacite pogled na balkon Nove gradske vijećnice, na kojem će u večernjim satima uživo nastupati bavarski bendovi. Kripperlmarkt ili tržnica svetih jaslica Kod crkve svetog Petra nadomak Marienplatza nalazi se najveći njemački Kripperlmarkt, odnosno u prijevodu − tržnica svetih jaslica, čija tradicija seže u daleku 1757. godinu. Na dvanaest štandova Kripperlmarkta pronaći ćete sve što vam je potrebno za savršene jaslice uključujući funkcionalne svjetiljke za štalu te tri kralja i njihove darove u svim veličinama, odnosno neovisno o tome tražite li velike i pompozne orijentalne jaslice ili njihovu alpsku mini verziju.

Zimski festival u Tollwoodu Slogan ovogodišnjeg Zimskog festivala u Tollwoodu na Theresienwieseu citat je Pabla Picassa − Umjetnost iz duše ispire prašinu svakodnevnog života. Postavljen u plavim, zelenim, žutim, crvenim, ljubičastim i jarko osvijetljenim šatorima, tollwoodski nas zimski festival potiče da se prisjetimo egzistencijalnog značaja umjetnosti. Ovdje ćete moći posjetiti varijetetski cirkus Limbo Unhinged koji će vas ostaviti bez daha, božićno drvce koje govori, fascinantno kazalište plamena i vatre, predstave, živu glazbu, svijetleća umjetnička djela te nevjerojatan božićni sajam umjetnina, rukotvorina, certificirane organske hrane (kao što su veganske Spätzle sa sejtanom) i čarobnih napitaka iz cijeloga svijeta. Tollwood je mjesto za vas ako volite ljude i zajedništvo te ako ste u potrazi za jedinstvenim božićnim poklonima poput predmeta izrađenih od recikliranog elektroničkog otpada. Srednjovjekovni božićni sajam na Wittelsbacherplatzu u Maxvorstadtu S obzirom na to da božićni sajmovi potječu iz srednjeg vijeka, jedan od načina na koji možete doživjeti božićno veselje jest da na svojevrstan način otputujete u prošlost. Pridajući veliku pažnju detaljima i vjerno reproducirajući srednjovjekovnu kulturu staroga grada Münchena, srednjovjekovni božićni sajam na Wittelsbacherplatzu uspostavlja stvarne povijesne poveznice s Münchenom općenito, a posebno s Maxvorstadtom, četvrti koja je prožeta bogatom poviješću. Što ćete ondje pronaći? Hranu spravljenu na srednjovjekovni način, tj. pripremljenu na žeravici ili u peći na drva, odjeću i dodatke od filca, viteško oružje i potrepštine te još mnogo, mnogo toga. 

et’s cosy up with a glass of mulled wine or mead and a weisswurst or white sausage in one of Munich’s many Christmas markets, a tradition that originated in and then spread from German-speaking Europe in the Middle Ages. We’ll show you around some of the most beautiful and unusual ones… Because Munich has the perfect Christmas market − for everyone. Marienplatz One of the oldest Christmas markets in Europe (it dates back to the 14th century) is also one of the most beautiful ones as well.

S. Jahani _ Unsplash

S. Böttcher ∂ München Tourismus

Najveći njemački Kripperlmarkt odnosno tržnica svetih jaslica nalazi se u Münchenu Germany’s largest Kripperlmarkt or the market of the holy manger is the one in Munich

Veseli božićni ukrasi koji redovito mame osmjeh Christmas decorations that always put a smile on your face

Picture 3000 Christmas lights on the centrepiece alone − a giant, 25-metre-tall Christmas tree glittering against the romantic backdrop of Neues Rathaus or the New Town Hall, one of Munich’s most impressive Neo-Gothic buildings. Marienplatz’s Christmas story is told the way it was told once upon a time, and its magic spread across 135 merchandise and food stalls. To satisfy your hunger, pick a traditional sausage from the many on offer: Bratwurst (broiled sausage), Rauchzipferl (smoked sausage), giant bratwurst, farmer’s bratwurst, organic bratwurst, Schweinswürstel (pork sausage), Debreziner (seasoned pork sausage). Alternatively, nibble on some gingerbread and plum manderl, freshly roasted almonds and chestnuts, Advent sweets such as spicy Pfeffernüsse biscuits and Magenbrot cake, while looking for the finest of wood carvings from the regions of Oberammergau, South Tyrol, and the Erzgebirge that no Nativity Scene can do without. Once you’re done shopping, do pay attention to the New Town Hall balcony, where Bavarian bands will be performing live in the evenings. Kripperlmarkt At the Church of St. Peter, a stone’s throw from Marienplatz, you’ll find Germany’s largest Kripperlmarkt, which translates as the market of the holy manger, whose tradition dates back to 1757. At the market’s twelve stalls, you’ll find everything you need for a picture-perfect Nativity Scene including functional lanterns for the stable, and the Three Magi and their offerings − in any size. Whether you’re looking for a big and pompous oriental Nativity Scene or an Alpine mini-version and anything in-between, you’ll surely find it here.

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 99

100 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023

Ručna izrada svetih jaslica od drva stoljetna je tradicija u Njemačkoj Germany boasts a centuries-old tradition of carving Nativity sets from wood by hand

l. Barth ∂ München Tourismus

people and community, and if you’re looking for artisanal Christmas presents, such as items made from recycled electronics.

Tollwood Winter Festival This year’s Tollwood Winter Festival on the Theresienwiese has adopted Pablo Picasso’s quote as its slogan − Art washes away from the soul the dust of everyday life. Set up in blue, green, yellow, red, purple, and brightly lit tents, Tollwood urges us to remember the existential significance of art. Featuring the breath-taking Limbo Unhinged variety circus, a talking Christmas tree, a fascinating fire theatre, performances, live music, glowing works of art, and a fabulous Christmas market with arts and crafts, and certified organic foods (such as vegan Spätzle pasta with seitan) and magic potions from all over the world, this is the place to come to if you’re into

Medieval Christmas market at Wittelsbacherplatz in Maxvorstadt Given that Christmas markets originated in the Middle Ages, what better way is there to experience Christmas cheer than to, in a manner of speaking − travel back in time. With great attention to detail and countless faithful reproductions of Munich’s old city culture, the Medieval Christmas market at Wittelsbacherplatz establishes actual historical connections to the city of Munich in general, and to Maxvorstadt in particular, a neighbourhood that itself boasts so much history. So, what will you find there? Medieval style foods prepared over charcoal embers or in wood-fired ovens, garments and accessories made of felt, armament and knights’ supplies, and much, much more. 

Zrakoplovi Croatia Airlinesa lete iz Zagreba u München i obratno dva puta na dan, a iz Splita u München i obratno jedanput na dan. Osijek i München povezani su našim letovima ponedjeljkom i petkom, a Rijeka četvrtkom i nedjeljom. Do 9. siječnja našim letovima povezujemo i Zadar s Münchenom utorkom i subotom. Croatia Airlines flies from Zagreb to Munich and vice versa twice a day, and from Split to Munich and vice versa once a day. Osijek and Munich are connected on Mondays and Fridays, and Rijeka and Munich on Thursdays and Sundays. Until 9th January, Croatia Airlines also flies between Zadar and Munich on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 101

NAŠE ODREDIŠTE OUR DESTINATION

RIM

Neuobičajenim putovima Rima The less trodden roads of Rome

PIŠE/BY __ Ana Janković

Kupola bazilike dei Santi Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso s kupolom bazilike sv. Petra u Vatikanu The dome of the Basilica dei Santi Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso with the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica of the Vatican in the background

V. Šolin

grada stilu drugih europskih gradova. Pomalo drugačija, treća je lokacija arhitektonsko i urbanističko naslijeđe iz doba fašizma. Izgrađen za vrijeme vladavine Mussolinija, Quartiere EUR krase široke ulice, impozantne zgrade i grandiozni javni prostori, čiji je cilj bio predstaviti moć i ambiciju fašističkog režima. Danas je to cvatuća poslovna četvrt i dom nekoliko važnih muzeja (uključujući Muzej rimske civilizacije i Nacionalni muzej pretpovijesti i etnografije), a ondje ćete naći i nezaobilaznu znamenitost − Palaču talijanske civilizacije odnosno Kvadratni kolosej.

e trebate imati poseban razlog za posjet Rimu, koji je privlačan u svako godišnje doba. Ovaj put došapnut ćemo vam neke od bolje čuvanih tajni Vječnoga grada.

Otkvačena arhitektura Rima Potražite tri lokacije, osobito ako ste zaljubljenik u arhitekturu. Prva je Quartiere Coppedè, arhitektonski dragulj od dvadesetak zgrada skriven u samome srcu Rima. Kvart je dizajnirao arhitekt Gino Coppedè početkom prošlog stoljeća, a u njemu ćete naći eklektičan spoj stilova secesije, baroka, renesanse i srednjovjekovlja na jednome mjestu. Druga lokacija je Piccola Londra, odnosno u prijevodu Mali London. Zamislite kuće u stilu Notting Hilla umotane u mediteransku čaroliju Rima. Mali London i njegovih nekoliko ulica dizajnirao je arhitekt Quadrio Pirani također početkom 20. stoljeća s ciljem modernizacije Rima i prilagodbe

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Michelangelova otpisana djela Umjesto Madonni della Pietà u bazilici svetog Petra ili Sikstinskoj kapeli unutar kompleksa Vatikanskih muzeja, odvest ćemo vas do bazilike San Pietro in Vincoli na svega nekoliko minuta hoda od Koloseuma na istoimenom trgu. Ova prekrasna crkva postala je svojevrsno skladište otpisanih skulptura, među kojima se ističe Michelangelova statua Mojsija neusporedive ljepote. Naručio ju je 1505. godine papa Julije II. da bude ukras na njegovoj grobnici, a prikazuje biblijski lik Mojsija s rogovima na glavi kako ga se opisuje u 34. poglavlju Knjige izlaska u Vulgati, latinskom prijevodu Biblije koji se koristio u to vrijeme. Papa umire 1513. godine (i biva pokopan u bazilici svetog Petra), pune dvije godine prije nego što je Michelangelo završio mramorni kip 1515. godine. No još za Papina života dolazi do neslaganja između umjetnika i Pape, uslijed čega Papa odlučuje obustaviti svoje daljnje isplate Michelangelu, koji usprkos svemu dovršava skulpturu koju povjesničari umjetnosti smatraju jednim od njegovih remekdjela. Štoviše, mnogi kritičari vjeruju da je skulptura Mojsija bila jedno od njemu samom najdražih djela jer ga je smatrao iznimno realističnim. Kroničari tvrde da ga je kipar udario nakon što ga je završio i naredio mu da progovori. Kad se nađete licem u lice s Michelangelovim Mojsijem, shvatit ćete što ga je moglo nagnati da to učini. Ulaz je slobodan, no donacije su dobrodošle.

01 Službenog naziva Palača talijanske civilizacije, Kvadratni kolosej izgrađen je za vrijeme vladavine Mussolinija The Palace of Italian Civilisation housed in the Square Colosseum was built during the reign of Mussolini 02 Il Palazzo dei Ricevimenti e dei Congressi također iz vremena vladavine Mussolinija Il Palazzo dei Ricevimenti e dei Congressi also built during the reign of Mussolini

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03 Michelangelov Mojsije u bazilici San Pietro in Vincoli Michelangelo’s Moses in the Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli

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Fr. Barry Braum _ Unsplash

Gradski pejzaži koji ostavljaju bez daha Za pogled na Rim koji će vas ostaviti bez daha, no ne zbog uspona, umjesto uspinjanja na očigledna mjesta − odnosno na kupolu bazilike svetog Petra ili jedno od sedam brežuljaka Rima − popnimo se na mirnu znamenitost opuštene atmosfere u blizini središta grada. Brdo Janikulum odigralo je važnu povijesnu ulogu u obrani grada od francuskih trupa koje je talijanska vojska predvođena Giuseppeom Garibaldijem uspjela odbiti 1849. godine, zbog čega ga i nazivaju osmim brežuljkom Rima. Na njemu se nalazi komemorativni park s bezbroj spomenika u zagrljaju stoljetnih alepskih borova, čempresa i drugih mirisnih biljnih vrsta Mediterana, a zbog pogleda koji se s Janikuluma pruža na cijeli Rim poželjet ćete vratiti mu se. 

ou don’t need a special reason to visit Rome, which is spellbinding in any season. We’ll let you in on some of the best kept secrets of the Eternal City.

Rome’s funky architecture Be on the lookout for three locations, particularly if you’re an architecture enthusiast. The first is Quartiere Coppedè, an architectural gem of some twenty buildings tucked away in the heart of Rome. Designed in the early 1900s by architect Gino Coppedè, this whimsical neighbourhood features an eclectic blend of Art Nouveau, Baroque, Renaissance, and medieval styles all in one place. The second is Piccola Londra, which translates as Little London. Picture

Notting Hill-style houses wrapped in the Mediterranean magic of Rome. Designed by architect Quadrio Pirani, the few streets of this neighbourhood too were built in the early 20th century in an attempt to modernise Rome and adapt it to the style of other European cities. The third is somewhat curious, in that it is the legacy of Fascist-era architecture and urban planning. Built during the reign of Mussolini, the Quartiere EUR features wide streets, imposing buildings, and grand public spaces, all designed to showcase the power and ambition of the Fascist regime. Today a thriving business district and home to several important museums (including the Museum of Roman Civilisation, and the National Museum of Prehistory and Ethnography), it boasts an absolute must-see − the Square Colosseum or the Palace of Italian Civilisation. Michelangelo’s throwaways Instead of the Madonna della Pietà in Saint Peter’s Basilica and/or the frescoes of the Sistine Chapel inside the complex of the Vatican Museums, we’ll take you somewhere much quieter and much more fabulous. We’ll walk from the Colosseum to the Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli in the square of the same name. This beautiful church became a storehouse of sorts of sculptural throwaways, from amongst which Michelangelo’s Moses of incomparable beauty

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www.pbzcard-premium.hr

Bočni pogled na nacionalni spomenik Vittoriju Emanueleu II., poznat i kao Oltar domovine ili Vittoriano A side view of the National Monument to Victor Emmanuel II aka the Altar of the Fatherland aka Vittoriano

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come face to face with Moses, you’ll understand why Michelangelo may have done so. Entry is free, but donations are welcome.

stands out. Commissioned in 1505 by Pope Julius II to adorn his tomb, it depicts the biblical figure of Moses with horns on his head based on a misinterpreted description in chapter 34 of Exodus in the Vulgate, the Latin translation of the Bible used at that time. The Pope died in 1513, well before Michelangelo finished the marble statue in 1515. But even before the Pope died, disagreement arouse between the artist and the Pope, who stopped his donations to Michelangelo. This, however, did not deter the artist from completing what art historians consider to be one of his masterpieces. Moreover, many critics believe that this was one of Michelangelo’s favourite works as he considered it extremely realistic. Chroniclers claim that, once the work was finished, the artist hit it and ordered it to speak. When you

Breath-taking cityscapes For views that’ll leave you breathless, but not because of the ascent, instead of climbing the obvious choices − that is, the dome of Saint Peter’s Basilica or one of the Seven Hills of Rome − let’s climb a peaceful and refreshing attraction close to the city centre. Janiculum Hill played an important historical role in the defence of the city against French troops, which the Italian army led by Giuseppe Garibaldi managed to repel in 1849., which is why it is often referred to as the eighth hill of Rome. Featuring a commemorative park with countless monuments embraced by age-old Aleppo pines, cypresses, and other fragrant Mediterranean trees and plants, the views of Rome you'll be afforded from Janiculum Hill will make you want to return for more. 

Zagreb i Rim povezani su svakodnevnim letovima, a leti se preko Splita sa slijetanjem u splitskoj zračnoj luci. Croatia Airlines operates daily flights between Zagreb and Rome via Split.

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UŽIVAJ U HRVATSKOJ ENJOY CROATIA

DOGAĐANJAEVENTS Zagreb ADVENT U ZAGREBU 2. 12. 2023. − 7. 1. 2024. Zagrebački Advent i ove godine nudi bogat program s mnoštvom sa-

Adventa u Zagrebu očekuje vas prigodni program i bogata ugostiteljska ponuda kojima se nastoji očuvati duh najboljeg božićnog sajma u Europi.

ZAGREB ADVENT MARKET

The rich programme of this year’s edition of the Zagreb Advent market has many events and locations on offer, during which the entire city is in high spirits. Boasting a rich programme of festive events, and a rich offer of foods and drinks, this year’s Advent market in Zagreb will do its best to recreate the spirit of the best Christmas

J. Duval _ TZGZ / Zagreb Tourist Board

držaja i događanja tijekom kojih grad živi u posebnom ozračju. Tijekom

market in Europe. www.adventzagreb.hr

Opatija ADVENT U OPATIJI 1. 12. 2023. − 7. 1. 2024. Doživite najljepši Advent uz more koji će blagdanskom čarolijom oviti poznate lokacije kao što su Park sv. Jakova, park Angiolina, Slatina, Lungomare, Ljetna pozornica, gradska tržnica i pitoreskno Volosko te ponuditi niz uzbudljivih iznenađenja za sve posjetitelje.

OPATIJA’S ADVENT MARKET

You’re invited to the most beautiful Advent market by the sea, V. Pinzovski

whose festive holiday magic drapes Opatija’s well-known locations. Quite a few fun surprises are in store for you in St. Jacob’s Park, in Angiolina Park, on the Slatina Beach, along the Lungomare seafront promenade, on Opatija’s Summer Stage, in the Town Market, and in the picturesque townlet of Volosko. www.visitopatija.com

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Dubrovnik DOČEK NOVE GODINE U DUBROVNIKU 31. 12. 2023. Mnogi posjetitelji Dubrovnika dočekat će 2024. godinu na Stradunu uz bogati glazbeni program koji započinje već u jutarnjim satima Stare godine kolendom i dječjim dočekom. Kao uvertira dočeku Nove godine na Stradunu će se održati nekoliko sjajnih koncerata, a prvi dan 2024. godine započet će nastupom Dubrovačkog simfonijskog orkestra na Stradunu točno u podne.

NEW YEAR’S EVE PARTY IN DUBROVNIK

Starting as early as the morning hours of New Year’s Eve with

Dubrovački zimski festival Dubrovnik Winter Festival

traditional carolling called kolende, and a children’s New Year’s Eve party, many visitors to Dubrovnik will welcome New Year’s Day on Stradun, Dubrovnik’s main street, whilst enjoying a packed programme of music performances. As a prelude to the New Year’s Eve party on Stradun, several phenomenal concerts will be held, while on New Year’s Day, a gala concert given at noon by the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra is bound to be a brilliant start to the year ahead. tzdubrovnik.hr

RIJEČKI KARNEVAL 17. 1. − 14. 2. 2024. Pridružite se mnoštvu maski i prepustite izvrsnom raspoloženju na ulicama Rijeke. Dječja karnevalska povorka održat će se 27. siječnja, a međunarodna karnevalska povorka, koja će se održati 11. veljače, kruna je karnevalskih svečanosti na Kvarneru i šire.

RIJEKA CARNIVAL

You’re invited to join a myriad of masks and be part of the good mood on the streets of Rijeka. The two highlights of the carnival season in Rijeka are the Children’s Carnival Parade taking

Turistička zajednica grada Rijeke / Rijeka Tourist Board

Rijeka

place on 27th January, and the jewel in the crown of carnival festivities in the region of Kvarner and beyond − the International Carnival Parade held on 11th February. visitrijeka.hr/karneval

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UŽIVAJ U HRVATSKOJ ENJOY CROATIA

Dubrovnik FESTA SVETOG VLAHA 3. 2. 2024. Sv. Vlaho zaštitnik je grada Dubrovnika, a Festa svetoga Vlaha nematerijalna je svjetska baština UNESCO-a. Jedinstvena je to proslava koja se više od tisuću godina obilježuje katoličkim obredima i procesijom ulicama stare gradske jezgre te raznim događanjima.

D. Lenert

THE FEAST OF ST. BLAISE

Having made it to UNESCO’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, and accompanied by a series of festive events, the Feast of St. Blaise is a one-of-a-kind festivity that has been celebrated for over a thousand years with Roman Catholic ceremonies, and a procession through the streets of the old town of Dubrovnik. St. Blaise is, not surprisingly, the patron saint of Dubrovnik. tzdubrovnik.hr

Zagreb MUZEJ PUTOVANJA ožujak − travanj Uskoro se u strogom centru Zagreba, u prolazu gradskog nebodera

CCN ∑ Images

(Ilica 1/Trg bana Josipa Jelačića), otvara Travel Experience Museum − Muzej putovanja. Bit će to novi, atraktivni kulturno-turistički dragulj grada Zagreba, koji će putem multimedijalne i suvremene prezentacije ponuditi posjetiteljima istraživanje fenomena putovanja, a kroz interaktivne sadržaje doživljaj lokalnih i svjetskih destinacija na jednome mjestu.

TRAVEL EXPERIENCE MUSEUM March − April

Zagreb’s city centre is about to see the opening of the Travel Experience Museum. To be housed in the passageway of the skyscraper at no. 1 Ilica Street or pretty much on Ban Josip Jelačić Square, this new and fascinating cultural jewel of Zagreb will offer visitors an opportunity to explore the phenomenon of travel with the help of multimedia and state-of-the-art presentations, and a chance to experience local and world destinations in one place with the help of interactive displays.

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DISKOGRAFIJA DISCOGRAPHY

LUKSUZNI BOX-SET IVO JOSIPOVIĆ − LENNON

Veliki diskografski pothvat, luksuzni box-set Ivo Josipović − Lennon, impresivno je djelo u izdanju Croatia Recordsa koje će svakako obilježiti ovu godinu. A huge discographic feat, the luxury box-set Ivo Josipović − Lennon, is an impressive piece of discographic work published by Croatia Records that will certainly mark this year.

uksuzni box-set Ivo Josipović − Lennon, projekt iznimne kulturne važnosti, nastao je u zajedničkoj suradnji Hrvatske radiotelevizije, Croatia Recordsa i Hrvatskog narodnog kazališta, a sadrži audio i video snimku opere Lennon, koju je skladao jedan od naših najpoznatijih skladatelja Ivo Josipović. Posebnost ovog diskografskog pothvata jest ta što će svaki kupac box-seta dobiti audio i video snimku na 2 LP-ja, CD-u, DVD-u i Blu-rayu, a USB stick pored toga sadrži i partituru. Cjeloviti libreto, uz biografije skladatelja, libretistice, dirigenta i redateljice, te glazbeni osvrti i galerija slika s premijere opere nalaze se u knjizi na čak 88 stranica. Sve ovo čini box-set Lennon dosad najkompleksnijim diskografskim projektom, prvim takvim na ovim prostorima. Zašto baš Lennon? Još u vrijeme svojeg predsjedničkog mandata, skladatelj Ivo Josipović priželjkivao je napisati operu upravo o Lennonu jer ga je zaintrigirala njegova glazba, lik njegova ubojice Chapmana, ali i intrigantni međuljudski odnosi Lennona i njemu bliskih ljudi. Opisujući ga kao sociološki fenomen u istoj mjeri kao i glazbenu ikonu, Jo-

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sipović je smjestio Lennona i najbliže osobe iz njegova života u okvir opere od pet slika, uz veliki simfonijski orkestar i zbor. Radnja opere koncentrirana je oko ubojstva Lennona, a odvija se od trenutka kad Chapman puca u Lennona pa do trenutka kad Lennon umire. U tom vremenu Lennon kroz fantaziju i agoniju u svojoj svijesti rekapitulira svoje odnose s najvažnijim osobama iz svojeg života. Libreto potpisuje Marina Biti, profesorica teorije književnosti i stilistike na Filozofskom fakultetu Sveučilišta u Rijeci, na koju je glazba Beatlesa i Lennona formativno djelovala. Libreto za operu u kraćoj formi napisala je na engleskom jeziku, dok se cjeloviti na hrvatskom i engleskom jeziku nalazi upravo u knjizi ovog box-seta. U njemu se slušatelj i gledatelj upoznaje s činjenicama vezanim uz Lennonov život, njegovim razmišljanjima, aktivizam i stvaralaštvo. U operi sudjeluje deset solista, a u glavnim ulogama su: Domagoj Dorotić (John Lennon), Marija Kuhar Šoša (Yoko Ono), Ozren Bilušić (Mark Chapman) i Dubravka Šeparović Mušović (May Fung Pang). Upravo su prvaci Hrvatskog narodnog kazališta, Marija Kuhar Šoša i Ozren Bilušić, nagrađeni nagradom Mari-

jana Radev, odnosno nagradom Vladimir Ruždjak za svoje impresivne izvedbe. Pohvale idu i orkestru kojim je dirigirao Ivan Josip Skender te zboru i baletu Hrvatskog narodnog kazališta u Zagrebu. Odličnu režiju Josipovićeve opere Lennon potpisuje Marina Pejnović. Opera Lennon od iznimne je glazbene i scenske važnosti. Njezina scenska sadržajnost prikazuje spektakularnu priču o ubojstvu slavnog vođe sastava The Beatles, koji je upucan na ulazu u svoj dom u New Yorku 8. prosinca 1980. godine, nakon čega je glavno pitanje koje je intrigiralo svijet bilo: što je moglo pretvoriti obožavatelja u ubojicu čovjeka kojega je obožavao? − Hrvatski skladatelj Ivo Josipović pretočio je tu emotivnu temu u glazbu, komponirajući operu na inovativan i fascinantan način. Osim ugledne karijere u svijetu prava i politike, intenzivne glazbene karijere te napisanih preko pedeset komornih glazbenih djela za različite instrumente, komorni orkestar i simfonijski orkestar, Josipović je sada predstavio svoju prvu operu u kojoj možete uživati na ovoj snimci, napisao je u jednom od osvrta u knjizi Dr. Adrian Eugen Hollaender. Opera Lennon premijerno je izvedena 22. travnja 2023. u HNK-u Zagreb na zatvaranju Muzičkog biennala Zagreb, a postala je dio kulturnog projekta EU Opera Vision, koji ima za cilj na video platformi svjetskoj javnosti predstavljati zanimljive operne produkcije iz europskih kazališta. Ovim box-setom postala je dostupna svim zaljubljenicima u operu i onima koji će možda upravo zbog ove opere to tek postati. 

TEKST I FOTOGRAFIJE/TEXT AND PHOTOS_Croatia Records

LUXURY BOX-SET IVO JOSIPOVIĆ − LENNON

he luxury box-set Ivo Josipović − Lennon is an exceptionally important cultural project that was borne out of the cooperation of Croatian Radiotelevision, Croatia Records, and the Croatian National Theatre, and contains an audio and video recording of the opera Lennon, composed by one of our most renowned composers, Ivo Josipović. The special feature of this discographic venture is that every buyer of the box-set will receive an audio and video recording on 2 LPs, a CD, a DVD and Blu-ray, and the USB stick also contains the score. The complete libretto, along with biographies of the composer, librettist, conductor, and director, as well as musical reviews and a gallery of pictures from the premiere of the opera, can be found in the 88-page book. All this makes the Lennon box-set the most complex discography project so far, the first of its kind in this region. Why Lennon? It was already during his presidential term that composer Ivo Josipović wanted to write an opera about Lennon because he was intrigued by his music, the character of his assassin, Chapman, but also the fascinating interpersonal relations between Lennon and his close ones.

Describing him as a sociological phenomenon as much as a musical icon, Josipović placed Lennon and his closest ones in the framework of an opera of five scenes, with a large symphony orchestra and choir. The plot of the opera is centred around the murder of Lennon and takes place from the moment Chapman shoots Lennon to the moment Lennon dies. During that time, through fantasy and agony, Lennon recapitulates his relationships with the most important people in his life. The libretto was written by Marina Biti, professor of literary theory and stylistics at the Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences of the University of Rijeka, on whom the music of the Beatles and Lennon had a formative impact. She wrote the shorter version of the libretto in English, while the complete version in Croatian and English found its place in the box-set book. The box-set brings the listeners and viewers closer to facts related to Lennon’s life, his thinking, activism, and creativity. Ten soloists participate in the opera, featuring Domagoj Dorotić (John Lennon), Marija Kuhar Šoša (Yoko Ono), Ozren Bilušić (Mark Chapman), and Dubravka Šeparović Mušović (May Fung Pang) in the leading roles. The

principals of the Croatian National Theatre, Marija Kuhar Šoša and Ozren Bilušić, were awarded the Marijana Radev award and the Vladimir Ruždjak award respectively for their impressive performances. Praise also goes to the orchestra conducted by Ivan Josip Skender and the choir and ballet sections of the Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb. Josipović’s Lennon was masterfully directed by Marina Pejnović. The Lennon opera bears exceptional musical and scenic importance. Its staging displays the spectacular story of the murder of the famous frontman of The Beatles, who was shot at the entrance to his home in New York on 8 December 1980, after which the main question that piqued the world’s interest was: what could turn a fan into a murderer of the man he adored? − Croatian composer Ivo Josipović conveyed this emotional topic into music, composing the opera in an innovative and fascinating manner. In addition to a distinguished career in the world of law and politics, a vibrant musical career, and the authorship of over fifty chamber music pieces for various instruments, chamber orchestra, and symphony orchestra, Josipović has now presented his first opera, which you can enjoy on this recording, wrote Dr. Adrian Eugen Hollander in one of the reviews in the book. Lennon premiered on 22 April 2023 at HNK Zagreb at the closing of the Zagreb Music Biennale and became part of the EU Opera Vision cultural project, which aims to present interesting opera productions from European theatres to a global audience via a video platform. With this box-set it has become available to all opera lovers and those who may just become ones because of Lennon. 

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ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE

Pozivnica: Neka to bude Zagreb!

ZAGREB

An invitation: Let it be Zagreb!

Festival svjetla Zagreb: omiljeni vjesnik proljeća u gradu Među najpopularnijim događanjima u godini svakako je Festival svjetla Zagreb, koji se na zagrebačkim ulicama, trgovima, pročeljima i u parkovima održava šesti put, i to od 20. do 24. ožujka. Maštovitim instalacijama − sinergijom moderne tehnologije i svevremenske kreativnosti domaćih i inozemnih umjetnika − stvaraju se priče koje izazivaju emocije, progovaraju o aktualnim temama, ali i bude nikad potrebniji optimizam. Vrhunske izložbe U Galeriji Klovićevi dvori do 3. ožujka 2024. godine u povodu 140. obljetnice rođenja u svijetu cijenjenog kipara, slikara i arhitekta održava se Retrospektivna izložba Ivana Meštrovića. Recimo i to da se

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M. Tomaš, Arhiva TZGZ/ZTB Archive

isoko na popisu želja i planova za 2024. godinu sigurno su, kao i uvijek, putovanja. S uvjerljivim argumentima pozivamo: neka to bude Zagreb! Za ovu pozivnicu imamo itekako dobre razloge − uz odličnu atmosferu i sve bogatiju kulturnu ponudu grada očekuju vas i brojna atraktivna događanja.

Festival svjetla, Umjetnički paviljon Festival of Lights, Art Pavilion

mnoga njegova djela nalaze i u zagrebačkom javnom prostoru, što ovaj grad čini i svojevrsnom galerijom na otvorenome… U Muzeju suvremene umjetnosti do 19. svibnja otvorena je Izložba Tomislav Gotovac a.k.a. Antonio G. Lauer, uzlazno-silazna genealogija prema koncepciji francuskog kustosa i likovnog kritičara Pierrea Bal-Blanca. On kroz više od sedamdeset radova donosi uvid u filmski rad i djelovanje na području vizualnih umjetnosti Tomislava Gotovca (1937. − 2010.), konceptualnog umjetnika i performera koji je živio i djelovao u Zagrebu.

optimism, demand for which is higher than ever.

performances of their acrobatic spectacle will be given. Lovers of the art of film will be happy to know that the 20th edition of the ZagrebDox International Documentary Film Festival will be held from 14th to 21st April, screening many of the best documentary film productions from both Croatia and the world. We’ve given you a glimpse into what Zagreb’s rich calendar of events looks like, which is why we are looking forward to seeing you in town.  Your Zagreb Tourist Board

Exciting exhibitions To mark the 140th anniversary of the birth of the internationally acclaimed sculptor, painter, and architect, Ivan Meštrović, the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery is hosting (until 3rd March 2024) a retrospective exhibition of his work. It’s worth pointing out that many of his works adorn different spots of Zagreb’s public space, which makes the city an open-air gallery of sorts. Conceptually designed by the French curator and art critic Pierre Bal-Blanc, and mounted at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Zagreb, the Tomislav Gotovac a.k.a. Antonio G. Lauer. An Ascending-Descending Genealogy exhibition is on view until 19th May. Through more than seventy of his works of art, the exhibition is looking to provide an insight into the various aspects of the artistic practice of Tomislav Gotovac (1937-2010), a conceptual and performance artist who lived and worked in Zagreb. For lovers of film, travel, spectacles… Travel enthusiasts will be embarking on new travel adventures in 2024 alongside many national and foreign exhibitors at the Place2Go International Tourism Fair, which will be held in the multi-functional Zagreb Arena hall from 18th to 20th January. The world-famous Cirque du Soleil is visiting Zagreb from 25th to 28th January, when five

01 Festival svjetla, Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Festival of Lights, Croatian National Theatre 02 Festival svjetla, Kula Lotrščak Festival of Lights, Lotrščak Tower

M. Tomaš, Arhiva TZGZ/ZTB Archive

Za ljubitelje filma, putovanja, spektakla... Ljubitelji putovanja u nove će turističke avanture u 2024. godini uz brojne domaće i inozemne izlagače krenuti na Međunarodnom sajmu turizma Place2Go, koji se u multifunkcionalnoj dvorani Arena Zagreb održava od 18. do 20. siječnja. Od 25. do 28. siječnja održat će se pet predstava akrobatskog spektakla svjetski poznatog Cirque du Soleila. Ljubitelje filmske umjetnosti od 14. do 21. travnja privući će Međunarodni festival dokumentarnog filma ZagrebDox, čije će jubilarno, dvadeseto izdanje okupiti mnoga od najboljih ostvarenja dokumentarnog filma iz zemlje i svijeta. Uz ovaj isječak iz bogatog zagrebačkog kalendara događanja s radošću vas očekujemo!  Vaša Turistička zajednica grada Zagreba

Zagreb Festival of Lights: the city’s much-loved harbinger of spring The Zagreb Festival of Lights is amongst the most popular events of the year. The festival’s sixth edition will be illuminating Zagreb’s streets, squares, facades, and parks from 20th to 24th March 2024. Thanks to a synergy between modern technology and the timeless creativity of local and foreign artists, imaginative installations will be created that tell stories that arouse emotions, address current topics, and invite a sense of

M. Tomaš, Arhiva TZGZ/ZTB Archive

PROMO

TEKST/TEXT _ Turistička zajednica grada Zagreba/Zagreb Tourist Board

ravel, rather expectedly, ranks high on people's New Year’s resolutions and bucket lists. So, we’re extending an invitation to you, on good grounds: let it be Zagreb! We’ve got very good reasons for this invitation − besides a great atmosphere and an ever-increasing number of cultural events on offer, countless other fabulous events are in store for you.

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ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE

Guests with pets are welcome

D. Rostuhar, Arhiva TZGZ/ZTB Archive

Dobrodošlica gostima s kućnim ljubimcima

01 Martina Bienenfeld, direktorica Turističke zajednice grada Zagreba Martina Bienenfeld, CEO at Zagreb Tourist Board

Cropix

02 Park Maksimir Maksimir Park

U svijetu postoji više od jedne milijarde kućnih ljubimaca, a više od polovice svjetske populacije ima kućnog ljubimca u svojem domu. Oni su članovi obitelji i prirodno je da ih vlasnici žele povesti sa sobom na putovanja. There are more than one billion pets in the world, and more than half of the world’s population has a pet in their home. They are members of family, and it is only natural that owners want to take their pets with them on their travels. 114 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023

agreb je grad poznat po gostoljubivosti pa Zagrepčani svoja srca i široke osmijehe rado poklanjaju i kućnim ljubimcima. Osim što se vaši četveronožni čupavci mogu rastrčati na lokacijama namijenjenima upravo njima, vjerujemo da se slatki dlakavci neće buniti iznenadite li ih šetnjom zelenim prostranstvima parkova Maksimir i Ribnjak ili izletom na jezera Bundek ili Jarun. Naime, zagrebački parkovi i zelene oaze i Medvednica nude puno prostora njuškanju i istraživanju za naše kućne ljubimce, a različiti smještajni objekti rado će ih i ugostiti. Zagrebački restorani postali su sve pristupačniji kada su u pitanju psi i tzv. dog friendly restorani sve su brojniji. Osim restorana, dobrodošli su i u kafiće, shopping centre, muzeje itd.

Budući da putovanje s kućnim ljubimcem zahtijeva određenu pripremu i planiranje, Turistička zajednica grada Zagreba pripremila je specijalizirane web stranice posvećene omiljenim njuškicama, otkriva nam direktorica Turističke zajednice grada Zagreba Martina Bienenfeld. Na stranicama možete pronaći informacije vezane uz obveze i mogućnosti za posjetitelje s ljubimcima, ali i pregršt zabavnog i korisnog sadržaja poput popisa pet friendly smještajnih objekata i restorana, kafića, veterinarskih službi, skloništa, kao i psećih parkova, salona, vrtića i hotela za ljubimce, dućana s opremom i hranom, kulturnih institucija koje omogućuju ulaz kućnim ljubimcima, informacija vezanih uz putovanje u javnom prijevozu i još mnogo toga što bi nekome tko putuje

has been steadily increasing. In addition to restaurants, dogs are also welcome in cafes, shopping centres, museums, etc. Since travelling with a pet requires a certain amount of preparation and planning, the Zagreb Tourist Board has launched specialised webpages dedicated to pets, Martina Bienenfeld, CEO at the Zagreb Tourist Board, informs us. The webpages contain all the information on the responsibilities of visitors with pets and the opportunities available to them, as well as a plethora of fun and useful bits of information, such as a list of pet-friendly accommodation facilities and restaurants, cafes, veterinary services,

sa svojim ljubimcem moglo koristiti ili zatrebati kada se nađe u našem gradu. Jednako tako, četveronožni prijatelji dobrodošli su i u naše centre za posjetitelje, gdje se mogu udobno smjestiti u tzv. dog spotovima dok se vlasnici neometano informiraju o bogatoj turističkoj ponudi našega prelijepoga grada.  Dodatne informacije potražite na www.infozagreb.hr

Boška i Krešo, Arhiva TZGZ/ZTB Archive

here are more than one billion pets in the world, and more than half of the world’s population has a pet in their home. They are members of family, and it is only natural that owners want to take their pets with them on their travels. Zagreb is a city known for its hospitality, which means that the people of Zagreb happily open their hearts and extend the warmth of their smile to their pets as well. In addition to the fact that you can take your four-legged friends on dog runs to locations intended exclusively for them, we believe that your cute furry friends will not protest if you surprise them with a walk in the green expanses of the Maksimir and Ribnjak parks or a trip to the Bundek or Jarun lakes. More specifically, Zagreb’s parks and green oases, and Medvednica Mountain have lots of space for your pets to sniff around and explore, and many accommodation facilities will be happy to host them. Many of Zagreb’s restaurants have become dog-friendly restaurants, and their number

shelters, dog parks, salons, pet day-care centres and hotels, pet equipment and food stores, pet-friendly cultural institutions, information on pets in public transport, and much more. In other words, all the information that someone travelling with their pet could find useful or may need when they visit our city. Equally, your four-legged friends are welcome in our visitor centres, where they will be comfortably accommodated in our dog spots, while you are getting informed about the rich offer of things to do and see in our beautiful city.  For more information, please visit www.infozagreb.hr.

01 Park Ribnjak Ribnjak Park

Shutterstock

02 Trg Marka Marulića Marko Marulić’s Square

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WINTER WONDERLAND

IN ZAGREB

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GASTRO

− Posao hrvatskog izbornika meni je najveća čast i ponos. Veselje i sreću koju doživljavam ovdje nema cijenu niti mi to netko može platiti. Kada igra hrvatska reprezentacija, svi smo zajedno i to je ono što nam treba. Kada smo kao tim, kada smo zajedno, možemo sve, što smo pokazali u Rusiji. Tada su naši snovi postali stvarnost. Za moj uspjeh najvažniji su obitelj i dragi Bog. Obitelj je ta koja ti daje snagu i energiju, ona te motivira i podigne u teškim trenucima. Slične su poruke i ispod drugih fotografija, primjerice: − Pokazali smo da u životu ništa nije nemoguće, da mali mogu biti veliki. Na našem autobusu nalazi se slogan mala zemlja, veliki snovi. Treba vjerovati, naporno raditi, zajedno se boriti, biti skroman, ponizan, hrabar, a tada snovi mogu postati stvarnost. Zaista je sjajno da na dva svjetska prvenstva zaredom osvojimo dvije medalje. Velike čestitke našim igračima. Ovo je medalja za cijeli naš hrvatski narod, za sve koji nas prate i koji navijaju za nas u regiji i svijetu. Jedno srce, jedna duša, jedna Hrvatska. Čitajući te poruke, čim uđete, postajete svjesni da niste samo u restoranu nego u svojevrsnom muzeju, posvećenome ne samo hrvatskim nogometnim uspjesima nego i hrvatskom zajedništvu. Na posebnom su mjestu dva dresa, jedan s prve povijesne utakmice hrvatske

The Family., hrvatska gastro priča The Family., a story of Croatian gastronomy

bitelj. Za mnoge najvažnija riječ na svijetu. Za hrvatskog izbornika Zlatka Dalića, svakako, bilo da je riječ o njegovoj vlastitoj obitelji ili onoj nogometnoj. Stoga nije slučajno što je svoj restoran u Varaždinu nazvao upravo tim imenom − The Family. S točkom na kraju, koja nije pravopisna pogreška nego sugerira da je obitelj sve − početak i kraj. Nema više od toga. Restoran The Family. višestruko je obiteljski. Ne samo zato što se odnosi na nogometnu obitelj nego i zato što se u restoranu već na ulazu osjeti topla obiteljska atmosfera. Oni koji svrate, namjerno ili slučajno, osjećat će se ugodno, a i svi zaposlenici restorana funkcioniraju kao velika obitelj. Zlatko Dalić otvorio je restoran 4. rujna 2023. u svojem Varaždinu, gdje živi već dugi niz godina. Nipošto ne samo iz gastronomskih razloga. U restoranu The Family. piše se povijest, sjedinjuje

PIŠE/BY __ Ksenija Žlof FOTOGRAFIJE/PHOTOS __ Šime Lugarov

se prošlost sa sadašnjošću, a moglo bi se reći da se ovdje osjeća i budućnost jer na upečatljivu je mjestu postavljen i kip Gospe iz Međugorja, koji sugerira da je Gospa s nama do kraja vremena. Za vjernike, a Zlatko Dalić to svakako jest, to je tako. Već prvim korakom u prostor restorana na fotografijama postavljenima na zidovima na ulazu mogu se jasno razaznati sve vrijednosti najuspješnijega hrvatskog izbornika, do kojih neizmjerno drži i koje ga čine upravo onakvim kakav jest. U potpisima ispod fotografija iz svjetskog prvenstva u Rusiji 2018. godine i u Katru 2022. ispisani su njegovi prioriteti koji uvijek naglašavaju isto − obitelj, zajedništvo, domoljublje, vjera, poniznost, skromnost, ali i hrabrost. Nema odustajanja. Možda je najjača poruka ona ispisana ispod fotografije naših Vatrenih sa svjetskog prvenstva u Rusiji, gdje su postali viceprvaci svijeta: 02 CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 117

01-02 Teranino s potpisom Zlatka Dalića Teranino, Zlatko Dalić’s signature liqueur 03 Ukusne slastičarske proizvode osim u restoranu možete kušati i u kavani uz kavu Have a deliciously sweet bite in either the restaurant or the cafe with a cup of coffee 04 Zlatko Dalić u svojem restoranu u kojem je želio stvoriti toplu, obiteljsku atmosferu Zlatko Dalić in his restaurant where he wanted to create a warm, homelike atmosphere

reprezentacije sa SAD-om, a drugi s prve utakmice koju je Zlatko Dalić predvodio kao izbornik, one protiv Ukrajine. Zatim se ulazi u kavanu u kojoj vlada živahna atmosfera. Ovdje upoznajemo čovjeka koji je najviše zaslužan za gastronomski dio. To je chef Damir Crleni, iskusni stručnjak, duša restorana, dugogodišnji predsjednik Hrvatskog kulinarskog saveza, koji je sve svoje iskustvo prenio u gastronomske doživljaje za goste. Neki su posve jednostavni, primjerice poznati varaždinski klipići koji su rađeni prema njegovu receptu, ručno. Nipošto ih nemojte preskočiti. Uostalom, prepoznala ih je kao vrhunske i Europska komisija i dodijelila im oznaku zaštićene izvornosti. Čekaju vas u kavani, u kojoj se nude i slastičarski proizvodi, sladoled i kolači, koje spravlja Vedrana Hrastovec Sedlar. Ovdje možete u ugodnoj atmosferi samo popiti kavu ili nešto drugo, onako usput, u prolazu, ali i zadržati se i duže čavrljajući uz slastice.

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U kavani je poseban zid posvećen dresovima svih hrvatskih kapetana od Davora Šukera, Darija Srne, Nike Kovača, Zvonimira Bobana pa sve do nenadmašnoga aktualnog kapetana Luke Modrića. A želite li malo konkretnije prezalogajiti, možete to učiniti u drugoj prostoriji uz brunch, gdje se od 9 do 13 sati nudi doručak. Sve se temelji isključivo na domaćim proizvodima koji se nabavljaju iz hrvatskih OPG-ova. U objedinjavanju i promociji svega hrvatskog Zlatko Dalić i Damir Crleni lako su se složili. − Htjeli smo da struktura ponude bude dostupna svima, u prvom redu običnim ljudima, obiteljima s djecom, mladima... Da to sve bude jedna prava hrvatska gastro priča. Mi dišemo kao obitelj, cilj nam je da svi koji dođu to osjete. Također nema nijedne obitelji a da je nešto postigla u hrvatskoj eno-gastronomiji koja nije ovdje s nama. Možete uživati u različitim platama, istarskoj, dalmatinskoj, slavonskoj, siru, pršutu, kulenu, najkvalitetnijim svježim sezonskim namirnicama i hrvatskim proizvodima, vrhunskim vinima, ali i u posebnom teraninu s potpisom Zlatka Dalića, koji je osmislio u suradnji s Badelom. Dakako, nije to sve. Kao i od svakog drugog restorana, i u The Family. gosti očekuju kvalitetu ponudu. − Mi to ovdje uistinu i imamo, uvjerava nas chef Damir Crleni. Na stolovima stoji i domaće maslinovo i bučino ulje. Bučino ulje izrađuje on

sam, za što je u Bruxellesu dobio i zlatnu medalju. Damir Crleni dobitnik je i brojnih drugih priznanja, a objavio je i desetak knjiga koje sve pričaju hrvatsku priču. Prevedene su i na engleski i završile su na najrazličitijim destinacijama. Zanimljivo je da sve što kušate, ovdje možete i kupiti u posebnom shopu. U trećoj prostoriji nude se i konkretnija jela, ali sve s mjerom i naglaskom na domaćem i autohtonom. Primjerice, domaće patke, meso z tiblice, varaždinsko zelje, pršuti i slanina s farme crnih svinja našega proslavljenog reprezentativca Domagoja Vide, tuna poduzeća Pelagos Ante Gotovine, istarski boškarin i još štošta… Možete kušati i razna rižota i tjestenine, ali apsolutni je hit pizza Srce vatreno, kojoj malo tko može odoljeti, već zbog samog imena. Kad igraju naši Vatreni, Zlatko Dalić zna recept kako ujediniti cijelu Hrvatsku. A uz Damira Crlenija to mu je uspjelo i u eno-gastronomiji. No dok ste u restoranu, ni na trenutak ne možete zaboraviti da ste u prostoru koji je mnogo više od običnog restorana. Na to vas na svakom koraku podsjećaju memorabilije, autentični dresovi naših igrača, trofeji, priznanja, medalje, odlikovanja, fotografije Vatrenih, pa i fotografija zrakoplova Croatia Airlinesa s kojim su se toliko puta slavljenički vratili u domovinu. A ovdje je i veliki ekran na kojem se vrte nezaboravni trenuci s utakmica na koje je ponosna cijela Hrvatska. Sasvim slučajno posjetili smo restoran

Unusual and unique attractions

Zagreb has one-of-a-kind museums, legends, and every building has a unique story to whisper. The city's secrets are waiting.

Great cuisine

Zagreb's food is prepared with fresh ingredients, masterful hands, and lots of love. Local delicacies, Croatian, and world cuisines are waiting for you.

Café culture

Sunshine is caressing those inviting café terraces, where everyone is sitting and enjoying themselves. There is a warm cup of the finest coﬀee waiting just for you.

Romantic Zagreb parks

The flowers are blooming, there are colors everywhere, and a light breeze is gently swinging green tree branches. That oasis is waiting for you.

Museums for everyone

Art, technology, emotions, and times long gone. Remnants that will touch your soul are waiting.

Numerous festivals and events

Music concerts, art exhibitions, unique festivals, and sports events. Numerous events, all in one location.

infozagreb.hr THE CAPITAL OF CROATIA

Cool atmosphere

Relax, let your worries float away, and enjoy your time. This city will adapt to your needs and make sure you enjoy your stay.

Unusual museums

From Contemporary Art to Illusions and Broken Relationships … Zagreb has a fantastic selection of unusual museums that you should not miss.

Medvednica nature park

A cable car will take you right up to the fresh mountain air and an astonishing view of Zagreb and the surrounding area. Nature is waiting.

Be there.

#VisitZagreb #LoveZagreb CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 119

01 Originalni dresovi hrvatskih nogometnih reprezentativaca Vedrana Ćorluke, koji sada pomaže izborniku u stožeru reprezentacije, i Domagoja Vide, koji još uvijek aktivno igra The original jerseys of Croatian National Football Team players Vedran Ćorluka, today an assistant to Zlatko Dalić in the national football team, and Domagoj Vida, an active footballer in the team 02 Pizza Srce vatreno, apsolutni hit restorana Srce vatreno or Fiery Heart, the restaurant’s most popular pizza

The Family. baš na izbornikov rođendan. Pridružio nam se na kavi uz baklavu koju je izradila njegova supruga. Naravno, dočekala ga je i velika rođendanska torta, a na mobitel nisu prestajale stizati rođendanske čestitke, poput one Ivana Rakitića, sretno, šefe. Pridružujemo se. Da, sretno. Sretno sve! 

amily. For many, family is the most important word in the world. It definitely is for head coach of the Croatian National Football Team, Zlatko Dalić, regardless of whether it refers to his own family or his football family. It comes as no surprise then that he gave his restaurant in Varaždin that very name − The Family. With a full stop at the end, which isn’t a punctuation error. It rather suggests that family is everything − the beginning and the end. That there is nothing beyond family. The Family. restaurant is family-like in manifold ways. Not only because it refers to Dalić’s football family, but also because it oozes a homelike, cosy atmosphere. Those who pop by, whether on purpose or by accident, will feel at ease. Even the restaurant’s staff function like a big family. Zlatko Dalić opened the restaurant on 4th September 2023 in his Varaždin, where he has lived for many years. By no means only for reasons of gastronomy. In The Family. restaurant, history is being written, the past is united with the present. One could go as

far as to say that there is a sense of the future here as well, given that a statue of Our Lady of Medjugorje is in a prominent position at the restaurant, which suggests that Our Lady is with us until the end of time. For believers, and Zlatko Dalić most certainly is one, that’s just how things are. As soon as you step into the restaurant, from the photographs hanging on the walls at the very entrance you’ll clearly recognise all the values which Croatia’s most successful football coach holds close to his heart, and which make him be exactly what he is. The texts below the photos from the world cups in Russia in 2018, and in Qatar in 2022 reveal his priorities, from amongst which the same values always stand out − family, unity, patriotism, faith, humility, modesty, and courage. There’s no giving up. Perhaps the strongest is the caption under the photo of the Croatian National Football Team, nicknamed the Vatreni or the Fiery Squad in translation, from the World Cup in Russia, where they became world vice-champions: − The job of Croatia’s head coach is a great and rare honour, and great pride. The joy and elation I experience has no price, those feelings cannot be bought, not at any price. When the Croatian National Football Team is playing, we’re all united, and that is what we need. When we are a team, when we’re together, we can achieve anything, which is what we demonstrated in Russia. Our

dreams became reality. Family and dear God play a key role in my success. Family gives you strength, it energises you, it motivates you, and it lifts you up in difficult times. Other photos have similar messages written under them, messages such as this: − We’ve shown that nothing is impossible in life, that the small can indeed be big. A small country, big dreams is the slogan on the side of our coach. You have to believe, work hard, fight united, be modest, humble, and brave, and then dreams can become reality. Winning two medals in a row at two world cups is a brilliant achievement. Huge congratulations to our players! This is a medal for the Croatian people as a whole, for everyone who follows us, and cheers us on in the region and the world. One heart, one soul, one Croatia. While reading these messages, you become aware that you’re entering not just

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a restaurant, but a museum of sorts as well, a museum dedicated not only to the achievements of Croatian football, but also to Croatian unity. In a special place are two jerseys, one from the first-ever match that the Croatian National Football Team played in history, a match against the USA, and the other from Zlatko Dalić’s first match at the helm, a match against Ukraine. Then you enter the cafe, whose atmosphere is lively. Here we meet the man who is most responsible for the culinary part of the story. This is chef Damir Crleni, an experienced professional, the heart and soul of the restaurant, and the long-time president of the Croatian Culinary Federation, who’s been translating all his experience into culinary adventures for his guests. Some are entirely simple, such as his famous soft bread rolls alla Varaždin called klipići made by hand according to his recipe. Be sure not to skip them. After all, they’ve been awarded the Protected Designation of Origin label by the European Commission. You can have them at the cafe, which also offers pastries, ice cream, and cakes made by Vedrana Hrastovec Sedlar. Drop by, in passing, for a cup of coffee or another beverage, or stay longer and chat over some sweets. One of the cafe’s walls is specially dedicated to the jerseys of all of Croatia’s football team captains, including Davor Šuker, Darijo Srna, Niko Kovač, Zvonimir Boban, and the current captain extraordinaire, Luka Modrić. If you’re looking for more than just a bite, try The Family.’s brunch menu served between 9 a.m. and 1 p.m. in the brunch room. All the ingredients used in the kitchen are locally produced at small Croatian family farms. Zlatko Dalić and Damir Crleni had no difficulty agreeing about the restaurant selling foods made from exclusively Croatian products, and promoting all things Croatian. − We wanted to make sure that our offer is affordable to everyone, first and foremost to ordinary people, families with children, young people… We wanted to make our story a real Croatian culinary story. We breathe together as a family; that everyone feels this is our goal. All the families that have made a name for themselves on Croatia’s food and wine scene are here with us, their products are on our menu. You can enjoy different food boards, Istrian, Dalmatian, Slavonian, different cheeses, prosciutto, kulen salami, the best quality fresh, seasonal ingredients and Croatian products, top wines, including a special Teran wine liqueur

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called teranino, Zlatko Dalić’s signature liqueur, which he designed in collaboration with Badel, a Croatian alcoholic beverage company. But, that’s not all. Guests of The Family. restaurant expect a quality offer as they would at any other restaurant. − We really have it here − chef Damir Crleni assures us. Homemade olive and pumpkin oil are served on each table. Chef Damir Crleni makes the pumpkin oil himself, for which he received a gold medal in Brussels. He’s also the recipient of many other awards, and has published a dozen books, all of which tell a Croatian story. They were also translated into English, and ended up in different corners of the world. What makes this place even more interesting is the fact that whatever you taste here can be purchased in the restaurant’s special shop. The Family. restaurant’s third room is where dinner dishes are served. All in moderation, and with an emphasis on local dishes native to the region. For instance, locally sourced free-range duck meat, the finest cuts of pork cured in a traditional wooden firkin called tiblica, Varaždin sauerkraut, black pig prosciutto and bacon sourced from a farm owned by Domagoj Vida, one of Croatia’s famous footballers, tuna from Ante Gotovina’s Pelagos farm, the meat of cattle native to Istria called boškarin, and much, much more… Here, you’ll also enjoy different risottos and pastas, although the most popular is the pizza called Srce vatreno or Fiery

Heart, which, given its name, few can resist. When Croatia’s Vatreni or the Fiery Squad play, Zlatko Dalić knows the recipe for uniting the whole of Croatia. In partnership with Damir Crleni, he knew how to achieve the same thing as a restaurateur. But while you’re in the restaurant, you cannot forget, not even for a moment, that you’re in a space which is so much more than an ordinary restaurant. Football memorabilia, the original jerseys of Croatia’s football players, trophies, awards, medals, photos of Croatia’s Vatreni, even a photo of a Croatia Airlines aircraft which flew the victorious Croatian National Football Team back home on so many occasions will remind you of this at every step. There’s also a big TV monitor screening the unforgettable moments from football matches that the whole of Croatia is proud of. It turned out that the day we visited The Family. restaurant was Zlatko Dalić’s birthday. He joined us for a cup of coffee with a serving of baklava prepared by his wife. Naturally, he was wished a happy birthday with a big birthday cake, and countless birthday wishes arriving on his mobile phone, such as the one by Ivan Rakitić that said Happy birthday, boss. We’re joining in the celebration. Good luck with everything. 

U opuštajućem ugođaju restorana gostima se nude autohtoni domaći proizvodi In the restaurant’s cosy ambience, guests are offered locally produced Croatian products

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OBRAZOVANJE EDUCATION

ZŠEM MEĐU PET POSTO NAJBOLJIH U SVIJETU ZSEM AMONG THE TOP FIVE PERCENT IN THE WORLD

eć je treću godinu dr.sc. Mato Njavro, jedan od najmlađih dekana, na čelu najbolje poslovne škole u Hrvatskoj i jedne od najboljih u regiji, Zagrebačke škole ekonomije i managementa (ZŠEM). S dr. sc. Matom Njavrom razgovarali smo za naš časopis.  Što nova donosite ZŠEM-u? U dva desetljeća, tijekom kojih je ZŠEM izrastao u vodeću poslovnu školu u ovom dijelu Europe, ne samo da se promijenila struktura globalne ekonomije nego su izrasle i nove generacije koje su odrasle uz potpuno nove kanale komunikacija te uz drugačije načine konzumiranja sadržaja. Sada je na nama, na novoj generaciji da očuvamo sve dobro što su napravili, ali i da napravimo iskorak. Imao sam priliku živjeti u više od šest zemalja na tri različita kontinenta i od svake sam kulture nastojao upiti najbolje. Od talijanskog dolce vita

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pristupa životu, švicarske pragmatičnosti i vjere u bottom-up demokraciju do američkog nezasitnog apetita za riskiranjem kao i sposobnosti nošenja s neuspjesima pa sve do konfucijanske opsjednutosti (formalnim) obrazovanjem − svaka kultura ima nešto specifično, drugačije i lijepo. Vjerujem da ZŠEM-u donosim iskustva i prakse nekih od najboljih svjetskih sveučilišta.  Često ističete da je ZŠEM već godinama među pet posto najboljih u svijetu. Koja su mjerila za uspješnost? − U visokoškolskom obrazovanju kvaliteta je mjerljiva i dokazuje se postizanjem međunarodnih i nacionalnih akreditacija, uspješnim karijerama alumnija, udjelom međunarodnih studenata u studentskom tijelu, znanstvenim publiciranjem profesora u časopisima sa što jačim tzv. impact faktorom te međunarodnim rangiranjima.

ZŠEM je prva institucija u Hrvatskoj koja je ispunila rigorozne uvjete i još 2013. postala prva AACSB akreditirana škola u Hrvatskoj, a 2019. godine uspješno je prošla i postupak reakreditacije te potvrdila svoju poziciju među top pet posto najboljih poslovnih škola u svijetu, rame uz rame Harvardu, Yaleu, Berkeleyju i drugim Ivy League fakultetima. ZŠEM je prva visokoškolska ustanova iz Hrvatske kojoj je uspjelo ući u jedno od najprestižnijih svjetskih rangiranja (QS). Na međunarodnom polju jako smo aktivni i vidljivi. Nedavno smo, primjerice, na poziv organizatora UN Climate Week u Rijadu u Saudijskoj Arabiji sudjelovali s velikom grupom naših studenata.  Što sve smatrate internacionalnom dimenzijom ZŠEM-a, možete li navesti konkretne primjere? − ZŠEM je danas jedinstven u Hrvatskoj sa svojom mrežom međunarodnih partnerskih sveučilišta, njih 150 u više od 60 zemalja na gotovo svim kontinentima. Naši su brojni partneri i najprestižnija sveučilišta i poslovne škole u njihovim zemljama. Tako omogućujemo studentima ZŠEM-a da dio svojeg studija provedu na partnerskom sveučilištu, prošire svoja znanja, studentsko iskustvo i upoznaju druge kulture. Pomno biramo nova partnerska sveučilišta, a odnedavno imamo suradnju sa Stevens Institute of Technology u New Yorku te s jednim od najboljih sveučilišta u Aziji i najboljim u Kini, Tsinghua University u Pekingu. ZŠEM je uspješno ostvario niz značajnih EU projekata koji su dodatno obogatili njegovu međunarodnu dimenziju. Počašćeni smo i nedavnim primanjem plakete Jean Monnet koju nam je dodijelila Europska komisija. Ova plaketa ističe izvrsnost u proučavanju europskih integracija i iznimno je postignuće naših Jean Monnet modula na ZŠEM-u u tom važnom području. Ovoga semestra na ZŠEM-u studira više od 200 međunarodnih studenata iz cijeloga svijeta.  Kako možete utjecati na pronalaženje posla poslije završenog studija? − Studenti ZŠEM-a rano se na studiju upoznaju s tržištem i svime što se na njemu događa. Svi odlaze na stručnu praksu u poznata poduzeća kako bi učili od stručnjaka iz industrije. U pronalasku idealnog poslodavca za praksu pomaže im Career Centar. Svake godine organizira se i sajam karijera pod nazivom Student Future Day, na kojemu studenti

ne pronalaze samo praksu nego i stalan posao. Uspješne profesionalne karijere završenih studenata ZŠEM-a potvrđuju naše procjene i mjerenja. Imamo niz alumnija koji su nakon studija kod nas završili doktorske studije na prestižnim europskim i svjetskim sveučilištima, a danas su i sami profesori na sveučilištima u Americi, Finskoj, Švedskoj. Mnogi su se zaposlili u vodećim svjetskim poduzećima. Najveći broj ZŠEM-ovih alumnija gradi karijere u poslovnom sektoru, kompanijama, bankama, velik broj je pokrenuo svoja poduzeća ili su preuzeli vođenje obiteljskih. Na ZŠEM-u stvaramo buduće lidere! Nekoć ste za vrhunsko obrazovanje trebali ići izvan Hrvatske − danas se to može dobiti na ZŠEM-u. Studiranje na ZŠEM-u ne znači studirati u Hrvatskoj, već je to studij u Hrvatskoj i na nekom od najboljih sveučilišta na svijetu (Tulane University, Tsinghua Uni, NTU Singapore, Sciences Po Paris i mnogi drugi). Kvaliteta i širina programa i studija nakon završetka ostavlja studentima sve opcije otvorene. 

ato Njavro, PhD, one of the youngest deans in Croatia, is in his third year at the head of the best business school in Croatia and one of the best in the region, the Zagreb School of Economics and Management (ZSEM). We have interviewed Mato Njavro, PhD, for our magazine.  What novelties have you brought to ZSEM? In the two decades, during which ZSEM grew into a leading business school in this part of Europe, not only did the structure of the global economy change, but also new generations, who grew up with completely new communication channels and with different ways of consuming content, have come to the forefront. Now it is up to us, the new generation, to preserve all the good they have done, but also to make a step forward. I had the opportunity to live in more than six countries on three different continents and have tried to absorb the best from each culture. From the Italian dolce vita approach to life, the Swiss pragmatism and belief in bottom-up democracy to the American insatiable appetite for risk-taking as well as the ability to cope with failure to the Confucian obsession with (formal) education − every culture boasts specific, diverse, and beautiful aspects. I believe that I bring to ZSEM the

experiences and practices of some of the world’s best universities.  You often point out that ZSEM has been among the top five percent in the world for years. What are the benchmarks for success? − In academic education, quality is measurable, and it is showcased through the achievement of international and national accreditations, successful careers of alumni, the share of international students in the student body, scientific publications of professors in papers with the highest impact factor and international rankings. ZSEM is the first institution in Croatia that met the rigorous requirements and became the first AACSB accredited school in Croatia in 2013, and in 2019, it successfully passed the reaccreditation process and confirmed its position among the top five percent of the best business schools in the world, alongside Harvard, Yale, Berkeley, and other Ivy League schools. ZSEM is the first academic institution from Croatia that managed to enter one of the most prestigious world rankings (QS). We are very active and visible in the international environment. For example, we recently participated in UN Climate Week in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, with a large group of our students at the invitation of the organizers.  What do you consider the international dimension of ZSEM, can you give specific examples? − ZSEM is a one-of-its-kind institution in Croatia with its network of international partner universities, 150 of them in more than 60 countries on almost all continents. We have forged numerous partnerships with the most prestigious universities and business schools in those countries. This allows our students to spend part of their studies at a partner university, expand their knowledge, gain experience, and get to know other cultures. We carefully select new partner universities, and we have recently signed new cooperation agreements with Stevens Institute of Technology in New York and one of the best universities in Asia and the best in China, Tsinghua University in Beijing. ZSEM has successfully implemented a number of significant EU projects that further broadened its international dimension. We were also recently honoured by the European Commission, which awarded us with the Jean Monnet plaque. This plaque highlights excellence in the study of European integration and marks an exceptional achievement of our Jean Monnet modules at ZSEM in this

important field. This semester, more than 200 international students from all over the world are studying at ZSEM.  How can you impact finding a job after graduation? − ZSEM students are introduced to the labour market and all its intricacies early on. All of them take internships at well-known companies to learn from industry experts. The Career Centre helps them find the ideal employer for internship. Every year, the Student Future Day career fair is organized, where students not only find internships but also jobs. The successful professional careers of ZSEM graduates are confirmed by our assessments and measurements. We have a number of alumni who, after studying at ZSEM, completed doctoral studies at prestigious European and international universities and became professors at universities in the USA, Finland, and Sweden. Many have been employed in leading global companies. The largest number of ZSEM alumni build careers in the business sector, companies, banks, many have started their own companies or have taken over family businesses. At ZSEM, we create future leaders! In the past, you had to move abroad to get a top-notch education − today you can get it at ZSEM. Studying at ZSEM does not mean studying in Croatia, but it means studying in Croatia and at one of the best universities in the world (Tulane University, Tsinghua Uni, NTU Singapore, Sciences Po Paris, and many others). The quality and diversity of programs and studies leaves all options open to students after graduation. 

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ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE

OSIJEK

Zašto je zima najtoplije osječko doba? Why is winter the warmest season in Osijek?

TEKST I FOTOGRAFIJE/TEXT AND PHOTOS_TZ grada Osijeka/Osijek Tourist Board

Obrisi centra grada s lijeve obale Drave City center skyline from the left bank side of the river Drava

Osijeku jedno godišnje doba donosi posebno velika očekivanja. To je vrijeme kada se pale tisuće lampica, stotine pohrle na klizalište, posvuda se širi miris omiljenih sezonskih napitaka, a ljepota grada na rijeci Dravi zablista onom posebnom, čarobnom bjelinom. Zima je u srcu Slavonije godišnje doba ravnopravno svim ostalima, a na mnogo načina i najtoplije! Počnimo samo od adventske čarolije koja traje tijekom čitavog prosinca. Već se dvije godine zaredom ovaj četvrti grad Hrvatske okrunio titulom grada Najljepšeg Adventa u Hrvatskoj. Priznanje je to, između ostalog, njegovim izlagačima i izlagačicama u čijim se kućicama smještenim u stoljetnoj baroknoj Tvrđi pripremaju kuhana vina, knedle, fritule i druge slastice, zatim malim obrtnicima čije su rukotvorine najljepši pokloni i suveniri, kao i zabavnom glazbenom programu. No poseban dojam ostavljaju upečatljive ukrasne instalacije i svjetlosni ukrasi koji tvore najljepšu šetnju gradom. Zaustavimo se na tren na toj gradskoj ljepoti. Sva svjetla svijeta i najblistaviji zimski pokrivač ne bi puno značili da obrisi ovoga grada nisu sami po sebi impresivni. Osijek je mjesto bogatog

stoljetnog i multikulturnog naslijeđa. Posebno mjesto zauzima njegova barokna Tvrđa iz 18. stoljeća, izgrađena na mjestu srednjovjekovne utvrde, a koja je danas živi dio grada ispunjen kulturom i zabavom. Važno mjesto zauzima i prekrasna secesijska ulica Europska avenija, zatim neogotička konkatedrala, ta 90 metara visoka osječka ljepotica, kao i čitava historicistička jezgra centra grada. Ugođaju pridonosi i gradski ritam lega i legica, koji su na glasu kao jedni od najboljih domaćina u zemlji. Vratimo se zatim još malo na gastronomsku priču. Zima je savršeno doba za kušanje specijaliteta ove regije, tako poznate po toplim, začinjenim i pozamašnim jelima. Osječki restorani ponudit će vam, primjerice, u zimsko vrijeme nezaobilazni fiš-paprikaš, perkelt od soma, jela od crne slavonske svinje i druga tradicionalna jela koja griju ne samo tijelo nego i dušu. Pritom imajte na umu da je ovo grad okružen ponajboljim vinogorjima Hrvatske te kušajte vrhunska vina erdutskog, baranjskog, đakovačkog i drugog istočno hrvatskog vinogorja. Ove zime najtoplije ćete se osjećati u gradu gostoljubivih domaćina, srčane hrane i najljepšeg Adventa u Hrvatskoj. Zaronite u nezaboravnu zimsku avanturu u Osijeku! 

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01 Snježni pokrivač u baroknoj Tvrđi The snowy blanket in the baroque Citadel 02 Zima u Zimskoj luci Winter at the Winter Port 03 Glazbeni program na Adventu A musical program at Osijek's Advent market 04 Slatka adventska poslastica − fritule Advent delicacy − fritule

n Osijek, one season brings particularly high expectations each year. It’s the time when thousands of lights are lit, hundreds flock to the ice rink, the scent of favourite seasonal drinks fills the air, and the beauty of the city on the Drava River shines with that special, enchanting whiteness. In the heart of Slavonia, winter is a season equal to all others, and in many ways, the warmest! Let’s start with the Advent magic that lasts throughout December. For two years in a row, this fourth-largest city in Croatia has been crowned with the title of the Most Beautiful Advent in Croatia. This recognition is due, among other things, to its exhibitors whose wooden houses in the centuries-old baroque Citadel offer mulled wines, dumplings, fritters, and other delicacies, as well as small to the artisans whose handicrafts are the most beautiful gifts and souvenirs, and finally, the entertaining musical programs. However, the impressive decorative installations and light decorations that create the most beautiful walk through the city leave a special impression. Let’s ponder for a moment the city’s beauty. All the lights of the world, and even the most glittering snow blanket, would not mean much if the outlines of this city were not impressive in themselves. Osijek is a place with a rich centuries-old and multicultural heritage. Its baroque Citadel from the 18th century, built on the site of a medieval fortress, is a vibrant part of the city filled with culture and entertainment. Also significant is the beautiful secessionist street, European Avenue, the neo-Gothic co-cathedral known as the 90-meter-high Osijek Beauty, as well as the entire historic core of

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the city centre. The atmosphere is enhanced by the locals’ lifestyle, who are also renowned as some of the best hosts in the country. Now, let’s delve a bit into the gastronomic offer. Winter is the perfect time to taste the specialties of this region, well-known for its warm, spicy, and hearty dishes. Osijek’s restaurants offer, for example, the quintessentially Slavonian fish stew, catfish paprikash, dishes made from black Slavonian pig, and other traditional tastes that warm not only the body but also the soul. Keep in mind that this city is surrounded by some of the best vineyards in Croatia, so be sure to try top-quality wines from Erdut, Baranja, Đakovo, and other eastern Croatian vineyards. This winter, feel the warmth of the city famous for its hospitable hosts, hearty food, and the most beautiful Advent in Croatia. Dive into an unforgettable winter adventure in Osijek! 

PROMO

VISA Installment Credit Card Accepted always and everywhere!

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SLAVONIJA I BARANJA SLAVONIA AND BARANJA

Magična slavonska zima − toplina u najhladnije doba godine

ili barem kakva božićna tajna? Ako je suditi po onoj da je u vinu istina, tko zna, lako je moguće. Erdutski kraj, zimi nalik na beskrajnu zaleđenu stepu, krije i nekoliko odličnih boutique vinarija. Degustacije, ledene berbe, domaća gastronomija i predanost gostoljubivih domaćina stvaraju nezaboravnu suigru toplog obiteljskog ugođaja i nedokučivih prostranstava okolnih ravnica iznad visokih obala moćnog Dunava. Jeste li znali da riječ Baranja na mađarskom znači vinska majka: bar (bor) = vino + anja (anya) = majka? Zašto je tako, doznat ćete čim je posjetite! Moćna, plodna i fantastična, raširenih ruku dočekuje sve putnike koji žele bolje upoznati njezina bogatstva. Južnim padinama Banskog brda prolazi čak osam vinskih cesta, a na posebnoj se poziciji nalazi vidikovac vinarije Vina Belje, s prekrasnim pogledom na naoko nepregledne vinograde s panoramom Osijeka i slavonskog gorja u daljini. Vinska ponuda praćena onom gastronomskom (ili obratno, kako vam je draže) baranjski je turistički forte, tj. onaj sadržaj na koji ćete u različitim dijelovima ove prekrasne regije najviše nailaziti. Pritom svako mjesto nosi svoju priču, svaki vinski podrum svoju povijest. Otkrivati ih u ledena zimska predvečerja, dok vani steže, a u gatoru, kako Baranjci nazivaju svoje specifične hobitske podrume, ugodno griju graševina, rizling, cabernet i drugi ovdašnji vinski prvaci, iskustvo je koje se ne zaboravlja.

M. Marić

PIŠE/BY __ Matej Čepl

Advent u Đakovu, fijaker s lipicancima The Advent period in Đakovo, a Lipizzaner horse-drawn carriage

riča o istoku Hrvatske uvijek počinje gostoprimstvom i toplinom koje nije nigdje kao ondje. Je li tako zbog odličnih vina koja su zaslužna za dobru volju i vedar duh domaćina ili pak zbog neopterećenosti stvarima koje remete mir u krajevima gdje se živi bržim tempom, najbolje je da otputujete i provjerite sami! Slavonija i Baranja spadaju među najzanimljivije domaće kontinentalne destinacije. Gotovo nigdje drugdje nećete vidjeti tolika prirodna prostranstva u kojima svatko može pronaći prostor za nesmetan odmor, a istovremeno i mjesta šušura i okupljanja gdje zabava uz vrhunsko vino i gastronomiju traje do dugo u noć. Vino kao nigdje drugdje Što odabrati od svega odličnoga što ima u Slavoniji i Baranji kada je gastronomija u pitanju? Isti problem muči mnoge druge zaljubljenike u dobru čašicu i lokalne specijalitete. Možda Erdut, tako da svoju vinsku avanturu na istoku možete započeti − u bačvi. U podrumu tamošnje vinarije, osnovane prije gotovo 300 godina, krije se jedna od najvećih bačvi u uporabi na svijetu. Leži li u njezinih 75.000 litara vrhunske graševine smisao života

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Božićna idila u kraju lipicanaca Jeste li ikad poželjeli uvući se pod staklenu kapu idilične, snijegom prekrivene božićne kugle? Budući da mi jesmo, i to ne jednom, dojmovi pod kojima nas ostavlja boravak u srcu Slavonije tijekom adventskog razdoblja i božićnih blagdana pomalo su nestvarni − velika snježna kugla zaista postoji, a mi imamo sreću uživati u njoj! Upravo je takvo, u blagdansko ruho zaogrnuto, Đakovo. Pod svodom njegove veličanstvene katedrale, koja kao da drži cijelu tu čarobnu konstrukciju, odjekuje žamor mnoštva radosnih glasova, cika i vika s klizališta, prodorno rzanje prekrasnih lipicanaca. Da, Đakovo, dom slavne, pola tisućljeća stare ergele, u blagdansko vrijeme jedinstveno je i po svojim božićnim fijakerima. Ugođaj ovdašnjeg Božića možda ćete najbolje osjetiti upravo s klupčice romantične kočije, ušuškani pod toplom dekicom. Kuhano vino u jednoj, a draga osoba obgrljena drugom rukom i eto vas usred jednog od bezvremenskih panonskih šlagera − fijaker stari ulicama luta dok cijele noći snijeg polako pada. Iskoristite najšareniji mjesec u godini za svoj posjet Slavoniji i Baranji! 

he story of eastern Croatia always opens with the unmatched hospitality and warmth of its people. To find out whether this is because of the superb wines that could explain the goodwilled nature and high spirits of your hosts or because the people of Slavonia and Baranja are unaffected by the things that tend to disturb people’s inner peace in parts of the world where life is lived at a faster pace, it is best to visit Slavonia and Baranja, and find out for yourself. Slavonia and Baranja rank amongst Croatia’s most interesting continental destinations. Almost nowhere else will you find such vast ex-

PROMO

Slavonia’s winter magic − warmth in the coldest time of year

M. Međugorac

Toplina baranjskih vinskih podruma The cosy warmth of Baranja’s wine cellars

Velika bačva Erdutskih vinograda A large barrel of the Vineyards of Erdut

Wine that has no equal So, what mouth-watering food or drink should you try given all of Slavonia and Baranja’s fabulous foods? Lovers of wine and local specialities seem to be plagued by the exact same problem. Try Erdut perhaps, so you can start your wine adventure in the east − in a barrel. In the cellar of a local winery, founded some three centuries ago, hides one of the largest barrels in use in the world. Do its 75,000 litres of premium Graševina wine contain the meaning of life or at least a Christmas secret of sorts? If we take the maxim that there is truth in wine to be true, then who knows, it’s possible. The region of Erdut, which resembles an endless frost-covered steppe in winter, is the home of several excellent boutique wineries. Tastings, winter harvests, local foods, and the dedication of your gracious hosts create an unforgettable interplay between a warm, homely atmosphere and the unfathomable expanses of the surrounding plains above the high banks of the mighty Danube. Did you know that the word Baranja in Hungarian means the mother of wine? Bar in the Croatian word Baranja comes from the Hungarian word for wine which is bor, and the Croatian anja in Baranja comes from the Hungarian word for mother which is anya. You’ll find out why this is so as soon as you arrive. Mighty, fertile, and fantastic, Baranja welcomes with open arms all travellers eager to get to know its riches better. As many as eight wine roads run along the southern slopes of Bansko Hill, plus there’s the Vina Belje winery’s lookout point, from which a beautiful view of the seemingly endless vineyards stretches with a panorama of Osijek and the mountains of Slavonia in the distant background. Fabulous foods followed by fabulous wines (or the other way round, it all depends on what you prefer) is Baranja’s tourism forte; in other words, these are the local social mores that you’ll come across the most in all the different parts of this beautiful region. Even so, each place has its own story, each wine cellar has its own history. Discov-

N. Milić

panses of nature where everyone will find a secluded spot of peace and quiet for a beautiful holiday, which, at the same time, offers a vibrancy and vivacious get-togethers that, thanks to the top-quality wines and foods served, last long into the night.

ering them in icy winter eves while it’s freezing outside, and you’re being warmed and cosied up with a glass of Graševina, Riesling, Cabernet or any other local wine champion inside a gator, which is what the people of Baranja call their peculiar hobbit-home-like wine cellars − will be an experience you won’t forget. Christmas idyll in the land of the Lipizzaner Have you ever found yourself wanting to slide under the glass cover of an idyllic Christmas snow globe? Given that we have, and more than just once, we can say that the impressions left on us by our stay in the heart of Slavonia during the Advent period and Christmas holidays are somewhat surreal − a big snow globe does exist, and we’re lucky enough to be able to enjoy it. This is exactly what the town of Đakovo, wrapped in its festive attire, is like. Under the dome of its magnificent cathedral, which seems to be holding the whole magical structure together, the murmur of countless joyous voices, the clatter and clamour from the ice rink, and the mighty neighs of magnificent Lipizzaner horses echo. Christmas carriages during the festive season add to the exceptionality of Đakovo, the home of the famed, five-century-old stud farm. What better way is there to experience at first hand the spirit of Christmas than from the bench of a romantic carriage, while tucked under a warm blanket. A mug of mulled wine in one hand, your other arm wrapped around your loved one, and there you are, bringing one of Pannonia’s timeless ballads to life − roaming the streets an old carriage is as it slowly snows all night long. Avail yourself of the opportunity to visit Slavonia and Baranja during the most colourful month of the year! 

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To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoË nu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvat skoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2021. godine, 3,888.529 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊi ma i grebenima. Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo lati niËno. Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovni ka), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Hrvatska je međunarodno priznata 15. siječnja 1992. godine, a od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica je Europske unije. This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the ea st. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. According to the 2021 census, Croatia’s population was 3,888,529. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The official language is Croatian, and the offi cial script is Latin. The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recogniti on on 15 January 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sje verni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine,

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treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od naj ljepπih europskih vrtova. National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Nor thern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature pro tection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe. Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spo menicima iz svih razdoblja zbog burnih po vijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja ra zliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karakteriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakral na baπtina te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinen talna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeuropskoga kulturnog kruga i istiËe se mnogim prapo vijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spome niËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u sred njovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, tako er je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine. A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of in fluences of different cultures. Its coast is cha

racterized by the influences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monu ments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cul tural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental com-plexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNE SCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the mediev al city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphra sius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik. The nation al park of the Plitvice Lakes, Cro atia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage. Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − hit-odrediπte na Sredozemlju. Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacional nog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluautocesta Hrvatska je bliæa nego ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajektom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has been a hit destination in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international experts in tourism. Croatia is close not only because of its geographic position, but also because of its network of airports and the top quality services provided by Croatia Airlines, its

national carrier, as well as other airliners. Also, due to its network of highways and semi-motorways, Croatia is closer than ever. If you have decided to spend your vacation on any one of the numerous islands in Croatia, even the most distant ones, it will take less than 2 hours by ferry or hydrofoil from the mainland.

će je plaćanje gotovinom i kreditnim karticama, a novac se može podizati na bankomatima. Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is the euro (as of 1st January 2023). Payments can be made in cash and by credit card. Cash can be withdrawn from ATMs.

Novac i naËin plaÊanja Od 1. siječnja 2023. novčana jedinica Republike Hrvatske jest euro. Mogu

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalna / regular sezonska ljetna / seasonal in summer

motorway, fast roads toll station tunnel, bridge other main roads national parks nature parks international border crossing petrol stations (0-24) airports ferry routes UNESCO World Heritage

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 133

Inspired by you! Fly to Croatia's magnificent cities of Zagreb, Dubrovnik, Pula, Split and Zadar. Check our winter timetable and book your flight!

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croatiaairlines.com

NOVOSTI NEWS

Zajedničko predstavljanje u Frankfurtu Turistička zajednica grada Dubrovnika, Turistička zajednica Dubrovačko-neretvanske županije i Croatia Airlines 14. rujna u Frankfurtu predstavili su se njemačkim poslovnim (B2B) no vinarima i turističkim agentima. Na prezentaciji su predstav ljeni planovi Croatia Airlinesa u povezivanju Hrvatske i Nje mačke tijekom zimskog reda letenja 2023./2024., a naglasak je bio na produljenju sezonske linije Dubrovnik − Frankfurt, na kojoj će naši zrakoplovi nastaviti letjeti i tijekom zimskog razdoblja. Izravni međunarodni letovi Dubrovnik − Frankfurt planirani su triput na tjedan − utorkom, petkom i nedjeljom popodne.

Zadar−Munich winter route introduced On 31st October, the introduction of scheduled international flights operated by Croatia Airlines on the new Zadar−Munich winter route was officially marked at Zadar Airport. Until midJanuary 2024, we’ll be operating flights between Zadar and Munich twice a week − on Tuesdays, and Saturdays. To mark the occasion, the first passengers arriving from Munich in Zadar were welcomed with gifts, after which the first passengers flying from Zadar to Munich were seen off.

U Londonu održana prezentacija hrvatskog turizma Predstavljanje naše kompanije na WTM-u u Londonu 6. stude noga bilo je dobra prigoda za predstavljanje našeg zimskog i ljetnog reda letenja. Sukladno zimskom planu letova povećan je broj međunarodnih linija i letova između Hrvatske i Velike Britanije u odnosu na lanjsko zimsko razdoblje letova, a jedna od ključnih novosti jest produljenje sezonske linije London Heathrow − Split, na kojoj naši zrakoplovi nastavljaju letjeti i u zimskom redu letenja jed nom tjedno, odnosno subotom. Istodobno se nastavljaju i letovi na cjelogodišnjoj liniji London Heathrow − Zagreb, na kojoj će do sredine siječnja 2024. putnicima biti na raspolaganju tri leta tjedno − ponedjeljkom, srijedom i petkom, a nakon 13. siječnja 2024. godine četiri leta tjedno − ponedjeljkom, srijedom, pet kom i subotom. Croatia Airlines u zimskom redu letenja 2023./2024. povećao je ukupan broj letova za gotovo 12 posto te ponudio 13,6 posto više sjedala u odnosu na zimsko razdoblje 2022./2023. Pritom naši zrakoplovi lete na ukupno 23 međunarodne linije te povezuju sedam hrvatskih zračnih luka sa 13 međunarodnih odredišta. Naši putnici imaju veći izbor putovanja tijekom zimskih mjese ci, koja podrazumijevaju relacije iz Velike Britanije u hrvatsku metropolu te u Split kao središte Dalmacije, čime je realizirana najbrža prometna veza s kontinentalnim i mediteranskim po dručjima Hrvatske. U sklopu ljetnog reda letenja za 2024. godinu planiramo do datno širenje mreže međunarodnih letova i povećanje ukupnog broja letova u odnosu na ovogodišnju sezonu. U vršnom op terećenju sezone planirano je povećanje broja letova za oko 6 posto i povećanje raspoloživih putničkih kilometara za 7 posto. Letovi na pojedinim sezonskim linijama počet će već potkraj ožujka iduće godine, odnosno ranije nego ove godine, i obavljat će se sve do kraja listopada 2024., čime ćemo pridonijeti pro duljenju turističke sezone u Hrvatskoj.

Joint presentation in Frankfurt The Dubrovnik Tourist Board, the Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board, and Croatia Airlines gave a joint presentation on 14th September to German business (B2B) journalists and travel agents in Frankfurt. Croatia Airlines presented its plans for connecting Croatia and Germany during the 2023/2024 winter flight timetable. The emphasis of the presentation was on the extension of the operation of flights on the seasonal Dubrovnik−Frankfurt route, on which Croatia Airlines will continue to fly during the winter period as well. Croatia Airlines is planning to operate scheduled international flights on this route three times a week − on Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday afternoons, to be exact.

J.A.Kolar_Unsplash

Uveli smo zimsku liniju Zadar − München U Zračnoj luci Zadar 31. listopada svečano je obilježeno uvođenje redovitih međunarodnih letova Croatia Airlinesa na novoj zimskoj liniji Zadar − München. Do sredine siječnja 2024. godine naši će zrakoplovi povezivati Zadar i München dvaput na tjedan − utorkom i subotom. Tom prigodom do čekali smo i darivali naše prve putnike na letu iz Münchena u Zadar, a nakon toga ispratili smo i putnike na prvom letu iz Zadra u München.

Croatia’s tourism product presented in London On 6th November, Croatia Airlines presented its winter and summer flight timetables at the World Travel Market (WTM) in London. In the winter flight timetable, Croatia Airlines has increased the number of international routes and flights between Croatia and the United Kingdom compared to the number of routes and flights available in last year’s winter flight timetable. One of the

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main novelties is the extension of the operation of flights on the seasonal London Heathrow−Split route into the winter, on which flights will be available once a week on Saturdays. Similarly, the company is also continuing to operate flights on the year-round London Heathrow−Zagreb route, on which, until 13th January 2024, three flights a week will be available (i.e., on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays), and after 13th January 2024, as many as four (i.e., on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays). In the 2023/2024 winter flight timetable, Croatia Airlines has increased the number of flights it operates by nearly 12 percent, and the number of seats it offers by 13.6 percent compared to the 2022/2023 winter flight timetable. In doing so, Croatia’s flag carrier is now operating flights on a total of 19 international routes to a total of 13 international destinations. In other words, during the months of winter our passengers have a greater choice of destinations available to them, including connections from the United Kingdom to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, and to Split, the hub of the region of Dalmatia, which provides passengers from the UK with the fastest transport connection with both the continental and the Mediterranean parts of Croatia. In the 2024 summer flight timetable, Croatia Airlines is planning to further expand its network of international destinations, and increase the total number of flights it operates compared to the 2023 summer season. During peak season, Croatia Airlines is planning to increase the number of flights it operates by approximately 6 percent, and available passenger kilometres by 7 percent. Croatia Airlines is planning to start operating flights on some of its seasonal routes as early as the end of March 2024, that is, much earlier than in 2023. Similarly, flights on some seasonal routes will be operated until the end of October 2024, which will contribute to the extension of the tourist season in Croatia.

Zajedničko predstavljanje u Zürichu Hrvatska turistička zajednica, Turistička zajednica Istarske županije i Croatia Airlines predstavili su se 23. studenoga u Zürichu švicarskim poslovnim (B2B) novinarima i turističkim agentima. Croatia Airlines tom je prigodom predstavio planove u povezivanju Hrvatske i Švicarske, a naglasak je bio na redovitoj liniji Zürich − Pula, na kojoj naši zrakoplovi nastavljaju letjeti dvaput na tjedan − srijedom i subotom sve do 4. svibnja 2024., dakle

Croatia Airlinesa arhiva/archives

Istria

#Pula is a thrill … From Pula with love T +385 52 530 100 E uprava@airport-pula.hr W www.airport-pula.hr Ližnjan, Valtursko polje 210 p.p. 89, HR-52000 Pula CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 137

tijekom cijelog zimskog razdoblja i u predsezoni, što je doprinos produljenju turističke sezone u Istarskoj županiji i razvoju cjelo kupnog hrvatskog turizma. Osim Pule zrakoplovi Croatia Airlinesa tijekom zimskog reda letenja 2023./2024. izravno povezuju Zürich i sa Zagrebom dvaput dnevno svakoga dana u tjednu, kao i sa Splitom, dvaput na tjedan − srijedom i subotom. Joint presentation in Zurich The Croatian National Tourist Board, the Istria Tourist Board, and Croatia Airlines gave a joint presentation on 23rd November to Swiss business (B2B) journalists and travel agents in Zurich. Croatia Airlines presented its plans for connecting Croatia and Switzerland. The emphasis of the presentation was on the extension of the operation of scheduled flights on the Zurich−Pula route, on which Croatia Airlines is continuing to operate flights twice a week (i.e., on Wednesdays, and Saturdays) until 4th May 2024. In other words, flights will be operated during the entire winter period and in the pre-season, which will contribute to the extension of the tourist season in the Istria County, and the development of Croatia’s tourism product as a whole. In the 2023/2024 winter flight timetable, Croatia Airlines will be connecting Zurich directly with not just Pula, but Zagreb and Split as well. Flights between Zurich and Zagreb will be operated twice a day every day of the week, and between Zurich and Split twice a week, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, to be exact.

Star Alliance otvorio novi salon Star Alliance, najveći svjetski zrakoplovni savez u čijem je članstvu i naša kompanija, otvorio je svoj drugi putnički salon

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u pariškoj zračnoj luci Charles de Gaulle. Putnici prvog i poslovnog razreda te korisnici Star Alliance Gold statusa na letovima zrakoplovnih kompanija članica koji polaze s izlaza od rednog broja 10 do 38 na terminalu 1, a članovi United Cluba i Air Canada Maple Leaf Cluba koji ispunjavaju uvjete također imaju pristup salonu. Izvršni direktor Star Alliancea Theo Panagiotoulias tom je prigodom izjavio: − Star Alliance se zalaže za poboljšanje iskustva svojih putni ka, a saloni u zračnim lukama u tome imaju ključnu ulogu. Vrlo smo ponosni što možemo predstaviti naš novi pariški salon, koji vam neće pružiti samo užitak tijekom boravka nego je i promišljeno dizajniran da zadovolji potrebe modernih putnika koji često putuju.

Star Alliance opens new lounge Star Alliance, the world’s largest airline alliance of which our company is a member, inaugurated its second lounge at Paris Charles de Gaulle airport. It welcomes First and Business Class passengers, and Star Alliance Gold Status customers on member airline flights departing from gates 10 to 38 in Terminal 1. Eligible United Club and Air Canada Maple Leaf Club members may also access the lounge. Star Alliance CEO, Theo Panagiotoulias, said the following at the opening ceremony: − Star Alliance stands for elevating the experience of its member airline passengers, and airport lounges play a vital role. We’re very proud to present our new Paris lounge, which is not only a delight to experience, but also thoughtfully designed to meet the needs of the modern frequent traveller.

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USLUGA NA LETU INFLIGHT SERVICES

Okusi Zagreba u našem zrakoplovu

Š. Lugarov

ove godine u ovim, za mnoge najljepšim danima potrudili smo se da i naši putnici uživaju u blagdanskom ugođaju. Od početka adventa pa sve do proljeća ugođaj u našim zrakoplovima u znaku je glavnoga hrvatskoga grada zahvaljujući suradnji s Turističkom zajednicom grada Zagreba. Putnici mogu osjetiti i okuse Zagreba preko nekih tipičnih specijaliteta ovoga podneblja kao što su, primjerice, krekeri sa sirom, češnjovka, makovnjača, paprenjak, hren s jabukom. Ukratko, putnici na našim letovima osjećat će se već kao da su zakoračili u Zagreb i prije nego što slete u glavni hrvatski grad, a i oni koji putuju u druge gradove osjetit će tračak zagrebačke dobrodošlice već u našem zrakoplovu. No raznovrsni sadržaji Zagreba i njegove okolice privlačni su za posjetitelje ne samo zimi nego i u svim godišnjim dobima. Odmah poslije adventa, božićnog ugođaja, novogodišnjeg slavlja i zimskih praznika još je mnogo toga što vas očekuje u našem gradu tijekom cijele godine. Stoga vas pozivamo da isplanirate skori posjet Zagrebu i okolici. Dobrodošli!. 

Board. Passengers will get to savour the flavours of Zagreb’s cuisine via a number of specialities typical of the region served in our aircraft, including, for example, cheese crackers, garlic sausage called češnjovka, poppy seed roll called makovnjača, honey and cracked pepper biscuits called paprenjaci, and apple and horseradish sauce. In short, passengers on our flights can expect to feel as if they’ve already set foot in Zagreb, Croatia’s capital, even before they land, while those continuing their travels to other cities will, in our aircraft, get a feel for

what it’s like to be welcomed by Zagreb. It’s worth pointing out that the experiences on offer in Zagreb and its surroundings have been attracting visitors not just in winter, but throughout the entire year. In other words, following the Advent season, Christmas holidays, and New Year’s Eve celebrations, there’s an abundance of experiences in store for you in our city throughout the rest of the year, so we’re inviting you to soon plan a visit to Zagreb and its surroundings. Welcome to our aircraft!. 

his is, for many, the most beautiful part of the year, which is why we’ve done our best to ensure that our passengers also get a taste of the festive season just like last year. From the beginning of the Advent season until spring, our aircraft will be imbued with the spirit of Croatia’s capital thanks to our collaboration with the Zagreb Tourist

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Arhiva/archive Croatia Airlinesa

The flavours of Zagreb in our aircraft

Sweet moments Želimo vam puno slatkih trenutaka i zajedničkih putovanja! Wishing you many sweet moments and journeys together!

croatiaairlines.com

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U zimskom redu letenja najšira mreža međunarodnih linija dosad

Nakon iznimno dinamične ljetne sezone Zračna luka Split uplovila je u kudikamo mirnije zimsko razdoblje pogodno za detaljnu raščlambu godine na izmaku te za obavljanje poslova koji se mogu izvoditi samo za vrijeme niske prometne potražnje. Budući da su u špici sezone kao i u posezoni zabilježeni rekordni

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mjesečni prometi putnika, sasvim je izvjesno da će na godišnjoj razini biti nadmašena i rekordna 2019. predpandemijska godina. To je rezultat iznimnog zalaganja svih zaposlenika zračne luke, kooperanata i vanjskih suradnika, poslovnih partnera i integralnih službi. Njihov iskazani trud i predanost prepoznali su gotovo svi

Arhiva Zračne luke Split / Split Airport archives

ZRAČNA LUKA SPLIT SPLIT AIRPORT

ganju vrlo zanimljiva ponuda letova kojima

integral airport service employees. Based

mogu upoznati drugačiju, ali jednako zani-

on very positive and favourable passenger

mljivu srednju Dalmaciju u zimskom ruhu.

feedback, almost all airlines have recognised

I ove godine, već po tradiciji, koncem listo-

the effort and commitment that the latter have

pada obavljena je berba nasada maslina na

demonstrated.

području Zračne luke Split. U berbi maslina,

Split Airport’s new winter flight timetable

u prirodnom okruženju, u opuštajućoj

offers the widest network of international

atmosferi nakon zahtjevne ljetne sezone

destinations to date. From Split Airport

sudjelovali su zaposlenici i kooperanti svih

Croatia Airlines has been operating flights to

službi zračne luke. Ove godine čini se da su

Frankfurt, Munich, Rome, and Zurich, and

prinosi u masliniku slijedili odlične prometne

this year Croatia’s flag carrier is introducing

rezultate, tako da je od 10 tona ploda masli-

winter flights to London and Copenhagen as

ne dobiveno 2000 litara ekstra djevičanskog

well. When KLM’s flights to Amsterdam, and

zlatnozelenog nektara. 

Eurowings’ flights to Düsseldorf, Cologne,

PROMO

and Stuttgart are added to Croatia AirliFollowing an extremely dynamic summer

nes’ destinations, passengers have a very

season, Split Airport entered winter, a much

interesting offer of flights available to get to

calmer period ideal for a detailed analysis of

know a different yet equally interesting central

the year which is about to draw to a close,

Dalmatia dressed in winter attire.

zračni prijevoznici na temelju vrlo pozitivnih

and for performing tasks that can only be

At the end of October, following the deman-

i poticajnih reakcija putnika.

performed during low traffic periods.

ding summer season, airport employees and

Novi zimski red letenja nudi do sada najširu

Given that monthly passenger traffic reached

airport service subcontractors partook in the

mrežu međunarodnih linija. Croatia Airlines

record highs during both peak season and

traditional harvesting of olives growing in

je pored postojećih letova za Frankfurt,

postseason, it is quite certain that this year’s

the airport’s very own olive grove. It seems

München, Rim i Zürich od ove godina uvela

annual passenger traffic results will surpass

that this year’s olive yield modelled itself on

letove za London i Kopenhagen. Ako se

those of the pre-pandemic year of 2019. This

the airport’s traffic results. More specifically,

tome pridodaju KLM-ovi letovi za Amster-

is the result of the exceptional commitment

ten tons of olive fruit were harvested, which

dam te Eurowingsovi letovi za Düsseldorf,

of all airport employees, subcontractors and

yielded 2000 litres of extra virgin olive oil of

Köln i Stuttgart, putnicima je na raspola-

external associates, business partners and

exceptional quality. 

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 143

144 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 145

146 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 147

- 0,66 EUR = 1 nagradna milja − za svakih 0,66 EUR potrošenih preko ove kartice, bilježi se 1 nagradna milja - 2000 milja dobrodošlice na Miles & More računu za nove korisnike - 1000 milja dobrodošlice za dodatnog člana - Putno osiguranje - Milje ne zastarijevaju - Dvostruke nagradne milje − za plaćanje u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travela Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditna kartica - 0,66 EUR = 1 nagradna milja − za svakih 0,66 EUR potrošenih preko ove kartice, bilježi se 1 nagradna milja. - Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda − jednostavno plaćajte svojom Diners Club karticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu. - 2 kartice − 1 račun Miles & More − koristite li se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom karticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na istom računu Miles & More.

PRIKUPLJANJE MILJA NA LETOVIMA CROATIA AIRLINESA COLLECTING MILES ON CROATIA AIRLINES FLIGHTS

148 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023

Croatia Airlines card - 0,66 EUR = 1 award mile − for every 0,66 EUR spent via this card, you collect 1 mile - 2000 welcome miles on Miles & More account for new basic and 1000 welcome miles for new additional card users - Travel insurance - Miles do not expire - Earn double award miles − using the card to pay at Croatia Airlines and PBZ Card Travel

Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card - 0,66 EUR = 1 award mile − for every 0,66 EUR spent via this card, you collect 1 mile - Collect award miles everywhere − simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC offices in Croatia or abroad - 2 credit cards − 1 Miles & More membership account − use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account

VISA Croatia Airlines kreditna kartica Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potrošnja od 2 EUR u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potrošen 1 EUR u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paketu 1 nagradna Miles & More milja.

VISA Croatia Airlines credit card Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA Croatia Airlines standalone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 2 EUR spent via standalone credit card whereas for every 1 EU R spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Više informacija možete pronaći na:

Please find detailed info at:

www.milesandmore.com

ZA VELIK IZBOR PROIZVODA PO NAJBOLJIM CIJENAMA ZA DISKONTNE CIJENE I JOŠ VEĆU UŠTEDU ZA VELIK IZBOR NAŠIH I STRANIH MARKI ZA NAJBOLJI OMJER CIJENE I KVALITETE ZA DODATNE UŠTEDE UZ KAUFLAND CARD ZA SVE NA JEDNOM MJESTU CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 149

SPREMNI ZA LET? READY TO FLY?

8kg RUČNA PRTLJAGA

CARRY-ON BAGGAGE

Dopuštena ručna prtljaga za putnike ekonomskog razreda je 1 komad, a za putnike poslovnog razreda 2 komada (težine do 8 kg i zbroja dimenzija do 115 cm). Veće komade ručne prtljage spremite u pretince, a manje stavite ispod sjedala ispred vas, osim u redovima kod izlaza za slučaj opasnosti. Dodatno, svaki putnik može ponijeti u kabinu: - 1 komad osobne prtljage najveće dopuštene veličine 40x30x10 cm - putuje li s djetetom do 2 g. - 1 dječja kolica ili autosjedalicu ili nosiljku te hranu za bebe - bolesne i invalidne osobe mogu ponijeti ortopedska pomagala ili protetske naprave

The carry-on baggage allowance for economy class passengers is 1 piece and for business class passengers 2 pieces (weighing up to 8 kg, whose total sum of dimensions does not exceed 115 cm). Your carry-on baggage must be stowed in overhead compartments. All smaller bags must be placed under the seat in front of you, except in emergency exit rows. Each passenger may additionally take into the passenger cabin the following: - 1 personal item whose maximum size does not exceed 40x30x10 cm (16x12x4 in); - each passenger travelling with a child under 2 years of age is also allowed to take aboard 1 infant's carrying basket or a fully collapsible stroller/pushchair or a car seat and baby food; - disabled passengers may also take 1 pair of crutches and/or braces or any other prosthetic device.

20 cm 100ml

30 cm

100ml

20 cm TEKUĆINE U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI U zrakoplov se smiju unositi: - tekućine kupljene u duty free prodavaonicama ili u zrakoplovu, pod uvjetom da su spremljene u prozirne plastične vrećice, zapečaćene prilikom kupnje (STEB) i ne smiju se otvarati do krajnjeg odredišta - tekućine pakirane u pojedinačnim pakiranjima do 100 ml ili 100 g u prozirnoj plastičnoj vrećici sa zatvaračem do 1 litre - tekućine koje se tijekom leta koriste u medicinske svrhe ili zbog posebnih prehrambenih potreba (dječja hrana). Ostale tekućine mogu se prevoziti u predanoj prtljazi. LIQUIDS IN YOUR HAND BAGGAGE

10 cm 40 cm

Carry-on baggage Please place this bag under the seat in front of you.

The following can be taken aboard our aircraft:

Not for exit rows.

55 cm

20 cm 40 cm

U slučaju evakuacije ostavite svu prtljagu u zrakoplovu. In case of an evacuation leave all the luggage behind.

150 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023

- liquids purchased in airside duty free shops past the airport security check, provided they are stored in transparent plastic bags, sealed when purchased (STEB) and remain unopened until your final destination; - liquids packed in individual packaging up to 100 ml or 100 gr and stored in a transparent plastic bag with a zipper (up to maximally 1 litre); - liquids that are to be used during flights for medical purposes or for special nutritional needs (baby food). Other liquids can be transported in your checked baggage.

Cruise

ITEMS NOT ALLOWED Dopuštene -elektr digitalni audio / MP3 uređaji The carrying of hazardous items and - elektroničke igre materials in either your hand baggage or - e-čitači checked baggage is prohibited by law. ŽIVOTINJE U PUTNIČKOJ KABINI - prijenosna / notebook računala ZABRANJENI PREDMETI ŽIVOTINJE U PUTNIČKOJ KABINI These are explosives, flammable liquids samo dvije životinje - dva psa ili dvije - prijenosni DVD / CD uređaji oničke naprave: U kabini se istodobno mogu prevoziti and solids, radioactive materials, infectious mačke. Prijevoz psa i mačke na istome - Bluetooth - mobilniuređaji / pametni telefoni samo dvije životinje - dva psa ili dvije Zakonom je zabranjeno nošenje opasnoga U kabini se istodobno mogumogu prevoziti substances and poisons, weapons, letu nije dozvoljen. Životinje - kamere - tablet računala materijala u ručnoj i predanoj prtljazi. mačke. Prijevoz psa i mačke na istome compressed gases, corrosive and putovati isključivo u torbi za nošenje i - medicinski uređaji To su eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekućine i slušalice za suzbijanje buke letu nije dozvoljen. Životinje mogu - digitalni audio / MP3 uređaji oxidising agents, etc. prijevoz kućnih ljubimaca, a tijekom čvrste tvari, radioaktivni materijali, - električni brijaći aparati putovati isključivo u torbi za nošenje i - elektroničke igre cijeloga leta moraju biti u torbi ispod infektivne tvari i otrovi, oružje, stlačeni prijevoz kućnih ljubimaca, a tijekom - e-čitačielektroničke naprave: Zabranjene PONAŠANJE U ZRAKOPLOVU prednjeg sjedala. Životinje koje se zbog plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuća sredstva cijeloga leta moraju biti u torbi ispod - prijenosna / notebook računala samobalansirajući uređaji koji sadrže - prijenosni DVD / CD uređaji veličine ne mogu prevoziti u putničkoj itd.da u svakom trenutku slijedite upute - Molimo prednjeg sjedala. Životinje koje se zbog litijeve baterije nisu dozvoljeni u ručnoj i - Bluetooth uređaji posade. Ako se putnik u zrakoplovu ponaša tako da kabini prevoze se u prtljažniku zrakoploveličine ne mogu prevoziti u putničkoj predanoj prtljazi ugrožava zrakoplov ili bilo koju osobu ili imovinu u ITEMS NOT ALLOWED - kamere va. Putnik je dužan pribaviti potrebnu kabini prevoze se u prtljažniku zrakoplozrakoplovu, zadržavamo pravo stavljanja putnika na medicinski uređaji dokumentaciju. Prijevoz životinja treba ELECTRONIC DEVICES IN YOUR HAND va. Putnik je dužan pribaviti potrebnu crnu listu. The carrying of hazardous items and - električni brijaći aparati unaprijed rezervirati i dodatno se plaća BAGGAGE dokumentaciju. Prijevoz životinja treba - Molimo putnikeindaeither obrate pozornost na sigurnosnu materials your hand baggage or Zabranjene elektroničke naprave: u poslovnicama. The use of electronic devices is allowed unaprijed rezervirati i dodatno se plaća demonstraciju. Možda ne is letite prvi put,by alilaw. svaki checked baggage prohibited elektronički uređaji za simuliranje pušenja only in airplane mode. Heavy and large zrakoplov je drugačiji i bitno jeflammable upoznati se s njim. u poslovnicama. These are explosives, liquids - samobalansirajući uređajiwhile koji sadrže ANIMALS IN THE PASSENGER CABIN - U zrakoplovu nijeradioactive dopuštena materials, konzumacija vlastitog devices must be stored away the and solids, infectious baterije ANIMALS IN THE PASSENGER CABIN alkohola. seatlitijeve belt sign is on.nisu dozvoljeni u ručnoj i substances and poisons, weapons, can be transported at the same time predanoj prtljazi - Pušenje je zabranjeno tijekom cijeloga leta, On the same flight, only two animals compressed gases, corrosive and Electronic devices allowed aboard our either two dogs or two cats. The uključujući e-cigarete. can be transported at the same time oxidising agents, etc. On the same flight, only two animals aircraft: transportation of dogs and cats on the - Molimo da ne fotografirate posadu i putnike. either two dogs or two cats. The - mobile/smart telephones Fotografiranje i snimanje u zrakoplovu moguće je same flight is not permitted. A passenELECTRONIC DEVICES IN YOUR HAND transportation of dogs and cats on the - tablet computers jedino uz dopuštenje posade. BAGGAGE ger can carry only one pet bag to be same flight is not permitted. A passen- Molimo putnike koji koriste ton na elektroničkim - noise-cancelling headphones held under the seat in front of the The use of electronic devices is allowed uređajima da priključe slušalice ili smanje ton na ger can carry only one pet bag to be - digital audio/MP3 players passenger throughout the entire flight. only in airplane mode. Heavy and large held under the seat in front of the uređaju kako ne bi ometali ostale putnike tijekom leta. - electronic games Animals that cannot be transported in devices must be stored away while the A tijekom cijeloga leta. passenger throughout the entire flight. - Preporučujemo da budete vezani e-book readers the passenger cabin due to their size seat belt sign is on. Animals that cannot be transported in - laptop/notebook computers are transported in the aircraft hold if Electronic devices allowed aboard our BEHAVIOR Svi su i pića u našim zrakoplovima the passenger cabin due to their size ONobroci BOARD - portable DVD/CD players aircraft: they meet certain conditions. Passenbesplatni, a usluga ovisi o razr edu are transported in the aircraft hold if - Bluetooth devicestelephones - We kindly ask you to follow the instructions of crew - mobile/smart gers are required to obtain all the prijevoza, duljini leta iconduct dobu dana. Nudimo they meet certain conditions. Passen- tablet computers at all times. If a passenger's endangers the - cameras necessary documentation. Animal noise-cancelling headphones vam mogućnost kupnje naon letu u našem gers are required to obtain all the aircraft or any person or property board we - medical devices transportation must be booked in - digital audio/MP3 players prigode postoji necessary documentation. Animal reserveSky the shopu. right toZa putposebne such passengers on our - electric shavers advance at an additional charge to be - electronic games transportation must be booked in internalmogućnost blacklist. kupnje torte i pjenušca koje paid in any branch office. - e-bookdevices readersnot allowed aboard Electronic - Please pay attention our Dopuštena safety demonstration. poslužujemo natoletu. je advance at an additional charge to be - laptop/notebook computers our aircraft: You may have seen itsamo before butalkoholnih each aircraft is konzumacija onih pića paid in any branch office. - portable DVD/CD players different and it is important to familiarize yourself - self-balancing devices that run on koja su poslužena u zrakoplovu. - Bluetooth devices with the aircraft you are currently on. lithium batteries are not allowed in either - cameras - Consuming your own alcohol on board our aircraft your- hand baggage or checked baggage SERVICE DURING FLIGHTS medical devices is not allowed. Electr - electric shavers - Smoking is prohibited throughout the flight. This ELEKTRONIČKI UREĐAJI U RUČNOJ Allthe meals drinks aboard our aircraft are onic devices not allowed aboar includes use and of e-cigarettes. PRTLJAZI d - Please freerefrain of charge, the photographs service offered our aircraft: from and taking of other Upotreba elektroničkih uređaja dopuštena depends the travel class, the length ofand passengers andoncrew. Taking photographs - electric smoking simulation devices je isključivo u zrakoplovnom a teže i ELEKTRONIČKI UREĐAJI U radu, RUČNOJ filming flight on board be exceptionally and may the part of day of thegranted flight. by the - self-balancing devices that run on ZABRANJENI PREDMETI veće uređaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je PRTLJAZI lithium batteries are not allowed in either crew. During your flight, you can shop in our Sky Zakonom je zabranjeno nošenje opasnoga upaljen znak obaveznoga vezanja. ask passengers to use headphones your hand baggage or checked baggage - We kindly Shop. For special occasions, a cake andon materijala u ručnoj i predanoj prtljazi. their electronic device or tobe turn down thetovolume on sparkling wine can purchased be Upotreba elektroničkih uređaja dopuštena To su eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekućine i Dopuštene elektroničke naprave: their device to an appropriate level so as not to served during the flight. The consumption je isključivo u zrakoplovnom - mobilni / pametni telefoni radu, a teže i čvrste tvari, radioaktivni materijali, disturb other passengers during the flight. of only those we alcoholic beverages thatyour are veće uređaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je infektivne tvari i otrovi, oružje, stlačeni - tablet računala - Whenever seated, recommend keeping served upaljen znak vezanja. plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuća sredstva itd. seat belt - slušalice zaobaveznoga suzbijanje buke on. aboard our aircraft is allowed.

CROATIA www.croatiaairlines.com AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 151

AIRPORTS

Mobilna aplikacija za lakši način putovanja!

Š. Lugarov

Mobile app for an easier way to travel!

Dolazni terminali / Arrival terminals

ODREDIŠTE / DESTINATION

Preuzmite našu mobilnu aplikaciju i imat ćete sve što vam je potrebno prije i za vrijeme leta nadohvat ruke: kupnja aviokarata, red letenja, status leta, check-in, ponude i još mnogo toga... Aplikacija je dostupna na hrvatskom, engleskom, njemačkom i francuskom jeziku. Download it and have everything you need before and during your flight with us in the palm of your hand: flight booking, timetable, flight status, check-in, offers and more... Our app is available in Croatian, English, German and French.

ZRAČNA LUKA / AIRPORT

TERMINAL

AMSTERDAM (AMS)

Schiphol Amsterdam Airport

terminal 1

ATHENS (ATH)

Athens International Airport

main terminal

BRUSSELS (BRU)

Brussels Airport Zaventem

terminal A

PARIS (CDG)

Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport

terminal 2D

COPENHAGEN (CPH) DUBLIN (DUB)

Copenhagen Airport Dublin Airport

terminal 2 terminal 1

DUSSELDORF (DUS)

Düsseldorf Airport

terminal B

ROME (FCO)

Leonardo da Vinci - Fiumicino Airport

terminal 1

FRANKFURT (FRA)

Frankfurt Airport

terminal 1

LONDON GATWICK (LGW)

Gatwick Airport

terminal S

LONDON HEATHROW (LHR)

Heathrow Airport

terminal 2

LYON (LYS)

Lyon Saint-Exupery International Airport terminal 1

MUNICH (MUC)

Munich Airport

terminal 2

SARAJEVO (SJJ)

Sarajevo International Airport

terminal B

SKOPJE (SKP)

Skopje Alexander the Great Airport

main terminal

BERLIN (BER)

Berlin Brandenburg Airport

terminal 1

VIENNA (VIE)

Vienna Airport

terminal 3

ZURICH (ZRH)

Zurich Airport

terminal 1

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information

plesoprijevoz@plesoprijevoz.hr

www.plesoprijevoz.hr

ZAGREB

Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor, Držićeva bb) prema Zračnoj luci Zagreb Departures daily from the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, Držićeva bb) to the Zagreb International Airport: 5.00 - 5.30 - 6.00 - 6.30 - 7.00 - 7.30 - 8.00 - 8.30 - 9.00 - 10.00 - 10.30 - 11.00 - 11.30 - 12.00 - 12.30 - 13.00 13.30- 14.00 - 14.30 - 15.00 - 15.30 - 16.00 - 16.30 - 17.00 - 17.30 - 18.00 - 18.30 - 19.00 - 19.30 - 20.00 Polasci svakog dana iz Zračne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor, Držićeva bb) Departures daily from the Zagreb International Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, Držićeva bb): 7.00 - 8.00 - 8.30 - 9.00 - 9.30 - 10.30 - 11.30 -12.00 - 12.30 - 13.00 - 13.30 - 14.00 - 14.30 - 15.00 - 15.30 16.00 - 16.30 - 17.00 - 17.30 - 18.00 - 18.30 - 19.00 - 19.30 - 20.00 Za više informacija, molimo nazovite / For more information, please call: ZAGREB (01) 6331-982, 6331-999 SPLIT (021) 203-508 DUBROVNIK (020) 773-377 ZADAR (020) 250-094

152 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023

RIJEKA (051) 330-207, 336-757

Dear traveller, Here you are—closer than ever to a well-deserved escape. A chance to exhale, to reflect, to celebrate. A moment to pause and embrace the joys of the festive season. As the enablers of seamless journeys across the world, we’re delighted to connect you to the holiday you’ve been wishing for. And wherever you venture this season, we’ll get you there with our network of 26 member airlines that fly to over 1,200 destinations. Until then, safe travels and have a happy holiday. May your celebrations shine bright with festivity.

staralliance.com

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023 _ 153

Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft. Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

35,8 / 117

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg) 77.000

64.000 / 75.500

29.257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11.900 / 39.000

7620 / 25.000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

174

144/150

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

154 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2023

A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

Trondheim

Bergen

Montreal Toronto Vancouver Calgary Ottawa

Helsinki

Oslo Stockholm

Stavanger Gothenburg Dublin Copenhagen

Hamburg Amsterdam

London

Vilnius Gdansk

Berlin Poznan Dusseldorf

Warsaw

Brussels Paris

Frankfurt

Prague

Munich

Vienna

Milan

Zagreb

Zurich Lyon

Geneva Pula

Osijek

Rijeka

Sarajevo Zadar Split Rome Bol Mostar Dubrovnik

Lisbon

Skopje

Istanbul

Athens

linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines' services u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama / in cooperation with partner airlines sezonske linije / seasonal routes

Singapore

Napomena: Sve navedene informacije podložne su promjenama ovisno o trenutnoj situaciji s pandemijom izazvanom virusom COVID-19. Note: All the information provided is subject to change based on the current situation related to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Code Share Partners

Star Alliance Members

Air Canada

Aegean

Eva Air

Air France

Air Canada

LOT Polish Airlines

Air India

Air China

Lufthansa

Air India

Scandinavian Airlines

Asiana

Air New Zealand

Shenzhen Airlines

Austrian Airlines

ANA - All Nippon Airways

Singapore Airlines

Brussels Airlines

Asiana Airlines

South African Airways

KLM

Austrian Airlines

Swiss

LOT Polish Airlines

Avianca

TAP Air Portugal

Lufthansa

Brussels Airlines

Thai Airways International

SAS

Copa Airlines

Turkish Airlines

Singapore Airlines

Croatia Airlines

United Airlines

Swiss International Air Lines

EgyptAir

TAP Portugal

Ethiopian Airlines