Inflight 2011 jesen

CROATIA PUTNI »ASOPIS n

INFLIGHT MAGAZINE

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» A S O P I S

J E S E N

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I N F L I G H T

A U T U M N

VA© VLASTITI PRIMJERAK

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M A G A Z I N E

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YOUR PERSONAL COPY

JESEN n

AUTUMN 2011

YOUR FIRST STEP TO RENEWAL Make your escape to Zagreb, your first step to renewal. Experience the excitement and exhilaration of a vibrant, new city. Indulge in refined, upscale comfort and enjoy all the spoils that await you in this capital city’s premier hotel. Book your stay at The Westin Zagreb and model your renewal experience with one of our great special offer packages • The Westin Romance Package • Buy 2, get 1 Free Weekend Package • Limited Time Offers FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION, VISIT WESTINZAGREB.COM OR WESTIN.COM/ZAGREB, CALL + 385 1 4892 058, OR SIMPLY E-MAIL US AT WESTINRES.ZAGREB@WESTIN.COM

©2011 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. SPG, Preferred Guest, Aloft, Element, Four Points, Le Méridien, Sheraton, St. Regis, The Luxury Collection, W, Westin and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. For full terms & conditions visit westin.com/zagreb

DOBRO DO©LI U ZRAKOPLOV!

WELCOME ABOARD!

D. FabijaniÊ

Poπtovani putnici!

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Direktor/President & C.E.O. SreÊko ŠimunoviÊ

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ΔulumoviÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ

Uredniπtvo/Editorial staff Silvana Jakuπ, –uro TomljenoviÊ, Ksenija ÆlofRoman Gebauer, Miljen

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ PrliÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Dobro doπli u naπ zrakoplov!

Joπ jedno ljeto je iza nas. Nadam se da ste se dobro odmorili na naπemu prelijepom Jadranu ili u nekome od naπih europskih odrediπta.

I za nas je proteklo ljeto bilo uspjeπno. Ostvarili smo rekordnu popunjenost zrakoplova i zabiljeæili naπega milijuntog putnika jedan mjesec ranije nego prethodne godine. To su rezultati koji raduju i ohrabruju, ali bez vaπega povjerenja ne bismo ih ostvarili. NajavljujuÊi jedno novo vrijeme za naπu tvrtku, zahvaljujemo vam πto prepoznajete Croatia Airlines kao pouzdanog partnera za vaπa putovanja.

Iako smo uπli u jesen, turistiËka sezona za nas joπ traje.

Naπa obala i otoci i u ovom dijelu godine nude mnogo toga. Na to podsjeÊaju i tekstovi, koje smo pripremili za vas u ovom broju - o dubrovaËkom ljetnikovcu SorkoËeviÊ na Lapadu, istarskim freskama, povijesnom i jedistvenom Kastvu, æivotisnom otoku Rabu, ninskoj solani…

Glavni grad Zagreb uvijek je zanimljiv pa zacijelo neÊete pogrijeπiti proπeÊete li zagrebaËkim ulicama i u ovim jesenski danima. Predlaæemo da svratite do Britaskog trga na sve posjeÊeniji sajam antikviteta…

Ako ste se, pak, odluËili za putovanje u inozemstvo, poletite s nama do Münchena. Vjerujemo da je dovoljan razlog za posjet tome bavarskom gradu globalno poznati magnet Oktoberfest.

Veselimo se svakom novom susretu, pozivamo vas da i dalje letite s nama i æelimo vam mnogo ugodnih letova!

Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek

Dear passengers!

Prijevod na engleski/

Welcome aboard our aircraft!

English translation

Another summer is behind us. I hope you had a good rest on our beautiful Adriatic or in one of our European destinations.

The summer was also successful for us. We achieved a record-breaking seat occupancy rate and marked our one-millionth passenger one month earlier than the previous year. These results are delightful and encouraging, and without your trust we would not have achieved them. A new era

Lancon d.o.o.

Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines

is ahead of our company, and we are grateful that you recognize Croatia Airlines as a reliable partner for your travels.

Although the autumn season has started, the tourist season is not over yet.

Our coast and its islands have a lot to offer in this season as well. We have prepared texts for you in this issue which are reminders of this - the Dubrovnik summer residence SorkoËeviÊ on Lapad, Istrian frescoes, the historical and unique town of Kastav, the lively island of Rab, the Nin salt pans...

The capital city Zagreb is always interesting, so you will certainly not regret taking a stroll along the streets of Zagreb during these autumn days. We suggest you stop by British Square and visit the popular antique fair...

If you, however, have decided to travel abroad, fly with us to Munich. We believe that the world renowned magnet Oktoberfest is reason enough to visit this Bavarian city.

We look forward to every now encounter, we invite you to continue flying with us and we wish you many pleasant flights!

tel. +385-1-616-01-26

Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec Tisak/Print

Vaš, Sincerely yours,

Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

SreÊko ©imunoviÊ President & C.E.O. CROATIA AIRLINES

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■ SADRÆAJ 6

Intervju: Pete Radovich

STRAST KAO POKRETA»

NewyorËanin hrvatskih korijena i vlasnik 21 Emmyja objaπnjava nam tajnu svog uspjeha. Treba osjeÊati strast prema onome Ëime se bavite.

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Baπtina

LJETNIKOVAC SORKO»EVIΔ, MJERA LJEPOTE

DubrovaËki ljetnikovac Petra SorkoËeviÊa na Lapadu, bijelokamena umjetnina okruæena mediteranskom πumom iz koje je zakoraËila prema moru i njegovoj obali, iskaz je umjetniËke snage ladanjske arhitekture.

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Umjetnost

TRAGOM ISTARSKIH FRESAKA

Teme i motivi istarskih fresaka, njihova ikonografija, krπÊanske su pouke kojima je u srediπtu Kristov æivot. Gotovo u svakoj istarskoj crkvici naiÊi Êemo na pojedinaËne prikaze svetaca.

Freske su nijemi svjedoci vremena.

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Muzeji

LAUBA, KUΔA ZA LJUDE I UMJETNOST

Zagreb ima novi muzej. U fundusu zbirke nalaze se remek-djela klasika suvremene hrvatske umjetnosti te djela umjetnika na prijelazu dva stoljeÊa.

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Kontinentalna Hrvatska

BRITANAC, NAJZAGREBA»KIJI ZAGREBA»KI TRG

Najviπe je za æivot na Britancu, popularnom trgu, posljednjih godina uËinio sajam antikviteta. U πarm starih stvari ugraena je i ljubav onih koji su ih godinama upotrebljavali…

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Tradicija

RAB I RABSKA FJERA

Na Rabu se osjeÊa pripadanje. OsjeÊa se mjesto na ovome svijetu koje nije samo proæeto ekonomijom, poslovnim svijetom i financijama. Iako malen grad, Rab je postao utoËiπte za umjetnike, a osobit mu peËat daje i Rabska fjera.

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ObiËaji

KASTAV - BIJELA NEDJELJA IZNAD PLAVOG MORA

Izrastao na starim putovima πto su vodili u rijeËku luku, Kastav je rasadnik narodne svijesti. SaËuvao je autonomiju, jezik, obiËaje i æivot, nikad omeen uskim granicama gradskih zidina.

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Obala

NINSKI CVIJET SOLI

Nin, jedan od bisera srednje Dalmacije, najstariji hrvatski kraljevski grad, osobit je po proizvodnji soli, tako osobite da dolazi u cvjetovima 104

Otoci

KOMIÆA, MALO MISTO VELIKOGA SRCA

Za ljepotom Komiæe, mjesta na otoku Visu, tragaju ljubitelji mediteranskih Ëarolija. Na uspavanoj komiπkoj rivi ili πljunËanoj plaæi osjeÊat Êete se kao da ste na nedokuËivom rubu svijeta.

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Naπa odrediπta

MÜNCHEN, GRAD KOJI NADAHNJUJE

Magnet za posjetitelje glavni je bavarski grad München i njegov Oktoberfest. Ali München je i grad bogatih trgovina, velebnih muzeja, oËuvane tradicije i gastronomskih uæitaka…

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CROATIA AIRLINES

Jesen/Autumn 2011

www.croatiaairlines.com

CROATIA AIRLINES

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■ CONTENTS 6

Interview: Pete Radovich

PASSION AS A DRIVING FORCE

The New Yorker with Croatian roots and the winner of 21 Emmy awards shares the secret of his success with us. You need to feel passion for what you do.

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SORKO»EVIΔ SUMMER VILLA, A MEASURE OF BEAUTY

Heritage

Petar SorkoËeviÊ’s Dubrovnik summer residence in Lapad, a white-stone work of art surrounded by a thick Mediterranean forest, wherefrom it appears as if taking a step towards the sea and its shores, is an expression of the artistic power of rustic architecture.

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Art

THE TRAIL OF ISTRIAN FRESCOES

The themes and motifs of Istrian frescoes, their iconography, are Christian messages which are centred around Christ’s life. In almost every Istrian church we can find individual depictions of saints.

The frescoes are silent witnesses of the times.

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Museums

LAUBA, HOUSE FOR PEOPLE AND ART

Zagreb has a new museum. The holdings of the collection boast masterpieces of the classics of modern Croatian art and works by artists at the turn of the century.

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Inland Croatia

BRITISH SQUARE, THE ZAGREB’S ZAGREBMOST SQUARE

Over the past few years, the antique fair has contributed the most to improving life on Britanac, a popular square. The charm of the old items has been enriched by the love of those who had used them for years…

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Tradition

RAB AND RABSKA FJERA

On the island of Rab you feel like you belong. You can feel that this is one place in the world that has not been saturated by the economy, the business world or finance. Even though it is a small town, Rab has become a haven for artists, and it is especially known for its festival Rabska Fjera.

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Customs

KASTAV - WHITE SUNDAY OVER THE BLUE SEA

Kastav has developed on the old roads that led to the port in Rijeka. As the nursery of nationalist feelings it has preserved its autonomy, language, customs and a life that has never been restrained by the narrow borders of the city’s walls.

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Coast

NIN’S FLOWER OF SALT

Nin, one of the pearls of central Dalmatia and the oldest Croatian royal town, is special for the production of salt, so special that it comes in flowers.

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Islands

KOMIÆA, A SMALL TOWN WITH A BIG HEART

Admirers of Mediterranean magic seek the beauty of Komiæa, a town on the island of Vis. On Komiæa’s sleepy waterfront or on its pebble beaches you feel like you are on the edge of an unfathomable world.

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Our Destinations

MUNICH, A CITY THAT INSPIRES

Munich, the main Bavarian city, along with its Oktoberfest festival, is a magnet for visitors. Munich is also a city of rich shops, magnificent museums, preserved traditions and culinary delights...

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CROATIA AIRLINES

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak

This is your personal copy

CROATIA AIRLINES

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■ RAZGOVOR: PETE RADOVICH

Piπe/By Ksenija Žlof

STRAST

KAO POKRETAČ

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CROATIA AIRLINES

Fotografije/Photos Author’s archive

INTERVIEW: PETE RADOVICH ■

PASSION

AS A DRIVING FORCE CROATIA AIRLINES

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Pete Radovich, roeni NewyorËanin hrvatskih korijena, proslavljeni sportski producent i vlasnik Ëak 21 Emmyja, kreativna snaga popularne ameriËke televizijske mreæe CBS te producent mega-gledanog spektakla ameriËkog nogometa Super Bowl, svako ljeto provodi u Hrvatskoj. Tajnu svog uspjeha objaπnjava vrlo jednostavno.

Morate osjeÊati strast prema onome Ëime se bavite kako biste bili uspjeπni, poruËuje naπ sugovornik.

Pete Radovich, a native of New York of Croatian descent, a famous sports producer and a 21-time Emmy-award winner, the creative force behind CBS, the popular American network, and the producer of the American football mega spectacle, The Super Bowl, spends every summer in Croatia. His recipe for success is quite simple: You have to be passionate about what you do in order to be successful.

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CROATIA AIRLINES

ete Radovich i te kako je svjestan svojih hrvatskih korijena. Peteova majka porijeklom je s Paπmana, otac je s Kaprija. Stoga nije Ëudno πto je pomno pratio hrvatske rukometaπe na Olimpijskim igrama u Atlani, Tonija KukoËa kad je osvojio NBA prsten, osvajaËicu mnogih olimpijskih medalja, najbolju hrvatsku skijaπicu svih vremena Janicu KosteliÊ u Salt Lake Cityju, a u Wimbledonu Gorana IvaniπeviÊa, koji je osvajanje toga teniskog turnira posvetio neponovljivome hrvatskom koπarkaπu Draæenu PetroviÊu. Hrvatska je njegova oaza za opuπtanje, a osobito su mu dragi dalmatinski otoci, na kojima, daleko od oËiju javnosti, u druπtvu obitelji i prijatelja puni baterije za jesen i zimu. U Hrvatskoj se, kaæe, osjeÊa kod kuÊe.

■ I ovoga ste ljeta posjetili Hrvatsku.

Kakvi su Vaπi dojmovi s toga posljednjeg putovanja u naπu zemlju koja je, zapravo, i Vaπa, zbog obiteljskog porijekla?

- Svaki put kada doem u Hrvatsku, najviπe me iznenadi porast broja turista te, preciznije, porast broja turista iz SAD-a i Kanade. »itavog æivota u Americi govorim ljudima kako mi je obitelj iz Hrvatske, a reakcija je uvijek bila, gdje je to? Danas, kad govorim ljudima o zemlji moje obitelji, reakcija je obiËno, Ëujem da je ondje prekrasno. Ili, prijatelj mi je nedavno posjetio Hrvatsku i rekao mi da moram i ja, jer ta je zemlja predivna. Dakle, glas je stigao i do Sjeverne Amerike, a bilo je i vrijeme. Godinama sam pokuπavao uvjeriti prijatelje i kolege Amerikance da posjete Hrvatsku, no uvijek sam osjeÊao kod njih neko oklijevanje. To se promijenilo u posljednjih pet godina. Sad me neprestano netko ispituje kamo iÊi i πto raditi u Hrvatskoj. Uvijek im drage volje pomaæem.

■ Ljetujete li svake godine u Hrvatskoj?

Traæite li, i nalazite li, na hrvatskim otocima mir, kao kontrapunkt ameriËkom æivotu pod adrenalinom?

- Da, dolazim svakog ljeta u Hrvatsku. Prema ugovoru s CBS-jem imam pravo cijeli srpanj biti na godiπnjem odmoru, upravo zato da mogu provoditi ljeta u Dalmaciji. Ljeto u Hrvatskoj veoma mi je vaæno. Mogao bih se odmarati bilo gdje u svijetu, no druge mi zemlje ne padnu ni na um kada doe vrijeme za planiranje ljeta. Zbog posla ionako mnogo putujem i upoznajem svijet, tako da je ljeto moje vrijeme za opuπtanje i boravak s obitelji i prijateljima na predivnoj jadranskoj obali. Takoer, s obzirom na razinu stresa koja prati moj posao, Ëesta putovanja i ludilo æivota, u Hrvatsku dolazim kako bih se skrio i opustio.

Kad stignem, vrlo se rijetko udaljavam od otoka.

Na hrvatskom kopnu, od Zagreba do Splita, ima toliko toga, ali uvijek radije provodim vrijeme na manjim otocima, koji su podalje od guæve i od obale. Ondje punim baterije.

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■ Moæete li opisati Vaπ tipiËni radni dan?

- Na sreÊu, nikad nemam tipiËan radni dan.

Svaki dan i svaki tjedan uistinu se razlikuju.

Katkad puna dva ili tri tjedna radim od kuÊe.

Zatim katkad, recimo u vrijeme Olimpijskih igara ili Super Bowla, putujem i nema me kod kuÊe po nekoliko tjedana. To je ono πto najviπe volim kod svog posla - raznolikost. Ludilo ovog zanimanja savrπeno mi odgovara. U æivotu ne bih niπta mijenjao. Imao sam mnogo sreÊe.

■ Moæe li stres biti izvor kreativnosti na poslu?

- To je izvrsno pitanje. Apsolutno. Koliko god suludo zvuËalo, katkad sâm stvaram stres kako bih bolje radio. Moji bi bliænji rekli da, kad bi neπto na meni mogli promijeniti, to bi bila moja sklonost otezanju. Ljude to izluuje, ali ja najbolje radim pod pritiskom i stresom.

Znam da zvuËi Ëudno, no najbolje radim kad se borim s vremenskim rokom. Tako povremeno namjerno odgaam neπto do posljednjeg trenutka kako bih stvorio stres. Ne ponosim se time, no Ëini se da djeluje. »emu onda mijenjati?

Takoer, oboæavam raditi na velikim sportskim dogaanjima uæivo, poput Super Bowla i Olimpijskih igara, kad znam da me gledaju milijuni ljudi te da Êe i najmanju greπku svatko primijetiti. U takvim situacijama postoji dodatan pritisak, a taj pritisak stvara adrenalin, koji mi daje energiju. Dakle, toËno, stres u æivotu zapravo je neπto pozitivno. Bizarno, svjestan sam.

■ Meu mnogim velikim projektima, koje istiËete u intervjuima, obiËno spominjete Super Bowl, spektakl ameriËkog nogometa, koji u Americi redovito obara rekorde gledanosti. Kako je raditi takav projekt?

- Neopisivo uzbudljivo. To je trenutak kad znate da Êe svatko koga poznajete u SAD-u vidjeti kako radite. ObiËno privuËe viπe od sto milijuna gledalaca samo u Americi te joπ milijune diljem svijeta. Mislim da samo zavrπnica Svjetskog prvenstva u nogometu postiæe veÊu gledanost.

Dakako, razina je stresa visoka, ali ako radite na ameriËkoj televiziji, to predstavlja sam vrh.

NemoguÊe je sudjelovati na veÊemu i vaænijem dogaaju. A ono πto je dobro u takvoj situaciji jest: uspijete li svladati Super Bowl, sve ostalo Ëini se mnogo lakπim.

■ AmeriËki nogomet tipiËni je ameriËki fenomen. Zaπto je tako popularan u Americi, a u Europi joπ nije stekao ni pribliænu popularnost?

- Postoje brojne teorije o popularnosti ameriËkog nogometa. Neki misle da je razlog njegove popularnosti nasilna priroda igre. Drugi da je to zbog naËina igranja, sa stankama nakon svakog poteza, ili svakih 30 sekundi,

zbog Ëega je pogodan za televiziju i slijedom toga popularan. Ali rekao bih da je to karakteristiËan ameriËki sport. Pogledamo li dva najpopularnija ameriËka sporta, ameriËki nogomet i bejzbol, vidjet Êemo da su oba nastala u Sjedinjenim Dræavama te da se igraju gotovo iskljuËivo ondje. Takoer, mislim da zbog istog razloga nogomet nikad neÊe doseÊi tu razinu popularnosti u SAD-u. Jednostavno nije dovoljno ameriËki za domaÊu publiku. ©teta, jer nogomet je uistinu lijep sport.

■ Koji je Vama najdraæi sport i zaπto?

Bavite li se kojim sportom?

- Iz Zadra sam, dakle odgovor Êe oËito biti koπarka. Proveo sam godinu dana u zadarskoj gimnaziji i imam lijepe uspomene na rane dolaske na utakmice i skupljanje lopti zadarskim igraËima kao πto su PopoviÊ, VrankoviÊ i PetranoviÊ, te na gostujuÊe igraËe poput Draæena PetroviÊa, Arvydasa Sabonisa... Isto tako, visok sam gotovo dva metra, tako da je to bio prirodan sport za mene. Mrzim teretane i nemam strpljenja za trËanje na traci, pa je jedini naËin da ostanem u formi igranje koπarke triput na tjedan.

■ ©to biste joπ u karijeri izdvojili kao neπto osobito, neπto πto ste radili s osobitom radoπÊu?

- Moæda najprestiæniju TV-emisiju u Americi koja se zove ©ezdeset minuta. Poboæno je pratim od svoje jedanaeste godine i, neosporno, za mene je to najdraæa televizijska emisija svih vremena. Prije otprilike dvije godine posreÊilo mi se da napravim reportaæu za tu kultnu emisiju, a doæivljaj je bio neopisiv. Iako je rijeË o informativnoj, a ne sportskoj emisiji, bio je to vrhunac moje karijere. Otad sam za njih producirao joπ nekoliko reportaæa te odræavam s njima poslovni odnos, πto mi i dalje katkad zvuËi nevjerojatno. Osim toga, nedavno sam producirao glazbeni spot za naπu emisiju Super Bowla s glazbenom ikonom Jay-Z-jem.

Radio sam na mnogim projektima sa slavnim osobama, Princeom, P-Diddyjem, Harrisonom Fordom, Samuelom L. Jacksonom i mnogima drugima, ali ovo je bilo drugaËije. Prvo, Jay-Z jedan je od meni najdraæih umjetnika. Velik sam oboæavatelj njegove glazbe. Drugo, bilo je to za Super Bowl, pa sam znao da je mnogo toga na kocki te da Êe svi vidjeti moj rad, bio on dobar ili loπ. I, na posljetku, Jay-Z se pokazao kao jedan od najopuπtenijih i najprizemnijih ljudi koje sam ikad upoznao. Zbog njega mi je ta zgoda ostala u tako divnom sjeÊanju.

Bio je strpljiv, kooperativan i jednostavno normalan Ëovjek, πto je pravo osvjeæenje. I na kraju, otkako sam poËeo raditi na televiziji, uvijek sam sanjao o tome da spojim posao sa svojim hrvatskim podrijetlom i pokrenem neki projekt ovdje u Hrvatskoj. Proπlog ljeta

bio sam pozvan na Libertas Film Festival u Dubrovnik kako bih predstavio jedan od mojih dokumentaraca i otad su mi se otvorila mnoga vrata u hrvatskim medijima.

■ Viπe ste puta u intervjuima isticali da je Vaπ æivot odredila sluËajnost. Prijatelj Vam je, kao studentu, sluËajno spomenuo moguÊnost prakse na NCB-ju, a to Vam je posve odredilo buduÊnost i æivot kakvim danas æivite. Koliko, prema Vaπemu miπljenju, mladi ljudi danas imaju moguÊnosti usmjeravati æivot, a koliku ulogu igra sreÊa? Razlikuje li se to u Americi i u Hrvatskoj?

- Da, postoji razlika. Moæda jednostavno zato πto u Americi æivi tristo milijuna ljudi, a u Hrvatskoj Ëetiri i pol milijuna. Nisam siguran.

Ali znam da nema alternative napornom radu.

Kad sam poËeo staæirati, morao sam dolaziti u ured jedanput ili dvaput na tjedan. Dolazio sam svaki dan, pet dana u tjednu, punih pet mjeseci. Nisu me se mogli rijeπiti. Bilo mi je izvrsno i osjetio sam da mi je to najveÊa prilika u æivotu. Kad sam zavrπio staæ, odmah sam dobio stalan posao. Rekao bih da na neki naËin moæemo sami upravljati svojom sreÊom.

■ Koje biste osobine izdvojili kao odluËujuÊe za uspjeh mladog Ëovjeka koji traæi sebe na svome profesionalnom putu? ©to je sve kljuËno za uspjeh?

- Uæivajte u onome πto radite. Znam da zvuËi jednostavno, no katkad nije lako. Mislim da nikad neÊete biti sretni odaberete li neko zanimanje samo zato πto mislite da Êete se tako obogatiti. Morate osjeÊati strast prema onome Ëime se bavite kako biste bili uspjeπni. Moj je savjet da pronaete neπto πto vas oduπevljava te da radite sve πto moæete kako biste se probili. Jednom kad se probijete, bez obzira na primanja, postat Êete uspjeπni, jer bit Êe vam stalo do proizvoda i htjet Êete se truditi iz dana u dan. Ono Ëime se bavim smatram pozivom, ne poslom. Drugim rijeËima, odlazak na posao ne smatram zadaÊom, nego se ponosim time πto radim i zaista se radujem dolasku na posao. Po meni, to je najvaæniji kljuË uspjeha - odabrati zanimanje kojim Êete se baviti sa straπÊu, bez obzira na plaÊu.

Novac Êe veÊ doÊi.

■ Volite li putovati? Od svih zemalja koje ste posjetili, koje su na Vas ostavile najsnažniji dojam?

- Putovanje je moæda najuzbudljiviji i najljepπi dio mog posla. Bio sam svuda, od otoËja Samoa do Koreje, od Australije do Juæne Afrike, od Havaja do Irske. Upoznavanje ljudi sa svih strana svijeta i stjecanje znanja o njihovoj kulturi i jeziku pravi je uæitak i Ëast.

Ali, bez sumnje, Zambija, ili, preciznije, zambijski narod, najviπe me se dojmio. Bilo je to moje

prvo putovanje u Afriku. Radio sam reportaæu o ondaπnjemu koπarkaπkom programu, ali morali smo putovati u dublje, udaljenije dijelove Zambije. Zambija je jedna od najsiromaπnijih dræava na svijetu, a epidemija side poharala je zemlju. Otprilike 15 posto stanovniπtva zaraæeno je HIV-om, a æivotni vijek Zambijaca iznosi otprilike 39 godina.

Ali, unatoË svemu, bili su to najljubazniji i najsrdaËniji ljudi koje sam igdje upoznao. Svi su bili ugodni i gostoljubivi. A πto smo dublje prodirali u πumu, πto su sela postajala siromaπnija, to su ljudi bivali bolji. »udnovato. VodiË nam je rekao da smo snimatelj i ja prvi bijelci koje su neka od ove djece ikada vidjela. Tad sam shvatio da ovi ljudi nikad nisu napustili svoje selo. U tome su zabaËenom podruËju proæivjeli Ëitav svoj æivot.

Nikad nisu vidjeli televizor ili raËunalo. Ne znaju πto je Mercedes ili iPhone. Sretni su ako jedu jedanput na dan i nikad nisu bili u restoranu.

No upravo zato i nisu ogorËeni. Ne znaju πto nemaju. Poznaju samo ono πto ih okruæuje i to im je u redu. Moæda æivot nije bajan, ali dovoljno je dobar. Nakon tog putovanja svjetonazor mi se drastiËno promijenio. Otad drukËije gledam na æivotne probleme. Taj mi je doæivljaj promijenio æivot i pruæio mi sasvim novu perspektivu.

■ Koja biste mjesta u Hrvatskoj preporuËili prijateljima kao neπto πto se ne smije propustiti i zaπto.

- ReÊi Êu neπto πto su zacijelo svi veÊ Ëuli, ali u ovom sluËaju ne mogu drukËije. Dubrovnik je bez sumnje hrvatski krunski dragulj. Prekrasan je to povijesni grad, slikovit i s mnogo izvrsnih restorana i ugodnih lokala. Neizbjeæan je za svakoga tko posjeÊuje Hrvatsku. No inaËe, toplo bih preporuËio posjet otocima, i velikima i malima. Najpoznatiji su veliki otoci, koje veÊina najËeπÊe posjeÊuje, KorËula, Hvar i BraË. Ali osobno su mi draæi manje poznati otoci poput Lastova, Raba i Visa. Pustolovima preporuËujem posjet nekim zaista malim skrivenim draguljima, koje veÊina stranaca neÊe naÊi istaknute u turistiËkim vodiËima, otocima kao πto su Kaprije, Paπman i Zverinac. Na tim Êete otocima pronaÊi mir i tiπinu, jer ondje æivot nije okrenut turizmu i mjeπtani su viπe usredotoËeni na svakodnevni æivot. To je ono πto me najviπe privlaËi kod tih draæesnih, spokojnih otoka, osjeÊaj da ne upadam u zamku za turiste, nego da posjeÊujem neki drugi svijet iz nekoga davnijeg vremena. Doete li na otok Paπman, posjetite gradiÊ Neviane. Ako ste ondje, moæda vas poËastim piÊem.

■ Jeste li osoba koja voli letjeti? Kako provodite vrijeme na dugaËkim letovima, na primjer izmeu Amerike i Hrvatske?

- Osim Ëekanja u redu za sigurnosni pregled, zaista volim letjeti… i to veoma. Oduvijek tvrdim da mi neke, ako ne i sve, dobre zamisli paCROATIA AIRLINES

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daju na um dok sjedim u zrakoplovu i sluπam iPod. Ne znam zaπto. Moæda zbog mira koji vlada na dugom letu ili nedostatka smetnji, poput SMS poruka ili telefonskih poziva. Koji god bio razlog, i bilo da sluπam Green Day i Foo Fighterse ili Olivera i Gibonnija, najopuπteniji sam i najproduktivniji dok sjedim u zrakoplovu i sluπam svoju omiljenu glazbu. A od svih letova niπta mi nije draæe od slijetanja u zagrebaËku zraËnu luku, jer znam da me Ëeka nekoliko tjedana sunca i odmora.

■

ete Radovich is quite aware of his Croatian roots. Pete’s mother was born on the island Paπman, and his father on the island Kaprije. It is therefore not surprising that he closely followed the Croatian handball team during the Olympic Games in Athens, Toni KukoË when he won the NBA ring, the best Croatian skier of all time, Janica KosteliÊ, in Salt Lake City, as well as Goran IvaniπeviÊ, who dedicated his victory at Wimbledon to the legend of Croatian basketball, Draæen PetroviÊ. Croatia is his oasis for relaxation, and he particularly loves the Dalmatian islands. Here, far from the spotlight, with his family and friends, he recharges his batteries for the autumn and winter seasons.

Pete told us that he feels at home in Croatia.

■ You have recently visited Croatia. What were some of your impressions of your last trip to our country, which is actually also your country because of your family roots and ties?

- The most striking thing to me is the increase in tourists every time I come to Croatia, and more specifically, the increase in tourists from the United States and Canada. My entire life in America I have been telling people that my family is from Croatia and the response has always been, Where is that? Now when I talk to people about my family’s country the response is usually, Oh, I hear it’s gorgeous there. Or a friend of mine recently visited Croatia and told me that I have to go, it’s such a beautiful country.

The word has obviously reached North America and it’s about time. For years I tried to convince my American friends and coworkers to come visit, but I always sensed reluctance on their part. Over the last fi ve years that has changed. I now constantly have people reaching out to me asking for tips on where to go and what to do while they’re in Croatia.

And I’m always happy to help.

■ Do you spend every summer vacation in Croatia? Do you look for and find peace and quiet on the Croatian islands, as compared to the American adrenalinedriven lifestyle?

P

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- First of all, yes, I come to Croatia every summer. As part of my contract with CBS, I am given the entire month of July for vacation, specifically so that I can spend the summer in Dalmatia.

My summers in Croatia are extremely important to me. I suppose that I could vacation anywhere in the world, but other countries never even cross my mind when it comes time to plan my summer. With my job, I already get to travel and see so much of the world, so the summertime is my time to relax and spend quality time with family and friends on the beautiful Adriatic coast.

Also, given the level of stress that comes with my job, the frequent travel and craziness of my life, I come to Croatia to hide and relax.

Once I get here I very rarely leave the islands.

There is so much to do and see on the Croatian mainland, from Zagreb to Split, but my preference is to spend time on the smaller, less hectic islands off the coast of Croatia.

■ Can you describe your typical working day for us?

- Fortunately for me, I never have a typical workday. Every day and every week is truly different. There are times that I spend two or three straight weeks working from home.

Then there are times, like the Olympics or the Super Bowl, where I am on the road, away for several weeks at a time. It’s what I love most about my job - the variety. The craziness of my profession suites me just fine. I wouldn’t change a thing in my life. I’m extremely lucky.

■ Is there any way stress can be a source of creativity at work?

- That’s a great question. Absolutely. As crazy as it sounds, at times I create stress myself so that I can perform better. People close to me will tell you that if there is one thing that they would change about me, it would be the fact that I tend to procrastinate. It makes people around me crazy, but I work best under pressure and under stress.

I also love working live sporting events like the Super Bowl or The Olympics, when I know that millions of people around the world are watching and any little mistake will be seen by everyone. There is added pressure in those situations, and that pressure creates adrenaline, which in turn gets me energized.

So yes, stress in my life is actually a good thing.

Bizarre, I know.

■ The Super Bowl, the American football spectacle which usually breaks records in terms of viewing in the United States, is among the many major projects which you usually highlight in your interviews. What is it like to work on such a big project?

- It’s exciting beyond words. It’s the one time

when you know that everybody you know in the United States will see your work. There are typically over 100 million viewers in the U.S. alone that watch the game, and millions more internationally. I believe that only the World Cup Final has more viewers worldwide.

Of course it can be very stressful, but if you work in American television, it’s the top of the mountain. There is no bigger event or program to be a part of. And the great thing is if you can handle the Super Bowl, everything else after that seems easier.

■ American football is a typical American phenomenon. Why is it so popular in the States, whereas in Europe not only is it not popular but it is hardly known at all?

- There are many theories on why football is so popular - some think it’s the violent nature of the game that makes it popular. Others think that the way the game is played, with pauses in the action after every play, or every 30 seconds, that make it television-friendly and therefore popular. But I think it’s because it’s a uniquely American game. You look at the two most popular sports in America, football and baseball, and you’ll notice that those two sports were created in the United States and almost exclusively played there. I also believe it’s the same reason soccer’s popularity will never reach that level in the States. It’s just not American enough for the U.S. public. It’s a shame though, because soccer truly is a beautiful game.

■ Which is your favourite sport and why?

Do you actively practice any sports?

- I am from Zadar, so the answer is obviously basketball. I spent a year of high school in Zadar’s Gimnazija and I have fond memories of coming to games early and serving as the ballboy for local Zadar players like PopoviÊ, VrankoviÊ and PetranoviÊ, as well as visiting players like Dražen PetroviÊ, Arvydas Sabonis...

Also, I am almost 2 meters tall, so it was the natural sport for me. I hate fitness centers and have no patience for treadmills, so the only way I can stay in shape is by playing basketball three times a week.

■ What else in your career would you single out as special; something that you’ve done with a particular degree of joy?

- Perhaps the most prestigious television show in the United States is a program called, 60 Minutes. I have been watching it religiously since I was 11-years old and it is without question my favorite television program of all-time.

About two years ago, I was fortunate enough to be given an opportunity to produce a story for the iconic program. The experience was

mind numbing. Even though it was a news program, and not for our sports department, it was clearly the biggest moment of my career.

Since then, I have produced several other stories for them and continue to have a working relationship with 60 Minutes, which at times is still hard for me to believe.

Other than that, recently I produced a music video for our Super Bowl coverage with music icon, Jay-Z. I have worked on many projects with celebrities through the years; Prince, PDiddy, Harrison Ford, Samuel L. Jackson and many others, but this was one was different.

First, Jay-Z is one of my favorite artists of any kind. I’m a big fan of his music. Second, it was for the Super Bowl, so I knew that the stakes were high and everybody would see my work - good or bad. And lastly, Jay-Z was one of the coolest, most down-to-earth people I have ever met in my life. He single-handedly made it a great experience. He was patient, easy to work with and just a normal guy - which was very refreshing.

Finally, since I started working in television, it was always a dream of mine to combine my profession with my Croatian heritage and work on a project here, in Croatia. Last summer I was invited to the Libertas Film Festival in Dubrovnik to show one of my documentaries and since then many doors have opened for me in the Croatian media.

■ In your interviews you have often stated that sheer luck has determined your life. During college, a friend of yours randomly mentioned the possibility of doing an internship at NBC Sports, and that defined your future and the life you are living today. In your opinion, to what extent do young people play an active role in designing their future lives, as opposed to the sheer luck of the draw.

Is there any difference between Croatia and the States in that respect?

- Yes, there is a difference. That may simply be because there are 300 million people in the States as opposed to 4.5 million in Croatia. I’m not sure. But I do know that there is no substitute for hard work. When I started my internship it required that I come into the office one or two days a week. I showed up every day, five days a week, for five straight months. They couldn’t get rid of me. I loved being there and I felt that this was the biggest opportunity of my life. When my internship was over I was immediately offered a full-time job. I guess in some ways, you can make your own luck.

■ What characteristics would you say are crucial for a young person to have who is looking for himself in terms of a

professional path? What are the keys to success?

- Enjoy what you do. I know it sounds simple, but it’s not easy at times. I believe that if you choose a profession because you think it will make you rich, you will never be successful or happy. You must have a passion for what you are doing in order to be successful. My advice is to find something that you are enthusiastic about and do everything and anything you can to just get in the door. Once you’re there, regardless of the salary, you will eventually be successful because you will care about the product and want to work hard everyday. I consider what I do a profession not a job.

In other words, I don’t look at going to work as a task, but I take pride in what I do and actually look forward to going to work. In my mind, that is the biggest key to success pick a profession that you’ll have a passion for - regardless of the salary. Eventually the money will come.

■ Do you like to travel? Of all the countries and places you have visited, which have made a lasting impression on you?

- Traveling is probably the most exciting and rewarding part of my job. I have been everywhere, from The Samoan Islands to Korea, Australia to South Africa, and Hawaii to Ireland. Meeting people from all over the world and learning about their cultures and languages is an absolute treat and honor. But without question Zambia, more specifically, the Zambian people, made the most lasting impression on me.

It was my first trip to Africa and I was producing a story about a basketball program there, but it required that we go into the deepest, most remote areas of Zambia. To begin with, it is one of the poorest countries in the world and the AIDS epidemic has ravaged the country. Approximately 15% of the population is infected with HIV and the life expectancy for Zambians is roughly 39 years old.

But despite all this, they were the nicest and friendliest people I have ever met anywhere in the world. Everyone was pleasant and welcoming. And it seemed the deeper we traveled into the bush, and the poorer the villages, the nicer the people were. It was bizarre.

Our guide told us that my cameraman and I were the first white people that some of the children had ever seen. And that’s when I realized that these folks had never left their villages. They have lived in this remote area their entire lives. They have never seen a television or a computer. They didn’t know what a Mercedes or an iPhone was. They were lucky to eat once a day and had never been to a restaurant. But this was the exact

reason that they weren’t bitter. They didn’t know what they didn’t have. All they know is what is around them, and they were okay with that. Maybe life wasn’t great, but it was good enough.

After that trip my attitude changed dramatically. Since then I look at the problems in my life much differently. It was truly a life changing experience and gave me a new perspective on life.

■ Which places in Croatia would you recommend to your friends as the mustsee places to visit, and why?

- I hate to be obvious, but in this case, I can’t help it. Dubrovnik is without question the crown jewel of Croatia. It’s stunning, historic and picturesque with plenty of great restaurants and friendly locals. It is a must-see for anybody visiting Croatia. But other than that, I would strongly recommend visiting the islands, both big and small. The obvious big ones that most people like to visit are KorËula, Hvar and BraË. But I personally prefer some of the lesser known islands, like Lastovo, Rab and Vis. Then for the adventurous types, I would strongly recommend visiting some of the really small hidden-jewel islands that most foreigners wouldn’t find prominently featured in tourist guide books - islands like Kaprije, Pašman and Zverinac. On these islands you’ll find peace and quiet, but also find that life is not geared toward tourism, the locals are more focused on everyday Croatian life. It’s what appeals to me most about these quaint, serene islands - the fact that you don’t feel like you’re entering a tourist trap, but visiting another world from an earlier time. And if you get to the island of Pašman, stop by the town of Neviane. Once you’re there maybe I’ll buy you a drink.

■ Are you one of those people who enjoy flying? How do you pass the time on long haul fl ights, for example, between the States and Croatia?

- With the exception of dealing with security lines, I do enjoy flying - very much so. I’ve always said that some, if not most, of my best ideas have come while I was sitting on an airplane listening to my iPod. I’m not sure why that is. Whether it’s the peacefulness of a long flight or if it’s lack of distractions, like text messages and phone calls. But for whatever reason, whether I’m listening to Green Day and the Foo Fighters, or Oliver DragojeviÊ and Gibonni, I am most at ease and most productive while sitting on airplane listening to my favorite music. And of all the flights I take, nothing beats the landing approach into Zagreb Airport, knowing that I’m headed to several weeks of sun and relaxation.

■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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HRVATSKA Republika

To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËne obale Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do Panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2001. godine, 4,437.460 ljudi. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima.

CROATIA Republic of

National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet).

Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contribu-

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Izravne domaÊe linije Direct domestic routes Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines’ destinations stalne / regular sezonske zimske / seasonal in winter

............................................

Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka.

Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica - kuna.

Glavni je grad Zagreb (779.145 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje.

Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. prosinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine.

This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. By the 2001 census, Croatia’s population is 4,437,460. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs.

There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited.

The official language is Croatian, and the official script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna.

The capital is Zagreb (779,145 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center.

The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992.

Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih zajedno Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova.

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ted to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima iz svih razdoblja, zbog burnih povijesnih zbivanja i preplitanja utjecaja razliËitih kultura.

Njezinu obalu karakteriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakralna baπtina, te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina.

Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeuropskoga kulturnog kruga i istiËe se mnogim prapovijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka i kulturnim spomenicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka.

Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku.

Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine.

A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of influences of different cultures. Its coast is characterized by the influences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monuments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous

prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era.

Three Croatian cities and two monumental com-plexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik.

The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina - ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari - najveÊe turistiËko iznenaenje te hit odrediπte na Sredozemlju.

Niz uspjeπnih godina nastavlja se ∑ suglasni su analitiËari turistiËkih prilika ∑ i u 20&&. godini.

Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska je turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, u priobalju te u kontinentalnom dijelu zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u

2010. godini posjetilo oko 11 milijuna turista od kojih je inozemnih bilo oko 9,4 milijuna.

Ostvareno je ukupno oko 56,4 milijuna noÊenja.

Pritom je broj inozemnih noÊenja bio oko 50,7 milijuna. Tradicionalno najbrojniji gosti, Nijemci, prvo su mjesto zadræali i u 2010. godini (22,5 %), a njih slijede gosti iz Slovenije (11,5 %), Italije (9,3 %), Austrije (8,7 %), »eπke (8,2 %), Poljske (5,7 %), Nizozemske (4,4 %)...

Hoteli, turistiËka naselja, kampovi i sve druge vrste smjeπtaja, kao i moderni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim turistiËkim standardima. Bogata kulturna ponuda, wellness ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, mnogi kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih staza ili pak vinske staze, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledavanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti ili pak pravi spoj doæivljaja i avanturizma poveÊavaju adrenalin...

Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog njezine geografske bli zine, ne go i zbog mreæe zraË nih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa, kao i drugih zraËnih pri jevozni ka. Na te me lju mreæe au to ce sta i poluautocesta, Hrvatska je i cestom bliæa nego ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajek tom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe - i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji - manje od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od svakodnevice miljama i miljama daleko...

Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has been a hit destination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international experts in tourism.

Tourist analysts are agre ed that a series of successful years is due to continue in 201&.

According to data provided by the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, Croatian tourist destinations on the islands, coast and in the interior, including the capital Zagreb 201% were visited by nearly 11 million tourists, of whom 9.4 million were foreign guests.

The total number of overnight stays was more than 56.4 million, of which foreign visitors accounted for 50.7 million. The largest number of foreign guests came from Germany (22,5 %), followed by Slove nia (11,5 %), Italy (9,3 %), Austria (8,7 %), the Czech Republic (8,2 %), Poland (5,7 %) the Netherlands (4,4 %)...

Hotels, tourist sites, camps and other types of accommodation, as well as modern nautical centers, are equipped in line with international tourism standards. There is a rich cultural of fer, together with wellness, spor ts, recreational and enter tainment facilities, many kilometers of

well-kept footpaths or wine roads, excursions including sight-seeing of natural and cultural treasures, or the right combination of experience and adventure to raise the adrenalin level...

Croatia is close by, not just geographically, but thanks to its airport network and the high-quality ser vice of its national air company, Croatia Airlines, besides other air companies. The network of newly built freeways and semi-freeways means that Croatia is easier to reach by road than ever. If you have chosen to spend your vacation on one of Croatia’s many islands, the crossing by ferry or hydrofoil boat will take you ∑ even for the most remote islands ∑ less than two hours. Yet their beauty and the immediate contact with virgin nature will be unforgettable, as if you were miles and miles away from the ever yday world...

Novac i naËin plaÊanja Kuna (kn) je naziv novËane jedinice Republike Hrvatske.

U optjecaju su novËanice kuna i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp) ∑ stoti dio kune. NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima - 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac - 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima.

Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Kuna (kn).

In circulation are banknotes in Kuna and coins in Kuna and Lipa (lp) ∑ one hundredth of a Kuna.

The banknotes are issued in the following denominations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Kuna, while the denomination structure of the coins is 1, 2 and 5 Kuna and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Lipa (100 Lipa = 1 Kuna). Payments can be made by credit card (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard and Mastercard), as well as euro-checks. Cash can be withdrawn from ATMs.

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■ BAŠTINA HERITAGE

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Piše/By Goran StojanoviÊ

Rezidencije, ljetnikovci i vile dio

Fotografije/Photos Æeljko TutnjeviÊ

su ladanjske arhitekture πto izriËe sebe sobom; u njoj se zrcali odnos vlasnika prema okoliπu, socijalnom

Pred umjetninu treba stati kao pred vladara i Ëekati da nas on prvi oslovi, kako ne bismo Ëuli samo svoj glas.

Arthur Schopenhauer (1788.-1860.)

Treat a work of art like a prince.

Let it speak to you first to avoid hearing only your own voice.

Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

okruæju, krajoliku, vodi, suncu i zvjezdanu nebu. Ulaskom u unutraπnjost tih graevina poËinje se doæivljavati interijer s priËama o vlasnicima i njihovim uvjerenjima,

vaka graevina prepoznatljivo iskazuje znakove svoje prolaznosti ili vjeËnosti. Arhitektura koja teæi vjeËnosti, iako je u konaËnici prolazna, monumentalnoπÊu iskazuje teænju bezvremenosti, a oblikom istiËe poruku misije i sluæbe: profane, sakralne ili fortifi kacijske.

Rezidencije, ljetnikovci i vile dio su ladanjske arhitekture, koja izrasta u slikovitim krajolicima, podatnih oku i namjeni.

DubrovaËki ljetnikovac Petra SorkoËeviÊa (Pietro de Sorgo) na lapadskoj obali gruπkog zaljeva skladnih je proporcija. Bijelokamena umjetnina okruæena je gustom mediteranskom πumom, iz koje kao da je zakoraËila prema moru i njegovoj obali i svakako iskaz je umjetniËke snage ladanjske arhitekture koja dominira svojom poloæajem - Ëasno, bez pretjerano iskazana ponosa. Ta umjetniËka cjelina jedna je od najstarijih i u cjelini oËuvanih postojeÊih povijesnih dubrovaËkih ladanjskih sklopova.

Osjetiti prostor okom, osjeÊajem i nutrinom svog biÊa, nuænost je bez kojih priËa ostaje nedovrπena, do kraja neispriËana, zakinuta detaljima koji tvore cjelinu. Zato se treba osvrnuti na vremenski, prostorni i socijalni okvir u kojemu je umjetnina nastala.

Razdoblje renesanse u kojemu je ljetnikovac sagraen, trostoljetno je povijesno i preporodno doba, vrijeme u kojemu su europski prostori æivjeli svoju kreativnost s poletom osloboenim od dogmatskih koËnica sred-

S

njeg vijeka. U to vrijeme filozofija, knjiæevnost, likovna umjetnost i znanost izraæavale su svoje potisnute Ëeænje u svoj najviπi iskaz - slobodu izraæaja.

U drugoj polovici 14. stoljeÊa, u vrijeme kad se renesansa tek budila u Italiji, Dubrovnik je, osloboen od Mletaka te kasnijom smrÊu hrvatsko-ugarskog kralja Ludovika I. 1380. godine, stekao sve atribute dræavnosti te iz komune stasao u patricijsko aristrokratsku republiku poznatu po trgovaËkoj umjeπnosti, diplomatskim umijeÊima te pomorstvu.

Prema navodima Nenada VekariÊa (Vlastela grada Dubrovnika; HAZU, 2011.) tadaπnja Respublica Ragusina u poËetku navedenog stoljeÊa, joπ kao komuna, imala je stalnu lijeËniËku sluæbu, kovala je novac u vlastitoj kovnici, te gradila veliki fortifikacijski kompleks izvan grada - zidine s dva nova naselja, Ston i Mali Ston sa 150 kuÊa.

U poËetku 15. stoljeÊa DubrovaËka Republika zakoraËila je u svoje zlatno doba, u svoj najsnaæniji gospodarski, politiËki i kulturni uspon.

S viπe od dvadeset konzulata u Italiji i Malti te snaænom posredniËkom trgovinom, razvijenim domaÊim obrtima i manufakturama, s urbanizmom u kojemu viπe nije bilo drvenih kuÊa, nego samo kamenih, sa sagraenim - prema projektu Onofrija de la Cave, 1438. godine javnim vodovodom, utemeljenom ljekarnom, javnom πkolom, nahodiπtem za djecu, Republika je iskazivala svoju gospodarsku snagu s jasnom vizijom daljnjeg razvoja.

æudnjama, bogatstvu, isticanjima ili skromnosti, o πirini zanimanja i dræanju spram svijeta i Boga. I priËa o dubrovaËkom ljetnikovcu Petra SorkoËeviÊa na Lapadu upravo je takva.

Residences, summer houses and summer villas are part of the countryside architecture which expresses itself by itself; it mirrors the owner’s attitude towards their surroundings, social environment, landscape, water, sun and the star-studded sky. When you enter these buildings you start to experience their interiors with the stories of their owners and their beliefs, longings, wealth, ostentation or modesty; of the breadth of their interests and attitudes towards the world and God. The story about the Dubrovnik summer villa of Petar SorkoËeviÊ in Lapad is precisely that.

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Sjaj obilja prelio se i u 16. stoljeÊe, kad je razvijena pomorska flota DubrovaËke Republike, s dvjestotinjak velikih trgovaËkih brodova i oko 4000 zaposlenih pomoraca, plovila svim svjetskim morima i trgovala s mnogim dræavama. Tada je dubrovaËka karaka doplovila do upravo otkrivene Sjeverne Amerike, a u Indiji je dubrovaËka kolonija, na obalama Goe, 1541. godine podigla i crkvu sv. Vlahe, svog zaπtitnika i parca, koja joπ i danas sluæi zajednici.

Materijalno jaËanje Republike i njezina stanovniπtva odraæavalo se i na sve veÊu kvalitetu æivljenja i izgled grada, ali i svih prostora pod patronatom Republike. U tom vremenu, kad je izvangradski prostor postao siguran, a æivot u njemu spokojan, nicali su mnogobrojni dubrovaËki ljetnikovci u primorskom pojasu i na prikladnim poloæajima Republike, od Cavtata do Peljeπca, posebice na bliæim gradskim podruËjima, uklopljeni u osobito lijep krajolik ladanjske kulture. Sagraeno ih je dvjestotinjak, a vlasnicima su pruæali prostor ugode, ljepote i odmora od buËnoga trgovaËkoga grada i njegovih zbijenih i uskih viπekatnica. O njihovu izgledu, ureenosti i vrtnoarhitektonskoj strukturi izvijestili su nas mnogi opisi posjetitelja i suvremenika koji su u njima boravili. Ti ladanjski objekti iskazivali su jedinstvo arhitekture, vrtova i krajolika, a iz ukorijenjenosti u prirodne krajolike izdizala se njihova funkcija, usmjerena humanistiËkim mislima i kulturi.

Po smjeπtaju, rasporedu i raskoπi, na izboËini lapadske obale, prislonjen uz blagu padinu breæuljka Gimen, osobito je lijep prijelazno gotiËko-renesansni ladanjski sklop Petra SorkoËeviÊa. Njegov vlasnik bio je Ëlan jednoga od najveÊih vlastelinskih, rodova Sorga ili SorkoËeviÊa, koji se veÊ od dvanaestog stoljeÊa istiËu meu dubrovaËkom aristokracijom, kao okretni trgovci solju, vinom, uljem, tkaninama i koæom, a ugled i veliki imetak stekli su razgranatim trgovaËkim vezama.

Kao patriciji, obitelj SorkoËeviÊ obavljala je znaËajne druπtvene i upravne duænosti u Republici. Bili su Ëlanovi Velikoga, Maloga i VijeÊa umoljenih, knezovi, suci i nadglednici carinarnice, poklisari, diplomati i trgovci.

Petar (Pietro de Sorgo) rodio se 1472. godine, a veÊ kao mladiÊ, u dobi od dvadeset i jednog ljeta, bio je djelatan i u Velikom vijeÊu Republike. U zrelim godinama postigao je najveÊu Ëast u domovini - Ëetiri puta biran je za kneza Republike, a tijekom æivota obnaπao je mnoge znaËajne i visoke dræavne duænosti. Prije gradnje svog ljetnikovca upoznao je graditeljstvo i poznavao graditelje, jer, izmeu ostalih nadzornih poslova koji su mu dodijeljeni, bio je i onaj koji se odnosio na javne radove 18

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u Republici. Meu ostalima bio je ovlaπten da u ime dubrovaËke vlade sklapa ugovor s darovitim Petrom AndrijiÊem, korËulanskim graditeljem za gradnju proËelja crkve Spasa, koja je 1520. godine i bila diskretno uklopljena u gradsku sredinu.

Na mjestu gradnje svog ljetnikovca 1514. godine, Petar je veÊ posjedovao ribnjak povezan s morem, koji je dovrπetkom gradnje postao dio vrtnoarhitektonske cjeline ladanjskog posjeda, jedini koji se kao vodeno zrcalo do danas oËuvao u nekome od starih dubrovaËkih ladanjskih zdanja, a i dalje oËarava svakog posjetitelja. Ribnjaci su u to vrijeme bili poznati u Dalmaciji, a najljepπi meu njima bio je onaj hvarski, Petra HektoroviÊa u njegovu Tvrdlju, koji je takoer graen u prvoj polovici 16. stoljeÊa.

Petar je, s istanËanim osjeÊajem za lijepo, mudro izabrao za svoj novi ljetnikovac ispruæeni i πumoviti zavoj uz morsku obalu, s divnim pogledom na zaljev, u osoju, na vjetrovitu i ljeti ugodnu poloæaju. Godine 1518. vlasnik sklapa ugovor s Petrom PetroviÊem, s kojim je ugovorio izradu lukova, stupova, obiteljskih grbova i Ëesme koja Êe biti uklopljena u trijem. S klesarom CvjetkoviÊem utanaËuje pripremu za gradnju. Nakon nagle PetroviÊeve smrti, izvedbu trijema preuzima Silvije AntunoviÊ. Ljetnikovac je dovrπen 1521. godine poπto je podignut na drveni temelj, s arhitektonskim ladanjskim vrtnim okruæjem te ograenim zidom.

U prikazu ljetnikovca, koji je objavio povjesniËar umjetnosti, konzervator i akademik Cvito FiskoviÊ, SorkoËeviÊev ljetnikovac na Lapadu (JAZU, Zagreb 1982.), pomno se iskazuje mnogo Ëinjenica koje do detalja opisuju ljetnikovac, njegov sklop i povijest. Tako FiskoviÊ navodi da je ovaj ljetnikovac, bez obzira na stilske pozajmice pojedinosti, po svom tlocrtnom rasporedu i oblikovanju svog prostora, okupljanjem svojih dijelova i povezivanjem razine zemljiπta izvorno djelo. Nije, dakle, kao ni ostali dubrovaËki gotiËko-renesansni ljetnikovci, kopija stranog, veÊ dostignuÊe viπestoljetnog uspona domaÊeg primorskog, a osobito dubrovaËkog graditeljstva...Sudjelovanje stranih graditelja i kipara u SorkoËeviÊevom graevnom sklopu nakon pregleda njegovih pojedinosti...nije primjetljivo. Sva ta arhivska graa nepobitno svjedoËi da su ih zidali domaÊi majstori, ponajviπe dubrovaËki i korËulanski graditelji i klesari...Sagradio ga je u stilu domaÊih ljetnikovaca ostale vlastele, ne pribjegavavπi tuim graevinskim uzorima ni novotarijama, kojima konzervativni DubrovËani ne bjahu skloni i zbog veÊih novËanih izdataka, pa nisu rado prihvaÊali tue majstore, jer oni bjahu skupi, a ukoliko su ih i pozivali i zadræava-

li, upotrebljavali su ih za vaænije graevinske poslove: za tvravne sklopove, utvrde i zidine, u kojima nisu smjeli zaostati za suvremenim obrambenim zdanjima.

SorkoËeviÊev ljetnikovac na Lapadu, kao i svi ostali dubrovaËki ljetnikovci, nisu pokazivali samo Ëeænju za iskazivanjem druπtveme moÊi i ugleda. Poredak vidljivih stvari na njima podreen je Ëistim elementima dana i okrunjen suncem kao vrhovnim fenomenom, kako je to rekao poznati francuski pjesnik i esejist Paul Valéry.

Petar SorkoËeviÊ umro je 1535. godine, u πezdeset i treÊem ljetu, a svu svoju imovinu ostavlja sinu Pasku, kako bi on mogao uæivati sve nasljeeno imanje u naprednom stanju naπe domovine. Paskoje, ugledan na oca, nastavlja oËevim stopama. Utjecajan meu vlastelom, triput je bio knez, uz mnoge druge odgovorne duænosti koje mu je povjeravala vlada Republike. VeÊ je kao punoljetan mladiÊ doæivio gradnju oËeva ljetnikovca, pa ga je kao jedini nasljednik s ponosom usavrπavao.

Ljetnikovcu se moæe priÊi dvojim vratima, juænima i sjevernima. Juæna su skromna, vr tna, s malim renesansnim ulazom, a sjeverna reprezentativna vrata, kroz trijem, koji je jednim krakom podvuËen u prizemlje volumena zgrade te pruæaju oËaravajuÊi pogled na veliËanstveni ambijent vrta s ribnjakom. »arobnost vrta iskazuje se prostranim hortikulturalnim krajolikom, koji je po visini razdijeljen u tri nivoa. Dvoriπni trijem najraskoπniji je graevni dio Ëitavog sklopa.

Taj prostor poput antiËkih i rimskih kuÊa tek iznutra otkriva prikrivenu raskoπ, koja se preko ogradnih zidova tek nasluÊuje. Ti visoki zidovi ladanjski sklop πtite od vjetra, ali i od vanjskih pogleda, πto uvelike pridonosi intimnosti svih prostora Sorgova ljetnikovca - prozraËne jednokatnice s loæom, orsanom, kapelom, vrtom s perivojima i ribnjakom.

Unutraπnjost vrtnog prostora moæe doËarati i dio putopisnog dojma mletaËkog putopisca Benedetta Rambertija 1530. godine, koji je opisao Gruæ, kad je veÊ bio sagraen i Sorgov ljetnikovac, kao mjesto u kojemu su veoma lijepe i otmjene zgrade s perivojima punim slatkih naranaËa, limuna, cedera i voÊaka razliËite vrste, s prekrasno izraenim Ëesmama, snabdjevenim vodopadima.

DubrovËane su u ta vremena, joπ od djetinjstva, bili poduËavali o uzgoju perivoja. Njihovi uËitelji davali su im i pismene zadatake opisivanja vrtova, a odgajani su da i sami znaju regulirati strma i mrπava zemljiπta, hraneÊi ih plodnom zemljom iz juæne Italije, koju su dubrovaËki brodovi donosili sa svojih putovanja, povratkom u matiËnu luku.

Na SorkoËeviÊevu ljetnikovcu, kao i na drugim

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dubrovaËkim ljetnikovcima, nije bilo straæarnica niti otvora za puπke i strijelnice. Ta pojava neutvrenog ljetnikovca u 15. i 16. stoljeÊu, iako su mnogi od njih bili na osami, iskazuje stav dubrovaËke aristokracije uvjerene u dugotrajan mir i izvan gradskih zidina, na svojim selima i moru. Talijanski pedagog, upravitelj dubrovaËke πkole Filip de Diversis, napisao je sredinom 15. stoljeÊa: Kao najizvrsniji od svih obiËaja dubrovaËke Vlade istiËem napokon i to... πto DubrovËani svojom brigom i svim marom paze da sa svima odræe mir i slogu... pa koliko god mogu, nastoje razboritoπÊu, novcem i strpljivoπÊu izbjegnuti sukobe i rat. »itav ladanjski sklop ljetnikovca razraen je i zaigran. GledajuÊi njegov tlocrt, zapaæaju se njegove razliËite funkcije, cjeline, estetski i sadræajno skladno povezane. HodajuÊi njegovim prostorima, unutraπnja ambijentalnost posjetitelja vodi u doæivljaje svakoga njegova dijela ali i njegove osobite cjelovitosti koja priËu iskazuje sasvim osobito; sporo ili ubrzano, ovisno o tome gdje se posjetitelj nalazi, πto doæivljava, kako reagira na osebujnost vienoga. DomaÊini i gosti mogli su se u njemu okupljati bez meusobnih smetnji i uæivati u vrtovima i perivojima u hladu kroπnji, u strujanjima πumskoga i morskog zraka, u divnim ambijentima samog ljetnikovca, u dvorani, loi ili kapelici kad su se æeljeli u miru pomoliti.

Prizemlje ljetnikovca otvara se u prostrani salonski atrij okruæen trima prostorijama, dvjema sobama i jednom uskom prostorijom, po FiskoviÊevu naslutu, bivπom kupaonicom, danaπnjom vratarnicom, te stubiπtem za kat: kamenim, strmim i uskim, kao u veÊini dubrovaËkih ljetnikovaca.

Nakon uspona iz prizemlja, ulazi se u veliku dvoranu prvoga kata: elegantnu, prostranu i prozraËnu, osvijetljenu kroz gotiËke prozore s viπestrukim lukovima te ograenu vitkom gotiËko-renesansnom ogradom kamenih stupiÊa. Taj sveËani prostor natkriva drveni gredni strop poduprt kamenim konzolama.

U dvorani se nalazi i pripadajuÊi kameni namjeπtaj, zidni ormar i umivaonik te plitki renesansni kamin, πto je znak da je ovaj prostor bio na usluzi domaÊinima i njihovim gostima i u zimska doba.

Dvoranu okruæuju s njezina boka Ëetiri sobe, a kroz triforu sa srediπnjim vratima izlazi se na otvorenu loæu kata sjevernog krila, poloæenu na nadsvoeni arsenal, tzv. orsan, za sklon Ëamaca kojim se ribalo, izletniËki plovilo i posjeÊivalo prijatelje u susjednim ljetnikovcima, s kojega se pruæa prekrasan pogled na gruπki zaljev, idealizirano oblikovan vrt, ogledni ribnjak i nebo. S druge strane dvorane izlazi se na drugu loæu, poluzatvorenu, koja izgledom 20

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te stubama πto se spuπtaju u pozadinski vrt s obiteljskom kapelicom i perivojnim krajolikom, potvruje da je krajobraz stanje duπe, dostupan svijetu raspoloæive prirode koja podræava Ëovjekovu potrebu da bude dio nje, blizu nje i s njom.

Loæa je rastvorena πirokim renesansnim lukovima, a prozraËnoπÊu vjeπto uklopljena i prisno povezana s kuÊom. Prisnost je ostvarila i otvorenoπÊu srediπnje dvorane sjevernog krila, iz koje se kroz πiroke lukove vide vrtne terase i bujno zelenilo Lapada. U toj prisnosti i vrlo dobroj povezanosti svih prostora s krajolikom, postignut je cilj - zdruæenost zdanja s prirodom. U loæi se nalazi osmerostrani kameni gotiËki stol, uobiËajen u dubrovaËkim perivojima, zatim zdenac i zidni umivaonik s lavljom maskom. Zid na istoËnom djelu loæe rese umjetniËki koloriti stasitih Rimljanki, ali i udubina koju ispunjava potpuna praznina i natpis na tablici ispod nje: IGNOTO DEO -Nepoznatom Bogu, kao znaËajan izriËaj metafiziËkog odnosa prema inteligenciji svemira te poπtivanju svih posjetitelja i njihovih vjera, koji su ljetnikovac stoljeÊima pohaali.

U velikoj, tzv. Neptunovoj sobi, s ulazom iz zapadnog dijela loæe, osvijetljene vitkim gotiËkim prozorima, nalazi se drveni strop, na kojemu su grede i daske oslikane alegorijskim prizorima iz Neptunova æivota, ispunjene radoπÊu sirena i dupina, voluta i cvijeÊa. Nasljednik ljetnikovca SorkoËeviÊa, Marinica Nikolin ÐureviÊ (Giorgi), dubrovaËki rodoljub koji se u Dalmatinskom saboru zalagao za sjedinjenje Dalmacije s Hrvatskom, povjerio je potkraj 19. stoljeÊa popravak stropa mletaËkom slikaru Vicenzu Faggiottu.

U podnoæju stuba nalazi se veÊ spomenuti mali perivoj, ograen zidom i okruæen poploËenim puteljcima. U njemu je svoje mjesto naπla i crkvica, koju je s oltara nekad krasila slika sv. Kriæa, kojem je kapelica i bila posveÊena, nestala u burnim zbivanjima nadolazeÊe povijesti. Danas je u njoj najveÊi kip zaπtitnika Dubrovnika, sveca Vlahe, djelo najistaknutijega kasnogotiËkog kipara Jurja Dalmatinca, klesano davne 1464. godine.

Nije poznato koliko je ljetnikovac bio oπteÊen u razornom potresu πto je zadesio Dubrovnik 6. travnja 1667. godine, pretvorivπi Grad u ruπevine s poæarima dramatiËnih razmjera, u kojemu je poginulo i oko 42 posto ukupnog broja stanovniπtva. Na popisu poginule vlastele nalazili su se i mnogi Ëlanovi obitelji Sorgo, njih najmanje osamnaest, koji su takoer ostavili æivot u toj katastrofalnoj nesreÊi. Dubrovnik se nakon potresa godinama oporavljao uz velike diplomatske napore svojih uglednika, traæeÊi meunarodnu materijalnu, struËnu i vojnu pomoÊ. U isto vrijeme puk je

poærtvovno graevinski obnavljao poruπena zdanja.

Tijekom 17., 18. i prve polovice 19. stoljeÊa, po navodima Cvite FiskoviÊa, nema podataka o æivotu u SorkoËeviÊevu ljetnikovcu. Navodno je ponovno dotjeran i zasjao u 18. stoljeÊu kad ga je od SorkoËeviÊa naslijedila veÊ spomenuta obitelj –ureviÊ te kad se druπtveni æivot u Dubrovniku obnovio. Potkraj 18. stoljeÊa, joπ je jedino DubrovaËka Republika bila neutralna dræava na Sredozemlju, s 85 konzulata πirom svijeta, 350 brodova i jakim graevinarstvom razvijenim nakon velikog potresa 1667. godine.

Ljetnikovac je preæivio i pad DubrovaËke Republike, u prvoj polovici 19. stoljeÊa ulaskom Napoleonove vojske u Grad. Obitelj –ureviÊ tada je veÊ uvelike osiromaπila, πto se odrazilo i na ureenost ljetnikovca.

Tijekom ratnih i poratnih zbivanja 20. stoljeÊa Sorgovo ladanjsko zdanje strpljivo je Ëekalo neke bolje dane. Godine 1949. ljetnikovac se dodjeluje Zavodu za povijesne znanosti JAZU (danaπnje Hrvatske akademije znanosti i umjetnosti), koji ga je restaurirao u poËetku pedesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa. U prostoru ljetnikovca Petra SorkoËeviÊa na Lapadu sada se izuËava povijest Dubrovnika i DubrovaËke Republike.

A u zakljuËku ogleda o Sorgovu ladanjskom slogu, u knjizi Omjeri i znakovi (Matica Hrvatska, Dubrovnik, 1996.) teoretiËar povijesti umjetnosti Mladen PejakoviÊ napisao je: Neπto je melodiËno u tom ljetnikovcu. NaroËita harmoniËnost razlikuje ga i odlikuje meu dubrovaËkim ladanjskim vilama kao izuzetnu pojavu. Nikada vien do kraja iz jedne vizure, ovaj ljetnikovac zahtijeva da se promotri iz svih moguÊih motriliπta. On ima mnogo lica. Da li tako disponiran posjeduje glavnu fasadu ili je naroËit po svojoj intringantnoj namjeri da nas iznova iznenadi, lecne, da nas ukroti i ublaæi novim prozorima u novom vidiku, novom scenom u novom okviru? Teπko nam je doduπe zamisliti sve moguÊe veze i pokrete ljudi u vrijeme kada je æivio svoj puni æivot u danu i godini. Bez sumnje, to je bio polivalentni instrument æivota: vidik na blagost bogova. n very building recognizably expresses signs of its transience or perpetuity.

The architecture which strives towards eternity, although ultimately ephemeral, expresses its propensity towards timelessness with its monumentality, while with its form it conveys a message of its mission and use: secular, sacral or defensive. Residences, summer houses and summer villas are part of the countryside architecture which develops

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in a picturesque landscape, pliable to the eye and purpose.

Petar SorkoËeviÊ’s (Pietro de Sorgo’s) summer villa in Dubrovnik on the Lapad side of Gruæ Bay is of harmonious proportions. This white-stone work of art is surrounded by a thick Mediterranean forest, wherefrom it appears as if it is taking a step towards the sea and its shores. This is definitely an expression of artistic power inherent to countryside architecture which dominates with its position: honourably, without an excessive show of pride. This artistic complex is one of the oldest completely preserved historical countryside estates still in existence in Dubrovnik.

Feeling a space with your eyes, senses and inner being is a must, without which the story will remain incomplete, unfinished, robbed of the details that make up a whole. That is why one must take into account the temporal, geographical and social framework within which a work of art was created.

The summer villa was built during the Renaissance period, a historical and Renaissance era that spanned three centuries; a time when people all over Europe embraced their creativity with enthusiasm, feeling liberated from the dogmatic restraints of the Middle Ages.

Philosophy, literature, fine arts and science articulated their suppressed longings and transformed them into the highest possible declaration - freedom of expression.

In the second half of the 14th century, the Renaissance was just waking up in Italy.

Dubrovnik had freed itself from the grip of Venice; the Croatian - Hungarian king Louis the Great died, and the two developments allowed the city to acquire all the attributes of statehood in 1380. A mere commune until then, Dubrovnik became a patrician aristocratic republic famous for its trading skills, diplomatic astuteness and seafaring.

According to Nenad VekariÊ (The Aristocracy of the City of Dubrovnik; HAZU, 2011), the then Respublica Ragusina, still a commune at the beginning of the century, had a permanent medical service; it minted coins in its own mint; it was heavily involved in the process of building a large fortification complex outside of the city - walls which surrounded two new settlements, Ston and Mali Ston, with 150 houses between them.

The early 15th century was the beginning of a golden age for the Republic of Dubrovnik, a period during which it experienced a most powerful economic, political and cultural surge. With over twenty consulates in Italy and Malta, strong trade relationships, well developed local crafts and manufactures, strong urbanism whereby wooden houses had 22

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completely disappeared and stone houses replaced them, with public waterworks developed based on Onofrio de la Cava’s designs in 1438, an incepted pharmacy, a public school and an orphanage; the Republic brandished its economic strength with a clear vision of its future development.

The grandeur of opulence spilled over into the 16th century, when the maritime fleet of the Republic of Dubrovnik was incepted and went on to employ over 4,000 seamen who sailed the seas of the world and traded with many states. It was a time when karaka sailed from Dubrovnik all the way to the barely discovered North America and a Dubrovnik colony in India built a church dedicated to St. Blaise, their patron saint, on the shores of Goa. The church which was built in 1541 still serves the community.

The Republic’s economic growth and the financial prosperity of its citizens had a tremendous impact on the quality of life and the appearance of not only the city but also of all the other areas under the patronage of the Republic. Life in the country became safe and offered a prospect of peaceful rural living which is what prompted the nobility of Dubrovnik to start building their summer villas along the coast, in auspicious positions around the entire Republic, from Cavtat to Peljeπac, especially in areas close to towns, where the new edifices fitted perfectly within the remarkably beautiful atmosphere of the countryside leisure culture. Some two hundred villas that were built offered their owners comfort, beauty and a break from the hustle and bustle of the merchant town and its closely built narrow multi-storey houses. Descriptions proffered by a number of visitors and contemporaries who stayed in them speak of their appearance, elegance and garden architecture. These countryside houses all boasted a harmonious blend of architecture, gardens and landscapes; their inveterateness in natural landscapes gave rise to their function, directed towards humanistic thoughts and culture.

Particularly beautiful in terms of location, layout and opulence is the rural complex of Petar SorkoËeviÊ, built in a transitional Gothic-Renaissance style on a promontory on the Lapad coast, leaning against the gentle slopes of Gimen hill. Its owner was a member of one of the greatest noble families, Sorgo or SorkoËeviÊ. As of the 12th century, the family gained prominence among the aristocracy of Dubrovnik as adroit traders in salt, wine, oil, fabrics and leather. They achieved a fine reputation and amassed a great wealth through their well-developed trade connections. As

patricians, the SorkoËeviÊ family members preformed important social and administrative roles in the Republic. They were members of the Grand Council, the Small Council and the Senate; they were rectors and judges, customs overseers, ambassadors, diplomats and merchants.

Petar (Pietro de Sorgo) was born in 1472. Even as a young man, at the tender age of 21, he was already active in the Grand Council of the Republic. At a more mature age he achieved the greatest honour his homeland could bestow upon a man: he was elected rector of the Republic as many as four times. Throughout his lifetime he held many important and prominent state offices. Even before he embarked on the construction of his summer villa, he was already familiar with the building craft and builders because he had been heavily involved with public works in the Republic as a result of the many overseeing duties conferred upon him. Amongst other things, the government of Dubrovnik had authorized him to sign a building contract with the talented builder from KorËula, Petar AndrijiÊ, for the façade of the church of St. Spas which was discreetly incorporated into the urban area in 1520.

In 1514, Petar had a fish pond which was connected with the sea at the place where he would build his summer villa. When the building of the villa was completed, the pond became a part of the garden architecture of the countryside estate, the only one of its kind that has been preserved in any of Dubrovnik’s rural complexes. Resembling a water mirror, it still mesmerizes every visitor. At that time fish ponds were a familiar sight in Dalmatia. The most striking among them was the one on the island of Hvar in Petar HektoroviÊ’s castle Tvrdalj, also constructed in the first half of the 16th century.

Petar’s refined sense of elegance gave him the wisdom to choose a beautiful spot for his new summer house: an elongated forested bend by the sea that commands a wonderful view of the bay; its windy location makes it a pleasant place to live in the summer. In 1518, the owner signed a contract with Petar PetroviÊ to design and construct arches, columns, the family’s coats-of-arms and a well which would be incorporated into the portico. The stone mason CvjetkoviÊ was the master chosen to do the ground works for the building. PetroviÊ died suddenly and his commission for the building of the portico was taken over by Silvije AntunoviÊ. The villa was completed in 1521 on wooden foundations with a landscaped countryside garden and a surrounding wall.

Art historian, conservationist and academician Cvito FiskoviÊ’s overview of the villa entitled

SorkoËeviÊ’s Summer Villa in Lapad (JAZU, Zagreb 1982), offers a collection of facts which describes the villa both in detail and as a whole complex, as well as its history. Thus, FiskoviÊ states that in terms of the layout and design of the space, the arrangement of its parts and the way the different ground levels have been linked together, this summer villa is an original work irrespective of the fact that some of the style elements were clearly borrowed. In other words, it is not a copy of something foreign, just like none of the other Gothic Renaissance summer villas are, but rather the pinnacle of the local building craft that had been developing on the coast for centuries, and especially in Dubrovnik. Not even a scrupulous inspection of the details reveals that foreign builders and sculptors were involved in the design and construction of SorkoËeviÊ’s architectural complex. The archival materials irrefutably confirm that it was built by local builders and masons, predominantly those from Dubrovnik and KorËula. The owner had it built much in the style of other local aristocratic families’ summer villas without resorting to foreign architectural models or novelties; the conservative citizens of Dubrovnik were quite indisposed to those because of the higher costs, amongst other reasons. They were not ready to embrace foreign masters simply because they were expensive. If they did invite and hire them, they used their services only for major construction works: fortification complexes, fortresses and defence walls - an area where they could not risk lagging behind the contemporary defence structures.

Just like all the other countryside estates in Dubrovnik, SorkoËeviÊ’s summer villa did not serve only as an affidavit to social might and status. The arrangement of visible items on the estates is subjected to the clean elements of day and crowned by the sun as the supreme phenomenon, to quote the famous French poet and essay writer Paul Valêry.

Petar SorkoËeviÊ died in 1535 at the age of 63, and left all of his worldly goods to his son Pasko, so that he might enjoy all of the inherited property in an advanced state of our homeland. Pasko had a good role model in his father and continued to tread in his footsteps.

As he enjoyed quite a lofty reputation among the aristocracy, he acted as rector three times, in addition to many other duties and offices he held on behalf of the government of the Republic. He was already of age when his father undertook the construction of the villa.

As his sole inheritor, he continued to improve it with pride.

The villa can be approached through two gates; the south and the north. The south gate

is a modest, garden gate, with a small Renaissance entrance, whereas the northern gate is representative and leads onto a portico whose one arm descends into the ground floor of the body of the building and commands an enchanting view of the magnificent ambience of the garden with the fish pond. The fascinating quality of the garden stems from the spacious horticultural landscape, which is split into three different horizontal levels. The courtyard portico is the most luxurious part of the entire complex. In the manner of antiquity and Roman houses, the grandeur, fully visible only from the inside, can be hardly discerned across the courtyard walls. These high walls which protect the countryside estate from wind and prying glances largely contribute to the intimacy of all the different areas of Sorgo’s summer villa - a light one-storey building with a loggia, an orsan, a chapel, a landscaped garden and a fish pond.

The interior of the garden area may be devised from an impression that Venetian travelogue writer Benedetto Ramberti gained of Gruæ in 1530, when Sorgo’s villa was already in situ.

He described it as a place of very beautiful and elegant houses with landscaped gardens full of sweet oranges, lemons, cedar trees and fruit of all sorts, with beautifully designed wells featuring water cascades.

In those times, from childhood the citizens of Dubrovnik received instruction on how to develop landscaped gardens. Their tutors expected them to write essays on gardens for their homework; they were taught how to ameliorate steep and meagre land by adding fertile soil to it that Dubrovnik’s maritime ships brought from their travels to Southern Italy when they returned to their home port.

Neither SorkoËeviÊ’s nor any other Dubrovnik summer villa had sentries or loopholes for rifles or arrows. The fact that unfortified summer villas appeared in the 15th and 16th centuries, even in very remote places, means that the Dubrovnik aristocracy believed that peace would reign supreme for a long time even beyond the city walls, in the villages and on the sea. An Italian pedagogue, the principal of the Filip de Diversis school in Dubrovnik, wrote in the mid-15th century: Finally, I would like to point out that following one of the most superb policies of the government of Dubrovnik, the citizens of Dubrovnik invest a lot of pain and effort into maintaining peace and accord with everybody… as much as possible, they try to employ wisdom, money and patience to avoid conflicts and war.

The entire countryside summer villa complex is elaborate and playful. We can glean different functions and elements from its CROATIA AIRLINES

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footprint, all tied harmoniously together, both aesthetically and in terms of their contents.

As one walks through the different rooms, the interior ambientality leads one to experience each and every one of its parts, as well as its exceptional wholeness which tells a story in quite a remarkable way: slowly or more rapidly, depending on where a visitor finds themselves, what they experience, how they react to the special qualities of what they see. Hosts and visitors could gather in the villa without getting into each other’s hair; they could enjoy the gardens and parks in the shade of the treetops, in the coolness of the forest and sea breezes, in the wonderful ambiences of the villa itself, in the hall, the loggia, or the chapel where they went when they wanted to pray in peace.

The villa’s ground floor opens onto a spacious salon atrium surrounded by three different spaces: two proper rooms and a small narrow room. The small room is currently being used as a reception and FiskoviÊ suspects that in the past it served as a bathroom. A steep and narrow stairway made from stone just like in a majority of Dubrovnik summer villas, leads up to the first floor.

On coming up from the ground floor to the first floor one enters a big hall, elegant, spacious and airy, with daylight coming through Gothic windows with multiple arches, fenced off by a slim Gothic Renaissance balustrade consisting of stone pillars. The wooden ceiling with beams in this luxurious hall is supported by stone consoles. The hall still features original stone furniture, as well as a wall closet, a sink and a shallow Renaissance fireplace indicating that hosts and their guests probably used this room in wintertime.

The hall is flanked by four rooms; and through the triforium, a three-mullioned window, the central doorway leads onto an open loggia on the first floor of the northern wing. The loggia rests above an arsenal, the so-called orsan, which sheltered boats when the owners were not out fishing, going on leisurely excursions or visiting friends in nearby summer villas.

From there, a lovely view extends over the Bay of Gruæ, the idealized landscaped garden, the exemplary fish pond and the sky above.

The other side of the grand hall opens onto another, half-enclosed loggia. This loggia, with its appearance and the staircase that leads to the landscaped back garden featuring a family chapel, proves that a landscape conditions the soul, amenable to the world of accessible nature which supports a man’s need to be part of it, close to it and with it.

The loggia features wide Renaissance arches.

Its lightness ties it skilfully and intimately with

the house. That intimacy is further enhanced by the open plan of the central hall of the northern wing from which wide arches command views of the garden terraces and the lush vegetation on Lapad. The unity of a building with nature is the goal that has been achieved by this intimacy and openness of all the rooms to the outside space. The loggia features an octagonal Gothic table made of stone, a customary feature in Dubrovnik parks, a well and a wall basin with a lion masque. The wall on the eastern side of the loggia is decorated with a colourful artistic depiction of statuesque Roman women, but there is also a niche filled with complete emptiness and an inscription on the board below it: IGNOTO DEO - To an unknown God, as an important expression of a metaphysical stance towards the intelligence of the universe and respect for all visitors and the religions of all those who have visited the villa for centuries.

In the great room, the so-called Neptune’s Hall, which can be entered from the western part of the loggia and into which light penetrates through narrow Gothic windows, the ceiling is wooden and the beams and boards are decorated with the depictions of allegories from Neptune’s life, rife with the joy of sirens and dolphins, volute motifs and flowers. The inheritor of the SorkoËeviÊ villa, Marinica Nikolin –ureviÊ (Giorgi), a Dubrovnik patriot who spoke fervently in the Dalmatian Parliament advocating the unification of Dalmatia with Croatia, entrusted the Venetian painter Vicenzo Faggiotto to repair the ceiling in the 19th century.

At the foot of the staircase is the already mentioned little park, surrounded by a wall and encircled by paved paths. A little church has also found its place there. Its altar was once adorned by a painting of St. Cross to which the chapel was dedicated. The painting has gone missing during the stormy history.

Today, the church houses the biggest statue of the patron saint of Dubrovnik, St. Blaise, a work by the most prominent sculptor of the late Gothic Period, Juraj Dalmatinac, who sculpted it way back in 1464.

The extent of the damage that the villa suffered in the devastating earthquake that struck Dubrovnik on 6 April 1667 is not known. The city was turned into a heap of rubble, whereas dramatic fires took their toll: approximately 42 per cent of the total population of the city lost their lives. Many of the Sorgo family members ended up on the list of noble casualties, at least 18 of them perished in the disaster. It took years for Dubrovnik to recover after the earthquake, and a lot of diplomatic efforts on the part of its dignitaries who went out to CROATIA AIRLINES

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seek international financial, professional and military assistance. At the same time, common people were painstakingly rebuilding their city from the rubble.

Cvito FiskoviÊ has not found any proof that there was life in the SorkoËeviÊ summer villa during the 17th, 18th and the first half of the 19th century. Ostensibly, it was refurbished and restored to its full glory in the 18th century when the already mentioned –ureviÊ family took possession over from the SorkoËeviÊ’s just about at the same time when social life was being revived in Dubrovnik. In the late 18th century, the Republic of Dubrovnik was the only neutral state still standing in the Mediterranean basin, with 85 consular offices around the world, 350 ships and a strong building industry that had developed after the major earthquake in 1667.

The villa survived the demise of the Republic of Dubrovnik in the first half of the 19th century when Napoleon’s military entered the city.

The –ureviÊ family was already impoverished by that time and that fact reflected on the appearance of the villa.

While war and post-war developments were unfolding during the 20 th century, Sorgo’s countryside retreat was waiting patiently for some better times to come. In 1949, the summer villa was given to the Institute for Historical Sciences of the then JAZU (nowadays the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts) whereby it was restored in the early 50’s of the last century. Petar SorkoËeviÊ’s summer villa in Lapad is now the place where the history of Dubrovnik and the Republic of Dubrovnik is being studied.

This is what art history theoretician Mladen PejakoviÊ has written in conclusion to his essay on Sorgo’s rural complex published in the book Omjeri i znakovi (Proportions and Signs) (Matica Hrvatska, Dubrovnik, 1996): There is something melodic about this summer house. A quality of particular harmoniousness distinguishes it from other countryside villas in Dubrovnik and makes it stand out as something unique. Never fully seen from one view, this villa demands to be regarded from all possible vantage points. It has many facets. Disposed in this way, does it have a main façade or is it special due to its intriguing intent to surprise us yet again, to startle us, to reprimand us and mollify us with a new window in a new vista, with a new scene in a new frame? Admittedly, it is hard to imagine all possible ties and movements of people at the time when it lived its life to the full, every day, every year. There is no doubt that this was a polyvalent instrument of life: a vista on the gentleness of Gods.

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DubrovaËki Vrtovi Sunca DubrovaËki Vrtovi Sunca potpuno su integrirani resort na prekrasnoj Jadranskoj obali. Nalazi se u mjestu Oraπac, samo 12 kilometara od povijesne jezgre Dubrovnika, i najveÊi je resort na hrvatskoj obali. Sadræava 201 sobu s pogledom na more u sklopu hotela Radisson Blu. Za obiteljsko træiπte resort nudi 207 potpuno opremljenih apartmana s vanjskim terasama s pogledom na vrtove i more. Apartmani su za Ëetiri do osam gostiju, od jednosobnoga do trosobnoga, idealni za duge boravke.

Resort je veÊ prepoznat kao jedan od glavnih turistiËkih odredišta na Jadranskoj obali i brzo postaje odrediπte s velikim izborom ponude, spreman ispuniti razliËite æelje za potpun doæivljaj Dubrovnika i regije.

DubrovaËki Vrtovi Sunca postaju jedan od vodeÊih centara za konferencije i skupove u Hrvatskoj na temelju uspjeπno organiziranih prestiænih konferencija, skupova i poticajnih putovanja tijekom proπle godine.

SADRÆAJI Resort ukljuËuje The Spa by OCCO koji nudi πirok izbor njegujuÊih tretmana, hidroterapijski bazen, jaccuzi i mnogo viπe. Veliki sportski i rekreacijski centar takoer je dio ponude tog resorta s mnogo sadræaja, ukljuËujuÊi teretanu, squash teren, vanjske teniske terene, te nogometno igraliπte za pet igraËa po ekipi.

DjeËji klub nudi cjelokupan program za djecu svih uzrasta i tinejdæere, 13 restorana i barova s lokalnom i internacionalnom kuhinjom, tri velika vanjska bazena, supermarket i maloprodajne duÊane, sve osmiπljeno zato da zadovolji razliËite æelje i oËekivanja gostiju. *Radno vrijeme restorana i barova ovisi o godiπnjem dobu i vremenskim uvjetima.

KONFERENCIJSKI SADRÆAJI Konferencijski sadræaji ukljuËuju modernu viπefunkcionalnu plesnu dvoranu i sedam dodatnih konferencijskih prostorija pogodnih za razliËite dogaaje, od manjih sastanaka s prirodnim dnevnim svjetlom do konferencija i za do 850 sudionika. Kongresni sadræaji ukljuËuju vrhunsku audiovizualnu i visokotehnoloπku opremu.

The Residences at Dubrovnik Sun Gardens ukljuËuje 207 apartmana, veÊinom jednosobnih i dvosobnih, od 44 do 111 Ëetvornih metara. Svi apartmani imaju namjeπtene terase s pogledom na more i vrtove u dvoriπtu.

DubrovaËki Vrtovi Sunca isto tako nude jedinstvenu moguÊnost kupnje potpuno opremljenih i profesionalno voenih apartmana.

Vlasnici se mogu koristiti svim sadræajima u 28

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tome prekrasnom resortu na obali. Cijene apartmana su od 170.000 eura.

POSEBNA PONUDA Dopustite si jedinstveno iskustvo vrhunske kvalitete tijekom odmora u luksuzno opremljenim sobama na katu The Club s povlasticama Club Floor Lounge!

The Club Floor nudi gostima idealnu uslugu i lokaciju za opuπtanje nakon dugog dana na plaæi. Opustite se u nagraivanoj spa ili odigrajte tenis s profesionalnim igraËima. Osvjeæite se hladnim koktelom na terasi The Cluba dok uæivate u panoramskom pogledu na nedirnuto Jadransko more i Elafitske otoke.

Cijene od 150 eura Za viπe informacija, molimo, kontaktirajte nas na adresi: DubrovaËki Vrtovi Sunca Na moru 1, 20234 Oraπac, Croatia Telefon +385 (0)20 361 500 ili +385 (0) 20 361 350 www.radissonblu.com/resort-dubrovnik www.dubrovniksungardens.com

Dubrovnik Sun Gardens Dubrovnik Sun Gardens is a fully integrated destination resort on the beautiful Adriatic coast. The development is located in Oraπac, only 12 kilometres from the Old Town of Dubrovnik and is one of the most comprehensive developments on the Croatian coast. It features a 201 room 5 star Radisson Blu hotel, all with sea view facing rooms. For the family market it also offers 207 fully-appointed residences, with outdoor terraces and patios offering garden and sea views. The residences can sleep four to eight guests and range from one to three bedrooms and are ideally suited for longer stays.

The resort is already recognised as one of the prime tourism sites on the Adriatic Coast and is quickly becoming the resort destination of choice for many wishing to experience the full extent of what Dubrovnik and this region has to offer.

Dubrovnik Sun Gardens is also quickly becoming one of the leading conference and meeting destinations in Croatia, having successfully managed many blue chip corporate conference, meetings and incentive trips over the last year.

FACILITIES Resort facilities include The Spa by OCCO, which offers a variety of indulgent treatments, a hydrotherapy pool, Jacuzzi and much more.

The resort also features a comprehensive

sports and recreation centre with a range of facilities including a gym, a squash court, outdoor tennis courts, and a five-a-side football pitch. A kids’ club provides full programming for children of all ages and teenagers, 13 restaurants and bars featuring local and international cuisine, 3 large outdoor swimming pools, a supermarket and retail shopping, all designed to appeal and satisfy the most discerning guest. *The operation of the restaurant and bars varies according to seasonally and is subject to weather conditions; individual outlets may be closed outside the main season.

CONFERENCE FACILITIES The conference facilities include a stylish multifunctional ballroom and 7 additional conference rooms that can host a variety of events, from small boardroom meetings with natural daylight to conferences of up to 850 participants. It features state of the art audio and visual equipment and all additional hi-tech digital accoutrements.

‘The Residences at Dubrovnik Sun Gardens’ comprises 207 apartments predominantly made-up of one and two bedroom units ranging in size from 44 square metres to 111 square metres. All have furnished terrace areas with sea or courtyard views.

Dubrovnik Sun Gardens also offers guests a rare opportunity to purchase a fully appointed and professionally managed residence. ‘The Residences at Dubrovnik Sun Gardens’ comprises 207 apartments predominantly madeup of one and two bedroom units ranging in size from 44 square metres to 111 square metres. All have furnished terrace areas with sea or courtyard views.

Ownership offers full access to amenities at this stunning waterfront resort. Ownership starts from 170,000 Euros.

SPECIAL OFFER: Indulge in the ultimate holiday experience with luxury rooms on top floor with Club Floor Lounge privileges! The Club Floor offers guests the perfect setting to relax after a long day at the beach, unwind at the award-winning spa or play a match of tennis with the resort’s tennis professionals. Savour a cold cocktail on the Club’s terrace while enjoying the panoramic view of the unspoiled Adriatic Sea and Elafiti Islands.

Prices from 150 EUR For more information please contact us at: Dubrovnik Sun Gardens Na Moru 1, 20234 Oraπac, Croatia Telephone +385 (0)20 361 500 or +385 (0)20 361 350 www.radissonblu.com/resort-dubrovnik www.dubrovniksungardens.com

Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Dubrovnik Sun Gardens

MEET IN DUBROVNIK

Open all year round

Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Dubrovnik Sun Gardens Na Moru 1, 20234 Orašac Dubrovnik, Croatia Tel: +385 20 361 500, Fax: +385 20 361 501 info.dubrovnik@radissonblu.com www.radissonblu.com/resort-dubrovnik CROATIA AIRLINES

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FESTA SVETOGA VLAHA THE CELEBRATION OF ST. BLAISE Grad na dlanu sveca A City Poised on the Palm of the Saint Piπe-By: Tereza BuconiÊ GoviÊ Postoji u Dubrovniku razvalina crkvice sv. Stjepana u Pustijerni za koju se vezuje jedna od najljepπih i najznaËajnijih legendi ovoga juænoga kamenog grada. Po toj su se priËi godine 971. usred zime, u noÊi od 2. na 3. veljaËe pred gradskim zidinama ukotvile mletaËke lae. Usred zimske noÊi, u vrijeme kad su ulice opustjele, gradskim trgom je prema Pustijerni i crkvi sv.

Stjepana iπao plovan - sveÊenik Stojko. Crkvu je naπao otvorenu, a u njoj Ëetu nebeske vojske i pred svima sijedog starca. Obratio se sveÊeniku molbom da obavijesti gradske oce kako MleËani planiraju napad na Dubrovnik, a on ih je sa svojom vojskom veÊ nekoliko noÊi odbijao od gradskih zidina. Bio je obuËen u biskupsko odijelo, na glavi mu mitra, u ruci πtap, a na upit Stojkov tko je, odgovorio je da mu je ime Vlaho.

Tako je jedne zimske noÊi Dubrovnik upoznao svoga zaπtitnika, svoga parca-svetog Vlaha.

Sutradan se njegov glasnik uistinu obratio gradskim ocima i prenio poruku. »im su poËele uæurbane pripreme na zidinama, a gradska se vrata zatvorila, MleËani su znali da su im namjere otkrivene i krenuli su dalje.

VeÊ se sljedeÊe godine 972. u Dubrovniku zapoËinje slaviti dan zaπtitnika, a u blizini gradskih vrata gradi se i prva njegova crkva. ProÊi Êe stoljeÊa blagostanja i slobode, a prve Êe se kosti svetog Vlaha, sebatskog muËenika i biskupa, u Dubrovnik prenijeti tek 1026. godine. Za njega se zna da je poginuo muËeniËkom smrÊu za cara Dioklecijana, a æivio je u 3. st. u Sebasti u Kapadociji.

DubrovËani su noÊni dogaaj 3. veljaËe oznaËili svojim najveÊim blagdanom kad se gradska vrata πirom otvore svim prijateljima i vjernicima iz okolice.

Svakog 2. veljaËe Dubrovnik proslavlja Gospu Kandeloru. Tada se u narodu ponavlja stara izrjeka:”Kandelora, zima fora, za njom ide sveti Blaæ i govori da je laæ.” I uistinu, taj dan, kad se kopneni gradovi kupaju kiπom, a Europa Ëesto mete snijeg, Dubrovnik je pun mimoze, sunovrata i - sunËanih, pravih proljetnih dana. Pred sveËevom crkvom od jutra se puπtaju bijele golubice i Ëitav se dan pred oltarom mole vjernici, a sveÊenici ih sa dvije u kriæ isprepletene svijeÊe blagosiljaju i usnama im prinose srebrnu monstrancu, rad dubrovaËkih zlatara. U njoj se nalazi kost iz grla sveca za kojega se zna da je bio Ëudotvorac i da je u Sebasti lijeËio svojim dodirom.

O blagdanu se iz udaljenih dubrovaËkih mjesta zapute vjernici u narodnim noπnjama. Nose oznake svojih crkava i kako dolaze pred crkvu posebnim se povijanjem barjaka, tako da 30

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njegovo platno ne dosegne pod, javljaju svecu zaπtitniku. Ujutro je u prepunoj crkvi sveËana misa, a potom Ulicom od puËa ide procesija sveÊenika i vjernika. Tom se prigodom nose svete moÊi, bizantska kruna svetog Vlaha, relikvijar ruke i noge, sveta monstranca pa Isusova pelenica. To se ljudsko mnoπtvo kreÊe glavnom dubrovaËkom ulicom, proslavljenim Stradunom i potom vraÊa u crkvu.

Ne zna se πto je u Dubrovniku tog dana ljepπe i uzbudljivije: narodne noπnje Primorja, Æupe dubrovaËke ili Konavala. Izgleda kao da se vratilo vrijeme starih obiËaja. Pozornost plijeni πarenilo crkvenih barjaka, njihovo leprπanje na trgu iza Orlanda i skupina trombunjera, πto na ramenu nose kratke πiroke puπke Ëijom su bukom nekad davno DubrovËani plaπili neprijatelje.

Oni ispaljuju salve prije ulaza u Grad, na Brsaljama gdje se i u doba Republike vjeæbalo gaanje iz puπaka i topova. Tek u veËernjim satima, kad se Grad obuËe u tamu, a sveËeve se moÊi odmaraju u riznici, gosti iz seoskih bratovπtina odlaze svojim kuÊama. Pred lijepim baroknim ulazom u parËevu crkvu zeleni se vijenac lovorike, blistaju vitraji proËelja, a sa zidina, raskoπnih zgrada i crkve u prolaznike gledaju kipovi svetog Vlaha koji veÊ stoljeÊima dræi na ispruæenoj ruci maketu Grada, kao da je prinosi svome srcu i zaπtitniËkom zagrljaju.

■ In Dubrovnik, the ruins of the Church of St. Steven located at Pustijerna is tied to one of the most beautiful and most important legends of this southern city of stone. According to the tale, Venetian ships anchored before the city walls on the eve of February 03rd, 971, in the middle of winter. The Venetians gained free access to medieval Dubrovnik under the pretense of stocking up on food and water for their journey eastwards. However, their spies carefully noted the number of guards on the city walls, as well as the amount of amunition in the arsenal. In the middle of the winter night, when the streets lay deserted, Priest Stojko, the parish priest, went from the city square towards Pustijerna and the Church of St. Steven. He found the church open, and inside, the troops of a heavenly army led by a grizzled old man. He addressed the priest with a request that he inform the city fathers of how the Venetians planned to attack Dubrovnik. The old man had repelled them from the city walls with his own army for a number of nights already. He was garbed as a bishop, with a mitre on his head, and a staff in his hand. When Stojko asked him to identify himself, he answered that his name was Vlaho. So it was that on a winter’s night, Dubrovnik met its patron, St. Blaise. The next day, his messenger did in truth confront the city fathers with the message. The Venetians knew that they had been discovered when they noted the hasty activity on the city walls and the closed city gates, and so moved on.

Already in the following year, in 972, Dubrovnik began to celebrate a day in honour of the pa-

tron saint. His first church was built near the city gates. A century of prosperity and freedom would pass. It was only in 1026 that the first remains of St. Blaise, the martyr and bishop of Sebaste, were transferred to Dubrovnik It is known that he died a martyr’s death for the emperor Diocletian, and that he lived in the 3rd century in Sebaste in Capodocsia.

The citizens of Dubrovnik marked February 03rd as their greatest holiday in memory of the night’s events. A day when the city gates are wide open to all friends and churchgoers of the region.

Regularly, on February 02nd, Dubrovnik celebrates its Virgin Mary Candlemas. An old saying is then repeated: «Candelora, winter’s gone, followed by Saint Blaise, who says it is untrue.fl Indeed, on this day, when inland cities are bathed in rain, and Europe is frequently swept by snow, Dubrovnik is full of mimosa, narcissi, and - sunny, springtime days. In the morning, white pigeons are released in front of the saint’s church, and prayers are said in front of the altar by the faithful the entire day. The priests bless everyone with a cross shaped out of two intertwined candles, and raise a silver monstrance to their lips, the work of Dubrovnik goldsmiths. The monstrance contains a bone from the throat of a saint known as a miracle-worker in Sebaste, who healed by touch.

On the saint’s day, churchgoers arrive from distant Dubrovnik areas, dressed in national costumes. They carry their church emblems, and as they come before the church, they salute the patron saint by twirling the banners in such a manner that they never touch the ground.

The holy mass is held in the morning in an overcrowded church. Afterwards, a procession of priests and churchgoers line up for a procession through the street ‘Ulica od puËa’. Holy reliquaries are carried on this occasion: the Byzantine crown of St. Blaise, the hand and leg reliquaries, the holy monstrance, and the shroud of Jesus.

This multitude proceeds along the main street of Dubrovnik, the famous Stradun, and subsequently returns to the church.

In Dubrovnik on this day, it is difficult to say what is more beautiful and more exciting: the national costumes of Primorje, Æupa DubrovaËka or Konavle. It looks like the return of old traditional times. Focus is drawn towards the colorful church banners, and their fluttering, on the square behind Orlando and the group of trombunjera, who carry short, broad rifles on their shoulders. Long ago in Dubrovnik, the noise they issued used to frighten enemies away.

They emit volleys before entering the city, and at Brsalje, where rifle and cannon shooting were practiced in the days of the Republic. Only when the city is covered in evening darkness, and the saint’s reliquaries are resting in the treasury, do the village confraternities return home. Green laurel wreaths decorate the front of the beautiful baroque entrance of the saint’s church, while the stained-glass windows on the façade shine. The statue of St. Blaise gazes down at the passersby from the city walls, elaborate buildings and churches, with an outstretched hand that holds a model of the city as it has for centuries, as if to bring it closer to the heart and embrace of the patron.

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■ UMJETNOST ART

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Piše/By Željko BistroviÊ Fotografije/Photos Ivo Pervan stra je magiËna zemlja, trokut gdje se sreÊu romanski, germanski i slavenski europski narodi, trokut koji spaja Alpe i srednju Europu sa Sredozemljem. PolitiËka povijest Istre neodvojiva je od kulturne, a treba je poznavati jer mnogo su puta naruËitelji fresaka upravo feudalci i crkvena aristokracija. U turbulentnim vremenima ranog srednjeg vijeka Istra dolaskom Franaka postaje markgrofovija, rubna pokrajina franaËkog carstva. Vrijeme je to jaËanja Akvilejskog patrijarhata Ëiji patrijarsi ujedno postaju vladari Istre, istarski markgrofovi. Kao zastupnici akvilejskog patrijarha s vremenom se izdvajaju goriËki grofovi i njihovi ministerijali, Devinci. Zona politiËkog utjecaja Akvilejske patrijarhije s vremenom postaje podruËje kojim vladaju Habsburzi. Kontinentalna Istra postaje dio Kranjske, a obalni su istarski gradovi podloæni Veneciji. Ali unatoË tomu πto je neki feudalac ili crkveni velikodostojnik naruËitelj zidnih slika, u Istri se kao naruËitelji umjetnina rano pojavljuju srednjovjekovne bratovπtine. Neke od njih nalaze se prikazane na freskama, kao πto su u Sv. Antonu u Æminju, Sv. Jakovu u Barbanu ili Sv. Antonu u Viπnjanu.

Teme i motivi istarskih fresaka, njihova ikonografija, krπÊanske su pouke kojima je u srediπtu æivot Kristov, njegovo djetinjstvo, javno djelovanje i muka. No u srednjovjekovlju veoma su popularni razliËiti sveci KatoliËke crkve, zagovornici prema Kristu i Bogu Ocu, kojima su upuÊene svakodnevne molitve. Ti su sveci zaπtitnici od raznovrsnih nevolja i bolesti. PosveÊeni su im Ëitavi ciklusi kao na primjer istoimenoj svetici u crkvi sv. Katarine u SaviËenti, sv. Nikoli u istoimenoj kapeli u Rakotulama ili sv. Jakovu u Barbanu. No gotovo u svakoj istarskoj crkvici naiÊi Êemo na pojedinaËne prikaze svetaca. Jedan od najpopularnijih bio je sv. Antun opat ili u narodu poznatiji kao sv. Anton od praπËiÊa.

Njegova je uloga u srednjem vijeku vaæna jer

I

Kad kao putnik koji dolazi u Istru budete kroËili na istarsko tlo, veÊ u zraËnoj luci ugledat Êete jedan od simbola kulturne baπtine u Istri, istarske freske. Iako su to vrlo dobre kopije, ne mogu nadomjestiti originale koji se nalaze razasuti po crkvama πirom Istre. Putujte Istrom i uvjerite se!

Be on the lookout for Istrian frescoes, one of the symbols of Istrian cultural heritage, as soon as you get off the plane and take your first step onto Istrian soil: a display at the airport presents replicas of mural paintings. Although of very high quality, the replicas are a far cry from the originals and a poor substitute for the genuine pieces which continue to subsist in churches strewn across Istria. Istra see it to believe it.

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zaπtitnik je stoke. Njemu uz bok stoji sv. Rok kao najpopularniji zaπtitnik od kuænih bolesti te Êemo redovito naiÊi na crkve posveÊene tom svecu na ulazu u naselje. Sveti je Martin pak svetac Ëiji kult po Europi πire Franci.

Zaπtitnik je vinogradara i stoga je njegov blagdan, Martinje, jedan od najveselijih blagdana uopÊe. U Istri, koja je zemlja kvalitetnog vina i najvinarskija hrvatska regija, nemojte propustiti vinske uæitke. A ako vas nakon dobra jela i piÊa zaboli zub, obratite se sv. Apoloniji na Ëije Êete prikaze takoer naiÊi lutajuÊi po oslikanim istarskim crkvicama.

Mnogi se prizori izdvajaju ikonografskom zanimljivoπÊu. Jedan od njih prikaz je Æivog kriæa u kapelici sv. Katarine u Lindaru iz 1409. godine. U donjem dijelu prizora krakovi se raspeÊu produæuju u Ëetiri ruke od kojih jedna maËem probija glavu alegoriËnom prikazu sinagoge. Ona povezanih oËiju jaπe na magarcu dræeÊi u jednoj ruci jare, a u drugoj slomljeno koplje sa zastavicom na kojoj je naslikan πkorpion. Tako se æeli naglasiti ukidanje Starog zavjeta. Druga ruka kriæa blagoslivlja novozavjetnu crkvu koja u liku okrunjene æene kleËi na simbolima Ëetiriju evanelista. Gornja ruka otkljuËava vrata Nebeskog Jeruzalema blaæenim duπama, a donja razbija vrata limba dok se avoli opiru gaajuÊi ih strelicama iz luka.

SpominjuÊi raznorazne ikonografske teme, nezaobilazan je motiv Plesa mrtvaca, na koji Êete naiÊi u Beramu i Hrastovlju. Beramski je jedan od najstarijih saËuvanih na svijetu.

U koloni koja koraËa prema otvorenu grobu nalaze se predstavnici svih staleæa: dijete, prosjak, trgovac, gostioniËar, kralj, kraljica i papa. Njih prate rasplesani skeleti prema neumitnom kraju. Ta srednjovjekovna ideja demokratiËnosti smrti pred kojom smo svi 36

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jednaki opominje nas na prolaznost æivota, a pred njezinom ekspresivnoπÊu ni danas ne moæemo ostati ravnoduπni.

Od svih fresaka saËuvanih u Istri uklopljenoπÊu crkve u ambijent i kvalitetom fresaka izdvojili bismo tri. U oËovjeËenom krajoliku dvijetisuÊljetnih suhozida vodnjanπtine, zasnovanih joπ u antiËko doba da bi se podijelila zemlja isluæenim rimskim vojnicima, i dandanas uzgajaju se masline i proizvodi jedno od najboljih maslinovih ulja na svijetu. U tome mediteranskom okruæju, usamljena u krajoliku, daleko od svih naselja, bljeska se trobrodna bazilika sv. Foπke. Njezina unutraπnjost skriva od znatiæeljnih pogleda Ëudesan prizor - πestorica apostola pogleda uzdignuta u nebo svjedoËe uzaπaπÊu Kristovu, koji unutar mandorle duginih boja sjedi na prijestolju optoËenom draguljima. »etvorica anela uznose ga u nebo koje, podijeljeno u nekoliko vodoravnih pojasa, zavrπava monumentalnim prepletom.

Ovdje se sreÊu bizantski i romaniËki, zapadnjaËki utjecaji. No svojim likovnim oblikovanjem, geometrijskim pojednostavljivanjem oblika, te slikarije bliske su i oku danaπnjeg promatraËa naviknutoga na apstraktnu umjetnost.

Dolina tako mirne istarske rjeËice da je i dobila ime Mirna, staniπte je cijenjenih istarskih delicija, tartufa. Dolinu okruæuju plodna poljoprivredna podruËja na padinama breæuljkastog krajolika. Uklopljena u taj krajolik, nedaleko od Motovuna, nalazi se grobljanska crkva sv. Nikole u Rakotulama. Oslikala ju je u 14. st. radionica nekoga venecijanskog majstora. »etiri prizora, po dva na juænome i sjevernom zidu, opisuju prizore iz legende o sv. Nikoli.

NajoËuvanije su one gdje sv. Nikola sijeËe Artemidino stablo iz kojega bjeæe demoni i ona u kojoj daruje siromaπne djevojke kako

bi imale miraz kojim bi se mogle udati. Tjelesnost likova jakih, guπastih vratova i njeænih, suptilno iscrtanih ruku, istiËe se u prostoru tek naznaËenom arhitekturom. UmjeπnoπÊu prikazivanja slikar nam je ostavio jedno od najdojmljivijih djela treËenta u Istri.

Nedaleko od Viæinade, u poznatome vinarskom kraju, nalazi se crkva sv. Marije na Boæjem polju. Nekad se ondje nalazio samostan viteπkog reda ivanovaca, a poslije su ih naslijedili glagoljaπi, franjevci treÊereci.

U svetiπtu gotiËke crkve nalazi se jedan od najljepπih kasnogotiËkih ciklusa u Istri. Oslikala ga je radionica majstora Ivana iz Kastva, srednjovjekovnog mjesta na istoËnoj granici s Istrom. U svodu nalaze se simboli evanelista sa svicima s pripadajuÊim poËecima njihovih evanelja. Okruæeni su jedanaestoricom apostola koji dræe svitke s dijelovima Vjerovanja. U rubnom dijelu svoda aneli muziciraju dræeÊi srednjovjekovna glazbala i svitke s tekstom Slave. Krist koji sjedi na kraljevskom prijestolju, s krunom na glavi i kraljevskom insignijom vladarske jabuke s kriæem u lijevoj ruci, nadopunjuje ikonografiju Vjerovanja prikazanu na svodu. Na sjevernom zidu svetiπta dva su doslovno preslikana lista Biblije pauperum, Ëetrdesetolisne drvorezne knjige, srednjovjekovne preteËe tiska nizozemskog porijekla. Istoga su porijekla i predloπci po kojima je Ivan iz Kastva slikao apostole i Krista, grafiËki listovi nizozemskoga grafiËara Israhela von Meckenema.

Ali nemojte s otkrivanjem istarskih fresaka stati u Boæjem polju. Blizu su Labinci, Viπnjan, BaËva. Gotovo u svakome veÊemu istarskome mjestu nalazi se neka oslikana crkvica. Po gustoÊi saËuvanih srednjovjekovnih fresaka na zemljopisno malom prostoru, Istra je jedina od europskih regija koja moæe uz bok

stati talijanskim pokrajinama. Teπko je stoga izdvojiti nekoliko lokaliteta. Ipak, kao nezaobilazne mogu se preporuËiti: Sv. Martina u Sv. LovreËu, Sv. Foπku kraj BatvaËa, Sv. Jeronima u Humu, Sv. Mariju u ©krilinama kod Berama, BDM u Boæjem polju kraj Viæinade te mjesta s viπe oslikanih crkava kao πto su DraguÊ, Æminj, SaviËenta, Lovran i Oprtalj.

Dopustimo im da, gledajuÊi u polumraku njihovih mistiËnih unutraπnjosti, postanemo svjedoci vremena o kojemu nam freske nijemo govore. I neka nas sjeÊanja na njih vrate barem joπ jedanput natrag - u magiËnu zemlju Istru. ■ hen it comes to the number of preserved medieval frescoes in a geographically small area, Istria is the only European region which can compete with Italian provinces. Singling out just a few of the localities is by no means an easy task. However, I dare recommend several that simply must not be missed: St. Martin’s Church in Sveti LovreË, the Church of St. Fosca near the village of BatvaË, the Church of St. Hieronymus in Hum, the Church of St. Mary in ©kriline near Beram, the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Boæje Polje close to Viæinada, and a few places featuring more than one painted church, such as in DraguÊ, Æminj, SaviËent, Lovran and Oprtalj.

Istria is a magical land; a triangle where the Romanesque, Germanic and Slavonic peoples of Europe meet, a triangle where the Alps and Central Europe connect with the Mediterranean. The cultural history of Istria cannot be considered separately from the political developments that have occurred in the area. Familiarity with Istrian political history is a prerequisite to understanding the origins of its fresco work; more often than not, fres-

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coes were commissioned by feudal rulers and church aristocracy. During the turbulent early Middle Ages, Istria became a margravate, a peripheral province of the Frankish Empire. It was at the time when the patriarchy of Aquileia gained prominence and its patriarchs became the rulers or margraves of Istria. With time, the Counts of Gorica, more particularly the noble Devinci family, came to the fore as the representatives of the patriarch of Aquileia.

The zone where the patriarchy of Aquileia exerted political influence was gradually incorporated into the area ruled by the Habsburgs.

The continental part of Istria was annexed to the Duchy of Carniola (Kranjska), whereas its coastal towns recognized the rule of Venice.

Historically, feudal lords and church dignitaries were those that commissioned fresco works.

In Istria, the medieval fraternities appeared as patrons of art very early on. Some of them are even depicted in the frescoes, like in the churches of St. Anthony in Æminj, St. James in Barban and St. Anthony in Viπnjan.

The themes and motifs of Istrian mural paintings and their iconography stem from Christian morals which are based on the life of Christ, his childhood, public work and passion. In the Middle Ages, various Catholic saints, to whom humans appealed as their advocates before Christ and God the Father, were equally popular as subjects of everyday prayers. These saints were also patrons and protectors against all harms and evils, including diseases. There are entire cycles dedicated to them, like for example to St. Catherine in the namesake church in SaviËent, to St. Nicholas in the namesake chapel in Rakotule or in the church of St. James in Barban. We will find individual depictions of saints in nearly every little church in Istria. Among the most popular is St. Anthony, the Father of All Monks, popularly known as St. Anthony of Piglets.

He played a very important role in the Middle Ages as a protector of livestock. Right by his side is St. Roch, as the most popular protector against contagious diseases, which is why we will repeatedly find churches dedicated to him at the entrances to various settlements.

The cult of St. Martin was spread across Europe by the Franks. He is the patron saint of winegrowers; hence St. Martin’s Day, the most cheerful of all holidays. Istria, the most developed viticulture region in Croatia and a land of high quality wine is certainly not a place to miss out on the pleasures of wine. If you develop a toothache after overindulging in good food and drink, turn to St. Apollonia, whose depictions can be found all around Istria, as you roam from one painted church to the next.

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DUBROVNIK a city for all seasons

Dubrovnik is a city for all seasons.

Each season has its distinctive charm, from the warm summer days when tourists flock to the city to the mild and calm winter months when a peace falls over Dubrovnik. On any given day, no matter what the weather is like, there are numerous opportunities to explore and enjoy Dubrovnik through the winter. Be inspired by the breathtaking architecture of the historic city, lose yourself in the quaint side streets, spend some time in one of the many art galleries and museums, relax in a cafĂŠ or indulge yourself in a restaurant.

Take life at your own pace with the time and space to really get to know Dubrovnik.

During the autumn and winter periods Dubrovnik has direct air connections with the European cities Rome, Frankfurt, Paris and London.

Take advantage of a winter special weekend program organised to showcase the best the city has to offer. Taste fine local wines in a vineyard, enjoy a concert by the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra, learn the rich history with a guided tour, try your hand at harvesting oysters, let your hair down with the lively nightlife and experience traditional Dubrovnik cuisine.

Forget the stresses and strains of your modern day routine and enjoy the simple things in life: the sea, sun and fresh air in unforgettable Dubrovnik.

Dubrovnik: truly a city for all seasons.

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Many scenes stand out in terms of their iconographic interest. One of them is a depiction of The Living Cross in St. Catherine’s Chapel in Lindar, dating back to 1409. In the lower part of the scene the Crucifixion is transformed in such a way that its arms extend into four human arms. One of them stabs with a sword the head of an allegoric representation of a synagogue, riding a donkey blindfolded, holding a kid in one hand and a broken pole with a flag bearing a scorpion in the other. This is meant to symbolize the abolition of the Old Testament. The Church of the New Testament is the crowned figure kneeling on the symbols of the Four Evangelists while it is blessed by one of the arms of the cross. The upper arm unlocks the door of Heavenly Jerusalem to the blessed souls, while the lower arm breaks the door of the Limbo as the devils resist, shooting arrows at them with their bows.

Talking about various iconographic elements, we simply cannot avoid the dance of death, a motif that you will see in Beram and Hrastovlje. The Beram Dance of Death is one of the oldest preserved representations of this theme in the world, where representatives of every class and age are depicted marching in a silent procession toward the open tomb, along with dancing skeletons: a child and beggar, a merchant and inn-keeper, the king and queen and the pope himself. This medieval idea of the equality of all before death is still engaging as it reminds us of the transience of life in a most expressive manner.

Of all the Istrian mural paintings we would like to highlight three for their superb quality and the way the churches that house them have been incorporated into the environment.

The landscape around Vodnjan is marked by dry walls surrounding little plots of land. Those walls date back to the time of antiquity when they were first built to divide property among Roman veterans. The olives that are grown on these little plots are used to produce one of the best olive oils in the world. The three-nave basilica of St. Fosca glimmers in the sun against this picturesque Mediterranean landscape, away from any settlements. A magical scene awaits inquisitive eyes in its interior: six apostles gazing at the sky to witness the Ascension of Christ who is sitting on a throne set with gemstones surrounded by a rainbow-coloured mandorla. The mandorla is being carried to Heaven by four angels. The background is divided into several horizontal fields and ends in a monumental interlaced pattern. The mural clearly reveals Byzantine, Romanesque and Western influences. However, the artistic format and the geometrical simplification of the forms make these fresco paintings appealing to the eye of a modern observer used to abstract art.

The valley of an Istrian rivulet, so calm and peaceful that it could not be called anything else but Mirna (peaceful, calm), is the habitat of a highly valued Istrian delicacy: truffles. The rolling hills that frame the CROATIA CROA TI AIRLINES

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valley benefit from arable land. The cemetery of the Church of St. Nicholas in Rakotule is perfectly incorporated into the countryside and can be found not far from Motovun. Its walls were painted in the 14th century by a Venetian master. The four scenes, two on the southern wall and the other two on the northern wall, depict the legend of St. Nicholas.

Among the best preserved scenes in the cycle is the one that depicts St. Nicholas cutting the tree of Artemide to let the demons escape, and the one where he presents money to poor girls to provide them with dowries (marriage gifts). The distinct facial features, goitre necks, the finely shaped hand of the saint, all stand out in the space barely delineated by architectural features. The talented painter has bequeathed us with one of the most impressive works of the Trecento in Istria.

Not far from Viæinada, in a well known winegrowing area, there is a church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary in Boæje Polje. It was the site of a monastery of the Knights Hospitallers who were replaced by the Franciscan Tertiaries, Glagolitic priests. The Gothic church features one of the most beautiful late Gothic mural cycles in Istria. The murals were painted by the workshop of John from Kastav, a medieval settlement on the eastern border of Istria. The ceiling of the sanctuary depicts the symbols of the Evangelists holding scrolls containing the beginning of the corresponding Gospels. The eleven apostles around them are holding scrolls containing parts of the Credo. They are surrounded by angels playing instruments or holding scrolls with fragments of Gloria. The image of Christ seated on a throne as a ruler wearing a crown and holding an apple with a cross in his left hand, the symbol of royal authority, complements the iconography of the Credo depicted on the ceiling.

On the northern wall are the virtually copied pages of the Biblia pauperum, a forty-page long medieval predecessor of printed books of Dutch origin. Of the same origin are the graphic models that John from Kastav used for his depictions of the apostles and Christ, the graphic sheets by the Dutch graphic artist Israhel von Meckenem.

On your quest to discover more Istrian frescoes, do not stop in Boæje Polje. Not far from here are Labinci, Viπnjan, and BaËva. Nearly every bigger Istrian settlement features a church with mural paintings. Allow them to be your link with the past times which live in the silent frescoes hidden by the semidarkness of their interiors. Let your memories of the frescoes take you back, at least once, to the magical land of Istria.

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■ MUZEJI MUSEUMS

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Piše/By Anelka MustapiÊ Fotografije/Photos Romeo IbriπeviÊ and archives

U »rnomercu, zapadnom dijelu Zagreba, ljetos je otvoren jedinstven izlagaËki prostor Lauba - kuÊa za ljude i umjetnost, u kojemu se, na 1300 Ëetvornih metara, predstavljaju i promiËu djela hrvatske likovne umjetnosti. Inovativnost prostora, zamiπljenoga kao hibrid poslovne (uredske) i umjetniËke aktivnosti, odnosno biznisa i arta, upotpunjenih kafiÊem kao bitnom poveznicom suæivota, s radnim vremenom do 23 sata, argumentirano je ponukala neke ugledne umjetnike i kritiËare da projekt spoznaju u svjetskom kontekstu. rema objaπnjenju kustosice Vanje Æanko, Lauba - kuÊa za ljude i umjetnost, jedinstven je dinamiËan i æivi prostor koji ujedinjuje razliËite oblike poslovanja, razliËite æivotne stilove i radne ritmove. Od jutra ondje (u Ulici baruna FilipoviÊa 23a) radno funkcioniraju uredi tvrtke, a poslijepodne i naveËer - umjetnost, tj. ljudi koji æive od umjetnosti i za umjetnost, kako da Êe se god oni, njihova djela i potrebe, manifestirati.

U fundusu zbirke Lauba nalaze se remek-djela klasika suvremene hrvatske umjetnosti, ali, ponajviπe, djela umjetnika na prijelazu dva stoljeÊa, tzv. srednjega i najmlaeg naraπtaja, Ëije je stasanje i stvaranje na razliËite naËine podupirao Tomislav KliËko, kolekcionar i investitor projekta.

Otprije dvadeset i neπto godina, kad se poËeo profi lirati kao kolekcionar, Tomislav KliËko obznanio je da neÊe uÊi u zamke stereotipa pa stoga i ne Ëudi πto je svoj projekt nazvao Lauba i preda nj postavio vrlo zahtjevan cilj: da to bude mjesto doæivljaja, uËenja, zabave i druπtvene interakcije. Tako KliËko, moglo bi se reÊi, odaje hommage svojem djetinjstvu i odrastanju u Vrbovcu, gdje se kruæni drvored lokalno zove lauba (najvjerojatnije prema

P

A unique exhibition space named Lauba - People and Art House opened this summer in »rnomerec, in the western part of Zagreb.

The exhibition space displays and promotes works of Croatian visual art on an exhibition area that spreads over 1300 square feet.

The innovativeness of the space, conceived as a hybrid of business (office) and artistic activities, that is of business and art, supplemented with a coffee bar as an important link of coexistence, with working hours till 11 pm, provided a well-argumented push to certain respectable artists and critics to consider the project in a world context.

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njemaËkoj rijeËi lauba, koja u prijevodu znaËi liπÊe), a druπtvena igra u kojoj je sudjelovao, i koja je bila natjecateljska, sastojala se u tome da djeËaci obiu laubu penjuÊi se po kroπnjama stabala, ali tako da pri tome ne dotaknu zemlju. Sentimentalna veza jednoga posve novog tipa kolekcionara, kakav je Tomislav KliËko, provukla se tako skroz do temelja i æbuke impresivnog zdanja koje je on podigao u nekadaπnjoj jahaonici austrougarske vojske, koja je 1924. prerasla u Tekstilni kombinat Zagreb, a na posljetku je, ruπevna i napuπtena, ali sa statusom zaπtiÊenog spomenika industrijske arhitekture, postala vlasniπtvom Tomislava KliËka.

S ulice, najprije se na Laubi zapaæa crna boja njezina proËelja i crna stakla, jer okvirno to je htio investitor KliËko. No, ipak, dvojeÊi, pitao je arhitekticu Moranu VlahoviÊ kakva bi to crna boja trebala biti. Za arhitekticu VlahoviÊ postavljeno pitanje bilo je samo joπ jedan dokaz da su razlozi za ovu kuÊu mnogo dublji i drukËiji od træiπno uobiËajenih. TragajuÊi za bojom koja bi bila crnja od crne ili crna s dodatnom vrijednoπÊu - poæeljeli smo kuÊu zaliti u bitumen, otkrila je arhitektica, dakako, uz napomenu da su se, kako se to nije moglo doslovno napraviti, posluæili kompromisnim rjeπenjem: izabrali su boju koja se sjaji kao bitumen. Izvorno proËelje s pilasterima, sada u crnom sjaju, kao i cijela Lauba izvana i iznutra, stvorili su, po sudu arhitektice Morane VlahoviÊ, zaËudnu situaciju u kojoj se zapravo uspjeπno propituje suæivot proπlosti i sadaπnjosti. Uz to, da bi izbjegli atmosferu sterilne jedinice intenzivne njege, na koju bijeli galerijski zidovi asociraju, pa se onda Ëini kao da su izloπci prikljuËeni za respirator, kako je to slikovito rekla arhitektica VlahoviÊ, kuÊu sa stotinu æivota i slojeva dala je iznutra oljuπtiti do gole koæe, odnosno do cigle, Ëime je pokazala zateËeno bogatstvo i zatim ga odjenula u sveËanu odjeÊu, aluminij. Zbog programske koncepcije svakog mjeseca izloæba jedna, odluËila se za montaæno-demontaæne panele, koji se mogu postavljati na razliËite naËine, na zidu, podu, kombinirati se s opekom… i tim stalnim mijenama i izmjenama aluminijskih panela, otkrivat Êe se povijesni sloj kuÊe, πto je i bio cilj: da se kuÊa i zbirka neprestano igraju, a to je opet joπ jedan oËit dokaz, naglasila je arhitektica Morana VlahoviÊ, da su sjeÊanja na investitorove igre na laubi u djetinjstvu naziv i lajtmotiv cijelog projekta.

Viπe od petsto djela suvremenih hrvatskih umjetnika zbirke Filip Trade izlagat Êe se u tzv. nestalnom postavu, po sekvencijama, a uz njih Êe se, istodobno, tj. usporedno, odvijati druge izloæbe i kulturna dogaanja 46

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interaktivnog programa, koji je planiran tako da omoguÊava neposredan kontakt umjetnika i njihovih kritiËara, umjetnika i njihovih poπtovalaca. Nakon izloæbi, neka Êe se djela moÊi iznajmljivati, popularno reËeno rentati.

Zanimljivo je takoer istaknuti da se u KuÊi za umjetnost i ljude organiziraju i Laubice, besplatne radionice za djecu. Uza sve to, multidisciplinarnosti kuÊe pridonijet Êe suradnja s knjiæevnicima, glazbenicima, filmskim i drugim kreativnim autorima.

Najstarije je djelo zbirke Filip Trade skulptura Bare s kokoπi iz 1949. najslavnijega hrvatskog æivuÊeg umjetnika Ivana KoæariÊa, koji je veÊ tada oznaËio prekretnicu, stvorivπi odvaæno i beskompromisno svoga poratnog heroja. U zbirci su i remek-djela Vlade Kristla, Otona Glihe, Ive Gattina i nekih drugih klasika te recentna djela Lovre ArtukoviÊa, Ivane Franko, Zlatka Kopljara, Davida MaljkoviÊa, Zlatana VehaboviÊa, Silvija VujiËiÊa, Matka VekiÊa, Ivana FijoliÊa, opÊepoznatoga po izradi kipa Brucea Leeja u Mostaru, Duje Rufa, Kristijana Koæula…

Od prof.dr.sc. Zvonka MakoviÊa, povjesiËara umjetnosti, autora dvadesetak struËnih knjiga i knjiga iz knjiæevnosti, Ëovjeka od vlastitog talenta, osobito pjesniËkoga, i jednoga od glavnih arbitara suvremene hrvatske umjetnosti i kulture, doznajemo da se Lauba postupno profilirala kao zbirka generacija koje su stasale prije petnaestak godina. U zbirku su ulazili kao neafirmirani umjetnici, neki i kao studenti, a danas predstavljaju najznaËajnije autore hrvatske umjetnosti na prijelazu dva stoljeÊa, ocijenio je prof. MakoviÊ, naglaπavajuÊi: - To πto je otvorena privatna KuÊa za umjetnost i ljude i πto su u njoj smjeπtene stotine mladih autora, glavnih predstavnika suvremene hrvatske umjetniËke scene, vaæno je zbog muzeoloπkoga i πirega kulturnog aspekta.

Naime, poticanjem tzv. privatne inicijative u umjetnosti, kao πto su, primjerice, galerije, muzeji ili kuÊe umjetnosti, kakva je Lauba, stvara se nova praksa koja moæe imati dalekoseæne pozitivne posljedice za Ëitavu naπu kulturu: i πto se tiËe postizanja nove kvalitete, i πto se tiËe muzejske strategije. Konkretno, u Laubi se nalaze djela koja se ne mogu naÊi ni u jednome muzeju jednostavno zato πto je vlasnik zbirke Tomislav KliËko bio vrlo pronicljiv i πto je kupovao djela za koja drugi nisu bili u pravo vrijeme zainteresirani. Osim toga, to πto je on kupovao neπto πto su drugi propustili kupiti ili u Ëijim autorima nisu prepoznali Ëak ni potencijal, a to je u meuvremenu izraslo u priliËne referencije, govori i o karakteru, profilu kolekcionara, o njegovim, da tako kaæem,

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umjetniËkim refleksima, ali isto tako govori i o prednostima koju ta zbirka ima. Ono πto bi trebali imati nacionalni muzeji, smjeπteno je u Muzeju Lauba, i to je neusporediva prednost.

Prema prosudbi prof. Zvonka MakoviÊa, situacija je iπla na ruku i umjetnicima i zbirci koja je okupila autore Ëija djela danas predstavljaju nezaobilazne i vrhunske domete.

- Ovdje nije rijeË o pukom kolekcioniranju.

Autori nisu ulazili u zbirku sluËajno, nego je njezin vlasnik, prepoznavajuÊi u njima neπto zanimljivo, na razliËite naËine poticao njihovo stvaralaπtvo: sustavnim otkupljivanjem njihovih djela, svojevrsnim stipendijama, natjeËajima, nagradama i nizom drugih stimulansa.

Zbirka je dobro smišljeni projekt koji ne raËuna na trenutaËno isticanje, nego na dugoroËnost.

Autori su se, na temelju dogovora s vlasnikom zbirke, osjeÊali zaπtiÊenima, osiguranima. Na raËun vlasnika, odlazili su na znaËajne izloæbe koje su uËvrπÊivale njihove stavove i podizale ih. Prema tome, Lauba je zaista rijedak sluËaj koji svjedoËi da privatna inicijativa u krizi opÊih vrijednosti, osobito u krizi opÊemuzejske prakse, ima i te kakav razlog - zakljuËio je prof. Zvonko MakoviÊ. No, kao πto zbirka nije nastala sluËajnim odabirom, ni adresa Laube nije sluËajna. Oko Laube veÊ je gradiliπte projektiranoga novoga stambeno-poslovnog centra, kompleksa »rnomerec centar, koji bi trebao biti zavrπen do 2015. g. Nova KuÊa za ljude i umjetnost bit Êe, nedvojbeno, ne samo æila-kucavica toga kompleksa, te gradske Ëetvrti i, opÊenito, Zagreba, nego i daljih, dalekih prostranstava. Na posljetku, tko je mogao slutiti da Êe lauba iz Vrbovca tako obiljeæiti djetinjstvo jednog Ëovjeka i nadahnuti ga da svoj kapital uloæi u dobrobit hrvatske suvremene umjetnosti, mladih umjetnika, ali i u misiju osvjetljavanja obraza ■ kolekcionara. s explained by the curator Vanja Æanko, Lauba - People and Art House is unique as it is a dynamic and alive space that consolidates different forms of business, different lifestyles and working rhythms. Located at Baruna FilipoviÊa 23, in the morning company offices function and operate, and in the afternoon and evening - art takes over, that is, people who live from art and for art, in whatever way they or their needs and work manifest. The holdings of the Lauba collection contain masterpieces of contemporary Croatian art classics, but mostly works by artists at the turn of the century, the so called middle and youngest generation, whose development and creation was very much supported by Tomislav KliËko,

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a collector and the investor in the project.

More than twenty years ago, when Tomislav KliËko started his profiling as a collector, he sent a message that he wouldn’t get caught in the traps of stereotypes; thus, it is no wonder he named his project Lauba and that he set a major objective for it: to be a place for experiencing, learning, entertainment and social interaction. By doing so we might say that KliËko paid homage to his childhood and growing up in Vrbovec, where a circular tree-lined path is called lauba (most probably originating from the German word lauba meaning leaves), and to a game he participated in which was played in the form of a competition between boys who were supposed to circle around lauba and climb to the tops of the trees, without touching the ground.

That sentimental bond, displayed by an entirely new type of collector, such as Tomislav KliËko, was quite clearly accentuated. It was even seen in the foundations and plaster of an impressive edifice he built in an old riding arena of the Austro-Hungarian army, which was transformed into the Zagreb Textile Mill in 1942. Ruinous and deserted, but enjoying the status of a protected monument of industrial architecture, it ended up in Tomislav KliËko’s ownership.

Looking at Lauba from the street, the first thing that catches the eye is the façade’s black colour and black glass, and this was roughly what the investor KliËko wanted.

However, somewhat doubtful, he had asked the architect Morana VlahoviÊ to explain what kind of black colour this was supposed to be. To architect VlahoviÊ, this question was yet another piece of evidence that the reasons behind this house dug a lot deeper than the usual market demands. Searching for a colour that was blacker than black or black with added value - we wanted to coat the house with bitumen, revealed the architect. Of course, this was impossible to carry out, so they decided to compromise - they chose a colour that glistened as bitumen. The original pillared façade finished off with a black varnish, as well as the entire Lauba from the outside and on the inside, created a wondrous situation in which the coexistence of present and past is actually successfully questioned, says Morana VlahoviÊ, the architect. In addition, the house with a hundred lives and layers had been stripped down naked to the skin, that is to the brick, in order to avoid the atmosphere of a sterile intensive care unit that white gallery walls are usually associated with, which makes it seems as if the exhibits are on a respirator, as architect VlahoviÊ figuratively

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put it. This enabled her to show pre-existing richness and then dress it in classy attire: aluminium. Due to the program concept of having one exhibition every month, she decided to have montage/de-montage panels that could be installed in different ways; on walls, on the floor, combined with brick…and with the continuing changes and alterations of the aluminium panels, the goal to gradually reveal the historical layer of the house would be achieved: to make the house and the collection play constantly, which is again another apparent evidence that the investor’s memories of playing on lauba during his

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childhood are the title and the leitmotiv of the overall project, as architect Morana VlahoviÊ pointed out.

More than five hundred works by contemporary Croatian artists brought together in the Filip Trade collection will be exhibited in sequences in the so called non-permanent exhibition. In addition to these sequences, other exhibitions and cultural events which are part of the interactive program will take place at the same time or in parallel. The program has been designed so as to enable direct contact between the artists and their critics, as well as the artists and their admirers. After the exhibitions, some of the works will be available to rent, as it is popularly called. It is also interesting that the People and Art House offers Laubice, free workshops for children.

In addition, the multidisciplinary nature of this house will be added to by way of cooperation with writers, musicians, film and other creative authors.

The oldest work in the Filip Trade collection is the Bara with a Chicken sculpture from 1949 by the oldest Croatian living artist, Ivan KoæariÊ, who as early as then had already marked the turning point by creating his postwar hero in a bold and uncompromising way.

The collection also includes masterpieces

by Vlado Kristl, Oton Gliha, Ivo Gattin and some other classics, as well as recent works

by Lovro ArtukoviÊ, Ivana Franko, Zlatko Kopljar, David MaljkoviÊ, Zlatan VehaboviÊ, Silvije VujiËiÊ, Matko VekiÊ, Ivan FijoliÊ, who is commonly known for his Bruce Lee statue in Mostar, Duje Ruf, Kristijan Koæul…

According to Zvonko MakoviÊ Ph.D., art historian, author of approximately twenty expert and literature books, a man of his own talent, especially poetic, and one of the chief arbiters of contemporary Croatian art and culture, Lauba has been gradually profiled as a collection of generations that grew up some fifteen years ago. They joined the collection as nonaffirmed artists, some even as students, and today they are the most prominent authors of Croatian art at the turn of the century, as professor MakoviÊ evaluated. He went on to point out: - The fact that a private People and Art House has been opened and that hundreds of young authors, major representatives of the contemporary Croatian art scene, have found their place here is important from the aspect of museums, but also from a wider aspect. By encouraging a so called private initiative in art, such as for example galleries, museums or art houses such as Lauba, a new practice is being created, a practice that can

have far-reaching positive consequences for our entire culture: both in terms of reaching a new level of quality and a new strategy for museums. Specifically, Lauba contains works that cannot be found in any other museum for a simple reason - Tomislav KliËko, owner of the collection, was very shrewd and he bought works that others were not interested in at the right moment. Besides that, the fact that he bought something that others missed out on buying, or authors whose potential they did not recognise which became a reference with time, speaks of the character and profile of the collector himself; his artistic reflexes, so to say, but also of the advantages of this collection. The Lauba Museum contains works that should be exhibited by national museums, and this is an unparalleled advantage.

Professor Zvonko MakoviÊ’s opinion is that the situation favours both the artists themselves and the collection which brought together authors whose works today represent an unavoidable reach of the highest calibre.

- This is not a case of mere collecting. Authors have not entered the collection on accident, but rather its owner, recognising something interesting in them, enticed their creation in different ways: by systematically buying up their works, with certain scholarships, competitions, awards and many other stimulants.

The collection is a well designed project which does not rely on emphasising the moment, but rather on being long-term. On the other hand, authors felt protected and ensured owing to their arrangement with the owner of the collection. Thanks to the owner, they went to significant exhibitions that strengthened their attitudes and raised them to a higher level. Accordingly, Lauba is indeed a rare case of a testimony to the fact that private initiative in times of crisis of common values, especially the crisis of general-muse practice, has a well-based cause - concluded professor Zvonko MakoviÊ.

However, as the collection did not originate just by random selection, neither is Lauba’s address accidental. Lauba is surrounded by a construction site for a new residential and business centre; the »rnomerec Centre complex to be completed by the end of 2015. The new People and Art House will undoubtedly not only be the lifeline of this complex, district and Zagreb in general, but of more distant and far away areas. Finally, who could have guessed that lauba from Vrbovec would so profoundly mark the childhood of one man and inspire him to invest his capital in the well-being of Croatian contemporary art and young artists, but also in the mission to win honours for other ■ collectors.

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Piše/By Dubravka Belas Fotografije/Photos Robert RajtiÊ

ozite li se nedjeljom prijepodne tramvajem od glavnoga trga prema zapadu i iz razglasa zaËujete sljedeÊa stanica - Britanski trg, siite bez razmiπljanja.

NaÊi Êete se na svakako najzagrebaËkijemu od svih zagrebaËkih trgova, mjestu na kojemu se uæurbana Ilica sreÊe sa Ëetiri sjeverna smjera koji vode do otmjenih rezidencijalnih Ëetvrti. Te su zlatne ulice okruæene starim vilama s vrtovima, mnoge s potpisom znamenitih hrvatskih arhitekata, sagraene na zelenim breæuljcima, nekadaπnjim vinogradima i voÊnjacima te πumama u koje se nekad davno iπlo skupljati gljive i kestenje - na PantovËaku s Prekriæjem, Zelengaju s Kraljevcem, Tuπkancu sa Cmrokom i Rokovim perivojem, koji zatvara krug spuπtajuÊi se Aleksandrovim stubama ponovno do Tuπkanca i Ilice.

Trg je u danaπnjem obliku sagraen u 19. stoljeÊu, u dolini nekadaπnjeg potoka Kraljevca i do danas je zadræao svoju viπestruku namjenu, prometnu, trgovaËku, ugostiteljsku, druπtvenu....I dok su drugi gradski trgovi, predvieni za uzviπenije namjene, sa svojih povrπina uklonili i preselili trænice, oslobodivπi ih za πetnje i raznovrsne priredbe, koncerte, doËeke vrhunskih sportskih zvijezda, politiËke proslave i prosvjede, dotle je Britanac ili Mali plac, IliËki trg, kako ga i danas nazivaju stariji ZagrepËani, zadræao tu svoju svakodnevnu, obiËnu, utilitarnu crtu, prometa i placa, jutarnje trgovine i popodnevnoga sastajaliπta.

I tako se veÊ viπe od stotinu godina klupe svaki dan sklanjaju kako bi prostor trænice popodne prepustile πetaËima. Nekad su

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tu Ëak postojali klupari, pomoÊnici koji su se brinuli za iznoπenje i sklapanje i, poslije, raspremanje klupa. Osim toga posla, bili su zaduæeni i za orezivanje kroπnji drvoreda koji se protezao PantovËakom, sve do danaπnje osnovne πkole, poslije poruπenoga kad se ta nekoÊ uska ulica proπirivala. Za svoje stalno mjesto pod suncem u toplije doba godine izborile su se ipak terase kavana, pod Ëijim se velikim suncobranima, neovisno o trænici, cijeloga dana moæe popiti dobra kava ili proËitati novine.

Dugo je Mali plac bio tek najπiri dio potoka Kraljevca koji je s obronaka Medvednice tekao prema Ilici i otuda i njegov sadaπnji nepravilan oblik. Na srediπnjoj je plohi nekoÊ bila parna pilana s malom tvornicom parketa. Zatim je iza stare ograde naπla mjesto Hrvatska eskomptna banka i zelena trænica na otvorenome, koja se odræala do danas. Isprva je bila specijalizirana za perad, kako πirom ponudom ne bi konkurirala trænici u glavnom gradu. Æiva se perad ovamo dovozila u koπarama od pruÊa, a trgovci su morali poπtivati propise i ljeti osiguravati svjeæu vodu kokicama, puricama, patkama i guskama dok su ove Ëekale da ih odaberu zagrebaËke domaÊice. Tek je na zahtjev okolnoga stanovniπtva ponuda proπirena i na voÊe i povrÊe kako se po to ne bi moralo odlaziti sve do Trga bana JelaËiÊa.

I nekako su baπ volja tih stanovnika, njihovo æivo pravo zajednice, toga iliËkoga Gemeinschafta, saËuvali trg ovakvim kakav je danas.

Mali je plac, kako mu to staro i joπ i danas popularno ime kaæe, doista nevelik, pa sve-

Vozite li se nedjeljom prijepodne tramvajem Ilicom od glavnoga trga prema zapadu i iz razglasa zaËujete sljedeÊa stanica - Britanski trg, siite bez razmiπljanja. NaÊi Êete se na svakako najzagrebaËkijemu od svih zagrebaËkih trgova - Britancu ili Malom placu ili IliËkom trgu, kako ga i danas nazivaju stariji ZagrepËani. Najviπe je za æivot na Britancu posljednjih godina uËinio nedjeljni sajam antikviteta.

If you are riding on a westbound tram from Zagreb’s main square on a Sunday, and you hear through the speakers, next stop Britanski Trg (British Square), do not hesitate to get off. You will find yourself in the most Zagrebian of all Zagreb’s squares, the popular Britanac, The Little Square, or Ilica Square as the older citizens of Zagreb still tend to call it.

Over the past few years, the Sunday antiques fair has done the biggest favour to the liveliness of British Square.

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jedno zadovoljava viπe namjena i potreba toga dijela grada. On je vaæno prometno raskriæje, tu je stajaliπte tramvaja i taksija, a nae se pokoje mjesto i za parkiranje. U staroj jednokatnici joπ je smjeπten dugovjeËni poπtanski ured, neπto niæe niz Ilicu prekrasna je secesijska ljekarna, a na juænom dijelu joπ i danas ima starih zanatlijskih radnji duboko uvuËenih u veæe i dvoriπta. Tu su male kavane i prodavaonica ponajboljih delikatesa sa svih strana svijeta. U lijepoj ugaonoj zgradi na kriæanju s PantovËakom joπ je ugledna glazbena πkola, a na uglu s Rokovom ulicom, na mjestu nekadaπnje mesnice niz Ëije se velike staklene izloge slijevala voda osvjeæavajuÊi je i hladeÊi je u doba kad joπ nisu postojali ureaji 56

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za klimatizaciju, mjesto je pronaπla banka.

Veliki je supermarket na Ëitavome iliËkom uglu palaËe Gross davno zamijenio nekadaπnju trgovinu Juliusa Meinla, iz koje se nadaleko πirio miris fine præene kave.

I danas, svakoga dana osim nedjelje, pod raπirenim suncobranima na πestinsku, kumice, æene iz gradske okolice, nude vlastite proizvode. NekoÊ su ih u narodnim noπnjama i u velikim koπarama, poloæenima na smotuljak tkanine, donosile na svojim glavama, ponajprije domaÊi svjeæi sir s vrhnjem, taj zaπtitni znak zagrebaËkih trænica, zatim stoæaste prgice, malo prosuπeni sir s crvenom paprikom, ukusna jaja kokoπi koje joπ trËkaraju dvoriπtima, sezonsko voÊe i povrÊe iz svojih vrtova. Tim se vrijednim æenama tek nedavno odalo priznanje za stoljetne zasluge u opskrbi velikoga grada, postavljanjem spomenika bezimenoj kumici uz dolaËku trænicu. Nae se ovdje starih sorti jabuka, od soËnih crvenih boæiÊnica i ciganËica do aromatiËnih jesenskih kanada opore kore, pa slatkih domaÊih marelica i finih treπanja iz πestinskih i okiÊkih vrtova. VeÊ prema sezoni, nude se i samonikli plodovi, od ukusnih divljih πparoga, mirisnih πumskih jagoda, borovnica i kupina, do sljemenskih kestena i gljiva, ljevkastih æutih lisiËarki i ponekog smrËka, trbuπastih jesenskih vrganja s klobucima boje Ëokolade. Sve te tikvice, buËe i bundeve, hrskave salate, πpinati i blitve, rajËice kakve nigdje drugdje viπe ne moæete naÊi, divovski ljubiËasti grah od kojega se s buËinim uljem prave salate, njeæne vezice prvih mladih mrkvica, paperjaste vlati kopra ili perπina. I, dakako, neizbjeæne vezice grincajga, tog kompleta, juπne kite, potpurija od korijenja mrkve, celera, perπina, korabice, te poriluka, izrezanoga i sloæenoga za upotrebu u jednom loncu ukusne juhe. I, razumljivo, onih nekoliko prepoznatljivih πtandova s cvijeÊem, u kantama napunjenima vodom iz æeljezne crpke koja joπ i danas dobro radi - ivanËice æutih oËiju, naranËasti dnevni ljiljani, tamnoplavi jediÊi, sve te ljubice i jaglaci i πafrani i kukurijeci nabrani na obroncima Medvednice, sve te krupne glave bijelih i crvenih boæura, opojnoga i slatkog mirisa, izraslih u kuÊnim vrtovima. »ini se da je svako ureivanje Britanca moralo Ëekati neku osobitu priliku - tako je na primjer prvi put ureen, makar samo provizorno i djelomiËno, davne 1888. godine, kad je baπ tu vizuru trebalo malo uπminkati za posjet austrougarskog princa Rudolfa Habsburπkoga, zanemarenoga carevog sina osjetljivih æivaca i snaænog osjeÊaja duænosti, onoga istoga kojega je carski otac Franjo Josip smatrao viπe suparnikom nego saveznikom, istoga koji Êe se godinu dana poslije ustrijeliti u Mayerlingu, πto Êe s obzirom na kolateralnu

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©arm starih stvari teπko je dokuËiv. Raene u doba kad je vrijeme bilo posve drugaËija kategorija, one su poput starih prijatelja koji nas uvijek podsjete na to da je bespovratno izgubljen samo onaj dan u kojemu se nismo stigli diviti æivotu.

It is not easy to account for the charm of old things. Made in an era when time was an entirely different category, they are like old friends that always remind us that a day is forever lost only if we have not made the time in it to marvel the life.

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ærtvu, malu Mariju VeËeru, dati sentimentalni spin Ëitavoj priËi. Prvi je put nadsvoen, dakle, u prestolonasljednikovu Ëast, neuredni i neugledni potok Kraljevac, dobivena je povrπina poπljunËana i zasaen drvored. Nije poznato kakav je dojam tako ureeni trg ostavio na mladog Habsburga, ali zato su ZagrepËani bili jednostavno oduπevljeni i javni je æivot trga svakako uznapredovao.

Zanimljivo je kako za temeljito ureenje i obnovu Malog placa nikad nije nedostajalo projekata i nacrta, ali zato je uvijek nedostajalo novca. PosljediËno, ti se projekti na kraju ne bi ni ostvarili, pa je Ëak i onaj plan slavnoga Lenucija, πto je predvidio tzv. Sjajnu cestu, πiroku aveniju koja bi vodila s Britanca potoËnom dolinom prema Zelengaju na sjeveru, proveden samo djelomiËno.

Na neki je naËin to i sreÊa, jer sve se popravljalo tek toliko da moæe nastaviti funkcionirati, pa su trg i njegova okolina ostajali netaknuti, po mjeri i potrebi stanovnika, onakvi kakvi su se prirodno i postupno sami formirali. Na mjestu Sjajne ceste danas je izmeu dviju prometnica ostala poploËena ploha u sredini i dvostruki drvored, hladovit prostor za πetnju, s nekoliko zdenaca. Na æalost, ne viπe i s ribnjakom u kojemu su nekad lelujale zlatne i crvene ribe. Radikalni su zahvati izostali, IliËki je trg ostao prepoznatljiv, kao na starim slikama, nedodirnut nespretnom i nasilnom modernizacijom ili devastiran pojedinaËnim interesom kao πto se dogodilo nekim drugim gradskim trgovima. Da, pomalo zapuπten, ali zato niπta manje omiljen. S propaπÊu projekta velebne zatvorene trænice staklenoga krova s poËetka stoljeÊa, preostao je samo draæestan secesijski paviljon na juænome dijelu trga, s besplatnim javnim zahodom u kojem je s vanjske strane nekad bila Ëekaonica tramvaja, a danas su tu novinarnica i telefonska govornica.

Duh austrijske vedre apokalipse, kako Hermann Broch naziva doba u kojemu se oblikuje i ovaj mali trg, u kojemu se Carstvo na svome izdisaju prometnulo u klijaliπte novih, Ëesto opreËnih stavova, vladao je ovdje u tipiËno podvojenom ozraËju, rasutom izmeu reda i discipline i onoga πto ZagrepËani i danas zovu πlamperajem. Sve je to preæivjela, poput ribe u vodi, niËim dotaknuta purgerska mikrosociologija Malog placa.

Britanac tako nastavlja dalje bez nekih velikih promjena, jedino je umjesto kina u koje se ulazilo s Ilice, a izlazilo kroz veæu na Britancu, danas kazaliπte - histrionski dugo iπËekivan dom glumaca nomada. Na uglu s Ilicom, umjesto knjiga i hamera i paus papira u arcima, sad se prodaje ekskluzivan namjeπtaj. SlastiËarnica u kojoj su djeca na povratku iz πkole dijelila kesten pire sa πlagom ili kremu od malina viπe

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nije tu, ali s druge je strane trga otvorena nova.

Neke nove kolaËe ondje danas valjda dijele neki novi klinci. Pomaknut je i kiosk u kojemu se zimi mogu naruËiti kobasice sa senfom, tu je danas joπ jedan koji nudi coffee to go, na snebivanje pravih kavanskih πmekera. Odmah uz tramvajsku postaju joπ odolijeva stari peËenjar kukuruza i kestena. Sve je nekako isto, ne baπ velegradski dotjerano, ali tako blisko, tako ugodno, tako poznato.

No najviπe je za æivot na Britancu posljednjih godina uËinio nedjeljni sajam antikviteta. Od ranoga se jutra, bez obzira na moguÊu æegu ili studen, slijevaju na Britanac radoznali posjetitelji i traæi se mjesto viπe na okolnim terasama.

Teπko je dokuËiv taj πarm starih stvari i nipoπto 60

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se ne moæe ciniËki definirati samo parvenijevskom æeljom za boljom legitimacijom osobnih proπlosti. Stare su stvari poput fotografija, svjedoËanstvo jednoga izgubljenog vremena, samo su manje oËigledne od njih. Zbog znanja, vjeπtine i ljubavi onih koji su ih izradili, postali su jedinstveni. Raeni u doba kad je vrijeme bilo posve drugaËija kategorija, u njih je ugraena i ljubav onih koji su ih, meu svim drugim stvarima, odabirali i godinama upotrebljavali, nasuprot danaπnjim stvarima koje se viπe ne popravljaju, nego se, potroπene u jednoj ili dvije sezone, bacaju. I ne, nema u njima nikakve negativne energije, ne vjerujte u te priËe, kao πto ne vjerujete ni da fotografija otima duπu portretiranima. Stvari, ma koliko bile lijepe i skupocjene, ravnoduπne su, kao

priroda, u kojoj se bez kraja i konca prepliÊu sunËani dani i oluje, bez naπe volje i udjela i mogu zraËiti samo ljepotom i finoÊom izrade.

Nedjeljni sajam antikviteta na Britancu okupit Êe, uz sluËajne namjernike, i svoje stalne, strastvene poklonike, od poznavatelja do onih koji samo vole lijepo. Stalni prodavaËi, πarmantni zagrebaËki staretinari, sa svojim stalnim mjestima, Ëesto su specijalizirani za odreeno podruËje i daju sajmu gotovo obiteljsko ozraËje. Ta nedjeljna dogaanja za koje je trg gotovo trenutaËno postao pretijesan, podijeljen je preπutno dogovorenim rasterom. Rubovi ploËnika uglavnom sluæe za izlaganje stilskog namjeπtaja - naÊi Êete ovdje baroknih komoda, altdeutsch-kredenaca, vrijednih secesijskih komada, intarziranih konzola i stoliÊa, bidermajer naslonjaËa, thonet-stolaca, art déco-vitrina.

Uz fantazijsko murano zrcalo, engleske ure kaminke, uz stare brodske fenjere, kompase i sekstante, uz sedefom i bjelokosti inkrustiranu perzijsku kutiju, stoje prvi hladionici, πkrinje u Ëije se komore ulagalo blokove leda dostavljene zapreænim kolima. Uza stari nakit, prodaju se i njegove replike, a izloæene su i doista vrijedne numizmatiËke i filatelistiËke zbirke. Trbuπasti emajlirani Ëajnici, krletka za ptice iz Tunisa, pisaÊi stroj iz Philadelphije, panama πeπiri, stari skupocjeni Êilimi, knjige posljednji put Ëitane prije stotinu godina, stare fotografije i razglednice, tintarnice od mramora i kristala, zlatni pisaÊi pribor. »ipke su ovdje joπ pjenuπave, porculan tanak i krhak poput ljuske jajeta, a meu akvarelima i uljima moguÊe je joπ pronaÊi poneko poznato ime. SeljaËka platna od lana i konoplje, stare igraËke, upotrebni predmeti svakodnevnog æivota skupljani po zagrebaËkoj okolici, Ëesto su dostojni stalnih postava etnografskog muzeja. Izloæeni su jedan do drugog skupocjeni i novËano posve beznaËajni artefakti, umjetniËka djela i puki kiË, a opet svi ispunjavaju svoju svrhu - da se nekomu svide, da nekoga razvesele i uljepπaju mu prostor.

Potvruje se ovdje da su antikviteti Ëesto ono πto jedan naraπtaj kupuje, Ëega se druga generacija rjeπava, a treÊa ponovno kupuje.

I doista, nema ovdje predmeta koji nekomu neÊe kad-tad zatrebati. Netko ih je odbacio, netko drugi saËuvao, oteo zaboravu i propasti. »ekajuÊi svoj sretni trenutak, izloæeni su baπ ovdje gdje su moæda nekad i nastali ili bili rabljeni, u visokim, lijepim stanovima uokolo trga, joπ dok su bili posve novi - i zgrade, i stvari, i trg.

I tako se svakoga nedjeljnog jutra pravi antikviteti i puka brokanterija vade iz prtljaænika, kombija i prikolica, iznose na sunce i slaæu na klupama, a onda ondje, ne sluteÊi, i

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nehotice ispisuju kronologiju graanskoga, druπtvenoga, intelektualnog æivota starog Zagreba. Katkad se, kad sajam opusti, a trg poËnu preuzimati ËistaËi, neprodane onamo i vraÊaju. Bez velikog razoËaranja, jer zarada nije uvijek najbitnija, osobito ne na sajmu antikviteta na Britancu.

Ondje nas lijepe stare stvari, poput starih prijatelja, uvijek podsjete na to da je bespovratno izgubljen samo dan u kojemu se nismo stigli diviti æivotu.

■ f you are riding on a westbound tram from Zagreb’s main square on a Sunday, and you hear through the speakers, next stop Britanski Trg (British Square), do not hesitate to get off. You will find yourself in the most typical of all Zagreb’s squares, the place

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where busy Ilica Street intersects with four northbound streets which lead to upscale residential neighbourhoods. Those golden streets are framed with old villas with gardens, many of which were designed by famous Croatian architects. They were built on green slopes, among former vineyards and orchards, in the woods where people flocked to pick mushrooms and chestnuts: PantovËak with Prekriæje, Zelengaj with Kraljevac, Tuπkanac with Cmrok and Rokov Perivoj, which closes the circle as you go down Aleksander’s Staircase which leads back to Tuπkanac and Ilica.

In its present form, the square dates back to the 19th century when it was constructed in the valley of the former Kraljevac Stream. To this very day the square still has multiple uses: a traffic hub and a centre of trade, and it has

always been associated with good food and social happenings. While farmer’s markets have been ousted from other city squares to make room for somewhat loftier uses such as leisurely strolls and various events including concerts, welcoming receptions for sports stars, political rallies and protests, the popular Britanac, The Little Square, or Ilica Square as the older citizens of Zagreb still tend to call it, has kept its mundane, utilitarian character as a busy thoroughfare where you can do your food shopping in the morning and in the afternoon get together with friends. For over a hundred years, the benches have been put away every day to make the square acquiescent for afternoon strollers. In the past, people called benchers were in charge of bringing benches to the square and later on removing and stacking them neatly away. In addition to their everyday bench arranging duties, they were also responsible for pruning the tops of the trees that used to line PantovËak all the way up to the current elementary school. The trees had to go when the street was widened.

Café terraces have firmly secured their places under the sun. They remain open all day, and not only during the market hours. You can always count on finding a seat under their big umbrellas to savour a lovely cup of coffee while reading the daily papers.

For a long time, The Little Square was barely more than the widest part of the Kraljevac Stream bed. The stream meandered down from the slopes of Mt. Medvednica towards Ilica, which explains the square’s oddly irregular shape. A steam-powered sawmill with a small parquet factory once stood in the middle of the area. Then, the Croatian Eskontna Bank found its place behind an old fence, soon to be followed by an open air farmers’ market, the same one that has kept its place here until this very day. At first the market specialized in poultry - since a wider range of products would not have been able to compete with the market in the main square. Live poultry was transported to the market in wicker baskets, while traders had to comply with strict rules: in the summer they had to provide enough fresh drinking water for their chickens, turkeys, ducks and geese that were waiting to be chosen by the housewives of Zagreb for their next meal.

As a result of public demand, the range of products was broadened to include fruit and vegetables: shoppers simply refused to go all the way to JelaËiÊ Square to get those things.

It was the strong will of the citizens, their civil rights association, the Gemeinschaft of Ilica that has preserved the square in its present shape. True to its favourite pet name, The

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Little Square is really not big; but it seems big enough to meet several needs and purposes in that part of the city. It is an important traffic hub with tram and taxi stands; if you are lucky, you can even find a place to park your own car there. An old one-storey building still houses a long-standing post office; a bit further down Ilica is a pharmacy in splendid Viennese secession style; in the southern part of the square one can still find some old crafts and artisan shops living their quiet lives deep in the courtyards and alleyways. There is a host of little cafes and stores that offer the finest delicacies from all over the world. The beautiful building on the corner with PantovËak Street houses a reputable music school; a bank has found its home on the corner with Rokova Street, in the place of a former butcher’s shop whose large shop windows were cooled by streams of running water in the years before air-conditioning. A big supermarket occupies the entire ground floor of the Gross Palace on the corner with Ilica. That was a one-time Julius Meinl store from which the tantalizing fragrance of freshly roasted coffee spread far afield. Every day except Sunday, kumice, women from the environs of Zagreb, offer their own produce under the ©estine-style umbrellas. In the past they used to bring their fares in large wicker baskets which sat firmly on their heads on rings of twisted cloth. The goodies they offered primarily included freshly made cottage cheese and sour cream, the quintessential trademarks of Zagreb’s markets, prgice, lightly dried cheese cones seasoned with sweet red paprika powder; tasteful eggs laid by free-range chickens; and seasonal fruit and vegetables from their gardens. These hardworking women waited a long time to receive the recognition they positively deserved for the centuries of hard work in supplying a large city with food: a monument to an anonymous kumica has recently been erected near Dolac Market. Here you can find older sorts of apples, ranging from succulent red Christmas apples and little gipsies to the fragrant autumn Canadian variety with tough skin, sweet home-grown apricots and delicious cherries from the gardens in ©estine and OkiÊ. Depending on the season, you will find self-grown fruits and vegetables, ranging from delicious wild asparagus, fragrant wild strawberries, blueberries and blackberries, to chestnuts from Sljeme, as well as different kinds of mushrooms including cone-shaped yellowish chanterelles, an occasional morel, and round-bellied autumn cepes with chocolate coloured hats. All those courgettes, pumpkins, gourds, crunchy salads, spinach and Swiss chard, tomatoes of the kind you 64

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cannot find anywhere else, gigantic purple pod pole beans that are used in salads seasoned with pumpkin oil, delicate bunches of early spring carrots, feathery stalks of dill and parsley… And sure enough, the inevitable bunches of grincajg, the complete soup kits, a potpourri made of the roots of carrot, celeriac, parsley, kohlrabi and leak, cut and tied together with a string and used to prepare one pot of delicious soup. There are also the token flower stands, with flowers in buckets filled with the water from the iron street pump which is still in impeccable working order black-eyed daisies, orange cuckoo flowers, dark blue monkshoods, all those violets and primroses and hellebores picked on the slopes of Mt. Medvednica, as well as the bigheaded, white, sweet smelling peonies which are grown at home in the gardens.

It seems that every attempt to redecorate the popular British Square has had to wait for a special occasion to present itself. The first time the square was decorated, albeit only provisionally and partially, was way back in 1888, when it had to undergo a make-over in preparation for a visit by the Austro-Hungarian Prince Rudolf of Habsburg, a neglected imperial son with frail nerves and a strong sense of duty, the one whom the imperial father considered more of a rival than an ally, and also the same one who committed suicide in Mayerling a year later by shooting himself. The collateral victim, little Maria Vetsera, provided a sentimental spin to the entire story. For the first time the unsightly Kraljevac Stream was vaulted in honour of the crown prince’s visit; the surface that was created in the process was lined with trees and covered by gravel.

It remains unknown to this very day what kind of impression the newly redecorated square made on the young descendant of the Hapsburgs, but the citizens of Zagreb were simply delighted and public life in the square experienced an unprecedented surge.

Interestingly enough, there was never a shortage of projects and blueprints to thoroughly renovate and redecorate The Little Square, but there was always a painful lack of funds to bring any of them to fruition. As a result, none of the projects have ever materialized. Even a plan devised by the famous Lenuci, featuring the so-called Splendid Road, a broad avenue that should have followed the course of the stream from British Square to Zelengaj in the north, was implemented only partially.

As with everything in life, the failed attempts to rebuild the square have had their silver lining: the works have been done only to the extent necessary to enable its normal functioning, and so the square and its surroundings have

remained unharmed. They still serve the needs of the citizens quite admirably. The square is just the right size and it has been shaped naturally and gradually following its own design.

Between the two streets is a paved surface and two rows of trees, a shady promenade with several wells, which stand in the place of what would have been the so-called Splendid Road. Sadly enough, long gone is the fish basin where gold and red fish swam in the water. Radical interventions have been avoided, and so Ilica Square has retained its same appearance as in the old picture postcards. It has been spared attempts at gauche and forcible modernization; it has not become a collateral victim of self-serving individual interests as some other squares in the city. Yes, it does seem a bit neglected, but none the less treasured. At the beginning of last century, a project fell through to turn it into a splendid glass-roofed indoor market hall. A modest reminder of that is the charming Viennese secession-style pavilion in the southern part of the square which houses a free-of-charge public toilet. There was once a tram stop next to it; today, there are a news stand and a phone box.

The spirit of the jovial Austrian apocalypse, as Hermann Broch called the period during which this little square assumed its shape, and during which the expiring Empire transformed itself into a breeding ground of new and quite often controversial ideas and thoughts, reigned in these parts in a distinctively split atmosphere; straddled between order and discipline, on the one hand, and laissez-faire or πlamperaj as the citizens of Zagreb like to call it, on the other. The purger micro-sociology of The Little Square survived unscathed, like fish in water.

Thus, the popular Britanac (British Square) goes on, affected by very few changes. One of them took place quite recently: the old cinema one used to enter from Ilica and exit through an enclosed passageway in British Square is now a theatre - a long awaited Histrionic home to nomadic actors. On the corner with Ilica, exclusive furniture and home furnishings are now being sold instead of books and sheets of thick paper and tracing paper. The pastry shop where homebound school children used to share chestnut purée with whipped cream or raspberry syrup is no longer where it used to be, but a new one was opened on the other side of the square and some new kids probably share some new sweet treats there.

The kiosk where you can order sausages with mustard in winter has also been moved. A new one has been opened, selling coffee to go, to

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the dismay of true coffee gourmets. Right next to the tram stop, the old street seller selling corn on the knob and roasted chestnuts still braves the changes. Everything is kind of the same, not overly-developed and glossed over, but rather intimate, comfortable and familiar.

Over the past few years, the Sunday antiques fair has done the biggest favour to the liveliness of British Square. Starting in the early morning hours, in all kinds of weather conditions, in scorching heat or in freezing cold, curious shoppers flock to the square looking to find a chair on one of the café terraces.

It is not easy to account for the charm of old things; there is certainly more to it than a mere desire by the parvenus to present a better public image of their own past, as cynics like to explain an interest in antiques. Old things are like photographs, testimonies to a lost time, only less obvious than photos. The skill and love of the craftsmen turned them into unique objects. They were made in an era when time was an entirely different category; they exude the love of those who had picked them out from among a host of so many other things, and then used them for years. This is so unlike anything mass-produced in our time, when things are not repaired but used for a season or two and then thrown away. You should not fall for the stories which say that old things emanate negative energy, just as you should not believe when somebody tells you that you lose your soul when you have your photo taken. However beautiful and valuable, things are indifferent, just like in nature - where sunny days follow storms, forever and ever, without our will or participation; all they can do is exude beauty and the delicateness of craftsmanship.

The Sunday antique fair in British Square entices a fair number of passersby, as well as passionate aficionados; from true connoisseurs to those who simply love beauty.

The charming old-school antique dealers have their fixed stands and often specialize in some particular segment of the market.

They provide the fair with an almost family-like atmosphere. The square has almost become too small to hold this popular Sunday event.

The traders have an unspoken deal on where to display their wares. The outer edges of the pavement are mostly reserved to showcase antique furniture: you will find baroque chests of drawers, Altdeutsch credenzas, expensive Viennese secession pieces, consoles and occasional tables inlaid with marquetery, Biedermeier sofas, Thonet chairs and Art Deco glass cabinets.

Next to a fantastic Murano glass mirror, there are English mantelpiece clocks, old 66

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ship lanterns, compasses and sextants, a Persian box inlaid with mother of pearl and ebony incrustations, there are also the earliest models of refrigerators, cool boxes for ice that was delivered to households in horse-driven carts. Original antique jewellery pieces live happily next to not so valuable replicas; collectors will find really valuable numismatic and stamp collections. Big-bellied enamelled teapots, bird cages from Tunisia, a typewriter from Philadelphia, Panama hats, old and valuable oriental rugs, books last read a hundred years ago, old photos and picture postcards, inkstands made of marble and crystal glass, golden writing utensils. Here, lacework is still intricate, porcelain thin and as delicate as an eggshell, and among the watercolours and oils on canvases you can find those painted by well known artists. Some of the coarse fabrics made from flax or hemp, old toys, yesteryear things for everyday use collected in villages around Zagreb could easily find their places among the permanent exhibits of ethnographic museums. Priceless artefacts are displayed next to trinkets of little value; works of art are juxtaposed with mere kitsch; nevertheless, all have a purpose - to be liked by somebody, to make somebody happy and fill their homes with beauty. Once again, this fair proves that antiques are often bought by one generation, discarded by the next, and then bought again by the third. Indeed, there is hardly an object here that will not be of some use to somebody some day. Somebody has discarded them; somebody else has preserved them, saved them from oblivion and decay. While waiting for their lucky moment they are on display right here, in the place where they could have been crafted or used in the past, in the highceilinged beautiful apartments back when they were still new - the things, the buildings and the square.

Every Sunday morning, some true antiques and a lot of bric-a- brac emerge from trailers and are taken out of the backs of vans; they are brought into the daylight and arranged neatly on the benches. As they sit there, unaware and fortuitously, they invoke the public, social and intellectual life of old Zagreb as it once was. Sometimes, when the square becomes deserted and the street cleaners take over, the unsold things return to where they came from. There is no major disappointment when that happens because a profit is not always what matters the most, especially not at the antique fair at the popular Britanac.

Beautiful old things, like old friends, always remind us that a day is forever lost only if we have not made the time in it to marvel at life.

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■ TRADICIJA TRADITION

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RAB I RABSKA FJERA

RAB AND RABSKA FJERA

Piše/By Bill Holdsworth Fotografije/Photos Davor Rostuhar

Inæenjer zaπtite okoliπa i energetike, autor, predavaË i novinar, naš suradnik Bill Holdsworth, putuje hrvatskim otocima i zemljom od 1954. godine. Njegovi napisi o mnogim temama objavljeni su u razliËitim novinama i Ëasopisima. PrivuËeni Billovom ljubavlju prema æivotu, πirokim znanjem i bogatim iskustvom, TuristiËka zajednica i gradonaËelnik Raba pozvali su ga da poprati jubilarnu desetu Rabsku fjeru, srednjovjekovni ljetni festival odræan proπlog srpnja. Evo kako je on doæivio otok Rab i Rabsku fjeru.

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An environmental and energy engineer, author, lecturer and journalist, our contributor Bill Holdsworth, has been travelling through the islands and lands of Croatia since 1954. writing on a diverse range of subjects for many newspapers and magzines. The Rab Tourist Board and town Mayor were drawn to Billâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s love of life, his eclectic knowledge and experience, and invited him to cover the 10th medieval summer festival, Rabska fjera held last July. This is how he describes his experiences on the island of Rab and the festival Rabska fjera.

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TuristiËka zajednica Raba/Tourist Board of Rab

duÊi prema sjeveru, bilo kakvo putovanje iz juænih predjela Jadranskog mora provest Êe putnika mnoπtvom od sluæbeno 1185 otoka koji leæe poput profinjenoga probranog nakita πto se grana uz zapadnu obalu Hrvatske, u dijelu svijeta gdje svjetlost blista osobitom jasnoÊom kad prodre duboko u bistro tirkizno i poput graπka zeleno more u kojemu se igraju dupini. Samo ih je πezdeset i πest naseljenih, a svaki priËa posebnu priËu. Podalje od dalmatinske obale grad KorËulu prirodno prozraËuju sezonski hladni i topli vjetrovi zbog ulica nalik na riblju kost. Na Hvaru obitelj Tudor tvrdi da su potomci engleske dobre kraljice Bess, a na BraËu stari rimski kamenolomi mramora i dalje

I

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proizvode elegantne kamene plohe za zgrade diljem svijeta. Od srednjovjekovnoga, morem oplakanoga grada Trogira treba nekoliko sati brodom kako bi se moglo uæivati u plivanju i surfanju bistrim vodama prema golim kamenim otocima Kornatima, koji se u odreeno doba dana doimaju poput nagih æenskih tijela πto se spokojno izlaæu sunËevim poljupcima.

Dalje prema sjeveru otkrit Êete sveobuhvatno staro rimsko odrediπte za odmor, do kojega se od otoka Krka dopiralo galijama koje su pokretali robovi, poznato meu Rimljanima kao Sretan grad (Felix Arba) na otoku Rabu, gdje se isti taj duh sreÊe moæe pronaÊi i danas. Rab se nalazi na juænoj strani Kvarnerskog zaljeva, istoËno od oπtro nazubljene krπke okosnice

Velebitsko-dinarskoga planinskog masiva, koji sluæi kao obrambeni zid te ujedno i hrvatska granica sa susjednom Bosnom. Te planine polovica su golemih klijeπta za orahe, a drugu polovicu tvore talijanski Dolomiti. Neki geolozi smatraju da se ta dva planinska rukavca na rubu sjevernih Alpa primiËu jedan drugomu te tako formiraju joπ mnogo jadranskih otoka.

Velik dio otoka Raba sastoji se od pjeπËenjaka nastaloga taloæenjem zrnaca kvarcnog pijeska, koji su donijele rijeke nizvodno s Alpa prije otprilike Ëetrdeset milijuna godina. U lipnju 2007., zbog predane podrπke mjesne opÊine, geolog Tihomir Marjanac i njegova supruga Ljerka otvorili su 70 kilometara geostaza, koji se proteæu preko cijelog Raba. Najstarije stijene, vapnenac prekriven boksitom, potjeËu iz vremena kasne krede, otprije sto milijuna godina, dok mlae stijene, iz novijeg holocena, predstavljaju tlo i pijesak kakve nalazimo danas. Stazom Rab-Maman stiæe se od visokih gradskih zidina Raba do samostana u Zaljevu svete Eufemije te joπ dalje. Hodanje je lako imate li odgovarajuÊu obuÊu. Ujedno je to i dobra biciklistiËka ruta. ViπejeziËna podruËja zanimanja omoguÊuju putnicima uæivanje u arhitektonskim i skulpturalnim oblicima fosiliziranih stijena koje leæe u otoËkim vodama, sada dobitnicama nagrade Europske unije za kvalitetu obale.

Kamene stube vode od geoloπke staze do stare utvrde i Trga sv. Kristofora, gdje vrvi Ëitav grad. Deseti godiπnji srednjovjekovni ljetni festival Rabska fjera trajao je od 25. do 27. srpnja, a svi su se otoËani okupljali u Ëast osloboenja Raba od mletaËke okupacije 1364. te u poËast svetom Kristoforu, svecu zaπtitniku putnika. Posljednjeg dana Rabske fjere zlatni se kovËeg s relikvijama svetog Kristofora pronosi uskim uliËicama prema prvostolnici.

Stare gradske ulice koje se proteæu kroz uski tjesnac visokih stijena, ureπene trima karakteristiËnim zvonicima, prepune su ljudi u renesansnim noπnjama. Kako su se mnoπtvu pridruæivali drugi putnici, osjetio se dah vremena. Iz Republike San Marino skupina je po imenu Il Convito Musicale, odjevena po petnaestostoljetnoj modi, zajedno s Arapima i Æidovima, svirala na glazbalima toga vremena i proizvodila zvuke kojih se suvremeno uho viπe ne sjeÊa. Bavarci iz Königsbrunna doπli su odjeveni kao mjesni graani s vitezovima u ËeliËnim oklopima i πljemovima, kao da su upravo siπli sa srednjovjekovne tapiserije πto prikazuje Stogodiπnji rat. Djevojke su nosile cvjetne vijence kroz uske ulice, uz dvadeset tisuÊa danaπnjih turista sa svih strana. U srednjem vijeku svakodnevica je bila jednako multikulturalna kao naπa.

Rabska fjera naveËer je oæivjela. Tradicionalni strijelci gaali su udaljene mete dok su pod svjetiljkama i bakljama mjesni obrtnici, ribari, kovaËi, mesari, drvodjelje, vinari, predeoci, izraivaËi finih parfema i drugih aromatiËnih masti predstavljali vjeπtine davno zaboravljenih vremena. Ovo nije tek prolazna cirkuska atrakcija. Na rivi djevojËica Mia na glavi je imala mirisan cvjetni vjenËiÊ, prodavala je ruËno raene ogrlice od πkoljki, s ljepotom i sjajem u oËima koji bude nadu u dobar æivot.

Hrvatski akademik Slobodan Novak opisao je to rijeËima: Ono πto vidimo svima nam je vaæno: alat je isti, ruke su iste, sve πto je bitno ostaje nepromijenjeno na svim stranama kugle zemaljske... bolje je gledati na buduÊnost kroz prizmu ljudskih nastojanja nego kao na πumu antena kroz prozor doma.

Na Rabu se osjeÊa pripadanje. OsjeÊa se mjesto u ovome svijetu koje nije samo proæeto ekonomijom, poslovnim svijetom i financijama.

Ono πto dijelimo daje nam identitet.

Za vruÊih ljetnih dana ulice grada i okolica pruæaju razliËite izvore uæitka. Iako malen grad, Rab je postao utoËiπte za umjetnike, od kojih su mnogi stigli iz Zagreba kako bi pokazali rezultate svoga zimskog truda. Mirko Zubak pronaπao je staru ruπevnu kapelicu, korak dalje od Srednje ulice u svijetu πarenih staklenih riba i neobiËnih bijelih ptica, s kamenim zidovima prekrivenima apstraktnim slikama. Uz pomoÊ slikarske palete Mirkova πestogodiπnja kÊi Iva proizvodila je vlastito umjetniËko djelo u dragocjenom ateljeu. U ovima i mnogim drugim slikama kakve se mogu naÊi u kapelicama i obzidanim dvorovima nema niπta turistiËko. Znalca Êe oduπeviti pronalazak grafiËkih radova zagrebaËkog akademskog slikara Josipa JoziÊa te bosanskoga Vitomira Kelave. Figurativne slike vodeÊega hrvatskog slikara Sebastijana DraËija, zakopane u dubini straænje prostorije trgovine, bilo je teæe naÊi, a njegovi nas ekspresivni i semantiËki elementi pozivaju da potraæimo bolji svijet u sebi i drugima.

Potraæite li Gradsku vijeÊnicu, sagraenu 1509. kao otvorenu dvoranu s natkrivenom renesansnom kolonadom, otkrit Êete preimenovani Paradiso i poduzetniπtvo 54-godiπnjeg Zlatka Makeka. U mladosti je bio dræavni reprezentativac u sprintu na 400 metara, sve dok nije u Hrvatsku donio prve fliper-automate, a zatim se prebacio na gastronomiju i ugostiteljstvo. Danas na Rabu moæete uæivati u izvrsnoj kuhinji, upoznati se s bogatstvom raznovrsnih vina iz Istre, s otoka Krka, Hvara i poluotoka Peljeπca, te pronaÊi umjetniËku galeriju sa zbirkom iz cijele Europe, za koju se Zlatko nada da Êe se jednog dana prodavati u londonskim aukcijskih kuÊama.

Svoju je djelatnost upotpunio ponudom glazbenicima i pjevaËima da nastupaju pod 16-stoljetnim krovom.

Otok Rab s pravom je poznat po ugodnoj mikroklimi πto je pogodna za idealno tlo za uzgoj lavande, masline, kadulje, koromaËa i drugoga aromatiËnog bilja. Mnogobrojno cvijeÊe pogoduje pËelama i proizvodnji korisnoga meda. Neka mjesna obitelj pokrenula je novu industriju organskih proizvoda, meu kojima je i medovina, piÊe πto potjeËe joπ iz rimskog doba. OtkrivajuÊi pjeπËane plaæe i skrovite uvale tijekom πetnje, nije teπko uhvatiti te prirodne mirise.

Tijekom stoljeÊa Rabljani su se sretali s mnogim narodima. Njihove su ruke uvijek otvorene, a poput drugih otoËana nikad ne propuπtaju priliku. U ljeto 1936. Ëovjek roen da postane car Britanije i njezina Carstva, Edvard VIII., proveo je dan na otoku sa svojom voljenom, Wallis Simpson. RuËali su unutar ruæiËastih vapnenih zidova Hotela Imperial, a zatim, prema priËama, otiπli su plivati goli na ono πto je danas svjetski poznata nudistiËka plaæa. Hotel Imperial odræava posebnu izloæbu britanske kraljevske obitelji, a Oscarom nagraen film Kraljev govor pripovijeda o onome πto se dogodilo poslije. Upravo se ozbiljno razgovara o snimanju filma o Edvardu i Wallis, a graani su veÊ pripremili lokacije.

Na tragu tih vremena gradonaËelnik Raba i njegovi savjetnici pozvali su nedavno vjenËane princa Williama i Kate Middleton da posjete ovaj veoma sretan otok.

■ eeking your way north, any journey from the southern reaches of the Adriatic Sea will take a traveller through a myriad world of 1,185 officially designated islands that lay like some elegant set of fingered jewellery off the western coast of Croatia in a region of the world that has a special sparkling clarity of light which reaches deep into clear turquoise and pea green seas where dolphins play. Only sixtysix are inhabited. All have a special story to tell. Off the coast of Dalmatia, KorËula town is naturally ventilated with seasonal cooling and warming winds due to the herringbone structure of streets. On Hvar a family named Tudor claim they are descendants of England’s Good Queen Bess, whilst on BraË old Roman marble quarries still deliver elegant smooth stone coverings for buildings across the world. It takes a few hours by boat from the sea encased medieval city of Trogir to enjoy swimming and wind surfing across lucid waters next to the hard rock bared backed islands of Kornati, which at certain times of the day seem as naked

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female bodies lying peacefully waiting to be sun-kissed.

Moving further northwards you can discover the old Roman All Inclusive holiday destinations reached by fast slave-powered galleys on the islands of Krk and what was known by the Romans as Happy Town (Felix Arba) on the island of Rab, where the same spirit of happiness can be found today. Rab is in the southern part of the Gulf of Kvarner, east of the sharp edged karst backbone of the Velebit-Dinara mountain range that acts as a defensive wall as well as Croatia’s border with neighbouring Bosnia. These mountains are one half of a gigantic nut cracker, the other half being the Dolomite backbone of Italy.

Some geological scientists believe that the two mountain arms hinging on the northern Alps are inching towards each other and in the process are forming many more Adriatic islands.

A large part of the island Rab is built up of sand-stones formed by deposits of quartz sand grains transported by rivers flowing down from the rising Alps some 40 million years ago. In June 2007, with the enthusiastic support of local municipal councils, geologist Tihomir Marjanac and his wife Ljerka were able to open 70 kilometres of geo-trails that criss-cross the whole of Rab. The oldest rocks are Upper Cretaceous limestone overlain by bauxites created some 100 million years back, whilst the youngest rocks are of the recent Holocene age represented by the sands and soil that we find today. One can walk along part of the Rab-Maman trail that takes you from the towering city walls of Rab to the cloister at St. Eufemia Cove and further afield. Walking is easy provided you have the appropriate footwear. It is also a good cycling route. Multi-language points of interest enable travellers to enjoy the architectural and sculptural shapes of fossilised rocks that lay in the island’s waters which have now been designated as the first European Union Quality Coast Award for Croatia.

Stone steps from the geological path reach up to the old battlements and St. Christopher’s Square, where the whole town was a bustle.

The 10th annual medieval summer festival of Rabska Fjera was about to start. From the 25th to the 27th July all the island’s people join together to honour the liberation of Rab from the occupation of Venice in 1364, as well as the holy honour and remembrance of St. Christopher, the patron saint of wayfarers.

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narrow finger of high rock-land, adorned with three distinctive bell towers, were full of people wearing Renaissance costume. There was a breath of ages as other wayfarers joined the throng. From the Republic of San Marino a group named Il Convito Musicale dressed in the height of 15th century fashion including Arabs and Jews playing instruments of a time with sounds that modern ears have forgotten.

Bavarian residents from Königsbrunn came dressed as local burghers with knights clad in steel helms and armour as if they had just jumped out of a medieval tapestry depicting the 100 Years War. Young women wearing wreaths of flowers threaded through the narrow streets along with the eclectic dress of some 20,000 modern day tourists. In the Middle Ages daily life was as multi-cultural as our own.

The Rabska Fjera came alive at night. Traditional crossbow-men shooting at a distant target, whilst under lantern lights and burning torches local crafts people, fishermen, smithies, butchers, woodworkers, winemakers, wool-makers, creators of fine perfumes and other aromatic balms depicted the skills of bygone times. This is not a passing circus attraction.

On the quayside I discovered Mia, a schoolgirl wearing her headband of sweet-smelling nosegay, selling handmade seashell necklaces with a beauty and radiance in her eyes that spoke of hope for a good life. Croatian academic Slobodan Novak sums it up with his words, What we see is relevant to all of us: tools are the same, hands are the same, everything that is essential remains unchanged from one end of the Earth to the other …it is better to view the future through the prism of human endeavour than the view of the forest of antennae through the window of our home.

What I saw on Rab was a sense of belonging.

A sense of place in our world is not just knitted together through economics, business and finance. It is what we share that helps to give us identity.

During the long hot days of summer the urban streets and surrounding countryside provide diverse sources of pleasure. For a small city Rab has become a haven for artists, many arriving from Zagreb to bring the results of their winter’s labours. Mirko Zubak found an old ruin of a chapel. Step down from Srednja Ulica (Middle Street) into an eclectic world of colourful glass fish and strange white birds with stone walls covered with abstract colourful paintings. With the artist’s palette Mirko’s six year old daughter Iva was producing her own work of art in a studio to treasure.

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many other paintings to be found in small chapels and walled yards. A connoisseur’s delight where one can find graphic works by academic graphic artist Josip JoziÊ and Bosnian academic painter Vitomir Kelava.

The figurative paintings of a Croatian painter, Sebastijan DraËiÊ, were harder to find, lost in the backroom of a shop, where his expressive and semantic elements were inviting us to search for a better world within and around us.

If one seeks out the Town Loggia, built in 1509 as an open hall with the roofing on a renaissance colonnade, we discover the renamed Paradiso and entrepreneurship of 54 year old Zlatko Makek. As a young man he was a national 400 metre sprinter until he brought the first pinball machines into Croatia and then moved into the food and restaurant business. Today on Rab you can enjoy an excellent kitchen, be introduced to the wealth and diversity of wines from Istria, the islands of Krk, Hvar and the Peljeπac peninsula, and find an art gallery with collections from across Europe which Zlatko hopes one day will be sold in the art houses of London. He has rounded off his enterprise by offering groups of musicians and singers to perform under the shelter of a 16th century roof.

The island of Rab is justly famous for its pleasant micro-climates that provide ideal soil for the growth of lavender, olives, sage, fennel and other aromatic herbs. There is a profusion of flowers that encourage bees and the production of healthy honey. A local family has set up a new industry of organic products that includes the making of mead, a drink that stems from Roman times. Walking across the terrain to discover sandy beaches and private coves to swim in one can smell these natural perfumes.

Across the centuries the people of Rab have met people from many lands. There is always an open hand and like other island people they do not miss an opportunity. In the summer of 1936, the man born to be the Emperor of Britain and its Empire, Edward VIII, spent a day on the island with the women he loved, Mrs. Wallace Simpson. They lunched in the pink washed walls of Hotel Imperial and then, according to gossip, went skinny dipping in what today is a world renowned nudist beach. Hotel Imperial has a special British Royal exhibition.

The Oscar winning film, The King’s Speech tells the story of what followed. Now there is firm talk of a major movie about Edward and Wallace. The citizens have location sites ready. Catching the mood of these times the mayor of Rab and his councillors have invited the newly married Prince William and Kate Middleton to the very happy island.

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Piπe/By Davorka Grenac

Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

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Tek πto zaobilaznicom ostavite Rijeku i stignete pred vrata Opatije, u Matuljima morate skrenuti u brdo, pa joπ malo vijugavom cestom uzbrdo kroz naselja, obliænje vinograde i mala gospodarstva i evo vas: na 377 metara nadmorske visine, iznad puËine Kvarnerskog zaljeva, pred vama se pokazuje ljupki i uporni gradiÊ Kastav 80

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When you are on the beltway leaving the city of Rijeka and just before you reach the outskirts of Opatija, in Matulji you turn and head up the hill, then follow a winding road through villages, nearby vineyards and small farms, and ďŹ nally - at 377 metres above sea level, overlooking the Kvarner Bay, in front of you appears the lovely and resilient town of Kastav.

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arewell Amerika, doma gre Frane Merikan, hello city moj, va Kastav gren sad svoj, traj na nina nina nine naj, pjeva popularni rijeËki sastav Belfast Food o Kastavcu Frani, povratniku iz Novoga Svijeta.

Motiv za svoju veselu pjesmicu razigrani su rijeËki muzikanti posudili iz komedije Frane Merikan Berta LuËiÊa, omiljenoga Ëakavskog pjesnika i komediografa, koji u svojim mnogobrojnim komedijama crta mentalitet i duπu svojih sunarodnjaka. Na temelju sluËaja stvarnog Frane napisao je tu prostoduπnu igru o iseljeniku iz Kastva, koji se nakon niza godina u Americi obogatio, pa se pod stare dane zaæelio vratiti na starinu u rodni kraj i razumno troπiti svoje mukom zaraene dolare.

A rijeË je o narodu vrijednom, uvijek trijezne i hladne glave, stisnuta dæepa, skromnome, ne prevelikih rijeËi, koji u sve sumnja dok se ne uvjeri, pa su za Kastavce tvrdili da su tvrdoglavci. To se vidi i po tome πto je domaÊa rijeË - Ëa - ostala i danas sredstvo komuniciranja, a njezini najstariji oblici zadræali su se u Rukavcu, priuËkarskom selu ispod Orljaka i BeljaËa, malo izdvojenome od obale, opisuje KastavËane legendarni rijeËki novinar i pisac na Ëakavπtini Vladimir Jugo.

Uvijek trijezne i hladne glave, stanovnici Kastva i danas, kao i stoljeÊima prije, briæno njeguju svoj grad ponad Kvarnerskog zaljeva. Tek πto zaobilaznicom ostavite Rijeku i stignete pred vrata Opatije, u Matuljima morate skrenuti u brdo, pa joπ malo vijugavom cestom uzbrdo kroz naselja, obliænje vinograde i mala gospodarstva i evo vas: na 377 metara nadmorske visine pred vama se pokazuje gradiÊ od nekih devet tisuÊa stanovnika. Za putnike navikle na kilometraæu, ovdje su udaljenosti doista miÊe, sve je na dohvat ruke, pa i Kastav mnogi doæivljavaju kao dio moÊne Rijeke, a ne kao grad za sebe, i povijesno i sudbinski povezan s Istrom, osobito u proπla dva stoljeÊa. No, tu ste, pred renesansnom gradskom loæom, pred ostacima srednjovjekovnih zidina s devet tornjeva i gradskim vratima, pred mreæom uliËica, kamenih skalina, trgiÊa, cisterni i crkvica. A doete li na najviπu toËku, ispred crkve sv.

Jelene Kriæarice, pred vama puca veliËanstven pogled na planinu UËku i obrise visoravni ΔiÊarije, πto spajaju Istru s Kastavπtinom, pa na Kvarnerski zaljev, otoke Cres i Krk i puËinu od Ëega - bez pretjerivanja - zastaje dah.

U ovome omiljenome turistiËkom odrediπtu u Primorsko-goranskoj æupaniji, s bogatom povijeπÊu, spomenicima, kulturom, tradicijom i oËuvanom prirodom, ljeti se vrzmaju turisti iz obliænjih turistiËkih meka poput Opatije i Lovrana, i, dakako, RijeËani. U veËernjim satima Ëuje se glazba s nekoga od brojnih koncerata ili odjekuju rijeËi glumaca s neke

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od predstava ovogodiπnjega jubilarnoga 20. meunarodnoga Kastafskog kulturnog leta.

DomaÊi sladokusci pak radije Ëekaju ona mirnija vremena izvan sezone, kad na stolovima probranih restorana i konoba osobito zamiriπe domaÊi prπut i divljaË s pljukancima (lokalna vrsta tjestenine), a na izmaku zime zatutnje halubajski i æejanski zvonËari u karnevalskom pohodu na grad, a svake se prve nedjelje u listopadu æeljno oËekuje Bela nedeja, taj najveÊi kastavski blagdan u Ëast mladog vina belice.

Ukratko, grad cijele godine svom posjetitelju ima πto reÊi.

Izrastao na starim putovima πto su iz Trsta i Kranjske vodili u rijeËku luku, Kastav je bio upravno, gospodarsko i kulturno srediπte Istre i Primorja, rasadnik narodne svijesti, pa kad su u njegovoj blizini i izrastali veÊi gradovi poput Rijeke i Pazina, saËuvao je autonomiju, jezik, obiËaje i æivot, nikad omeen uskim granicama gradskih zidina. O njegovu znaËenju svjedoËi stara gradska jezgra, nekadaπnje i danaπnje srediπte cijele Kastavπtine, podruËja izmeu Rijeke i UËke. Zbog zidina obraslih brπljanom, neki ga i danas zovu Brπljanovac. Za rimskih vremena zvao se Castua, od 12. stoljeÊa gradom vladaju Devinski grofovi iz grada Duino nedaleko Trsta, a oko 1400. godine nasljeuju ih grofovi od Walseeja, iz Ëijeg razdoblja potjeËe Zakon Grada Kastva pisan na Ëakavskom narjeËju i starim hrvatskim pismom glagoljicom. Pisan na temelju obiËajnog prava, rijeË je o dragocjenome pravniËkom spomeniku srednjega vijeka.

U 15. stoljeÊu Kastav preuzimaju Habsburgovci, u 17. isusovci, a u 18. stoljeÊu pod vlaπÊu je Austrije. UoËi revolucionarnih zbivanja u Europi, pretposljednji od kastavskih gospodara Ivan Thierry spalio je cijelu gospoπtijsku arhivu, uniπtivπi sve zapise o burnoj povijesti grada i Kastavπtine, pa se Kastavci u nekim stvarima danas mogu osloniti tek na usmenu predaju. Nakon prolaska Napoleonove vojske u poËetku 19. stoljeÊa, grad je ponovno preπao u ruke Austrijanaca, ali uskoro je izrastao u jako uporiπte hrvatskoga narodnog preporoda u Istri. Nakon raspada Austro-Ugarske Rapallskim ugovorom (1920.) Kastavπtina je podijeljena izmeu Kraljevine Italije i Kraljevine SHS, a nakon Drugoga svjetskog rata zajedno s Istrom potpuno je pripala Hrvatskoj u sklopu Jugoslavije.

A u Kastvu, tom srediπtu gospoπtije πto se prostirala sve do Veprinca i MoπÊenica, nikad nisu æivjeli vlasnici grada, nego njihovi predstavnici, kapetani, sa sjediπtem u gradskom Kaπtelu, u Ëijemu je jednom dijelu i danas smjeπtena gradska uprava. Oni su provodili i sudsku vlast, a traæeÊi pravdu, narod se katkad i pobunio. Predaja kaæe da je 1666.

godine kapetan, RijeËanin Franjo Morelli, htio ubirati desetinu od poljoprivrednih proizvoda, πto se protivilo zakonu, pa se razjareni Kastavci pobuniπe, uhvatiπe kapetana i utopiπe u gradskoj cisterni Lokvina. PoËinitelji se nikad nisu otkrili, jer sloæni su graani zajedniËki prihvatili krivnju, govoreÊi: Si smo ga, i ja i moj brat i od mojega brata brat i sudac Kinkela i si do vragu tega. Joπ ga je i stara Mare z preslicun badnula.

Kastavci se osobito ponose time πto je veÊ 1700. godine u njihovu gradu osnovana prva hrvatska πkola u Istri, a u vrijeme hrvatskoga narodnog preporoda 1866. godine prva istarska Ëitaonica. Od 1910. do 1918. ravnatelj UËiteljske πkole bio je veliki hrvatski pisac Vladimir Nazor, roeni BraËanin. Pokle su me prikovali zlizane za ove daski... poËinje njegova poznata Galiotova pesan na kastavskoj Ëakavπtini. Godine 1885. osnovana je Delavska πkola, jedina obrtna πkola na podruËju Liburnije, u kojoj su se obrazovali vrsni baËvari, kotlari, stolari, klesari i kovaËi. StoljeÊa prije tu je djelovao poznati majstor Vincent iz Kastva.

Njegove su freske u crkvi sv. Marije na ©krilinama kod istarskog Berama jedan od najljepπih i najvrednijih ciklusa srednjovjekovnog freskoslikarstva na istarskom podruËju. U njima se lako prepoznaje tipiËan istarski krajolik s breæuljcima i gradiÊima, no najsnaæniji dojam ostavlja MrtvaËki ples, freska kojom umjetnik gorkom ironijom govori o prolaznosti æivota, slikajuÊi kraljeve, trgovce, kardinale i papu kako pleπu podruku sa Smrti. PovjesniËari umjetnosti pretpostavljaju da je i Ivan iz Kastva radio u radionici majstora Vincenta, oslikavajuÊi crkve po Istri i Krasu. Iz toga je kraja skladatelj, melograf i glazbeni pedagog Ivan MatetiÊ Ronjgov, otuda je i politiËar i pisac Vjekoslav SpinËiÊ...

I tako dalje. Mnogo je primjera koji govore o Kastvu kao kulturnom svjetioniku toga kraja, te je i ono πto se danas u njemu dogaa nekako prirodan produæetak toga kulturoloπkog naslijea. Stoga oËito nije sluËajno da je Kastafsko kulturno leto svojim znaËenjem uvelike nadiπlo gradiÊ i πto je na njegovim pozornicama tijekom proteklih dvadeset godina nastupalo 7500 izvoaËa iz Ëetrdeset zemalja.

Kad smo prije dvadeset godina pokretali ovaj festival, iskljuËivo s domaÊim snagama, bili smo ponosni πto radimo neπto posebno - kazao je na ovogodiπnjem sveËanom otvaranju Kastafskog kulturnog leta Ivica LukanoviÊ, gradonaËelnik grada Kastva i jedan od osnivaËa manifestacije.

Osnovan ratu usprkos 1992. godine, festival je poËeo skromnom izvedbom LuËiÊeve puËke komedije Likuf, a ljetos je ugostio umjetnike iz Zagreba, Meksika, Slovenije, Srbije, Bosne i Hercegovine, Maarske, Portugala i Austrije.

Kulturno ljeto u Kastvu poËinje veÊ u svibnju Internacionalnim festivalom gitare, uza sluæbeni

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program festivala drugu godinu zaredom teËe i Glazbeni kampus va Kastve (glazbena radionica za mlade), Blues festival, Vela umjetniËka delavnica (meunarodna likovna smotra), a tu je i »ansonfest, festival Ëakavske πansone. Ove je godine Glazbeno druπtvo SpinËiÊi proslavilo 90 godina postojanja, a Kulturno-prosvjetno druπtvo Istarska vila, u sklopu kojega djeluje i Kastafski puËki teatar, obiljeæilo je 110 godina od osnutka.

No, Kastavπtina se osobito proËula po svojim zvonËarima, odnedavna na Unescovoj listi kulturne nematerijalne baπtine, tim æivopisnim pronositeljima stoËarske pokladne magije, bez kojih se ne moæe zamisliti kraj zime u ovom kraju, ni meunarodni karneval u Rijeci. Ti snaæni mrgudi u ovËjem krznu, sa æivotinjskim maskama ili πarenim pokrivalima za glavu, s baltom ili baËukom (stiliziranim buzdovanom) u ruci i zvonima oko pasa, obilaze sela svoga zaviËaja, te sirovom snagom ritualnih kretnji i zagluπujuÊom bukom zvona tjeraju zimu i zle duhove, dozivajuÊi proljeÊe. Porijeklo im seæe u prapovijest, no njihova je magija zaboravljena, a ostala je dojmljiva izvedba, zbog koje su uvijek, gdje se god pojave, jedinstvena atrakcija. Tako se i svakoga pusnog ponedjeljka Halubajski zvonËari zaustave u srediπtvu Kastva, a za 92

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Kastavce ta je vesela ceremonija obiljeæavanja kraja pusnog ludovanja i poËetka korizme mnogo viπe od obiËne turistiËke atrakcije. Dio je to briæno Ëuvane tradicije, pa nije Ëudno πto ih redovito doËekuju i Ëelni ljudi grada.

A koliko u Kastvu poπtuju tradiciju, najbolje pokazuje Bela nedeja, trodnevni sajam u Ëast mladog vina, koji se odræava svakoga prvog vikenda u listopadu. Tako je to veÊ stoljeÊima, joπ od 1400. godine, kad se Bela nedeja spominje u Zakonu Grada Kastva. To je vrijeme kad Kastvom teËe mlada belica, autohtono bijelo vino Kastavπtine, a tisuÊe domaÊih ljudi i posjetitelja nagrnu u grad krcat πtandovima s kulinarskim delicijama i proizvodima starih zanata, uz koncerte, nastupe folkloraπa, zvuke sopila, harmonike i meha, umjetniËke izloæbe i predstavljanja knjiga. Zabavlja se do duboko u noÊ, belica grije i duπu i srce, a stari Kastavljani, kaæu, i danas broje godinu od jedne do druge Bele nedeje. Kao nekad, kad je bila vaæniji praznik od Nove godine. Tada se sve raËunalo od nje i do nje - rad teæaka i sluπkinja ugovarao se od jedne do druge Bele nedeje, poslovi u πumi zavrπavali su do Bele nedeje, za Belu nedeju radili su se raËuni, novac se posuivao do Bele nedeje. Nekad su vrsni obrtnici iz Kastva na tom sajmu cijeloj Istri

prodavali kotlove za peËenje rakije i kuhanje palente, baËve i Ëabre, a o svemu govori BaËvarski muzej, prvi takve vrste u Hrvatskoj.

Danas se u Kastav uglavnom dolazi na iÊe i piÊe, a na proljetnom Susretu vinara Kastavπtine, Belica 2011, gradonaËelnik Ivica LukanoviÊ istaknuo je da takvim manifestacijama nastoje gradiÊ pretvoriti u pravo enogastro odrediπte. I tako, uz Ëaπicu belice, ali uvijek trijezne i hladne glave, stanovnici Kastva marljivo kroje buduÊnost.

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arewell Amerika, doma gre Frane Merikan, hello city moj, va Kastav gren sad svoj, traj na nina nina nine naj sings the popular band from Rijeka, Belfast Food. It is a song about Frane from Kastav who returned from the New World. The playful musicians borrowed the motif for their jolly tune from the comedy Frane Merikan by Berto LuËiÊ, a popular dialect poet and playwright, whose numerous comedies depict the mentality and soul of his compatriots. Based on a real person named Frane, LuËiÊ wrote a simple and genuine play about an expatriate from Kastav who became wealthy in America and towards the end of his life wished to return to his native land and sensibly spend his hard-earned dollars.

These people are hard-working, always sober and level-headed, with tight pockets, modest, of few words, doubting anything and everything until they see for themselves, and therefore it is said that the people of Kastav are stubborn.

This is also evident from the fact that the native word for what - Ëa - is still a valid means of communication, whose oldest forms can be found in Rukavac, a village near the mountain UËka, below Orljak and BeljaË, slightly away from the coast. These are the words that the legendary journalist and Chakavian dialect writer Vladimir Jugo used to describe the people of Kastav.

Always sober and level-headed, the people of Kastav attentively take care of their town located above the Bay of Kvarner, just as centuries before. When you are on the beltway leaving the city of Rijeka and just before you reach the outskirts of Opatija, in Matulji you turn and head up the hill, then follow a winding road through villages, nearby vineyards and small farms, and finally - at 377 metres above sea level, in front of you appears a town of approximately nine thousand inhabitants.

For travellers who are used to mileage, the distances here are quite small, everything is within reach, which is why Kastav is perceived by many as a part of the mighty Rijeka and not

a town in its own right, or historically and as fate has determined it is connected with Istria, especially in the last two centuries. There you stand, in front of the renaissance town loggia, facing the remains of medieval walls with nine towers and a town gate, a web of alleys, stone steps, piazzas, wells and chapels. When you reach the Church of St. Helen the Crusader at the top, you will be rewarded with a spectacular view of the mountain UËka and the outlines of the ΔiÊarija plateau that connect Istria with the Kastav region, as well as a view of the Bay of Kvarner, the islands of Cres and Krk and the open sea - something truly breathtaking.

In the summertime tourists from nearby sightseeing hubs such as Opatija and Lovran and, naturally, people from Rijeka, often visit and travel around this popular destination in Primorje-Gorski Kotar County, which is rich in history, monuments, culture, tradition and preserved nature. In the evenings you can hear music coming from the many concerts, or the words uttered by actors in the many performances of the international Kastav Summer Festival, which is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Local aficionados prefer to wait for quieter times in the off-season, when the tables of carefully chosen restaurants and

taverns are filled with homemade prosciutto and wild game with pljukanci (local pasta), when the bellmen from Halubje and Æeja in their carnival march storm into town in late winter, or on the first Sunday in October, eagerly awaiting the so-called White Sunday, the biggest holiday in Kastav, celebrating the young wine belica. In short, throughout the entire year the town has something to say to its visitors.

As it developed on the ancient roads that used to lead from Trieste and Kranjska to the port of Rijeka, Kastav was the administrative, economic and cultural centre of Istria and Primorje, the breeding ground of national awareness. When larger towns emerged, such as Rijeka and Pazin, Kastav preserved its autonomy, language, traditions and lifestyle, never being limited by the narrow boundaries of the town walls. The old town core testifies to its significance - it used to be the centre of the entire Kastav region, the territory between Rijeka and UËka. Due to the ivy-covered walls, some still call it Brπljanovac (Ivy Town). In the Roman period it was called Castua, from the 1100s onwards it was ruled by the Counts of Duino from the eponymous town near Trieste, and around 1400 they were succeeded by the counts of Walsee. That period was also CROATIA AIRLINES

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marked by the Town of Kastav Act, which was written in Chakavian dialect and old Croatian Glagolitic script. It was based on common law and today it is considered a valuable medieval legal monument.

In the 15th century, Kastav was taken over by the Habsburgs, in the 17th century by the Jesuits and in the 18th century it fell under Austrian rule. On the eve of revolutionary events in Europe, one of the last lords of Kastav, Ivan Thierry, burned the entire archive of the gentry and thus destroyed all the records of the town’s and the region’s eventful history, and so today the people of Kastav can only rely on the stories that have been passed down regarding certain things. After the passage of Napoleon’s army at the start of the 19th century, the town was again awarded to the Austrians, but it soon grew to become a strong mainstay of the Croatian National Revival in Istria. After the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the Treaty of Rapallo (1920) divided the Kastav region between the Kingdom of Italy and the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, while after the Second World War, together with Istria, it became in its entirety a part of Croatia within Yugoslavia.

Kastav, the centre of gentry spreading all the way to the towns of Veprinac and MoπÊenice, was never the domicile of the town’s owners, but rather its representatives, the captains, who were seated in the town’s Citadel, which even today also houses the city administration.

They also represented the judicial branch, as the people were known to rebel in their quest for justice. A legend says that in 1666 the captain, Franjo Morelli from Rijeka, wanted to levy a tithe on the people’s agricultural yield, which was against the law and caused the raging Kastav people to capture the captain in an upheaval and drown him in the town well called Lokvina. The perpetrators were never revealed because the unanimous townspeople commonly plead guilty by saying, Si smo ga, i ja i moj brat i od mojega brata brat i sudac Kinkela i si do vragu tega. Joπ ga je i stara Mare s preslicun badnula (It was me and my brother and my brother’s brother and judge Kinkela and the devil himself. Old Mary also stabbed him with her distaff).

The people of Kastav are especially proud of the first Croatian school in Istria, founded in 1700, as well as the first Istrian library, established in 1866 during the Croatian National Revival. From 1910 to 1918 the duty of the principal in the Teacher Training School was carried out by the great Croatian writer Vladimir Nazor, who was born on the island of BraË.

Pokle su me prikovali zlizane za ove daski... are the opening lines of his famous Galérien’s Poeme, written in Kastav’s Chakavian dialect.

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In 1885 the School of Crafts was founded, the only such vocational school in the Liburnia area. There they taught and trained master barrel makers, cauldron makers, carpenters, stonemasons and blacksmiths. The renowned master Vincent from Kastav had worked there centuries earlier. His frescoes in the Church of St. Mary at ©kriline, near Beram in Istria, are among the most beautiful and valuable medieval fresco paintings in the Istrian region.

It is not difficult to discern in them the typical Istrian landscape with hillsides and towns.

However, the most powerful impression is left by the Dance of the Dead, the artist’s elegy about the transience of life, depicting kings, merchants, cardinals and the Pope dancing hand in hand with Death. Art historians assume that Ivan from Kastav also worked in master Vincent’s workshop and painted the churches around Istria and Carso. This was also the native region of the composer, melographer and music teacher Ivan MatetiÊ Ronjgov, and of the politician and writer Vjekoslav SpinËiÊ...

The list goes on. There are many examples of Kastav being the cultural beacon of the era.

Today’s events seem like a natural extension of this cultural heritage. Therefore, it is no surprise that the Kastav Summer Festival and its importance have far exceeded the town itself. In the last twenty years, 7500 performers from 40 countries have appeared on the town’s stages.

- Twenty years ago, when we were launching this festival, with the help of our local forces, we took pride in doing something special, said the Mayor of Kastav, Ivica LukanoviÊ, one of the founders of the event, at this year’s opening of the Kastav Summer Festival. Established in 1992, despite the war, the festival began with a modest performance of LuËiÊ’s folk comedy Likuf, while this summer it hosted artists from Zagreb, Mexico, Slovenia, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Hungary, Portugal and Austria.

The Kastav Summer Festival begins already in May with the International Guitar Festival. In addition to the official festival programme, for the second year in a row there is also the Glazbeni kampus va Kastve (Youth Music Workshop), Blues Festival, Vela umjetniËka delavnica (International Fine Arts Fair), and »ansonfest, the festival of Chakavian song. This year the SpinËiÊi Musical Society celebrated 90 years of existence, and the Cultural Association Istarska vila, which also manages the Kastav Folk Theatre, marked its 110th birthday.

However, the Kastav region is especially known for its bellmen, which were recently included on UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage.

It is hard to imagine the end of the winter season in this region or the international carnival parade in Rijeka without the colourful promot-

ers of agricultural carnival magic. These stout grumpy fellows in sheepskin, wearing animal masks and colourful headgear, with a bat or mace in their hands and bells around their waists, use the raw force of ritual motions and the deafening noise of the bells to push away the winter and evil spirits and invite the spring season. Their origin dates back to ancient times, but their magic is long forgotten; the only thing remaining is the impressive performance that makes them a unique sight wherever they appear. Every carnival Monday, the bell-ringers stop in the centre of Kastav and perform a cheerful ceremony that marks the end of carnival madness and the beginning of Lent, and it is much more than a simple tourist attraction. It is a part of the carefully kept tradition, so it is no wonder that the heads of the town government regularly welcome them.

The respect for tradition in Kastav is best seen on White Sunday (Bela nedeja), the three-day fair celebrating young wine, held every year during the first weekend in October. This custom has been kept for centuries, ever since 1400, when White Sunday was first mentioned in the Kastav Town Law. Young belica, an indigenous white wine variety found in the Kastav region, is poured all around the town, while thousands of locals and visitors swarm the town which is bustling with street stands with local specialities and old craft products, accompanied by concerts, folk performances, sounds of sopile, accordions and bellows, art shows and book promotions. The entertainment stretches far into the night, belica warms the hearts and souls, while the elderly Kastav people, they say, still count their years from one White Sunday to the next; just like in the old days, when it used to be a more important holiday than New Years. Everything was calculated until that day and from it - the work of field hands and maids was arranged from one White Sunday to the next, woodwork in the forest was finished by White Sunday, on White Sunday accounts were done and money was lent until White Sunday. In the old days skilled craftsmen from Kastav came to the fair to sell cauldrons for grappa, polenta, barrels and buckets to all of Istria, which is all testified to in the Barrel Museum, the first such institution in Croatia.

Today, visitors come to Kastav mostly to eat and drink. At this spring’s Kastav Winemakers’ Gathering, Belica 2011, Mayor Ivica LukanoviÊ said that the aim of such events is to turn the town into a true wine and gastro destination.

This is the way of the Kastav people, with a glass of belica in their hands, but always sober and level-headed, diligently building their future.

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Piπe/By Tatjana PetriËušiÊ

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Fotografije/Photos Draæen LapiÊ

GradiÊ Nin jedan je od bisera srednje Dalmacije, smjeπten na otoËiÊu usred plitke lagune nedaleko od Zadra. Taj najstariji hrvatski kraljevski grad po mnogoËemu je osobit, od arheoloπkih nalaziπta do ljekovitoga blata i do jedne sasvim osobite proizvodnje - prozvodnje soli, tako osobite da dolazi i u cvjetovima.

The city of Nin is one of the pearls of Central Dalmatia, located on an islet in the middle of a shallow lagoon near Zadar. This oldest Croatian royal city is special for many reasons, from archaeological sites to medicinal mud, as well as for one completely particular product the production of salt, so special that it even comes in flowers. in je jedan od samo nekoliko hrvatskih primorskih gradova, uz Pag i Ston, koji ima solanu. Bazeni solane nalaze se u istoËnim, najpliÊim dijelovima lagune u kojoj leæi i grad, a na koje se nastavljaju moËvarna staniπta.

Park solana Nin pokriva povrπinu od 55 hektara u Ninskoj laguni, tik do starogradske jezgre, a datira joπ iz rimskog doba. Na tome mjestu sol se proizvodi tradicionalno i posve prirodno - koriπtenjem energije sunca i vjetra prekrasno Ëisto more isparava se u bazenima.

Tako se sol proizvodi joπ od 6. stoljeÊa kad su se time bavili Liburni. StoljeÊe poslije, kad su na ovaj prostor doπli Hrvati, oni su proizvodnju nastavili, a tradicionalni naËini oËuvani su i danas. Kao i prije 1500 godina, sol se suπi na suncu, i zatim bere. Moæda upravo ta rijeË u

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svojoj biti izvrsno opisuje odnos prema soli, jer ona se, kao i drugi plodovi prirode, ubire, i zasluga za njezinu kvalitetu ne pripisuje se ljudima onako kako bi to uËinila rijeË proizvode.

Ljudi u Solani Nin tek ubiru ono Ëime ih je priroda tako velikoduπno darovala.

Koliko je cijeli proces u skladu s prirodom, najbolje svjedoËi to πto plitki bazeni solane nude staniπte raznolikom biljnom i æivotinjskom svijetu. Osim Ëak 280 vrsta ptica, tu su joπ i biljka i æivotinja koje veÊ u imenu pokazuju vezu sa solju - biljka slanuπa pokriva veÊ dio prostora, a u vodi æivi jedinstveni raËiÊ slanistar.

Zbog alge petule iz morske vode, ninska sol ima i veÊu koncentraciju joda, a zato je prepoznatljiva na træiπtu, a osim osnovne soli kakvu veÊina ljudi poznaje, u Ninu se bere i sasvim osobit, Cvijet soli.

VeÊini ljudi nepoznat, Cvijet soli vrhunski chefovi opisuju kao kavijar meu solima - sol je to sasvim osobita okusa, teksture, sastava... ukratko, ono najbolje od morske soli. Cvijet soli zato se i bere ruËno, rano ujutro i kasno naveËer, baπ poput neke neobiËne biljke koja svoje pupoljke otvara samo u to doba.

Cvijet soli stvara se na povrπini mora u obliku listiÊa, zatim ga vrijedni beraËi skupljaju s vrha, a obiËna sol ostaje na dnu. Tek kad se ta osobita sol ubere, nastavlja se uobiËajeno skupljanje ostalih soli.

Osim u prehrani, ta sol sluæi za regulaciju probave, ublaæavanje tegoba u æena u klimakteriju i za vrijeme menstrualnog ciklusa, za osvjeæenje organizma i opuπtanje napetosti, a osobito je korisna za osobe koje pate od nedostatka kalcija i magnezija.

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Proces berbe soli u Ninskoj solani traje od kraja travnja, kad se radi prvi zahvat morske vode u bazenima, do kraja listopada, ako to vremenske prilike omoguÊavaju. To ujedno i uvjetuje proizvedenu koliËinu soli. Kiπa i hladnoÊa znaËe manje soli, a sunËani dani, po kojima je obala Dalmacije poznata, znaËe i viπe posla za beraËe. Osobito je pritom bitan vjetar, pa kad puπe lagani maestral, dobiva se prvorazredna sol i Cvijet soli. Ali, kad s Velebita puhne bura, koja sa sobom donese i neπto praπine, proizvedena sol ide u industriju, uglavnom za soljenje ribe.

Mnogo kiπa pak znaËi da je sol slabije kvalitete, pa Êe se rabiti za posipanje cesti zimi.

Vrijedni ljudi koji se kroz polje soli probijaju u gumenim Ëizmama, s obaveznom lopatom koju guraju pred sobom, postali su tako jedan od prepoznatljivih znamena ne samo solane, nego i Nina.

Cijeli taj romantiËni proces, jedinstven i na mnogo naËina drugaËiji od industrijske proizvodnje, posjetitelji mogu upoznati i sami.

TuristiËki obilasci Ninske solane moguÊi su veÊ nekoliko godina, pa vodiËi zainteresirane pouËavaju i vode svakih sat vremena. Osim toga, nedavno je ponuda Ninske solane upotpunjena i Muzejom soli i suvenirnicom.

U sklopu izloæbenog prostora muzeja posjetitelji mogu nauËiti o vaænosti soli za ljudski organizam, pogledati alat i opremu kojima se koriste u tradicionalnoj proizvodnji, kupiti hrvatski slani proizvod, ali i kuπati tako osobit Cvijet soli.

Muzej posjetitelje upoznaje s povijesnim fazama razvoja solane, od vremena antike, otkad su u Solani ostali ostaci kamenih vrata koja su propuπtala morsku vodu u bazene, preko doba kad je je sol prenoπena ruËno, pa do vremena vagonËiÊa koje su beraËi soli, kao u starim filmovima, ruËno gurali.

- Otvorenje muzeja tek je jedna od naπih aktivnosti koje smo strateπki definirali u pozicioniranju Solane Nin na hrvatskom i svjet-skom træiπtu. Cilj nam je da postanemo jedna od svjetskih priznatih ekoloπkih solana, koja Êe preko spoja tradicije i dodatno osnaæenog tima ljudi iznositi na svjetska træiπta autohtone, ali i inovativne hrvatske slane proizvode - izjavio je Damir OπtriÊ, direktor Solane Nin. Zbog tradicije u proizvodnji i pakiranju, kao i ekoloπke proizvodnje, ninska je sol prekrasni dalmatinski suvenir. U ponudi su tako soli za kupanje, mirisne soli obogaÊene prirodnim eteriËnim uljima, keramiËki suveniri, ali i osnovni proizvodi - sol za prehranu. Bilo da je rijeË o obiËnoj soli za kuhanje, koja je istodobno osobita i neobiËna u odnosu na druge kuhinjske soli, ili pak o Cvijetu soli, svatko za sebe moæe naÊi neπto ukusno i slano. U konaËnici, kaæu da u æivotu uvijek sve treba uzimati sa zrnom soli. ■ in is one of just a few Croatian coastal towns, along with Pag and Ston, which has salt pans. The pools of salt are located on the eastern, most shallow parts

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of the lagoon, where the town is also located and which continues on to the marsh habitats.

The Nin Salt Pans Park covers an area of 55 hectares in the Nin lagoon, next to the old city centre, and dates back to Roman times. On that location salt is produced in a traditional and completely natural way - by using the energy of the sun and wind, the beautiful and clean sea evaporates in the pools.

This is how salt has been produced since the 6th century when this was done by the Liburnians. Centuries later, when the Croatians came to this area, they continued with the production, and they maintain the traditional method even today. Just as 1,500 years ago, salt dries in the sun and is then harvested. Perhaps that is just the right word to describe the attitude towards salt, because just like other fruits of nature, it is harvested, and the credit for its quality is thus not given to people in the way in which it would be done by using the word produced. People in Solana Nin simply harvest that which was so graciously given to them by nature.

How much of that entire process is in harmony with nature is best seen by the fact that the shallow pools of salt pans offer habitat to various plants and animals. In addition to 280 species of birds, here are also plants and animals whose names alone demonstrate their relationship with salt - the plant slanuπa covers a part of the area, and the unique slanistar crabs live in the water.

Due to the algae (petule) in the sea water, the salt in Nin has a greater concentration of iodine, for which it is very recognizable on the market. Besides the basic salt that most people know about, in Nin a completely unique salt is harvested, Flower of Salt.

Most people do not know, but the great chefs revere it as the caviar of salts - this salt has a completely special taste, texture, composition…in short, it is the best sea salt. That is why Flower of Salt is hand-harvested, early in the morning and late at night, just like an extraordinary plant whose buds open only at a certain time.

Flower of Salt is created on the surface of the sea and is in the shape of leaves, while regular salt sinks to the bottom, and that is why diligent farmers scrape the Flower of Salt from the top layer. Only when that special salt is harvested do they continue with the normal gathering of the rest of the salt.

In addition to sprinkling it over food, this salt serves to regulate digestion, reduce discomforts experienced by women during menopause and during their menstrual cycles, refresh the organism and release tension, and it is especially beneficial to people who suffer from a calcium or magnesium deficiency.

The process of harvesting salt in the Nin salt pans lasts from the end of April, when the first quantity of sea water is pushed into the pools, until the end of October, weather permitting,

which also determines the overall amount of harvested salt. Rain and cold weather means less salt, while days of sunshine, for which the Dalmatian coast is known, mean more work for the salt farmers. At the same time the wind is also very important, so that when a light maestral wind blows it produces first class salt and Flower of Salt. The bura, on the other hand, the wind that blows down from Velebit, also brings some dust, so the salt produced during the bura is used for industrial purposes, mostly to salt fish. A lot of rain means that the salt is of a lower quality, and then it is used as road salt to melt ice in the winter.

The diligent people who press forward through the salt fields in their rubber boots with their mandatory shovels which they push in front of themselves have become one of the most recognizable attractions, not only in the salt pans, but also in Nin. Tourists can learn about this entire romantic process, original and in many ways different from industrial production, on the spot. Guided tours of the Nin salt pans, which have been available for a few years already, leave every hour. In addition, as of recently the offer at the Nin salt pans has been complemented by the Museum of Salt and a souvenir shop.

Within the exhibition area of the museum visitors can learn about the importance of salt for the human body, look at the tools and equipment which are used in the traditional production, buy Croatian salt products, and even taste the special Flower of Salt.

The visitors to the museum are also taught about the history of the phases of salt development: from ancient times as testified to by the remains of a stone gate that used to open to let the sea water into the sea beds, to the time when salt was transported by hand, and to the time when the salt farmers pushed little wagons by hand, like in old films.

- The opening of the museum is just one of the activities we have defined in our strategy to position Solana Nin on the Croatian and world market. Our aim is to become one of the globally recognized eco-salt pans. By combining tradition and the skills of a strong team of people we want to bring to the world market original and innovative Croatian salt products, said Damir OπtriÊ, the director of Solana Nin. Traditional production and packaging, as well as the ecological harvesting process practiced in Nin make salt a wonderful souvenir from Dalmatia. The offer also includes bath salts, fragrant salts enriched with natural essential oils, ceramic souvenirs, as well as the basic product - edible salt. Be it regular cooking salt, which at the same time is special and unique compared to other cooking salts, or perhaps Flower of Salt, everyone can find something tasty and salty for themselves. In conclusion, the saying goes that in life you always have to take things with a grain of salt.

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Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos Alan »aplar

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PutujuÊi dalekim svijetom i

When travelling around the

otkrivajuÊi njegove osobitosti,

world and discovering its

Ëesto propuπtamo zapaziti

wonders we often fail to notice

Ëarobna mjesta koja su nam

magical places which are right

na dohvat ruke. Mjesta u koja

around us. The places that

je lako zaljubiti se i koja je

are so easy to fall in love with,

nemoguÊe, Ëak kad bismo i

places impossible to erase

htjeli, izbrisati iz srca i sjeÊanja.

from our hearts and memories.

Takva se mjesta brzo i lako

Such places get under our skin

uvuku pod koæu jer imaju

quickly and easily because they

bezbroj sitnih osobitosti,

possess an uncountable num-

kudikamo slikovitijih nego πto

ber of tiny peculiarities, much

moæe prikazati bilo koja

more picturesque than any

razglednica. Upravo za

postcard could portray.

ljepotom kakvu posjeduje

The beauty of Komiæa on the

Komiæa na otoku Visu,

island of Vis is exactly what

tragaju ljubitelji mediteranskih

admirers of Mediterranean

Ëarolija.

magic are after.

oista, zaËudno je kako Komiæa s lakoÊom budi nostalgiËne osjeÊaje i u ljudima koji su u njoj boravili samo koji dan. Priupitate li svoje prijatelje i poznanike o Komiæi, neÊe vam moÊi ravnoduπno opisati πto je to ondje osobito i jedinstveno, a opet, nema rijeËi kojima Êe vam moÊi doËarati osjeÊaj sveproæimajuÊe ispunjenosti πto su ga ondje doæivjeli. O Komiæi ravnoduπno mogu govoriti samo oni koji u njoj nisu bili.

Komiæa se nalazi na zapadnoj obali otoka Visa, u duboko uvuËenome zaljevu okrenutome prema puËini. S istoËne strane πtiti je gotovo 600 metara visoko brdo Hum, a sa sjeverne i

juæne neπto niæa, ali jednako strma stjenovita brda Ëije se padine spuπtaju sve do obala zaljeva. Takav poloæaj, a s njim povezan i nedostatak πirokih poljoprivrednih povrπina, odredio je povijesnu orijentaciju Komiæe prema moru i ribarstvu. Komiæa je poznata upravo po svojoj ribarskoj tradiciji koju su iseljeni Komiæani prenijeli i u Sjevernu Ameriku.

Preko prijevoja Sveti Mihovil Komiæa je cestom dugom 10 kilometara povezana s gradom Visom. S juæne strane Huma do Komiæe moæe se stiÊi i starom otoËnom cestom koja je poneπto uæa - i dvostruko duæa. Iako trajekt pristaje u Visu na suprotnoj obali otoka, cijeli ritam æivota

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na otoku, pa tako i u Komiæi, podreen je ritmu dolazaka i odlazaka trajekta i katamarana.

Za ljude s kopna putovanje trajektom na otok ima neku gotovo mitsku dimenziju - otisnuti se od kopna prema otoku znaËi ostaviti za sobom kopnene brige i prepustiti se mirnoÊi mora i otoka. Za otoËane je pak putovanje trajektom sve samo ne ljetna avantura - koliko je brod poveznica koja im omoguÊuje da æivot na otoku bude sliËan æivotu na kopnu, toliko su udaljenost i putovanje nezaobilazan dio njihova postojanja.

Komiæa danas ima samo tisuÊu i pol stanovnika, no to nije ni blizu populacijskom vrhuncu u zlatnom dobu komiπkog ribarstva u poËetku 20. stoljeÊa. Doduπe, ljeti se populacija Komiæe viπestruko poveÊa gostima s kopna, no veÊ s prvim jesenskim vjetrovima plaæe opuste i grad se vrati uobiËajenom jesensko-zimsko-proljetnome æivotnom ritmu.

U vrijeme austrougarske uprave komiπka opÊina imala je viπe od 5000 stanovnika.

Meu starijim Komiæanima i danas se moæe Ëuti njihov cokavski govor, specifiËna podvrsta Ëakavskog narjeËja. Stariji ljudi svoje mjesto nazivaju Komiza.

Komiæa se kao naselje prvi put spominje 1145. godine kao Val Comeza u darovnici zadarskoga kneza Petra koji je vladao srednjodalmatinskim otocima. Po svemu sudeÊi, benediktinska opatija i mjesto postojali su ovdje i prije. Jedna od teorija o nastanku imena Komiæa kaæe da je nastalo od rijeËi Com Issa, πto doslovno znaËi Mjesto Pokraj Isse, antiËkog naselja na mjestu danaπnjeg Visa. Vjerojatno su veÊ Grci i Rimljani utemeljili naselje u komiπkom zaljevu, no dosad o tome nisu pronaeni materijalni dokazi.

Povijesni zapisi svjedoËe da je Komiæa bila prvo naselje na hrvatskoj obali koje je posjetio rimski papa. Naime, 1177. godine papu su Aleksandra III. ribari s Palagruæe, kamo se sklonio od nevremena na putu za Veneciju, prevezli do Komiæe. Tom je prilikom posvetio crkvu svetog Nikole, a zatim nastavio put prema Zadru i Rabu.

PriËa o razvitku Komiæe u iduÊim stoljeÊima neraskidivo je isprepletena s priËom o komiπkom ribarstvu i preradi ribe - priËom o putu do vrha i poniranju do dna. Naime, pod mletaËkom vladavinom Komiæa je zajedno s Visom pripadala hvarskoj opÊini te se poËela ubrzano razvijati kao srediπte ribarstva na srednjem Jadranu. Bogatstvo steËeno ulovom, preradom i prodajom ribe omoguÊilo je Komiæanima da u ono doba æive naprednim æivotnim stilom. O nekadaπnjoj ekonomskoj snazi Komiæe i danas svjedoËe crkve, utvrde i velike kuÊe sagraene u doba mletaËke dominacije nad Jadranom.

Pod austrijskom upravom, od 1815. do 1918. godine, Komiæa je postala samostalna opÊina te prerasla u dobro organizirani gradiÊ sa svim potrebnim sadræajima. U poËetku 20. stoljeÊa sagraen je velik lukobran i ureena luka, a u mjestu je bilo Ëak sedam tvornica za preradu ribe. NajveÊa meu njima, tvornica Fratelli MardeπiÊ, izvozila je sardine Ëak i u Ameriku.

Propast austrougarske dræave 1918. godine bio je ujedno i poËetak dugog razdoblja stagnacije Komiæe. Iako je otok Vis postao dio Kraljevine SHS, osnova komiπkoga gospodarstva, bogata ribolovna podruËja oko Palagruæe, pripala su Italiji i ostala u njezinu sastavu sve do 1947. godine. Zbog oslabljenih ribarskih moguÊnosti, ali i bolesti vinove loze koja je pokosila vinogradarstvo, Komiæu su zadesili teπki dan i mnogi su stanovnici bili prisiljenii poÊi trbuhom za kruhom u daleki svijet. VeÊina se iselila u Kaliforniju te se ondje nastavila baviti onime πto su najbolje znali ribarstvom. Neke procjene govore i o 20.000 - 25.000 Komiæana i njihovih potomaka u Americi. Procjenjuje se da u San Pedru, koji je danas dio Los Angelesa, æivi deset puta viπe Komiæana nego u samome mjestu.

I nakon Drugoga svjetskog rata nastavilo se propadanje otoka, a s njim i Komiæe. Zbog vojne izolacije otoka Visa velik dio mlade populacije odselio se na kopno, a turizam se desetljeÊima nije ozbiljnije pribliæio otoku.

SreÊom, nakon osamostaljenja Hrvatske i odlaska vojske zapuhali su ipak na otoku neki novi vjetrovi. VeÊ 1993. godine obnovljena je komiπka opÊina, a 1997. dobila je status grada. Gradu pripadaju naselja Borovik, Duboka, OkljuËna, Podhumlje, Podπpilje, Æena Glava te otoci Biπevo, Palagruæa i Sveti Andrija (Svetac), kao i otoËiÊi vulkanskog podrijetla Brusnik i Jabuka.

Na prvi pogled Komiæa je tipiËno mediteransko mjesto s uskim ulicama i kamenim kuÊama stisnutima oko luke. Krivudave komiπke ulice ispunjene su starim i novim kamenim kuÊama visokima nekoliko katova, meu kojima se skrivaju mali vrtovi i terase. ©eÊuÊi po tome kamenom labirintu, nije teπko izgubiti orijentaciju, no jednako je jednostavno izvuÊi se iz uskih ulica jer svi putovi vode na rivu.

Za mjesto poput Komiæe riva je ono πto je glavni trg za kontinentalne gradove - mjesto okupljanja, druæenja, razgovora o noÊaπnjem ulovu ribe, rasprave o malim mirovinama i velikim problemima te o milijunima drugih velikih i malih stvari. Sve πto se dogaa u Komiæi, dogaa se na tome polukruænome, nekoliko stotina metara dugaËkom pojasu izmeu kuÊa i mora. Doduπe, poπta, trænica, πkola i autobusna postaja nalaze se u susjednim ulicama, a hotel Biπevo (jedini u mjestu) joπ

tristotinjak metara dalje, no sva ta mjesta nisu ni pribliæno tako zanimljiva kao riva. Nema te novosti koja se neÊe usmenom predajom na rivi zaËas proπiriti meu Komiæanima, jer tu se sve zna i vidi.

Duæ rive nanizale su se malene trgovine i restorani s terasama, a na samome kraju, gdje zavrπava luka i poËinje lukobran, stoji najljepπe i najprepoznatljivije komiπko zdanje - mletaËki kaπtel Grimaldi sa satnim tornjiÊem, zvan Komuna. Masivni kameni zidovi renesansnoga Ëetvrtastog kaπtela iz 1585. godine bude poπtovanje prema proπlosti i pozivaju da zavirite i otkrijete πto se nalazi unutar njih.

Za razliku od veÊine naπih gradova, najveÊe i najslikovitije komiπke crkve ne nalaze se u srediπtu, nego na rubovima mjesta, podalje od kuÊa - to su crkva Gospe Gusarice na sjevernom kraju zaljeva te æupna crkva sv. Nikole na osamljenome dominantnom breæuljku s druge, juæne strane grada. Dok Êe crkvu sv.

Nikole pri dolasku u Komiæu opaziti svatko, Ëempresima zakrivenu crkvu Gospe Gusarice otkrit Êe samo onaj tko se iz znatiæelje ili æelje za osvjeæenjem u moru zaputi u πetnju na kraj mjesta, do najljepπe komiπke plaæe. Crkva je zapravo posveÊena svetoj Mariji, ali poznatija je po nazivu koji je dobila prema legendi o gusarskoj krai Gospine slike.

Cijelu Komiæu, od Gospe Gusarice do sv.

Nikole ili obratno, moæete proÊi za pola sata πetnje, no ne treba æuriti, a kod sv. Nikole vrijedi se zadræati i dulje. Tu su ostaci benediktinskog samostana, a u hladovini uspravnih visokih Ëempresa, uz crkvu, groblje - vjekovno poËivaliπte Komiæana. Bezvremenska tiπina te raskoπan vidik na prostranstvo mora s otocima Biπevom i Svecem u daljini zovu na razmiπljanje. Tu je, meu ostalima, pokopan i besmrtni velikan naπe knjiæevnosti Ranko MarinkoviÊ, rodom iz komiπke obitelji. Prema vlastitoj æelji i nadahnuÊu, zatraæio je da mu zadnje tjelesno utoËiπte bude upravo ovdje na komiπkom groblju.

Tijekom naπeg posjeta groblju uz crkvu sv.

Nikole zatekli smo australsku obitelj koja se nakon 38 godina boravka na svom kontinentu zaputila na drugi kraj svijeta da bi djeci pokazala zemlju svojih predaka. U nekoliko πkrto, s australskim naglaskom izgovorenih hrvatskih rijeËi, moglo se razabrati sve ono πto je ispunilo njihova srca u tom trenutku. Iako su svi oni roeni u novoj domovini na suprotnoj strani zemaljske kugle, Hrvatsku i Komiæu doæivljavaju kao svoju domovinu, ishodiπte æivotnih putova i nadanja svojih djedova.

Prostor kod crkve sv. Nikole uvijek je ispunjen skladnom tiπinom koja Ëovjeka navodi da razgovara πaptom, iako glasno izgovorenu rijeË nema tko Ëuti. Prostor oko crkve ispuni se CROATIA AIRLINES

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æamorom samo tijekom pogreba te 6. prosinca, na blagdan sv. Nikole, zaπtitnika putnika, pomoraca i ribara, a ujedno i Dan grada.

Vjekovima vezani uz more, Komiæani su saËuvali pradavni obiËaj pogreba broda ispred crkve na taj najsveËaniji dan u godini. Spaljivanje broda kao ærtve za spas svih brodova koji plove simbolizira stoljetnu vezu Komiæana s brodovima, jer oni su im bili temelj egzistencije i jamstvo opstanka. U kulturi ljudi kojima je more sudbina brod nije predmet, nego biÊe - brod se krsti, dodjeljuje mu se ime, a kad otplovi æivotni krug, pokapa se spaljivanjem na svetome mjestu.

Sve do 1986. godine mogle su se u komiπkoj luci vidjeti originalne komiπke ribarske brodice zvane falkuπe. Falkuπe su bile jedinstvene brodice Komiæana, gajete dugaËke 9, a πiroke 2,90 metara. Jarbol im je bio visok 9 metara, a mogle su nositi posadu od πest ribara i gotovo osam tona ribe. Od ostalih brodica razlikovale su se i po materijalu od kojega su bile graene - gradile su se iskljuËivo od borovine s otoka Sveca, koja se smatrala najkvalitetnijom.

Kobilica je bila od hrastovine, a oplata od ariπa. Rubne strane brodice visine do jednoga metra mogle su se uklanjati i ponovno stavljati,

prema potrebi. Za ribarenja bile su uklonjene zbog lakπeg podizanja mreæe, dok su za jedrenja bile postavljene tako da spreËavaju prelijevanje mora u falkuπu.

Osim jedrima, falkuπe su bile opremljene i veslima kojima su ribari mogli pokretati brodice tijekom bonace. Za povoljnih vjetrova gajete su stizale i do Palagruæe za πest sati, ostvarujuÊi brzinu i do 10 nautiËkih milja na sat. Zadnju originalnu komiπku falkuπu Cicibelu potopila je i razbila jaka nevera u kolovozu 1986. godine.

SreÊom, tradicija gradnje falkuπe obnovljena je i tri nove gajete danas sluæe u turistiËke svrhe. Replika falkuπe predstavljala je hrvatsku maritimnu baπtinu na svjetskoj izloæbi EXPO 1998. godine u Lisabonu.

Legendarna falkuπa samo je jedan od simbola komiπke pomorske tradicije i podsjetnik da je upravo Komiæa bila srediπte ribarstva na istoËnoj obali Jadrana. Komiπki ribari ne samo da su svojim brodicama gospodarili Jadranom i trgovali ribom sa susjednom obalom, nego su i kao iseljenici stvarali ribarska srediπta na pacifiËkim obalama obiju Amerika. Iako je u komiπkom akvatoriju uvijek bilo dovoljno kvalitetne ribe, u poËetku ribarske sezone, da bi se izbjegli sukobi meu ribarima, organizirane

su ribarske regate. Topovski hitac s kaπtela oznaËio bi poËetak regate i oni bræi, jaËi i spretniji zauzeli su bolje poloæaje za ribolov za cijelu sezonu.

Cjelokupna je povijest otoka Visa vezana s jedne strane za ribarstvo, a s druge za vinogradarstvo i vinarstvo koje je i danas, uz turizam, osnova gospodarstva. O bogatoj ribarskoj proπlosti danas najbolje svjedoËi Ribarski muzej u mletaËkom kaπtelu Grimaldi, meu mjeπtanima zvani Komuna. U muzeju se Ëuva zanimljiva zbirka tradicionalnih ribolovnih alata te najveÊa zbirka ribarskih Ëvorova na svijetu (140 Ëvorova). Osim toga, u prizemlju je restaurirani primjerak komiπke gajete falkuπe - osobite vrste ribarskog broda koji je simbol komiπkog ribarstva.

Muzej je prikupljanjem tradicionalnih ribarskih alata mnogih komiπkih obitelji 1986. godine utemeljilo Druπtvo prijatelja kulturne i prirodne baπtine otoka Visa. ZahvaljujuÊi ribarima na Ëelu s Ivanom VitaljiÊem Guslom, koji je napravio zbirku uzlova i mreæa te opremio posljednju gajetu falkuπu, stradalu u brodolomu, saËuvano je sjeÊanje na naraπtaje ribara koji su tim za danaπnje pojmove primitivnim alatima i mreæama pleli stoljetnu komiπku ribarsku

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priËu. Osim konopa i mreæa, u muzeju Êete vidjeti originalne konzerve i sanduke koji su se punili u komiπkim tvornicama za preradu ribe prije i poslije Drugoga svjetskog rata, a na kraju obilaska bit Êete s gornje terase kaπtela nagraeni nezaboravnim vidikom na komiπku luku.

Nas je osobito oduπevilo to πto su u muzeju objaπnjenja uz izloπke ispisana rukom, pomalo nevjeπto, ali vrlo uredno - baπ onako kako i priliËi zbirci koja predoËuje autohtonu baπtinu.

Jednostavnije bi to bilo uËiniti s pomoÊu raËunala i pisaËa, no nijedan raËunalni font ne moæe zamijeniti neposrednost i toplinu poruke ispisane ribarskom rukom. Kad se neki zapis podere ili izblijedi, ili se jednostavno dosjetim neËega novoga, napiπem novu cedulju i zalijepim je na zid, tim nam je rijeËima simpatiËni domaÊin otkrio da je upravo on autor tih muzejskih zapisa. Osim o tome, rado Êe vam govoriti o svemu πto vas zanima, pokazati svaki alat, a nakon popriliËno vremena shvatit Êete iznenaeno da vam njegova dugaËka i opπirna priËa nije nimalo dosadila, nego, naprotiv, probudila nova pitanja i proπirila obzore. Na kraju posjeta vjerojatno Êete ga upitati: ©jor, moæemo li s vama na more, u ribe?

Proteklo je viπe od dva tisuÊljeÊa od prve pisane pohvale viπkom vinu, a danas malo tko nije Ëuo za vugavu i plavac mali. Uz domaÊe vino iz podhumskih sela, gosti ovdje mogu kuπati i lokalne kulinarske specijalitete - komiπku pogaËu, jela ispod peke, srdele na raænju, faæol i manistru na brujet. Doduπe, za nepce koje nije nauËeno na okus soli glavni specijalitet usoljena riba u presavijenoj pogaËi (komiπka pogaËa) - bit Êe preslan, no i to treba razumjeti jer se, prije nego πto su izumljeni hladionici, riba mogla Ëuvati jedino soljenjem, a soli je u Komiæi uvijek bilo dovoljno. ©toviπe, Komiæani Êe vam kroz πalu reÊi da je ima i previπe morska sol koja isuπuje zrak brzo im uniπti sve elektroniËke ureaje pa oni ne mogu trajati dulje od nekoliko godina.

Poklonici sporta i aktivnog odmora na otoku Visu mogu birati izmeu padobranskog jedrenja, ronjenja, jahanja, πetnji po prirodi obiljeæenim pjeπaËkim stazama, kriketa te mnogih izleta po otoku, kao i do susjednih otoka. Planinarski raspoloæeni gosti popet Êe se na brdo Hum do kapele sv. Duha. Na dvadesetak lokacija oko otoka, u morskim dubinama, ima potopljenih aviona, jedrenjaka, podmornica i ratnih brodova. Kad ste u Komiæi, nemojte propustiti posjetiti otok Biπevo nasuprot nje. Biπevske uvale prekrasne su za kupanje, a staze po cijelom otoku omoguÊavaju ugodnu πetnju i uæivanje u πirokim vidicima na beskrajnu puËinu. Ipak, najljepπi je fenomen Biπeva Modra πpilja, u 114

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uvali Balun na istoËnoj strani otoka. ©pilja je dostupna za posjet joπ od 1884. godine, kad je probijen ulaz kroz koji se u πpilju ulazi malim Ëamcem na vesla. ©pilja ima dva otvora, jedan manji, umjetno produbljen, kroz koji moæe proÊi Ëamac na vesla i taj otvor nema utjecaja na rasvjetu u πpilji. Drugi je otvor poput svoda i mnogo je πiri, a nalazi se na juænoj strani πpilje ispod razine mora te kroz njega prodire SunËeva svjetlost. Oko podneva za mirnoga mora SunËeve zrake prodiru kroz podvodni otvor u πpilju, reflektiraju se od bijelog dna i osvjetljavaju πpilju neopisivo lijepom modrom svjetloπÊu, a predmete u vodi srebrnastim sjajem.

Kad ste u Komiæi, na tome zaËaranom rubu svijeta, na uspavanoj rivi ili πljunËanoj plaæi iza Ëijih granica poËinje nedokuËivi svijet mora, znat Êete da ste doπli na pravo mjesto. A kad se vratite, s oduπevljenjem Êete prepriËavati priËu o skladnome mediteranskom gradiÊu na rubu otoka, skladnom biseru stopljenome s beskrajnim plavetnilom koje ga okruæuje, mjestu gdje vrijeme i prostor imaju jedinstven smisao. Nadajmo se samo da Êe otoËani imati dovoljno razboritosti i snage da zaprijeËe sve ono πto bi, u ime razvitka turizma, moglo uniπtiti krhku Ëaroliju Komiæe. Ona je neponovljiva upravo zato πto je tako neiskvarena i neokaljana, baπ onakva iskonska kakva je oduvijek bila.

Komiæu mnogi poznaju upravo po njezinome ljetnome, pomalo uπminkanome i vedrom licu, no veÊi dio godine ona spava tihim zimskim snom. VeÊ u rujnu, kad mine uobiËajena ljetna gungula, Komiæa ponovno postaje mirno ribarsko mjesto. Zbog blage klime, boravak u Komiæi ugodan je i u tim hladnijim mjesecima.

■ ndeed, it is amazing how easily Komiæa awakens feelings of nostalgia, even in those people who only spent a day there.

If you ask your friends and acquaintances about Komiæa, they will not be able to impartially describe exactly what is so special and unique about it. Moreover, there are no words to describe the feeling of all-encompassing fulfilment they experienced there. Only those who were never to Komiæa can be impartial to it.

Komiæa is located on the western coast of the island of Vis, in a deep bay facing the open sea. On the eastern side it is protected by the hillside named Hum, almost 600 meters high, and on the northern and southern sides by somewhat lower, but equally steep, rocky hills whose slopes descend all the way to the coasts of the bay. Such a position, which is connected to an expansive agricultural terri-

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tory, has determined the historical orientation of Komiæa towards the sea and fishery. Komiæa is known precisely for its fishing tradition, which was perpetuated by the emigrants from Komiæa all the way to North America.

Across St. Michael’s Pass, a 10-kilometre long road connects Komiæa with the town of Vis. On the south side of Hum, Komiæa can be reached by an old island road which is somewhat narrower and twice as long. Even though the ferry disembarks in Vis on the opposite side of the island, the rhythm of life on the entire island, including in Komiæa, is set according to the departures and arrivals of ferries and catamarans. For mainland people, taking a ferry to the island has an almost mythical dimension - setting off from the coast towards an island means leaving behind all the mainland worries and letting go to the serenity of the sea and islands. For islanders, taking a ferry is anything but a summer adventure - as much as the ship connections enable them to have lives on the island which are as similar as possible to life on the mainland, the distance and travelling are unavoidable parts of their existences.

Today Komiæa has only fifteen hundred inhabitants. However, this is not even close to the population peak it reached in the golden age of Komiæan fishery in the early 1900s.

Naturally, the summer season doubles the population of Komiæa with visitors from the mainland, but when the first autumn winds come along the beaches are deserted again and the town returns to its habitual autumnwinter-spring rhythm. During the Austro-Hungarian government, the municipality of Komiæa had more than 5000 inhabitants. Some of the elderly Komiæans still use the characteristic co-dialect, a specific variant of the Ëa-dialect.

The elderly also call their town Komiza.

The first traces of Komiæa as a settlement date back to 1145. It was called Val Comeza and was mentioned in a deed of a gift from Prince Peter of Zadar, who had ruled the central Dalmatian islands. By all accounts, the Benedictine abbey and the town had existed even before. One of the theories about the name of Komiæa says that it was a derivative of the word Com Issa, literally meaning a place near Issa, the ancient settlement on the location of today’s Vis. The Greeks and Romans most probably established a community in the bay of Komiæa, however no material evidence has been found to testify to that fact.

Historical records state that Komiæa was the first settlement along the Croatian coast visited by the Roman Pope. In 1177, Pope Alexander III was transported to Komiæa by fishermen from Palagruæa, where he took

shelter from a storm on his way to Venice.

On that occasion he consecrated the Church of St. Nicholas before continuing his journey towards Zadar and Rab. The story of Komiæa’s development is inextricably linked with the story of Komiæan fishery and fish processing - a true story about its rise and fall. Under the Venetian government, both Komiæa and Vis were part of the municipality of Hvar and began developing rapidly as a fishing centre in the central part of the Adriatic. The riches acquired by fishing, fish processing and selling enabled the people of Komiæa to live a progressive and modern lifestyle. Churches, forts and mansions built during the times of Venetian rule over the Adriatic still stand as testimonies to the former economic power of Komiæa.

Under the Austrian government, from 1815 to 1818, Komiæa became an independent municipality and grew into a well organised town with all the necessary amenities. In the early 1900s, a large pier and functional harbour were built, and in the town there were seven factories for fish processing. The largest, Fratelli MardeπiÊ, exported sardines all the way to the United States of America.

The fall of the Austro-Hungarian reign in 1918 was also the beginning of a long period of stagnation for Komiæa. Even though Vis became a part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croatians and Slovenes, the basis of Komiæa’s economy, the rich fishing zones around Palagruæa, became a part of Italy and remained so until 1947. Due to a weakened fishing potential, but also vine disease that decimated the grape-growing business, Komiæa faced a rough period and many inhabitants were forced to leave their homes and seek a better life in other parts of the world. Most of them moved to California and continued doing what they did best - fishing. Some estimates even speak of 20 to 25 thousand Komiæans and their descendants in America. Estimates say that in San Pedro, today a part of Los Angeles, there are ten times more Komiæans than in Komiæa.

The end of World War II marked the downfall of the islands, including Komiæa. Due to the military isolation of the island of Vis, a large part of the young population moved to the mainland, and no signs of tourism were seen anywhere on the island. Luckily, Croatian independence and the army’s departure changed that climate to a certain extent. In 1993 the municipality of Komiæa was restored, and in 1997 it was granted the status of a town. The villages Borovik, Duboka, OkljuËna, Podhumlje, Podπpilje, Æena Glava and the islands Biπevo, Palagruæa and Sveti Andrija CROATIA AIRLINES

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(Svetac) also belong to the town, as well as the volcanic islands Brusnik and Jabuka.

At first sight Komiæa is a typical Mediterranean place with narrow alleys and stone houses squeezed around the harbour. The winding alleys of Komiæa are filled with old and new stone houses several storeys high, which hide quaint gardens and terraces. It is easy to get lost while walking around that stone maze, but it is also easy to find a way out of the narrow alleys because all the roads lead to the quay. The quay is, to a place like Komiæa, what a square is to continental towns - a place of gathering, socialising, talking about last night’s fishing success, discussing inadequate pensions and world issues, as well as tons of other things. In Komiæa, everything happens along that semicircular, a belt that is several hundred metres long between the houses and the sea. True, the post office, market, school and bus stop are located in the neighbouring alleys, and the Biπevo Hotel (the only one in town) is another 300 metres away, but all these locations are not nearly as interesting as the quay. There is no news that would not be heard through the quay’s grapevine in a blink, because nothing can be hidden here.

Along the quay there are small shops and restaurant terraces, while at the very end, where the harbour ends and the pier begins, there lies the most recognisable building in Komiæa - the Venetian Grimaldi citadel with the clock tower called Komuna. The massive stone walls of the rectangular Renaissance citadel from 1585 inspire respect for the past and invite you to take a peek and discover what is behind them. Unlike most of our towns, 116

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the largest and most picturesque churches of Komiæa are not located in the centre, but rather on the outskirts of the town away from the houses - the Church of Our Lady of Pirates on the northern part of the bay, and the parish Church of St. Nicholas on the lonesome dominant hillside on the other, southern part of the town. While St. Nicholas’ Church is noticeable by everyone on their arrival to Komiæa, Our Lady of Pirates, obscured by high cypresses, will be discovered only by the ones whose curiosity or wish for refreshment in the sea takes them on a hike to the end of the town and the most beautiful beach in Komiæa. The church was in fact dedicated to the Virgin Mary, but is more famous for the name it got based on a legend of the pirates who stole the painting of the Madonna.

All of Komiæa, from Our Lady of the Pirates to St. Nicholas or the other way around, can be crossed in a half hour’s walk, but there is no need for haste, and St. Nicholas is even worth a closer look. The remainders of the Benedictine monastery are there, alongside the graveyard, the eternal resting place of the people of Komiæa - in the shade of the tall cypresses near the church. Timeless silence and a glorious view of the infinite sea with the islands of Biπevo and Svetac in the distance call for contemplation. Among others, the great immortal of Croatian literature, Ranko MarinkoviÊ, a Komiæan by origin, was buried there. It was his own wish and inspiration for his last earthly haven to be precisely this small cemetery in Komiæa.

While visiting the cemetery beside St. Nicholas’ Church, we met an Australian family who

after living for 38 years on a different continent set out to the other side of the world in order to show their children the country of their ancestors. From the few brief Croatian words spoken with a heavy Aussie accent, one could discern everything their hearts were filled with at that moment. Although all of them were born in another homeland, on the other side of the globe, they perceive Croatia and Komiæa as their homeland, the origin of their paths in life and their grandparents’ hopes.

The space around St. Nicholas is always filled with a harmonious silence that makes us whisper, even though there is no one to hear the words spoken out loud. Sounds can be heard only during funerals and on St. Nicholas’ Day, the patron saint of travellers, seamen and fi shermen, which is also the Festival of the Town.

Bound to the sea for centuries, the Komiæans have preserved the ancient tradition of the ship’s funeral on that day, the most festive day of the year. Burning a ship as a sacrifice for the salvation of all the ships that are still sailing symbolises the centuries-long connection between the Komiæans and ships, the basis of their existence and guarantee of their survival. In a culture with people whose destiny is the sea, a ship is not an object, but a creature - a ship is baptised, she is given a name and once her life cycle is over, she is buried on a pyre at a holy place.

Up until 1986, original Komiæan fishing boats, called falkuπa, could be seen in the harbour.

The falkuπa was a unique Komiæan vessel.

This fishing boat was 9 metres long and 2.90 metres wide. Her mast was 9 metres high and

she could carry a crew of six fishermen and almost eight tons of fish. She differed from other boats because of the material she was made of - exclusively the pinewood from the island of Svetac, which was considered the best. The keel was made of oak-wood and panelled with larch-wood. The bordering sides of the boat, up to one metre high, could be removed and reattached, according to necessity. While fishing they were removed for easier net-pulling, while during sailing they were attached as to prevent the sea from spilling into the falkuπa.

In addition to the sails, falkuπas were equipped with oars used by the fishermen to move the boat when the wind was low. In favourable winds it took these fishing boats six hours to reach Palagruæa, achieving a speed of up to ten nautical miles per hour. The last original

Komiæan falkuπa, the Cicibela, was sunk and smashed by a strong storm in August 1986.

Luckily, the tradition of falkuπa building was renewed and today three new fishing boats serve for tourist purposes. A replica of the falkuπa represented the Croatian maritime heritage at the EXPO World Exhibition in Lisbon in 1998.

The legendary falkuπa is only one of the symbols of Komiæan marine tradition and a reminder that Komiæa used to be the very centre of fishery on the eastern Adriatic coast. Komiæan fishermen were not only the true masters of the Adriatic and fish traders with the neighbouring coasts, but they also, as immigrants, created fishing hubs on the Pacific coasts of both Americas. Even though there has always been enough good fish in the

Komiæan region, at the beginning of the fishing season fishing regattas were organised in order to avoid conflicts among the fishermen.

A cannon fired from the citadel would mark the beginning of the regatta and the faster, stronger and more able would earn better fishing positions - for the entire season.

The entire history of the island of Vis is connected on one hand with fishery and on the other with grape and wine growing, which still form the basis of its economy, alongside tourism. The rich fishing past is today best seen in the Museum of Fishery, located in the Venetian Grimaldi citadel, called Komuna by the locals. The museum preserves an interesting collection of traditional fishing tools and the largest collection of fishing knots in the world (140 knots). Also, on the ground floor

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there is a restored example of the Komiæan fishing boat falkuπa - a special type of vessel that symbolises the Komiæan fishing tradition.

The museum was founded in 1986 by the Society of the Friends of Cultural and Natural Heritage of the Island of Vis. They did this by gathering traditional fishing tools from numerous Komiæan families. Thanks to the fishermen, led by Ivan VitaljiÊ Gusla, who compiled the collection of knots and nets and equipped the last shipwrecked falkuπa, the memory of the generations of fishermen, who have woven the centuries-long Komiæan fishing tale using what we would today call primitive tools and nets, was preserved. In addition to ropes and nets, in the museum one can also see original cans and boxes from the Komiæan fish processing factories before and after World War II, and at the end of the tour the visitors are rewarded with an unforgettable view of the Komiæa harbour from the upper side of the citadel.

What we were particularly thrilled with was the fact that the exhibit’s captions were handwritten, somewhat ineptly, but extremely neatly -just as it suits a collection akin to authentic heritage. It would be much easier to write them with the help of a computer and printer, but no computer font can replace the candidness and warmth of a fisherman’s handwritten note. When a paper is torn or fades, or I simply think of something new, I write a new caption and stick it to the wall, were the words the kind host used to reveal that he was the author of the explanations. Besides that, he will gladly inform you about anything you wish to know, show you every tool, and after a significant amount of time you will realise, to your surprise, that his long and detailed tale did not bore you at all, but quite the contrary, it made you wish to know more and opened up some new horizons. At the end of your visit you will probably ask him: Sir, would you mind if we went fishing with you?

More than two millenniums have passed since the first written praise of the wine of Vis, and today the varieties vugava and plavac mali are widely known. In addition to homemade wine from the villages of Podhumlje, visitors can also taste local specialties - the Komiæan bread, food prepared under a castiron bell, sardines roasted on a spit, beans and brodetto soup. However, a palate unused to the taste of salt will find the main specialty -salted fish in a calzone (Komiæan bread) - too salty, but we should bear in mind that before the invention of freezers fish could be stored only by salting, and Komiæa has always had plenty of salt. Moreover, they will jokingly tell you that they have too much of it - sea salt 118

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desiccates the air and quickly destroys all electronic devices, making them last only for a few years.

On the island of Vis, fans of athletic activities and active holidays can choose between paragliding, diving, horseback riding, nature trekking along marked trails, cricket and numerous trips around the island, as well as visit the neighbouring islands. Visitors in the mood for hiking can visit the Hum hillside and climb to the Chapel of the Holy Spirit. At around twenty locations on the island there are wrecked and sunken planes, sailboats, submarines and war ships. When in Komiæa, make sure to visit the island of Biπevo right across the bay. The bays of Biπevo are fantastic for swimming and trails all over the island offer a nice place to walk and enjoy unobstructed views of the endless sea. Still, the most beautiful phenomenon of Biπevo is the Blue Cave located in the Balun Bay, on the eastern side of the island. The cave has been open to visitors since 1884 when an entrance to the cave was made which enabled small boats to row in. The cave has two openings, a smaller one, artificially dug, for boats to come in, which has no influence on the light in the cave. The other opening is like a ceiling, much wider, and located on the south side of the cave below sea level, through which sunlight penetrates. Around noon, when the sea is still, sunlight enters the cave through the underwater opening, reflects off the white bottom and shines an unspeakably beautiful blue light on the cave’s inside and a silver glow on the objects in the water.

In Komiæa, the magical end of the world, on the sleepy quay or pebbled beaches beyond the limits of which the incomprehensible world of the sea begins, you will know you came to the right place. When you return, you will enthusiastically tell the story of a harmonious Mediterranean town on the very end of the island, a real gemstone drenched in the blue infinity surrounding it, a place where time and space make unique sense. We hope the islanders will have enough prudence and strength to banish anything that might, on behalf of the development of tourism, destroy the fragile magic of Komiæa. It is unique only because it is so genuine and untainted, as authentic as it once was.

Komiæa is known by many for its summers, somewhat embellished, and its gleeful side.

However, for the most part of the year it sleeps in a quiet hibernation. Already in September, when the usual summer buzz calms down, Komiæa again turns into a serene fishing village. Due to the mild climate, a stay in Komiæa is pleasant in the colder months as well. ■

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■ NAŠA ODREDIŠTA OUR DESTINATIONS

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Piše/By Anika Reπetar Fotografije/Photos Nenad DrmiÊ

GRAD KOJI NADAHNJUJE A CITY TH AT INSPIRES CROATIA AIRLINES

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NjemaËku pokrajinu Bavarsku pohodi najviπe turista. Nezaobilazni magnet za posjetitelje glavni je bavarski grad München, globalno poznat po slavlju piva Oktoberfestu, ali ne samo po tome. München je bogat grad, koji to ne skriva, grad otmjenih trgovina i velebnih muzeja, elektronskih i raËunalnih tvrtki, vodeÊi u informatiËkoj tehnologiji, grad laptopa ali i lederhozni, grad oËuvane tradicije i gastronomskih uæitaka, koji poziva da se odvaæimo na joπ viπe i joπ bolje… Grad koji, kao i Bavarska, odmara, ali i nadahnjuje…

The German province Bavaria attracts the most tourists. An unavoidable magnet for visitors, the main city of Bavaria, Munich, is world-renown for its celebration of beer, Oktoberfest, but not only for that. Munich is a rich city, which does not hide that fact. It is a city of stylish shops and marvellous museums, electronic and computer companies, the leader in information technology, the city of laptops and lederhosen, and a city of preserved traditions and gastronomic pleasures which invites us to take even more and even better adventures... A city which, like Bavaria, relaxes, but also inspires...

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anjenost i stamenost, poetiËnost i silina kao da cure sa slika jednoga od najveÊih ameriËkih umjetnika 20. st., Cya Twomblya. Nije lako odmaknuti se od njih, a i kad ih napustite i vratite se u vlastitu svakodnevicu, one i dalje æive u vama, opsjedaju vas, rovare i mijenjaju vam unutarnji doæivljajni krajolik. Te su slike sinteza duha klasiËne antike i ranjenosti, ali ne i izgubljenosti suvremena autora. Twombly je preminuo u srpnju 2011., a njegove slike veÊ godinama na aukcijama postiæu dvoznamenkaste milijunske iznose. Ali tek sada πira je javnost saznala da se najveÊa zbirka njegovih djela, osim u Americi, moæe vidjeti u muzeju Brandhorst u Münchenu, otvorenome 2009. godine.

Svoju golemu zbirku suvremene umjetnosti (Picasso,Warhol, Beuys, Polke, Baselitz, Hirst, Kounellis...) braËni par Anette i Udo Brandhorst odluËili su darovati Münchenu i izloæiti je u muzeju Ëija arhitektura veÊ brusi i oblikuje doæivljajne kapacitete promatraËa, a smjeπten je tik do Pinakoteke Moderne u tzv. Kunstarealu Münchena, koji joπ tvore Alte Pinakothek (sadræava djela Dürera, Rafaela, Tintoretta, Rubensa, Pietera i Jana Brueghela, Rembrandta..) i Neue Pinakothek (s djelima Moneta, Van Gogha, Cezannea, Maneta...).

Anette Brandhorst jedna je od nasljednica dinastije Henkel (Persill, Schwarzkopf), a od mladosti je kupovala i podræavala rad suvremenih umjetnika. Zaklada braËnog para Brandhorst osnovana je sa 120,000.000 eura, a statut zaklade predvia izdvajanje od dva milijuna eura na godinu za kupnju novih djela. Usporedbe radi, susjedna Pinakoteka Moderne raspolaæe sa samo 40.000 eura na godinu za istu svrhu. Zanimljivo je da je Anette Brandhorst bila i predsjednica kuratorija zaklade Gerde Henkel, koja svake druge godine dodjeljuje nagradu za najbolji historiografski rad u iznosu od 100.000 eura. (Podatak ne Ëudi kad se zna da je veÊ osnivaË gospodarskog diva, njezin pradjed, dio profita izdvajao za mirovine vlastitih radnika u vrijeme kad joπ uopÊe nisu postojali mirovinski fondovi!)

Umjetnost, znanost i socijalna osvijeπtenost perjanice su njemaËkog duha i nadahnuÊe inæenjerima, skladateljima, medicinarima i mnogobrojnim poduzetnicima, pa onda ne Ëudi πto se tik do muzeja Brandhorst, tj.

Kunstareala, nalazi i TehniËko sveuËiliπte sa 13 fakulteta, Ëetiri nobelovca, 26.000 studenata (20 posto stranaca), a malo dalje, laganim hodom od 10 minuta, upravna je zgrada SveuËiliπta Ludwig-Maximilian s 18 fakulteta i 47.000 studenata, na kojima joπ æivi humboldtovski ideal kombinacije nastave i krajnje posveÊenosti istraæivaËkom radu.

Stanovnici bivπih socijalistiËkih zemalja najËeπÊe bi dolazili studirati uz pomoÊ stipendija DAAD, a ostajali bi iznenaeni maksimalnom satnicom nastave od 16 sati,

R

æivom raspravom na seminarima i visokim zahtjevima znanstvenoistraæivaËkog rada za seminarske radnje, koje su bile ispiti, za razliku od πtrebanja podataka i njihove reprodukcije profesorima. Pet minuta hoda od TehniËkog sveuËiliπta nalazi se i SiemensForum, u kojemu moæete na lak i pregledan naËin spoznati logiku razvoja poduzeÊa starog viπe od 150 godina. Razvoj elektrotehnike i elektronike predoËen je na naËin koji, uz tehniËke izume, pokazuje i modalitete njihove gospodarske eksploatacije, ali i promjene koje proizvodi unose u druπtvo i æivotne navike pojedinaca.

Uvaæavanje znanosti i brzina primjene znanstvenih postignuÊa u industriji i danas su kljuË uspjeha njemaËkog Ëuda. Tako se primjerice najveÊi muzej u Münchenu zove Deutsches Museum, a smjeπten je u velebnoj zgradi na rijeci Isar. Kolekcija zauzima 19 km hodnika i πest katova na kojima je smjeπten tek dio od 100.000 izloæaka u viπe od trideset odjela.

Muzej prati postignuÊa s podruËja prirodnih znanosti i tehnike od kamenog doba pa sve do danas, obuhvaÊa sve od rudarstva, industrijskih strojeva, prvih letjelica pa do Ëuda atomske fizike. U tome je muzeju uvijek vrlo æiva atmosfera, mnogo je djece i odraslih posjetitelja, postoje sjajni programi medijacije koji pomaæu djeci i mladima u bræem poimanju tehniËkih Ëuda, a ove godine zainteresirani mogu pratiti ciklus predavanja pod nazivom Mikrokemija moÊi - kako se vitamin C rabi u zdravstvenoj politici. Bavarska je joπ u poËetku osamdesetih godina 20.st. slovila za zaostalu ruralnu pokrajinu, na koju je ostatak NjemaËke gledao Ëak i s blagim podsmijehom, ali onda je, zbog vizije nekolicine politiËara i poduzetnika, preskoËila fazu prljave industrijalizacije i postala vodeÊa u informatiËkoj tehnologiji i ekoloπkoj industriji. Koncentracija elektronskih i raËunalnih tvrtki sa sjediπtem u Münchenu navela je neke autore da za München tvrde kako je europska Silicijska dolina, a zbog broja elektronskih i tiskanih medija, te filmskih kuÊa i produkcijskih poduzeÊa smjeπtenih u gradu, München kao da je veÊ preuzeo medijski primat od Hamburga.

U blizini pak SveuËiliπta Ludwiga Maximiliana srediπte je BMW-a (Bayerische Motoren Werke) i tako u kratkom obilasku Ëetvrti Schwabing i Maxvorstadt, veÊ i pogledom na zgrade, prolaznik moæe rekonstruirati duhovnu povijest cijele NjemaËke koja i danas, u vrijeme posvemaπnje krize, omoguÊuje svojim stanovnicima prosperitet i daljnji rast i razvoj!

Izvrsnost koja nastaje marnim prouËavanjem, duh koji je usredotoËen na kvalitetu i samoprijegor svih, odlike su koje krase veÊinu Nijemaca i danas. Nije rijetkost za lijepa vremena u svibnju i lipnju u obliænjemu golemom parku Englischer Garten vidjeti profesore i studente kako nastavu odræavaju krajnje fokusirani na predmet izuËavanja, a ipak uæivaju u lijepom

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vremenu i svjeæem zraku. A upravo tu, u Englischer Gartenu, najveÊemu njemaËkome gradskom parku, u kojem se za lijepa vremena odræava fakultetska nastava, jasno se luËi granica izmeu protestantske NjemaËke i katoliËke Bavarske, koja je i jedina bila kadra proizvesti za Bavarsku tipiËni Gemütlichkeit, teπko prevedivu rijeË koja u sebi sadræava opuπtenost, neformalnost, spremnost da se zastane i priËeka duπu, da se ne forsira. »im nastava zavrπi, naruËuje se pivo proizvedeno u nekoj od lokalnih pivovara, Ëesto uz perec i maslac ili bijele kobasice sa slatkim senfom. VeÊini ljudi München je pojam kad je rijeË o pivu, njegovoj proizvodnji i nesputanoj konzumaciji.

Zakon o ËistoÊi piva doneπen je 1516. godine i rigorozno propisuje dopuπtene sastojke. RazliËiti omjeri i procesi omoguÊuju nastanak razliËitih samosvojnih okusa, od svijetlog (Helles) do vrlo tamnih piva, izmeu su razliËiti pilsovi i Weizenbier (pπeniËno pivo). Vrtovi u kojima se posluæuju pivo (Biergarten) i konzumira donesena ili naruËena hrana mjesta su druæenja cijelih obitelji, izletnika, poslovnih ljudi nakon kraja radnog vremena (Feierabend ili fajrunt), umirovljenika, srediπta su susreta razliËitih svjetova Ëiji pripadnici predano slave æivot uæivajuÊi u pivu, suncu, druπtvu i pokojemu slasnom zalogaju. Ako je loπe vrijeme, poite u Hofbräuhaus, koju je 1589.g.osnovao princ Wilhelm V. Uz pivo u golemim Ëaπama-Ëizmama uæivajte u tipiËnim bavarskim jelima, konobaricama u dirndl-haljinama, konobarima u koænim kratkim hlaËama (Lederhosen) i orkestru puhaÊe glazbe koji, uz bavarske, svira i mnoge ameriËke i talijanske poznate hitove. Narodna noπnja nije rezervirana samo za ugostitelje, nosi se u svim sveËanijim prilikama i danas, izrauje se ruËno i od vrlo kvalitetnih tkanina, pa je vrlo skupa. Zbog tog obiËaja mnogi glavni grad Bavarske nazivaju i gradom laptopa i lederhozni. NajveÊe slavlje piva ipak je Oktoberfest, koji se odræava na Terezijinoj livadi (Theresienwiese), nazvanoj po princezi Theresi von Sachsen-Hildburghausen, koja je upravo na toj livadi slavila svoje vjenËanje za bavarskog prestolonasljednika Ludviga I. daleke 1810. godine. Slavlje se svima svidjelo i odluËeno je da se ponavlja iz godine u godinu sa zavrπetkom prve nedjelje u listopadu. PuËko slavlje sad traje πesnaest punih dana, svake ga godine pohodi oko πest milijuna po-sjetitelja, a lani se popilo 7,100.000 litara piva! Zanimljiv je podatak da 72 posto posjetitelja dolazi iz ostalih dijelova NjemaËke.

München i Bavarska kao da joπ najviπe dræe do svog bavarskog identiteta i vlastite nezavisne povijesti ukinute ujedinjenjem NjemaËke 1871. godine. Do tog doba Bavarskom je vladala dinastija Wittelsbach u kontinuitetu od 750 godina. Ti vladari joπ od poËetaka njeguju ljubav prema svim umjetnostima, veÊinu zbirki u muzejima, kazaliπta i koncertne dvorane zaËeli su upravo predstavnici te dinastije, a München, trgoviπte osnovano u 12.stoljeÊu na putu karavane soli izmeu Salzburga i Augsburga, uËinili su svojom rezidencijom. Residenz, njihova kraljevska palaËa, poËeta je u poËetku 14.stoljeÊa, a s vremenom se πirila i rasla i poprimila danaπnji izgled od viπe zgrada u kojima se mogu razgledati vaæne zbirke pojedinih vladara, od egipatske umjetnosti, zbirke kovanica, antiËkih statua do prekrasnih zlatarskih i draguljarskih remek-djela riznice. Porculan i njegova proizvodnja bile su stvar ugleda u 18.stoljeÊu pa ne Ëudi πto je manufaktura proculana Nymphenburg, otvorena 11. studenoga 1747. g., smjeπtena baπ u dvorac Nymphenburg pod okriljem tadaπnjeg izbornog kneza Maksa III. Tvornica je i danas u vlasniπtvu obitelji WittelsCROATIA AIRLINES

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bach, zapoπljava oko 70 djelatnika, a izloπci se mogu razgledati u istoimenom dvorcu.

Najpoznatiji predstavnik dinastije Wittelsbach vjerojatno je kralj Ludvig II. (1845. - 1886.).

Ljubitelj kazaliπta i opere dao je sagraditi dvorac Neuschwanstein na teπko pristupaËnom alpskom predjelu. Dvorac je postao mnogima poznat jer mu se silueta pojavljuje u svim Disneyland filmovima, a svake godine posjeti ga milijun posjetitelja. Ako ste veÊ stigli do Münchena, isplati se poÊi do dvorca i uæivati u pomno dizajniranim prostorijama, dijelom nadahnutim Wagnerovim operama i ljepotama bavarskih Alpi. Bavarska je njemaËka pokrajina koju pohodi najviπe turista, pa se isplati odvojiti cijeli tjedan za odmor i posjet starih gradova kao πto su Regensburg, Nürnberg i Rothenburg ob der Tauber, jer Bavarska odmara, ali i nadahnjuje, potiËe da se odvaæimo na joπ viπe i joπ bolje.

PraktiËni savjeti Kao i u veÊini gradova, i münchenska pjeπaËka zona koja se proteæe od glavnog kolodvora (Stachusa) do Marienplatza, a nastavlja i do Odeonsplatza, raj je za shoppingholiËare. Na tom potezu nalaze se najveÊe robne kuÊe, mnogo malih butika, ali i zgodnih suvenirnica. U tom dijelu zastupljene su i sve velike modne marke mladih i onih koji se tako osjeÊaju. Luckastiji butici bliæe su sveuËiliπtu, rasuti u Ëetvrti Schwabing.

München je bogat grad i to ne skriva, a u to se moæete uvjeriti u otmjenim i vrlo skupim prodavaonicama svih najskupljih meunarodnih modnih brandova. »ak i ako si ne moæete priuπtiti kupnju u tako skupim trgovinama, uæitak je proÊi ulicama Maximiliansstrasse, Residenzstrasse i Theatinerstrasse te uæivati u patricijskim zdanjima i raskoπno ureenim izlozima.

Osobit gastronomski uæitak pruæaju pak dvije tradicijske kuÊe, Dallmayr i Käfer, veÊ gotovo stoljeÊe posveÊene kultiviranju nepca.

Dallmayr je tvrtka Ëiji se poËeci (1870.) veæu uza πpeceraj, a od 1930.g. u srediπtu u Dienerstrasse, u zgradi velikoj poput prave robne kuÊe, izloæeno je pedesetak vrsta kave, egzotiËno voÊe, vrhunske cigare, a zaæelite li zastati i neπto kuπati, posluæit Êe vas uËinkovita posluga u tradicionalnoj plavo-bijeloj noπnji. Danaπnje carstvo Käfer zapoπljava 700 djelatnika, a osnovano je takoer 1930. kao trgovina kolonijalnom robom. Najbolje od najboljega njihov je moto, nude sjajna vina, egzotiËne namirnice, delicije iz cijelog svijeta, a osobito njeguju njemaËku gastronomsku i enoloπku ponudu. A ne stignete li zbog obaveza do njihovih trgovina u Münchenu, ne brinite se! Krenite ranije na münchenski aerodrom, gdje obje kuÊe imaju doista reprezentativne prodavaonice i kupite raznolike darove za sve vaπe drage.

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oundedness and stalwartness, poeticism and intensity all seem to be flowing out from the paintings of one of the greatest American artists of the 20th century, Cy Twombly. It is not easy to move away from them, and when you leave them and return to your own everyday life, they continue to live in you; they obsess you, agitate you and change your internal experience landscape. These paintings are a spiritual synthesis of classical antiquity and woundedness, but not the forlornness of a modern author. Twombly passed away in May 2011, but for years already his paintings have been achieving 8-digit figures at auctions. However, only now has the broader public learned that the greatest collection of his works, besides in America, can be seen at the Museum Brandhorst in Munich, where it was put on display in 2009.

The married couple Anette and Udo Brandhorst decided to donate their enormous collection of modern art (Picasso, Warhol, Beuys, Polke, Baselitz, Hirst, Kounellis...) to the city of Munich and exhibit it in the museum which hones and shapes the observers’ impression capacities already with its architecture, and which is located near the Pinakothek der Moderne (Gallery of the Modern) in the so-called Kunstareal (art district) in Munich, which also boasts the Alte Pinakothek (Old Pinakothek) (which contains works by Dürer, Rafael, Tintoretto, Rubens, Pieter and Jan Brueghel, Rembrandt...) and the Neue Pinakothek (New Pinakothek) (with works by Monet, Van Gogh, Cezanne, Manet...).

Anette Brandhorst is one of the heiresses of the Henkel dynasty (Persill, Schwarzkopf), and already as a young woman she had begun patronizing and buying works by modern artists.

The foundation of the Brandhorst couple was set up with 120,000,000 euro, and the foundation’s statute provides for yearly allocations of two million euro to purchase new works.

For the sake of comparison, the neighbouring Pinakothek der Moderne allocates only 40,000 euro a year for the same purpose. It is interesting that Anette Brandhorst was also the president of the curatory of the Gerda Henkel Foundation, which every other year awards a prize for the best historiography work in the amount of 100,000 euro. (This fact is not surprising when you consider that the founder of the economic giant, her greatgrandfather, had allocated part of the profits for the pensions of his workers during a time when pension funds did not even exist!)

Art, science and social awareness are the panaches of German spirit and the inspiration for engineers, composers, doctors and many entrepreneurs. It is, therefore, not surprising that the Technical University boasting 13 academic departments, four Nobel Prize

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laureates and 26,000 students (20% are foreigners) is near the Brandhort Museum, that is, near Kunstareal. A little further, an easy ten minute walk, is the administrative building of the Ludwig-Maximilian University with 18 academic departments and 47,000 students, where the Humboldt ideal of combining education and the ultimate dedication to scientific work still lives on!

People from the former socialist country would most often come to study on a DAAD scholarship (German Academic Exchange Service). They would be surprised to learn that the maximum number of hours of lessons was 16, that there were lively discussions during the seminars, and also by the fact that instead of memorizing data and parroting it for their professors they had to do a lot of individual scientific research for their seminar papers which were scored and evaluated as exam tests. Just a five minute walk from the Technical University brings you to the SiemensForum, a place where you can get a user-friendly overview of the logic that lies behind the development of a company whose existence spans over 150 years. The development of electrical engineering and electronics is demonstrated in a way which, along with technical innovations, shows the modalities of their economic exploitation, as well as the changes which the products bring to society and the ways they affect the habits of individuals. Even today, the appreciation of science and the speed of application of scientific achievements in industry are the key success of the German wonder. Thus, for example, the largest museum in Munich, the Deutsches Museum, is housed in a magnificent building on the Isar River. The collection occupies 19 kilometres of hall space and six floors, on which only part of the 100,000 exhibits are set up in more than thirty sections.

The museum follows the achievements in the fields of natural sciences and technology from the Stone Age until today, including everything from mining and industrial machinery, to the first aircraft, to the miracles of atomic physics.

Therefore, the atmosphere in the museum is always lively, there are many younger and older visitors, and there are wonderful educational programs which help the children and young visitors quickly understand the technical miracles. This year those that are interested can follow the program of lectures called The Microchemistry of Power - How Vitamin C is Used in the Healthcare Policy.

Not such a long time ago, at the beginning of the 80s of the 20th century, Bavaria was considered a backward rural province, which the rest of Germany benevolently sneered upon. However, as a result of the vision of a few politicians and entrepreneurs, Bavaria skipped over the period of dirty industrializa-

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tion and it has become the industry leader in information and environmental technology.

The concentration of electronic and computer companies with their headquarters in Munich has caused several authors to declare Munich the European Silicon Valley. In addition, based on the number of electronic and print media, as well as fi lm production houses and businesses located in the city, Munich has almost taken over as the centre of media from Hamburg.

Near the Ludwig-Maximilan University is the headquarters of BMW (Bayerische Motoren Werke), and so in a short tour of the Schwabing and Maxvorstadt districts, just by looking at the buildings, passers-by can reconstruct the spiritual history of all of Germany which even today, in a time of complete crisis, enables its citizens prosperity and continued growth and development! The excellence which is created through diligent study and the spirit which focuses on quality and selfeffacing hard work by all are characteristics which most Germans possess even today.

While passing through the huge park Englischer Garten during the beautiful weather in May and June it is not unusual to see professors and students holding classes outdoors and being extremely focused on the subject of study, while at the same time enjoying the beautiful weather and fresh air. Right here, in Englischer Garten, the biggest German city park, where during nice weather university classes are held, the boundary between Protestant Germany and Catholic Bavaria is clearly seen. The combination of the two is the only one that has been capable of producing the typically Bavarian Gemütlichkeit. The word is almost impossible to translate as it contains the notions of relaxation, informality, willingness to stop and wait for the soul to catch up instead of forcing things.

As soon as classes finish, beers are ordered which were produced in one of the local breweries, usually along with pretzels and butter or white sausages with sweet mustard. To most people, Munich is the name that symbolizes beer, its production and its unfettered consumption. The law on the purity of beer was passed in 1516 and it rigorously prescribed the allowed ingredients. Different proportions and processes enable the creation of various individual tastes, from light (Hellas) to very dark beer, among which are various pilsners and Weizenbier (wheat beer). The gardens (Biergarten) where beer is served and where you can consume brought or ordered food, are places to socialize; entire families can be seen there, along with tourists, business people who pop over at the end of the work day (Feierabend or fajront) and pensioners.

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cious snack or two. If the weather is bad, go over to the Hofbräuhaus, a beer hall which was founded in 1589 by Prince Wilhelm V. Along with beer served in enormous glass beer boots, enjoy typical Bavarian food, waitresses clad in dirndl dresses, waiters in short leather shorts (Lederhosen) and a brass band orchestra, which along with Bavarian music also plays many famous American and Italian hits. The national costumes are not reserved only for the restaurateurs, they are worn at all festive occasions even today. They are handmade from high quality fabrics and are therefore very expensive. As a result of this custom, to many the capital city of Bavaria is known as the City of laptops and lederhosen.

The greatest celebration of beer is Oktoberfest, which is held on Theresienwiese, named after Princess Therese von SachsenHildburghausen, who celebrated her wedding to the Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig I on that meadow back in 1810. Everyone enjoyed the celebration so much that it was decided to repeat it every year, concluding on the first Sunday in October. The popular beer bonanza now lasts for sixteen full days and every year attracts around six million visitors. Last year an amazing 7,100,000 litres of beer were drunk!

It is interesting that 72% of the visitors come from other parts of Germany.

Munich and Bavaria seem to have held most fervently to their Bavarian identity and own independent history which was interrupted by the unification of Germany in 1871. Until that time Bavaria had been continuously ruled by the Wittelsbach dynasty for 750 years.

From the beginning, those rulers nurtured an appreciation toward all arts; most collections in museums, theatres and concert halls were conceived by the representatives of that dynasty, and Munich, a market town established in the 12th century on the salt road between Salzburg and Augsburg, served as their residence. Residenz, their royal palace, started being built at the beginning of the 14th century. With time it expanded and grew to finally assume its present appearance of many buildings in which you can view important collections amassed by individual rulers, from Egyptian art, coin collections, ancient statues, to beautiful gold and jewellery masterpieces from the royal treasury. Porcelain and its production were a matter of prestige in the 18th century, so it is not surprising that the Nymphenburg Porcelain Manufactory, opened 11 November 1747, was housed in the castle in Nymphenburg under the auspices of the then Elector Max III. Today the factory is still owned by the Wittelsbach family, employs about 70 people, and exhibits can be viewed in the castle with the same name.

King Ludwig II (1845 - 1886) was quite probably the most famous representative of the Wittelsbach dynasty. A theatre and opera

lover, he commissioned the building of the Neuschwanstein Castle in a hard-to-reach mountain area. The castle has become well known to many because its silhouette is shown in all Disney films and every year it is visited by a million people. If you have already arrived in Munich, it pays to go to the castle and enjoy the carefully designed rooms, partly inspired by Wagner’s operas and the beauty of the Bavarian Alps. Bavaria is Germany’s most visited province, therefore it pays to take an entire week to rest and visit the old cities such as Regensburg, Nürnberg and Rothenburg ob der Tauber, because Bavaria relaxes and inspires, it encourages you to take even more and even better adventures.

Practical advice As in most cities, the pedestrian zone in Munich, which stretches from the main train station (Stachus) to Marienplatz, and continues on to Odeonsplatz, is heaven for shopaholics.

Here you can find the biggest department stores, many small boutiques, as well as quaint souvenir shops. All the high-street fashion brands which cater for the young and those who feel that way are represented on that stretch. Quirky boutiques are found near the university, scattered around the Schwabing district.

Munich is a rich city and it does nothing to hide that fact. You will find out yourself how true that is as soon as you see the smart and very expensive shops of all the high-end international fashion brands. Even if you cannot afford to shop in such pricey stores, it is a pleasure to go through the streets Maximiliansstrasse, Residenzstrasse and Theatinerstrasse and enjoy the patrician buildings and lavishly decorated shop windows.

Very special gastronomic experiences are provided by the two traditional companies, Dallmayr and Käfer, which for almost a century have been devoted to cultivating the palate. Dallmayr is a company which since its beginning (1870) has been associated with groceries, and since 1930, in the centre of Dienerstrasse in a building the size of a department store, it has displayed around fifty types of coffee, exotic fruit and high quality cigars. If you wish to stop and try something you will be excellently served by the efficient staff dressed in the traditional blue and white national costumes. Today’s Käfer empire employs 700 people, and it was also established in 1930 as a shop with colonial goods.

Their motto is The Best of the Best, they offer excellent wines, exotic foods, delicacies from around the world, and they especially nurture German gastronomy and oenology. If you are not able to get to their shops in Munich, do not worry! Start out a little earlier for the Munich Airport where both companies have truly representative shops where you can buy ■ various gifts for all of your dear ones.

AZZEDINE ALAÏA, YVES SAINT LAURENT, GIVENCHY, BALMAIN, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, STELLA MCCARTNEY, CΈLINE, CHLOΈ, BURBERRY PRORSUM, RICK OWENS, MIU MIU, MARNI, JIL SANDER, VIONNET, ALEXANDER WANG, ANTONIO BERARDI, ACNE JEANS, FALIERO SARTI, MAISON MICHEL, TOM BINNS, ERICKSON BEAMON, NATALIA BRILLI, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN, NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD, GIANVITO ROSSI, BURAK UYAN, CAMILLA SKOVGAARD, TOYWATCH, NOIS, RED LINE, STEIDL, TASCHEN, FLAMMARION, SKIRA Maria Zagreb, Masarykova 8, 01-4811011 Maria Dubrovnik, Sv. Dominika bb, 020-321330 Outlet Dubrovnik, Cvijete Zuzorić 3, 020-323495 www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr CROATIA AIRLINES

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■ PUSTOLOVNI TURIZAM ADVENTURE TOURISM

Bez obzira na to kamo putovali, ma kamo doπli, na svakome Êe vas odrediπtu doËekati rijeËi i poruke dobrodoπlice. Ta topla ljudska rijeË znaËi da ste prihvaÊeni, govori o veselju zbog novog poznanstva ili pak o radosti ponovnog vienja. I moæda je svuda u svijetu, pa tako i u Hrvatskoj, dobrodoπlica srdaËna, iskrena, otvorena, dobronamjerna, ali samo je u Hrvatskoj ona - najveÊa.

No matter where you travel, wherever you arrive, words and messages of welcome will greet you at every destination. That warm word will let you know that you have been accepted; it speaks of the joys that accompany a new friendship and the pleasures of seeing someone again. A welcome may be warm, sincere, open Piše/By Daniel Lacko

and kind all around the world, in

Fotografije/Photos Luka TambaËa

Croatia as well, but only in Croatia it is - the biggest.

rano popodne u poËetku lipnja, uz doËek puhaÊe glazbe, maæoretkinja, gradskih i dræavnih uglednika, mnogih novinara te stotine radoznalih turista uveslao sam kajakom u staru gradsku luku u Dubrovniku. Prije nego πto sam poËeo primati Ëestitke i odgovarati na silna pitanja, posljednji sam put spremio zapis puta u svoj ruËni GPS ureaj. Moja je dvomjeseËna misija tako zavrπila. Svojim sam kretanjem, hodajuÊi, veslajuÊi, vozeÊi bicikl i ostalim iskljuËivo bezmotornim naËinima putovanja, proπao put dug 2500 km, od najzapadnije toËke Hrvatske, Savudrije u Istri, do Dubrovnika. Trag tog puta preko velikog dijela hrvatskog kopna, mora i otoka zapravo formira, tj. ispisuje veliku rijeË

U

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welcome. ToËnije, najveÊu rijeË welcome na svijetu.

Kao predsjednik Zajednice pustolovnog turizma pri Hrvatskoj gospodarskoj komori veÊ se nekoliko godina trudim promicati Hrvatsku kao idealno odrediπte za sve one koji vole prirodu i aktivan odmor. I premda ne poriËem zanesenost svojom zemljom, ovakvo oduπevljenje nije samo subjektivni lokalpatriotski zanos. Joπ je prije nekoliko godina Ëasopis National Geographic hrvatski Jadran ocijenio najpoæeljnijim odrediπtem za kajakarenje po moru, neπto poslije Hrvatsku proglasio outdoor destinacijom godine, a sliËnim se ocjenama u posljednje vrijeme pridruæuju i mnogi drugi globalni turistiËki

i pustolovni vodiËi, magazini i internetske stranice, koji sve ËeπÊe Hrvatsku istiËu kao top-pustolovno odredište.

Projektom Hr vatska-zemlja s najveÊom dobrodoπlicom na svijetu æelio sam ostvariti nekoliko ciljeva. Prvo, htio sam neposrednim iskustvom i osobno, izravno i iskreno pokazati i promicati prirodne ljepote i baπtinu Hrvatske.

Znao sam da Êu kretanjem po zadanom pravcu koji odreuju slova rijeËi Welcome, uz poznate znamenitosti, otkriti, upoznati i doæivjeti manje znana mjesta, podruËja, krajolike i ljude.

Drugo, htio sam pokazati kako je Hrvatska lijepa, raznolika i primjerena za uæivanje u svim oblicima pustolovnoga i aktivnog turizma, od

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pjeπaËenja, planinarenje, preko kajakarenja i biciklizma do zahtjevnijih vjeπtina kao πto su npr. letenje, penjanje i speleologija.

Napokon (zanemarimo li potrebu da se nae dobar izgovor pred obitelji za dvomjeseËno izbivanje iz kuÊe), htio sam na internetu pokrenuti stranicu www.welcome.hr, koja Êe postati srediπnje, kredibilno i iz prve ruke provjereno informativno mjesto za sve one koje zanima pustolovni turizam u Hrvatskoj.

Na najljepπi moguÊi naËin svi su se postavljeni ciljevi ostvarili. PutujuÊi svoj putopis od jedne jedine rijeËi doæivio sam i proæivio svoju zemlju na nov i neposredan naËin.

Uæivao sam u svakome metru, zaveslaju, susretu i krajoliku. Proπao sam svih osam hrvatskih nacionalnih parkova, obiπao tri parka prirode, viπe zaπtiÊenih krajolika, rezervata i geomorfoloπkih spomenika, popeo se na vrhove najviπih hrvatskih planina i otoka, spustio se niz najljepπe hrvatske rijeke. No isto tako divio sam se zaËudnoj ljepoti manje poznatih hrvatskih krajeva: Ëudesno lijepim prostranstvima Like, zaboravljenim i skrivenim bogatstvima Dalmatinske zagore, zapuπtenim rimskim, austrougarskim ili napoleonskim putovima na Peljeπcu, u Zagori, Gorskom kotaru.

Svaki dan dvomjeseËne pustolovine donosio je nove doæivljaje, nove krajeve i nove susrete s divnim ljudima. Deseci tisuÊa ljudi pratili su dnevne izvjeπtaje na web stranici i facebooku i nestrpljivo Ëekali nove galerije slika.

Iako sam samo ja proπao svih 2500 km, vrlo sam rijetko na tom putu bio sam. Uvijek su uz mene ili u blizini bili stalni Ëlanovi tima: koordinator »edo JosipoviÊ, koji se brinuo da se na terenu sve odvija po planu, zatim snimatelj Marko Rukavina i fotograf Luka TambaËa.

Osim njih, a u duhu projekta, svi koji su htjeli bili su dobro doπli pridruæiti nam se u svakom trenutku i proÊi s nama dio puta. Tako su svoj obol najveÊoj dobrodoπlici u veÊoj ili manjoj mjeri dali mnogi poznati pripadnici hrvatske pustolovne scene, kao npr. Darija BostijanËiÊ, sudionica dviju æenskih himalajskih ekspedicija, koja se popela i na Mt. Everest, ili ©ime StipaniËev, prvi hrvatski jedriliËar koji je sudjelovao u prekooceanskoj solo regati MiniTransat, ali i potpuno neznani, pustolovine æeljni rekreativci.

Siguran sam da je projekt Welcome na svoj naËin uspio predstaviti Hrvatsku kao zemlju prekrasne i oËuvane prirode, bogate povijesne i kulturne baπtine i divnih ljudi. I, dakako, kao zemlju s najveÊom dobrodoπlicom na svijetu.

U doslovnom smislu to jamËim osobno. U onome ljudskome, izravnome i mnogo vaænijem smislu, uvjeren sam da Êete se u bezbroj primjera uvjeriti sami.

Kako je ispisana najveÊa rijeË Welcome Najbolje bi se projekt najveÊe Dobrodoπlice mogao opisati kao pisanje nevidljivom tintom.

NoseÊi sa sobom GPS ureaj koji je snimao trag mog kretanja, bio sam kao vrh velike, nevidljive olovke. Iako je svaki metar viπe od 2500 km dugog puta zaista prijeen na terenu, nije ostao nikakav vidljiv trag. Tek je zapis GPS-a dokaz ostvarena puta koji se moæe prikazati i proËitati na zemljopisnim kartama.

NajtoËniji prikaz cijelog puta sada se moæe vidjeti na sluæbenoj stranici projekta www. welcome.hr.

Put je bio podijeljen na etape, a za pojedino slovo trebalo je od pet do osam dana. NajkraÊe je ispalo zadnje slovo E, od Lumbarde na KorËuli do Dubrovnika, dugaËko 290 km.

Najduæe je pak slovo Welcomea L, od Malog Loπinja do Salija na Dugom otoku, za koje je u osam dana trebalo prijeÊi Ëak 532 km. »injenice i brojevi Ukupna duljina puta: 2535 km Trajanje: od 5.travnja do 3. lipnja 2011.

Ukupno trajanje projekta: 60 dana Trajanje samo pisanja: 44 dana Projekt je podræala i ostvaren je pod pokroviteljstvom Hrvatske turistiËke zajednice.

WELCOME JE PRO©AO: Æupanije: Istarska, Primorsko-goranska, LiËko-senjska, Zadarska, ©ibensko-kninska, Splitsko-dalmatinska, DubrovaËkoneretvanska Mjesta na Unescovoj listi svjetske baπtine Eufrazijeva bazilika, PoreË NP PlitviËka jezera Katedrala sv. Jakova, ©ibenik Povijesna jezgra Trogira, Trogir Dioklecijanova palaËa, Split Starogradsko polje, Hvar Stari grad, Dubrovnik Nacionalni parkovi: Brijuni, Risnjak, Sjeverni Velebit, PlitviËka jezera, Kornati, Paklenica, Krka, Mljet Parkovi prirode: UËka, Velebit, Biokovo, TelaπËica Ostala zaπtiÊena podruËja: strogi rezervat Bijele i Samarske stijene, spomenici prirode Modro i Crveno jezero i Vrela Cetine, znaËajni krajobrazi Pazinski ponor, Kamenjak, Lokvarsko jezero, Glavotok, Gacko i Dabarsko polje, KrËiÊ, kanjon i donji tok rijeke Cetine, dolina Blaca, Saplunara Tim »edo JosipoviÊ, koordinator na terenu/field coordinator Marko Rukavina, snimatelj/cameraman Luka TambaËa, fotograf/photographer Daniel Lacko, autor projekta i GPS nosilac/ project author and GPS carrier CROATIA AIRLINES

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arly in the afternoon at the beginning of June, welcomed by a brass band, majorettes, town and state officials, numerous journalists and hundreds of inquisitive tourists, I paddled into the old town harbour of Dubrovnik in my kayak. Before receiving all the congratulations and answering all sorts of questions, for the very last time I saved the log of my trip in my handheld GPS device. By doing do, my two-month mission was over. I had toured 2500 km by walking, paddling, riding a bike and using other solely non-motorized means of travel, from Istrian Savudrija in Croatia’s far west to Dubrovnik.

The trail of this journey across a large portion of Croatia’s land, sea and islands actually forms, that is, spells out in huge letters, the word welcome. Or to be more precise, the biggest welcome word in the world.

As president of the Adventure Tourism Association of the Croatian Chamber of Commerce, for years now I have been working on the promotion of Croatia as an ideal destination for all those who love nature and active vacations. Even though I do not deny my fascination with my country, this kind of ecstasy is not just subjective local-patriotic enthusiasm. As early as a couple of years ago, National Geographic rated the Croatian Adriatic the most desirable destination for sea kayaking. Later on Croatia was rated outdoor destination of the year by the same magazine, a recognition that has lately been confirmed by other global tourist and business guides, magazines and internet pages which more and more frequently rate Croatia as a top destination for adventure.

My wish was to achieve several goals with the Croatia - The World’s Biggest Welcome project. First of all, I wanted to show and promote the natural beauties and heritage of Croatia through a direct experience and in a personal, direct and sincere way. I knew that by travelling the predetermined route set out to form the letters of the world Welcome, I would discover and experience some lesser known places, areas, landscapes and people.

Secondly, I wanted to show how beautiful, diverse and friendly Croatia is for all forms of adventure and active vacations, from walking and hiking to kayaking and bicycling, or more demanding skills such as flying, climbing and spelunking. Finally (if we put aside the need to find a good excuse for my family to explain my two-month absence from home), my idea was to launch the web page www.welcome. hr which is intended to be the central place for firsthand credible information for all those who are interested in adventure tourism in Croatia.

E

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All the goals set were achieved in the most amazing way. By making my travel itinerary based on only one word, I experienced my country in a new and direct way. I enjoyed each meter, each paddle, encounter and landscape. I travelled across all eight Croatian national parks, three nature parks, several protected landscapes, reservations and geomorphologic monuments, climbed up to the tops of the highest Croatian mountains and islands, and navigated down the most beautiful Croatian rivers. In addition, I admired the wondrous beauty of lesser known Croatian areas: the miraculously beautiful open spaces of Lika, the forgotten and hidden wealth of Dalmatian Zagora, the ruinous Roman, Austro-Hungarian and Napoleon paths on Peljeπac, in Zagora and in Gorski Kotar.

Each day of the two-month adventure brought new adventures, new landscapes and new encounters with wonderful people. Tens of thousands of people followed my daily reports on the web page and on Facebook, anxiously waiting new photo galleries.

Although I am the only one to cross all 2500 km, very rarely was I alone on this journey.

First of all, my permanent team members were with me at all times, or at least nearby: »edo JosipoviÊ, the coordinator who made sure that everything on the course was going according to plan, as well as Marko Rukavina, the cameraman, and Luka TambaËa, the photographer. Apart from them, and in the spirit of this project, everyone was welcome to join us at any given moment and cover any part of the journey. Many well-known members of the Croatian adventure scene made contributions to the biggest welcome, such as Darija BostijanËiÊ, a participant in two female expeditions to the Himalayas and who climbed Mt. Everest, and ©ime StipaniËev, the first Croatian sailor who participated in the trans-ocean MiniTransat solo regatta, as well as total strangers, recreationists in search of adventure.

I am sure that the Welcome project has succeeded to represent Croatia, in its own way, as a country of wonderful and preserved nature that is rich in history, cultural heritage and wonderful people. And of course, Croatia was presented as a country with the biggest welcome in the world. I can personally guarantee this in the literal sense of the word. In terms of the human, direct and much more important sense, I am convinced that you will see for yourself.

How was the biggest Welcome written?

The most accurate way to describe the Welcome project would be by writing with

invisible ink. I was like the tip of a giant invisible pen, with my GPS device recording my movements. Even though each meter of my 2500 km long journey was really covered, no visible mark was left on the ground. The GPS recording is the only proof that the journey was accomplished, and that can be illustrated and read on geographical maps.

The most accurate illustration of the entire journey can be seen on the official project web page: www.welcome.hr The journey was divided into stages, and each letter took from five to eight days. The shortest was the letter E, 290 km long, from Lumbarda on KorËula to Dubrovnik. The longest letter of the Welcome was the letter L, from Mali Loπinj to Sali on Dugi Otok, which took eight days and as much as 532 km.

Facts and figures Total length of journey: 2535 km Duration: from April 5 till June 3, 2011 Total project duration: 60 days Duration of the writing part of the project: 44 days The project was supported by and realized under the auspices of the Croatian National Tourist Board.

WELCOME TRAVELLED OVER: Counties: Istria, Primorje - Gorski Kotar, Lika - Senj, Zadar, ©ibenik - Knin, Split Dalmatia, Dubrovnik - Neretva Locations included which are on the UNESCO World Heritage List: Eufrasiana Basilica, PoreË Plitvice Lakes National Park Cathedral of St. James, ©ibenik Historic City Centre of Trogir, Trogir Diocletian’s Palace, Split Stari Grad Plain, Hvar Old Town of Dubrovnik National parks: Brijuni, Risnjak, Northern Velebit, Plitvice Lakes, Paklenica, Krka, Mljet Nature parks: UËka, Velebit, Biokovo, TelaπËica Other protected areas: strict nature reserve Bijele and Samarske stijene (White and Samarske Rocks), monuments of nature Modro and Crveno jezero (Blue and Red Lake) and Vrela Cetine (Cetina Spring), significant landscapes of Pazinski ponor (the Cave of Pazin), Kamenjak Cape, Lokvarsko jezero (Lokvar Lake), Glavotok Point, Gacko i Dabarsko polje (Gacka and Dabar Valleys), KrËiÊ, the canyon and the lower stretches of the Cetina River, Dolina Blaca (Blaca Valley), Saplunara.

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MODA FASHION ■

rojekt Fashion.hr Industrija nastao je radi pomaganja i unapreenja hrvatske tekstilne industrije te potpore hrvatskim modnim dizajnerima. U tom smislu okupljena je skupina hrvatskih tekstilnih proizvoaËa komplementarnih proizvodnih programa koji su na dovoljno visokom stupnju razvoja svojih brendova i kanala distribucije te nekolicina vodeÊih hrvatskih dizajnera. Fashion.hr Industrija postala je njihov zajedniËki iskorak u poveÊanju prodaje, zadræavanju i poveÊanju razine zaposlenosti te osvajanju domaÊega, ali i inozemnih træiπta. Dosad je ostvareno sedam uspjeπnih suradnji izmeu πest hrvatskih tvornica (Arena Pula d.o.o, San Peter d.o.o., Rio Rijeka d.o.o, Marli d.o.o, Bambi d.o.o, Amadeus d.o.o.) te sedam renomiranih hrvatskih dizajnera (Igor Galaπ, Robert Sever, Ivica KlariÊ, Zoran Mrvoπ, Juraj Zigman, Ana-Maria Ricov, Ivan Alduk), a gospodarsko su znaËenje projekta potvrdile i Hrvatska gospodarska komora te Grad Zagreb izravnim ukljuËivanjem u projekt u statusu ravnopravnih partnera.

- Naπ je osnovni cilj razvijanje konkretnih programa Ëija svrha nije samo revitalizacija, nego promiπljeno lansiranje hrvatske modne scene kao uspjeπnog brenda buduÊnosti. U tekstilnoj industriji rade tisuÊe ljudi koje æelimo ujediniti s dizajnerskim imenima koja su osvojila medije svojim radom. Ta logiËna simbioza kljuËan je element u razumijevanju naπih ideja koje rastu iz sezone u sezonu. Izazov je predstaviti tako ambiciozan projekt u teπkim ekonomskim vremenima ali duboko vjerujemo kako progresivnost jamËi uspjeh, i to je ono πto hitno

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Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos Fashion.hr

treba svima nama - izjavio je Vinko FilipiÊ, direktor koncepta.

Nakon uspjeπne premijere u oæujku, kad se na ZagrebaËkom velesajmu na povrπini od 6000 m2 okupilo 57 izlagaËa uz gotovo 10.000 posjetitelja, sajam se u samo jednoj sezoni uspio pozicionirati kao srediπnje mjesto okupljanja modne scene, domaÊe industrije odjeÊe, obuÊe, nakita i koæne galanterije.

Slijedom razvoja, koncept Fashion.hr industrija ove sezone poprima regionalno obiljeæje, stoga Êe na nadolazeÊem jesenskom sajmu, osim stotinjak domaÊih izlagaËa, svoje kolek-cije i modne proizvode imati priliku predstaviti i brojni izlagaËi iz zemalja regije. Osim renomiranih modnih brendova, na sajmu Êe u sklopu platforme LIFT by Perwoll svoje autorske kolekcije predstaviti i najdarovitiji mladi dizajneri iz Hrvatske i regije.

Osim upoznavanja s modnim novitetima, sajam Fashion.hr Industrija predstavlja idealnu platformu za razvoj novih poslovnih suradnji, naglaπavajuÊi vaænost sinergije pri zajedniËkom cilju razvoja regionalne modne industrije.

Istodobno, regionalan predznak i progresivan razvoj sajma pozitivno utjeËu na zanimanje inozemnih kupaca, Ëija prisutnost sudionicima omoguÊuje potencijalni izlazak i na inozemno træiπte.

- Veoma smo sretni πto smo na jednome mjestu uspjeli okupiti sve kljuËne faktore domaÊe modne scene - od poznatih dizajnera, darovitih novih nada pa sve do uspjeπnih tekstilnih tvrtki s dugom tradicijom djelovanja. Naπ sajam mode u prvom redu æeli istaknuti vaænost poslovnoga i poduzetniËkog razvoja hrvatske modne scene,

πto je uostalom primarna nit vodilja cijelog koncepta Fashion.hr industrije. Doπao je trenutak za stvaranje snaænoga hrvatskoga modnog brenda - zakljuËila je Martina PandæiÊ-Skoko, direktorica sajma.

Posjetitelje i goste sajma, uz jedinstvenu modnu ponudu po sniæenim cijenama, tijekom sva tri dana sajma oËekuje niz atraktivnih sadræaja i dogaanja - dnevne modne revije, izloæba modne fotografije, projekcije odabranih filmova te zanimljive radionice u kojima Êe priliku za aktivno sudjelovanje imati i posjetitelji. Svakodnevni program ukljuËuje i interaktivne tematske rasprave te edukativne panel-diskusije, u kojima Êe sudjelovati mnogi relevantni govornici iz Hrvatske i regije - poznati dizajneri, modni urednici i kritiËari, predstavnici industrije, znanosti i træiπta te specijalni gosti iz inozemstva.

■

Jesenski sajam mode Fashion. hr Industrija prvi Êe put okupiti regionalnu modnu industriju na jednome mjestu. Od 30. rujna do 2. listopada 2011. godine na ZagrebaËkom velesajmu odræat Êe se drugi regionalni sajam mode Fashion.hr Industrija za sezonu proljeÊe-ljeto 2012.

For the first time ever, the Fashion.hr Industrija autumn fair will gather fashion industry players from throughout the region in one place. From 30 September to 2 October, the pavilions of the Zagreb Fair will host the second, regionwide edition of the fashion fair Fashion.hr Industrija which will showcase new trends for the 2012 spring-summer season.

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he Fashion.hr Industrija project was created to help and promote the Croatian textile industry and to support Croatian fashion designers. Keeping this idea in mind, a group of Croatian textile producers with highly developed brands and distribution channels teamed up with leading Croatian designers. Fashion.hr Industrija has become a common goal aimed at increasing sales, maintaining and increasing employment levels, and conquering not only the domestic market but foreign markets as well. The seven cooperation projects successfully organized so far have involved six Croatian textile factories (Arena Pula d.o.o, San Peter d.o.o., Rio Rijeka d.o.o, Marli d.o.o, Bambi d.o.o, Amadeus d.o.o.) and seven renowned Croatian designers (Igor Galaπ, Robert Sever, Ivica KlariÊ, Zoran Mrvoπ, Juraj Zigman, Ana-Maria Ricov, Ivan Alduk). The economic significance of the project has been recognized by the Croatian Chamber of Economy and the city of Zagreb.

The latter has decided to join the project as an equal partner.

- Our main objective is to develop concrete platforms aimed not only at reviving but also launching the Croatian fashion scene as a successful future brand. There are thousands of people working in the textile industry. We want to link them with our designers whose

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VodiË za dobar tek

Gourmet guide The Caper Grill - hotel Radisson BLU Resort Split Uæivajte u svjeæim mediteranskim jelima s roπtilja. Delicije su pripremljene od svjeæe prvoklasne ribe, morskih plodova, te odabranog svjeæeg mesa. Prepustite se doæivljaju u kombinaciji zapanjujuÊeg pogleda i jedinstvenog izbora hrvatskih i stranih vina, koja predstavljaju savrπeni dodatak svakom jelu.

Radno vrijeme: Radno vrijeme: 18:00-23:00

The Caper Grill - hotel Radisson BLU Resort Split Enjoy fresh Mediterranean delights hot from the grill. Selected delicacies are prepared using grilled, freshly caught fish and seafood including fresh regional meat cuts. Indulge in a combination of stunning views and a unique selection of fine wines from Croatia and all around the world, offering a perfect accompaniment to any dish.

Opening hours: 18:00 - 23:00 Put Trstenika 19, HR-21000 Split, Croatia, e-mail:info.split@radissonblu.com tel. +385 21 303 030 www.radissonblu.com/resort-split

PREPUSTITE SE GASTRO UÆITKU Krenite na nezaboravno gastro i vinsko putovanje u restoranu Kaptol. PoËastite nepce i uæivajte u nadahnuÊu i kreativnosti naπeg viπestruko nagraenog kulinarskog tima. Nudimo Vam i hrvatske tradicionalne i internacionalne specijalitete. Kako god bilo da bilo, jamËimo iskustvo za pamÊenje.

Doite i uvjerite se sami. Uæivajte u naπoj raskoπnoj buffet veËeri po uistinu posebnoj cijeni od 185 Kn! *ukljuËuje jednu Ëaπu vina ili piva ili bezalkoholnog piÊa, te kavu ili Ëaj*

INDULGE IN A GASTRO EXPERIENCE Embark on an unforgettable gastro and wine journey in Restaurant Kaptol. Entice your palate and savor the inspiration and ingenuity of our award winning culinary team. Whatever your preference - be it traditional Croatian or International cuisine, you can be sure that we will deliver on an experience to remember.

Come see for yourselves and enjoy in our lavish dinner buffet for only €25! *inclusive of a glass of wine or beer or soft drink and coffee or tea* + 385 (0)1 4892 000 | westinzagreb.com | westin.com/zagreb | westin.zagreb@westin.com Zinfandel’s Restaurant - The Regent Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Elegantan prostor suvremenog ozraËja. Kuhinja je dokaz kvalitetne lokalne gastronomske kulture, a jelovnici, koje priprema europski kuhar godine - Jeffrey J. Vella, temelje se na najboljim sastojcima i posebno uzgojenim sortama namirnica iz kontinentalne i mediteranske Hrvatske. Ponuda vina upotpunjena je odabranim hrvatskim i vrhunskim meunarodnim vinima. Prepoznat kao vrhunski restoran u Hrvatskoj, Zinfandel’s je primio brojna priznanja i nagrade za prvoklasnu uslugu i ukusne delicije.

An elegant dining space with a contemporary twist. The fine cuisine is proof of the quality of the local gastronomic culture and the menu, created by European Chef of the Year- Chef Jeffrey J. Vella, features the best ingredients and specialty breeds from continental and Mediterranean Croatia. Offer is complimented by a balanced selection of Croatian and International Wine. Zinfandel’s is widely regarded as Croatia’s no.1 restaurant and has won numerous awards for excellent service and fine delicacies.

MihanoviÊeva 1, 10000 Zagreb, tel. +385 (0)1 45 666 44, e-mail: Zinfandels.Zagreb@RegentHotels.com Restoran ©estine - Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel Zagreb Ako u svakodnevnoj gradskoj vrevi æelite naÊi mirno mjesto za opuπtanje i predah, te razveseliti svoje nepce slasnim zalogajima, novoureeni restoran ©estine hotela Four Points by Sheraton Panorama idealan je izbor. Viπestruko nagraivani πef kuhinje Vladimir Balent kao i naπa bogata vinska karta osigurat Êe vam vrhunski gastronomski doæivljaj. Veliki parking, povoljne cijene te natkrivena ljetna terasa savrπen su odabir za poslovne ruËkove, proslave raznih obljetnica te drugih prigoda. Duga tradicija i pohvale naπih zadovoljnih gostiju dobra su preporuka za vaπ ukusni predah.

If you want to escape from daily bustle of the city, find a quiet place to relax and rest, and delight your taste buds with delicious snacks, completely renovated restaurant ©estine in Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Zagreb Hotel is an ideal choice. Award-winning chef Vladimir Balent as well as our extensive wine list will ensure you a superb culinary experience. Great parking, good prices and a covered summer terrace are the perfect choice for business lunches, celebrations of various anniversaries and other occasions. Long tradition and praise of our satisfied guests are a good recommendation for your delicious break.

Trg Kreπimira ΔosiÊa 9, 10 000 Zagreb, tel. +385 (0)1 3658 447, e-mail: hotel-fourpointspanorama.com 142

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work has already won the acclaim of the media.

Their symbiosis is a logical step forward and the key element for understanding of our ideas which keep expanding each year. Obviously, launching such an ambitious project in times of an economic downturn is quite a challenge but we strongly believe that being progressive is being poised for success, stated Vinko FilipiÊ, the concept director.

Following a successful premiere in March, when 57 producers showcased their products to over 10,000 visitors at a Zagreb Fair exhibition covering 6,000 m2, the project has managed to position itself as the focal point for the fashion scene as well as the local clothing, footwear, jewelry and leather goods industries within its first season.

Following the course of events, the Fashion.hr Industrija concept will gain a regional aspect this year. The upcoming autumn fair will gather not only a hundred or so local exhibitors but also numerous regional players who will showcase their collections and fashion products. Besides well-known fashion brands, the most talented young fashion designers from Croatia and the region will be given an opportunity to present themselves within the framework of the LIFT by Perwoll platform.

Apart from showcasing the most recent fashion trends, the Fashion.hr Industrija fair represents an ideal platform to develop new business co-operations based on an idea of employing synergy in order to reach a common goal which is to develop the regional fashion industry. At the same time, the regional character and the fair’s progressive development have had a positive impact on the interest among international buyers whose presence means that there is a potential for the participants to find a place in foreign markets.

- We are very happy that we were able to attract key players in the domestic fashion scene to gather in one place - from well known designers and promising new talents to successful textile companies with long traditions. Our fashion fair primarily aims to emphasize the importance of developing the business and entrepreneurial facets of the Croatian fashion scene, which is, after all, the guiding principle of the entire Fashion.hr industrija concept. The time has arrived to create a strong Croatian fashion brand, said Martina PandæiÊ-Skoko, the director of the Fair.

Besides a unique offer of fashion items at reduced prices, visitors and guests can look forward to various attractions and events during the three days of the fair: daily fashion shows, fashion photo shows, screenings of selected films as well as an interesting active participation workshop. Daily programs also include interactive thematic discussions and educational panels with participation by many relevant speakers from Croatia and the region - well known designers, fashion critics, representatives of the industry, science and market experts as well as special foreign guests.

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■ POZNATI U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU CELEBRITIES IN OUR AIRCRAFT

traktivna i temperamentna mlada violonËelistica Ana Rucner poznata je u Hrvatskoj i u svijetu po suvremenim i osebujnim izvedbama klasiËne glazbe. Nastupila je na mnogim koncertima uz klavirsku pratnju ili pratnju orkestra u koncertnim i sportskim dvoranama te odræala koncerte za ugledne kulturne, javne i gospodarstvene institucije i tvrtke. U suradnji s Hrvatskom turistiËkom zajednicom i TuristiËkom zajednicom Grada Zagreba proputovala je gotovo cijeli svijet. Ana sada priprema CD s obradama klasiËnih i rock-skladbi, koji planira izdati do kraja godine.

■ Uπli ste u ovu godinu spektakularnim nastupima u Kini. Koji su vaπi glazbeni projekti najviπe obiljeæili ovu godinu?

- U suradnji s Hrvatskom turistiËkom zajednicom ove godine proputovala sam mnoge zemlje kao πto su Japan, Izrael, Turska, ©panjolska, NjemaËka, Amerika... Ondje sam imala priliku odræavati koncerte u sklopu prezentacija Lijepe naπe. Samo jedan moj show na nacionalnoj televiziji u Pekingu pogledalo je viπe od sto pedeset milijuna ljudi. Vrlo sam ponosna i na svoju suradnju s TuristiËkom zajednicom Grada Zagreba, s kojom takoer naveliko putujem po svijetu, a naπa suradnja ove godine kulminirala je uspjehom turistiËko-umjetniËkog videospota MjeseËeva sonata Ludwiga van Beethovena, koji nam je donio tri velike nagrade na najveÊim turistiËkim sajmovima filma: prvu nagradu ITB-a u Berlinu, prvu nagradu u Rigi i Grand Prix u Italiji.

■ U svibnju ove godine putovali ste Croatia Airlinesom u GrËku i u Tursku. Kakva ste iskustva stekli ondje?

- Dosad sam nekoliko puta bila u obje zemlje i oduπevljena sam. Velika mi je Ëast πto su me TuristiËka zajednica Grada Zagreba i Croatia Airlines odabrali da odræim koncerte na njihovim prezentacijama, koje su bile vrlo uspjeπne.

A

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■ »esto odræavate koncerte u razliËitim krajevima svijeta. Gdje Vam je dosad bilo najzanimljivije i kako Vas je publika prihvatila?

- Svaka zemlja ima svojih zanimljivosti, kao i svoje glazbene raznolikosti. Uvijek nastojim da za svaku zemlju u koju putujem kao glazbenica pripremim njihovu tradicionalnu skladbu, πto publika uvijek cijeni i nagradi velikim pljeskom.

Teπko je reÊi gdje mi se najviπe svidjelo, ali svakako æelim izdvojiti Izrael, Koreju i Tursku.

■ Vaπi radni planovi za jesen?

- Nakon radnog ljeta, koje sam provela na seminaru na meunarodnoj ljetnoj πkoli gdje sam radila s profesoricom Silvijom Sondeckiene iz Litve, oËekuju me mnogi koncerti. Jedan od veÊih bit Êe u Kneæevu dvoru u prelijepom Dubrovniku, gdje Êu nastupati sa svojom obitelji, Kvartetom Rucner. Izmeu ostaloga, ove godine nastupam u Salzburgu, Australiji, GrËkoj, kao i mnogim drugim zemljama. Do kraja godine zavrπavam snimanje svog CD-a s obradama ■ klasiËnih i rock-skladbi. he attractive and passionate young cellist, Ana Rucner, is known in Croatia and around the world for her modern and unique performances of classical music.

She has appeared in many concerts accompanied by a piano and in concert and sports halls accompanied by an orchestra, and she has also held concerts for notable clients from the public and corporate world. In cooperation with the Zagreb Tourist Board she has travelled around almost the entire world. Ana is now working on a CD of arrangements of classical and rock compositions which she plans to release by the end of the year.

■ You started this year with spectacular appearances in China. Which of your musical projects have marked this year the most?

- In cooperation with the Croatian Tourist Board, this year I have travelled to many countries, such as Japan, Israel, Turkey, Spain, Germany and America where I held concerts as part of the project to promote our beautiful country.

One of my shows broadcast on national television in Peking was watched by more than one hundred and fifty million people. I am also very proud of my cooperation with the Zagreb Tourist Board, with which I have also travelled a lot around the world. Our collaboration this year culminated with the successes of the art video spot Moonlight Sonata by Ludwig van Beethoven which won us three big awards at the largest tourism fairs for promotional films: first prize at ITB in Berlin, first prize in Riga and the Grand Prix in Italy.

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■ In May of this year you travelled with Croatia Airlines to Greece and Turkey.

What kind of experiences did you have there?

- I have already been in both countries several times and I was delighted with them. It is a great honour that the Zagreb Tourist Board and Croatia Airlines chose me to perform concerts at their presentations, which were very successful.

■ You often hold concerts in different corners of the world. Where was the most interesting for you and how were you received by the public?

- Every country is interesting in its own way, just as their music also differs. In every country I travel to as a musician I try to prepare a traditional composition, which the public always appreciates and rewards with great applause.

It is hard to choose one place that I enjoyed the most, but I would definitely point out Israel, Korea and Turkey.

■ What are your work plans for the autumn?

- After the summer, which I spent working with Professor Silvia Sondeckiene from Lithuania at a seminar at an international summer school, I have many concert appearances lined up. One of the bigger concerts will be at Kneæev Dvor (The Rector’s Palace) in beautiful Dubrovnik, where I will perform with my family, the Rucner Quartet. Amongst other performances, this year I will also perform in Salzburg, Australia, Greece, as well as many other countries. By the end of the year I will finish recording my CD of arrangements of classical and rock compositions. ■

Hrvoje Serdar

Piše/By Renata Cisar

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KALENDAR DOGA–ANJA U HRVATSKOJ RUJAN/SEPTEMBER

Zagreb Koncert Britney Spears/Concert

Rijeka Izloæba Jedra Kvarnera, Nikπa Mendeπ/Exhibition Jedra Kvarnera, Nikπa Mendeπ

(do 31. prosinca/until 31 December) Pomorski i povijesni muzej hrvatskog primorja Rijeka/Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral Rijeka LISTOPAD/OCTOBER Pula Pula Boat Fair, 2. meunarodni sajam nautiËke opreme/Pula Boat Fair, 2nd International Exhibition of Nautical Equipment

(19. - 22. listopada/19 - 22 October) Pula, Karolina

Britney Spears

(1. listopada/1 October)) Arena Zagreb 5. meunarodno natjecanje mladih dirigenata Lovre von MataËiÊa/ 5th International Competition of Young Conductors Lovro von MataËiÊ

(3. - 7. listopada/3 - 7 October) Koncer tna dvorana Vatroslava Lisinskog/Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall Koncert Hladnog piva/Concert Hladno Pivo

(7. listopada/7 October) Arena Zagreb Koncert Jean-Michela Jarrea -

9. hand made fest/9th Handmade Fest

World tour/ Concert Jean Michel

(21. - 23. listopada/21 - 23 October) Dom hrvatskih branitelja

(11. listopada/ 11 October) Arena Zagreb

Split Meunarodna veËer πansone/International Night of Chansons

(1. listopada /1 October)

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Jarre - World Tour

Koncert britanskog dueta Hurts/ Concert of British Duo Hurts

(23. listopada/23 October) BoÊarski dom Zrinjevac

CALENDAR OF EVENTS IN CROATIA STUDENI/NOVEMBER Dubrovnik Izloæba - Oglaπavanje u DubrovaËkim novinama od 1890. do 1941. godine/ Exhibition - Advertising in Dubrovnik’s Newspapers from 1890 - 1941

(1. studenoga - 31. prosinca/1 November - 31 December) Kneæev dvor/Rector’s Palace Pula Koncert Vijey Iyer Solo (SAD) Jazzbina Fall Edition/ Concert Vijey Iyer Solo (USA) - Jazzbina Fall Edition

(9. studenoga/ 9 November) Dom hrvatskih branitelja Split Split gitar festival/ Split Guitar Festival

(1. - 30. studenoga/1 - 30 November) Zagreb Koncert RAMMSTEIN Made In Germany 1995 - 2011 Tour/ Concert RAMMSTEIN Made In Germany 1995 - 2011 Tour

(8. studenoga/8 November) Arena Zagreb Koncert Lennyja Kravitza, Black And White Europe Tour/Concert Lenny Kravitz, Black And White Europe Tour

(17. studenoga/17 November) Arena Zagreb Koncert SADE, The Ultimate Collection Tour/Concert SADE, The Ultimate Collection Tour

(22. studenoga/22 November) Arena Zagreb PROSINAC/DECEMBER Dubrovnik Izloæba Zbirka vaza iz fundusa Arheoloπkog muzeja/ Exhibit Collection of Vases from the Holdings of the Archaeological Museum

(1. - 31. prosinca/1 - 31 December) Kneæev dvor/Rector’s Palace Pula BoæiÊni hand made sajam/ Christmas Handmade Fair

(20. - 24. prosinca/20 - 24 December) Dom hrvatskih branitelja

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SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 150 NOVOSTI/NEWS 155 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST/ LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED 158 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU/ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 161 FLOTA/FLEET 163 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA/A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 165 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB/ZAGREB AIRPORT 166 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI/ WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 168 ADRESE/ADDRESSES CROATIA AIRLINES

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NOVA WEB STRANICA C ro ati a A ir line s ko nti nui ra no ra d i na unapreenju svoje web stranice, a sada vam donosimo potpuno novi dizajn te bolju funkcionalnost. Dizajn zadræava osnovna obiljeæja kompanijskog identiteta, ali razvija se u novom smjeru prateÊi trendove u online industriji.

Osim atraktivnog izgleda, stranica se odlikuje boljom preglednoπÊu, πto smo postigli novom informacijskom strukturom. Dodani su i neki novi sadræaji radi πto boljeg snalaæenja na stranici te jednostavnijeg procesa rezervacije i kupnje zrakoplovnih karata. Dakako, i dalje vas oËekuju brojne ponude promidæbenih cijena te sve novosti zanimljive putnicima. Posjetite nas na www.croatiaairlines.com!

NEW WEB SITE Croatia Airlines continues working on improving its web site and now we bring you a totally new design as well as better functionality.

The design has kept the basic symbols of the company’s identity, but it has developed in a new direction following the trends in the online industry. Besides the attractive page layouts, the web site is characterized by better visibility which we achieved with a new information structure. We have also added a few new contents, and all of this was done with the goal of having better orientation on the web site, as well as simplifying the process of making reservations and purchasing airline tickets. Of course, you can still expect to find numerous offers of promotional prices as well as news that is interesting to our passengers.

Visit us at www.croatiaairlines.com!

NOVO! iPHONE APLIKACIJA Croatia Airlines prati razvoj suvremenih tehnologija i prilagoava svoju uslugu kako bi putnicima planiranje leta i putovanje bilo πto jednostavnije. U skladu s tim, træiπtu smo ponudili aplikaciju koja svim korisnicima ureaja iPhone omoguÊuje pregled reda letenja, provjere statusa leta te daje informacije o poslovnicama, prijevozu od/do zraËnih luka, prtljazi te o svemu ostalome πto putnik treba znati prije puta. Takoer, aplikacija vam omoguÊava slanje e-mail poruke ili poziv naπem Kontakt centru.

NEW! IPHONE APPLICATION Croatia Airlines follows the developments in modern technology and adjusts its services so that it is as simple as possible for passenger to 150

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CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS plan their flights and trips. In accordance with this, we are offering on the market an application which provides all users of the iPhone the possibility to look at the flight schedule and check their flight status, as well as get information about branch offices, transportation to and from the airport, baggage and everything else passengers need to know prior to their trip. Also, the application allows you to send e-mail or call our Contact Centre.

NOVOSTI U ZIMSKOM REDU LETENJA U novome zimskom redu letenja Croatia Airlines Êe izravno povezivati Zagreb i Rim utorkom, Ëetvrtkom i nedjeljom, te preko Splita ponedjeljkom, utorkom, srijedom, Ëetvrtkom i subotom.

Izravne letove iz Dubrovnika u Pariz imat Êemo petkom i nedjeljom.

NEWS ABOUT THE WINTER FLIGHT SCHEDULE In the new winter fl ight schedule, Croatia Airlines will have direct fl ights connecting Zagreb and Rome on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays, as well as via Split on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.

Direct flights from Dubrovnik to Paris will be on Fridays and Sundays.

MILIJUNTI PUTNIK U 2011. GODINI. Croatia Airlines je 20. srpnja na letu iz Münchena u Zagreb prevezao svoga milijuntog putnika u ovoj godini. Milijunti je putnik Croatia Airlinesa u 2011. godini Mario Raos iz Zagreba. Nakon slijetanja zrakoplova u ZraËnu luku Zagreb odræana je prigodna sveËanost na kojoj je SreÊko ©imunoviÊ, glavni direktor Croatia Airlinesa, darovao jubilarnom putniku dvije besplatne povratne zrakoplovne karte poslovnog razreda za jedno od odrediπta tvrtke, po izboru putnika.

Milijunti putnik zabiljeæen je najranije u povijesti tvrtke i Ëetiri dana prije u odnosu na dosadaπnji rekordni datum (24. srpnja 2008. godine).

MILLIONTH PASSENGER IN 2011 On 20 July, Croatia Airlines transported its millionth passenger this year on the flight from Munich to Zagreb. The Croatia Airlines millionth passenger in 2011 is Mario Raos from Zagreb. After landing at Zagreb Airport a celebration was held at which SreÊko ©imunoviÊ,

the director of Croatia Airlines, awarded the jubilee passenger with two free business class return trip airline tickets to a destination of his choice from the company’s list of destinations.

The millionth passenger was marked on the earliest date in the company’s history, which was four days earlier than the previous record date (24 July 2008).

REKORDNA POPUNJENOST U SRPNJU Od poËetka godine do kraja srpnja na letovima Croatia Airlinesa ukupno je zabiljeæeno 1,065.913 putnika, odnosno 18 posto viπe nego u istom razdoblju lani. Ovogodiπnji srpanj rekordan je mjesec u povijesti Croatia Airlinesa po broju prevezenih putnika. U srpnju je zabiljeæen 227.791 putnik, πto je 4500 putnika viπe, odnosno 2 posto viπe u odnosu na dosadaπnji rekordni kolovoz 2008., u kojem je bilo prevezeno 223.258 putnika.

RECORD OCCUPANCY IN JULY From the beginning of the year until the end of July, Croatia Airlines recorded a total of 1,065,913 passengers on its flights, which is 18% more than the same period last year. July of this year was a record month in the history of Croatia Airlines in terms of the number of passengers transported. In July, 227,791 passengers were recorded, which is 4,500 passengers more, that is 2% more in comparison with the previous record in August 2008, in which 223,258 passengers were transported.

Audi Napredak kroz tehniku

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TOMISLAV JA»IMOVIΔ technical inspector / testing of aircraft motors

OUR STAFF AT YOUR SERVICE

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Odræavanje u zrakoplovstvu izazovno je i zanimljivo, a svi se poslovi saæimaju u doslovce jednom trenutku davanja plovidbenosti zrakoplova.

Maintaining an aircraft is challenging and interesting, and the aircraft is approved as airworthy just at the moment when the results of all the procedures come together.

TOMISLAV JA»IMOVIΔ tehniËki inspektor / provjera motora zrakoplova

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rva vrijednost na kojoj se temelji Croatia Airlines jest sigurnost putnika. Toga je svjestan ovlaπteni tehniËki inspektor Tomislav JaËimoviÊ dok pregledava motor zrakoplova Airbus A320, baπ kao lijeËnik pravog pacijenta.

- Odabrao sam ovaj posao zbog savrπenog spoja jednostavnosti i kompleksnosti. Jednostavnost je u tome πto svaki inspektor i svaki tehniËar mora savrπeno i nepristrano odraditi svoj dio posla, a kompleksnost dolazi do izraæaja u trenutku kad se svi ti poslovi saæmu u doslovno jedan trenutak davanja plovidbenosti zrakoplova i jamstva sigurnog leta milijunima putnika do sljedeÊega velikog pregleda. Upravo je zato odræavanje u zrakoplovstvu tako izazovno i zanimljivo - rekao nam je Tomislav.

Godine uËenja, rada i iskustva omoguÊuju mu da specijalnim boroskopskim alatom zapazi i najmanju promjenu unutar motora. Takvim preventivnim naËinom odræavanja spreËavaju se kvarovi prije nego πto se pojave.

Boroskopski alat malena je kamera koja se moæe zavuÊi u unutraπnjost motora te snimiti, 152

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poveÊati i izmjeriti i njegove najsitnije dijelove.

Snimka ostaje pohranjena kako bi se mogla analizirati zajedno s prozvoaËem zrakoplova i zrakoplovnog motora.

Iako je motor CFM56-5 poznat kao najpouzdaniji na svijetu, takvi rigorozni pregledi u toËno odreenim intervalima osiguravaju miran let naπim putnicima, a Croatia Airlinesu sigurnu buduÊnost.

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he most important value, on which Croatia Airlines is based, is passenger safety.

Tomislav JaËimoviÊ, the certified technical inspector, is aware of that fact while he inspects the engine of the Airbus A320 aircraft, just as a doctor of real patients.

- I chose this job because of the perfect combination of simplicity and complexity.

Simplicity in the fact that every inspector and every technician must flawlessly and fairly do his part of the work, and the complexity comes from the intensity of the moment when the results of all these procedures come together as the aircraft is approved as airworthy thereby guaranteeing a safe flight to millions of passengers until the next major inspection. That is why maintaining an aircraft is so challenging and interesting, Tomislav told us.

Years of learning, working and experience have allowed him to notice the slightest changes in the engine using specialized borescope tools. Such preventive maintenance methods prevent failures before they occur.

A borescope is a small camera which can be put inside the engine and record, enlarge and measure its smallest parts. The recording is stored so it can be analyzed together with the manufacturer of the aircraft and the aircraft’s engine.

Even thought the CFM56-5 engine is known as the most reliable in the world, this type of rigorous inspection at exactly determined intervals insures a peaceful flight for our passengers, and the safe future of Croatia Airlines.

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Petrinjska 26, Zagreb, +385 1 48 16 268

Trg bana JelaËiÊa 6,(prolaz Harmica), Zagreb, +385 1 48 11 456

www.palzileri.com

www.laurel.de CROATIA AIRLINES

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The Leading Human Resources Company in Croatia

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OSNOVE MILES & MORE PROGRAMA

INTRODUCING MILES & MORE

Miles & More najveÊi je program nagraivanja putnika u Europi i nudi Ëlanovima razliËite moguÊnosti prikupljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih partnera u programu.

Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija partnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kartica Miles & More.

Miles & More is the greatest frequent flyer programme in Europe offering its members numerous possibilities for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many attractive privileges.

Members collect miles by using the services of many partners in the programme.

Miles are credited for flights of all Star Alliance members and other airline partners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car partners or staying in participating hotels.

Zatraæite svoju Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu!

5 kuna = 1milja - za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko ove kartice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja n Dvostruke milje - osvajate za plaÊanje turistiËkih aranæmana i zrakoplovnih karata u Diners Club Travelu n Prikupljajte nagradne milje svugdje - jednostavno plaÊajte svojom Diners Club karticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu. n Osvojite joπ viπe milja - koriπtenje ostalih pogodnosti Diners Cluba poput besplatnih online usluga, e-plaÊanja ili trajnih naloga donosi vam dodatne milje. n 2 kartice - 1 raËun Miles & More - koristite se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom karticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More.

Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card! n 5 HRK = 1mile - for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1mile. n Earn double miles - for paying package tours and flight tickets at Diners Club Travel n Collect award miles ever ywhere - simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC offices in Croatia or abroad n Collect extra award miles - by using other Diners Club benefits, such as free online services, internet banking and e-paying, standing orders etc. n 2 credit cards - 1 Miles & More membership account - use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account.

Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu!

Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club objavili su, osim companion kreditnih karica (poslovnih i privatnih), i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu.

Potroπnja od 13 kuna na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles and More milju dok se za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu preko kartica u paru dobiva 1 nagradna Miles and More milja.

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card!

Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club have issued, besides a companion credit card (both business and private), a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles and More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles and More award mile will be credited to your account.

Zatraæite svoju kreditnu karticu Croatia Airlines American Express!

4 kune = 1 milja - za svake 4 kune potroπene preko Premium kartice biljeæi se 1 nagradna milja, odnosno za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko Standard kartice n 2500 milja dobrodoπlice - za nove osnovne Premium korisnike i 1250 milja dobodoπlice za nove dodatne Premium korisnike n 1500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard korisnike i 750 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Standard korisnike n Dvostruke nagradne milje - za potroπnju u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i Jumbo Travel Services PBZ Carda n UËlanjenje u Priority Pass bez naknade te pristup u viπe od 450 VIP salona u zraËnim lukama

Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express credit card! n 4 HRK = 1mile - for every 4 HRK spent via Premium card, you collect 1mile, and for every 5 HRK spent via Standard card you collect 1 mile. n 2.500 welcome miles - for new basic Premium card users and 1.250 welcome miles for new additional Premium card users. n 1.500 welcome miles - for new basic Standard card users and 750 welcome miles for new additional Standard card users. n Earn double award miles - using the card to pay for travels at Croatia Airlines sales offices and Jumbo Travel Services of PBZ Card. n Free Priority Pass enrollment- it enables you to access into more than 450 VIP airport lounges

Razredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti Koriπtenjem usluga partnera u programu prikupljate nagradne milje koje zamjenjujete za nagrade i statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status i pogodnosti πto ih ostvarujete.

Statusne milje prikupljaju se redovitim letovima sljedeÊih zrakoplovnih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Lufthansa Regional i Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS i svi zrakoplovni partneri iz mreæe Star Alliance, te Cirrus Airlines, Air Dolomiti i Luxair. Svaka tako ostvarena milja biljeæi se i kao statusna i kao nagradna milja.

Milje HON Circle statusne su milje koje se prikupljaju letovima sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Lufthansa Regional i Lufthansa Private Jet), Luxair i Swiss International Airlines.

Tiers and benefits By using the Miles & More partners’ services members collect award miles, which are traded in for awards; and status miles, which determine a member’s membership status and privileges.

Status miles can be accrued on scheduled flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, all Star Alliance partners, Cirrus Airlines, Air Dolomiti and Luxair. Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status and an award mile.

HON Circle miles are status miles that you collect on flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), Luxair and Swiss International Airlines.

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Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendarskoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller, a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini oËekuje vas status Senator. »lanovi koji prikupe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u razdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalendarske godine, stjeËu status HON Circle.

With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year members earn the Frequent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, earn the HON Circle status.

Pogodnosti statusa Frequent Traveller - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja na zaista prijeeni ili standardni iznos za letove sljedeÊih kompanija: Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Lufthansa Regional i Lufthansa Private Jet), Adria Airways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Croatia Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, SWISS, US Airways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair i Continental - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - uporaba Lufthansa Business Class Loungea prilikom letova s nekom od Ëlanica Star Alliancea - prednost na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog razreda - 40 kg prtljage bez naplate ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji

Frequent Traveller privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent on the actual flown miles or standard mileage amounts on flights operated by Luf thansa (including Luf thansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), Adria Air ways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Croatia Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, SWISS, US Air ways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair and Continental.

- Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Use of the Lufthansa Business Class Lounges while flying with a Star Alliance Member - Waiting list priority - Check-in at the Lufthansa Business Class counter - Free baggage allowance of 40 kg depending on the destination and the airline

Pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja na zaista prijeeni ili standardni iznos za letove sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Lufthansa Regional i Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Airways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair i Continental.

- neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - predujam od 50.000 milja - uporaba Lufthansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold Lounge partnera u Star Allianceu - viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog razreda - osigurano mjesto na letu za rezervacije do 48 sati odnosno do 72 sata unaprijed, ovisno o razredu putovanja - 50 posto manje milja za suputnika na nagradnom letu, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dodatnih 20 kg ili dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dva elektronska vauËera za premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), te joπ dva za svako zadræavanje statusa

Senator privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent on the actual flown miles or standard mileage amounts on flights operated

by Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Luf thansa (including Luf thansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Air ways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair and Continental.

- Accrued award miles have no expiry date - 50,000 miles in advance - Access to the Lufthansa Senator Lounge as well as to the Star Gold Lounges of Star Alliance partners - High waiting list priority - First Class check-in - Booking guarantee up to 48 or 72 hours in advance depending on the booking class - A 50 per cent mileage discount for an accompanying person on flight awards depending on the airline - Additional 20 kg baggage allowance or an additional bag depending on the destination and the airline - 2 electronic upgrade vouchers and two more for every status retention HON Circle privileges - All existing Senator privileges - Executive bonus of 25 per cent - 100,000 miles in advance - Senator status for your spouse or partner depending on the airline - 6 electronic Upgrade Vouchers and 6 more for every status retention - Additional benefits offered by Miles & More partners, rounding off the travel experience

Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle - sve pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus od 25 posto - predujam od 100.000 milja - Status Senator za supruænika ili partnera, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - πest elektronskih vauËera za premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), te joπ šest prigodom zadræavanja statusa - dodatne pogodnosti koje nude partneri programa osiguravajuÊi jedinstveno iskustvo putovanja Troπite milje Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge nagrade: nagradne karte, premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), razliËite nagrade kojima se moæete koristiti pri putovanju (hotelski smjeπtaj, unajmljivanje vozila).

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Spend miles You can exchange collected award miles for awards prepared for you: award tickets, upgrades, various travel awards.

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U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU UPORABA TELEFONSKIH NAPRAVA Sadaπnje odredbe zabranjuju uporabu odreenih prenosivih elektronskih naprava tijekom komercijalnih letova, zbog moguÊnosti ometanja navigacijske i komunikacijske opreme.

Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa zabranjena je uporaba ovih elektronskih naprava: prijenosnih telefona, komercijalnih dvovalnih prijenosnika (npr. walkie talkie); amaterskih prijenosnih ureaja; CB prijenosnih ureaja: prijenosnih ureaja koji emitiraju RF energiju na odreenoj frekvenciji, perifernih ureaja za raËunala ili igre. Ovi se ureaji mogu rabiti kad zrakoplov nije na pisti, uzletu, poËetnom penjanju, prilazu ili fazama slijetanja: osobna raËunala (periferni ureaji kao πto su πtampaËi, vanjski disc driveovi itd. nisu dopuπteni); osobna raËunala s igrama, VHF skenerski prijamnici; CD diskovi; kasetofoni, videorekorderi; kalkulatori. SljedeÊi ureaji mogu se rabiti sve vrijeme: sluπni aparati, ugraeni medicinski aparati, elektronski satovi, elektronski stimulatori æivaca.

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI

PO©TOVANI PUTNICI!

RU»NA PRTLJAGA

Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima.

Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

Sva Ëekirana prtljaga mora imati putnikovo ime.

Besplatne oznake za prtljagu mogu se dobiti u svim prodajnim uredima Croatia Airlinesa.

Oznaku za prtljagu stavite i unutar prtljage. Sve vrijedne stvari i predmete nosite sa sobom u zrakoplov. Osobnu ruËnu prtljagu odloæite iznad svojeg sjedala ili ispod njega, tako da teæi komadi idu ispod, a lakπi iznad, a da istodobno ne smeta drugim putnicima i posadi zrakoplova.

Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije.

UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama.

Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi.

RED SJEDENJA Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo.

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UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima.

PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja.

Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta.

Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva.

USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U zrakoplovu raspolaæemo razliËitim vrstama alkoholnih i bezalkoholnih piÊa, kojima Êe vas stjuardese posluæiti zajedno s jelom. Prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed, moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka (oznaka: SPML), kao npr. vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed. Ako ste naruËili poseban obrok, molimo vas da o tome na vrijeme izvijestite osoblje.

Putnicima nije dopušteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Osoblje zrakoplova neÊe posluæiti alkoholna piÊa alkoholiziranim putnicima. Prije slijetanja osoblje Êe ukloniti sve πalice i Ëaπe. Puπenje nije dopuπteno tijekom cijelog leta, a u toaletima postoje i detektori za dim, koji se aktiviraju u sluËaju puπenja.

MEDICINSKA POMOΔ U zrakoplovu imamo priruËnu ljekarnu sa svim potrebnim lijekovima za prvu pomoÊ (s lijekovima protiv bolova, flasterima i ostalim osnovnim medicinskim sredstvima).

Za medicinsku pomoÊ obratite se kabinskom osoblju.

ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT SKY - SHOP U avionu moæete kupiti bescarinsku robu. Što se tiËe cijena, obratite se domaÊici zrakoplova.

Roba se moæe platiti u sljedeÊim konvertibilnim valutama: euro, ameriËki dolar, funta, πvicarski franak i u nacionalnoj valuti kunama, te sljedeÊim karticama: Diners, Visa, American Express i EuroMaster Card. Zbog teæine aviona ili trenutaËnog nedostatka prostora ponuda moæe biti ograniËena, pa vas molimo da to uzmete u obzir.

■

DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our first and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests.

With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services.

Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inflight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

luggage must be stowed under the passenger seat or in the overhead compartment - heavy pieces below and lighter above the seat - in a way not to disturb other passengers or the cabin crew.

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole flight.

Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the flight.

Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing.

BAGGAGE

RESTRICTED ITEMS

All checked-in baggage must have the passenger’s name on the outside. Free identification cards are available at all OU ticket offices. We suggest that you place an identification tag inside your luggage as well. Carry all valuable and important items with you on the plane. Hand

The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage.

Such items are: explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons, firearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers.

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking flights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.

SEAT ASSIGNMENT

Both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are available on board and are served with your meal. If you wish to order a special kind of meal such as vegeterian, dietary etc., you can do so when buying your ticket but must be 24 hours in advance. Kosher meals should be ordered 48 hours in advance. Make sure that your flight attendant is aware that you have ordered a special meal.

Passengers are prohibited from consuming their own alcoholic beverages on board. The cabin crew are instructed to discontinue serving passengers who appear to be intoxicated.

All cups and glasses will be removed from the passenger areas prior to take-off and landing.

Smoking is not permitted on any of Croatia Airlines’ flights. A fresh air vent and smoke detectors are located in toilletes and will be activated if smoking.

USE OF ELECTRONIC DEVICES Current regulations prohibit the use of certain types of portable electronic devices (PFDs) on board commercial flights, due to potential interference with navigational and communications equipment. On Croatia Airlines’ flights it is prohibited to use the following electronic devices: cellular telephones, commercial twoway transmitters (e. g., walkie-talkies); amateur radio transmitters; Citizen Band (CB) transmitters; 49-MHz transmitters, devices designed to radiate RF energy on a specific frequency; peripheral devices for computers or computer games.The following devices may be used when the aircraft is not in the taxiing, take-off, initial climb, approach or landing phases: personal computers (cable-connected peripheral devices such as printers, external disc drives, etc. are not permitted); personal computer games, VHS scanner receivers; compact disc players; cassette tape players; video recorders; calculators. The following may be operated at all times: hearing aids, implanted medical devices, electronic watches, electronic nerve stimulators.

Please read the instructions below, important for your safety and comfort during the flight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your flight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

SERVICE ON BOARD

MEDICAL AID Painkillers, Band Aid and other essential medical items are kept on the aircraft. Ask your flight attendant should you need any assistance.

SKY SHOP Duty free goods can be paid for in major currencies such as: Euro, US Dollar, British Pounds, Swiss Franks and national currency Kuna, whilst Diners, Visa, American Express and Euro-Master Card are also welcome. ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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FLOTA

FLEET Zrakoplovi A320-200, A319-100, i Dash8 - Q400 Ëine naπu flotu.

Our fleet consists of A320-200, A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

A320-200

A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m /ft )

122,40 / 1318

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

3

4

6

2

2

(1 unajmljen / 1 leased)

A320-200

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnog i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednog do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

A319-100

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnog i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednog do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Dash 8-Q400

Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje.

Raspored poslovnog i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednog do drugog leta.

One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer.

Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

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CROATIA AIRLINES

ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA

A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

St. Petersburg ABERDEEN EDINBURG BELFAST DUBLIN

MANCHESTER

Chisinau LYON

VENICE

Turin

Genoa MADRID

RIJEKA

OSIJEK BELGRADE Bucharest

BRA» Bari

Palermo Catania

ATENA

TEL AVIV

Partneri / Partners:

bmi

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ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

ZAGREB AIRPORT

5

4

4

Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21

International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

2 Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7

1

P

Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

D

Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike

D

C

A

Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima

P C

Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A” Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”

N

B S B

Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte

3

S

TAKSI BUS

CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

1

Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

2

V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije

3

Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

4

Restaurant Faust VranËiÊ

5

Panoramic View Panoramski pogled

A

Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila

Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica

B

Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica

Coffee Bar Kavana

Flight Information Informacije o letovima

C

Customs Control Carinska kontrola

Bar

Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije

D

Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina

Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks)

N

Newstand Novinarnica

Baggage Prtljaga

P

Passport Control Kontrola putovnica

S

Shops Prodavaonice

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.

5.00 5.30 6.00 6.30

U DUBROVNIKU autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 60 minuta prije leta.

Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova.

In DUBROVNIK airport buses leave 90 minutes before the flight, and in ZADAR 60 minutes before the flight.

The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing.

Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) - Zagreb (zraËna luka) - Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) Rijeka - Polazak u 15.30 sati.

Cijena karte u jednom smjeru: 145 kuna.

Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) - Zagreb Airport - Departure at 5.00. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport - Rijeka - Departure at 15.30. Price of a one-way ticket: 145 Kunas.

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb (do 29. listopada 2011.): Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb (until 29 October 2011): 7.00 7.30 8.00 8.30

9.00 10.00 11.00 11.30

12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30

14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30

16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30

18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30

20.00

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 8.00 8.30

9.00 9.30 10.30

11.30 12.00 12.30

13.00 13.30 14.00

14.30 15.00 15.30

16.00 16.30 17.00

17.30 18.00 18.30

19.00 19.30 20.00

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, 098 472-539, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn.

The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas.

Autobusi iz ZAGREBA polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova.

Bus departures in ZAGREB are an hour and a half prior for domestic flights and two hours prior for international flights.

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ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI? Dragi putnici!

Brigitte Tuerk

Pred nama je jesen, godiπnje doba puno novih boja, okusa i mirisa.

Svojom nas ljepotom privlaËi da je istraæujemo i uæivamo u njoj, a mi vas pozivamo da fotoaparatom zabiljeæite osobite trenutke, mjesta i dogaaje. Unaprijed se veselimo novim fotografijama koje Êete podijeliti s nama.

Autoricu fotografije Andrinu PeriÊ odabrali smo kao najbolju u ovom broju te je nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa.

Promidæbenim poklon-paketom nagradit Êemo Blanku BabiÊ i Niehuusa Uwea.

Pozivamo vas da nam nastavite slati svoje fotografije jer vas i u iduÊem broju oËekuju vrijedne nagrade.

Volim putovati jer to znaËi gledati svijet naopako; izgubiti se u nebu i beskraju svemira.

I love to travel because it’s seeing the world upside down to lose yourself in the sky the infinite universe.

Dear Passengers!

Autumn is in front of us, the season filled with new colours, tastes and fragrances. Its beauty draws us to explore and enjoy it, and we invite you to record those special moments, places and events with your cameras. We are looking forward to the new photographs that you will share with us.

The author of the photograph which we have chosen as the best in this issue is Andrina PeriÊ. We awarded her with two return tickets on Croatia Airlines.

Blanka BabiÊ and Niehuus Uwe will receive our promotional gift packages.

We invite you to continue sending your photographs because valuable awards are awaiting you in our next issue.

Jelena ©efer

Na svakom putovanju otkrijem mnogo novih i zanimljivih ljudi, okolnosti i obiËaja, a isto tako upoznajem i sasvim nove dijelove sebe.

On every trip I discover so many new and interesting people, their circumstances and customs, and I also learn about completely new parts of myself.

Æedna zemlja kiπu i suze upija, nosi moja gola stopala, nebo mi pruæa ruke i slobodu, a negdje na tome meridijanu æivot teËe, æivot putuje...

The thirsty earth absorbs rain and tears, carries my bare feet; the SKY offers me a hand and freedom, and somewhere on that meridian life flows, life travels...

Vlado DadiÊ

Ivana »ukman

Volim putovati svijetom da bih shvatio ljepote naπe domovine Hrvatske.

I love to travel the world so I can appreciate the beauty of our homeland Croatia.

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CROATIA AIRLINES

Blanka BabiÊ

WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL?

Svuda volim poÊi, ali i na vrijeme kuÊi doÊi.

I love to set off for everywhere, but return home on time.

Andrina PeriÊ - Prva nagrada/First prize

Boris Sontacchi

Kao πto bi Tom Gotovac rekao: Treba æivjeti samouvjereno... gledajuÊi.

As Tom Gotovac would say, It is necessary to live confidently...watching.

Hana KoliÊ

Volim se opustiti i odmaknuti od svakodnevice.

I love to relax and get away from the every day.

Putujem kako bih pronaπla mir.

I travel to find peace.

Niehuus Uwe

Ivana ΔepuliÊ

PutujuÊi, postajem dio jedinstvenih i neponovljivih trenutaka u æivotu nekih dalekih ljudi.

By travelling I become a part of unique and singular moments in the life of some people who are far away.

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ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 616-01-53 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/ugd@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 062-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 18:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept.

Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team Tel. +385 (0) 91 77 312 Brojevi telefonskog check in-a / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam WTC, Tower B, Level 4, Schiphol Boulevard 207, 1118 BH Luchthaven Schiphol Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Fax (+31-20) 316-42-81 amsto@croatiaairlines.hr BeË / Wien Airport Office Objekt / Building 645, Room 115-116, A-1300 Wien Flughafen Tel. (+43-1) 7007 359-62, 361-63 Fax (+43-1) 7007 359-63, 361-64 vieap@croatiaairlines.hr Bruxelles Brussels Airport Box 31, 1930 Zaventem Airport office: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5133 Airport counter: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik ZraËna luka, Airport Dubrovnik 20 117 »ilipi, Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, 60 313 Frankfurt, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London 2 The Lanchesters, 162-164 Fulham Palace Road, London, W6 9ER, Tel. (+44-20) 8563-00-22, 0844 3710 310 (UK only) Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615

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ADDRESSES Airport Heathrow, Room 531, Terminal 1, Zone K Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-46-83 Fax (+44-20) 8754-73-77 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr München Flughafen Franz Josef-Strauss, Terminal 2, Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Büro B.4.1322, 85 356 München, Tel. (+49-89) 97-592-730/731 Fax (+49-89) 97-592-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr Paris Roissypôle, Le Dôme 1, 3th floor Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France 95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-4000 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-5511 parto@croatiaairlines.hr Pula ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-52) 218-909 (+385-52) 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyto@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5, 51 000 Rijeka, Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma ZraËna luka, Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci Torre Uffici 2, Room 518 00054 Fiumicino Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo ZraËna luka Sarajevo, Airport Khurta Schorka 36, 71 210 Sarajevo, Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skoplje Ul. Dame Gruev 3, 1000 Skoplje, Tel. (+389-2) 3115-858, 3296-967 Fax (+389-2) 3114-203 ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpto@croatiaairlines.hr Split Obala hrv. nar. preporoda 9, 21 000 Split, Tel. (+385-21) 362-997, 362-055 (komercijala) Fax (+385-21) 362-567 sputo@croatiaairlines.hr ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadto@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb Zrinjevac 17, 10 000 Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 48-19-633 Fax (+385-1) 48-19-632 ZraËna luka Zagreb, Zagreb Airport, 10 150 Zagreb, Pleso Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-585 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Zürich Limmatquai 138, 8001 Zürich, Tel. (+41-44) 261-08-40 Fax (+41-44) 261-08-83 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr

Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe Crna Gora / OKI AIR MONTENEGRO d.o.o.

Ivana VujoševiÊa 46, 81 000 Podgorica Montenegro Tel. (+382-20) 201-201 Tel./Fax (+382-20) 241-154 »eπka CK Blue Sky Travel Na Perštýne 1, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. (+420-2) 2222-2235 Fax (+420-2) 2222-0237 GrËka / Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str. 105 57 Athens, Greece Tel. (+30-210) 32-17-679, 32-17-750 Fax (+30-210) 32-49-152 Kosovo Airtour Head Office: St. Luan Haradinaj #27 10031 Prishtina, Kosovo Tel. (+381-38) 233-833 Fax (+381-38) 245-845 Airport Office: Prishtina International Airport Tel. (+381-38) 594-111 Fax (+381-38) 594-222 Portugal / Global Portugal Representacoes (GRT) Rua Castilho, N˚ 5 − 1˚ andar, Sala 18 1250-066 Lisboa, Portugal Tel. (+351-21) 351-2982 Fax (+351-21) 351-2988 SlovaËka / CK Blue Sky Travel 1. poschodie, Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel. (+421) 5262 2375 Španjolska / Global Representacion Turistica (GRT) c/Valencia, 266, 4/1a 08007 Barcelona Tel. (+34-934) 875-775 Fax (+34-934) 880-121 Turska / ZENITH Services Head Office: Ordu Caddesi, No. 206/1, Laleli 34134 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 513-2667 Fax (+90-212) 512-4234 Airport Office: Istanbul Ataturk Airport International Terminal Departure Floor Yesilkoy 34149 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 465-50-23, 465-40-92 Fax (+90-212) 465-40-92 Bliski istok / Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda St., Migdalor blgd. 12th Floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. (+972-3) 516-7181, 516-7140 Fax (+972-3) 516-7174 SAD / USA Networld Inc. / Croatia America 300 Lanidex Plaza, Parsippany NJ 07054, Tel. (+1-973) 884-3401 Fax (+1-973) 428-3929 Toll free 888-462-7628 Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. (+61-3) 9699-9355 Fax (+61-3) 9699-9388 Novi Zeland / New Zealand Croatia Times Limited Ltd. NZ PO Box 104-056; Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Road, Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. (+64-9) 837-9897 Fax (+64-9) 837-9898 Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo 105-0001 Japan Tel. (+81-3) 3593-6740 Fax (+81-3) 3593-6534