Inflight croatia ljeto summer 2018

Ljeto _ Summer 2018

Putni Ä?asopis _ Inflight Magazine

VaĹĄ vlastiti primjerak _ Your personal copy

Iconic Hotel in the Heart of Zagreb Experience tradition and elegance of the hotel located in the centre of Zagreb. Impressive venues, quality service and the highest accommodation standards stand at your disposal.

Visit Zagreb, a new star on Europe’s tourist map, and discover this vibrant capital with us.

Book your stay at: reservations@sheratonzagreb.com or dial +385 1 455 3535 Š2016 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Sheraton and its logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

Š. Lugarov

Poštovani putnici!

Dear passengers!

Dobro došli u naš zrakoplov! Uistinu me raduje što letite s nama prema svojem ljetnom odredištu, ususret svojim najmilijima ili, možda, prema nekome mjestu gdje još niste bili i čije ćete ljepote tek otkriti. Koji god bio razlog dolaska u našu zemlju − turistički ili poslovni − želim da vam boravak u Hrvatskoj bude lijep i uspješan, a letite li prema nekoj od naših inozemnih destinacija, vjerujem da ćete se i ondje dobro provesti i uživati.

Ugodnom boravku u našem zrakoplovu zacijelo će pridonijeti i sadržaj našega putnog časopisa. U ovome broju predstavljamo zanimljive umjetnike i sportaše. Proputovat ćemo Norveškom i Kambodžom. Vodimo vas u Korčulu, poznatu po jedinstvenom plesu moreški i festivalu barokne glazbe. Pozivamo vas i u glavni grad Zagreb, koji ljeti obiluje kulturnim sadržajima − od koncerata na trgovima i u parkovima do impresivnih izložbi.

Veseli me što smo nedavno počeli letjeti u još jedno novo odredište − Mostar. Upoznajemo vas i sa specifičnostima toga grada koji je oduvijek zračio posebnom ljepotom.

Zbog vas, dragi putnici, i dalje širimo mrežu letova, a dodatan nam razlog za zadovoljstvo pružaju podaci o pozitivnim trendovima poslovanja. U svibnju ove godine zabilježen je rekordan broj putnika za taj mjesec u povijesti tvrtke. Od siječnja do svibnja 2018. ukupno je prevezeno više od 719.200 putnika, što je 6 posto više u odnosu na isto razdoblje lani.

Ti podaci potvrđuju da nam sve više putnika daruje svoje povjerenje. Od srca vam na tome zahvaljujem i želim ugodan let te obilje lijepih trenutaka u vašim odredištima.

Welcome aboard! I’m truly happy that you’re flying with us to your summer destination, to meet up with your loved ones or perhaps to a place that you’ve never been to and whose charms you’re yet to discover. Regardless of the reason for your coming to Croatia − pleasure or business − I hope that your stay in our country will be beautiful and fruitful, and if you’re flying to one of our international destinations, I hope that, there too, you’ll have a great time and will enjoy yourself.

The contents of our inflight magazine will surely contribute to a pleasant flight aboard our aircraft. In this issue, we’re presenting interesting artists and athletes. We’ll travel across Norway and Cambodia. We’re taking you to Korčula, famous for its one-of-akind Moreška Sword Dance and a Baroque music festival. We’re also inviting you to the capital city of Zagreb abounding in cultural events during summer − from outdoor concerts on squares and in parks to impressive exhibitions.

I’m happy that recently we introduced flights to yet another new destination − Mostar. You’ll also get to know the specificities of this town that has always radiated a special beauty. Because of you, dear passengers, we’re continuing to expand our network of flights, and data on positive business trends give us an additional reason for being satisfied. In May this year, a record-breaking number of passengers for the month of May was recorded in the history of the company. From January to May 2018, over 719,200 passengers were transported, which is a 6 percent increase compared to the same period of last year.

This confirms that more and more passengers have placed their trust in our company. I thank you from the heart, and wish you a pleasant flight and plenty of wonderful moments at your destinations.

Jasmin Bajić Predsjednik Uprave / President & CEO

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SADRŽAJ CONTENTS

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Razgovor Aljoša Jurinić, miljenik publike, kritike i medija Mladi pijanist kojega resi šarm umjetnika kozmopolita uživa svoju strast prema glazbi dijeliti s drugima.

Interview Aljoša Jurinić loved by audiences, critics and the media This young pianist and charming cosmopolitan artist enjoys sharing his passion for music with others.

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Otoci Korčula, GRAD MOREŠKE U Korčuli gotovo da nema obitelji čiji barem jedan član nije sudjelovao u izvedbama moreške.

Islands Korčula, the TOWN OF the Moreška Sword Dance In Korčula, almost every household has at least one member who has partaken in performing the Moreška Sword Dance.

Ljeto/Summer 2018 www.croatiaairlines.com

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak This is your personal copy 2 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

56 Inovacije Električna vožnja sjeverom Naš suradnik električnim je biciklom prešao više od 3000 kilometara kroz nestvarno lijepu prirodu od juga do sjevera Norveške.

Innovations An electric ride across the north Our associate crossed over 3,000 kilometres on an electric bike, journeying through the surreal beauty of Norway, from south to north.

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Gastro Istra, opisana maslinovim uljem Zbog zemljopisnog položaja Istre, jednoga od najsjevernijih područja gdje se uzgajaju masline, istarsko djevičansko maslinovo ulje tako je aromatično i zdravo.

Gastro Istria, portrayed in olive oil Istria’s geographic position, one of the northernmost olive growing regions, makes Istrian extra virgin olive oils so aromatic and healthy.

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Our destinations The pure beauty of Mostar This is a town that has been reconciling its differences unremittingly: in the rivers cooling it off, scorching cobblestones, church bells, the stone lace of mosques, street shops and cafes...

D. Fabijanić - Korčula

Naša odredišta Čista ljepota Mostara Grad je to koji neprestano miri svoje različitosti: rijeka koje ga hlade, vrućih oblutaka kaldrme, crkvenih zvonika, kamene čipke džamija, uličnih dućana i kavana...

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66

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E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

Meridijani Kambodža, zemlja drevnih hramova i urbanog iznenađenja U šarenom društvu stranaca koji posjećuju Kambodžu svoje mjesto pronalazi i mnoštvo pridošlica koji dolaze u tu zemlju s impresivnim glavnim gradom.

URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Jasmin Bajić

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Meridians Cambodia, a land of ancient temples and urban surprises In the colourful society of non-natives visiting Cambodia, many expats have found a place to live in a country with an impressive capital.

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana Ćulumović Šoštarić, Davor Janušić, Anamarija Jurinjak, Zlata Prpić

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

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Prijelom/Layout

Moda Oblici za vječnost Tko bi uopće mogao tražiti ljepotu u pleksiglasu, materijalu koji nema dostojanstvo kamena ili drveta? Višestruko nagrađivana umjetnica Diana Sokolić ju je ondje pronašla.

Nenad VujoπeviÊ Direktor prodaje i marketinga/ Director of Sales and Marketing Boris Kolka

Lektor/Proofreader

Fashion Shapes for eternity Who could possibly look for beauty in acrylic glass, a material that doesn’t possess the dignity of stone or wood? It is in it that the multi-award winning artist, Diana Sokolić, has found beauty.

Nevena Erak Camaj Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Ana Janković Čikos

Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines

116 Podržali smo Oni mogu sve Naši sjajni paraolimpijci hrabri su ljudi koji vlastitim primjerom najbolje pokazuju da se od svojega sna nikad ne odustaje.

Lending our support They can do it all Croatia’s brilliant paralympic athletes are brave individuals whose not ever giving up on their dreams sets a shining example.

Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-02 Priprema/Prepress Zrinski d.d., »akovec Tisak/Press Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

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CHECKPOINT Bags by Kristina Kristina Fazinić svoju novu kolekciju ručno izrađenih torbi s motivima tisućljetne baštine grada i otoka Korčule predstavlja razglednicama koje šalje s toga otoka. Za izradu unikatnih torbi Kristina koristi kožu vrhunske kvalitete.

Kristina Fazinić is presenting her latest collection of handmade bags with motifs of the millennia-old heritage of the town and the Island of Korčula with postcards sent from the island. To create her unique bags, Kristina uses top quality leather. www.bagsbykristina.com

Overlap Overlap je kolekcija rasvjetnih tijela novoga hrvatskog brenda Spacetime. Osobitost kolekcije je sjenilo lampe izrađeno od inovativnoga kompozitnog materijala.

Svjetiljka dolazi u ovjesnoj, podnoj i stolnoj varijanti.

Overlap is a collection of lamps by Spacetime, a new Croatian brand. The collection’s distinctive feature is a lampshade made of an innovative composite material. The lamp comes in three versions: a pendant, floor and desk lamp version. www.spacetime.company

Stolići Quatrefoil Quatrefoil tables Dizajn stolića nadahnut je organskim oblikom iz prirode, djetelinom s četiri lista, a naziv je dobio po oblikovno-dekorativnom elementu dubrovačke arhitektonske baštine − quatrefoilu ili četverolistu. Jedan je stolić niži i širi, a drugi viši i uži, a namijenjeni su uglavnom za prostor dnevnog boravka.

D. Lapić

The design of the tables was inspired by an organic form found in nature, the four-leaf clover, and was named after the decorative element found in Dubrovnik’s architectural heritage − quatrefoil. One table is smaller and wider, and the other is taller and narrower. Both are living room furnishings. www.a1-format.hr, www.adakezic.com

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Pipi Želite li saznati što se pije u Dalmaciji, kušajte Pipi - slavni gazirani sok s okusom naranče.

If you would like to know what the locals in Dalmatia drink, try Pipi ∑ the famous orange-flavoured fizzy soft drink. www.facebook.com/pipi.com.hr

Walligami Nadahnut origamijem, tradicionalnom japanskom vještinom savijanja papira, nastao je inovativan hrvatski proizvod walligami, složiva zidna posuda za biljke. Walligami je sjajan poklon za ljubitelje dobroga dizajna, ali i sobnoga bilja.

Inspired by origami, the traditional Japanese art of paper folding, an innovative Croatian product was created − walligami, a foldable wall planter. Walligami is a great gift for lovers of good design and of indoor plants. walligami.com

Korčulanska zlatna Nerica Korčula’s golden Nerica Korčulanska obiteljska vinarija Nerica dobila je veliko priznanje za svoje bijelo vino iz autohtone sorte pošip, čak 95/100 bodova i zlatnu medalju Decantera. U ponudi vinoteke Vivat fina vina u centru Zagreba, Martićeva 12.

The family owned winery Nerica from the Island of Korčula has won accolades for its white wine from the indigenous pošip variety of grape, as many as 95/100 points and the Decanter Gold Medal. It is available at the Vivat Fina Vina wine shop in the city centre of Zagreb at No. 12 Martićeva Street. www.vivat-finavina.hr

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RAZGOVOR INTERVIEW

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Zagrebački pijanist Aljoša Jurinić miljenik je publike, kritike i medija, i to ne samo zato što su njegove izvedbe vrhunske i zanosne. Svojom pojavom, smirenošću, otvorenošću i skromnošću kojom govori o sebi zrači toplinom i šarmom umjetnika kozmopolita koji uživa u mogućnosti da strast prema glazbi podijeli s drugima.

The Zagreb-born pianist Aljoša Jurinić is loved by audiences, critics and the media, and this not only because he delivers superb and ravishing performances. His appearance, calmness, openness and the modesty with which he talks about himself radiate the warmth and charm of a cosmopolitan artist who takes pleasure in the chance to share his passion for music with others.

Piše/By _ Mirjana Brabec Fotografije/Photos _ Vjekoslav Skledar

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elika priznanja struke, od pobjede na uglednom pijanističkom natjecanju Robert Schumann u Zwickauu 2012. i ulaska u finale 17.

Međunarodnog natjecanja Fryderyk Chopin u Varšavi 2015. do naslova laureata natjecanja kraljice Elizabete u Bruxellesu 2016. i nagrade Vladimir Nazor, čiji je najmlađi dobitnik, uz brojne druge domaće i strane nagrade katapultirala su Aljošu Jurinića (29) među vodeća svjetska pijanistička imena nove generacije, kojima su vrata najprestižnijih koncertnih dvorana diljem svijeta širom otvorena.  Koliko su Vam veliki uspjesi na najvažnijim svjetskim pijanističkim natjecanjima promijenili život? Koliko su Vam utjecali na karijeru? − Jako puno, osobito poslije ulaska u finale Chopinova natjecanja u Varšavi, koje je za mlade pijaniste poput Olimpijskih igara. Od tada moja karijera ide uzlaznom putanjom: često nastupam, objavio sam CD, drugi je u pripremi, mnogo putujem, živim u raznim gradovima...  Možete li živjeti od koncerata? − Da, u Zagrebu i Europi ležernije, no u New Yorku, gdje sam posljednjih godinu dana, nešto skromnije, ali meni je bitno da imam osiguranu egzistenciju i da si mogu priuštiti stvari koje unapređuju kvalitetu života, da mogu pratiti kulturna događanja, ići na koncerte, u kino, kazalište, na izložbe… Materijalne me stvari ne zanimaju.  Čime se trenutačno bavite u New Yorku? − Supruga, muzikoterapeutkinja, dobila je fantastičnu profesionalnu priliku da bude znanstvena novakinja u poznatoj njujorškoj bolnici Mount Sinai, koja ima jedan od najboljih odjela muzikoterapije na svijetu. Tako je New York ove godine i moja baza, iz koje putujem na koncerte diljem svijeta i u Weimar, gdje na muzičkoj akademiji (Hochschule für Musik Franz Liszt) kod profesora Grigoryja Gruzmana završavam pijanistički program najvišeg stupnja poslijediplomske koncertne izobrazbe (Konzertexamen). Bit će to kraj mojeg formalnog obrazovanja, no u umjetnosti uvijek treba imati mentora koji će te usmjeravati na pravi put.  Tko su bili Vaši mentori prije prof.

Gruzmana? − Moja profesorica Jasna Reba u osnovnoj i srednjoj glazbenoj školi Pavla Markovca, profesor Ruben Dalibaltayan na

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Muzičkoj akademiji, i glasovita pijanistica Elisso Virsaladze na usavršavanju u Italiji, no moram priznati da je moj svakodnevni mentor moja supruga, koja je također završila Muzičku akademiju u Zagrebu i koristi se klavirom u poslu.  Koje od svojih brojnih nastupa diljem svijeta smatrate najvažnijima? − U Hrvatskoj su to svakako koncerti u ciklusu Lisinski subotom, lanjski recital i ovogodišnji koncert sa Simfonijskim orkestrom Berlinskoga radija pod ravnanjem Ivana Repušića, recitali na Dubrovačkim ljetnim igrama, nastupi u Belgiji, u njihovoj najvećoj dvorani Beaux Arts u Bruxellesu, u Sali Verdi u Milanu, recital u Carnegie Hallu, a posebno su mi u sjećanju ostali nastupi u Chopinovoj rodnoj kući u Želazovi Woli i samo nekoliko tjedana nakon toga u crkvi sv. Križa u Varšavi, u kojoj se čuva Chopinovo srce.  Na čemu ste počeli svirati? Koji klavir imate kod kuće, a koji biste željeli? − Počeo sam na pijaninu s osam godina, kao i većina djece. Roditelji kupe ono što je najisplativije jer ne znaju hoće li njihovo dijete prestati svirati možda već nakon mjesec dana. Kad sam navršio petnaest, kupili smo polukoncertni klavir Kawai, koji i danas imam, no kad živim u drugim gradovima, unajmljujem klavir. Sada mi je u New Yorku, u stanu koji mi je iznajmila kolegica pijanistica, na raspolaganju njezin jako dobar Bösendorfer. Ne imati kod kuće najbolji klavir ima i određenih prednosti: moj Kawai je, primjerice, vrlo funkcionalan ali tvrd, pa kad sjedneš za bolji klavir, prsti samo lete. Nije presudno imati najbolje uvjete, nemaju ih ni sve koncertne dvorane. Janica i Ivica Kostelić skijali su u svakakvim uvjetima i upravo ih je to osnažilo i pripremilo da se snađu bez obzira na okolnosti. U perspektivi, volio bih imati Steinway ili Fazioli, koji je tradicionalno vrhunskom Steinwayju posljednjih godina velika konkurencija.

Većina glazbenika može svoj instrument nositi sa sobom, no pijanist to doista ne može…  Što je bilo odlučujuće da se posvetite glazbi? − Kad sam nakon završene osnovne glazbene škole s petnaest godina upisao prvi srednje glazbene i Školu primijenjene umjetnosti, a usporedno i Muzičku akademiju − tu privilegiju dobilo je nas četvero mladih nakon jednog natjecanja − na proljeće je uslijedila pauza. Rekao sam

roditeljima da želim biti sportski novinar, a oni su, kao i uvijek, super reagirali. Bratu i meni uvijek su davali slobodu da odlučujemo o tome što želimo, i sutradan me na stolu dočekala knjiga o novinarstvu.

No moja je ljubav prema novinarstvu bila kratkog vijeka, jer tek kad sam prestao svirati, shvatio sam koliko mi to nedostaje i koliko to volim.  Je li to bila svojevrsna mladenačka kriza? − Moglo bi se tako reći. Nisam bio od onih koje susrećem na natjecanjima, koji su odmalena puno vježbali. Oni svoju krizu prođu kasnije. Ja sam krizu prošao na početku, no imao sam vrlo lijepo i bogato djetinjstvo, što je, vjerujem, prednost.  Tada ste nastavili s glazbenim školovanjem i počeli više vježbati? − Da, od tada sam počeo vježbati tri-četiri sata na dan, vratio sam se profesorici Rebi i rekao da bih svirao Mozartovu Fantaziju u d-molu i Chopinovu Prvu baladu, koje sam silno volio i čeznuo svirati iako nisu bile primjerene mojoj dobi i znanju. Ona me, kao i obično, podržala, premda to nije bio malen iskorak od uobičajenoga didaktičkog školskog programa. Bile su to prve dvije kompozicije koje sam svirao isključivo zbog toga što ih volim, što je za mene bio velik poticaj. Dalje je sve išlo prirodnim tijekom. Usporedno s četvrtim razredom srednje glazbene škole i Škole primijenjene umjetnosti ponovo sam upisao Akademiju, sada u klasi profesora Rubena Dalibaltayana.  Prije kojeg ste nastupa imali najveću tremu? Imate li uopće tremu? − Nastupi na natjecanju u Varšavi sigurno su bili najstresniji. Bio sam potpuno imobiliziran, u posebnom raspoloženju, što se manifestiralo znojenjem prstiju. Za pijaniste je problem kada imaju hladne ruke ili kada se prsti znoje. Do Varšave su mi se prsti znojili na svim većim nastupima, no nakon Varšave to je prestalo i u tom sam smislu prebolio tu dječju bolest.

Danas imam tremu prije svih nastupa na kojima sviram nešto novo, no ako sviram nešto što sam svirao mnogo puta, nemam tremu, makar nastupao pred mnogo ljudi ili uživo na televiziji. Stoga, ako sviram nešto novo, uvijek nastojim najprije nastupati pred manje ljudi.  Biste li se usudili održati koncert a da ne isprobate klavir? − Da, naravno, to se nekoliko puta i

dogodilo, premda to nisam želio. Upoznavanje klavira je kao upoznavanje nove osobe. Ljudi su velikim dijelom jednaki, ali onaj dio u kojemu se razlikuju jako je bitan. Mehanika je jednaka, no razlika je ipak velika, kao i užitak koji ti instrument može pružiti, i nikad ne znaš što će ti proći, što će ti uzvratiti. Nama pijanistima uvijek je stresno na kakvu ćemo klaviru svirati, no istodobno je, barem meni, to novo iskustvo izazov − sviraš istu skladbu, a svaki put imaš osjećaj kao da sviraš nešto novo.  Može li pijanist sebi dopustiti da mjesec dana ne svira? − Može, u tome se mogu usporediti sa sportašem: nogometaš se može ozlijediti i ne trenirati mjesec dana, a onda početi iznova i nakon tri dana igrati utakmicu.

Osjećaj se vraća vrlo brzo.  Jeste li ikad toliko dugo pauzirali? − Ne baš toliko dugo, no kad bih radio pauze od tjedan ili deset dana, prvi dan bih se osjećao kao da nisam svirao deset godina, drugi dan bi već bilo bolje, a nakon tri dana osjećao bih se kao da nikad nisam ni prestao. Ako ne vježbaš, forma brzo padne, ali se brzo i vrati. No ako ne vježbaš samo dva dana, ne možeš normalno svirati koncert. Uz stanku od jednog dana možda možeš. Većina pijanista, pa i ja, uči skladbe napamet, što je jako intelektualno zahtjevan posao, kao za glumca uloga. Sve memoriramo jer tada možemo razmišljati o glazbi a ne o notama. Pijanistički je posao i tehnički vrlo zahtjevan; mnogo toga je na granici mogućega, no tek umjetnička izvedba razlikuje svirača od glazbenika.  Je li Vam se dogodilo da kompoziciju koju često svirate odjednom doživite drugačije, da promijenite pristup? − To mi se redovito događa. Na gotovo svakom nastupu vidim da barem jednu notu mogu pozicionirati u nekoj drugačijoj, vlastitoj glazbenoj strukturi, a ponekad, ne tako često kod kuće nego pred publikom − a poznato je da publika daje golem impuls − ili zahvaljujući dirigentu, koji često inicira neku svoju ideju, to zajedništvo katapultira interpretaciju koja se ne može ponoviti.

Na koncertima mi je najzanimljivije svirati bis jer je raspoloženje tada posebno opušteno: već si se dokazao, ili nisi, no bis je svakako šlag na torti. Ista kompozicija koju sam svirao tijekom koncerta

na bisu dobije potpuno novu dimenziju upravo zahvaljujući opuštenosti i bezbrižnosti. Mislim da bezbrižnost i opuštenost umjetnost uzdižu u nebesa.  Volite Chopina, često svirate i Beethovena, Bacha, Liszta. Koji su Vam kompozitori danas u fokusu? − Jako volim impresionizam i trenutno me zaokuplja Ravel, kao i Schubert, koji balansira klasičnu strukturu i romantičnu spontanost, u čemu se jako dobro osjećam. No volim sve, od Bacha do skladbi koje su skladane jučer. Sve ima svoje čari.  Nedavno sam pročitala intervju s jednim pijanistom koji se požalio kako ima problema jer mu susjedi ne dopuštaju da svira poslije 21 sat. Imate li i Vi sličnih problema? − To je uvijek ogroman problem jer je klavir jako glasan instrument, posebno basovi i duboki tonovi. Ne možeš znati kako će susjedi reagirati dok ne počneš svirati, a moraš unajmiti stan, dopremiti

kako bi ono što radiš, u mojem slučaju sviranje, imalo širi kontekst...  Spomenuli ste kuhanje. Znate kuhati? − Da, nastojim se zdravo hraniti.  Koje Vas druge umjetnosti najviše zanimaju? − Cilj mi je godišnje pogledati barem sto filmova. Svaki dan pogledam barem jednu epizodu neke serije, svaki tjedan nastojim otići na neki koncert i u kazalište ili pogledati neku stand up komediju, koje su u New Yorku jako popularne i ima genijalnih. Jednom do dva puta tjedno pogledam neku izložbu… Gdje god doputujem na koncert, pogledam sve što me zanima − to je možda najljepši dio mojeg posla, uz glazbu koja uzdiže duh.  Koja je najveća vrijednost koju Vam je donio uspjeh? − Mislim da je najviše što čovjek može postići kada se bavi izvedbenom umjetnošću to što život postavi na svoje mjesto. Profesionalno sviranje klavira jako se

Ako se pijanistu dogodi razdoblje u kojem ne može vježbati, u tome se može usporediti sa sportašem. Nogometaš se može ozlijediti i ne trenirati mjesec dana, a onda početi iznova i nakon tri dana igrati utakmicu. Osjećaj se brzo vraća.

A pianist not being able to practise for a period of time can be compared to an athlete. A footballer can hurt himself and not train for a month, then start over again and play a match in three days. The feeling comes back to you very quickly. klavir, što je uvijek teško, fizički zahtjevno i skupo, i jako je stresno razmišljati hoće li ti netko za tjedan dana reći da mu tvoje sviranje smeta… Dosad sam imao sreću, a nadam se da će me pratiti i na budućim putovanjima jer bih želio živjeti u što više gradova na svijetu. Kao umjetniku važno mi je imati slobodu, da mogu svirati − ok, ne baš kad hoću − ali da se ne moram pridržavati rigoroznoga kućnog reda.  Kakav je Vaš dnevni ritam? Jeste li dnevni ili noćni tip? − Prije sam se dugo budio, jutro je počinjalo nekako polako, no zadnjih nekoliko godina ujutro ustanem, pojedem doručak i počnem vježbati. Taj mi ritam sada savršeno odgovara. Istrenirao sam se da ujutro, dok sam mentalno i fizički svjež, nekoliko sati sviram, a drugi dio dana koristim za druge stvari koje me vesele: čitanje, kulturne događaje, treninge, zabavu, druženje, kuhanje…

Mislim da je široko obrazovanje važno

odražava i na drugim aktivnostima. Ono zahtijeva mentalnu, fizičku i intelektualnu usredotočenost, sposobnost javnog nastupa. Učiš se nositi sa stresom, a meni je sve to važnije od materijalnoga. Glazba je vrlo kompleksna i mnogi glazbenici koje znam, a koji su promijenili profesiju, plivaju kao riba u vodi u svemu drugome što rade zbog navika koje su stekli baveći se glazbom od malih nogu. Glazba zahtijeva golemu koncentraciju. Kad si za klavirom, moraš biti usredotočen, što je danas, kad sve teži distrakciji, teško postići. Istodobno, sviranje je slično meditaciji: kad vježbam, mislil i um mi lete.  Kakvi su Vam planovi, koji su koncerti već dogovoreni? − Potkraj lipnja krećem na turneju sa solističkim recitalima po Kini, sredinom srpnja sviram u New Yorku, a zatim se vraćam u Europu i na našu obalu, gdje ću održati niz koncerata tijekom ljeta. U  pripremi je i novi CD.

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Aljoši Juriniću širom su otvorena vrata najprestižnijih koncertnih dvorana diljem svijeta.

The doors of the most prestigious concert halls around the world are wide open to Aljoša Jurinić.

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he great accolades he has received by the profession − from coming first in the prestigious Robert Schumann International Competition for Pianists and Singers in Zwickau in 2012 and entering the finals of the 17th International Frederic Chopin Piano Competition in Warsaw in 2015, to winning the Queen Elisabeth International Music Competition in Brussels in 2016 and the Vladimir Nazor Award as the youngest winner ever − as well as the numerous other both national and international awards have catapulted Aljoša Jurinić (29) to musical prominence. He has become one of the leading, world-renowned pianists of the new generation, for whom the doors of the most prestigious concert halls around the world are wide open.  How much have your great successes at the most important international pianist competitions changed your life? How much impact have they had on your career? − A lot, particularly once I entered the finals of the Chopin competition in Warsaw, which is like the Olympics for young pianists. Since then, my career has taken off: I give performances often, I’ve released an album and am preparing another, I travel a lot, I’ve lived in different cities...  Can you live off concert performances? − Yes, more easily so in Zagreb and Europe, but in New York, where I’ve been living for a year, a bit more modestly. What’s important to me is making a decent living and being able to afford things that improve the quality of life, being able to attend cultural events, go to concerts, the movies, and see theatre shows and exhibitions... I’m not interested in material things.  What are you currently involved in in New York? − My wife, who is a music therapist, has been given the fantastic opportunity to become a research fellow at the famous Mount Sinai Hospital in New York, which has one of the best music therapy departments in the world.

And so, this year, I’m based in New York, from where I travel to hold concerts all over the world and to Weimar, where I’m taking the highest possible performance degree, a postgraduate concert degree at the Franz Liszt University of Music with Professor Grigory Gruzman. That’ll be the end of my formal education, but in art, you need to always have a mentor to guide you in the right direction.  Who were your mentors prior to prof.

Gruzman?

− Professor Jasna Reba at elementary and secondary level at the Pavao Markovac Music School, Professor Ruben Dalibaltayan at the Academy of Music in Zagreb, and the famous pianist Elisso Virsaladze during a talent music master course in Italy.

But, I must admit that my everyday mentor is my wife, who also finished the Academy of Music in Zagreb and uses the piano for work purposes.  Which of your many performances around the world do you consider to be the most important ones? − In Croatia, these are definitely the concerts I give at the Saturday Night at Lisinski series, last and this year’s concerts with the Berlin Radio Symphony Orchestra conducted by Ivan Repušić, my Dubrovnik Summer Festival recitals, my performances in Belgium, at their greatest Centre for Fine Arts in Brussels, at La Verdi in Milan, my Carnegie Hall recitals, but I have particularly fond memories of my performances at Chopin’s birth house in Żelazowa Wola, and then only a few weeks later at the Church of the Holy Cross in Warsaw where Chopin’s heart is kept.  Which piano did you first start playing?

Which piano do you have at home, and which would you like to have? − As most children, when I was eight, I first played a spinet piano. Parents normally buy what’s most reasonable because they have no way of knowing whether their child will stop playing after as little as a month. When I turned fifteen, they bought me a Kawai semi-concert grand piano, which I still have, but whenever I live in other cities, I actually hire one. In the New York flat I’ve been living in, rented to me by a pianist colleague of mine, I play her very good Bösendorfer. Not having the best piano there is at home has its advantages: my Kawai is, for example, very functional but stiff, and so when you sit at a better piano, your fingers just start flying. Having the best conditions isn’t crucial, not even all the concert halls have them.

Janica and Ivica Kostelić have skied in all kinds of conditions, and it was exactly this that empowered them and got them ready for anything regardless of the conditions.

Sometime in the future, I’d like to have a Steinway or a Fazioli, which has in recent years been a serious competitor to traditionally superb Steinways. Most musicians can carry their instruments around with them, and this is something that pianists can’t really do...

 What made you decide to dedicate yourself to music? − When, after having finished primary school level music education, at the age of fifteen, I enrolled in secondary school level music education and in the School of Applied Arts and Design, and, in parallel, in the Academy of Music − which was a privilege given to us four youngsters after a competition − there came a break in the spring. I told my parents that I wanted to be a sports journalist, and they, as always, reacted supportively. They’ve always given both my brother and I the freedom to decide what we want, and the following day there was a book about journalism waiting for me on the table. But my love of journalism was short-lived, because it was only when I stopped playing that I realised just how much I miss and love it.  Was it an adolescence crisis of sorts? − You could say so. I wasn’t one of those I’d meet at competitions, those who’ve been practising much since their early childhood years; they go through their

re-enrolled in the Academy, but this time in the class of Professor Ruben Dalibaltayan.  Prior to which performance did you suffer the worst bout of stage fright? Do you suffer from stage fright at all? − The Warsaw competition performances were absolutely the most stressful ones. I was completely immobilised, in a specific state of mind, which manifested itself through my fingers sweating. For pianists, cold hands or sweaty fingers are a problem. Until the Warsaw competition, my fingers would sweat during all my major performances, but after Warsaw this stopped, and, in a sense, I was cured of this childhood illness, so to speak.

Today, I suffer from stage fright before playing something new, but if I’m playing something I’ve played many times, I don’t have stage fright, even though I might be performing before a crowd of people or live on television. And so, whilst preparing to play something new, I always try to first play before a small audience.  Would you dare to hold a concert with-

Mislim da je najviše što čovjek može postići kada se bavi izvedbenom umjetnošću to da život postavi na svoje mjesto. Profesionalno sviranje klavira jako se održava i na drugim aktivnostima.

I believe that the most that man can achieve if he’s a performing artist is to put his life in order. Playing the piano professionally reflects a lot in other activities. crisis later on in life. I had my crisis at the beginning, but my childhood was great and rich, which is, I believe, an advantage.  So was it then that you continued your music education and started practising more? − Yes, it was then that I started practising for three-four hours a day, I went back to Professor Reba and told her that I wanted to play Mozart’s Fantasia in D minor and Chopin’s Ballade No. 1, both of which I liked tremendously and wanted to play even though they weren’t suitable for my age and knowledge. She supported my choice, as usual, although this was no small step away from the standard didactic school programme. These were the first two compositions I played exclusively because I loved them, which was great encouragement for me. After this, things started running their natural course: in parallel with the fourth grade of secondary school level music education and the School of Applied Arts and Design, I

out first trying out the piano? − Yes, of course. This has happened several times, although it wasn’t what I had wanted. Getting to know a piano is like getting to know a new person. People are, in large part, the same, but the part in which they differ is very important. Similarly, piano mechanisms are the same, but their differences are still great, as well as the pleasure that an instrument can give you, and you never know what it will tolerate and how it will respond. For us pianists, the kind of piano we’re playing is always stressful, but at the same time, at least for me, each new experience is a challenge − you play the same piece, and yet every time you feel like you’re playing something new.  Can pianists allow themselves not to play for a month? − Yes, they can. In this respect, they can be compared to athletes: a footballer can hurt himself and not train for a month, then start over again and play a match in three days.

The feeling comes back to you very quickly.

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 Have you ever taken a long break from playing? − No, I haven’t. But, each time that I did pause for some seven to ten days, on my first day back, I’d feel like I didn’t play for ten years, on the second day things would be a bit better, and after three days, I’d feel like I had never taken a break. If you don’t practise, you quickly fall out of shape, but you also quickly get into shape. But if you don’t practise for as little as two days, you can’t give a concert. With a one-day break, maybe you can. Most pianists, me included, learn pieces by heart, which is a very intellectually demanding task, similar to learning texts by heart for actors. We memorise everything, because then we can focus on the music and not have to think about the musical score. The work of a pianist is technically also very demanding; many things depend on the fine line between what’s possible and what isn’t, and it’s only one’s artistic performance that sets players apart from musicians.  Has it ever happened to you that, all of a sudden, you feel differently about a musical composition you play often, that you change your approach? − This happens to me regularly. During almost all performances, I see that I can position at least one note in a different, unique music structure. There are also times when, not so much at home, but rather before an audience − and it is a well-known fact that the audience provide a strong impulse − or thanks to conductors who often initiate an idea of theirs, this communion catapults an interpretation that cannot be repeated. During concert performances, I find playing an encore most interesting because the atmosphere is particularly relaxed: you’ve already proven yourself, or you haven’t, but the encore is most definitely the icing on the cake. When I encore a piece I played during the concert, it takes on a whole new dimension, and this thanks exactly to relaxedness and laid-backness. I think that relaxedness and laid-backness elevate art to heaven.  You love Chopin, you often play Beethoven, Bach and Liszt. Which composers have you been focusing on lately? − I love Impressionism a lot, and I’m currently preoccupied with Ravel, as well as Schubert, who balances between classical structure and romantic spontaneity, which I feel really good about. Nonetheless, I love

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everything, from Bach to pieces composed yesterday. Everything has its charms.  I’ve recently read an interview with a pianist who complained about having problems with his neighbours who don’t let him play after 9 p.m. Have you had similar problems? − This is always a huge problem because the piano is a very loud instrument, especially its basses and deep tones. You can’t know what the neighbours’ reaction will be like until you start playing, and you have to rent a flat, have the piano delivered, which is always difficult, physically demanding and expensive, and it’s very stressful having to also think about whether or not someone will tell you within a week’s time that they mind your playing... I’ve been fortunate so far, and I hope that this good fortune will follow me on my future journeys because I’d like to live in as many cities around the world as possible. Being an artist, it’s important to me to have my

 You’ve mentioned cooking. Can you cook? − Yes, I try to eat a healthy diet.  Which of the other arts are you most interested in? − My goal is to watch at least one hundred movies a year. Every day I watch at least one episode of a series, and every week I try to go to a concert and see a theatre show or watch a stand-up comedy show which is very popular in New York and there are some brilliant ones. Once or twice a week I go to an exhibition... Wherever I travel to to give a concert, I make sure I see everything I’m interested in.

This is perhaps the most beautiful part of my work, besides music itself that lifts your soul.  What is the greatest value that success has brought you? − I believe that the most that man can achieve if he’s a performing artist is to put his life in order. Playing the piano professionally reflects a lot in other activities. It requires you to focus mentally, physically and intellectually, to be able to perform in public. You learn how to deal with stress, and, to me, all this is

Glazba zahtijeva golemu koncentraciju. Kad si za klavirom, moraš biti usredotočen, što je danas, kad sve teži distrakciji, teško postići. Istodobno, sviranje je slično meditaciji: kad vježbam, misli i um mi lete.

Music requires a tremendous amount of concentration. When you’re sitting at the piano, you have to be focused, which is today, when everything aspires to distract you, difficult to achieve. At the same time, playing is similar to meditation: when I practise, both my mind and thoughts fly. freedom, to be able to play. Okay, maybe not whenever I want, but it’s important that I don’t have to comply with rigorous house rules.  What’s your daily rhythm like? Are you a morning or an evening type of person? − Earlier in life, I’d take my time waking up, my mornings started slowly, but what I’ve been doing in the last few years is get up, have breakfast and start practising. This rhythm suits me perfectly now. I’ve trained myself to play for a few hours in the morning while I’m mentally and physically fresh, and I spend the rest of the day on other things that I take pleasure in: reading, cultural events, doing sports, fun, socialising, cooking... I believe that having a broad education is important so that what you do − and, in my case, it’s playing music − has a wider context...

more important than anything material. Music is very complex and many musicians I know who’ve changed their profession have found their way around everything else that they do with ease, and this thanks to the habits that they’ve developed by playing music since a young age. Music requires a tremendous amount of concentration. When you’re sitting at the piano, you have to be focused, which is today, when everything aspires to distract you, difficult to achieve. At the same time, playing is similar to meditation: when I practise, both my mind and thoughts fly.  What are you plans? Which concerts have you already arranged? − At the end of June, I’m going on a solo recital tour across China, in mid-July I’m playing in New York, and then I’m coming back to Europe and to the Croatian coast where I’ll be giving a series of concerts during the summer. I’m also working on a new album. 

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BAŠTINA HERITAGE

Korčula je sjajan spoj tradicije i suvremenosti, ugodnoga života i gostoljubivosti te rodni grad svjetskog putnika Marka Pola. U Korčuli gotovo da nema obitelji čiji barem jedan član nije sudjelovao u izvedbama moreške, jedinstvene viteške igre koju su Korčulani prigrlili kao neizostavan dio identiteta grada, vezivno tkivo i ono što ih uvijek iznova okuplja i povezuje. Kako će vam reći bilo koji moreškant, moreška je zapravo korčulanski način života.

Korčula is a brilliant blend of tradition and modernity, of pleasant life and hospitality, and the birthplace of the world traveller Marco Polo. In the town of Korčula, almost every household has at least one member who has partaken in performing the Moreška Sword Dance, a one-of-a-kind chivalrous sword dance that the people of Korčula have embraced as an inseparable part of the town’s identity, its connective tissue, something that always reunites and reunifies them. As any Moreška dancer will tell you, the Moreška Sword Dance is, in fact, Korčula’s way of life.

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Piše/By _ Nora Krstulović

Fotografije/Photos _ Alan Grubelić

Pogled na Korčulu iz Pelješkog kanala A view of Korčula from the Pelješac Canal

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Pogled na zapadnu obalu i kulu Zakerjan (Berim) iz 15. stoljeća A view of the west coast and the Zakerjan (Berim) Tower from the 15th century

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Crkva sv. Mihovila The Church of St. Michael

Pelješki je kanal omiljeno odredište za windsurfing The Pelješac Canal is a popular spot for windsurfing

Ulaz u Stari grad kroz kulu Veliki Revelin iz 14. stoljeća The entrance to the Old Town through the Revelin Tower and Land Gate from the 14th century

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Korčulanska katedrala sv. Marka, 15. st.

Korčula’s Cathedral of St. Mark, 15th century

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Plaža podno kule Zakerjan (Berim) A beach at the foot of the Zakerjan (Berim) Tower

Pogled na Kor훾ulu A view of Kor훾ula

Pro훾elje jedne od brojnih obnovljenih pala훾a u Starome gradu The facade of one of the many renovated palaces in the Old Town

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Restorani uz šetalište Petra Kanavelića ili Zakerjan Restaurants along the Petar Kanavelić or Zakerjan promenade

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Kamena klupa pred Opatskim dvorom A stone bench outside the Bishops’ Palace

Kula Svih svetih ili Rampada s topom iz 1493.

The Tower of All Saints or Rampada with a cannon from 1493

Unutrašnjost korčulanske katedrale sv. Marka s oltarnom palom koju je oslikao Jacopo Tintoretto The interior of Korčula’s Cathedral of St. Mark with an altarpiece painted by Jacopo Tintoretto

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D. Franotović

stav’ me se! prkosno će svojem otmičaru lancima vezana mlada žena u dimijama i s velom preko lica. Tim prizorom, koliko god to nevjerojatno zvučalo u doba pokreta #metoo i #timesup, već stoljećima započinje viteška igra moreška, nekoć udomaćena na cijelome Mediteranu, a posljednje četiri stotine godina sačuvana isključivo u Korčuli. No prkosna i orijentalno odjevena robinja nije jedina začudna osobitost toga baštinskoga bisera. Naoružane mačevima teškim nekoliko kilograma, Bila i Crna vojska u moreški se sukobljavaju zbog djevojke koju je oteo Crni kralj.

U sedam kolapa, virtuoznih ali i prilično opasnih plesnih bitaka, frcaju iskre, bude ponekad i krvi, a na koncu Bili kralj ipak uspije poraziti protivnika i osloboditi zaručnicu. U toj priči, koja neodoljivo podsjeća na Trojanski rat, protagonisti se i danas u Korčuli zovu Bula, Moro i Osman, pa je na neki način moreška živi spomenik kozmopolitizma na Mediteranu. Kako je i zašto nastala te samo u Korčuli opstala tako čudesna mješavina povijesnih utjecaja, stilova, glazbe, plesa i drame pitanje je na koje sa sigurnošću ne mogu odgovoriti ni najveći stručnjaci.

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Prema jednoj teoriji, moreška je svojevrsna izvedenica plesa još iz vremena antičke Grčke. Prema drugoj, korčulanski su je zanatlije naučili od đenoveških mornara u 12. i 13. stoljeću. Treća pak teorija kaže da je nastala kao spomen na rekonkvistu, ponovno kršćansko osvajanje Pirenejskog poluotoka nakon što su njime više stoljeća gospodarili Mauri, te se potom iz španjolske Leride proširila Mediteranom i preko Dubrovnika stigla do Korčule. Doduše, Elsie Ivancich Dunin, profesorica emerita kalifornijskoga sveučilišta UCLA i suradnica zagrebačkog Instituta za etnologiju i folkloristiku, tvrdi da je u 15. i 16. stoljeću u Europi postojao niz varijacija mačevalačkih plesnih igara s temom borbe kršćana protiv Maura te da je stvarnu slijednost moreške nemoguće dokazati. U prilog toj tezi o svojevremenoj rasprostranjenosti moreški ide i činjenica da Orfej Claudija Monteverdija, koji se smatra rodonačelnikom opere, a praizveden je 1607. u Mantovi, završava upravo − moreškom.

Nespornim se čini i to što naziv moreška etimološki potječe od Maura ili Mora (Crnih). Kako su se pak u korčulanskoj moreški kršćani prometnuli u Turke po-

vijesni je mélange za koji, barem zasad, nema pravoga objašnjenja. Profesorica Ivancich Dunin ima, međutim, svoju teoriju: - Znamo da su 1846. godine korčulanski brodograditelji nastupili u Istanbulu. Oni su tad bili pod vlašću Austrije, a jasno je kakvi su bili odnosi bečkoga i carigradskog dvora. Korčulanima vjerojatno nije bilo ugodno usred Osmanskog Carstva nastupiti s igrom u kojoj kršćani pobjeđuju muslimane, pa pretpostavljam da su Turke stavili u pogodnu ulogu bilih, a nekadašnju schiavu prozvali bula.

U Korčuli gotovo da nema obitelji čiji barem jedan član nije sudjelovao ili ne sudjeluje u izvedbama moreške, a to zorno dokazuje i interaktivna povijesna mapa moreškanata (https://madeofmoreska.com/mapa/), u kojoj je najstariji upisani član rođen još davne 1885. godine.

Bilo da su crni ili bili moreškanti, kraljevi, bule ili svirači u limenoj glazbi uz čiju se pratnju izvodi, Korčulani su morešku prigrlili kao neizostavan dio identiteta grada, istodobno i njegovo vezivno tkivo i njegov simbol.

Dapače, za razliku od brojnih sredina u kojima očuvanje baštine ovisi o entuzijazmu

Moreškanti Moreška dancers

malobrojnih pojedinaca, u Korčuli tradiciju moreške njeguju čak dva kulturno-umjetnička društva, a savladati njezin kompleksni sustav plesa, mačevanja i glume djeca počinju učiti već u vrtićkoj dobi. S vremenom je moreška postala srce društvenoga i kulturnog života cijele zajednice pa je, primjerice, njezina limena glazba nekoć zamjenjivala glazbenu školu.

Danas pak u Korčuli postoji ne samo glazbena škola nego i Korkyra Baroque festival svjetskoga glasa, impresivna manifestacija koja gotovo cijelo desetljeće početkom rujna u čudesnoj arhitekturi Korčule i okolnih mjesta ugošćuje najuglednije svjetske glazbenike poput The European Union Baroque Orchestra, ansambla The Royal Wind Music, The Academy of Ancient Music, Le Parlement de Musique, Petrita Çekua i brojnih drugih.

Festival je čedo britanskog poduzetnika i investicijskog bankara Michaela Unswortha i njegove supruge Maše, koji su srednjovjekovne palače u samome srcu korčulanskoga Staroga Grada pretvorili u luksuzni hotel Lešić Dimitri Palace. Uz pomoć umjetničkog ravnatelja Saše Britvića, a potom njegove nasljednice Laure Vadjon, odlučili su u Korčuli stvoriti i podjednako jedinstvenu i ambicioznu kulturnu manifestaciju, no

ni oni nisu mogli bez − moreške. Upravo za potrebe festivala maestro Ivan Josip Skender u suradnji s Tonijem Lozicom, živućom korčulanskom memorijom moreške, rekonstruirao je najstarije sačuvane fragmente glazbenih partitura moreške, one barokne, a moreškanti su zdušno pristali na ne baš jednostavan zadatak: prilagoditi baćenje novoj staroj glazbi. Tako se Korkyra Baroque sada već tradicionalno otvara upravo izvedbom te, barokne moreške, uz glazbenu izvedbu uglednoga Hrvatskog baroknog ansambla, a za tu prigodu, kao i za ostale festivalske večeri, redovito se traži ulaznica više.

Te, barokne note bile su svojedobno i osnova glazbe koju je za morešku skladao umirovljeni general Dominik Giunio, odlučivši se pri tome za dva radikalna, ali i za popularizaciju moreške odlučujuća koraka − da barokne note prilagodi za limenu glazbu, te da praznine popuni popularnim melodijama svojega vremena.

Danas se moreška pak izvodi uz rekonstruiranu partituru Krste Odaka iz 1937. godine, no on nije jedini velikan hrvatske glazbe koji se okušao u skladanju za nju.

Naime, svjesni važnosti glazbe u doživljaju moreške, Korčulani su još 1944. godine naručili glazbu od Brune Bjelinskog, jedno-

D. Fabijanić

D. Fabijanić

ga od najznačajnijih hrvatskih skladatelja 20. stoljeća. Nažalost, partiture maestra Bjelinskog pokazale su se prezahtjevnima za izvođenje lokalnim amaterskim glazbenicima pa nikad nisu zaživjele u izvedbama, a notni zapis vjerojatno je izgubljen u ratnom vihoru.

Sedamdesetih godina prošlog stoljeća nacionalni folklorni ansambl Lado naručio je novu verziju glazbe od oca dalmatinske operete, Ive Tijardovića, no nakon samo nekoliko izvedbi i ta je glazba izašla iz uporabe. Kad je pak na veliko razočaranje Korčulana (a koji se, nakon što su je stoljećima čuvali, protive tome da morešku bati itko drugi) Lado koncem prošlog stoljeća opet poželio vratiti morešku u svoj repertoar, naručio je još jednu glazbenu pratnju, ovaj put od suvremenoga hrvatskog autora Tomislava Uhlika.

No ako i nisu skloni tomu da netko umjesto njih izvodi morešku, Korčulani nisu nespremni za eksperimente i istraživanje, pa su tako tražeći načine da nove generacije dodatno zainteresiraju za ovaj fenomen, prošlog ljeta eksperimentalno izveli i blues/

rock verziju u suradnji sa sastavom Rolin Humes.

Umjetničkom reinterpretacijom moreške u različitim medijima bavi se pak već treću godinu projekt Made of: Moreška, dokumentirajući, istražujući i propitujući njezine odjeke od nakita preko glazbe do likovnosti, a sve u namjeri da pokaže kako kultura, umjetnost i baština definiraju identitet neke sredine i kako odnos prema toj baštini može promijeniti način na koji cijela jedna sredina funkcionira.

Je li moreška zaslužna za kozmopolitski duh grada Korčule ili je pak obratno? Zašto je preživjela samo u toj sredini i koliko bi Korčula bila drugačija bez moreške?

Korčula je sjajan spoj tradicije i suvreme-

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nosti, ugodnoga − rekli bi domaći − bonkulovićkog života i gostoljubivosti, a moreška kao da je njezino vezivno tkivo i ono što uvijek iznova okuplja i povezuje cijelu zajednicu.

Uostalom, prvi poznati dokument o postojanju moreške u Korčuli, od 7. ožujka 1666. godine, zapravo je svojevrsna prekršajna prijava moreškanata lokalnim vlastima, odnosno Knezu, predstavniku Venecijanske Republike.

Troje građana prijavilo je tada moreškante zbog dugotrajne zabave, ali ih je država odbila sankcionirati uz obrazloženje kako u pokladno doba, kada se incident i dogodio, u Korčuli vrijede druga pravila ponašanja.

Korčula je i rodni grad svjetskog putnika Marka Pola, u njezinoj se znamenitoj katedrali kamenoklesarskih majstora graditelja Marka i Petra Andrijića nalazi oltarna pala što ju je oslikao sam Jacopo Tintoretto.

Konačno, Korčula je jedini dalmatinski otok koji se uz diljem svijeta proslavljena vina može pohvaliti i Michelinovom preporukom  za lokalnu gastronomsku ponudu.

L

eave me alone!, a young woman dressed in harem pants, a veil covering her face, shackled, says defiantly to her abductors. This may indeed sound incredible at the time of the #metoo and

D. Fabijanić

Crni moreškanti s Bulom Black Army Moreška dancers with Bula

U Korčulu možete doći i za poklada, ali i za njihove ljetne inačice − Dočeka pola nove godine, a tijekom ljetnih mjeseci morešku možete pogledati svakoga tjedna. No posebno su svečane izvedbe povodom dana gradskog zaštitnika sv. Todora, 29. srpnja, kada kao i za poklada Korčula živi posebnim ritmom.

Korčula se diči jednim od najstarijih pravnih dokumenata u ovome dijelu Europe, Korčulanskim statutom, koji je još u 13. stoljeću regulirao život u srednjovjekovnom gradu, izgrađenom po strogim regulama tadašnjeg urbanizma, a u jedinstvenome rasteru oblika riblje kosti.

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#timesup movements, but it is with this scene that the Moreška Sword Dance has been opening for centuries, a dance once performed across the Mediterranean, while today preserved exclusively in Korčula, and this for four hundred years. But the defiant woman slave wearing a Middle Eastern dress isn’t the only odd curiosity of this pearl of heritage. During the Moreška Sword Dance, the White and Black Army armed with swords weighing a few kilograms fight each other over the woman taken captive by the Black King. During the course of seven kolaps, virtuoso and

rather dangerous dance battles, sparks fly, there’s even blood at times, and in the end, the White King succeeds in defeating his adversary and freeing his bride-to-be. In this story, which reminds irresistibly of the Trojan War, Korčula’s protagonists are even today called Bula, Moro and Osman, which in a way makes the Moreška Sword Dance a living monument to cosmopolitanism in the Mediterranean. Not even the greatest of experts can give a clear answer to the question of how and why the Moreška Sword Dance came into existence, and why this curious cocktail of historical influences, styles, music, dance and drama survived only in Korčula.

According to one theory, the Moreška Sword Dance was derived from a dance performed in Ancient Greece. According to another, Korčula’s craftsmen learned it from Genoa’s sailors in the 12th and 13th centuries. A third theory says that it originated in memory of the Reconquista, the Christian reconquering of the Iberian Peninsula after centuries of Moorish administration, spreading from Lleida in Spain across the Mediterranean, and reaching Korčula via Dubrovnik. Admittedly, Elsie Ivancich Dunin, professor emerita at UCLA and associate of the Institute of Ethnology and Folklore Research in Zagreb, claims that, during the 15th and 16th centuries, there were many variations of sword dances and games in Europe whose central theme was Christians fighting the Moors, and that it is impossible to trace the origins of the Moreška Sword Dance with absolute certainty. The fact that L’Orfeo, which premiered in 1607 in Mantua, by Claudio Monteverdi, considered to be the father of opera, closes with a Moreška Sword Dance goes in favour of the thesis that there indeed was a time when the Moreška was widespread.

There is no doubt that, etymologically speaking, the name Moreška is derived from the name designating the Moorish people. That the Christians in Korčula’s Moreška Sword Dance had become Turks is a historical mélange, which has no real explanation, at least not at present. Nonetheless, Professor Ivancich Dunin has her theory: − We know that in 1846 Korčula-based shipbuilders performed in Istanbul. They lived under Austrian rule at the time, and we know what the relations between the courts of Vienna and Constantinople were like. It’s safe to assume that the shipbuild-

INSPIRING. REFINED. TIMELESS.

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to a brass band and to fill in the missing parts of the score with tunes that were popular at the time.

The musical score accompanying the performance of today’s Moreška is Krsto Odak’s score from 1937, although he’s not the only giant of Croatian music to have tried his hand at composing for it. More specifically, well aware of the importance of the musical accompaniment in one’s experience of the Moreška Sword Dance, as early as 1944 the people of Korčula commissioned Bruno Bjelinski, one of the most important Croatian composers of the 20th century, to compose the music for the Moreška. Sadly, maestro Bjelinski’s score proved to be too demanding for Korčula’s local, amateur musicians. As a result, his music never saw the light of day, and his score was probably lost in the whirlwind of war.

In the seventies of the last century, Lado, the national folk dance ensemble of Croatia, commissioned Ivo Tijardović, the father of Dalmatian operetta, to write a new version of music for the Moreška, but it too was abandoned after as little as a few performances. When, at the end of the last century, Lado went about reintroducing the Moreška to its repertoire − and this to the great disappointment of the people of Korčula who, after having kept it for centuries, protested against others performing it − they commissioned yet another piece of music. This time, from a contemporary Croatian composer, namely Tomislav Uhlik.

However, irrespective of the fact that the people of Korčula dislike the idea that others should perform the Moreška, they are not unwilling to experiment and research.

S. Tafra

Bili kralj s krunom The White King with the crown

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Orchestra, the Royal Wind Music ensemble, the Academy of Ancient Music, Le Parlement de Musique, Petrit Çeku and many others, and this for nearly a decade at the beginning of September each year against a backdrop of the marvellous architecture of Korčula and surrounding places.

The festival was birthed by the British entrepreneur and investment banker Michael Unsworth and his wife Maša, who turned medieval palaces at the very heart of Korčula’s Old Town into the luxury Lešić Dimitri Palace hotel. With the help of the artistic director Saša Britvić and his successor Laura Vadjon, they decided to set up an equally unique and ambitious cultural event in Korčula, but that too couldn’t be done without − the Moreška.

It was for the needs of the festival that maestro Ivan Josip Skender reconstructed, in collaboration with Toni Lozica, a walking encyclopaedia of Korčula’s Moreška, the oldest preserved fragments of the musical score of the Moreška, the Baroque one,

with the dancers agreeing wholeheartedly to take on a not so simple task: adapting their battling to this new-old music. So, the Korkyra Baroque festival now traditionally opens exactly with the performance of this Baroque variant of Moreška backed by the acclaimed Croatian Baroque Ensemble, with tickets not just for this performance, but for all the other festival performances regularly selling out fast.

The Baroque musical score was once the basis of the Moreška music composed by the retired general Dominik Giunio, who decided to take two steps that were radical, yet decisive for the popularisation of the Moreška − to adapt the Baroque score

Enrico Onofri i Hrvatski barokni ansambl na Korkyra Baroque Festivalu Enrico Onofri and the Croatian Baroque Ensemble at the Korkyra Baroque festival

B. Berc

ers of Korčula didn’t feel comfortable at the very heart of the Ottoman Empire whilst performing a dance in which Christians beat the Muslims, and so it’s also safe to assume that what they did is give the Turks the more favourable role of the White Army, while renaming the once schiava (a Slavic woman in translation) a bula (a Turkish woman in translation).

In the town of Korčula, almost every household has at least one member who has partaken in performing the Moreška Sword Dance, clear evidence of which is the interactive historical map of Moreška dancers (https://madeofmoreska.com/ mapa/), with the oldest registered member born in 1885. Whether in the role of black or white Moreška soldiers, kings, bulas or brass band musicians accompanying the performance, the people of Korčula have embraced it as an inseparable part of the town’s identity, its connective tissue and its symbol.

Indeed, unlike in many communities where heritage preservation depends on the enthusiasm of a few individuals, in Korčula the Moreška tradition is kept alive by two cultural-artistic associations, with children taught its complex system of dancing, its swordsmanship and acting already at preschool age. Over time, the Moreška Sword Dance has become the heart of social and cultural life of the entire community, with its brass band musicians, for example, once acting as music school teachers.

Today’s Korčula has not only a music school, but also its world-famous Korkyra Baroque festival, an impressive event that has been hosting such world-renowned musicians as the European Union Baroque

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with the Moreška Sword Dance appearing to be its connective tissue, that something which reunites and reunifies the entire community always and anew.

Interestingly, the first known document that makes mention of the Moreška Sword Dance in Korčula, dated 7th March 1666, is in fact a misdemeanour report of sorts of Moreška dancers to the local authorities, that is the Count, the representative of the Republic of Venice. More specifically, three residents reported Moreška dancers for partying into the small hours, but the state refused to sanction them, arguing that, during carnival festivities, which is when the incident happened, different rules of social conduct apply in Korčula.

Korčula is worth visiting during its carnival festivities, as well as during its summer version, Korčula’s one-of-a-kind invention − the Half New Year’s Eve Party. The Moreška Sword Dance can be enjoyed each week during the summer months.

The performance that Moreška dancers give whilst celebrating the name day of the town’s patron saint, St. Theodor, on 29th July − when Korčula comes alive, as during its carnival festivities − is particularly grandiose.

Korčula is a community that takes pride in the fact that it is home to one of the oldest legal documents in this part of Europe, namely the Statute of Korčula. It regulated 13th century life in this medieval town, built according to the strict rules of then urbanism − its streets are laid out in the unique shape of a fishbone.

Korčula is also the birthplace of the world traveller Marco Polo. Also, its famed cathedral built by master stonemasons Marko and Petar Andrijić houses an altarpiece painted by Jacopo Tintoretto himself. Finally, Korčula is the only Dalmatian island that boasts, besides world-famous wines, a Michelin recommendation for its  local food offer.

Korčulanske pjatance

proizvođača autohtonih sorti pošipa, grka i plavca malog, festival je izvrstan smjer kojim Korčula upotpunjuje svoju turističku ponudu.

wine scene. Featuring renowned guests, chef David Skoko and pastry chef Petra Jelenić, accompanied brilliantly by excellent Korčulaand Pelješac-based winemakers, producers of the autochthonous pošip, grk and plavac mali varieties of grape, the festival enriches Korčula’s tourist offer splendidly.

O iznimnoj maštovitosti korčulanske enogastronomske scene mogli su se osvjedočiti i svi oni koji su ove godine posjetili drugo izdanje Korčulanskih pjatanci, proljetnoga festivala hrane i vina u kojemu su sudjelovali korčulanski restorani i lokalni proizvođači Adio Mare, Aterina, BARić, Eko Škoj, Filippi, Konoba Maha, Konoba Mate iz Pupnata, Marco’s, Nonno, Radiona, hotel Korčula De la Ville te Lešić Dimitri Palace Restaurant.

Uz renomirane goste, chefa Davida Skoku i slastičarku Petru Jelenić, te sjajnu pratnju odličnih korčulanskih i peljeških vinara,

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All those who attended this year’s second edition of Korčulanske Pjatance, a spring food and wine festival − featuring Korčula’s restaurants and local food producers, namely Adio Mare Restaurant, Aterina Restaurant, BARić Wine Bar, Eko Škoj family farm, Filippi Restaurant, Maha Brasserie, Mate Restaurant from Pupnat, Marco’s Bar and Food, Nonno Restaurant, Radiona Restaurant, Korčula De la Ville Hotel and Lešić Dimitri Palace Restaurant − could testify to the exceptional ingenuity of Korčula’s food and

D. Fabijanić

In turn, in their looking for ways to generate more interest in this phenomenon with the new generations, last summer they performed an experimental blues-rock version of the Moreška in collaboration with the Rolin Humes quartet.

Artistic reinterpretations of the Moreška in different media have been researched for three years by the Made of: Moreška project, documenting, exploring and inquiring into the influences of Moreška on jewellery, music and art. Their intention is to show how culture, art and heritage define the identity of a community, and how the relationship to this heritage can change the way an entire community functions.

Is the cosmopolitan spirit of the town of Korčula the merit of the Moreška Sword Dance or is it the other way round? Why has it survived only in this community and how different would Korčula be without it?

Korčula is a brilliant blend of tradition and modernity, of pleasant life and hospitality,

Made of: Moreška is an art project that reinterprets city of Korčula’s identity and history. madeofmoreska.com

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ZAGREB Ulica Grada Vukovara 284 Tel+385 1 366 4490 SPLIT Trg Hrv. Bratske Zajednice 4 Tel+385 21 32 36 80 36 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

www.artinterijeri.hr

GASTRO

OPISANA MASLINOVIM ULJEM

ISTRIA, PORTRAYED IN OLIVE OIL

Piše/By _ Albert Donsky Fotografije/Photos _ Damir Fabijanić

U maslinama Istre, od maslinove grančice kao simbola mira do najkvalitetnijeg ulja, živi duh antike na ovome prostoru. Važan zemljopisni položaj Istre, kao jednoga od najsjevernijih područja gdje se uzgajaju masline, bio je, naime, poznat već u antici. Upravo ulja iz takvih krajeva imaju visok sadržaj nezasićenih masnih kiselina i antioksidanta (polifenola), koje istarsko djevičansko maslinovo ulje čine tako aromatičnim i zdravim.

The spirit of Antiquity lives in the olive groves of Istria, in the olive branch as a symbol of peace and in its highest quality olive oils. Just how important Istria’s geographic position was as one of the northernmost olive growing regions was known already in Antiquity. It is precisely olive oils from such regions that have a high content of unsaturated fatty acids and antioxidants (polyphenols), which make Istrian virgin olive oils so aromatic and healthy.

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01

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01 Maslinovo ulje uz desert A dessert garnished with olive oil 02 Duilio i/and Bosiljka Belić

U

02

posljednjih je trideset godina ostvaren izniman napredak u proizvodnji (zahvaljujući ponajprije poticajima za sadnju i primjeni najnovije tehnologije), od plodova stranih, uglavnom najboljih talijanskih sorti, kao što su ascolana tenera, casaliva, cipressino, frantoio, itrana, leccino, pendolino, picholine i druge, do domaćih istarskih kao što su buža, istarska bjelica, rosulja i črnica.

Danas istarski uljari postižu vrhunske rezultate u kvaliteti, dobivaju najznačajnije svjetske nagrade na međunarodnim natjecanjima (npr. briljantni uspjesi u vodiču Flos Olei kao regija s najviše odlično ocijenjenih ulja), a ta, donedavno potpuno nepoznata imena istarskih sorti postaju važan razlog dolaska turista. Imena najuspješnijih proizvođača izrastaju u prave brendove, najbolje ambasadore istarskoga poluotoka, a izniman su poticaj i mlađim, novim ambicioznim uljarima. Istarska maslinarska scena postaje i uzor uljarima diljem hrvatskoga Jadrana. Upoznajte istarske ceste maslinovog ulja.

to the olive oil business. The Istrian olive growing scene has also become a role model for olive growers and oil producers across the Croatian Adriatic. Let’s tour the Istrian olive oil roads.

Oleum viride Belić: izaziva, iznenađuje i osvaja Strast zaljubljenika i postojana vjera u kvalitetu susreli su se u maslinicima Fažane, Peroja i Galižane, gdje počinje priča o vrhunskome maslinovom ulju Oleum viride Belić.

Bosiljku i Duilija Belića spajaju desetljeća uspješnoga zajedničkog života u kojemu je karijera u velikom gradu zadržala čvrstu sponu s Duiliovom rodnom Istrom. Taj ih je put doveo i do brojnih elitnih priznanja za najbolja maslinova ulja na svijetu, ulja koja su kušali španjolski dvor i Sveti Otac i koja su tražena od Japana do europskih metropola.

Oleum viride Belić vrhunski je proizvod koji suvremenu tehnologiju i najnovija znanstvena dostignuća stapa s tisućljetnom tradicijom maslinarstva. Vrijedi kušati i dopustiti pikantnim, voćnim, svježim okusima da iznenade, začude i osvoje... U oleotekama u Rapcu i Zagrebu, koje su same po sebi doživljaj, sve je pomnjivo pripremljeno za rapsodiju okusa i mirisa, za degustaciju čak 14 jednosortnih ekstradjevičanskih ulja. Upravo su Belići prvi istarski maslinari koji su jednosortnim uljima iznenadili i oduševili tržište, znalce i zaljubljenike.

Potom su pažljivo odabrali devet jednosortnih ulja i stvorili − Selekciju Belić.

Belići su pokretački duh još jednog trenda − neprestano istražuju kako se vrhunsko maslinovo ulje sljubljuje s hrabrim idejama i

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n the last thirty years, there’s been considerable improvement in the production of (thanks, in particular, to olive tree planting subsidies and the implementation of the latest technology) mostly the best foreign − Italian, to be precise − cultivars, such as ascolana tenera, casaliva, cipressino, frantoio, itrana, leccino, pendolino, picholine and others, and local Istrian varieties, such as buža, istarska bjelica, rosulja and črnica.

Today, Istrian olive oil producers achieve top quality results, and have received the most important prizes at international competitions (e.g., appearing in the Flos Olei guide as the region with the most highly rated olive oils is a major success). Moreover, Istrian olive varieties which have until recently been almost completely unknown have become an important reason for the arrival of tourists.

The names of the most successful producers have become proper brand names, the best ambassadors of the Istrian Peninsula, and have been very encouraging for younger, ambitious newcomers

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iskoracima u gastronomiji. Čokoladna torta s nekoliko kapi istarske bjelice već je klasik, a u nizu tematskih večeri u suradnji s vrhunskim chefovima dodali su kap gastronomske čarolije i delicijama od boškarina ili jastoga, neobičnom povrću ili pralinama...

Belići ponosno ističu da je Istra već treću godinu najbolja maslinarska regija na svijetu te da se afirmirala na najvećim svjetskim natjecanjima i ljestvicama autohtonim sortama kao što su buža, rosulja, istarska bjelica i vodnjanska črnica.

Turist namjernik, zaljubljenik, gastro znalac... svatko će biti dio čarolije koja dodiruje sva osjetila − dovoljno je samo zakoračiti kroz vrata oleoteke Oleum viride u Rapcu.

OLEA B.B. d.o.o.

Creska 34, 52221 Rabac

Oleum Viride Belić: arouses, surprises and wins you over The passion of lovers of olive oil and an unfailing devotion to quality have converged in the olive groves of Fažana, Peroj and Galižana, where the story of top quality Oleum Viride Belić olive oils begins.

What has kept Bosiljka and Duilio Belić united are decades of a successful life as a couple, during whose individual careers in the big city they have managed to maintain a strong bond with Duilio’s native Istria. This joint path of theirs has led them to receive the highest accolades for best olive oils in the world, oils that have been tasted in the Spanish court and given as a gift to the Holy Father in the Vatican, much sought-after oils awarded in Japan and throughout Europe.

Oleum Viride Belić is a top quality product fusing state-of-the-art technology and the latest scientific innovations with the millennia-old tradition of olive growing. It’s worth tasting and allowing piquant, fruity, fresh flavours to surprise, amaze and win you over...

In their olive oil tasting shops in Rabac and Zagreb, which are an experience in their own right, all has been prepared in meticulous detail for a rhapsody of tastes and aromas − for the tasting of as many as 14 monovarietal extra virgin olive oils. The Belićes were the first Istrian olive growers to surprise and delight the market, connoisseurs and lovers of olive oil with their monovarietal oils. Then they carefully selected nine of their monovarietal olive oils and created − Selekcija Belić.

The Belićes are the driving force behind another trend − they have incessantly been exploring ways in which top quality olive oil

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Arhiva obitelji Chiavalon / Chiavalon’s family archives

www.oleabb.hr

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blends with bold gastronomic ideas and culinary advances. Chocolate cake with several drops of istarska bjelica olive oil has already become a classic, and in a series of themed evenings, and this in collaboration with top chefs, they have added a dash of gastronomic magic to delicacies featuring the autochthonous Istrian Boškarin beef cattle or lobster, unusual vegetables or pralines...

The Belićes proudly point out that Istria has been the best olive growing region in the world for three years, and that it has affirmed itself at leading international competitions and rankings with its autochthonous varieties of olive, such as buža, rosulja,

istarska bjelica and vodnjanska črnica.

Chance passers-by, lovers and gourmet connoisseurs of olive oil... will all be part of the magic that touches all the senses − all you have to do is step inside the Belićes’ tasting shop in Rabac.

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01 Tedi i/and Sandi Chiavalon 02 Berba maslina u masliniku Chiavalonovih Olive picking at Chiavalon’s olive grove

I. Zirojević

03 Kušaonica Chiavalon u Vodnjanu The Chiavalon tasting shop in Vodnjan

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D.Celija

Ulja Chiavalon, vrhunska skladnost obiteljskoga duha Masline su naš život i naš posao, kategoričan je Sandi Chiavalon, koji se prije 21 godinu upustio u avanturu u kojoj danas sudjeluje cijela obitelj. Od sjetne priče o djedu koji je upoznao unuka sa svijetom

maslina i ozbiljnoga dječjeg hobija ostala je ista strast koja se upotpunila strukom (Agronomski fakultet) i brigom o cjelokupnoj proizvodnji.

Tijekom fakulteta, početkom 2000. godine, druženja s istarskim vinarima koji su prvi krenuli u predstavljanje nove istarske

eno-gastronomske priče proširila su mu horizonte i uputila ga u smjerove razvoja. Od prve ambalaže i boca uz nova je ulaganja sve krenulo profesionalnije 2007. godine suradnjom s dizajnerima agencije Bruketa&Žinić, s kojima i danas surađuju.

Ta se vrhunska kvaliteta ekstra djevičanskoga maslinovog ulja (uz ekološku proizvodnju) temelji na domaćim sortama − buži, bjelici, moražoli, rožinjoli (rosulji) i carbonazzi (črnici). Cijeli posao danas vode Sandi, koji je zadužen za proizvodnju, i brat Tedi, koji brine o prodaji, marketingu, financijama i poslu oko kušaonice.

Chiavaloni su bili među prvima koji su prihvatili ranu berbu (kada manje od trećine plodova promijeni boju) te obradu hladnim postupkom ekstrakcije u kontroliranom okruženju i preradom isti dan nakon branja. Danas, zahvaljujući preradi u svojoj novoj uljari, koja slijedi najnovija načela visoke tehnologije, prerađuju masline u samo nekoliko sati poslije berbe i tako dodatno pomiču granice vrhunske kvalitete.

Ekstra djevičanska maslinova ulja Chiavalon spadaju među najnagrađivanija hrvatska maslinova ulja u svijetu. Poznati vodič Flos Olei redovito ih uvrštava u svoju listu od 500 najboljih maslinovih ulja svijeta s ocjenom 95/100, organizacija World’s best olive oils smjestila ih je među vodećih 25 svjetskih ekoloških proizvođača, a nedav-

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no su dobili i Michelinovu preporuku!

Chiavalonova ulja s veselim etiketama − Ex albis, Organic i Mlado (limitirana serija iz prva tri dana berbe), Ex albis Special edition, Romani i Atilio − možete najbolje kušati i kupiti u njihovoj lijepoj kušaonici i trgovini u Vodnjanu, ali i u duty free trgovinama u zračnim lukama.

OPG Chiavalon Vladimira Nazora 16, 52215 Vodnjan www.chiavalon.hr

Chiavalon oils, a perfect harmony of the spirit of family Olives are our life and our livelihood, Sandi Chiavalon is categorical. 21 years ago, he embarked on an adventure which his

who’s responsible for sales, marketing, finances and their tasting shop.

The Chiavalon family were amongst the first to have adopted harvesting early (when less than a third of the fruits change colour) and the cold press extraction method in a controlled environment processing their harvest on the same day of picking. Today, thanks to processing olives in their new high-tech olive oil mill, they process olives within a few hours from harvesting, thus pushing back the boundaries of high quality.

The Chiavalon extra virgin olive oils are amongst the most prized Croatian olive oils in the world. The famous Flos Olei guide regularly ranks them amongst the world’s top 100 olive oils with a rating of 95/100, the World’s Best Olive Oils organisation has ranked them amongst the top 25 organic producers in the world, and they have recently been recommended by the Michelin Guide!

The best place to taste and buy Chiavalon’s olive oils packaged in cheerfully labelled bottles − Ex Albis, Organic, Mlado (a limited edition of olive oil produced during the first three days of early harvest), Ex Albis Special Edition, Romani and Atilio − is in their lovely tasting shop in Vodnjan, as well as in duty free shops at airports.

Ulja Ipša, plodovi s terasa zemljanog amfiteatra na sjeveru Istre Kada zimska magla prekrije motovunsku udolinu, u zavjetrini, na gornjim dijelovima istočnih terasastih obronaka, na 190 do 250 metara nadmorske visine, Ipšine masline i dalje obasjava sunce. Na tom se zemljanom amfiteatru smjestilo selo Ipši (u kojemu danas živi 16 stanovnika!) te

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entire family is now part of. What has remained from his wistful story about his grandfather who had introduced his grandson to the world of olives and a serious children’s hobby is the same passion that Sandi complemented with relevant tertiary-level education (Faculty of Agriculture) and attention to the entire production process.

During his studies, at the beginning of 2000, his keeping company with Istrian winemakers who were the first to embark on presenting Istria’s new wine and food story expanded his horizons and channelled him in the direction of development. He invested in his first bottle and label design in 2007 in collaboration with the Bruketa&Žinić advertising agency − whom he has continued working with ever since − thanks to which his business became more professional.

The top quality of his extra virgin olive oils (besides organic production) is based on local varieties − buža, bjelica, moražola, rožinjola (rosulja) and carbonazza or črnica.

Business is today run by Sandi, who’s in charge of production, and his brother Tedi, 02

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01 Položaji maslinika Ipša The position of the Ipša olive grove 02 Kušaonica u Ipšima i pogled na Motovun The tasting shop in Ipši and a view of Motovun 03 Otac Klaudio i sin Ivan Ipša Father and son, Klaudio and Ivan Ipša

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rubu ima posebne osobine, misli upravo na jedinstveni zemljopisni položaj i ekološki način proizvodnje uz stručno praćenje, koji daju iznimne rezultate.

Ekstra djevičanska maslinova ulja Ipša proizvode se u suvremenim tehnološkim uvjetima kao monosortna ulja leccino (lagano), frantoio (srednje jako), istarska bjelica (jako) i selekcija (od svih 5 sorti: istarska bjelica, frantoio, leccino, bugla i črnica). Međunarodne nagrade otvaraju vrata i izvozu od Austrije do Japana.

Ipša d.o.o.

Ipši 10, 52427 Livade www.ipsa-maslinovaulja.hr

Ipša oils, fruits from the terraces of a soil amphitheatre in the north of Istria When the winter mist covers the Motovun vale,

G.Šebelic

sjedište obiteljske uljare Ipša. Na 5 hektara zemlje s tisuću stabala posađenih 1998. godine, na terenu gdje su i nekad postojale obiteljske masline, danas su novi maslinici. Zaštićeni su od magle i studeni iako je riječ o jednome od najsjevernijih i najviših položaja u Istri.

U potpuno zaokruženoj obiteljskoj proizvodnji, otac Klaudio, supruga Irena, sin Ivan i kći Antonia povezali su svoju ljubav i poslovni interes u stvaranju vrhunskoga ulja. Kad Klaudio kaže da proizvodnja na

Prije 9 godina obitelj Ipša odlučila se i na proizvodnju vina, na jednak, potpuno kontrolirani i ekološki način proizvodnje u vlastitim vinogradima. Uz prijateljsku suradnju renomiranoga istarskog vinara Georgija Claija zasadili su istarsku malvaziju, chardonnay, sauvignon, sivi pinot, refošk, merlot i teran.

Uz pažljivu i strpljivu kontroliranu proizvodnju tek su lani izbacili prvo vino na tržište i već postigli sjajne odzive.

Uz ozbiljan rad na 22 hektra maslinika i vinograda uskoro će izgraditi i novu kušaonicu.

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in the lee, on the upper parts of east-facing terraced slopes, at 1,900 to 2,500 metres above sea level, Ipša’s olive trees continue to be bathed in sunshine. It is here, in this soil amphitheatre, that the village of Ipši (home to as little as 16 residents today!) found its place and that the premises of the family-run Ipša olive oil company are. On 5 hectares of land where a thousand olive trees were planted in 1998, on a terrain where the Ipša family once had olives growing, is where today’s new olive groves are planted.

Although this terrain is one of the northernmost regions at some of the highest altitudes in Istria, the olive trees are protected from fog and frost.

In their production, which is entirely family-run − namely by father Klaudio, his wife Irena, their son Ivan and their daughter Antonia − they’ve combined their love with a business interest in creating top quality olive oil. When Klaudio says that production on the outskirts yields special properties, what he’s referring to are the unique geographic position and an organic production method expertly supervised, which produce exceptional results.

Ipša extra virgin olive oils are produced in a technologically well-equipped mill, and include the following monovarietal olive oils: Leccino (light), Frantoio (medium), Istarska Bjelica (strong) and Selekcija (blended from 5 cultivars: istarska

bjelica, frantoio, leccino, bugla and črnica).

The international awards they’ve received have opened the door to export from Austria to Japan.

9 years ago, the Ipša family decided to also start producing wine, applying the same, completely controlled and organic production method in their own vineyards. Helped amicably by the renowned Istrian winemaker Giorgio Clai, they planted the Istrian malvazija, chardonnay, sauvignon, pinot gris, refoško, merlot and teran varieties of grape.

Growing their grapes with care and patiently, they put their first bottles of wine on the market only

last year, having already achieved much success.

Besides working hard on their 22 hectares of olive groves and vineyards, they’re soon to open a new tasting shop.

Ulja Mate, emocije obitelji Vekić pretočene u maslinovo ulje Zemlja je budućnost rečenica je Mate Vekića, vizionara i osnivača ove uljare, koja najbolje ilustrira njegovu ljubav prema istarskoj zemlji simbolički pretočenu u maslinu, jedan od najplemenitijih plodova zemlje.

Od davnih je dana, otkako je prepoznao

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mjesto gdje se danas nalazi uljara Agrofin u Zambratiji okružena maslinama na crvenoj zemlji, s pogledom na more, do kupnje zemljišta u Karigadoru, gdje se danas nalaze njihovi najveći maslinici, Mate Vekić upijao miris zemlje, maslina i hrasta. S navršenih 75 godina odlučio se za ostvarenje svojeg sna o maslinicima i uljari.

Zbog iskrena poštovanja i ljubavi prema ocu, zbog razumijevanja i prihvaćanja jednakoga zanosa prema zemlji, njegova kći nastavila je ostvarivati očevu životnu želju.

Nakon godina provedenih u Švicarskoj i radeći po svijetu nastavila je s uzgojem postojećih sorti i unaprijedila ih, zasadila autohtone sorte, učila o biodinamičkome uzgoju od vinara i uljara Claija te danas stvara ulje iznimne kvalitete, ali i nove etikete i boce. Ime ulja posvetila je ocu − Mate.

Bianca bellezza (istarska bjelica), trasparenza marina (sorte leccino i pendolino, pogodne za ribu), timbro istriano (sorta frantoio, koja odgovara mesu i povrću) i professional blend (koji udružuje sorte frantoio, leccino i pendolino) njihove su marke ulja. Najnoviji proizvod, koji je odlično prihvaćen na tržištu, aromatizirana su maslinova ulja s okusom limuna i naranče. Agrofin sa 30 000 stabala maslina dobiva od 28 000 do 30 000 litara ulja godišnje. Nakon sadnje talijanskih sorti maslina (u samome

početku, kao i kod većine drugih maslinara u Istri, godinama nije bilo dovoljno sadnica domaćih sorti), danas sade istarsku bjelicu, bužu i črnicu.

Misija Mate Vekića se nastavlja. Može se prepoznati u svakoj kapi ulja koje dolazi od zemlje, sunca i ploda masline iz ovog kraja.

Agrofin d.o.o.

Romanija 60/A - Zambratija, 52475 Savudrija www.mateoliveoil.com

Mate oils, the emotions of the Vekić family liquidised into olive oil Our soil is our future is a statement made by Mate Vekić, a visionary and founder of this olive oil production business, which best illustrates his love of the Istrian land symbolically transformed into olives, one of the most noble fruits of the land.

Mate Vekić had been absorbing the scents of earth, olive and oak since olden times, since he spotted the place where today’s Agrofin Company is positioned in Zambratija surrounded by olive trees in red soil overlooking the sea, and since he purchased land in Karigador, where their largest olive groves are. At the age of 75, he decided to make his dreams of planting an olive grove and of making olive oil − come true.

Out of her great respect and love for her father, out of her understanding and accepting

his zeal for the land, his daughter followed in her father’s footsteps. After having spent years in Switzerland and having worked around the world, she continued cultivating and bettering the existing varieties, planted autochthonous varieties, learnt about biodynamic farming from the Clai Winery and Wine Cellar, and today produces outstanding quality olive oil, bottling it in newly designed bottles. She dedicated the oils she produces to her father naming the brand after him − Mate.

These are the types of olive oil they produce: Bianca Bellezza (obtained from istarska bjelica), Trasparenza Marina (obtained from leccino and pendolino olives, ideal for fish), Timbro Istriano (obtained from frantoio olives, ideal for meat dishes) and their Professional Blend (blended from frantoio, leccino and pendolino cultivars). Lemon and orange flavoured olive oils are their latest products, well-received by the market. Agrofin has 30,000 olive trees, from which 28 to 30 thousand litres of oil are obtained per year. After having first planted Italian varieties of olive (at the very beginning, as with most other olive growers in Istria, there hadn’t been enough seedlings of domestic varieties for years), today they plant istarska bjelica, buža and črnica.

Mate Vekić’s mission continues. It is recognised in each and every drop of olive oil coming from the soil, the sun, and olive fruits from this region.

01 Uljara Agrofin u Zambratiji The Agrofin olive mill in Zambratija 02 Maslinik u Zambratiji An olive grove in Zambratija 03 Mlada ekipa iz Agrofina Agrofin’s youthful team

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the kvarner region tourism office 51410 opatija, nikole tesle 2, t +385 (0)51 272 988, f +385 (0)51 272 909, e kvarner@kvarner.hr “kvarner info - adriatic gate”, t +385 (0)51 623 333, 628 888, F +385 (0)51 623 334, e info@kvarner.hr www.kvarner.hr 46 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

Visit KVARNER Croatia’s best kept secret

Diversity is beautiful

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REPORT

U

bogatoj baštini koju Republika Hrvatska njeguje i uspješno čuva već stoljećima nalaze se i brojni autohtoni poljoprivredno-prehrambeni proizvodi. Oni stvaraju specifičan gastronomski identitet Hrvatske koji kroz turistički tanjur postaje sve prepoznatljiviji i izvan nacionalnih granica.

Projekt zaštite i brendiranja lokalnih autohtonih proizvoda snažnije je temelje dobio nakon pridruživanja Hrvatske Europskoj uniji 2013. te odluke Ministarstva poljoprivrede da aktivno podrži sve udruge proizvođača koje žele dobiti neku od triju EU oznaka kvalitete. Riječ je o zaštićenoj oznaci izvornosti, zaštićenoj oznaci zemljopisnog podrijetla i zajamčeno tradicionalnom specijalitetu.

Prvu EU oznaku, i to zaštićenu oznaku zemljopisnog podrijetla, dobio je Krčki pršut 14. travnja 2015. Odlukom Hrvatskog sabora taj se datum obilježava kao Dan

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zaštićenih hrvatskih autohtonih proizvoda, što je i poruka javnosti o važnosti očuvanja tradicije i brendiranja Hrvatske s obzirom na snažnu tržišnu prepoznatljivost europskih oznaka.

Do lipnja 2018. EU oznake dobilo je 19 autohtonih poljoprivrednih i prehrambenih proizvoda, što je Hrvatsku dovelo na visoko 11. mjesto, koje dijeli s Belgijom i Slovačkom, te smjestilo ispred mnogih starih članica. Još je osam proizvoda u postupku registracije oznake na razini EU-a, a neki od njih postupak bi mogli završiti do kraja godine. No ova se hrvatska uspješnica nastavlja: uskoro će Europskoj komisiji biti upućeni zahtjevi za registraciju novih 10 naziva proizvoda koji su trenutno u postupku zaštite na nacionalnoj razini. − Zaštitom hrvatskih autohtonih proizvoda dajemo dodanu vrijednost našim vrhunskim domaćim proizvodima koji su jedinstveni u svijetu, a potrošačima

AŠTIĆEN •Z

Zaštićena oznaka izvornosti

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RNOSTI • VO

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Ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje Cres

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Neretvanska mandarina

Ogulinski kiseli kupus / Ogulinsko kiselo zelje

Krčko maslinovo ulje

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Šoltansko maslinovo ulje

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Paška janjetina

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Korčulansko maslinovo ulje

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Varaždinsko zelje

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Slavonski med

Zaštićena oznaka zemljopisnog podrijetla Krčki pršut

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Baranjski kulen

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Lički krumpir

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Drniški pršut

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Dalmatinski pršut

ZEMLJOPI S KA

O ENA ZNA IĆ

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• • ZAŠ LA T ET

Zaštićeni nazivi hrvatskih poljoprivrednih i prehrambenih proizvoda registrirani u Europskoj uniji ZNAKA IZ

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G PODRIJ NO

jamčimo iznimnu kvalitetu i originalan način njihove pripreme. Uživajte i dobar tek! − ističe hrvatski ministar poljoprivrede Tomislav Tolušić.

Na inicijativu Ministarstva poljoprivrede i Hrvatska pošta prigodno se uključila u promidžbu naših proizvoda s EU oznakama kvalitete, pa je tako 12. travnja 2018. izdala seriju poštanskih marki pod nazivom Hrvatski zaštićeni poljoprivredni i prehrambeni proizvodi s motivima Dalmatinskoga pršuta, Ekstra djevičanskoga maslinovog ulja Cres i Neretvanske mandarine.

Dalmatinski pršut

Poljički soparnik / Poljički zeljanik / Poljički uljenjak

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Zagorski puran

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Slavonski kulen / Slavonski kulin

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Međimursko meso ‘z tiblice

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Istarski pršut / Istrski pršut

Poljički soparnik / Poljički zeljanik / Poljički uljenjak

Varaždinsko zelje

OPG Ferbežar − Slavonski kulen / Slavonski kulin Vlado Ferbežar iz Otoka nedaleko od Vinkovaca nije običan slavonski svinjogojac. Osim što godišnje uzgoji oko 1500 fajferica (crnih slavonskih svinja) uz tradicionalnu recepturu i suvremenu tehnologiju, uz šunku, slaninu, kobasice i čvarke od 2015. godine do danas proizveo je ukupno 2298 komada Slavonskog kulena / Slavonskog kulina sa zaštićenom oznakom zemljopisnog podrijetla.

Na svojem gospodarstvu Ferbežari od 1998. svinje uzgajaju sukladno tradiciji u ekološkim uvjetima, u tzv. šokačkom stanu, na otvorenu zemljanom prostoru uz rub šume, no ograđenom radi zaštite i uz primjenu visokih higijenskih i tehnoloških kriterija. Usto, i potrebna se energija dobiva iz obnovljivih izvora, vjetrenjača i solarnih ploča.

Proizvodnjom kulena Ferbežar se bavi odmalena, uz obitelj koja ih je proizvodila za vlastite potrebe. Prije desetak godina krenuo je sa 3000 kulena; tržište je prepoznalo vrhunsku kakvoću pa sadašnju brojku od 10.000 ambiciozno planira podignuti na 50.000. Proizvodnja kulena za Ferbežara nije posao već strast stvaranja vrhunskog proizvoda u koji unosi tradicijski duh Slavonije.

Slavonski med

OPG Ranko Surjan − Korčulansko maslinovo ulje U Vela Luci, najmaslinarskijem mjestu na otoku Korčuli s više od 100.000 stabala, istoimena udruga maslinara, kojom predsjeda Ranko Surjan, dobila je zaštićenu oznaku izvornosti na razini EU-a za Korčulansko maslinovo ulje.

Karakteriziraju ga vrlo izražen miris po zelenom plodu i pikantnost, što ga svrstava među jedno od najspecifičnijih maslinovih ulja na svijetu.

Surjan je već 15 godina vlasnik obiteljskoga poljoprivrednog gospodarstva te i sam uspješno njeguje tradiciju svojih predaka u proizvodnji ekstra djevičanskoga maslinovog ulja od autohtonih sorti lastovke i drobnice.

Već treću godinu za redom OPG Ranko Surjan nosi certifikat za zaštićenu oznaku izvornosti Korčulansko maslinovo ulje.

U ljeto 2017. Surjan je svoj dječački san zaokružio otvaranjem kušaonice u jednoj od najstarijih velolučkih kamenih kuća. Uređena je u lokalnome tradicionalnom stilu, što je obogatilo i turističku ponudu toga velebnog otočnog mjesta. Izgradnju i opremanje ostvario je i uz europsku potporu za mala poljoprivredna gospodarstva preko LAG-a 5. Osim maslinovog ulja moguće je kušati i kupiti mnoštvo  prigodnih proizvoda OPG-a Surjan.

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Neretvanska mandarina

Istarski pršut / Istrski pršut

Europske oznake kvalitete − zaštićena oznaka izvornosti, zaštićena oznaka zemljopisnog podrijetla i zajamčeno tradicionalni specijalitet European Quality Labels − Protected Designation of Origin, Protected Geographical Indication, and Traditional Speciality Guaranteed

C

ountless autochthonous agricultural and food products can be found in the rich heritage the Republic of Croatia has nurtured and preserved successfully for centuries. They make up Croatia’s specific gastronomic identity, which has become, with the help of tourism, increasingly recognisable, even beyond its borders.

The local autochthonous product protection and branding project has gained momentum once Croatia joined the European Union in 2013, and once the Ministry of Agriculture

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of the Republic of Croatia decided to actively support all producer associations aiming to obtain one of the three EU quality labels, namely Protected Designation of Origin, Protected Geographical Indication, and Traditional Speciality Guaranteed.

The first Croatian product to have obtained the EU Protected Geographical Indication quality label was Krčki pršut (prosciutto) on 14th April 2015. By a decision passed by the Croatian Parliament, this date is observed as the Day of Protected Croatian Autochthonous Products, communicating to the general public the importance of preserving the tradition and branding of Croatia, given the strong market recognisability of EU quality labels. By June 2018, 19 autochthonous agricultural and food products obtained one of the three EU quality labels, placing Croatia ahead of many older member states, now ranking eleventh, together with Belgium and Slovakia.

At the moment, eight more products are in the process of registering for a Protected Designation of Origin or a Protected Geographical Indication label at EU level, and for some, the registration procedure is likely to be completed by the end of the year.

However, the Croatian success story does not stop here: 10 new product names, currently protected at national level, will soon be submitted to the European Commission for registration at EU level. − The protection of Croatian autochthonous products adds value to our top quality local products that are unique in the world, and guarantees consumers exceptional quality and original preparation methods. Enjoy and bon appétit! − says Croatian Minister of Agriculture, Tomislav Tolušić.

On the initiative of the Ministry of Agriculture, the Croatian Post has also joined the promotion of Croatian products bearing EU quality labels, by issuing on 12th April 2018 a series of postage stamps entitled Protected Croatian Agricultural and Food Products, including the themes of Dalmatinski pršut (prosciutto), Ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje Cres (extra virgin olive oil), and Neretvanska mandarina (mandarins).

Croatian agricultural and food product names protected and registered in the EU

Poljički uljenjak (Swiss chard pie) 

Zagorski puran (turkey)

Slavonski kulen / Slavonski kulin (kulen sausage) 

Protected Designation of Origin  Ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje Cres (olive oil) 

Neretvanska mandarina (mandarins)

 Ogulinski kiseli kupus / Ogulinsko kiselo zelje (sauerkraut) 

Istarski pršut / Istrski pršut (prosciutto)



Krčko maslinovo ulje (olive oil)



Šoltansko maslinovo ulje (olive oil)



Paška janjetina (lamb)



Korčulansko maslinovo ulje (olive oil)



Varaždinsko zelje (cabbage)



Slavonski med (honey)

Protected Geographical Indication 

Krčki pršut (prosciutto)



Baranjski kulen (kulen sausage)



Lički krumpir (potatoes)



Drniški pršut (prosciutto)



Dalmatinski pršut (prosciutto)



Poljički soparnik / Poljički zeljanik /

 Međimursko meso ‘z tiblice (pot preserved meat)

Ferbežar family farm − Slavonski kulen / Slavonski kulin Vlado Ferbežar from Otok near Vinkovci is not an average Slavonian pig farmer. In addition to breeding around 1,500 Black Slavonian pigs a year, and using a traditional recipe and modern technology to produce ham, bacon, sausages and cracklings, he has, since 2015, produced a total of 2,298 pieces of Protected Geographical Indication labelled Slavonski kulen / Slavonski kulin (kulen sausage).

On the Ferbežar farm, pigs have been bred since 1998 using traditional and organic methods of production, in a so-called šokački stan, an open-air piece of land near the woods enclosed for protection with high hygiene and technology standards applied. In addition, the energy required to run the farm is obtained from renewable sources of energy, such as windmills and solar panels.

Vlado Ferbežar has been involved in kulen production since his childhood − his family used to produce it for personal consumption. Some ten years ago, Ferbežar started out with 3,000 pieces of kulen, and, with the market having recognised its top quality, his ambition is to increase the current production volume from 10,000 to 50,000 pieces a year.

For Ferbežar, kulen sausage production is not a job, but a passion for creating top quality products imbued with the tradition-infused spirit of Slavonia.

Ranko Surjan family farm − Korčulansko maslinovo ulje

Slavonski kulen / Slavonski kulin

In Vela Luka, where the largest number of olive groves on the Island of Korčula can be found (with over 100,000 olive trees), the local association of olive growers presided

by Ranko Surjan has obtained the Protected Designation of Origin label at EU level for Korčula’s very own extra virgin olive oil called Korčulansko maslinovo ulje. It is characterised by a very pronounced fruity fragrance and pungency, making it one of the most specific olive oils in the world.

Surjan has been the owner of the family farm for over 15 years now, successfully nurturing

Lički krumpir

Korčulansko maslinovo ulje

his ancestors’ tradition of extra virgin olive oil production made from the autochthonous varieties of lastovka and drobnica. Ranko Surjan’s family farm has had a Protected Designation of Origin label for Korčula’s olive oil he produces for three years already.

In the summer of 2017, Surjan fulfilled his childhood dream of opening a tasting shop in one of the oldest stone houses in Vela Luka. This traditionally set up tasting shop has enriched the tourist offer of this magnificent insular town. Both the construction and furnishing were funded by European Network of Rural Development grants for small farms through LAG (Local Action Group) 5. Besides their olive oil, the Surjan family farm and tasting shop also offer a number of other  autochthonous products.

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Hrvatska priča o smokvi Croatian Fig Story

Dida Boža priča o životu, djelu i stvaralaštvu obiteljske tradicije iz Dalmacije koja se razvila u ekološku proizvodnju džemova od smokava i ostalih delikatesa bogatih okusa po najvišim ekološkim standardima.

Dida Boža, is a story about life, work and love for Dalmatian land.

It is a story of a family fig production tradition, and a brand is inspired by a real person – grandfather of the owner of the company.

D

ida Boža je stvarna osoba iz Vodica, djed vlasnika tvrtke i cijeli život je radio na zemlji, uzgajao smokve i masline. Danas se proizvodnja odvija u strogo kontroliranim pogonima pri čemu se svaka ekološki uzgojena smokva ručno otvara i kontrolira, a sve kako bi džem zadržao vrsnu kvalitetu. Visok udio ekološki uzgojenog voća te ručno branih plodova daje džemovima punu i osobitu aromu.

Dalmatia Spreads brand u SADu

Džemovi godinama osvajaju zlatna odličja za izvrsnost, među kojima su nagrade na prestižnom međunarodnom sajmu gurmanske hrane Fancy Food Show u SADu koji okuplja više od 50.000 proizvođača i profesionalaca iz prehrambene industrije diljem svijeta. Pod brandom Dalmatia Spreads, ove delikatese se godišnje izvoze u trgovine širom Sjedinjenih američkih država, Kanade i Europske unije. Proizvodi obuhvaćaju širok asortiman, te okupljaju najbolje od hrvatskih okusa i na Vaš stol donose sve veći broj zdravih, gurmanskih, te jedinstveno netipičnih delicija.

Posjetite Dida Boža Gift Shopove: Visit Dida Boža Gift Shops: Zagreb: Radićeva 12 Šibenik: Mesarske stube 2 Vodice: Kamila Pamukovića 15 52 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

Born in Dalmatia, Dida Boža devoted his entire life to growing figs and olives. Today, the production is maintained in accordance to the highest standards, while each fig is being hand-picked and inspected in order to assure the superior quality of the spreads. Dida Boža products contain high percentage of organically grown fruit, providing full flavour and unique aroma.

Dalmatia Spreads in the U.S.

Fig is queen among the mediterranean fruit and as such it dominates Dida Boža product portfolio. The spreads have since received a vast aray of awards, such as the Gold Medal Awards at Fancy Food Show in the United States attened by over 50.000 food producers across the globe. In the United States and Canada, the products are being branded as Dalmatia Spreads and sell in all major delicacy stores, such as Whole Foods.

Thank you grandpa!

Dida Boža’s grandson

Organic spreads and traditional delicacies for a perfect Croatian Gift! www.didaboza.hr Best Price Guarantee! NEW! Order On-line, deliveries within E.U.

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INOVACIJE INNOVATIONS

Putovati i živjeti od putovanja mnogima je san. Naš suradnik imao je priliku testirati novi model električnog bicikla koji se proizvodi u Svetoj Nedelji te je u mjesec dana prešao više do 3000 kilometara, kroz nestvarno lijepu prirodu, od juga do sjevera Norveške. A zrakoplovom Croatia Airlinesa možete do Osla doletjeti iz Zagreba, od početka svibnja do kraja listopada.

To many, travelling and making a living from travelling is a dream. Our associate had the opportunity to test ride a new model of an electric bike produced in Sveta Nedelja. He travelled for a month, having crossed over 3,000 kilometres, journeying through the surreal beauty of Norway, from south to north. You can fly from Oslo to Zagreb with Croatia Airlines between the beginning of May and the end of October.

Piše/By _ Hrvoje Jurić

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Fotografije/Photos _ Siniša Glogoški

01 Trollstigen, jedna od najpoznatijih turističkih cesta Norveške Trollstigen, one of the most famous tourist roads of Norway 02 Greyp G12H, novi model električnog bicikla iz tvornice Mate Rimca Greyp G12H, a new model of electric bike from the factory of Mate Rimac

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utovati i živjeti od putovanja mnogima je tek san, a kad su vaši partneri tvrtke poput Greyp Bikes (sestrinske tvrtke Rimac Automobila), sve je još i bolje. Imao sam priliku testirati Greyp G12H, novi model električnog bicikla koji se proizvodi u Svetoj Nedelji, u radionici hrvatskog inovatora Mate Rimca, i mogao sam birati kamo te koliko dugo želim putovati. S obzirom na to da već imam iskustva sa sjeverom, odlučio sam se za Norvešku, nakon Hrvatske najljepšu zemlju u kojoj sam boravio. Greyp je električni bicikl koji doseže brzinu od 45 km/h s autonomijom od više od 200 kilometara s jednim punjenjem. Možete koristiti pedale, čime smanjujete potrošnju baterije, a možete ga jednostavno voziti samo na struju. U mjesec dana putovanja prešao sam više od 3000 kilometara uglavnom lijepe ceste, s mnogo uspona i prekrasnih krajolika.

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Od juga prema sjeveru Jeste li ikada putovali bez plana, bez ikakve ideje kamo vas nepoznata cesta može odvesti dok klizite kroz nestvarno lijepu prirodu i svako se malo zaustavite kako biste fotoaparatom zabilježili trenutak?

Upravo je takav bio svaki dan u Norveškoj, bez obzira na neprestan vjetar, kišu i namrgođene oblake, skupu i ne toliko kvalitetnu kavu. Od početka putovanja u Lindesnesu, koji je ujedno i najjužnija točka Norveške, odlučili smo da na ovom putovanju nervozi i lošoj vibri nema mjesta. Tomu su svakako pridonijeli i Norvežani, predivni ljudi koji su sa zanimanjem gledali na kakvu se to stroju vozim kroz njihova mjesta. Gdje god bih stao, Greyp bi odmah plijenio pažnju znatiželjnika, čak i u ruralnim područjima prema unutrašnjosti, dok sam vozio prema Lysebotnu, naselju koje se smjestilo na samom kraju prekrasnoga Lysefjorda. Ako ne putujete trajektom, jedini je put do ovo-

02

ga naselja serpetinska cesta Suleskavegen, koja vodi preko prijevoja visokog 932 metra. Iako sam za realizaciju projekta birao ljetno vrijeme, na vrhu nas je dočekalo (ne)ugodno iznenađenje − samo nekoliko stupnjeva iznad nule, inje na rukavicama i magla koja je ponegdje prelazila u susnježicu. Morao sam dobro uskladiti vožnju uzimajući u obzir bateriju, ali i vremenske uvjete koji su nas zaustavili u penjanju do Kjeragboltena i Kjeragfossena.

Trollstigen (Trolova cesta) Na 300 kilometara ceste koja vijuga po fjordovima i planinama nalaze se mnoge turističke i prirodne atrakcije. Jedna od njih je i strmac Preikestolen koji se nalazi na drugoj strani Lysefjorda, do kojega se dolazi planinarskom stazom dugom četiri kilometra (dva sata).

Međutim, poslastica ove dionice zasigurno je Trollstigen (županijska cesta 63), cesta koja spaja gradić Åndalsnes i naselje Valldal. Vrh ovog prijevoja nalazi se na nešto manje od 700 metara nadmorske visine i sastoji se od jedanaest serpentina (sa sjeverne strane) i 10 posto uspona u pet kilometara ceste. Obično se zatvara krajem listopada, što također ovisi o vremenskim prilikama. Zimi je zatvorena i otvara se sredinom svibnja tako da se ogromnim bagerima snijeg gura u stranu i imate osjećaj kao da se vozite kroz snježni labirint.

Atlanterhavsveien definitivno spada u kategoriju najljepših cesta kojima sam vozio. Sama ideja čini se na prvu pomalo ludom − povezati nekoliko otoka cestom na jednom od najopasnijih obalnih pojasa Norveške (Hustadvika) u dužini od otprilike 8 kilometara (točnije 8,3) i to s osam mostova. Najduži, a ujedno i najpoznatiji

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jest Storseisundet, most dug 260 metara i vrlo neobična izgleda. Samo sam se njime provezao više od 30 puta kako bismo dronom uhvatili nekoliko savršenih kadrova.

Prvotni je plan bio otoke povezati željeznicom, no dobrim dijelom zbog loše povezanosti s ostatkom pruge, ali i velikih troškova, ipak je odlučeno da se gradi normalna cesta. Radovi su počeli sredinom 1983., a cesta je otvorena sredinom 1989. godine. Ukupni troškovi iznosili su oko 122 milijuna norveških kruna, od čega se 25 posto planiralo prikupiti cestarinom, a ostatak javnim donacijama, državnim potporama i sl. Zanimljiv je podatak da su sredstva od cestarina prikupljena u samo 10 godina, umjesto u planiranih 15, a od tada sva vozila imaju slobodan prolaz.

01 Testiranje po svim vremenskim uvjetima i cestama pruža nezaboravno zadovoljstvo Test riding in all weather conditions and roads brings enormous satisfaction 02 Divljina i nenaseljenost glavni su aduti otoka Magerøya Wilderness and uninhabitedness are the trump card of the Island of Magerøya

Na sjever i još sjevernije Norveška obala najrazvedenija je i najnepristupačnija obala na svijetu i dom 02

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je mnogih fjordova (Sognefjord, dug 204 kilometara, drugi je fjord na svijetu po duljini). Veći dio stanovništva boravi u južnom dijelu zemlje, a sjever je rijetko naseljen i prirodno je stanište mnogih životinjskih vrsta poput sobova, lisica, ali i bakalara i lososa. Na vrhu nekih fjordova još se uvijek nalaze farme koje su, osim što se ondje proizvodi mlijeko, postale i turistička atrakcija. Norvežani ulažu ogromna sredstva kako bi očuvali tradiciju koju njeguju još od vremena Vikinga, pa tako sve više mladih obitelji odlazi na selo, bježeći iz gradske džungle i užurbanog života.

U Norveškoj ćete naići na nekoliko najsjevernijih gradova, najsjevernijih (kopnenih) točaka, i svi redovito ubiru novac od turista. Najpoznatiji od njih je Nordkapp (Nordkáhppa, krajnji sjever Skandinavskog poluotoka, rt koji se izdiže 307 metara iznad mora). Iako je Kinnarodden 1800 metara sjevernije, Nordkapp je, vrlo vjerojatno zbog svoje

pristupačnosti, poznat kao najsjevernija kopnena točka, moglo bi se reći najsjevernija turistička točka Europe.

Nordkapp se nalazi na otoku Magerøya, koji je s kopnom povezan tunelom (Nordkapptunnelen) dugim sedam kilometara te koji se proteže 212 metara ispod površine mora.

Spust od devet posto, dug otprilike tri i pol kilometra, prava je adrenalinska injekcija, osobito ako se spuštate biciklom koji na sebi ima pedesetak kilograma tereta. No kad se spustite na 212 metara ispod površine mora (najdublje točke tunela), počinje uspon koji će i najtvrdokornije bicikliste natjerati na guranje bicikla. Uz Nordkapptunnelen sagrađen je i Honningsvågtunnelen, tunel koji vodi ravno do najsjevernijega grada u Norveškoj. Uz Honningsvåg, kao jedini grad na otoku, ondje se nalaze i četiri ribarska naselja (Gjesv≥r, Skarsvåg, Nordvågen i Kamøyv≥r) koji uz ribarstvo sve više žive i od turizma.

Reine Slika s razglednice − to mi je bila prva misao kada se, nakon što sam se popeo na brdašce, preda mnom prostro pogled na Reine. Malo ribarsko naselje, s prepoznatljivim crvenim kućicama na dokovima, jedno je od najljepših mjesta na cijelom otočju. Neki od svjetski poznatih časopisa Reine su čak proglasili najljepšim mjestom na svijetu. Najprivlačniji je pogled na naselje, a ujedno i cijeli Reinfjord, zasigurno s Reinbringena, planine visoke 450 metara koja se izdiže iz mora.

Iako Reine u svim godišnjim dobima ima svoju čar, najljepša je za vrijeme zime, kada je moguće gotovo svakodnevno vidjeti polarnu svjetlost.

03 Jedina cesta koja vodi prema Lysebotnu, naselju na kraju Lysefjorda The only road leading to Lysebotn, a village at the end of Lysefjord

Cijela Norveška kao nacionalni park Kad putujete biciklom, ne projurite mjestom kroz koje prolazite, a opet, krećete se. Bicikl, stoga, pruža savršenu kombinaciju putovanja svijetom, a da pritom nešto i vidite. Norveška je posebna priča.

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01 Cesta Atlanterhavsveien povezuje 11 manjih otoka Atlantic Ocean Road (Atlanterhavsveien) interconnects 11 smaller islands 02 Beskrajne ceste na kojima udaljenost između naselja iznosi i više od 100 kilometara Endless roads where the distance between villages and towns exceeds 100 kilometres

Putujući njome imate osjećaj kao da je cijela zemlja ogroman nacionalni park u kojemu se ljudi sa strahopoštovanjem odnose prema prirodi. Po onome što sam vidio tijekom tri višemjesečna putovanja Norveškom, po suncu, kiši, ledu i temperaturi koja se katkad spustila i do minus 20 stupnjeva, ona je savršen primjer toga kako bi čovjek trebao brinuti o svojem okolišu, a Greyp je kao šlag na torti − prijevozno sredstvo koje uopće ne zagađuje okoliš. Gdje god bih se zaustavio, u gradu ili najzabačenijim dijelovima Norveške, uvijek bi naišao netko u kome bi dizajn Greypa, njegova robusnost i startnost pobudili zainteresiranost. I to je jedna od čari posla kojime se bavim: prenositi iskustvo nove tehnologije, promicati zdrav život i čuvanje prirode u kojoj živimo. 

T

o many, travelling and making a living from travelling is just a dream, and when you partner up with a company such as Greyp Bikes (Rimac Automobili’s sister company), things are only better. I had the opportunity to test ride the Greyp G12H, a new model of an electric bike produced in Sveta Nedelja at the workshop of the Croatian innovator 02

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Mate Rimac, and I could choose where and how long I wanted to travel. Since I already have experience with the north, I chose Norway, the second most beautiful country (after Croatia) I’ve ever stayed in.

Greyp is an electric bike reaching a speed of 45 km/h with a range exceeding 200 kilometres on a single battery charge. You can either pedal it, which reduces battery consumption, or ride it like an electric motorcycle. I travelled for a month, having crossed over 3,000 kilometres of mostly beautiful roads with many climbs and stunning landscapes.

From south to north Have you ever travelled without a plan, without any idea where an unfamiliar road could take you while you’re gliding through unbelievably beautiful nature and when you stop every now and then to capture the moment on camera? Every day of my journey through Norway was like this, regardless of the relentless wind, rain and frowning clouds, and expensive and not so good quality coffee. We started out in Lindesnes, the southernmost point of Norway, where we’ve decided that, on this journey, there’s no room for nervousness

A collection of our finest hotels, all with unique locations. Indulge in our sumptuous spa, take in the art on display, or just relax in our elegant rooms. Taste fine cuisine in our gourmet restaurants, enjoy our signature breakfast, and make the most of our personalised sports and relaxation activities. Together with our Bluescape, Greenscape or Townscape programme of experiences, you will feel truly reborn.

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and bad vibes. This was contributed to by Norwegians, wonderful people who took an interest in the vehicle I was riding on through their towns. Wherever I stopped, Greyp would immediately arouse the attention of curious bystanders, even in Norway’s rural inland regions on my way to Lysebotn, a village located at the very end of the stunning Lysefjord. Lysebotn can be reached by ferry or the Suleskavegen serpentine road passing through a 932-metre high mountain pass. Although I did choose summer for this adventure project, an un/ pleasant surprise awaited once we reached the top − only a few degrees above zero, frost on my cycling gloves, and fog that turned into sleet at times. I had to fine-tune my ride taking account of not only the battery, but also the weather conditions that stopped us from climbing up to Kjeragbolten Boulder and Kjeragfossen Waterfall.

Trollstigen or Troll’s Road The 300-kilometre long road winding

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through Norway’s fjords and mountains is spotted with many tourist and natural attractions. One of them is the Pulpit Rock (Preikestolen) lying on the other side of Lysefjord, which is reachable by a four-kilometre long hiking trail that takes two hours.

However, the absolute highlight of this leg was Trollstigen or Troll’s Road (County Road 63), a road connecting the town of Åndalsnes and the village of Valldal. This mountain pass peaks at slightly less than

01 Nordkapp je najsjevernija turistička kopnena točka Europe koju godišnje posjeti i nekoliko stotina tisuća turista Nordkapp is the northernmost tourist point of mainland Europe visited annually by a few hundred thousand tourists 02 − 03 Norveška je poput velikog nacionalnog parka − idealna za aktivnosti na otvorenome, bicikliste, planinare i općenito ljude koji najviše borave u prirodi Norway is like a giant national park − ideal for outdoor activities, cyclists, mountaineers and people in general who spend most of their time outdoors

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01 U Norveškoj možete kampirati gdje god želite, ali strogi zakoni nalažu da za sobom mjesto ostavite u prvobitnom stanju In Norway, you can camp wherever you want, but strict laws require that you to leave your campsite as it was prior to camping

700 metres above sea level and consists of eleven serpentines (to the north), with each five-kilometre long leg ascending 10 percent. It usually gets closed at the end of October, which also depends on weather conditions. It remains closed during the winter and opens in mid-May, when huge snow ploughs shovel snow aside making it seem like you’re driving through a snow maze.

Atlantic Ocean Road (Atlanterhavsveien) is definitely amongst the most beautiful roads I’ve ever been on. The idea itself may seem somewhat insane at first − to interconnect several islands with an 8.3-kilometre long road in one of the most dangerous coastline sections in Norway (Hustadvik) including eight bridges. The longest and most famous is the 260-metre long Storseisundet Bridge of a very unusual design. I crossed it over 30 times so that we could catch a few perfect shots by drone.

The Norwegians’ initial plan was to interconnect the islands with a train line, but it was decided that building a standard road was a more prudent choice, and this mostly due to the planned railroad’s poor con-

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nections with the rest of the railroad, but also due to high costs. Construction began in mid-1983 and the road was opened in mid-1989. Total costs amounted to some 122 million Norwegian krone, of which 25% was to be collected through toll payments, and the rest through public donations, state subsidies, etc. It’s interesting to note that the amount that was to be collected through toll payments was collected within a period of 10 years instead of the planned 15, and that the road has been toll-free for all vehicles ever since.

To the north and further up north The Norwegian coastline is the most indented and most inaccessible coastline in the world, and is home to many fjords (the 204-km long Sognefjord is the second longest fjord in the world). Most of the population live in the southern parts of the country, while the north is sparsely populated and is a natural habitat for many animal species, such as reindeer, foxes, codfish and salmon.

Some fjords are still home to farms that not only produce milk, but are also a tourist attraction. The Norwegians invest enormous resources in preserving the tradition that they have been nurturing ever since the time of the Vikings, and so an increasing number of young families have been moving to the countryside, fleeing from the urban jungle and a hurried lifestyle.

Norway is also home to some of the northernmost towns, the northernmost (land) points, and they all collect money from tourists. The most famous is Nordkapp (Nordkáhppa, the northernmost point of Europe or the North Cape of the Scandinavian Peninsula, rising 307 metres above sea level). Although Kinnarodden extends 1,800 metres further north, Nordkapp is, probably due to its accessibility, known as the northernmost point of mainland Europe, and a tourist one at that. Nordkapp is situated on the island of Magerøya, connected to the mainland by the sevenkilometre long and 212-metre deep North Cape Tunnel (Nordkapptunnelen).

The tunnel’s nine percent downslope extending over some three and a half kilometres gives you a real adrenaline rush, especially if you descend on a bike carrying some fifty kilograms of load. But once you descend to 212 metres below sea level (which is the deepest point of the tunnel), the tunnel’s ascent starts which is bound to make even the toughest cyclists get off and

push their bicycle. Besides the North Cape Tunnel, there’s also Honningsvåg Tunnel, which leads directly to the northernmost town in Norway. Besides Honningsvåg, the only town on the island, there are four fishing villages (Gjesv≥r, Skarsvåg, Nordvågen and Kamøyv≥r), which have been living off not only fishing, but tourism as well.

Reine A postcard picture − was the first thought that occurred to me when, having climbed up a hill, a view of Reine stretched before me. A small fishing village with typical red houses on the waterfront is one of the most beautiful places on the entire Lofoten Archipelago. The village of Reine was declared to be the most beautiful place in the world even by a number of world-famous magazines. The most stunning view of the village and the entire Reinefjord stretches from Reinebringen, a 450-metre high mountain rising from the sea. Although Reine is magical in all seasons, it is most amazing during the winter when Northern Lights can be taken pleasure in almost daily.

The whole of Norway as a national park When travelling by bicycle, you don’t just whizz through places that you’re travelling through, and yet, you’re on the move. This makes cycling the perfect way to travel the world and see things while travelling.

Norway is a special story. Passing through it, you have the feeling that the entire country is a giant national park where people relate to nature with awe. Judging from what I’ve seen during my three separate many-month long travels through Norway − and this, regardless of whether the sun was shining, whether it was raining, whether the land was covered in ice or whether the temperature dropped to minus 20 degrees − I can say that Norway is a perfect example of how people should care for the environment. Greyp is just a cherry on top − a means of transport that doesn’t pollute the environment at all. Wherever I stopped, whether in a city or in the most remote parts of Norway, I’d always come across someone fascinated by Greyp’s design, its robustness and startability. And this is one of the pluses of what I do for a living − communicating my experience with new technologies, and promoting healthy lifestyles and the preservation of the nature  we live in.

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NAŠA ODREDIŠTA OUR DESTINATIONS

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Piše/By _ Dubravka Belas

Mostar, čuvar mosta, varoš s mostom, ime je koje se prvi put spominje prije pet i pol stoljeća. I danas, kao svih proteklih stoljeća, ima junake, stasite mladiće koji ludom smjelošću skaču s najviše točke luka Staroga mosta u bezdan nad ledenom Neretvom. Ima svoje učenjake, pisce i pjesnike, svoje priče i legende, nadaleko poznati humor... On neprestano miri svoje različitosti.

Mostar, a bridge keeper, a town with a bridge, is a name first mentioned five and a half centuries ago.

Even today, much like during the past centuries, it has its heroes, able-bodied young men, who make an insanely bold step by jumping off the highest point of the arch of the Old Bridge into the chasm over the ice-cold Neretva River. It has its scholars, writers and poets, its tales and legends, its widely known sense of humour... This is a town that has been reconciling its differences unremittingly.

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ma jedna modra rijeka. Široka je, duboka je, sto godina široka je, tisuć’ ljeta duboka jest, o duljini i ne sanjaj...

Valja nama preko rijeke, zapisao je pjesnik Mak Dizdar.

Priča o gradu Mostaru počinje od rijeke.

Neretve. Prosijeca ta prozirna tirkizna ljepotica udolinu zagrljenu surim stjenovitim planinama, Veležom i Prenjom. I upravo na mjestu gdje se križaju stari putovi, gdje se bosanskohercegovački gorski lijevak otvara prema moru i upućuje kanjonsku Neretvu dalje kroz krš na mjesto gdje će se jednom moći širiti po miloj volji u prostranu, plodnu deltu, osmanlijski su osvajači podignuli utvrđeni grad. Zatekli su ondje naselje od 19 kuća s visećim drvenim mostom na željeznim lancima, debljine ljudskoga stegna, zapisano je, razapetim između isturenih stijena dviju obala.

Isprva sjedište osvajača, turskih ratnika askera, polako se razvio u trgovište s čaršijom i stambenim četvrtima − mahalama. Viseći je most s vremenom postao nedostatan, iako se pretpostavlja da su se tereti prenosili i sustavom žičare između nasuprotnih kula Halebije i Tare.

Svemoćni je osmanlijski vladar Sulejman Veličanstveni tada poslao svojeg mimara Hajrudina da sagradi jedan od najljepših i najsmjelijih mostova svojega carstva.

Putopisac Evlija Ćelebija o njegovoj će božanskoj statici zapisati: Prošao sam 16 carevina al’ ne vidjeh tako raskošnoga mosta, hvaleći ga dalje da izgleda kao lûk duge uzdignut do Kumove slame.

Sazdan od plemenita vapnenca tenelije znalačkim rukama najvještijih dubrovačkih klesara, sa svojih je trideset metara raspona bio najveća onodobna lučna konstrukcija na svijetu i najzahtjevniji graditeljski pothvat. Svojevrsni model za Stari most bila je, navodno, nedaleka

Arhiva Večernjeg lista BH / BH Večernji list archives

01 Stari most − pogled s Lučkog mosta The Old Bridge − a view from Lučki Bridge 02 Suveniri − orijentalne rukotvorine od bakra Souvenirs − oriental handcrafted copperware 03 Gimnazija Mostar Mostar Grammar School

04 Kujundžiluk − stari dio grada Kujundžiluk − the old part of town 03

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Raskošni rukom slagani stakleni mozaici tradicionalnih svjetiljki Gorgeous handcrafted glass mosaics on traditional lamps

Kriva Ćuprija, ljepotica prebačena preko Radobolje, još jedne mostarske rijeke, s istim takvim napetim lukom, samo u umanjenome mjerilu. Kako bilo, taj je vitak i profinjen kameni polumjesec, s natpisom Kudret Kemeri − snaga svoda, svod božje moći, koji odrazom u ledenoj Neretvi zatvara zamišljeni životni krug, već stoljećima najpoznatija i najljepša, nezaobilazna gradska vizura.

Nobelovac Ivo Andrić spominje i osobitu mostarsku svjetlost koja sve prožima, koja pruža ljubav za život, hrabrost i vedrinu kakvu susrećemo u licima mladića i djevojaka u večernjoj šetnji. Ta se svjetlost, pisao je, prelama kao zlatan, nemiran odbljesak u čaši mostarskoga zlatnog vina, žilavke, živi kao sabijena snaga i slast mostarskih trešnji i breskvi i krije se u sjenovitoj, hladnoj vodi mostarskih rijeka.

Grad s najtoplijim ljetima nadaleko, udaljen šezdesetak kilometara od mora, zimi opsjedaju kiše slijevajući se niz blještave kamene ploče na krovovima stare čaršije.

Zato su ostala godišnja doba prepuna sunčanih dana punih mirisa mostarskih bašti, jasmina i ruža, popločanih sjenovitih i hladovitih avlija, tako korisnih kad je ljuto hercegovačko sunce u zenitu. To je grad cvijeća, slatkoga grožđa na odrinama, marelica boje zalaska sunca, rajskih smokava, sočnih starinskih trešanja

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mostarki, aslama i karaslama, slasnih narova, lubenica i dinja hlađenih u rijekama, kestena koji s jeseni preplave grad.

Grad je to rijeka koje hipnotički protječu i hlade, grad vrućih oblutaka kaldrme, crkvenih zvonika, kamene čipke džamija, glatkih kupola i vitkih kopalja minareta, grad razigranog pjeva ptica i melankolije sevdaha. On neprestano miri svoje različitosti − ljupko, odmjereno tursko nasljeđe čardaka koji se smjelo nadvijaju nad modrim rijekama, ostakljenih ćošaka iza čijih se prozora promišlja ili tek promatra vanjski svijet; on spaja svoje austrougarske palače, istodobno raskošne i stroge, s modernim, tek izgrađenim kubusima.

Iskrižan je uskim sokacima i širokim, svijetlim drvoredima platana i mirisnih lipa. Čistom ljepotom Mostar uporno prekriva ožiljke, polako obnavljajući jedinstvenu baštinu, čudesan sraz Orijenta i Okcidenta, zacjeljujući i Stari most i pokidane veze među ljudima. Ponad grada iz padine izrasta raskošna ostavština arhitekta Bogdana Bogdanovića, spomenik posvećen svakom trećem građaninu Mostara, smjeloj trećini koja se u II. svjetskom ratu otputila boriti protiv fašizma, i tragičnoj trećini te trećine, ponajviše mladih, koja se nikad iz te borbe nije vratila.

U bližoj i daljoj okolici Mostara još je mnogo lokaliteta koji se jednostavno ne smiju propustiti − jedan od njih je vodopad Kravica na sadronosnoj rječici Trebižat, egzotičan smaragdni amfiteatar promjera 120 metara u koji se s visine od

30 metara u jezero stvoreno za osvježavajuće kupanje slijevaju brojni slapovi niz zelene kulise od trava, algi i mahovine.

Nezaobilazno je i vrelo Bune u blizini Blagaja, jedan od najljepših izvora u Europi.

Ispod dramatične, dvije stotine metara visoke okomite klisure u čijim se vrhovima gnijezde orlovi, u svakoj sekundi silovito izvire više od 40 tisuća litara kristalno čiste, tamne, modrozelene vode. Tu je i mistična tekija iz ranoga turskog doba u kojoj se već gotovo šest stotina godina okupljaju derviši. Ponad izvora brijeg je Buturovica, s pješačkom stazom do ostataka velebnoga srednjevjekovnog, nazubljenim bedemima utvrđenoga grada hercega Stjepana. Nije daleko ni pretpovijesna megalitska citadela Daorson, Počitelj sa svojom utvrdom, Stolac i paleolitske gravure u pećini Badanj, nekropola Radimlja s ilirskim tumulusima te 133 kamena i nikad do kraja istražena stećka, hodočasničko Međugorje...

Grad Mostar otvara pogledima svoje zidine i kapije, svoje česme i šedrvane, svoje hanove i hamame. Svoj glasoviti Kujundžiluk, nazvan po nekad najbrojnijim zlatarskim radionicama.

Tu su i ulične kavane s najljepšim vedutama, glasoviti mostarski dućani u kojima se, kao nekad, tkaju šareni ćilimi, vezu rukotvorine, kuckaju bakreni ibrici i džezve, rezbare šesterokutni peškuni, stolići za kojima valja kušati hrskave i istodobno sočne sirnice, šećerne lokume, prozirne ratluke od ruža, baklave i tufahije, hurmašice, sve te lijene pite i istočnjačke delicije prelivene cvjetnim sirupima. Valja udisati opojne pare guste, bosanske kahve iz fildžana, malenih šalica bez drški, koje zato valja grliti dlanovima. Baš kao i ovaj bajkoviti grad, stražar vremena, rijeka i mostova sazdanih od srebrnih kapi mjesečeva mlijeka.

Doletite u Mostar! Zrakoplovi Croatia Airlinesa povezuju Zagreb i Mostar od  svibnja do kraja listopada.

T

here is a blue river. It is wide and deep, one hundred years wide it is, one thousand years deep it is, do not dream about its length... We ought to cross the river, once wrote the poet Mak Dizdar.

The story of the town of Mostar begins with a river. The Neretva River. This clear turquoise beauty cuts into a hollow embraced by two rugged mountains, Velež and Prenj.

And exactly at the point where ancient

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CENTRAL EUROPE’S LARGEST TRAVEL TRADE EVENT The City of Zagreb supports The Central European Tourism Summit and we look forward to welcoming our friends and colleagues to our beautiful city.

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D. Fabijanić

Glasoviti Kujundžiluk, nazvan po nekad najbrojnijim zlatarskim radionicama, s kulom Tarom u pozadini The famous Kujundžiluk, named after the countless goldsmiths that once had workshops there, with the Tower of Tara in the background

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roads intersect, where the Bosnian and Herzegovinian mountainous funnel opens to the sea seeing the canyon of Neretva off through karst to a place where it can spread out as much as it possibly can into a spacious, fertile estuary, the Ottoman conquerors had erected a fortified city.

What they had found there was a village of 19 houses with a wooden suspension bridge suspended using iron chains, which were, it is claimed, as thick as a human thigh, between the protruding rocks of the two river banks.

Initially the headquarters of the conquerors, Turkish warriors, it gradually developed into a market town with a bazaar and residential

quarters known as mahalas. Over time, the suspension bridge became insufficient, although it is assumed that goods were also transported across the river by a cable car system of sorts between the towers of Halebija and Tara, each on its side of the river.

The all-powerful Ottoman ruler, Suleiman the Magnificent, then dispatched his architect Hayrudin to build one of the most beautiful and boldest bridges of his empire.

The travel writer Evliya Celebi penned the following about its divine statics: I have crossed 16 empires, and nowhere have I seen such a splendid bridge. He then continues praising it by claiming that it resembles the arch of a rainbow ascending to the Milky Way. Made of the precious tenelija limestone and built by the knowing hands of the most skilled Dubrovnik-based stonemasons, it was, with its thirty-metre span, the largest arch construction in the world and a most challenging architectural endeavour at the time. The Old Bridge was allegedly modelled on the nearby Kriva Ćuprija or Crooked Bridge, a beauty bridging the banks of the Radobolja River, another one of Mostar’s rivers, whose arch is just as curved, but is, as a whole, smaller in scale.

Regardless, this slender and sophisticated stone crescent − bearing the inscription Kudret Kemeri − the power of the celestial vault, the vault of divine power, and its reflection in the ice-cold Neretva rounding off the abstract circle of life − has for centuries been the most famous and most stunning, must-see city attraction.

The Nobel Prize winner Ivo Andrić mentions, amongst other things, the remarkable, all-pervasive quality of light in Mostar, which supplies a love of life, courage and cheerfulness showing in the faces of young men and women during an evening stroll. This light, he writes, breaks like a golden, restless reflection in a glass of Mostar’s golden wine, žilavka, lives like the condensed strength and sweetness of Mostar’s cherries and peaches, and hides in the shady, cold waters of Mostar’s rivers. The town with the warmest summers by far, some sixty kilometres from the sea, is in winter besieged by rain pouring down the glittering stone slabs on the rooftops in the old bazaar. By contrast, the other seasons abound in sunny days fragranced

by Mostar’s gardens, the scents of jasmine and rose, paved shady and cooler yards,

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Fly to Dubrovnik

t +385 20 773 100 f +385 20 773 322 e info@airport-dubrovnik.hr w www.airport-dubrovnik.hr 74 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

D. Fabijanić

This is a town of rivers that flow hypnotically cooling it off, a town of scorching cobblestones, of church bells, of the stone lace of mosques, of the smooth domes and the slender, needle-like structure of minarets, a town of the playful singing of birds and of the melancholy of sevdah (a traditional genre of folk music from Bosnia). This is a town that has been reconciling its differences unremittingly − the charming, wellmeasured Turkish legacy of blockhouses called čardaks that boldly lean over the blue rivers, of glazed corners behind the windows of which its residents either contemplate or just gaze at the outside world; it blends its Austro-Hungarian palaces, luxurious yet austere, with its modern-day cube-like houses. It is intercrossed with narrow alleys known as sokaks, and broad and bright rows of sycamore and fragrant linden trees. It is with pure beauty that Mostar hides its scars persistently, slowly restoring its inimitable heritage, a wondrous place where East meets West, healing the Old Bridge and the severed ties between people. The magnificent legacy of architect Bogdan Bogdanović, a monument

Mostar je iskrižan uskim sokacima među kojima osobito plijene pažnju vrući obluci kaldrme Mostar is intercrossed with narrow alleys known as sokaks with scorching cobblestone walkways attracting particular attention

which are so very useful when the raving Herzegovinian sun reaches its zenith. It is a town of flowers, of sweet grapes entwined around trellises, of sunset-coloured apricots, of heavenly figs, of old varieties of succulent black and red cherries, of sweet pomegranates, watermelons and melons cooled in rivers, of chestnuts flooding the town in autumn.

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dedicated to every third resident of Mostar, rises from a slope above town. This was a brave third that set out during World War II to fight against fascism, and the tragic third of this third, most of whom were in their youth, that never returned from this fight.

In both the immediate and more distant surroundings of Mostar, there are many attractions that are certainly not to be missed. One of them is the Kravica Waterfall on the tufa-filled Trebižat River, an exotic emerald amphitheatre 120 metres in diameter, forming a lake of sorts perfect for going for a refreshing plunge, into which many waterfalls cascade against a green backdrop of grass, algae and moss from a height of 30 metres. The Buna Spring near Blagaj, one of the most beautiful springs in Europe, is an absolute must-see. Below a dramatic, two hundred-metre high vertical gorge, at the summit of which eagles nest, over 40,000 litres of crystal clear, dark greenish-blue water wells in torrents every second. There is also the mystical tekke (a Dervish lodge and/or place of worship) from the early Ottoman period, where Dervishes have been gathering for almost six hundred years. The Buturovica Hill lies above the Buna Spring with a mountain trail leading to the remains of Grand Duke Stjepan’s magnificent medieval town fortified with a crenellated parapet wall. Not far from here, be sure to also visit the Daorson prehistoric megalithic citadel, Počitelj and its fortress, Stolac and the Palaeolithic rock carvings in the Badanj Cave, the Radimlja necropolis with Illyrian tumuli and the 133

never fully explored stećak tombstones, the Međugorje pilgrimage site...

The town opens its gates and gateways, its drinking water fountains called česmas and its decorative fountains or šedrvans, its Ottoman-style guesthouses known as hans, and Turkish baths or hammams, and its famed Kujundžiluk, named after the countless goldsmiths that once had workshops there.

It also has its street cafes with the most beautiful of views and street shops where colourful Oriental rugs or kilims are woven and embroidery handcrafted, where traditional copper ewers called ibriks and Bosnian, copper coffee pots or džezvas are still being made by hand, and where traditional hexagonal coffee tables known as peškuns are being hand carved. Chances are that, on one such table, you will be served such lazy pies and Oriental flower-syrup-soaked delicacies as crisp yet succulent cheese borek (cottage cheese stuffed filo pastry), sugary rose Turkish delight, Turkish baklava, tufahijas (Bosnian poached apple dessert) and hurmašicas (Bosnian syrup biscuits). Make sure you also savour the intoxicating fragrance of creamy Bosnian coffee served in a fildžan, a tiny coffee cup without a handle, which you are to embrace with the palms of your hands. Just like this fairy-tale-like town, a guardian of time, of rivers and bridges made from the silver droplets of moonlight milk.

Fly to Mostar! Croatia Airlines connects Zagreb with Mostar from May to late  October.

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CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

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MERIDIJANI MERIDIANS

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Hramski kompleks Angkor Wat The Angkor Wat temple complex

Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos _ Saša Pjanić

Kraljevina Kambodža je zemlja od petnaestak milijuna stanovnika od kojih gotovo dva milijuna živi u Phnom Penhu. Šetnja tim gradom ostavlja snažan dojam autentičnosti dinamične azijske metropole u rasponu od budističkih hramova i kulturnih znamenitosti do živopisnih tržnica po kojima je grad nadaleko poznat. Kambodža je zemlja rižinih polja, velikih rijeka i jezera s izrazito ruralnom populacijom.

Brdovite uzvisine i planinski lanci rasporedili su se uz granicu. U tom šarenom društvu stranaca svoje mjesto pronalazi i mnogo pridošlica. A hrvatska šljivovica može se kušati u ekskluzivnom baru Raqia Republic, pnompenškoj franšizi poznatoga zagrebačkog brenda.

The Kingdom of Cambodia is a country of some fifteen million people, nearly two million of whom live in Phnom Penh. Strolling through the city leaves a strong impression of an authenticity of a dynamic Asian metropolis, ranging from Buddhist temples and cultural sites to vibrant markets, which the city is widely known for. Cambodia is a land of rice paddies, big rivers and lakes, and a remarkably rural population. It is encircled by high mountains and mountain ranges along its border. In its colourful society of non-natives, many expats have found a place to live in. Croatian šljivovica (plum brandy in translation) can be sampled at the exclusive Raqia Republic Bar, a franchise of the well-known Zagreb brand in Phnom Penh.

Pješčana plaža na otoku Koh Ta Kiev A sandy beach on the island of Koh Ta Kiev

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01 Tržnica Tuol Tom Poung, poznata i pod nazivom Russian Market Tuol Tom Poung market, also known as the Russian Market 02 Poslovni toranj Vattanac Capital Vattanac Capital Tower

03 Tusk House u 278. ulici, poznatoj po noćnim barovima i zabavi Tusk House on Street 278, famous for late night bars and partying 04 Angkor Wat, reljefni prikazi Apsara Angkor Wat, bas-reliefs of Apsara 05 Show Box, glazbeni klub i bar koji promiče fusion kmerske i zapadnjačke kulture Show Box, a music club and bar that promotes a fusion of Khmer and Western cultures 06 Čuvena Pub Street u Siem Reapu s mnogim restoranima The famous Pub Street in Siem Reap with countless restaurants

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01 Prodavačica prženih insekata, sve rjeđi prizor u Kambodži Fried insect vendor, an increasingly rare sight in Cambodia 02 Sokha Phnom Penh Hotel & Residence na ušću Tonle Sap u Mekong Sokha Phnom Penh Hotel & Residence where the Tonle Sap River flows into the Mekong 03 Koh Dach, veliki riječni otok na Mekongu na sjevernome rubu metropole, omamit će vas svojim spokojem Koh Dach, a large river island in the Mekong River on the northern outskirts of the city, is bound to spoil you with its serenity

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COME, SEE, LISTEN, ENJOY! CONCERTS, EXHIBITIONS, LECTURES, WORKSHOPS held under the patronage of the Mayor of the City of Zagreb

| zagrebsaxcongress.com

S

jedim na terasi nekadašnjeg Kluba stranih dopisnika. Danas je to lijep, mali boutique hotel, od nogostupa udaljen upravo onoliko da pogled na besprijekorno održavani travnjak naglasi njegove jednostavne obrise. Koliko god Siem Reap bio pod opsadom turista, u njemu se još uvijek da predahnuti od nesmiljene vreve azijskih metropola. Na zidovima fotografije iz ranih godina kambodžanske neovisnosti. Na jednoj iz 1968. jugoslavenski maršal s bijelom girlandom oko vrata i njegov domaćin, princ i predsjednik Norodom Sihanouk. Kontinuitet monarhističkih i svih ostalih titula koje je budući i bivši kralj, princ, predsjednik i premijer za svojega dugog života obnašao jednako je teško slijediti kao i turbulentnu povijest kambodžanske neovisnosti od 1953. do danas. No činjenica da je vremešni monarh u svim tim događajima sudjelovao, i još ih k tomu preživio, vjerojatno mu je zasluženo priskrbila titulu kralja-oca domovine. Preminuo je u devedesetoj, 2012. godine, kada sam prvi put posjetio Kambodžu. Otada pa do danas mnogo se toga promijenilo.

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Često razmišljam što ima manje smisla: posjetiti Kambodžu i ne vidjeti Angkor ili doći u Kambodžu i vidjeti samo Angkor. Ako se baš mora birati, vjerojatno ono prvo. Obilazak nije jeftin ni za europske standarde − 37 dolara za jednodnevnu ulaznicu. No vrijedilo bi doći i za veći iznos jer je bivši kmerski megalopolis uz dolinu Bagan u Mijanmaru nešto najspektakularnije od baštine što Jugoistočna Azija strancu može pokazati.

Problem je samo to što se u jednom danu ne može vidjeti sve: Angkor Thom, Preah Khan, Ta Prohm, Bayon, Terasu slonova, kilometre popločanih staza uz kanale i prašnjavih makadama kroz šume, kamene bareljefe uklesane pod beskonačnim trijemovima što bruje o junačkim epovima ali i rasplesanim nebeskim nimfama Apsarama.

Veliki vodeni opkop koji uprizoruje praocean u savršenom prostornom skladu okružuje Angkor Wat, najveći hram na svijetu.

On je ujedno i neupitan simbol kmerskog identiteta, u raznim stilizacijama prisutan na najvažnijim državničkim insignijama poput zastave i novčanica ili na potrošačkim robnim markama.

U Kambodžu sam doputovao kopnenim putem iz Bangkoka. Bez pretjerane žurbe

Creating luxury villas in south Croatia since 2004

Abis Consulting Ltd. Nikole Tavelica 50, 21000 Split, Croatia Tel +385 (0) 98 265 151

i za iznos tek nešto veći od 20 dolara, kombinirao sam podosta različitih oblika prijevoza: vlak, podzemnu željeznicu, putnički kombi, tuk tuk te kraće pješačenje pri prelasku granice kod Poi Peta.

Zapravo, bio je to dvodnevni put dug 700 kilometara bez velikog predumišljaja, a s najtoplijim preporukama. Put od vrata do vrata, onih mojega čestog svratišta na bučnom Sukhumvitu do novootkrivenoga Tusk Housea, smještenoga u nimalo tišoj pnompenškoj 278. ulici.

Kambodža je zemlja rižinih polja, velikih rijeka i jezera. Brdovite uzvisine i planinski lanci, kojima ova zemlja i ne obiluje, nekako su se rasporedili po njezinu obodu, uz granicu sa susjednim zemljama. Najviši vrh, Phnom Aural, sa svojih se 1813 metara nadmorske visine uzdiže s ruba Kardamomske planine poput velike, džunglom obrasle piramide.

Njezine zapadne padine strmo uranjaju u Tajlandski zaljev kao prirodna prepreka vlažnim monsunskim vjetrovima s mora, zbog čega su udaljeni rubovi manje vlažni i pogodni za uzgoj mirodija. Kada govorimo o okusima Kambodže, papar iz Kampota delicija je iznimne kvalitete,

Property Consulting

Project Management

Construction Engineering

Architect Design

Fax +385 (0) 21 781 526 info@abis-croatia.com

abis-croatia.com brend. Na uobičajenu jelovniku dominiraju intenzivni okusi đumbira i citrusa, kombinacija kojom se nadijeva gotovo sve što nije juha, te okus prahoka, fermentirane riblje paste. Jela se češće začinjavaju svježe ubranim grozdovima papra nego čili papričicama, što je tipično obilježje kmerske kuhinje. Obradivo tlo, oteto šumi i natapano ogromnim količinama vode, rezervirano je dakako za najznačajniju azijsku kulturu, rižu.

Kambodža je zemlja izrazito ruralnog stanovništva. Oko 80 posto stanovnika vezano je uz selo i neku vrstu poljoprivredne proizvodnje, nerijetko potpuno autarkične. Zemljište je usitnjeno pa, iako pogodno podneblje omogućuje i do tri žetve godišnje, Kambodža još uvijek ne stoji uz bok velikim izvoznicima poljoprivrednih proizvoda kao što su Vijetnam i Tajland. No usprkos kaskanju za količinama, riža proizvedena ovdje vrhunske je kvalitete. Korak po korak selo se sve više otvara i turizmu. Ribarska sela s kućama podignutima na drvenom kolju uz jezero Tonle Sap preporučit će vam svaki portal kao nezaobilaznu atrakciju utipkate li u tražilicu Cambodia floating villages. Za

Tous Les Jours, južnokorejski lanac francuskih pekara Tous Les Jours, a South Korean chain of French bakeries

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Spomenik kralju Norodomu Sihanouku i Slavoluk neovisnosti The statue of King Norodom Sihanouk and the Independence Monument

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one komotne koji ovamo dolaze samo po rumeni uzdah u suton iznad Angkora valja naglasiti da vožnja od Siem Reapa do jezera ne traje bitno dulje nego ona do ulaza u hram. No čak i ako ste u bučnom Phnom Penhu, pravu pastoralnu idilu uz rijeku možete osjetiti već nakon polusatne vožnje motorom. Koh Dach, veliki riječni otok na Mekongu na sjevernom rubu metropole, omamit će vas svojim spokojem.

Prigušeni kikot radoznale djece i uspavljujući klopot razboja u carstvu debele hladovine pokraj mirne vode koja polako teče. Godinama ljudi ovdje tkaju svilu na stari način, a rado će ga pokazati svakom namjerniku koji se u tome želi sam isku-

šati. Odjeća je najvažniji kambodžanski proizvod, u njezinu izvozu zastupljen s čak 80 posto. Tkaonice nedaleko od metropole zapravo su muzeji u kojima su ne tako davni počeci tekstilne industrije sačuvani in situ.

Phnom je kmerska riječ i znači brdo. Najpoznatiji kambodžanski brežuljak nasuti je humak koji je dobio ime po nekoj ženi.

Priča kaže kako je u 14. stoljeću, za vrijeme velike vode, šuplji trupac doplutao do maloga ribarskog sela na obalama rijeke Tonle Sap. Da to nije tek obična naplavina pošteđena riječnih vrtloga, posumnjala je bogata seoska udovica imena Daun Penh, u čijem se malom privezištu za čunjeve plitkog dna zaustavio zagonetni balvan. Sumnja se pokazala opravdanom. U unutrašnjosti trupca bila su četiri brončana kipa Buddhe. Pronalazak je gospođu Penh potaknuo na zaključak da se u njemu krije nebeski znak, pa je uz rijeku odmah dala nasuti humak na kojemu će podići hram. Dom relikvija kojima nije bilo suđeno da ih proguta riječni vir danas je hram i zove se Wat Phnom, a grad u kojem se on nalazi zove se Brdo Gospođe Penh, Phnom Penh.

Topografija grada nalikuje ploči na kojoj se igra Ouk Chatrang, kmerska inačica šaha i omiljena razonoda u popodnevnoj dokolici. Phnom Penh nije velik grad.

Zbog otvorenih bulevara, obilja zelenila i zgrada podignutih za vrijeme francuske kolonijalne uprave nekoć su ga zvali biserom Azije. I prva desetljeća neovisnosti značila su uzlaznu putanju za urbanizam mlade metropole. Kako bi na europskim temeljima izgradio novi kmerski identitet, šezdesetih je godina princ Sihanouk provodio ambiciozne projekte. Upravne zgrade, vijećnice, kazališta, sportski kompleksi i spomenici, mahom djela najpoznatijega kmerskog arhitekta Vanna Molyvanna, utisnuli su trajan pečat na zlatno doba kambodžanske neovisnosti, kada još nitko u staklenoj kugli nije mogao vidjeti kakvu će oluju donijeti desetljeće koje dolazi.

Kraljevina Kambodža zemlja je od petnaestak milijuna stanovnika od kojih gotovo dva milijuna živi u Phnom Penhu. Stanovništvo je pretežno budističko, kojime uz malobrojne etničke zajednice Vijetnamaca i naroda Cham dominiraju Kmeri.

Phnom Penh danas vrvi poput košnice, a intervencije u postojeću stambenu infrastrukturu djeluju kao nastojanja da se

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Hram Wat Phnom po kojemu je grad dobio ime Wat Phnom Temple after which the city was named

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pošto-poto udomi svatko tko je u stanju plaćati najamninu. Pa ipak, šetnja gradom ostavlja snažan dojam autentičnosti dinamične azijske metropole u rasponu od budističkih hramova i kulturnih znamenitosti do živopisnih tržnica po kojima je grad nadaleko poznat. Ispred kraljevske palače, iznad čijeg ulaza visi ogromna slika kralja Sihanouka, prostire se travnati perivoj s grmolikom hortikulturom koja uličnim prodavačima pruža spasonosan hlad u vrijeme nezaobilaznog poslijepodnevnog odmora. Narodni muzej Kambodže nalazi se odmah uz palaču i često je mjesto posjeta. U njegovu predvorju svakodnevno se mogu pogledati tradicionalni kmerski plesovi, kazališna uprizorenja te poslušati kmerska glazba. Oba povijesna zdanja okružena budističkim hramovima završavaju pogledom na novu zgradu hotela Sokha Phnom Penh, ispod čije se velike terase s dva heliodroma spajaju rijeke Tonle Sap i Mekong. Terasa je u funkciji odličnog à la carte restorana i lounge bara i dostupna je svakome tko uz piće želi uživati u spektakularnom pogledu na grad.

Posljednji investicijski val, najveći otkako je nakon desetljeća previranja i među-

narodne izolacije 1993. ponovo uspostavljena monarhija, osjetno je popravio nekad apatično raspoloženje nacije.

Trend gospodarskog rasta, pogonjen osobito kapitalom iz Kine, čije su stope u zemljama Jugoistočne Azije među najvećima na svijetu, najviše je vidljiv u Phnom Penhu. Nakon godina stagnacije, grad se prometnuo u veliko gradilište.

Nad niskom horizontalnom vedutom izdižu se poslovni tornjevi modernoga i znakovitog dizajna poput Vattanac Capital Towera, projektiranog po načelu feng shuija u obliku stiliziranog zmajeva repa.

Ulice vrve životom, a bulevari, donedavno gotovo prazni, zavijeni u mrak i prašinu, blješte svjetlećim reklamama i farovima automobila iz beskonačnih gužvi. Pribrojimo li tomu i demografiju koja ide u prilog generaciji rođenoj devedesetih kao i sve veći broj stranaca koji dolaze u grad, nije pretjerano reći da Phnom Penh i Kambodža sve više postaju hit destinacija.

Stojim uz ogradu krovne terase poznatog lounge bara Le Moon s pogledom na rijeku. Uz pitki lager koji se brzo grije, pa se čaše za pivo najčešće skladište u zamrzivaču, upijam topao siječanjski

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DALMATIAN AND MEDITERRANEAN FINE DINING

A: Dante Aligheri 2, 20 000 Dubrovnik | E: info@sesame.hr | W: www.sesame.hr RESERVATIONS: +385 20 412 910

Kraljevska palača u Phnom Penhu The Royal Palace in Phnom Penh

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suton. Od zadnjeg puta Phnom Penh je potpuno oživio u svojem vertikalnom svijetu i, premda vidljivo zaostajući u rastu za Bangkokom, izazivački mu dobacuje rukavicu. Nekoć tih grad u kojemu je život zamirao s prvim mrakom ozbiljno je upregnuo u treću smjenu. Četvrti klubova i pubova u pravokutnoj mreži gradskih ulica redaju se jedna za drugom: Riverside, Street 51, Boeung Keng Kang, Golden Street 278 i nešto udaljeniji Tonle Bassac. Događanja ima napretek i za svačiji ukus, a kako je grad razmjerno malen, od sumraka do zore može ih se dosta i obići. Meni omiljeno mjesto zbivanja i okupljalište mladih glazbenika i umjetnika iz Kambodže i svijeta jest Show Box. Glazbena scena pravo je ogledalo prožimanja pop kulture mladih koja se razvija pod utjecajem sve veće skupine doseljenika sa Zapada, Kine, Južne Koreje, Australije, Japana.

U tom šarenom društvu stranaca svoje mjesto pronalazi i ne tako malen broj pridošlica. Imaju čak i svoje okupljalište, Tusk House, a hrvatska šljivovica može se kušati u ekskluzivnom baru Raqia Re-

public, pnompenškoj franšizi poznatoga zagrebačkog brenda.

Putujem na jug. Put do obale traje oko četiri sata. Autobusom, kombijem ili taksijem koji, skupi li vas se četvoro i posreći li vam se s dogovorom, ne odskače bitno u cijeni. U restoranima uz cestu obično je gužva jer tim važnim transportnim koridorom prometuje velik broj tegljača koji prevoze lučki teret. I tu se vide promjene od prošlog puta. Nekada su to bile tezge ispod nadstrešnica uz cestu gdje tarantula i prženih skakavaca nikada nije nedostajalo. Danas su to zidani objekti, više nego pristojna mjesta kakvih na Tajlandu i u Vijetnamu ima napretek, s bogatim izborom jela. Od ukusnih bujon-juha s rižinim rezancima do okruglica, woka i poslastica. Tipičan kmerski doručak jest mesna juha s rezancima Kuy Teav. Pripravlja se od svinjskog temeljca, no okus joj je prikriven češnjakom, paprom, limetom, korijandrom i azijskim bosiljkom, čime se najčešće nadijeva. Dokazano prija u ranu zoru, prije puta, uz uvjet da ste jutarnji izjelica.

Vjerojatno najpoznatije kambodžansko

jelo jest Amok. Naziv se zapravo više odnosi na način pripremanja filetirane slatkovodne ribe, nadjevene začinskom smjesom i kokosovim mlijekom koja se umotana u list banane priprema na pari.

Općenito govoreći, kambodžanska kuhinja svojevrsno je otkriće s obzirom na dugo razdoblje olovnih godina kroz koje je zemlja prolazila. Osim raznovrsnosti autentičnih okusa koje kombinira na svoj, kmerski način, poznata je i po svježim namirnicama koje na tezge stižu ravno iz vrtova, rijeka ili mora.

Put završava u Tajlandskom zaljevu, na otoku Koh Ta Kiev, na kraju male uvale gdje iza krošnji i tropskog raslinja proviruju krovovi skrivenih jungle bungalova.

Taj mali tropski raj na kraju svijeta zove se Kactus, a vodi ga Zagrepčanka Tena s partnerom Michelom, Francuzom čije ime ispravno navodi na zaključak tko se brine za spizu. U bezbrižnoj dokolici popodnevnog drijemeža glavom mi prohuji sumnja hoće li ovo mjesto zauvijek ostati ovakvo. Hoće li u navali nesmiljenog razvoja i dalje postojati mjesta gdje će se  moći pobjeći od svijeta?

I

’m sitting on the terrace of what was once the Foreign Correspondents Club. Today, this is a beautiful small boutique hotel, indented from the pavement exactly as much Hramski kompleks as it takes its impeccably maintained lawn Angkor Wat The Angkor Wat to highlight the building’s simple contours. temple complex Regardless of the fact that Siem Reap is besieged by tourists, you can still take a break in it from the hustle and bustle of this Asian metropolis. Photographs from the early years of Cambodian independence decorate the walls. One from 1968 portrays the Yugoslav marshal with a white garland around his neck and his host, Prince and President Norodom Sihanouk. Following the continuity of the monarchic and all the other titles that the future and former king, prince, president and prime minister had held throughout his long life is as difficult as following the turbulent history of Cambodian independence since 1953 to the present day. Yet, the fact that the long-lived monarch had partaken in all the events and had managed to survive them all has earned him the title of King Father of Cambodia probably deservedly. He died in his nineties in 2012, when I first visited Cambodia. Much has changed since then.

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I often think which makes less sense: to visit Cambodia and not see Angkor or to come to Cambodia and see only Angkor. If I really had to make a choice, I’d probably pick the first option. Touring Angkor is not cheap, not even for European standards. A single one-day ticket costs USD 37.00. However, regardless of the price, it’s worth seeing because the former Khmer megalopolis along the Bagan Valley in Myanmar is the most spectacular of heritage sites that Southeast Asia can offer tourists. The only problem is that a single day isn’t enough to see absolutely everything: Angkor Thom, Preah Khan, Ta Prohm, Bayon, the Terrace of the Elephants, miles of paved paths along canals and dusty macadam roads through the jungle, stone bas-reliefs carved into endless porch ceilings humming with heroic epics and the dancing of the celestial nymphs of Apsara. The largest temple in the world, Angkor Wat, is surrounded by a wide moat symbolising the primordial ocean, and this in perfect spatial harmony. It is also an indisputable symbol of Khmer identity, present in various stylisations on the most important state insignia, such as Cambodia’s flag and banknotes, or appearing on the logos of consumer brands.

I arrived in Cambodia via an overland route from Bangkok. Without being in too much of a hurry and for a little more than USD 20.00, I combined a number of different means of transport: I travelled by train, by subway, by passenger van, by tuk-tuk and on foot, crossing the border at Poipet. Actually, it was a highly recommended, two-day, 700-kilometre long journey that I set off on without much forethought. A journey from door to door, from the doors of my lodgings at the buzzing Sukhumvit in Bangkok to those of the newly discovered Tusk House on the equally bustling Street 279 in Phnom Penh.

Cambodia is a land of rice paddies, and big rivers and lakes. It is encircled by high mountains and mountain ranges along its border with neighbouring countries. Mountains and mountain ranges, which this country doesn’t actually have many of, are distributed along its periphery, its border with neighbouring countries. Cambodia’s highest mountain, Phnom Aural, rising 1813 metres above sea level, rises from the shoulder of Cardamom Mountains like a giant, junglecovered pyramid. Its western slopes dive steeply into the Gulf of Thailand as a natural barrier to humid monsoon winds blowing from the sea, which makes its inland-facing shoulders less humid and suitable for the cultivation of spices, amongst which pepper grown in Kampot is particularly highly prized. Cambodian cuisine is dominated by the intense flavours of ginger and citrus, a blend flavouring almost everything that isn’t broth, and prahok, fermented fish paste.

Their dishes are seasoned with freshly picked pepper clusters, typically featured in Khmer cuisine, rather than with chilli peppers.

Arable land, stolen from the jungle and irrigated with enormous amounts of water, is reserved for Asia’s staple grain − rice.

Cambodia is a land of a remarkably rural population. About 80 percent of the population is tied to the countryside and agricultural production of some sort, often in an entirely self-sufficient fashion.

The land is broken up into small plots and so, irrespective of the fact that its climate could support as many as three harvests a year, Cambodia is not yet on a par with such big exporters of agricultural products as Vietnam and Thailand. However, in spite of lagging behind in rice production quantities, the rice produced here is of the highest quality. The countryside is also increasingly opening up to tourism. Should you search for Cambodia’s floating villages on the Internet, each and every website recommends their fishing

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villages with houses raised above ground level on wooden logs on the Tonle Sap Lake as a must-see attraction. For those who come here only to admire the afterglow at dusk over Angkor, it’s worth pointing out that driving from Siem Reap to the lake doesn’t take much longer than getting to the entrance of the temple. Yet, even if you’re in clamorous Phnom Penh, you can experience a real pastoral idyll by the river after as little as a half-hour ride on a motorbike. Koh Dach, a large river island lying in the Mekong River on the northern outskirts of the metropolis, is bound to spoil you with its serenity − the muffled giggling of curious children and the soporific clacking of looms in an empire of deep shade beside the calm waters flowing slowly. People here have been weaving silk in the old fashioned way for years, and will gladly show it to any chance traveller who’d like to try their hand at it. The production of clothing is Cambodia’s leading economic sector taking up as much as 80% in exports. Weaving factories not far from the city are, in fact, museums where the not so ancient beginnings of Cambodia’s textile industry have been preserved in situ.

Phnom is a Khmer word and signifies a mountain. The most famous Cambodian hill is a mound named after a woman.

Local legend has it that, in the 14th century, during high water, a hollow log drifted to a small fishing village on the banks of the Tonle Sap River. A wealthy rural widow named Daun Penh suspected that this was no commonplace piece of washed-up wooden debris spared from the whirlpool.

The mysterious log came to a halt at Daun Penh’s tiny mooring and its shallow docking cones. Her suspicions proved justified. There were four bronze statues of the Buddha inside the log. Mrs Penh’s discovery prompted her to conclude that this was a heavenly sign, and so she immediately had a mound heaped up beside the river and a temple raised on top of it. The home of the relics, which were not destined to be swallowed up by the whirlpool, is today a temple, namely Wat Phnom, and the city in which it is to be found is called Mrs Penh’s Hill − Phnom Penh.

The city’s topography resembles a board on which Ouk Chatrang is played, the Khmer version of chess and Cambodia’s national pastime. Phnom Penh is not a big city. Because of its wide boulevards, rich greenery and the buildings erected during the French colonial rule, it was once called the pearl of Asia. During the first decade of Cambodia’s independence, the urbanisation of this young metropolis was on an upward trajectory. With a view to building a new Khmer identity on European foundations, Prince Sihanouk embarked on ambitious projects during the sixties. Administration buildings, city halls, theatre houses, sports complexes and monuments − most of which are the work of the most famous Khmer architect, Vann Molyvann − left their mark on the golden age of Cambodian independence, at a time when no crystal ball could possibly foretell the storm to come in the approaching decade.

The Kingdom of Cambodia is a country of some fifteen million people, nearly two million of whom live in Phnom Penh.

Its population is predominantly Buddhist, dominated by the Khmer ethnic group alongside a small Vietnamese ethnic community and that of the Cham people. Phnom Penh to-

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Ouk Chatrang, kmerska inačica šaha, omiljena ulična razonoda Ouk Chatrang, the Khmer version of chess, Cambodia’s national pastime

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day buzzes like a hive, with interventions in the existing housing infrastructure giving the impression that efforts are made, whatever the cost, to house anyone who can pay rent. Yet, strolling through the city leaves a strong impression of an authenticity of a dynamic Asian metropolis, ranging from Buddhist temples and cultural sites to vibrant markets, which the city is widely known for. A grass garden with shrubs stretches outside the Royal Palace − above the entrance of which a giant image of King Sihanouk is hung − providing street vendors with much needed shade during their afternoon rest. The National Museum of Cambodia is adjacent to the palace and is a popular place to visit. In its entrance hall, traditional Khmer dances are performed, theatre shows staged, and Khmer music performances held every day. The two historic buildings surrounded by Buddhist temples end with a view of the new Sokha Phnom Penh hotel building, under the grand terrace of which, including two helicopter pads, the Tonle Sap and the Mekong rivers merge. The terrace is a great à la carte restaurant and lounge

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bar, and all wishing to enjoy a spectacular view of the city while sipping at their drink are welcome.

The latest wave of investment, actually the greatest wave since the monarchy was restored in 1993 after decades of turmoil and international isolation, has raised the spirits of the once apathetic people of Cambodia. The trend of economic growth, driven notably by Chinese capital, whose rates are, from amongst the countries of Southeast Asia, amongst the highest in the world, are most obvious in Phnom Penh.

After years of stagnation, the city has become a large construction site. Business towers of such modern and remarkable design as the Vattanac Capital Tower − which was designed following the principles of feng shui in the form of a stylised dragon’s tail − rise above the low skyline of the city. Its streets are bustling with life, and the boulevards, which were until recently almost empty, and shrouded in darkness and dust, now glare with the bright lights of street advertising boards and car lights in an endless flow of traffic. If we add to this the demographics of the city that go in favour of the generation born in the nineties,

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01 Ulice Phnom Penha najčešće su označene brojevima kao i poznata 172., ulica barova i jeftinog smještaja u središtu grada The streets of Phnom Penh are most often marked by numbers, including the famous Street 172, the street of bars and cheap accommodation in the city centre 02 Najpoznatije kambodžansko pivo The most famous Cambodian beer

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as well as an increasing number of expats coming to the city, it’s no exaggeration to say that Phnom Penh and Cambodia have become a highly popular destination.

I’m standing by the fence of the roof terrace of the famous Le Moon lounge bar overlooking the river. Sipping at my very drinkable lager that warms up very quickly, which is why beer glasses are most commonly stored in a freezer, I’m taking pleasure in a warm January dusk.

Since the last time I visited Phnom Penh, it’s been completely rebirthed, particularly in its vertical world, and has been seriously challenging Bangkok, although still visibly lagging behind it in growth. This was once a city in which life stopped at the first sign of darkness, but has now gone into high gear. Club and pub districts in the rectangular grid network of city streets line up one after the other: Riverside, Street 51, Boeung Keng Kang, Golden Street 278 and the somewhat more remote Tonle Bassac. The city abounds with events and happenings suiting every taste, and given that the city is relatively small, many can be taken part in between dusk and dawn. My favourite venue is the Show Box, the gathering place of young musicians and artists from Cambodia and the world. The music scene mirrors brilliantly a fusion of the pop culture of young people developing under the influence of a growing number of migrants from the West, China, South Korea, Australia, Japan. In this colourful society of non-natives, many expats have found a place to live in. They even have their own gathering place, namely Tusk House, and Croatian šljivovica (plum brandy in translation) can be sampled at the exclusive Raqia Republic Bar, a franchise of the well-known Zagreb brand in Phnom Penh.

I’m travelling south. The trip takes about four hours. Whether by bus, van or taxi, which, if there’s four of you and you get lucky bargaining, isn’t that expensive. The restaurants along the road are usually crowded because a great many freight trucks transporting goods from the harbour use this important transport corridor. Things have changed even here since the last time I visited. These used be awning-covered street food stalls beside the road with plenty of tarantula and deep fried grasshoppers on offer. Today, these are masonry structures, more than decent places that both Thailand and Vietnam teem with, offering a rich selection of dish-

es, ranging from tasty rice noodle broths to dumplings, wok dishes and desserts. Kuy Teav, a meat and noodle broth, is a typical Khmer breakfast dish. It is made from pork stock, and is heavily seasoned with garlic, pepper, lime, coriander and Asian basil.

Tried and tested, it does go down well at early dawn, just before a trip, provided you’re big on morning meals. Amok is probably the most famous Cambodian dish. The name of the dish actually refers to a method of preparing filleted freshwater fish, stuffed with a mix of herbs and spices, and coconut milk, which is then steamed while wrapped in a banana leaf.

Generally speaking, Cambodian cuisine is a discovery of sorts, considering the many years of lead which the country lived through. Khmer cuisine is known not only for a variety of authentic flavours combined in its very own, Khmer way, but also for the fresh ingredients it uses coming straight from their gardens, their rivers or the sea.

My journey ends in the Gulf of Thailand, on the island of Koh Ta Kiev, at the end of a small cove where the rooftops of hidden jungle bungalows are barely discernible behind treetops and tropical vegetation.

This tiny tropical paradise at the end of the world is called Kactus Resort, and is run by Zagreb-born Tena and her French partner. While taking an afternoon nap as carefree as it gets, I start wondering whether this place will forever remain as it is. Will there still be places where, given the onrush of relentless development, you’ll be able to escape to from the rest of  the world?

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MODA FASHION

Tko bi uopće mogao tražiti ljepotu u pleksiglasu? Materijalu koji nema pradavno dostojanstvo kamena ili drveta, nego je to obična termoplastična masa polimetilmetakrilata koja se distribuira u obliku ravnih ploča.

Nitko? Nitko osim Diane Sokolić.

I ondje ju je ta samostalna umjetnica, dobitnica mnogih domaćih i međunarodnih priznanja i nagrada, i pronašla.

Who could possibly look for beauty in acrylic glass? A material that doesn’t possess the immemorial dignity of stone or wood, but is commonplace thermoplastic mass or polymethyl methacrylate cast in sheets. No one? No one except Diana Sokolić. And it is exactly in acrylic glass that this freelance artist, a winner of many national and international awards and accolades, has found beauty.

Piše/By _ Suzana Matić Fotografije/Photos _ Vanja Šolin

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ada u knjizi Nepodnošljiva lakoća postojanja Sabina slika pa joj na jedno dovršeno platno kapne boja, a ona od te mrlje, koja je greška, napravi otvor u jedan drugi, dotad potpuno skriveni svijet, češki pisac Milan Kundera to naziva ljepota kao greška. Nenamjerna ljepota... Diana Sokolić nepogrešivo prepoznaje ljepotu kao grešku, odnosno, bolje rečeno, grešku kao ljepotu. Kad je ta akademska slikarica, koja se uz slikarstvo i instalaciju bavi i dizajnom, keramikom i fotografijom, počela izrađivati nakit od komadića pleksiglasa što su preostali od izrade njezinih velikih svjetlosnih instalacija, nastali su oblici za vječnost. Netko drugi pomeo bi ih u kantu jer, na kraju krajeva, riječ je o nerazgradivoj plastici, ozloglašenu materijalu od kojega će svaki progonitelj nekanonske ljepote prezrivo okrenuti glavu.

Ne i ona. Diana Sokolić zna i s materijalima, i s vječnošću, i s ljepotom. Stoga je uzela te komadiće u svoje stvaralačke ruke i nije ih pustila sve dok oblikovanjem nije promijenila i sudbinu samoga pleksija. Sve dok mu nije priskrbila dostojanstvo koje nikad nije imao, a koje bi trebao imati, posebno zato što već i po naravi nosi epitet vječnoga. A Diana mu je izborila povlasticu da bude i − čudo.

Od toga novog materijala, slušajući ono što joj on govori, stvorila je svijet koji će svakoga tko u nj uđe ostaviti bez daha.

Iako je nastao iz greške. Baš kao i onaj Kunderine Sabine. Domišljato je iz materijala savršene glazure izvukla okoštalu živu snagu skrivenu od svih, ponekad čak utiskujući u nj tragove slikara koji su nju oblikovali.

I sad kao u Tetrisu − računalnoj igrici u kojoj raznobojni oblici padaju s vrha, a igrač ih treba okretati i pomicati tako da na dnu između njih ne ostane nikakva šupljina jer će se u protivnome nepovezani dijelovi gomilati a igra završiti − dok

gledamo u Dianine šarene radove, zapravo gledamo u jasne i pokretne dijelove puno veće istine o vječnosti. Pojmovi kao što su svjetlost, ljepota, nasljeđe, novo pred našim se očima slažu sami, povezuju jedni s drugima bez našega napora, posve idealno, ne ostavljajući pritom ni najmanju prazninu nedorečenoga. Za razliku od računalne igre koja jednom mora stati, Dianin svijet zbog svojega pokretnog unutrašnjeg sklada ne mora i neće. Gledajući u Dianine kreacije zaista svjedočimo vječnosti, koja traje ovdje, zajedno s nama, jer je kao i mi, jednako promjenjiva, jednako živa. I zato joj prilazimo s otvorenim iščekivanjem, uzbuđenjem i radoznalošću djeteta.

Mi smo ponovno ona djeca koja su otkrila kaleidoskop. Fascinirani smo. Začuđeni i zaneseni. Zapanjeni i oduševljeni. O, koliko je samo tajnovitosti bilo u tome! Koliko čarobne nepredvidivosti! I koliko odsutnosti nereda i kaosa. Gledali smo u nešto lijepo što se mijenjalo zajedno s nama − s našim kretnjama, s titrajem ručnog zgloba, s promjenom kuta pod kojim bismo gledali… Neočekivana slika u koju se prethodna pretopila, složila iz raspršenoga − izvjesno je bilo da ljepota neće i ne može nestati. Na mjesto lijepoga uvijek bi došlo nešto novo, jednako lijepo.

Tako je i s Dianinim predmetima. Dok gledamo u njih, svjedoci smo neiscrpne zanimljivosti dosad neviđenog autorskog svijeta koji će obogatiti naš. Svijeta u koji treba barem zaviriti. Nijedan opsežan leksikon tumačenja ne bi mogao obuhvatiti zapanjujuću raznovrsnost ideja, bogatstvo inačica i varijacija, maštovitost metamorfoza, sve veze, asocijacije i raznolike šifre koje donosi, a potom i razbija svaki od tih elemenata − ne zaboravimo i motive Renoira i Kleea, Matissea i Miróa − koliko to može samo jedan pogled na autoričine narukvice, ogrlice, prozirne štapove i cipele ili pak zapanjujuće crne

Piano ogrlica i Piano narukvica, tiskani PVC Piano necklace and Piano cuff bracelet, printed PVC

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Karl kragna ogrlica i Fred manžete-narukvice, PVC Karl collar necklace and Fred cuff bracelets, PVC (srebrna nagrada na A’ Design Award / Silver A’ Design Award Winner)

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Lacey narukvice s čipkom Lacey cuff bracelets (brončana nagrada na A’ Design Award / Bronze A’ Design Award Winner)

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Joy ogrlica Duga, akril Joy Rainbow necklace, acrylic

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Dotty ogrlica, Coco narukvica, Joy narukvica i Diana torba, akril Dotty necklace, Coco bangle, Joy cuff bracelet and Diana bag, acrylic

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01 A gdje je druga? cipela, akril And Where is the Other? acrylic shoe (dio zbirke Virtualnog muzeja cipela / Virtual Shoe Museum exhibit) 02 Joy ogrlica i narukvice, akril Joy necklace and cuff bracelets, acrylic

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čizme koje nisu made for walking, nego upravo zato da te i ostave bez teksta.

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n Milan Kundera’s The Unbearable Lightness of Being, there’s a scene in which Sabina is painting and paint drips onto a finished painting of hers. There appears a stain, which is a mistake, but from this stain she creates an opening into another, completely hidden world. The Czech writer calls this beauty by mistake. Unintentional beauty... Diana Sokolić unmistakably recognises beauty by mistake, or rather − mistake by beauty. When this academic painter − who, besides painting and installation artwork, also does design, ceramics and photography − started making jewellery made of acrylic glass pieces left over from her large light installations, shapes for eternity were birthed. Someone else would have thrown them into the rubbish bin because, after all, acrylic glass

is non-biodegradable plastics, a notorious material that each and every persecutor of non-canonical beauty will shy away from contemptuously.

But not Diana Sokolić. She knows how to work with materials, with eternity, and with beauty. So her creative hands picked up these bits and pieces, and she didn’t let go of them until she’s changed the very destiny of acrylic glass by shaping it. Until she’s provided it with the dignity it has never had, yet should have, particularly because it bears, by nature, the hallmark of eternity.

By doing so, Diana has also earned it the privilege of being − a wonderwork.

From this new material she has created an entire world by listening to what it’s whispering to her, a world that will leave everyone who enters it − breathless. Regardless of it having arisen from a mistake. Much like the world of Kundera’s Sabina. She has extracted ingeniously from this perfectly

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Zagrlica ogrlica i Narupkice narukvice, akril Neck Lace necklace and Lace cuff bracelets, acrylic

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CÉLINE, BALENCIAGA, LOEWE, VALENTINO, SAINT LAURENT, GIVENCHY, CHLOÉ, AZZEDINE ALAÏA, VITA KIN, STELLA MCCARTNEY, MONCLER, MONCLER GAMME ROUGE, MAISON MARGIELA, M2MALLETIER, FALIERO SARTI, MAISON MICHEL, IVI JEWELRY, ACHERALI KNOFER, DELFINA DELETTREZ, ERICKSON BEAMON, TOM BINNS, GIANVITO ROSSI, LINDA FARROW LUXE, VICKI SARGE Maria Zagreb, Masarykova 8, 01-4811011 Maria Dubrovnik, Sv. Dominika bb, 020-321330 www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr instagram:mariastorehr CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

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02 50 nijansi crne, čizma, akril 50 Shades of Black, an acrylic boot (dio zbirke Virtualnog muzeja cipela / Virtual Shoe Museum exhibit) 03 Narupkice narukvice, akril Lace cuff bracelets, acrylic 04 Svjetlosni objekt, akril i LED rasvjeta Light object, acrylic and LED lights

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glazed material an ossified living force hidden from the eye, imprinting in it at times traces of painters who have shaped her.

And now, as you look at Diana’s colourful works, very much like in Tetris − a puzzle computer game in which colourful shapes drop from the top of the screen, and what players have to do is rotate and move them so that they stack up at the bottom of the screen fitting perfectly without any blanks forming between them because, otherwise, the pieces that haven’t been stacked up nicely top out and the game ends − you are actually looking at clear and motile parts of a much greater truth about eternity. Such concepts as light, beauty, legacy, the new arrange themselves before your very eyes, interlace without any effort of ours, quite ideally, and in doing so they leave no room for anything to remain unstated. Unlike the said computer game that must end at some point, Diana’s world doesn’t have to nor will it end thanks to its changing inner harmony.

Looking at Diana’s creations, we indeed bear witness to an eternity, one that exists here, together with us, since it’s as alive and changing as we are. And this is why we approach it with an open expectation, excitement and the curiosity of a child.

We’ve become children again who’ve discovered the kaleidoscope. We’re fascinated.

Wonderstruck and rapturous. Astonished and delighted. Oh, just how much secrecy was in it! How much magical unpredictability! And the absence of disorder and chaos. We’d be watching something beautiful changing with us − with our movements, with the twitching of our wrist, with

a change in our observation angle... An unexpected image remodelled from the previous one, got arranged from being scattered − it’s certain that beauty neither will nor can disappear. In place of the beautiful, something new and equally beautiful would always come.

This is how things stand with Diana’s objects. As we look at them, we’re witnessing inexhaustible curiosities of the author’s yet to be discovered world that is bound to enrich ours. A world which is to be at least peeked into. No comprehensive lexicon of interpretation could encompass the astounding diversity of ideas, the richness of versions and variations, the ingenuity of metamorphoses, all the connections, associations and various codes which it first brings and then breaks each of these elements − let us not forget the motifs of Renoir and Klee, Matisse and Miró − as can only one look at Diana’s bracelets, necklaces, transparent walking sticks and shoes, or her amazing black boots that are not made for walking, but for  leaving you speechless.

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Nakit/cipele/rekviziti / Jewellery/shoes/props by : Diana Sokolić, modni dizajn / fashion by: Nada Došen, model: Emma Galogaža (Talia Models), šminka / make-up by: Lana Oppenheim Krstanović, frizura / hairstyle by: Frizerski salon OZ, obuća / shoes by: Mass

01 Diana Sokolić portret / portrait

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ZAGREB Ulica GRada Vukovara 284 Tel+385 1 366 44 90 SPLIT Hrv. Bratske Zajednice 4 Tel+385 21 32 36 80 114 Trg _ CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

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Naši sjajni paraolimpijci, vrhunski sportaši, hrabri su ljudi koji vlastitim primjerom najbolje pokazuju da se od svojega sna ne odustaje nikada. Osvojivši jednu zlatnu i jednu brončanu medalju, mala hrvatska ekipa pokazala je koliko je velika.

Croatia’s brilliant paralympic athletes, top sportspeople, are brave individuals whose not ever giving up on their dreams sets a shining example. Having won a gold and a bronze medal, the small Croatian team demonstrated just how great it is.

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Podržali smo LENDING OUR support

Piše/By _ Mato Pejić Fotografije/Photos _ Vjekoslav Skledar

Dino Sokolović

N Eva Goluža i/and Bruno Bošnjak

a prvu se komu može i učiniti čudno to da se o zimskim sportovima govori i piše usred ljeta, no u svako doba valja podsjetiti na ljude čiji je život nadahnuće. Dino Sokolović, Bruno Bošnjak, Eva Goluža!

Oni su vrhunski sportaši i hrabri ljudi koji ne samo da su svoj invaliditet prihvatili nego se mogu pohvaliti i iznimnim sportskim uspjesima, pobjedama i medaljama, poput onih koje su osvojili na Zimskim paraolimpijskim igrama u Pjongčangu. Riječ je o ljudima koji znaju o čemu govori Bošnjak kada kaže: − Kakve god probleme imali, što god vam život stavio na put, za sve postoji rješenje. Držite se svojih snova, slobodno sanjajte i ne odustajte od toga!

Dino Sokolović najbolji je hrvatski i jedan od najboljih svjetskih paraskijaša. U Pjongčangu se okitio zlatnom medaljom

u slalomu. Sokoloviću je 29 godina.

Obje noge amputirane su mu 2003. godine. Tešku je prometnu nesreću Dino doživio kad je završavao osmi razred osnovne škole. Snage da ne klone duhom dala mu je, kaže, volja za životom i sport. Počelo je s plivanjem, bilo je tu i košarke, hokeja, a zatim se prebacio na skijanje. Za to je uvelike zaslužan skijaški štap naše najbolje skijašice svih vremena, Janice Kostelić, onaj koji joj je ispao tijekom utrke na Sljemenu, pa je do cilja došla vozeći samo s jednim. − Monoski klub Zagreb je od donacije za Janičin štap uspio prikupiti novac za dvije monoskije. Tražili su nekog za skijanje. Ja sam se javio − govori Sokolović.

Nakon pet dana treninga u Austriji bilo je jasno da je skijanje njegov sport.

Kako Dino danas kaže, sreća je što se tako odvilo.

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D. Senčar / HINA

Bruno Bošnjak

D. Senčar / HINA

− Puno toga rješava sreća. Tko zna kojim bih putem dalje i bih li ikada došao na Paraolimpijske igre da se nisam javio na taj poziv. No ne možeš o tome razmišljati. Život je takav, krenuo si putem koji si odabrao i nema osvrtanja − ističe Sokolović.

Na pretprošlim Zimskim paraolimpijskim igrama u Sočiju u istoj je disciplini nakon prve vožnje bio prvi. Činilo se da je medalja tu. No u drugoj je vožnji pao. Ovaj put, u Pjongčangu, sve se odigralo kako treba. Bilo je u njega podosta nevjerice kada se dočepao cilja. A zatim erupcija radosti. Zlatnu medalju posvetio je supruzi Barbari i kćeri Viti. Na novinarski zaključak kako će zlato braniti i za četiri godine kaže: − Polako. Idemo korak po korak. Ne volim daleko unaprijed planirati jer ne

Eva Goluža

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znaš ni što se sutra može dogoditi, kamoli za četiri godine.

Tako to radi Sokolović, dan po dan do uspjeha. Dino Sokolović osvojio je prvo hrvatsko zlato, a Bruno Bošnjak prvu medalju za Hrvatsku, brončanu u snowboardu u disciplini banked slalom. Kaže da mu je velik teret pao s leđa kada je shvatio da je brončani.

Bošnjaku su 34 godine. Ovaj nadareni sportaš bio je nadomak nastupa na Zimskim olimpijskim igrama u Torinu 2006. godine, no pad i lom kralježnice usmjerili su ga drugim putem. Od snowboarda je gotovo odustao da bi slučajno doznao da postoji snowboard za osobe s invaliditetom. Započele su pripreme za Soči, no Bošnjaku se tada dogodila još jedna nesreća. Pao je s bicikla, slomio drugi i treći vratni kralje-

žak. Nije odustao! Odakle mu snage!? − Jednostavno se volim kretati, volim biti u prirodi, volim osjetiti sebe i život.

Uživam u tome. Kada sam na vrhu brda, kada idem kroz šumu, toliko sam sretan da mi bude žao ljudi koji su dolje u gradu, sjede u autima ili hodaju po betonu. Život je puno više od rada, posla i problema. Kada sam u prirodi, kada se krećem, na sve probleme zaboravim i uživam u životu − govori Bošnjak.

Sve se da riješiti, životni je moto Brune Bošnjaka, momka koji se osim uspjesima u snowboardu može pohvaliti i koječim drugim. Zavidna je njegova karijera u ragbiju u kolicima, koji igra za reprezentaciju Austrije, gdje mu živi obitelj, a igrao je ragbi i u češkoj ligi te bio prvi igrač njemačkoga kluba Rebels. U Linzu je trener ragbijaškoga kluba, igra košarku, uživa u ronjenju, borda na vodi, vozi bicikl, a stigao je privesti kraju i studij mehatronike.

Snowbordat će, kaže, do sljedećih Zimskih paraolimpijskih igara, a dalje će vidjeti.

Eva Goluža blistava je budućnost hrvatskog skijanja osoba s invaliditetom.

U dobi od tek 17 godina Eva je imala čast da na svečanom otvorenju Igara bude nositeljica hrvatske zastave. − Zastavu sam u ruke primila neposredno prije izlaska na stadion. Nadala sam se da će to biti malo prije i da ću se stići pripremiti i malo provježbati mahanje. Planirala sam je nositi jednom rukom, a drugom rukom mahnuti u kamere i gledateljima na stadionu. Čak sam i pogledala snimke prethodnih hrvatskih nositelja, od Gorana Ivaniševića, Dubravka Šimenca, Janice i Ivice Kostelića… Prilično sam snažna, ali ipak nisam poput Dubravka Šimenca da bih stijeg vrtila u zraku jednom rukom. A bilo je i straha da mi slučajno ne ispadne. Nakon brojne ekipe Kanade došao je red i na Hrvatsku. Cijeli se stadion obojao našom trobojnicom.

Strah, nervoza i sve što sam možda osjećala odmah se izgubilo. Ostao je samo veliki ponos − prisjeća se Eva Goluža.

Igre su prekrasno iskustvo. Svi se sportaši, govori Goluža, međusobno bodre, slave uspjehe, tješe kad je neuspjeha. Mala hrvatska ekipa pokazala je, smatra, da je velika. Žao

were amputated in 2003 after having been involved in a serious traffic accident when he finished the eighth grade of elementary school. His will to live and sports, he says, gave him the strength for his spirit not to break. He started off with swimming, trained basketball, hockey, and then moved on to skiing. His decision can be credited to the ski pole of Croatia’s best skier of all time, Janica Kostelić, the one she dropped during a Sljeme race and crossed the finishing line with only one. − The Zagreb Monoski Club managed to raise money for two monoskis from a donation received for Janica’s ski pole. They were looking for someone to start monoskiing. I volunteered − says Sokolović.

After as little as five days of training in Austria, it was clear that skiing was his sport. As Dino says today, he was lucky that things turned out the way they did. − Much of it comes down to luck. Who knows what road in life I would have taken and whether I would have ever made it to the Paralympics had I not volunteered to monoski. But you mustn’t think about that. Life is like that; you’ve chosen a path and there’s no looking back − Sokolović underscores.

At the 2014 Winter Paralympic Games in Sochi, he came first in the first monoski run. It seemed that that would win him a medal. But he fell in the second run. This time round, however, in Pyeongchang, everything worked out right. He was in a state of disbelief as he crossed the finishing line. Then a feeling of joy swept over him. He dedicated the gold medal to his wife Barbara and daughter Vita. At the

joj je jedino što je ostala bez plasmana u slalomu. − Dvije medalje zaista su velik uspjeh!

Posebno je bio dojmljiv trenutak kada je na dodjeli Dinove medalje zasvirala naša himna; vjerujem da su se svi naježili kao i ja. Pogled na hrvatsku zastavu koja se vijorila iznad sportskih velesila SAD−a i Francuske bio je nezaboravan prizor − kaže Goluža.

Eva je slabovidna od rođenja zbog akromatopsije, urođena genetskog poremećaja čunjića koji dovodi do snažne fotofobije, znatno smanjene oštrine vida i sljepoće za boje. Slijepi i slabovidni skijaši skijaju uz pomoć vodiča koji skija ispred njih. − Moj je najveći sportski san osvajanje medalje na Paraolimpijskim igrama. Samo rijetki, odnosno najuporniji i najbolji, dobiju priliku predstavljati svoju domovinu na takvu natjecanju. Dala sam sve od sebe da ostvarim što bolji rezultat i time opravdam povjerenje svojih trenera Ane Žigman i Luke Debeljaka te cijelog tima iz Hrvatskog paraolimpijskog odbora − poručuje Eva Goluža.

Nema sumnje, Eva Goluža svoj će san ostvariti vrlo brzo. Ona, naime, ima i dodatan motiv: skijati i podizati svijesti o tome da osobe s invaliditetom mogu aktivno sudjelovati u sportu, trenirati i donositi odličja s vrhunskih natjecanja.

Uostalom, da osobe s invaliditetom mogu sve, Eva, Dino i Bruno već su dokazali. 

D. Senčar / HINA

I

t may, at first, seem odd to talk and write about winter sports in the middle of summer, yet reminding ourselves of the people whose lives are an inspiration should be done at any time. Dino Sokolović, Bruno Bošnjak and Eva Goluža are top athletes and brave individuals who have not only accepted their disabilities, but also boast exceptional sporting achievements, victories and medals, such as those won in the 2018 Winter Paralympic Games in Pyeongchang.

They are people who know exactly what Bošnjak means when he says: Whatever problems you may have, whatever life has in store for you, there’s a solution for everything. Stick to your dreams, be free to dream and don’t ever give up!

Dino Sokolović is the best Croatian and one of the world’s best paralympic skiers.

In Pyeongchang, he won the gold medal in slalom. He’s 29 years old. Both his legs

journalists’ comment that, in four years, he’ll be defending the gold medal, he said: − Let’s slow down and take it one step at a time. I don’t like making plans far ahead because you never know what could happen tomorrow, let alone in four years’ time.

This is how Sokolović does it − day by day on his road to success.

Dino Sokolović won the first Croatian gold, and Bruno Bošnjak the first Croatian medal, a bronze in banked slalom, a discipline of snowboard. Bošnjak says that a heavy burden was lifted from his shoulders when he realised he won a bronze.

He’s 34 years old. This gifted athlete was close to competing at the 2006 Winter Olympic Games in Turin, but he fell and broke his spine which steered him in another direction. He had almost given up on snowboarding, but then he accidentally found out that there are snowboards for people with disabilities. Preparations for Sochi had begun, but Bošnjak had another accident. He fell off the bike, and broke the second and third vertebrae of his neck. Still, he didn’t give up! Wherever does he draw his strength from!? − I just love being on the move, I like being in nature, I love feeling alive and my life. I take pleasure in it. When I’m at the top of a hill, when I walk through the woods, I’m so happy that I feel sorry for people down in the city, sitting in cars or walking on the pavement. Life’s so much more than having a job, work and problems. When I’m in nature, when I’m on the move, I forget about all my problems and enjoy life − Bošnjak says.

Dino Sokolović

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There’s a solution for everything is Bruno Bošnjak’s motto in life, a man who can boast, besides his successes in snowboarding, many other things as well. His career in wheelchair rugby is enviable. He plays wheelchair rugby for the team of Austria, where his family lives, but he also played in the Czech league and for the German Rebels Club. In Linz, he coaches a rugby club, he plays basketball, enjoys diving, he surfs, he rides a bike, and managed to complete his studies in mechatronics.

He’ll snowboard, he says, until the next Winter Paralympics when he’ll decide what to do next.

Eva Goluža is the bright future of Croatian skiing for people with disabilities. At the age of only 17, Eva had the honour of being the bearer of the Croatian flag at the opening ceremony of the 2018 Winter Paralympic Games. − I was handed the flag just before I got out onto the stadium. I was hoping that that would happen a little earlier and that I’d have time to practise waving the flag. I was planning to carry it with one hand and wave with the other at the camera and the stadium audience. I even watched record-

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ings of previous Croatian flag bearers, from Goran Ivanišević, Dubravko Šimenc, Janica and Ivica Kostelić... I’m pretty strong, but I’m not like Dubravko Šimenc to be able to wave the flag up high with one hand only. I was also scared of accidentally dropping it.

Croatia’s team’s turn to enter the stadium came after Canada’s big team. The entire stadium was coloured in Croatia’s tricolour.

Fear, nervousness and all the feelings I had at the time were immediately washed away.

All I felt was pride − Eva Goluža recalls.

The Games are a wonderful experience. All the athletes, Goluža says, cheer each other on, celebrate each other’s successes, console each other when failing. Croatia’s small team has demonstrated, she believes, just how great it is. The only thing she regrets is not having made it in slalom. − Two medals are a great success! The moment when Croatia’s national anthem was played during Dino’s gold medal ceremony was particularly impressive; I’m sure that this sent shivers up everybody’s spines, like it did up mine. Seeing the Croatian flag fly above the flags of the US and France, two sporting superpowers, was a memorable moment − says Goluža.

Eva has been visually impaired since birth due to achromatopsia, a congenital genetic cone dystrophy which leads to extreme light sensitivity, significantly reduced visual acuity and colour blindness. Blind and visually impaired skiers ski with the help of a guide who skis in front of them. − My biggest sporting dream is winning a medal at the Paralympic Games. Only a select few, or the most determined and the best, are given the opportunity to represent their homeland in such a competition. I’ve done my best to achieve the best result I possibly can and so justify the trust of my coaches Ana Žigman and Luka Debeljak, and the entire team of Croatia’s National Paralympic Committee − says Eva Goluža.

There’s no doubt that Eva Goluža will soon make her dreams come true. More specifically, she’s got an added incentive: to ski and raise awareness about people with disabilities being able to actively participate in sports, train and bring home medals from major sporting events. After all, Eva, Dino and Bruno have already demonstrated that people with disabilities  can indeed do it all.

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ZDRAVSTVENI TURIZAM HEALTH TOURISM

Zagreb

Grad medicinske izvrsnosti

Z

dravstveni turizam jedan je od najstarijih specifičnih oblika turizma koji podrazumijeva iskorištavanje komparativnih prirodnih i ljekovitih prednosti uvjetovanih klimom, uz visoku profesionalnost i kvalitetu usluge, a sve u cilju očuvanja i unapređenja zdravlja te poboljšanja vrsnoće života.

U današnje vrijeme stresa i opadanja kvalitete življenja ovaj je vid turizma sve važniji, a uza nj se razvija i moderni oblik medicinskog turizma, u kojemu Zagreb zauzima sve važnije mjesto. Brojne privatne i javne polikli-

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J. Duval

A centre of medical exellence nike te zdravstveni centri sa stručnim osobljem i iznimnom kvalitetom usluge uz konkurentne cijene čine glavni grad Hrvatske centrom medicinske izvrsnosti, kojemu komparativnu prednost stvaraju blizina velikim emitivnim tržištima, odlična prometna povezanost, ali i cjelokupna ponuda koja zadovoljava i najzahtjevnije. Većina usluga zdravstvenoga turizma ima visoku dodanu vrijednost te se zajedničkim djelovanjem sektora zdravstva i turizma stvara klima koja omogućuje razvoj grada Zagreba kao destinacije

medicinskoga turizma.

Kvalificirano medicinsko osoblje i suvremena oprema jamče izvrsnu zdravstvenu uslugu. Smještajne su mogućnosti raznovrsne pa tako Zagreb danas ima 62 hotela, 50 hostela te 3145 apartmana, studio apartmana i soba. Iznimno je važna suradnja sa svim granama koje upotpunjuju ponudu zdravstvenoga turizma, od zdravstvenih ustanova do najrazličitijih turističkih sadržaja te hotelskih i ugostiteljskih kapaciteta, a glavni grad Hrvatske jedna je od vodećih destinacija u tom segmentu.

Vrijedi istaknuti da hrvatska metropola tijekom cijele godine ima i niz drugih sadržaja koji upotpunjuju ponudu zdravstvenoga turizma, stvarajući dodanu vrijednost cjelokupnog doživljaja. Neograničene su mogućnosti posjeta glazbenim i kazališnim predstavama, likovnim priredbama i muzejima, sportskim događajima te uživanja u ugodnim šetnjama, zanimljivoj arhitekturi, brojnim parkovima u središtu grada, pješačkim zonama i atmosferi. Tu je i zagrebačka okolica, koja je iznimno lijepa i atraktivna, s bogatim vinogradima i vinskim cestama, zanimljivim muzejima, srednjovjekovnim i baroknim dvorcima te mnogim ljekovitim toplicama.

Lječilište Naftalan nalazi se na pola sata vožnje od Zagreba, a jedino je u Europi i drugo u svijetu poznato po nalazištima rijetkih i snažnih prirodnih ljekovitih činitelja − ljekovite nafte, naftalana i termomineralne vode.

Ako se radi medicinskoga turizma odlučite za Zagreb, tada osim kvalitete birate i konkurentne cijene te doživljaj  koji glavni grad Hrvatske pruža.

H

ealth tourism is one of the oldest specialised forms of tourism, which implies the exploitation of comparative natural and curative advantages conditioned by a climate, with the services offered implying high professional standards and quality, the aim of which is to preserve and improve one’s state of health and quality of life.

Today, with people suffering from stress and with the quality of life declining, this type of tourism has been gaining in importance increasingly.

Alongside health tourism, a modern form of medical tourism has also been developing, with Zagreb becoming a major medical tourism destination.

Numerous private and public polyclinics and healthcare centres with professional staff offering exceptional quality services at competitive prices make the capital of Croatia a centre of medical excellence, whose proximity to large tourist markets, excellent traffic connectivity, as well as the services on offer that satisfy even the most demanding clientele make up Zagreb’s comparative advantage. Most

health tourism services rank high in added value, and the joint action of the healthcare and tourism sectors helps create the conditions for the development of the City of Zagreb as a medical tourism destination.

Qualified medical staff and state-ofthe-art equipment are a guarantee that the services rendered will be of excellent quality. Accommodation is varied, and so Zagreb today boasts 62 hotels, 50 hostels, and 3145 apartments, studio apartments and rooms. Collaboration with all branches complementing the offer of health tourism − ranging from healthcare institutions to various tourist facilities, and hotel and restau-

rant facilities − is extremely important.

The capital of Croatia is one of the leading destinations in this segment.

It is worth pointing out that Zagreb boasts a number of other facilities throughout the whole year that complement the offer of health tourism, thus creating added value of the experience as a whole. Zagreb offers unlimited possibilities: you can visit various music performances and theatre shows, art galleries and museums, sporting events, take pleasure in enjoyable walks, Zagreb’s interesting architecture, countless parks in the city centre, pedestrian zones and the city’s atmosphere. Zagreb’s exceptionally beautiful and charming surroundings also have much to offer − from rich vineyards and wine roads, through fascinating museums, and medieval and baroque castles, to many health spas. The Naftalan Health Resort is only a half an hour’s drive from Zagreb. Being the only one in Europe and the second most famous oil resort in the world, the Naftalan Health Resort abounds in rare and powerful, natural therapeutic agents − medicinal oil, naphthalene and thermomineral water.

If Zagreb is your choice as a medical tourism destination, then what you’re getting, besides quality, is competitive prices and an experience that the  capital of Croatia offers.

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Život grada CITY life

01 Fjodor Stepanovič Rokotov Portret carice Katarine II., 1780.

Portrait of Empress Catherine II of Russia, 1780 ∂ State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, 2018

Zagreb

02 Posjetitelji mogu vidjeti više od 1000 izložaka Over 1000 exhibits are exhibited 03 Vigilius Eriksen Portret Katarine II. u krunidbenoj haljini Portrait of Catherine the Great in Her Coronation Robe ∂ State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, 2018

Izložba Katarina Velika − carica svih Rusa Catherine the Great − The Empress of all Russia exhibition Provodite li ljetne dane u Zagrebu, nemojte preskočiti izložbu o jednoj od najmoćnijih žena u povijesti, carici Katarini II. (1729. − 1796.). Izložba je posebno osmišljena za prostore Galerije Klovićevi dvori te pruža presjek jedinstvenoga razdoblja ruske povijesti prikazujući caričine osobne predmete, predmete iz svakodnevnoga života, vladanja, kao i umjetnička djela koje je prikupljala kao strastvena kolekcionarka i time utemeljila jednu od najvećih i najvažnijih zbirki svijeta. Izložba

01

uvodno predstavlja i jedan od najvećih svjetskih muzeja, Ermitaž, grad St. Peterburg iz onoga doba te stanje u Rusiji i Europi za vrijeme Katarinine vladavine, a potom kroz nekoliko zanimljivih tema priča priču o Katarini.

Koncept izložbe za Klovićeve dvore rezultat je zajedničke suradnje stručnjaka iz Muzeja Ermitaž i Galerije Klovićevi dvori, kustosica Natalije Bakhtareve, Ive Sudec Andreis i Danijele Marković.

Posjetitelji na dvije etaže Galerije Klovićevi dvori mogu vidjeti više od 1000

02

U povodu obilježavanja 50. obljetnice prijateljstva gradova St. Peterburga i Zagreba, koji su povezani i letovima Croatia Airlinesa, u zagrebačkoj Galeriji Klovićevi dvori postavljena je zadivljujuća izložba o carici Katarini Velikoj. Eksponati su pristigli iz muzeja Ermitaž u St. Peterburgu, a izložba u Klovićevim dvorima otvorena je do 29. srpnja.

Marking the 50th anniversary of friendship between St. Petersburg and Zagreb, which are also linked with Croatia Airlines flights, a fascinating exhibition on Catherine the Great, Empress of Russia, has been mounted at the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery in Zagreb. The exhibits come from the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg. The exhibition is open until 29th July.

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03

izložaka. Saznat će zanimljivosti o Katarininu životu te dolasku u Rusiju i na prijestolje, o precima, carskoj obitelji i dvoru, njezinoj velikoj ulozi u obrazovanju i prosvjetiteljstvu, vanjskoj politici i

TZGZ/Zagreb Tourist Board, Galerija Klovićevi dvori/Klovićevi Dvori Gallery

04

ratovima koje je vodila, a ponajprije će moći osjetiti caričinu strast za umjetnošću, koja ju je dovela do otkupa mnogih zbirki i osnivanja Ermitaža.

Osim veličanstvenim carskim portretima i djelima slikarstva europskih škola, izložba obiluje skulpturama, grafikama, odjevnim predmetima carice i ostalih pripadnika dvora, predmetima umjetničkoga obrta (staklo, keramika, servisi, srebro, zlato), medaljama, oružjem, namještajem i dragocjenostima. Izložba Katarina Velika vrhunski je umjetnički doživljaj ne samo za Hrvatsku nego i za posjetitelje iz inozemstva te na najbolji način potvrđuje kulturnu suradnju i prijateljstvo između Zagreba i St. Peterburga.

If you’re spending your summer in Zagreb, make sure you visit an exhibition of one of the most powerful women in history, Catherine the Great (1729-1796). The exhibition has been tailor-made to suit the premises of the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, and provides a cross-section of a unique period of Russian history, exhibiting the Empress’s personal items, items of everyday life and reign, and works of art that she collected as a passionate art collector, having thus established one of the largest and most important art collections in the world. The exhibition first introduces one of the world’s largest museums, the State Hermitage Museum, then the City of St. Petersburg, and the state of affairs of Russia and Europe during Catherine’s reign. It then tells the story of Catherine the Great through several fascinating themes.

The concept of the exhibition set-up for the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery is the result of joint collaboration between experts from the State Hermitage Museum and the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, curators Natalia Bakhtareva, Iva Sudec Andreis and Danijela Marković. There are over 1000 exhibits displayed on two floors of the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery. They tell a fascinating story about Catherine’s life, her arrival in Russia and coming to the throne, about her ancestors, the imperial family and the court, about her great role in education and enlightenment,

foreign policy and the wars she fought, but, above all, about the Empress’s great passion for art, which led her to purchase many collections and found the State Hermitage Museum.

In addition to magnificent imperial portraits and paintings by European schools of painting, the exhibition also features many sculptures, etchings, garments worn by the Empress herself and other members of the court, different items of craftsmanship (glassware, ceramics, tableware, silver and gold items), medals, weapons, furniture and other valuables. The Catherine the Great exhibition offers a superb artistic experience to both local and foreign visitors, and testifies brilliantly to the cultural collaboration and friendship between Zagreb and St. Petersburg.

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04 Par vaza s poklopcima i cvjetnim uzorkom, 1780. − 1796.

A pair of vases with lids and a floral pattern, 1780-1796 ∂ State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, 2018 05 Francuska haljina robe à la française, 1760.

A sack-back gown or robe à la française ∂ State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, 2018 06 Predmeti iz servisa za svakodnevnu upotrebu, druga polovica 18. stoljeća Everyday teaware items, second half of the 18th century ∂ State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, 2018 06

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Život grada CITY life Zagreb

Ne propustite Zagreb Classic

J. Duval

Make sure you visit Zagreb Classic

Lovers of classical art and a positive atmosphere will be delighted by Zagreb Classic, a festival organised during summer in Zagreb, combining recognisable urban spaces with art content. Under the open sky, on the beautiful lawn of the idyllic park on King Tomislav Square, classical and popular music concerts are held, symphony and jazz orchestras perform, operas are sung, and old movies screened, all offering a wonderful opportunity to spend time outdoors. Zagreb Classic is an open-air classical music festival, opening on 20th June and closing on 10th July this year within the framework of Zagreb’s Summer of Culture − ZgKul. Entry to all programmes is free of charge, so grab a picnic blanket, bring your friends and enjoy Zagreb Classic!

D. Rostuhar

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Ljubitelje klasične umjetnosti i pozitivne atmosfere oduševit će Zagreb Classic, festival koji se u Zagrebu organizira ljeti, a spaja prepoznatljiv gradski prostor s umjetničkim sadržajem. Pod vedrim nebom, na prekrasnome travnjaku idiličnoga parka na Trgu kralja Tomislava, održavaju se koncerti na kojima nastupaju zvijezde klasične i zabavne glazbe, simfonijski i jazz orkestri, izvode se opere, prikazuju stari filmovi i nudi lijepa prigoda za boravak na otvorenome. Zagreb Classic festival je klasične glazbe na otvorenome, a ove godine održava se od 20. lipnja do 10. srpnja u sklopu Zagrebačkog kulturnog ljeta − ZgKul. Ulaz na sve programe besplatan je, stoga ponesite dekice, povedite prijatelje i ne propustite Zagreb Classic!

J. Duval

01 Trg kralja Tomislava, ljubitelji klasične glazbe uživaju na otvorenome King Tomislav Square, classical music lovers enjoying themselves outdoors

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02 Koncerti se održavaju na prekrasnome travnjaku idiličnog parka Concerts are held on the beautiful lawn of an idyllic park

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Život grada CITY life Zagreb

Crossover festival za sva čula Crossover Festival for all the senses 01

Piše/By _ Ozren Kanceljak Fotografije/Photos _ Domagoj Mokrović

Jedan od najljepših zagrebačkih parkova Ribnjak i ovoga će ljeta dobiti svoj jedinstveni i zanimljivi Crossover festival na kojem se predstavljaju umjetnici koji prožimaju i spajaju elemente različitih kultura.

Na pozornici smještenoj ispod starih srednjovjekovnih zidina Kaptola od 25. do 29. srpnja predstavit će se glazbenici iz Velike Britanije, Grčke, Australije, Njemačke, Austrije, Italije, Kosova i, naravno, Hrvatske.

Festival će otvoriti kosovski Gipsy Groove, koji su prema svim ocjenama imali najuzbudljiviji nastup prošlogodišnjeg festivala.

Najatraktivnije ime s popisa ovogodišnjih izvođača zasigurno je duo Smoove & Turrell, koji ovaj put dolaze u pratnji četveročlanog benda. Domaće će snage predvoditi višestruki dobitnici najuglednije hrvatske glazbene nagrade Porin, elektro jazz projekt Chui Tonija Starešinića.

Glazbu će svih dana pratiti i odgovarajuća multikulti gastronomska ponuda, što će omogućiti uživanje u Crossover festivalu svim čulima u prekrasnom zelenom ambijentu u centru grada.

Ribnjak, one of Zagreb’s most beautiful parks, is again the venue of Crossover Festival, an interesting, one-of-a-kind culture fest featuring artists who combine and blend elements of different cultures.

From 25th to 29th July, on a stage set up under the old medieval walls of Kaptol, musicians from the UK, Greece, Australia,

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Germany, Austria, Italy, Kosovo and, of course, Croatia will be performing.

The festival is opening with the Kosovobased Gipsy Groove band, whose last year’s performance at the festival was judged to be the most exciting one.

The biggest and most attractive name performing at this year’s festival is most certainly the Smoove & Turrell duo, who are performing with a four-man band this time round. As far as domestic performers are concerned, Toni Starešinić’s Chui electrojazz project and multiple winner of the most prestigious Croatian music award, Porin, is the festival’s highlight.

All music performances are accompanied by a multicultural food offer, making you be able to enjoy Crossover Festival with all your senses surrounded by beautiful greenery in the city centre.

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01 Bajram Kafu Kinolli na prošlogodišnjem Crossover festivalu Bajram Kafu Kinolli performing at last year’s Crossover Festival 02 − 03 Grupa Gipsy Groove otvorit će ovogodišnji festival Gipsy Groove is opening this year’s festival 04 Mirsad Dalipi, jedan od najboljih hrvatskih bubnjara Mirsad Dalipi, one of the best Croatian drummers

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Život grada CITY life

Dalmacija

Kino Mediteran

Piše/By _ Alen Munitić Fotografije/Photos _ Nika Tecilazić, Maja Prgomet 01

Kino Mediteran nastao je iz želje da se u dalmatinske otočke i obalne gradove vrati film na velika platna te da se ujedno donese dio atmosfere Festivala mediteranskog filma Split. Tako će već sedmu sezonu publika u 25 gradova moći uživati u najkvalitetnijim europskim i svjetskim filmskim ostvarenjima, i to na više od 500 filmskih projekcija.

Iako je riječ o cjelogodišnjem projektu, u lipnju se službeno otvara ljetna sezona.

Publika će moći pogledati pobjedničke filmove najvećih svjetskih festivala u prekrasnome ambijentu. Iz kina u Bolu pruža se pogled na Hvar i brodove, u Hvaru kino je smješteno u tvrđavu Veneranda, u Korčuli je dio gradskih zidina, a na Lastovu i Mljetu savršeno uklopljeno u prirodni ambijent. Idealnom će odmoru osim mora, sunca i plaže zacijelo pridonijeti i zanimljive filmske večeri, a uživanje u filmovima publici će olakšati i dvojezični titlovi.

I moje misto ima svoje kino! slogan je projekta, a više informacija potražite na stranici www.kinomediteran.hr

The Kino Mediteran (Mediterranean Cinema in translation) project was born out of the desire to bring big screen movies back to the islands of Dalmatia and coastal towns, and to take some of the atmosphere of the Split Mediterranean Film Festival along. Accordingly, for the seventh season in a row, audiences in 25 cities are given the chance to enjoy watching some of the highest quality European and international film productions in over 500 screenings.

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Although this is a year-round project, the summer season officially opens in June.

Audiences will be able to watch movies awarded at the world’s biggest film festivals in stunning surroundings: in Bol in a cinema overlooking the Island of Hvar and boats, in Hvar in the surroundings of the Veneranda Fortress, in Korčula’s cinema embedded in the city walls, and in Lastovo and Mljet’s cinemas perfectly blended into a natural setting... Except the sea, the sun and the beach, these great movie evenings are bound to contribute to your perfect summer holiday. All the movies are subtitled in English. Find your open air cinema! is the slogan of the project. For more information, please visit www.kinomediteran.hr.

01 Plakat Kina Mediteran (autorica Nika Tecilazić) Mediterranean Cinema poster (by Nika Tecilazić) 02 Festival mediteranskog filma Split, 2017. (autorica Maja Prgomet − Studio Testudo) 2017 Split Mediterranean Film Festival (by Maja Prgomet − Studio Testudo)

The imperial city

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Život grada CITY life Šibenik

SPFF Festival glazbenog dokumentarnog filma A music documentary film festival Piše/By _ Ozren Kanceljak

From 3rd to 7th July, Šibenik’s renovated St. Michael’s and Barone Fortresses are hosting the 9th Solo Positivo Film Festival, an international music documentary film festival.

So far, the festival has hosted a large number of authors, such as Oscar-winners Roger Ross Williams and Malcolm Clarke, Sting and award-winning directors, such as Pjer Žalica and Slobodan Šijan, actors Sergej

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Trifunović and Emir Hadžihafizbegović, as well as such musicians as Arsen Dedić, Vlatko Stefanovski, Zoran Predin, Edin Karamazov and many others.

This year’s festival is showing documentaries about Eric Clapton and Oasis, a UK rock band. Audiences will also be able to enjoy exceptional movie productions, as well as short live music intermissions, such as a concert given by the increasingly popular regional music attraction called Filmmusicorkestar. This year’s jury members are film director Abi Lewis from the UK, the Šibenik-born actress Oriana Kunčić, and one of the best Slovenian film directors Janez Burger, who’ll be chairing the jury.

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01 Pozornica šibenske tvrđave The stage of Šibenik’s fortress 02 − 03 Koncertna izvedba filmske glazbe grupe Filmmusicorkestar i film o grupi Oasis dio su programa SPFF-a Filmmusicorkestar’s concert performance of film music and a film about Oasis are part of SPFF’s programme

Arhiva SPFF-a / SPFF archives

Obnovljene šibenske tvrđave Sv. Mihovila i Barone od 3. do 7. srpnja ugostit će već deveti međunarodni festival glazbenog dokumentarnog filma − Solo Positivo Film Festival.

Festival je do sada doveo velik broj autora poput oscarovaca Rogera Rossa Williamsa i Malcolma Clarkea, Stinga te nagrađivane redatelje kao što su Pjer Žalica i Slobodan Šijan. Ondje su gostovali i glumci Sergej Trifunović i Emir Hadžihafizbegović te glazbenici Arsen Dedić, Vlatko Stefanovski, Zoran Predin, Edin Karamazov i brojni drugi.

Festival će ponuditi dokumentarce o Ericu Claptonu i grupi Oasis, a publika će moći uživati u iznimnim filmskim ostvarenjima, kao i glazbenim minijaturama poput koncerta sve popularnije regionalne glazbene atrakcije pod nazivom Filmmusicorkestar. Žirijem će predsjedati jedan od ponajboljih slovenskih redatelja Janez Burger, a s njime će surađivati i engleska redateljica Abi Lewis te glumica, rođena Šibenčanka Oriana Kunčić.

Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, 21000 Split, Croatia tel/fax: +385 (0)21 490 032, 490 033, 490 036

www.dalmatia.hr • info@dalmatia.hr

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Lipanj June

Osijek i okolica Osijek and surroundings

Srpanj July

Pula i okolica Pula and surroundings

Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings

Osječko ljeto kulture Osijek’s Summer of Culture

Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings

29. Croatia Open Umag

Šezdesete u Hrvatskoj − Mit i stvarnost The Sixties in Croatia − Myth and Reality

Do / Until 30. 9., Zagreb Ova je izložba središnji izložbeni projekt Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt ove godine te prikazuje presjek jednoga turbulentnog razdoblja hrvatske povijesti i daje jedan od najcjelovitijih uvida u ključno razdoblje novije hrvatske povijesti od 1958. do 1971. godine./This year’s central exhibition project mounted by the Museum of Arts and Crafts is a cross-section of a turbulent period of Croatian history, giving one of the most rounded-off insights into a key period of recent Croatian history from 1958 to 1971. www.muo.hr

29. 6. − 12 . 7., Osijek Ovaj je kazališno-umjetnički festival najveći u istočnoj Hrvatskoj, a započinje na blagdan nebeskih zaštitnika grada Osijeka, sv. Petra i Pavla, u staroj baroknoj Tvrđi.

Na više lokacija možete pogledati kazališne i kino predstave, izložbe, performanse i druga zanimljiva kulturno-umjetnička događanja./This festival is the largest art and theatre festival in eastern Croatia opening on the feast day of the patron saints of the City of Osijek, St. Peter and Paul, in the old Baroque Fort. At many different locations theatrical performances are staged, films are screened, and exhibitions, performances and other interesting culture and art events are held. www.tzosijek.hr Dubrovnik i okolica Dubrovnik and surroundings

M.Krivić

Midsummer Scene

* Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara. * Allow for possible changes after this issue has gone to press.

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Do / Until 4. 7., Dubrovnik Riječ je o etabliranome festivalu teatra na engleskome jeziku koji se odvija na jednoj od najljepših ambijentalnih pozornica, na dubrovačkoj tvrđavi Lovrijenac. Prikazuju se poznate Shakespeareove drame kroz uspješnu suradnju engleskih i hrvatskih kazališnih umjetnika./This is an acclaimed English-language theatre festival, which takes place on one of the most beautiful open-air stages − in Dubrovnik’s Lovrijenac Fort. The festival showcases Shakespeare’s famed dramas, staged successfully in coproduction between English and Croatian theatre artists. midsummer-scene.com

Svjetski kongres saksofonista World Saxophone Congress

10. − 14. 7., Zagreb Prigoda je za susret vrhunskih glazbenih profesionalaca, studenata i amatera, saksofonista svih stilova i glazbenih izričaja od klasike i jazza do etna i world glazbe. Program se izvodi na pozornicama i javnim prostorima, a poseban je naglasak na edukativnim programima za djecu i mlade saksofoniste./This is a unique opportunity to meet top professional musicians, students and amateurs, saxophonists of all styles and musical expressions, ranging from classical music and jazz to ethnic and world music. The concerts are played on stages and public venues, with special emphasis placed on education programmes intended for children and young saxophonists. zagrebsaxcongress.com Rijeka i okolica Rijeka and surroundings 18. Liburnia Jazz Festival

6. − 8. 7., Opatija Ovaj je festival već godinama referentna točka hrvatskoga i europskoga jazza. Tijekom festivala jazz glazba može se čuti s gotovo svake terase, ali i s mora budući da opatijskim akvatorijem tada plovi popularni Jazz Boat./This festival has for years been a reference point for both Croatian and European jazz. During the festival, jazz music is played on almost every terrace, and is also listened to on the popular Jazz Boat sailing in the waters of Opatija. www.liburniajazz.hr

13. − 22. 7., Umag Ljetni ATP turnir koji se održava u Umagu vrhunac je turističke sezone u sjeverozapadnoj Istri i jedan od najvažnijih sportskih i društvenih događaja u Hrvatskoj. I ove godine u Umag dolaze mnogi tenisači svjetskog ranga kao i ljubitelji bijelog sporta./Held in Umag, the Summer ATP World Tour Tournament is the highlight of the tourist season in north-western Istria, and one of the most important sporting and social events in Croatia in general. This year, Umag is again hosting many world-class tennis players and countless tennis fans. www.croatiaopen.hr Pula Film Festival

14. − 22. 7., Pula Ovaj će se atraktivni festival ove godine održati 65. put. Ako ste ljubitelj sedme umjetnosti, ovo ljeto posjetite osebujnu pulsku Arenu i pogledajte film pod zvjezdanim nebom./This is the 65th edition of the famous Pula Film Festival. If you’re a big fan of the seventh art, make sure you visit the Pula Arena this summer and watch a film under the starry sky. www.pulafilmfestival.hr 19. Festival plesa i neverbalnog kazališta 19th Dance and Nonverbal Theatre Festival

19. − 22. 7., Svetvinčenat Riječ je o jedinome ljetnom plesnom festivalu u Hrvatskoj i tradicionalnome okupljalištu mnogih plesnih umjetnika i pedagoga te brojne i odane publike./ This is the only summer dance

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festival in Croatia, and traditionally gathers countless dance artists and pedagogues, as well as multiple and committed audiences. www.svetvincenatfestival.com Motovun Film Festival

24. − 28. 7., Motovun Festival je posvećen filmovima nastalima u malim kinematografijama i nezavisnim produkcijama koji su se nametnuli inovativnošću, idejom i snagom svojih priča. Festival nastoji prikazati što različitije filmove koji se teže probijaju do kinodvorana i gledatelja./The festival is dedicated primarily to films coming from small cinematographies and independent productions, films that excel in their innovative approach, ideas and powerful stories, and films that have a hard time finding their way to cinemas and audiences. www.motovunfilmfestival.com Zadar i okolica Zadar and surroundings

20. PagArtFestival

31. 7. − 17. 8., otok Pag / Island of Pag Na festivalu vas očekuju koncerti probranih glazbenika iz Hrvatske, Češke, Slovenije i Francuske, na raznim lokacijama na Pagu: u starome gradu Pagu, Kolanu i Vrtovima lunjskih maslina, među stoljetnim stablima, pod zvjezdanim nebom… Izvodit će se orkestralna, solistička i komorna glazba u crkvama, dvoranama i pod vedrim nebom./The festival is bringing concerts by superb musicians from Croatia, the Czech Republic, Slovenia and France, played at various locations on the Island of Pag: in the old Town of Pag, the town of Kolan and the Olive Gardens of Lun, amongst centuries-old olive trees under the starry sky... The rep-

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ertoire includes orchestral, solo and chamber music played in churches, halls and under the open sky. www.lovropogorelich.net Šibenik i okolica Šibenik and surroundings

zabave i prekrasnih bolskih plaža./ For the seventh year in a row, the town of Bol will become the capital of street art and culture, gathering some of the best graffiti and street artists, regional hip-hop artists and designers, and audiences looking to have a bit of fun and to enjoy Bol’s beautiful beaches. www.facebook.com/GraffitiNaGradele 69. Dubrovačke ljetne igre 69th Dubrovnik Summer Festival

Koncert Maksima Mrvice Maksim Mrvica in concert

14. 7., Šibenik U sklopu svjetske turneje i promocije novoga albuma New Silk Road poslušajte Maksima i na našoj tvrđavi svetog Mihovila u Šibeniku. Album je snimljen u legendarnom studiju Abbey Road u Londonu s Mađarskom nacionalnom filharmonijom. Prepustite se vrhunskoj crossover izvedbi./ Šibenik’s St. Michael’s Fortress is one of Maksim’s stops on his touring the world and promoting his latest album, New Silk Road. The album was recorded in the legendary Abbey Road Studios in London with the Hungarian National Philharmonic Orchestra. Treat yourself to an ultimate crossover performance. www.maksim.co.uk Split i okolica Split and surroundings

Graffiti na Gradele

26. − 28. 7., Bol na Braču / Bol on the Island of Brač Sedmi put zaredom Bol će postati centar ulične umjetnosti i kulture, na kojemu će se okupiti neki od najboljih graffiti i street umjetnika, regionalnih hip-hop glazbenika i dizajnera te publika željna dobre

10. 7. − 25. 8., Dubrovnik Igre će i ove godine okupiti ponajbolje dramske, glazbene, baletne, folklorne, likovne i filmske umjetnike iz cijeloga svijeta. Izrastajući iz bogate baštine grada Dubrovnika, Igre postaju središte kulturnih događanja./The festival is featuring the best drama, music, ballet, folklore, visual and film artists from around the world. Growing out of Dubrovnik’s rich heritage, the festival transforms Dubrovnik into a cultural mecca. www.dubrovnik-festival.hr

Kolovoz August Varaždin i okolica Varaždin and surroundings Špancirfest

17. − 26. 8., Varaždin Svoju je priču ovaj festival dobrih emocija započeo kao prvi ulični festival u Hrvatskoj, a danas je jedno od najposjećenijih nacionalnih festivalskih događanja. Festival okuplja profesionalne i amaterske umjetnike iz cijeloga svijeta, a varaždinsku povijesnu jezgru pretvara u umjetničku radionicu u kojoj sudjeluju i posjetitelji./This festival of good vibes started telling its story as the first street festival in Croatia, and has grown into one of the most popular national festivals. The festival brings together professional and amateur artists from around the world, and transforms Varaždin’s historical city centre into an art workshop equally participated in by both visitors and artists. spancirfest.com

Zadar i okolica Zadar and surroundings 10. Monoplay festival u Zadru 10th Monoplay Festival in Zadar

20. − 24. 8., Zadar Monoplay festival ove godine obilježava desetu godišnjicu te donosi dosad najbogatiji program plesnih predstava, radionica, razgovora s publikom te večernjih druženja i koncerata. Specifičnost Monoplaya jest programacija isključivo solo predstava, a tijekom deset godina postojanja razvio se u jedan od najznačajnijih plesnih festivala u Hrvatskoj i regiji.

Program se održava u Zadarskom kazalištu lutaka te ove godine očekujemo neka od najznačajnijih imena hrvatske i europske plesne scene poput Xaviera Le Roya, Matije Ferlina, Sanne Myllylahti i druge./This year’s tenth edition of Monoplay Festival is bringing the richest programme ever of dance performances, workshops, conversations with audiences, and evening concerts and socialising. Monoplay’s specificity is that it programmes only solo shows. During the ten years of its existence, it has developed into one of the most important dance festivals in Croatia and the region.

The programme is held at the Zadar Puppet Theatre, and this year some of the leading names of the Croatian and European dance scenes, such as Xavier Le Roy, Matija Ferlin, Sanna Myllylahti and others, are expected to perform. www.monoplay.eu Split i okolica Split and surroundings

Brač Film Festival

8. − 10. 8., Supetar na Braču / Supetar on the Island of Brač Ovaj međunarodni festival igranoga filma donosi nam najbolje naslove europske kinematografije. Selekcija uključuje projekcije za djecu, dugome-

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tražne igrane filmove i kratkometražne filmove studenata filmskih akademija koji se prikazuju u otvorenu kinu pod zvjezdanim nebom./This international film festival is bringing the best productions of European cinematography. The festival’s selection includes children’s, feature and short films by film academy students screened in an open-air cinema under the starry sky. bracfilmfestival.hr Sounding D.I.Y.

7. − 21. 8., Split U Multimedijalnom kulturnom centru Split Udruga Siva zona organizira izložbu i performanse pod nazivom Sounding D.I.Y., koji opisuje metodu nastanka umjetničkih radova hrvatskih i engleskih autora koji sami sastavljaju zanimljive sustave koji proizvode zvuk. U izboru kustosa Laure Netz i Darka Fritza sudjeluju umjetnici Tin Dožić, Claude Heiland-Allen, Noise Orchestra, Bioni Samp, Hrvoje Hiršl i Davor Branimir Vincze. Uz ove će se autore predstaviti i audio

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izdanje elektronische-art-and-music pod nazivom Sounding D.i.Y. /At the Split Multimedia Culture Centre, the Siva Zona (Grey Zone) Association is organising an exhibition and performances entitled Sounding D.I.Y., describing the method of creating artworks by Croatian and English authors who compose interesting systems themselves that create sound.

Curators Laura Netz and Darko Fritz’s selection includes artists Tin Dožić, Claude Heiland-Allen, Noise Orchestra, Bioni Samp, Hrvoje Hiršl and Davor Branimir Vincze. Along these authors, an audio edition of Elektronische-Art-and-Music entitled Sounding D.i.Y. will also be presented. sivazona.hr Sinjska alka Alka Tournament of Sinj

3. − 5. 8., Sinj Sinjska alka hrvatska je viteška igra, odnosno natjecanje konjanika u gađanju alke kopljem. Alka se održava svake prve nedjelje u kolovozu u čast svoje nebeske

zaštitnice, Gospe Sinjske, koja je prema predaji otjerala Osmanlije.

Sinjska alka uvrštena je 2010. godine na Unescov popis nematerijalne svjetske baštine./The Alka Tournament of Sinj is a Croatian chivalry game with horsemen competing in shooting the alka with a spear. It is held on the first Sunday of August each year in honour of Sinj’s patron saint, the Madonna of Sinj, who, according to legend, chased off the Ottoman Army. The Alka Tournament of Sinj was included in UNESCO’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2010. www.visitsinj.com

Rujan September Gospić i okolica Gospić and surroundings

Srce Velebita − Uspon na Tulove grede 2018.

The Heart of Velebit − Ascending Tulove Grede 2018

15. − 16. 9.

U jednom od najljepših dijelova Like, općini Lovinac podno Velebita, na stazama različite težine održava se ova natjecateljska biciklijada u ženskoj i muškoj kategoriji. Nakon utrke i proglašenja pobjednika organiziran je raznovrstan program, večernji After bike party te živa svirka do dugo u noć s pogledom na očaravajuće vrhove Velebita./In one of the most beautiful parts of the region of Lika, the municipality of Lovinac at the foot of Mount Velebit, a women’s and men’s bike race is held on different grade bike trails.

The race and the announcement of the winner are followed by different events, an evening After Bike Party and live music played into the small hours with a view of the enchanting peaks of Velebit. outdoorlab.hr

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To je Hrvatska Re­pu­bli­ka Hrvat­ska smjeπte­na je uz istoË­ nu oba­lu Ja­dran­skog mo­ra i u nje­go­vu za­le­u. Pro­teæe se od obro­na­ka Al­pa na sje­ve­ro­za­pa­du do pa­non­ske rav­ni­ce na isto­ku. Povrπina je nje­zi­na kop­na 56.542 Ëe­tvor­na ki­lo­me­tra, a povrπina te­ri­to­ rijalnog mo­ra 31.067 Ëe­tvor­nih ki­lo­me­ta­ra.

U Hrvatskoj æivi, pre­ma po­pi­su iz 2011. go­di­ne, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je mor­ske oba­le 5835 km za­jed­no s oto­ci­ma, oto­Ëi­Êi­ma i gre­be­ni­ma. Oto­ka, oto­Ëi­Êa i gre­be­na ima 1185, a na­se­lje­no je 47 oto­ka.

Sluæbe­ni je­zik je­st hrvat­ski, a pi­smo la­ti­niË­ no. Nov­Ëa­na je­di­ni­ca − ku­na.

Glav­ni je grad Za­greb (790.017 sta­nov­ ni­ka), ko­ji je ujed­no ad­mi­ni­s­tra­tiv­no, kul­tur­no, aka­dem­sko i trgo­vaË­ko sre­diπte zem­lje. Hrvat­ska je međunarodno priznata 15. siječnja 1992. godine, a od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica je Europske unije.

This is Croatia The Re­pu­blic of Cro­a­tia li­es along the ea­st co­a­st of the Adri­at­ic Sea and its hin­ter­land.

It stret­ches from the slo­pes of the Al­ps in the nor­th-we­st to the Pan­no­ni­an Pla­in in the ea­st. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its ter­ri­to­ri­al sea is 31,067 km2.

According to the 2011 cen­sus, Cro­a­tia’s popu­la­ti­on was 4,284,889. The len­gth of its sea co­a­st is 5835 km, in­clu­ding islan­ds, islets and re­efs.

The­re are 1185 islan­ds, islets and re­efs, of which 47 islan­ds are in­ha­bi­ted.

The of­fi­ci­al lan­gu­a­ge is Cro­a­ti­an, and the of­fi­ ci­al script is La­tin. The cur­ren­cy is the Ku­na.

The ca­pi­tal is Za­greb (790,017 in­ha­bi­tan­ts), which is al­so the co­un­try’s ad­mi­ni­s­tra­ti­ve, cul­tu­ral, aca­de­mic and eco­no­mic cen­ter.

The Con­sti­tu­ti­on of the Re­pu­blic of Cro­a­tia was adop­ted on 22 De­cem­ber 1990, and the co­untry re­ce­i­ved in­ter­na­ti­o­nal re­cog­ni­ti­ on on 15 Ja­nu­ary 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013.

Nacionalni parkovi ­­Hrvat­ska ima osam na­ci­o­nal­nih par­ko­va, od kojih su Ëe­ti­ri u pla­nin­skom po­dru­Ëju (Pa­kle­ni­ca, Pli­tviËka je­ze­ra, Ri­snjak i Sje­ ver­ni Ve­le­bit), a Ëe­ti­ri na obal­nom po­dru­Ëju (Bri­ju­ni, Kor­na­ti, Krka i Mljet). Nji­ma, kao

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pro­stor oso­bi­to vri­jed­ne pri­rod­ne baπti­ne, tre­ba pri­do­da­ti i po­dru­Ëja pod stro­gom zaπti­tom pri­ro­de, re­zer­va­te, spo­me­ni­ke pri­ro­de, par­ko­ve pri­ro­de. Zbog svih njih Hrvat­sku mno­gi sma­tra­ju jed­nim od naj­ ljepπih eu­rop­skih vrto­va.

National parks Cro­a­tia has eig­ht na­ti­o­nal par­ks, fo­ur of which are lo­ca­ted in the mo­un­ta­in re­gi­on (Pa­kle­ni­ca, Pli­tvi­ce La­kes, Ri­snjak and Nor­ thern Ve­le­bit), and fo­ur in the co­a­stal re­gi­on (Bri­ju­ni, Kor­na­ti, Krka and Mljet). Be­si­des the­se, cer­ta­in are­as un­der strict na­tu­re pro­ tec­ti­on ∑ re­ser­ves, na­tu­ral mo­nu­men­ts and na­tu­ral par­ks ∑ sho­uld be men­ti­o­ned as a na­tu­ral he­ri­ta­ge of spe­ci­al va­lue. They ha­ve all con­tri­bu­ted to Cro­a­tia’s be­ing con­si­de­red one of the mo­st be­a­u­ti­ful gar­dens of Eu­ro­pe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvat­ska obi­lu­je kul­tur­no-po­vi­je­snim spo­ me­ni­ci­ma iz svih ra­zdob­lja zbog bur­nih po­vi­je­snih zbi­va­nja i pre­ple­ta­nja utje­ca­ja ra­zli­Ëi­tih kul­tu­ra. Nje­zi­nu oba­lu ka­rak­te­ri­ zi­ra­ju utje­ca­ji me­di­te­ran­ske kul­tu­re, mno­gi an­tiË­ki spo­me­ni­ci, spo­me­ni­ci iz rim­skog ra­zdob­lja i ra­no­ga sred­njeg vi­je­ka, ro­ma­ niË­ko-sa­kral­na baπti­na te niz oËu­va­nih ka­rak­te­ri­stiË­nih me­di­te­ran­skih ur­ba­nih cje­li­na. Kon­ti­nen­tal­na Hrvat­ska dio je sred­ njo­e­u­rop­sko­ga kul­tur­nog kru­ga i isti­Ëe se mno­gim pra­po­vi­je­snim na­la­zi­ma sv­jet­ ske vaæno­sti, sta­rim gra­do­vi­ma, utvrda­ ma i dvor­ci­ma ka­sno­ga sred­njeg vi­je­ka, kul­tur­nim spo­me­ni­ci­ma i ar­hi­tek­tu­rom iz ra­zdob­lja ba­ro­ka.

Tri hrvat­ske ur­ba­ne cje­li­ne i dva spo­me­ niË­ka kom­plek­sa ima­ju sta­tus spo­me­ni­ka sv­jet­ske kul­tur­ne baπti­ne, ko­ji do­dje­lju­je Une­sco. To su ka­sno­an­tiË­ka Di­o­kle­ci­ja­no­ va pa­la­Ëa, pre­gra­e­na ti­je­kom sto­lje­Êa u sred­njov­je­kov­ni Split, gra­do­vi Du­brov­nik i Tro­gir te Eu­fra­zi­je­va ba­zi­li­ka u Po­re­Ëu i ka­te­dra­la sv. Ja­ko­va u ©ibe­ni­ku.

Na­ci­o­nal­ni park Pli­tviË­ka je­ze­ra, naj­ljepπi i najpozna­ti­ji hrvat­ski na­ci­o­nal­ni park, ta­ko­ er je dio Une­sco­ve Sv­jet­ske baπti­ne.

A past for the present Cro­a­tia is rich in cul­tu­ral and hi­sto­ri­cal monuments from all eras, due to the tur­bu­

lent even­ts of hi­story and the in­ter­la­cing of in­flu­en­ces of dif­fe­rent cul­tu­res. Its co­a­st is cha­rac­te­ri­zed by the in­flu­ences of Me­di­ter­ ra­ne­an cul­tu­re, nu­me­ro­us an­ci­ent re­ma­ins, mo­nu­men­ts of the Ro­man era and ear­ly Mid­dle Ages, a Ro­ma­ne­sque chur­ch he­ri­ta­ ge and a num­ber of di­stin­cti­ve Me­di­ter­ra­ne­ an ur­ban en­ti­ti­es that ha­ve be­en pre­ser­ ved. Inland Cro­a­tia is a part of the Cen­tral Eu­ro­pe­an cul­tu­ral circle and is di­stin­gu­i­shed by nu­me­ro­us pre­hi­sto­ric fin­din­gs of wor­ld sig­ni­fi­cance, by old tow­ns, for­tre­sses and ca­st­les da­ting from the la­te Mid­dle Ages, and cul­tu­ral mo­nu­men­ts and ar­chi­tec­tu­re from the Ba­ro­que era.

Three Cro­a­ti­an ci­ti­es and two mo­nu­men­tal com­-ple­xes ha­ve the sta­tus of mo­nu­men­ts of wor­ld cul­tu­ral he­ri­ta­ge ac­cor­ded by UNE­ SCO. The­se are the La­te An­ti­que Pa­la­ce of Di­o­cle­ti­an, re­mo­de­led thro­ugh the cen­tu­ri­es in­to the me­di­ev­ al city of Split, the ci­ti­es of Du­brov­nik and Tro­gir, the Ba­si­li­ca of Eup­hra­ si­us in Po­reË and the Cat­he­dral of St. Jacob in ©ibe­nik.

The na­ti­o­nal park of the Pli­tvi­ce La­kes, Cro­ a­tia’s mo­st be­a­u­ti­ful and ce­le­bra­ted na­ti­o­nal park, is al­so a part of UNE­SCO’s wor­ld he­ri­ta­ge.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvat­ska je po­sljed­njih go­di­na − ocje­nju­ju meu­na­rod­ni tu­ri­stiË­ki znal­ci i sta­ti­sti­Ëa­ri − hit-odre­di­πte na Sre­do­zem­lju.

Hrvat­ska je bli­zu ne sa­mo zbog svoga geograf­skog smještaja ne­go i zbog mreæe zraË­nih lu­ka i kva­li­tet­nih uslu­ga na­ci­o­nal­ nog avi­o­pri­je­vo­zni­ka Croatia Air­li­ne­sa te dru­gih zraË­nih pri­je­vo­zni­ka. I zbog svoje mreæe au­to­ce­sta i po­lu­a­u­to­ce­sta Hrvat­ska je bliæa ne­go ikad. Ako ste pak oda­bra­li od­mor na jed­no­me od mno­gih hrvat­skih oto­ka, pri­je­voz tra­jek­tom ili hi­dro­gli­se­rom s kop­na tra­jat Êe − i kad su po­sri­je­di oni na­ju­da­lje­ni­ji − kraÊe od 2 sa­ta.

Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Cro­at­ia has be­en a hit de­sti­na­ti­on in the Me­ di­ter­ra­ne­an in the pa­st few ye­ars, say sta­ti­ sti­ci­ans and in­ter­na­ti­o­nal ex­per­ts in to­u­ri­sm.

Croatia is close not only because of its geographic position, but also because of

its network of airports and the top quality services provided by Croatia Airlines, its national carrier, as well as other airliners.

Also, due to its network of highways and semi-motorways, Croatia is closer than ever.

If you have decided to spend your vacation on any one of the numerous islands in Croatia, even the most distant ones, it will take less than 2 hours by ferry or hydrofoil from the mainland.

Novac i naËin plaÊanja Ku­na je na­ziv nov­Ëa­ne je­di­ni­ce Re­pu­bli­ ke Hrvat­ske. U op­tje­ca­ju su nov­Ëa­ni­ce

ku­na (kn) i ko­va­ni no­vac ku­na i li­pa (lp), (100 li­pa = 1 ku­na). Mo­gu­Êe je pla­Êa­nje kre­dit­nim kar ­ti­ca­ma (Di­ners, Vi­sa, Ame­ ri­can Ex­pre­ss, Eu­ro­card i Ma­ster­card) i eu­ro­Ëe­ko­vi­ma. No­vac se moæe po­di­za­ti i na ban­ko­ma­ti­ma.

card), as well as eu­ro-chec­ks. Ca­sh can be wit­hdrawn from AT­Ms.

Currency and payment methods The cur­ren­cy of the Re­pu­blic of Cro­a­tia is cal­led the Ku­na (kn). In cir­cu­la­ti­on are ban­kno­tes in Ku­na and co­ins in Ku­na and Li­pa (lp) ∑ one hun­dred­th. Pay­men­ts can be ma­de by cre­dit card (Di­ners, Vi­sa, Ame­ri­can Ex­pre­ss, Eu­ro­card and Ma­ster­

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalna / regular sezonska ljetna / seasonal in summer

motorway, fast roads toll station tunnel, bridge other main roads national parks nature parks international border crossing petrol stations (0-24) airports ferry routes UNESCO World Heritage

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Miles & More

Osnove programa Mi­les & Mo­re

Introducing Mi­les & Mo­re

Mi­les & Mo­re vode­Êi je europski pro­gram na­gra­i­va­nja čestih put­ni­ka i nu­di Ëla­no­vi­ma ra­zli­Ëi­te mo­guÊ­no­sti pri­kup­lja­nja mi­lja i ko­ri­πte­nja na­gra­da, kao i mno­ge priv­laË­ne po­god­no­sti. »la­no­vi pri­kup­lja­ju mi­lje ko­ri­ste­Êi se uslu­ga­ma broj­nih par­tne­ra u pro­gra­mu.

Mi­lje se bi­lje­æe za le­to­ve svih Ëla­ni­ca Star Al­li­an­cea i dru­gih kom­pa­ni­ja par­tne­ra, ali i za unaj­mlji­va­nje vo­zi­la, od­sje­da­nje u ho­te­li­ma ili po­tro­πnju pre­ko cobrand kre­ dit­nih kar­ti­ca Mi­les & Mo­re.

Miles & More is the leading european frequent flyer programme, offering its members numerous possibilites for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many at­trac­ti­ve pri­vi­le­ges.

Mem­bers col­lect mi­les by using the ser­vi­ces of many par­ tners in the pro­gram­me.

Mi­les are cre­di­ted for flig­hts of all Star Al­li­an­ce mem­bers and ot­her air­li­ne par­tners, but al­so for ren­ting ve­hi­cles from rent-a-car par­tners or sta­ying in par­ti­ci­pa­ting ho­tels.

Ra­zre­di Ëlan­s­t va i po­god­no­sti Koriπtenjem usluga partnera u programu Miles & More prikupljate nagradne milje koje se mogu iskoristiti za nagrade. Statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status, na temelju kojega ostvarujete pogodnosti, prikupljaju se na redovitim letovima prijevoznika Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Lufthansa Regional, Luxair, SWISS, i svim Star Alliance partnerima. Uz 35.000 sta­tu­snih mi­lja pri­kup­lje­nih u jed­noj ka­len­dar­skoj go­di­ni, ste­Êi Êe­te sta­ tus Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler, a za 100.000 sta­tu­snih mi­lja u ka­len­dar­skoj go­di­ni oËe­ku­je vas sta­tus Se­na­tor.

Ti­ers and be­ne­fits By using the Mi­les & Mo­re par­tners’ ser­vi­ces mem­bers col­lect awards. Status miles which determine a member’s membership status and privileges can be accrued on scheduled flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Lufthansa Regional, Luxair, SWISS, and all Star Alliance partners.

Every mi­le ac­cru­ed is re­cor­ded as both a sta­tus and an award mi­le. With 35,000 sta­tus mi­les col­lec­ted in one ca­len­dar ye­ar mem­bers acquire the Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler sta­tus, with 100,000 sta­tus mi­les the Se­na­tor sta­tus, and mem­bers who col­lect at le­a­st 600,000 HON CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

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»la­no­vi ko­ji pri­ku­pe naj­ma­nje 600.000 HON Cir­cle mi­lja u ra­zdob­lju od dvi­je uza­stop­ne ka­len­dar­ske go­di­ne, stje­Ëu sta­tus HON Cir­cle.

Cir­cle mi­les wit­hin two con­se­cu­ti­ve ca­len­dar ye­ars, acquire the HON Cir­cle sta­tus.

Osnovne pogodnosti Miles & More statusa

Miles & More benefits in brief

Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus − 25 posto više nagradnih, statusnih i HON Circle mi­lja - ne­o­gra­ni­Ëe­na va­lja­no­st na­grad­nih mi­lja za tra­ja­nja sta­tu­sa - pred­no­st na li­sti Ëe­ka­nja - pri­ja­va za let (check in) na πal­te­ru po­slov­nog ra­zre­da i veÊi iznos prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji.

Fre­qu­e nt Tra­vel­ler - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus of 25 % for award, status and HON Circle miles - Ac­cru­e d award mi­les ha­ve no ex­piry da­te

Se­na­tor - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus − 25 posto više nagradnih i statusnih HON Circle mi­lja - ne­o­gra­ni­Ëe­na va­lja­no­st na­grad­nih mi­lja za tra­ja­nja sta­tu­sa - pre­du­jam od 50.000 nagradnih mi­lja - upo­ra­ba airport lo­un­ge - vi­πi pri­o­ri­tet na li­sti Ëe­ka­nja - pri­ja­va za let (check in) na πal­te­ru prvog ra­zre­da - prednost pri ukrcaju i iskrcaju prtljage - dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - 2 e-vouchera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade), prilikom postizanja statusa Senator te prilikom svake obnove statusa

Se­na­tor - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus of 25% for award, status and HON Circle miles - Ac­cru­e d award mi­les ha­ve no ex­piry da­te - Miles advance of up to 50,000 award miles - Airport lounge access - High wa­i­ting li­st pri­o­r ity - Fir­st Cla­s s check-in - priority baggage handling - An additional bag depending on destinations and airline.

- 2 e- Upgrade Vouchers on achieving Senator status and for every Senator status renewal.

HON Cir­cle - sve po­god­no­sti sta­tu­sa Se­na­tor, najviša prednost na listi Ëekanja - pre­du­jam od 100.000 nagradnih mi­lja - Sta­tus Se­na­tor za su­pru­æni­ka ili par­tne­ra, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - 6 e-vouchera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade) prilikom postizanja statusa HON Circle te prilikom svake obnove statusa - dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji

HON Cir­cle - All exi­sting Se­na­tor pri­v i­le­ges, highest waiting list priority - 100,000 mi­les in advan­ce - Se­na­tor sta­tus for yo­ur spo­u­se or par ­tner depending on the airline

PRIKUPLJANJE MILJA NA LETOVIMA CROATIA AIRLINESA COLLECTING MILES ON CROATIA AIRLINES FLIGHTS

146 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

- Wa­i­ting li­st pri­o­r ity - Check-in at the Bu­si­ne­s s Cla­s s co­un­ter and increased free baggage allowance depending on destinations, airline.

- 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers when becoming an HON Circle Member and every time the status is extended - An additional bag depending on destinations and airline.

Tro­πi­te mi­lje Pri­kup­lje­ne na­gradne milje za­mje­nju­je­te za mnoge na­gra­de: nagradne zrakoplovne kar­te, pre­mje­πtaj u vi­πi ra­zred pu­to­va­nja (up­gra­de), ra­zli­Ëite nagrade ko­ji­ma se mo­æe­te ko­ri­stiti pri pu­to­va­nju (Miles & More hotelski partneri, Miles & More rent-a-car partneri), kupnju te u Lufthansa WorldShopu.

Spend mi­les You can ex­chan­ge col­lec­ted award mi­les for awar­ds pre­pa­red for you: flight awards, upgrades, various travel awards (Miles & More hotel partners, Miles & More car rental partners), shopping and lifestyle awards, and Lufthansa WorldShop.

Za­t ra­æi­te svo­ju Di­ners Club Cro­a­t ia Air­li­nes kre­dit­nu kar­t i­cu! n 5 ku­na = 1 nagradna mi­lja − za sva­kih 5 ku­na po­tro­πe­nih pre­ko ove kar­ti­ce, bi­lje­æi vam se 1 na­ grad­na mi­lja. n Pri­kup­ljaj­te na­grad­ne mi­lje svuda − jed­no­stav­ no pla­Êaj­te svo­jom Di­ners Club kar­ti­com na bi­lo ko­jemu od 12,000.000 DC pro­daj­nih mje­sta u zem­lji i ino­zem­s­tvu. n 2 kar­ti­ce − 1 ra­Ëun Mi­les & More − ko­ri­stite li se isto­dob­no pri­vat­nom i po­slov­nom kar­ti­com Di­ners Clu­ba i Cro­a­tia Air­li­ne­sa, pri­kup­lje­ne na­grad­ne mi­lje zbra­ja­ju se na va­πemu ra­Ëu­nu Mi­les & Mo­re.

Ap­ply for yo­ur Di­ners Club Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes cre­dit card! n 5 HRK = 1 award mi­le − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you col­lect 1 mi­le

Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu!

Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu.

Potroπnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paketu 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.

Zatražite svoju Croatia Airlines American Express karticu! n 4 kn = 1 nagradna milja − za svake 4 kune potrošene preko ove kartice bilježi se 1 nagradna milja 2000 milja dobrodošlice na Miles & More računu za nove korisnike, 1000 milja dobrodošlice za dodatnog člana

n

n Col­lect award mi­les ever­y whe­re − sim­ply pay with yo­ur Di­ners Club Card in any of 12 mil­li­on DC of­fi­ces in Cro­a­tia or abro­ad

2 cre­dit car­ds − 1 Mi­les & Mo­re mem­ber­ship ac­co­unt − use yo­ur pri­va­te and bu­si­ne­ss card to col­lect award mi­les on the sa­me mem­ber­ship ac­co­unt. n

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card!

Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express card! n 4 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 4 HRK spend via this card, you collect 1 mile 2000 welcome miles on Miles & More account for new basic and 1000 welcome miles for new additional card users

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Putno osiguranje

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Travel insurance

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Milje ne zastarijevaju

n

Miles do not expire

Dvostruke nagradne milje − za plaćanje u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travela

Earn double award miles − using the card to pay at Croaita Airlines and PBZ Card Travel

Za­t ra­æi­te svo­ju Cro­a­t ia Air­li­nes American Express kre­dit­nu kar­t i­cu! n 6 ku­na = 1 nagradna mi­lja − za sva­kih 6 ku­na po­tro­ πe­nih pre­ko Pre­mi­um kar­ti­ce bi­lje­æi se 1 na­grad­na mi­lja, od­no­sno za sva­kih 7 ku­na po­tro­πe­nih pre­ko Stan­dard kar ­ti­ce

Ap­ply for yo­ur Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes American Express cre­dit card! n 6 HRK = 1 award mi­le − for every 6 HRK spent via Pre­ mi­um card, you col­lect 1 award mi­le, and for every 7 HRK spent via Stan­dard card you col­lect 1 mi­le.

2000 mi­lja do­bro­do­πli­ce − za no­ve osnov­ne Pre­mi­ um ko­ri­sni­ke i 1000 mi­lja do­bro­do­πli­ce za no­ve do­dat­ne Pre­mi­um ko­ri­sni­ke

n 2.000 wel­co­me mi­les − for new ba­sic Pre­mi­um card users and 1.000 wel­co­me mi­les for new ad­di­ti­o­nal Premi­ um card users.

1000 mi­lja do­bro­do­πli­ce za no­ve osnov­ne Stan­dard ko­ri­sni­ke i 500 mi­lja do­bro­do­πli­ce za no­ve do­dat­ne Stan­dard ko­ri­sni­ke

n 1.000 wel­co­me mi­les − for new ba­sic Stan­dard card users and 500 wel­co­me mi­les for new ad­di­ti­o­nal Stan­ dard card users.

Dvo­s­tru­ke na­grad­ne mi­lje − za po­tro­πnju u po­slov­ ni­ca­ma Cro­a­tia Air­li­ne­sa i PBZ Card Travel American Expressa

Earn do­u­ble award mi­les − using the card to pay for tra­vels at Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes sa­les of­fi­ces and PBZ Card Travel American Expressa.

Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com

Please find detailed info at: www.miles-and-more.com

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CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

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CROATIA AIRLINES NOVOSTI CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS RAST PUTNIČKOG PROMETA Rast putničkog prometa zabilježen je u razdoblju od siječnja do svibnja 2018., u kojemu je ukupno prevezeno više od 719.200 putnika, što je 6 posto više u odnosu na isto razdoblje lani. U navedenom je razdoblju zabilježen i porast prosječne popunjenosti putničke kabine za 2,6 postotna boda.

I prvo tromjesečje 2018. godine obilježio je rast ukupno prevezenih putnika za 8 posto u odnosu na isto razdoblje 2017. godine, pri čemu je broj naših putnika u domaćem redovitom prometu porastao za 12 posto, a u međunarodnom redovitom prometu za 6 posto u odnosu na isto razdoblje 2017. godine. Zabilježena je i rekordna popunjenost putničke kabine (PLF), odnosno povećanje od 6 postotnih bodova.

membership the entire aviation industry representing 50 airlines and 146 air traffic service providers, including airframe and engine manufacturers, airports, suppliers and service providers from all over Europe.

blju od lipnja do listopada. Ostvareni porast broja putnika u svibnju 2018. godine u odnosu na svibanj 2017. iznosio je 9 posto.

A RECORD-BREAKING MAY ŠIRENJE MREŽE LETOVA Almost 214,000 passengers flew aboard our aircraft in May this year, which is a recordbreaking number of passengers in May in the history of the company. It is for the first time since 1992 that over 200,000 passengers were recorded during the month of May, with which Croatia Airlines has already attained the level of passenger traffic which is usually recorded during the peak tourist season, i.e. in the period from June to October. The said passenger number in May 2018 increased by 9 percent compared to May 2017.

Ove godine počeli smo letjeti u dva nova odredišta: u Mostar tijekom cijele godine i u Dublin tijekom ljetne sezone. Prigodna svečanost kojom je obilježeno ovogodišnje širenje naše mreže odredišta održana je 3. svibnja uoči prvog leta Zagreb - Mostar u zagrebačkoj zračnoj luci, a nastavljena je nakon slijetanja u mostarskoj zračnoj luci.

FLIGHT NETWORK EXPANSION This year, Croatia Airlines started flying to two new destinations: to Mostar all year round, and to Dublin during the summer season. The ceremony marking this year’s expansion of our network of destinations was held on 3rd May preceding our first Zagreb−Mostar flight at the Zagreb Airport, and continuing after landing at the Mostar Airport.

NAŠ PREDSJEDNIK UPRAVE U UPRAVNOM TIJELU ERA-e

A GROWTH OF PASSENGER TRAFFIC

REKORDNI SVIBANJ U našim zrakoplovima u svibnju ove godine prevezeno je gotovo 214.000 putnika, što je rekordan broj putnika u svibnju u povijesti tvrtke. Istodobno, prvi put od 1992. godine zabilježeno je više od 200.000 putnika tijekom mjeseca svibnja, čime je Croatia Airlines već dostignuo razinu putničkog prometa koja se inače bilježi u jeku turističke sezone, odnosno u razdo-

148 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

Prigodna svečanost uoči prvog leta Zagreb−Mostar The ceremony preceding our first Zagreb−Mostar flight

OUR PRESIDENT & CEO ELECTED AS ERA’S BOARD MEMBER

The President & CEO of Croatia Airlines, Mr Jasmin Bajić, was elected in March to the Board of the European Regions Airline Association (ERA) for a three-year term.

ERA is a non-profit trade association founded in 1980 to represent the European aviation industry. ERA’s main objective is to improve the conditions of business operations of the European airline industry, covering through

N. Cesarec Salopek

A growth of passenger traffic was recorded in the January-May 2018 period. During the said period, more than 719,200 passengers were transported, which is a 6 percent increase compared to the same period of last year. In the same period, the average passenger load factor (PLF) also increased by 2.6 percentage points.

The first quarter of 2018 recorded a growth in the total number of passengers carried by 8 percent compared to the same period of 2017. The number of domestic flight passengers increased by 12 percent, and that of international flight passengers by 6 percent compared to the same period of 2017.

Also, the passenger load factor (PLF) has peaked, increasing by 6 percentage points.

Predsjednik Uprave Croatia Airlinesa Jasmin Bajić u ožujku je izabran u upravno tijelo Europske udruge regionalnih avioprijevoznika (ERA - European Regions Airline Association) na mandat od tri godine.

Međunarodna organizacija ERA neprofitna je udruga osnovana 1980. godine i zastupa europsku zrakoplovnu industriju.

Glavni je cilj ERA-e poboljšanje uvjeta poslovanja europskoga zračnog sektora, a svojim članstvom pokriva cjelokupnu avioindustriju sa 50 predstavnika zrakoplovnih kompanija i 146 pružatelja usluga u zračnome prometu, uključujući proizvođače zrakoplova i motora, zračne luke, pružatelje usluga i dobavljače iz cijele Europe.

Volim putovati! I love to travel!

Karte u jednom smjeru unutar Hrvatske već od 220 kn!

Poletite iz Zagreba u Split, Dubrovnik, Pulu ili Zadar, kao i obratno, po cijeni karte u jednom smjeru već od 220 kn.

One way tickets inside Croatia starting from 220 kn!

Fly one way between Zagreb and Split, Dubrovnik, Pula or Zadar, at the price starting from 220 kn.

072 500 505, +385 1 6676 555 croatiaairlines.com

Moja aviokompanija. My airline.

CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

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SPREMNI ZA LET? READY TO FLY?

8kg RUČNA PRTLJAGA

HAND BAGGAGE

Dopuštena ručna prtljaga za putnike ekonomskog razreda je 1 komad, a za putnike poslovnog razreda 2 komada (težine do 8 kg i zbroja dimenzija do 115 cm) Veće komade ručne prtljage spremite u pretince, a manje torbe označene privjeskom Prtljaga za avion stavite ispod sjedala ispred vas, osim u redovima kod izlaza za slučaj opasnosti.

Dodatno, svaki putnik može ponijeti u kabinu: - 1 komad osobne prtljage najveće dopuštene veličine 40x30x10 cm - putuje li s djetetom do 2 g. - 1 dječja kolica ili autosjedalicu ili nosiljku te hranu za bebe - bolesne i invalidne osobe mogu ponijeti ortopedska pomagala ili protetske naprave

The hand baggage allowance for economy class passengers is 1 piece and for business class passengers 2 pieces (weighing up to 8 kg, whose total sum of dimensions does not exceed 115 cm).

Your hand baggage must be stowed in overhead compartments. All smaller bags with a Carry-on Baggage tag must be placed under the seat in front of you, except in emergency exit rows.

Each passenger may additionally take into the passenger cabin the following: - 1 personal item whose maximum size does not exceed 40x30x10 cm (16x12x4 in); - each passenger travelling with a child under 2 years of age is also allowed to take aboard 1 infant's carrying basket or a fully collapsible stroller/pushchair or a car seat and baby food; - disabled passengers may also take 1 pair of crutches and/or braces or any other prosthetic device.

20 cm 100ml

30 cm

100ml

20 cm TEKUĆINE U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI U zrakoplov se smiju unositi: - tekućine kupljene u duty free prodavaonicama ili u zrakoplovu, pod uvjetom da su spremljene u prozirne plastične vrećice, zapečaćene prilikom kupnje (STEB) i ne smiju se otvarati do krajnjeg odredišta - tekućine pakirane u pojedinačnim pakiranjima do 100 ml ili 100 g u prozirnoj plastičnoj vrećici sa zatvaračem do 1 litre - tekućine koje se tijekom leta koriste u medicinske svrhe ili zbog posebnih prehrambenih potreba (dječja hrana).

Ostale tekućine mogu se prevoziti u predanoj prtljazi.

LIQUIDS IN YOUR HAND BAGGAGE

Carry-on baggage

10 cm

Please place this bag under the seat in front of you.

The following can be taken aboard our aircraft:

Not for exit rows.

40 cm

55 cm

20 cm

40 cm

150 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

- liquids purchased in airside duty free shops past the airport security check, provided they are stored in transparent plastic bags, sealed when purchased (STEB) and remain unopened until your final destination; - liquids packed in individual packaging up to 100 ml or 100 gr and stored in a transparent plastic bag with a zipper (up to maximally 1 litre); - liquids that are to be used during flights for medical purposes or for special nutritional needs (baby food).

Other liquids can be transported in your checked baggage.

Cruise

o ŽIVOTINJE U PUTNIČKOJ KABINI U kabini se istodobno mogu prevoziti samo dvije životinje - dva psa ili dvije mačke. Prijevoz psa i mačke na istome letu nije dozvoljen. Životinje mogu putovati isključivo u torbi za nošenje i prijevoz kućnih ljubimaca, a tijekom cijeloga leta moraju biti u torbi ispod prednjeg sjedala. Životinje koje se zbog veličine ne mogu prevoziti u putničkoj kabini prevoze se u prtljažniku zrakoplova. Putnik je dužan pribaviti potrebnu dokumentaciju. Prijevoz životinja treba unaprijed rezervirati i dodatno se plaća u poslovnicama.

ANIMALS IN THE PASSENGER CABIN On the same flight, only two animals can be transported at the same time either two dogs or two cats. The transportation of dogs and cats on the same flight is not permitted. A passenger can carry only one pet bag to be held under the seat in front of the passenger throughout the entire flight.

Animals that cannot be transported in the passenger cabin due to their size are transported in the aircraft hold if they meet certain conditions. Passengers are required to obtain all the necessary documentation. Animal transportation must be booked in advance at an additional charge to be paid in any branch office.

ELEKTRONIČKI UREĐAJI U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI Upotreba elektroničkih uređaja dopuštena je isključivo u zrakoplovnom radu, a teže i veće uređaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je upaljen znak obaveznoga vezanja.

Dopuštene elektroničke naprave: - mobilni / pametni telefoni - tablet računala - slušalice za suzbijanje buke - digitalni audio / MP3 uređaji - elektroničke igre - e-čitači - prijenosna / notebook računala - prijenosni DVD / CD uređaji - Bluetooth uređaji - kamere - medicinski uređaji - električni brijaći aparati Zabranjene elektroničke naprave: - elektronički uređaji za simuliranje pušenja - samobalansirajući uređaji koji sadrže litijeve baterije nisu dozvoljeni u ručnoj i predanoj prtljazi

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI

ELECTRONIC DEVICES IN YOUR HAND BAGGAGE

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The use of electronic devices is allowed only in airplane mode. Heavy and large devices must be stored away while the seat belt sign is on.

Electronic devices allowed aboard our aircraft: - mobile/smart telephones - tablet computers - noise-cancelling headphones - digital audio/MP3 players - electronic games - e-book readers - laptop/notebook computers - portable DVD/CD players - Bluetooth devices - cameras - medical devices - electric shavers Electronic devices not allowed aboard our aircraft: - electric smoking simulation devices - self-balancing devices that run on lithium batteries are not allowed in either your hand baggage or checked baggage

Zakonom je zabranjeno nošenje opasnoga materijala u ručnoj i predanoj prtljazi.

To su eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekućine i čvrste tvari, radioaktivni materijali, infektivne tvari i otrovi, oružje, stlačeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuća sredstva itd.

ITEMS NOT ALLOWED The carrying of hazardous items and materials in either your hand baggage or checked baggage is prohibited by law.

These are explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials, infectious substances and poisons, weapons, compressed gases, corrosive and oxidising agents, etc.

USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA Svi su obroci i pića u našim zrakoplovima besplatni, a usluga ovisi o razredu prijevoza, duljini leta i dobu dana. Nudimo vam mogućnost kupnje na letu u našem Sky shopu. Za posebne prigode postoji mogućnost kupnje torte i pjenušca koje poslužujemo na letu. Dopuštena je konzumacija samo onih alkoholnih pića koja su poslužena u zrakoplovu.

SERVICE DURING FLIGHTS All meals and drinks aboard our aircraft are free of charge, and the service offered depends on the travel class, the length of flight and the part of day of the flight.

During your flight, you can shop in our Sky Shop. For special occasions, a cake and sparkling wine can be purchased to be served during the flight. The consumption of only those alcoholic beverages that are served aboard our aircraft is allowed.

www.croatiaairlines.com CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018 _ 151

WE MONITOR YOUR FLIGHTS, TO HELP YOU MAKE THAT ALL IMPORTANT CONNECTION. Our Connection Service teams monitor thousands of flights to connect you seamlessly between our member airlines. Helping speed you and your baggage to your next flight in selected hubs should you need it.

Find out more at staralliance.com/connection-service

152 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu.

Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)

122,40 / 1318

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

2

4

6

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

174

144

76

Airbus 320-200

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Airbus 319-100

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Dash 8-Q400

Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje.

Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer.

Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

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154 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

•

TRONDHEIM

BERGEN

HELSINKI

Aberdeen

ST. PETERSBURG

STOCKHOLM

OSLO

TALLINN

STAVANGER

Edinburg Belfast DUBLIN

Manchester

VILNIUS GDANSK

BERLIN Kassel DUSSELDORF

Poznan

WARSAW

PRAGUE

Chisinau LYON

Turin

Porto

MILAN VENICE

OSIJEK

Genoa Bologna Nice

Madrid

RIJEKA

BELGRADE BUCHAREST

BRAČ BARCELONA

MOSTAR Sofia Prishtina Podgorica Bari Tirana

Palermo Catania

ISTANBUL

ATHENS

Beirut Damascus TEL AVIV Jerusalem Amman ■ linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines’ services

■ u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama

in cooperation with partner airline

Partneri / Partners:

Air France

Air India

Alitalia

Asiana

Austrian Airlines

Brussels Airlines

KLM

LOT Polish Airlines

Lufthansa

SAS

Singapore Airlines

Swiss International Air Lines

TAP Portugal

Turkish Airlines

United Airlines

TAPPORTUGAL

Air Canada

CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

_ 155

PAST SENSE FUTURE TENSE www.diners.hr Info telefon: 01 4929 555

ISNINE P U Z E B RINE I ČLANA 7.

DO 31.

Tu smo već 49 godina. I ostajemo tu. city in the making grad u nastajanju Dobro došli u D/ Club.

Ako vjerujete da šoping nije uvijek samo kupovanje stvari i da plaćanje ne mora biti samo trošenje, dobro došli u D Club. Zatražite karticu online i očekuje vas darovni bon od 100 kn. Na brojnim prodajnim mjestima plaćajte do čak 36 rata bez kamata i naknada.

Više informacija potražite na www.diners.hr

Candidate for European Capital of Culture

156 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

AIRPORTS

Volim Volim putovati! putovati!

S. Jungić

I love to travel!

Dolazni terminali / Arrival terminals ODREDIŠTE / DESTINATION

FlyEasy - putujte povoljnije bez Prikupljajte nagradne milje, predane prtljage! iskoristite besplatnu uslugu hrane Kupite kartu u FlyEasy tarifnom irazredu pića nakoji letuuključuje kao i pogodnost 1 komad web check-ina. ručne prtljage do 8 kg.

Earn miles, get free drinks and FlyEasy - travel light at more snacks on board and take affordable prices! advantage of web check-in Buy a FlyEasy ticket and fly at with no additional cost. one piece of cabin baggage max 8 kg.

072 500 505, +385 1 6676 555 072 500 505, +385 1 6676 555 croatiaairlines.hr croatiaairlines.com

Moja aviokompanija.

Moja aviokompanija.

ODREDIŠTE DESTINATION AMSTERDAM/(AMS) STOCKHOLM (ARN) AMSTERDAM (AMS) ATHENS (ATH) ATHENS (ATH) BARCELONA (BCN) BARCELONA (BCN) BELGRADE (BEG) BELGRADE (BEG) BRUSSELS (BRU) BRUSSELS (BRU) PARIS (CDG) PARIS (CDG) (CPH) COPENHAGEN COPENHAGEN (CPH) DUSSELDORF (DUS) DUSSELDORF ROME (FCO) (DUS) FRANKFURT ROME (FCO) (FRA) HELSINKI (HEL) FRANKFURT (FRA) SAINT PETERSBURG PETERSBURG (LED) SAINT (LED) LONDON GATWICK (LGW) LONDON GATWICK (LGW) LONDON HEATHROW (LHR) LONDON HEATHROW (LHR) LISBON (LIS) LISBON (LIS) LYON (LYS) LYON MILAN(LYS) (MXP) MILAN (MXP) MUNICH (MUC) MUNICH (MUC) NICE (NCE) OSLO(NCE) (OSL) NICE BUKUREŠT (OTP) PRAGUE (PRG) PRAGUE (PRG) PRISHTINA (PRN) PRISHTINA (PRN) SARAJEVO (SJJ) SARAJEVO (SJJ) SKOPJE (SKP) SKOPJE (SKP) TEL (TLV) TEL AVIV AVIV (TLV) BERLIN BERLIN (TXL) (TXL) VENICE (VCE) VENICE (VCE) VIENNA (VIE) VIENNA (VIE) ZURICH (ZRH) (ZRH) ZURICH

ZRAČNA LUKA / AIRPORT

ZRAČNA LUKA / AIRPORT Schiphol Amsterdam Airport StockholmAmsterdam Arlanda Airport Schiphol Airport Athens International Airport Athens International Airport Barcelona ElElPrat Airport Barcelona Prat Airport Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport Brussels Airport Zaventem Brussels Airport Zaventem Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport Paris CharlesAirport de Gaulle Airport Copenhagen Copenhagen Airport Düsseldorf Airport Düsseldorf Leonardo daAirport Vinci - Fiumicino Airport Frankfurt Airport Leonardo da Vinci - Fiumicino Airport Helsinki Airport Frankfurt Airport St Petersburg Airport St PetersburgPulkovo Pulkovo Airport Gatwick Airport Gatwick Airport Heathrow Airport Heathrow Airport Lisbon International Airport Lisbon International Airport Airport Lyon Saint-Exupery International Lyon Saint-Exupery International Airport Malpensa Airport Malpensa Airport Munich Airport Munich Nice CôteAirport d’Azur International Airport Oslo Airport Nice Côte d'Azur International Airport Bucharest HenriAirport Coanda International Airport Vaclav Havel Prague Vaclav Havel Airport Prague Pristina International Airport Pristina International Airport Sarajevo International Airport Sarajevo International Airport Skopje Alexander the Great Airport Skopje Alexander the Great Airport Ben GurionInternational International Airport Ben Gurion Airport Berlin TegelAirport Airport Berlin Tegel Venice MarcoPolo Polo Airport Venice Marco Airport Vienna Airport Vienna Airport Zurich Airport Zurich Airport

TERMINAL

TERMINAL terminal 3 terminal terminal 3 2 terminal mainmain terminal terminal terminal 1 1 terminal 2 terminal 2 terminal B terminal B terminal 2D terminal 2D 2 terminal terminal 2 A terminal terminal A 3 terminal terminal terminal 3 1 terminal terminal 1 2 terminal terminal 1 1 terminal S terminal S terminal 2 terminal 2 terminal 1 terminal 1 1 terminal terminal 1 1 terminal terminal 1 2 terminal terminal 2 2 terminal terminal terminal 2 F main1terminal terminal 1 mainterminal terminal main terminal terminal B terminal B mainmain terminal terminal terminal 3 3 terminal terminal A, CA, C terminal mainmain terminal terminal terminal terminal 3 3 terminal terminal 2 2

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information

plesoprijevoz@plesoprijevoz.hr

www.plesoprijevoz.hr

ZAGREB

Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor, Držićeva bb) prema Zračnoj luci Zagreb Departures daily from the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, Držićeva bb) to the Zagreb International Airport: 5.00 - 5.30 - 6.00 - 6.30 - 7.00 - 7.30 - 8.00 - 8.30 - 9.00 - 10.00 - 10.30 - 11.00 - 11.30 - 12.00 - 12.30 - 13.00 13.30- 14.00 - 14.30 - 15.00 - 15.30 - 16.00 - 16.30 - 17.00 - 17.30 - 18.00 - 18.30 - 19.00 - 19.30 - 20.00 Polasci svakog dana iz Zračne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor, Držićeva bb) Departures daily from the Zagreb International Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, Držićeva bb): 7.00 - 8.00 - 8.30 - 9.00 - 9.30 - 10.30 - 11.30 -12.00 - 12.30 - 13.00 - 13.30 - 14.00 - 14.30 - 15.00 - 15.30 16.00 - 16.30 - 17.00 - 17.30 - 18.00 - 18.30 - 19.00 - 19.30 - 20.00 Za više informacija, molimo nazovite / For more information, please call: ZAGREB (01) 6331-982, 6331-999 SPLIT (021) 203-508 DUBROVNIK (020) 773-377 ZADAR (020) 250-094

RIJEKA (051) 330-207, 336-757 CROATIA AIRLINESCROATIA 2/2018AIRLINES _ 157169

Maja Dvoraček

TRAVELLING?

Putovanja su neiscrpna doza inspiracije, adrenalina, promišljanja, upoznavanja ljudi, mirisa i okusa. Zbog toga volim putovati!

Travels are an inexhaustible source of inspiration, adrenaline, reflection, meeting people, smells and tastes. That’s why I love travelling!

Dragi putnici!

Hvala vam na trudu i fotografijama koje ste nam poslali radi sudjelovanja u ovome nagradnome natječaju. Pozivamo vas da nam i nadalje fotografijom dočarate najljepše trenutke sa svojih putovanja, a mi ćemo rado objavljivati vaše fotografije.

Fotografiju nam pošaljite uz jednu rečenicu u kojoj objašnjavate zašto volite putovati i sudjelujte u našemu nagradnom natječaju. Pobjednika ćemo nagraditi s dvije povratne aviokarte za odredište Croatia Airlinesa po izboru, a druga će dva dobitnika primiti poklon-pakete.

U ovome broju putnoga časopisa dvjema povratnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa za najbolju fotografiju nagrađujemo Ivu Znaor.

Promotivnim paketima nagradit ćemo Maju Rašić i Maju Dvoraček.

Posjetite našu web stranicu www.croatiaairlines.hr (Ponude/Nagradne igre i natječaji), pročitajte uvjete nagradnoga natječaja i sudjelujte.

Sretno!

Kada ti svijet okrene leđa − ti okreni objektiv prema svijetu.

When the world turns its back on you − you turn your camera lens to the world.

U potrazi za nekim dalekim kulturama i ljudima, pronašla sam samu sebe.

In search of distant cultures and people, I have found myself.

158 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

Visit our website at www.croatiaairlines.hr (Offers/Prize contest), check the terms and conditions of the competition and enter.

Good luck!

Iva Znaor

Maja Rašić

Dear passengers!

Thank you for your efforts to participate in our competition and the photos you have sent us. We invite you to continue taking photographs of the most memorable moments from your travels, and we’ll be happy to publish them.

Explain to us why you like travelling in a single sentence, send us a photograph and take part in our competition. The first prize winner is rewarded with two return flight tickets to one of Croatia Airlines’s destinations of her/his choice, and two consolation prize winners are each rewarded a gift package.

In this issue of our inflight magazine, we have rewarded Iva Znaor for best photograph with two Croatia Airlines return flight tickets.

Maja Rašić and Maja Dvoraček have each won a promotional gift package.

CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

_ 159

Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 6160 153 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/uprava@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 072-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske / only for calls from Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 15:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Odnosi s korisnicima / Customer Relations Dept.

Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 http://www.croatiaairlines.com/hr/Zahtjev http://www.croatiaairlines.com/Claim Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 072 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske / only for calls from Croatia Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573

Rim / Rome 00054 Fiumicino Aeroporto/Airport Leonardo da Vinci Torre Uffici 2, room 518 Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 romto@croatiaairlines.hr

Bruxelles 1930 Zaventem/Brussels Airport Box 31 Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr

71 000 Sarajevo ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr

Split

ZraËna luka/Airport Pula Valtursko polje 210, 52 100 Ližnjan Tel. (+385-52) 218-909, 218-943 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka 51 000 Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5 Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr

160 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 2/2018

INTERTRAVEL GSA Topličin Venac 19-21 Tel. +381 11 310 89 69 ou@intertravel.rs Španjolska / Spain Global Representacion Turistica / GRT Rambla de Catalunya, 61 5º 3ª, 08007 Barcelona Tel. +34 934 875 775 spain@croatiaairlines.hr

Zadar 23 000 Zadar ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr

Bliski istok / Middle East Izrael / Israel Biaf Aviation Services Ltd

Zagreb

1 Ben Yehuda Street, Migdalor blgd. 12th floor,

10 000 Zagreb Trg Nikole Š, Zrinskog 17 Tel. (+385-1) 481--96-33 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Meunarodna zraËna luka Zagreb/ Zagreb International Airport Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 62-65-930

Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. +972 3 516 7181, 516 7140 israel@croatiaairlines.hr Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205,

Zürich

Tel. +61 3 9699-9355

Letzigraben 154, 8047 Zürich Tel. (+41-44) 2610-840 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr

lidia@skyair.biz Novi Zeland / New Zealand

Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents

CTtravel Limited NZ PO Box 104-056, Lincoln North,

Europa / Europe

GrËka / Greece Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str., 105 57 Athens Tel. +30 210 32 17 679, 32 17 750 greece@croatiaairlines.hr

Pula

slovakia@croatiaairlines.hr Srbija / Serbia

21 000 Split ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr

Frankfurt

95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Roissypôle Le Dôme, Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-40-00 parto@croatiaairlines.hr

Tel. +421 2 5262 2375

11000 Beograd 1000 Skopje ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 3296-967, 3296-969 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr

»eπka / the Czech Republic CK Blue Sky Travel Opletalova 57, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. +420 222 222 235 czech@croatiaairlines.hr

Paris

Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava

Skopje

Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik ZraËna luka/Airport Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Airport Center 1 Gebäude 234, HBK 49 Hugo-Eckener-Ring 60549 Frankfurt Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 frato@croatiaairlines.hr

CK Blue Sky Travel

Sarajevo

Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 616 02 46 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012

SlovaËka / Slovakia

Portugal APG - Portugal Rua Tenente Espanca, nº3 − 3º A, 1050 - 220 Lisboa Tel. +351 219 100 054 portugal@croatiaairlines.hr info@apg-portugal.com Rumunjska/Romania Specialised Aviation Services srl.

17d Emil Garleanu Str, Voluntari, Ilfov County Tel. +40 21 599 0108 romania@croatiaairlines.hr Rusija/Russia GRM (Global Russia Marketing) Bolshaya Sadovaya street 10, office 20, 123001 Moscow, Russia Tel. +7 495 981 14 00 ou.mow@grm-russia.com

Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Rd. Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. +64 9 837 9897 croatiaairlines@cttravel.co.nz Japan Air System Inc. Shimbashi Frontier Building, 7F 3-4-5 Shimbashi Minato-ku Tokyo, 105-0004 Japan Tel. +81 3 3593 6740 asipaxtyo@airsystem.jp Koreja / Korea Bohram Air Services 7F, Donghwa Bldg, 58-7 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: +82 2 754 6336 croatiaairlines@bohramair.co.kr Tajvan, Kina, Hong Kong / Taiwan, China, Hong Kong Pacific Express Company Limited 8F, No 137, Nanking E. Road Sec. 2, Taipei, Taiwan, R.O.C. Tel: +886 2 2515 2371 sales-service@pacificexpress.com.tw

Photo: Davor Rostuhar

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