Inflight Magazine CROATIA Autumn 2014 by Croatia Airlines

JESEN

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AUTUMN 2014

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AUTUMN 2014

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Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Krešimir KuËko

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Rukovoditeljica marketinga/ Head of Marketing Zlata PrpiÊ

Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek

Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o.

Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert

SrdaËno vas pozdravljam u naπem zrakoplovu uza æelju da vam i ovaj let s nama protekne ugodno i opuπteno. Vjerujem da Êe ugoaj u putniËkoj kabini upotpuniti naπ putni Ëasopis, koji, kako su nam rekli mnogi od vas, rado Ëitate i nerijetko ga ponesete sa sobom. Raduje nas πto je tako… i to veÊ punih dvadeset godina… Naime, naπa Croatia ovim osamdesetim brojem obiljeæava vrijedni jubilej − 20 godina izlaæenja. Prvi broj kompanijskoga putnog Ëasopisa joπ je 1994. godine stavljen u pretince sjedala svih naπih zrakoplova. VeÊ tada bili smo svjesni da Ëasopis mnogim putnicima omoguÊuje prvi kontakt s naπom zemljom pa smo æeljeli predstaviti naπu baπtinu i prirodne ljepote, osobito onima koji prvi put dolaze u Hrvatsku, i ujedno trenutke leta uËinili πto zanimljivijima. Tako je i u ovom broju… Nedavno smo proslavili i 25 godina osnutka tvrtke (osnovana je 7. kolovoza 1989.), o Ëemu smo viπe pisali u ljetnom izdanju. Zahvaljujemo vam na Ëestitkama i na mnogim lijepim rijeËima koje ste nam poslali tom prigodom. U povodu tog dogaaja 7. kolovoza na letu OU 416 iz Zagreba u Frankfurt organizirali smo nagradnu igru i nagradili pet putnika s dvije karte za neko od naπih odrediπta po njihovu izboru. Takoer potkraj srpnja nagradili smo dvjema besplatnim kartama i naπu milijuntu putnicu u ovoj godini, zabiljeæenu na letu iz Pariza za Split. »estitamo svima i æelimo ugodan boravak u gradovima koje su odluËili posjetiti. A 25. roendan proslavljamo i izloæbom 25 godina dizajna i fotograﬁje u Croatia Airlinesu, postavljenom od 25. rujna do 5. listopada u zagrebaËkome Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt. Pozivamo vas da je posjetite, a meu izloæenim eksponatima, koji su obiljeæili povijest tvrtke, bit Êe i svi putni Ëasopisi poredani od prvoga do zadnjeg broja i moÊi Êete ih prelistati. Dragi putnici, joπ jedanput vam zahvaljujemo na dugogodiπnjoj vjernosti i povjerenju koje ste darovali naπoj tvrtki. Istinski se trudimo da vaπe povjerenje opravdamo, i u tome neÊemo posustati. Nadam se da Êemo joπ dugo dijeliti lijepe zajedniËke trenutke meu oblacima…

Dear passengers,

tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26

I would like to welcome you on board our aircraft and wish you a very comfortable and relaxing ﬂight. I believe that this is exactly how you feel as you are leaﬁng through our travel magazine. Many of you have told us that you like to read it and very often

D. FabijaniÊ

Poπtovani putnici!

take it with you as you leave the aircraft. We are glad that this has been the case... for all the twenty years so far… With this issue, the 80th to date, our Croatia marks a valuable jubilee − 20 years of publication. The first issue of our company’s inflight magazine was placed in seatback pockets in 1994. From the very first day, we were aware that for many of our passengers the magazine would be their first contact with our country, so we were eager to showcase our heritage and the beauties of nature, particularly for those who were arriving in Croatia for the first time, making their flight as interesting as possible at the same time. This is also true of this issue... Not long ago, our company celebrated its 25th anniversary (it was established on 7 August 1989). Our summer issue wrote more extensively on this. We would like to thank all the well-wishers who congratulated us on the occasion. To mark the event, on 7 August, we organised a prize draw for the passengers of OU 416 en route from Zagreb to Frankfurt, and rewarded five of them with two tickets to one of our destinations of their choice. Also, towards the end of July, our millionth passenger this year, flying from Paris to Split, was rewarded with two free tickets. We congratulate all of them and wish them a pleasant stay in the cities they have chosen to visit. Another event organised to mark our 25th anniversary is the 25 Years of Design and Photography at Croatia Airlines exhibition, from 25 September to 5 October at Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts and we invite you to visit. Amongst the exhibits, all marking the company’s history, all the issues of our inflight magazine will be arranged in order, and you will be able to leaf through them. Dear passengers, once again, I take this opportunity to thank you for the years of loyalty and trust you have placed in our company. We are working very hard to live up to your expectations and will continue to do so in the future. I am truly looking forward to sharing many pleasant moments amongst the clouds for many years to come.

Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec

Vaš, Yours faithfully,

Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

Krešimir KuËko Predsjednik Uprave President & CEO

■ SADRÆAJ 20

Razgovor: Iva ToliÊ

IVA TOLIΔ, HRVATSKA ZNANSTVENICA ME–U 40 NAJBOLJIH Mladu hrvatsku znanstvenicu ugledni znanstveni Ëasopis Cell uvrstio je u generaciju buduÊnosti, a tu vrijednu titulu dobila je na temelju uspjeha u otkrivanju sloæenih staniËnih procesa. 28 Muzeji

MODERNA GALERIJA, PROŠLOST I SADAŠNJOST Moderna galerija smjeπtena je u srediπtu Zagreba. S fundusom od 9800 umjetnina, najveÊa je zbirka hrvatske moderne likovne umjetnosti. 42 Otoci

CRES, OTOK ORLOVA GNIJEZDA U Cresu moæete promatrati spektakularan let bjeloglavog supa, tumarati netaknutom πumom Tramuntane i lebdjeti nad morem u gradiÊu Lubenice, smjeπtenome na visini vidikovca njujorπkog Empire State Buildinga. 78 Baština

LJETNIKOVAC BUNIΔ-KABOGA, BAŠTINA IZ RUKE BAŠTINIKA Zbog upornosti posljednjeg nasljednika dubrovaËke vlastelinske obitelji Caboga, ljetnikovac je potpuno obnovljen te u novom ruhu darovan zajednici. 88 Kontinentalna Hrvatska

DARUVAR, GRAD KOJI VOLI ÆIVOT VijeÊe Europe pokrenulo je 2010. godine inicijativu Udruæenje europskih termalnih gradova (EHTTA) radi oËuvanja, povezivanja i revalorizacije povijesnih europskih termalnih toplica. Hrvatsku u tom udruæenju predstavljaju Daruvarske toplice. 102 Meridijani

BALI JE BALI Bali je najvaænije indonezijsko turistiËko odrediπte, otkriveno joπ tridesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa. Koliko god vremena odluËili provesti na Baliju, bit Êe vam premalo. 120 Kultura življenja

KAKO ÆIVE HRVATSKI ARHITEKTI Zavirite s nama u πest genijalnih domova hrvatskih arhitekata. Spoznat Êete kako na izgled nespojivi materijali mogu izvrsno funkcionirati zajedno i joπ mnogo toga… 134 Dizajn

»UDESAN SVIJET LUTAKA, VILA I ŠUMSKIH BIΔA OD TEKSTILA Hrvatska dizajnerska scena u posljednjih se nekoliko godina razvila u lutkarskom smjeru − autori maπtovito ruËno izrauju mala neobiËna biÊa, spoj izmeu lutkica, Ëarobnjaka, vila i æivotinja… 156 Poznati u zrakoplovu

HAMBURŠKA KRALJICA AVANGARDE NA KRILIMA CROATIA AIRLINESA Razlog posjeta koloraturne sopranistice Frauke Aulbert Hrvatskoj bio je njezin nastup na novom festivalu za suvremenu glazbu i umjetnost Novalis music+art festivalu, koji se odræao na glavnome novaljskom trgu. 2

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Jesen/Autumn 2014

www.croatiaairlines.com

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■ CONTENTS 20

Interview: Iva ToliÊ

CROATIAN SCIENTIST IVA TOLIΔ AMONGST THE BEST 40 The young Croatian scientist was selected to enter the 40 under 40 list of best scientists by the renowned science magazine Cell. Her breakthrough ﬁndings of complex cellular processes earned her ranking in the generation of the future. 28 Museums

THE PAST AND THE PRESENT OF THE MODERN GALLERY The Modern Gallery is at the very heart of Zagreb. Boasting holdings of 9800 exhibits, it is the largest Croatian collection of modern paintings. 42 Islands

CRES, THE ISLAND OF THE EAGLE’S NEST Watch the spectacular ﬂight of the griffon vulture, roam the virgin Tramuntana forest or hover high above the sea in the townlet of Lubenice, located as high as the lookout point of New York’s Empire State Building. 78 Heritage

THE BUNIΔ-KABOGA SUMMER VILLA, HERITAGE FROM THE HANDS OF THE HEIR Owing to the perseverance of the last heir of Dubrovnik’s noble Kaboga family, their summer villa has been completely restored and donated to the community in its newly refurbished and now splendid attire. 88 Inland Croatia

DARUVAR, A TOWN THAT LOVES LIFE In 2010, the Council of Europe launched the European Historical Thermal Towns Association (E.H.T.T.A.) initiative aimed at preserving, connecting and revaluating historical thermal towns in Europe. The Croatian representative in the Association is Daruvarske Toplice. 102 Meridians

BALI IS BALI Bali has been the most popular tourist destination in Indonesia since the 1930s when it was ﬁrst discovered. However long you decide to stay in Bali will not be enough. 120 Lifestyle

HOW CROATIAN ARCHITECTS LIVE Join us in taking a sneak peek into the fabulous homes of six Croatian architects. You will come to realise that seemingly clashing materials can work really well together and much, much more... 134 Design

THE ENCHANTING WORLD OF TEXTILE DOLLS, FAIRIES AND FOREST SPIRITS Over the past several years, the Croatian design scene has moved in the direction of doll-making − their imaginative designers handcraft quirky little beings, blending dolls, wizards, fairies and animals... 156 Celebrites on board

HAMBURG’S QUEEN OF THE AVANTGARDE ON THE WINGS OF CROATIA AIRLINES The reason for the arrival of the coloratura soprano Frauke Aulbert in Croatia was her appearance at the Novalis Music+Art Festival, a new contemporary music and art festival taking place at Novalja’s main square. 4

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Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak

This is your personal copy

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VIZUALNO - 25 godina dizajna i fotograﬁje u Croatia Airlinesu VISUAL - 25 years of design and photography in Croatia Airlines 25.9 - 5.10.2014 MUO, Zagreb

Piπe/By Fea VukiÊ

Fenomen inflight magazina razvio se danas toliko da je veÊ moguÊe govoriti i o kompleksnoj tipologiji, o pojedinim vrstama unutar kategorije. Zatim, moguÊe je govoriti o posebnim æanrovskim i semantiËkim zakonitostima koje vladaju unutar samog medija. I, napokon, moguÊe je analizirati i pojedine primjere, πto u ovoj prigodi i Ëinimo u povodu dvadeset godina izlaæenja inflight magazina Croatia. The in-flight magazine phenomenon has developed to such an extent that its typology has become rather complex, so much so that one can easily embark on a discussion about different kinds within the category. Moreover, it is also possible to speak about particular semantic or genre rules within the medium itself. And finally, it is possible to analyze certain examples, which is exactly what we are doing to commemorate the twentieth anniversary of Croatia in-flight magazine.

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rema dostupnim podacima, danas u svijetu postoji oko stotinu i pedeset inflight magazina − tiskanih medija kojima zraËni prijevoznici komuniciraju s vlastitim putnicima i πirom publikom. Osobit je to medij − ima vrlo jasnu niπu ciljane publike, kanal distribucije gotovo je besplatan, a æivot magazina dulji je od uobiËajenih, koji se prodaju u kioscima ili pretplatom. A poËelo je Ëetrdesetih godina kada tadaπnji Pan American Airlines uvodi magazin New Horizons kao pogodnost za putnike na njihovim redovitim linijama. Tako je poËela joπ cjelovito nenapisana povijest magazina koji æive u zraku, za trajanja leta, ali imaju i naknadni æivot, nerijetko joπ dugo u domovima putnika koji su doputovali na odrediπe, pa ih Ëuvaju kao dobar sadræaj ili neku vrstu uspomene. No, najprije zavirimo malo u proπlost. Najstariji inflight magazini doista su slijedili sadræajni smisao i vizualni izgled kakav je Ëetrdesetih i pedesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa dominirao u svijetu tiskanih medija. Sadræaj je posve slijedio odrednice veÊ utemeljenog æanra lifestyle magazina, a grafiËki izgled bio je posve na tragu estetiËkih i tehniËkih moguÊnosti onoga doba. VeÊ je tad fotografija, najprije crnobijela a zatim i u boji, postala jedan od najvaænijih alata komunikacije s publikom. »esto se inflight magazini dotiËu i aktualnih politiËkih, kulturnih i znanstvenih tema, ali njihov je glavni smisao promidžba putovanja, dinamiËnog æivotnog stila i multikulturnih vrijednosti koje su nuæno vezane uz fenomen dostupnih kontinentalnih i interkontinentalnih putovanja. Potkraj πezdesetih i u poËetku sedamdesetih godina inflight magazini poËinju u sadræaju stavljati veliki naglasak na verbalne i vizualne opise odrediπta, odnosno kulturno-povijesnih i prirodnih vrijednosti pojedinih gradova i regija. Takva je orijentacija stavljena u neπto jednostavniji grafiËki okvir i raspored informacija po stranicama, pri Ëemu je tema u prvom planu, a grafiËki dizajn diskretan. S takvim naslijeem fenomen inflight magazina proæivljava svoj zenit osamdesetih i doËekuje devedesete, kad se, u zoru politiËkih promjena na jugoistoku Europe, 1989., svjetskom skupu zraËnih prijevoznika pridruæuje joπ jedan − Zagal, odnosno danaπnji Croatia Airlines, kompanija koja veÊ toËno dvadeset godina objavljuje svoj putni Ëasopis Croatia. Bilo je to, naime, posve drukËije vrijeme od ovoga danaπnjega, kad je Republika Hrvatska Ëlanica Europske unije. Tada je raspadom bivπe Jugoslavije prepoznata potreba za komuniciranjem imena novostvorene dræavne zajednice. Iz tog je konteksta i izveden temeljni sadræajni okvir magazina.

Gotovo da nema nekoga bitnijeg elementa kulturne povijesti ili aktualne kulture u Hrvatskoj a da nisu predstavljeni na stranicama ovog magazina. There is hardly any important element of Croatian history or culture which was not featured on the pages of the magazine. Kad su objavljeni prvi brojevi magazina Croatia, u Hrvatskoj joπ traje rat. Misija ovog inﬂight magazina tijekom prvih godina bila je jasno oznaËiti ime i sadræaj novostvorene dræavno-pravne cjeline, koja je dotad postojala samo kao konstitutivni dio πire zajednice juænoslavenskih naroda. Dakle, trebalo je posredovati taj novi entitet, i to predstavljanjem kulturnog identiteta i prirodnih karakteristika teritorija. Tako je planiran sadræaj prvih godina inﬂight magazina Croatia Airlinesa. Gotovo da nema nekoga bitnijeg elementa kulturne povijesti ili aktualne kulture u Hrvatskoj a da nisu predstavljeni na stranicama ovog magazina. S godinama, tematski se okvir πirio, dakako, kako su se geografski πirile i operacije kompanije. Tako su se na stranicama magazina predstavljali gradovi u koje su zrakoplovi letjeli, a s vremenom i oni drugi, do

kojih se lako moglo doÊi iz odredišta pokrivenih redom letenja u suradnji s partnerskim aviokompanjama. Croatia je tako, upravo na tragu najboljih usporednih primjera, postala medij komplementaran medijima promidžbe turizma i dinamiËnoga æivotnog stila. − Komunikacijska funkcionalnost inflight magazina Croatia Airlinesa odmah postaje jasna, Ëim se prelistaju stari brojevi. »asopis, koji izlazi od 1994. godine, nerijetko omoguÊuje prvi kontakt putnika s naπom zemljom, pruæajuÊi im prve informacije o Hrvatskoj. Misija naπeg inﬂight magazina tijekom prvih godina bila je prenijeti, i zrakoplovima, ime nove dræave preko njezinih granica radi promicanja hrvatske kulture, baπtine, prirodnih ljepota i razliËitih zanimljivosti iz zemlje te, uz promidæbu Hrvatske, takoer informirati putnike i πiru javnost o odabranim CROATIA AIRLINES

struËnim temama iz zrakoplovstva i æivota kompanije. To se nije promijenilo do danas − istiËe Ksenija Ælof, veÊ 20 godina zaposlena u Croatia Airlinesu, kao voditeljica odnosa s javnoπÊu i urednica Ëasopisa Croatia. Prije toga radila je kao novinarka, reporterka, urednica i glavna urednica. Doktorirala je informacijske znanosti, a u znanstvenoj grani odnosa s javnoπÊu, prva je doktorica znanosti u Hrvatskoj. Dobitnica je nagrade PRO.PR za doprinos struci te za povezivanje struke sa znanoπÊu. − Snaga autorskog koncepta medijskog formata ovog magazina upravo je u njegovoj funkcionalnosti. Sve je u sluæbi komunikacije − kaže Ksenija Ælof, koja sa svojim istim timom najbliæih suradnika veÊ 20 godina kreira putni Ëasopis Croatia. Promjene unesene u meuvremenu od poËetka do danas minimalne su, ali nisu ni potrebne. GrafiËki je okvir magazinu veÊ u prvom broju dao urednik fotografije Damir FabijaniÊ, s prepoznatljivo kvadratnim kadrovima fotografija, a poslije se pridruæili i kompanijska dizajnerica Ivana IvankoviÊ i vanjski suradnik Nenad VujoševiÊ. Taj au-

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torski tandem i danas daje peËat magazinu, iako su stranicama prodefi lirali gotovo svi istaknuti suvremeni hrvatski fotografi te vrsni autori tekstova. Ekipi se prije 15 godina pridruæila i Gabrijela Lochert, diplomirana ekonomistica, zaduæena za oglaπavanje. − Naπi oglaπivaËi godinama nas prepoznaju kao kvalitetan medij pa je to razlog πto uvijek vlada nesmanjeno zanimanje za predstavljanje razliËitih proizvoda i usluga te oglaπavanje u Ëasopisu Croatia − kaæe Gabrijela Lochert, specijalistica promocije, koja je u kompaniji veÊ gotovo 20 godina, a najprije je radila kao Ëlanica kabinskog osoblja. Damir FabijaniÊ nije samo urednik fotografije i glavni fotograf Croatia Airlinesova putnog Ëasopisa nego i autor fotografija u ostalim promidžbenim materijalima Croatia Airlinesa. Freelance fotograf veÊ je 27 godina. Autor je brojnih autorskih izloæbi πirom Europe i Juæne Amerike, najpoznatiji po svojoj izloæbi i knjizitrilogiji Dubrovnik…, autor i kreator-suradnik u mnogim monografijama i tiskovinama (Ëasopis ORIS), koautor hrvatskih paviljona na EXPO 2005 i 2008, glavni kreator svjetski

priznatoga eno-gastronomskog Ëasopisa IÊe&piÊe. − Igrom sluËaja, imao sam priliku (i Ëast) biti prvi kotaËiÊ kontinuiteta putnog Ëasopisa Croatia, jer u prvom sam broju pozvan da sudjelujem kao fotograf (i neformalni art-direktor) − kaæe Damir FabijaniÊ. VeÊ u sljedeÊem broju stigla je Ksenija Ælof (i dandanas) glavna urednica, a u treÊem Ivana IvankoviÊ, mlada dizajnerica, izravno s fakulteta, koja je profesionalno bitno unaprijedila misao vodilju postavljenu (uz ograniËenja) u prvom broju. Pravo je zadovoljstvo imati povjerenje u takve suradnike − istiËe Damir FabijaniÊ. To što postoji Ëasopis u kojem gotovo dva desetljeÊa kontinuirano djeluje isti tim, zasluæuje osobitu paænju, a izaziva i pitanje postoji li uopÊe joπ koji takav sluËaj. Formalni okvir i izraæajna sredstva magazina definirana su veÊ u poËetku. Naglasak na velikim reprodukcijama sustavno posloæenih fotografija, jednostavna tipografija, nekomplicirana koloristiËka shema. Ukratko, prijateljski za korisnika, a sve kako bi se iz broja u broj, kvartalno, razvijala priËa o Hrvatskoj, njezinim ljudima, prirodi i kulturi, ali i o gradovima,

ljudima i kulturama iz cijelog svijeta. Moglo bi se Ëak reÊi i ovo − putni Ëasopis Croatia dizajnom je sljednik izraæeno modernistiËke linije tradicije likovne umjetnosti dvadesetog stoljeÊa u Hrvatskoj. − U poËetku zadali smo si smjernice po naËelu manje je viπe. Postavili smo granice u vizualnom izraæavanju i tako si otvorili prostor za traæenje slobode u tim ograniËenjima, a da opet bude prisutna neka ideja i inovativnost − napominje dizajnerica Ivana, veÊ dvadesetu godinu zaduæena za dizajn ne samo Ëasopisa, nego i cijele kompanije. Magistrirala je na Studiju dizajna pri Arhitektonskom fakultetu SveuËiliπta u Zagrebu u prvoj generaciji tada novoosnovanoga interfakultetskog studija. Od 1995. voditeljica je odjela kompanijskog dizajna u Croatia Airlinesu, gdje je stekla iskustvo u svim fazama implementacije kompleksnoga korporativnoga vizualnog identiteta. Redizajnirala je zrakoplove Croatia Airlinesa 2004. godine, za πto je dobila meunarodnu nagradu ReBrand 100, a taj je redizajn proglaπen jednim od najboljih brendova za 2005. godinu. Radovi su joj redovito zastu-

pljeni u svim vaænim domaÊim izloæbama dizajna te uvrπteni u razliËite meunarodne strukovne publikacije (European Design Annual, Print, Icograda Gallery, KAK...). Dobitnica je viπe strukovnih priznanja i nagrada. Nenad VujoπeviÊ zaduæen je za prijelom Ëasopisa. − Imamo visoke kriterije pri odabiru materijala koji ilustriraju odreene teme, a kad napokon izaberemo, trudimo se da ih tretiramo tako da dou do izraæaja i da se istakne njihova umjetniËka vrijednost. Najteæe je pronaÊi sklad tako da Ëasopis u kontinuitetu bude zanimljiv, pronaÊi optimalnu mjeru za pojedinu temu i u sve to uklopiti mnogo oglaπivaËa, koji takoer trebaju biti zadovoljni smjeπtajem i tretiranjem njihova oglasnog prostora − kaže Nenad. Iako je neupitna vizualna dosljednost Ëasopisa od prvog broja do danas, ipak su u meuvremenu uvedene i neke promjene, πto je i razumljivo, jer promjene u vizualnom smislu doæivio je korporacijski identitet kompanije. Posljednji redizajn korporacijskog identiteta tvrtke, koji funkcionira i danas, unosi odreene semantiËke promjene u utvrenu

formalnu shemu. Te promjene uvode neπto kompleksniju ali joπ komunikacijski funkcionalnu vizualnu strukturu. Jedan takav element, razvijena struktura na vertikalnoj repnoj povrπini zrakoplova Croatia Airlinesa, danas je moæda i najprepoznatljiviji element korporacijskog identiteta, u vizualnoj guævi svake zraËne luke kamo ti zrakoplovi stiæu. Korporacijski vizualni identitet Moglo bi se reÊi da je vizualni identitet zrakoplovne tvrtke Croatia Airlines obiljeæio je gospodarsku sliku Hrvatske tijekom proteklih Ëetvrt stoljeÊa, a bitno je prisutan u njezinom ukupnom kulturnom identitetu. Prvi poslovni potezi, prvi oglasi i prvi zrakoplovi tvrtke bili su oznaËeni graﬁËkom shemom dva povezana kvadrata, formom koju je autor Boris LjubiËiÊ poslije razraivao u viπe inaËica u sklopu drugih autorskih projekata. Razvojem operacija kompanije spoznalo se da je potreban sustavni razvoj korporacijskog identiteta. Stoga je raspisan pozivni natjeËaj na kojem je prvoplasiran bio rad Vilima Vasate, tada profesora komunkacijskog dizajna u Essenu, inaËe dizajnera hrvatskog porijekla.

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Iz tog su natjeËaja proistekle komunikacijske konstante Croatia Airlinesa, koje su i danas u uporabi, znak i logotip te osnovna boja (kompanijske boje crvena, bijela, plava i siva; kompanijski font helvetica). Sredinom devedesetih na tadaπnjem interfakultetskom Studiju dizajna SveuËiliπta u Zagrebu diplomirala je prva generacija dizajnera u Hrvatskoj. Unutar te zajednice raspisan je natjeËaj za kreativnu osobu koja Êe razvijati Vasatin koncept i tada je odabrana dizajnerica Ivana IvankoviÊ, koja sa svojim suradnikom Nenadom VujoševiÊem do danas sustavno i dosljedno kreira korporacijski vizualni identitet, te uvodi Ëisti dizajn bez suviπnih detalja i ËistoÊu u vizualnom izraæavanju, posveÊujuÊi osobitu pažnju kompoziciji unutar formata. KljuËnu ulogu u komunikacijskom i medijskom formatiranju magazina imao je fotograf Damir FabijaniÊ, uvoenjem kvadratnog kadra kao osnovne prepoznatljive semantiËke konstante. Ta je ideja razraivana tijekom godina koje su slijedile, a kvadrat kao semantiËki okvir na naslovnici zadræan je i do danas, nerijetko i na dominantnim stranicama unutar magazina. Uz to, ranih devedesetih taj

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standard prezentacije uvodi se i na tiskane kalendare tvrtke, Ëime je upotpunjena opÊa slika korporacijskoga vizualnog identiteta. To je bila i danas jest posebnost Croatia Airlinesa, razraivana u kompanijskom odjelu za dizajn. U sklopu toga dugoroËnog projekta stvoreni su i razraeni svi elementi pojavnosti tvrtke: eksterijer i interijer zrakoplova, identitet inflight servisa, grafiËko oblikovanje tiskanih sredstava promidžbe i pojedinih edicija, oblikovanje intranetskih i internetskih stranica i elemenata za oglaπavanje u digitalnim suËeljima. Zatim su oblikovani elementi za fi lm i videoinfl ight entertainment, elementi za komunikaciju u digitalnome i mobilnom okruæju kao i sredstva za unapreenje prodaje te oblikovanje poslovnica. OpÊeniti je projekt razvoja korporacijskog identiteta tvrtke predstavljen na mnogim hrvatskim i meunarodnim izloæbama i manifestacijama dizajna, a predstavljan je i u meunarodnim publikacijama. U komuniciranju korporativnih vrijednosti, vizualnog identiteta tvrtke, ali i nacionalnog identiteta, Ëasopis Croatia svakako je

obavio svoju vrlo veliku funkciju dosljedno razjaπnjavajuÊi πto je, gdje i kakva je Hrvatska. Tu dosljednost nije izgubio ni danas, iako je proπao i neke manje vizualne i komunikacijske promjene. Jedna od najoËitijih jest drukËije tretiranje naslova i uvodne stranice Ëlanka. Naslov je sada vrsta tipografske slike koja metaforiËki evocira neku vrijednost teme. Uvodna stranica povezuje takav naslov i kljuËnu fotografi ju, pa je tako zanimanje ËitaËa pobueno veÊ i na razini uæivanja u vizualnom, joπ dok Ëitanje nije ni poËelo. No, u danaπnjem svijetu izazova za tiskane medije i sve veÊe dominacije on line sadræaja, Ëak i inflight magazini poËinju migrirati u digitalna okruæja. Danas, kad je Hrvatska veÊ poznat pojam, mnogo poznatiji u odnosu na vrijeme prije dvadeset godina, moæe se zakljuËiti da je svojim vjeËno minimalnim grafiËkim suËeljem i inflight magazin Croatia spreman i za novu eru. ■

ccording to available information, about 150 in-ﬂ ight magazines are currently published worldwide.

Airline companies use this type of media as a channel to communicate with their own passengers and the public at large. This is a special kind of magazine − its niche market is well known; its distribution channel is almost free of charge, and its lifespan is longer than the lifespan of any other publication sold at newsstands or by subscription. It all started in the 1940’s when the then Pan American Airlines launched its magazine New Horizons as a special gift for the passengers fl ying on their regular lines. That was the beginning of a yet untold story of magazines which live midair to be read during fl ights, and often continue to live for quite a while in the homes of the passengers who have reached their destinations and decided to hold on to them, either as a keepsake or because of their content. Let us start with fi rst things fi rst and take a peak into the past. The earliest in-fl ight magazines followed a certain logic regarding contents and visual imager y which dominated the world of printed media in the 40’s and 50’s of the last century. The contents they presented strictly followed the

already established lifestyle magazine rules while their graphic design was in line with the contemporary aesthetic and technical capabilities. Photos, fi rst black and white and then colour, became one of the most important tools of communication with the readers. Very often, in-flight magazines touched upon topical, political, cultural and scientific issues, but their main purpose was to promote travel, a dynamic lifestyle and multicultural values which were inevitably linked to the phenomenon of accessible continental and intercontinental travels. In the late 60’s and early 70’s, in-flight magazines started to place a lot more emphasis on the visual presentation of destinations, i.e. on depicting the cultural, historical and natural values of specific cities and regions. As a result of that orientation, their graphic framework and the apportionment of information became somewhat easier on the eye. Topics took centre stage, while graphic design was only discretely present. With this kind of legacy, the in-fl ight magazine phenomenon reached its pinnacle in the 80’s and welcomed the 90’s. In 1989, on

the eve of political changes in South-Eastern Europe, the family of global airline carriers was joined by yet another one − Zagal, today’s Croatia Airlines, a company which has been publishing its in-fl ight magazine, Croatia, for 20 years. The times were very different than today; the Republic of Croatia is now a member of the European Union. Back then, the former Yugoslavia had just broken up and disappeared from the map of the world. Consequently, a new state was created and the need arose to make its name known. That was the context that provided the framework for the contents of the new infl ight magazine. War was still pretty much going on in Croatia when the fi rst issues of Croatia magazine came off the printing press. During those first few years, the mission of the in-fl ight magazine was to put the name of the newly founded state on the map and present it to the world; it had only previously existed as a constituent part of a broader association of the South-Slav peoples. The magazine’s main purpose was to serve as a vehicle for the promotion

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of that new entity, by way of presenting its cultural identity and the beauty of its land. That was the brief that the Croatian Airlines in-ﬂ ight magazine followed during the ﬁ rst few years of its publication. There is hardly any important element of Croatian history or culture which was not featured on the pages of the magazine. As years went by, the range of topics expanded very much in line with the geographic expansion of the company’s operations. The magazine showcased cities where the company’s aircraft landed, and as time went by, many others which were easily accessible from Croatia Airlines’ destinations in cooperation with partner airlines. Thus, following the best industry practices, Croatia became a medium which complemented all other media aimed at promoting travel and a dynamic lifestyle.

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− The communication functionality of Croatia Airlines’ in-fl ight magazine becomes quite evident as soon as one begins leafing through the old issues. The magazine, which has been published since 1994, is very often the passengers’ first contact with Croatia. − During the fi rst years of its publication, the mission of our in-flight magazine was to communicate the name of the newly founded state and carry it across state borders. The main goal was to promote Croatian culture, heritage and natural wealth and present various things of interest to the traveller. Besides showcasing Croatia, the goal was also to provide passengers and the public at large with bits of information related to the air-travel industry and the company’s operations. This has never changed, says Ksenija Ælof, who has worked for Croatia Airlines for 20 years

as the head of the company’s Public Relations and the editor of the Croatia magazine. Before joining Croatia Airlines, she worked as a journalist, reporter, editor and editor-inchief. She earned her PhD in communication science, and was the first doctor of science in the newly established scientific branch in Croatia of public relations. She is a recipient of the PRO.PR award for her contribution to the profession and linking the profession with science. − The power of this magazine’s medium format concept lies precisely in its functionality. Everything is in the service of communication, says Ksenija Žlof who, supported by a team of her closest associates, has been the creative force behind the Croatia magazine for twenty years. The changes introduced in the meantime are minimal, and not really crucial. With the trademark square photo frames, photo editor, Damir FabijaniÊ, gave the magazine a recognizable graphic framework already in the fi rst issue. He was later joined by Ivana IvankoviÊ as the chief company designer and her close associate, designer Nenad

VujoševiÊ. They continued to provide the magazine with its identity to this very day, although nearly all prominent Croatian photographers and excellent authors have made their contributions. Gabrijela Lochert, who holds a degree in economics, joined the team 15 years ago and took charge of advertising. − For a number of years now, our advertisers have perceived us as a quality advertising channel. As a result, there has been an unrelenting interest in the presentation of various products and services and advertising in Croatia Magazine, says Gabrijela, a promotion specialist, who joined the company as a cabin crew member nearly 20 years ago. Damir FabijaniÊ is not only the editor of photography and the chief photographer of the Croatia Airlines inﬂ ight magazine, he is also the author of photographs in other Croatia Airlines promotional materials. He has been a freelance photographer for 27 years. Solo exhibitions of his work have been mounted all over Europe and South America and he is best known for his book trilogy Dubrovnik... He is also the author or

creator-collaborator in many monographs and publications (ORIS magazine), the coauthor of the Croatian pavilions at EXPO 2005 and 2008, and the architect of the internationally acclaimed enogastronomy magazine IÊe&piÊe. − By a lucky coincidence, I had the opportunity (and honour) to be the generator wheel for the current Croatia infl ight magazine. I was invited to participate in the shaping of the fi rst issue as a photographer (and the non-offi cial art director), Ksenija Ælof came on immediately after that and has been the magazine’s editor-in-chief since the second issue. Young designer, Ivana IvankoviÊ, joined us straight from school and participated in the creation of the third issue. A fantastic professional, she greatly improved the fundamental guiding principle which had been set out (with some limitations) for the first issue. It is a great pleasure to be able to place trust in such colleagues, says Damir FabijaniÊ. The fact that there is a magazine out there which has been running for 20 consecutive years by the same team commands

respect and also begs the question: is there a similar case. A formal framework and creative tools for the magazine were deﬁ ned from the very outset. The emphasis was placed on large photo reproductions which were systematically laid out, a simple typography, and a non-complicated colour scheme. In short, user friendly, all with a view to developing a story of Croatia, its people, nature and culture from one issue to the next, every four months, but also a story of the cities, peoples and cultures worldwide. One could easily say that in terms of its design, Croatia travel magazine is a successor of the very pronounced modernistic outlines of the traditional 20 th century art in Croatia. − From the very outset, our guiding principle was less is more. We set boundaries for visual expression and thus, created room to search for our own freedom of expression within those boundaries while at th e s a m e tim e d i s p l ay i n g c re ati ve ideas and innovativeness, says Ivana IvankoviÊ, who has been in charge of not only the design of the magazine but the

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entire company for the whole of 20 years. Ivana IvankoviÊ holds a master’s degree in design from the Faculty of Architecture of the University of Zagreb. She was amongst the ﬁrst generation of students to have graduated from a newly set up interfaculty study programme. Since 1995, she has been the head of the Department of Company Design at Croatia Airlines, where she has acquired experience in all the stages of implementation of complex corporate visual identity. In 2004, she redesigned Croatia Airlines’ aircraft and received the international ReBrand 100 award for her work, with her redesign having been proclaimed one of the best brands in 2005. Her work is staged at leading local design exhibitions and in various international trade publications (European Design Annual, Print, Icograda Gallery, KAK, etc.). She is the recipient of several professional recognitions and awards. Nenad VujoπeviÊ has been in charge of the magazine’s layout as the chief designer’s closest associate over a number of years. − Our selection criteria for illustrations are very high. Once we make our ﬁnal choice,

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we try to make the images really prominent and accentuate their artistic value. The hardest thing is to strike balance and make the magazine uniformly interesting from cover to cover, to find the optimum space for a topic and combine all that with the growing number of advertisers who need to be satisfied with the position and treatment of their promotional message, he says. Although the magazine’s visual consistency has been indisputable since day one, some changes have been made in the meantime, in line with changes in the corporate visual identity. The last redesign of Croatia Airlines’ corporate visual identity, which is still very much in place, introduced some semantic changes to the well defined formal scheme. Those changes implied a somewhat more complex, but still functional visual structure which communicates the message well. One such element, a redesigned structure on the vertical fin, located on the tail of a Croatia Airlines’ aircraft is possibly the most recognizable element of the corporate identity that stands out from the visual overload at every airport where the aircraft lands.

Corporate visual identity One may say that visual identity of Croatia Airlines has made its mark on the economic image of Croatia over the past quarter of a century, and features as a significant presence in its overall cultural identity. The fi rst business moves, the fi rst advertisements and the company’s fi rst aircraft were marked by a graphic scheme featuring two intertwined squares, a form subsequently developed by its author, Boris LjubiËiÊ, into numerous other variations as part of his other projects. As the company’s operations developed, the need arose for a more systematic elaboration of the corporate identity. The winner of a public competition, wherein designers were invited to submit their proposals for the company’s corporate identity, was a designer of Croatian origin, Vilim Vasata, a professor of communication design in Essen. The competition laid the foundations for the Croatia Airlines communication constants which are still in use: brand and logo and principal colours (the company’s signature colours are red, white, blue and grey; the

company’s font is Helvetica). In the mid90’s, the University of Zagreb saw the first generation of students graduate from the Interfaculty Study of Design. A competition was launched inviting them to develop creative ideas based on Vasata’s concept. The winner, designer Ivana IvankoviÊ, came on board and has systematically and consistently created the company’s corporate identity ever since. She opted for pure design, purity of visual expression, paying special attention to composition within a given format. Photographer Damir FabijaniÊ has played a key role in the communication and media formatting of the magazine. He introduced a square frame as the fundamental and recognizable semantic constant. This idea was elaborated on during the years that followed. The square on the cover page has been kept to this day as the semantic framework and often repeated on the magazine’s dominant inside pages. Besides, in the early 90’s, the same layout standard was introduced into the company’s calendars and thus, the overall image of the company’s

corporate identity was rounded off. The trademark feature of Croatia Airlines has been elaborated on within the company’s design department. All the elements of the company’s image have been created and elaborated on within the framework of this long-term project: the aircrafts’ interior and exterior, the identity of in-fl ight service, the graphic imagery of printed promotional tools and some editions, the design of the company’s intranet and internet pages, and advertising elements for digital interfaces. Elements for film and video in-flight entertainment, communication elements for digital and mobile environments, the design of sales promotional tools and offi ce design followed. The general project of development of the company’s corporate identity has been presented at many Croatian and international exhibitions and design fairs, as well as in international publications. By communicating the company’s corporate values, its visual identity as well as the national identity of the state, Croatia magazine has certainly played a huge role by consis-

tently explaining what Croatia is, where and what kind of country it is. It has remained constant to that mission to this very day, despite some minor visual and communication changes it has gone through. One of the most obvious ones is a different treatment of the titles and introductions to the articles. The titles are currently a sort of typographic image which works as a metaphor for one of the values of the topic. The introductory page connects the title with the relevant key photo, so as to arouse the reader’s interest by giving them visual pleasure even before they start reading the article. In the contemporar y world, where online contents have gone from strength to strength while printed media are riddled with more and more problems, even in-ﬂight magazines have started migrating into digital environments. Today, Croatia is a familiar notion, much better known now than it was twenty years ago. One would not be wrong in concluding that with the minimal graphic interface it has always fostered, its namesake, the Croatia inﬂight magazine, is also well prepared for a new era. ■

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rvi broj putnog Ëasopisa Croatia tiskan je u proljeÊe 1994., a sljedeÊi godinu dana poslije. Od poËetka smo teæili tome da postignemo redovitost izlaæenja te da svako godiπnje doba doËekamo s novim brojem putnog Ëasopisa. Od 1997. godine tako je i bilo. Naime, u prvoj godini izlaæenja tiskan je samo jedan broj Ëasopisa, sljedeÊe dva, a u 1996.g. izdana su tri broja Ëasopisa. Od prvoga do aktualnog broja suradnik je naπeg Ëasopisa urednik fotograﬁ je Damir FabijaniÊ, uvelike zasluæan i za izgled, besprijekorne fotograﬁ je te vizualni identitet Ëasopisa. U novinarskom smislu za prvi su 16

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broj, kao dio uredniπtva, zasluæni iskusni novinari Silvana Jakuπ i –uro TomljenoviÊ. Od drugog broja do danas na mjestu je glavne urednice Ëasopisa Ksenija Ælof, a u treÊem broju timu se pridruæila dizajnerica Ivana IvankoviÊ, sa svojim vanjskim suradnikom Nenadom VujoπeviÊem, te lektorica Mirjana Miholek. Taj tim do danas neprekidno radi na Ëasopisu, a u meuvremenu je i pojaËan Gabrijelom Lochert, iz marketinga Croatia Airlinesa, koja se brine za oglaπavanje. Dakako, nerijetko nam pomaæu i drugi kolege iz tvrtke, meu kojima vrijedi spomenuti Anu ΔulumoviÊ, Snježanu Hrs, Davora JanušiÊa... Sad smo veÊ kao neka vrsta obitelji, jer gotovo 20 godina zajedno radimo, dijelimo divne, ali katkad i izazovne trenutke. Ali, ono πto se svih tih godina nije nimalo promijenilo jest to da nikad nismo prestali u tome uæivati. ZajedniËka æelja da Ëasopis bude πto bolji s godinama ne jenjava, naprotiv, Ëak se i poveÊava i raste zajedno s naπim zajedniËkim iskustvom. Drago nam je stoga πto je ambicioznost tima i ljubav koju ulaæemo prepoznala i struka, tako da je Ëasopis bio uvrπten u mnoge

dræavne i meunarodne izloæbe i publikacije. A evo i nekih statistiËkih zanimljivosti: Kad bi se zbrojila naklada svih dosad tiskanih Ëasopisa, doπli bismo do broja od viπe nego milijun i pol otisnutih primjeraka, a kad bismo ih poredali jedan do drugoga, bila bi to duga cesta, gotovo kao od Zagreba do Münchena ili od Rijeke do BeËa, jer taj bi red bio dugaËak oko 500 kilometra. Da ih, pak, sloæimo u visinu, bio bi to stup koji bi dosezao do visine leta naπih zrakoplova, i viπe… Ako znamo da je prosjeËni tekst dugaËak otprilike Ëetiri kartice, a dosad je objavljeno oko 800 tekstova, znaËi da je ukupno napisano viπe od 3000 kartica teksta. A objavljeno je i viπe nego 16.000 fotograﬁja. Prvi broj naπega Ëasopisa imao je 13 oglasa, a aktualni ih ima πezdesetak. Prvi je imao 68 stranica, a posljednjih nekoliko godina Ëasopisi imaju oko 180 stranica. Svi dosad tiskani Ëasopisi zajedno imaju oko 192,000.000 stranica. Od prvoga do zadnjeg broja cilj tiskanja putnog Ëasopisa Croatia ostao je isti: promicati hrvatsku kulturu i baπtinu, ovjekovjeËiti prirodne ljepote naπe zemlje te nastojati privuÊi

putnike koji Êe letjeti zrakoplovima Croatia Airlinesa odabranim temama iz zrakoplovstva i æivota kompanije, a njihove trenutke provedene u naπem zrakoplovu za vrijeme leta uz naπ Ëasopis uËiniti zanimljivijima i opuπtenijima. Naπi zrakoplovi Ëesto su i prvi susret putnika s naπom zemljom. Svjesni smo toga i zato se veÊ 20 godina trudimo zadræati visoke kriterije koje smo si u poËetku zadali te osobito prikazati Hrvatsku kao atraktivno i zanimljivo odrediπte. Dosad smo izdali ukupno 80 brojeva naπe Croatije, u kojima je svoje radove objavilo ukupno 508 autora, od toga 287 autora tekstova i 221 autor fotograﬁja. Kako su nam svi vaæni, a nemoguÊe je sve spomenuti, ovom prigodom najsrdaËnije zahvaljujemo svima naπim suradnicima koji su nam u proteklih dvadeset godina pomogli u ostvarenju tog cilja. Æelja nam je bila da nakon 20 godina poslaæemo naslovnice jednu pokraj druge i da tvore niz od 20 metara, a da se naslovnica razlikuje samo u fotograﬁji. Tu ideju uspjeli smo realizirati, a kako to uæivo izgleda, pogle-

dajte na izloæbi u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt, Trg marπala Tita 10, Zagreb, od 25. rujna do 5. listopada. ■

he first issue of Croatia inflight magazine was printed in the spring of 1994. The next one followed a year later. From day one, our goal was to achieve regularity in publication and to welcome every new season with a new issue of our inflight magazine. This has been the case since 1997. In the first year of publication, only one issue of the magazine was printed; the next year there were two, and in 1996, three issues of the magazine were published. Since day one, Damir FabijaniÊ has been an important contributor and the Chief Photography Editor who takes most of the credit for the magazine’s design, distinctive photographs and visual identity. Experienced journalists, Silvana Jakuπ and –uro TomljenoviÊ, who were on the first issue’s editorial board, take credit for its journalistic content. Ksenija Ælof has been the magazine’s Editorin-Chief since the publication of the second issue. Ivana IvankoviÊ, a young designer, and

her free-lance colleague, Nenad VujoπeviÊ, joined the team for the publication of the third issue, together with language editor Mirjana Miholek. This team has been working at the magazine ever since. In the meantime, they have been reinforced with Gabrijela Lochert, who joined from the Croatia Airlines Marketing Department and who is in charge of advertising. Very often we rely on the help of other colleagues, including Ana ΔulumoviÊ, Snježana Hrs, Davor JanušiÊ... We are almost like a family now. We have been together for nearly 20 years, sharing many wonderful and sometimes challenging moments. However, the one thing that has not changed over all these years is that we have never stopped enjoying what we do. Our common wish to produce a high quality magazine has never waned. On the contrary, it has increased and keeps growing together with our joint experience. We are glad that the ambition of the team and the love we invest in our work has been recognized by the industry so that the magazine has been showcased at many national and international exhibitions and in publications.

Zajedno 20 godina/Together for 20 years Gabrijela Lochert (oglaπavanje/advertising), Nenad VujoševiÊ (prijelom/layout), Ksenija Žlof (glavna urednica/editor-in-chief), Damir FabijaniÊ (urednik fotograﬁje/photo editor), Ivana IvankoviÊ (dizajn/design)

Here is some statistical information: The combined number of copies of the issues printed so far amount to a staggering ﬁgure of over one and a half million copies. If we were to put all of them next to each other, they would make a road, 500 kilometres long, almost covering a span from Zagreb to Munich or from Rijeka to Vienna. If we

were to stack them one on top of the other, they would make a column reaching or even exceeding the ﬂight altitude of our aircraft. If an average text is about four pages long, and a total of 800 texts have been published so far, this means that over 3000 pages of text have been written to date, and over 16,000 photographs have been published.

Radovi nastali u odjelu dizajna Croatia Airlinesa bili su zastupljeni na mnogima domaÊim i inozemnim izložbama The works created in Croatia Airlines’ department of design have been presented at numerous local and foreign exhibitions Zgraf 96, Zgraf 97, 31. zagrebaËki salon, BIO Ljubljana’99, Zlatno zvono (1999., 2000., 2001., 2002., 2004.). Zgraf 99, ZagrebaËki salon 99, European design manual 2000, European design manual 2001., Dizajn godine 01., Golden Drum Portoroæ (2000., 2001., 2002.,

The fi rst issue of our magazine featured 13 advertisements. The current issue features 60. The fi rst issue had only about 68 pages while over the past few years, our magazines have had about 180 pages. All the issues of the magazine printed so far total 192,000,000 pages. Since the fi rst issue, the goal of Croatia infl ight magazine has remained the same: to promote Croatian culture and heritage, to document the natural beauties of our country, to arouse the interest of Croatia Airlines passengers with selected topics from the airline industry and the life of the company, and to make their flying time more interesting and relaxing. Our aircraft is often the passengers’ fi rst encounter with our country, which is why for the past 20 years, we have been trying to uphold the high criteria we set for ourselves from day one and showcase Croatia as an attractive and interesting destination. So far, we have published 80 issues of Croatia magazine with the help of 508 contributing authors, 287 writers and 221 photographers. Since each and every one of them is important to us, and since it is impossible to mention them all by name, we are taking this opportunity to thank all the contributors who have worked with us over the past 20 years and helped us achieve our goal. ■

2003., 2004.). Dizajn godine 02., Dizajn godine 03, ZagrebaËki salon 2003, Zgraf 9, Ikograda galerija, Izloæba dizajna Croatia Airlines − MUO, Izloæba dizajna Inﬂ ight Magazina Croatia Airlines - KloviÊevi dvori, Dizajn godine 0708, Hrvatska gospodarska komora 2008, Oblikovanje za dræavo-Design for the Country 2008 − Ljubljana, Kreativnost i inovativanost…

Pozivamo Vas da izloæbu pogledate u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt u Zagrebu od 25.9. do 5.10.2014 godine. Zahvaljujemo sponzorima i partnerima koji su nam pomogli u realizaciji izloæbe. We invite you to visit the Museum of Arts and Crafts in Zagreb from 25 September to 5 October 2014 and see the exhibition. We would like to thank the sponsors and partners who supported its organization. Epson, PBZ Card, Erste Card Club, Varteks, Fed, Zrinski d.d. 18

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We would like to say thank you for partnering us over several decades and look forward to working together in the future. Zahvaljujemo se na više od deset godine partnerstva L UDGXMHPR VH SORGQRM VXUDGQML X EXGXÉQRVWL

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More mobility for the world CROATIA AIRLINES

Damir FabijaniÊ

■ RAZGOVOR IVA TOLIΔ

CROATIA AIRLINES

Piπe/By Ljerka Bratonja MartinoviÊ

Nenad Reberšak

INTERVIEW IVA TOLIΔ ■

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Hrvatsku znanstvenicu Ivu ToliÊ ugledni znanstveni Ëasopis Cell svrstao je meu 40 najboljih mladih biologa svijeta, nazivajuÊi ih generacijom buduÊnosti. Mlada znanstvenica tu vrijednu titulu dobila je na temelju uspjeha u otkrivanju sloæenih staniËnih procesa.

The Croatian scientist Iva ToliÊ has been ranked among the 40 best young biologists in the world by the prestigious magazine Cell, which calls them the generation of the future. The young scientist owes this valuable title to her successes in detecting complex cellular processes. 22

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ajedno s kolegama na Institutu Maxa Plancka u Dresdenu mlada hrvatska znanstvenica Iva ToliÊ identiﬁcirala je prvi potencijalno besmrtni organizam, kvasac afriËkog piva, koji se pomlauje kod svake diobe stanica. To otkriÊe moglo bi postati temelj drukËijeg lijeËenja niza bolesti, od raka do Alzheimerove ili Parkinsonove bolesti. S Ivom ToliÊ razgovarali smo u vrijeme priprema za preseljenje u Zagreb, gdje Êe uskoro zasnovati obitelj i nastaviti znanstveni rad na Institutu Ruera BoπkoviÊa. ■ OsjeÊate li se kao jedna od najboljih mladih znanstvenica u svijetu? ©to za vas znaËi ta titula? − Bila sam iznenaena kad su mi to javili iz Cella. Volim svoj posao i mnogo mi je vaæniji sam znanstveni rad na putu do nekog vaænog otkriÊa nego titule i nagrade, ali, dakako, lijepo je dobiti priznanje za rad. Na toj sam listi u uglednom druπtvu kolega iz cijeloga svijeta, a tu je joπ jedan Hrvat, Mario HaliÊ, koji radi na sveuËiliπtu u Münchenu. Zanimljivo je da su se meu 40 mladih znanstvenika biologa iz cijeloga svijeta naπla dva Hrvata. ■ ©to je zasluæno za uspjeh koji ste postigli - dobre ideje, kvalitetni suradnici ili neπto treÊe? − Ideje su kljuËne, a i intelektualno okruæje u kojem radite. Imala sam sreÊu πto sam radila i radim s vrhunskim kolegama i suradnicima, htjela bih istaknuti profesora Nenada Pavina s Prirodoslovno-matematiËkog fakulteta u Zagrebu, s kojim suraujem veÊ osam godina na projektima iz biofizike stanice. Vaæno je i raditi s motiviranim doktorskim studentima i postdoktorandima koji su ambiciozni, fokusirani i æele sudjelovati u zahtjevnim projektima. Naπi uspjesi ne bi bili moguÊi bez interdisciplinarne suradnje, u kojoj smo kombinirali znanja iz molekularne i staniËne biologije, genetike, raËunarstva i teorijske fizike, te suvremenu mikroskopiju koja je bazirana na eksperimentalnoj fizici. I, naravno, vaæno je da uæivate u tome πto radite jer onda sve ide lakπe i uspjeπnije. ■ Biste li danas bili meu 40 najznanstvenika da ste kojim sluËajem nakon studija ostali u Hrvatskoj? − To je sada teπko znati. Svakako, mislim da je za mlade znanstvenike veoma vaæno otiÊi u inozemstvo na doktorat ili poslijedoktorsko usavrπavanje. Za mene je to bilo neprocjenjivo iskustvo, æivjeti u nekoliko razliËitih dræava i gradova, raditi na viπe istraæivaËkih instituta gdje sam mnogo nauËila, stekla nove kolege, vidjela da se moæe raditi na drukËiji naËin. Drago mi je πto sam otiπla van jer uspjela sam se profesionalno ostvariti. Ali zagrebaËki naËin æivota uvelike mi je nedostajao i zato

sam se vratila, te sada ovdje namjeravam primijeniti sve πto sam nauËila i nastaviti svoja istraæivanja. ■ HoÊe li znanost pronaÊi lijek za starenje? − Proces starenja kompleksan je i ima mnogo uzroka. »ak i na razini stanice brojni mehanizmi utjeËu na starenje stanica. U ljudskim se stanicama pri svakoj staniËnoj diobi skraÊuju krajevi kromosoma, takozvane telomere. Osim toga, stare stanice nakupljaju πtetne tvari, kao πto su slobodni radikali, koje uniπtavaju proteine i DNK. Da bi se starenje zaustavilo, treba, meu ostalim, zaπtititi kromosome, te poboljπati razgradnju πtetnih tvari i onemoguÊiti njihovo nakupljanje. Na razini organizma, teorija genetski programiranog starenja govori da se ekspresija gena programirano mijenja sa staroπÊu organizma. I hormonska se slika mijenja s godinama, πto utjeËe na starenje. StohastiËka pak teorija starenja govori da se pod utjecajem okoliπa πtetne tvari nakupljaju u organizmu i osteÊuju ga iznutra, a oπteÊenja, koja se gomilaju s vremenom, uzrokuju starenje. To znaËi da brzina starenja ovisi o stilu æivota. Obje su teorije toËne, ali nije poznato koja od njih u veÊoj mjeri objaπnjava proces starenja. Ne oËekujem da Êe biti moguÊe potpuno zaustaviti starenje, ali vjerujem da Êe ga biti moguÊe usporiti. NaËini za usporavanje starosti ili, jednostavno, ublaæavanje simptoma starosti obuhvaÊat Êe i dalje zdravu prehranu, izbjegavanje stresa, tjelesnu aktivnost, uz moguÊi dodatak hormonskih terapija, lijekova za ËiπÊenje πtetnih tvari i popravak mutacija, a moæda i direktnih genetskih manipulacija. ■ ©to je Vas privuklo upravo istraæivanjima funkcioniranja stanice? Kako ste se dosjetili afriËkoga pivskog kvasca? − Jedno je od najfascinantnijih znanstvenih pitanja ©to je æivot i kako funkcionira. BuduÊi da su stanice atomi æivota, odluËila sam se baviti funkcioniranjem tih miniæivota od kojih se sastoje svi organizmi. Na kvascu afriËkog piva radim od 2001. godine, a njega sam izabrala kao modelnu stanicu, meu ostalim, zbog njegova naËina diobe. Pri diobi veÊine drugih kvasaca, stanica majka stvara mladu stanicu kÊer, a sama nastavlja æivjeti i dijeliti se. Nasuprot tomu, kod naπega se kvasca stanica majka dijeli u dvije jednake stanice kÊeri. To znaËi da nakon diobe stara stanica majka prestaje postojati, a ostaju samo stanice kÊeri, za koje smo pretpostavili da su mlade. Ta se pretpostavka o oËuvanju mladosti kroz diobe pokazala toËnom. Tako smo identificirali kvasac afriËkog piva kao prvi jednostaniËni organizam koji ne stari, dok god æivi pod povoljnim uvjetima. Kad se pak stanice toga

kvasca podvrgnu negativnim utjecajima poput πtetnih kemikalija ili visoke temperature, naπ kvasac poËinje starjeti. U takvim se stresnim uvjetima kvasac poËne dijeliti na mlae i starije stanice kÊeri baπ kao i ostale vrste stanica. Dok starije stanice sve viπe stare i na kraju umru, mlae se reproduciraju bez problema, Ëak i u teπkim stresnim uvjetima. To otkriÊe izazvalo je pozornost medija diljem svijeta. Zvali su nas iz Bilda i Zeita, te s niza njemaËkih portala. Za naπ su se rad zainteresirali i britanski, francuski, brazilski, kineski i ameriËki mediji, a Ëak je NASA-in Ëasopis za astrobiologiju objavio Ëlanak o naπem otkriÊu. Bila je to lanËana reakcija, svi su novinari æeljeli znati πto smo otkrili o starenju, jer to je vruÊa tema koja zanima cijeli svijet. ■ VraÊate se u Zagreb, svoj rodni grad, nakon πto ste proputovali priliËno svijeta. Kakvi su Vaπi dojmovi iz zemalja u kojima ste æivjeli? − Æivjela sam i radila, osim u Hrvatskoj, u Ëetiri zemlje: SAD-u, Danskoj, Italiji i NjemaËkoj. Na poslu mi je najbolje bilo u NjemaËkoj, SADu i Danskoj, a privatno u Hrvatskoj i Italiji. NjemaËka i SAD imaju vrhunske znanstvene rezultate jer su svjesne kako je znanost bitna za napredak druπtva i zato intenzivno ulaæu u znanstvena istraæivanja. Ali, privatni je æivot, po mome miπljenju, kvalitetniji u Hrvatskoj i Italiji jer tu su meuljudski odnosi topliji, prijateljske i rodbinske veze ËvrπÊe i ljudi viπe znaju uæivati u svakodnevnom æivotu. Tu je viπe smijeha, opuπtenosti, a i kaos koji je u odreenoj dozi potreban za kreativnost. ■ Pretpostavljam da kao dinamiËna mlada znanstvenica volite putovati. Kakvo mjesto putovanja imaju u Vaπem æivotu? − Mnogo putujem i uæivam u tome. PoËela sam intenzivno putovati za vrijeme studija, kada sam autostopirala po cijeloj Europi. Bila sam u gotovo svim zemljama Europe, u SAD-u, Indiji, Japanu, Singapuru, Australiji, Argentini, Brazilu, Maroku, Izraelu. Od europskih zemalja najviπe mi se sviaju Italija i ©panjolska, a od dalekih uvelike me se dojmila Indija. ■ Razlog povratka u Hrvatsku, kako ste veÊ otkrili, privatne je prirode. OËekujete li da Êete uspjeπno spojiti majËinstvo i obitelj sa znanstvenim angaæmanom? Vjerojatno Êete uzeti koju godinu predaha. − Nije mi sada lako zamisliti koliko Êe mi dijete promijeniti æivot... Ali, volim raditi, pa Êu se vjerojatno za pola godine vratiti na posao. To je posao koji me intelektualno stimulira, u kojemu osobito volim znanstvenu znatiæelju, igru i izazove, i spremnost na mentalne skokove da bi se rijeπio odreeni problem i otkrilo neπto potpuno novo i dosad nepoznato. Vjerujem da se znanost i obitelj mogu dobro spojiti, a pri

tome je vaæno da æena ne mora sve u obitelji raditi sama. Imam divnog zaruËnika s kojim zajedno obavljam sve kuÊanske i obiteljske obveze, roditelji su nam blizu, a organizirat Êemo i dodatnu pomoÊ u kuÊi. Iva ToliÊ zavrπila je zagrebaËki MIOC i diplomirala molekularnu biologiju na PMF-u u Zagrebu. Dio doktorskog rada o staniËnoj mehanici napravila je na SveuËiliπtu Harvard u Bostonu, a doktorat obranila u Zagrebu 2002. godine. Od 2005. godine radi kao voditeljica istraæivaËke grupe na Max Planck Institutu u Dresdenu. Odræala je viπe od 80 pozivnih predavanja na meunarodnim konferencijama i istraæivaËkim institutima, objavila viπe od 50 znanstvenih radova u Ëasopisima s meunarodnom recenzijom, a sudjeluje u nastavi na doktorskom studiju u Dresdenu i Splitu, te na nekoliko magistarskih studija u NjemaËkoj. U posljednjih πest godina dobila je πest projekata od njemaËke Zaklade za znanost, te projekte meunarodne suradnje od zaklade Human Frontier Science Program i Unity Through Knowledge Fund. Ove se godine zaposlila kao znanstvena savjetnica na Institutu Ruera BoπkoviÊa, gdje osniva svoju grupu i nastavlja istraæivanja staniËne diobe i starenja. ■

ogether with her colleagues at the Max Planck Institute of Dresden, the young Croatian scientist Iva ToliÊ has identified the first potentially immortal organism, the African brewer’s yeast, which rejuvenates with each cell division. This discovery could become the basis for differently treating a number of diseases, from cancer to Alzheimer’s or Parkinson’s disease. We talked with Iva ToliÊ during her preparations for moving to Zagreb, where she will soon start a family and continue her scientific work at the Ruer BoπkoviÊ Institute. ■ Do you feel like one of best young scientist in the world? What does this title mean to you? − I was totally surprised when I heard that from Cell. I love my job and the scientific work leading to an important discovery means much more to me than titles and awards, but, of course, it is nice to get recognition for your work. I am on this list in the distinguished company of colleagues from all over the world and along with another Croatian national, Mario HaliÊ, who works at the University of Munich. It is interesting that among 40 young scientists, biologists from around the world, there are two Croatian nationals. ■ What lies behind the success that you have achieved − good ideas, quality associates, or something else?

− Ideas are the key, but also the intellectual environment in which you work. I am lucky that I have always worked with top-notch colleagues and associates. I would like to especially mention Professor Nenad Pavina from the Faculty of Science (PMF) in Zagreb, with whom I have been cooperating for as many as eight years on projects in cell biophysics. It is also important to work with highly motivated PhD students and postdoctoral students who are ambitious, focused and willing to participate in challenging projects. Our successes would not be possible without interdisciplinary collaboration, in which we combine knowledge of molecular and cell biology, genetics, computer science and theoretical physics, and modern microscopy, which is based on experimental physics. And, of course, it is important to enjoy what you are doing because it makes everything easier and you are more successful. ■ Would you be among the 40 top scientists today if you had stayed in Croatia after your university studies? − It is difficult to know that. In any case, I think that for young scientists it is really important to go abroad for doctorate or post-doctorate training. For me it was a precious experience, living in several different states and cities, working at several research institutes where I learned a lot, meeting new colleagues, seeing that things can be done in a different way. I am glad I went abroad because I was able to accomplish things professionally. But I very much missed the Zagreb way of life and that is the reason why I returned. I now intend to apply everything I have learned and continue my research here. ■ Will science find a cure for aging? − The aging process is complex and has many causes. Even at the level of cells, there are numerous mechanisms which affect the aging of cells. In human cells, at each cell division the ends of chromosomes, known as telomeres, are shortened. In addition to this, old cells accumulate harmful substances, such as free radicals, which destroy proteins and DNA. In order to stop aging, it is necessary, among other things, to protect chromosomes, enhance the degradation of harmful substances and prevent their accumulation. At the level of the organism, the genetically programmed aging theory tells us that gene expression is subject to programmed change which happens along with the ageing of the organism. Also, the hormonal picture changes over time, which affects aging. On the other hand, the stochastic theory of aging says that under the influence of the environment, the contaminants accumulate in the body and damage it from the inside, and the damages, which accumulate CROATIA AIRLINES

Domagoj OpaËak, Ured Predsjednika RH/ The Ofﬁce of the President of the Republic of Croatia

Dodjela ordena Red Danice Hrvatske/ Bestowing of the Order of Danica Hrvatska

over time, lead to aging. This means that the pace of aging depends on your lifestyle. Both theories are correct, but it is not clear which of them better explains the aging process. I do not expect that it will be possible to completely stop aging, but I believe it will be possible to slow it down. The ways to slow down aging or simply relieve the symptoms of old age will continue to be a healthy diet, avoiding stress, physical activity, perhaps with the addition of hormone therapy, medications to cleanse the organism from harmful substances and repair mutations, and possibly direct genetic manipulations. ■ What attracted you to researching the functioning of cells? What has led you to explore the African brewer’s yeast? − One of the most fascinating scientific questions is What is life and how does it work? Since the cells are the atoms of life, I decided to explore the functioning of these mini live organisms which are present in all organisms. I have been working on the African brewer’s yeast since 2001, and I have chosen it as a model, among other things, due to its way of division. In the division of most other yeasts the mother cell produces a young daughter cell and continues to live and divide. Unlike that, in the African brewer’s yeast the mother cell is divided into two identical daughter cells. This means that after the division the old mother cell ceases to exist and only the daughter cells, which are assumed to be young, remain. This assumption about the preservation of youth through division proved to be true. Thus, we identified the African brewer’s yeast as the first single-cell organism which does not grow old, for as long as it lives under favourable conditions. On the other hand, if the yeast cells are subjected to 24

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negative influences, such as harmful chemicals or high temperatures, they begin to age. Under such stressful conditions the yeast begins dividing into younger and older daughter cells just like other types of cells. While older cells get increasingly old and eventually die, the younger ones reproduce without problems, even in severe stress conditions. This discovery has caused a lot of media attention around the world. We were contacted by Bild and Zeit, and a number of German portals. The British, French, Brazilian, Chinese and American media showed interest in our work, and even the NASA astrobiology magazine published an article about our discovery. It was a chain reaction; all the reporters wanted to know what we found out about aging because it is a hot topic of interest to the whole world. ■ You are returning to Zagreb, your hometown, after having seen a lot of the world. What are your impressions of the countries in which you have lived? − In addition to Croatia, I have lived and worked in four countries: USA, Denmark, Italy and Germany. Work-wise, it was best living in Germany, the USA and Denmark, but privately, in Croatia and Italy. Germany and the United States have superior scientific results because they are aware of the fact that science is essential for the progress of society and therefore they intensively invest in scientific research. On the other hand, my private life, in my opinion, was better in Croatia and Italy because in these countries relationships between people are warm, friends’ and family ties are stronger and people know how to enjoy life better. In these countries people are more easy-going, there is more laughter, but there is also chaos, a pinch of which is needed for one’s creativity.

■ I assume that as a dynamic young researcher you like travelling. What place does travelling have in your life? − I travel a lot and I enjoy it. I began travelling extensively during university when I hitchhiked across Europe. I have been to almost all the countries of Europe, the USA, India, Japan, Singapore, Australia, Argentina, Brazil, Morocco and Israel. Out of the European countries, I like Italy and Spain most of all, and out of the far away ones, I was very much impressed with India. ■ As you have already revealed, your reason for returning to Croatia is of a private nature. Do you expect to successfully combine motherhood and your family engagement with science? You’ll probably take a few years of leave. − I cannot even imagine how my baby will change my life... On the other hand, I like working, so I will probably go back to work in six months. My work stimulates me intellectually. I particularly like the scientific curiosity, games and challenges, and readiness to make mental jumps in order to resolve a specific problem and discover something completely new and previously unknown. I believe that science and family can go well hand in hand, but it is important that a woman does not have to do all the family work by herself. I have a wonderful fiancé, with whom I share all the house and family-related chores; our parents live close to us and we will organize additional help at home. Iva ToliÊ attended high school in Zagreb (MIOC) and graduated from the Department for Molecular Biology at the Faculty of Science in Zagreb. She completed part of her dissertation on the topic of cell mechanics at Harvard University in Boston, and received her PhD diploma in Zagreb in 2002. Since 2005 she has worked as head of the research group at the Max Planck Institute in Dresden. She has delivered more than 80 invited lectures at international conferences and research institutes, published more than 50 scientific papers in international peer-review journals, participated in teaching at the doctoral studies in Dresden and Split, as well as several master’s studies in Germany. In the past six years she has received six projects from the German Foundation for Science, as well as international cooperation projects from the Foundation Human Frontier Science Program and Unity Through Knowledge Fund. This year she was employed as a scientific advisor at the Ruer BoπkoviÊ Institute, where she founded her research group and continued researching cell division and aging. ■

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most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.

To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËnu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2011. godine, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima. Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica − kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. prosinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine. Hrvatska je od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica Europske unije. This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. By the 2011 census, Croatia’s population is 4,284,889. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The ofﬁcial language is Croatian, and the ofﬁcial script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova. National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice 26

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Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima iz svih ra zdoblja, zbog burnih povijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja ra zliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karak teriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog ra zdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakralna baπtina te niz oËuvanih karak teristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je sred njoe uropsko ga kultur nog kruga i isti Ëe se mnogim prapovijesnim nala zima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitek turom iz ra zdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine. A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of influences of different cultures. Its coast is characterized by the influences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monuments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental complexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik. The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − najveÊe turistiËko iznenaenje te hit-odrediπte na Sredozemlju. Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, priobalje te kontinentalni dio zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u 2013. godini u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima zabilježili su oko 12,442.000 turista, od kojih je stranih oko 10,955.000. Turisti su ostvarili u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima oko 64,828.000 noÊenja. Hoteli, turistiËka naselja i apartmani, hosteli, kampovi, sobe i apartmani u kuÊanstvima te ostale vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim standardima. Bogata je kulturna ponuda, kongresna i wellnes ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, charter ponuda (iznajmljivanje plovila za razonodu i sport), kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih i biciklistiËkih staza, vinske ceste, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti… Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja, nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluau toce sta Hrvatska je bliæa ne go ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mno gih hrvatskih oto ka, pri jevoz trajek tom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od svakodnevice miljama i miljama daleko... Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has be en a hit de stination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international exper ts in tourism. According to data from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, the Croatian tourist destinations located on the islands, along the coast and in the continental part of the country, including the capital city of Zagreb, recorded roughly 12.4 million tourists in commercial accommodation facilities in 2013, of whom around 10.9 foreign tourists. Tourists realized about 64,828,000 overnight stays. Hotels, tourist villages and apartments, hostels, camps, rooms and apartments in private homes and other forms of accommodation, such as modern nautical centres, are equipped in line with international standards. There is a rich cultural offer, together with the congress and wellness offer, sport-recreation and entertainment contents, the charter offer (renting sailing vessels for leisure and sport), many kilometres of well-groomed walking and cycling paths, wine roads, sightseeing

excursions that include natural and cultural treasures... Novac i naËin plaÊanja Ku na je na ziv novËa ne je di ni ce Re pu bli ke Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp). NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima − 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac − 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima.

Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Ku na (kn). In cir cu la ti on are ban knotes in Ku na and co ins in Ku na and Li pa (lp) ∑ one hun dredth of a Ku na. The ban knotes are issu ed in the fol lowing de no mi na ti ons: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Ku na, whi le the de no mi na ti on struc tu re of the co ins is 1, 2 and 5 Ku na and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Li pa (100 Li pa = 1 Ku na). Pay men ts can be made by cre dit card (Di ners, Vi sa, Ame ri can Ex pre ss, Eu ro card and Ma stercard), as well as eu ro-chec ks. Ca sh can be wit hdrawn from AT Ms.

Kartografski laboratorij Križovan

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Izravne domaÊe linije Direct domestic routes Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalne / regular sezonske ljetne / seasonal in summer

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■ MUZEJI MUSEUMS

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Vlaho Bukovac, MLADA PATRICIJKA/ YOUNG PATRICIAN WOMAN, 1890.

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Pripremila/Prepared by Lana Šetka Fotograﬁje/Photos Goran VraniÊ

U srediπtu Zagreba, u prekrasnoj historicistiËkoj Vranyczanyjevoj palaËi na Zrinjevcu, sagraenoj 80-ih godina 19. stoljeÊa prema projektu slavnog austrijskog arhitekta Otte Hofera, smjeπtena je Moderna galerija. S fundusom od 9800 umjetnina najveÊa je zbirka hrvatske moderne likovne umjetnosti. The Modern Gallery is situated in the very centre of Zagreb, in the beautiful historicist Vranyczany Palace at Zrinjevac. It was built in the 80s of the 19th century according to the design of the famous Austrian architect Otto Hofer. With a collection comprising 9800 works, it is the largest art collection of Croatian modern ﬁne art.

deju o osnutku Galerije modernih hrvatskih slikara Druπtvu umjetnosti predloæio je 1899. Izidor Krπnjavi, slikar i prvi profesor povijesti umjetnosti na zagrebaËkom sveuËiliπtu, koji je u to vrijeme obnaπao duænost predstojnika vladina Odjela za bogoπtovlje i nastavu. »lanstvo je Krπnjavijev prijedlog prihvatilo aklamacijom i ubrzo poËelo s ustrojem njezina djelovanja. Zbirka koja se od 1905. postupno popunjavala, za javnost je bila otvorena 1914. izloæbom darovanih, kao i u meuvremenu otkupljenih umjetnina Ëlanova Druπtva umjetnosti. Bila su to umjetniËka ostvarenja najistaknutijih autora, koja se i danas ubrajaju meu likovne budnice hrvatske slikarske i kiparske moderne. Djela slikara Nikole MaπiÊa, Celestina MedoviÊa, Vlahe Bukovca te kipara Ivana RendiÊa i Ivana MeπtroviÊa, uz djela drugih umjetnika koji su studirali na tada prestiænim umjetniËkim akademijama u Veneciji, BeËu, Rimu, Pragu i Münchenu, bila su prve laste danas golemog jata galerijskih umjetnina. Galerija je zatim za svoj fundus otkupila djela velikog portretista Vlahe Bukovca, predvodnika pariπke orijentacije u hrvatskom slikarstvu, ali i djela dvojice mlaih slikara, Josipa RaËiÊa i Miroslava KraljeviÊa, koji su se nakon minhenske Akademije − na kojoj su uËili uz poznatog profesora Habermanna − veÊ kao zrele slikarske osobnosti zaputili u Pariz, gdje su izmeu 1908. i 1912. stvorili djela koja su pokrenula razvoj i bujanje modernizma u hrvatskom slikarstvu prve polovine 20. stoljeÊa.

Josip RaËiÊ, PONT DES ARTS, 1908.

Ljubo BabiÊ, prvi profesionalni kustos Moderne galerije, 1920. u stalni je postav uvrstio otkupljena pariπka remek-djela dvojice spomenutih slikara, kojima je prerana smrt naprasno zakljuËila opuse. Sliku Pont des Arts RaËiÊ je naslikao 1908., samo nekoliko mjeseci prije smrti, a KraljeviÊ je Parc du Luxembourg, Veliki akt, Bonvivant, Golgotu i Autoportrete naslikao 1912. u vrijeme fulminantne pariπke godine, samo godinu dana prije smrti. Pet godina mlai BabiÊ, koji je i sam bio predstavnik minhenske Akademije i slijedbenik pariπke orijentacije, na taj je naËin naglasio da se s RaËiÊevom, te poglavito KraljeviÊevom pariπkom dionicom opusa zatvara beËko i minhensko poglavlje, a otvara novo u hrvatskoj likovnoj moderni. Moderna galerija s vremenom je postala nezaobilazno mjesto zagrebaËke i hrvatske memorije, a svakako i jedno od najvaænijih Ëimbenika u formiranju nacionalnoga likovnoga i kulturnog proﬁla modernog vremena, kao i promicatelj stvaralaπtva hrvatskih autora na internacionalnom planu. Izloæba Miroslava KraljeviÊa, koja je u proljeÊe 2014. odræana u Ca’ Pesaro, nije prva izloæba Moderne galerije predstavljena Veneciji. Naime, od 1926. do 2009. s pridruæenim povjerenicima Moderna je galerija na venecijanskoj Mostri realizirala osam izloæbi. A od osamostaljenja Republike Hrvatske joπ je intenzivnije prisutna na meunarodnoj likovnoj sceni uz niz tematskih izloæbi iz hrvatske likovne kulturne baπtine i suvremene produkcije. Il Paesagio nella CROATIA AIRLINES

Mato Celestin MedoviĂ&#x160;, VRIJES/HEATHER, 1911.

Ivan RendiÊ, HERCEGOVKA/ WOMAN FROM HERZEGOVINA, 1901.

Vizure stalne izloæbe Moderne galerije Hrvatska likovna umjetnost od 19. do 21. stoljeÊa The Modern Gallery’s permanent exhibition Croatian ﬁne Art from 19 th to 21st century

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Postav retrospektive Miroslava KraljeviÊa/ Miroslav KraljeviÊ’s retrospective

Vizure stalne izloæbe Moderne galerije Hrvatska likovna umjetnost od 19. do 21. stoljeÊa The Modern Gallery’s permanent exhibition Croatian ﬁne Art from 19 th to 21st century

Miroslav KraljeviÊ, OLIMPIJA/ OLIMPYA 1912.

pittura Moderna Croata izloæba je koja je 1991. odræana u Milanu, a Nuevo Arte de Croacia tijekom 1997. i 1998. bila je predstavljena u najznaËajnijim muzejima Juæne Amerike. Europi je otkrila hrvatsku umjetnost 2000. retrospektivom Vlahe Bukovca u Nacionalnoj galeriji u Pragu, a devet godina poslije i u Gemeentemuseumu u Den Haagu. A 2011. u Donauschwäbisches Zentralmuseumu u Ulmu, na izloæbi Kroatische moderne Kunst im europäischen Kontext an der Wende vom 19. zum 20. Jahrhundert predstavila je osamdesetak najznaËajnijih djela hrvatskih umjetnika na prijelazima posljednja dva stoljeÊa. Od pedesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa Moderna galerija, uza stalni postav, prireuje i retrospektivne i monografske izloæbe kljuËnih protagonista novije i suvremene nacionalne likovne umjetnosti, te tematske izloæbe u vezi s hrvatskom modernom baπtinom. Izloæbena aktivnost joπ je intenzivnija nakon πto je u obnovi palaËe 2005. mostom uspostavljen kruæni tok izmeu 30 izloæbenih dvorana rasporeenih na dva kata, a umjetnine su izloæene prema najviπim muzeoloπkim standardima. Recentni stalni postav galerije tvori 780 reprezentativnih izloæaka nastalih izmeu 1835. i 2010. godine, koji biljeæe zbivanja na hrvatskoj umjetniËkoj sceni od pojave modernoga graanstva do suvremene produkcije. Vaæan je dio stalnog postava i Taktilna galerija MG, prva multisenzorna galerija u ovom dijelu Europe, namijenjena slijepim i slabovidnim osobama kojima je uz audiovodiËe, taktilne dijagrame i legende na Brailleovu pismu omoguÊeno razgledavanje kapitalnih djela hrvatskog slikarstva i kiparstva od 19. stoljeÊa do danas, pa mogu u sadræajnom i oblikovnom smislu vidjeti sliku i prepoznati skulpturu. Tako je Moderna galerija hrvatsku likovnu umjetnost novijeg doba uËinila dostupnu svima. RespektirajuÊi mnogostruke interese suvremene publike i promjene u percepciji baπtinjenoga likovnog stvaralaπtva, Galerija prireuje povremene izloæbe unutar samog postava kako bi s motriπta suvremenih spoznaja povijesno-umjetniËke struke revalorizirala likovne opuse koji su zakljuËeni i aﬁrmirala recentno stvaralaπtvo umjetnika koji su u zenitu kreativnih postignuÊa. U tom kontekstu u prosincu proπle godine, u povodu stote obljetnice smrti Miroslava KraljeviÊa, jednoga od najznaËajnijih hrvatskih modernista, u Modernoj je galeriji inaugurirana prva cjelovita izloæba slikarova stvaralaπtva na kojoj je bilo predstavljeno stotinu i devedeset KraljeviÊevih djela: ulja, akvarela, kolaæa, gvaπeva, crteæa, graﬁka i skulptura. Ako ove jeseni ili zime

doete u Osijek i Dubrovnik, retrospektivnu izloæbu prvaka hrvatske slikarske moderne moæete razgledati tijekom listopada i studenoga u OsjeËkoj galeriji likovnih umjetnosti, a tijekom prosinca i u dubrovaËkoj UmjetniËkoj galeriji. A u svom domu, u palaËi Vranyczany u Zagrebu, Moderna galerija ovu jesen posjetiteljima je, uz novi stalni postav, pripremila i sjajnu retrospektivu slikarstva Zlatka Boureka, te izloæbu kiparice Milene Lah, a uoËi boæiÊnih i novogodiπnjih blagdana i izloæbu novih galerijskih akvizicija, meu kojima su i mnoga vrijedna djela veÊ spominjanih likovnih umjetnika. Q

S postava izloæbe Ikonograﬁja grada u hrvatskom slikarstvu prve polovice 20. stoljeÊa, odræane u Modernoj galeriji tijekom 2010. godine/ From the Iconography of the City in Croatian Painting of the First Half of the 20th Century exhibition, held at the Modern Gallery during 2010

he idea of founding the Modern Gallery of Croatian Painters was proposed to the Art Society in 1899 by Isidor Krπnjavi, a painter and the first professor of art history at the University of Zagreb, who at the time served as head of the government’s Department for Education and Religion. The members accepted Krπnjavi’s proposal by acclamation and soon started with the organization of its operation. The collection, which has been gradually expanded since 1905, was open to the public in 1914 with an exhibition of donated, as well as in the meantime purchased, artworks of the members of the Art Society. Those were the artistic achievements of the most prominent authors who are today considered the ‘art reveille’ of Croatian modern painting and sculpture arts. The works of painters Nikola MaπiÊ, Celestin MedoviÊ, Vlaho Bukovac and sculptors Ivan RendiÊ and Ivan MeπtroviÊ, along with the works of other artists who studied at the then prestigious art academies in Venice, Vienna, Rome, Prague and Munich, were the first examples of today’s gallery of fine arts. Following this, works were purchased for the gallery’s collection which were done by the great portraitist Vlaho Bukovac, the leader of the Parisian orientation in Croatian painting, as well as the works of two younger artists, Josip RaËiÊ and Miroslav KraljeviÊ, who after completing the Munich Academy - where they were taught by the famous professor Habermann - as mature artistic personalities headed for Paris, where between 1908 and 1912 they created works which initiated the development and proliferation of modernism in Croatian painting in the first half of the 20th century. In 1920, Ljubo BabiÊ, the first professional curator of the Modern Gallery, included in the permanent collection the masterpieces created in Paris by the two aforementioned artists, whose untimely deaths suddenly concluded their opuses. RaËiÊ painted the picture Bridge

Ivan MeštroviÊ, Djevojka s lutnjom/ Girl with a lute, 1918.

S otvorenja izloæbe Hrvatska umjetnost u europskom kontekstu na prijelomu 19. i 20. stoljeÊa u Donauschwäbisches Zentralmuseumu u Ulmu, 2011./ Opening of the 19th and 20th Century Croatian Art in the European Context exhibition in Donauschwäbisches Zentralmuseumu in Ulm, 2011

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Prezentacija slika Ljube BabiÊa, Ede MurtiÊa i Miroslava KraljeviÊa u Taktilnoj galeriji MG/ Presentation of Ljubo BabiÊ, Edo MurtiÊ and Miroslav KraljeviÊ’s paintings in the Modern Gallery’s Tactile Gallery

S postava retrospektive Josipa Pina Trostmanna, odræane u Modernoj galeriji tijekom proljeÊa 2014. godine./ Josip Pino Trostmann’s retrospective held at the Modern Gallery during spring 2014

Instalacija Vlaste Delimar iz 1991. godine u stalnom postavu MG/ Vlasta Delimar’s installation from 1991 − an exhibit in the Modern Gallery’s permanent collection

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of the Arts in 1908, just a few months before his death, and KraljeviÊ created Park Luxembourg, Large Nude, Bonvivant, Golgotha and Self-Portrait in 1912, during the years of instability in Paris, only one year before his death. BabiÊ, who was five years younger and also a representative of the Munich Academy and a follower of the Parisian orientation, thereby emphasised that with RaËiÊ’s, and even more so KraljeviÊ’s Parisian opuses, the Vienna and Munich chapters were closed and a new one was opened in Croatian modern art. The Modern Gallery eventually became a crucial point in the Zagreb and Croatian memory, and certainly one of the most important factors in the formation of the national artistic and cultural profile of modern times, as well as the promoter of Croatian authors internationally. The exhibition by Miroslav KraljeviÊ, held in the spring of 2014 at Ca’ Pesaro, was not the first exhibition of the Modern Gallery presented in Venice. Indeed, from 1926 to 2009, together with its associates, the Modern Gallery had eight exhibitions at the Venice International Film Festival Mostra. Since Croatia’s independence, it has been even more intensively present on the international art scene with a series of thematic exhibitions on Croatian cultural heritage in the fine arts and contemporary production. In 1991, the exhibition Il paesaggio nella pittura moderna Croata (Landscapes in Croatian Modern Painting) was held in Milan, and Nuevo Arte de Croacia (New Croatian Art) was presented in the most important museums of South America during 1997 and 1998. Croatian art was revealed to Europe in 2000 with the retrospective of Vlaho Bukovac at the National Gallery in Prague, and nine years later at the Gemeentemuseum in The Hague. In 2011, at the Donauschwäbisches Zentralmuseum in Ulm, the exhibition Kroatische moderne Kunst im europaischen Kontext an der Wende vom 19. zum 20. Jhrhundert (Croatian Arts at the Turn of the 20th Century in the European Context), presented about eighty of the most important works of Croatian artists at the turn of the century. Since the fifties of the last century, in addition to its permanent collection, the Modern Gallery has been organizing retrospective and monograph exhibitions of the key protagonists of recent and contemporary national fine art, and thematic exhibitions related to Croatia’s modern heritage. The activities related to the exhibitions became even more intense after the restoration of the palace in 2005 when a bridge was established between 30 exhibition halls that spread over two floors, and artworks were exhibited according to the highest museum standards. The recent permanent exhibition of

the gallery comprises 780 representative exhibits created between 1835 and 2010, which captured the events on the Croatian art scene from the appearance of modern civic society to contemporary production. The Tactile Gallery MG is an important part of the permanent exhibition. This is the first multi-sensory gallery in this part of Europe and it is intended for blind and visually impaired persons who can now use audio guides, tactile diagrams and legends in Braille, which enable them to experience the main works of Croatian painting and sculpture since the 19th century and see the painting and recognize the sculpture in their content and shape. In this way, the Modern Gallery has made current Croatian art available to everyone. Respecting the manifold interests of the contemporary audience and changes in the perception of inherited fine art, the gallery organizes exhibitions within the permanent setup in order to revalue art opuses from the point of view of contemporary knowledge of the historical and artistic profession and affirm the recent work of artists who are at their zenith of creative achievement. In this context, in December of last year, on the occasion of the centenary of the death of Miroslav KraljeviÊ, one of the most important Croatian modernists, the Modern Gallery inaugurated the first comprehensive exhibition of his works and presented one hundred and ninety of KraljeviÊ’s works: oils, watercolours, collages, gouaches, drawings, prints and sculptures. If you happen to be in Osijek or Dubrovnik this autumn or winter, you can see the retrospective exhibition of the champion of Croatian modern painting, which will be held during October and November in the Osijek Gallery of Fine Art, and during December in the Dubrovnik Art Gallery. And in its home, the Vranyczany Palace in Zagreb, in addition to the permanent exhibition, this autumn the Modern Gallery has prepared for its visitors an excellent retrospective of Zlatko Bourek’s paintings and the exhibition by the sculptor Milena Lah, while just before Christmas and the New Year holidays you will be able to see an exhibition of the gallery’s new acquisitions, including many works by the above mentioned artists. Q

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■ OTOCI ISLANDS

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Piπe/By Davorka Vukov ColiÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

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Iako poËeci razvoja turizma na Cresu seæu u 1845. godinu, zbog Ëega je drugo mjesto s najduæom turistiËkom tradicijom na hrvatskom Jadranu, otok danas nije uobiËajeno turistiËko srediπte. Umjesto ljeπkarenja u hotelima najviπih kategorija s wellness centrima i guranja s turistima s kruzera, ovdje 44

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Êete promatrati spektakularan let bjeloglavog supa, tumarati netaknutom πumom Tramuntane i lebdjeti nad morem u gradiÊu Lubenice, smjeπtenome na visini vidikovca njujorπkog Empire State Buildinga. CROATIA AIRLINES

Although the ďŹ rst tourists arrived on the island as early as 1845, and thus started what would become the second longest spanning tourist tradition on the Croatian Adriatic coast, today Cres is not among the top travel destinations in Croatia. Instead of lingering by the pools of high luxury hotels boasting 46

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with wellness facilities and ﬁghting for elbow room with cruise ship passengers, you can observe the spectacular ﬂight of the griffon vulture, explore the old-growth forest of Tramuntana and soar above the sea in the townlet of Lubenice, with a viewing platform equal to that of New York’s Empire State Building. CROATIA AIRLINES

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rije dvije godine jedna je ptica letjela zrakoplovom Croatia Airlinesa, od Kopenhagena do Zagreba. Bio je to mladi, jednogodiπnji bjeloglavi sup Oπtro, koji je odletio iz gnijezda na otoku Cresu do 1800 kilometara udaljenoga πvedskoga grada Tuvea, gdje su ga iznemogloga pronaπli tamoπnji ornitolozi. Bila je to najsjevernija europska toËka na kojoj je ta vrsta veliËanstvenih ptica grabljivica iz porodice jastrebova, raspona krila i do 2.8 metara, ikad viena. Oπtro je tako oborio rekord u letu kraljeva nebeskih visina, tim viπe πto je bio teæak manje od πest kilograma, nedovoljno da preæivi takvu pustolovinu. Ipak, preæivio je, a πvedski ornitolozi smjestili su ga u oporaviliπte nedaleko od Göteborga, uhranili i dovezli do Kopenhagena, otkud je, umjesto na svojim krilima, u Zagreb doletio meunarodnom linijom hrvatskoga zraËnog prijevoznika, te je vraÊen na jadranski otok Cres. Æelite li i vi zrakoplovom do tog otoka u Kvarnerskom zaljevu, moæete sletjeti u rijeËku zraËnu luku, zatim cestom do istarske Brestove, otkud Êete trajektom produæiti do creske trajektne luke Porozine ili iz krËkog mjesta Valbiska trajektom do creskog Merga, gdje Êete uz malo sreÊe i strpljenja uæivati u spektakularnom letu supova. Oπtro i njegova druæina najpoznatiji su krilati prastanovnici otoka, uza susjedni Krk najveÊega i poslije Hvara najduljega na Jadranu. Protegnut na 66 kilometara, njime se rasprπilo nekoliko desetaka starih gradiÊa, seoceta i naselja, od kojih su neka ostala tek kao okamenjene ruπevine obrasle u brπljanu kakve zaboravljene Arkadije u koju zalutaju uporni πetaËi i ovce, kojih na otoku ima posvuda. VeÊa pak mjesta, poput grada Cresa, nude bogatu raznolikost toga razigranog otoka. Nekada je Cres bio tankom prevlakom povezan sa susjednim Loπinjem, ali odvojen je uskim Osorskim kanalom i spojen mostom, te se ovdje u proπlosti odvijao glavni tranzitni promet izmeu sjevernog Jadrana i dalmatinske obale. Zbog toga je gradiÊ Osor na creskoj obali kanala izrastao u meunarodnu luku i bogato trgovaËko srediπte, Ëije se nekadaπnje bogatstvo ogleda u zgradama iz 15. i 16. stoljeÊa, gradskoj vijeÊnici s natkrivenom loæom, biskupskoj palaËi i velebnoj katedrali. Cres i Loπinj odvojeni su ﬁziËki, ali administrativno povezani, jer grad je Cres, najveÊe mjesto na otoku, administrativna jedinica koja obuhvaÊa sjeverni i srediπnji dio Cresa, a juæni dio potpada pod grad Mali Loπinj. Æivot otoka usredotoËio se u gradu Cresu, æivahnoj luci okruæenoj maslinicima, nekada poznatoj po ribarstvu, pomorstvu i brodogradnji. Staru jezgru tvore uske i visoke kuÊe, naslonjene jedna na drugu,

sa starim grbovima koji simboliziraju zanimanja njihovih vlasnika, labirintom uliËica i glavnim trgom s gradskom loæom, nekada opasan gradskim zidinama. Iako poËeci razvoja turizma na Cresu seæu u 1845., samo godinu dana nakon πto je u Opatiji otvorena vila Angiolina i hotel Kvarner, Ëime je poËeo turizam u Hrvatskoj, otok danas nije uobiËajena turistiËka meka. Otvaranje prvog hotela Miramar na kraju 19. stoljeÊa, u vrijeme kada joπ veÊina gradova na Jadranu nije ni sanjala o gostima, navijestilo je turistiËku eksploziju, ali na njemu danas neÊete naÊi hotele najviπih kategorija s wellness centrima, noÊnim klubovima, turistima s kruzera, ekstra restoranima ni partijanja uza æongliranje DJ-a. To je otok za posjetitelje æeljne mira, mediteranskog ozraËja i maslinika, Mediterana kakav je nekad bio. Cres je otok Ëije se stanovništvo uspješno oduprlo okupaciji betona, Ëelika, stakla, te je zadržao onu neku egzotiku. Cres je Ëista egzotika. Bogata mitologija kvarnerskog podruËja crpila je nadahnuÊe i na tom otoku, raspolovljenom na dva svijeta. Onaj juæni i srednji, tipiËni mediteranski s paπnjaËkim goletima i gustom makijom, te sjeverni, submediteranski s podruËjem Tramuntane, visokim i strmim obalama, rijetkim naseljima, πkrtom vegetacijom i kraπkim paπnjacima, prelazeÊi na sjeveroistoku u gustu mitsku πumu visokog hrasta medunca, graba, brijesta i kestena. U srce otoka ukopalo se slatkovodno jezero Vrana okruæeno πpiljama i novozasaenom πumom borova − za stanovnike Cresa i Loπinja pitka voda kao dragocjeni izvor æivota, te nije Ëudno πto se ovdje povijest mjeri tisuÊama godina. I dokazuje ostacima liburnijskih gradina, antiËkih gradova, ranokatoliËkih crkvica, samostana i graevina iz venecijanskog razdoblja. A u æupnoj crkvi sv. Marka, u naselju Valun juæno od grada Cresa, Ëuva se dragocjeni spomenik hrvatske pismenosti, Valunska ploËa. Taj dvojeziËni i dvopisamski natpis iz 11. stoljeÊa, na kojemu je tekst na hrvatskoj obloj glagoljici i latinskom pismu karolini, svjedoËi o kontinuitetu i opstojnosti hrvatskoga kulturnog biÊa. Raritet predstavlja i Senjski misal ili Misal po zakonu rimskog dvora, koji se Ëuva u Samostanu sv. Franje sagraenome potkraj 12. stoljeÊa. Senjski misal prva je pisana hrvatska knjiga otisnuta 1483. godine, 28 godina nakon dovrπetka Ëetrdesetdvoredne Biblije i predstavlja prvu europsku knjigu koja nije tiskana latiniËnim slovima (tiskana glagoljica). Jedan je od tri preostala originalna primjerka. Revizijom iz 1997. godine utvreno je da creski Samostan sv. Frane Ëuva joπ 27 inkunabula (tzv. prvotisci).

Na zapadnome i juænom dijelu nanizale su se mnogobrojne uvale i πljunkovite plaæe, na sjevernoj i istoËnoj strani ustremile su se visoke, sure stijene. Na litici jedne od njih, na 378 metara visine, kao da stojite na vrhu njujorπkog Empire State Buildinga, smjestio se kameni gradiÊ Lubenice, ispod kojega vas Ëeka samo provalija i beskrajna morska puËina. U srednjemu vijeku Lubenice su stoga s razlogom bile najbolja osmatraËnica i jedno od vaænih geostrateπkih srediπta arhipelaga. Danas bi mogla biti savrπena lokacija za kakvu ﬁlmsku maπtariju tipa Gospodara prstenova i sasvim posebno mjesto za sluπanje Rossinijeve komiËne opere BraËna mjenica ili neku izvedbu ansambla za ranu glazbu Marco Polo na LubeniËkim glazbenim veËerima. Saviti gradsko gnijezdo u takvoj ptiËjoj perspektivi, meu oblacima, do Ëega se moæe vinuti samo bjeloglavi sup, nije bilo lako, ali tu se uporno æivjelo Ëetiri tisuÊljeÊa, sve do ovih dana kada se zaustavilo vrijeme i viπe nema stanovnika mlaih od πezdeset i pet godina. Tek kad se spustite u podnoæje Lubenica, otkrit Êete plaæu Sv. Ivan, jednu od mnogih na otoku, koju je zbog dramatiËne pozadine i bisernog mora njemaËki Bild svrstao na petnaesto mjesto meu Ëetrdeset najljepπih plaæa na svijetu. I dom bjeloglavog supa, gradiÊ Beli, Caput Insulae (Glava otoka), kako ga je nazvao car Tiberije, ili Orlovo gnijezdo, kako ga joπ zovu domaÊi, smjeπten je visoko u brdu, sa zaπtiÊenom luËicom i πljunËanom plaæom u podnoæju. Stari rimski most i nekoliko bunara svjedoËe o naselju iz rimskih vremena. Bjeloglavi sup, Ëijih je Ëak 80 parova upravo ovdje pronaπlo svoj dom, postao je i svojevrsni brand otoka Cresa. U Belom je pokrenuta i priËa o cjelovitoj zaπtiti bioraznolikosti otoka i kulturno-povijesnog naslijea Tramuntane, edukaciji i buduÊnosti ekoturizma. Na sedam pouËnih ekostaza duæine πezdeset kilometara oblikovano je sedam labirinta Tramuntane, s idejom da se preko njih otvori duhovni dijalog Ëovjeka i prirode. Pritom su samo CROATIA AIRLINES

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slijedili nekadaπnje putove koji su povezivali danas napuπtena sela. Kako netko reËe, da biste nauËili vidjeti i Ëuti, morate potpuno sami kroËiti u divljinu, a nju Êete naÊi ako iz Beloga krenete prema naselju Ivanje, pa uskom cestom što se pretvara u puteljak poete u netaknutu πumu, koja svojom gustoÊom i Ëudesnim oblicima osuπenih hrastova asocira na fantastiËni svijet hrvatske spisateljice Ivane BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ. Na proplancima nabasat Êete na Vesnin labirint, posveÊen starohrvatskoj božici proljeÊa, Ladin labirint, posveÊen starohrvatskoj božici ljubavi i ljepote, labirint vatre i vode... Kada hrvatskom gurmanu spomenete Cres, on Êe vas odmah podsjetiti na mladu cresku janjetinu i ekstra djeviËansko maslinovo ulje. Kao nekada, ovce i danas uzgajaju na slobodnoj ispaπi, a bogato aromatiËno bilje, zaËinjeno morskom soli πto je donose vjetrovi, creskoj janjetini daju osobito delikatan okus. A otoËani je znaju pripremiti na niz naËina, pa je to jedino mjesto gdje sam je kuπala pohanu. Bila je podjednako ukusna kao i ona s raænja. Na jelovnicima restorana i konoba uz ribu, plodove mora i janjetinu, Ëesto Êete naÊi i divljaË, jer ovdje je ima zbog πumskog okruæja. Tu bogatu raznolikost Cresani nastoje promicati popularnim gastronomskim dogaanjima kao πto su Brudetijada (riba), Gulaπijada (divljaË), Dani creske janjetine i creskoga maslinovog ulja (Ævacetijada), Granceta fest − kuhanje jela od rakova tzv. granceta, Feπta od dagnji, Dani treπanja, Dani smokava... Trodnevni Semenj (starohrvatska rijeË za sajam) poËinje na Dan Majke Boæje Snjeæne u poËetku kolovoza, a tradicionalna puËka sveËanost, koja vuËe korijenje iz 16. stoljeÊa, danas je vesela turistiËka manifestacija, kao πto je to i u nas jedini meunarodni ljetni karneval. U gradu Cresu ljubitelji jazza doÊi Êe na svoje na Meunarodnom CREScendo Music Festivalu, ljubitelji ozbiljne glazbe na Osorskim glazbenim veËerima, a Dani Frane PetriÊa, manifestacija nazvana u spomen na poznatoga hrvatskog ﬁlozofa, humanista i znanstvenika, vaæno su odrediπte znanstvenika i struËnjaka iz Hrvatske i inozemstva. Za svakoga poneπto, ali bez turistiËke halabuke. A ako je suditi po putnim navikama bjeloglavog supa, Oπtro sada nije na Cresu. Mladi supovi, naime, najprije odlaze na svoje petogodiπnje lutanje svijetom, te se tek nakon te pustolovine vraÊaju u svoju koloniju, savijaju gnijezdo i ostaju na otoku do kraja æivota, 30 do 40 godina, koliki je njihov æivotni vijek. Kao da tako i oni oponaπaju ustrajnost i vjernost stanovnika Cresa, koji se nakon mnogih obilazaka brojnih svjetova, kao moreplovci, struËnjaci i trgovci, u velikoj veÊini ipak vraÊaju svome otoku. Cres je vaπ otok i vaπ svjetionik, prilika da spo-

znate sebe i da doæivite iskonsku prirodu. To je mjesto na koje Êete se radosno vraÊati i gdje Êe vas uvijek radosno doËekivati. NO STRESS ON CRES. ■

wo years ago a bird flew from Copenhagen to Zagreb with the help of the wings of a Croatia Airlines aircraft. The bird was a young, one-year old griffon vulture Oπtro, who had left his nest on the island of Cres and flew as far as the Swedish town of Tuve, 1,800 kilometres away, where he was found, all exhausted, by local ornithologists. That was the northernmost point in Europe where the magnificent bird of prey, whose wing span can extend up to 2.8 metres, had ever been seen. By flying so far, Oπtro had broken the king of the airspace flying record, which was all the more a remarkable achievement based on the fact that he weighed less than six kilos; not nearly enough to survive such an adventure. Still, he survived, and the Swedish ornithologists took him to a bird rescue sanctuary not far from Goteborg, put some weight on him and drove him to Copenhagen. From there, he was flown back to Zagreb, and then on to Cres, with a little help from the Croatia airlines wings. If you want to get to this island in the Bay of Kvarner yourself, after landing at Rijeka Airport you have to take a journey by road to Brestova in Istria and then a ferry to the harbour of Porozine on Cres. Alternatively, you can take a ferry from Valbiska harbour on the island of Krk to Merag on Cres. With a little bit of luck and patience, you will be able to spot the vultures and delight in their spectacular flight. Oπtro and his mates are the best known and oldest winged settlers of this island, which is the second largest island only to its neighbour Krk and the second longest only to the island of Hvar. Stretching for 66 kilometres, the island is home to several dozens of old townlets, villages and hamlets. Some are nothing more than stony ruins of a forgotten Arcadia covered in ivy and visited only by the most adventurous and persistent strollers and sheep which are a common site all over the island. By contrast, larger settlements, including the namesake town of Cres, epitomize the rich variety of this playful island. In the past, Cres and the neighbouring island of Loπinj were connected by a thin strip of land. The two were subsequently separated by the narrow Osor Canal and reconnected by a bridge. This was where most of the transit traffic between the Northern Adriatic and the Dalmatian Coast took place in the past. As a result, the townlet of Osor on the island of Cres developed into an international harbour and a

wealthy centre of trade. The former wealth is still reflected in the 15th and 16th century buildings, the town hall with a roofed loggia, the bishop’s palace and the magnificent cathedral. Cres and Loπinj may have been physically separated but they are part of the same administrative district: the town of Cres, the biggest on the island, is the administrative centre of a district encompassing the northern and central parts of Cres, while the southern part of the island of Cres falls under the town of Mali Loπinj. Most of the urban living on the island is concentrated in the town of Cres, a lively harbour surrounded by olive groves; a place once known for its fishing industry, maritime trade and shipbuilding. The old part of the town features terraces of narrow and tall buildings, boasting old crests which reveal their owners’ profession. The labyrinth of narrow streets leads to the main square with a loggia, in the heart of what used to be a walled city. Although the first tourists arrived in Cres as early as 1845, only a year after Villa Angiolina and Kvarner Hotel opened their doors to tourists in Opatija and marked the beginning of tourism in Croatia, interestingly enough, the island has not become a staple tourist Mecca. The opening of the first hotel, Miramar, at the end of the 19th century heralded a tourist explosion at the time when the majority of other Adriatic cities could hardly dream of receiving guests. However, more than a century later, the island still does not boast the highest category hotels with wellness facilities, night clubs or top restaurants. It is not on the beaten path of cruise ship guests or party vultures who are entertained by deck juggling DJs. This island is meant for visitors seeking peace, the Mediterranean allure and olive groves; the Mediterranean as it once was. The population of Cres has successfully kept concrete, steel and glass at bay. Instead, they have preserved the island’s exotic atmosphere. Cres is the essence of the exotic. The rich mythology of the Kvarner region drew a lot of its inspiration from this island, which is CROATIA AIRLINES

divided into two distinct parts. The southern and central areas are made up of typical Mediterranean landscapes featuring vast grazing fields and thick shrubbery, while the northern, subMediterranean region consists of Tramuntana, high and steep cliff-like shores, sparse habitation, parsimonious vegetation and pastures in karst fields which, as you travel northeast, turn into a dense mythical forest of tall downy oak, hornbeam, elm and chestnut trees. The fresh-water Vrana Lake digs deep into the heart of the island, surrounded by caves and the newly planted fir tree forest. For the inhabitants of Cres and Loπinj, drinking water has always been a precious source of life. Therefore, it is not surprising that the history of habitation on the islands spans thousands of years. The remains of Lyburnian settlements, ancient towns, early Catholic churches, monasteries and edifices built by Venetians bear ample witness to that. The parish church of St. Mark in Valun, a settlement south of the town of Cres, safeguards a cherished monument to Croatian literacy, the Valun Tablet. The 11th century inscription in two languages, the Croatian Glagolitic script and the Latinic Carolina script, testifies to the continuity and perseverance of Croatian cultural identity. Another rarity is the Missal of Senj or Missale Romanum Glagolitice, which is kept in the Franciscan Monastery erected in the late 12th century. The Missal of Senj is the first Croatian book ever printed in 1483, only 28 years after the 42-line Bible, as the first missal in Europe not printed in the Latin script, but in the Croatian angular Glagolitic script. It is one of the only three remaining copies. The 1997 review established that there are 27 other incunabula (so-called first copies) in the Franciscan Monastery in Cres. While the western and southern parts are adorned by strings of bays and pebble beaches, the northern and eastern parts offer a dramatic view of high bare rocks. On the very top of one of them, at an altitude of 378 74

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metres, equalling the height of New York’s Empire State Building, you will find the stony village of Lubenice. There is nothing but a precipice and the endless sea below it. It is quite understandable that in the Middle Ages Lubenice served as the best observation post and one of the most important geostrategic centres of the entire archipelago. Today, this could be the perfect location for a film set in the Lord of the Rings-type reverie and a special venue for the performance of Rossini’s operatic comical farce The Bill of Marriage. Or, it could even be the stage for the Marco Polo Ensemble performing their early music during the Musical Evenings in Lubenice. It was certainly not easy to set up an urban dwelling in such a birds’ environment, among the clouds, at a place easily accessible only by griffon vultures. Nevertheless, people have lived here for four thousand years, until this very day, when time has stopped and there are no more inhabitants of Lubenice under the age of 65. When you come down from Lubenice you will discover St. Ivan’s Beach, one of the many on the island. Because of its dramatic background and translucent sea, the German newspaper Bild ranked it 15th among the top 40 most beautiful beaches in the world. The abode of the griffon vulture, the townlet of Beli or Caput Insulae (the Head of the Island), as the Emperor Tiberius called it, or the Eagle’s Nest, the pet name given to it by the locals, is also nestled high up on a hilltop, with a well-protected harbour and a pebble beach at its foot. The old Roman bridge and several water wells bear witness to the Roman origin of the settlement. As many as 80 griffon vulture couples have found their home here making the species the trademark of Cres. In addition to protecting the griffon vulture, the centre in Beli has extended its mission to the overall protection of the biological diversity of the island and the cultural and historical heritage of Tramuntana, as well as to the education and the future of environmentally friendly tourism. Seven educational eco-trails, with a total length of some 60 kilometres, have shaped the seven labyrinths of Tramuntana. The underlying idea was to open a spiritual dialogue between people and nature. The new trails were mapped along the former roads which used to connect the villages on the island, which nowadays are sadly abandoned. As somebody once said, if you wish to learn how to see and hear, you have to set out into the wilderness on your own. You will find wilderness if you set out from Beli towards Ivanje, and then proceed along the narrow road which becomes a path and enters the virgin forest. Its density and the fantastically shaped old oak trunks are reminiscent of

the mystical world of the Croatian writer Ivana BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ. One of the openings in the forest reveals Vesna’s Labyrinth, dedicated to the old Croatian goddess of spring, as well as Lada’s Labyrinth, dedicated to the old Croatian goddess of love and beauty, followed by the labyrinth of fire and water... If you mention Cres to an aficionado of good Croatian food they will immediately remind you of young lamb from Cres and extra virgin olive oil. Just like in the past, sheep still graze freely, while the highly aromatic plants, imbued with sea salt carried by the wind, give a particularly delicate flavour to lamb from Cres. The islanders have many ways of preparing it. This is the only place where I had it coated in breadcrumbs and deep-fried. It was as delicious as spit roasted. Besides lamb, the restaurant and wine cellar menus feature seafood and fish, as well as game, which the surrounding forest abounds with. The islanders are trying to promote the rich diversity of the island by staging gastro events such as Brudetijada (Fish Stew Festival), Gulaπijada (Goulash Festival), Days of Cres Lamb and Cres Olive Oil (Ævacetijada), Granceta fest − preparing food with sea crustaceans or so-called granceta, Mussel Fest (Feπta od dagnji), Cherry Days, Fig Days... The three-day Semenj fair starts on the Day of Our Lady of the Snow at the beginning of August. The traditional festival, which dates back to the 16th century, has become a cheerful tourist event, as well as the only international summer carnival. Jazz lovers flock to Cres during the International CREScendo Music Festival; the Osor Musical Evenings offer treats to classical music lovers, while the Days of Frane PetriÊ, an event named after the well known Croatian philosopher, humanist and scientist, is a must for scientists and experts from Croatia and abroad. There is something for everybody, without the tourist hullabaloo. If one is to judge by the griffon vultures’ travel habits, Oπtro is currently not on Cres. Young birds first roam the world for five years and only when that adventure is over do they return to their colony, make a nest and stay on the island until the end, for 30 or 40 years, which is their expected life span. They seem to emulate the perseverance and loyalty of the islanders who, having travelled all over the world and having explored its various corners as seafarers, experts and merchants, return to their native island in great numbers. Cres is your island and your light tower. It offers an opportunity to get to know yourself and experience pure nature. You will always want to return to it, and when you do, there will always be a warm welcome awaiting you. NO STRESS ON CRES. ■

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Zagreb’s st>y

ZagrebaĖka ŶiĖa

Zagreb, the capital of the Republic of Croatia, is one of the oldest European cities and is yet one of Europe’s youngest metropolises. Despite being a Central European city in geography, culture and baroque architecture, in many ways, Zagreb has a Mediterranean way of life. Thanks to its many inﬂuences, the city has a special charm and hospitable feel generated by its open-hearted people. Many say that nothing compares to this city! The journey through Zagreb is a never ending story. You may best learn about it by walking down the city streets and enjoying a cappuccino in one of its many city cafes. It is a well-known center of culture where you can ﬁnd one interesting exhibition after another; there is a host of theatrical and musical performances of all styles and expressions. Many world famous names will appear on Zagreb’s stages in the upcoming season and beautiful autumn in Zagreb we are starting with Bundekfest. A rich musical, gastronomic and entertaining program is being prepared for the period September 25 - October 5. Located by the Bundek Lake, this year’s festival is accompanied by partner cities - Budapest, Vienna, Ljubljana, and Rome which will all give a special charm to the Croatian capital and exclusive cultural, gastronomic and amusing happening. Nevertheless, the biggest value of this city is its atmosphere and the people who never allow you to feel alone. Zagreb has a story to tell and it has a heart, a big heart.

Zagreb, glavni grad Republike Hrvatske, jedan je od najstarijih europskih gradova, ali i jedna od najmlaih europskih metropola. Iako kulturom i zemljopisnim položajem srednjoeuropski, arhitekturom barokni, Zagreb u mnogoËemu živi mediteranskim naËinom života. I baš zbog tog spoja on je - priznaju to njegovi gosti - grad speciﬁËnoga šarma i gostoljubivih, srdaËnih ljudi. Mnogi kažu, bez konkurencije! Putovanje Zagrebom ovime nije završilo. Možda Êete ga najbolje upoznati u šetnji gradom, uz cappuccino u nekoj od mnogobrojnih gradskih kavana. Uz bogatu ponudu kazališnih predstava, galerija i izložbi, Zagreb je i u ovoj sezoni domaÊin mnogim svjetski poznatim imenima. Dug popis dogaanja koja Êe se u Zagrebu održavati sljedeÊih mjeseci, dokazuju da grad živi doista dinamiËno, a festival Bundekfest Êe Zagreb u prvim jesenskim danima uËiniti europskom festivalskom prijestolnicom. Na jezeru Bundek, u periodu od 25. rujna do 5. listopada 2014., oËekuju nas nastupi brojnih glazbenih zvijezda, bogata gastro ponuda, ali i zabavni sadržaji. U društvu partnerskih gradova Budimpešte, BeËa, Ljubljane i Rima, zagrebaËka jesen dobit Êe poseban šarm i ekskluzivno kulturno, gastro i zabavno putovanje. Meutim, najveÊa vrijednost ovoga grada za mnoge je ipak njegova atmosfera i ljudi zbog kojih nikad niste sami. Zagreb ima priËu i srce, veliko srce.

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ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD

www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr tel. + 385 (0)1 481 40 51

Treat Yourself with

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■ BAŠTINA HERITAGE

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Vidio sam anela u mramoru, i klesao dok ga nisam oslobodio. Michelangelo (1475.−1564.) I saw the angel in the marble and carved until I set him free Michelangelo (1475 ∑ 1564)

Piše/By Goran StojanoviÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Željko TutnjeviÊ

Ljetnikovac BuniÊ-Kaboga (Bona-Caboga) na Rijeci dubrovaËkoj ladanjski je kompleks na vodi koji predstavlja jedno od vrhunskih ostvarenja dubrovaËke gotiËko-renesansne arhitekture. Zbog upornosti posljednjeg nasljednika dubrovaËke vlastelinske obitelji Caboga, ljetnikovac je potpuno obnovljen te u novom ruhu darovan zajednici. The Villa BuniÊ-Kaboga (Bona-Caboga) on the River of Dubrovnik is a waterside complex which represents one of the superior achievements of Dubrovnik’s gothic-renaissance architecture. Owing to the perseverance of the last descendant of Dubrovnik’s noble family Caboga, the villa has been completely restored and donated to the community in its new attire.

ekst o nastanku i povijesti jedne vrijedne baπtine ladanjske arhitekture dubrovaËkog podruËja inicirat Êu priËom. Poznato je da upravo priËe, koje se Ëesto svrstavaju u legende, bajke ili anegdote, u primatelja produbljuju vrijednosti, slobodu, vjeru, hrabrost ili spokoj uz britku samospoznaju, koja, kao kakva ispunjena zagonetka, odjednom osvijetljena jednostavnim pouËkom, izranja iz svog vremena i prostora. Uvodna priËa Nasljednik prijestolja govori o drevnom kralju, koji je imao dva sina blizanca. Kako mu potomstvo bi jednako pametno, lijepo, sposobno i odano, kralj je danima i noÊima razmiπljao kako da izabere nasljednika kraljevstva, ali ni u najbliæih suradnika nije dobio dobar savjet. Jednoga dana u dvor naie stari pustinjak, zatraæivπi prijam kod kralja. Namjeravao mu je saopÊiti nešto vaæno i povjerljivo. Kralj, istinoljubiv i dobre Êudi, primi ga u audijenciju. Starac mu reËe da je Ëuo kako traæi savjet

oko nasljednika te mu je slobodan predloæiti kako odabrati pravog. Sinovi su ti u svemu sliËni, osim u jednoj stvari, a ona je najvaænija za vladara. Predlaæem da svakomu od sinova dadeπ dva novËiÊa i uputiπ ih da za taj iznos, svaki posebno, kupi neπto Ëime Êe ispuniti prijestolnu dvoranu. Po njihovu Êeπ izboru moÊi izabrati nasljednika. Jedan sin kupi vreÊu sitnog pijeska koju razastre po dvorani. Drugi, oËistivπi pijesak, unese veliku svijeÊu postavivπi je u srediπte prostora. Upaljena, ona obasja dvoranu. Kralj tada zadovoljno reËe: Ti si izabrao ono πto je svima na korist. Od svjetlosti svijeÊe svi bolje vidimo. Ti si odabrani nasljednik, jer pokazao si osobinu najvaæniju za vladara: da misliπ na druge! Misliti na potrebe drugih, donositi mudre i dugoroËne odluke, odlika je dobronamjernih, jednostavnih i velikih ljudi kojima je svijet jednine jedini kojemu teæe; svijet Ëiji se dodir sa stvarnoπÊu mjeri neoËekivano drugaËijim parametrom od onoga na koji smo naviknuli. PriËa o ljetnikovcu CROATIA AIRLINES

BuniÊ-Kaboga i njezinim baπtinicima iskazuje sadræaj dostojan takvih naËela. Ljetnikovci DubrovaËke Republike iz petnaestog i πesnaestog stoljeÊa osobita su arhitektonska dostignuÊa koja su odraæavala osobni ukus vlasnika te moÊ i rezultat njegovih gospodarskih interesa. Graeni su u doba kad je dubrovaËki teritorij veÊ bio zaokruæen te siguran za æivot i izvan zidina svoga grada − dræave. U poËetku Ëetrnaestog stoljeÊa, prostori na kojima su ljetnikovci graeni prostirali su se na uskom kopnenom prostoru izmeu Cavtata i Oraπca te Elafitskih otoka. U tom i stoljeÊu poslije, kada je Dubrovnik veÊ stekao dodatni izvangradski teritorij koji ukljuËuje poluotok Peljeπac, Konavle i otok Lastovo, ljetnikovci poËinju sve više nicati, tako da ih je do kraja 16. stoljeÊa sagraeno viπe od dvije stotine. Gradnji tih ladanjskih prostora pogodovalo je i to što je Dubrovnik u to doba veÊ bio prenapuËen i buËan te je plemstvo i trgovaËka elita teæila izlasku iz gradskih zidina u okruæje prirodnih ljepota, u svoje novosagraene ladanjsko rezidencijalne krajolike. U to vrijeme dubrovaËku ideologiju ispunjava i literatura talijanskih humanista, koja pridonosi idealiziranju æivota u prirodi te mijenja koncepciju, u kojoj rad na zemlji ima i uzviπen smisao. Oni koji su mogli, izmicali su se od beπÊutne dvoliËnosti svakodnevice traæeÊi slobodu u savrπenom skladu sa svekolikom Prirodom. Ljetnikovci su bili i mjesta slobode koje u Gradu nije bilo, prostor u kojem se uæivalo u πetnjama, gozbama i ribolovima. To su bili i omiljeni prostori dubrovaËkih filozofa i pjesnika, humanista i pisaca, smjeπteni u zelenoplave krajolike tadaπnje Republike. Osobitost dubrovaËkih ljetnikovaca istiËe se i u njihovoj arhitekturi. Ladanjske kuÊe bile su redovito jednokatne, a na njih okomito su se prikljuËivala prizemna krila s orsanom, spremiπtem za manja plovila, osobito brojna na obalama Gruæa i Omble te na otocima. Orsani su bili i ulazna vrata u ladanjski posjed jer tada se njima moglo prilaziti jedino morem. UnatoË tomu, vrtovi ljetnikovaca bili su osigurani visokim ogradnim zidovima koji su Ëuvali mir i privatnost veleposjednika. U njima je Ëak i najmanji dio bio racionalno organiziran, a od renesanse svakom posjetitelju bila je vidljiva perspektivna simetrija sadnih povrπina i ravnih staza. Vrtovi ljetnikovaca na Gruæu i Rijeci dubrovaËkoj obilovali su fontanama i ribnjacima, koji su se veÊ tada napajali vodom iz vodovoda. Ljetnikovac BuniÊ-Kaboga pripada skupini najvrednijih spomenika kulturne baπtine i dubrovaËke ladanjske arhitekture iz πestnaestog stoljeÊa, koji su na specifiËan naËin oblikovali krajolik na uπÊu Rijeke dubrovaËke (Omble), u predjelu od davnina zvanom Batahovina. Ovaj 80

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Project management. Property consulting. Construction & Architect Abis savjetovanje d.o.o. • Abis Consulting Ltd. Nikole Tavelića 50, 21 000 Split • Tel: +385 (0) 98 265 151, Fax: +385 (0)21 473 010 • E-mail: info@abis-croatia.com

www.a bis-croa tia .com ladanjski komples sagraen na vodi ukljuËuje gotiËko-renesansno zdanje s trijemom, loom, orsanom, kapelicom sv. Bernarda i terasastim vrtovima koji se, u ograenom veleposjedu, dijele na prednje i stražnje, ponegdje i boËne. PriËa o ovom ljetnikovcu poËinje s vlastelinskim rodom Bona (BuniÊa), Ëiji uspon poËinje joπ u trinaestom stoljeÊu kroz uspjeπnu djelatnost trgovine srebrom, olovom, æitom, solju i tkaninama, a sredinom sljedeÊeg stoljeÊa postali su jedna od najbogatijih dubrovaËkih vlastelinskih obitelji. U to vrijeme BuniÊi kupuju lijepi posjed na Batahovini s blagim padinama k moru, na kojoj poËinju graditi svoj ljetnikovac oko 1520. Iz prve faze gradnje, koja je trajala dvadesetak godina, saËuvani su svi arhitektonski dijelovi i raspored prostorija. Trijem je pokriven terasom koja se produæuje do ogradnog zida vrta, povezujuÊi kuÊu s kapelicom, obiteljskim oratorium privatium, najviπim statusnim simbolom i privilegijem toga doba. Kako se takva kapelica nalazi na terasi ljetnikovca, njoj se posveÊivala dostojna paænja u ukraπavanju. Upravo kapelica BuniÊeva ljetnikovca, u kojoj i danas leæi tijelo feldmarπala Bernarda Caboge, koju je sagradio 1538. godine Petar AndrijiÊ, ujedno i autor crkve sv. Spasa u Dubrovniku, jedna je od najljepπih na dubrovaËkom podruËju. Nakon velikog potresa 1667. godine, u kojem

pogiba veliki dio muπkog plemstva BuniÊa, ljetnikovac prelazi u posjed vlastelinskog roda Kaboga (Caboga). Najpoznatiji potomci tog roda, koji se prvi put spominju veÊ u desetom stoljeÊu, bili su Marojica Bernardov Caboga, dubrovaËki poklisar koji je u vrijeme velikog kaosa i potpune dezorijentacije nakon razornog potresa 1667. godine, kao srediπnja ﬁgura i politiËki lider, svojom hrabroπÊu, autoritetom i mudroπÊu uspostavio red i spasio æivot Grada i DubrovaËke Republike, te feldmarπal Bernard Caboga, koji je imao veliku karijeru u austrijskoj vojsci u devetnaestom stoljeÊu i Ëesto, kad je god mogao, pomagao svom Gradu. PoËevši od gospara Marojice, ljetnikovac su posjedovali Ëlanovi obitelji Kaboga, pa su meu njima bili i naruËitelji radova izvedenih u osamnaestom i devetnaestom stoljeÊu. NajznaËajnija intervencija u drugoj fazi ureenja bila je gradnja novog stubiπta. U prizemlju ljetnikovca mijenja se tada format i svod centralnog salona (saloËe), koji postaje predvorje novog stubiπta, a preureenjem interijera uvode se snaæna stilska obiljeæja baroka i klasicizma. Osobitost arhitekture raspoznaje se i u organizaciji unutarnjega i vanjskog prostora; prizemlje se povezuje s vrtom, a kat otvara krajoliku. Velika dvorana bila je u kasnom osamnaestom stoljeÊu oslikana svijetloplavom bojom s deko-

Kapelica sv. Bernarda, interijer/ The Chapel of st. Bernard, interior

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racijom. I u boËne Ëetiri sobe na katu otkriveni su viπestruki preboji zidova, dokazujuÊi kontinuitet stanovanja i stilskog ukusa. U drugoj polovici devetnaestog stoljeÊa BuniÊ-Kabogin te susjedni Stayev ljetnikovac postaju posjed istog vlasnika. Njihovi vrtovi tada se povezuju πetnicama. Tijekom gradnje Jadranske ceste πezdesetih godina dvadesetog stoljeÊa prednji vrt i orsan ljetnikovca znatno su skraÊeni. Proπirenje ceste i nasipavanje obale prekinuli su vezu ljetnikovca s Omblom, vezu koja je bila i izvorni smisao njegove gradnje i postojanja. Posljednji potomak obitelji Caboga doktor je kemijskih znanosti Ivo Felner, kojega uz Dubrovnik i njegov ljetnikovac veæu mnoge uspomene. U trogodiπnjem je razdoblju, velikom upornoπÊu, vizijom i kvalitetnim timom suradnika, visokom donacijom zaklade Batahovina Foundation potpuno obnovio ljetnikovac, kapelicu sv. Bernarda i vrtove, vratio im æivot, te ih darovnim ugovorom predao na upravljanje Dubrovniku i Republici Hrvatskoj s misijom da sav ladanjski kompleks saæivi kao nezaobilazno mjesto kulturnih zbivanja u Dubrovniku. Projekt obnove, Ëija je vrijednost bila gotovo tri milijuna eura, temeljen je na istraæivanjima povjesniËarke umjetnosti dr. Nade GrujiÊ uz struËnu suradnju Hrvatskoga restauratorskog zavoda i arhitektonskog studija Vetma. U obnovljeni ljetnikovac smjestili su se uredi Hrvatskoga restauratorskog zavoda, tu se nalazi i memorijalna soba obitelji Caboga, koja Êe imati javnu i kulturnu namjenu. Cijeli ladanjski kompleks BuniÊ-Kaboga sa Stayevim ljetnikovcem u sluæbi je zajednice. Kabogin ljetnikovac s kapelicom i vrtovima, πetnicama i terasom pun je obnovljenog sjaja i decentne raskoπi koja ispunjava mnogo veÊi prostor od ograenoga. Poslije viπe desetljeÊa taj ladanjski kompleks, potpuno obnovljen, nudi niz moguÊih aktivnosti usmjerenih kulturi kroz glazbu, edukaciju, vjenËanja, razliËite radionice, susrete. U njemu se osjeÊa kreativna energija stvaranja; mjesto susreta i razmjene miπljenja restauratora, glazbenika, slikara, profesora i studenata, zaljubljenika u umjetnost i dubrovaËku baπtinu, koja, kao uzorni primjer, poziva u obnovu i druge dubrovaËke ljetnikovce. Do jedne granice moæe se opisivati more; preko te granice mora se zaplivati. Iskazati Ëin nesebiËnog darivanja za dobrobit zajednice, poticati jedinstvo koje viπe nije tek subjektivna ideja, nego poticajna istina, mogu samo rijetki. Takva djela vode prema slobodi mnogo istanËanijeg savrπenstva te otvaraju prostor i vidik neograniËenog napretka za sve one kojima je moguÊe razumjeti snagu dobroga, koju nose u sebi. U kraljevstvu materijalnoga, ljudi su ljubomorno

FIND OUT WHY THE PUBLIC HAS TITLED KHL MEDVEŠČAK ZAGREB THE ‘SPORTO’ BRAND, MOST APPEALING BRAND AMONG SPORTS CLUBS IN CROATIA AND THE REGION IN 2013 AND WHY THE WHOLE WORLD CROATIAN ICE HOCKEY CLUB! . IS TALKING ABOUT THIS

Kontinental tal Hockey League eague Championship Championship. Season 201 2014/2015

KHL MEDVEŠČAK ZAGREB vs Slovan, Bratislava (SK)

26 26.09.2014, 09 2014 18:30

Vitjaz Vitjaz, Moscow Reg Reg. (RU)

16.11.2014, 17:30

SKA, St. Petersburg (RU)

29.09.2014, 19:30

Dinamo, Minsk (BY)

19.11.2014, 19:30

SKA, St. Petersburg (RU)

01.10.2014, 19:30

Jokerit, Helsinki (FI)

22.11.2014, 17:30

Dinamo, Riga (LV)

03.10.2014, 18:30

Vitjaz, Moscow Region (RU)

25.11.2014, 19:30

Slovan, Bratislava (SK)

14.10.2014, 19:30

Lokomotiv, Yaroslavl (RU)

27.11.2014, 19:30

Sibir, Novosibirsk Region (RU) 28.10.2014, 19:30

Baris, Astana (KZ)

08.12.2014, 19:30

Metalurg, Novokuznetsk (RU) 29.10.2014, 19:30

Avangard, Omsk Region (RU)

10.12.2014, 19:30

Admiral, Vladivostok (RU)

31.10.2014, 19:30

Salavat Julajev, Ufa (RU)

14.12.2014, 17:30

Amur, Khabarovsk (RU)

02.11.2014, 17:30

Neftehimik, Nizhnekamsk (RU) 22.12.2014, 19:30

Atlant, Moscow Region (RU)

14.11.2014, 19:30

All games are played in the Ice Hall of Dom sportova Zagreb

DEC. 26-31, 2014 KHL MEDVEŠČAK ZAGREB WILL TAKE A PART IN THE OLDEST INVITATIONAL ICE HOCKEY TOURNAMENT IN THE WORLD ‘SPENGLER CUP’ IN DAVOS, SWITZERLAND! www.spenglercup.ch KHL MEDVEŠČAK ZAGREB is the only ice hockey club in the world that has proudly carried the title of UNICEF sports partner since 2010.

tickets available at:

83 www.medvescak.com CROATIA AIRLINES

ponosni na svoje posjede i vlasniËka prava. U takvom kraljevstvu boravi se u svemiru povijesti, u okruæju neprestanog prisjeÊanja s kojim Ëovjek uskovitlava hodoËaπÊe svog razvoja. Postoje i pojedinci, koji imaju boraviπte i u kraljevstvu unutarnjih ostvarivanja, znajuÊi kako iskoraËiti u element nematerijalnih vrijednosti. Gospodin Ivo Felner jedan je od njih. Q

I Kapelica sv. Bernarda/ The Chapel of st. Bernard

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will start this text on the creation and history of a valuable piece of Dubrovnik’s legacy with a story. It is a well known fact that stories which are categorised as legends, fairytales or anecdotes intensify the values, freedom, faith, courage and serenity of those who happen to hear them, and that they enhance the sharp cognition of oneself, which like a completed puzzle, illuminated by a simple morale, all of a sudden emerges from its time and space. The introductory story, The Heir to the Throne, speaks of an ancient king who had twin sons who were equally smart, handsome, able and loyal, so the king spent long days and nights thinking how to choose the heir to his throne, but not even his closest confidants could give him straightforward advice. One day, an old hermit came to the court and asked for an audience with the king on an important and confidential matter. The king, who was of sincere and benevolent disposition, granted him an audience. The old man told the king that he knew about his dilemma regarding his heir, and therefore took the liberty to suggest how he could make the right choice. Your sons are similar but in one thing, and that one thing is the most important for a ruler. I suggest that you give both your sons two coins and instruct them to spend the money, separately, on something that would fill the throne room. Their choice will help you choose your heir. One son bought a bag of fine sand that he strewn across the hall. The other one, having cleaned the sand from the room, bought a big candle and placed it in the very centre of the hall. He lit it and its light brightened up the room. The king then said contentedly: You have chosen something that is of use to everybody. The light of the candle helps us all see better. You are my chosen heir because you have displayed the trait most important for a ruler: you think of others! Thinking of the needs of others and making wise and long-term decisions is a characteristic of the well-meaning, easy-going and great people to whom the world of unity is the only world they strive for; a world whose contact with reality is measured using another parameter, surprisingly different from the one

we are all used to. The story about Villa BuniÊKaboga and its inheritors presents contents worthy of such principles. The summer villas which were built in the Dubrovnik Republic in the 15th and 16th centuries were special architectural achievements. They reflected the owners’ personal tastes as well as their economic power and results of their commercial activities. They were built at a time when the territory of Dubrovnik was already well defined and safe for living, even beyond the walls of the city-state. At the beginning of the 14th century, the summer villas were built along the narrow strip of land stretching from Cavtat to Oraπac and on the Elafiti Islands. They started mushrooming during that century and later when Dubrovnik had already acquired territories beyond the city walls, including Peljeπac Peninsula, Konavle and Lastovo Island. Over two hundred villas were built by the end of the 16th century. The construction of those countryside abodes was prompted by the fact that Dubrovnik had become overpopulated and noisy, and so the nobility and commercial elite sought to leave the city walls and find respite in the beauty of nature, in the environment surrounding their newly constructed countryside residences. At that time the ideology of Dubrovnik was influenced by the literature of Italian humanists which contributed to the creation of an ideal image of life in nature and changed the concept in which working on the land had a lofty meaning. Those who could do so found a way to escape from the callous hypocrisy of everyday life and look for freedom in perfect harmony with all-embracing nature. Summer villas were places of freedom which did not exist in the city, where one could enjoy strolls, banquets and fishing. Nestled in the green and blue countryside of the then Republic, those were the favourite places of Dubrovnik’s philosophers and poets, humanists and writers. A special feature of Dubrovnik’s summer villas was the expression of their architecture. They were all one-storey houses, with perpendicular ground floor wings featuring orsans, boathouses for smaller boats, quite common on the shores of Gruæ and Ombla and on the islands. Those boathouses were also gateways to the seaside estates because the only way they could be accessed at that time was by sea. Despite that, their gardens were surrounded by high walls which preserved the owners’ peace and privacy. Inside, even the tiniest bit of space was rationally organized, and as for their renaissance features, every visitor could notice the perspective of symmetry in the garden plots and the straight paths. The gardens surrounding the summer villas in

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Gruæ and the River of Dubrovnik abounded in fountains and fishponds. Already at that time, they were fed by water from water supply lines. Villa BuniÊ-Kaboga is one of the most valuable monuments of cultural heritage and Dubrovnik’s countryside architecture of the 16th century which, in a very specific way, shaped the landscape of the mouth of the River of Dubrovnik (Ombla) in an area long known as Batahovina. This complex, constructed ‘on the water’, includes a gothic renaissance building with a portico, a loggia, an orsan, the Chapel of St. Bernard and enclosed terraced gardens divided into front and rear portions and sometimes side gardens as well. The story about this summer villa starts with the noble family Bona (BuniÊ), whose ascent to wealth started already in the 13th century with a lucrative trade in silver, lead, wheat, salt and fabrics. In the mid-14th century they became one of the wealthiest noble families in Dubrovnik. At that time, the BuniÊ family purchased a beautiful plot of land in Batahovina, on property that gently sloped towards the sea, and they started building their summer villa there around 1520. The first stage of the construction lasted for some 20 years and all the architectural parts of the building and the floor layout from that time still remain. The portico was roofed by a terrace which extended to the wall surrounding the garden and connected the house with the chapel, the family’s oratorium privatium, the highest status symbol and a privilege at the time. Since the chapel is on the villa’s terrace, it was decorated with due respect. The chapel of BuniÊ’s summer villa, the last resting place of the body of Field Marshal Bernard Caboga, was built in 1538 by Petar AndrijiÊ, the author of the church of St. Salvation in Dubrovnik, and it features as one of the most beautiful such buildings in the entire Dubrovnik region. When the devastating earthquake in 1667 claimed the lives of most of the male members of the noble family BuniÊ, the summer villa became the property of the noble family Kaboga (Caboga). The most famous descendants of the family, which was first mentioned in the 10th century, were Marojica Caboga, Dubrovnik’s ambassador who, during the time 86

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of major chaos and complete disorientation after the calamitous 1667 earthquake, came to the fore as a central figure and political leader and restored order and saved the life of the city and the Dubrovnik Republic with courage, authority and wisdom; and Field Marshal Bernard Caboga, who had an exceptional career in the Austrian military in the 19th century and who helped his city as often as he could. Starting with Master Marojica, the villa’s owners were members of the Kaboga family. Among them were those who commissioned building works on the villa in the 18th and 19th centuries. The most important intervention during the second building stage was the construction of a new staircase. The format and the ceiling of the central salon (saloËa) on the ground floor were altered and it became the antechamber of the new staircase, while the reconstruction of the interior introduced the prominent stylistic characteristics of Baroque and Classicism. Another prominent architectural feature is reflected in the organization of the interior and exterior; the ground floor was connected with the garden, and the first floor was opened out to the landscape. In the 18th century the grand hall was painted light blue and decorated. Several layers of paint were also discovered in the four side rooms on the first floor, bearing witness to the continuous habitation and decorative tastes. In the second half of the 19th century, the BuniÊ-Kaboga and the neighbouring villa Stay became the property of one owner. Their gardens were then connected with little promenades. During the construction of the Adriatic Tourist Highway in the 60s of last century the villa’s front garden and orsan were significantly shortened. The expansion of the road and the coastal filling severed the villa’s connection with the Ombla, the true reason why the villa was built there in the first place. The last descendant of the Caboga family, Ivo Felner, who had a PhD in chemistry, cherishes fond memories of Dubrovnik and his summer villa. It took him three years, exceptional perseverance and vision, a high quality team of workers, and a substantial donation from the Batahovina Foundation to completely restore the villa, the Chapel of St. Bernard and the gardens. He gave them a new lease of life and then signed a deed by which he handed it over to the City of Dubrovnik and the Republic of Croatia for management on the condition that the entire complex was used as a staple venue for cultural events in Dubrovnik. The restoration project, worth nearly 3 million euro, was based on research undertaken by art historian Dr. Nada GrujiÊ, along with the expert

help of the Croatian Conservation Institute and the Architecture and Design Studio Vetma. The newly restored summer villa is home to the offices of the Croatian Conservation Institute; there is a memorial room of the Caboga family which will serve the purpose of public and cultural events. The entire complex including Villa BuniÊ-Kaboga and Stay’s summer villa now serves the community. Kaboga’s summer villa, with the chapel and gardens, promenades and the terrace, is awash with renewed splendour and discrete luxury which fills up a space much bigger than the one within its borders. After many decades, this fully restored countryside complex offers the potential for various cultural activities, musical events, wedding receptions, workshops and meetings. Beaming with creative energy, it is a place where conservers, musicians, artists, professors and students, those who cherish art and Dubrovnik heritage, can meet and exchange thoughts and views; a place which serves as a role model for the future reconstruction of Dubrovnik’s other summer villas. You can go on describing the sea up to a point; after that point, you need to take a plunge. There are few of us who can selflessly give and benefit their community; who can inspire unity which is no longer just a subjective idea but an inspirational truth. Such deeds lead to the freedom of a much more sophisticated perfection and open a space and perspective of limitless progress for all those who are able to appreciate the power of the good they carry within themselves. In the kingdom of material wealth, people are jealously proud of their property and title deeds. In such a kingdom, one resides in the universe of history, surrounded by perpetual memories which propel them onto the pilgrimage of their development. There are also individuals who reside in the kingdom of their intimate achievements, those who know how to make a step forward into the element of intangible values. Mr. Ivo Felner is one of them. Q

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KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA INLAND CROATIA ■

Iako su vremena raskoπnog æivota u toplicama davna proπlost, o kojima svjedoËe brojni spomenici arhitekture tog doba i perivoji i parkovi koji svojom dugovjeËnoπÊu krijepe duπu, VijeÊe Europe pokrenulo je 2010. godine inicijativu Udruæenje europskih povijesnih termalnih gradova (EHTTA) radi oËuvanja, povezivanja i revalorizacije povijesnih europskih termalnih toplica. Hrvatsku u tom Udruæenju predstavljaju Daruvarske toplice iz Daruvara, koje sjedinjuju proπlost i sadaπnjost ljeËiliπnog turizma. Although life in spas is no longer the lavish never-ending holiday it once was as testiﬁed by numerous monuments of architecture built at the time, and promenades, gardens and parks which are still here to invigorate both mind and soul, in 2010 the Council of Europe started the European Historic Thermal Towns Association (EHTTA) initiative aimed at protecting, connecting and revalorising historical thermal towns in Europe. Croatia’s representative in the Association is Daruvarske Toplice in Daruvar, a historical thermal spa where health tourism is growing by the day. Vila Arcadia, Daruvarske toplice

Piše/By Anika Rešetar Drvar Fotograﬁje/Photos Saša PjaniÊ

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Daruvarske toplice

Blatno kupaliπte/ Mud baths, Daruvarske toplice

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drugoj polovici 19.stoljeÊa imuÊni su aristokrati i buræuji odmor, zdravlje i zabavu traæili u termalnim toplicama diljem Europe. Bolesti kostiju i zglobova, koæni problemi i neplodnost, stres i rastrojenost æivaca i odmor od svakodnevice traæili su se i lijeËili u termalnim toplicama Bath u Engleskoj, Spa u Belgiji, nadaleko poznatim Ëeπkim toplicama Karlovy Vary, Mariánske Lázne, Frantiskovy Lázne, njemaËkim Baden-Baden i Wiesbaden i u hrvatskim termama u Daruvaru, Lipiku i Topuskom. Stanje je svuda bilo gotovo jednako: raskoπno ureπene kupaliπne zgrada s iskiÊenim bazenima, grandiozni hoteli debelih sagova i neËujne posluge, promenade za susrete, traË partije i koncerte, perivoji za πetnje i razne igre, kasina kao zabava za dokone i preteËa avanturistiËkog sporta, koncertni paviljoni sred kultiviranih nasada, raskoπne kavane bogatog izbora slastica i gostionice s klasiËnom graanskom kuhinjom i pokojim Ëudotvornim i ljekovitim jelom ili sastojkom. Tijekom svog boravka u belgijskom ljeËiliπtu Spa 1781. car je Josip II. za to mjesto rekao da je Café of Europe. A ne Ëudi što je i naziv belgijskog mjesta poslije postao æanrovska odrednica te vrste ljeËiliπnog turizma. NajËeπÊi gosti toplica tad su bili plemiÊi koji bi putovali s obitelji, rodbinom, dragim prijateljima i pokojim gostom zaduæenim za razonodu, te slugama, guvernantama i kuÊnim uËiteljima. U toplicama se tad odvijao buran druπtveni æivot kao πto je to primjerice danas ljeti duæ jadranske obale. Iako je ljetni morski turizam potisnuo ladanjski oblik umjerenog æivota u toplicama, toplice u posljednje vrijeme sve viπe postaju en vogue. Toplice danas prvi put najËeπÊe posjeÊuju ljudi koji su tamo upuÊeni na rehabilitaciju nakon zdravstvenih problema, ali velik se postotak tih posjetitelja dragovoljno vraÊa kao redoviti gosti kojima toplice jednostavno gode. Iako su vremena raskoπnog æivota u toplicama davna proπlost, o kojima svjedoËe brojni spomenici arhitekture tog doba i perivoji i parkovi koji svojom dugovjeËnoπÊu krijepe duπu, VijeÊe Europe pokrenulo je 2010. godine inicijativu Udruæenje europskih povijesnih termalnih gradova (EHTTA) radi oËuvanja, povezivanja i revalorizacije povijesnih europskih termalnih toplica. Hrvatsku u tom Udruæenju predstavljaju Daruvarske toplice iz Daruvara, koje sjedinjuju proπlost i sadaπnjost ljeËiliπnog turizma. Vertebralni sindromi, upalne reumatske bolesti, degenerativne bolesti kraljeænice i zglobova, postoperativna, neuroloπka i ginekoloπka rehabilitacija, rekreacija, novi tretmani mrπavljenja i wellness nadnaslovi su danaπnje suvremene ponude u Daruvarskim toplicama, a osnovni su prirodno ljekoviti faktori termalna voda i mineralno blato- fango.(www.daruvarske-toplice.hr)

Kao i u ostalim toplicama Udruæenja europskih povijesnih termalnih gradova, i Daruvarske su toplice nastale u doba Rimskog Carstva. Prve su kaptaæe izvora ljekovite vode ureene 288.g.pr.Krista, a temperatura im je u prosjeku 46,7 stupnjeva Celzijusa. Tadaπnji je naziv toplica Aquae Balissae (jaka vrela), a pozitivno i ljekovito djelovanje termalne vode, Rimljani su pripisivali moÊi svojih boæanstava, Silvanu, Dijani i Solu. Pisani dokumenti otkrivaju da su i Rimljani veÊ rabili vruÊe, tople i hladne kupke, te posebne prostorije za znojenje i masaæu. Postojali su i veÊi zajedniËki bazeni koje su koristili uglavnom vojnici za odmor i oporavak. Tijekom turskih osvajanja toplice su funkcionirale kao osmanlijska ilidæa, a znaËajan razvoj zbiva se dolaskom grofa Antuna JankoviÊa 1756., kojemu plemstvo dodjeljuje carica Marija Terezija. On je potaknuo kaptaæe izvora, gradnju novih bazena, a zatim i zgrada. Grof Antun JankoviÊ (1729. − 1789.) kupio je 1760. godine vlastelinstva Podborje, SiraË i Pakrac. BuduÊi da je sastavni dio obiteljskoga grba obitelji JankoviÊ ædral, grof mijenja hrvatski naziv

Trg kralja Tomislava/ King Tomislav Square, Daruvar

Gradske vedute/ Cityscapes

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Podborje u Ædralov grad, odnosno maarski Daruvar, i svom imenu dodaje pridjevak de Daruvar. Grof Antun JankoviÊ bio je obrazovan i ugledan aristokrat, obnaπao je duænost velikog æupana Poæeπke æupanije, bio je predsjednik kraljevskog Stola sedmorice u Budimu i tajni savjetnik (Geheimrat) cara Josipa II. Jedan od najljepπih baroknih dvoraca Monarhije graen je od 1771. do 1777.godine u Daruvaru po njegovom nalogu. BuduÊi da je graen u obliku slova U, dvorac ima tri krila, a u prizemlju i na prvom katu smjeπteno je πezdeset soba. Glavni se salon, kao i nekada, danas rabi za koncerte i okruæen je nizom sveËanih reprezentativnih salona. Ispred juænog ulaza u dvorac grofa Antuna JankoviÊa dva su primjerka listopadnog drveta Ginko biloba - æenski i muπki primjerak porijeklom iz zapadne Kine. Nalaze se u dvorskom perivoju koji je nastajao usporedno s gradnjom dvorca, a zavrπen je 1780. godine. To je najstarija vrsta drveÊa na Zemlji, koja postoji viπe od dvjesto milijuna godina. Drvo u Daruvaru najveÊe je i nastarije u Hrvatskoj, a drugo najstarije u Europi. Dvorac Daruvaru i danas podaruje identitet i snagu kontinuiteta. Od 1868. do 1870. dvorac je dao obnoviti grof Julije JankoviÊ, mijenjajuÊi bitno njegov izvorni izgled. Na glavnom ulazu dodana je altana sa stupovima te su u unutraπnjosti pregraene neke prostorije. Obnovu je vodio beËki arhitekt König, unutraπnje ureenje Julije Manstein, takoer iz BeËa. Interijeri dvorca s kraja 19. stoljeÊa saËuvani su na starim fotografijama. Julije JankoviÊ (1820. − 1904.) unuk je grofa Antuna JankoviÊa i istaknuo se uspjeπnim politiËkim djelovanjem, ali joπ viπe osnivanjem brojnih dobrotvornih zaklada i donacijama za Narodni muzej, Narodno kazaliπte, za osnivanje JAZU, a osnovao je i zaklade za πkolovanje mladiÊa na Kraljevskom πumarskom uËiliπtu u Kriæevcima. Zbog dugova grofovi su 1871./72. prodali sva svoja imanja, a dvorac su 1878. prodali Magdaleni Lechner, a ona Aloisu i Antonu Tüköryju. Oni 1905.godine vlastelinstvo i dvorac prodaju Hrvatskoj poljodjelskoj banci, a 1920. kupila ga je opÊina Daruvar i u njemu smjestila πkolu. Obitelj se JankoviÊ nakon prodaje dvorca preselila u Austriju u Kreuzhoff na Achenskom jezeru. Ondje je 1904.godine preminuo grof Julije JankoviÊ kao posljednji muπki potomak obitelji. Iako je grof Julije JankoviÊ od silnog dobrotvorstva doæivio osobni bankrot, on i dalje æivi u jednom od najljepπih parkovnih perivoja Hrvatske - u Julijevom parku. Pomno odabrano i s ljubavlju i znanjem njegovano staro drveÊe jedno je od najdraæih mjesta veÊine gostiju Daruvarskih toplica. Snaga i starost, visina i postojanost ispune Ëovjeka kad se nae meu stablima starima i viπe od dvije stotine godina. VeÊina 92

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posjetitelja uæiva najviπe u restoranu Terasa, gdje uz piÊe ili jelo odmaraju duπu zagledani u dugovjeËno drveÊe. Perivoji su uz dvorce nekoÊ bili najveÊi statusni simbol plemstva, ureivali su ih poznati i ugledni parkovni kreatori tog doba tako da smire, ali povremeno lagano uznemire neoËekivanim obratom vizure. Park i danas odiπe bezvremenskim skladom i elegancijom. Prvo je drveÊe posadio joπ grof Antun JankoviÊ oko 1762.godine, a perivoj je rastao paralelno s gradnjom ljeËiliπnih kupki, osobito za vrijeme Antunovih nasljednika grofova Izidora i Julija JankoviÊa. Danas se u njemu nalazi πezdeset vrsta bilja. U perivoju nalazimo barokne cvjetne lijehe pravilnih oblika, koje svjedoËe o maru ljudske ruke i Ëovjekove teænje da prirodom ovlada i uresi je po svojoj maπti, i elemente engleskoga pejzaænog stila u kojemu se Ëovjekova intervencija sastoji u tome da pusti prirodu da bolje prodiπe i postane poput bujnoga æenskog poprsja koje hrani mirom i staloæenoπÊu. To istiËe i ljepota bronËane puti AugustinËiÊeve KupaËice iz 1927.godine. LjeËiliπni perivoj Julijev park zaπtiÊen je i u njemu se Ëovjek doista osjeÊa uronjen u neko proπlo vrijeme, osobito kad se nae okruæen i zgradama podignutim u vrijeme prvih vlasnika, kao πto je kupaliπna zgrada zvana Antunova kupka, koju je grof dao podiÊi 1762. godine, a sagradili su je makedonski majstori. U njoj se prvotno kupao obiËan puk, a ispred zgrade izvor je tople ljekovite vode (43° C) i sluæi za piÊe. U perivoju su joπ Ivanova i Marijina kupka, a zanimljivoπÊu se istiËu ©vicarska vila sagraena 1860. godine kao ljetnikovac, vila Arcadia podignuta 1870. godine, a kao simbol toplica nametnula se zgrada centralnoga blatnog kupaliπta sagraena u maurskom stllu. Bazen je bio oploËen fajansom, a uz rub su bile kamene klupe za sjedeÊe kupke. Na sredini je bazena umjetna stijena od kamenih gromada, s hladnim vodenim mlazom za osvjeæenje. Osim po ljekovitoj vodi, Daruvar je najpoznatiji po pivu i vinu. Naselivπi daruvarsko podruËje Ëeπkim doseljenicima, grof JankoviÊ iskoristio je njihovo poznato graditeljsko iskustvo u gradnji pivovare i tradicionalno umijeÊe u proizvodnji piva. Pivovara Daruvar ima tradiciju dugu 170 godina i najstarija je hrvatska pivovara, koja od osnivanja 1840. godine djeluje na istome mjestu. Ima i respektabilan brend − StaroËeπko pivo, koje imenom i stilom govori o tradiciji Ëeπkog pivarstva. Na temelju tradicije u proizvodnji piva i prirodno meke vode, daruvarsko pivo od poËetka je sliËno Ëeπkom pivu. Osim proizvodnog asortimana, Pivovara Daruvar izletnicima nudi organizirani obilazak pivovare uz vodstvo struËne osobe, kao i degustaciju StaroËeπkog piva. (www.starocesko.com) U Daruvaru æivi i najviše

OPG KovaËeviÊ/ The KovaËeviÊ family farm and B&B

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Vinski salon, dvorac JankoviÊ/ The JankoviÊ castle wine salon

Julijin park/Julia’s Park

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Daruvarske toplice

Vinski salon, dvorac JankoviĂ&#x160;/

Dani piva, Daruvarska pivovara/

The JankoviĂ&#x160; castle wine salon

Beer Days at the Daruvar Brewery

Daruvarska vinska cesta/ The Daruvar wine road

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»eha u Hrvatskoj, u gradu je i sjediπte »eske besedé, a Ëeπki se utjecaj njeguje i u lokalnoj kuhinji. Najpoznatiji su specijaliteti knedli s kiselim kupusom, krpice sa svjeæim kupusom, dizani knedli na pari, salenjaci i bramborak. Za vinopije daruvarski se kraj moæe preporuËiti kao mjesto ponude vrlo finih vina i sjajnog omjera kvalitete i cijene. Vrijedi krenuti Daruvarskom vinskom cestom i pomno je i polako istraæivati (www.vinskeceste-bbz.hr). Cesta povezuje sedam punktova koji spajaju najudaljenije dijelove grada, a tijekom πetnje uæiva se u pogledu na vinograde uz Ëaπu vina i u toplini dobrodoπlice. »ak je i prvi Vinski salon osnovan u Daruvaru 2012.godine, a u njemu se, uz razna vina, kuπaju i sirevi lokalno proizvedeni od kravljega i kozjeg mlijeka. U proizvodnji sireva osobito se istiËu sirana Biogal i OPG Janeπ, a zainteresirani posjetitelji mogu ih obiÊi uz prethodnu najavu. Pravo ladanje moæe se iskusiti na etno imanju OPG KovaËeviÊ, na kojem veÊ u petoj generaciji uzgajaju vinovu lozu i prave svoja vina. Od bijelih vina KovaËeviÊevi nude graπevinu, chardonnay i mirisavi traminac, a od

crnih cabernet sauvignon i pinot crni. U blizini njihova vinograda tradicionalna je kuÊa tipiËna za daruvarski kraj, graena punom ciglom, a ukraπena je brojnim etno eksponatima. U dvokrevetnom apartmanu i dvokrevetnoj sobi moæe se otpoËinuti kao u stara vremena, uz starinski namjeπtaj i ruËno vezenu posteljinu i tu kao da se utjelovljuje moto TuristiËke zajednice grada − Daruvar voli æivot. Kratak je to i jednostavan poziv gostima da dou na obnovu zdravlja, okrepu duπe i dobru zabavu. Q

n the latter part of the 19th century, well-todo aristocrats and bourgeoisie patronised thermal spas all over Europe in pursuit of rest, wellbeing and entertainment. Bath in the UK, Spa in Belgium, the famous Czech spas in Karlovy Vary, Mariánske Lázne, Frantiskovy Lázne, and Baden-Baden and Wiesbaden in Germany, as well as the Croatian spas in Daruvar, Lipik and Topusko, all promised cure for bone and joint diseases, skin problems and infertility, relief from stress, nervous disorders and rest from the rat race of everyday life. The

scene in all those places was almost identical: splendid bathing buildings with ornate swimming pools, grand hotels with thick carpets and silent and discreet service, promenades where people could meet, chat, gossip and frequent concerts, parks for leisurely walks or games, casinos where the rich could pass their time, predecessors of adventure sports, pavilion-like buildings in manicured public gardens where concerts were held, lavish Viennese-style cafés whose patrons were spoiled for choice of confectioneries and restaurants serving typically local food, amongst which there was at least one particularly healthy dish or a medicinal ingredient with the promise of a miraculous cure. While staying in Spa in Belgium in 1781, Emperor Joseph II described the place as the Café of Europe. It is, thus, not surprising that the name of the Belgian resort was later adopted as the name for all such places and the descriptive term for a particular type of tourism. A typical spa patron was a member of nobility who travelled with relatives, dear friends and an occasional guest in charge of entertainment,

Daruvarsko vinogorje/ The Daruvar wine-growing region CROATIA AIRLINES

Janica KosteliÊ, Daruvarske toplice

Dvorac JankoviÊ/ The JankoviÊ castle

Daruvarska pivovara/ The Daruvar Brewery

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servants, nannies and teachers for their children. Spas were centres of a very vibrant social life, reminiscent of the summer scenes that can presently be witnessed along the Adriatic Coast. Although seaside tourism has replaced the more sedate lifestyle of countryside spas, thermal baths have been coming back into fashion as of recently. Today, the majority of spa-goers are people recovering from health problems, but a large percentage of them return as regulars because they simply like a spa holiday! Although life in spas is no longer the lavish never-ending holiday it once was as testified by numerous monuments of architecture built at the time, and promenades, gardens and parks which are still here to invigorate both mind and soul, in 2010 the Council of Europe started the European Historic Thermal Towns Association (EHTTA) initiative aimed at protecting, connecting and revalorising historical thermal towns in Europe. Croatia’s representative in the Association is Daruvarske Toplice in Daruvar, a historical thermal spa where health tourism is growing by the day. Vertebral syndromes, inflammatory rheumatic diseases, degenerative spine and joint diseases, postoperative neurological and gynaecological rehabilitation, recreation, new weight loss treatments and wellness − these are the buzzwords of the current offer at Daruvarske Toplice, whose main medicinal ingredients from nature are thermal water and mineral mud or fango. (www.daruvarske-toplice.hr) Daruvarske Toplice shares its early history with many other EHTTA members. It was first established during the Roman Empire. The sources of thermal water were first fitted out as early as 288 B.C. The average water temperature at source was 46.7 degrees Centigrade. The Romans built a settlement around the thermal water source and called it Aquae Balissae (strong sources). They attributed the positive and healing properties of thermal water to the powers of their gods Silvanus, Diana and Sol. Written documents reveal that Romans were aware of the benefits of hot and cold baths, and that they had special sweating and massage rooms. There were larger common pools mostly used by soldiers who came to rest and recuperate in spas. During the Turkish onslaught, the spa functioned as an Ottoman ilidæa (warm thermal springs), with both the settlement and the spa experiencing a significant leap forward after 1756, the year of the arrival of Count Antun JankoviÊ, who had received his noble title from the Empress Maria Theresa. The Count encouraged the building of thermal water catchments, the construction of new pools and buildings. In 1760, Count Antun JankoviÊ (1729-1789) bought estates in Podborje, SiraË and Pakrac. Given that the

crest of the JankoviÊ family featured a crane, the Count changed the Croatian name of Podborje into Ædralov grad (Crane Town) or Daruvar in Hungarian, and added the new designation of de Daruvar to his family name. Count Antun JankoviÊ was a well-educated and prominent aristocrat; he held office as the Great Prefect of the County of Poæega; he was president of the King’s chair of Seven in Buda and secret advisor (Geheimrat) to Emperor Joseph II. He commissioned one of the most beautiful baroque manors in the whole Monarchy in Daruvar, which was then constructed between 1771 and 1777. Built in the shape of the U letter, the manor had three wings, and a combined count of sixty rooms on the ground and first floors. The main salon, which has always been used as a concert room, is skirted by a string of smaller, elegant representative salons. Originating from western China, two deciduous Gingko Biloba trees, a male and female specimen, can be seen in front of the southern entrance to Count Antun JankoviÊ’s manor. They are part of the leafy promenade which was planted at the same time that the manor was constructed with its design finished in 1780. Having been around for over 200 million years, gingko trees are the oldest in the world. The one in Daruvar is the tallest and oldest tree in Croatia, and the second oldest in Europe. The manor in Daruvar is still what gives the whole region its identity, testifying to the continuity of human habitation. From 1868 to 1870, the manor underwent reconstruction under Count Julije JankoviÊ, who decided to change its original appearance. A portico with columns was added to the main entrance, and some of the rooms were partitioned off. The architect in charge of the reconstruction was master König from Vienna, while its interior design was entrusted to Julije Manstein, also from Vienna. The interior as it was in the late 19th century is depicted in old photos. Julije JankoviÊ (1820-1904), a grandson of Count Antun JankoviÊ, made a name for himself as a successful political activist, and even more so as a founder of many charitable foundations and a donor to the National Museum, National Theatre and a contributor to the foundation of the Yugoslav Academy of Sciences and Arts. He set up a charitable foundation for the education of boys at the Royal Forestry School in Kriæevci. Due to having generated large debts, the counts sold all of their properties in 1871 and 1872, and so the manor was sold in 1878 to Magdalena Lechner, who subsequently sold it to Alois and Anton Tüköry. In 1905, they sold the manor to the Croatian Agricultural Bank and in 1920 it was purchased by the municipality of Daruvar and

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Fontana na Trgu kralja Tomislava/ Fountain at King Tomislav Square

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turned into a school. Having sold the manor, the JankoviÊ family moved to Kreuzhoff by Achen Lake in Austria. That was where Count Julije JankoviÊ died in 1904 as the family’s last male heir. Although Count Julije JankoviÊ had to declare personal bankruptcy as a result of his philanthropy, he continues to live in one of the most beautiful parks in Croatia − Julije’s park. Carefully selected and nurtured with tender loving care, the old trees in the park are still the darlings of most guests of Daruvarske Toplice. Their power and age, their height and steadiness strike the spa’s guests with awe − some of the trees are over two hundred years old. What most visitors like to do is spend time at Terasa restaurant, resting their eyes on the old trees while enjoying mouth-watering refreshments. Besides manors, parks also used to be status symbols of the one-time nobility. They were designed and cultivated by famous and widely acclaimed park designers, who channelled all their creative energies into embellishing the landscape with unexpected vistas. To this very day, the park in Daruvarske Toplice exudes immortal harmony and elegance. The first trees were planted around 1762 by Count Antun JankoviÊ himself with the rest of the park continuing to grow with the construction of thermal baths, especially during the time of Antun’s successors, Counts Izidor and Julije JankoviÊ. At present, the park boasts 60 plant species. The baroque, regularly shaped flower beds testify to human diligence and desire to conquer nature and shape it according to human imagination; it also features so-called English garden elements, in which human intervention boils down to letting nature breath better allowing it to become very much like a generous bosom which nurtures with peace and composure. This is further highlighted by the beauty of the bronze complexion of AugustinËiÊ’s Bather sculpture from 1927. Julije’s Park is protected, and once there, surrounded by the buildings erected at the time of its first owners, including the spa building known as Antun’s Bath which the Count had erected in 1762 by Macedonian masons, one feels truly immersed in the past. At first, common people bathed there and drunk mineral water from the source in front (43°C). The park also features Ivan and Marija’s baths, as well as the intriguing Swiss Villa, built in 1860 as a summer house, and Villa Arcadia built in 1870. The spa symbol is the central mud bath building, constructed in the Moorish style. The swimming pool once displayed faience tiles, and was flanked with stone banks for those who wanted to bathe in a seated position. In the centre of the pool, there was an artificial rockery made of huge stones with spurting cold water for refreshment.

Apart from mineral water, Daruvar’s other claims to fame are beer and wine. Having settled Czech émigrés in the region surrounding Daruvar, Count JankoviÊ used their brewery building experience and traditional beer brewing skills to start beer production. With a tradition spanning 170 years, Daruvar’s is the oldest Croatian brewery which has been brewing beer in the same place ever since its foundation in 1840. And it also owns a very respectable brand − StaroËeπko beer, whose name and style invoke the Czech beer brewing tradition. Owing to tradition and very soft water, the beer made in Daruvar reminds much of the Czech variety. The Daruvar Brewery welcomes visitors with the full range of their products on offer, as well as a guided tour of the brewery and free tastings of StaroËeπko beer (www.starocesko.com). Daruvar has the largest Czech population in Croatia. It is the seat of »eska beseda, with the Czech influences in the local cuisine being very prominent. The best known specialties are dumplings with sauerkraut, pasta flakes with cabbage, steamed dumplings, lard dough cookies and potato pancakes. Wine lovers will be interested to know that the Daruvar region is the home of some very good and reasonably priced wines. Taking and exploring the Daruvar wine road connecting seven posts in seven different parts of town will be worth one’s attention and time (www. vinskeceste-bbz.hr). During a stroll, one can savour the view of vineyards while sipping good wine and enjoying a warm welcome. The first wine salon in Daruvar was opened in 2012. Besides wine, it offers tastings of locally produced cow and goat cheeses. The most prominent cheese makers, Biogal and the OPG Janeπ, offer prearranged tours of their production facilities. The ambiance of countryside living can be experienced at the KovaËeviÊ family’s estate where the fifth generation has been involved in viticulture and wine making. The KovaËeviÊ’s offer includes white wines, Graπevina, Chardonnay and flagrant Traminer, and reds, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. Close to their vineyard is a traditional house typical of the Daruvar region, built of thick brick and exhibiting numerous ethno decorations. Accommodation in the soothing peace and quiet of yesteryear is available in a two-bedroom apartment and a double room, with the rooms furnished with old furniture and hand-embroidered bed linen seeming to epitomise the motto of the Daruvar Tourist Board − Daruvar loves life. This is but a short and simple invitation to future guests to come and restore their health, reinvigorate their souls and have fun in the process. Q

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■ MERIDIJANI MERIDIANS

Plaæa, Sanur/Sanur Beach

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Krajolik oko Ubuda s pogledom na vulkan Gunung Agung/ The Ubud landscape with a view of Gunung Agung volcano

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Bali je najvaænije indonezijsko turistiËko odrediπte, otkriveno joπ tridesetih godina proπloga stoljeÊa. PriËa o Baliju mogla bi se saæeti ovako: vulkani su mjesto bogova, plodna riæina polja zemlja ljudi, a ocean obitavaliπte demona i zlih duhova. Dvojite li isplati li se potezati na drugi kraj svijeta ili je Bali samo jedan potroπeni, turistiËki must see stereotip, sa sigurnoπÊu vam mogu reÊi: koliko god vremena odluËili provesti na Baliju, bit Êe vam premalo. Bali is the most important Indonesian tourist destination, which was discovered in the 1930’s. The story about Bali could be summarized as follows: its volcanoes are places of gods, its fertile rice ﬁelds are home to its people and the ocean, the residence of demons and evil spirits. If you are wondering whether it is worth travelling to the other end of the world to experience all that or if Bali is just another old and worn-out must-see tourist stereotype, there is one thing I can tell you with certainty: however long you decide to stay in Bali, it will simply not be enough. Teks i fotograﬁje/Text and photos Saša PjaniÊ

Riæina polja, Subak sustav navodnjavanja/ Rice ﬁelds, Subak irrigation system

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alo Êe se tko, poe li na Bali, pohvaliti da putuje u Indoneziju. To je nesumnjivo najpoznatiji od pribliæno 17.000 otoka najveÊe otoËne dræave na svijetu. Najmanja od njezine 34 administrativne provincije i jedinstven otok po autentiËnoj kulturi æivljenja, Bali je najvaænije indonezijsko turistiËko odrediπte, otkriveno joπ tridesetih godina proπloga stoljeÊa. PriËa o Baliju mogla bi se saæeti ovako: vulkani su mjesto bogova, plodna riæina polja zemlja ljudi, a ocean obitavaliπte demona i zlih duhova. Turizam je moæda donekle izmijenio redoslijed, no jedinstveno naËelo Balineæana, utemeljeno na naËelu Tri Hita Karana koje ljude, bogove i prirodu sjedinjuje u harmoniju supostojanja, svoj spektakularni odraz zrcali u edenskoj vizuri, samopouzdano se noseÊi s izazovima suvremenosti. Danas vjerojatno da i nema celebrityja koji se ne smijeπi s fotografija iz lobbyja luksuznih hotela, a poznati svjetski bestseller i neπto poslije film Jedi, moli, voli na marketinπkom su planu uËinili svoje. Bali slovi kao mjesto osobite kulturne tradicije, umjetnosti, rukotvorstva, nadaleko poznat po Kecak i Legong plesovima uz pratnju gamelan orkestra. To je i otok bajkovitih pjeπËanih plaæa, rajskih zatona, veliËanstvenih zalazaka sunca, surfera, honeymoonera, profinjene estetike suvremenog oblikovanja i svjetskih hotelskih brandova. Dvojite li isplati li se potezati na drugi

kraj svijeta ili je Bali samo jedan potroπeni, turistiËki must see stereotip, sa sigurnoπÊu vam mogu reÊi: koliko god vremena odluËili provesti na Baliju, bit Êe vam premalo. SlijeÊuÊi u meunarodnu zraËnu luku Ngurah Rai, jednim pogledom kroz avionski prozor moæe se obuhvatiti ono Ëemu bi kolokvijalno, vjerojatno najbolje, odgovarao naziv Perjanica turistiËke ponude Balija. PjeπËane plaæe, hramovi na vapnenaËkim klifovima o koje se razbija i pjeni tirkizni ocean, poznata surﬁng mjesta, dokovi za kruzere, ekskluzivni golfski tereni i luksuzni villas & spa resorti s najljepπim sunset terasama. Sve to nalazi se tek dvadesetak minuta voænje u krugu oko zraËne luke, pa ako ste sluËajno australski vikendaπ i k tome joπ strastveni zaljubljenik u daskanje, moæete veÊ s aerodromskog praga, u aloha koπulji, shortsu i s daskom pod rukom namirisati dobre valove. A to se moæe cijele godine, jer temperature, s obzirom na blizinu ekvatora, uvijek se vrte oko tridesetke. No nepoπteno bi bilo taj zbijeni prostor izmeu obalnih strmaca poluotoka Bukit i rubova urbanog aglomerata Sanura, Denpasara i Kute samo tako proglasiti dosadnim, turistiËkim getom. Nae se tu zadovoljstva za svakoga, od pikantnih uliËnih satay raænjiÊa i jeftinih, treπtavih barova do πik restorana i penthouse bazena. A Ëesto baπ i nije lako opredijeliti se za sportski æivot na valovima ili ludi noÊni provod po diskoklubovima. No zbog navike da mnogi zaglave tek malo dalje od piste, treba reÊi da Bali nudi mnogo viπe svakome tko je spreman malo πvrljati po njemu. A otok zapravo i nije velik, barem kada je posrijedi njegova povrπina. U mediteranskim razmjerima svrstao bi se negdje izmeu Krete i Majorce. Ali po naseljenosti, s gotovo Ëetiri milijuna stanovnika u rangu je Sicilije ili, nama omiljene usporedbe, Hrvatske. Kao i veÊi dio Malajskog arhipelaga, Bali se nalazi u jednome od vulkanski najaktivnijih podruËja na Zemlji. Na sjeveru otoka dvije su ugasle kaldere s kraterskim jezerima Batur, Buyan, Beratan i Tamblingan i joπ nekoliko aktivnih stratovulkana oko njih. Kroz kratere prolaze glavni putovi koji povezuju prenaseljeni jug i pomalo uspavani sjever otoka. NajveÊi vulkan Balija jest tri tisuÊe metara visok stoæac Gunung Agunga, koji se uzdiæe istoËno od jezerskih kaldera. Balineæanski hindusi vjeruju da kroz njega prolazi srediπnja os svemira. Na padinama vulkanskog stoπca nalazi se Pura Besakih, najveÊi i najsvetiji hram na Baliju. Podignuto joπ davno prije pojave hinduizma u Indoneziji, svetiπte podsjeÊa na uzajamnu vezu drevnih otoËana i hirovite moÊi prirode. Fascinantan je podatak da je zbog posljednje erupcije 1963., gutajuÊi sve pred sobom, æitka lava, na samo nekoliko metara, zaobiπla ovo

sveto mjesto, ostavljajuÊi hram gotovo nedirnutim. Od podnoæja hrama polazi jedan od dva trekerska uspona na vulkanski vrh. Spuπtanje prema moru, po otvrdnuloj, crnoj lavi obrasloj πumama i visokom travom, podsjeÊa pomalo na razmatanje klupka vremena, od najstarije geoloπke proπlosti do najrecentijeg turistiËkog developmenta. Balineæani su potomci austronezijskih doseljenika iz juæne Kine i jugoistoËne Azije, koji prije 4000 godina naseljavaju otok. Vjerovanja i obiËaje oblikovali su priroda i nedokuËivi svijet duhova, a tek poslije upotpunilo uËenje o dharmi koje iz Indije na Bali, stoljeÊima postupno, stiæe preko Jave. Veze Balija i susjedne Jave mnogo su dublje od nekoliko kilometara plitkog mora koje je prije desetak tisuÊa godina potopilo kontinentalni πelf i razdvojilo ta dva otoka. Ono πto danas, kroz glazbu, ples i kazaliπte najprije prepoznajemo kao autentiËnost Balija, svoje korijene vuËe s Jave. Nekoliko javanskih dinastija, s promjenjivom je sreÊom, nastojalo nametnuti svoj utjecaj starosjedilaËkom otoËnom stanovniπtvu. Sredinom 14. stoljeÊa monarsi i diplomati moÊnog carstva Majapahit, uz veÊ prethodno uspostavljane tazbinske veze balineæanskih i javanskih vladarskih kuÊa, uspijevaju Bali podloæiti svom trajnom utjecaju. Namjesniπtvo novog kralja Dewe Agunga u prijestolnici Gelget, nedaleko od grada Semarapura, sljedeÊih Êe nekoliko stoljeÊa jamËiti pokornost ostalih otoËkih kraljevstava. No kad jednom smrkne, drugom svane, pa je tako nekoÊ moÊno carstvo indonezijskog arhipelaga, u postupnom uzmicanju pred πirenjem sultanata, potkraj 15. stoljeÊa konaËno i prestalo postojati. Preostala javanska elita utoËiπte je pronaπla na Baliju, a sada potpuno samostalno kraljevstvo Gelget u 16. Êe stoljeÊu doæivjeti pravu renesansu. Batik, gamelan i lutkarsko kazaliπte sjenki, uz mnoštvo hramova koji niËu svuda po otoku, æivi su podsjetnici toga doba. Percepcija Balija kao rajskog vrta, zasluga je vrhunskog majstorstva pejzaæne arhitekture, a to je, opet prema tripartitnom shvaÊanju sklada, zajedniËko djelo i bogova i prirode i ljudi. Zbog plodnog vulkanskog tla, obilja topline i znatne koliËine padalina koje svoj maksimum doseæu s prvim mjesecima kalendarske godine, tropska ﬂora buja po Ëitavom otoku. Darove s neba i iz utrobe zemlje otoËani prihvaÊaju s ritualnom zahvalnoπÊu, a povlasticu slave kroz oËovjeËeni sustav ekoloπke odræivosti i jedinstvenu estetiku krajolika koju je kao svjetsku baπtinu prepoznao i UNESCO. Subak je naziv za drevni sustav kontrole navodnjavanja, koji se moæe naÊi samo na Baliju, a stoljeÊima je veÊ temelj poljodjelstvu i skladnom odnosu ljudi i njihova okoliπa. Slivno podruËje pojedinog subaka tvori ﬁna mreæa kanala, tunela i brana

koja πume, izvore, riæina polja i naselja povezuje u zatvoreni krug. U njegovom srediπtu nalazi se Pura tirta ili vodeni hram, iz kojega, raspodjelom vode po terasama, upravlja hramski sveÊenik. Sagraen prije viπe od tisuÊu godina, sustav je joπ u upotrebi. Raskoπ i ljepotu ruralnog Balija najizravnije se moæe doæivjeti u gradiÊu Ubudu i njegovoj okolici. Smjeπten tridesetak kilometara od obale, usred gustih πuma i riæinih polja, na plodnom vulkanskom tlu, Ubud je veÊ dulji niz godina središte alternativnog turizma. Drugim rijeËima, kome god dosadi plaæa i vreva noÊnoga provoda, dolazi upravo na ovo mjesto. I joπ neπto. U Ubud se zaljubljuje na prvu, a iz njega se ne odlazi baπ lako. Popis aktivnosti kojima se ovdje moæe ispuniti vrijeme poveÊi je, od joge do teËaja plesa i kuhanja, a razne izloæbe, umjetniËke kolonije, seminari i radionice Ëine ga kulturnom Mekom otoka. Uostalom, svijet je i upoznao Bali zahvaljujuÊi umjetnicima. Sve je poËelo 1927., nakon kaosa Velikog rata, kada njemaËki slikar Walter Spies, traæeÊi red i smisao na istoku, dolazi u Ubud. U njemu Êe ostati do tragiËne smrti, u spletu nesretnih okolnosti u poËetku japanske okupacije. Taj je umjetnik, uz Meksikanca Miguela Covarrubiasa i ameriËke antropologe Margaret Mead i Gregoryja Batesona, najËeπÊe isticana liËnost kada je rijeË o pribliæavanju Balija zapadnoj kulturnoj svijesti. Osim predanoga slikarskog rada, Spies je bio priznati erudit i kolekcionar znanja o razliËitim aspektima balineæanske kulture, umjetnosti, etnograﬁje i povijesti. Uzajamnom suradnjom i suæivotom s domaÊim umjetnicima, neizmjerno je utjecao na razvoj moderne balineæanske umjetnosti te osnovao Muzej Balija, kojemu je bio i kurator. UmjetniËka scena u Ubudu i duhovna klima razmjene i stvaralaπtva vrhunac proæivljava potkraj tridesetih kada je Bali veÊ postao omiljeno mjesto poznatih i slavnih. I tako je zvijezda roena, a put njezinoj slavi poploËen i utaban. Za nepuna tri desetljeÊa Bali Êe postati jedno od najglasovitijih turistiËkih odredišta, ovjenËano titulom tropskog raja u kojemu je sve u znaku ljepote i sklada s prirodom. Razni umjetniËki obrti, uza slikarstvo, vrlo su unosan oblik zarade za odredište koje godiπnje posjeti viπe od tri milijuna ljudi. ©ira okolica Ubuda prava je mala ruralna aglomeracija naselja koja se jedno za drugim niæu po zelenim padinama, ispresijecanim bistrim potocima i stazama za hodanje. Gdje zavrπava jedno, a poËinje drugo selo, najËeπÊe se moæe raspoznati tek po vrsti rukotvorina izloæenih ispred galerija i radionica. Rezbarije, drveni namjeπtaj, nakit, skulputure, maske. Jalan, jalan, kako bi se to veÊ reklo u Indoneziji ili samo hodaj niz ulicu i Ëut Êeπ kako vjetrena zvona polako

Nusa Lembongan, pjeπËana plaæa/sandy beach

Flora

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Kuta Beach, zalazak Sunca/ Sunset over Kuta Beach

Ruralni prizor/Rural view

Sanur, obredna ceremonija/ Sanur â&#x2C6;&#x2019; religious ceremony

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Kuta Beach, surfer/ Surfer on Kuta Beach

Campuhan Ridge, Ubud

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Stjenovita obala juænog Balija/ South Bali rocky coastline

Tradicionalni balineæanski ribarski Ëamci/ Traditional Balinese ﬁshermen’s boats

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prelaze u kvrcanje dlijeta o kamen. Ali nemojte veÊ nakon nekoliko ulica traæiti najbliæi warung radi slasnog zalogaja u palminom listu ili pitkog i jeftinog indonezijskog piva. Iskuπajte najprije svoje hikerske i bikerske moguÊnosti, a ako vam to baπ i ne ide, skitanje po okolici moæete nastaviti iznajmljenim skuterom ili bemom, simpatiËnim lokalnim, javnim prijevozom Ëija Êe vas voænja podsjetiti da su Balineæani strastveni ljubitelji borbi pijetlova. Obiite svakako Kraljevsku palaËu Peliatan u Ubudu i neπto dalje u Padangtegalu, hram Dalem Agung u ©umi majmuna. PjeπaËenje po Campuhan Ridgeu obvezno! Kroz visoku travu i zelene pristranke, obrasle palmama i tikovinom do u maπti zasijanih nasada riæe i kave. Ako vam nije dosta i mislite da moæe i bolje, znajte da moæe. Ovisi samo o tome pouzdajete li se u svoje tabane ili slijedi voænja. Svakako, savjet je da produæite dalje, do sela Tegalalang i poznatih riæinih terasa. U blizini je Pura tirta Empul, vodeni hram i mjesto hodoËaπÊa, koje neÊete zaobiÊi. Ima tu joπ svega; špilja, slapova, jezera, svjeæih brzica, hramova i opet riæinih polja. I, dakako, prekrasnih villas and spa i boutique hotela. Da, to su one fotograﬁje s inﬁnity edge bazenima usred praπuma, koje se redovito pojavljuju na internetskim stranicama top 20 najljepπih mjesta na svijetu. Jeste li znali da kopi luwak, najskuplja kava na svijetu, koja se præi od neprobavljenih zrna iz cibetkina izmeta, potjeËe iz Indonezije? Gutljaj vrele delicije, koja na zapadu doseæe cijenu i do 50 dolara po πalici, za prihvatljiv me iznos, u jednoj od ubudskih kavana, ponovno vratio u ne baπ davno vrijeme. Kao i Ëaj u Indiji, uzgoj kave u Indoneziji velikim je dijelom uspomena na kolonijalnu proπlost. PriËe kaæu da su prvi Europljani koji su s paluba karake ugledali rajski otok bili veÊ veoma prorijeena posada Magellanove ekspedicije. Nakon pogibije slavnog Portugalca koji je u sluæbi Karla ©panjolskog trebao oploviti svijet, jedini preostali jedrenjak veÊ se bio okrenuo prema Rtu dobre nade kada je sluËajno plovio uz Bali pa od tog susreta vjerojatno i nije ostalo mnogo viπe osim πturih natuknica u brodskom peljaru. Prvi doπljaci sa Starog Kontinenta, koji su se iskrcali na otok, bili su ponovno sunarodnjaci slavnog admirala. Portugalski guverner Malaje 1585. πalje trgovaËku misiju na Bali no brod se razbija o stijenu, a samo pet sretnika uspijeva isplivati na kopno. Desetak godina poslije, u sliËnoj Êe misiji na otok stiÊi i nizozemski pustolov Cornelis de Houtman pa izmeu ostaloga izvijestiti da su portugalski brodolomci, sad veÊ u sluæbi gelgelskog kralja, dobro i da, oæenjeni Balineæankama, ne namjeravaju napustiti otok. Ne, to uopÊe nije izmiπljotina, premda je nevjerojatno koliko daleko i precizno

Ubud, Kraljevska palaËa/ King’s Palace

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VapnenaËki klifovi, juæna obala/ Limestone cliffs on the southern coast of Bali

Prikaz demona/ Demonic image

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izvjeπtaj pretkazuje buduÊnost. U 17. i 18. stoljeÊu Nizozemci kod kuÊe ratuju s morem, a drugdje viπe manje sa svima, ©panjolcima, Englezima, javanskim i malajskim sultanima, Portugalcima, Francuzima. Zlatno doba nije bilo ni pribliæno mirno, no mlada i poduzetna kraljevina uspijeva skrπiti portugalski monopol u Malaji, utemeljivπi 1619. na otoku Javi svoju kolonijalnu prijestolnicu Bataviju, buduÊu Jakartu. I dok najmoÊnijom mornaricom toga doba IstoËnoindijska kompanija kontrolira svjetske putove zaËina, Bali ostaje u zavjetrini velikih zbivanja. Situacija se stubokom mijenja sredinom 19. stoljeÊa. Nizozemske kolonijalne vlasti æele proπiriti upravu na cijeli indonezijski arhipelag. SlijedeÊi formulu divide et impera, iskoriπtavaju neslogu balineæanskih monarha, kako bi zaposjeli Ëitav otok. Iz uporiπta u Singaraji na sjeveru otoka poduzimaju viπe vojnih intervencija, pokoravajuÊi kraljevstvo po kraljevstvo. Stradanje juænih kraljevina Tabanana i Badunga 1906. zorno je opisano u romanu Ljubav i smrt na Baliju, austrijske autorice svjetski poznatih bestselera Vicki Baum. Vijesti o krvavim ærtvama kraljeva i njihovih vojski, koji odbijaju predaju te u ime Ëasti, goloruki ili samo s noæevima u ruci juriπaju na nizozemske bataljone, putuju svijetom. Dogaaj nije mogao proÊi bez odjeka, kao ni Nizozemska bez osude. Pred oËima javnosti brutalnost tog Ëina nikakao se nije mogla uklopiti u miroljubivu politiku razvoja kolonija, koju su zagovarali liberalni parlamentarci. Ali zanimljivo je to da, potaknuti kritikom javnosti, Nizozemci pokreÊu πiroku kampanju modernizacije Balija usmjerenu restauraciji i oËuvanju izvornih vrijednosti. Loπ medijski imidæ o sebi Nizozemci mijenjaju dobrim imidæem Balija o æivuÊemu muzeju koji bi svatko trebao posjetiti. I tu se krug ponovno zatvara. Nitko ne zna toËan broj hramova na Baliju. Kaæu da ih ima isto toliko koliko i ljudi. Hramovi su mnogo viπe od mjesta obreda i πtovanja. Oni su prave male radiopostaje za komunikaciju sa svijetom duhova. Vjerovanje u duhove zapravo je temelj religiozne svijesti Indoneæana, mnogo stariji od hinduizma koji je na arhipelag stigao iz Indije. Nevidljivi svijet Balija veoma je bogat, od duhova predaka do personificiranih sila prirode. Skladna ravnoteæa odnosa u nepredvidivom i uzburkanom teatru hyanga, za Balineæane je vaænija Ëak i od tipiËnog vedskog uËenja o selidbi duπe. Proæimanje hinduizma s animizmom najbolje se vidi u Ëinu darivanja. U malu koπaricu od suhog palminog lista briæljivo se polaæu riæa, zaËini, duhan i pokoja rupija, a napunjeni canga sari s mirisnim se πtapiÊima zatim prinosi boæanstvu u hramu, na ulici ili kuÊnom oltaru. Organizacija prostora stano-

vanja takoer podlijeæe duhovnim naËelima. Koncept stanovanja na Baliju ne poznaje jedan objekt pod Ëijim se krovom nalaze svi stambeni sadræaji. Kao i kod hramova i palaËa, osnovu strukture tvori dvoriπte omeeno zidom i posebno ukraπenim ulaznim dverima, unutar kojega se, odvojeni, redaju sobe, dnevni boravak, blagovaonica, ostava i kuhinja. Vaænost prostora raste izvana prema unutra, a najvaæniji je srediπnji dio, gdje se nalazi kuÊni hram. Prostorije tvore paviljoni od drvenih stupova, prekriveni slamnatim krovom, i zidane nastambe, obiËno spavaonice od terakote i kamena. Svu ljepotu i ugodu takvog stanovanja najbolje Êete iskusiti odsjednete li u homestay domaÊinstvima, omiljenoj i jeftinoj inaËici smjeπtaja na Baliju. Tradicionalna estetika stanovanja posebno je mjesto naπla u suvremenoj arhitekturi i dizajnu. Prepoznatljivi balinežanski stil svjetski je dizajnerski brend oblikovanja prostora i namjeπtaja s naglaskom na egzotiËnom skladu i estetici tropskih materijala. Bungalovi, kuÊe, vile i hoteli natjeËu se u neprestanom obnavljanju oËito vjeËnog trenda, a mnogi posjetitelji svoje kuÊe i stanove opremaju namjeπtajem kupljenim na Baliju. Uz carine i brodsku poπiljku, cijene su joπ znatno niæe nego na zapadu. Balineæanska kuhinja nudi sve osim kravljeg mesa. Jela su bogata najraznovrsnijm namirnicama, zaËinima, marinadama i umacima. Nasi campur s Balija tipiËan je sloæenac od pomalo svega; riæe, tune, tofua, raænjiÊa, povrtnog curryja, krastavaca i lawara, mjeπavine nasjeckanog peËenja s Ëeπnjakom, Ëilijem, kokosovim orahom, limunskom travom ili citrusima. Umotan u palmin list, uobiËajeno je jelo koje se sluæi u restoranima i omiljenim warung-zalogajnicama. Tu je i tempeh, poznati indonezijski odrezak od fermentirane soje, povrtna sayur juha s tamarindom te pikantni sambal umaci. I preko tanjura evo nas opet do mora. Nekad rub svijeta, prepuπten hiru valova i morskih demona, Bukit je danas najveÊa zona intenzivnog razvoja turistiËke industrije Balija, gdje je svaki pedalj zemlje i viπe nego dragocjen. Benoa, Nusa Dua, Uluwatu ili Pandang taksistima najprije oznaËava toËan smjer za neki od svjetski poznatih resorta, a tek onda mjesni toponim. Blizina zraËne luke, Ëija pista doslovce presijeca najpoznatije plaæe Balija, ne smeta da vile i hoteli cijele godine budu dobro popunjeni. Uz obilje suhog vremena, visoka sezona na Baliju traje od poËetka srpnja do kraja rujna, kada su i cijene najviπe. Plaæa Jimbaran dugi je pjeπËani æal duæ zapadnog ruba uske prevlake πto poluotok Bukit povezuje s ostatkom Balija. Povoljna orijentacija jamËi spektakularne zalaske sunca, a taj se fenomen, uz dodatni sadræaj, ovdje uvijek dobro unovËuje.

Dnevni boravak/ Living room

Svakog dana, veÊ u kasno poslijepodne, krcati stolovi zamjenjuju kupaËe i surfere. Cijela se plaæa pretvara u veliki riblji restoran pod vedrim nebom, koji rujnoπÊu sutona i skupim vinskim kartama, mami sungazere iz obliænjih hotela. Uz rumeni balon πto tone u ocean, sit i zadovoljan, shvatio sam da mi je jasno zaπto je Bali tako primamljiv i opojan, premda odgovora na to pitanje zapravo i nemam. Bali je jednostavno Bali i dugo Êe joπ biti tako. Je li Bali slavan samo zato πto je dalek i neobiËan? Zato πto je egzotiËan? I πto je to uopÊe egzotika? Tek stanje svijesti i moguÊnost koja nas nagoni na putovanja. Na kraju, πto bi bila egzotika za Balineæana, Alpe, snijeg ili pustinja? Q

Rukotvorine/ Handicraft

ery few of those travelling to Bali would consider bragging about going to Indonesia, the largest island state in the world, even though Bali is certainly the most famous island out of the 17,000 islands it approximately has. The smallest of its 34 administrative provinces and unique in terms of its authentic culture of life. Bali has been most important Indonesian tourist resort ever since it was ﬁrst discovered in 1930 ’s. Tourism has somewhat changed the order of things, albeit ever so slightly, because the unique principle honoured by the population of Bali is based CROATIA AIRLINES

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Svakodnevno prinoπenje darova duhovima/ Daily offerings to the spirits

Obred prinoπenja darova duhovima u hramu/ Ceremonial offering to the temple spirits

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on the Tri Hita Karana principle which unites people, gods and nature into a harmonious coexistence, reflected in the spectacular Edenlike vistas which defy the challenges of modernity with unfaltering self-confidence. There is probably no single celebrity in the world whose face has not smiled at you from the photos hung in the lobbies of luxury hotels, while world bestsellers turned blockbuster movies of the Eat, Pray, Love variety, have played their part in the promotion of the island. Bali enjoys the reputation of being a place of exceptional cultural tradition, art and handicraft; Kecak and Legong dances are accompanied by widely famous gamelan orchestras. This is an island of fairytale sandy beaches, paradise bays, splendid sunsets, surfers, honeymooners, of a refined aesthetic offered by modern design and global hotel brands. As you land at Ngurah Rai International airport, it takes just one brief look through the aircraft window to see everything that could be best described as the flagship of Bali’s tourist offer: sandy beaches, temples scattered on limestone cliffs with foaming waves of the turquoise ocean breaking against them, acclaimed surfing spots, docks for large cruise ships, exclusive golf grounds, luxurious villas and spa resorts whose terraces command the most spectacular sunset views. All this is only a 20-minute-drive away, within an easy reach of the airport, so if you happen to be an Australian weekend tourist and a passionate surfer on top of that, you will be able to smell the good waves already at the exit from the airport, wearing your aloha shirt, shorts and carrying a surf board under your arm, which you can do the whole year round because temperatures are always around 30 degrees Celsius owing to the island’s vicinity to the Equator. But it would be really unfair to proceed recklessly and proclaim this compressed area between the coastal slopes of the Bukit peninsula and the fringes of the urban conglomerates of Sanura, Denpasara and Kuta a boring tourist ghetto. There is something to please everybody here, from spicy satay sticks sold in the street and cheap noisy bars to chic restaurants and penthouse swimming pools with a view. Very often the choice between an active life on the waves and a rambunctious night out on the town is not easy to make. It should be said not only for the sake of the many who have not treaded very far from the airport runway, but for everybody else, that Bali offers so much more to all who are prepared to go a bit further afield and explore. The island is actually not big, at least in terms of size. From a Mediterranean perspective, it would fall somewhere between Crete and Majorca. In terms of population, however, with nearly 4 million

Balineæanski hinduistiËki hram/ Balinese Hindu temple Ples Barong/ Barong dance

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Ulazna vrata u hram/ Temple entrance door

Nusa Lembongan, bungalovi/bungalows

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inhabitants, it is on par with Sicily, or Croatia − our favourite grounds for comparison. As most of the Malayan Archipelago, Bali is among some of the world’s most volcanically active places. Two extinguished calderas with crater lakes: Batur, Buyan, Beratan and Tamblingan and some other old volcanoes around them are in the north of the island. Running through these craters are two main roads which connect the overpopulated south with the somewhat sleepy northern part. The biggest volcano on Bali is the three-thousandmetre high cone of Gunung Agung, which rises to the east of the caldera lakes. The Balinese Hindu population believes that the central axis of the universe goes right through it. Pura Besakih, the biggest and most holy temple on Bali is located on the slopes of the volcanic cone. Erected long before Hinduism appeared in Indonesia, the sacred temple evokes the mutual connection that existed between the ancient inhabitants of the island and the capricious powers of nature. It is a fascinating piece of trivia that during the last eruption in 1993, the viscous lava, consuming everything on its way down the slope, missed this sacred place by mere metres leaving the temple virtually intact. One of the two trekking trails to the top of the volcano starts from the foot of the temple. A descent to the sea, along hardened black lava terrain overgrown with forest and high grass feels like travelling through time, from the most ancient geological past to the most recent tourist development. The Balinese are descendants of Austronesian immigrants from Southern China and South-Eastern Asia who settled on the island 4,000 years ago. Their beliefs and customs were shaped by nature and the unfathomable world of spirits, and only later completed by Dharma, teachings which took centuries to move from India to Bali across Java. The links between Bali and neighbouring Java are much deeper than the shallow sea of several kilometres wide that ﬂooded the continental shelf some ten thousand years ago and separated the two islands. What is recognized today as authentic in Balinese music, dance and theatre, has its roots on Java. Several Javanese dynasties tried to impose their inﬂuence on the indigenous Balinese population with mixed luck. In the mid-14th century, the monarchs and diplomats of the powerful Majapahit Empire managed to subjugate Bali permanently owing to the previously established family ties between Balinese and Javanese ruling dynasties. For the next several centuries, the regency of the new king Dewa Agung in the crown city of Gelget, not far from Semarapur, guaranteed the obedience

of other island kingdoms. One man’s dusk is another man’s dawn as the saying goes, so the formerly powerful empire in the Indonesian archipelago slowly receded before the expansion of the sultanates and finally stopped existing in the late 15th century. What remained of the Javanese elite found sanctuary on Bali and the fully independent Gelget kingdom experienced a true renaissance in the 16th century. Batik, gamelan, the puppet shadow theatre and the vast number of temples that mushroomed all over the island are a living memento of that era. Bali owes its perception as a paradise garden to the supreme mastery of landscape architecture; according to the tripartite perception of harmony, this is a joint endeavour of gods, nature and humans. Owing to the fertile volcanic soil, warm weather and ample precipitation, which reaches its peak during the first months of the calendar year, tropical flora abounds all over the island. The islanders receive gifts from the sky and the belly of the earth with ritual gratitude and celebrate the privilege through a humanized system of ecological sustainability and unique aesthetics of the landscape which has been recognized by UNESCO and declared a world heritage site. Subak is the name given to the ancient system of irrigation which can be found only on Bali. It has been the foundation of agriculture and harmonious relationship between people and their environment for centuries. A subak catchment area constitutes a delicate network of canals, tunnels and dams which connect forests, water sources, rice fields and settlements into a closed circle. In its centre is Pura tirta, or a water temple, which is managed by a temple priest who distributes water across terraces. Built several thousand years ago, the system is still in use. The lavish beauty of rural Bali can be best experienced in the town of Ubud and its environs. Located some thirty kilometres from the coast, amidst thick forest and rice fields, on fertile volcanic soil; for a number of years Ubud has been the centre of alternative tourism. In other words, those who get tired of the beaches and noisy nightlife come here. The story goes on. They fall in love with Ubud at first glance and find it hard to say goodbye. A list of activities to pass the time here is rather long and includes yoga, dance courses and cooking lessons while various exhibitions, art colonies, seminars and workshop make Ubud the island’s cultural Mecca. Indeed, the world first got to know Bali thanks to artists. It all started in 1927, after the chaos of the Great War, when German painter Walter Spies, turning to the East in search for order and sense, arrived in Ubud. He stayed there until his tragic death,

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Riæina polja u okolici Ubuda/ Rice ﬁelds around Ubud

Balineæanska primijenjen umjetnost, kiparstvo/ Balinese applied art - sculpture

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in a whirlwind of tragic circumstances at the beginning of Japanese occupation. This artist, together with the Mexican Miguel Covarrubias and American anthropologists Margaret Mead and Gregory Bateson, are most commonly brought up as those who have brought Bali closer to Western cultural consciousness. Besides being dedicated to his art, Spies was also a well recognized erudite and collector of knowledge in various aspects of Balinese culture, art, ethnography and history. Through mutual cooperation and living together with local artists, he exerted an immeasurable influence on the development of modern Balinese art and founded the Museum of Bali where he served as curator. The art scene in Ubud and the spiritual climate of exchange and creativity saw their peek at the end of the 30’s when Bali became the favourite place of the good and great. Thus, a star was born and the path to its ultimate glory was paved. In less than three decades, Bali became one of the most famous tourist destinations, crowned with the glory of being a tropical paradise where everything was about beauty and harmony with nature. Various artistic crafts, in addition to fine art, are an extremely lucrative source of income for a destination which records over 3 million visitors a year. The environs of Ubud are a true agglomeration of little rural settlements which follow each other back to back across green slopes, intersected by transparent rivulets and trekking trails. Where one village ends, another begins, and the boundary between the two can be discerned only by the type of handicraft exhibited in front of the galleries and workshops. Woodcraft, wooden furniture, jewellery, sculptures, masks. Jalan, jalan − Indonesian for just keep on walking down the road and you will hear wind chimes slowly becoming the sound of a stone rapping chisel. But do not start looking for the closest warung in pursuit of a delicious snack in a palm leaf or a smooth-running and cheap Indonesian bear after just a few streets. First, put your hiking or biking abilities to the test. If that does not suit you, continue exploring the area on a rented scooter or by bem, a quirky means of local public transportation which will remind you that the Balinese are passionate fans of cook fights. Make sure to visit the Royal Palace Peliatan in Ubud and Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal, the Great Temple of Death in the Sacred Monkey Forest somewhat further afield. A walk on Campuhan Ridge is a must! Through high grass and green slopes covered with palm and teak trees, to rice and coffee bean fields planted by the most vivid imagination. If this is not enough, and if you think you can do even better than that, you are right. All

depends on whether you can rely on the soles of your feet or on transportation. In any case, a good tip would be to go on, to Tegelang village and the famous rice terraces there. Not far is Pura tirta Empul, a water temple and a place of pilgrimage which you cannot forgo. There is a lot more to see: caves, waterfalls, lakes, torrents, temples, more rice fields and of course, beautiful villas and spa and boutique hotels. Yes, these are the photos depicting infinity edge water pools in the middle of virginal forests regularly featured on internet pages as the top 20 most beautiful places in the world. Did you know that kopi luwak, the most expensive coffee in the world, which is made from coffee berries digested and defecated by the Asian civet originates from Indonesia? A reasonably priced sip of the hot beverage, which can normally set you back as much as 50 US dollars a cup, set me on a journey down memory lane in one of Ubud’s cafes. Just like tea in India, coffee growing in Indonesia is largely a memento to the colonial past. Legend has it that the first Europeans who spotted the paradise island from the deck of their karaka were members of Magellan’s crew whose number had seriously dwindled by then. Their last remaining sailboat had already turned towards Cape Horn when it chanced upon Bali. Not much more remains of that sighting than a sparse entry in the sailboat’s logbook. The first settlers from the Old Continent who disembarked on the island were again the famous admiral’s fellow-nationals. In 1585, the Portuguese governor of Malaya sent a trade mission to Bali but their ship collided with a rock. Only five fortunate sailors managed to swim to shore. Some ten years later, a Dutch adventurer, Cornelis de Houtman, arrived on the island on a similar mission and reported, amongst other things, that the shipwrecked Portuguese sailors, already serving the Gelgel king, were doing well, that they had married Balinese women and showed no intention of leaving the island. No, this is not a fabrication, although it is uncanny how farsighted and precise this report was in forecasting the future. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the Dutch waged war with the sea at home, and with more or less everybody else abroad, the Spaniards, the English, the Javanese and Malayan sultans, the Portuguese, and the French. The golden era was anything but peaceful. The young and entrepreneurial kingdom managed to crush the Portuguese monopoly in Malaya and in 1619 established Batavia, future Jakarta on the island of Java, the seat of its colonies. While the most powerful navy of the time, the East India Company, was in firm control of the global spice trade, Bali remained on the lee side of

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major developments. The situation changed significantly in the mid-19th century. The Dutch colonists wanted to extend their control across the entire Indonesian archipelago. By following the formula divide et impera, they profited from the discord among Balinese monarchs to occupy the entire island. From the stronghold in Singaraj in the north of the island, they embarked on several military campaigns and subjugated one kingdom after the other. The sufferings of the southern kingdoms of Tabanan and Badung in 1906 were vividly described in the novel Love and Death in Bali by the Austrian bestseller author Vicki Baum. The news of the bloody sacrifices of the kings and their armies who refused to surrender and charged against Dutch battalions with bare hands or nothing else but knives in their hands all in the name of honour, travelled the globe. The event could not go unnoticed, and the Netherlands could not go unpunished. Before the eyes of the public, the brutality of their action could not be nicely packaged as the peaceful policy of colonial development as advocated by liberal parliamentarians. Interestingly enough, inspired by public criticism, the 118

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Dutch launched a wide campaign to modernize Bali, aimed at restoring and protecting the island’s original assets. The Dutch replaced the unfavourable public image of themselves with the favourable image of Bali as a living museum that everybody ought to visit. And yet once again, the circle was closed. Nobody knows the exact number of temples on Bali. According to popular wisdom, there are as many as there are people. Temples are much more than places of rite and reverence. They are veritable little radio stations for communicating with the world of spirits. Belief in spirits is actually the foundation of the religious consciousness of Balinese people, a lot older than Hinduism which arrived from India. The invisible world of Bali is exceptionally rich, inhabited by all sorts, ranging from spirits of ancestors to personified powers of nature. The harmonious balance of relationships in an unpredictable and exciting theatre of hyang is more important for the Balinese than the typical transition of the soul prophesized by Veda teachings. The interplay of Hinduism with animism is best reflected in the act of gift offering. Rice, spices, tobacco, a rupee or two, are placed carefully in a small basket made of dry palm leaves, and the full canang sari with incense sticks is then offered to a deity in a temple, on the street or at the house altar. The organization of one’s living space is also a reflection of spiritual principles. The concept of habitation in Bali does not know just one object whose roof covers all the rooms. Just like in temples and palaces, the basic structure is a courtyard, surrounded by a wall with an ornately decorated entrance gate. In the courtyard, rooms, a living room, a dining room, a pantry and a kitchen are separated from each other. The importance of a space keeps growing from the outside to the inside, with the most important part of any abode being the central area which features a house altar. The rooms are either pavilions built on wooden columns and covered with thatched roofs or solid rooms, usually bedrooms built with terracotta and stone. You will experience the beauty and comfort of living in this kind of dwelling if you choose to stay in one of the home stay households, a favourite and cheaper alternative to accommodation in Bali. The traditional Balinese housing aesthetic has found a special place in modern architecture and design. The recognizable Bali-style is a global brand in the design of space and furniture with an emphasis on the exotic harmony and aesthetics of tropical materials. Bungalows, houses, villas and hotels compete in recycling the obviously evergreen trend, and many visitors will end up furnishing their houses and apartments with

furniture purchased in Bali. Even with duties at customs and freight costs added to the actual price paid for the furniture, the outlays are still lower than in the West. Balinese cuisine offers everything but cow meat. Dishes are made with a vast variety of ingredients and abound in spices, marinades and sauces. Balinese Nasi campur is a ubiquitous mixture of a little bit of everything: rice, tuna, tofu, skewers, vegetable curry, cucumbers and lawar, a mixture of cut roast meat with garlic, chilli, coconut milk, walnut, lemon grass or citrus fruit. Wrapped in a palm tree leaf, it is a staple on the menus of restaurants and typical warung diners. There is also tempeh, a popular Indonesian dish made of fermented soya, vegetable sayur soup with tamarind and spicy sambal sauces. Once again, we have reached the sea journeying via food. Once on the edge of the world, abandoned to the whimsical nature of sea waves and sea demons, Bukit is today the largest zone of intense tourist development in Bali where every foot of the land is almost priceless. To taxi drivers, Benoa, Nusa Dua, Uluwatu or Pandang are, first and foremost, directions to one of the globally renowned tourist resorts and then, local place names. The vicinity of the airport, whose runway literally intersects the most famous beaches in Bali, does not bother guests of the villas and hotels which are rather well occupied the whole year round. Owing to good weather, the high season in Bali goes on from mid-July to the end of September, when the prices are also at their highest. Jimbaran beach is a long sandy lagoon along the western edge of the narrow ridge connecting the Bukit peninsula with the rest of Bali. A favourable orientation guarantees spectacular sunsets. Combined with other attractions, this phenomenon is always a bestseller. Every day, starting late in the afternoon, crowded tables replace swimmers and surfers. The entire beach is transformed into a big fish restaurant for alfresco dining which lures sun-gazers from nearby hotels with a promise of redness at dusk and expensive wine menus. Gazing at the scarlet balloon slowly sinking into the ocean, well fed and content, I realized that I figured out why Bali was so enticing and intoxicating. Although the answer to that question actually escapes me. Bali is just Bali and will remain so for years to come. Does Bali owe its reputation to the fact that it is distant and different? That it is exotic? What does exotic mean, after all? It is merely a state of mindand opportunities compelling us to travel. At the end of the day, what would be exotic for a Balinese person? The Alps, snow or a desert, perhaps? Q

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KuÊa braËnog para Miljenka i Ivane FraniÊ/ Miljenko and Ivana FraniÊ’s house

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KULTURA ŽIVLJENJA LIFESTYLE ■

Piše/By Irena IriÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Cropix

Poslovica kako su u postolara najgore cipele, što se tiËe hrvatskih arhitekata, pokazala se posve netoËnom. Naime, u æelji da vidimo u kakvim interijerima æive oni koji se po cijele dane bave osmiπljavanjem domova za druge, posjetili smo stanove i kuÊe πest poznatih domaÊih arhitekata i saznali kako novac nije uvijek odluËujuÊ za dobro ureenje, kako je najvaænije za uspjeπan projekt inteligentno promiπljati o prostoru, kako nespojivi materijali i uzorci nekada zaista dobro funkcioniraju i joπ svaπta drugo. Zavirite s nama u πest genijalnih domova hrvatskih arhitekata. The proverb which says that the cobbler’s son has the worst shoes does not apply to Croatian architects. We wanted to see the residences of the people whose job is to design other people’s homes, so we visited six famous Croatian architects’ apartments and houses and learned that money is not always crucial for good interior design, that the most important factor in a successful project is the intelligent consideration of the space, that sometimes seemingly mismatched materials and patterns work great together, and many other things. Join us in taking a peek into six amazing homes of Croatian architects.

Moderna vila s fascinantnim pogledom na braËki kanal VLASNICI: Miljenko i Ivana FraniÊ LOKACIJA: Makarska ARHITEKT: Miljenko FraniÊ Moderna vila ispod Biokova s nevjerojatnim pogledom. Tako bi se najbolje mogla opisati fascinantna kuÊa na Velikom Brdu u Makarskoj, u vlasniπtvu arhitekta Miljenka FraniÊa i njegove supruge Ivane FraniÊ MarkoviÊ, koji su sami osmislili cijeli projekt i tako stvorili dom baπ po svojoj mjeri i guπtima. − KuÊa je velika 400 Ëetvornih metara, a podigli smo je u rekordnih pet mjeseci − kaæe simpatiËan par dodajuÊi kako iz stila ureenja nekog stana ili kuÊe lako i brzo moæeπ shvatiti kakvi su ljudi koji tu æive. Tako je i s naπom kuÊom koja svakim svojim centimetrom vriπti naπa imena − smije se Ivana.

PriËa s ovom kuÊom, kaæe, poËela je sasvim sluËajno kada je suprugu Miljenku neki poznanik 2007. godine rekao da zna za super lokaciju za gradnju kuÊe. Zemljiπte je imalo lokacijsku dozvolu za kuÊu i sagraene temelje, a Ivana i Miljenko odmah su na njemu mogli zamisliti savrπenu kuÊu za sebe. − Imali smo jasnu viziju onoga πto æelimo u konaËnici postiÊi. Od poËetka smo htjeli sagraditi modernu, minimalistiËku kuÊu, πto smo i uspjeli u vrlo kratkom roku. Vodili smo raËuna o dobroj termoizolaciji, kvalitetnim otvorima (eloksirani izo aluminiji) i toplom podu (tikov parket). Suprug Miljenko oduvijek je bio ljubitelj moderne arhitekture, a zajedno smo preko raznih monograﬁja pregledali na stotine kuÊa i divili se nekim jednostavnim i visokofunkcionalnim rjeπenjima, kako konstrukcija samih objekata, tako i ureenja CROATIA AIRLINES

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− Htjeli smo uæivati u tim ljepotama u svim godiπnjim dobima, πto nam je omoguÊilo mnogo otvora na svim proËeljima − otkriva Ivana. ©to se tiËe ureenja, to nije iπlo brzo poput gradnje. Ureivali su postupno, polako i promiπljeno. Nije odmah sve bilo tip-top. − Modernu bijelu kuhinju Vaneta Cucine kupili smo u splitskoj trgovini Mio-Dino, kauËe smo donijeli iz starog stana, neke antikne naslijeene komade namjeπtaja takoer smo prenijeli i uklopili u moderni interijer. Lokalni stolari LonËar i Mraz izradili su ugradbene ormare, radni stol na galeriji, elemente u boravku, a moj roak i vrsni bravar Zoran MioËeviÊ napravio je sve ograde. Kompletan interijer osmislili smo suprug i ja te ga prilagodili vlastitom ukusu, koji mi opisujemo kao minimalistiËki s domaÊim ugoajem − kaæe Ivana, a na pitanje koja joj je najdraæa prostorija, odgovora: − S obzirom na to da je kuÊa povezana u svakom svom segmentu, bez obzira na veliËinu, nemam najdraæu prostoriju. Kavu i novine najradije obavljamo za visokim stolom u kuhinji, ruËamo uvijek u blagovaonici, u dnevnom boravku Ëitamo, gledamo TV, druæimo se. Djeca bi vjerojatno rekla kako im je najdraæa soba na katu, kojom se koriste kao igraonicom. Isto tako, galerija je pravi multipraktik, svi se guraju za raËunalo, mnogo se crta i piπe za tim stolom, a pogledi su veliËanstveni iz svih kutaka. Ljeti, pak, uvijek jedemo na terasi − zakljuËuje Ivana.

FraniÊ

interijera. U Makarskoj do tada i nije bilo baπ nekih oglednih primjera moderne arhitekture, no moram reÊi kako se situacija u posljednje vrijeme mijenja nabolje, a u gradu djeluje više lokalnih arhitekata koji svoju paænju sve viπe usmjeravaju modernom i estetskom oblikovanju objekata. Zbog naglog razvoja turizma do poËetka rata gradilo se stihijski ili kako se moglo, no u posljednje vrijeme ljudi postaju sve svjesniji vaænosti lijepe arhitekture, πto nas osobno raduje − kaže Ivana, dodajuÊi kako su nakon izgradnje kuÊe susjedi reagirali svakojako. Uglavnom pozitivno, a katkad i s Ëuenjem. − No, zapazili smo da u ljetnim mjesecima brojni turisti Ëesto usporavaju automobile da bi pogledali naπu kuÊu, i to nas uvijek iznova razveseli − kaæe Ivana. KuÊa se prostire na Ëak tri etaæe − podrumsku, prizemnu i katnu. U podrumu se nalaze teretana, ostava i strojarnica. U prizemlju je garaæa iz koje se moæe doÊi u dnevni boravak, koji se nalazi u prizemnom dijelu i s kuhinjom i blagovaonicom spojen je u jednu prostoriju. Takvo open ﬂoor rjeπenje, kaæe Ivana, ima viπe prednosti nego mana. 122

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− Komunikacija je izvanredna, djeca su mi stalno na oku, a takav koncept prisiljava nas i na urednost u svakom trenutku, πto je super − objaπnjava Ivana. Na katu kuÊe nalaze se Ëetiri spavaÊe sobe, velika roditeljska s kupaonicom, dvije djeËje sa zajedniËkom kupaonicom i gostinjska soba s kupaonicom i balkonom, koja je stalno u pogonu. Ma, kod nas je stalno veselo i dinamiËno − kaæe simpatiËna vlasnica dodajuÊi kako je prilikom planiranja organizacije prostora kuÊe suprug osobito vodio raËuna o proæimanju gornje i donje etaæe, ali i o komunikaciji objekta s okolinom. To je bilo odluËujuÊe zbog lokacije. Naime, iz kuÊe se pruæa fantastiËan pogled na BraËki kanal, otoke BraË, Hvar, poluotok Peljeπac, pa Ëak i na otok KorËulu.

FraniÊ

©armantna drvena klet u Zagorju, koja se spojila s prirodom VLASNICI: Andrija i Jasminka Rusan LOKACIJA: Gornja Podgora ARHITEKTI: Andrija i Jasminka Rusan Arhitekt Andrija Rusan jednostavno je zaljubljen u svoju drvenu kuÊu od 144 Ëetvorna metra u Zagorju, u kojoj provodi svaki slobodan trenutak, puni baterije za nove radne izazove i druæi se s obitelji i prijateljima. − Osnovni je koncept kuÊe spoj modernizma i ruralnih vrijednosti. Na prvi pogled kuÊa odaje sliku tradicionalne drvene zagorske kuÊe, a radikalnim otvaranjem prema prirodi i oblikovanjem detalja pokazuje pripadnost suvremenosti − objaπnjava Andrija Rusan koji je ovu kuÊu projektirao zajedno sa suprugom, takoer arhitekticom Jasminkom Rusan. − U ulaznom prostoru nalazi se garderobni ormar i drveno stubište koje vodi u potkrovlje. Na zapadnoj strani prostor je za dnevni boravak s otvorenom kuhinjom i izlaskom na prostranu terasu. Uz kuhinju je vezan prostor izbe, proπiren i gospodarskim sadræajima. Na istoËnoj strani nalazi se roditeljska spavaonica s radnim kutkom. Uza sobu je smjeπtena i

Cijeli stan ureen je za samo 25.000 kuna VLASNICI: Mario i Vanja FurËiÊ LOKACIJA: Zagreb PROJEKT: Studio Tim Bolje NovozagrebaËki stan orijentacije istok-sjever u stambenoj zgradi iz 70-ih godina arhitekt Mario FurËiÊ naslijedio je od bake. Od postojeÊega prostornog izgleda zadræani su samo stari zidovi, a zaruËnica, kustosica Vanja Æanko i on zatim su ga sami uredili. − Stavili smo nove ploËice u kuhinji, s uzorkom drva, postavljene kao decking. Lamperiju smo postavili u spavaÊoj sobi, do pola visine zida. Obojili smo kompletan stan u bijelo. Niπta nismo zadræali od starog namjeπtaja, postupno smo ga izbacivali kako bismo kupili neπto novo.

Rusan

kupaonica. U potkrovlju, do kojeg se dolazi drvenim stubiπtem, dvije su spavaÊe sobe, jedna djeËja, a druga gostinjska. Uz djeËju spavaÊu sobu nalazi se i prostor dnevnog boravka djece. Taj prostor ima i konzolni balkon koji lebdi iznad πume, iza koje se otvaraju prekrasni vidici Zagorja. U potkrovlju je smjeπtena joπ jedna kupaonica − nabraja Andrija Rusan i dodaje kako je u eksterijeru najviše hrastove drvene obloge, koja niËim nije tretirana. Drvo, ovisno o izloæenosti atmosferilijama, dobiva sivu patinu. U interijeru, pak, od materijala najviπe prevladava terazzo obloga na podu, pjeskareni betonski stupovi i drvene obloge u svijetlom brezovu furniru. Centralni prostor okupljanja prijatelja i obitelji jest dnevni boravak, koji je velikim staklenim stijenama otvoren na tri strane i maksimalno uvlaËi prirodu u interijer. Terasa je, pak, produæetak dnevnog boravka − objaπnjava arhitekt Andrija Rusan i napominje kako je terasa omiljeni dio kuÊe. Prostrana je (Ëak 60 Ëetvornih metara) i sastoji se od natkrivenog ganjka na juænoj strani, koji je najugodniji za boravak u hladnijem razdoblju, a za sunËanih dana ugodno je na sjeverozapadu na πiroj terasi na kojoj se nalaze roπtilj i stol za blagovanje. ©to se tiËe spavaÊih soba, ovdje je namjeπtaj raen po mjeri. Visina leæaja usklaena je s visinom prozorskih otvora. − Kad leæite u krevetu, niπta ne ometa izravnu vizuru na krajolik. Svi ormari u sobama, zapravo cijeloj kuÊi, naËinjeni su kao ugraeni. SpavaÊe sobe u potkrovlju imaju kose stropove, obraene takoer u brezovu furniru, πto pridonosi toplini ugoaja, Podovi su od jednostavnoga hrastova parketa − opisuje arhitekt Andrija Rusan.

Velika je veÊina iz IKEA-e, najviπe nam odgovara njihova slikovita linija Hemnes te linija od punog drva Norden. Kuhinja je iz linije Udden, samostojeÊa kuhinja od inoksa. Od dizajnerskih komada najdraæa nam je podna svjetiljka id Grupe. Zidovi su puni umjetnina naπih prijatelja, kao Oko, Zlatan VehaboviÊ, Stipan TadiÊ, Puma 34, Ines MatijeviÊ... − kažu Mario i Vanja i dodaju kako su za mjesec dana sve isprojektirali, izveli i uselili se, ali stan se ureivao joπ sljedeÊih godinu dana. Najvaænije im je, kaæu, bilo postiÊi ugodan ambijent, pogotovo detaljima i umjetninama. VeÊina stana prekrivena je parketom, a kupaonica i kuhinja su u ploËicama. Kuhinja nema zidne ploËice nego je obojena perivom bojom. Ostatak zidova obojen je obiËnom bijelom boInterijer πarmantne drvene kleti obitelji Rusan/ The interior of the Rusan family’s charming wooden cellar

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Ugodan i funkcionalan prostor arhitekta Marija i kustosice Vanje/ Architect Mario and curator Vanja’s comfortable and functional living space

jom. Boravak i kuhinja u punoj πirini prostorije imaju traku prozora − kažu Mario i Vanja, koji su osobito ponosni baπ na kuhinju koja ima retro πtih i sastoji se od niza elementa lijevo i desno. Donji su elementi samostojeÊi, metalni, podsjeÊaju na profesionalne restoranske kuhinje. Od bake je zadræan hladionik i štednjak. Gornji su elementi od lakiranog medijapana sa slikovitim frontama, a preko puta dvije su crne police s izabranim posuem, ovisno o raspoloæenju. FurËiÊ

Posebnost kuhinje je takoer to πto u njoj nema nijedne ladice jer pribor za jelo Mario i Vanja dræe ondje gdje se suπi nakon pranja. U sklopu dnevnog boravka nalazi se i posebno organiziran radni prostor koji je vlasnicima veoma drag jer sami su ga osmislili do zadnjeg centimetra. Radni stol napravljen je od drvenih greda s ploËom od bijelog iverala. Stolica za radni stol spaπena je iz socijalistiËkog frizerskog salona i Mario i Vanja tvrde da nema udobnije od nje. Najintimniji dio stana, spavaÊa soba, takoer je priËa za sebe. U njoj vlada pomalo nordijski ugoaj, bijela lamperija podsjeÊa na ladanjsku kuÊu, πto je naglaπeno slikom Ines MatijeviÊ, s duhom jelena. Umjesto ormara stavljeni su kuhinjski elementi, dignuti od poda. Najljepπa kuÊa Gorskog kotara VLASNICI: Jadranka i Nikola Polak LOKACIJA. Vrh, Ravna Gora, Gorski kotar PROJEKT: Jadranka Polak Vikendica obitelji Polak od 120 Ëetvornih metara, s okuÊnicom od 800 Ëetvornih metara, raena je samo s jednim ciljem − da se u njoj svi osjeÊaju opuπteno i sretno. Ta mala, ali jednostavna, ugodna i funkcionalna kuÊica oduπevljava veÊ na prvi pogled jer teπko da itko moæe ostati ravnoduπan na drvenu kuÊicu na rubu πume, u kojoj se s prozora dnevnog boravka niæu planovi brda obraslih πumom i nema ni jednog elementa koji je napravio Ëovjek.

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− Ulazna etaæa sadræava ulazni trijem, prostor 3 u 1 (boravak/kuhinja/blagovaonica) s drvenom terasom, malu kupaonicu i jednu gostinjsku sobu. U potkrovlju su radna galerija i dvije spavaÊe sobe s kupaonicom. Kako bi uπtedjeli na prostoru stubište, u podrum se ulazi otklapanjem poklopca u podu dnevnog boravka, πto se pokazalo izvrsnim. Podrum pod dijelom kuÊe spremiπte je s tehniËkim prostorom − objaπnjava arhitektica Jadranka Polak koja, da mora birati tri rijeËi kojima bi opisala svoju kuÊu, to bi bilo: pogled, dobar miris, jednostavnost. − Najvaænije u ovom projektu bilo nam je postiÊi jednostavnost u volumenu i materijalima. Materijali koji prevladavaju su ariπ od kojega je proËelje, prozori i podovi te aluminij, od kojega je napravljen krov − kaæe arhitektica Jadranka Polak naglaπavajuÊi kako joj je za cijeli projekt trebalo dvije godine. Grijanje je u ovoj kuÊi na elektriËni bojler, kojim se upravlja telefonom, a vlasnica kaæe kako su joπ u potrazi za gusanom peÊi kao dodatkom. Cjelokupni interijer kuÊe osmiπljen je relativno jednostavno, u Ëemu je njegova najveÊa ljepota. U dnevnom je boravku sofa veliËine samo za leæanje, πto je, kaæe, izvrsno, jer cijela se obitelj uvijek skupi i odmara na tom divanu. Blagovaonica je, pak, organizirana tako da za stol stane mnogo ljudi te da se jede ondje gdje se i kuha i boravi. SpavaÊa soba takoer je jednostavno ureena. − Ariπ plus bijelo. Kao noÊni ormariÊi sluæe

panjevi i koπara za krumpir − kaæe arhitektica Polak dodajuÊi kako je kuÊa postavljena okomito na pad terena, a podrum je uvuËen u odnosu na proËelje. Tako se formira jedna nadstreha kao prostor za pohranu drva za ogrjev. To se u Gorskom kotaru veoma cijeni. Urbano i mladenaËki, ali s mnogo stila VLASNICA: Ana Bilan LOKACIJA: Zagreb PROJEKT: Ana Bilan − Stan je osmiπljen kao velika prostorija, open space gdje se spajaju radni dio, dnevna soba s kuhinjom i blagovaonicom. Ovaj stan kupila sam u novosagraenoj zgradi u kojoj sam prvi vlasnik. ZateËen je trosobni stan s kupaonicom na sredini prostora. OdluËila sam stan prilagoditi svojim potrebama te sam maknula sve pregradne zidove. U open space smjestila sam kuhinju s blagovaonicom, centralni boravak i radni prostor. Problem u

Polak

tom konceptu pojavio se kada sam morala naÊi novu poziciju kupaonice. Jedina alternativna pozicija bila je nasuprot boravku, πto mi funkcionalno i estetski nikako nije odgovaralo. Ideja o skrivenoj kupaonici doπla je spontano i odmah mi se svidjela jer bila je neπto novo i inovativno − kaže arhitektica Ana Bilan, koja svoj dom opisuje kao minimalistiËki, svijetao i energiËan. KonaËni cilj bio mi je osmisliti funkcionalan, jednostavan i prozraËan prostor. U stanu sam iskoristila mnoga pravila japanskog minimaliz-

ma, a nit vodilja bila je bijela kojom sam æeljela stvoriti nenametljivi hladan kostur koji Êe se s godinama puniti πarenilom s pomoÊu sitnih dizajnerskih detalja, uspomenama i knjigama − kaæe Ana. Kako joj je budæet bio limitiran, koristila se jeftinijim materijalom. Gotovo je sav namjeπtaj custom-made, od bijelog iverala, a kuhinja je od bijelog retro materijala ultrapasa. − Bilo mi je vaæno ukomponirati πto viπe hrvatskog dizajna pa je garnitura za sjedenje hrvatski dizajn od ekokoæe, stolice u radnom dijelu jesu 100lica od brenda Lega-Lega.

Vikendica arhitektice Jadranke Polak postavljena okomito na pad terena/ The construction of architect Jadranka Polak’s summer cottage is adapted to the contour of the ground CROATIA AIRLINES

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Ostali komadi su IKEA, a nekoliko dizajnerskih komada dobila sam na dar − objaπnjava arhitektica Ana Bilan, koja je u svom stanu najzadovoljnija kuhinjom jer velika je i u njoj je apsolutno sve πto jedna kuhinja treba imati. − Nedostaje mi joπ drobilica za otpatke, a svia mi se πto nema ni jedne vidljive utiËnice, nego se izvlaËe iz elemenata − kaæe Ana koja maksimalno uæiva u svom stanu, jedino joj, kaæe, nedostaje terasa. Naime, voljela bi sunËane dane provoditi na otvorenome. Ovo je stan eksperiment VLASNICI: obitelj JukiÊ LOKACIJA: Zagreb ARHITEKT: Vedran JukiÊ Dvoipolsobni novozagrebaËki stan, orijentiran na istok, koji se nalazi u stambenoj zgradi s poËetka 80-ih, slobodno moæemo nazvati arhitektonskom igraonicom. − Stan je fazno adaptiran, a proces adaptacije joπ traje − kaæe arhitekt Vedran JukiÊ i dodaje kako mu je osnovna æelja bila deﬁnirati

Bilan

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raznolik stambeni ambijent koji daje trajnu moguÊnost eksperimentiranja bojama, oblicima i detaljima. − Tijekom izvedbe rabili su se razliËiti jeftini materijali, koji su dobili neuobiËajene uloge. Tako je pod dnevnog dijela obloæen bijelim OSB ploËama, naranËasti buæiri sluæe kao lajsne na spojevima poda i zida, polica za knjige dizajnirana je od opeke i kartonskih cijevi. Rasvjeta u dnevnom traktu dizajnirana je s osnovnim elektriËarskim rasvjetnim elementima − kabel, keramiËko grlo, velika æarulja i buæir. U predsoblju se kao sjenilo iskoristio gradiliπni ostatak od velike instalacijske cijevi, a u kupaonicama je rasvjeta rijeπena u zidu koji ih dijeli (fluo cijevi duæ cijelog zida pri podu i pri stropu) − objaπnjava arhitekt Vedran JukiÊ. Dnevni boravak u ovom stanu ukljuËuje boravak, blagovaonicu, kuhinju i vrt na loi. Organiziran je kao oblikovno cjeloviti prostor u kojemu prevladava bijela boja, s akcentima naranËaste i crvene. Neizostavni element boravka jest bujno zelenilo u interijeru i vrt s povrÊem u eksterijeru. Kuhinja je, pak, svedena na ono najvaænije − radnu plohu i vertikalne ploËaste nosaËe, izmeu kojih se ubacuju razliËiti aparati i mobilijar. Na zidu je postavljeno posue za kuhanje. Svaka posuda ima svoje mjesto, a njezin oblik zacrtan je flomasterom kako bi se lakπe pozicionirala. Q A modern villa with a fascinating view of the BraË Channel OWNERS: Miljenko and Ivana FraniÊ LOCATION: Makarska ARCHITECT: Miljenko FraniÊ A modern villa beneath the Biokovo Mountain which boasts an amazing view. This is the best description of the fascinating house on Veliko Brdo in Makarska, owned by the architect Miljenko FraniÊ and his wife, Ivana FraniÊ MarkoviÊ, who designed the entire project themselves, creating a home according to their own needs and taste. − The house covers some 400 square meters and we built it within a record-breaking, five months − says the friendly couple, adding that one can easily and quickly deduce what residents are like by looking at the design of an apartment or a house. This is also true in the case of our home, every inch of which screams our names − Ivana laughs. The story of this house, she says, began by accident in 2007, when an acquaintance mentioned to her husband, Miljenko, that he knew of a great location to build a house. The land had a location permit for residential buildings and the foundations were already in place, and Ivana and Miljenko immediately pictured the perfect house for themselves.

- We had a clear vision of what we ultimately wanted to achieve. From the very beginning we wanted to build a modern, minimalist house, and we did it in a very short time span. We made sure the house was supplied with good thermal insulation, high-quality apertures (eloxed iso aluminum) and heated ﬂoors (teak hardwood ﬂoors). My husband, Miljenko, has always loved modern architecture, and we perused different monographs, viewing hundreds of houses and admiring simple and highly functional solutions, both in terms of construction and interior design. At the time, Makarska lacked representative examples of modern architecture, but I must say that recently this situation has been changing for the better, and there are a number of local architects working in the town whose attention is increasingly

©to viπe hrvatskog dizajna u stanu arhitektice Ane Bilan/ Architect Ana Bilan’s apartment abounds in Croatian design

focused on the modern and aesthetic design of facilities. Due to the rapid development of tourism prior to the war, construction was random and unplanned, but lately, people are more and more aware of the importance of beautiful architecture, and we are both glad that this is so − says Ivana, adding that after the house was built the neighbours had different reactions. Most of the reactions were positive, but some were also surprising. − We noticed that during the summer months many tourists slow down as they drive by so that they can catch a glimpse of our house, and we are always pleased to see that − says Ivana. The house has three floors − the basement, the ground floor and the first floor. The basement houses the fitness room, pantry and the utility room. On the ground floor is a garage

from which you can access the living area, and this merges into a single space with the kitchen and the dining area. This open floor solution, as Ivana says, has more advantages than drawbacks. − The communication is extraordinary. I can keep an eye on the children, and this concept also forces us to be tidy at all times, which is great − Ivana explains. The house’s first floor has four bedrooms − the parents’ large bedroom with a bathroom, two children’s bedrooms with a shared bathroom, and the guestroom with a bathroom and balcony, which is always in use. Our house is always merry and dynamic − says the friendly owner, adding that, when planning the organization of the space, her husband made sure that the upper and the lower floors were integrated, and

also that the entire house communicated with the environment. This is crucial because of the location. Namely, the house offers a fantastic view of the BraË Channel, the islands of BraË and Hvar, the peninsula of Peljeπac and even the island of KorËula. - We wanted to enjoy this great beauty during every season, which allowed us to make numerous windows on all the facades − Ivana reveals. The interior design was, however, not as fast as the construction. They decorated their house gradually, slowly and with deliberation. Not everything was perfect immediately. − We bought the modern white kitchen Veneta Cucine at the Split-based shop Mio-Dino, the couches were brought over from the old apartment, and some of the inherited antique CROATIA AIRLINES

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JukiÊ

furniture pieces were also transported here and merged with the modern interior. The local carpenters LonËar and Mraz made the built-in closets, the desk in the loft and the living area furniture, while my relative, Zoran MioËeviÊ, an excellent blacksmith, built all the railings. My husband and I communicated about the interior and adapted it to our taste, which we would describe as minimalist with an inviting home atmosphere − says Ivana. We asked her which room is her favourite: − Since all the segments of the house, regardless of size, are connected, I don’t have a favourite room. We do our coffee-and-paper ritual at the kitchen counter, we always lunch in the dining area, and we read, watch TV and spend family time in the living area. On the 128

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other hand, my children would probably say that their favourite room is the one on the upper ﬂoor, which they use as a playroom. Also, the loft is indeed multifunctional, everyone uses the computer there, there is a lot of sketching and drawing and writing done at the desk, and the views are magniﬁcent from every corner. In the summer we always eat on the terrace − Ivana concludes. A charming wooden cottage in Zagorje which merges with nature OWNERS: Andrija and Jasminka Rusan LOCATION: Gornja Podgora ARCHITECTS: Andrija and Jasminka Rusan The architect Andrija Rusan is simply in love with his 144-square-meter wooden house,

where he spends every spare moment he has, recharging his batteries for new challenges at work and socializing with family and friends. − The house’s basic concept is a combination of modernism and rural values. At first glance the house reflects the image of a traditional Zagorje wooden house, while its radical orientation toward nature and the shaping of details show that it belongs to modern times − explains Andrija Rusan, who designed this house together with his wife, Jasminka Rusan, who is also an architect. − The entrance area features a wardrobe and a wooden staircase leading to the garret. On the western side is the living area with an open kitchen and an exit to a spacious terrace. Next to the kitchen is a pantry, which includes commercial kitchen equipment. On the eastern side is the parents’ bedroom with a work nook. Next to the bedroom is the bathroom. In the garret, which is accessed by a wooden staircase, are two bedrooms; one for the children and the other for guests. Next to the children’s bedroom is the children’s living area. This area also features a cantilevered balcony floating above the forest, beyond which there are beautiful vistas of Zagorje. The garret houses another bathroom − elaborates Andrija Rusan, adding that the exterior is mostly covered with untreated oak panels. The wood gains a grey patina depending on its exposure to environmental influences. The interior, on the other hand, mostly features terrazzo covering the floor, sandblasted concrete pillars and wooden panels made with a light birch wood veneer. The central space is the living area, where family and friends gather. It has large glass walls which open it to the outside on three sides and draw the nature into the interior as much as possible. The terrace is, on the other hand, an extension of the living area − explains the architect Andrija Rusan, noting that the terrace is the most beloved part of the house due to its size (60 m2) and its roofed balcony on the southern side, which is the most pleasant on cooler days, while during sunny days, there is a broad terrace on the north-west side with a barbecue and dining table. The furniture for the bedrooms was custommade. The height of the beds is level with the window-sills. − When you lie in bed there is nothing obstructing the direct view of the landscape. All the closets in the rooms − as a matter of fact in the entire house − are built-in. The bedrooms in the garret have slanted ceilings, also covered with a birch wood veneer, which contributes to the warm atmosphere. The floors are made of simple oak hardwood − the architect Andrija Rusan describes.

The renovation cost of the entire apartment was only 25,000 HRK OWNERS: Mario and Vanja FurËiÊ LOCATION: Zagreb PROJECT BY: Studio Tim Bolje The architect Mario FurËiÊ inherited an east and north facing apartment in a 1970s, Novi Zagreb residential building from his grandmother. Of the original design, only the old walls were kept, and he and his ﬁancée, the museum curator Vanja Æanko, redecorated it themselves. − We retiled the kitchen with wood-pattern tiles laid as decking. We have wainscoting in the bedroom, up half of the wall. We painted the entire apartment white. We kept none of the old furniture. We discarded it item by item in order to make room for new furniture. Most of the furniture is from IKEA, and we favour their picturesque Hemnes line and the solid wood Norden line. The kitchen is from the Udden line, and it is a free-standing inox kitchen. Among the designer pieces, our favourite is the Grupa ﬂoor lamp. The walls are full of our friends’ artwork, such as Oko, Zlatan VehaboviÊ, Stipan TadiÊ, Puma 34, Ines MatijeviÊ... − Mario and Vanja tell us, adding that it took them a month to design and install everything and move in, but they spent another year redecorating the place. The most important thing, they say, was to achieve an inviting atmosphere, particularly

with details and artwork. Most of the apartment is covered with hardwood ﬂoors, while the bathroom and the kitchen are tiled. The kitchen does not have wall tiles, but is painted with washable paint. The remaining walls are painted in simple white. The living room and the kitchen have a row of windows covering their full breadth − Mario and Vanja say, especially proud of their metallic kitchen which is reminiscent of professional restaurant kitchens. They kept the grandmother’s refrigerator and cooking stove. The upper cabinets are made of varnished MDF with picturesque front panels, and across from them are two black shelves with a selection of dishes, which are chosen depending on the mood. Another distinct feature of the kitchen is that there are no drawers, since Mario and Vanja keep the silverware in the same rack where it dries after washing. A specially organized workspace is located within the living room, which the owners are particularly fond of since they designed it themselves to the very last inch. The desk is made of wooden planks with a board made of white reﬁned chipboard. The chair for the desk was salvaged from a Socialist-era hairdresser’s shop, and Mario and Vanja claim that it is the most comfortable chair ever. The most intimate part of the apartment, the bedroom, has its own story. It has a somewhat Nordic atmosphere, and its white wainscoting is reminiscent of a country house, which is em-

phasized by Ines MatijeviÊ’s painting depicting the spirit of a deer. Kitchen cabinets raised off the floor serve as closets. Gorski Kotar’s most beautiful house OWNERS: Jadranka and Nikola Polak LOCATION: Vrh, Ravna Gora, Gorski Kotar region PROJECT BY: Jadranka Polak The Polak family’s 120-square-meter weekend cottage on a plot of land covering 800 m2 was built with only one purpose in mind − that everyone feels relaxed and happy in it. This small, yet simple, comfortable and functional cottage inspires enthusiasm at the very first glance, as no one can remain indifferent to the wooden cottage at the edge of the forest, with living room windows that offer a view of woody hills, and there is not a single man-made element. − The entrance floor contains the front porch, a 3 in 1 area (living area/kitchen/dining area) with a wooden terrace, a small bathroom and a guestroom. The garret houses the work loft and two bedrooms with a bathroom. In order to save on space for the staircase, the basement is accessed by lifting a lid in the living area floor, which has proven to be an excellent solution. The basement under part of the house serves as storage with a technical space − explains the architect Jadranka Polak. If she had to describe her house in only three words, they would be: view, heavenly scents, simplicity.

U stanu arhitekta Vedrana JukiÊa materijali su dobili neuobiËajene uloge/ In architect Vedran JukiÊ’s apartment materials have been given unusual roles CROATIA AIRLINES

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− The most important thing in this project was to achieve simplicity, both in volume and in materials. The prevailing materials are larch-wood, which was used for the façade, windows and floors, and aluminium, which was used for the roof, says the architect Jadranka Polak, emphasizing that it took her two years to complete the entire project. The house is heated by an electric water heater which is operated by telephone, and the owner says that they are still searching for a cast-iron stove to supplement it. The entire interior was designed to be relatively simple, which is its greatest beauty. Thus, the living room features a sofa whose size makes it suitable for lounging only, which is, she says, an excellent thing, since the entire family gathers here to relax on it. On the other hand, the dining area is organized in such a way that it can seat many people at the table, and thus the dining, cooking and living areas are merged. The bedroom is also simply designed. − Larch-wood plus white. Tree-trunks and a potato basket serve as nightstands − says the architect Polak, adding that the house is laid perpendicular to the slope of the terrain, and the basement is pulled in with respect to the façade. This forms a canopy for storing fuel wood, which is a highly valued thing in Gorski Kotar. An urban and youthful place, but with lots of style OWNER: Ana Bilan LOCATION: Zagreb PROJECT BY: Ana Bilan − The apartment is designed as a single large room; an open space where the working area and the living room merge with the kitchen and the dining room. I bought this apartment in a new building where I was the first owner. The original apartment had three rooms with a bathroom in the middle. I decided to adapt the place to my needs, and I removed all the dividing walls. I placed the kitchen with the dining area, and the central living and working areas into an open space. This concept became problematic when I needed to find a new position for the bathroom. The only alternative position was across from the living area, which was a bad solution both in terms of functionality and aesthetics. The idea of a hidden bathroom came about spontaneously and I liked it right away, as it was something new and innovative, says the architect Ana Bilan, who describes her home as minimalist, full of light and energy. My ultimate goal was to design a functional, simple and translucent space. I used many rules of Japanese minimalism, and my guiding idea was the colour white, with which I aimed to create an unintrusive and somewhat cold frame, which will, over the years, become infused with colour, as small design details, souvenirs and books are added − says Ana, emphasizing that, since her budget was limited, she used low-cost materials. Almost all the furniture was custom-made from white refined chipboard, and the retro material HPL was used for the kitchen. − For me, it was important to incorporate as much Croatian design as possible, so the living room furniture is a Croatian design piece made of eco leather, and the chairs in the working area are the brand Lega-Lega’s 100lica. 130

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Other pieces are by IKEA, and I got several designer pieces as presents − explains the architect Ana Bilan, whose favourite section of the apartment is the kitchen, as it is large and contains absolutely everything that a kitchen should have. v One thing I lack is a food waste disposer, and I like that there are no visible plugs; instead, plugs are pulled out from the kitchen cabinets − says Ana, who enjoys her apartment to the full. The only thing she misses, though, is a terrace. Namely, she would love to spend sunny days out in the open. This is an experimental apartment OWNERS: The JukiÊ Family LOCATION: Zagreb ARCHITECT: Vedran JukiÊ The two-and-a-half-room apartment in Novi Zagreb, facing east, located in an early 1980s residential building, can be named an architect’s playroom. − The apartment was renovated in stages, and the process is ongoing − says the architect Vedran JukiÊ, adding that his main wish was to define a diverse residential space which offers the permanent possibility of experimenting with colours, shapes and details. − During the renovation, different low-cost materials were used, which took on unusual roles. Thus, the living area floor was covered in white OSB boards, orange pipes serve as trims where the floor and the walls meet, and the bookshelf was fashioned from bricks and cardboard tubes. The lighting in the living area was designed using basic electric lighting elements − cables, ceramic socket, a large light-bulb and plastic pipes. A remnant of a large fitting pipe salvaged from a construction site was used as a lampshade in the lobby, while the bathrooms are illuminated by fixtures integrated into the dividing walls (fluorescent tubes across the wall near the floor and the ceiling) − the architect Vedran JukiÊ explains. The living area in this apartment includes the living room, dining room, kitchen and the loggia garden. It is organized as a space with integrated design, dominated by white, with orange and red accents. The living area’s vital element is the lush green in the interior and the vegetable garden outside. The kitchen is, on the other hand, reduced to the bare essentials − the countertop and vertical carrier boards, which store different kitchen appliances and equipment. Pots and pans are mounted to the wall. Each one has its own place, and its shape is outlined with a marker to make positioning easier. Q CROATIA AIRLINES

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Schwarzkopf Cro A Porter i Croatia Airlines spremni za Departure Cro A Porter, prvi domaći tjedan mode sa jasno postavljenim standardima predstavljanja autorske kolekcije domaćih dizajnera utemeljen je 2003. godine. Sa dvije sezone godišnje, ujedno je i projekt sa najdužom tradicijom u Hrvatskoj po navedenim standardima. Uveo je revolucionarne pomake u produkciji te približio hrvatsku modu svjetskim standardima. Pored predstavljanja već afirmiranih dizajnera poput Ivane Popović, I-Gle, Linee Exclusive, Xd Xenie Design, Mak, Matije Vujice lansirao je i afirmirao imena koja danas tvore domaću modnu scenu poput Amarie, Boudoir, Ivice Klarića, Borisa Pavlina, Hippy Gardena, Elfsa, Zigmana, Ivone Martinko, Tihomira Krznarića, Fjabe, Arilea, Ivana Ledenka, Madame Demode, Marine Design, Dioralop, Tamare Bombardelli i ostalih. Prepoznat od strane publike, medija, kupaca, posjetitelja, partnera, sponzora, sudionika i gospodarske scene, Cro A Porter je ostavio neizbrisiv trag na kulturu i gospodarstvu, medijskom svijetu Hrvatske, te je pozicionirao Zagreb na modnu kartu regije i Europe. Iako je u svojoj ideji i po sadržaju modni projekt, Cro A Porter je postao i daleko više od toga. Promovirajući hrvatski dizajn, kulturu i poduzetništvo, definirao je hrvatsku društvenu scenu, medijske standarde te udahnuo Zagrebu dašak svjetske metropole dva puta godišnje. Vodeća uloga Cro A Portera, glavnog lansiratelja modnih i produkcijskih trendova, rezultirala je popularizacijom domaćeg modnog dizajna te kreirala i druge projekte koji slijede njegove standarde.

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Viktor Drago, utemeljitelj i kreativni vođa projekta, s iskustvom u produkciji stečenim izvan granica Hrvatske i aktivnim sudjelovanjem na modnoj sceni u ulozi kreativnog direktora, stilista, fotografa te suradnika brojnih medija, aktivno producira Cro A Porter dajući mu svake sezone novi život, vizualni identitet te artističku i estetsku vrijednost. Uz pomoć suradnika, vrhunskih profesionalaca, uvijek svježih i novih ideja te angažiranje novih imena - mladih entuzijasta i kreativaca, Cro A Porter je nepresušna tvornica novih ideja i sadržaja. U susret novom izdanju najvažnijeg domaćeg modnog projekta Schwarzkopf Cro A Porter, koji okuplja najeminentniju listu domaćih dizajnera u svojim redovima, predstavljamo Vam SCHWARZKOPF CRO A PORTER DEPARTURE Posjetitelji naviknuti na jedinstveno modno i produkcijsko uzbuđenje ni ovoga puta neće ostati uskraćeni za vrhunski doživljaj! Po prvi puta za potrebe ovog projekta, u suradnji sa domaćom avio kompanijom CROATIA AIRLINES, oni koji će imati sreće ući će u prostor do sada nedostupan za javnost. Avionska pista postat će modna, a avionski hangar lokacija događanja, za koje će ulaz biti strogo limitiran brojem posjetitelja i kontroliran kao pri ulasku u carinsku zonu. Inspirirani putovanjem, letom i brisanjem granica, organizatori najavljuju možda najsoﬁsticiranije izdanje projekta do sada.

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the BroniÊ sisters

■ DIZAJN DESIGN

Sestre BroniÊ dizajniraju za velike i male The BroniÊ sisters make designs for adults and children

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Piše/By Dubravka PrpiÊ Znaor

glavnom je rijeË o kolekcionarskim predmetima koji nas podsjeÊaju na svijet odrastanja, nevinosti i vjeËne igre. Iako takva biÊa jednom nogom æive u djeËjem svijetu, njihov je proces nastajanja itekako zreo, stoga krenimo na Ëudesno putovanje… Meu dizajnericama u ovoj priËi ima i sestara: igrale su se kao male, a to na neki naËin Ëine i danas.

Andrija ZelmanoviÊ

Sestre BroniÊ − kolekcije za male i velike Blizanke Marijana i Josipa BroniÊ na hrvatskoj su modnoj sceni dugi niz godina poznate i po dizajnu odjeÊe, a lutke su nastale kao dio kolekcije za velike. − Rukopis je prepoznatljiv od samih poËetaka, naπe su lutke sliËno odjevene kao i klijentice − otkrivaju BroniÊke. − Pri radu koristimo se tradicijskim tehnikama poput tkanja, vezenja i pletenja, a jednaku paænju obraÊamo i tekstilu, koji je obvezno od prirodnih vlakana. Ta priËa nastavljena je i u Mouse house projektu, nizu unikatnih kuÊica od recikliranog kartona. Izvezene su uzicama, te nadograene pravim malim namjeπtajem,

Hrvatska dizajnerska scena u posljednjih se nekoliko godina intenzivno razvila u lutkarskom smjeru − autori ruËno izrauju mala neobiËna biÊa, spoj izmeu lutkica, Ëarobnjaka, vila i æivotinja, daju im imena, ekspresije, radnju, smisao i deﬁniran karakter. Dizajneri su to koji njeguju ljubav prema ruËnoj izradi i πivanju, recikliranim materijalima i prirodnom tkanju, a njihovim Êete radom poæeljeti ukrasiti policu, kamin, krevet ili djeËju sobu. Ili se njima Ëak poigrati! Over the past several years, the Croatian design scene has moved quite intensely in the direction of dolls − their designers make unusual small beings by hand, blending dolls, wizards, fairies and animals, giving them names, expressions, actions, meaning and distinct characters. These designers foster love for handicraft and sewing, recycled and natural materials, making you want to buy their works to decorate your shelf, mantelpiece, bed or children’s room. Or even play with them!

Mouse House projekt Marijane i Josipe BroniÊ/Marijana and Josipa BroniÊ’s project: Mouse House CROATIA AIRLINES

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Little Horse and Baby Beuys Iza brenda simpatiËnog imena takoer su dvije sestre − Mejra i Maja MujiËiÊ. Dizajnerski duo koji stvara objekte za igru, odijevanje i istraæivanje granica izmeu funkcionalnosti i umjetnosti tvore Mejra, multimedijalna umjetnica koja je

diplomirala na Likovnoj akademiji, i Maja, koja je nakon studija knjiæevnosti svoj rad usmjerila prema dizajnu i modi. − Glavna nam je inspiracija nepredvidljiva i bogata djeËja maπta i njihova æelja da prihvate i nadograde koncept igraËke u svemu πto prime u ruke. Igraju se svime, svaki predmet ima smisao, priËu, posebno mjesto u njihovu maπtovitom i inovativnom æivotu − kažu sestre MujiËiÊ. − Za njih je sve nadogradivo, moæe se kombinirati, æivi viπe od jedne sezone i uvijek se moæe nanovo ispriËati, koristiti...

Little Horse and Baby Beuys − zeËevi u zemlji Ëudesa/ rabbits in Wonderland

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Vanja Šolin

ma i izloæbama. Sudjelovale su na dogaanjima u Hrvatskoj, Sloveniji, Austriji, Italiji… Osim toga, bave se i kostimograﬁjom i produkt dizajnom, te su od samih poËetaka djelovanja dio hrvatske alternativne modne scene.

the BroniÊ sisters

Andrija ZelmanoviÊ

pa miπevi-lutke imaju svoje stolce, krevete, πtendere, ljestve, ogledala… Dakako, one se kroz svoj prostor kreÊu dobro stilizirane, stoga smo ih odjenule u minijaturne haljine i modne dodatke, koji ponekad tvore speciﬁËan senzacionalistiËki efekt. Naπa osnovna misao i ideja pri radu ovih lutaka jest ureenje interijera, a one funkcioniraju kao kolekcionarska igraËka za velike i male. Josipa i Marijana BroniÊ dizajnom tekstila bave se od devedesetih, pa su nakon diplome na Tekstilno-tehnoloπkom fakultetu poËele s revija-

Materijali su prirodni, poput pamuka, svile, vune i kaπmira, a naËin izrade tradicionalni hrvatski, ali i japanski, kojim su sestre oduπevljene. Gumbi koji krase njihove lutke i kreacije od porculana su ili unikatni, antikni. Little horse and baby beuys predmeti bili su dio brojnih izlaganja u Milanu, Parizu, Zagrebu, Dubrovniku, Bruxellesu, Beogradu…

Little Horse and Baby Beuys − kad lutke rastu zajedno s djecom/ dolls grow together with children

Vanja Šolin

ekspresiju, pozu, odjeÊu i modne dodatke. Ne ponavljam ih, svaka je lutka unikat, sve se proizvodi kod mene u atelieru. Sve su to prave umjetniËke kreacije − otkriva Jasmina KosanoviÊ. Inspiraciju pronalazi svuda oko sebe, ne samo u oboæavanju i divljenju prirodi, knjigama, glazbi… nego i strasti prema Ëudesnim biÊima koja æive u priËama, a æivot dobivaju njezinim kreacijama. No, istiËe, niπta od toga ne bi bilo moguÊe bez podrπke njezine obitelji, kojoj je veoma zahvalna što ostvaruje i æivi svoj san.

Little Horse and Baby Beuys lutkice koje postaju ukras za haljinu/ little dolls become costume jewellery

Extra/Ordinary Design Projekt vode Julia Cassim, Sanja BencetiÊ i Mirna Reinprecht, a rijeË je o seriji radionica inkluzivnog dizajna.

− Suradnjom πkolovanih dizajnera i osoba s teπkoÊama osmiπljavaju se proizvodi i komunikacije, koje omoguÊuju konkurentnost na træiπtu, te procesi proizvodnje prema speciﬁËnim moguÊnostima − otkriva Sanja BencetiÊ. − Partnerske organizacije URIHO − Zagreb, Udruga za promicanje inkluzije − Podruænica Zagreb, NEOS − Osijek i Zvono − BeliπÊe, upoznale su prednosti ukljuËivanja dizajna u poslovni proces, a izloæbe proizvoda donijele su πiroj zajednici informaciju o inkluzivnom dizajnu, kao i demonstraciju znaËenja dizajna kao alata konkurentnosti. Projekt je prezentiran na nekoliko izloæbi u zemlji i inozemstvu, te je dobitnik dviju nagrada. Temeljni ciljevi i metodologija radionica proizlaze iz radionica Design Challenge autorice

Vanja Šolin

Jasmina KosanoviÊ & Lutke Modna dizajnerica Jasmina KosanoviÊ svoje je najljepπe trenutke provodila kod bake na selu. − Stalno mi je priËala priËe o vilama, Ëarobnjacima i fantastiËnim biÊima − prisjeÊa se Jasmina − a u to je vrijeme poËela i moja fasciniranost lutkama. PoËela sam raditi lutke od papira, koje sam odijevala, bio je to moj prvi korak tog divnog putovanja u svijet otkrivanja, fantazije i umjetnosti. Tijekom odrastanja, divljenje lutkama nije prestajalo, pa je Jasmina nakon diplome i specijalizacije izrade kostima stala organizirati razne kreativne radionice, koje je osmislila u brojnim umjetniËkim prostorima, a tema je uvijek bila bliska svijetu lutaka: rijeË je bila o radu s djecom na projektima izrade kostima, kostimograﬁje, umjetniËkih kreacija… − Najviπe volim raditi s djecom i odraslima tako da otkrivaju svoj kreativni unutarnji svijet i potiËu razvijanje maπte. Sve to rezultiralo je time da sam poËela izraivati lutke, prva kreacija bio je drveni aneo. Danas svaka moja lutka ima ime: tu su Rosa, »umpa Lumpasi, Cici Micoji, Kapetan Bijeæo, Gospa od Cukra... Svaka ima karakter, lik, a sve to tumaËim i kroz izraz lica,

Gloopy Brand Gloopy serija je raznolikih predmeta iza kojega su SunËana VrtariÊ, lutkarica, i Lara GlaviÊ KonËar, graﬁËka i produkt dizajnerica. Gloopy pretvara svakodnevne, uobiËajene predmete u zanimljiv i razigran dizajn s osobnoπÊu, rabeÊi raznolike materijale i kontrastne vizualne elemente. − Gloopy nastoji u svakom predmetu sjediniti viπe funkcija, od korisnih kuÊanskih do zabavnih za djecu i cijelu obitelj − kaže Lara GlaviÊ KonËar. − Sve je poËelo u proljeÊe 2013., kad je Gloopy startao s prvom idejom, a to je ekoloπki uzgojena lavanda. Kolekcija Wardrobe Creatures prvi je ostvaren Gloopy projekt, Ëiji je cilj bio ormare i garderobe, kao uglavnom

Božidar Raof

Jasmina KosanoviÊ − lisice kao najbolje prijateljice/ foxes as best friends

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Jasmina KosanoviÊ veliku paænju pridaje detaljima na haljini Jasmina KosanoviÊ pays a lot of attention to detail on the dress

tamne i zaguπljive kutke, razveseliti neobiËnim malim stvorovima koji miriπu na lavandu. S magnetima za lakπe priËvrπÊivanje, likovi Wardrobe Creatures postaju standardni stanovnici vjeπalica i polica. Svaki lik ima svoje ime i svoju pjesmicu (koje je napisala Katarina –oriÊ, uËiteljica njemaËkog), tako mu dajuÊi osobnost i bliskost ljudima, pogotovo djeci, koja najviπe otkrivaju multifunkcionalnost, pretvarajuÊi ga u bliskog prijatelja, a zbog ugodnoga umirujuÊeg mirisa lavande, dragu igraËku uz koju se lakπe zaspi. Mirisne lutkice pakirane su u praktiËne papirnate vreÊicekutije s mat plastiﬁkacijom tako da πto duæe zadræavaju miris. Wardrobe Creatures danas ima tri kolekcije: Original tvore πiπmiπ zvan Schmischmisch, zmija Slinky, miπ Mischo, pauk Spike, æaba

Božidar Raof

Julije Cassim i All Inclusive Sarajevo autorice Nataπe PerkoviÊ. ZagrebaËka radionica prva je u procesu suradnje s dizajnerima ukljuËila i osobe s intelektualnim teπkoÊama, a osjeËka osobe koje se odvikavaju od ovisnosti − u meunarodnom okruæju, ovakav naËin suradnje nudi novu opciju odræivosti zaπtiÊenih radionica. Obje radionice pridonijele su razvoju metodologije i meunarodne mreæe suradnje. Osim nekoliko izloæbi u Hrvatskoj, izloæba proizvoda nastalih u sklopu projekta Extra Ordinary design (Jupi za Upi!, proizvodi URIHO) odræana je u Japanu, u Tokyu i Kyotu u listopadu i studenom 2011. godine, u organizaciji Inclusive Design Laboratory iz Tokija i Helen Hamlyn Centra. Cjelokupni projekt takoer je predstavljen na izloæbi Shared Innovation u Londonu u sijeËnju 2013. godine. Takvu suradnju priznala je πiroka i struËna javnost. Projekt je nagraen dvjema nagradama: nagradom na festivalu Dan D 2011. i nagradom za najbolji rad u kategoriji Koncept na bijenalnoj Izloæbi hrvatskog dizajna 1112 u MUO u rujnu − studenom 2012.

Božidar Raof

Jasmina KosanoviÊ − Crvenkapica i njezina maca/ Little Red Riding Hood and her kitten CROATIA AIRLINES

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Tsweta, guπter Sunny i sova Pero − ideja je bila da to budu stvorenja koja nitko ne æeli u svom ormaru. Druga je Morska (koju tvore zvijezda Ante, rak Roko, ribica Luce, hobotnica Kate, morski konjiÊ Toni i srdele Stipe, Mate i Jadranko). TreÊa je BoæiÊna, a tvore je Djedica, Angelina i »udni Boæo, a punjeni su lavandom, klinËiÊima i cimetom, pa mirisom podsjeÊaju na boæiÊne kolaËe. Kreativni tim branda Gloopy daljnjim istraæivanjima materijala povezuje likove u nove projekte. Tako nastaju lutke za kazaliπte sjena − Shadow puppets. Uz pomoÊ svjetiljke, djeca i roditelji oæivljavaju sjene likova ulazeÊi u Ëarobni svijet maπte i razvijajuÊi kreativnost kroz igru. Lutke izraene od bukove πperploËe, ostavljene u svojoj prirodnoj formi, omoguÊuju oslikavanja povrπine i tako stvaranje jedinstvenog karaktera igraËke. Shadow puppets sad imaju dvije kolekcije: Original koju tvore πiπmiπ zvan Schmischmisch, zmija Slinky, miπ Mischo, pauk Spike i æaba Tsweta, i Morsku, koju tvore zvijezda Ante, rak Roko, ribica Luce, hobotnica Kate i morski konjiÊ Toni.

Gloopy Angeline

Extra Ordinary Design − Jupi tulipani/Jupi tulips

Danas zadnji, ali sigurno ne i posljednji projekt branda Gloopy, jesu Hothothot pot trivet podmetaËi za vruÊe lonce od πperploËe. PriËa je zasnovana na drugaËijem pristupu dizajnu i ruËnoj radinosti (zbog razliËitih profesija koje ju rade), modernim uzorcima, jednostavnim i Ëistim oblicima. Kako je nastalo simpatiËno ime? − Nakon iscrpne brainstorming kave, kada smo smišljale svakakva imena, no nekako niπta nije potpuno odgovaralo, sve nam je bilo glupo. OdluËile smo da se neÊemo viπe muËiti jer nam je rjeπenje bilo pred nosom − glupi, a na engleskome napisali smo po Paklenoj naranËi, jer u Nadsat slengu to znaËi da netko pametan kaæe neπto glupo, i to nam se svidjelo − otkriva Lara GlaviÊ KonËar. Q

ost are collector’s items which remind us of childhood, innocence and never-ending play. Although these creatures are deeply immersed in the children’s world, the process of their creation 140

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is quite mature. Let us embark on a fascinating journey… Amongst the designers in this story, there are even a couple of sisters who played together as children and continue to play to this very day. The BroniÊ sisters − collections for children and grownups The twin sisters Marijana and Josipa BroniÊ have been on the Croatian fashion scene for a number of years. They are best known for their fashion design and the dolls they make are part of their collections for grownups. − Our signature has been recognisable since day one; the dolls wear the same clothes as our clients, say the BroniÊ sisters. − In our work, we use traditional techniques such as weaving, embroidery and knitting, and we pay just as much attention to textiles made of natural ﬁbres. The story continues with our Mouse House project, featuring a string of unique houses made of recycled cardboard. They are decorated with string pieces and finished with real miniature furniture so our doll mice have their chairs, beds, ﬂower stands, ladders, mirrors… Obviously, they need to move through their space with style, which is why we dress them in

miniature dresses and use fashion accessories which sometimes provoke a speciﬁc sensationalist effect. Our guiding principle and the idea behind the dolls was initially interior design, while the dolls were meant to function as collectable toys for both children and grownups. Josipa and Marijana BroniÊ have been involved in textile design since the 1990s. They started exhibiting and participating in fashion shows after having graduated from the Faculty of Textile Technology of the University of Zagreb. They

Gloopy Djedice − boæiÊna kolekcija Gloopy Grandpas − Christmas collection

Glooy Boæo dolazi u tri varijante i stiæe u vijeme BoæiÊa Glooy Boæo comes in three versions around Christmas

have partook in events in Croatia, Slovenia, Austria and Italy, and are also active in theatre costume design and product design. Since the very beginning of their careers, they have been part of the Croatian alternative fashion scene. Little Horse and Baby Beuys The two names behind the brand with the likeable and catchy name are again two sisters: Mejra and Maja MujiËiÊ. The two create clothes and playing objects by exploring the boundaries between functionality and art. Mejra is a multimedia artist who graduated from the Academy of Fine Arts, while Maja studied literature having made design and fashion her occupation once she completed her studies. − We draw inspiration from children’s imagination which is unpredictable and rich, and children’s desire to accept and build the concept

of toy with everything that comes into their hands. They can and do play with everything; every object has a meaning, a story, a special place in their imaginative and innovative life, say the MujiËiÊ sisters. − For them, everything can be built on, combined, everything has a lifespan longer than just a single season and can always be retold and reused… The materials they use are natural, such as cotton, silk, wool and cashmere; the manner of production is traditional Croatian, but also Japanese, with which the sisters are delighted. The buttons decorating both their dolls and porcelain creations are either unique or antique. The Little Horse and Baby Beuys objects have been exhibited in Milan, Paris, Zagreb, Dubrovnik, Brussels and Belgrade. Jasmina KosanoviÊ & Dolls Fashion designer Jasmina KosanoviÊ spent the best moments of her childhood in the country with her grandmother. − She kept telling me stories about fairies, wizards and fantastic creatures − remembers Jasmina − and it was then that I became fascinated with dolls. I started crafting paper dolls; I dressed them and that was the ﬁrst step of my fascinating journey into the world of discovery, fantasy and art. As she was growing up, her fascination with dolls never faltered. After graduation and specialisation in costume design, Jasmina started organising, staging and holding different

creative workshops at different locations, the themes of which have always been close to the world of dolls: she has worked with children on costume making projects, costimography and artistic creations. − The way I like to work with both children and adults is to help them discover their creative inner world and engage their imagination. To help me with the process, I started making dolls. My first creation was a wooden angel. Today, each of my dolls has a name: Rosa, »umpa Lumpasi, Cici Micoji, Kapetan Bijeæo, Gospa od Cukra... Each has a character, a distinct face, which I interpret through their facial expressions, posture, clothes and accessories. I never repeat any of them; each doll is unique, I make them all in my atelier as veritable artistic creations, says Jasmina KosanoviÊ. She finds inspiration in everything around her, not only in her love and admiration of nature, books, music, but also her passion for fairy-tale creatures who live in stories, and become alive in her creations. She points out that none of it would be possible without the support of her family to whom she is extremely grateful for helping her live her dream. Extra/Ordinary Design The Extra/Ordinary Design project, headed by Julija Cassim, Sanja BencetiÊ and Mirna Reinprecht, comprises a series of inclusive design workshops. − Collaboration between trained designers and disabled persons results in the design of products and communications facilitating market competitiveness, and the creation of ability-specific production processes, says Sanja BencetiÊ. − The project’s partner organisations URIHO from Zagreb, the Association for Promoting Inclusion from Zagreb, NEOS from Osijek and Zvono from BeliπÊe have recognised the advantages of including design in their production processes, while the staging of design exhibitions provides the community with information on inclusive design, as well as a demonstration of the significance of design as a tool of competitiveness. The project has been presented at several exhibitions in both Croatia and abroad, and has been awarded twice. Extra Ordinary Design Jupi Æiraha

Extra Ordinary Design Ijuju lutka Extra Ordinary Design Ijuju doll

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The main objectives and principles of the workshops originate from the Design Challenge workshop by Julija Cassim and All Inclusive Sarajevo by Nataπa PerkoviÊ. The Zagreb workshop is the first such collaboration project with designers which has involved persons with mental disabilities, while the Osijek workshop has included recovering addicts − in an international environment, this type of collaboration offers a new prospect for the sustainability of inclusive workshops. Both workshops have contributed to the development of a methodology and an international collaboration network. In addition to several exhibitions mounted in Croatia, exhibitions of Extra/Ordinary Design products (Jupi za Upi!, URIHO products) have also been held in Tokyo and Kyoto in Japan during October and November 2011 respectively, in the organisation of the Inclusive Design Laboratory from Tokyo and Helen Hamlyn Centre. The entire project was also presented at the Shared Innovation exhibition in London in January 2013. Both the public at large and the profession have recognised this type of collaboration. The project has received two awards − one at the D-Day Festival in 2011 and the other for best work in the Concept Category at the biennial 1112 Croatian Design Exhibition at the Museum of Arts and Crafts in Zagreb in November 2012. Gloopy The Gloopy brand is a series of different objects produced by SunËana VrtariÊ, a doll maker, and Lara GlaviÊ KonËar, a graphic and product designer. Gloopy transforms everyday ordinary objects into interesting and playful design with a personality, using all sorts of materials and contrasting visual elements. Gloopy tries to fuse several functions in every object, ranging from useful household utensils to entertaining objects for children and the whole family, says Lara GlaviÊ KonËar. − Everything started in the spring of 2013 when Gloopy launched its first idea − organically grown lavender. The Wardrobe Creatures collection was the first Gloopy project aimed at bringing joy to wardrobes and cupboards, as well as all other dark and stuffy corners, with quirky little creatures exuding the scent of lavender. Equipped with magnets, Wardrobe Creatures become standard dwellers of hangers and shelves. Each character has a name and a verse (written by Katarina –oriÊ, a German language teacher). By giving them character and personality, we bring them closer to people, particularly children who are best at discovering their multifunctionality, 142

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thus transforming them into close friends. At the same time, the soothing lavender smell makes them lovable toys that help them fall asleep. The scented dolls are packaged in practical paper bags or plasticised boxes to help retain the scent for as long as possible. The Wardrobe Creatures come in three different collections: the Original collection includes Schmischmisch the bat, Slinky the snake, Mischo the mouse, Spike the spider, Tsweta the frog, Sunny the lizard and Pero the owl. The underlying idea was to put creatures that nobody wants in people’s cupboards. The second is the Sea Collection (comprising Ante the starfish, Roko the sea crab, Luce the little fish, Kate the octopus, Toni the seahorse and Stipe, Mate and Jadranko the sardines). The third collection is the Christmas collection including the Grandpa, Angelina and »udni Boæo. They are filled with lavender, cloves and cinnamon which invoke the smell of Christmas cookies. The creative team of the Gloopy brand continues to research various materials and interlink their characters in new projects. As a result, Shadow Puppets have been created. With the help of a lamp, children and parents give life to the shadows of the characters; they enter the enchanting world of imagination and develop creativity through play. The puppets crafted from beech plywood, left in its natural form, are easily painted over to give each puppet a unique character. The Shadow Puppets now come in two collections: the Original collection includes Schmischmisch the bat, Slinky the snake, Mischo the mouse, Spike the spider and Tsweta the frog, while the Sea collection includes Ante the starfish, Roko the crab, Luce the fish, Kate the octopus and Toni the seahorse. The latest Gloopy brand project are the Hothothot Pot Trivet hotpot coasters made of plywood. The story is based on a different approach to design and handicraft (owing to the different professions of the people involved in their manufacture), modern patterns and simple and clean forms. And how did they come up with the amusing name? − After a long brainstorming session over cups of coffee, during which all sorts of names were mentioned, but none fitted the purpose, everything seemed stupid (gloopo). We decided to stop agonising over the name, because the solution was there, right before our noses − glupi (stupid), and so we anglicised the word following the example from Clockwork Orange, because in Nadsat slang this means that somebody smart says something stupid, and we liked that, says Lara GlaviÊ KonËar. Q

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tkrijte prednosti turistiËke regije Kvarner, destinacije jedinstvenog spoja primorja, otoka i gorja.

TuristiËka zajednica Kvarnera radi na promicanju proizvoda i novih turistiËkih doæivljaja, odnosno na brendiranju motiva dolaska na Kvarner. Najprije se ocjenjuje po propisanim kriterijima, a zatim se dodjeljuje oznaka kvalitete, standarda i prepoznatljivosti Kvarnera. Kvarner Family − znak je to provjerene turistiËke kvalitete, standarda i prepoznatljivosti brendiranih apartmana, kuÊa za odmor, kampova i soba iznajmljivaËa obiteljskog smjeπtaja na Kvarneru Kvarner Gourmet & Kvarner Food − potraæite oznake kvalitete na proËeljima najboljih restorana i konoba na Kvarneru, koji nude autohtona jela, destinaciji dobre hrane i vina, zdravog æivota i blagotvorne klime Kvarner Health & Wellbeing - brendiranje regije Kvarner kao regije zdravlja s dugom tradicijom i promidžba ukupne ponude razliËitih medicinskih ustanova Kvarner Outdoor − oblik aktivnog odmora koji veÊ sada æivi, bilo kao dio sportsko-rekreacijskih aktivnosti lokalnog stanovniπtva i posjetitelja, ili kao dio organizirane turistiËke ponude. Razni oblici aktivnog odmora organiziraju se na razliËite naËine, najviπe preko sportskih klubova odnosno udruga, manjim dijelom preko specijaliziranih turistiËkih agencija i specijaliziranih gospodarskih subjekata. Kvarner Family Sobe, apartmani, kuÊe za odmor, mali kampovi i penzioni u domaÊinstvu, u autentiËnom ozraËju æivota malih slikovitih mjesta, gradiÊa i sela Kvarnera − tvore posebnu ponudu poznatu kao obiteljski smjeπtaj. Obiteljski 144

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smjeπtaj Kvarnera moæe se pohvaliti 170 godina dugom tradicijom ugoπÊavanja manirom dobrog domaÊina, pa ta vrsta smjeπtaja upravo na podruËju Kvarnera ima i najvjernije goste. Danas k istim obiteljima Ëesto dolaze unuci pa i praunuci prvih gostiju. U obiteljskom smjeπtaju Kvarnera sklopljena su brojna dugotrajna prijateljstva, mnogi su gosti prihvatili æivotni stil svojih domaÊina, upoznali prirodne i kulturne vrijednosti, predali se uæitku autohtone gastronomske i enoloπke ponude. Taj je æivotni stil postao glavni motiv dolaska starih gostiju i njihovih prijatelja na Kvarner, k domaÊinu, u istu obitelj, i tako je nastao ovaj jedinstveni pojam turistiËke ponude pod nazivom Kvarner Family. Obitelj Kvarner Family domaÊinstava iz dana u dan sve viπe raste i prisutna je u svim dijelovima naπe regije. Dobro domaÊinstvo Kvarner Family kvalitete razumijeva ugodan smjeπtaj s dodatnim sadræajima koje su poæeljeli sami gosti. Gosti u knjizi dojmova upisuju dojmove i preporuke koje domaÊini ali i buduÊi gosti Ëitaju i prema njima planiraju svoje aktivnosti. DomaÊini stoje na raspolaganju gostima za sva pitanja, savjete i usluge koje gost na odmoru moæe trebati. Kao πto je Kvarner (Quaternarius) jedinstveno podruËje koje omoguËuje nevjerojatne doæivljaje, jer to je toËka u kojoj se spajaju sve Ëetiri strane svijeta: planine i mediteranski otoci, istoËna i zapadna civilizacija, s bogatom i raznolikom ponudom gastronomije, prirodnih i kulturnih atrakcija, s mnoπtvom razliËitih mikrosvijetova u planinskom, primorskom i otoËnom, ruralnom i urbanom okruæju; tako i odmor u Kvarner Family smjeπtaju omoguÊuje jedinstveni, pravi doæivljaj izvorne kulture æivljenja domicilnog stanovniπtva.

Kvarner Family - Pet Friendly Nazivom Pet Friendly, Dog Friendly i oznakama gostoljubivosti za kuÊne ljubimce oznaËeni su pruæatelji usluga koji su specijalizirani za domaÊinstvo ljubimcima i njihovim vlasnicima. To su, u prvome redu, smjeπtaj, i to Kvarner Family kvalitete s dodatnom Pet Friendly ponudom, zatim restorani Kvarner Gourmet i Kvarner Food kvalitete s posebnim mjestom na terasi za vaπeg Ëetveronoænog prijatelja, plaæe na kojima je dopuπteno kupanje psima, trgovine s Ëekaonicama za pse, veterinarske ambulante, hoteli za pse, saloni za uljepπavanje pasa, trgovine za kuÊne ljubimce i sve ostale usluge koje mogu zatrebati vaπem ljubimcu u vrijeme godiπnjeg odmora na Kvarneru. www.kvarnerfamily.hr

iscover the advantages of the Kvarner tourist region, a destination of a unique coastline-island-mountain blend.

The Kvarner County Tourism Ofﬁce is currently working on the promotion of products and new tourist experiences in general, and the branding of what motivates tourists to choose Kvarner as their destination in particular. Evaluation is ﬁrst done according to prescribed criteria, after which labels of quality, standards and the recognisability of Kvarner as a destination are awarded: Kvarner Family − a sign of assured tourist quality, standard and the recognisability of branded apartments, holiday homes, campsites and rooms rented for family accommodation in Kvarner. Kvarner Gourmet & Kvarner Food − a label of quality at the entrance of the best restaurants and taverns in Kvarner offering local

dishes, destinations of fine wining and dining, healthy lifestyle and a beneficial climate. Kvarner Health & Wellbeing − the branding of Kvarner as a region of health with a longstanding tradition and promoting the offer of various medical institutions. Kvarner Outdoor − forms of active vacation already on offer either as part of sports and recreational activities by the locals and visitors or as part of organised tourism. Different forms of active vacation are organised in different ways, mostly through sports clubs and associations, and to a lesser extent through specialised travel agencies and specialised businesses. Kvarner Family Private accommodation in the form of rooms, apartments, holiday homes, and small privately owned campsites and guesthouses, all located in the surroundings of quaint small towns and villages in the Kvarner region, make up a special part of the local tourism off er. Kvarner family accommodation boasts a tradition of 170 years of hospitality, which is why this type of accommodation has the most loyal guests in Kvarner. Today, some households continue to welcome the grandchildren or even great-grandchildren of the first guests. Private accommodation in Kvarner has given birth to many lasting friendships, and many of

the guests have adopted the lifestyle of their hosts, become acquainted with the natural and cultural treasures of the area, and grown to love the local culinary specialities and wines. Over time, this lifestyle has become the main motivation for regular guests and their friends to visit Kvarner and always stay with the same family. This is how this special segment of the Kvarner tourist offer, known as Kvarner Family, came into being. Every day, Kvarner Family encompasses more and more households from all over the region. A household with the Kvarner Family label complies with high quality standards that include comfortable accommodation and additional services and facilities as required by the guest. In the guestbook, guests write their impressions and recommendations, which are then read not only by their hosts, but also by future guests, who can use this information to plan their activities. Hosts are at the disposal of their guests for any questions, advice and services they might need during their holiday. Kvarner (Quaternarius) is a unique region that offers the opportunity for an amazing experience, as it is the meeting point of the four cardinal points, the mountains and Mediterranean islands, and Eastern and Western civilisation. Moreover, it is a region with a rich and varied culinary tradition, a wide range of natural and

cultural attractions, and a variety of different areas with mountainous, littoral, island, rural and urban surroundings. In the same way, a holiday in Kvarner Family accommodation provides a unique and authentic experience of the way of life of the local people. Kvarner Family - Pet Friendly The labels Pet Friendly, Dog Friendly and Pets Welcome indicate services and service providers that meet the needs of pets and their owners. First of all, this refers to accommodation, which in addition to the Kvarner Family quality label now also includes the Pet Friendly section. Apart from accommodation, this initiative also includes restaurants marked with Kvarner Gourmet and Kvarner Food quality labels that have a special place on their terraces for your four-legged friend, dog beaches, shops with waiting rooms for dogs, veterinary clinics, dog hotels, beauty salons for dogs, pet shops and any other services that your pet might need during your stay in Kvarner. www.kvarnerfamily.hr

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www.dalmatia.hr info@dalmatia.hr Prilaz braÄ&#x2021;e Kaliterna 10/1, 21000 Split, Croatia tel/fax: +385 (0)21 490 032, 490 033, 490 036

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Piše/By Marin TomiËiÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Tomislav MuiÊ

atjeËaj Balon Stellar Stratosfera poËeo je u studenom 2013., a pobjednici su proglaπeni 2. srpnja ove godine. Neproﬁtna udruga Tim Stellar osmislila je i provela natjeËaj za srednjoπkolce, koji su podræali mnogi sponzori, pa tako i Croatia Airlines − dva je tima, sudionika natjeËaja, nagradio opservacijskim letovima na svojim domaÊim linijama. Ideja o natjeËaju rodila se u Londonu, gdje su se sastali najvaæniji Ëlanovi Google Lunar XPRIZE tima Stellar. Team Stellar jedan je od 18 meunarodnih timova koji se natjeËu za 30,000.000 dolara vrijedne nagrade, a okuplja struËnjake s Ëetiri kontinenta, koji surauju kako bi ostvarili cilj natjecanja: poslati robotsko vozilo na Mjesec. To robotsko vozilo treba na Mjesecu prijeÊi udaljenost od najmanje 500 metara i poslati video HD kvalitete natrag na Zemlju. PoËetna zamisao bila je napraviti jednostavan natjeËaj za srednjoπkolce u Hrvatskoj, no kako se sve viπe ljudi ukljuËivalo u projekt, natjeËaj je poprimao sve ozbiljnije obrise. Dobivena je potpora Ministarstva znanosti, obrazovanja i sporta, pridruæili su se i prvi sponzori, te je odluËeno da se visoke novËane nagrade dodijele izravno uËenicima, jer æelja je bila pokazati im da se znanje i rad isplate. Odaziv srednjoπkolaca nadmaπio je i najoptimistiËnija predvianja organizatora, udruge Tim Stellar. Na natjeËaj se prijavio Ëak 21 tim s gotovo 130 Ëlanova iz cijele Hrvatske. Zaπto je odaziv bio tako velik objaπnjava jedan od 150

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natjecatelja, voditelj tima Prism Spectrum iz MetkoviÊa, Josip ToπiÊ: − Rijetko u svojem okruæju imamo priliku pokazati svoje kreativne sposobnosti na naËin koji nam pruæa Tim Stellar. ©to se tiËe oËekivanja, sigurni smo u to da Êemo se zabaviti tijekom rada na projektu te da Êe nam udruga biti na usluzi cijelo vrijeme, πto je vrlo velika stvar s obzirom na to da nam sigurno lansiranje i pronalazak malo tko moæe obeÊati. Mislimo da veÊ i ideja ispitivanja akustike u viπim slojevima atmosfere ima potencijala − originalna je, zanimljiva i izvediva, πto je za projekt vrlo bitno. Naime svjesni smo da Êemo se morati suoËiti s velikom konkurencijom radova iz cijele dræave. InaËe, tim Prism Spectrum iz MetkoviÊa zauzeo je 5. mjesto u konaËnom poretku, te je jedan od timova što ga je nagradio Croatia Airlines, opservacijskim letovima koji ukljuËuju i kratki posjet pilotskoj kabini. Uzbudljiv let i jedno nezaboravno iskustvo bili su pred srednjoπkolcima s juga Hrvatske, kao zasluæena nagrada za njihov rad i znanje. Balon Stellar Stratosfera natjeËaj je kojemu je cilj bio da srednjoπkolci oforme timove do πest Ëlanova, od kojih dva Ëlana ne moraju biti srednjoπkolci, te osmisle i izrade eksperimente koje je Tim Stellar posebnim balonima poslao u stratosferu, na viπe od 30 kilometara visine. Kada su baloni, odnosno njihov teret, pali na zemlju, Tim Stellar pronaπao ih je i vratio timovima, kako bi mogli analizirati podatke koje

su njihovi eksperimenti prikupili u stratosferi. Timovi su tada na temelju hipoteze koju su prije postavili i podataka koje su njihovi eksperimenti prikupili tijekom leta u stratosferi, napisali zavrπne radove. StruËna komisija pregledala je zavrπne radove i proglasila najbolje timove. Najbolja tri tima nagraena su visokim novËanim nagradama. Prvoplasirani tim Gravity iz Kutine nagraen je s 30.000 kuna i prijenosnim raËunalima, drugoplasirani tim nagraen je s 20.000 kuna, a treÊe mjesto nosilo je nagradu u iznosu od 10.000 kuna. Nisu samo najbolja tri tima nagraena, svaki tim koji je sudjelovao dobio je neku nagradu od sponzora natjeËaja. Vrijednim je nagradama udruga Tim Stellar nastojala obuhvatiti πto veÊi broj timova i natjecatelja ovog natjeËaja koji se odvio prvi put. U tome se uspjelo, uz veliku pomoÊ i razumijevanje sponzora koji su, poput samih natjecatelja, prepoznali vrijednost ovog projekta. Kreativnost koju su pokazali timovi pri izradi eksperimenata iznenadila je mnoge struËnjake. S obzirom na to da su ﬁnancijska sredstva za izradu eksperimenta morali pronaÊi sami, timovi su, uglavnom uz male proraËune, osmislili zanimljiva i inovativna rjeπenja koja su zahtijevala mnogo promiπljanja i improvizacije. Kakve su sve teπkoÊe timovi morali prevladati da bi njihov projekt bio uspjeπan? Jedno od najvaænijih pravila natjeËaja bilo je da ukupna teæina eksperimenta ne smije prelaziti 150 grama, eksperimenti su morali izdræati velike

razlike u temperaturi, tlaku i sve druge izazove koje pruæa okruæje na rubu svemira. Osim toga, kuÊiπte eksperimenta moralo je izdræati pad iz stratosfere brzinom do 10 m/s i zaπtititi osjetljive ureaje u sebi. Izazovi su bili veliki, ali æelja timova da ih prevladaju i pobijede u ovom natjeËaju bila je joπ i veÊa. Potkraj travnja eksperimenti su lansirani u stratosferu, a operaciju lansiranja i potrage za balonima vodio je Australac Robert Brand, veteran svemirskih misija Apollo, koji sa svojim dvanaestogodiπnjim sinom Jasonom dræi rekord u broju uspjeπno lansiranih i pronaenih stratosferskih balona. Robert Brand bio je struËnjak za komunikacije, koji je pomogao da do Zemlje dou prve rijeËi izgovorene na Mjesecu, a sada sudjeluje u novom pohodu na Mjesec kao Ëlan Google Lunar XPRIZE Teama Stellar. ©to su u stratosferi istraæivali sudionici natjeËaja Balon Stellar Stratosfera i kakva je bila raznolikost eksperimenata, najbolje pokazuju primjeri pobjedniËkih timova. Tim Gravity iz TehniËke πkole Kutina, u kojemu su profesor Marko Marinπek te dvojica uËenika, Josip IviËek i Kristijan Veina, mjerio je utjecaj tlaka na vreliπte vode. Taj eksperiment donio im je pobjedu u natjeËaju, visoku novËanu nagradu i prijenosna raËunala. Drugoplasirani tim Space Jet, iz iste πkole kao i pobjedniËki tim, mjerio je viskoznost aviokerozina JET A-1 na ekstremnim visinama, a tim iz Gimnazije Bjelovar, Bjelovar Stellar Laboratory, zanimalo je kakav je utjecaj kozmiËkog zraËenja na tvari i ureaje. Osim πto su morali osmisliti i izraditi eksperimente, timovi su odræavali svoje stranice na druπtvenoj mreæi Google+, te su morali snimiti videouradak u trajanju od 3 do 5 minuta. Na

svojim stranicama i u zavrπnom videu opisivali su tijek rada na projektu, svoje uspjehe i neuspjehe i tako uËili kako komunicirati svoj projekt u javnost. Komunikacija s javnoπÊu preko novih medija bio je jedan od elemenata koji je ulazio u ukupnu ocjenu projekata. StruËna komisija koja je ocijenila zavrπne radove timova radila je na aplikaciji razvijenoj upravo za tu prigodu. »lanovi komisije mogli su vidjeti radove svih timova, ali nisu mogli vidjeti ocjene drugih sudaca, πto je pridonijelo neovisnom ocjenjivanju svakoga pojedinog Ëlana komisije. SveËana dodjela nagrada najboljim timovima ovogodiπnjeg natjeËaja Balon Stellar Stratosfera organizirana je u velikoj auli Nacionalne i sveuËiliπne knjiænice u Zagrebu, te je prvi natjeËaj tako zavrπen. S obzirom na veliko zanimanje uËenika i potrebu za izvaninstitucionalnim oblicima edukacije, veÊ ove jeseni bit Êe pokrenut novi natjeËaj Balon Stellar Stratosfera, a zbog zanimanja iskazanoga iz drugih zemalja, mogao bi se natjeËaj internacionalizirati veÊ tijekom 2015. godine. Q

he competition Balon Stellar Stratosfera (Balloon Stellar Stratosphere) started in November 2013, and the winners were announced on 2 July this year. The Tim Stellar (Team Stellar) non-profit association conceived and carried out the secondary school students competition, that was supported by numerous sponsors, among which Croatia Airlines, which awarded two teams, participants in the competition, with observation flights on its domestic routes. The idea about the competition arose in London, where the most significant Google Lunar XPRIZE Stellar team members met.

Team Stellar is one of 18 international teams that compete for 30 million dollar worth prizes. Team Stellar gathers experts from four continents, which cooperate on realizing the goal of the competition: sending a robot vehicle to the Moon. That robot vehicle should travel the distance of at least 500 meters on the Moon and send an HD quality video back to the Earth. The initial idea was to make a simple competition for secondary school students in Croatia, but, as more and more people were joining the project, the competition took more serious shape. The support from the Ministry of Science, Education and Sport was received, the ﬁrst sponsors joined in too, and it was decided to award big monetary awards directly to students, because the wish was to show that knowledge and work pay off. The response of the secondary school students exceeded the most optimistic anticipations of the organizers, the Tim Stellar association. As many as 21 teams applied for the competition, with almost 130 members from all over Croatia. Why the response was so big is explained by one of the competitors, the leader of the Prism Spectrum team from MetkoviÊ, Josip ToπiÊ: − We rarely have an opportunity to show our creative abilities in our surroundings in the way that is given to us by Tim Stellar. As for the expectations, we are sure that we will have fun while working on the project, and that the association will be at our service all the time, which is a very big deal since hardly anyone can promise us safe launching and ﬁnding (of the experiment). We believe that the very idea of testing the acoustics in higher strata of the atmosphere has a potential because it is original, interesting and feasible, which is very important for the project because we are CROATIA AIRLINES

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aware that we have to face great competition of works from the whole state. Otherwise, the Prism Spectrum team from MetkoviÊ took the 5th place in the final order, and is one of the teams awarded exactly by Croatia Airlines, by observation flights that include a short visit to the cockpit. An exciting flight and unforgettable experience lies before the secondary school students from the south of Croatia, as a deserved reward for their work and knowledge. Balon Stellar Stratosfera is a competition the goal of which was for secondary school students to form teams of six members, two of which did not have to be secondary school students, and to devise and prepare the experiments which Tim Stellar sent by balloons to the stratosphere, to the altitude of over 30 kilometers. When the balloons, i.e. their load, fell to the ground, Tim Stellar found them and returned them to teams, so that they could analyze the data gathered by their experiments in the stratosphere. Then the teams prepared the final papers based on the hypothesis the had set earlier, and the data collected by their experiments during the flight in the stratosphere. The final papers were checked and the best teams were announced by a professional commission. Three best teams were awarded big monetary awards. The first-placed team, Gravity from 152

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Kutina, was awarded 30,000 kuna and laptops, the second-placed team was awarded 20,000 kuna, while the third place received the award amounting to 10,000 kuna. There were not only three teams rewarded, every team that participated won some award from the competition sponsors. The Tim Stellar association endeavoured to cover by valuable awards the greatest possible number of teams and participants in this competition, that was held for the first time. They succeeded in that, with great assistance and understanding of sponsors which, like the competitors themselves. recognized the value of this project. Creativity manifested by the teams in preparation of the experiments surprised many experts. Since they had to find the financial funds for preparing the experiments themselves, teams have devised interesting and innovative solutions, which demanded a lot of consideration and improvisation, mostly with small budgets. What difficulties did the teams have to overcome for their projects to be successful? One of the most important rules of the competition was that the total weight of the experiment must not exceed 150 grams, the experiments had to withstand big variations in temperature, pressure, and all the other challenges brought by the environment at the very edge of the universe. Besides, the casing of the experiment had to withstand the drop from the stratosphere at the speed of up to 10m/s and protect the sensitive devices inside it. Challenges were big, but the desire of the teams to overcome them and win in this competition was even bigger. By the end of April, the experiments were launched into the stratosphere, with the operation of launching and searching for the balloons led by the Australian Robert Brand, a veteran

of Apollo space missions, which, together with his twelve-year son Jason, holds the record in the number of successfully launched and found stratospheric balloons. Robert Brand was a communication expert which helped the first words spoken on the Moon to reach the Earth, and now he participates in the new journey to the Moon as a member of the Google Lunar XPRIZE Team Stellar. What did the Balon Stellar Stratosfera participants research in the stratosphere, and how diverse the experiments were, is best shown by the examples of the winning teams. Tim Gravity from the Technical School in Kutina, consisting of a teacher, Marko Marinπek, and two students, Josip IviËek and Kristijan Vein, was measuring the effect of pressure on the boiling point of water. That experiment brought them the victory in the competition, a big monetary award and laptops. The second-placed Space Jet team, from the same school as the winning team, was measuring the viscosity of avio-kerosene JET A-1 at extreme altitudes, while the team from the Bjelovar Grammar School, Bjelovar Stellar Laboratory, wanted to know what is the effect of cosmic radiation on substances and devices. Apart from having to devise and prepare the experiments, the teams were maintaining their websites at the Google+ social network, and they had to record a video with the duration from 3 to 5 minutes. At their websites and in the final video, they described the course of their work on the project, their successes and failures, whereby they learned how to communicate their project to the public. Communication with the public by means of new media was one of the elements that was included in the overall appraisal of the projects. The professional commission which appraised the final papers of teams operated in the application developed exactly for that purpose. Commission members could see the papers of all the teams, but they could not see the appraisals of other judges, which resulted in independent judging on part of each particular commission member. The ceremony of awarding the best teams of this year’s Balon Stellar Stratosfera competition was organized in the Great Hall of the National and University Library in Zagreb, which concluded the first competition. With respect to big interest of students and the need for extra-institutional forms of education, a new Balon Stellar Stratosfera competition will be initiated already this autumn, and exhibited interest from other countries could make the competition international already during 2015. Q

www.panorama-zagreb.com www.hupzagreb.com

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2013: Luftaufnahme

SERVICES AT VIENNA AIRPORT FUN FOR KIDS AT VIENNA AIRPORT Airline travel can be even more convenient and comfortable thanks to useful services offered at the airport. Vienna Airport offers new service options, especially for children and families. The airport provides separate family security lanes and a children’s adventure area at Terminal 3. At the Family Fun Gate, children can enjoy a funny world of experience with slides, a climbing frame, labyrinth and much more. They can entertain themselves in this specially designated area with toys and colorful leather cubes they can stack up. A diaper changing station has been set up for the youngest children and a seating area is available for parents. The fun area for kids is open around the clock, and can be used free of charge. The Family Fun Gate is located near the F Gates at Terminal 3.

FREE WLAN Many other airport services ensure pleasant travel comfort. For example, Vienna Airport offers free WLAN in all terminal areas without any time limitation and easy to access with no need to register. Travelers can conveniently surf in the Internet with their smart phones or laptops. The Vienna Airport app ensures that you have the latest information on your personal flight itinerary, provides you with latest shopping offers and other relevant airport information. Vienna Airport has also installed more than 20 new information monitors so that flight information is highly visible for all passengers at the airport. The information displays are easy to identify thanks to a new arrangement of the screens. The latest information is also available at the baggage claim areas. For all flights handled by Vienna Airport, pas-

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sengers can see on the monitors how fast their suitcases appear at the carousels. More information for this services please ﬁnd at www.viennaairport.com.

NEW CULINARY OFFERING Vienna Airport is offering travelers a wide range of culinary options. Recently the restaurants Zugvogel at the Plaza area in Terminal 2 and Rustichelli Mangione at the D Gates opened. They offer light meals and snacks besides many other culinary specialties. The offering ranges from breakfast variations to a great variety of snacks and sandwiches with salmon, mozzarella, Milan salami, prosciutto, rocket salad or turkey ham. Of course you can enjoy the classic Austrian and international cuisine such as Wiener Schnitzel, fried chicken, Sacher sausages or goulash soup at the Zugvogel at the Plaza in Terminal 2.

THE BEST FROM AUSTRIA AND THE WHOLE WORLD The modernization of the terminal area Pier West will be opened by the end of this year. In the future, passengers can enjoy an extensive gastronomical experience in a brand new Food & Beverage area. Do & Co will be the operator of this Food Court located at the C Gates area of Pier West. On a ﬂoor space of about 800 m² and in typical DO & CO quality, Demel offers traditional Vienna coffee house culture of the highest quality. At Henry guests at Vienna Airport can enjoy freshly squeezed juices, tapas and antipasti, cold and warm dishes from all over the world and many homemade desserts. Check out the American Diner with a broad range of breakfast dishes, freshly made salads, American sandwiches and burgers. Another highlight is a “Children’s Restaurant” boasting a culinary offering tailored to the wishes of the airport’s young guests.

The Hamburg-based company Gebrueder Heinemann recently opened the largest duty free shop in Austria at the Shopping Plaza of Vienna Airport. On an area of about 1,200 m², travelers will find a huge range of international brand-name products at low prices, Austrian specialties and delicacies and surprising service innovations. NEW: VICTORIA’S SECRET AT THE AIRPORT Victoria’s Secret, the leading lingerie and beauty brand, just opened its first beauty and accessories store at Check-in 2 in the Shopping Plaza. Effective immediately, passengers can find fragrances, cosmetics in practical travel sizes, signature lip glosses, branded beauty cases and many stylish accessories of the brand Victoria‘s Secret. A

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shop from Picard and the popup store of the Austrian glasses brand Silhouette are also new at the airport. The International Bookstore near Check-in 3 at the G Gates recently launched a new shop concept for travelers. Travelers will ﬁnd more than 100 shops and restaurants at Vienna Airport.

STAR ALLIANCE TERMINAL 3 Almost all Star Alliance flights depart from Terminal 3, which offers passengers short distances. Passengers do not have to change terminals when transferring to connecting flights departing from Vienna. After the central security checkpoint, travelers will find 43 Shops, Duty Free Shops and Restaurants in Terminal 3 as well as lounges of Austrian Airlines and Vienna Airport.

Family Fun Gate

Abflug /

TRANSPORTATION TO VIENNA’S CITY CENTRE The City Airport Train (CAT) carries passengers on the fastest way nonstop to “Wien Mitte” station that is located in the city center of Vienna. The driving time is just 16 minutes and the train leaves every 30 minutes. Vienna Airport Lines operates scheduled bus connections between the airport and the city center (Morzinplatz/Schwedenplatz), the Western Railway Station (Westbahnof), Meidling and

the Vienna International Center (UNO City). The suburban train (S-Bahn) leaves every thirty minutes and also takes travelers to Wien Mitte, stopping at several regional stations along the way. Travel time is about 35 minutes. Taxis, rental cars and limousine services are available in front of the arrival hall. Anyone travelling to the airport by car can select among several multi-storey car parks and parking lots. The least expensive parking rates can be determined in advance using the interactive parking fee calculator at www.viennaairport.com. 4

Terminal 3 Terminal 2

departure /

Terminal 1A

Ankunft / arrival /

Terminal 1

Ankunft arrival

VIENNA AIRPORT-APP The Vienna Airport app is available at the App Store or at the Play Store as download! CROATIA AIRLINES

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■ POZNATI U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU CELEBRITIES IN OUR AIRCRAFT

FRAUKE AULBERT

Piše/By Davor DragojloviÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Tomislav VeiÊ

Letom Croatia Airlinesa stigla je u Hrvatsku mlada njemaËka koloraturna sopranistica Frauke Aulbert, poznata kao Hamburπka kraljica avangarde. Razlog njezina posjeta Hrvatskoj novi je festival za suvremenu glazbu i umjetnost Novalis music+art festival, koji se održao na glavnome novaljskom trgu u organizaciji grupe hrvatskih muziËara mlae generacije. Young German coloratura soprano Frauke Aulbert, dubbed Hamburg’s queen of avant-garde, arrived in Croatia by a Croatia Airlines ﬂight. The reason for her visit to Croatia was a new festival of contemporary music and art titled, Novalis music+art festival, which took place in the main square in Novalja, on the island of Pag, in the organization of a group of young Croatian musicians.

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rauke Aulbert, hamburπka kraljica avangarde, tu titulu nosi na temelju iznimnog raspona glasa od Ëetiri oktave i velike virtuoznosti koja, uza standardne klasiËne tehnike, obuhvaÊa i brojne posebne pjevaÊe tehnike kao alikvotno pjevanje, izvoenje multifonika i drugo. U toku svog obrazovanja izuËavala je razliËite muziËke æanrove, od gamelana, jazza, πansone, beatboxsa, te svih ostalih suvremenih izriËaja pjevanja. Nakon studija na vrhunskim πkolama u Kiehlu, Hamburgu i na Tenerifeu, u sklopu kojih je napisala dizertaciju o alikvotnom pjevanju, Frauke Aulbert nastupa po cijeloj Europi, ali i svjetskim pozornicama u SAD-u, Tunisu, Gruziji i Brazilu. Samo u posljednjoj godini, Frauke Aulbert nastupila je na Radio France, ZKM u Karlsruheu, Grimeborn Festivalu u Londonu i na najpoznatijemu meunarodnom ljetnom seminaru za suvremenu glazbu u Darmstadtu. Od brojnih nagrada najznaËajnije je prvo mjesto koje joj je 2009. dodijelila Fondacija Stockhausen za izvrsnu interpretaciju Stockhausenovih djela, kao i meunarodna nagrada Music theatre NOW, koju je osvojila 2012. godine. Razlog njezina posjeta Hrvatskoj novi je festival za suvremenu glazbu i umjetnost Novalis music+art festival, koji se održao 28. kolovoza na glavnome novaljskom trgu u organizaciji grupe hrvatskih muziËara mlae generacije. Za organizaciju festivala Novalis zaslužni su mladi glazbenici Davor Branimir Vincze, Sanja LasiÊ i Ivana Biliπko. − Taj festival predstavlja novi pristup sluπanju ozbiljne glazbe razbijajuÊi stigmu klasiËnog odnosa izvoaËa i publike − istiËe B. Vincze, dodajuÊi: − Obrazovanjem u inozemstvu, shvatili smo da vani postoji trend pribliæavanja suvremene glazbe umjetnosti kroz drugaËiji koncept koji uklanja barijeru izmeu sluπatelja i glazbenika pruæajuÊi im novi doæivljaj suvremene glazbe. Drugim rijeËima, ovaj festival odvija se pod glavnom premisom 3I - Inovacija, Interdisciplinarnosti i Interakcija. Inovativnost se odnosi u prvom redu na nove medije, ali i na ukupni naËin nekoncertnog naËina predstavljanja glazbe, koji ukljuËuje neobiËne lokacije na otvorenom, kretanje izvoaËa, samostalno odluËivanje publike o naËinu sluπanja glazbe kao i izvoenje samo æivuÊih autora.

Interdisciplinarnost se odnosi na to što Êe veÊina izvoenih glazbenih komada spajati suvremenu glazbu sa srodnim umjetniËkim pravcima poput videoinstalacija, suvremenog plesa, teatra i ostalih umjetniËkih formi. Kako je danas teπko privuÊi pozornost sluπatelja, kljuËna je Interakcija izmeu publike i izvoaËa, kako bi se gledatelje uspjeπno uvuklo u samu izvedbu. Zbog istog razloga, u sklopu programa, iduÊih godina bit Êe odræane razne radionice, intervjui s umjetnicima te okrugli stolovi, ali i otvorene probe, kako bi se posjetitelji festivala osjeÊali neposredno upleteni u proces stvaranja. Stoga Novalis predstavlja mjesto susreta profesionalaca s razliËitih podruËja umjetnosti i publike, koja ima priliku svjedoËiti novonastalim idejama koje Êe se raati iz njihove umjetniËke suradnje. Ove godine Novalis je pilot koncertom predstavio Ëetiri solistice vokalnog ansambla Forum Neue Vokalmusik, Frauke Aulbert, Natashu López, Alessiju Park i Mariju Skender, a voditeljica je i osnivaËica Frauke Aulbert. Na koncertu u Novalji 28. kolovoza izvele su skladbe poznatih æivuÊih autora kao πto su Aperghis, Saariaho, Szmytka, ali i djelo hrvatske skladateljice Sanje LasiÊ. PjevajuÊi, skaËuÊi, lupajuÊi, vriπteÊi i dozivajuÊi se preko megafona, djevojke su na svojstven naËin na glavnom novaljskom trgu ugodno iznenadile i zabavile znatiæeljnu publiku uza svjetlost svijeÊa u suton. Neprestano mijenjajuÊi poziciju na atraktivnoj lokaciji uz more, Frauke Aulbert i njezine kolegice na originalan su naËin pokazale da Novalja, uz 24-satnu zabavu na ZrÊu, moæe ponuditi i veoma kvalitetan kulturni program. Q

rauke Aulbert, Hamburg’s queen of avant-garde, owes her title to the extraordinary vocal range of four octaves and an enviable virtuosity which comprises many singing techniques including overtone singing and producing multifonics with her voice, in addition to the classical singing techniques. In the course of her education, she studied different music genres including gamelan, jazz, French chanson, beatbox and other contemporary types of singing. Having completed her studies at the top schools in Kiel, Hamburg and Tenerife, during which she also wrote a dissertation on overtone singing, Frauke Aulbert has performed all over Europe and further aﬁ eld on stages in the USA, Tunisia, Georgia and Brazil. In the course of last year alone, Frauke Aulbert appeared on Radio France, the ZKM in Karlsruhe, at the Grimeborn Festival in London and at the most famous international summer seminar for

contemporary music in Darmstadt. Among the numerous recognitions for her work, the most important is the award she received in 2009 by the Stockhausen Foundation for her remarkable interpretation of Stockhausen’s pieces as well as the international award Music Theatre NOW, which she won in 2012. The reason for her visit to Croatia was a new festival of contemporary music and art titled, Novalis music+art festival, which took place on August 28th in the main square in Novalja in the organization of a group of young Croatian musicians: Davor B. Vincze, Sanja LasiÊ and Ivana Biliπko. − This festival offers a new approach to the way we listen to classical music and it dispels the stigma of the conventional relationship between a performer and an audience, said Mr. Vincze, and added to that: − During our education abroad, we became aware of the trend which brings contemporary music closer to art with the help of a different concept: removing the barrier between listeners and musicians and offering audiences a different experience of contemporary music. In other words, the festival’s motto was 3I − Inovation, Interdisciplinarity and Interaction. Inovation implies, ﬁrst and foremost, the new media as well as the totality of non-concert ways of presenting music which includes unorthodox outdoor venues, performers’ movements, the involvement of audiences who make independent decisions on how they wish to listen to music and also performing only music by living authors. Interdisciplinarity refers to the fact that a majority of the performed pieces connects contemporary music with related art forms

such as video installations, contemporary dance, theatre and others. One of the biggest problems today is captivating audiences’ attention which is why Interaction is the key word; interaction between an audience and a performer aimed at drawing the listeners successfully into the performance itself. For the same reason, the upcoming editions of the festival will feature various workshops, interviews with artists and round tables as well as public rehearsals so as to fully involve the festival’s visitors into the creation process. Thus, Novalis is a place where professionals engaged in different ﬁelds of art meet their audiences who are given the opportunity to witness new ideas resulting from their artistic cooperation. This year, during its pilot concert, Novalis presented the four soloists of the Forum Neue Vokalmusik ensemble: Frauke Aulbert, the leader and founder of the ensemble, Natasha López, Alessia Park and Marija Skender. During the concert, which took place on August 28th in Novalja, they performed music by well known living authors such as Aperghis, Saariaho, Szmytka, and a piece by Croatian composer Sanja LasiÊ. By singing, jumping, clapping, screaming and calling each other by megaphone, the girls pleasantly surprised and entertained a curious audience gathered in the candle-lit main square in Novalja at sunset. By constantly changing their positions in an attractive location by the sea, Frauke Aulbert and her colleagues chose a very original way to show that there is more to Novalja than round the clock partying at ZrÊe and that Novalja can offer a very high quality cultural programme as well. Q Natasha López, Alessia Park, Marija Skender, Frauke Aulbert, Davor B. Vincze, Jagoda Szmytka, Sanja LasiÊ

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Putujete avionom? Od sada svi putnici Croatia Airlinesa mogu uæivati u 150 minuta besplatne voænje nextbike biciklima dnevno ako aktiviraju standard tarifu za samo 79 kn!

sniËkom karticom moæete bræe i jednostavnije unajmiti bicikl. Prislonite je na senzor terminala, upiπete broj bicikla koji æelite unajmiti, sjednete i vozite! Ugodnu voænju æeli vam nextbike!

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1. Registrirajte se na https://nextbike.net/hr/ hr/zagreb/registracija/ 2. Aktivirajte svoj korisniËki raËun kreditnom karticom po cijeni od 79 kn i taj iznos iskoristite za najam bicikala, a ne rabite li kreditne kartice, svoj raËun moæete aktivirati i slanjem SMS poruke sadræaja 80 na broj 707070 (za Vip, Tomato, Simpa, T-mobile i bonbon korisnike). 3. Poπaljite nam svoje ime, prezime, adresu stanovanja, broj zrakoplovne karte i datum zadnjeg leta na info@nextbike.hr i u roku od 24 sata vaπa Fly & Bike tarifa bit Êe aktivirana 4. Unajmite bicikl, sjednite i vozite! Dar najbræima Prvih 10 putnika Croatia Airlinesa, koji se registriraju i aktiviraju svoj nextbike korisniËki raËun, dobivaju na dar nextbike korisniËku karticu potpuno besplatno. S nextbike kori-

1. Register at https://nextbike.net/hr/en/ zagreb/register/ 2. Activate your user account via credit card for only 79 HRK and use it as a prepaid amount for bike rentals 3. Send us your ﬁrst and last name, address, number of your plane ticket and the date of your last ﬂight to info@nextbike.hr and your Fly & Bike tariff will be active within 24 hours 4. Rent a bike, sit and ride!

Nextbike bike sharing system is available in many European and other cities worldwide and is also available in Zagreb and ©ibenik. It is a perfect addition to the existing public transport network. It will help you in easier, faster and healthier commuting in the city, avoiding trafﬁc jams and parking problems and saving your money! Nextbike protects the environment, enriches tourist offer and it has a positive impact on the quality of life in urban areas in general. Once registered, you can use nextbike bikes in more than 80 cities worldwide!

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Piše/By Dubravka Belas Fotograﬁje/Photos Nenad Reberšak

OU 667 Dubrovnik-Zagreb

»asopis Croatia predstavlja Hrvatsku, njezinu slavnu povijest i kulturu, drevne gradove, profinjenu arhitekturu, raskoπne prirodne ljepote, ljude i obiËaje, æivopisnu, divnu sliku zemlje, koju vam daruje Croatia Airlines da je ponesete sa sobom i, joπ dugo poslije putovanja, uæivate u njoj. »asopis je prozor u Hrvatsku, ali u njegovoj raskoπnoj ponudi tema zacijelo Êe vas zaintrigirati i pogled kroz prozor na letovima prema nekome od naπih odrediπta. The magazine showcases Croatia, its glorious past and culture, ancient cities, refined architecture, breathtaking natural beauty, people and customs, providing a colourful, enchanting image of a country. It is Croatia Airlines’ gift to its passengers. You are more than welcome to take it home and enjoy it for days to come even after your trip is over. The magazine is your window into Croatia. Having said that, the topics in it may be interesting and diverse, but you will certainly be intrigued by the view through the aircraft window as you fly to one of our destinations. CROATIA AIRLINES

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roπli ste sve aerodromske formalnosti, prehodali duge hodnike zraËne luke, pronaπli svoj gate, ukrcali se, smjestili, s olakπanjem odahnuli i zavalili se u udobno sjedalo aviona Croatia Airlinesa. Prepustili ste kontrolu iskusnoj posadi i pristali biti dio ovoga smirujuÊeg prostora koji Êe vas za sat ili dva, kroz ledene oblake, dovesti do odrediπta. Nekima od vas, onima najzaposlenijima, trenuci provedeni na letu moæda su i jedini predah izmeu sastanaka i telefoniranja. Velika je vjerojatnost da Êete najprije pregledati sadræaj dæepa sjedala ispred vas. A meu ostalim standardnim stvarima ondje Êete naÊi − i putni Ëasopis. U 2014. godini Croatia Airlines slavi Ëak dva velika jubileja − srebrnu obljetnicu tvrtke i dvadesetu godiπnjicu izlaæenja putnog Ëasopisa. I dok se vaπi suputnici joπ komeπaju gore-dolje po prolazu, vi Êete veÊ listati glatke, sjajne stranice Ëasopisa koji se zove jednostavno − Croatia, poput zemlje Ëiju ste nacionalnu kompaniju odabrali za svoj let. Moæda Êe vam to biti i prvi dodir s ovom lijepom, malom zemljom na jugoistoku Europe, pa eto razloga viπe da je bolje upoznate. Istraæivanja su pokazala da 80 posto putnika doista proËita Ëasopis koji im kompanije ponude i da provedu prosjeËno 30 minuta leta ËitajuÊi ih, ili barem listajuÊi, Ëak i danas kad 162

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se putnicima nude i drugi oblici zabave tijekom leta. »injenica je da su u sveobuhvatnoj krizi, koja je zahvatila i izdavaËku industriju, putni Ëasopisi trpjeli mnogo manje od ostalih. To je ljepπa strana priËe, dijelom zahvaljujuÊi poznatom broju Ëitatelja, sigurnoj i besplatnoj distribuciji, bez remitende, no stvar se komplicira kad znamo da se, prema svakoj teoriji izdavaπtva, mora toËno identificirati i opsluæivati svoja specifiËna publika − pa su zato uspjeπniji i stabilniji oni koji su pronaπli svoju stalnu æanrovsku i Ëitateljsku niπu, svoje specifiËno træiπte. Sad zamislite tko je samo danas sjedio na istom sjedalu prije vas: poslovni Ëovjek iz Franfkurta, redovnica iz hercegovaËkog Meugorja, nepraÊeno desetogodiπnje dijete iz Pariza, Ëlan hrvatske posade izvan duænosti, turistica iz Dublina, umirovljena dadilja iz Tokija, bacaË kladiva iz Taπkenta i imat Êete sliku πiroke lepeze Ëitatelja, kakvu nije moguÊe jednostavno ciljati. Iskreno, nije ju uopÊe moguÊe ciljati. Zato, imperativno, Ëasopis mora biti dopadljiv svima − ponajprije vizualno kako bi bio πto privlaËniji − neπto poput slikovnice za odrasle, kakvu bi poæeljela listati i djeca. A svrha je sadræaja Croatije putniku pribliæiti ponajprije Hrvatsku, njezine prirodne ljepote i kulturnu baπtinu, s ponekom priËom iz

OU 656 Zagreb-Split

æivota kompanije, odrediπtima koja povezuje, razgovorima s ljudima koji je stvaraju ili sa slavnim ljudima koji njome Ëesto putuju. Napokon, i s vaænim informacijama o kompanijskoj floti, letovima, poslovnicama… Zbog svoje informativnosti i znaËenja i za turistiËku promidæbu, dijeli se ne samo zrakoplovnim putnicima, nego i agentima i predstavnicima na turistiËkim sajmovima te medijima. Teme koje obrauje bogate su i raznovrsne, pa je Croatia jedan od Ëasopisa s najveÊim brojem stranica i s veoma kvalitetnim fotografijama i tekstovima meu 150 sliËnih, koji se danas izdaju u svijetu. Svojom snaænom, karakternom vizualnoπÊu reflektira vizualni identitet Hrvatske i same tvrtke Croatia Airlines pa se, logiËno, njegov produæeni æivot odvija i u programima emitiranima videosustavom u zrakoplovima, a brojevi posljednjih nekoliko godina mogu se u online izdanju pregledati i na internetskoj stranici kompanije. »asopis Croatia predstavlja Hrvatsku, njezinu slavnu povijest i kulturu, drevne gradove, profinjenu arhitekturu, raskoπne prirodne ljepote, ljude i obiËaje, æivopisnu, divnu sliku zemlje, koju vam daruje Croatia Airlines da je ponesete sa sobom i, joπ dugo poslije putovanja, uæivate u njoj. »asopis je prozor u Hrvatsku, ali u njegovoj raskoπnoj ponudi tema zacijelo Êe vas zaintrigirati i pogled kroz prozor na

letovima prema nekome od naπih odrediπta. Poglede je za vas snimio Nenad Reberπak, viπestruko nagraivani fotoreporter i strastveni putnik na sjedalu uz prozor. Pogled kroz prozor aviona, uvijek razliËit, zadivljujuÊe je ostvarenje naπih djetinjskih snova: pa i kad je vidljivost slaba, uvijek moæete zamisliti elfe, nestaπne zraËne duhove πto se duboko dolje noÊu igraju po neosvijetljenim livadama. Joπ je bolje kad letite iznad naboranih planinskih lanaca pod snijegom poput goleme zapeËene meringe, iznad smaragdnog æelea gorskih jezera i mentolne modrine mora, divnih plavih vrpci rijeËnih delta, æutih, zelenih, smeih polja, mekog barπuna kakvim se s visine doimaju πume. Katkad Êete uporno pratiti malu sjenu aviona, dostiænu tek pri slijetanju. Vidjet Êete strukture koje su ljudi sagradili u tim Ëarobnim predjelima, brane, mostove, osvijetljene gradove, vidjet Êete blijedi dim koji se ponekad uzdiæe iz dimnjaka neke usamljene planinske kolibe, neke tvornice, a ubrzo se rasplinuo. Vidjet Êete vijugave ceste koje povezuju ljude, gradove u kojima æive, a ipak nikad ne vidite ljude same; uvijek je to dekirikovski krajolik, pomalo uznemirujuÊe oËiπÊen od, makar siÊuπnih, ljudskih likova, poput nekoga bezazlenoga dana poslije, bez vidljive destrukcije ili ikakve negativne konotacije. CROATIA AIRLINES

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OU 442 Zagreb-BeË

A opet su te tople naznake postojanja drugih ljudi, drugih duπa, na drugim mjestima, drage i ohrabrujuÊe; mi nismo sami na tome svijetu, pa Ëak ni taj usamljeni leteÊi brod u kojemu nakratko dijelite sudbinu s drugim putnicima, samo je jedan od mnogih Ëiji Êe se bijeli tragovi ukrstiti na nebu. Pusti me samo da se vinem u to nebo, u njegovo bespuÊe. Pusti me samo da dijelim njegove oblake, da πirim krila u sjaju njegovoga sunca, pjevao je Rabindranath Tagore, a vi se pitate odakle mu to iskustvo, kad je on to mogao na tmuran ili maglovit dan uzletjeti, prodrijeti kroz zatvorene i guste oblake sve do bljeπtavila na visinama na kojima je uvijek sunce. Neke od najspektakularnijih zora ili zalazaka sunca moÊi Êete vidjeti kroz prozor aviona Croatia Airlinesa − poput zalaska na Jadranskome moru, koji je svojim objektivom saËuvao naπ fotograf, putni romantiËar poput svih onih koji traæe mjesto uz prozor; zaËarani prizor u kojem se sunce sklanja ispod horizonta, negdje ispod morske povrπine, razlijevajuÊi svoju vatru unaokolo pa se i nebo i more i, inaËe od πume zatamnjen otok Mljet, doimaju zapaljenima, i taj je proliveni plamen jednako rumen, zlatan i silan poput kakvoga πumskog poæara. Ili te zore nad morem, ruæiËaste i sive, u kojima se ne vidi razlika ni granica izmeu neba i mora. Danaπnji putnici mogu samo æaliti za proπlim vremenima, kad su, sve do ranih devedesetih, vrata cockpita katkad bila otvorena na slijetanju, pa su i putnici uz prolaz mogli doÊi na svoje - i danju, a osobito noÊu, vidjeti kako se osvijetljena pista pruæa pred pilotima. A tek oblaci... poput lopti od pamuka ili bijele pjene... Jeste li znali da je Lijepa Helena, zbog Ëijega je lica pokrenuto tisuÊe brodova, bila tek privienje oblaka, Ëarolija Protejeva, puki trik kojim se zameÊu ratovi. Oblaci su i Ëarobne Zeusove igraËke iz kojih se raaju kentauri. Oblaci su pregrade izmeu dvaju svjetova; isprva izgledaju guste i Ëvrste poput gruda snijega, gotovo odmoriπta, a onda i najmanja ptica proleti kroz njih poput metka i otkrije nam da su, zapravo, laki i prozraËni poput prvih ljubavnih snova. I varljivi, jer ne mogu nas zadræati u svojem zagrljaju, kako se god predstavljali. I svejedno je li rijeË o paperjastim cirusima, oteæalim nimbusima koji sav svoj vodeni teret izlijevaju kÊerima Oceana rasprπenima po otocima; svejedno je jesu li ih vjetrovi oblikovali u bijele leÊe rasute svodom, ili je rijeË o golemim, cvatuÊim nakovnjima kumulonimbusa koje Êe svaka posada, s respektom, briæljivo zaobilaziti; svi su jednako oËaravajuÊi, koliko god im ljepotu znanost razotkrivala podukom o sastavu i tvorbi. Joπ samo da imate sreÊe jedanput, neke bistre i mirne ljetne noÊi, kad

OU 414 Zagreb-Frankfurt

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ogledaju − jednako lijepi, jednako uzbudljivi. Pa se pitate − hoÊete li ikad imati vremena sve ih posjetiti, jer svi zasluæuju mnogo viπe od preleta i pogleda s visine, danju, kad se doimaju pustima; ili noÊu kad æmirkaju svojim svjetlima u dubini. Tada postanete radoznali, svjesni pulsiranja æivota u njima, istoga onog æivota koji nam jasno poruËuje − da samo sanjati jednostavno nije dovoljno. Q OU 460 Zagreb-Zürich

je sunce veÊ ispod obzora, opaziti one rijetke, najviπe oblake, noktilucentne, Ëiji Êe siÊuπni ledeni kristali svijetliti plavom ili rumenom svjetloπÊu, tako slobodni, tako neobjaπnjivo nadmoÊni nad gravitacijom. A kad oblaka nema, otkrit Êe vam se sva raskoπ divnih gradova koje prepoznajete sustavno, poput enigmatiËara, kad ih gledate pri slijetanju - vatikanskoga grada s kupolom sv. Petra i apostolskom palaËom, dijelove vjeËnoga grada presjeËenog zelenom æilom Tibra; vidjete Êete ljeskanje zavojite Temze, πarm pariπkih krovova, praktiËnost beËkih ringova; otkrit Êe vam se zatim Alpe, Ëak i one neπto pravilnijega i stroæeg rastera u mrkome njemaËkome i πvicarskome dijelu, od blaæega i zelenijega u francuskome i talijanskome dok se snjeænim prstima pruæaju prema Sredozemlju. U Hrvatskoj upravo je kroz avionski prozor najlakπe zapaziti bogatstvo potpuno razliËitih krajolika skupljenih na nevelikom prostoru, na jednome mjestu, poput izloæbe, izloæbe samo za vas. Tek iz zraka moæete razumjeti zaπto se polja u Slavoniji nazivaju zlatnima, ili zaπto je Zagreb metropola po mjeri Ëovjeka. Duboko zelenilo Gorskoga kotara, udoline ispunjene maglom kao da je netko u njih natoËio mlijeko, ljepota Like i PlitviËkih jezera; uvijek osunËani istarski trokut, a onda, prema jugu, niska predivnih gradova ugnijeæenih u uvalama ispod kamenih planina, od Rijeke, preko Zadra, ©ibenika, Splita, Trogira, onih najveÊih, sve do krunskog dragulja Dubrovnika, svi oni s otocima preko puta, od pustog biserja Kornata, do otoËkih gradova u kojima se kao u zrcalima,

OU 657 Split-Zagreb

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ll airport formalities are behind you; you have done the long walk through the airport building corridors, found your gate, boarded your plane and located your seat; you breathed a sigh of relief and you are sitting comfortably in the seat of your Croatia Airlines aircraft. You have ceded control to the experienced flight crew and allowed yourself to be immersed into the soothing atmosphere of the aircraft, which will take you through icy clouds to your destination in an hour or two. For the busiest ones amongst you, that short flight will be the only break between meetings and telephone calls. Soon, you will be checking the contents of the seatback sleeve in front of you and you will find our in-flight magazine there. The year 2014 is marked by two important anniversaries for Croatia Airlines: the company’s silver jubilee and the twentieth anniversary of its in-fl ight magazine. And while your fellowpassengers are still walking up and down the aisle, you are already leafing through the supple and glossy pages of the magazine titled simply, Croatia, like the country whose national air carrier you have chosen to fly with. This will possibly be your first encounter with this small beautiful land in the southeast of Europe - even more reason to get to know it better. Surveys have shown that 80 per cent of airline passengers read the magazines offered to them by air carriers and spend an average of 30 minutes of flying time reading or at least leafing through them, even today when other onboard entertainment options are available. Despite the overall crisis that has hit the economy, including the publishing industry, in-flight magazines have suffered considerably less than other publications. This is the brighter side of the story, due partly to the fact that in-flight magazines have a highly predictable number of readers, a safe and free distribution channel and no unsold copies. However, it is not as simple as that. Things get more complicated bearing in mind the universally accepted publishing theory which says that knowing one’s readership well is the key to providing it with good service. This is why publications with a well defined reader-

ship niche and a specific market are more successful and stable than others. And now, having read this, try to imagine who could have occupied your seat before you: a businessman from Frankfurt, a nun from Meugorje in Herzegovina, an unaccompanied minor from Paris, a dead head Croatia Airlines crew member, a retired nanny from Tokyo, or a javelin thrower from Tashkent. As you do that, you will get the picture of a vast array of readers who are anything but easy to target. Therefore, universal appeal is an absolute must for an in-flight magazine. First of all, it has to make a strong visual impression and be as attractive as possible − like a picture book for adults that also appeals to children. As for Croatia’s contents, the aim is to bring Croatia closer to its readers, to showcase the country’s natural wealth and cultural heritage; to flavour everything with a story or two from the company’s day-to-day business operations, the destinations it connects, interviews with people who make the airline tick and celebrities who often use its services. Last, but not least, it needs to provide all-important information about the company’s fleet, services, offices... Owing to the information it offers and its importance in tourist promotion, Croatia is handed out not only to the airline’s passengers but also distributed to agents and industry representatives at trade fairs as well as to the media. The wide range of topics it covers makes Croatia one of the in-flight magazines with the greatest number of pages; the remarkably high quality photos and texts make it stand out among the 150 similar publications currently available worldwide. Its strong and characterfull design reflects the visual identity of Croatia as a country and Croatia Airlines as its national air carrier. It is, therefore, only logical that its life-cycle has been extended into onboard video broadcast. In the last few years, all issues can be viewed online on the company’s website. The magazine showcases Croatia, its glorious past and culture, ancient cities, refined architecture, breathtaking natural beauty, people and customs, providing a colourful, enchanting image of a country. It is Croatia Airlines’ gift to its passengers. You are more than welcome to take it home and enjoy it for days to come even after your trip is over. The magazine is your window into Croatia. Having said that, the topics in it may be interesting and diverse, but you will certainly be intrigued by the view through the aircraft window as you fly to one of our destinations. The photos of those views were taken for you

by Nenad Reberπak, a multiple award-winning photographer and a passionate window seat passenger himself. An ever changing view through an aircraft window is like a childhood dream come true in a most wonderful way: even when visibility is poor, you can always imagine elves, playful ghosts who live in the element air and twist and twirl deep down below you as they play their night-time games in poorly lit meadows. Better still, you will fly over the rugged mountain ranges covered with snow which makes them look like a huge heap of meringue; above the jelly-like emerald mountain lakes and the mint blue coloured sea, the beautiful blue bands of river deltas, yellow, green and brown fields... the soft velvet that are forests seen from above. You will pass the time in following the small aircraft shadow, reachable only at landing. You will see structures built by humans in fascinating places: dams, bridges, brightly lit cities; you will see the pale smoke rising from the chimney of a lonely mountain lodge or a factory, smoke there one moment and gone the next. You will discern winding roads connecting people and cities they live in; however, you will never see people themselves. The landscape is always De Chiricoesque, disturbingly divested of people, even the tiniest human characters, strongly reminiscent of a harmless day after without a trace of destruction or negative connotation. And yet again, these heart-warming signs of the existence of other people, other souls, in other places, are so endearing and encouraging. They tell us we are not alone in this world. Even this lonely flying vessel in which you are sitting comfortably and sharing a brief moment of your existence with other passengers is actually just one of the many whose white traces will cross paths in the sky. To quote Rabindranath Tagore Let me but soar in that sky, in its lonely immensity. Let me but cleave its clouds and spread wings in its sunshine. You may wonder where the poet’s experience comes from; how could he possibly soar in the sky on a dark or foggy day? How could he penetrate the impenetrable thick clouds all the way to the heights where the sun always shines? You will be able to see some of the most spectacular sunrises or sunsets through a Croatia Airlines window, like the sunset over the Adriatic Sea captured by the lens of our photographer, a romantic traveller who always asks for a window seat; a fascinating scene depicting the sun setting below the horizon, below the surface of the sea, while spilling its fire so that the sky and the sun, and the island of Mljet whose forests always make it

look dark, look ablaze. That liquid blaze is as crimson, gold and mighty as a real forest fire. Or the rosy and gray sunrises above the sea which make the boundary between the sky and the sea blurred. Modern-day travellers can only long for the days gone when, up to the early 90’s, cockpit doors were open during landing so that even the passengers in the aisle seats could benefit from a spectacular view during the day and even more so during night: the brightly lit runway extending before the pilots’ eyes as the aircraft started landing, luring and seducing them like a mistress as if it was coming up towards the plane, while at the same time descending upon it. And clouds… like cotton balls or white foam… Did you know that Belle Helene, whose face launched a thousand ships, was nothing but a cloudy apparition, a Proteus’ spell, a mere trick to start a war? Clouds are also Zeus’s magical toys which give birth to centaurs. Clouds are partitions between two worlds; at first glance, they look thick and firm like snow balls, almost like places where one could lay to rest, and even then the smallest of birds zooms through them like a bullet and exposes them for what they really are: light and ethereal like the first love dreams, and also deceitful because they can keep us in their embrace no matter how they present themselves to us. Whatever they are − the feathery cirrus, the cumbrous nimbus which unloads all of its water loads to the daughters of the Ocean scattered across islands; it makes no difference whether winds have shaped them into white cells dispersed across the celestial sphere or whether they are huge, flourishing anvils of the cumulonimbus which every flying crew will give a wide berth with respect; they are all equally fascinating no matter how much science exposes their beauty for what it is teaching us about their composition and formation. With a bit of luck, on a clear and balmy summer night, when the sun is already below the horizon, you will spot the rarest and highest of clouds, the noctilucents and the blue or red glitter of their minute icy crystals, so free and so inexplicably stronger than gravity. On a cloud-free day, the splendour of beautiful cities reveals itself to you and you start a mental guessing game: what is it that you see as your aircraft approaches the runway? Like a puzzle solver, you start identifying the sights below you: the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica and the Apostolic Palace in the Vatican, parts of the Eternal City intersected by the green vein of the Tiber; the glitter of the meandering Thames River; the delightful charm of Parisian rooftops, or the practical arrangement of the

OU 490 Zagreb-London

rings in Vienna; the Alps will reveal themselves to you, their somewhat more regularly shaped and strictly aligned parts in the darker German and Swiss regions and their softer and greener slopes in France and Italy, or their snow-covered fingers stretching deep towards the Mediterranean. An aircraft window is the perfect medium to communicate the amazing diversity of landscapes in such a small area that is Croatia, like an exhibition, staged just for you. Only from so high up can you understand why the fields of Slavonia are dubbed golden, or why Zagreb is a metropolis made to human measure. The deep verdant of Gorski Kotar, mountain gorges filled up with milk-like fog, the beauty of Lika and Plitvice Lakes, the eternally sun-drenched Istrian triangle, and then, towards the south of the country, a string of beautiful cities nestled in bays at the foot of stony mountain ranges; Rijeka, Zadar, ©ibenik, Split, Trogir, to mention only the biggest ones, and the crown jewel that is Dubrovnik; all of them with islands off their shores, including the desolate string of pearls known as the Kornati archipelago, and island towns mirrored in the sea − all equally beautiful, equally exciting. And you cannot help but wonder if you will ever have the time to visit them all, because they deserve so much more than a brief flyover and a view from above, in daylight, when they look deserted, and at night when their lights flicker deep down below you. You become curious, aware of the life pulsating in them, the same life which sends us a clear message: dreaming is simply not enough. Q

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RUJAN/SEPTEMBER Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 25.-28.9., Zagreb 10. INTERNACIONALNI FESTIVAL EKSPERIMENTALNOG FILMA I VIDEA/ 10th INTERNATIONAL EXPERIMENTAL FILM AND VIDEO FESTIVAL Mnoge zanimljive filmove πto Êe ih predstaviti autori u Studentskom centru moæete pogledati na festivalu koji prati najnoviju produkciju avangardnoga i eksperimentalnog filma./ Showcasing the recent production of avant-garde and experimental films, this is a festival of fascinating films presented by authors at the Student Centre. www.25fps.hr

Varaædin i okolica/Varaædin and surroundings 20.9.-2.10., Varaædin VARAÆDINSKE BAROKNE VE»ERI/VARAÆDIN BAROQUE EVENINGS Tijekom trinaest festivalskih dana moÊi Êete uæivati u baroknoj glazbi i gostovanju domaÊih i stranih glazbenika, a osobito zanimljivi bit Êe koncerti Venecijanskoga baroknog ansambla./ The 13 days of the festival feature plenty of baroque music with guest appearances by both Croatian and international musicians, including a particularly interesting performance by the Venice Baroque Orchestra. www.vbv.hr

28.9., Viæinada BICIKLISTI»KI MARATON PARENZANA/OL ISTRIA MTB TOUR − PARENZANA CUBE − PARENZANA CYCLING TOUR Rekreativni biciklistiËki maraton svake godine okuplja sve viπe ljubitelja rekreativnog biciklizma iz Hrvatske i drugih europskih zemalja. OËekuju vas zanimljivi prigodni programi i druæenje./ Every year, this recreational cycling tour gathers an increasing number of cycling recreationists and fans from both Croatia and abroad, with packed entertainment programmes and good fun for all. www.parenzana.com

Sisak i okolica/Sisak and surroundings LISTOPAD/OCTOBER Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings

Pula i okolica/Pula and surroundings

30.9., Zagreb KONCERT IL DIVO/IL DIVO CONCERT U Areni Zagreb nastupit Êe svjetski popularan kvartet Il Divo, koji Êe svoj drugi koncert na toj pozornici odræati u sklopu nove turneje Il Divo − A Musical Affair: najbolje pjesme s Broadwaya uæivo./ The globally popular quartet Il Divo is performing at Zagreb Arena for the second time as part of their latest Il Divo − A Musical Affair: The Greatest Songs of Broadway Live tour. www.eventim.hr

* Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara This schedule is valid on August 15th. Allow for change after this date.

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award is holding a concert at the Student Centre Cinema. www.eventim.hr 19.-26.10., Zagreb ZAGREB FILM FESTIVAL/ ZAGREB FILM FESTIVAL Filmove koji nisu komercijalni, nego teæe umjetniËkim ostvarenjima i postaju hitovima, moæete pogledati na Zagreb Film Festivalu. Projekcije filmova praÊene su i izvrsnim koncertima./The Zagreb Film Festival brings uncommercial films which strive for artistic achievement and become box-office hits. Film projections are accompanied by superb concert performances. www.zagrebfilmfestival.com

6.9.-30.11., Buzet, Motovun, Livade DANI TARTUFA U ISTRI/DAYS OF TRUFFLES IN ISTRIA Tartuf, vrhunska delicija koja je joπ prije 4000 godina draæila nepca mezopotamskih vladara, i danas je jedan od prestiænih sastojaka svjetske gastronomije. Istarski bijeli tartuf zri u jesen i najbolje je kuπati tu rijetku blagodat odmah u izvornom okruæju./ Trufﬂe, the exquisite delicacy which tantalised the palates of Mesopotamian rulers 4,000 years ago, is still one of the most luxurious ingredients in global gastronomy. Istrian white trufﬂes ripen in autumn and the best way to enjoy this rare delicacy is to savour it fresh in its natural environment. www.istria-gourmet.com

10.-18.10., Zagreb ZAGREB KOM 8/ZAGREB KOM 8 U Hrvatskome glazbenom zavodu odræava se 9. zagrebaËki meunarodni festival komorne glazbe, na kojemu moæete posluπati vrhunske izvedbe./ The Croatian Music Institute is hosting the 9th Zagreb International Chamber Music Festival featuring top performances. www.zagreb-festival.org 19.10., Zagreb KONCERT JOAN BAEZ/JOAN BAEZ IN CONCERT Legendarna country pjevaËica, aktivistica i dobitnica nagrade za æivotno djelo, odræat Êe koncert u Kinu SC./ The legendary country singer, activist and recipient of a lifetime achievement

10.- 12.10., Hrvatska Kostajnica KESTENIJADA/KESTENIJADA − CHESTNUT FESTIVAL Moæete sudjelovati u berbi kestena i kuπati razliËita jela i slastice od kestena./You are invited to take part in chestnut picking and sample various chestnut-based savoury and sweet dishes. www.hrvatska-kostajnica.hr GospiÊ i okolica/GospiÊ and surroundings 4. i 5.10., GospiÊ JESEN U LICI/AUTUMN IN LIKA Ova manifestacija, uz predstavljanje malih liËkih gospodarstava i poduzetnika, nudi i izloæbu koja Êe prikazati karakteristiËne prehrambene, uporabne i ukrasne predmete. Izloæbu prate kulturno-umjetniËka druπtva koja Êe upotpuniti doæivljaj./Besides

presenting small businesses and entrepreneurs from Lika, this event offers an exhibition featuring typical kitchenalia and decorative objects. Folklore group performances will complete the experience. www.licko-senjska.hr Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 1.10. - 30.11., Punat DANI MASLINA/OLIVE DAYS Ovo dogaanje krËkim gostima prezentira svu raskoπ kvalitetnog ploda masline. To je jedinstvane prilika da sudjelujete u berbi maslina i osjetite otoËku svakodnevicu./Guests of the Island of Krk will be able to experience the luxury of quality olive fruit, presenting them with a unique opportunity to pick olives and experience everyday insular life. www.tzpunat.hr 24.-26.10., Lovran MARUNADA/MARUNADA CHESTNUT FESTIVAL Ponuda maruna, kolaËa i ostalih slastica od maruna, domaÊa jela, jela s marunima, med od maruna, medica, uz cjelodnevni glazbeni i zabavni program u središtu Lovrana./Roast chestnuts, chestnut cakes and other sweet delights, local chestnut dishes, chestnut honey and chestnut liqueurs are offered against the backdrop of music and entertainment programmes

taking place the whole day in the centre of Lovran. www.tz-lovran.hr Zadar i okolica/Zadar and surroundings 23.-26.10., Biograd BIOGRAD BOAT SHOW 2014./ BIOGRAD BOAT SHOW 2014 Biogradski jesenski nautiËki sajam mjesto je gdje moæete dobiti informacije o plovidbi i dobro se zabaviti./The Biograd Boat Show is the place to get ﬁrst-hand sailing information and have good fun. www.marinakornati.com

St Martin’s Day in November, grape turns into wine. Popular St Martin’s festivities are a deeply rooted tradition of the north-western regions of Croatia and are particularly marked in the Zagreb County. www.tz-samobor.hr 29.11., Zagreb KONCERT ANDREJE BOCELLIJA/ ANDREA BOCELLI IN CONCERT Proslavljeni talijanski tenor i istinska svjetska glazbena zvijezda, Andrea Bocelli, odræat Êe svoj veliki solistiËki koncert pred zagrebaËkom publikom u Areni Zagreb./The celebrated Italian tenor and a true global star Andrea Bocelli is holding a big solo concert at Zagreb Arena. www.eventim.hr

STUDENI/NOVEMBER Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 11.11., Dugo Selo, Samobor, Sv. Ivan Zelina, Velika Gorica, Jastrebarsko MARTINJE U ZAGREBA»KOJ ÆUPANIJI/ST MARTIN’S DAY IN THE ZAGREB COUNTY U studenome na Dan sv. Martina moπt se pretvara u vino. Popularno Martinje obiËaj je koji je duboko ukorijenjen u tradiciju sjeverozapadnih krajeva Hrvatske pa se tako joπ i danas posebno obiljeæava u ZagrebaËkoj æupaniji./On

Osijek i okolica/Osijek and surroundings 9.-10.11., Kutjevo PUTEVIMA PANDURA/ON THE TRAIL OF THE TRENK TROOPERS Ova manifestacija održava se ispred povijesnog dvorca u Kutjevu i ukljuËuje povijesni prikaz posjeta carice Marije Terezije Kutjevu 1741. godine te njezin susret s barunom Trenkom i njegovim pandurima./Taking place before the historical Manor of Kutjevo, this event is an enactment of the visit of Empress Maria Theresa to Kutjevo in 1741, and

her encounter with Baron Trenk and his troopers. www.najboljeuhrvatskoj.info

PROSINAC/DECEMBER Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings Prosinac, Zagreb ADVENT U ZAGREBU/ADVENT IN ZAGREB U srcu Zagreba - na Trgu bana JelaËiÊa, kao i na ostalim trgovima i ulicama grada, u sklopu te tradicionalne blagdanske manifestacije, organizira se bogat kulturno-zabavni program./ At the heart of Zagreb, the Ban JelaËiÊ Square, as well as other squares and streets of the City, cultural and entertainment programmes are organised as part of traditional holiday festivities. www.adventzagreb.com

CROATIA AIRLINES

169

www.erstecardclub.hr Info telefon: 01 4929 555

Nešto je posebno u zraku! Rođendansko slavlje Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa. Dvostruko slavlje, dvostruke pogodnosti! Proslavite i vi 45. rođendan Diners Cluba u Hrvatskoj te 25. rođendan Croatia Airlinesa i iskoristite pogodnosti: -

Diners Club Croatia Airlines i Visa Croatia Airlines kartice bez upisnine i članarine za prvu godinu korištenja rođendanski promotivni kod u vrijednosti od 200 kn koji možete iskoristiti prilikom online kupnje Croatia Airlines zrakoplovnih karata na www.croatiaairlines.hr, prema uvjetima objavljenim na stranici

Diners Club Croatia Airlines i Visa Croatia Airlines kreditnim karticama možete kupovati na najvećem broju prodajnih mjesta u svijetu te istodobno skupljati nagradne milje* i osvojiti zrakoplovne karte. *prema Pravilima nagradnog programa za korisnike Diners Club Croatia Airlines i Visa Croatia Airlines kartice

170

CROATIA AIRLINES

SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 172 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED

176 NOVOSTI NEWS

178 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 181 FLOTA FLEET 183 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 185 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB ZAGREB AIRPORT 186 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 188 ADRESE ADDRESSES

CROATIA AIRLINES

171

Miles & More

Kupujte eksluzivne proizvode u Lufthansa WorldShopu − moguÊa dostava u Hrvatsku! Otkrijte naπ πiroki asortiman zanimljivih proizvoda kao πto su putne torbe i kovËezi, dodatna oprema, elektroniËki ureaji i ostali nezaobilazni proizvodi za putovanje i kuÊu. Posjetite nas na www.worldshop.eu ili u naπim prodavaonicama u zraËnim lukama. Moæete plaÊati gotovinom ili kreditnim karticama te Miles & More nagradnim miljama, a moguÊe je i kombinirati ta dva naËina plaÊanja. Shop for exclusive products at Lufthansa WorldShop − available for delivery to Croatia! Discover our wide assortment of interesting products such as luggage, accessories, electronics, and other must-haves for on the move or at home. Visit us at www.worldshop.eu or in our airport shops. Available for purchase with cash or credit card, redeemable for Miles & More award miles, or a combination of both.

Osnove programa Miles & More

Introducing Miles & More

Miles & More najve Êi je program nagraivanja putnika u Europi i nudi Ëlanovima ra zliËite moguÊnosti prikupljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih par tnera u programu. Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija par tnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kar tica Miles & More.

Miles & More is the greatest frequent ﬂyer programme in Europe, offering its members numerous possibilites for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many at tractive privileges. Members collect miles by using the ser vices of many par tners in the programme. Miles are credited for ﬂights of all Star Alliance members and other airline par tners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car par tners or staying in participating hotels.

Zatra æite svoju Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditnu kar ticu! n 5 ku na = 1 mi lja − za sva kih 5 ku na potro πe nih preko ove kar tice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja

Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card! n 5 HRK = 1 mi le − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile

172

CROATIA AIRLINES

Miles & More Popunite i pošaljite / Complete and send off

Pristupnica − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia ili na fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200 Enrolment − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia or by fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200 0HR01

Molimo da napišete samo jednu adresu velikim, štampanim slovima / Please state only one address in capital letters Ime / Titula / Oslovljavanje / First or given name Title Salutation g / Mr. Dr. Ga / Mrs. Prof. Ulica i broj, zgrada / Street and number, building

Poštanski broj / Postcode

Datum roenja (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of birth (dd/mm/yyyy)

Prezime / Family name

Poštanski pretinac / PO Box

Grad / Town

Država / Country

Odjel (nije obavezno) / Department (optional)

Molimo Vas da unesete naziv kompanije (nije obavezno) / Please enter name of company here (optional)

E-mail-adresa (Molimo Vas da popunite ovo polje) / E-mail address (Please enter your e-mail address and check/mark the box below to receive account information via the Miles & More online newsletter!) Telefon / Telephone

Broj mobitela / Mobile number

Molimo Vas da velikim štampanim slovima popunite polja podacima o svom trenutnom letu / Please fill in your current flight details in capital letters Broj karte, etix®, ETKT (npr. 220 3000000474) / Ticket number, etix®, ETKT (e.g. 220 3000000474)

Br. leta (npr. LH 180) / Flight No. (e.g. LH 180)

Datum odlaska (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of departure (dd/mm/yyyy)

Ruta (npr. Frankfurt−Paris) / Route (e.g. Frankfurt−Paris)

Osoban odabir naËina komunikacije* / Personal communication preferences* Æelim primati sljedeÊe i slažem se da se moji osobni podaci koriste za: / I would like to receive the following communication and agree to the usage of my personal data for communication: Miles & More Online Newsletter/ Miles & More Online Newsletter

Miles & More ponude posebno za Vas / Miles & More offers especially for you

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Informacije o proizvodima Lufthanse i ostalim Miles & More avio partnerima / Product information about Lufthansa and the Miles & More airline partners

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Podaci o Vašem Miles & More raËunu i Miles & More newsletter mogu jedino biti poslani elektroniËkom poštom. NeÊete ih primiti poštom; bilo kako bilo, svoj raËun milja u bilo koje vrijeme možete vidjeti na miles-and-more.com / Miles & More account information is only sent via the Miles & More online newsletter. There is no separate mailing.; however, you can view your mileage account anytime at miles-and-more.com.

Odabirem jezik za komunikaciju / Preferred correspondence language:

NjemaËki / German

Engleski / English

Ovisno o državi koja se prikazuje u Vašoj adresi, moguÊe je da Êete moÊi odabrati jezik od njih nekoliko dodatnih. Jezik korespondencije može varirati ovisno o mediju. Kako biste provjerili svoj raËun ili ažurirali svoj profil, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com/myprofile. / Based on the country shown in your address, additional languages may be available for you to choose from. The language of correspondence may vary depending on the medium. To check your account status or to update your profile, please visit miles-and-more.com/myprofile. Sudjelovanje u frequent flyer progamu Miles and More je podložno Pravilima i Uvjetima. Kako biste proËitali trenutna Pravila i Uvjete, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com. Registracija u Miles & More programu je besplatna. / Participation in the Miles & More frequent flyer program is subject to the Terms & Conditions. To read the current Terms & Conditions, please visit miles-and-more.com. Registration in the Miles & More program is free of charge. * Imate pravo bilo kad povuÊi svoj pristanak, djelomiËno ili u cijelosti, tako da ažurirate svoj Miles & More profil online ili da nazovete Miles & More Servisni Centar na broj: 072 220 220 ili +49-69-66 10 23 30 10. Vaši dodatni komentari, za koje ne postoji predvien prostor, neÊe biti uzeti u obzir. / You have the right to revoke your consent at any time, inwhole or in part, by updating your Miles & More profile online or by calling the Miles & More Service Center at +49 - 69 - 66 10 23 30 10. Unfortunately all supplementary notes can not be considered.

Datum / Date

Potpis / Signature

Jednostavno je prijaviti se za Ëlanstvo: • preko interneta na web stranici www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • poπtom • telefaksom na broj +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 • kod osoblja u zrakoplovu Bit Êe nam zadovoljstvo ubiljeæiti Vam milje za trenutaËni let kao i za bilo koji drugi let koji ste ostvarili u posljednjih 6 mjeseci s Croatia Airlinesom, kompanijom Lufthansa ili nekim drugim partnerom u programu. Molimo Vas da gore unesete podatke o trenutaËnom letu. Retroaktivno ubiljeæavanje milja za druge letove moæete zatraæiti na stranici www.miles-and-more.com. Molimo Vas da uvijek Ëuvate originalnu kartu za ulazak u zrakoplov (boarding pass) i kopiju putne karte dok Vam se milje ne ubiljeæe na raËun.

It’s so easy to register: • Online at www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • By fax +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200

• By post • With one of your flight attendants

We will be happy to credit your account with the miles for this flight and for any other flights taken in the last 6 months with Croatia Airlines, Lufthansa or another Miles & More partner. Enter your current flight above. To have the miles for the other flights credited to your account, go to www.miles-and-more.com. Please retain your original boarding card and passenger receipt (copy of your ticket) until the miles have been credited to your account.

Razred putovanja/ Service class

Klasa knjiæenja/ Booking class

Miles & More – veÊ sad poËnite prikupljati milje

Broj leta/

Flight number

Broj karte/

Miles & More – start collecting miles now

Document number

LUFTPOST

Prostor za marku.

PAR AVION PRIORITAIRE

Please affix stamp here.

RÉPONSE PUBLICITAIRE/ANTWORT ALLEMAGNE Miles & More Postfach 14 34 33309 Gütersloh ALLEMAGNE

»im se poËnete koristiti svojom privremenom karticom Miles & More, milje Êe Vam se biljeæiti na raËun. Molimo Vas da pri svakoj rezervaciji navedete broj svoje kartice Miles & More. Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. Milje za danaπnji let bit Êe Vam ubiljeæene na raËun ako na prednju stranu unesete sve potrebne podatke o letu.

Ime/First name

Miles will start landing in your account immediately after you start to use your temporary Miles & More Card. Please remember to state your personal Miles & More number every time you make a reservation. You will receive your proper Miles & More Card once you have collected one mile.

Prezime/Surname

We will credit the miles for your current flight to your account once you have provided all the details of the current flight on the front.

Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. We will send you your regular Miles & More Card as soon as you have earned one mile.

Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda − jednostavno

Collect award miles ever ywhere − simply pay

plaÊajte svojom Diners Club kar ticom na bilo ko-

with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC

jemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji

of ﬁces in Croatia or abroad

i inozemstvu. n

Osvojite joπ viπe milja − koriπtenje ostalih pogod-

Collect ex tra award miles − by using other Diners

nosti Diners Cluba poput besplatnih online usluga,

Club beneﬁts, such as free online ser vices, internet

e-plaÊa nja ili trajnih naloga donosi vam dodatne

banking and e-paying, standing orders etc.

milje. n

2 kar tice − 1 raËun Miles & More − koristite li se

2 cre dit car ds − 1 Miles & More mem ber ship

istodobno privatnom i poslovnom kar ticom Diners

account − use your private and business card to col-

Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje

lect award miles on the same membership account.

zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More. Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card!

karticu!

Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA

Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia

Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business

Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu.

and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile

Potroπnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim

for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards

karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a

whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via compan-

za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko

ion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be

kartica u paru 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.

credited to your account.

Zatraæite svoju Croatia Airlines American Express

Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express

kreditnu kar ticu! n

4 kune = 1 nagradna milja − za svake 4 kune po-

credit card! n

4 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 4 HRK spent

troπene preko Premium kar tice biljeæi se 1 nagradna

via Premium card, you collect 1 award mile, and

milja, odnosno za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko

for every 5 HRK spent via Standard card you col-

Standard kar tice n

2500 milja dobrodoπlice − za nove osnovne Pre-

lect 1 mile. n

2.500 welcome miles − for new basic Premium

mium korisnike i 1250 milja dobrodoπlice za nove

card users and 1.250 welcome miles for new addi-

dodatne Premium korisnike

tional Premium card users.

1500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard

korisnike i 750 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Standard korisnike n

Dvostruke nagradne milje − za potroπnju u poslov-

1.500 welcome miles − for new basic Standard

card users and 750 welcome miles for new additional Standard card users. n

Earn double award miles − using the card to pay

nicama Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travel American

for travels at Croatia Airlines sales of ﬁces and PBZ

Expressa

Card Travel American Expressa.

UËlanjenje u Priority Pass bez naknade te pristup

Free Priority Pass enrollment- it enables you to

u viπe od 450 VIP salona u zraËnim lukama

access into more than 450 VIP airport lounges.

Ra zredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti

Tiers and beneﬁts

Koriπtenjem usluga par tnera u Miles & More progra-

By using the Miles & More par tners’ ser vices mem-

mu prikupljate nagradne milje koje zamjenjujete za

bers collect award miles, which are traded in for

nagrade i statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski

awards; and status miles, which determine a mem-

status, na temelju kojeg ostvarujete pogodnosti.

ber’s membership status and privileges.

Statu sne mi lje pri kup lja ju se re dovi tim letovi ma.

Status miles can be accrued on scheduled ﬂights.

Svaka tako ostvarena milja biljeæi se i kao statusna

Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status

i kao nagradna milja.

and an award mile.

Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalen-

With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar

darskoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller,

year members earn the Frequent Traveller status,

a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini

with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and

oËe kuje vas status Se nator. »lanovi koji prikupe

members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle

najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u ra zdoblju od

miles within two consecutive calendar years, earn

dvije uzastopne kalendarske godine, stje Ëu status

the HON Circle status.

HON Circle. CROATIA AIRLINES

173

Pogodnosti statusa Fre quent Traveller

Frequent Traveller privileges

- Executive Bonus − 25 posto više milja

- Executive Bonus of 25 per cent more miles

- neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja

- Accrued award miles have no expiry date

statusa

- Waiting list priority

- prednost na listi Ëekanja

- Check-in at the Luf thansa Business Class counter

- prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog razreda

- Free baggage allowance of 40 kg depending on

- 40 kg prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i

the destination and the airline

zrakoplovnoj kompaniji

If piece concept is applicable 2 bags in total

Ako je rijeË o komadnom prijevozu prtljage, 2 komada

(Economy or Business) and 3 bags in the First

u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu, a 3 u prvom

Class

razredu putovanja Pogodnosti statusa Senator

- Executive Bonus of 25 per cent more miles

- neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za traja-

- Accrued award miles have no expiry date

nja statusa

- 50,000 miles in advance

- predujam od 50.000 milja

- Access to the Luf thansa Senator Lounge as well as

- uporaba Luf thansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold

to the Star Gold Lounges of Star Alliance par tners

Lounge par tnera u Star Allianceu

- High waiting list priority

- viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja

- First Class check-in

- prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog ra zreda

- Booking guarantee up to 48 hours before depar-

- osigurano mjesto na letu za rezer vacije do 48 sati u

ture in the highest booking class in Business and

najvišoj ekonomskoj i najvišoj poslovnoj klasi

Economy class

- dodatnih 20 kg ili dodatni komad prtljage bez na-

- Additional 20 kg baggage allowance or an ad-

plate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji

ditional bag depending on the destination and the

- komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonom-

airline

skom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu

- Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and

- dva e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja

4 in the First Class

(upgrade), te dva vauËera prilikom svake obnove

- 2 e- Upgrade Vouchers and two e-vouchers each

statusa.

time the status is renewed.

- Senator Premium Award

Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle

HON Circle privileges

- sve pogodnosti statusa Se nator

- All existing Senator privileges

- Exe cutive Bonus od 25 posto

- Executive bonus of 25 per cent

- predujam od 100.000 milja

- 100,000 miles in advance

- Status Se nator za supruænika ili par tnera, ovisno

- Senator status for your spouse or par tner depend-

o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji

ing on the airline

- šest e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putova-

- 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers and 6 every time the status

nja (upgrade) te šest prilikom zadržavanja statusa

is renewed

- dodatne pogodnosti koje nude par tneri programa

- Additional beneﬁts of fered by Miles & More par-

osiguravajuÊi jedinstveno iskustvo putovanja

tners, rounding off the travel experience

- komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonom-

- Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and

skom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu

4 in the First Class

Troπite milje

Spend miles

Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge

You can exchange collected award miles for awards

nagrade: nagradne karte, premjeπtaj u viπi razred puto-

prepared for you: award tickets, upgrades, various

vanja (upgrade), ra zliËite nagrade kojima se moæete

travel awards.

koristiti pri putovanju (hotelski smjeπtaj, unajmljiva-

Please ﬁnd detailed info at:

nje vozila).

www.miles-and-more.com

Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com

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CROATIA AIRLINES

Senator privileges

- Exe cutive Bonus − 25 posto više milja

THE MOST LOVED CROATIAN BEER

Ask your ﬂight attendant for a cold Ožujsko

CROATIA AIRLINES

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CROATIA AIRLINES NOVOSTI

CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS mufﬁn s naljepnicom Lucky winner, dobitnici su nagrade - dvije karte za neko od odredišta Croatia Airlinesa po izboru. Na kraju su se nagraeni putnici mogli fotograﬁrati s posadom i u cockpitu. U znak zahvale putnicima za dosadaπnje povjerenje, Croatia Airlines u povodu 25. roendana organizira joπ i niz drugih nagradnih aktivnosti − nagradne natjeËaje, izloæbu i mnoga druga dogaanja. Viπe informacija o dogaanjima moæete pronaÊi na www.croatiaairlines.hr. CROATIA AIRLINES’ BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION

PREVEZLI SMO MILIJUNTOG PUTNIKA U 2014. GODINI

Dana 28. srpnja 2014. zabiljeæili smo naπega milijuntog putnika u ovoj godini. Ovogodiπnja je jubilarna putnica Jelena NinËeviÊ, a zabiljeæena je na letu OU475 iz Pariza u Split. Ovogodiπnji milijunti putnik Croatia Airlinesa zabiljeæen je otprilike u isto vrijeme kao i lani, a dosadaπnji prometni uËinci u 2014. godini takoer se kreÊu na lanjskoj razini. Sretnoj putnici darovali smo dvije besplatne povratne zrakoplovne karte po izboru za jedno od naπih odrediπta, a poklon-bon darovala joj je ZraËna luka Split. Podsjetimo, od prvog komercijalnog leta, koji je obavljen 5. svibnja 1991. izmeu Zagreba i Splita, do danas, zrakoplovi tvrtke obavili su oko 469.000 letova i ukupno prevezli gotovo 29,000.000 putnika. Od toga je oko 20 milijuna prevezeno na meunarodnim letovima, a oko 9 milijuna na letovima unutar Hrvatske. MILLIONTH PASSENGER IN 2014 TRANSPORTED

On 28 July 2014, we recorded Croatia Airlines’ millionth passenger this year − Jelena NinËeviÊ flying from Paris to Split on flight OU475. This year’s millionth passenger flying with Croatia Airlines was recorded around the same time as last year and the current traffic results in 2014 are also at last year’s level. The lucky traveller was rewarded with two return tickets to one of our destinations of her choice and a gift certificate sponsored by Split Airport. 176

CROATIA AIRLINES

It is worth reminding ourselves that, since the first commercial flight which took place on 5 May 1991 between Zagreb and Split to date, the company’s aircraft has accumulated approximately 469,000 flights having transported a total of nearly 29,000,000 passengers. Of these, 20 million were transported on international flights, and about 9 million on flights within Croatia. CROATIA AIRLINES SLAVI RO–ENDAN

Ove godine naπa nacionalna zrakoplovna kompanija slavi 25. obljetnicu osnutka. U povodu obiljeæavanja 25 godina Croatia Airlinesa, 7. kolovoza 2014., na letu OU416 iz Zagreba u Frankfurt nagradili smo petoro putnika. Pet najsretnijih na letu, koji su izvukli

This year, Croatia Airlines is celebrating its 25th birthday. To mark the 25 th anniversary of Croatia Airlines, on 7 August 2014, five passengers were rewarded on flight OU416 from Zagreb to Frankfurt. The five luckiest passengers on the flight drew muffins with a Lucky Winner label, each winning two tickets to a Croatia Airlines destination of their choice. In the end, the winning passengers could also take pictures with the crew in the cockpit. In gratitude to our travellers’ trust, Croatia Airlines is organising a series of activities to reward our consumers − competitions,

exhibitions and many other events. More information about the events is available at www.croatiaairlines.hr. NOVI TERMINAL 2 U ZRA»NOJ LUCI LONDON HEATHROW

Novi Terminal 2, dom Star Alliancea u zraËnoj luci Heathrow, otvorio je svoja vrata za dobrodoπlicu prvim putnicima, Ëime je poËelo novo iskustvo putovanja za 12 milijuna putnika Star Alliancea, koji na godiπnjoj razini prolaze kroz vodeÊu zraËnu luku Ujedinjenog Kraljevstva. Sve Ëlanice Star Alliancea, koje posluju na Heathrowu, preselit Êe se u novi terminal i tako Êe prvi put biti prisutne na istome mjestu u jednoj zraËnoj luci. Croatia Airlines preselit Êe u novi terminal 15. listopada ove godine. Kad se svi avioprijevoznici smjeste u ovom objektu, moguÊnosti prikljuËnih letova za transferna putovanja bit Êe jednostavnije nego ikad prije u Heathrowu. OËekuje se da Êe veliko Ëvoriπte Star Alliancea u Heathrowu biti katalizator rasta globalnoga putniËkog prometa prema Londonu i poveÊati privlaËnost Heathrowa kao meunarodne transferne zraËne luke. NEW TERMINAL 2 AT LONDON’S HEATHROW AIRPORT

The new Terminal 2, the home of Star Alliance at Heathrow Airport, has opened its doors to welcome its first passengers. 12 million Star Alliance passengers, which is how many pass through the largest airport in the United Kingdom annually, will now be given a new experience of travelling. All the members of Star Alliance operating at Heathrow will be moving to the new Terminal, making them all be present at the same place in an airport. Being a Star Alliance member, Croatia Airlines is moving to the new Terminal on 15 October this year. When all the airline companies settle at Terminal 2, catching connecting flights will be easier than ever before at Heathrow Airport. It is expected that this Star Alliance hub at Heathrow will be a catalyst for growth in international passenger traffic to London and increase the attractiveness of Heathrow as an international transfer airport. CROATIA AIRLINES

177

Sluπalice za suzbijanje buke Digitalni audio/MP3 ureaj n ElektroniËke igre n e-ËitaË n Prijenosna/Notebook raËunala n Prijenosni DVD/CD ureaj n Bluetooth ureaji n Kamere n Medicinski ureaji n ElektriËni brijaÊi aparat n

Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike ekonomskog razreda: 1 komad n maksimalna teæina 8 kg n zbroj dimenzija do 115 cm (55x40x20) Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike poslovnog razreda: 2 komada n maksimalna teæina 8 kg po komadu n zbroj dimenzija maksimalno 115 cm (55x40x20) ili 57x54x15cm (etui za odijela) Radi ograniËenog spremiπnog prostora u putniËkoj kabini te kada je veÊa popunjenost zrakoplova, i dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga bit Êe Ëekirana i spremljena u prtljaæni prostor.

PO©TOVANI PUTNICI! Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima. Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije. UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi. RED SJEDENJA

UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima. PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja. Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta. ELEKTRONIČKI URE AJI U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI Upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja dopuπtena je iskljuËivo u zrakoplovnom radu, teæe i veÊe ureaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je upaljen znak obveznog vezivanja. Popis dopuπtenih elektroniËkih naprava: n Mobilni/Smart telefoni n Tablet raËunala

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva. USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U naπim zrakoplovima posluæujemo hranu i napitke bez naplate. U poslovnom razredu na svim letovima usluga ukljuËuje birana hrvatska jela, alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te izbor domaÊega i stranog tiska. U ekonomskom razredu usluga ovisi o vrsti i duljini leta. Na domaÊim letovima posluæuje se samo voda, a na meunarodnim letovima usluga se sastoji od snacka i ponude piÊa. Na veoma kratkim letovima putnicima nudimo samo vodu, a na duljim letovima u ponudi su alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te topli napitci. IskljuËivo u poslovnom razredu moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed (vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed). Putnicima nije dopuπteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Alkoholiziranim putnicima ne posluæuju se alkoholna piÊa. Puπenje je zabranjeno tijekom boravka u zrakoplovu. Toaleti su opremljeni detektorima dima. ■

Faze leta u kojima je dopuštena upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo.

Faze leta

Mobilni/ Smart telefoni, Tablet

Prijenosno Sluπalice za raËunalo suzbijanje buke

Funkcija teksta/razgovora

Ukrcavanje

Kaπnjenje u polasku

Taxiranje za polijetanje

DA*

Polijetanje

DA*

Tijekom leta

Spuπtanje

DA*

Slijetanje

DA*

Taksiranje

DA*

*U navedenim fazama nije dopuπteno rabiti sluπalice prikljuËene na audio/MP3 ureaje 178

CROATIA AIRLINES

ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our ﬁrst and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests. With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services. Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inﬂight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole ﬂight. Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the ﬂight.

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking ﬂights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.

Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing. HAND BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE Economy Class passengers: 1 piece n max. weight 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) Business Class passengers: 2 pieces n max. weight per piece 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) or 57x54x15cm if it is a foldable garment bag Due to a limited storage space and when a flight is fully booked even approved carry-on baggage will be checked-in and stowed in cargo compartments. SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s

e-Readers Laptop/Notebook computers n Portable DVD/CD player n Bluetooth devices n Personal cameras n Assistive medical devices n Electric shaver n

RESTRICTED ITEMS The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage. Such items are: explosives, ﬂammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons, ﬁrearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers. IN-FLIGHT SERVICES

Please read the instructions below, important for your safety and comfort during the ﬂight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your ﬂight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

SEAT ASSIGNMENT

PERSONAL ELECTRONIC DEVICES Electronic devices may only be used if they are in ﬂight mode. Bulky personal electronic devices must be securely stowed whenever the seat belt sign is turned on. List of approved personal electronic devices: n Mobile/Smart phones n Tablet computers n Noise-cancelling headphones n Digital audio/MP3 player n Electronic games

We serve food and beverages free of charge in our aircraft. In business class on all flights the services include a choice of Croatian foods, alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, as well as a choice of domestic and foreign print media. Our services in economy class depend on the type and length of the flight. On domestic flights we serve only water, and on international flights our services include snacks and an offer of beverages. On very short flights our passengers are offered only water, and on longer flights they are offered alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages as well as hot drinks. In business class only you can order a special meal when purchasing your tickets, however, this must be done at least 24 hours ahead (vegetarian, Muslim, diet, but kosher meals must be ordered 48 hours ahead). Passengers are not allowed to consume their own alcoholic beverages. Passengers that are considered under the influence of alcohol are not served alcoholic beverages. smoking is forbidden in the aircraft. The toilets are equipped with smoke detectors. ■

Use of electronic devices during different ﬂight phases Flight phase

Hand Held PEDs (i.e. smart phones and tablets)

Larger PEDs (i.e. Laptops and notebooks)

Noisecancelling Headphones

Text and phone functions

Boarding

YES

Extended Ground Delay

YES

Taxi-out for Take-off

YES

YES*

Take-off

YES

YES*

Cruise

YES

Descent

YES

YES*

Landing

YES

YES*

Taxi to Stand

YES

YES*

YES

*During critical phases of ﬂight headphones must not be plugged to audio/MP3 players. CROATIA AIRLINES

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CROATIA AIRLINES

FLOTA

FLEET Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

174

144

Airbus 320-200 Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Airbus 319-100 Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Dash 8-Q400 Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking. CROATIA AIRLINES

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NAJSVJETLIJE BOJE - PREMA MIŠLJENJU 98% ISPITANIKA*

Poslovni projektori Epson Nitko ne prodaje više projektora od Epsona. Zbog čega? Zbog jarkog svjetla. Za mjerenje snage projektora koristimo metodu Color Light Output (CLO) umjesto mjerenja samo bijelog svjetla. Visoka CLO vrijednost znači da su sve boje jarke. Do tri puta jarkije u odnosu na DLP projektore s jednim čipom*. Slijedeći puta kada ćete nabavljati poslovni projektor provjerite njegovu CLO vrijednost i odaberite onaj koji daje doista jarku, lijepu sliku. Više informacija na www.epson.hr/CLO *Podatak “slijepog” testiranja naspram pet vodećih konkurentskih DLP modela s jednim čipom. Za više informacija o testiranju, CLO mjerenju te o 3x jarkijim bojama, kliknite na www.epson.hr/CLO

182

CROATIA AIRLINES

A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

•

TRONDHEIM

USA NEW YORK WASHINGTON

BERGEN

St. Petersburg STAVANGER

Aberdeen Edinburg Belfast Dublin

Manchester

VILNIUS GDANSK

Kassel DUSSELDORF

POZNAN

Chisinau LYON

Turin

PORTO

VENICE

Genoa Madrid

RIJEKA

OSIJEK BELGRADE Bucharest

BRA» BARCELONA

Podgorica Bari Tirana

Palermo Catania

ATHENS

Beirut Damascus TEL AVIV Jerusalem Amman Q linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines’ services

Q u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama

in cooperation with partner airline

Partneri / Partners:

Alitalia

Brussels Airlines

United Airlines CROATIA AIRLINES

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CROATIA AIRLINES

ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

ZAGREB AIRPORT

Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21

International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

2 Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7

Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike

Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima

Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

P C

Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A”

Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”

i S B

Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte

TAKSI BUS

CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije

Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

Restaurant Faust VranËi Ê

Panoramic View Panoramski pogled

Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila

Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica

Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica

Coffee Bar Kavana

Customs Control Carinska kontrola

Bar

Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina

Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks)

Newstand Novinarnica

Baggage Prtljaga

Passport Control Kontrola putovnica

Shops Prodavaonice

i i

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.

5.00 9.00 13.30 17.30

U DUBROVNIKU autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 75 minuta prije leta. Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova.

ZAGREB − Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 8.00 8.30 9.00 9.30 10.30 11.30 12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30 14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30 16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30 18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30 20.00

In DUBROVNIK airport buses leave 90 minutes before the ﬂight, and in ZADAR 75 minutes before the ﬂight. The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing. Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) − Zagreb (zraËna luka) − Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) − Rijeka − Polazak u 15.30 sati.

Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) − Zagreb Airport − Departure at 5.00. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport − Rijeka − Departure at 15.30.

Flight Information Informacije o letovima Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije

ZAGREB − Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb: Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb: 5.30 10.00 14.00 18.00

6.00 10.30 14.30 18.30

6.30 11.00 15.00 19.00

7.00 11.30 15.30 19.30

7.30 12.00 16.00 20.00

8.00 12.30 16.30

8.30 13.00 17.00

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, 098 472-539, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn. The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas. Autobusi iz ZAGREBA polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova. Bus departures in ZAGREB are an hour and a half prior for domestic ﬂights and two hours prior for international ﬂights.

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WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL? Dragi putnici!

Zahvaljujemo na lijepim fotografijama koje nam redovito πaljete s vaπih putovanja. Svako godiπnje doba ima svoje prednosti, a neka vam najljepπe boje jeseni budu inspiracija za prekrasne fotografije. ©aljite nam svoje fotografije uz jednu reËenicu u kojoj objaπnjavate zaπto volite putovati i sudjelujte u naπem nagradnom natjeËaju. Pobjednika Êemo nagraditi s dvije povratne aviokarte po izboru za neko od odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa, dok Êe dva dobitnika primiti poklon-pakete. Fotografiju autorice Snjeæane BionËina odabrali smo kao najbolju u ovome broju te je nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa. Promidæbenim poklon-paketom nagradit Êemo Kseniju ©koriÊ i Irmu Podoreπki. I dalje vas pozivamo da nam πaljete vaπe fotografije s neobiËnih i zanimljivih mjesta s putovanja, jer i u iduÊem broju oËekuju vas vrijedne nagrade. Posjetite naπu web stranicu www.croatiaairlines. hr (Ponude/Nagradne igre i natjeËaji), pogledajte uvjete nagradnog natjeËaja i sudjelujte!

Snjeæana BionËina

Dear passengers!

Ksenija ©koriÊ

Irma Podoreπki

Æivot je kratak, a na putovanjima otkrivam sebe. Life is short and when travelling I get to discover myself.

Thank you for the wonderful photographs you have been sending us from your travels. Each season has its advantages, so we hope that the amazing colours of autumn will inspire you to take breathtaking photographs. Send us your photographs accompanied by a sentence in which you explain why you like travelling and take part in the photograph contest. We will award the ﬁrst prize winner with two return tickets on Croatia Airlines to a destination of your choice, while the second and third place winners will receive promotional packages. We have selected Snjeæana BionËina as the author of the best photograph in this issue; she is the winner of two Croatia Airlines return air tickets. Ksenija ©koriÊ and Irma Podoreπki have won our promotional packages. We would like to invite you to continue sending us your photographs from unusual and interesting places you have visited during your travels because valuable rewards await you in the next issue, too. Visit our webpage www.croatiaairlines.hr (Offers/Contests and competitions), check the conditions, and take part in the contest!

PutujuÊi otkrivam ljepotu skrivenih detalja. While travelling, I get to discover the beauty of hidden details.

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CROATIA AIRLINES

Putovati volim zato πto mogu vidjeti koliko malo za sreÊu treba. I like travelling because I can see just how little one needs to be happy.

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ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 6160 153 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/uprava@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 072-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 18:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 15:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept. Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 072 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Brojevi telefonskog check-ina / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Bruxelles 1930 Zaventem/Brussels Airport Box 31 Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik ZraËna luka/Airport Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt 60 313 Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London Concorde North Wing, Gatwick Airport Room 332, West Sussex RH6 0DW Tel. (+44-20) 8563-0022, Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615 Airport Heathrow, Terminal 1, Zone H Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-4683 Fax (+44-20) 8754-7377 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr München 85 356 München Flughafen/Airport Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Ebene 4. Büro 4.1319 Tel. (+49-89) 975-92-730 Fax (+49-89) 975-92-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr

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CROATIA AIRLINES

ADDRESSES Paris 95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Roissypôle Le Dôme, Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-40-00 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-55-11 parto@croatiaairlines.hr Pula ZraËna luka/Airport Pula Valtursko polje 210, 52 100 Ližnjan Tel. (+385-52) 218-909, 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka 51 000 Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5 Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma 00054 Fiumicino Aeroporto/Airport Leonardo da Vinci Torre Ufﬁci 2, room 518 Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo 71 000 Sarajevo ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skopje 1000 Skopje ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 3296-967, 3296-969 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split 21 000 Split ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar 23 000 Zadar ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb 10 000 Zagreb Trg Nikole Š, Zrinskog 17 Tel. (+385-1) 481--96-33 Fax (+385-1) 481-96-32 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Meunarodna zraËna luka Zagreb/ Zagreb International Airport Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 62-65-930 Zürich Hardstrasse 2, 8004 Zürich Tel. (+41-44) 2610-840 Fax (+41-44) 2610-883 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe »eπka CK Blue Sky Travel Opletalova 57, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. +420 222 222 235 Fax +420 222 220 237 czech@croatiaairlines.hr GrËka / Greece Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str., 105 57 Athens Tel. +30 210 32 17 679, 32 17 750 Fax +30 210 32 49 152 greece@croatiaairlines.hr

Kosovo Airtour Bill Clinton 32, 10031 Prishtina Tel. +381 38 233 833 Fax +381 38 245 845 kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr Airtour Prishtina International Airport Tel. +381 38 594 111 Fax +381 38 594 222 kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr Portugal ATR - Actividades Turisticas e Representações Av. D. João II, Lt. 1.16.1 - 8º Andar, 1990-083 Lisboa Tel. +351 21 761 89 80 Fax +351 21 425 24 12 croatiaairlines@atr.co.pt SlovaËka CK Blue Sky Travel Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel./fax +421 2 5262 2375 slovakia@croatiaairlines.hr Španjolska / Spain Global Representacion Turistica / GRT c/Valencia, 266, 4, 1, 08007 Barcelona Tel. +34 934 875 775 Fax +34 934 880 121 spain@croatiaairlines.hr Turska ZENITH Services Ordu Caddesi, No. 12/1, Laleli Fatih 34134 Istanbul Tel. +90 212 513 2667, gsm +90 533 738 8470 Fax +90 212 512 4234 turkey@croatiaairlines.hr ZENITH Services Istanbul Ataturk Airport Tel. +90 212 465 5023 Fax +90 212 465 4092 turkey@croatiaairlines.hr Bliski istok Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda Street, Migdalor blgd. 12th ﬂoor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. +972 3 516 7181, 516 7140 Fax +972 3 516 7174 israel@croatiaairlines.hr Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. +61 3 9699-9355, Fax +61 3 9699-9388 lidia@skyair.biz Novi Zeland / New Zealand CTtravel Limited NZ PO Box 104-056, Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Rd. Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. +64 9 837 9897 Fax +64 9 837 9898 croatiaairlines@cttravel.co.nz Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo, 105-0001 Japan Tel. +81 3 3593 6740 Fax +81 3 3593 6534 asipaxtyo@airsystem.jp Koreja / Korea Bohram Air Services 7F, Donghwa Bldg, 58-7 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: +82 2 754 6336 Fax: +82 2 779 8795 customersupport@croatiaairlines.co.kr Tajvan, Kina, Hong Kong / Taiwan, China, Hong Kong Paciﬁc Express Company Limited 8F, No 137, Nanking E. Road Sec. 2, Taipei, Taiwan, R.O.C. Tel: +886 2 2515 2371 Fax: +886 2 2515 3463 pcpnexpr@ms23.hinet.net

bluesun hotel kaj, Marija Bistrica

Hidden oasis of beauty in the heartland of Croatia...

Coordinates: 16.11907, 46.00427

High-end quality accommodation and culinary experience: boutique hotel concept (luxury rooms, exclusive hotel restaurants, internationally renowned chef, wine cellar, wellness & spa, conference facilities...) Marija Bistrica famous Marian Shrine for pilgrims Croatian Chateau Experience: Ethno Homesteads & Old Craft Workshops Attractions (medieval castles from the Habsburg era, Neandertalland excavation site and a museum) Wine roads, meadow biking

tel.+385 49 326 600 kaj@bluesunhotels.com www.hotelkaj.hr www.facebook.com/HotelKaj

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Elegant luxury for the ultimate Dubrovnik holiday Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel 5*

www.valamar.com

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