Inflight magazine CROATIA - autumn 2012 by Croatia Airlines

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INFLIGHT MAGAZINE

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» A S O P I S

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I N F L I G H T

A U T U M N

JESEN

VA© VLASTITI PRIMJERAK

M A G A Z I N E

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YOUR PERSONAL COPY

AUTUMN 2012

ALWAYS A GREAT STAY Everything you need, plus the style and extras you love. Get what you’re looking for with the style and service you want, all at the great price. We have what matters most to you like a comfortable bed, free Internet and much more. Wheather you’re in town for work or just for fun, you’re in for a great stay with us.

Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Zagreb Hotel BOOK NOW ON FOURPOINTSRES.ZAGREB@FOURPOINTS.COM, HOTEL-FOURPOINTSPANORAMA.COM OR FOURPOINTS.COM/ZAGREB OR CALL +385 1 3658 333

GREAT HOTELS. GREAT RATES.

©2012 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All rights reserved. Aloft, Element, Four Points, Le Méridien, Sheraton, St. Regis, The Luxury Collection, W, Westin and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its afﬁliates. For full terms and conditions, visit fourpoints.com/emeryville. Any additional terms and conditions should be placed here.

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Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Krešimir KuËko

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ

Urednik fotograﬁje/Chief in photos Damir FabijaniÊ Roman Gebauer, Miljen

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ PrliÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Direktorica marketinga/ Director Marketing

Sa zadovoljstvom vas pozdravljam u našem zrakoplovu i zahvaljujem πto ste odabrali Croatia Airlines za partnera pri putovanju. Kako bi vaš let protekao πto ugodnije, neprekidno unapreenje kvalitete usluge naπ je trajni prioritet. Upravo je u tijeku izrada plana restrukturiranja tvrtke, koji Êe, vjerujemo, takoer tome pridonijeti. U skladu s potrebnim promjenama, 1. rujna preuzeo sam duænost predsjednika Uprave Croatia Airlinesa, potpuno svjestan da ste upravo vi, naπi putnici, naπa najveÊa dragocjenost. Zbog toga Êemo uËiniti sve πto je moguÊe kako bismo vam i u ovim izazovnim vremenima pruæili uslugu na najviπoj razini. Za zrakoplovstvo okolnosti su uistinu zahtjevne, jer suoËeni smo s velikim rizicima daljnjeg poveÊanja cijena nafte i ﬁnancijskom krizom u dijelu eurozone. UnatoË tomu zrakoplovna industrija daje golemi poticaj globalnom gospodarstvu, a suvremene ekonomije prepoznale su moÊ zrakoplovstva u stvaranju radnih mjesta i poticanju ekonomskog rasta. U tom kontekstu naπa Êe tvrtka i dalje pruæati potporu razvoju hrvatskog turizma, kao vrlo vaæne gospodarske grane, nastojeÊi se pritom πto bolje pozicionirati na træiπtu unapreenjem vlastite konkurentske pozicije. Primjerice, jedna od pogodnosti, koje vam od rujna nudimo, jest moguÊnost koriπtenja mobilnom verzijom naπe web stranice, kako bismo vam πto viπe olakπali planiranje putovanja naπim zrakoplovima, ma gdje se nalazili. A dok letite u neko od naπih odrediπta, vjerujemo da Êete se opustiti prelistate li jesenski broj putnog Ëasopisa, koji je upravo pred vama. U jesenskom broju nudimo vam obilje zanimljivih tema a, kao srediπnju, πetnju Hrvatskim zagorjem, u rijeËi i slici. Nadamo se da Êete u njoj uæivati, kao i u letu naπim zrakoplovom. Hvala vam πto ste nam darovali povjerenje. Radujem se ponovnom susretu s vama na nekom od naπih letova, a dotad æelim vam svako dobro u privatnome i poslovnom æivotu.

Zlata PrpiÊ

Dear passengers, Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek

Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o. Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26

It is my pleasure to welcome you aboard Croatia Airlines. We would like to take this opportunity to thank you once again for choosing Croatia Airlines as your carrier of choice. In order to make your in-ﬂight experience a more pleasant one, we have made the continuous improvement of our services a priority. With this in mind, Croatia Airlines is in the process of drafting a restructuring plan, which we believe wholeheartedly will contribute to a heightened level of quality. In accordance with these changes, effective September 1st, I assumed the duties of the President and CEO of Croatia Airlines, fully aware that you, our passengers, are our most precious asset. The utmost is being

D. FabijaniÊ

Poπtovani putnici!

done to ensure that our customers are offered services of the highest quality, especially during these hard economic times. Doing business in the air traffic industry has become extremely challenging due to the high risk of increasing oil prices and the current financial crisis in a part of the Eurozone. Despite this, the air traffic industry gives enormous impetus to the global economy, and modern economies have recognised the power of the air traffic industry in the creation of new jobs, which in turn, has encouraged economic growth. Within this context, our airline will continue to provide support in the development of Croatian tourism, a very important branch of the economy, as well as put effort into positioning our company on the market by improving our competitiveness. For instance, one of the benefits offered to you from September on, is the possibility of using the mobile telephone version of our web page, so that we can help you plan your travels via Croatia Airlines, wherever you are. During your flight to any one of our destinations, we believe you will find it quite relaxing to sit back and flip through the autumn issue of our travel magazine, in front of you at this very moment. Offering you an abundance of interesting articles and pictures, the autumn issue focuses on the Croatian Zagorje. We hope you enjoy our magazine as well as your flight on our aircraft. Thank you for your trust and loyalty. I look forward to meeting you again on one of our future flights. Until then, my staff and I wish you the best, both personally and professionally.

Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec

Vaš, Sincerely yours,

Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

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■ SADRÆAJ 6

Razgovor: Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ

OBITELJ I UMJETNOST, TO SU MOJE SVETINJE Njezina velika pjevaËka i glumaËka sugestivnost podjednako opËinjava publiku i kritiËare. Mezzosopranistica Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ, prvakinja ZagrebaËke opere, danomice niæe blistave nastupe na opernim i koncertnim pozornicama… 16 Okusi Hrvatske: Zagorje

OKUSI ZAGORJA… Projektom Okusi Hrvatske kroËimo dalje kroz hrvatske predjele i predstavljamo Hrvatsko zagorje na sjeverozapadu naπe domovime. 20 Gastronomija

NEODOLJIVA ZAGORSKA GASTROPRI»A Nekadaπnja glavna odlika Hrvatskoga zagorja, spoj malo zemlje i mnogo djece, u kuhinji se premetnula u izrazito maπtovito pripremanje jela, takoreÊi ni od Ëega. 30 Enologija

ZAGORSKA VINA U ovome kutku Hrvatske, prekrivenom bezbrojnim bregovima, raaju se atraktivna i mirisna, osvjeæavajuÊa vina. 40 Kontinentalna Hrvatska

ZELENA BAJKA NA DLANU Æivot u Hrvatskom zagorju, kao i u zagorskim gradiÊima, moæe se opisati kao æivot po mjeri Ëovjeka. Zagorski su gradiÊi slikovite cjeline bogate kulturnom baπtinom, a ima uistinu mnogo onih koji su vrijedni posjeta. 72 Zagreb

KULA LOTR©»AK, NAJZAGREBA»KIJI SAT Kula LotrπËak jedna je od najznaËajnijih turistiËkih atrakcija grada Zagreba iz 13 st. S njezina se vrha pruæa najljepπi pogled na panoramu glavnoga grada Hrvatske. 80 Tradicija

KAVANE, ODMORI©TA IZME–U SVJETOVA Za njih ne trebate pratnju, jer uvijek ste u druπtvu, Ëak i onda kad za drugim stolovima nikoga ne poznajete. Tu ste nekako manje sami i kad ste posve sami. 100 Maritimna baština

JADRANSKI SVJETIONICI, VITEZOVI PU»INSKIH OBZORA Plovimo li noÊu i ne diæemo li pogled, nego ga dræimo u ravnini puËinskog obzorja, uvijek nanovo traæimo svjetlo, trag i znak raspuknuÊa tame koja nestaje. Svjetionici su baπtinici tog svjetla za kojim Ëezne pogled pomorca i promatraËa. 120 Naša odredišta

SRCA ZA BRUXELLES Muzeju MIM (Musical Instruments Museum) u Bruxellesu darovane su tamburice u obliku licitarskog srca, u kojima je oblikom i zvukom oæivljen genij hrvatskog sjevera. 144 Poznati u zrakoplovu

TRI ZLATA, JEDNO SREBRO I DVIJE BRONCE! Na Olimpijskim igrama u Londonu hrvatski sportaπi opet su potvrdili tezu o maloj zemlji za velike sportske dosege. 2

Jesen/Autumn 2012

www.croatiaairlines.com

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■ CONTENTS 6

Interview: Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ

FAMILY AND ART, THESE ARE THINGS I HOLD SACRED! Her striking singing and acting abilities mesmerize audiences and critics alike. Mezzo-soprano Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ, the prima donna of the Zagreb Opera, continues to give dazzling performances on operatic and concert stages… 16 Flavours of Zagorje

FLAVOURS OF ZAGORJE… Our Flavours of Croatia project continues its journey through Croatian regions and we present to you Croatian Zagorje in the north-west part of our country. 20 Gastronomy

AN IRRESISTIBLE GASTRONOMIC TALE OF ZAGORJE A characteristic of the Croatian Zagorje in the past has always been the combination of having little land and many mouths to feed, which left its residents preparing a very imaginative cuisine out of virtually nothing. 30 Oenology

THE WINES OF ZAGORJE In this corner of Croatia, covered in numerous hills, appealingly fragrant and refreshing wines are born. 40 Inland Croatia

A GREEN FAIRYTALE IN YOUR HAND Life in the Croatian Zagorje, as well as in its towns, can be best described as human-sized.Towns of Zagorje are picturesque urban entities, rich in cultural heritage, and many of them are really worth visiting. 72 Zagreb

THE LOTR©»AK TOWER − ZAGREB’S OLDEST CLOCK The LotrπËak Tower is one of the most important tourist attractions in the City of Zagreb from the 13th century. It offers the most beautiful panoramic views of Zagreb. 80 Tradition

CAFÉS, REST AREAS BETWEEN THE WORLDS You do not need to go with an escort, because you always have company there, even when there is nobody you know at any of the other tables. Here you are somehow less alone even when you are completely alone. 100 Maritime heritage

ADRIATIC LIGHT HOUSES, KNIGHTS OF THE HORIZONS IN THE OFFING While sailing at night, if we do not look up, but rather cast our gaze level with the horizon, we keep on looking for light, for a sign, for a glimpse of that place where darkness breaks up and starts disappearing. Lighthouses are knight-like ediﬁces, efﬁgies of light that sailors and observers. 120 Our destinations

HEARTS FOR BRUSSELS MIM, Musical Instruments Museum in Brussels has been donated Licitar heart-shaped tamburicas, which bring to life the genious of the Croatian North through shape and sound. 144 Celebrities on board

THREE GOLDS, ONE SILVER AND TWO BRONZE MEDALS! At the Olympic Games in London, Croatian athletes have once again proven the old adage ∑ a small country for great achievement in sport. 4

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak

This is your personal copy

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■ RAZGOVOR DUBRAVKA ©EPAROVIΔ MUŠOVIΔ

Piπe/By Zlatko Madžar

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Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

INTERVIEW DUBRAVKA ©EPAROVIΔ MUŠOVIΔ ■

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Mezzosopranistica Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ, prvakinja ZagrebaËke opere, danomice niæe blistave nastupe na opernim i koncertnim pozornicama domovine Hrvatske, istodobno ostvarujuÊi respektabilnu umjetniËku karijeru i na uglednim inozemnim scenama (BeË, Graz, Prag, Bratislava, Amsterdam, St. Gallen, Trier, Saarbrücken, Bonn…). Njezina velika pjevaËka i glumaËka sugestivnost podjednako opËinjava publiku i kritiËare, pa stoga prvi, po pravilu, ne πtede dlanove, a drugi ne πkrtare s bezrezervnim pohvalama. Mezzo-soprano Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ, the prima donna of the Zagreb Opera, continues to give dazzling performances on operatic and concert stages in her home country of Croatia, while at the same time building an enviable artistic career on a renowned international stage (Vienna, Graz, Prague, Bratislava, Amsterdam, St. Gallen, Trier, Saarbrücken, Bonn…). Her striking singing and acting abilities mesmerize audiences and critics alike, which is why the former do not hold back their applause, and why the latter lavish her with abundant praise. 8

sobitu pozornost publike hrvatska mezzosopranistica Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ zaokupljala je Ëak i onda kad je nastupala uz svjetske pjevaËke velikane kao πto su Paata Burchuladze, José Cura, Jonas Kaufmann… UmjetniËin moÊan, voluminozan, ali podatan mezzosopran s lakoÊom svladava odreda vrlo zahtjevne i Ëesto posvema opreËne operne uloge, kako u æeljeznome njemaËkom repertoaru, tako i na podruËju talijanskog belkanta i verizma. Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ podjednako je na sceni uvjerljiva kao smjerna Adalgisa i demonska Kundry, potresna Santuzza i fatalna Carmen… Izvanredni scenski i koncertni dosezi repertoarno vrlo svestrane umjetnice dodatno su, dakako, potkrijepljeni nizom uglednih hrvatskih nagrada i priznanja. UnatoË svemu, Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ zazire od titule primadone i ispraznoga medijskoga glamura, te za sebe uvijek naglaπava kako je samo ozbiljna umjetnica posve predana svom odgovornom poslanju. Njezina velika radiπnost i ljudska skromnost uvelike su posljedica popriliËno neuobiËajena æivotnog puta, jer od raspjevanog djetinjstva u rodnome Dubrovniku pa do reﬂektora uglednih opernih pozornica Dubravka je − godinama svjesno potiskujuÊi ljubav prema glazbi − uistinu proπla samo svoj mukotrpan put preko trnja do zvijezda. Naime, poπtujuÊi æelje svojih briænih ali i strogih roditelja, najprije je zavrπila matematiËku gimnaziju i zatim diplomirala studij arhitekture, a tek nakon toga odvaæila se upisati na MuziËku akademiju u Zagrebu i posve posvetiti pjevanju. Tako je ono πto joj je od djetinjstva uvijek bilo na prvome mjestu na red doπlo posljednje… ■ U poËetku ovoga naπeg susreta radosno ste mi rekli kako sutra poËinje vaπ godiπnji odmor koji Êete s obitelji provesti na vlastitom brodu. Kakav je Vaπ tipiËan mornarski dan na hrvatskom Jadranu? − VeÊina ljudi ima sasvim pogreπnu predodæbu kako je æivot na brodu uglavnom idiliËna dokolica, no stvarnost je posve drugaËija. Od ranoga jutra sve do odlaska na poËinak na brodu uvijek imate svakojakog posla, a Ëak i kad se odmarate, pogled vam je neprestano uprt u nebo, jer pokuπavate dokuËiti kakvo vas vrijeme na puËini u sljedeÊim satima oËekuje. »udesnu ljepotu hrvatske obale i otoka najpotpunije i najizravnije moæete doæivjeti jedino ako imate brod, no ono πto je meni u svemu tome zaista najvrjednije svakako je sljedeÊe: kad naπa ËetveroËlana obitelj danima æivi na malom prostoru, dogaa nam se sasvim osobita bliskost i zajedniπtvo, πto u tom stupnju nije moguÊe ostvariti u naπoj svakodnevici na kopnu, jer svatko je tada okupiran ponajveÊma

svojim obavezama. Kad ne bi bilo iznenadnih nevera i opasnih valova, onda bi, po meni, brod bio idealno mjesto za obiteljski æivot! Dakako, na naπim ljetnim plovidbama neizostavna su sidrenja u Dubrovniku gdje æive moji roditelji, gdje odmah oæive uspomene na djetinjstvo i mladost, tako da za tih boravaka u rodnom gradu Ëak i nesvjesno poËinjem rekapitulirati æivotni put koji je odavna prijeen. U mome sluËaju pjevaËica se tijekom ljetnih mjeseci posve distancira od profesionalne scene te jednostavno postaje majka, supruga, kÊi, prijateljica i brodska kuÊanica, koja mora vladati i ponekim pomorskim vjeπtinama. Zbog tako mi dragocjenoga obiteljskog zajedniπtva, po pravilu, odbijam ljetne angaæmane, a i preko godine, kad sam Ëesto na turnejama, iznebuha znam smisliti kojekakve kombinacije zrakoplovnih linija ne bi li se barem nekoliko sati ranije vratila svom suprugu i dvojici naπih sinova u Zagreb. Ponajviπe stoga zrakoplov doæivljavam kao istinsku blagodat. Æivot glazbenog umjetnika, pogotovu ako je traæen, sastoji se od stalnih putovanja koja su koliko naporna, toliko i zanimljiva, no u toj neprestanoj skitnji svijetom vrlo lako moæete izgubiti samog sebe, osim ako ne posjedujete Ëvrst, vrlo stabilan obiteljski nukleus. Ali i u tome smislu − ja sam vrlo sretna i ispunjena osoba. ■ U privatnom æivotu sve slobodno vrijeme posveÊujete odgoju sinova, no i kao umjetnica Ëesto spominjete mlade ljude koji najËeπÊe ostaju prikraÊeni za formativno vaæne æivotne spoznaje, πto se mogu upiti iz knjiga, iz dramskih ali i opernih predstava. − Tako je! Æeljela bih da πto viπe mladih ljudi otkrije ljepotu i vrijednost pravoga glazbenoga i dramskog teatra, jer Ëak nam i opera moæe ponuditi vrlo mudre odgovore na mnoge æivotne dvojbe koje nas i te kako muËe u naπoj svakodnevici. Naime, u opernim i dramskim siæeima uvijek su posrijedi raznorazna proturjeËja izmeu pojedinaca ili unutar neke zajednice, sa svim njihovim usponima i padovima, hrabroπÊu i kukaviËlukom, uzviπenoπÊu i niskoπÊu, prostoduπnoπÊu i perﬁdnoπÊu… Primjera je bezbroj: od Hamleta Êete tako nauËiti πto jedna manipulativna majka moæe napraviti od svoga sina i kako Êe to zavrπiti; Carmen je pak prelijepa ali i duboko nesretna æena koja, mijenjajuÊi i unesreÊujuÊi muπkarce, ujedno srlja u vlastitu propast; moÊna i posesivna egipatska princeza Amneris u smrt Êe odvesti dvoje mladih ljudi jer nije shvatila da se ni s kojim bogatstvom ljubav ne moæe kupiti; Parsifal i Kundry pomaæu nam da shvatimo kako duhovno i svjetovno moraju biti u savrπenoj ravnoteæi da bismo mogli funkcionirati kao potpuni ljudi…U tome nepresuπnom vrelu mudrih savjeta koje nam s kazaliπne scene prosljeuje uglazbljena rijeË, na prvo bih mjesto

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s uvjerenjem stavila Mozartovu nevjerojatno viπeslojnu »arobnu frulu. »udesna je to opera koja dotiËe sve razine ljudske egzistencije, a u zaËudno æivotnoj Bergmanovoj ekranizaciji osnaæila je i ohrabrila mnoge tankoÊutne ljude na ovome prelijepome ali i nesretnome, beznadno razjedinjenom planetu. Prava opera nikad nije samo glazba i pjevanje; zato se ja ne osjeÊam kao raspjevana, samozadovoljna primadona, nego jedino − kao umjetnica, glazbena umjetnica koja svojim pjevanjem i glumom zapravo prenosi neku duboku poruku koju je i te kako vrijedno pojmiti… ■ Kako je Vama mnogo draæe govoriti o pravoj svrsi glazbene i svekolike umjetnosti nego o vlastitim profesionalnim uspjesima, to Êu i ja nastaviti u tome smjeru: postoji li neka osobito Vam draga knjiga koja je uvijek bila nadomak ruke, knjiga od koje se niste tako lako odvajali? - Od mnogih, ovdje Êu navesti samo jednog autora i jedan naslov − Paolo Coelho AlkemiËar. Nevjerojatno je to kako Ëovjek mora proÊi kroz niz æivotnih iskuπenja da bi, nakon svega proæivljenoga (ali i sa samim sobom vrlo temeljito proraenoga), napokon doista progledao i spoznao kako mu se sve ono πto je lijepo i vrijedno zapravo nalazi nadomak, tako reÊi − na vlastitome dlanu. No da bi se preko svih tih iskuπenja dospjelo do svojevrsnog otkupljenja, taj mukotrpni put osobnog proËiπÊenja mora se proÊi u cijelosti, a to je zacijelo najteæi æivotni dijalog jer svatko ga od nas mora ustrajno voditi − ponajprije sâm sa sobom. Kako bih doista spoznala tko sam, meni je, primjerice, trebalo da se iskuπam u matematici, arhitekturi i glazbi, da na opernoj sceni ostvarim popriliËno uloga, te da napokon postanem i majka dvojice divnih djeËaka. U tome æivotnom traganju za samom sobom glazba i knjige bile su mi dodatno i vrlo precizno zrcalo u kojemu sam postupno sve jasnije i jasnije razaznavala svoj pravi ljudski lik. ■RazmiπljajuÊi o Vaπemu æivotnom putu, o Vaπoj nevjerojatnoj temeljitosti i isto takvoj ustrajnosti, nameÊe mi se pomisao da toliku snagu i dosljednost najvjerojatnije crpite i iz vjere? − Vjera u Boga i vjera u Ëudesnu moÊ glazbe prate me od ranog djetinjstva; kao djevojËica pjevala sam u crkvi i svirala u kvartetu violonËela; veÊ sam tada maglovito naslutila kako je svaki istinski umjetnik samo jedan duhovni kanal kroz kojega se Boæja rijeË slijeva na zemlju, meu ljude. I zato mislim da svaki umjetnik, ako je pravi, umjetnosti mora i jedino moæe sluæiti samo na taj naËin. Veoma sam nesretna kad vidim kako se mnogi kolege umjetnoπÊu koriste kako bi prezentirali sami sebe; takav oblik negativnog ega uistinu je poguban. Bogomdani umjetnici imaju misiju i oni doista moraju neπto predati drugima,

no mnogo je, na æalost, i onih koji su duhovno kastrirani narcistiËkom samodostatnoπÊu. No svatko Êe od nas napokon dospjeti toËno tamo gdje mu je zapravo i mjesto, pa Êe jedni u æutom tisku govoriti o svojim cipelama, parfemima i ljubavnim partnerima, a drugi u nekome ozbiljnom Ëasopisu pokuπati Ëitateljima predoËiti svoj naËin traganja za istinskim vrijednostima kako na duhovnome planu, tako i u realitetu svakidaπnjice. No, molim Vas, nemojte sad pomisliti kako samu sebe smatram endemskim raritetom, jer postoji mnogo od Boga predodreenih, vrlo odgovornih umjetnika koji mi daju snagu i koji me nadahnjuju, poput, recimo − svjetski glasovitih hrvatskih mezzosopranistica Ruæe Pospiπ Baldani i Dunje VejzoviÊ. Nakon silaska s operne scene njih su dvije i dandanas svojevrsni svjetionici koji nemalome broju sadaπnjih izvrsnih hrvatskih opernih pjevaËa i te kako pomaæu u njihovoj umjetniËkoj plovidbi punoj raznoraznih neizvjesnosti, jer tako se lako nasukati na hrid samoljublja i uËas potonuti u bezdan koji Êe vas zauvijek progutati… A da vam se neπto takvo jednoga dana ipak ne bi dogodilo, morate imati i te tako pouzdane svjetionike, ali i od Boga dani − vlastiti æivotni kompas. Sve ostalo ovisi o zdravlju i upornome radu na sebi, radu koji najradije nazivam − sluæenje umjetnosti. ■

izloæila cijeli svoj zadivljujuÊi arsenal dobro proraËunatih efekata − od priguπena, duboka glasa u kojemu tinja strast, do uæarenih, vjeπto istkanih visokih registara, njeæno obgrljenih fraza i majstorska upravljanja dinamikom od prvoga do posljednjeg takta. Nije bilo ni jednoga trenutka u kojemu nije osjeÊala Ëuvstvenu istinu Kundryne dionice, potpuno uronjena u vrlo osobni doæivljaj jednoga od najkompleksnijih likova operne literature. Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ nastupit Êe u Hrvatskome glazbenom zavodu meu najsjajnijim hrvatskim opernim zvijezdama u jedinstvenome koncertnom ciklusu Molto cantabile ZagrebaËka publika imat Êe priliku uæivati u nastupu Dubravke ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ na jednome od pet koncertata jedinstvenoga koncertnog ciklusa u koncertnoj sezoni 2012./13. u zagrebaËkome Hrvatskom glazbenom zavodu. Osim u jedinstvenim interpretacijama te naπe proslavljene mezzosopranistice, publika Êe moÊi uæivati i u vrhunskim interpretacijama sopranistice Martine Zadro i Evelin Novak, tenora Tomislava Muæeka, bas-baritona Kreπimira Straæanca i basa Luciana BatiniÊa, uz pratnju jednako tako osobitih pijanista. Doæivljaj Êe tih koncertnih veËeri biti joπ snaæniji zbog umjetniËkih doprinosa pijanista, a to su: Martina Filjak, –ore Stanetti, Cornelis Witthoeft, Julija Palmova te Irina MilivojeviÊ. Ciklus Êe u listopadu otvoriti koncert naπega sjajnog

Umjetnica velike maπte i beskonaËne

tenora Tomislava Muæeka, posveÊen njemaËkom

raznolikosti

Liedu i hrvatskoj popijevci, uz izvedbe pjesama J.

Nakon sjajnog niza zahtjevnih mezzosopranskih uloga

Brahmsa, R. Straussa i V. Ruædjaka, a Muæeka Êe

apsolviranih u operama talijanskoga, francuskoga i

pratiti pijanistica Irina MilivojeviÊ. Luciano BatiniÊ svoju

slavenskog repertoara, Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ

Êe koncertnu veËer u prosincu pak posvetiti ruskom

lani se prvi put javnosti predstavila kao opËinjavajuÊa

vokalnom stvaralaπtvu, djelima A. Borodina, M. Glinke,

Kundry u Wagnerovoj glazbenoj drami Parsifal. U

M. P. Musorgskog, P. I. »ajkovskog i S. Rahmanjinova,

iduÊim pak sezonama umjetnica Êe scenski i koncer-

πto Êe ih izvesti s pijanisticom Julijom Palmovom,

tno tumaËiti joπ dvije velike Wagnerove uloge: Ortrud

a njihov Êe recital proteÊi u ozraËju 95. roendana

u Lohengrinu i Fricku u Prstenu Niebelunga.

kammersängera Tomislava NeraliÊa. Koncert Marti-

SljedeÊi bezrezervni hvalospjev iz pera glazbenog

ne Zadro, na rasporedu u sijeËnju, zamiπljen je kao

kritiËara Jamesa Sohrea (Opera Today, travanj 2012.)

hommage kammersängerin Seni Jurinac, a uz pratnju

nedvosmisleno govori kako ubuduÊe i u wagnerijan-

Martine Filjak izvest Êe pjesme R. Schumanna te arije

skome repertoaru od Dubravke ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ

iz opera W. A. Mozarta, G. Puccinija i R. Straussa. U

moæemo oËekivati izrijekom najviπe umjetniËke

susret sedamdesetom roendanu svjetski glasovite

dosege:

hrvatske primadone i pedagoginje Dunje VejzoviÊ u

ZagrebaËka opera okupila je u produkciji Wagnerova

veljaËi Êe Evelin Novak i Kreπimir Straæanac izvoditi

Parsifala vrhunske pjevaËe, meu kojima poËasno

stare talijanske majstore, njemaËki Lied, te operne

prvo mjesto pripada intrigantnoj Kundry u tumaËenju

arije i duete, a pijanistiËku podrπku tim Êe mladim, a

Dubravke ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ, umjetnice velike maπte i

veÊ proslavljenim umjetnicima pruæiti ugledni njemaËki

beskonaËne raznolikosti. U prvom Ëinu ona je progna-

pijanist Cornelis Witthoeft. Posljednji koncert ciklusa

nica s ceste, a u drugome − glamurozna zavodnica

Molto cantabile, na rasporedu u svibnju, posveÊen je

koja se, na rubu æivËanoga sloma, koleba izmeu toga

sjeÊanju na legendarnu sopranisticu Milku Trninu, a

da bude Klingsorova dragovoljna saveznica ili pak

tom Êe prilikom Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ i –ore

pokajnica u potrazi za iskupljenjem. Nesputani trenuci

Stanetti ponuditi zajedniËke interpretacije glazbe R.

nekontrolirane poæude smjenjuju se s nervoznim grËe-

Wagnera − pjesama na stihove M. Wesendonck te

vima krivnje i gaenjem od kojega se okreÊe æeludac

odabranih prizora iz njegovih glazbenih drama, u

(njezinu scenskom liku, ne nama). Bio je to uvjerljiv, do

povodu 200. obljetnice roenja toga skladatelja, πto

kraja angaæiran, nedvojbeno shizofreni pristup liku, ko-

je slavimo u 2013. godini.

jim je gospoa ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ potpuno ovladala.

Zanimljivost je ovoga osebujno koncipiranog pje-

Nije se πtedjela ni na glasovnom planu: smiono je

vaËkog ciklusa i natjecanje koje Êe se odræati − svaki CROATIA AIRLINES

6 Intervju.indd 9

9/12/12 5:22 PM

od uglednih vokalnih umjetnika predloæit Êe jednog studenta ili studenticu pjevanja, koji Êe se na poËetku njihova koncerta predstaviti petnaestominutnim nastupom. Prosudbena komisija u sastavu: Dunja VejzoviÊ, Maria Barbieri, Ivana Kocelj, Mirjana Bohanec VidoviÊ te Josip Nalis na kraju ciklusa odabrat Êe pobjednika, kojega Êe Koncertna direkcija Zagreb nagraditi koncertom u sljedeÊoj sezoni, a Lions Club GriË jednogodiπnjom stipendijom. Kako izvrsnost hrvatskih opernih umjetnika ne staje samo na tih pet iznimnih umjetnika, ciklus Molto cantabile nastavit Êe se i u sezoni 2013./2014., u kojoj se oËekuju nastupi mezzosopranistice Renate PokupiÊ, sopranistice Ivane Lazar i Valentine FijaËko, te basova Gorana JuriÊa i Marka Mimice.

Marija Saraga

he Croatian mezzo-soprano, Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ, has stolen her share of the spotlight in performances alongside some of the opera world’s greats: Paata Burchuladze, José Cura, and Jonas Kaufmann… This powerful, voluminous, yet versatile mezzo-soprano has masterful command of very demanding and often contrasting operatic roles, like that of the iron-strong German repertoire, as well as that of the Italian bel canto and verismo. Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ is equally convincing on stage as the meek Adalgisa, demonic Kundry, poignant Santuzza and femme fatale Carmen… The extraordinary stage and concert hall accomplishments of this multi-faceted artist are, of course, additionally backed up by a number of renowned Croatian honours and awards. Despite everything, Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ shies away from the title of prima donna and the emptiness of media glamour, always emphasizing that she is but a serious artist, fully dedicated to her responsible mission! Her great diligence and modesty as a human being are largely the result of an unusual life path. From a childhood filled with singing in her native Dubrovnik, to the limelight of eminent operatic stages, consciously suppressing her love of music, her path to stardom was indeed rough. Respecting the wishes of her caring, but strict parents, she first graduated from a high school orientated towards mathematics, then went on to graduate with a degree in architecture and only after which she dared apply to the Academy of Music in Zagreb, fully dedicating herself to singing. Thus, her first interest in childhood turned out to come last in line … ■ At the beginning of our meeting, you were exhilarated to tell me that your vacation started tomorrow, which you’ll be spending with your family aboard your own boat. What is a typical day in the life of a sailor for you on the Croatian Adriatic?

− Most people have a very erroneous idea of what life is like on a ship; they see it as an idyllic time of leisure, but the reality is completely different! From early morning until you go to bed at night, you have all kinds of work to do, and even when you rest, you are constantly watching the sky, trying to anticipate the weather ahead of you in the open sea in the coming hours. You can get the fullest and the most direct experience of the amazing Croatian coastline and its islands only if you own a boat, but what I find the most valuable in all this is certainly the following: when our family of four spends time in a restricted space, we experience a special closeness and unity, which is not achievable to such a degree in our daily life back on land, because everyone is then mostly absorbed in doing his or her own thing.. Barring storms and dangerous waves, a boat would be an ideal place for family life, in my opinion! Of course, when we sail in the summer, we always anchor in Dubrovnik where my parents live, and where my memories of childhood and youth immediately come to life, and during which I automatically begin to take stock of my life and the journey taken so far. For me, the singer is then fully-distanced from her professional life during these summer months, becoming simply a mother, wife, daughter, friend and ship homemaker, who must also have a command of sailing. Generally, I decline summer engagements, as they would interfere with the family unity I find so precious; even throughout the year, when I’m often on tour, I suddenly find myself imagining different connecting flights just to get me home to my husband and two sons in Zagreb a few hours earlier. This is the principal reason why I think of planes as a true blessing. The life of a musician, especially if sought after, consists of constant travel which is as exhausting as it is interesting, but you can also lose your sense of self, roaming the world, unless you have a strong and very stable family nucleus. But, in this sense − I’m a very happy and fulfilled person. ■ In your personal life, you dedicate all of your free time to raising your sons, but also as an artist, you frequently mention young people who are often deprived of life lessons important to their development, which can be absorbed not only from books, but also from dramatic and operatic performances? − That’s right! I wish that more and more young people would discover the beauty and value of true musical theatre, because even opera can offer us wise answers to many of the dilemmas that haunt us in our daily lives. Operatic and dramatic narratives always contain a variety of conflicts between individuals or within the

community as a whole, with all their rises and falls, courage and cowardice, sublimeness and baseness, kindheartedness and treachery… The examples are infinite: from Hamlet you’ll learn what a manipulative mother can turn her son into and how this will end; Carmen is a beautiful, yet profoundly unhappy woman who, going from one man to another, makes them all miserable, and who, at the same time, is headed for destruction herself; the powerful and possessive Egyptian princess Amneris causes the death of two young people, because she fails to realize that no amount of wealth will buy her love; Parsifal and Kundry help us understand that the spiritual and the secular must be in perfect balance to allow us to be complete beings…In this endless resource of wise advice communicated to us from the theatrical stage by words set to music, I would with certainty give priority to Mozart’s incredibly complex The Magic Flute. This is a marvelous opera which touches upon human existence at every level, and in Bergman’s surprisingly lifelike film version, it empowers and encourages many sensitive people on this beautiful, but also wretched, and hopelessly disunited planet. True opera is never just music and singing; that’s why I don’t feel like a sing-your-heart-out, smug prima donna, but only an artist, a musical artist, who sings to convey a profound message worthy of being taken in… ■ Since you prefer to speak of the true purpose of music and art in general rather than your own professional achievements, I will continue in that direction; is there a book that you particularly like, which you always kept near, a book you cannot seem to tear yourself away from? − Out of many, I’ll name just one author and just one title − Paolo Coelho’s The Alchemist. It is incredible that a man must go through many trials and tribulations in order to, after all which he has experienced (but also thoroughly reflected upon), finally see the light and realize that everything that is beautiful and valuable is within reach, virtually in his own two hands. However, in order to obtain redemption through these tribulations, one must walk the hard road of personal purification in its entirety, and there is definitely a difficult dialogue that needs to be had by each and every one of us on a regular basis − primarily with ourselves. In order to truly understand who I was, I had to, for example, try my hand at math, architecture and music; I had to play a number of roles on stage in order to finally become the mother of two amazing boys. In this lifelong search for myself, music and books have both been a very accurate mirror, in which I’ve been able to get a clearer image of myself as a human being.

CROATIA AIRLINES

6 Intervju.indd 10

9/12/12 5:22 PM

■ Reflecting on your life, on your incredible thoroughness and persistence, I can’t help thinking that your strength and consistency is likely to come from faith as well?... − Faith in God and faith in music’s magical power have been with me since early childhood; as a little girl, I sang in a church and played cello in a quartet; back then, I had a vague notion that every true artist was merely a spiritual channel through which the word of God pours down onto the earth, to all people. And this is why I believe that any artist, if genuine, must serve and can serve only in this way. It saddens me deeply to see my fellow colleagues exploit art for the purposes of self-promotion; this form of negative ego is truly disastrous. God-given artists have a mission and they really need to give something of themselves to others, but sadly, there are many who seem to be spiritually-castrated by a narcissistic sense of self-sufficiency. But every one of us will ultimately get to where we’re supposed to be in the end; some will speak to the tabloids about their shoes, perfume and lovers, while others will appear in serious magazines, trying to portray, to the readership, a sense of their own personal quest for true values, both in the spiritual realm and in everyday reality. But, please don’t think that I see myself as an endemic rarity because there are many responsible artists, touched by God, who give me strength and inspire me, like the world-famous Croatian mezzo-sopranos Ruæa Pospiπ Baldani and Dunja VejzoviÊ. After leaving the opera stage, they remain as sort of beacons, helping a significant number of current Croatian opera singers in their artistic navigation, excellent singers who are filled with uncertainty; this is because it’s so easy to become stranded on a cliff of complacency and quickly sink into an abyss that can devour you forever… In order to prevent this from happening, you must have reliable beacons, but also your own life compass, given by God. Everything else depends on how persistently you work yourself, work that I like ■ to call − serving art.

can expect the greatest artistic accomplishment in

lav NeraliÊ. Martina Zadro’s concert, scheduled for

the Wagnerian repertoire from Dubravka ©eparoviÊ

January, pays homage to kammersängerin Sena

MuπoviÊ.

Jurinac. Accompanied by Martina Filjak, Zadro will

The Zagreb Opera has assembled a cast of ﬁrst-rate

sing R. Schumann’s songs and opera arias by W.

singers in the production of Wagner’s Parsifal, with

A. Mozart, G. Puccini and R. Strauss. As the 70th

honorary ﬁrst place going to the intriguing Kundry as

birthday of the world famous Croatian prima donna

interpreted by Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ. She is

and pedagogue Dunja VejzoviÊ approaches in Febru-

an artist of great imagination and inﬁnite versatility.

ary, Evelin Novak and Kreπimir Straæanac will perform

In Act One, she is a displaced street person; in Act

the German Lied, and opera arias and duets by old,

Two, a glamorous seductress who seems to be on

Italian masters. These young and yet famous artists

the verge of a nervous breakdown as she vacillates

will be accompanied by the reputable German pianist

between being Klingsor’s willing accomplice and a

Cornelis Witthoeft. The last performance in the Molto

penitent in search of redemption. Free-wheeling

cantabile concert cycle is scheduled for May and is

moments of unbridled lust give way to nervous,

dedicated to the memory of the legendary soprano

guilty tics and stomach-churning disgust (for the

Milka Ternina. On this occasion, Dubravka ©eparoviÊ

character, not us). This was a valid, fully engaged,

MuπoviÊ and –ore Stanetti will be performing R.

undeniably schizophrenic take on the character and

Wagner’s Wesendonck Lieder and selected scenes

Ms. ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ wholly owned it.

from his music dramas together. The concert is

Nor did she stink in the vocal arena as she let loose

dedicated to the 200th anniversary of his birth, which

with an awesome arsenal of well-calculated effects

is to be celebrated in 2013.

including a smouldering low voice, searing top,

A special feature of this concert cycle is a competition

well knit registers, tenderly caressed phrasings,

that will be held as part of it. Each of the ﬁve reputable

and superbly controlled dynamics, remarkably all

singers will put forward the name of one student

in one piece. There was not a moment that she

singer who will give a 15-minute performance at the

was not invested in the emotional truth of Kundry’s

beginning of their concerts. At the end of the cycle,

musical lines as she fully immersed herself in a

the jury comprising Dunja VejzoviÊ, Maria Barbieri,

highly personal traversal of one of opera’s most

Ivana Kocelj, Mirjana Bohanec VidoviÊ and Josip

complex characters.

Nalis will select the winner who will be awarded with a concert of his or her own the following season by

Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ to perform at

the Koncertna Direkcija Zagreb (Concert Direction

the Hrvatski Glazbeni Zavod (Croatian Music

Zagreb). Also, the Lions Club GriË will award the

Institute) among some of the most brilliant

winner with a one-year scholarship.

Croatian opera stars in a unique concert cycle

So as not to rely solely on these ﬁ ve opera greats

Molto cantabile

to keep the excellence in Croatian artistry go-

A Zagreb audience will have the opportunity to enjoy

ing, the Molto cantabile cycle will continue in

the performance of Dubravka ©eparoviÊ MuπoviÊ at

the 2013/2014 season, when it will host mezzo

one of ﬁve concerts in a unique concert cycle in the

soprano Renata PokupiÊ, sopranos Ivana Lazar

2012/2013 season at the Hrvatski Glazbeni Zavod

and Valentina FijaËko, and basses Goran JuriÊ

(Croatian Music Institute) in Zagreb. In addition to

and Marko Mimica.

Marija Saraga

a unique interpretation by the reputable Croatian mezzo soprano, the audience will also be able to enjoy top performances by sopranos Martina Zadro and Evelin Novak, tenor Tomislav Muæek, bassbaritone Kreπimir Straæanec, bass Luciano BatiniÊ, as well as performances by equally exceptional pianists, such as Martina Filjak, –ore Stanetti, Cornelis Witthoeft, Julija Palmova, and Irina MilivojeviÊ, whose

An Artist with Great Imagination and Endless

accompaniment will contribute signiﬁcantly to the

Diversity

artistic experience of the evening. The cycle opens in

After a glorious series of demanding mezzo-

October with a concert by the brilliant Croatian tenor

soprano roles, performed in operas of an Italian,

Tomislav Muæek, who has dedicated his performance

French and Slavic repertoire, Dubravka ©eparoviÊ

to the German Lied and Croatian music. Accompa-

MuπoviÊ has presented herself to the public for the

nied by pianist Irina MilivojeviÊ, Muæek’s performance

ﬁrst time as mesmerizing Kundry in Wagner’s musi-

includes songs by J. Brahms, R. Strauss and V.

cal drama Parsifal. In the following season, the artist

Ruædjak. Luciano BatiniÊ, accompanied by pianist

will interpret another two great Wagnerian roles on

Julija Palmova, will dedicate his concert evening in

the stage and in concert: Ortrud in Lohengrin and

December to Russian vocal creations, such as the

Fricka in The Ring of the Nibelung. The enthusiastic

works of A. Borodin, M. Glinka, M. P. Mussorgsky,

praise written by music critic James Sohre (Opera

P. I. Tchaikovsky and S. Rachmaninoff. Their recital

Today, April 2012) conﬁrms undoubtedly that we

will mark the 95th birthday of kammersänger TomisCROATIA AIRLINES

6 Intervju.indd 11

9/12/12 5:22 PM

Republika

HRVATSKA To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËne obale Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2001. godine, 4,437.460 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima.

Republic of

CROATIA

National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contribu-

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Izravne domaÊe linije Direct domestic routes Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines’ destinations stalne / regular sezonske ljetne / seasonal in summer

............................................ Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik je hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica - kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (779.145 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. prosinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine.

This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. By the 2001 census, Croatia’s population is 4,437,460. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The ofﬁcial language is Croatian, and the ofﬁcial script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (779,145 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova. 12

ted to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima iz svih razdoblja, zbog burnih povijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja razliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karakteriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakralna baπtina te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeuropskoga kulturnog kruga i istiËe se mnogim prapovijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka i kulturnim spomenicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine.

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A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of inﬂuences of different cultures. Its coast is characterized by the inﬂuences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monuments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous

prehistoric ﬁndings of world signiﬁcance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental complexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik. The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina - ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari - najveÊe turistiËko iznenaenje te hit-odrediπte na Sredozemlju. Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, priobalje te kontinentalni dio zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u 2011. godini u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima zabilježili su 11,455.677 turista, od kojih je 87% stranih (9,926.674).

Turisti su ostvarili u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima oko 60,000.000 noÊenja (60,138. 241 noÊenje), a od toga 91% noÊenja ostvarili su strani turisti (57, 343.178). Tradicionalno su najbrojniji gosti Nijemci (22,8%), a njih slijede gosti iz Slovenije (11,7%), Italije (9,1%), Austrije (8,8%), »eπke (8,0%), Poljske (5,7%), SlovaËke (4,2%), Nizozemske (4,1%), Rusije (2,7%), Ujedinjenog Kraljevstva (2,3%), πto je ukupno 79,4%. Turisti iz ostalih zemalja ostvarili su 20,6%. Hoteli, turistiËka naselja i apartmani, hosteli, kampovi, sobe i apartmani u kuÊanstvima te ostale vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim standardima. Bogata je kulturna ponuda, kongresna i wellnes ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, charter ponuda (iznajmljivanje plovila za razonodu i sport), kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih i biciklistiËkih staza, vinske ceste, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti…

Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja, nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluautocesta Hrvatska je bliæa nego ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajek tom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe - i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji - kraÊe od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od svakodnevice miljama i miljama daleko...

Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has been a hit destination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international experts in tourism. According to data from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, the Croatian tourist destinations located on the islands, along the coast and in the continental part of the country, including the capital city of Zagreb, recorded roughly 11.5 million tourists (11,455,677 tourists) in commercial accommodation facilities in 2011, of whom 87% were foreign tourists (9,926,674 foreign tourists). Tourists realized about 60 million overnight stays (60,138,241 overnights) in commercial accommodation facilities, of which 91% of the overnights were realized by foreign tourists (57,343,178 foreign tourist overnights). Traditionally, the largest number of foreign guests came from Germany (22.8%), and they were followed by guests from Slovenia (11.7%), Italy (9.1%), Austria (8.8%), the Czech Republic

(8.0%), Poland (5.7%), Slovakia (4.2%), the Netherlands (4.1%), Russia (2.7%), and the United Kingdom (2.3%), which comes to a total of 79.4%. Tourists from other countries accounted for 20.6% of the overnights. Hotels, tourist villages and apartments, hostels, camps, rooms and apartments in private homes and other forms of accommodation, such as modern nautical centres, are equipped in line with international standards. There is a rich cultural offer, together with the congress and wellness offer, sport-recreation and entertainment contents, the charter offer (renting sailing vessels for leisure and sport), many kilometres of well-groomed walking and cycling paths, wine roads, sightseeing excursions that include natural and cultural treasures... Novac i naËin plaÊanja Ku na je na ziv novËa ne je di ni ce Re pu bli ke Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp). NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima - 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac - 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim karticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima. Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Kuna (kn). In circulation are banknotes in Kuna and coins in Kuna and Lipa (lp) ∑ one hundredth of a Kuna. The banknotes are issued in the following denominations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Kuna, while the denomination structure of the coins is 1, 2 and 5 Kuna and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Lipa (100 Lipa = 1 Kuna). Payments can be made by credit card (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard and Mastercard), as well as euro-checks. Cash can be withdrawn from ATMs.

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■ NOVA USLUGA A NEW SERVICE

Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

Naπim projektom Okusi Hrvatske kroËimo dalje kroz hrvatske predjele i predstavljamo Hrvatsko zagorje, ukras sjeverozapada naπe domovine, odredište vrhunske eno i gastro ponude.

Our Flavours of Croatia project continues its journey through Croatian regions, and now we present to you Hrvatsko Zagorje, the area in the north-west part of Croatia, a premium oenology and gastronomic destination. 16

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Novu smo uslugu fokusirali na poslovni razred u kojemu putnicima, uz probrane obroke, nudimo vrhunsko bijelo i crno vino, karakteristiËno za podneblje. Our new service is focused on the business class where, in addition to carefully selected meals, passengers are offered premium white and red wines characteristic of this region.

hrabreni vaπom podrπkom, nastavljamo vam predstavljati raznolike hrvatske krajeve. Æelimo vam predstaviti Hrvatsku ne samo kao riznicu prirodnih ljepota i bogate kulturno-povijesne baπtine nego i kao odrediπte vrhunske eno i gastro ponude. Traæite li odrediπte doæivljaja i autentiËnosti, vjerujemo kako Êete ga u zelenom Zagorju i pronaÊi, a naπ je cilj upoznati vas s prednostima toga kraja. Zagorje vam predoËavamo od listopada do sredine prosinca - kad Êemo vam predstaviti hrvatski BoæiÊ i ponuditi tradicionalne blagdanske specijalitete na letu. Pri predstavljanju Zagorja i njegove gastronomske ponude suraivali smo s Tomislavom KoæiÊem, chefom restorana Academia u Bluesun hotelu Kaj u Mariji Bistrici. ©kolovao se u poznatoj kulinarskoj πkoli Ritz Escofﬁer Ecole u Parizu, a hranu priprema na drugaËiji, ali prepoznatljiv naËin, uz vjerovanje kako se ljubav stvara i ostaje na nepcu. U restoranu Academia nude kulinarske specijalitete temeljene na inovativnoj interpretaciji tradicionalne zagorske kuhinje, a nama su takoer predloæili izbor tradicionalnih zagorskih jela pripremljenih na suvremeniji naËin, πto vam ih nudimo na letu. Novu smo uslugu fokusirali na poslovni razred u kojemu putnicima, uz probrane obroke, ponovno nudimo vrhunsko bijelo i crno vino, karakteristiËno za podneblje. Na meunarodnim letovima, u ekonomskom razredu, takoer putnicima nudimo snack sa speciﬁËnim namirnicama iz odreenog kraja, kao i vina. Pri izboru vina opet smo konzultirali naπeg suradnika Saπu ©piranca, vrsnog poznavatelja vina, koji je za vas odabrao karakteristiËno bijelo i crno vino.

Zagorje Êe, takoer tijekom ukrcaja u zrakoplov, biti predstavljeno karakteristiËnom instrumentalnom glazbom skladatelja Alana Bjelinskog. I u ovome je putnom Ëasopisu Zagorje reprezentativno predstavljeno tekstom i izvrsnim fotograﬁjama, a u zrakoplovu moæete pogledati i ﬁlm o tome bajkovitom hrvatskom kraju. Nadamo se kako Êe ova naπa priËa o ljubavi prema hrani i vinu i vas odvesti u osebujne hrvatske krajeve, a vaπe putovanje naπim zrakoplovima biti joπ ugodnije. n

ncouraged by your support, we continue with the presentation of various Croatian regions. We want to present Croatia to you not only as a treasury of natural beauties and rich cultural and historical heritage but also as a premium oenological and gastronomic destination.

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If you are looking for a destination that will bring you an authentic experience, we believe you will ﬁnd it in the green area of Croatian Zagorje.

Our goal is to tell you about its advantages. Zagorje will be presented to you from October till mid December, when we will focus on presenting the Croatian Christmas tradition and offer our traditional season’s specialties on our flights. When preparing the presentation of Zagorje and its gastronomy, we collaborated with Tomislav KoæiÊ, chef of the restaurant Academia in Bluesun hotel Kaj in Marija Bistrica. He was schooled in the reputable Ritz Escoffier Ecole culinary school in Paris, and he prepares food in a different, distinguished way, with the belief that love is created and lives on one’s palate. The Academia restaurant offers culinary specialties based on an innovative interpretation of the traditional Zagorje cuisine. They proposed to us the selection of traditional dishes prepared in a modern way which we offer on our flights. Our new service is focused on the business class where, in addition to carefully selected meals, passengers are offered premium white and red wines characteristic of this region. On economy class international flights, passengers are offered light snacks characteristic of the region, as well as typical wines. When selecting the wines, again we consulted Saπa ©piranec, a reputable oenologist, who selected white and red wines characteristic of the region. Zagorje, the region that we are now focusing on, will be presented to you as you get on board through instrumental music characteristic of the region composed by Alan Bjelinski. Zagorje is also presented to you in the inflight magazine in front of you through a number of articles and excellent photographs, and during your flight you can watch a film about this fairytale-like Croatian region. We hope that this story about love of food and wine will raise your interest in quite specific Croatian regions and give you an even more pleasant journey. n

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bluesun hotel kaj, Marija Bistrica

restaurant academia

Hidden Oasis of Intimacy in the heart of romantic Zagorje

ZagrebaÄ?ka bb 49246 Marija Bistrica tel.+385 49 326 600 kaj@bluesunhotels.com www.hotelkaj.hr www.facebook.com/HotelKaj

Our cuisine abides by an honest, yet modern and recognizable presentation of traditional recipes. Each one of our ingredients is prepared with passion and tells a story from our garden and local farms.

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GASTRONOMIJA GASTRONOMY ■

AN IRRESISTEBLE GASTRONOMIC TALE OF ZAGORJE Piše/By Božica Brkan Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ, HTZ (D. FabijaniÊ) CROATIA AIRLINES

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Zagorski puran s mlincima i zagorski πtrukli… Kuhani suπeni buncek s krvavicama ili Ëeπnjovkama s kiselim zeljem… PRODUCT AND SERVICE PROMOTIONS Daily and evening promotions HoReCa evening party's MERCHANDISING, SHELF REFILLING SAMPLING Sampling, leaflet, printed paper distribution at point of sales, promotion and post boxes REPACKAGING AND LABELING OF PRODUCTS Foiling and packing of promo products, labeling, stickering

Sira, putra, vrhnja, mleka, jajca i krumpira... Svega toga ima u Hrvatskom zagorju, ali to je samo poËetak ukusne i neodoljive zagorske gastropriËe.

Zagorje-bred turkey with mlinci (ﬂatbread) and Zagorje πtrukli

ORGANIZATION OF PRIZE GAMES SMS and other winning games Organization, administration, registration, prize distribution

(cottage cheese-ﬁlled pastry)…

EVENT ORGANIZATION

sausages with sauerkraut…

MYSTERY SHOPPING

As the folk song goes: cheese,

DATA COLLECTION Pricing, inventory, promo activity, share of shelve

butter, sour cream, milk, eggs

LOGISTICS of POS MATERIALS Warehousing and distribution of PROMO materials and stands

Zagorje has all these, but this

SECONDARY PLACEMENT AND GONDOLA END ARRANGEMENTS

delicious and irresistible

INTERNET COMMUNITY MANAGEMENT Facebook, Twitter, web campaigns R

EGIONA OFFICE L S

ZAGRE SARAJE B V BEOGR O AD SKOPJE

We will boost up your sales! Promoplus marketing d.o.o., Avenija Dubrovnik 15, Zagreb, tel. +385 1 611 66 10, fax. +385 1 611 66 40 mail: promoplus@promoplus.hr 22 CROATIA web:AIRLINES www.promoplus.hr

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Cooked and cured pork shank with black pudding or garlic

and potatoes... the Croatian

is only the beginning of the

gastronomic tale of Zagorje.

ok je joπ Ërni ajzlinban romantiËno zahuktan milio izmeu zagorskih bregâ, v beli Zagreb grad, πto ritmiËki u pjesmi, a πto u koπarama, na plac s tamburicama vozio je sira, putra, vrhnja, mleka, jajca i krumpira... Otkako su se promijenila i vremena i prijevozna sredstva, hrvatska metropola hrli iza svoje ZagrebaËke gore, Medvednice, u gostoljubivo Hrvatsko zagorje, koje na svome stolu podastire sve svoje najbolje sirovine, ali i jela prireena nerijetko na metropolskoj razini. Odavno su, istina, toplice/terme, od StubiËkih, Tuheljskih, Krapinskih, do Varaædinskih, prestale biti glavnim turistiËkim odrediπtima, postajuÊi spa, a i kupaliπtima i ludovaliπtima za 21. stoljeÊe, a i sir z vrhnjem, pa i roπtilj u prirodi, prestali su biti dometom zagorske kuhinje. Nekad ruπevine, stari plemenitaπki dvorci zasjali su novim sjajem te su neki od njih postali i gastronomski zanimljivi ponudom suvremenih inaËica kuhinje minulih stoljeÊa. Podjednako su zanimljive i ona plemenitaπka i ona kmetska, tek u ovome stoljeÊu nerijetko πarmantno posluæene na istome stolu. Pa dok obilazite dojmljivi Muzej krapinskih neandertalaca, svetiπte Majke Boæje BistriËke ili beleËku Majku Boæju Snjeænu, dvorce Veliki Tabor ili TrakoπÊan, Muzej seljaËkih buna, kumroveËko Staro Selo ili rodnu kuÊu Josipa Broza Tita ili koju drugu od zanimljivih zagorskih πtacija, usput svim Ëulima moæete otkrivati i hranu i piÊe. Nekadaπnja glavna odlika Hrvatskoga zagorja veliko siromaπtvo, odnosno spoj malo zemlje i mnogo djece, u kuhinji se premetnula u izrazito maπtovito pripremanje jela, takoreÊi ni od Ëega. Osobito se to vidi na svakogodiπnjoj manifestaciji BabiËini kolaËi, na kojoj se pripremaju slastice iz davnina, od raskoπno nadjevena i nakiÊena svatovskoga kolaËa jutarnjice, bogato nadjevene orasima, makom i sirom, zatim zlijevke s braπnom od oklasaka, rucljeva ili patuËine, koja se pekla za najveÊe gladi, kad nije bilo dovoljno ni kukuruzna braπna za uobiËajenu zlijevku, do slavnih zagorskih πtrukla zapeËenih u vrhnju. Za mnoge od starih kolaËa i jela potiËe se i oæivljava ponovno i uzgoj nekih potisnutih poljoprivrednih kultura poput heljde, prosa, bijeloga kukuruza itd. Zagorski su πtrukli pak danas na popisu Unescove nematerijalne baπtine, a svijetom su ih proslavili kuhari zagrebaËkoga hotela Esplanade, ponajprije gratinirane, dakle zapeËene slane i slatke, ali i u juhi. Pruæi li vam se prilika, iskuπajte to na nekoj od ©truklijada ili u restoranima. Zasluga je ambicioznih kuhara iz proπloga stoljeÊa πto se iz zaborava u jedno od tradicionalnih hrvatskih nacionalnih specijaliteta otrgla i zagorska pisanica. Prema recepturi iz

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16. stoljeÊa taj je svinjski ﬁle punjen πljivama bistricama i opijen rakijom πljivovicom peËenom od njih. Ali nije to jedino plemiÊko zagorsko jelo. Joπ u proπlome stoljeÊu i na beËki, ali Ëak i na engleski dvor, odavde, vlakom, odlazili su zagorski purani. Danas je tim, izvorno divljim ameriËkim pticama, koje su se preko Italije prije petsto-πesto godina udomaÊile po zagorskim bregima, gdje se joπ uzgajaju na otvorenome, na prirodnoj paπi, zaπtiÊeno i zemljopisno podrijetlo. A kuhari se, baπ kao i u pripremi πtrukla, Ëesto natjeËu i tko Êe pripremiti najbolje jelo od mesa zagorskoga purana. I dalje je nedostiæna, nekad uglavnom samo blagdanska − purica z mlincima. Tek jedna od juha, poznata kao zagorska, gusta od slanine, komada suhoga mesa, krumpira, vrganja i drugih gljiva, okrijepit Êe vas da je neÊete zaboraviti. No, prepustite se da vas iznenade kuhari poput maestralnoga Tomislava KoæiÊa iz marijabistriËkog Bluesun hotela Kaj, koji je osvojio i titulu prvoga Zagorskoga chefa. Njegova je zagorska i uopÊe hrvatska kuhinja vrhunski internacionalni izriËaj − stil suvremeni globalni, a okus domaÊi. Uzmognete li, ne zaobiite ni Dvorac MihanoviÊ u Tuheljskim toplicama, Dvorac Beæanec

(ako je otvoren), Dvorac Gjalski u Gredicama ZaboËkim, zaboËki restoran Zaboky, Hotel Villa Magdalena u Krapinskim toplicama, izletiπte Stara πkola u Mirkovcu... Sve brojniji su i sve bolji i agroturistiËki objekti poput Vuglec brega u Lepajcima, Majsecov mlin u Donjoj Stubici, Kleti Kozjak u Svetome Kriæu ZaËretje ili Greπne gorice s pogledom na drevni dvorac nulte spomeniËke kategorije, iz kojega navodno i danas odjekuju vapaji lude Veronike DesiniËke. Zagorje ima i zanimljivih stolnih suvenira, primjerice licitare s proπtenja i sajmova te gvirc, kakav takoer od davnina pripremaju mediËari. Vrlo je zanimljivo i zemljano posue, medenice za peËenje a i duhovite i maπtovite varalice i bilikumi, Ëije se i ime oslanja na dobrodoπlicu, willkommen. Ne propustite kuπati ni, danas takoer zaπtiÊen, varaædinski klipiÊ, mirisno pecivo koje Êe vam toplinom i nezaboravom zauvijek dotaknuti duπu. n ack in the days when the romantic old-style train choo-chooed its way from the hills of Zagorje, to the White City of Zagreb, carrying delicacies both literally in baskets to the market, and metaphorically, as the song goes. Since time and means of transport have changed, the inhabitants of

the Croatian metropolis rush to the welcoming Croatian Zagorje, just north of Zagreb’s Medvednica Mountain, which offers its best products, including dishes often prepared according to metropolitan standards on its tables. It is true that Zagorje thermae like Varaædinske, Tuheljske, Krapinske, and StubiËke ceased to be main tourist attractions long ago. Now called by their English name, spa, they have become bath and wild entertainment resorts for the 21st century, while cottage cheese and cream, as well as barbecuing outdoors, are no longer the pinnacle of Zagorje cuisine. Once reduced to ruins, ancient aristocratic castles have gained a new splendour with many of them boasting an interesting gastronomic array of more modern versions of dishes invented centuries ago. Equally appealing are the cuisines of the aristocracy and of the serfs, which have never been served at the same table until the current century. Wherever you visit, be it the impressive Krapina Neanderthal Museum, the Shrine of Our Lady of Bistrica or Our Lady of the Snows in Belec, the castles of Veliki Tabor or TrakoπÊan, the Museum of Peasant Revolts, Kumrovec’s Old Village Museum, the house where Josip Broz Tito was born, or any other of Zagorje’s CROATIA AIRLINES

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fascinating sights, your palate will delight in the food and beverages on offer in the region. A characteristic of the Croatian Zagorje in the past has always been that of great poverty, namely the combination of having little land and many mouths to feed, which left its residents preparing a very imaginative cuisine out of virtually nothing. This is particularly evident in the annual festival BabiËini kolaËi (Grandma’s Cakes), where ancient desserts are prepared, including the luxuriously-ﬁlled and decorated wedding cake jutarnjica, richly-stuffed with walnuts, or with poppy seeds and cottage cheese; zlijevka made with corncob ﬂour; rucljev or patuËina, baked in the times of the region’s greatest famine, 28

where the corn flour for regular zlijevka was scarce, and finally the famous zagorski πtrukli, cottage cheese-filled pastry, baked in sour cream. For many of the traditional cakes and dishes, the cultivation of previously neglected cultivars, such as buckwheat, millet and white corn, is being revitalized and encouraged. Zagorje’s πtrukli are included in UNESCO’s list of intangible heritage. Made famous around the world by the chefs of the Esplanade Hotel in Zagreb, πtrukli is mostly prepared au gratin (covered in bread crumbs and browned), either sweet or savoury, but also in soups. If you get a chance, try it at one of the ©truklijada festivals or at a local restaurant.

Ambitious chefs of the last century deserve credit for making an almost forgotten dish one of the traditional Croatian national delicacies - that is the Zagorje pisanica, tenderloin filet. According to an 18th century recipe, this pork filet is filled with plums and soaked in plum brandy. This is not, however, the only aristocratic dish originating from Zagorje. A century ago, turkeys were sent by train from Zagorje to the Viennese court and even to the royal court of England. Today, the geographic origin of these once wild American birds, which arrived via Italy to find their home in the hills of Zagorje, where they roam free, is under protection. And just like with πtrukli, chefs compete in preparing the best dish made of Zagorje turkey meat. Turkey with mlinci (flatbread) ∑ which used to be a treat served only on holidays ∑ remains the ultimate cooking feat. Zagorska, a thick soup with bacon, chunks of cured meat, potatoes, cream and mushrooms will offer your taste buds an unforgettable treat. Allow such chefs, like the brilliant Tomislav KoæiÊ from Marija Bistrica’s Bluesun Hotel Kaj, who won the title of Zagorje’s Number One Chef, surprise you. His take on Zagorje and Croatian cuisine is first-rate with a style that is modern and global, and a taste that is local. If you get a chance, do not miss Castle MihanoviÊ in Tuheljske toplice, Castle Beæanec (if open), Castle Gjalski in Gredice ZaboËke, Zabok’s Zaboky restaurant, Hotel Villa Magdalena in Krapinske toplice, the Stara ©kola Hiking Resort in Mirkovac... The number and quality of agrotourist facilities are growing; those available include: Vuglec Breg in Lepajci, Majsecov Mlin in Donja Stubica, Klet Kozjak in Sveti Kriæ ZaËretje or Greπne Gorice with a view of the ancient castle, a zero-category monument, from which cries of the ill-fated, mentally deranged local beauty, Veronika DesiniÊka, according to legend, can be heard even today. Zagorje also boasts interesting souvenirs which can grace any table such as licitar ∑ decorated gingerbread bought at church festivals and fairs, and gvirc ∑ mead, prepared by honey sellers since ancient times. Also of interest is clay dishware, medenica baking dishes, as well as funny and inventive varalica and bilikum mugs, the name of the latter originating from the German word for welcome, willkommen. Also, do not miss varaædinski klipiÊ, a fragrant bread roll, now protected as cultural heritage, and whose warmth and unforgettable taste will touch your soul forever. n

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Piše/By Saša Špiranec Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ, HTZ (D. FabijaniÊ) CROATIA AIRLINES

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Zagorski bregi prestrmi su ili previsoki da bi se na njima uzgajalo neπto drugo do trsja. Zbog toga loza na njima raste tisuÊama godina i neizostavan je dio æivota tog kraja. U tom kutku Hrvatske, prekrivenom bezbrojnim bregovima, raaju se atraktivna i mirisna, osvjeæavajuÊa vina. Numerous hills, bregi, as they are called in the local dialect, are too steep or too high to grow anything but grapes. This is why grape vines have grown on them for thousands of years and why they are an essential part of the region’s life. In this corner of Croatia, covered in numerous hills, appealingly fragrant and refreshing wines are born.

likovite padine æivih zelenih boja u podnoæjima kojih se zadræavaju jutarnje maglice, pouzdano Ëuvaju svjeæinu i arome vina. »esto formirane u prirodne amﬁteatre, omoguÊuju idealnu insolaciju te jamËe potpuno i zdravo dozrijevanje groæa. Tako je to u Hrvatskom zagorju koje gravitira Zagrebu. Najviπe turista i posjetitelja dolazi iz Zagreba. »ak je i razmjeπtaj vinogorja takav da zajedno sa susjednim Prigorjem doslovno okruæuje Zagreb. Za stanovnike toga grada i turiste koji odsjedaju u njemu, Zagorje je idealno izletniËko odrediπte. Nudi boravak u prirodi, tradicionalnu hranu i mirisna lokalna vina. U Zagorju novac vrijedi viπe, osobito kad je vinski turizam posrijedi. Cijena butelje od dvadesetak ili tridesetak kuna na vratima vinarije sasvim je uobiËajena pojava, a cijene voenog kuπanja i obilaska vinarije za skupine poËinju veÊ od dvadeset pet kuna po osobi.

Osim prepolovljenih cijena vina u odnosu na primorska vinska odrediπta poput Dalmacije ili Istre, velika su prednost niæe cijene smjeπtaja i dvostruko duæa sezona, koja ovdje tradicionalno poËinje s Martinjem u studenome, a zavrπava potkraj ljeta, tek prije berbe. Zagorje je tradicionalno domovina bijelih vina. Tradicija se doduπe pomalo mijenja posljednja dva desetljeÊa, jer mnogo se vinara odluËio okuπati i s crnim sortama, pa je postalo uobiËajeno da vas se prilikom kuπanja nakon serije od nekoliko bijelih vina ponudi Ëaπom crnoga. Kako se s crnim vinima za sada joπ eksperimentira, vinari Êe paæljivo pratiti svaku vaπu reakciju i komentar. Pinot crni od crnih se sorata najbolje snaπao, no ima i veoma uspjeπnih primjera i drugih sorata poput frankovke ili cabernet sauvignona. Sortiment bijelih sorata zaista je velik. Najuspjeπnije se uzgajaju sorte namijenjene hladnijim krajevima poput rajnskog rizlinga, sauvignona ili muπkata æutog, no izvrsne rezultate pokazuju i silvanac zeleni, pinot bijeli i sivi, graπevina i chardonnay. Najπarmantniji dio vinskog naslijea ovog kraja svakako je proizvodnja za vlastite potrebe, hobistiËko vinarstvo ili takozvani vikend vinari. U bezbrojnim malim vinogradima cijele ove regije i danas nastaje ocean vina koje ne ugleda klasiËno træiπte za svoga æivotnog vijeka, nego bude popijen u podrumu ili kod kuÊe u druπtvu prijatelja i rodbine. Ta je tradicija, koja je bila osobito aktivna u vrijeme neπto opuπtenijeg socijalizma, zapravo iznjedrila one ponajbolje kojima su gosti zbog kvalitete vina osobito rado svraÊali i omoguÊili im da svoj hobi pretvore u biznis. Perjanice su zagorskog vinarstva vinarije Bodren i Bolfan. Pripadaju u najnagraivanije vinarije cijele Hrvatske, a respekt uæivaju i izvan nje. Tu tvrdnju podupiru sjajni izvozni rezultati vinarije Bolfan, Ëija se vina prodaju πirom Europe, te trofeji i mnoge zlatne medalje vinarije Bodren, osvojene na zahtjevnom i veoma utjecajnome meunarodnom natjecanju Decanter World Wines Awards u Londonu. Iza vodeÊeg dvojca slijedi nova generacija zagorskih vinara, koja nudi suvremena vina vrlo dobre kvalitete. VeÊina vinarija ovog kraja nudi i druge sadræaje osim vina. Uglavnom je to aktivan odmor: πetnje, jahanje i biciklistiËke ture nekim od najljepπih krajolika Hrvatske poput okoliπa Velikog Tabora, Kumrovca ili Krapine, uz popratne domaÊe specijalitete lokalne gastronomije i vrlo povoljan smjeπtaj u tradicijski ureenim prenoÊiπtima. Pri kuπanju vina usredotoËite se na bijela vina i na slatke predikate. Bijelim vinima Zagorja uvijek dominira atraktivna æivahnost, koja se povremeno ublaæava blago slatkastim notama, a u neπto toplijem Prigorju

slatkaste note neπto su rjee prisutne i vina postaju strukturiranija s Ëistim i jasnim sortnim aromama. Nekoliko godina odleæani rajnski rizling s dobro odmjerenim omjerom kiselina i πeÊera vjerno personiﬁcira prirodu vinarstva ovog kraja, Ëije su glavne osobine svjeæina i slast poduprijeti intenzivnim mirisom. Najvaænije vinske sorte Zagorski sortiment moæe se naËelno podijeliti na dvije skupine: skupinu meunarodnih sorata i onu domaÊih sorata. U prvoj se skupini nalaze rajnski rizling, chardonnay, silvanac, pinot crni, pinot bijeli, pinot sivi, traminac, muπkat æuti i drugi, a u skupini domaÊih nalaze se moslavac (puπipel, πipon), kraljevina, portugizac, plavec æuti, belina i drugi. U nastavku su opisane samo najvaænije ili one s najveÊim potencijalom. Meunarodne sorte Rajnski rizling u proπlosti nije bio odveÊ popularna sorta zbog loπih iskustava s hobistiËkim vinima vinara amatera, jer katkad su bila tako kisela da se ne bi mogla piti. Ali, potencijal je te sorte veliËanstven, πto sve viπe suvremenih vinara poput Bolfana to i pokazuje svojim sjajnim vinima. Atraktivnih su citrusnih mirisa s notama bagremova ili breskvina cvijeta, osvjeæavajuÊa i postojana okusa koji dobro izraæava mineralnost, te sa speciﬁËnim tercijarnim notama veÊ godinu nakon punjenja u bocu, koju kolokvijalno, u nedostatku boljeg opisa, nazivamo petrolejski πtih. To su svojstva koja trebamo oËekivati od dobrog rizlinga, a naÊi Êete ih kod glavnine vinara. Neki primjerci su joπ kompleksniji i bolji, ali to se veÊ ubraja u iznimke. Sauvignon je francuska sorta koju cijeli svijet oboæava zbog intenzivna mirisa i osvjeæavajuÊa okusa. Zbog toga je idealni izbor baπ u bregovitoj Hrvatskoj, koja svojim geoklimatskim uvjetima omoguÊava naglaπavanje tih traæenih svojstava. Pokoπena livada i svjeæa paprika najËeπÊe su arome kod svjeæijih primjeraka, a kod onih zrelijih, malo kasnijih rokova berbe, cvijet je to bazge. Silvanac zeleni njemaËka je sorta koja sjajno interpretira terroir bregovite Hrvatske. Kao i u svojoj domovini Frankenu, daje vesela i lagana vina, osvjeæavajuÊeg mirisa na zelene jabuke i note agruma. Zbog æivahnosti i solidna intenziteta okusa poæeljno je svakodnevno vino. Chardonnay je u ovom dijelu Hrvatske drugaËiji. Dok ga Slavonci rade preteæno kao snaæno i zrelo vino dozrijevano u drvenim baËvama, ovdje je dominantna tehnologija drugaËija. Najizraæenija je osobina voÊnost, i u nosu i u ustima. Zapravo, ta sorta prilagodljiva na sve klimatske uvjete ovdje moæe dati prekrasna i CROATIA AIRLINES

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se potroπi do sredine proljeÊa. Poslije izgubi voÊnost i ostane samo kiselina.

kompleksna vina, πto je davno dokazala vinarija Korak sa svojim remek-djelom Chardonnay sur lie, ali to je rijetkost. VeÊina ih vinara radi u standardnoj maniri kao osvjeæavajuÊe vino naglaπenih voÊnih karakteristika. Pinot sivi izvrsno se snaπao u ovoj regiji, bolje od roaka pinota bijeloga. U prohladnim uvjetima pinot sivi daje svojim obilnim aromama da se razmaπu. Obiluje zavodljivim tonovima poput banana, marelica i agruma, a istodobno s lakoÊom nakuplja slador i tijelo. Zbog toga Ëesto dolazi kao polusuho ili poluslatko vino, ali najbolje rezultate ipak pokazuje kao suho. Muπkat æuti zaduæen je za mirisne bombe. Nigdje drugdje muπkati ne miriπu tako intenzivno kao u zagorskim vinogradima. Ali cijena je takvog mirisa nedostatak tijela, pa su to vina koja treba troπiti brzo. »esto im se ostavlja manja ili veÊa koliËina neprovrela sladora, πto urodi zavodljivim slatkasto kiselkastim okusom. DomaÊe sorte Moslavac (puπipel, πipon, furmint), sluæbeno moslavac. Ali, staro lokalno ime puπipel vratilo se u sluæbenu upotrebu u vinogorju Meimurje. Moslavac je obiËno zbog izraæenih kiselina bio zaduæen za obiËne πpricere i gemiπte, ali od te se sorte rade i neki od najboljih slatkih predikata ovog kraja. Kad se posluæuje kao suho ili polusuho vino, obiËno je osvjeæavajuÊe, blago kiselkasto, s naglaπenom citrusnom svjeæinom i katkad dodirom slatkoÊe. Kraljevina je autohtona sorta koja se pronalazi po cijelom Prigorju, a povremeno i drugim regijama bregovite Hrvatske. Daje vina diskretna mirisa, niæih alkohola i poviπenih kiselina, zbog Ëega se smatra kraljicom gemiπta i πpricera. Portugizac nije autohtona sorta. NjemaËkog je porijekla, gdje je u meuvremenu izumrla. Ali u Prigorju i povremeno Zagorju potpuno se udomaÊila. Kao najranija sorta proizvede vino tako rano da se veÊ na prvim jesenskim kestenijadama toËi ovogodiπnji portugizac. Kiselkast, viπnjasto voÊan, vrlo je ugodan par upravo toplim kestenima, no treba paziti da ga 34

Putni savjeti Godiπnja doba nisu nikakav limit za odabir vremena posjeta, jer svako ima svoju unikatnu ljepotu, ali tijekom zime pripazite na vremensku prognozu jer snijeg katkad oteæa povratak i opuπteni izlet pretvara u pustolovinu. Pri odabiru restorana glavno je pitanje: seoski turizam ili klasiËni restoran. Pravog odgovora nema, to jest, vi morate izabrati. Restorani poput Academije ili Ville Magdalene kuhaju zaista veoma ﬁna jela, a u seoskom turizmu posluæuju jednostavna domaÊa jela, pa je viπe rijeË o aﬁnitetima. Ne zaboravite najaviti se. Najprije, kako ne biste naletjeli na zatvorena vrata, i, drugo, kako biste domaÊinu omoguÊili da se pripremi. RijeË je iskljuËivo o obiteljskim vinarijama gdje se, kako to u obiteljima Ëesto biva, nekim sluËajem u primaÊoj sobi zatekne nered baπ kad su vam nezvani gosti zazvonili na vrata. n

icturesque, bright green slopes, at the foot of which a morning mist lingers, are reliable keepers of the wine’s freshness and aroma. They are often shaped as natural amphitheatres, providing ideal insulation, thereby guaranteeing the complete and healthy ripening of grapes. So it is in Croatian Zagorje, which is inﬂuenced greatly by the City of Zagreb. Considered a hub to the north, most of the country’s tourists and visitors come from this capital city. Even the vineyards are distributed in such a way that they, together with the neighbouring Prigorje, literally encircle Zagreb. For the inhabitants of this city and the tourists who stay there, Zagorje is an ideal excursion destination. It offers a chance to enjoy the outdoors, traditional food and fragrant local wines. In Zagorje, your money is worth more than anywhere else, especially when it comes to wine tourism. It is common to pay between 20 or 30 HRK for a bottle of wine at a winery while the prices of guided tasting tours and winery visits start at 25 HRK per person. In addition to reduced prices (half the price of wine in other Adriatic destinations like Dalmatia and Istria), the region of Zagorje boasts lower prices for accommodation and an exceptionally-long tourist season, which is twice that of other areas, traditionally starting on St. Martin’s Day in November and ending in late summer, just before vintage starts. Traditionally, Zagorje has been the homeland of white wine. This tradition has been slowly changing over the last two decades, as many winemakers have decided to try their hand at

the red wine varieties; now, offering tasters a glass of red wine after a series of white has become commonplace. As the making of red wine is still in its infancy, winemakers will closely monitor your reactions and heed your comments. Overall, among the red varieties, Pinot noir is leading the pack followed by other highly successful varieties, such as Blaufränkisch or Cabernet Sauvignon. The assortment of white varieties is quite large. Varieties intended for cooler regions, like Rhine Riesling, Sauvignon or Yellow Muscat are grown with the most success, however, excellent results have also been achieved with Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Welschriesling and Chardonnay. The most charming part of the viticultural heritage of the region is the production for personal use: hobby winemaking, or so-called weekend winemakers. An ocean of wine is made in the region’s numerous vineyards, which never reaches the classic market in its lifetime, but is consumed in cellars or at home, in the company of friends and family. This tradition, which was particularly active in the era of relaxed socialism, has produced the best winemakers; the quality of whose wines have compelled their guests to return again and again, enabling them to turn their hobby into a business. The strongholds of Zagorje viticulture are the wineries of Bodren and Bolfan, which have won the most awards domestically and enjoy the respect of those beyond its borders. This is conﬁrmed by the excellent export results of the Bolfan winery, whose wines are sold throughout Europe, and who have won trophies as well as number of gold medals in demanding and exceptionally inﬂuential international competitions, such as the Decanter World Wines Awards in London. The leading duo, Bodren and Bolfan, are followed by an entire new generation of Zagorje winemakers offering modern wines of very high quality. The majority of wineries in the region also offer other attractions in addition to wine, such as active leisure activities: walking, horsebackriding and bicycle tours through some of Croatia’s most beautiful landscapes, like the surroundings of Veliki Tabor, Kumrovec or Krapina, with accompanying home-made local delicacies and affordable accommodation in traditionally decorated lodges. When tasting wine, focus on white wines and sweet predicates. The white wines of Zagorje are always dominated by an appealing vivacity, occasionally softened by slightly sweet notes, which are rarer than those in the somewhat warmer region of Prigorje, where wines are more structured, with pure and clear variety bouquets. Rhine Riesling which has aged a few years, with a precise ratio of acids and

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sugar, is a faithful portrayal of the region’s viticultural nature, whose main features are freshness and deliciousness, supported by a strong bouquet. The Most Important Grape Varieties Zagorje’s assortment of varieties can be divided into two groups: the international variety and the local variety. The ﬁrst group includes Rhine Riesling, Chardonnay, Sylvaner, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Yellow Muscat and others, while the second group consists of Furmint (also called Puπipel or ©ipon), Kraljevina, Blauer Portugieser, Plavec Æuti, Gouais Blanc, and others. Only the most important wines, the ones with the greatest potential are described below.

International Varieties Rhine Riesling was not a very popular variety in the past due to the low quality of hobby wines made by amateur winemakers, which were sometimes sour to the point of being undrinkable. However, this variety’s potential is magnificent, as a growing number of modern winemakers, like Bolfan have demonstrated with their wines. They feature an appealing citrus bouquet, acacia or peach flower notes, a refreshing and stable taste expressing a mineral quality, and specific tertiary aromas which are evident just after one year of aging in the bottle, or in colloquial terms, for lack of a better word, a touch of petroleum. These are the characteristics to be expected from good Riesling, which most winemakers provide. Some examples are better and even more complex, but these are exceptions. Sauvignon is a French variety of wine, adored around the world for its intense aroma and refreshing taste. These characteristics make it an ideal choice here in the Croatian Uplands, whose geo-climatic conditions seem to highlight these sought-after features. Fresh cut grass and fresh pepper are the most common fragrances in more recent samples, while the more mature wines, with a later vintage, have more of an elderberry aroma. Sylvaner is a German wine, which superbly interprets the terroir of the Croatian Uplands. As in its homeland of Franken, Zagorje produces merry and light wines, with a refreshing bouquet of green apples and citrus notes. Its vivacity and intense taste make it a desirable daily wine. Chardonnay is different in this part of Croatia. While residents of Slavonia mostly make it into a strong and mature wine, aged in wooden barrels, the dominant local technology is different. Fruitiness is the most striking feature, both in your nose and in your mouth. In fact, this variety, which easily adapts to any climate, can yield a beautiful and complex wine, as proven a long time ago by the Korak winery with its masterpiece, Chardonnay Sur Lie. However, this is a rare case. Most winemakers produce it in a standard way, as a refreshing wine with pronounced fruity characteristics. Pinot Gris has managed to do well in this region, better than its cousin, Pinot Blanc. In such cool climates, Pinot Gris gives its luscious aromas free reign. It is abundant in seductive tones like banana, apricot and citrus fruits, at the same time easily collecting sweetness and body. It therefore often comes as semi-dry or semi-sweet wine, but is nevertheless best as a dry wine. Yellow Muscat is responsible for perfume bombs. Nowhere else do muscats exude such intense aromas than in the vineyards of Zagorje. However, the price one pays for

such a fragrance is a lack of body, so these wines must be consumed quickly. Often, they are left with a smaller or greater quantity of unfermented sugar, which results in a taste that is seductive, sweet and acidic. Local Varieties Furmint (Puπipel, ©ipon, Furmint). Its official name is moslavac. However, the ancient local name puπipel has returned to official use in the wine-growing hills of Meimurje. Furmint was commonly used for spritzers due to its pronounced acidity; however, some of the region’s best sweet predicates are made of this variety. When served as dry or semi-dry wine, it is usually refreshing, slightly acidic, with a pronounced citrus freshness and an occasional touch of sweetness. Kraljevina is an autochthonous variety found throughout Prigorje, and sometimes in other parts of the Croatian Uplands. It yields wines with a discreet aroma, lower alcohol content and higher acidity, which makes it the queen of all spritzers. Portugieser is not an autochthonous variety. With its origins in Germany, it has become extinct there for the time being. However, it has found a new home in Prigorje and in parts of Zagorje. The earliest variety, Portugieser is produced so early that the wine is served at chestnut festivals in autumn of the same year. Acidic and fruity, like that of sour cherries, it a great match for hot chestnuts, but it must be consumed by mid-spring. After that, it loses its fruitiness and only acidity remains. Travel Advice The time of year is not an obstacle when choosing to visit the Croatian Uplands, as each season has its own unique beauty. However, you should keep an eye on the weather forecast in winter, because snow can make your return trip difficult and turn a relaxing excursion into an adventure. When selecting a restaurant, the biggest dilemma is choosing between rural tourism and classic restaurants. There is no correct answer, the choice is yours. Restaurants like Academia or Villa Magdalena make truly delicious food, while rural tourism facilities, on the other hand, serve simple, but home-made food, so a choice should be made based on preferences. Do not forget to announce your visit in advance: first to avoid coming when it’s closed and second, to give your hosts a chance to prepare for your visit. These are exclusively family-owned wineries where, as is often the case with families, the living room happens to be messy at the very moment when unexpected guests knock on the door. n

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■ KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA INLAND CROATIA

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Piπe/By Goranka Horjan

Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

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Hrvatsko zagorje breæuljkasti je kraj na sjeverozapadu Hrvatske, s onu stranu ZagrebaËke gore, odatle mu i ime. Ljepota njegove prirode isprepleÊe se s bogatom baπtinom i svi koji posjete taj pitomi, zeleni kraj, ondje Êe uistinu uæivati. Doite i uvjerite se!

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The Croatian Zagorje is a picturesque landscape in the north-west of Croatia, on the other side of the Zagreb Mountain (ZagrebaĂ&#x2039;ka gora), from which it derives its name. The natural beauty is entwined with rich heritage, and everybody who visits this gentle green region will be truly delighted. Come and see for yourself! CROATIA AIRLINES

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donaciju dr. Tuine. Tu je otvorena i vinoteka u kojoj se promiËu najbolja vina zagorskih vinara. Nekadaπnje πale na raËun zagorskoga kiseliπa danas su zaista proπlost, jer upravo su vina zagorskih proizvoaËa dobila mnoge meunarodne nagrade za kvalitetu. Svakako treba istaknuti nekoliko Decanterovih zlatnih i srebrnih medalja za Bodrenova desertna vina. Ljubitelji dobre kapljice u Zagorju zaista neÊe ostati razoËarani. Kad govorimo o Zagorju, moramo spomenuti i toplice, nastale zbog ljekovitih mineralnih vrela, a mnoge svojom ljekovitoπÊu pruæaju pomoÊ i olakπanje u lijeËenju zdravstvenih tegoba. Danas su one mjesta druæenja i zabave za cijelu obitelj, poput vodenog svijeta u Termama Tuhelj ili pak popularnih Stubaka. Terme JezerËica svojim novim wellness centrom privlaËe mnogo turista, a polaziπte su i za izlete u okolicu. A prometno i industrijsko srediπte grad je Zabok, kojemu zemljopisni poloæaj daje velike moguÊnosti gospodarskog razvoja. Pola je sata udaljen od hrvatske metropole, Zagreba.

ivot u Hrvatskom zagorju, kao i u zagorskim gradiÊima, moæe se opisati kao æivot po mjeri Ëovjeka. Zagorski su gradiÊi slikovite cjeline bogate kulturnom baπtinom, a ima uistinu mnogo onih koji su vrijedni posjeta. Svojom starom jezgrom istiËe se Klanjec. Smjeπten na breæuljku uz dolinu rijeke Sutle, kojom je nekad prolazila rimska cesta, nastao je kao podgrae utvrde Cesargrad, Ëiji su vlasnici bili grofovi Erdödy. U povijesnim izvorima potkraj 16. stoljeÊa zabiljeæeno je postojanje Ëak 36 plemiÊkih kurija na πirem podruËju Klanjca, od kojih danas nije saËuvana ni jedna. No zato je u srediπtu gradiÊa oËuvan kompleks franjevaËkog samostana koji, osim arhitekture i inventara, Ëuva veoma vrijednu zbirku baroknih slika te jedinstvene Erdödyjeve sarkofage, remek-djela umjetniËkog obrta. Dio æivota, crpeÊi iz ljepote kraja umjetniËko nadahnuÊe, u obliænjim Novim Dvorima KlanjeËkima proveo je pjesnik Antun MihanoviÊ pl. Petropoljski. Bistu autora Horvatske domovine, koja je poslije postala nacionalna himna, izradio je Robert Frangeπ MihanoviÊ, a BraÊa hrvatskog zmaja dala su podiÊi i spomenik hrvatskoj himni na lokaciji Zelenjak. Klanjec je rodno mjesto kipara Antuna AugustinËiÊa, koji je gradu darovao svoju umjetniËku ostavπtinu, za koju je sagraena Galerija s parkom skulptura. Klanjec se danas razvija kao turistiËko odrediπte i dio je turistiËke zone Po Sutli i

Æumberku, a svakog listopada organizira manifestaciju Zahvala jeseni. StoljeÊa su ostavila traga u materijalnim nalazima od prethistorije preko antike sve do danaπnjih dana. BronËanodobni nalazi, rimski spomenici i rana romanika donose malo svjedoËanstava, a srednji vijek ostavlja vidljivije tragove po kojima moæemo pratiti dostignuÊa kulture i umjetnosti. Barok je najbolje zastupljen s ladanjskim dvorcima, crkvama i kapelama. U vrijeme Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda Krapina je vodeÊi centar iz kojega dolazi Ljudevit Gaj, pa i danas Ëuva zbirku koja govori o vremenu rasplamsanoga nacionalnog ponosa i borbe za narodni jezik. Krapina, s kraljevskim povlasticama slobodnog trgoviπta, oduvijek je bila najznaËajnije æupanijsko srediπte jer pogodovala je razvoju obrta i cehova, a saËuvana cehovska πkrinja jedan je od najstarijih predmeta obrtniËke tradicije. Iz kasnijega industrijskog razdoblja, iz krapinske tvornice kamenine stiæu serije ukrasnih predmeta, a najpoznatiji su bilikumi i varalice, te pehar Krapinski sudec. U zapadnom dijelu Zagorja razvija se Pregrada, koja se takoer upisuje na turistiËku kartu zbog manifestacija kao πto je Berba grozdja. Lokalni kuburaπi, uz KegleviÊevu gardu, jedna su od glavnih atrakcija. U srediπtu Pregrade nalazi se i gradski muzej sa zanimljivim postavima o rudarskoj i ljekarniËkoj tradiciji kraja, a ima i vrlo vrijednu numizmatiËku zbirku,

Tradicija zagorskog sela Æelimo li, pak, upoznati seosku duπu Zagorja, najbolje je zaputiti se u selo Kumrovec, autentiËno ureen tradicijski prostor koji posjetitelje vraÊa na poËetak 20. stoljeÊa. Selo je smjeπteno u idiliËnom krajoliku doline rijeke Sutle, a u Ëetrdesetak obnovljenih tradicijskih graevina saznajemo kako su æivjeli naπi stari. Uza saËuvanu arhitekturu, hiæe mazanke i hiæe zidanke, muzej Ëuva etnografske predmete tematski postavljene prema razliËitim obrtima i obiËajima karakteristiËnima za regiju Hrvatskog zagorja. ObilazeÊi postave, vidimo kako se svakodnevica seoske obitelji izmijenila i kako su netragom nestali raznoliki obiËaji, svetkovine i poslovi. Promijenio se naËin privreivanja, pa stanovnici danas svoju egzistenciju viπe ne osiguravaju istim poslovima. Stoga tradicijske okuÊnice i vrtovi, πtaglji i koci poput zamrznute slike govore o nekadaπnjemu bogatome mozaiku æivota na selu. Joπ u poËetku proπloga stoljeÊa æivjelo se u zadruænim obiteljima, mladi parovi svoje su intimne trenutke dijelili u komoricama, a na imanju proizvodilo se sve πto je za æivot bilo nuæno. Danas samo uz pomoÊ kulturno-umjetniËkih druπtava − kad se uprizori Ëehatva ili belatva ∑ doæivimo dragocjene isjeËke proπlosti. Muzej Staro selo, osim razgleda postava, nudi razliËite sadræaje za posjetitelje kao πto su radionice i prezentacije obrta i vjeπtina te dogaanja kao πto je Zeleni Jura, ophodi zvezdara i sliËno. U Kumrovcu je i zadruæno imanje obitelji Broz s obnovljenom rodnom kuÊom Josipa Broza Tita u srediπtu sela, koja sadræava etnografski

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i povijesni postav. Titova bogata biograﬁja, od ranog djetinjstva, preko djelovanja u komunistiËkoj partiji, pobjede u Drugom svjetskom ratu pa sve do dugogodiπnje vladavine Jugoslavijom i danas dovodi u Kumrovec mnoge radoznalce, koji æele saznati poËetak priËe o tom politiËaru Ëije je djelovanje ostavilo traga. Kako je Zagorje dalo joπ jednoga dræavnika u proπlom stoljeÊu, Franju Tumana, prvog predsjednika slobodne i samostalne Republike Hrvatske, Ëesto se naziva regijom predsjednikã. Rodna kuÊa dr. Tumana nalazi se u Velikom TrgoviπÊu i otvorena je za posjete. Tradicijska kultura danaπnjem je Ëovjeku sinonim za izgubljeni spokoj i neko manje uæurbano vrijeme, kad se opuπtenije æivjelo, zabavljalo i zdravije jelo. Dio tog ugoaja mnogi pronalaze na seoskim domaÊinstvima gdje se vrijedni domaÊini trude stvoriti ugoaj u kojemu Êe se posjetitelji opustiti i uæivati u domaÊoj atmosferi. I zaista, od Greπnih gorica preko Vuglec brega i Kozjaka, pa sve do Majsecova mlina i Lojzekove hiæe, posjetitelji uæivaju okruæeni drvenom arhitekturom i lijepo ureenim dvoriπtima, upoznaju se s domaÊim æivotinjama ili pak πeÊu ribnjacima i vrtovima. A iz vruÊih kuhinja πire se mirisi zagorskih specijaliteta. A kaj to diπi u domaÊoj ponudi? To su zacijelo πtrukli kao specijalitet regije. Mogu biti predjelo, glavno jelo ili desert, spremljeni kao kuhani, peËeni ili pak kuhani pa zapeËeni. Na godiπnjoj æupanijskoj ©truklijadi teπko je pronaÊi pobjednika. Purica s mlincima nezaobilazni je dio ponude i to samo ako je purica domaÊa, odnosno ona koja se natrËala po dvoriπtu i ispravno hranila. InaËe Êe je spremno zamijeniti kopun ili peËena raca. A zimsko razdoblje donosi nove delicije poput krvavica i peËenica, bunceka i lokota sa zeljem ili pak mesa iz banjice. Tu je i svjeæi kravlji sir s vrhnjem, πunka i kobase. Za ljubitelje slatkoga tu su gibanice − makove, orahove, sirne ili pekmezove. Nema druge no zaputiti se do jednoga takvog domaÊinstva i kušati barem neπto od bogate ponude. Vremeplovom u najdalju proπlost OtkriÊe ostataka neandertalskog Ëovjeka u Krapini potkraj 19. stoljeÊa upisalo je Krapinu na kartu najvaænijih prirodoslovnih lokaliteta u svijetu, a nalaziπte Huπnjakovo u struËnoj je i znanstvenoj literaturi poznato kao ono s najbogatijom fosilnom zbirkom naenom na jednome mjestu. Dragutin GorjanoviÊ Kramberger, istaknuti hrvatski znanstvenik koji je istraæio ovaj lokalitet i prvi obradio krapinsku zbirku, bio je veoma cijenjen meu svjetskim struËnjacima svoga doba, a njegove metode prouËavanja bile su jedinstvene i inovativne za vrijeme u kojemu je djelovao i radio.

Novi Muzej krapinskih neandertalaca temelji se na toj ideji izvrsnosti i jedinstvenosti koju je utemeljio Kramberger i danas je zacijelo jedan od najatraktivnijih i najposjeÊenijih muzeja u Hrvatskoj. Autori projekta i realizacije muzeja, arhitekt Æeljko KovaËiÊ i paleontolog Jakov RadovËiÊ, ostvarili su izvrstan spoj arhitekture i postava koji na zanimljiv naËin temu evolucije pokazuje πirokoj javnosti. Muzej se koristi najsuvremenijim pomagalima koja na naËin blizak danaπnjoj publici tumaËe sadræaje vezane uz senzacionalno otkriÊe u Krapini, razvoj Ëovjeka, te razliËita objaπnjenja koja o tome postoje. Kronoloπki postavljene teme pribliæavaju posjetiteljima otkriÊe u svjetlu znanstvenih spoznaja koje su mu prethodile ili mu slijedile, daju uvid u postanak Zemlje i razvoj æivota na naπem planetu, te ih, napokon, upoznaju sa æivotom neandertalaca i nastankom suvremenog Ëovjeka. U istraæivanju tih osnovnih pitanja naπeg postanka rabe se multimedijalne instalacije, ﬁlmovi, virtualne πetnje, hologrami i ostale nove tehnologije u opsegu koji u Hrvatskoj joπ nije upotrijebljen u stalnim muzejskim postavima, pa ne Ëudi πto je muzej dobio mnoge nagrade i priznanja. Geoloπka proπlost Zagorja dijeli sudbinu πireg prostora i donosi mnoge zanimljivosti. Kad prolazimo kroz Podsused, na izlazu iz Zagreba prema Zagorju, moæemo vidjeti instalaciju kostura kita, izraenu prema stvarnim fosilnim

nalazima, koji podsjeÊaju da je nekoÊ ovdje bilo Panonsko more. Fosilni nalaz vinove loze u Radoboju Zagorci takoer mogu dobro iskoristiti za promidæbu vinogradarske tradicije. Proπtenja i poboænosti Nacionalno svetiπte Majke Boæje u Mariji Bistrici ima dugu, viπestoljetnu povijest. Mjesto Bistrica dobilo je ime po potoku koji protjeËe kroz mjesto, a spominje se prvi put 1209. godine u povelji hrvatsko−ugarskog kralja Andrije II. kao i susjedna Stubica. Æupa u Bistrici spominje se u prvom saËuvanom popisu æupa iz 1334., ali tada je crkva bila je posveÊena sv. Petru i Pavlu. Godine 1731. biskup Juraj Branjug posvetio je novoureenu crkvu Snjeænoj Gospi, jer marijanski je kult bio veoma snaæan u 18. stoljeÊu. Stoga su zagorske proπtenjarske crkve uglavnom i posveÊene toj blagoj zaπtitnici i zagovornici puka. Remek-djelo zagorskoga baroka nalazimo u crkvi Marije Snjeæne u Belcu, pravom Gesamtkunstwerku, u kojemu arhitektura, zidne slike, oltari, propovjedaonica i ograda pjevaliπta sjedinjuju djela vrhunskih majstora u jedinstveni umjetniËki doæivljaj. Kvaliteta i raskoπ interijera svjedoËe kako donatori, pripadnici zagorskoga plemstva, nisu æalili sredstava kako bi nova crkva zasjala u punom sjaju. Skulptorski opus izvrsno nadopunjuju zidne slike, rad vrhunskog majstora iluzionistiËkog CROATIA AIRLINES

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slikarstva, pavlina Ivana Krstitelja Rangera. Dolazak i zanimanje hodoËasnika za crkve posveÊene Majci Boæjoj potaknuli su graane Krapine da sagrade kompleks na Trπkome Vrhu. Crkva je opremljena prekrasnim baroknim oltarima, a zidne slike oslikao je Antun Lerchinger, kojemu se pripisuju i profane zidne slike u dvorcu Miljana. Crkva Majke Boæje Gorske kod Lobora jedan je od najzanimljivijih lokaliteta u kontinentalnoj Hrvatskoj, a arheoloπka istraæivanja joπ i danas donose na svjetlo dana fascinantna otkriÊa. VeÊ u doba antike Lobor je, kao dio rimske provincije Panonije Savije, oËito imao vaænu ulogu, o Ëemu svjedoËe nadgrobni rimski spomenici naeni u okolici. Na lokalitetu je bio podignut poganski hram u kojem se vjerojatno πtovala Velika Majka, jer tu su pronaeni dijelovi njezina kipa. Poslije se gradi starokrπÊanska bazilika, zatim drvena crkva, a u kasnome srednjem vijeku i zidana. Barokno razdoblje takoer ostavlja svoj peËat. To proπtenjarsko srediπte prava je riznica kulture i umjetnosti, koja koja govori o vitalnosti ovoga podruËja i kontinuitetu æivota od antike do danas. Burgovi i dvorci Zagorje se ponosi svojim dvorcima i trudi se udahnuti u njih novi æivot. U nekima su smjeπteni muzeji i zbirke kao u Velikom Taboru, Sv. Kriæu ZaËretju ili pak Muzej seljaËkih 64

buna u Gornjoj Stubici. Pojedini su rezidencije poznatih poduzetnika, kao πto je to sluËaj s Miljanom, neki su dobili manje sretne sadræaje, zdravstvene ili socijalne, kao πto su Lobor, BedekovËina ili Zajezda, πto je ipak mnogo bolje od propadanja koje je zadesilo mnoge. Utvrene gradove ili burgove znatno je teæe saËuvati, na njihovim vrhovima nataloæilo se joπ viπe stoljeÊa. Cesargrad, Kostel ili Milengrad danas su u ruπevnom stanju, ali svejedno oduzimaju dah poloæajem i impresivnim zidinama. Neki od dvoraca oæivjeli su na temelju glazbe, na primjer StubiËki Golubovec, sjediπte druπtva Kajkavijana, koji je poËeo s organizacijom koncerata za domaÊu publiku, πto se poslije proπirilo i na druga odrediπta. Kao da æele svjedoËiti o proπlim gostovanjima glazbenih umjetnika u Zagorju. Izmeu dva rata u Donjoj Stubici gostovala je primadona svjetskoga glasa Zinka Kunc, koja je nastupila u æupnoj crkvi. Obitelj Vraniczany na svom je posjedu u Oroslavju ugostila slavnoga Franza Liszta, a pripadnica obitelji KegleviÊ bila je uËenica genijalnog Beethovena. Prikupimo li sve te brojne podatke i zanimljivosti, postaje jasno zaπto su Muzeji Hrvatskog zagorja prije nekoliko godina pokrenuli projekt Legende i priËe iz zagorskih dvoraca, u kojima se isprepleÊu sudbine predstavnika razliËitih staleæa. Proπlost do nas stiæe u fragmentima,

a tijekom stoljeÊa golicala je maπtu mnogih koji su prenosili predaju o moÊnim vlastelinima i njihovim podanicima te o gordim kamenim gradovima opasanima visokim zidinama. U legendama se isprepleÊu maπta i stvarnost, a posjetitelji burgova uvijek ih rado sasluπaju. Dvorac Veliki Tabor, najoËuvaniji zagorski burg, bogato je vrelo priËa i legendi. Od malih zastraπujuÊih dogaaja nadahnutih narodnim praznovjerjem, poput one o ponoÊnom lupanju po gradskim vratima ili pak o povorci kostura koja se ukazuje uoËi Svih svetih, pa sve do punokrvnih legendi kakva je ona o Veroniki DesiniËkoj. Velikotaborska ljepotica, koja je osvojila srce Fridrika Celjskog i tako izazvala niz tragiËnih dogaaja koje moæemo pratiti s pomoÊu povijesnih izvora, dobila je i svoju inaËicu u romantiËnoj legendi koja je nadahnula mnoge umjetnike te je uprizorena na brojnim pozornicima. Pripadnici obitelji Rattkay, vlasnici Velikog Tabora, dolaze na scenu neπto poslije, no njihovi stvarni æivoti veoma su zanimljivi i pruæaju dobar uvid u svakodnevicu proπlosti. Vlasnik Velikog Tabora Petar II. Rattkay bio je jedan od najistaknutijih plemiÊa u Hrvatskoj u 16. stoljeÊu, veliki junak u borbama protiv Osmanlija, ali i sudionik u guπenju SeljaËke bune 1573. godine. No imao je vremena i za buran ljubavni i braËni æivot s Ëak Ëetiri æene. I muzejski predmeti pronaeni u tome fascinantnom dvorcu imaju svoje legende, poput one o dvorepoj sireni, vili Meluzini i njezinoj nemoguÊoj ljubavi vile s vitezom Raymondineom. U Kaπtelu u Donjoj Stubici, koji je, uza Susedgrad, bio utvrda moÊnog Franje Tahyja, danas arheoloπka istraæivanja provode Muzeji Hrvatskog zagorja. Sukob izmeu Henningovaca, gospodara susedgradsko-stubiËkog vlastelinstva, i novog vlasnika Franje Tahyja, takoer donosi niz zanimljivih dogaaja. A uza silnika Tahyja, koji je krvavo guπio seljaËku bunu, vezuje se legenda o njegovoj nadgrobnoj ploËi πto se nalazila u donjostubiËkoj crkvi. Navodno se neprestano vlaæila, pa je predaja to rastumaËila kako se Tahy u grobu znoji zbog poËinjenih nedjela. Predaje i priËe zaËete u srednjovjekovnim utvrenim gradovima poslije dobivaju nove verzije u vezi s ladanjskim baroknim dvorcima i u autentiËnim lokacijama uvode se u povijest zagorskih dvoraca. Povijest obitelj OrπiÊ, koja je u posjed dvorca u Gornjoj Stubici doπla zbog ubojstva barunice KegleviÊ, kao da je navukla zlu kob na mnoge svoje pripadnike. Stvarni povijesni dogaaj vezan uz rastavu lijepe i obrazovane Marije Terezije Wintershoffen od Antuna OrπiÊa 1700. godine, bio je prvorazredni skandal πto je potaknuo mnoge priËe, a i razjareni suprug optuæio je bivπu

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æivotnu druæicu za Ëarobnjaπtvo. Bernardin OrπiÊ nesretno je stradao od ruke ljubomorne ljubavnice, a tek u smirenom liku Krste OrπiÊa, koji je bio posveÊen poslu i obitelji, nalazimo prekid obiteljskih ljubavnih tragedija. Joπ jedan zagorski plemiÊ bio je osobito zanimljiv damama, Sigismund Vojkfy, pa je najvjerojatnije upravo on posluæio Mariji JuriÊ Zagorki za lik Siniπe u GriËkoj vjeπtici. Tragom GupËevih puntara Velika seljaËka buna ili Muπka punta jedan je od najznaËajnijih dogaaja u hrvatskoj povijesti 16. stoljeÊa. Borba za stare pravice u poËetku je imala golem uspjeh i u nekoliko dana zahvatila veliki dio Hrvatskog zagorja, jugoistoËne dijelove Donje ©tajerske i dio Dolenjske te krajeve juæno od Save do OkiÊa i Jastrebarskog. Proπirila se na desetak vlastelinstava i trajala samo dvanaestak dana. Zavrπna bitka odvijala se na stubiËkom polju 9. veljaËe 1573. godine. Buna je i danas sinonim za pokuπaj maloga Ëovjeka da zadræi ljudsko dostojanstvo i izbori se za svoja prava. KarizmatiËni lik Matije Gupca nadahnuo je mnoge umjetnike, a i danas je, Ëak i prema anketama koje ispituju miπljenje javnosti, upravo Matija Gubec izabran za najpopularniju povijesnu liËnost. Monumentalni spomenik u Gornjoj Stubici ovjekovjeËio je bunu i njezina vou. Aleja lipa oblikuje πetnicu od Muzeja seljaËkih buna do GupËeve lipe, a legenda govori da su se ustaniËki kapetani sastajali baπ pod njezinom kroπnjom. Selo Hiæakovec u Donjoj Stubici poznato je kao rodno mjesto Matije Gupca, Ëije je pravo ime vjerojatno bilo Ambroz. U Hiæakovcu se ureuju tradicijska imanja, otvoren je postav u maloj drvenoj kuÊici nazvanoj GupËeva hiæa, a nedavno je ondje zasaen i æivi arhiv GupËeve lipe u kojemu se moæe nabaviti mladica s potvrdom o originalnom podrijetlu. SeljaËka buna i naziv je manifestacije koju je osmislio Muzej seljaËkih buna, a odvija se svake veljaËe u organizaciji viteπkih udruga, koje uprizoruju prikaze bitke. Tradicijski obrti i vjeπtine Hrvatsko je zagorje uvijek bilo dinamiËno mjesto susreta i utjecaja. Zabiljeæeni su mnogi dolasci stranih majstora obrtnika te odlazak domaÊih u druge zemlje na usavrπavanje. Simbiozu novih trendova s lokalnim tradicijama moæemo pratiti u slojevitom podruËju umjetniËkih i tradicijskih obrta, a dokaz tomu vrijedna su ostvarenja koja dokumentiraju rad majstora razliËitih proﬁla u gotovo svim djelatnostima i aktivnostima zajednice. »itamo li popise obrta koji su se nekoÊ prakticirali u Krapinsko-zagorskoj æupaniji, postaje nam jasnije koliko njih je nepovratno izgubljeno. Oni koji su opstali danas postaju

vrijedna nematerijalna baπtina Hrvatskog zagorja, Hrvatske ali i svijeta. Osobito smo ponosni na dva upisana fenomena na Unescovu Reprezentativnu listu nematerijalne baπtine ËovjeËanstva, na kojoj tradicijske drvene djeËje igraËke i licitari na najbolji moguÊi naËin pronose glas o obrtniËkoj tradiciji zagorskoga kraja. Tradicija mediËarskoga i svjeÊarskog obrta postoji u sjeverozapadnoj Hrvatskoj, odnosno u Hrvatskom zagorju, nekoliko stotina godina, a licitari su gotovo postali zaπtitni znak svetiπta u Mariji Bistrici. Tijekom proπtenja mjesto oæivi πarenilom πtandova ukraπenih æivopisnim licitarskim proizvodima i tradicijskim igraËkama. U Mariji Bistrici nailazimo i na najveÊu koncentraciju mediËara i svjeÊara u Hrvatskoj. Jedna od najslikovitijih prodavaonica na srediπnjem trgu svakako je ona obitelji Mahmet. Najstarija radionica Zozzoly - Hubicki takoer se nalazi na srediπnjemu trgu, a radionica BrleËiÊ, osim prodaje svojih proizvoda, posjetiteljima nudi i razgled zbirke posveÊene tom obrtu. Proπtenjari mogu u Bistrici predahnuti uz tradicijsko piÊe gvirc ili medicu. Oni se najËeπÊe piju u ljetnim mjesecima. ToËe se iz baËvi i piju uvijek s ledom. Slasni medenjaci takoer nikoga neÊe ostaviti ravnoduπnim. U Hrvatskom zagorju drvene djeËje igraËke i djeËje svirale izrauju se gotovo dvije stotine godina. StubiËki i BistriËki Laz najpoznatija su sela u kojima se ta tradicija oËuvala do danas.

U Tugonici i TurniπÊu proizvode se tradicijska djeËja glazbala − tamburice i gitare. PuËke svirale ili popularne æveglice danas radi joπ nekoliko majstora u Lazu. Rade se od vrbova ili javorova drveta, a prepoznatljive su po intenzivnoj æutoj boji, iako se sve ËeπÊe danas boje bojama karakteristiËnima za ostale igraËke i ukraπavaju razliËitim ornamentima − cvjetnima ili geometrijskima. IgraËke u obliku tradicijskog namjeπtaja ukljuËuju stolove, stolËeke, kredence, ormare, krevetiÊe i zipke. Namjeπtaj je najËeπÊe obojen u intenzivnu plavu ili crvenu boju i ukraπen stiliziranim cvjetnim motivima. Djecu vesele sve igraËke koje se okreÊu ili vrte, poput pokretnih zapreænih kola ili pak plesaËa zvanih tanceri, a sviaju im se i pokretne igraËke poput leptira ili klepetaljki koje se guraju na πtapu i proizvode glasan zvuk − na uæas odraslih. Omiljeni su i crni konjiÊi na kotaËima, s bijelim i crvenim ukrasima te ukraπeni joπ i krznenim grivama. IgraËke izrauju muπkarci, a boje ih uvijek æene. Unikatni su rad i prodaju se na proπtenjima, nedjeljnim sajmovima, na zagrebaËkom Dolcu, a danas Ëesto majstori putuju i u udaljenije krajeve, sve ËeπÊe i u turistiËka mjesta duæ obale. Jedan od najstarijih obrta na podruËju Hrvatskog zagorja bio je kovaËki. Kao i mnogi drugi, obrt je bio obiteljski i nasljeivao se s oca na sina, πto i danas moæemo pratiti u CROATIA AIRLINES

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kovaËkoj obitelji Miπak u Sv. Kriæu ZaËretju. Veliko bogatstvo tradicijskih obrta i umjetniËkih ekspresija koje su se oblikovale u radionicama zagorskih obrtnika teπko je saæeti u jedno poglavlje, no valja istaknuti da Zagorje ima velik ljudski kapital upravo u tradicijskim i umjetniËkim obrtima i znaËajnog pokretaËa regionalnog razvoja. Zagorje kao bajka na dlanu nezamisliva je bez vrijednih ruku obrtnika, koji prirodnim ljepotama veÊ stoljeÊima daju ljudsku dimenziju. ■ ife in the Croatian Zagorje, as well as in its towns, can be best described as human-sized. Towns in Zagorje are picturesque urban entities, rich in cultural heritage, and many of them are truly worth visiting. Distinguished by its old centre, Klanjec is situated on a small hill in the valley of the Sutla river through which a Roman road once ran. It originated as a settlement just south of the Cesargrad Fortress, owned by counts Erdödy. Historical sources from the end of the 16th century recorded as many as 36 aristocratic manors in the greater Klanjec area, none of which exist today. However, the town’s centre boasts the well-preserved Franciscan monastery complex which, in addition to its architecture and inventory, keeps a very valuable collection of Baroque paintings, as well as the unique Erdödy sarcophagi, masterpieces of artistic craft. The poet Antun MihanoviÊ pl. Petropoljski (pl. signifying his aristocratic origins) spent a part of his life drawing inspiration from the beauty of nature at the nearby Novi Dvori KlanjeËki. The bust of the author of the poem Hrvatska domovina (Croatian Homeland), which would later become the national anthem, was created by Robert Frangeπ MihanoviÊ, and the BraÊa Hrvatskog zmaja (Brothers of the Croatian Dragon) had the monument built in honor of the Croatian anthem at Zelenjak. Klanjec is also the birthplace of the sculptor Antun AugustinËiÊ, who bequeathed to his home town his artistic heritage, and for whom a gallery and sculpture park was constructed. Today, Klanjec is fast becoming a tourist destination. Already part of the Po Sutli i Æumberku tourist zone, it organizes the festival Zahvala jeseni (Thanksgiving to Autumn Festival) every October. Centuries have also left their mark on material ﬁnds, from prehistoric time to antiquity to the modern age. Bronze Age ﬁnds, Roman monuments and early Romanesque art have left few traces, while the Middle Ages left more evident remnants from which to study cultural and artistic accomplishments. The most well represented age is Baroque, with its country manors, churches and chapels. During the

Croatian National Revival, Krapina was the leading centre, the home town of Ljudevit Gaj, and which even today has a collection that is a testament to a time of fiery national pride and struggle for the native language. Royally privileged in terms of being a free trade centre, Krapina has always been the most significant county, favouring the development of crafts and guilds, one of which survives today as the oldest traditional object. In the latter part of the industrial era, the Krapina stoneware factory produced numerous lines of decorative wares, the most famous of which were bilikum and varalica mugs, and the Krapinski sudec pitcher. Pregrada is another developing town in the western part of Zagorje, and is also included on the tourist map due to festivals such as Berba grozdja (The Wine Harvest Festival). The local kuburaπi (pistol shooters), in addition to the KegleviÊ Guard, are one of the main attractions. The town museum is in the centre of Pregrada, with its interesting holdings related to the mining and pharmaceutical tradition of the area, and featuring a very valuable numismatic collection, donated by Dr. Tuina. A wine cellar promoting Zagorje’s winemakers’ finest wines has also been opened here. Popular jokes that once referred to the wines of Zagorje mockingly as kiseliπ (sour liquid) are indeed a thing of the past, as it is the wines produced in Zagorje that have received many international awards for quality - several Decanter’s gold and silver medals for Bodren dessert wine deserve mention. Lovers of fine wine will surely not be disappointed by Zagorje. We cannot speak of Zagorje without mentioning spas, which came out of the medicinal mineral springs there, and whose healing properties offer help and relief in the treatment of different ailments. Today, they are places for socializing and entertainment for families, like Waterworld in Terme Tuhelj or StubiËke Toplice, popularly called Stubaki. With their new wellness centre, Terme JezerËica attract numerous tourists, and are also the starting point for excursions to the entire region. The town of Zabok is a traffic and industrial hub, whose geographical position gives it great possibilities for economic development. It is half an hour away from the Croatian capital of Zagreb. Zagorje Village Tradition If, on the other hand, you wish to get to know Zagorje’s rural soul, the best destination is the village of Kumrovec, an authentically designed traditional place, which brings visitors back to the early 20th century. The village is

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situated in the idyllic landscape of the Sutla River Valley, and some forty reconstructed traditional buildings show us how our ancestors used to live. In addition to the surviving architecture, hiæe mazanke and hiæe zidanke, the museum keeps ethnographic objects, grouped according to different crafts and customs characteristic of the Croatian Zagorje region. Looking at the exhibits, we realize how the daily life of a peasant family has changed and that different customs, holidays and types of work have vanished. The way money is earned has also changed; the locals no longer ensure their subsistence by the same jobs as before. Therefore, traditional crofts and gardens, barns and pigpens speak, like frozen images, of the once-rich village life mosaic. Back in the early 20th century, people lived in extended families, young couples shared their intimate moments in small chambers, and everything needed to live was produced on the estate. Today, only folklore societies allow us ∑ when they stage Ëehatva (feather plucking) or belatva (corn cleaning) ∑ to experience precious fragments of the past. The Museum Staro selo (Old Village), in addition to exhibits, offers different attractions for visitors, such as workshops and presentations of crafts and skills, as well as events like Zeleni Jura (Green George), and zvezdari (carol singers) processions etc. In Kumrovec, there is also the cooperative estate of the Broz family, with the reconstructed house where Josip Broz Tito was born. Located in the centre of the village, it contains ethnographic and historical holdings. Tito’s rich biography, from early childhood, to his activism in the Communist Party, victory in World War II and his long presidency of the former Yugoslavia bring many curious visitors to Kumrovec, especially those wishing to know the early story of a politician whose life left such a signiﬁcant mark. As Zagorje is the birthplace of another 20th century statesman, Franjo Tuman, the ﬁrst president of the free and independent Republic of Croatia, it is often nicknamed the presidential region. The house where Dr. Tuman was born is in Veliko TrgoviπÊe and is open to visitors. For modern man, traditional culture is synonymous with a lost tranquillity and a less hectic time, where life was more relaxed and fun, and food was healthier. Many people find a glimmer of this ambiance in rural households, where hard-working hosts do their utmost to create an environment where the visitors can relax and enjoy the homey feel. Of course, in visiting Greπne gorice, as well as Vuglec breg and Kozjak, Majsecov mlin and Lojzekova hiæa, visitors have a

great time, being surrounded by wooden architecture and beautifully manicured yards, getting friendly with domestic animals or walking around ponds and gardens. All the while, the hot kitchens spread aromas of Zagorje’s delicacies. And what is it that smells so sweet on the local menu? It must be πtrukli (cottage cheese-filled pastry), the region’s specialty. They can be served as an appetizer, main course or dessert - boiled, baked, or first boiled then browned. It is difficult to establish the winner of the annual county festival ©truklijada. Turkey with mlinci (flatbread) is an obligatory part of what’s on offer, and the turkey definitely needs to be home-bred, meaning it must be free-range and fed with high-quality food. Otherwise, it will be replaced by capon or roast duck. And winter time brings new treats, such as black pudding or fried sausage, pork shank and lokot with sauerkraut or meat in the pail. You can also taste fresh cottage cheese with cream, ham and sausages. Those with a sweet tooth can relish in gibanica, cakes with poppy seeds, cheese or jam. You simply must visit one of these households and try at least some of the rich treats they offer. Taking a Time Machine to Ancient History With the discovery of Neanderthal remnants in Krapina at the end of the 19th century, the town joined the ranks as one of the most significant natural history sites in the world, with the Huπnjakovo site being known in technical and scientific literature as having the richest fossil collection found in a single location. Dragutin GorjanoviÊ Kramberger, a prominent Croatian scientist who studied this site and was the first to sort out the Krapina collection, was highly esteemed among the world’s experts of the era; his research methods were unique and innovative in the context of time in which he lived and worked. The new Krapina Neanderthal Museum is based on the idea of excellence and uniqueness established by Kramberger and is today certainly one of the most attractive and most visited museums in Croatia. The authors of the museum project and its coming to fruition, architect Æeljko KovaËiÊ and palaeontologist Jakov RadovËiÊ, have created an extraordinary combination of architecture and exhibits, which bring the topic of evolution to a broad public in an interesting way. The most modern aids are used to comprehensively explain material related to the sensational Krapina discovery to a contemporary audience, namely the evolution of humans, as well as different theories on this matter. Topics displayed chronologically make the visitors CROATIA AIRLINES

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Lerchinger, who is also credited with secular murals at Castle Miljana. The Church of Our Lady of the Mountains near Lobor is one of the most interesting sights in continental Croatia, and archaeological research continues to bring out fascinating discoveries about it. Back in the age of antiquity, Lobor apparently had an important role as part of the Roman province of Pannonia Savia; Roman tombstones found in the area conﬁrm this. At this site, a pagan temple was built, where the Great Mother was probably worshipped, and where the remains of her sculpted portrait were found. Later, an early Christian basilica was built, followed by a wooden church, and then by a stone church. The Baroque era also left its mark. This shrine, which has hosted festivals, is a true treasury of culture and art, and only speaks to the vitality of this region and the continuity of life since ancient times until the present day.

familiar with the discovery, in combination with the scientific knowledge preceding and following it, give them insight into the origins of the Earth and the evolution of life on our planet; and finally, introduce them to the life of Neanderthals and the evolution of modern humans. In studying these fundamental issues related to our origins, multimedia installations, movies, virtual walks, holograms and other new technologies are used to a degree never before employed in Croatia in permanent exhibitions, and because of which has led to the museum, not surprisingly, winning many awards and prizes. Zagorje’s geological history shares the fate of the wider region and is rich in interesting content. As we pass through Podsused, exiting from Zagreb in the direction of Zagorje, we can see an installation of a whale’s skeleton, created according to actual fossil findings, which reminds us that this area was once under the Pannonian Sea. Zagorje inhabitants can also put fossil finds of vine in Radoboj to good use in promoting their viticultural tradition. Church Festivals and Devotional Activities The National Shrine of Our Lady of Marija Bistrica has a centuries-long history. The town of Bistrica was named after the brook running through it, and was first mentioned in 68

1209, in the Croatian-Hungarian King Andrew II’s charter, as was the neighbouring Stubica. The parish in Bistrica was ﬁrst mentioned on the oldest surviving list of parishes from 1334; however, at that time the church was dedicated to Sts. Peter and Paul. In 1731, Bishop Juraj Branjug consecrated the newlyreconstructed church, Our Lady of the Snows, as Marian devotions were very strong in the 18th century. Therefore, the churches of Zagorje, where church festivals were held, are mostly dedicated to this gentle protectress and intercessor of the people. The masterpiece of Zagorje’s Baroque art can be found at the Church of Our Lady of the Snows in Belec, which is a true Gesamtkunstwerk, where architecture, murals, altars, the pulpit and choir rail combine works of the ﬁnest masters into a single experience of art. The quality and luxuriousness of the interior testify to the fact that donors, members of the Zagorje aristocracy, were not frugal in making the new church shine in full splendour. The sculpture works are beautifully complemented by murals created by the master of illusionist painting, the Pauline Ivan Krstitelj Ranger. The attendance and interest of pilgrims in churches dedicated to the Virgin Mary motivated the citizens of Krapina to build a complex in Trπki Vrh. The church features exquisite Baroque altars, while the murals were painted by Antun

Burgs and Castles Zagorje takes pride in its castles and always makes an effort to breathe new life into them. Some of them house museums and art collections, like the ones in Veliki Tabor, Sv. Kriæ ZaËretje or the Museum of Peasant Revolts in Gornja Stubica. Some are residences of well-known entrepreneurs, as is the case with Miljana; others serve less fortunate purposes, namely as healthcare or social services institutions, like Lobor, BedekovËina or Zajezda. All of these, however, have seen a better fate than the dilapidation that many others have suffered. Fortiﬁed castles or burgs are much harder to preserve as more and more layers are added to them over the centuries. Although Cesargrad, Kostel or Milengrad are in a dilapidated condition today, their impressive walls and position on the rolling hill are breath-taking. It was music that gave new life to some of the castles, such as StubiËki Golubovec, the headquarters of the Kajkavijana society, which started organizing concerts for local audiences; these concerts have since spread to other locations. It seems the society wanted to rekindle the memory of past performances by famous musicians in Zagorje. Between the two world wars, Donja Stubica was visited by the world-famous prima donna, Zinka Kunc, who performed at the parish church. The Vraniczany family received the famous composer Franz Liszt as their guest, and a girl from the KegleviÊ family was a student of Beethoven. With all these pieces of information and interesting facts, it has become clear why, a couple of years ago, museums of the Croa-

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tian Zagorje started the project Legends and Stories of Zagorje Castles, in which fates of people from different classes intertwine. The past reaches us in fragments, and throughout centuries, it has aroused the imagination of many people who passed on stories of powerful noblemen and their subjects, and of proud, stone-built castles sheltered by tall walls. In legends, fantasy and reality merge, and visitors to burgs are always eager to hear them. Castle Veliki Tabor, the most well-preserved burg in Zagorje, is a rich source of tales and legends, ranging from minor events inspired by folk superstition, like the story of midnight knocks on the castle door or the procession of skeletons appearing in the Halloween night, to full-blooded legends, like the legend of Veronika DesiniËka. The reigning beauty of Veliki Tabor, who captured the heart of Frederick of Celje, causing a series of tragic events, which can be tracked in historical sources, was immortalized in a romantic legend, which inspired many artists and was set to many a stage. The members of the Rattkay family, who owned Veliki Tabor, arrived to the scene much later, but their actual lives were very intriguing and offered a good insight into the daily life of the past. The owner of Veliki Tabor, Petar II Rattkay, was one of the most prominent noblemen

in Croatia in the 16 th century, a great hero in battles against the Ottoman Turks, but also participated in defeating the Peasant Revolt in 1573. However, he still had time for a turbulent love life, and was married four times. Even museum exhibits found in this fascinating castle have their own legends, like the one of a two-tailed mermaid, fairy Melusine and her star-crossed love affair with the knight Raymond. Museums of the Croatian Zagorje today carry out archaeological research at Kaπtel in Donja Stubica, which was, in addition to Susedgrad, a fortress owned by the powerful Franjo Tahy. The conflict between the Henning family, owners of the Susedgrad-Stubica estate, and the new owner Franjo Tahy was also full of intrigue. The tyrant Tahy, who dealt cruelly with peasant rebels, has his own legend regarding his tombstone in the church at Donja Stubica. Allegedly, the tombstone was constantly moist, and the custom has it that this phenomenon was Tahy sweating for his atrocities in his grave. Tales and stories conceived in medieval castles later got new versions, related to Baroque country manors in authentic locations, and have entered the history of Zagorje castles. The history of the OrπiÊ family, which took possession of the castle in Gornja Stubica due to the murder of Baroness KegleviÊ, brought

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fight for his rights. The charismatic personality of Matija Gubec inspired many artists, and even today, according to public opinion polls, is considered the most popular person in Croatian history. An impressive monument in Gornja Stubica immortalized the revolt and its leader. A lime alley shapes a promenade running from the Museum of Peasant Revolts to Gubec’s Lime Tree, under which, according to legend, the captains of the uprising met. The village of Hiæakovec in Donja Stubica is famous for being the birthplace of Matija Gubec, whose real first name was probably Ambroz. Traditional estates are established in Hiæakovec, and an exhibition in a small wooden hut, called the Gubec House, is open for visitors; recently, the Gubec Lime Tree archive has been planted, and a graft with the certificate of origin can be obtained there. Peasant Revolt is also the name of the festival designed by the Museum of Peasant Revolts, which takes place every February, organized by knight associations, which stage battle scenes.

bad fate to many of its members. An actual historical event, related to the divorce of the beautiful and well-educated Maria Theresia von Wintershoffen and Antun OrπiÊ in 1700, was a real scandal, giving rise to many rumours that the furious husband accused his ex-wife of sorcery. Bernardin OrπiÊ died at the hands of his jealous mistress, and it was only because of Krsto OrπiÊ, a serene man, dedicated to his work and his family, that the love tragedies of the family finally came to an end. Another attractive aristocrat was Sigismund Vojkfy, who was probably the model for the character of Siniπa in the famous novel, The Witch of GriË by Marija JuriÊ Zagorka. Following the Trail of Gubec’s Rebels The Great Peasant Revolt or the Men’s Rebellion is one of the most significant events in the Croatian history of the 16th century. The struggle for ancients rights was initially very successful and within a couple of days spread to a major part of the Croatian Zagorje, south-eastern parts of Lower Styria and part of Lower Carniola, as well as areas south of the Sava River, to OkiÊ and Jastrebarsko. It spread to a dozen estates and lasted only twelve days. The final battle took place in the Stubica field, on the 9th of February, 1573. The revolt remains a symbol of the attempt of the common man to keep his human dignity and 70

Traditional Crafts and Skills The Croatian Zagorje has always been a place of meetings and inﬂuence. Many foreign master craftsmen have come here, while local ones went to other countries for further training. The symbiosis of new trends and local traditions can be seen in the multi-layered, artistic and traditional crafts; proof of this are the valuable creations documenting the master craftsmen of different trades in almost all industries and activities of the community. If we read the list of crafts practiced in the past in the Krapina-Zagorje County, it is clear that many of them are lost forever. The surviving ones are today becoming valuable intangible heritage of the Croatian Zagorje, of Croatia, but also of the entire world. We are particularly proud of the two phenomena included in UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity: wooden toys and licitar, decorated gingerbread, both of which exemplify the traditional craft of the Zagorje region. The honey-selling and candle-making trade has existed in north-western Croatia, that is, the Croatian Zagorje, for several centuries, with licitar almost becoming a trademark of the shrine in Marija Bistrica. During church festivals, the town becomes alive with multi-colored stands decorated with picturesque licitar products and traditional toys. The greatest concentration of honey-sellers and candle-makers in Croatia can be found in Marija Bistrica. One of the most picturesque shops in the main square is the one owned by the Mahmet

family. The oldest shop, Zozzoly-Hubicki, is also in the main square, and the BrleËiÊ shop, in addition to selling products, allows visitors to see its collection dedicated to this trade. Church festival visitors can refresh themselves with the traditional drink of mead or honey liqueur. These are mostly consumed during summer. They are poured from barrels and are always served on ice. Delicious gingerbread is sure to please everyone. In the Croatian Zagorje, wooden toys and children’s flutes have been made for almost two centuries. StubiËki Laz and BistriËki Laz are the villages most famous for this tradition. In Tugonica and TurniπÊe, traditional children’s musical instruments ∑ the tamburica and guitar ∑ are produced. Folk flutes, popularly called æveglica, are today produced by only a few craftsmen in Laz. They are made of willow or maple wood, and are recognizable by their bright yellow colour, although they are more and more often painted with colours characteristic of other toys, and decorated with different floral or geometrical ornaments. Toys in the shape of traditional furniture include tables, chairs, cupboards, closets, beds and cradles. Furniture is usually painted bright blue or red, and decorated with stylized floral motifs. Children love all toys which spin or turn, like movable wagons or dancing dolls called tanceri; they also like moving toys like butterflies and rattles which are pushed on a stick, producing a loud sound ∑ to the dismay of most adults. Black horses on wheels, with white and red ornaments and decorated with manes of fur are also a children favourite. The toys are made by men, and always painted by women. They are unique products and are sold at church festivals, Sunday fairs, and at Zagreb’s main market place Dolac. Craftsmen today often travel to remote regions, more and more often to tourist towns, along the coast. One of the oldest crafts in the region of the Croatian Zagorje has been the blacksmith trade. Like many others, this trade was family-based, and passed on from father to son, as evidenced today by the blacksmith family Miπak in Sv. Kriæ ZaËretje. A wealth of traditional crafts and artistic items created in craftsmen workshops is difficult to summarize in a single chapter, but it must be emphasized that Zagorje has a great deal of human capital invested in its traditions, which are a significant driver for regional development. Zagorje, as a fairytale in your hand, cannot be imagined without the diligent hands of craftsmen, who have been adding a human dimension to the beauty of nature for centuries. ■

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■ ZAGREB ZAGREB

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Kula LotrπËak jedna od najznaËajnijih turistiËkih atrakcija grada Zagreba, potjeËe iz davnog 13. st. U proπlosti Ëuvala je juæni ulaz u Gornji grad od najezdi osvajaËa, a danas se upravo s njezina vrha pruæa najljepπi pogled na panoramu Zagreba. The LotrπËak Tower, one of the most important tourist attractions in the City of Zagreb, was built back in the 13th century. In the past, it protected the southern entrance to the Upper Town when it was under an invader’s attack, and today, it offers the most beautiful panoramic views of Zagreb.

Piše/By Anelka MustapiÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

elja povijesnih naËelnika od Zagrebgrada, osobito s kraja 19. st., kad je proradila UspinjaËa koja povezuje Donji i Gornji grad, bila je da prostor ispred izlaza iz UspinjaËe, odnosno juænog ulaza u Gornji grad, s prekrasnim platoom, odakle puca pogled na jednu od najdojmljivijih vizura Zagreba, i dugom πetnicom nazvanom po imenu velikoga hrvatskog biskupa i mecene Josipa Jurja Strossmayera, bude atrakcijska toËka na turistiËkoj karti Europe. Tijekom vremena to je i postignuto, Ëemu je uvelike pridonijela i kula LotrπËak, udaljena ni dvadesetak koraka od UspinjaËe, koja se danas, s dva vagona i kapacitetom od 56 putnika, u javnom prijevozu smatra najkraÊom æiËanom æeljeznicom na svijetu. Kula LotrπËak dio je srednjovjekovnoga fortifikacijskog sustava starog dijela Zagreba, koji je imao petero ili πestero vrata s Ëetverokutnim tornjevima. KljuËeve vrata kroz koja se ulazilo u Gradec ili GriË, stari, srednjovjekovni grad, iz kojega je, zajedno

s Kaptolom, izrastao danaπnji Zagreb, dræali su neki od obliænjih stanovnika. SaËuvana su jedino Kamenita vrata sa svetiπtem Majke Boæje te, osim kule LotrπËak, joπ i Popov toranj. Kula LotrπËak imala je takoer svoja vrata, Dverce, po kojima se nekoÊ zvala Kula od Dverca, ili, popularno, u narodu, poljska vrata. Ali prigodom obnove kule 1812. godine sruπena su, kako bi se mogla urediti juæna promenada, poslije nazvana Strossmayerovo πetaliπte. Vidikovac na kuli novijega je datuma i s njega se zahvaÊa panorama od Donjega grada sve do Mirogoja, zagrebaËkoga groblja koje je sagradio poznati europski arhitekt, veliki zagovornik historicizma Hermann Bollé, pa sve do obronaka Medvednice. O srednjovjekovnoj kuli LotrπËak vrlo je malo podataka iz kojih se ne moæe predoËiti njezin izvorni izgled. Kao objekt, vezana je uz nekoliko legendi. Najstarija potjeËe iz vremena kralja Bele IV. koji je 1242. Zlatnom bulom proglasio Zagreb slobodnim i kraljevskim CROATIA AIRLINES

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www.a bis-croa tia .com gradom na brdu Gradecu. Otad pa do 1266. grad je utvren bedemima i tornjevima, zbog najezde Tatara, a poslije, u 16. st., kad su Osmanlije doπle pred Zagreb, ta se gradska obrana pokazala joπ uËinkovitijom. Od 17. stoljeÊa kula se zvala LotrπËak, zato πto je u njoj 1646. bilo smjeπteno zvono, campana latrunculorum (zvono lopova, starozagrebaËki lotrijaπa, po kojima je kula na posljetku i dobila danaπnje ime). Zvono je na veËer, prije zatvaranja gradskih vrata, zvonilo Ëetvrt sata, upozoravajuÊi tako sve one koji su se naπli izvan zidina da se πto prije vrate kuÊi. Dosjetljivi narod ili narod sklon humoru, ali i sprdnji, dao je kuli joπ jedno ime, prozvavπi je kokoπinjcem, i to 1857., kad je na njoj sagraen toranj. O vaænosti LotrπËaka u obrani grada stvorene su dvije vrlo zanimljive legende, iako je sve moguÊe. Naime, prema prvoj verziji, kralj Bela IV. darovao je Gradecu, tj. GriËu, top, uz uvjet da se iz njega puca redovito, svaki dan, kako ne bi zahrao. Druga je verzija da su se u 16. st. Osmanlije utaborili na drugoj strani Save namjeravajuÊi napasti Zagreb. Kad je iz kule LotrπËak puknuo top toËno u podne, tane je pogodilo pijetla (ili purana), kojega je kuhar upravo nosio na pladnju paπi za objed, πto je uplaπilo Osmanlije i natjeralo ih u bi74

jeg. Taj uspjeh, navodno, povod je tradicije griËkog topa koji i danas, redovito u podne, puca i tako oglaπava 12 sati. Posljednja priËa ima smisla, a i povijesno utemeljenje, doznajemo od Danijele MarkoviÊ, kustosice Galerije KloviÊevi dvori: − GriËki top kupila je gradska vlast u 19.st. i smjestila ga u kulu LotrπËak da iz nje pukne svaki dan, toËno u 12 sati, kako bi se prema tom oglaπavanju ravnali zvonari zagrebaËkih crkava. Top je prvi put puknuo na Novu godinu 1877. i sluæio je namjeni sve do Prvoga svjetskog rata, kad je bio zabranjen. Proradio je ponovno 1927. godine s jednog prozora na Ëetvrtom katu kule i otad, neprekidno, svaki dan zaredom oglaπava podne, toËno kao πvicarski sat, pa je prema svojemu staæu postao najstariji zagrebaËki javni sat. ©to se tiËe gradnje kule LotrπËak, a prema sudu povjesniËara, na temelju njezina Ëetvorinastog tlocrta i strukture zidova (nepravilni kamen i mijeπana opeka), ona pripada romaniËkom stilu fortiﬁkacijske gradnje, kao πto su graeni i ostali saËuvani dijelovi gradskih utvrda. Debljina je njezinih zidova oko 195 cm, πto je bio standard uobiËajen i za ostale tornjeve. S kroviπtem i kupolom visoka je 30 metara. Velikom adaptacijom u 19 st. na zanimljiv naËin rijeπeno je pitanje tzv.

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komunikacije meu katovima: na sjevernoj strani kule dograeno je zavojno stubiπte, koje je jednom polovicom na dvoriπnoj strani a drugom izvan zgrade. Od 17. st., kao i ostale kule, gradske su vlasti kulu LotrπËak davale u zakup, s tim πto se o njoj morao skrbiti onaj tko ju je iznajmio za skladiπte razliËitih roba, vina i sl. Ali nikad je nisu prodale, premda je nedostatak novca za njezino odræavanje bio glavni razlog iznajmljivanja. Od sredine devedesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa kula LotrπËak u sustavu je Galerije KloviÊevi dvori. U njezinoj suvenirnici otvorenoj u jedinstvenom ambijentu u prizemlju, u koje je izvrsno uklopljen infocentar TuristiËke zajednice grada Zagreba, u ponudi su umjetniËka djela, monografije, unikatni nakit kao i ostali suveniri tradicionalnoga zagrebaËkoga umjetniËkog obrta. n he wish of many former mayors of the City of Zagreb, particularly at the end of the 19th century, when the Funicular railway connecting the Lower and Upper Town was put into operation, was that the area in front of the exit from the Funicular railway, i.e. the southern entrance to the Upper Town, with its beautiful plateau boasting impressive views of the city and a lengthy promenade named after the great Croatian bishop and benefactor Josip Juraj Strossmayer, would become a main tourist attraction in Europe. In time, this was eventually accomplished, and the LotrπËak Tower, some twenty steps away, contributed significantly to the end result. The funicular railway, with its two cars and carrying capacity of 56 passengers, is considered the shortest cable railway in the world. The LotrπËak Tower is part of a medieval fortification system in the old part of Zagreb, which had five or six gates with rectangular towers. The keys to the gates provided entrance to Gradec or GriË, the old medieval town and were kept by some of the citizens living in the neighbourhood; it was this town, together with Kaptol that led to the development of the City of Zagreb. The Stone Gate with its shrine of the Virgin Mary has been preserved since medieval times, along with the Priest’s Tower (Popov toranj) and the LotrπËak Tower. The LotrπËak Tower had its own gate, Dverce, and was once called the Tower of Dverce, or popularly, the field gate. However, when the tower was reconstructed in 1812, the gate was demolished in order to create the southern promenade, later named the Strossmayer Promenade. The observation deck on the tower is more recent, allowing visitors to take in the view

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of the Lower Town all the way to Mirogoj, Zagrebâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cemetery designed by the famous European architect, and great advocate of historicism, Hermann BollĂŠ, and to the slopes of the Medvednica Mountain. Information on the medieval LotrĎ&#x20AC;Ă&#x2039;ak Tower is scarce and insufďŹ cient to reconstruct its original appearance. There are several legends related to this structure. The oldest one originated in the period of King Bela IVâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rule; it was his Golden Charter of 1242 that gave Zagreb the status of being a free and royal city on the hill of Gradec. Since that year until 1266, the city was fortiďŹ ed with walls and towers to defend the city from Tatar invasion, and later, in the 16th century, from the Ottoman Turks. It was when the Turks came to Zagreb that the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s defense proved most effective. In the 17th century, the tower got the name LotrĎ&#x20AC;Ă&#x2039;ak, because in 1646, it housed a bell called campana latrunculorum (bell of thieves, lotrijaĎ&#x20AC; in the old Zagreb dialect, after which the tower ultimately got its present name). At night, before closing the city gate, the bell rang for a quarter of an hour, calling everyone who was outside the city walls to come home as soon as possible. Witty locals with a good sense of humour bestowed another name on the tower, call78

10 years of excellence

ing it the fowl house in 1857, when the mast was added to it. Although anything is possible, there are two intriguing legends which were created regarding LotrĎ&#x20AC;Ă&#x2039;akâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s importance in city defense. According to the ďŹ rst version, King Bela gave a cannon to Gradec, i.e. GriĂ&#x2039;, on the condition that it be ďŹ red, regularly, every day, to prevent it from rusting. The second version says that in the 16 th century, the Ottoman Turks were encamping on the other side of the Sava River, intending to attack Zagreb. The cannon in the LotrĎ&#x20AC;Ă&#x2039;ak Tower was ďŹ red at noon; the cannonball hit a rooster (or turkey) which the cook was carrying on a platter for pasha as lunch, and this frightened the Ottomans and made them ďŹ&#x201A;ee. This success allegedly started the tradition of ďŹ ring the GriĂ&#x2039; cannon every day at noon, marking that occasion. The latter story makes more sense and is corroborated by historical records, as Danijela MarkoviĂ&#x160;, the curator of the KloviĂ&#x160;evi dvori gallery tells us: â&#x2C6;&#x2019; The cannon of GriĂ&#x2039; was bought by city authorities in the 19 th century and placed in the LotrĎ&#x20AC;Ă&#x2039;ak Tower, intending it to be ďŹ red every day at 12 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock sharp, so that bellringers in Zagreb churches would know the correct time. The cannon was ďŹ rst ďŹ red on

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New Year’s Day of 1877, and served its purpose until World War I when it was banned. It was put back in operation in 1927, and the cannon has been fired from a window on the tower’s fourth floor since then every day without fail, announcing noon as precisely as a Swiss watch, which in fact makes it Zagreb’s oldest public clock. As for the construction of the LotrπËak Tower, most historians believe because of its rectangular floor-plan and wall structure (irregular stones and mixed brick) that it belongs to the Romanesque fortification building style, like the other preserved parts of city fortifications. Its walls are about 195 cm thick, which was the standard for towers then. With its roof and dome, it is 30 m tall. An extensive 19th century remodel offered an interesting solution to the communication problem between floors: the northern side of the tower was outfitted with a spiral staircase, half of which was in the courtyard, and half outside the building. Like the other towers, city authorities have leased the LotrπËak Tower since the 17th century, requiring that the occupant take responsibility for it in the storage of different goods, wine etc. It has never been sold even though the principal reason for leasing it was a lack of money for maintenance. Since the mid-1990s, the LotrπËak Tower has been under the auspices of the KloviÊevi Dvori Gallery. Its souvenir shop is situated in a unique setting on the ground floor, where the information centre of the Zagreb Tourist Board can be found. It offers works of art, monographs, unique jewellery, as well as other traditional souvenirs and crafts. n

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■ TRADICIJA TRADITION

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ava mora biti crna kao vrag, vruÊa kao pakao, Ëista kao aneo i slatka kao ljubav, tvrdio je Talleyrand, poznati francuski diplomat i politiËar. Vrag, pakao, aneo i ljubav u istoj reËenici bivπeg sveÊenika, πtoviπe, biskupa koji je tek trebao postati politiËarem i revolucionarom, upozoravaju nas da su moæda te ne tako suptilne osobne i profesionalne tranzicije svoje nadahnuÊe crpile iz magiËnoga crnoga napitka. Stari su zapisi govorili o kavi kao simbolu gostoljubivosti arapskog naroda, a zapisano je i da ispijanje toga crnog zlata muslimane razbuuje tijekom njihovih noÊnih molitvi, πtoviπe, osigurava im uznesenje i prije nego što uu u raj. Bilo je to dovoljno da kava u Europi postane sumnjiva i da neki talijanski kardinal u 16. stoljeÊu zatraæi zabranu arapskog napitka koji, mislio je, nameÊe osobno sam neËastivi. Ali, papa Klement VIII., veliki poklonik kave, odbio je zahtjev tvrdeÊi kako je veÊ i miris kave predobar da bi mogao biti djelo Zla te kako bi bila πteta da u njoj uæivaju samo muslimani. Kako god, kava se poËela piti mnogo kasnije od otkriÊa onoga abesinijskog pastira Ëije su koze bile æivahnije nakon zobanja bobica s jednoga odreenoga grma - kave. Negdje do desetog stoljeÊa kava se jela. Etiopska su nomadska plemena na dugim putovanjima odræavale kuglice od kavenih bobica i masnoÊe. Balzac u svom Traktatu o kavi otkriva svoju straπnu i okrutnu metodu koju savjetuje samo muπkarcima iznimne snage i jake crne kose. RijeË je o hladnoj kavi ispijenoj nataπte. Kava pada u vaπ æeludac, pravu barπunastu vreÊu iznutra, tapeciranu sisaljkama i pupoljcima, ne nalazi ondje niπta, pa napada tu delikatnu i raskoπnu podstavu, zavrÊe je i svija, zazivlje njezine sokove kao πto proroËica priziva svoje boæanstvo, zlostavlja te lijepe stijenke kao πto koËijaπ muËi mlade konje; pleksusi se raspaljuju i plamte πaljuÊi iskre sve do mozga. A odavde, sve se potiËe − ideje se pokreÊu poput bataljuna velike armije na bojnome polju i bitka poËinje. S udarnim valom naviru sjeÊanja, diæu se stjegovi, u veliËanstvenom se galopu razvija laka konjica usporedbi; svojim oklopima i nabijenim Ëahurama priskaËe artiljerija logike; sa strijelcima pristiæu dosjetke, ﬁgure se uspravljaju, a papir pokriva tintom jer poËinje bdijenje koje zavrπava bujicama crne vode, kao πto bitke zavrπavaju crnim prahom. To iskustvo iz prve ruke govori o savezniπtvu s kavom pisca koji se budio u ponoÊ da bi pisao do jutra. Ona bi ga u dugim noÊima, uza svjetlo uljene svjetiljke, dræala budnim i svjeæeg duha i tako mjesec, dva, tridesetak πalica na noÊ, dok ne bi dovrπio djelo. Pojavio bi se tada u kazaliπtu ili u nekom uredniπtvu, sjajnih oËiju,

Piše/By Dubravka Belas Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

Nisu agresivne u svojoj nametnutosti poput πkole ili posla, nisu zahtjevne poput doma i obitelji, niti obvezujuÊe i protokolarne poput teatra. Za njih ne trebate pratnju, jer uvijek ste u druπtvu, Ëak i onda kad za drugim stolovima nikoga ne poznajete. Tu ste nekako manje sami i kad ste posve sami. Kavane. Odmoriπta izmeu svjetova. They do not impose themselves aggressively upon us like school or work, they are not demanding like home and family, nor are they binding or big on protocol, such as the theatre. You do not need to go with an escort, because you always have company there, even when there is nobody you know at any of the other tables. Here you are somehow less alone even when you are completely alone. Cafés. Rest areas between the worlds. CROATIA AIRLINES

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podsjeÊajuÊi na vesela vepra ili uvijek vezana psa tek otrgnuta s lanca. Joπ veÊi potroπaË kave bez sumnje bijaπe Voltaire, za kojega tvrde da je upravo na kavi i na πezdesetak πalica, koje bi popio na dan, njegov pogled na svijet temeljio nadaleko poznatu jasnoÊu. No nije samo piscima kava bila vjerni drug i potpora u usamljenim satima stvaranja. Bach je, tvrdeÊi da mu je draæa od tisuÊu poljubaca i slaa od muπkatnog vina, skladao Kantatu o kavi, a za Beethovena se govorilo da neobiËan sjaj u njegovim oËima dolazi baπ od napitka za koji bi pedantno brojio πezdeset zrna po πalici. Rossini je nije uæivao svaki dan jer smatrao je da njezin uËinak traje dvadesetak dana, dovoljno za pisanje jedne opere. Verdi ju je nazivao melemom za srce i duπu, a Serge Gainsbourg u pjesmi Boja kave voli svoju ljubavnicu jer kosa joj je boje kave, a njezini ga bokovi uzbuuju poput − kave. Luj XV. toliko je volio kavu da je u Versaillesu dao sagraditi staklenike kako bi uæivao u napitku spravljenom od domaÊe, francuske kave. Njegovo bi veliËanstvo s neskrivenim ponosom osobno præilo sirovo zrnje i pripremalo vruÊi napitak svojim kurtizanama. Napoleon Bonaparte zapisao je u dnevniku da uvijek ima po sedam kafetijera na peÊi. Uæivao je, tvrdi, u nelagodi koju mu je izazivala jaka kava. Kolika su samo platna prikazivala tu tajanstvenu tekuÊinu − Cezanne, Mannet, Matisse, Rousseau Carinik, Braque, Toulouse-Lautrec i joπ mnogi drugi. I dok su umjetnici aromu i okus kave rado uæivali u stvaralaËkoj samoÊi, drugi su imali malo drugaËije potrebe. Za kavane kaæu da su prava mjesta za one koji æele popiti kavu i biti sami, ali u druπtvu. Prve su otvorene u Meki pred sam poËetak cinquecenta, no imami su ih ubrzo stali zabranjivati, ne samo zbog straha da bi okupljanja mogla biti nepoæeljno politiËki obojena, nego i zbog toga πto su dæamije opustjele, a kavane se punile. Ali kava se viπe nije mogla zaustaviti, slijedio je Damask, Kairo, zatim Europa. Ovdje su prve πkole mudrosti, πto doslovno znaËi njihov izvorni naziv qahveh khaneh, kavahan, otvorene u Carigradu, prije gotovo pet stotina godina. Ondje se uæivalo u glazbi, igralo πah, raspravljalo o politici, literaturi, æivotu… Prirodno je slijedila Serenissima, gdje se ionako i te kako dobro znalo uæivati u slatkome slobodnom vremenu, Ëemu je kava bila dobrodoπao zaËin. Nakon poraza pod BeËom, Turci su, spaπavajuÊi glave, za sobom ostavili neËuvena bogatstva − πatore, ovce, deve… I mnogo vreÊa sirovih kavenih zrna. U slavu pobjede, beËki su pekari kreirali pecivo od lisnatog tijesta u obliku polumjeseca s turske zastave, poznati croissant, tako 82

prikladan pratitelj kave, Ëudesnoga arapskog vina. Zbog ratna plijena, vreÊa punih zrnja od kojega se nije mogao praviti kruh, Kulczycki, jedan od poljskih heroja bitke kod BeËa, otvorio je prvu pravu beËku kavanu. Dodavπi gorkoj tekuÊini mlijeko i med, smijeπao je i prvu varijantu kapuËina, koju Êe poslije kapucini ukrasiti kapuljaËom od mlijeËne pjene. Poslije toga, viπe nije bilo prepreke − kava se razlila Ëitavom Europom. ©aptom je pala Francuska, NjemaËka, Italija, Engleska. No, nije sve uvijek iπlo glatko. U jednom trenutku u NjemaËkoj kralj Frederick zabranio je kavu sumnjajuÊi da vojnici koji je piju ne mogu biti pouzdani, pa je formirao specijalne jedinice poznate kao Kaffee Schnufﬂers, koje su, njuπkajuÊi ulicama, traæile ilegalne præionice. Prohibicija je bila na snazi samo kratko − dok i kralj nije podlegao Ëarima kave. U Engleskoj su se trgovci pivom i vinom uvelike raæestili kad su shvatili da kava postaje popularnijom od tih piÊa pa su æestokom kampanjom od kralja Karla II. iznudili njezinu zabranu. No javnost je ipak uskoro uspjela opozvati naredbu. Æensku peticiju protiv kave potpisala je grupa londonskih supruga ogorËenih πto su njihovi muæevi u kavanama provodili viπe vremena nego kod kuÊe. Treba li reÊi da je ulaz u kavane bio zabranjen æenama, osim onima koje su je kuhale. Ona navodi muπkarce da dangube, opeku si usta i spiskaju novac, sve zbog malo obiËne, crne, guste, gorke i do muËnine smradne blatne vode, pisalo je u peticiji. Nije sluËajno πto je prvu kavanu Turska glava u Londonu otvorio DubrovËanin Pasqua Rosee, kojeg je onamo kao slugu odveo njegov turski gospodar. Kava se, naime, na ovim prostorima, kao jedna od boljih popratnica turskih osvajanja, uæivala mnogo dulje. Po kuÊama se uglavnom pripravljala tzv. turska kava, kratko prokuhana u okruglim bakrenim ili mjedenim dæezvama, i posluæivala u minijaturnim πalicama − ﬁldæanima, uz kocke πeÊera ili lomljene ploËice peÊena πeÊera, nalik na mljeËni karamel, koji bi se stavljao na jezik i preko kojega se zatim srkala jaka i vruÊa kava. Katkad, za goste, i uz rahat-lokum, istoËnjaËku poslasticu sliËnu æeleu. Poslije turske kave na dnu bi ostajao talog, πalica bi se okrenula naopako na tanjuriÊ i ocijedila, a iz πara koje bi na talogu nastale zatim se, s manje ili viπe uspjeha, ozbiljnosti ili humora, proricala buduÊnost onoga tko je πalicu kave popio. Javno toËenje kave u Zagrebu poËinje tek u 18. stoljeÊu, i to najprije pod boltama Harmice i πatorima na njezinu zapadnom dijelu. Platneni su πatori ostali i kad su se na Ëitavoj juænoj strani sagradile prave kavane. Ispod njih, s ukrasima od cvijeÊa i zelenila, bilo je ugodno boraviti u toplim godiπnjim dobima i za najveÊih

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Fly to Dubrovnik

tel: +385 20 773 333, fax: +385 20 773 322 e-mail: info@airport-dubrovnik.hr, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr

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guævi promatrati vrevu i æivopisne noπnje seljaka koji su donosili robu na sajam. Gotovo da nitko ne bi povjerovao kako je joπ nedavno ovdje bilo odlagaliπte otpada i moËvara u kojoj su purgeri hvatali divlje patke. StoljeÊe poslije od prvog kavotoËja, svih devet kavana na glavnome trgu svojim je izgledom, udobnoπÊu i ponudom bilo ravnopravno poznatim beËkim i berlinskim kavanama. Novosti su se saznavale u kavani, ondje se bistrila politika, Ëitale, ali i pisale novine. Osobito Ëitale − treba podsjetiti da je u poËetku 20. stoljeÊa u Zagrebu izlazilo stotinjak tiskovina i nerijetko su se kavane propagirale upravo brojem novina koje su imale u ponudi, na hrvatskome ali i na viπe stranih jezika. Grand caffe na mjestu danaπnje kavane Dubrovnik, metropolitanskih dimenzija, sluæio je i kao svojevrsna burza − ovdje, neposredno uza sajam, odvijale su se prave burzovne transakcije. Iako je sve poËelo od kave, kavane su je prerasle. Oduvijek okvirom za druæenje i razmjenu − pogleda, misli, ideja − intimnih, kurtoaznih, umjetniËkih, politiËkih, za verbalne obraËune s neistomiπljenicima i kritiËarima, za rasprave, pa i svae. U njima su se stoljeÊima kovale zavjere, od ljubavniËkih do revolucionarnih. Gotovo se oËekivano, s britanskim πpijunima na svakom uglu, pobuna protiv engleskoga kralja, koja je poslije prerasla u AmeriËku revoluciju, zaËela baπ u nekoj bostonskoj kavani. 84

Pozivom siromaπnog odvjetnika koji je u æaru skoËio na stol pariπke kavane, zapaljena je iskra Francuske revolucije. A Florian, slavna i jedna od najskupljih venecijanskih kavana, bila je uporiπte i stoæer risorgimenta, dok su se u njezinim mirisnim, elegantnim salonima skrivali i njegovali ranjenici. U kavani Lorenzi u Madridu skovan je πpanjolski ustanak, u Pilvaxu u Budimpeπti − maarska revolucija. Jedna od buna izbila je i u Pruskoj, no njoj je uzrok bila kava sama, odnosno, to πto je uæivanje kave bilo ograniËeno na plemstvo, sveÊenstvo i visoke duænosnike. Revolucionarna πezdeset osma proπlog stoljeÊa, za povijest modernog svijeta vaæan, formativni dogaaj, potkrijepljena je u SAD-u raanjem protestne glazbe. Nije sluËajno πto su njezini predvodnici, Bob Dylan i Joan Baez, junaci kontrakulture u Ëijim su se tekstovima prepletale antiratne poruke i borba za ljudska prava, svoje karijere poËeli u − kavanama. ZagrebaËke kavane danas deﬁnitivno viπe nisu πto su nekad bile, ako pod tim imenom razumijevate iskljuËivo kavane iz toga zlatnog doba, s visokim stropovima i galerijama, secesijskim lusterima, Thonetovim stolcima, novinskim dræaËima od svijenog pruÊa, svim tim predratnim inventarom, ﬁnim porculanskim servisima i konobarima u livrejama, kakvi su postojali joπ i socijalistiËkim pedesetima, kad su stare kavane joπ imale status kulturnoga

dobra i briæno se Ëuvalo njihovo naslijee. Nekad je strateπki poloæaj na svakom raskriæju Ilice s donjogradskim vertikalama, sve do IliËkog placa, zauzimala po jedna raskoπna kavana. Na æalost, na uglu s GunduliÊevom viπe nema secesijskog Corsa, najljepπe i najotmjenije gradske kavane, s velebnim bruπenim zrcalima, koænim naslonjaËima, pa Ëak i prvim okretnim vratima u Zagrebu. Corso je bio dovoljno prostran da bude sastajaliπtem umjetnika, pisaca, slikara, novinara, cjelokupne umjetniËke, kulturne, intelektualne kreme, ali i gimnazijalaca i studenata koji bi znali prokrijumËariti kapute pokraj garderobijerke kako bi uπtedjeli za joπ jednu kavu. Corso je bio jedna od postaja najveÊih hrvatskih knjiæevnih boema, Matoπa i UjeviÊa, koji su gotovo stalno obitavali u kavanama zlatnoga trokuta − krstareÊi izmeu Kazaliπne, kavane Bauer i Corsa, radije nego da borave u oskudici i samoÊi svojih skromnih, najËeπÊe hladnih sobica. Pohaala su je i ondje uz melanæ i kroasane raspravljala dva posljednja velika barda hrvatske knjiæevnosti, Krleæa i MarinkoviÊ, svakako ne i jedini koji su ondje imali svoje stalne stolove. Odavno veÊ nema kavane Bauer na uglu Ilice i Frankopanske, purgerske sikstinske kapele, nazvane tako zbog svojih oslikanih zidova, nema obaveznih bilijarskih stolova, ni plemenitog dima ﬁnoga duhana. Nema viπe ni MeduliÊa, na vrhu istoimene ulice, nedaleko od Likovne akademije - nesluæbenog sjediπta i sastajaliπta generacija hrvatskih likovnih umjetnika, profesora i njihovih studenata. Jedan se svijet nepovratno izgubio, ali kavane su ostale. Ne viπe onakve kakve bismo moæda, u napadima nostalgije, voljeli zadræati. DrugaËije su, naravno, usklaene s novim vremenom, ali zbog toga ne i manje ugodne. Preureena Gradska kavana uspjela je zadræati dio svoje klijentele, Kazaliπna je kavana, potpuno izmijenjena lica, izgubila, doduπe, svoj nekadaπnji boemski πtih, ali zato je dobila svoju zlatnu mladeæ. Preureena je i Palainovka, najstarija gornjogradska kavana koja joπ radi. Otvorena je 1837. godine, uz neke osobite izvorne crte svog interijera, a osobito je rado posjeÊuju od proljeÊa do jeseni zbog ugodne sjene stoljetnih stabala pod kojima su vani postavljeni stolovi, spajajuÊi se neopazice s Vrazovim πetaliπtem. Ostavπi bez najveÊeg dijela klasiËnih kavana, Zagreb je svejedno postojano i æilavo πirio svoju ponudu caféa, manjih, ali niπta manje ugodnih mjesta na kojima se moæe druæiti, popiti kavu, proËitati novine, provjeriti svoj mail ili dodati status na Facebooku. Neki su od njih izrazito specijalizirali svoju ponudu i povezali je s drugom djelatnoπÊu. Tako je u istoj ulici u kojoj je zatvoren velebni

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MeduliÊ, u sklopu knjiæare za graditeljstvo, dizajn, umjetnost i fotograﬁju otvoren café Kôta, pod motom: arhitektura s okusom kave. Uz svoje omiljeno piÊe ovdje moæete prelistati najnovije struËne publikacije s podruËja arhitekture, a naveËer su Ëesta glazbena dogaanja. U ulici kojom se iz tuπkanaËke πume i s Rokova perivoja u nekoliko koraka spuπta do previruÊe Ilice, u mirnoj Deæmanovoj, jednoj od cjevËica kojom se svjeæina i Ëisti sljemenski kisik dovodi do grada, smjeπtena su dva nezaobilazna kavena toponima. Jedan je kultno sastajaliπte Velvet, ponovno otvoreno u tri slijeda − café bistroovskog tipa, kavana s umjetniËkom galerijom i terasa ugodno smjeπtena u hladu Aleksandrovih stuba. Ako ste u druπtvu, uæivat Êete u opuπtenoj i prijateljskoj atmosferi. Ako ste sami, a dosadilo vam je gledati u prolaznike, moæete prelistati neki od raznorodnih tematskih Ëasopisa koji su ondje na raspolaganju. Vlasnik, slikar s nepogreπivim osjeÊajem za cvijeÊe, osigurat Êe posve netipiËan repertoar u æardinjerama na terasi, koji Ëesto mijenja − jednom Êe ukras biti veliki bijeli kukurijeci, drugi put opojne urice, jednom je to otmjeni crveni naprstak, a usred terase dopremljene su i mlade breze prozraËnih kroπnji. Nekoliko metara dalje niz ulicu naiÊi Êete na Institut Parfumeur Flores, koji uz parfeme po mjeri nudi neuobiËajen prostor u unutraπnjosti, s dugim, obiteljskim stolom i veoma udobnu terasu izvan lokala. Uz izvrstan izbor Ëajeva, ovdje Êete popiti jedan od ponajboljih zagrebaËkih espressa. Gornjogradska café galerija Lav smjestila se u nekoliko graanskih salona tik do Kamenitih vrata. Osobitost joj je πto u gotovo kuÊnoj atmosferi, zavaljeni u udobne kanapee i naslonjaËe, moæete u savrπenom miru, bez buke, i satima Ëavrljati, kao da ste u svome dnevnom boravku. Dakako, i pritom razgledati izloæene radove suvremenih hrvatskih likovnih umjetnika. U Petrovoj se ulici nalazi nezaobilazni Kim’s Coffee, s ljubavlju namjeπten prostor u kojem uz kavu posluæuju ukusne kolaËe. U MartiÊevoj se ulici, pak, nalazi lokal posve drukËiji od drugih. Uz vrhunski espresso ovdje Êete uæivati u posve luckasto dizajniranom prostoru. Stolovi umjesto nogu imaju lopate, a brojni detalji, optiËke varke, zrcala i laæna vrata zaokupit Êe vas toliko da biste mogli zaboraviti naruËiti svoj omiljeni napitak. Muzungu u Masarykovoj ulici komadiÊ je Afrike u Zagrebu, ureen posve u skladu s maπtovitoπÊu kojom se kava uæiva na svome rodnom kontinentu. Beduini je, na primjer, piju vrlo slatku s dodatkom umbira ili kardamoma. U Ugandi se zeleno zrnje mijeπa s razliËitim travama i zaËinima, zamata u paketiÊe od trave i vjeπa na zidove kao talisman ili ukras. Upravo iz Ugande pristiæe kava za prvi Fair Trade Coffee 88

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Shop Muzungu, u kojemu moæete uæivati u ritmovima i okusima toga oËaravajuÊeg kontinenta. Uz πalicu AfriËke kave moæe se razgledati izloæene afriËke artefakte, izmeu ostaloga, nakit od papira, narukvice Masai i maske Kongo, statue, namjeπtaj i nakit. Na glavnome trgu danas su ostale samo Ëetiri kavane − uz Gradsku, posljednju veliku kavanu, tu je kavana Dubrovnik pa Mala kavana i još neke sa svojim strateπki postavljenim terasama s kojih puca pogled na svaki kutak trga. Nedaleko od gornje postaje UspinjaËe, na Katarinskom trgu, Ëekat Êe vas Brokenships Café, sastavni dio Muzeja prekinutih veza. Nakon obilaska tog jedinstvenog muzeja, koji djeluje poput emocionalnog vrtuljka, navodeÊi vas na osmijeh i suze istodobno, svoje uzburkane osjeÊaje i misli moÊi Êete utiπati u muzejskome kafiÊu, uz vrhunsku kavu ili kuhano vino, popraÊene keksima od lavande ili paprenjacima, tradicijskim zagrebaËkim kolaËiÊem od meda i papra, meda za smijeh, papra za suze. S Gornjega se grada treba spustiti stubama koje vode do TkalËiÊeve, jedne od najæivljih zagrebaËkih ulica. Cijela je krivudava ulica, izrasla na koritu nekadaπnjeg potoka, pjeπaËka zona. U davna vremena poznata po crvenim fenjerima, oznakama bludiliπta kojima je, zbog duæeg radnog vremena, nelojalno konkurirala kavanama. Bludiliπta viπe nema, ali zato je ulica, koja æivi od ranog jutra do kasno u noÊ, prepuna malih kavanica πto se noÊu pretvaraju u klubove. Uz legendarnog Melina, jedna je od najugodnijih i najljepπe ureenih novootvoreni History. I Krivi put neka je nova vrsta kavane, kultnog underground kluba u kojem se okuplja drugaËija mladeæ od one πminkerske, pomalo povrπne i blazirane zagrebaËke mladeæi koju rado prati lokalni, jednako povrπni tisak. TisuÊe mladih posvojile su ovo okupljaliπte od alternativaca do dobrih studenata iz obliænjeg Studentskog centra, njihovih profesora, novinara, fotografa, grafitera, fiziËara. NajguπÊe su pak kavane naselile srediπte grada, na potezu od Trga bana JelaËiÊa do Cvjetnoga. Sve imaju svoje terase na ploËnicima, jedan od boljih francuskih izuma. Nastavljaju se gotovo u neprekidnom nizu, otvorena je i jedna u Preobraæenskoj, prva iz lanca Franckovih Supercaffea, koja takoer sjedinjuje tradicionalno i moderno. I tako izmijenjene i konceptualno izdiferencirane, kavane su ostale nuæni meuprostori, odmoriπta izmeu svjetova. Nisu agresivne u svojoj nametnutosti poput πkole ili posla, nisu zahtjevne poput doma i obitelji, niti obvezujuÊe i protokolarne poput teatra. Za njih ne trebate pratnju, jer uvijek ste u druπtvu, Ëak i onda kad

za drugim stolovima nikoga ne poznajete. Tu ste nekako manje sami i kad ste posve sami. Nekako samo jeste. Uete, potraæite prazan stol, moæda u kutu ili pokraj izloga, mjesto okupano suncem ili ono s dobrim pogledom na ulicu, na ulaz ili jednostavno preostali prostor. Sjednete, skupljate fragmente razgovora za susjednim stolom, koji vas zapravo ne zanimaju previπe, ili, joπ bolje, osluπkujete neraspoznatljiv, ali topao ljudski æamor koji dopire sa svih strana, viπeglasnu pjesmu umnoæenih razgovora. Promatrate lica koja vas okruæuju, lijepu æenu koja lista æurnal ËekajuÊi nekoga, veliko i veselo druπtvo koje se glasno smije uvijek istom kozeru, dvojicu suspektnih æbirova koji tiho zbore priklonjenih glava, druπtvo studenata koji se prepiru i satima sjede nad jednom kavom i pet Ëaπa vode. Da djevojka za stolom u kutu ne tipka sms na svome mobitelu, a njezin pratitelj ne pretraæuje mreæu svih mreæa na svom laptopu, mogli biste pomisliti da ste se vratili u neki bolji dio proπlog stoljeÊa. Sve je ostalo isto. Napokon, naruËite πto æelite − snaæni, karakterni espresso, opojna mirisa prave kave u kojemu treba polako uæivati, ureπen samo vlastitom pjenom gustom poput umuÊenog æumanjca, ili macchiato, ili pak capuccino s drhtavim pokrovom od zapjenjenog mlijeka, ili kavu sa πlagom u kojemu æliËice sa πeÊerom, u joπ jednome smirujuÊem ritualu mijeπanja, priguπeno odjekuju. Jaku ili slabu, vruÊu ili ohlaenu, s kuglama sladoleda od vanilije, u πalicama ili staklenim Ëaπama, sami ili u druπtvu, zavaljeni u udobnom stolcu, naslonjaËu ili soﬁ, u razgovoru, uz novine ili knjigu, novovjekim virtualnim okupljaliπtima unatoË. Dakako, to moæete samo u kavani, toj staroj navici, nasuπnoj potrebi, hemingwayevski Ëistome, dobro osvijetljenome mjestu… n

offee should be black as the devil, hot as hell, pure as an angel and sweet as love, claimed Talleyrand, the famous French diplomat and politician. The devil, hell, angels and love in the same sentence uttered by a former priest, moreover, a bishop who had yet to become a politician and revolutionary, suggest to us that maybe the not so subtle personal and professional transitions drew their inspiration from the magical black potion. Ancient records talked about coffee as a symbol of hospitality of the Arab nation, and it was noted that the drinking of that black gold kept the Muslims awake during their nightly prayers, and moreover, provided them rapture before they entered into heaven. It was enough to make coffee in Europe seem suspicious; an Italian cardinal in the 16th century sought a ban on the Arab drink, which, he thought, was imposed upon people by the devil himself. CROATIA AIRLINES

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However, Pope Clement VIII, a great admirer of coffee, turned down the cardinal’s application saying that even the smell of coffee was too good for it to be the work of evil, and that it would be a shame if only Muslims enjoyed it. Be that as it may, people started to drink coffee a lot later than the discovery by that Abyssinian shepherd whose goats were livelier after eating berries from one particular bush − coffee. Sometime up to the 10 th century coffee was eaten. On long trips, Ethiopian nomad tribes were sustained by balls of coffee berries and fat. In his Treatise on Modern Stimulants, Balzac reveals his horrible and rather brutal method that he recommends only to men of excessive vigour and thick black hair. It is a question of 90

using cold coffee consumed on an empty stomach. The coffee falls into your stomach, a sack whose velvety interior is lined with tapestries of suckers and papillae. The coffee finds nothing else in the sack, and so it attacks these delicate and voluptuous linings; it acts like a food and demands digestive juices; it wrings and twists the stomach for these juices, like a pythoness appealing to her god; it brutalizes these beautiful stomach linings as a wagon master abuses ponies; the plexus becomes inflamed; sparks shoot all the way up to the brain. From that moment on, everything becomes agitated. Ideas quick-march into motion like battalions of a grand army to its legendary fighting ground, and the battle rages. Memories charge in, bright flags on high; the cavalry of metaphor deploys with a magnificent gallop; the artillery of logic rushes up with clattering wagons and cartridges; on imagination’s orders, sharpshooters sight and fire; forms and shapes and characters rear up; the paper is spread with ink - for the nightly labour begins and ends with torrents of this black water, as a battle opens and concludes with black powder. This firsthand experience talks about the writer’s alliance with coffee which woke him up at midnight and he would write until morning. During the long nights, by the light of an oil lamp, the coffee would keep him awake and with a fresh spirit. This would last for a month or two, at thirty cups a night, until he completed his work. He would then appear at the theatre or in some editor’s office, with bright eyes, like a jolly boar or a dog that had been tied up and just broke his chain. Without a doubt, Voltaire was an even bigger consumer of coffee. It was said that his world view was based on the renowned clarity that he got from the sixty cups of coffee he drank each day. But it was not only writers who used coffee as a faithful companion and support in the lonely hours of creation. Bach, claiming that he preferred coffee to a thousand kisses and that it was sweeter than muscatel wine, composed the Coffee Cantata, while it was said that the strange glow in Beethoven’s eyes came from the beverage for which he meticulously counted sixty beans per cup. Rossini did not enjoy coffee every day because he considered that its effects lasted for twenty days or so, long enough to write an opera. Verdi called it a balm for the heart and soul, and in his song, Colour of Coffee, Serge Gainsbourg loves his mistress because her hair is the colour of coffee and her hips turn him on just like − coffee. Louis XV loved coffee so much that at Versailles he had greenhouses built so he could enjoy the beverage made from domestic,

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French coffee. With undisguised pride, his majesty would personally roast the raw grains and prepare the hot drink with his courtesans. Napoleon Bonaparte wrote in his diary that he always had seven coffee presses on the stove. He claimed to have enjoyed the discomfort caused by strong coffee. How many canvases alone depict the mysterious liquid - Cezanne, Mannet, Matisse, Rousseau Le Douanie, Braque, Toulouse-Lautrec and many others. And while the artists enjoyed the aroma and taste of coffee in creative solitude, others had slightly different needs. It is said that cafés are the right place for those who want to drink coffee and be alone, but in the company of others. The first cafés opened in Mecca before the beginning of the Cinquecento, but imams soon started putting a ban on them, not only because of the fear that congregations of people could assume politically undesirable colours, but also because the mosques became deserted and the cafés were getting fuller. But coffee could no longer be stopped, and Damascus, Cairo, and then Europe followed suit. These were the first schools of wisdom, which is the literal translation of the original name for coffee house, qahveh khaneh, kavahan, opened in Constantinople, nearly five hundred years ago. Here people enjoyed music, played chess, discussed politics, literature, life... Serenissima naturally followed, as people there already knew quite well how to enjoy their leisure time, and coffee was a welcomed spice. After being defeated by the Viennese, the Turks, saving their heads, left behind unprecedented wealth - tents, sheep, camels... and many bags of raw coffee beans. In the glory of victory, the Viennese bakers created

a puffed pastry in the shape of a crescent with the Turkish flag, the famous croissant, such a suitable companion for coffee, the marvellous Arabic wine. A Polish hero of the Battle of Vienna, Kulczycki, opened the first true Viennese coffee house as a result of war looting, since he had found sacks full of grains from which he could not make bread. By adding milk and honey to the bitter fluid, he blended the first variant of cappuccino, which the Capuchin friars later adorned with a topping of milk foam. After that, there were no obstacles - coffee spread all over Europe. France, Germany, Italy and England tacitly fell. However, not everything has been that smooth-going. At one point, in Germany, King Frederick put a ban on coffee because he thought that soldiers who drank coffee could not be relied on. That is why he set up special units, the notorious Kaffee Schnufflers, who sniffed around the streets looking for illegal coffee roasting operations. The prohibition was short-lived, only until the moment the king himself succumbed to the coffee temptation. In England, beer and wine traders got very peeved when they realised that coffee was suddenly becoming more popular than the drinks they sold. They mounted a fierce campaign and persuaded King Charles II to put a ban on coffee. However, the general public soon succeeded in revoking the ban. A women’s petition against coffee was signed by a group of London wives who were embittered about the fact that their husbands spent more time in coffee houses than at home. Is it necessary to mention that the only women who were allowed access to coffee houses were those who made it − all the others were banned. It makes men trifle away their time, CROATIA AIRLINES

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scald their chops, and spend their money, all for a little base, black, thick, bitter, nauseainducing, smelly puddle-water, was what the petition said. It is not surprising that the first coffee house in London, Turkish Head, was opened by a native of Dubrovnik, Pasqua Rosee. He had been brought to London as a male servant by his Turkish master. In our midst, coffee had already been enjoyed quite some time as one of the better accompaniments to Turkish conquests. At home, people usually prepared a drink known as Turkish coffee, quickly boiled in round copper or bronze coffee pots known under their Turkish name dæezva, and served in miniature cups known as fildæan, with a cube of sugar or broken tiles of baked sugar, similar to cream caramel, which would be placed on the tongue while strong hot coffee was slurped over it. Sometimes, guests were served rahat-lokum, an Oriental delicacy similar to gelatine. Once drunk, Turkish coffee would leave a residue at the bottom of the cup. The cup would then be turned upside down on the saucer and strained, and then somebody would read the patterns in the residue, seriously or with a hint of humour, to predict with more or less success the future of the person who had drunk the coffee. The public serving of coffee began in Zagreb in the 18th century, and that first took place under the vaulted ceilings of Harmica and tents in its western part. The canvas tents remained even when real cafés were built in the entire southern part of Harmica. It was pleasant to be under the tents decorated with flowers and greenery during the busiest time of day in warm seasons and observe the bustle and vivid costumes of the peasants who brought goods to the fair. Almost no one would believe that until recently this had been a landfill and wetlands where the Zagreb locals caught wild ducks. A century after the first cups of coffee were served publicly, all nine cafés on the square were as famous as the Viennese and Berlin cafés in terms of their appearance, comfort and offer. People found out the latest news in cafés, they cleared up political issues, and newspapers were not only read but also written there. People mostly read - one should remember that in the early 20th century some hundred newspapers were published in Zagreb and the cafés often attracted customers by advertising the number of newspapers they had on offer, in Croatian and in several foreign languages. The Grand Café, today’s Café Dubrovnik, of a truly metropolitan size, also served as a kind of stock market - here, right next to the fair, real stock market transactions took place. 92

Although it all started with coffee, the cafés have outgrown coffee. They have always been a place for socializing and sharing views, thoughts and ideas, whether intimate, courteous, artistic or political, a place for verbal clashes with opponents and critics, and a place for disputes and argument. For centuries people conspired in them, from love affairs to revolutions. Quite predictably, with British spies on every corner, a rebellion against the English king, which later grew into the American Revolution, was conceived in a Boston café. An appeal by a poor lawyer, who, in the heat of the moment, jumped up on a table in a Parisian café, lit the spark of the French Revolution. The Florian, the famous and one of the most expensive cafés in Venice, was the stronghold and headquarters of the Risorgimento, while the wounded hid and were tended to in its fragrant and elegant salons. The Spanish uprising and the Hungarian Revolution were forged in the café Lorenzo in Madrid and in the Pilvax Café in Budapest, respectively. One of the revolts broke out in Prussia, but the cause of it was coffee itself, that is, the fact that the enjoyment of coffee was restricted to the nobility, clergy and high officials. The revolutionary year 1968 of the last century, an important and formative event in modern world history, was lynch pinned by the birth of protest music in the U.S.A. It is no coincidence that its leaders, Bob Dylan and Joan Baez, the heroes of the counterculture whose writings are intertwined with anti-war messages and the struggle for human rights, began their careers in − cafés. Today, Zagreb’s cafés are definitely no longer what they once were if you think of them as exclusively cafés from that golden era, with high ceilings and galleries, art nouveau chandeliers, Thonet chairs, newspaper holders made of twigs, all that pre-war inventory, fine porcelain tableware and waiters in livery, of the kind that existed even in the socialist 50s when the old cafés still had the status of being culture assets and when their legacy was still cherished. At one time sumptuous cafés occupied all the strategic locations at each intersection of Ilica with Lower Town streets perpendicular to it, all the way to the British Square (or IliËki Square as was once known). Unfortunately, there is no longer the Secession café Corso on the corner with GunduliÊeva Street. It was the finest and most fashionable city café, with magnificent bevelled edge crystal mirrors, leather sofas, and even the first swivel door in Zagreb. Corso was big enough to be the meeting place of artists, writers, painters, journalists, the entire artistic, cultural, intellectual crème de la crème, and the high school and college

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students who knew how to smuggle coats past the cloakroom attendant to save for one more coffee. Corso was one of the hangouts of the greatest Croatian literary Bohemians, Matoπ and UjeviÊ, who almost always could be found in one of the cafés within the golden triangle. They preferred cruising between Kazaliπna (the Theatre Café), the Café Bauer and Corso, rather than to dwell in the poverty and solitude of their modest, more often than not, cold rooms. Krleæa and MarinkoviÊ, the last two great bards of Croatian literature, frequented cafés and discussed topics over a coffee melange and croissants. They were certainly not the only ones who had their regular tables at that time. For a long time already there is no café Bauer on the corner of Ilica and Frankopanska, the Sistine Chapel for the Zagreb natives, so named because of its painted walls; gone are the mandatory billiard tables and the dignified smoke of fine tobacco. MeduliÊ Café is no longer where it once was at the top of the namesake street not far from the Academy of Fine Arts - the unofficial headquarters and meeting place of generations of Croatian artists, professors and their students. One world is irretrievably lost, but the cafés have remained, albeit no longer of the kind that we might wish to preserve, seized with attacks of nostalgia. Of course they are different now, complying with the new times, but no less pleasant for that. The renovated Gradska Kavana has managed to retain part of its clientele, however, the Kazaliπna café completely altered its appearance and lost its former Bohemian flair, but that is why it has attracted the golden youth. Palainovka, the Upper Town’s oldest café, has been redecorated and still works. It opened in 1837, with some special original features in its interior, and people particularly enjoy visiting it from spring to autumn due to the pleasant shade of the ancient trees under which tables are set out all the way to the Vraz Promenade and even spilling onto it ever so discreetly. Having lost most of the classic cafés, Zagreb has still steadily and stubbornly expanded its café offer with smaller, but no less pleasant places in which to socialize, drink coffee, read newspapers, check your mail or update your Facebook status. Some of them are highly specialized in their offer and connect it with other activities. Thus, in the same street where the closed grand MeduliÊ once was, the café Kôta opened within the bookstore for architecture, design, art and photography, under the motto: architecture with the flavour of coffee. With your favourite drink you can browse through the latest professional publications in the field CROATIA AIRLINES

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of architecture, and there are often musical events in the evenings. There is a street that leads from the forests of Tuπkanac and Rokov Park to the turbulence of Ilica Street in just a few steps; the quiet Deæmanov Passage. This passage acts as a tunnel that brings fresh and pure oxygen from Sljeme to the city. Here you will find two unavoidable café toponyms. One is a famous cult meeting place Velvet, re-opened in three parts − a bistro type café, a café with an art gallery, and a pleasant terrace situated in the shade of Aleksandrove Stube. If you are in the company of friends, you will enjoy the relaxed and friendly atmosphere. If you are alone and if you have had enough of people-watching, you can browse through some of the various thematic magazines that are available there. The owner, a painter with an unmistakable feeling for flowers, will ensure an entirely atypical repertoire in the jardinières on the terrace, which changes frequently − one time the decorations will be great white hellebore, and the next time intoxicating lilies of the valley; yet another time it will be dignified purple foxgloves, and young birch trees with pellucid tops that have recently been brought and placed in the middle of the terrace. A few metres further down the street you will find the Institut Parfumeur Flores, which along with bespoke perfumes offers unusual space in its interior, with a long, family table and a very comfortable terrace outside the premises. Along with an excellent selection of teas, here you will drink one of the best cups of espresso in Zagreb. The Upper Town café-gallery Lav occupies several urban salons next door to the Stone Gate. It is peculiar owing to the fact that it has almost a homey atmosphere; in comfortable reclining chairs and canapés, in perfect peace, without noise, you can chat for hours, as if you were in your own living room. Of course, at the same time, you can see exhibits of the works of contemporary Croatian artists. In Petrova Street is the unavoidable Kim’s Coffee, a lovingly furnished space where coffee is served with a delicious cake. In MartiÊeva Street, however, there is a place entirely different from the others. With a superb espresso, here you will enjoy the completely wacky-designed interior. Tables with shovels instead of legs, as well as a number of details, optical illusions, mirrors and a false door will take so much of your attention that you may forget to order your favourite beverage. Muzungu in Masarykova Street is a piece of Africa in Zagreb, decorated entirely in accordance with the imaginativeness with which coffee is enjoyed on its home continent. Bedouins, for example, drink coffee very sweet 94

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with added ginger or cardamom. In Uganda, the green grains are mixed with various herbs and spices, wrapped in packages of grass and hung on the walls as a talisman or ornament. The coffee for the first Fair Trade Coffee Shop Muzungu, where you can enjoy the rhythms and flavours of this enchanting continent, comes directly from Uganda. Along with a cup of African coffee, you can see displays of African artefacts, among other things, paper jewellery, Masai bracelets and masks from Congo, as well as statues, furniture and jewellery. Today, only four cafés have remained on the main square - along with Gradska Kavana, the last great coffee house, there is Café Dubrovnik, Mala Kavana and some others with their strategically placed terraces with beautiful views of every corner of the square. Not far from the top station of the funicular, on St. Catherine’s Square, is Brokenships Café, part of the Museum of Broken Relationships. After visiting this unique museum, which is like an emotional rollercoaster, making you smile and cry at the same time, you can silence your agitated feelings and thoughts in the museum’s café with superb coffee or mulled wine, accompanied by lavender-flavoured biscuits or gingerbread cookies, traditional cookies from Zagreb made with honey and pepper; honey for laughter and pepper for tears. From the Upper Town you should go down the stairs that lead to TkalËiÊeva, one of the liveliest streets in Zagreb. The entire winding street developed into a pedestrian zone that follows the bed of a former stream. A long time ago it was known for its red lanterns, signs of brothels which had longer working hours and thus presented a rather unfair competition to the cafés. The brothels are gone, and that is why the street that lives from early morning until late at night is full of small little cafés that turn into night clubs. Along with the legendary Melin, one of the most pleasant and beautifully landscaped cafés is the newly opened History. Krivi Put is a new breed of café, an underground cult club which brings together different types of young people, such as the preppy ones, somewhat superficial and blasé Zagreb youth whose comings and goings are happily followed by the equally superficial populist press. Thousands of young people have adopted this gathering place, from the followers of alternative cultures to the good students from the nearby Student Centre, their professors, journalists, photographers, graffiti artists and physicists. However, the most densely populated cafés are found in the city centre, stretching from 96

the Ban JelaËiÊ Square to the Cvjetni Square. They all have their own terraces on the sidewalks, one of the better French inventions. They follow one another in an almost continuous series, and Café in Preobraæenska Street there is the first in the chain of Franck’s Supercaffes, which unite the traditional and modern. And so, modified and conceptually differentiated, cafés have remained necessary interspaces, resting places between the worlds. They do not impose themselves aggressively upon us like school or work, they are not demanding like home and family, nor are they binding or big on protocol, such as the theatre. You do not need to go with an escort, because you always have company there, even when there is nobody you know at any of the other tables. Here you are somehow less alone even when you are completely alone. You simply ARE. You enter, look for an empty table, perhaps in a corner or next to the window, a place bathed in the sun or with a good view of the street, at the entrance or the rest of the space. You sit back, collect fragments of the conversation at the next table, which you really are not too interested in, or, better yet, listen to the unrecognizable, but warm human babbling coming from all sides, the polyvocal songs of amplified conversations. You look at the faces that surround you, a lovely woman listing through a journal while waiting for someone, large and cheerful groups who always laugh loudly at the same story tellers, two rather suspicious agents who speak at a low voice with their heads close, the group of students who are arguing and sit for hours over one coffee and five glasses of water. If the girl at the table in the corner was not typing a text message on her cell phone, and her companion was not searching the internet on his laptop, you might think that you have returned to the better part of the last century. All the rest is the same. Finally, order what you want - a strong espresso with character, exuding the intoxicating smell of real coffee, which should be enjoyed slowly, adorned only with its own thick foam like that of scrambled egg yolks, or a macchiato, or even a cappuccino with a trembling cover of foamed milk, or coffee with whipped cream in which spoons with sugar produce their clinking undertones in yet another calming ritual of mixing. Strong or weak, hot or chilled, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, in cups or glasses, alone or in company, in a comfortable chair, recliner or sofa, with conversation, with a newspaper or book, in defiance of the new-age virtual gathering places. Of course, you can only do this at a café, the old habit, daily necessity, the clean, well lit place as described by Hemingway. n

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oda i stil stanuju samo nekoliko minuta hoda od Trga bana JelaËiÊa, srediπnjega zagrebaËkog trga. Centar Kaptol najljepπa je oaza luksuza u Hrvatskoj. Burberry, Armani Jeans, Gant, Christian Audigier, Weekend Max Mara, Max & Co., Stefanel − samo su neki od svjetski slavnih brendova Ëije su trgovine smjeπtene u Centru Kaptol. Za odabir modnih dodataka po mjeri æena i muπkaraca sa stilom, tu su Lancel, Staccato Porsche Design, Samsonite, optike i trgovine s nakitom. U Centru Kaptol posjetitelji mogu pronaÊi i sve za svoje najmlae. The Core Kids nudi im odjeÊu i modne dodatke Armanija, Tommyja Hilfigera i Ralpha Laurena, a Andrews Baby Company i one2play igraËke i sitnice za ureenje djeËjih soba.

Iako cijenjen zbog jedinstvene ponude koja obuhvaÊa Ëak 85 trgovina, a koja se moæe upoznati i putem internetske te Facebook stranice, Centar Kaptol je mnogo viπe od mjesta za odliËnu kupnju. U njegovim se restoranima moæe uæivati u specijalitetima mediteranske i japanske kuhinje, a slastice iz slastiËarnice Torte i to hvale Ëak i svjetski slavni kulinarski autoriteti koji se nau u posjetu Zagrebu. Mjesto nezaboravne gastronomske avanture su i BonkuloviÊ delikatese, najbolja delikatesna trgovina u ovom dijelu Europe. Na njezinim su policama najfiniji proizvodi iz svih dijelova svijeta, ali i oni najbolji hrvatski poput vina, rakija te maslinovog ulja. Koliko je maslinarstvo ukorijenjeno u hrvatsku gastronomiju i kulturu, posjetitelji Centra Kaptol mogu doznati u Galeriji maslinova ulja. Pet kino dvorana dobro je poznato odrediπte ljubiteljima filmske, ali i ostalih umjetnosti. Naime, osim u najnovijoj filmskoj produkciji tamo se moæe uæivati i u prijenosima spektakala iz najpoznatijih svjetskih baletnih, opernih i kazaliπnih kuÊa. Onima pak koji æele osjetiti ritam zagrebaËkog noÊnog æivota, preporuËuje se posjet barovima u prizemlju Centra Kaptol. Iz Khala Bara i Jackie Brown od ranog jutra do kasnih noÊnih sati prπte dobre vibracije − upravo onakve kakve turist æeli osjetiti u gradu koji tek otkriva i u koji se jednoga dana æeli vratiti.

ashion and style reside only a few minutes’ walk from Ban JelaËiÊ Square, Zagreb’s central square. Centar Kaptol is the most beautiful oasis of luxury in Croatia. Burberry, Armani Jeans, Gant, Christian Audigier, Weekend Max Mara, Max & Co., Stefanel − these are just some of the world famous brands with stores located in Centar Kaptol. For a choice of fashion accessories suited to men and women of style, there are Lancel, Staccato Porsche Design, Samsonite, optical and jewelry stores. In Centar Kaptol, visitors can find everything for their young ones, as well. The Core Kids offers them clothes and fashion accessories by Armani, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren, while Andrews Baby Company and one2play offer toys and decorative knick-knacks for children’s bedrooms. While highly regarded for its unique offer including no less than 85 shops, which you can also come to know through the web and Facebook pages, Centar Kaptol is much more than a great shopping spot. In its restaurants you can enjoy Mediterranean and Japanese specialties, and confections from the sweetshop Torte i to are praised even by world famous culinary authorities visiting Zagreb. Another place of unforgettable gastronomic adventures is BonkuloviÊ Delicatessen, the best delicatessen shop in this part of Europe. On its shelves lie the finest products from all parts of the world, as well as the best Croatian products like wine, brandy and olive oil. Centar Kaptol visitors can find out just how much is olive growing rooted in Croatian gastronomy and culture in Olive Oil Gallery. Five cinema auditoriums are a well-known destination for lovers of film, as well as other arts. Namely, besides the latest film productions, there you can also enjoy broadcasts of spectacles from the world’s most renowned ballet, opera and theatre houses. As for those who want to feel the rhythm of Zagreb night life, we recommend a visit to the bars on Centar Kaptol’s ground floor. Khala Bar and Jackie Brown are bursting with good vibrations from early morning to late night − just what a tourist wants to feel in a city he has just begun to discover and wants to return to one day.

Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17, Zagreb www.centarkaptol.hr http://www.facebook.com/CentarKaptol CROATIA AIRLINES

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Dubrovnik โ savrลกe n i zb o r za sva g o d i ลก n j a d o b a !

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■ MARITIMNA BAŠTINA MARITIME HERITAGE

Hrid Zaglav The Cliff of Zaglav

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Hrvatska je zemlja mora i otoka, nositeljica bogate prirodne i kulturne baπtine. Ovaj tekst posveÊen je jadranskim svjetionicima, istaknutom segmentu nacionalne maritimne baπtine, i njihovu svjetlu koje se, kao i sva ostala, bez oËekivanog uzvrata, dobrostivo daruje nevidljivome i nepoznatome. Croatia - a land of sea and islands, boasts a rich natural and cultural heritage. This text is dedicated to a prominent segment of Croatian maritime culture: Adriatic lighthouses and their lights which like all others graciously give themselves to the unseen and unknown, never expecting anything in return.

Piše/By Goran StojanoviÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

vjetlo je esencija vidljivosti stvorenoga i stvaranja. Ono je nastajanje, nada, buenje, putokaz... Joπ kao dijete katkad sam bio zagledan u more, u beskrajnu puËinu koja zavrπava negdje daleko, u nedohvatu vlastita vida. U tim sam, za mene mistiËnim trenucima, tijekom zore ili zarumjenjeloga sutona, promiπljao o svijetu morskih dubina. U noÊima sam, na istim tim obalama, traæio svjetlo, znak ili zvijezdu pokaznicu koja je moj pogled usmjeravala na nebeski svod - na plavetni beskraj kreacije i stvaranja. Joπ od davnina Ëovjek je spoznao snagu svjetlosti. Ona mu je oduvijek osvjetljavala tamu, darivajuÊi ga vidljivoπÊu njegova osobnog prostora, smjera i kretanja. O svjetlu se moæe mnogo zboriti jer svojom je sluæbom i misijom viπestruko prisutno - kao svjetlo zvjezdanih prostranstava, svjetlo munje nad otvorenim nebom, svjetlo luke na obzoru, svjetlo ljubavi i nade, duπe i mudrosti, svjetlo Zemlje, kontinenata i gradova, vidljivih i iz svemirskih daljina, svjetlo krπÊanskih voπtanica i semitskih menora, svjetlo mjeseËine i drevnoga Sunca, svjetlo istoka, svjetlo sjeÊanja i nadahnuÊa… Sva ta svjetla, bez posustajanja, svijetle iz jednog izvora, iz svemirske iskre istinskih vrijednosti, koja svojom prisutnoπÊu, kao i

najmanji plamen, pobjeuju bespuÊa tmine. Plovimo li noÊu i ne diæemo li pogled, nego ga dræimo u ravnini puËinskog obzorja, uvijek nanovo traæimo svjetlo, trag i znak raspuknuÊa tame koja nestaje. Svjetionici su vitezna zdanja, baπtinici tog svjetla za kojim Ëezne pogled pomorca i promatraËa koji nadohvat æeli vidjeti uporiπte, sigurno usmjerenje, putokaz nepomiËnog dobronamjernika. Ni jedan svjetionik, kao kakva laterna magica, ne moæe opstati bez svoga noÊnog bdijenja, kao πto ni jedan od istinskih junaka, koji su se borili i izborili sa silama mraka, nije to Ëinio a da se nije ËvrπÊe zagrlio sa snagom osobne svjetlosti. Iz povijesnih je izvora poznato da je preteËa danaπnjim svjetionicima bio svjetionik antiËke Aleksandrije, sagraen na otoku Farosu oko 300. godine pr. Kr. po projektima grËkog arhitekta Sostrata. Sastavljena iz tri razine ukupne visine od oko 117 metara, ta je monumentalna graevina viπe od jednog tisuÊljeÊa osvjetljavala luku, koristeÊi se noÊnom vatrom podræavanom drvom i smolom, a konkavnim je zrcalom danju pokazivala svoj poloæaj reﬂektirajuÊi SunËevo svjetlo kojim se, prema legendi, koristilo i za spaljivanje neprijateljskih brodova. Kad su Arapi osvojili Egipat, divili su se Aleksandriji i svjetioniku koji je bio spominjan CROATIA AIRLINES

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Rt Savudrija The Savudrija Cape

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Rt Peneda The Peneda Cape CROATIA AIRLINES

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Rt Savudrija The Savudrija Cape

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Rt Veli rat The Veli Rat Cape CROATIA AIRLINES

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OtoËiÊ Sv. Andrija The St. Andrija Islet

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OtoËiÊ Sestrica Vela-Tajer The Sestrica Vela-Tajer Islet

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Rt Veli rat The Veli Rat Cape

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OtoËiÊ Palagruža The Palagruža Islet

Zahvali plamenu za svjetlost, ali ne zaboravi onoga tko dræi svjetiljku i tko stoji u sjeni ne sustajuÊi u strpljenju. Rabindranath Tagore Thank the ﬂame for its light, but do not forget the lamp holder standing in the shade with constancy of patience. Rabindranath Tagore

i u njihovim spisima. Daleke 1375. jaki je potres razorio svjetionik i tada je nestalo jedno od sedam svjetskih Ëuda. Po otoku Farosu nastala je i imenica za svjetionik, a farologijom nazvana je i znanost o svjetioniËarstvu. Iz Jadranskog mora kojim se Sredozemlje najdublje uvuklo u kopno starog kontinenta, uzdiæe se impresivan hrvatski arhipelag s vrhovima planina nekadaπnjeg kopna, koje je davno povezivalo padine visokih Dinarida s ravniËarskim Apeninima u kopneni kontinuum. Brodarenje Jadranom stoga ne razumijeva napasti oceanske puËine s viπemetarskim valovima, ali zbog velike razvedenosti toga morskog bazena s obiljem otoËja, pojavljuju se druge opasnosti pouzdane navigacije. Zato se joπ od davnih vremena nastojalo obiljeæiti mjesta pouzdanih prolaza kako bi se otklonile prijetnje mnogih hridi i podvodnih grebena. Do vremena kad su 112

svjetionici zabljesnuli svojim svjetlima, plovidbe noÊu bile su velika opasnost. U antici, kaæe dr.sc. Joπko BoæaniÊ u eseju o svjetionicima, putovalo se danju, i to u ljetnom razdoblju godine. Na more se nije smjelo prije nego list smokve naraste toliko da moæe pokriti ljudski dlan. Ipak, mnogi brodolomi svjedoËe o nepoznavanju brojnih opasnosti od pomorskih grebena πto strπe prema povrπini iz dubina mora. Potkraj 18. stoljeÊa, toËnije 1797. godine, padom Venecije, Austro-Ugarska Monarhija dolazi na Jadran, a hrvatska obala s otocima postaje sastavni dio Carstva, koje tada uvodi red u dræavnu administraciju, u kopnene i morske komunikacije, a zakonima ureuje funkcioniranje pomorskog prometa i potrebne pomorske signalizacije. Tijekom 19. i u poËetku 20. stoljeÊa Carstvo gradi i mreæu svjetlosnih orijentira i potrebne svjetionike, kojima naπ akvatorij raspolaæe i danas. Tada se, prvi put, osigurava plovidba i istoËnom stranom Jadrana, kako u noÊnim, tako i u nevremenskim uvjetima. Velika obitelj od Ëetrdeset osam jadranskih svjetionika, od kojih trideset tri pripadaju i kulturnim dobrima, dobronamjernicima nudi veliki raspon vizura i osebujnih panorama. U takvoj kontemplaciji Jadrana kao iskona tradicijskih baπtina i sjeÊanja predaka, nemoguÊe je zaobiÊi te hrabre svjetlosne vizure kao dio jadranskog univerzuma, uporiπta u svladavanju prirodnih

tegoba na nenastanjenim puËinskim otocima, hridima i grebenima. Kao javna dobra, svjetionici su uglavnom osamljeni u svom okruæju, podizani na uoËljivim i Ëesto teπko dostupnim mjestima otoËnih i kopnenih obala, rtova, uzvisina i udaljenih πkoja u neposrednom dodiru s elementima prirode − tvrdim kamenjarom, dubokim morem, πkrtim raslinjem i snaænim vjetrovima, a svojim dalekometnim zrakama svjetlosti i danas nude Ëvrste koordinate za odreivanje poloæaja pri plovidbi. Svjetionike, baπ kao i njihove svjetioniËare, veoma rijetko posjeÊuju, a rijetko ih se i vidi. Drugima su uvijek bili i ostali na usluzi, povuËeni u svoje svjetove sluæenja bez oËekivanja neke posebne nagrade, kao da svjetlost davanja i nije najveÊa nagrada davatelja. »uvajuÊi svoju samoÊu, ta kamena zdanja, minuciozno i odgovorno graena ﬁnim klesancima u odmjerenim kvadrima, saËuvala su duh mjesta na kojima su podignuta. Svaki od svjetionika svijet je za sebe, Ëastan u svojoj nepristupaËnosti, neobiËan u aﬁrmaciji ljudske skromnosti, osobit u svojoj tajnovitosti. Svim hrvatskim svjetionicima upravlja trgovaËko druπtvo Plovput iz Splita, koje odræava i upravlja plovnim putovima hrvatskih morskih voda i teritorijalnog mora. To je druπtvo, u ime Republike Hrvatske, ujedno i Ëlan Meunarodne udruge svjetioniËarskih sluæbi International Association of Lighthouse Authorities. Meu mnogobrojnim jadranskim svjetionicima istiËe se Savudrija kao najstariji, najzapadniji i najsjeverniji jadranski svjetionik u funkciji, graen daleke 1818. godine. Od njega se, prema krajnjem jugu hrvatskog Jadrana, spuπta biserni niz svjetionika. Zadnji je u nizu svjetionik Grebeni, graen 1872. godine, koji se nalazi na milju od Dubrovnika. Naziv je dobio po grebenima na kojima su, do njegove izgradnje, nestali u moru mnogi ribarski brodovi. Ipak, postoji svjetionik osobit po poloæaju i veliËini. RijeË je o Palagruπkom svjetioniku sagraenome 1875. godine, koji se smjestio na najudaljenijem hrvatskom otoku, na mei talijanske i hrvatske obale. Veoma lijep, taj kameni objekt poloæen je na vrhu od 110 metara uskoga klisurastoga grebena otoka Palagruæe Vele, gdje vizurom Ëarobno dominira krajolikom najveÊega od nekoliko otoka i otoËiÊa usred Jadranskog mora. Arheoloπki nalazi dokazuju da je Palagruæa bila naseljena joπ prije 9000 godina, a u srednjem vijeku tu je bio samostan Ëije su ruπevine na srednjem sedlu otoka i sada vidljive. Povremeni su stanovnici komiπki ribari, koji na tom podruËju ribare joπ od 14. stoljeÊa, jer okolno je more jedno od najbogatijih ribolovnih podruËja. Crkveni izvori biljeæe kako je Palagruæu 1177. godine pohodio i papa Aleksandar III. putujuÊi

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sa svojom pomorskom flotom u hrvatske krajeve, jer putovanja duæ talijanske obale, zbog opasnosti od bure, bila su opasna, osobito zimi. Tom prilikom, 9. oæujka, papi je i posluæena veËera na maloj visoravni Palagruæe Male, koja se otad naziva Papina njiva. Nakon boravka na Palagruæi papa je odjedrio prema Visu, Zadru i Veneciji, kako bi, ploveÊi duæ istarske obale, stigao u Mletke. Mnoge priËe i mitovi u vezi su sa svjetionicima. Oduvijek su ti objekti izdvojeni od mjesta i zajednica vezivali uza se neku tajanstvenost, priËe zabranjenih ljubavnih veza s tuænim zavrπetkom, osamljenost, hrabrost, ostavljenost… Tako je uz juænojadranski svjetionik Sveti Andrija, sagraen 1873. godine, vezana jedna od najtuænijih ljubavnih i svjetioniËarskih priËa. U knjizi Kamena svjetla autor Neven ©eriÊ, izmeu mnogih priËa i legendi o jadranskim svjetionicima, o mjestima na kojima su sagraeni i o njihovom podmorju iznosi i sljedeÊu legendu: Koncem devetnaestog stoljeÊa zaljubio se mladi ribar s otoka Lopuda u prelijepu kÊer svjetioniËara sa Svetog Andrije. No njezini roditelji smatrali su da siromaπni mladiÊ nije pravi izbor za njihovu kÊer. Ljubav dvoje mladih bila je jaËa, te je hrabri mladiÊ Ëesto noÊu preplivavao dvije milje udaljenosti do otoËiÊa Sveti Andrija, kako bi provodio noÊi s odabranicom svog srca. Nakon nekog vremena primijetili su otac i braÊa πto se deπava i smislili zao plan. Kada su sljedeÊe noÊi vidjeli da se djevojka iskrala iz svjetionika, ugasili su svjetlo, te se ukrcali u barku u kojoj su zapalili petrolejku. Lagano veslajuÊi prema puËini odvukli su nesretnog mladiÊa za svjetlom. MladiÊ je plivao do zore, iznemogao klonuo i nestao u modrim dubinama. Saznavπi nakon nekog vremena πto se dogodilo izabraniku njezina srca, nesretna se djevojka od æalosti bacila niz juæne litice otoka. Ni njeno tijelo nikada nije pronaeno. Neki ronioci s ovog podruËja priËaju kako se u dubinama pod juænim liticama otoka Sveti Andrija mogu primijetiti dvije kirnje koje se, netipiËno za odrasle primjerke, stalno dræe zajedno i zamiËu u dubinu na samu pojavu Ëovjeka. Duboko razoËarane u ljudsku vrstu, moæda su duπe dvoje ljubavnika …u modrim dubinama s juæne strane Svetog Andrije. SvjetioniËari su osobe vezane uza svjetionik. Nekad je svaki svjetionik imao svoje svjetioniËare, a danas borave samo na nekima od njih. Suvremene tehnologije uËinile su svoje, tako da su danas svi jadranski svjetionici automatizirani i nadzirani sustavom daljinskog nadzora. Ali, zbog znaËenja svjetionika za sigurnost plovidbe te zaπtite svjetioniËarskih zgrada, na sedamnaest jadranskih svjetionika joπ se i danas nalazi mala svjetioniËarska posada.

Svjetionici pruæaju dodir s univerzumom. Druæiti se sa svjetioniËarima, tim Ëuvarima svjetla kamenih tornjeva okrenutih moru, osobit je dogaaj. U njima se oËituje mudrost komunikacije sa svijetom i sve-mirom na dublji, snaæniji i jednostavan naËin, mnogo bogatiji nego πto to nudi æivot u nekome velikom gradu. Æivjeti na otoku na kojemu su jedini stanovnici galebovi, leptiri, guπteri i svjetioniËari znaËi biti gluh na civilizacijsku buku i tekovine brzih promjena. Tu se daruje moguÊnost povezivanja s prirodom, vjetrom, morem, samim sobom. Kakvo bogatstvo! Svjetionici su najljepπi ljetnikovci na Jadranu, koji pruæaju jedinstven osjeÊaj istinske ljepote. Sagraeni u bijelom kamenu, u krajolicima osobitih kolorita, svjetioniËarske zgrade danas udomljavaju i turiste koji se vole odmaknuti od turistiËkih srediπta, koji vole mir i bisernu ËistoÊu nebeskih prostranstava. Jadranski svjetionici estetskih dimenzija svaki dan iskazuju i etiËku pouku: ne iznevjeriti funkciju svog postojanja, osvjetljavati prostore oko sebe, pruæati sigurnost, pomagati daljinama iz srediπta vlastite osi. Oni su nepokoreni vitezovi koji egzistiraju u sjeni i skromnosti, suzdræani u pokazivanju, na crti svojih valova i dalekih obzorja. U svakome od njih boravi dobri duh suosjeÊanja, razumijevanja, pomaganja. I zato je u njima, i uz grmljavinu neba, huku vjetra i udara morskih valova, moguÊe Ëuti glas ljubavi, sa strahopoπtovanjem pojaËanim do maksimuma. n

ight is the essence of visibility for everything that exists or is being created. It is gestation, hope, awakening, a signpost... As a child, I gazed across the seemingly endless sea to the offing where the sea and the sky were welded together almost beyond the reach of my gaze. During those mystical moments at sunrise or at glowing sunset, I reflected on the deep underwater world. At night, on those same shores, I would look for light, for a sign or a star to direct my gaze towards the celestial dome ∑ towards the blue endlessness of creation and conception. People first started to appreciate the power of light a long time ago. It was a beacon for their darkness; it provided visibility for their own space, for their own direction and movement. A lot can be said about light because its purpose and mission are multifold ∑ it comes in different shapes and forms: as the light of the starry expanse; the flash of lightning across the open sky; the lights of a harbour on the horizon; the light of love and hope, of the soul and wisdom; the light of the Earth, of its continents and cities, visible from cosmic distances; the light of Christian tee lights and Semitic menorahs; the moonlight and the light

of the ancient Sun; the light coming from the east, the light of remembrance and inspiration. All these lights shine with constancy from one source, from the cosmic spark of true values which conquer the wasteland of darkness with only the presence of the smallest flame. While sailing at night, if we do not look up, but rather cast our gaze level with the horizon, we keep on looking for light, for a sign, for a glimpse of that place where darkness breaks up and starts disappearing. Lighthouses are knight-like edifices, effigies of light that sailors and observers long to see when they look for a stronghold within their reach, for a safe direction, for this immobile benevolent signpost. A lighthouse is like a laterna magica: none of them can survive if they stop their night vigil, just like no true hero would have prevailed in the struggle against the powers of the darkness without having held firmer to the power of their own personal light. Historical sources tell us that the predecessor of the modern-day lighthouse was the lighthouse of ancient Alexandria. It was built on the Island of Pharos, some 300 years B.C. according to the designs of the Greek architect Sostrat. The 117 metre∑high monumental building made up of three stages lit the harbour for over a millennium. A fire of wood and resin was lit at night, whereas a concave mirror at its apex reflected sunlight during the day to show its position as well as to burn enemy ships. When the Arabs conquered Egypt, they were in awe of Alexandria and the lighthouse, which was mentioned even in their own documents. When the earthquake destroyed the lighthouse in 1375, one of the Seven Wonders of the World was gone. The name Pharos is still used as the noun for lighthouse in some languages and the word pharology stands for the science dealing with lighthouses and signal lights. The impressive Croatian archipelago rises from the Adriatic Sea, the deepest intersection of the Mediterranean into the body of the old continent. Today’s islands are the tops of the former continental mountains which used to connect the slopes of the high Dinaric range with the low-lying Apennines and thus formed a land continuum. Consequently, sailing the Adriatic does not mean attacking ocean expanses with waves several metres high. Nevertheless, other perils to safe navigation are caused by the remarkable indentation of the coastline which abounds among the islands. Attempts to avert the dangers posed by the numerous rocks and underwater cliffs and to mark the routes of safe passage were first made in the distant past. Until the moment when lighthouses started shining their bright lights far out into the sea, night time navigation presented a great danger. CROATIA AIRLINES

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In ancient times, says scientist Joπko BoæaniÊ in his essay on lighthouses, people travelled during the day, mostly in summertime. One was not well-advised to take to the sea before a fig leaf was big enough to cover one’s palm. However, many shipwrecks are testament to the fact that people were not aware of all the dangers; that they did not know about ledges protruding through the bottom of the sea up to the surface. In the late 18th century, more precisely in 1797, with the fall of Venice, the Austro-Hungarian Empire stretched all the way down to the Adriatic Coast, and the Croatian littoral and its islands became its integral parts. The new ruler introduced order into the state administration, for land and maritime roads, and laid laws to regulate the functioning of maritime traffic including the necessary maritime signalization. During the 19th and early 20th century, the Empire built a network of beacons and the necessary lighthouses that still adorn our maritime space to this very day. Night time sailing and sailing in bad weather along the eastern shore of the Adriatic was thus made safe for the first time. The large family of 48 Adriatic lighthouses, of which 30 are listed under cultural heritage, offers a wide range of views and remarkable panoramas to admirers. In contemplating the Adriatic as the origin of traditional heritage and the cradle of the memories of our predecessors, 114

it is impossible to ignore these courageous light sentinels as part of the Adriatic universe; these strongholds embedded on uninhabited offshore islands, rocks and ridges have helped us prevail against natural hardships. As public property, lighthouses are mostly isolated in their environment; they were erected at easily-visible but often rather inaccessible places on the littoral or on the islands, on capes, and on elevated grounds; on far away islets, in close contact with the elements of nature: hard rocks, the deep sea, sparse vegetation and strong winds. Their far-reaching beams of light still offer firm coordinates to help seamen determine their sailing position. Lighthouses and their keepers are seldom visited, and seldom seen. They have always served others, content to withdraw into a world of service without expecting a special reward, as if, indeed, giving light were not the biggest reward for the light giver. By preserving their solitude, these stony edifices have preserved the spirit of the places where they were erected. Each of them is a world of its own, dignified in their inaccessibility, remarkable in the affirmation of human modesty, special in their mysteriousness. All Croatian lighthouses are managed by the Split-based Plovput Company which manages and maintains navigable routes along the Croatian sea and territorial waters. On behalf of the Republic of Croatia, the company is also

a member of the International Association of Lighthouse Authorities. Savudrija, the westernmost and northernmost still-functioning Adriatic lighthouse occupies a special place. It was built way back in 1818 as the first in a string of lighthouses that follow the Adriatic Coast to its southernmost tip. The last in that series is the Grebeni lighthouse, which was built in 1872 a mile from Dubrovnik. It got its name from the sea ridges which were the bane of many fishing boats before the lighthouse was built. However, there is a lighthouse that stands out in terms of its position and size. It is the lighthouse on Palagruæa, built in 1875, on the island farthest away from the Croatian coast, on the border between the Italian and Croatian littorals. The magnificent stony edifice was erected at the top of a narrow cliff-like ridge, 110 metres high, on the island of Palagruæa Vela. Here, it sits among several bigger and smaller islands in the middle of the Adriatic and dominates the seascape. Archaeological remains testify to the 9000 years of habitation of Palagruæa. In the Middle Ages, a monastery existed there, whose ruins are still visible on the central saddle of the island. Occasional inhabitants are fishermen from Komiæa, who have been fishing there since the 14th century as the area has the most abundant supply of fish in the entire Adriatic. Ecclesiastical sources testify to Pope Alexander III’s visit to Palagruæa in 1177. He sailed along the Croatian coast with his maritime fleet because the strong bura wind made travel along the Italian coast perilous, especially in winter. At the time, on March 9th, the Pope was served dinner on the small plateau of Palagruæa Mala, which has since been known as Papina Njiva (the Pope’s Field). Having visited Palagruæa, the Pope sailed towards Vis and Zadar and then proceeded along the coast of Istria on his way to Venice. There are many stories and myths about lighthouses. These edifices, separated from settled areas and communities, have always conjured up some sort of mystery and inspired stories about forbidden love affairs with sad endings, solitude, courage, abandonment... For example, one of the saddest love stories about lighthouse keepers involves the southern Adriatic lighthouse of St. Andrija, which was built in 1873. In the book, Stone Lights, the author Neven ©eriÊ tells stories and legends about Adriatic lighthouses, the places they were built and the sea surrounding them. One of them goes as follows: Towards the end of the 19th century, a young fisherman from the island of Lopud fell in love with the beautiful daughter of the St. Andrija

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Besides their aesthetic appeal, lighthouses across the Adriatic convey an ethical message as well: not to betray the true purpose of their existence, which is to continue to be a beacon of light on surrounding areas, offering safety and extending help to those in the distance, far away from the centre of their own axis. They are unconquered knights who persist in the shadow of modesty, restrained in showmanship, on the front line of their own waves and faraway horizons. In every one of them resides a kindness of spirit, full of compassion, understanding and desire to help those in need. Despite the hurling of celestial thunders, the howling of the wind and the crashing of waves, it is still possible to hear the voice of love beckoning and feel a sense of heightened awe. n JADRANSKI SVJETIONICI S GEOGRAFSKIM POZICIJAMA LIGHTHOUSES OF THE ADRIATIC − POSITION

OtoËiÊ Palagruža The Palagruža Islet

lighthouse keeper. Unfortunately, her parents did not see the poor lad as the right suitor for their daughter. The young people’s love was stronger than any obstacle, and the brave lad would often swim at night to cross the two-mile distance to the islet of St. Andrija to spend nights with the love of his life. After some time, the father and the brothers got wise to what was really going on and devised a plan. The following night, when they saw the girl sneak out of the lighthouse, they turned off the tower beacon, embarked on a little boat and lit a light on it. Rowing slowly away from the mainland, they kept on drawing the young man towards them with the light. The lad swam until dawn, then succumbed to exhaustion and disappeared into the blue depths of the sea. When the girl learned of what had happened to her lover, she threw herself off a cliff on the southern side of the island. Neither of the two bodies was ever found again. Some divers who have explored the seabed under the southern cliffs of the island of St. Andrija say, one can observe two stone bass ﬁsh which, atypical of what adults do, always keep together and dive even deeper at a mere glance of a human being. Maybe these are the souls of the two lovers who were deeply let down by the human species... Lighthouse keepers are people attached to lighthouses. There was a time when every lighthouse had a keeper. Today, they only reside permanently at a few of them. Modern 116

technologies have prevailed so that nowadays, all Adriatic lighthouses work automatically via a remote control system. However, due to the importance of lighthouses for safe navigation, and for the protection of the building itself, seventeen structures across the Adriatic still have a small crew of caretakers. Lighthouses offer a glimpse into the universe. Meeting lighthouse keepers, the custodians of light coming from the sea-facing stone towers, is quite an experience. They convey the wisdom necessary to communicate with the world and with the universe in a deeper, more powerful and simpler way that is much richer than the communication offered by life in a big city. Living on an island with only seagulls, butterﬂies, lizards and lighthouse keepers as residents means to deafen oneself to the noise of civilization and to become oblivious to the impact of change and progress. The gift offered by such islands is the ability to connect with nature, with the wind, the sea, and with oneself. And what a gift that is! Lighthouses are the most beautiful summer homes on the Adriatic, offering the passerby a sense of rare beauty. Built amidst white stones and landscapes of remarkable colour, the lighthouse keepers’ living quarters provide accommodation to tourists wishing to escape the bustling tourist resorts, and yearning for the peace and untainted beauty of the expansive horizon.

SVJETIONIK LIGHTHOUSES 1 Savudrija 2 Rt Zub 3 Sv. Ivan 4 Peneda 5 Verudica 6 Porer 7 Marlera 8 Crna Punta 9 Mlaka 10 Susak 11 Vnetak 12 Zaglav 13 Prestenice 14 Vošćica 15 Oštro - Kraljevica 16 Stražica 17 Trstenik 18 Grujica 19 Veli rat 20 Vir 21 3 Sestrice rivanjske 22 Puntamika 23 Tajerske sestrice 24 Babac 25 Prišnjak 26 Blitvenica 27 Jadrija 28 Mulo 29 Murvica 30 Ražanj 31 Pokonji Dol 32 Stončica 33 Host 34 Sv. Petar 35 Sv. Nikola 36 Sućuraj 37 Lovište 38 Pločica 39 Sušac 40 Palagruža 41 Struga 42 Glavat 43 2 Sestrice-Korčula 44 Olipa 45 Slano 46 Daksa 47 Grebeni 48 Sv. Andrija

GEOGRAFSKA POZICIJA POSITION 45° 29,4' N / 013° 29,5' E 45° 17,9' N / 013° 34,4' E 45° 02,6' N / 013° 37,1' E 44° 53,3' N / 013° 45,5' E 44° 50,0' N / 013° 50,3' E 44° 45,5' N / 013° 53,8' E 44° 48,2' N / 014° 00,4' E 44° 57,4' N / 014° 09,0' E 45° 20,0' N / 014° 25,0' E 44° 30,8' N / 014° 18,5' E 44° 37,2' N / 014° 14,4' E 44° 55,3' N / 014° 17,6' E 45° 07,2' N / 014° 16,6' E 45° 14,3' N / 014° 35,7' E 45° 16,4' N / 014° 33,9' E 44° 56,0' N / 014° 46,4' E 44° 40,1' N / 014° 35,0' E 44° 24,6' N / 014° 34,4' E 44° 09,1' N / 014° 49,5' E 44° 18,2' N / 015° 01,9' E 44° 10,3' N / 015° 01,0' E 44° 07,8' N / 015° 12,5' E 43° 51,2' N / 015° 12,5' E 43° 57,4' N / 015° 24,0' E 43° 49,5' N / 015° 33,8' E 43° 37,5' N / 015° 34,8' E 43° 43,3' N / 015° 51,3' E 43° 30,9' N / 015° 55,' E 43° 28,0' N / 016° 03,7' E 43° 19,2' N / 016° 24,9' E 43° 09,4' N / 016° 27,4' E 43° 04,4' N / 016° 15,6' E 43° 04,6' N / 016° 12,6' E 43° 17,7' N / 017° 00,8' E 43° 21,7' N / 016° 44,4' E 43° 07,5' N / 017° 12,1' E 43° 02,8' N / 017° 00,4' E 43° 01,8' N / 016° 49,2' E 42° 45,0' N / 016° 29,7' E 42° 23,5' N / 016° 15,6' E 42° 43,4' N / 016° 53,4' E 42° 45,9' N / 017° 09,0' E 42° 57,8' N / 017° 12,7' E 42° 45,5' N / 017° 46,9' E 42° 46,6' N / 017° 52,7' E 42° 40,2' N / 018° 03,6' E 42° 39,1' N / 018° 03,2' E 42° 38,8' N / 017° 57,3' E

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DISCOVER CROATIAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NEWEST BEACH RESORTS Escape to the cool blue waters and open spaces of Croatiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous Istrian Peninsula and stay at one of our brand new upscale beach resorts. With every one of them situated along breath-taking seafronts, not far from lush Mediterranean vegetation and buzzing Istrian city-centres, you are assured of an exciting holiday. Come and experience the joy of discovery. For more information and to make a booking visit parkplaza.com/croatia

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oπinj obiljeæava tradiciju zdravstvenog turizma dulju od 120 godina. ZahvaljujuÊi blagoj mediteranskoj klimi, borovim πumama i zraku, to je idealno mjesto za okrepu duπe i tijela. NauËite æivjeti s nama, u harmoniji s prirodom! Ugodna klima s viπe od 2600 sunËanih sati godiπnje i bogatstvo aerosoli u zraku te profesor Ambroz HaraËiÊ zasluæni su πto je Loπinj joπ davne 1892. godine proglaπen klimatskim ljeËiliπtem. To je otok koji mirisima privlaËi iz daleka i mami goste da se prepuste svim svojim osjetilima jedinstvena miomirisna oaza. Svako godiπnje doba na naπem otoku pruæa neπto novo. Kroz miomirise i okuse Loπinja jedni Êe zavoljeti smokve i kupine ljeti, drugi πparoge i neπpule u proljeÊe, treÊi maslinu, mirtu i planiku u jesen, a Ëetvrti ljepotu i miris borove πume zimi. »ak 250 km πetnica na pet otoka povest Êe vas u avanturu otkrivanja svih ljepota krajolika ovog otoËja. Jedna od najljepπih - loπinjski lungomare, koja prati obalu mora prolazeÊi brojnim uvalama - omamit Êe vas ljepotom stoljetne borove πume. Uæivajte u aromaterapiji na otvorenom dok udiπete eteriËna ulja biljaka i borova, aerosoli iz mora sa zrakom vrhunske kvalitete te doæivite savrπen sklad po kojemu je Loπinj jedinstven. Osim na turistiËku, Loπinj je ucrtan i na svjetsku arheoloπku kartu jer je u plavetnilu bogatog loπinjskog podmorja, izmeu otoka Vele Orjule i Loπinja, pronaen jedinstveni antiËki bronËani kip iz II. ili I. st. pr. Kr. TuristiËka ponuda otoka Loπinja je velika, a kako bismo vam pomogli pri odabiru smjeπtaja o kakvom ste maπtali ili kvalitetne agencije koja Êe vam u tome pomoÊi, nudimo vam speciﬁËne razloge zbog kojih bi svatko od njih mogao biti vaπ izbor. ■

oπinj has a health tourism tradition of over 120 years. Thanks to its mild Mediter-

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ranean climate, pinewoods and air, this is an ideal place to recreate your body and spirit. Learn to live with us, in harmony with nature! The pleasant climate with over 2600 sunny hours a year, an air full of aerosols and Professor Ambroz HaraËiÊ are the reasons why Loπinj was proclaimed a health resort way back in 1892. This is an island attracting with its aromas from afar and luring its guests to surrender to all senses − a unique aromatic oasis. Each season on our island provides something new. Thanks to the aromas and tastes of Loπinj, some will fall in love with ﬁgs and blackberries in summer, others will like asparagus and loquat in spring, some will prefer olives, myrtle and strawberry tree in autumn, and some will like the beauty and smell of pinewoods in wintertime. As much as 250 km of promenades will take you on an adventure of discovering all beauties of this island’s landscapes. The Loπinj seaside promenade (lungomare), passing along many coves, will dazzle you with the beauty of centuries-old pinewoods. Enjoy outdoor aromatherapy while breathing in essential oils of herbs and pines and aerosols from a top-quality air and experience a perfect harmony unique to Loπinj. In addition to the tourist map of the world, Loπinj is included in the archeological map of the world because a unique ancient bronze statue dating back to the 2nd or 1st century B.C. has been found in the blue underwater world surrounding Loπinj, between the island of Vela Orjula and Loπinj.

The tourist offer of the Island of Loπinj is extensive − to help you choose accommodation you have always dreamed about or a good agency that will help you with this, we are offering speciﬁc reasons why any of them could be your choice. ■

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BICIKLISTI»KA TURA PO TRAMUNTANI / BICYCLE TOUR OF TRAMUNTANA www.losinia.hr LISTOPAD - STUDENI / OCTOBER − NOVEMBER mjesec masline, divlje ruæe i dunje BERBA MASLINA NA OTOKU LO©INJU / the month of olive, wild rose and quince OLIVE HARVEST ON THE ISLAND OF LO©INJ www.losinj-hotels.com PROSINAC / DECEMBER mjesec agave, bora i smrike OSJETI KAKO LO©INJ MIOMIRI©E ZIMI! / the month of agave, pine and juniper FEEL THE AROMA OF LO©INJ IN WINTER! www.miomirisni-vrt.hr TRADICIJA I POVIJEST OTOKA LO©INJA / TRADITION AND HISTORY OF THE ISLAND OF LO©INJ www.losinj-hotels.com DOGA–ANJA / EVENTS RUJAN / SEPTEMBER mjesec æiæule, groæa, indijske smokve i matara OSJETI KAKO LO©INJ MIOMIRI©E U JESEN! / the month of jujube, grapes, indian fig and samphire FEEL THE AROMA OF LO©INJ IN AUTUMN! www.miomirisni-vrt.hr SVE»ANOST OKUSA I MIRISA / A FESTIVAL OF TASTES AND SCENTS www.apoksiomen.com RUJAN − LISTOPAD / SEPTEMBER − OCTOBER IZLOÆBA AMBROZ HARA»IΔ / EXHIBITION AMBROZ HARA»IΔ www.island-losinj.com

IZRAZI SVOJU VITALNOST / EXPRESS YOUR VITALITY www.losinj-hotels.com

Osjeti…udahni…pogledaj…okusi…dotakni… osluhni… otok vitalnosti / Feel…Breathe in…Take a look…Taste…Touch… Listen…the island of vitality

RUJAN − PROSINAC / SEPTEMBER − DECEMBER DO–I NA LO©INJ I REKET PONESI! / COME TO LO©INJ AND BRING YOUR RACQUET! www.island-losinj.com LISTOPAD / OCTOBER mjesec mirte, planike, πipka i maslaËka LO©INJSKI SURVIVOR / the month of myrtle, strawberry tree, rose hip and dandelion LO©INJ SURVIVOR www.televrin.com

www.kvarner.hr

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HEARTS FOR BRUSSELS Muzeju MIM (Musical Instruments Museum) u Bruxellesu darovane su tamburice u obliku licitarskog srca, u kojima je oblikom i zvukom oæivljen genij hrvatskog sjevera. Tako je licitar, to Ëedo zagorskih brega, od crvenog kruha, ukrasa i malena zrcalca, u kojemu su skriveni kodovi identiteta i ljubaznosti, naπao svoju jedinstvenu glazbenu inaËicu u jednome od najljepπih i najbogatijih svjetskih muzeja glazbe. MIM (Musical Instruments Museum) in Brussels has been donated Licitar heart-shaped tamburicas, which bring to life the genius of the Croatian North through shape and sound. Thus Licitar, with its origins in the hills of Zagorje, made of red dough, decorations and a tiny mirror, which hides within it the codes of identity and kindness, has found its unique musical version in one of the world’s most beautiful and richest museums of music.

Piše/By Marina Tenžera

prelijepom Bruxellesu, koji je danas poznat i kao glavni grad Europe, svatko tko doe, poslom ili privatno, uistinu ima πto vidjeti. Bez obzira na to zatekne li se u starome, povijesnom dijelu grada ili u nekoj poslovnoj Ëetvrti, æeli li razgledati barokni Grand Place, aristokratsku Ëetvrt Sablon, najljepπu gotiËku crkvu u gradu Notre Dame au Sablon, ËeliËni The Atomium, ili neki od mnogih briselskih muzeja (primjerice Cinquantenarie Museum, City of Bruxelles Museum, Erasmus House, Gueuze Museum, Institute of Ancient Art, Museum of Modern Art…), posjetitelj Bruxellesa zacijelo Êe u tome dodatno uæivati, jer o Bruxellesu se veÊ godinama govori i kao o najljubaznijem gradu Europe.

A mi ovaj put preporuËujemo ∑ posjetite MIM (Musical Instruments Museum). Muzej MIM vrlo je æivo kulturno srediπte u kojemu se svaki dan dogaaju razliËita zbivanja. RijeË o doista fascinantome mjestu za glazbu, knjiæevnost i sve moguÊe kulturne prigode. ZagrebaËko Narodno sveuËiliπte Dubrava i etnologinja Lucija FraniÊ Novak darovali su tome muzeju, koji mnogi smatraju najljepπim svjetskim muzejom glazbenih instrumenata, πest jedinstvenih tamburica u obliku licitarskoga srca, rad zagrebaËkoga glazbalara Marijana Novaka. Mr. Joπko Δaleta, etnomuzikolog s Instituta za etnologiju i folkloristiku iz Zagreba, odræao je, prigodom darovnice, predavanje belgijskim struËnjacima o povijesti

Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ, Mario Besprska, arhiva/archive Lucija FraniÊ Novak

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i znaËenju tamburica te istaknuo jedinstvenost Novakova rada. Marijan Novak πkolovao se u rodnim Kriæevcima kod majstora Antona Levaka, kod kojega je nauËio osnove zanata. NauËniËki ispit poloæio je u Zagrebu kod majstora Kereπkenija u Ilici. Od ranoga je djetinjstva pokazivao sklonost prema umjetnosti (svira na violini, slika i drvorezbari), ali i prema tehniËkim znanostima. Sva svoja znanja o statici, ergonomiji i konstrukciji, koja je stekao, praktiËno je primjenjivao pri gradnji glazbala. U æelji za prepoznatljivim oblikovanjem hrvatske tambure, Novak je eksperimentirao s pronalaæenjem prepoznatljiva oblika instrumenta, naπavπi ga u licitarskom srcu.

Njegove akustiËke spoznaje osnovnog formiranja zvuka u gornjem dijelu rezonantne ploËe te dotadaπnji konstrukcijski pomaci prema blago zaobljenom donjem dijelu tijela tambure i ravnom dnu uklopile su se u njegovu viziju srcolika oblika tambure. Po uzoru na svoju osnovnu ideju, napravio je glazbala, od najmanje bisernice do basa. Srcoliki oblik nazire se u vizuri tijela ∑ trupa tambure, intarzije koja okruæuje otvor na rezonantnoj ploËi, i urezanoga srca na glavi instrumenta. Vrijednosti menzura, mjera, usklaene su tako da πtim tih tambura ulazi u standardni πtim (slavonskosrijemski sustav πtim) tambura. Osim navedenih obiljeæja, autor se vodio i naËelom praktiËnosti, jer povrπina njegova

najveÊega glazbala (basa) upola je manja i lakπa od danaπnjih standardnih modela. Uz to, moguÊe je lako skinuti nogu s glazbala, πto omoguÊava jednostavan prijevoz glazbala, na Ëemu su mu zahvalni brojni sviraËi na basu. Za svoju ideju, koja je zaπtiÊena u zagrebaËkom Uredu za inovacije, Novak je dobio srebrnu i bronËanu medalju na manifestaciji Bruxelles Eureka 2002 ∑ 51., svjetskoj izloæbi inovacija i nove tehnologije, odræanoj u Belgiji 2002. godine, i Nagradu grada Zagreba. U Bruxellesu su na tim jedinstvenim glazbalima svirali Goranovci pod vodstvom Marija Pleπea u sastavu: Karlo »uljak, Kreπimir DiviÊ, Tomislav –oreviÊ, Dubravko Fici, Tomislav GlojnariÊ i Fran Hitschfeld.

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Muzej glazbenih instrumenata u Bruxellesu osnovan je 1877. godine iz dvaju golemih zbirki Françoisa-Josepha Fetisa, prvog voditelja bruxelleskoga Kraljevskog konzervatorija i darovnice Rajaha Souridroa Mohun Tagorea kralju Leopoldu II. 1876. godine. Spajanjem dviju zbirki, kojima su se pridruæile tisuÊe akvizicija, darovnica, muzej je izrastao u jedan od najznaËajnijih na svijetu. Prvotno raπtrkane na viπe lokacija u Ëetvrti Zavelu, zbirke su ujedinjene pod krovom moæda i najljepπe secesijske graevine na svijetu ∑ Old England, koju je sagradio Paul Saintenoy 1899. godine, preko puta Kraljevske palaËe. Muzej podjednako posveÊuje paænju starim glazbalima iz poËetaka Ëovjeka, starima viπe tisuÊa godina, kao i inovativnim glazbalima poput tamburica Marijana Novaka. Na osam katova kroz koje prolaze dizala, sa spektakularnom terasom i restoranom vidikovcem, muzej nudi nezaboravan susret s glazbalima iz Azije, Afrike, Europe i obiju Amerika. Multimedijalan postav sa sluπalicama kojima se prikljuËujete sami na gotovo svaki izloæak u muzeju, nudi susret s glazbom cijelog svijeta. Susret sa svjetskim glazbalima, malo je reÊi, Ëudesan je i nezaboravan doæivljaj koji dugo ostaje u duhu. Moæete sluπati zvonjavu renesansnog zvona Pietera Van den Gheyna iz Michelena, obitelji Ëija su djela bila poznata i u ©panjolskoj i ©vedskoj, a zvono iz 1595. osobito je ugodna zvuka zbog posebne izrade. Vrhunska likovnost i glazbeno umijeÊe spojili su se u fantastiËnom glazbalu bianqing, sastavljenome od 16 klapalica na drvenoj konstrukciji, od kojih svaka proizvodi drugaËiji ton s udaraljkom. Postojanje tih glazbala otkriveno je joπ u 3000. godini prije Krista, a bianqingom se koristilo za carske sveËanosti, ali i u konfucijanskim hramovima. Na svakoj klapalici naslikan je predivan kineski zmaj kao simbol carske moÊi, a na postolju glazbala sa svake se strane nalazi mandarinska patka, koje zajedno simboliziraju vjeru i besmrtnu ljubav. Joπ je impresivniji instrument nalik na predivnu skulpturu ∑ indonezijski gamelan, tradicionalno orkestralno glazbalo koje u sebi sadræava dvostruke bubnjeve, gong i ﬂautu. Izloæen primjerak s Jave sluæio je u sveËanim prigodama vjenËanja, roenja, kremiranja i u obredima proËiπÊenja. Ljudi su glazbalu pridavali nadnaravne moÊi i iskazivali mu veliko poπtovanje. Jednostavniji je teponaztli, kojim su se koristili Asteci, a i danas se moæe vidjeti u nekim podruËjima u Meksiku. RijeË je o komadu drva s urezanim otvorom u obliku slova H. Glazbalo je i ovdje narod πtovao kao boæansko biÊe u obliku predmeta, a jezivo je to πto bi ga svirali kada se ustoliËavao nov vladar kojemu su ærtvovane ljudske ærtve Ëija 124

je krv kapala u teponaztli. »eπÊe su ljudi oko njega plesali u krugu, i to oni viπeg ranga bliæe glazbalu od ostalih. Fascinantno je glazbalo knaptand ∑ tip klepetaljke iz 1914. godine iz gradiÊa Dendermodnea, u obliËju vuËjeg kostima (IstoËna Flandrija). Glazbenik je navlaËio kostim vuka ili psa na sebe i klepetao ustima na puËkim sveËanostima, grizuÊi ustima klapalima kape okupljenih. MIM briæno Ëuva i staklenu harmoniku koju je izumio Benjamin Franklin. Kad je, naime, 1761. u Londonu Ëuo koncert na glazbenim Ëaπama punjenima vodom, po kojima je sviraË vukao prst proizvodeÊi zvuk, sam je izumio glazbalo sastavljeno od serije staklenih krugova razliËitih veliËina, spojenih u horizontalnu tubu umenutu u drveni instrument s pedalom. Staklena harmonika postigla je tada veliku popularnost. Na njoj su svirali Franklinova pratilja Marion Davies i slijepa Marianne Kirchgessner koju je, pak, zapazio sam Mozart, posvetivπi joj kvintet za staklenu harmoniku, flautu, obou, violu i Ëelo (KV 617). Ipak, glazbalo je bilo i opasno, izazivajuÊi u pojedinih ljudi neurotiËne poremeÊaje, pa se prestalo proizvoditi. Talijanska udaraljka iz 1900. privlaËi gledatelje oslikanim dnom i rubom, a meu rijetkim je instrumentima kojima su u davnini smjele svirati i æene zbog oblika sita. Na izloæenom primjeru, kojim se pratila tarantella, naslikan je frivolni prizor ∑ sluæavka i mladiÊ pleπu oko stabla, ona dræi kavez otvoren za malu pticu mladosti. Jedno od najneobiËnijh glazbala je i uliËni organon s kazaliπnom scenom, πto prikazuje tri æene koje na ulici lijeËe zubari. Kad je glazbalo sviralo, uzice provuËene kroz usta figura, stvarale su brutalan prizor (zubari su doista na trænicama nudili javnosti svoje usluge). Vrlo su elegntna glazbala dung-chen s Tibeta ∑ tanke i fine trube rabljene u tibetanskim manastirima, koje su se uvijek svirale u paru, velikome i malome za razliËite sveËanosti, a mogle su imati do Ëetiri metra, kao izloæeni

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primjerak. Neki jadni slon nastradao je da bi od njegov kljove nastalo kongoansko glazbalo ∑ rog, koji moæe proizvesti samo jedan ton. Njime se koristilo za sveËanosti, ali i zvuËne signale. Vrlo je zanimljiv i trobon sa sedam zvonastih otvora, koji je trebao usavrπiti glazbu, ali je bio prekompliciran za proizvodnju. I sjeta zelenih bregova Zagorja, tuga i radost Meimurja i Posavine te splitski napjevi puni sunca i na posljetku romantiËni korËulanski napjevi o starim otoËkim ljubavima, koje su na tamburicama izveli glazbenici iz KUD-a Ivana Gorana KovaËiÊa u prigodi darivanja tamburica u obliku licitarskoga srca, odjekivali su u dvoranama tog muzeja πto skrivaju osam tisuÊa glazbala s cijela planeta, od mistiËnih afriËkih bubnjeva iz dubina kongoanskih dæungli, kineskih i javanskih glazbala Ëiji je zvuk bio posveÊen bogovima, egipatskim lirama iz praskozorja civilizacija πto pamte gradnje piramida, ﬂautama i gajdama sa πkotskih brda, jednostavnim puhaljkama i kompliciranim trubama, harmonikama, raskoπno oslikanim baroknim glasovirima i mehaniËkim glazbalima. A Lucija FraniÊ Novak meu onim je rijetkim zanesenjacima koji uspijevaju, svjetskoj recesiji usprkos, neprekidno u svijetu odræavati izloæbe i radionice visoke kvalitete, na kojima se oæivljuje ingeniozono hrvatsko puËko 126

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majstorstvo. Tako je u Bruxellesu, gradu koji je danas srediπte Europe, veÊ drugi put predstavljena hrvatska kultura, poπto su simbolu grada Bruxellesa manekenu Pisu, Narodno sveuËiliπte Dubrava i etnologinja Lucija FraniÊ Novak darovali πokaËku noπnju i odræali izloæbu Æensko pismo u belgijskome Muzeju Ëipkarstva, predstavivπi tekstilne rukotvorine hrvatskih tkalja. Kulturna borba za identitete malih naroda osobito se oËituje u oæivljavanju tisuÊljetnih kodova identiteta i fenomenima tradicijskoga, koje su, uostalom, u svoje opuse upisivali i najveÊi svjetski slikari, od Miròa koji je rabio katalonske motive u svome apstraktnom univerzumu, do Picassa, koji je promijenio jezik slikarstva, razorio ljudsko tijelo na platnu i prikazao svoju divljaËku i demonsku epohu rabeÊi upravo afriËku puËku skulpturu. Stoga, tko nije vidio licitare, paπku ili lepoglavsku Ëipku, stoljetne vezove marnih æena ili raskoπne slavonske crne prekrivaËe s motivima plodnosti u jarkim bojama, doista je propustio velike vizualne doæivljaje. n russels has had a reputation for many years as being the friendliest city in Europe. Everyone who comes to the beautiful city of Brussels, either on business or for pleasure, has many sites to see,

either in the ancient, historical part of the city or in the business quarter. A visitor of Brussels will delight in seeing a Baroque masterpiece such as the Grand Place, the aristocratic quarter of Sablon, Notre Dame du Sablon (the Church of our Lady of Sablon), the most beautiful Gothic church in the city, the Atomium, a monument made entirely of steel, or any of Brussels’ museums (i.e. the Cinquantenarie Museum, the City of Brussels Museum, Erasmus House, the Gueuze Museum, the Institute of Ancient Art, or the Museum of Modern Art…). This time, we recommend visiting the MIM (Musical Instruments Museum), a very vibrant cultural centre. This fascinating venue lends itself to musical, literary and various other culture-related events. Dubrava Public University and ethnologist Lucija FraniÊ Novak have donated six unique Licitar heart-shaped tamburicas to this museum, which many believe to be the world’s most beautiful museum of musical instruments. The instruments were manufactured by Marijan Novak, a musical instrument maker from Zagreb. During the donation presentation ceremony, Mr. Joπko Δaleta, an ethnomusicologist afﬁliated with the Institute for Ethnology and Folklore in Zagreb, delivered a lecture to an audience of Belgian experts. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Glazbala u obliku licitarskog srca, rad Marijana Novaka iz Zagreba Licitar heart-shaped musical instruments manufactured by Marijan Novak from Zagreb

He spoke about the history and signiﬁcance of the tamburica instruments and highlighted the originality of master Novak’s work. Marijan Novak started his education in his native Kriæevci with Master Anton Levak as his tutor. Having learned the ABC’s of his future craft, he passed the trade exam in Zagreb with Master Kereπkeni on Ilica Street. Since his early childhood, he has displayed a love of the arts (playing the violin, painting and wood carving), 128

as well as a propensity for technical sciences. The notions of statics, ergonomics and construction have all been put to a very practical use in the making of his instruments. Motivated by a desire to come up with a quintessential form of the Croatian tamburica, Novak did a lot of experimentation until he ﬁnally arrived at a design in the shape of a Licitar heart. In the process, he arrived at notions which indicated that the principal sound was formed in

the upper part of the resonant top plate. Minor improvements introduced up to that point in terms of the construction of the instrument, such as a gently curved lower part of the tamburica body and a flat bottom, fitted perfectly within his own vision of a heart-shaped tamburica form. Following his main idea, he manufactured a whole range of tamburicas − from the bisernica to the bas. The heartshaped form is reflected in the basic outline

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of the instrument − the tamburica body, in the inlays which surround the opening in the resonant top plate, and in the heart carved in the head of the instrument. The tuning frequency values have been harmonized so that the tune of these tamburicas falls within the standard tamburica tune (the SlavonianSrijem tuning system). Novak also followed the principle of practicality. The surface of his biggest instrument (bas) is half the size and weight of standard models. Moreover, it is quite easy to detach the foot from the body of the instrument, thus making it much simpler to handle and transport, a fact greatly appreciated by bas players. Novak’s design has been registered with the Zagrebbased Innovations Office. Novak received silver and bronze medals at the Brussels Eureka 2002 − the 51st International Exhibition of Innovation, Research and New Technology, which was held in Belgium in 2002, as well as a City of Zagreb award. In Brussels, these unique instruments were played by members of the Goranovci ensemble, led by Mario Pleπe: Karlo »uljak, Kreπimir DiviÊ, Tomislav –oreviÊ, Dubravko Fici, Tomislav GlojnariÊ and Fran Hitschfeld. The MIM - Brussels Musical Instruments Museum - was founded in 1877 when two huge collections of instruments were joined together. One belonged to the celebrated Belgian musicologist François-Joseph Fétis, the first director of the Royal Conservatorium in Brussels; the other was offered to King Leopold II in 1876 by Rajah Sourindro Mohun Tagore. As the two collections merged, and then subsequently expanded owing to thousands of acquisitions and donations, the museum developed into one of the most important institutions of its kind in the world. The museum collection, which was originally scattered across several locations in the Zavel neighbourhood, finally found its permanent home under the roof of what must be one of the most beautiful Art Nouveau buildings in

the world − the former Old England building designed in 1899 by Paul Saintenoy and built opposite the Royal Palace. The museum pays an equal degree of attention to primitive wooden instruments dating back to the origins of humankind as it does to innovative instruments such as Marijan Novak’s tamburicas. On its eight floors, serviced by elevators, with a spectacular terrace and a restaurant with a view, the museum offers an unforgettable encounter with musical instruments from Asia, Africa, Europe and both Americas. An audio guide allows visitors to plug in at nearly any exhibit and explore the wealth of music from all over the world at their own pace. Encountering musical instruments from all over the world is a marvellous and unforgettable experience. For example, you can hear the chimes of Master Van den Gheyn’s renaissance bell. Born in Mechelen to a family whose works made their name resound from Spain to Sweden, he made a bell in 1595 whose remarkably pleasing sound was achieved by the application of a special manufacturing technique. These ultimate artistic and music-making skills are most remarkably united in a fantastic musical instrument, the bianqing. Each of its 16 chimes, hung in a wooden frame, produces a different sound when struck with a mallet. The instrument has existed in China since 3000 B.C. It was used during imperial ceremonies as well as in Confucian temples. Every chime carries a drawing of a beautiful Chinese dragon as a symbol of imperial power. The wooden frame is flanked by a pair of Mandarin ducks which together symbolize faith and eternal love. An even more impressive sight is the splendidly statuesque Indonesian gamelan, a traditional set of instruments consisting of double drums, a gong and a flute. The one on display comes from Java, where it was used during festive and ceremonious occasions such as weddings, births, cremations and purification rituals. People believed in its supernatural powers and treated it with great reverence. A striking contrast is the simple teponaztli, an instrument once used by the Aztecs and still found in parts of Mexico. The teponaztli is a piece of wood with slits cut in the shape of the letter H. The locals venerated it as a divine creature in the shape of an object. A somewhat eerie image puts the instrument in the centre of crowning ceremonies when the blood of sacrificial victims was poured into the teponaztli. More frequently, people would dance around it in circles, with higher-ranking individuals closer to the instrument than the others. Another fascinating implement is the knaptand − a wolf-like percussion instrument CROATIA AIRLINES

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invented in 1914 in the town of tip Dendermodne in East Flanders. It is a mask worn by a musician who would put it on during popular festivities and produce sounds by clacking his jaws. Using the clappers in his mouth, he would bite the caps of the other participants in the festivity. MIM takes pride in being the caring custodian of a glass harmonica invented by none other than Benjamin Franklin! Having attended a concert in 1761, in London, during which the musician slid his fingers along water-filled glasses to produce music, he decided to design a similar instrument. However, instead of glasses, he used a succession of glass bowls fitted one inside the other and mounted horizontally on a spindle. The spindle was turned by means of a simple foot pedal. His glass harmonica soon gained huge popularity. It was played by his companion Marion Davies and by blind Marianne Kirchgessner. The latter was spotted by none other than Mozart, who even dedicated a composition to her, a quintet for the glass harmonica, flute, oboe and cello (K 617). Sadly, the instrument was found to be a health-risk: the neurological disturbances it caused in some people brought its manufacture to an abrupt end. The painted bottom and sides of an Italian percussion instrument dating back to the 1900s inevitably attracts the attention of museum visitors. Owing to its shape, the instrument was among the rare ones that even women were allowed to play in the past. The specimen on display, once used to accompany tarantella dancing, depicts a frivolous scene with a lady servant and a young man dancing around a tree. She is holding a cage open to let in the little bird of youth. One of the most peculiar instruments is a street organ depicting a theatrical scene in which three women are being treated by dentists in the middle of a busy thoroughfare. In its heyday, when the instrument was actually played, the strings attached to the fi gures would animate the gruesome and quite true-to-life scene (there was a time when dentists offered their services to the public in marketplaces). A very elegant musical instrument is the Tibetan dung-chen, a slender and eye-pleasing trumpet used in Tibetan monasteries where they were always played in big or small pairs in various festivities. It could be up to four metres long, just like the exhibit on display. Some poor elephant had to be sacrificed so that the famous Congolese musical instrument - a hunting horn - could be made out of its tusk. The horn, which can produce only 130

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the work of some of the greatest painters: Miró used Catalan motifs in his depictions of an abstract universe, while Picasso sought inspiration in primitive African sculptures when changing the language of modern painting by deconstructing the human body on canvass and exposing the bestiality of a demonological era. Those who have not seen the lacework of Pag or Lepoglava, the Licitars, the centuriesold needlework produced by diligent women, or the sumptuous black bedspreads from Slavonia featuring brightly-coloured motifs of fecundity, have really missed some great visual experiences. n one tone, was used in festivities as well as to produce sound signals. Another interesting exhibit is a trombone with seven bell-shaped openings which was supposed to improve musical performances, but it was simply too complicated to mass-produce. The melancholy of the green hills of Zagorje, the sorrows and joys of Meimurje and Posavina, arias of the sunshine city of Split, and, last but not least, romantic songs from KorËula dedicated to old island romances, were all played by the musicians of the Ivan Goran KovaËiÊ ensemble on Novak’s tamburicas. The sounds of Croatian music resounded through the halls whose walls house as many as eight thousand musical instruments from all over the globe, including mystical African drums from the depths of the Congolese jungle, Chinese and Javanese instruments that served to worship gods, Egyptian liras dating back to the very dawn of a civilization that constructed the pyramids, flutes and bagpipes from the rugged hills of Scotland, simple wind instruments and complicated trumpets, harmonicas, lavishly decorated baroque clavichords and mechanical musical instruments. And Lucija FraniÊ Novak is one of those rare enthusiasts who selflessly brave the threat of global recession in an attempt to revive and preserve the ingeniousness of this Croatian popular craft. Thus, in Brussels, today’s capital of Europe, the Croatian culture has been presented for the second time, as Dubrava Public University and ethnologist Lucija FraniÊ Novak have already donated a Slavonian national costume to the Manneken Pis, a symbol of the City of Brussels, and have organized an exhibition entitled Écriture féminine (literally Women’s Writing) in the Belgian lace Museum to showcase textiles handcrafted by Croatian female weavers. The struggle of small nations to protect their cultural distinctiveness is particularly reflected in their efforts to revive their traditional codes of identity. This informed CROATIA AIRLINES

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INOVACIJE INNOVATIONS ■

Najmanji je i najlakπi, njime se moæe raditi na skelama i viseÊim platformama, moæe se uvuÊi u zatvoren i skuËeni prostor bez prisutnosti operatera, gdje bi rad ljudi bio nemoguÊ, teæak i opasan. Jednostavan je za transport, ide uza stube, prolazi kroz vrata, ulazi u tunele i cjevovode... To su neke od odlika R Jet 062, prvoga hrvat-

Piše/By Davorka Vukov ColiÊ

skog robota za hidrodinamiËku

Fotograﬁje/Photos Inteco arhiva/archive

obradu metalnih i betonskih povrπina.

Small and light, it can work on scaffolding and hanging platforms. It can operate in enclosed and narrow spaces, without the presence of an operator, where it would be impossible, hard or dangerous for people to work in. It is easy to transport. It climbs stairs and passes through doors, tunnels and pipelines. These are some of the characteristics of R Jet 062, the ﬁrst Croatian robot for the hydrodynamic treatment of metal and concrete surfaces.

odinu i neπto nakon katastrofalnog potresa i tsunamija u Zemlji IzlazeÊeg Sunca, Japanci izrauju projekt sanacije razruπene Fukuπime. Njime æele povezati sve danas raspoloæive tehnologije u svijetu i ponuditi ih svojim tvrtkama koje Êe sljedeÊih tridesetak godina sanirati uniπtene atomske centrale. Za to im je potrebna specijalna oprema, no Japanci æele iskoristiti ono πto veÊ postoji na træiπtu, pa su raspisali meunarodni natjeËaj. Poziv za zajedniËki nastup zagrebaËkom Intecu, tvrtki za projektiranje, organiziranje i provoenje specijalnih radova u graditeljstvu, doπao je iz jednoga francuskog instituta. − Vjerujem da smo danas jedni od rijetkih u svijetu, koji mogu ponuditi kvalitetno rjeπenje za uklanjanje radioaktivnog otpada koriπtenjem naπega daljinski voenog robota za hidrodinamiËku obradu metalnih i betonskih povrπina − kaæe Borislav BalaÊ, direktor Inteca. On Japancima nudi R Jet 062, prvoga hrvatskog robota, nastalog na temelju vlastitih iskustava, znanja i inventivnosti zaposlenika i vanjskih suradnika te privatne tvrtke. Inteco (skraÊenica od Inæenjering Tehnoloπki Consulting) veÊ dvadeset drugu godinu projektira, organizira i izvodi specijalistiËke radove na podruËju niskogradnje i visokogradnje, na objektima u gradnji, ali najËeπÊe na onima u sanaciji. Kako je rijeË o radovima u posebnim okolnostima, svaki

novi posao traæi posebnu opremu i alate, koje sami projektiraju i izrauju, vlastitim snagama, ali i u suradnji s vanjskim partnerima, razliËitim proizvoaËima, dobavljaËima te znanstvenim ustanovama. Nakon steËenoga iskustva, kaæe direktor BalaÊ, prije koje godine pala im je na um zamisao da neπto od toga izrade i kao træiπni model. Tako je nastao brend Inteco Robotics, a u njegovu sklopu serija robota R Jet 06X, jedinstveni proizvod na svjetskom træiπtu. Samo oni koji se bave tim poslom znaju πto znaËe prednosti robota koji radi na elektriËni pogon, modularan je, pa mu se dimenzije poput lego kocki mogu oblikovati po potrebi, Ëime se πtedi na cijeni stroja i energiji. Namijenjen je izvoenju radova na objektima u visokogradnji i niskogradnji (ceste, mostovi, tuneli, zgrade i dr.), na hidrotehniËkim objektima (cjevovodi i tuneli, brane, kanali i sl.), u industriji i brodogradnji. Radi u kombinaciji s visokotlaËnim vodenim crpkama snage do 360 kW i tlakom do 3000 bara te alatima koji mu omoguÊuju povrπinsku obradu betona i metala, razne podvodne obrade, dubinsku obradu betona i uklanjanje njegovih slojeva, kao i uklanjanje naslaga i slojeva materijala s razliËitih povrπina koje mogu biti ravne, zakrivljene ili cilindriËne. Najmanji je i najlakπi (R Jet-061), samo 350 kilograma u odnosu na konkurentni robot jednoga CROATIA AIRLINES

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Look out this aircraft’s windows to see our students’ limits. The sky’s the limit. You’ve heard this phrase countless times. But it rings true for students of the Zagreb School of Economics and Management, Croatia’s leading business school. Every facet of our undergraduate and graduate business programs is designed to help them succeed, from our immense international exchange program, to our career counseling services. The result? Business graduates with possibilities as wide and welcoming as the horizon from your window seat.

Dedicated to quality zsem is a member of aacsb International the Association to Advance Collegiate Schools of Bussiness | www.aacsb.edu

πvedskog proizvoaËa teæak cijelu tonu, πto znaËi da se njime moæe raditi na skelama i viseÊim platformama, moæe se uvuÊi u zatvoren i skuËeni prostor bez prisustnosti operatera, gdje bi rad ljudi bio nemoguÊ, teæak, opasan, ili u zagaenim sredinama poput one u Fukuπimi. Jednostavan je za transport, ide uza stube, prolazi kroz vrata, ulazi u tunele i cjevovode. Moæe se opremiti dodatnim videosustavom, kojim se upravlja daljinski s konzole, na Ëijem se ekranu prati njegovo kretanje... Kvalitetu robota R Jet 062 brzo je prepoznala Hrvatska gospodarska komora, dodijelivπi Borislavu BalaÊu i njegovu istraæivaËkom timu, na Ëelu sa Stjepanom FlegariÊem, nagradu Zlatna kuna za inovacije 2012. Lani je Inteco na Devetoj meunarodnoj izloæbi inovacija osvojio meunarodnu nagradu ARCA 2011. Osvojio je i Teslino srebrno jaje, nagradu za najuspjeπniji i najinovativniji hrvatski tehnoloπki proizvod, koju je prije πest godina pokrenuo Ëasopis VIDI u suradnji s Institutom Ruera BoπkoviÊa. PoduzeÊe je dobilo i posebno priznanje za inovaciju Prvog instituta pronalazaËa i istraæivaËa (The First Institute Inventors and Researchers) Islamske Republike Iran. Sve u svemu, nudeÊi pomoÊ malim i srednjim tvrtkama, Poslovno-inovacijski centar Hrvatske BICRO (Business-Inovation Center Croatia) pokazao je da zna odabrati najbolje od najboljih, podupiruÊi razvoj robota R Jet 062 s 900.000 kuna u sklopu programa IRCRO. A robot R Jet 062 jedan je od primjera onoga zbog Ëega je prije 14 godina Vlada Republike Hrvatske osnovala BICRO kao srediπnju ustanovu za razvoj i unapreenje inovacijskoga i tehnologijskog sustava s namjerom da potpomogne tehnoloπki razvoj u zemlji. BICRO je postao partner inovatorima i poduzetnicima u pretvaranju ideje u invenciju, invencije u proizvod, proizvoda u bussines, bussinesa u rast, a IRCRO programom podupiru suradnju malih poduzeÊa kao πto je Inteco i znanstvenoistraæivaËkih institucija. I doista, u kreiranju R Jet 062, uz vlastite snage tvrtke, sudjelovali su i struËnjaci sa zagrebaËkog Fakulteta elektrotehnike i raËunarstva, poput prof. Zdenka KovaËiÊa. Inæenjer strojarstva Borislav BalaÊ oduvijek je, kako sam kaæe, gajio ljubav prema novome i izazovnome. MikroraËunalima se poËeo baviti u njihovo praskozorje i sklopio jedno od prvih u nas, istodobno kad su se pojavila prva na FER-u. Osamdesetih je naËinio projekt informatizacije cijele tadaπnje tvrtke GOI, u vrijeme kada su to imale samo najveÊe graevinske tvrtke kao πto su Tempo, Industrogradnja i dr. VeÊina u poduzeÊu joπ nije ni znala πto su to raËunala, ali osjetili su da BalaÊ sa svojom ekipom priprema buduÊnost. Uz neke nadopune, tim se sustavom i danas sluæe neki privrednici. U to se doba povezao s kolegom tehnologom, kojega je takoer zanimala informatika, a ovaj je zainteresirao BalaÊa za jedan novi izolacijski materijal, te su ga zajedniËki patentirali, proizvodili i prodavali preko matiËne tvrtke GOI, pod nazivom goisal. Iz toga se 1998. rodila tvrtka MTG (suvremene tehnologije graenja) s idejom o

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proizvodnji specijalnih graevinskih materijala i izvoenju graevinskih radova, u kojoj je BalaÊ bio jedan od osnivaËa i prvi direktor, ali nakon dvije godine osnovao je svoj Inteco s namjerom da se bavi samo izvedbom specijalnih radova. I tako je poËelo. Uslijedili su radovi u Dubrovniku, Rogaπkoj Slatini, Zagrebu, Rovinju, »akovcu, Ozlju, Petrinji, cijeloj Hrvatskoj, pa i izvan nje. Neki su poslovi trajali i godinu i pol. Obnova Revelina, hermetizacija krova velike dvorane zagrebaËkog Doma sportova, priprema za antikorozivnu zaπtitu broda Molat i Novigrad, sanacija hidroizolacije krovova tvorniËke hale Gredelja u Zagrebu, sanacija betona HE Vinodol, HE Varaædina, HE »akovca, HE PeruÊa, istarskog vijadukta Gorenja Vas, brane BOTONEGA, hidroizolacija garaæe na zagrebaËkome Langovom trgu, sanacija betonskih povrπina i spojnica na stajanki i rulnoj stazi ZraËne luke Zagreb... to su tek nasumce spomenuti neki od viπe nego 400 do sada realiziranih projekata, a izraeno je i viπe od 100 tehniËkih rjeπenja i projekata. Prvi su u Hrvatskoj primijenili metodu mehaniËkog priËvrπÊivanja krovne izolacije na radioniËkim halama zagrebaËke tvrtke ZEP, prvi primijenili metodu ojaËanja konstrukcije karbonskim lamelama na AB ploËama zgrade jednoga zagrebaËkog djeËjeg vrtiÊa, prvi primijenili najnoviju nanotehnologiju sanacije betona reparaturnim mortovima Emaco Nanocrete, neposredno nakon poËetka njihove proizvodnje u EU u poËetku 2006. godine. Mogu obraivati i beton pod vodom. A sve to s danas 18 zaposlenih, meu kojima se smanjio broj izvoaËkoga, a poveÊao broj inæenjerskog kadra. − U toku izvoenja radova imali smo i specijalne zahtjeve, za koje je trebala specijalna oprema. RadeÊi na sanaciji betona u zgradi rovinjskog hotela Eden, spoznali smo da nam je za kvalitetnu izvedbu radova hidrodinamiËke obrade betona potrebna i specijalna oprema − robot! SpeciﬁËne zahtjeve zatim smo imali i pri izvoenju radova na hali Eurolineova Mercedesova servisa u Kovinskoj ulici. Tamo smo doπli zbog radova na krovu, ali Ëuli smo da odgovorni muku muËe s rupama za servisiranje autobusa, betoniranih suviπe plitko, tako da u njih nije mogla stati potrebna oprema. Trebalo je skinuti Ëetiri centimetra povrπine betona, no rupe su bile tako uske da u njih nije mogao stati nikakav stroj, niti se tko æelio time pozabaviti. Rekao sam: za sedam dana napravit Êemo robota koji Êe se u njih uvuÊi, a sljedeÊih sedam robot Êe obaviti posao − sjeÊa se direktor BalaÊ. Tako je i bilo. S polovnim motorima i ostalim dijelovima napravili su prvi robot u bravarskoj varijanti, a poslije ga, za svaki sliËan sljedeÊi posao, nadograivali i preureivali. − Bio je to tipiËan primjer kako moæete pro-

dati znanje. Svaki naπ posao traæi neka nova rjeπenja, pa su naπi zaposlenici obuËeni za mnogo toga − kaæe direktor BalaÊ. Jedan od takvih poslova trebao je biti sanacija betona na Petrokemijinu silosu u Kutini, za πto je trebalo napraviti lakoga pokretljivog robota, a trebalo se raditi na viseÊoj platformi na visini od 50 metara. Napravljen je mali, lagani R Jet 061. Od posla, na æalost, nije bilo niπta, ali zato su u Intecu odluËili razviti robota, uz pomoÊ vanjskih suradnika, i ponuditi ga na træiπtu. Ako mogu prodavati usluge, zaπto ne bi prodavali i strojeve kao plod vlastitog iskustva i znanja? U sve se zatim ukljuËio i BICRO, a danas je Inteco ogledni primjer takve uspjeπne suradnje, zbog Ëega ih je samo delegacija Svjetske banke za obnovu i razvoj posjetila veÊ dvaput. Kako je za takav proizvod domaÊe træiπte vrlo skuËeno, robot ima pravu buduÊnost na svjetskom træiπtu, πto za Inteco znaËi mnoga predstavljanja, obilazak sajmova, struËnih kongresa, susreta i bezbroj kontakata s Dancima, ©vicarcima, Nijemcima, Francuzima, Maarima, Japancima i drugima. Inteco je tako tvrtka koja je pri svakom poslu na nekome novom poËetku. n little over a year after the catastrophic earthquake and tsunami in the country of the rising sun, the Japanese are preparing a project for repairing the damaged Fukushima nuclear power plant. They want to combine all the technologies currently available in the world and offer them to the Japanese companies that will work on repairing the nuclear plant over the next thirty years. They need special equipment for that, but they want to use what is already available on the market, so they opened an international tender. Inteco, a Zagreb-located company for project design, organisation and operation of special works in the construction industry, received an invitation from a French institute to submit a joint tender. Borislav BalaÊ, director of Inteco, says: ∑ I believe we are today one of the few companies in the world that can offer a high quality solution for removing radioactive waste by using our remotely operated robot for the hydrodynamic treatment of metal and concrete surfaces. He has offered Inteco’s R Jet 062, the ﬁrst Croatian robot, to the Japanese. The robot was created by the experience, knowledge and innovativeness of the employees and subcontractors of Inteco (an acronym for Inæenjering i Tehnoloπki Consulting − Engineering and Technological Consulting). Inteco has been operating in the ﬁeld of project design, organisation and operation of specialist works in the area of civil engineering and building construction for twenty two years. It works on buildings under construction and

especially on building repair. Since such works are carried out in special circumstances, each new assignment requires special equipment and tools which are designed and produced both in-house and in cooperation with various business partners, producers, suppliers and scientific institutions. BalaÊ says that they decided a few years ago to make use of their know-how to create their own products for the market. That was how the Inteco Robotics brand was created, including a series of R Jet 06X robots, a unique product on the global market. Only those involved in this business are aware of the advantages of robots that are run on electricity and are modular, so that their dimension can change according to need, as with Lego bricks, thus saving costs and energy. The robot is created for use in building construction and in civil engineering works (roads, bridges, tunnels etc.), on hydrotechnical constructions (pipelines, tunnels, dams, channels etc.), and in industry and shipbuilding. It works in combination with a high-pressure water pump of 360 kW input power and 3000 bar operating pressure and uses various tools that enable the following type of treatment: surface treatment of metal and concrete, various underwater treatments, in-depth treatment of concrete and removal of concrete layers, and removal of debris and layers of materials from various surfaces, whether ﬂat, curved or cylindrical. It is smaller and lighter (R Jet-061) than that of the competition: it weighs only 350 kilograms, while the robot of a Swedish producer weighs as much as a ton. This means it can work on scaffolding and hanging platforms, and it can crawl into enclosed and narrow spaces, without the presence of an operator, where it would be impossible, hard or dangerous for people to work in, or in contaminated environments such as that in Fukushima. It is easy to transport, it climbs stairs, and it passes through doors, tunnels and pipelines. It can be equipped with a video system which is remotely operated from a console and its movements are monitored on the screen. The quality of R Jet 062 robot was soon recognised by the Croatian Chamber of Economy, which awarded BalaÊ and his research team, led by Stjepan FlegariÊ, the Golden Kuna for Innovations in 2012. Inteco won the ARCA 2011 international award at last year’s Ninth International Exhibition of Innovations. It also won the Nikola Tesla Silver Egg Award for the most successful and most innovative Croatian technological product, an award introduced six years ago by VIDI magazine in cooperation with the Ruer BoπkoviÊ Institute. Inteco also received special acknowledgement for innoCROATIA AIRLINES

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vation from the First Institute of Inventors and Researchers of the Islamic Republic of Iran. BICRO (Business Innovation Centre of Croatia) provided 900,000 kunas for the development of the R Jet 062 robot as part of its IRCRO program of support for small and mediumsized companies. The R Jet 062 robot is an example of the type of project that encouraged the Croatian Government to establish BICRO in the first place. BICRO, founded in 1998, is a central institution for supporting innovation and technology advancement in Croatia. It is a partner to innovators and entrepreneurs by assisting them in converting their ideas into inventions, inventions into products, and products into businesses, and supporting the growth of newly-created businesses. BICRO’s IRCRO program supports cooperation between small companies, such as Inteco, and science and research institutions; R Jet 062 was created through cooperation between Inteco and experts from the Faculty of Electrical Engineering and Computing in Zagreb, such as Professor Zdenko KovaËiÊ. Borislav BalaÊ, a mechanical engineer, says he has always been attracted to the new and challenging. He started working on microcomputers at their very beginnings and created one of the first in Croatia, at the same time when the first microcomputers appeared at the Faculty of Electrical Engineering and Computing. In the eighties, he created an IT project for the GOI company at a time when only the largest construction companies, such as Tempo and Industrogradnja, had such a system. The majority of people in GOI did not even know what a computer was, but they felt that BalaÊ and his team were preparing the grounds for the future; the system, with some additions, is still used by several businesses. BalaÊ then teamed up with a colleague who was also interested in IT

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and who got him interested in a new insulation material. They jointly patented, produced and marketed this material through GOI, under the name of goisal. This led to the establishment of the MTG (modern construction technologies) company in 1998, with the idea of producing special construction materials and carrying out construction works. BalaÊ was a founder and the first director of the company, but two years later he established his own business, Inteco, and decided to focus on special construction works. That was how it started. Soon after that, the company carried out work throughout Croatia − in Dubrovnik, Rogaπka Slatina, Zagreb, Rovinj, »akovec, Ozalj and Petrinja ∑ and abroad. Some jobs lasted as long as a year and a half. The list of projects include: the reconstruction of Revelin; the hermetisation of the roof of the great hall of Dom sportova, Zagreb’s indoor sports arena; preparation for anticorrosive protection of the Molat and Novigrad ships; repair of the roof hydroinsulation at the production facility of the Gredelj factory in Zagreb; repair of concrete surfaces in hydroelectric power plants (HE Vinodol, HE Varaædin, HE »akovec, HE PeruÊa), the Gorenja Vas viaduct in Istria, and the Botonega Dam; hydroinsulation of the public garage on Langov Trg in Zagreb; repair of the concrete surfaces and connections on the apron and taxiways at Zagreb Airport. The total number of completed projects exceeds 400, and more than 100 technical solutions and project designs have been developed. Inteco was the first company in Croatia to apply the mechanical fixing of roof insulation (on the ZEP workshop in Zagreb), the first to implement the system of reinforcement with carbon lamels on reinforced concrete slabs (a kindergarten in Zagreb), and the first to apply the newest

nanotechnology for the repair of concrete with Emaco Nanocrete repair mortars, immediately after the beginning of their production in the EU at the beginning of 2006. Inteco can even process concrete under water. The company still has eighteen employees, having reduced the number of construction staff and increased the number of engineers. BalaÊ recalls: − While carrying out the jobs, we were faced with special requirements and we needed special equipment. When repairing concrete in the Eden hotel in Rovinj, we realised that the high quality hydrodynamic treatment of concrete required special equipment ∑ a robot! There were also specific requirements for the works on the Euroline Mercedes repair shop in Kovinska Street. We started with repairing the roof, but we heard they were having problems with the service pits for buses because they were too shallow and the necessary equipment could not be placed there. Four centimetres of concrete layer needed removing, but the pits were so narrow that no machine could be used, and no one wanted to deal with that. I told them: we need one week to make a robot that will fit into the pits, and one week for the robot to do the job. And that is exactly what happened. With second-hand engines and parts, they produced their first robot, which they went on to upgrade and adapt for similar jobs. − It was a typical example of how to sell knowledge. Each job requires new solutions, and our employees are trained to be versatile, says BalaÊ. One such job should have been the repair of concrete in the Petrokemija silos in Kutina. In order to carry out the job, they needed to create a light and mobile robot that would operate on a 50-metre-high platform. They made the small and light R Jet 061. Unfortunately, the job never came through, but Inteco decided to develop the robot with the assistance of business partners and to start marketing it. If you can sell services, why not sell machines that result from your experience and know-how? BICRO then joined the project, and today Inteco is an example of successful cooperation, which is why a delegation of the World Bank for Reconstruction and Development has visited them twice. Since the domestic market is rather small for such a product, the robot’s future is on the global market, which for Inteco means many presentations, fairs, congresses, meetings and countless contacts with people from countries like Denmark, Switzerland, Germany, France, Hungary and Japan. Inteco is a company that faces a new challenge with each job. n

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Discover Croatia! In the kingdom of delicacies and wines The cooking school of Croatian food and wines in Zagreb; visiting rural homesteads at Višnjica and Baranja, and Kopački rit Nature Park, sightseeing tour of Ilok and Vukovar; visiting the wine cellars and vineyards of Belje and Iločki podrumi (Ilok wine cellars) with wine tasting.

Along the wine routes of the Croatian coast and the islands Visiting the best wineries of the Croatian islands and coastal areas such as Vinoplod, Bartulović and Agrolaguna; learning about wine production with tasting; visiting beautiful towns such as Poreč, Zadar, Šibenik and Dubrovnik.

T: +385 20 442 222 F: +385 20 411 100 call.centre@atlas.hr www.atlas-croatia.com 136_Roboti.indd 137

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Pravi zamaπnjak industrijskom dizajnu u Hrvatskoj dala je Kvadra Design u 2011. godini. Samo sedam mjeseci nakon poËetka proizvodnje, Kvadra Design poËela je s izvozom u Europu i Aziju, a sofa Revolve osvojila je nagradu Red Dot. Na temelju toga prvoga hrvatskoga dizajn branda ojastuËenog namjeπtaja, u Hrvatskoj se rodila sinergija izmeu industrije, dizajna i graana. Dizajnirane sofe i naslonjaËi iz Kvadre postali su svojevrsnim ambasadorima suvremenoga hrvatskog proizvoda, po kojima se zemlju, uz njezine prirodne ljepote i sportske uspjeπnice ∑ poËinje prepoznavati u svijetu. Kvadra Design took off with verve in 2011 from the Croatian industrial design runway ∑ only 7 months into production, exporting began to Europe and Asia, and the Revolve sofa won the Red Dot Award. It is owing to this ﬁrst Croatian design brand of upholstered furniture that synergy between the industry, design and people has been conceived. Kvadra Design’s sofas and armchairs have come to act as ambassadors of the contemporary Croatian product, for which the country ∑ together with its natural wonders and sporting achievements ∑ is beginning to be recognised around the world.

okretaË razvoja poslovni je lider Tomislav KnezoviÊ, koji je svoje iskustvo u proizvodnji stekao u industriji madraca, dovevπi svoju prvu tvrtku Perfecta do razine jednoga od najveÊih hrvatskih brandova specijaliziranih za zdravo spavanje. Uz osnovni program madraca, podnica i jastuka, Perfectinu je kolekciju nadogradio i kolekcijom kreveta, meu kojima je Hilton, najpopularniji i najprodavaniji unatrag godine dana. Iako u vrhu træiπta, Perfecta, koja je danas sastavni dio πvedske grupacije Hilding Anders − europskog lidera u proizvodnji madraca i kreveta - nakon 20 godina uspjeπnog djelovanja takoer se okreÊe dizajnu. U tu su svrhu za dizajn svoga najnovijeg proizvoda, kreveta Tilt, angaæirali meunarodno etablirani dizajn tim Numen/ ForUse. 138

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Usavrπeno iskustvo u razvoju kvalitetnih madraca kao osnove za ugodno i zdravo spavanje, KnezoviÊ je prenio na srodnu industriju ojastuËenog namjeπtaja utemeljivπi brand Kvadra Design − oliËenje njegove strasti za dizajnom i kvalitetom u proizvodnji. Potvrda ulaganju i usmjerenju na dizajn stigla je veÊ na prvoj meunarodnoj prezentaciji na IMM Cologne ove godine, nastupu na kojemu je prvu kolekciju garnitura prepoznala struka i publika po kvaliteti i inovativnom dizajnu, poËevπi s njihovim izvozom u zemlje Europe i Azije. Nedugo nakon nastupa u Kölnu, æiri meunarodne nagrade za dizajn − Red Dot Award, dodijelio je soﬁ Revolve (dizajn: Numen/ForUse + BratoviÊ&Borovnjak) nagradu za produkt dizajn u 2012. godini. Tako je sofa Revolve postala prvim proizvodom iz hrvatske industrije namjeπtaja nagraen tom etabliranom markicom za visoki standard dizajna i proizvodnje. Povrh toga, ona je stekla status ikone suvremenoga hrvatskog dizajna, ali i mnogo poklonika meu graanima te, i uz ostale modele iz kolekcije, postala sastavnim dijelom njihove kulture æivljenja. Popularnost Kvadrinih proizvoda potvruje i sve viπe etabliranih tvrtki koje svoje poslovne prostore opremaju ojastuËenim namjeπtajem iz kolekcije Kvadra Designa. Tako je ona zakoraËila i u segment opremanja javnih objekata pa je zbog sveukupne integracije dizajna u razvoj, proizvodnju i træiπnu aﬁrmaciju moæemo s pravom nazvati prvim regionalnim liderom u dizajnu. DinamiËan zamah u dizajniranju ojastuËenog namjeπtaja u Kvadra Designu obeÊaje nam i novu, posve modularnu kolekciju ∑ Match i Cloud, dizajn arhitektice Sanje KnezoviÊ, te novi adut za opremanje poslovnih interijera Domino, dizajniran od Numen/ForUse. Ugodna dizajnerska iznenaenja iz Kvadra Designa prezentirat Êe se ovog listopada na zagrebaËkom sajmu namjeπtaja Ambienta, a meunarodna Êe se premijera odræati na IMM Cologne, u sijeËnju 2013., najveÊem svjetskom okupljaliπtu namjeπtajske industrije. n

he development’s initiator is business leader Tomislav KnezoviÊ, who gained his experience in the mattress industry and led his ﬁrst company Perfecta to the forefront of the Croatian brands specialized in healthy sleep. Along with the standard mattresses, bed bases and pillows, he diversiﬁed Perfecta with a collection of beds, including the Hilton, the most popular and bestselling piece of the past year. Though already at the very top of the market and celebrating 20 years of successful activity, Perfecta ∑ today a member of the Swedish Hilding Anders Group, the

leading manufacturer of beds in Europe ∑ is also turning to design. To this end, the internationally established design team Numen/ ForUse was engaged to create the latest product, the Tilt bed. KnezoviÊ transferred the experienced gathered in the development of quality mattresses as the basis for comfortable and healthy sleep onto the kindred industry of upholstered furniture and so founded Kvadra Design, thereby exemplifying his passion for design and quality products. His investment and progression into design were acknowledged already at Kvadra Design’s first presentation at the IMM Cologne this year, at which the furniture collection was recognized both by the métier and the public for its innovative design, marking the start of exporting to European and Asian countries. Soon after the exhibition in Cologne, the Revolve sofa (Numen/ForUse + BratoviÊ&Borovnjak) won the Red Dot Award for Product Design in 2012, and thus became the first product from the Croatian furniture industry to be presented with this renowned accolade for design and manufacturing of a high standard. Moreover, the sofa has become the icon of contemporary Croatian design and has amassed many fans, as it has become integral to their lifestyle, together with other pieces from the collection. The popularity of Kvadra Design’s products is further confirmed by the increasing number of established companies who are choosing to furnish their office spaces with upholstered furniture from Kvadra Design. This marks the company’s first steps in the contract furniture sector and this feat, combined with the market response and the overall integration of design

into development and manufacturing, afﬁrms its right to be known as the regional design leader. As it continues to gather momentum, Kvadra Design promises a new, modular collection ∑ Modular, designed by architect Sanja KnezoviÊ, as well as Domino (Numen/ForUse), a new trump for the contract furniture sector.

Novelties from Kvadra Design will be presented this October at the Zagreb furniture fair Ambienta, whilst the international premiere will take place at the IMM Cologne in January 2013, the world’s largest gathering of the furniture industry. n

www.perfecta.hr

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koji dolaze predavati na APB s vrhunskih su, svjetski priznatih, poslovnih πkola poput Harvarda, Stanforda, Dukea, INSEAD-a, Bocconija, Georgia Techa, no valja naglasiti da su oni izvrsni pojedinci koji su sudjelovali u stvaranju disciplina, te i dandanas utjeËu na njihov razvoj, πto je i bio jedan od glavnih kriterija njihova odabira. Osim osobite akademske karijere, dokazali su se nebrojeno puta savjetujuÊi najbolja svjetska poduzeÊa kao i vlade pojedinih dræava. Nova generacija polaznika imat Êe prilike upoznati se s najnovijim trendovima iz podruËja inovacija, marketinga, korporativne strategije i ﬁnancija. »esti su stavovi javnosti, ali i menadæera, da CEE regija nema kapaciteta za velika otkriÊa i inovacije te da velike promjene nisu moguÊe. Cilj APB programa upravo je promjena takvih stavova i poticanje menadæera CEE regije da budu odvaæniji i razmiπljaju izvan standardnih okvira kako bi osigurali konkurentnu prednost te daljnji rast i razvoj poduzeÊa. n

nstitut za inovacije upisuje novu generaciju Advanced Program in Business ∑ jednog od najboljih executive programa u regiji i svijetu, prema ocjenama vodeÊih profesora s najboljih svjetskih poslovnih πkola. Program je istaknut kao jedinstven u svijetu jer jedini dovodi najbolje svjetske profesore s vodeÊih poslovnih πkola na cjeloviti executive program za top managere. Proπla generacija polaznika ∑ srednjih i top menadæera ∑ veoma je dobro prihvatila APB. Program su pohvalili najbolji svjetski profesori, od kojih Êe neki predavati i ove godine. Nova generacija programa poËinje sveËanim otvorenjem u studenome 2012. te Êe trajati tijekom akademske godine 2012/13. Executive education programi u CEE regiji relativno su novi, a jedan je od najveÊih izazova u prvoj godini bio objasniti i prenijeti njihovu vrijednost i znaËenje praktiËarima. Kao temeljna prednost takvih programa Ëesto se istiËe moguÊnost praÊenja noviteta, stjecanja novih znanja, iskustava i ideja, nadogradnja speciﬁ Ënih vjeπtina, te svakako - neprocjenjiv networking. Profesori 140

nnovation Institute is launching a new generation of Advanced Program in Business - one of the best executive programs in the CEE region and the world, according to the leading professors from top world business schools. The program was highlighted as unique in the world because it brings together the best professors from various leading business schools in a single executive program for top managers. Past generations of participants - middle and top managers - accepted the APB extremely well. The program has also received praise from the world’s best professors, some of which will be teaching this year as well. A new generation of the program will mark its

beginning with the grand opening in November 2012 and will continue throughout the academic year 2012/13. Executive education programs are relatively new in the CEE region, so one of the biggest challenges in the first year was to explain and convey their value and importance to practitioners. One of the fundamental advantages of such programs is the possibility of monitoring novelties, acquiring new knowledge, experiences and ideas, upgrading specific skills, and of course ∑ highly valuable networking. Professors that teach at the APB come from excellent, world-renowned business schools such as Harvard, Stanford, Duke, INSEAD, Bocconi, Georgia Tech, but it should be noted that these are also exceptional individuals who participated in the creation of disciplines, and to this day influence their development, which was one of the main criteria for their selection. In addition to outstanding academic careers, they have proven their value through consulting world’s top businesses and governments. A new generation of participants will have the opportunity to get acquainted with the latest trends in the fields of innovation, marketing, corporate strategy and finance. The frequent views of the public and managers in the region are that CEE region doesn’t have a large capacity for discovery and innovation, and that big changes are just not possible. The main objective of the APB is to change these attitudes and encourage managers in the CEE to be bolder and think outside the standard framework in order to ensure a competitive advantage and further business development and growth for their organizations. n

For more information on the program, please visit www.apb.hr

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■ KULTURA CULTURE

Piše/By Nataša Petrinjak Fotograﬁje/Photos Arhiva Ministarstva kulture RH/Ministry of Culture RH archive

Hrvatski Apoksiomen u muzeju Louvre, skulpture Ivana MeπtroviÊa u muzeju Rodin, hrvatski knjiæevnici u Dieju, autori stripova i karikatura u La Rotondi, videoumjetnici u Palais de Tokyo, remek-djela srednjovjekovne umjetnosti iz hrvatskih riznica u muzeju Cluny... tek su djeliÊ programa Festivala Hrvatske u Francuskoj, koji Êe se odræati od rujna 2012. do sijeËnja 2013. godine u Parizu i drugim francuskim gradovima. Drago nam je πto je i Croatia Airlines dao svoj doprinos organizaciji toga velikoga kulturnog dogaaja. The Croatian Apoxyomenos at the Louvre, Ivan MeπtroviÊ’s sculptures at the Rodin Museum, Croatian writers in Die, authors of comics and caricatures at La Rotonde, video artists at Palais de Tokyo, masterpieces of Medieval art from Croatian treasuries at the Cluny Museum... this is just a small part of the program of the Festival of Croatia in France, which will take place from September 2012 to January 2013, in Paris and in other cities in France. We are glad that Croatia Airlines has contributed to the organisation of this great cultural event.

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estival pod punim nazivom Croatie, la voici!- Festival de la Croatie en France proizlazi iz potpisanoga hrvatsko - francuskog strateπkog partnerstva 2010. godine na predsjedniËkoj razini. Osim povezivanje i umreæavanje profesionalaca, struËnjaka i umjetnika dviju zemalja s posebnim naglaskom na vrijednost dugoroËnih suradnji, koje se tim projektom iniciraju, svrha je toga festivala i jaËanje hrvatsko-francuskih odnosa,

osobito u svjetlu francuske potpore Hrvatskoj u procesu pristupanja Europskoj uniji. Tako je Hrvatska prva zemlja jugoistoËne Europe koja je dobila Ëast predstaviti se u sklopu manifestacije Kulturnih sezona (Saisons culturelles), koje se odræavaju od 1985. godine. Festival Hrvatske u Francuskoj vaæan je na nekoliko razina; prije svega, rijeË je o izvanrednoj prilici da se hrvatska kulturna baπtina i suvremeni umjetnici predstave pred zahtjevnom francuskom publikom. S obzirom na to da festival traje viπe od tri mjeseca, prilika je to da naπu umjetnost vide i mnogi drugi Europljani i gosti iz svijeta neposredno prije ulaska Hrvatske u Europsku uniju. I doista

je veliko njihovo zanimanje za nas kao novu Ëlanicu unije. U taj opseæan projekt ukljuËeni su Ministarstvo vanjskih i europskih poslova i Ministarstvo kulture, Ministarstvo gospodarstva, Ministarstvo znanosti, obrazovanja i sporta, Ministarstvo turizma, Hrvatska gospodarska komora i Hrvatska turistiËka zajednica. Preko odabranih djela i programa sluπatelji, gledatelji, Ëitatelji, posjetitelji svih naraπtaja moÊi Êe se upoznati s time πto danas jesmo, kako se danas u Hrvatskoj æivi, radi i stvara. Koncepciju festivala potpisuju izbornice dviju zemalja - Seadeta MidæiÊ i Isabelle Delage uz suglasnost Mjeπovitoga organizacijskog odbora, a festival sadræava viπe od 60 programa. Detaljan program dostupan je na internetskim stranicama: http://croatielavoici.com / i www.tportal.hr n

long-term cooperative efforts initiated by the project, the goal of the festival is to strengthen Croatian-French relations, particularly in light of France’s support of Croatia in the process of accession to the European Union. This makes Croatia the ﬁrst country in Southeastern Europe to have the honor of presenting itself within the event entitled Cultural Seasons (Saisons culturelles), held since 1985. The Festival of Croatia in France is important on many levels; primarily, this is an extraordinary opportunity to present the Croatian cultural heritage and contemporary artists to a demanding French audience. As the festival will last for more than three months, this is a chance for many other Europeans and guests from around the world to see Croatian art, just before Croatia joins the European Union. And their interest in Croatia, as a new member of the Union, is indeed great. The Ministry of Foreign and European Affairs, the Ministry of Culture, the Ministry of Economy, the Ministry of Science, Education and Sports, the Ministry of Tourism, the Croatian Chamber of Commerce and the Croatian National Tourist Board are involved in this extensive project. Through select works and programs, listeners, viewers, readers and visitors of all generations will be able to gain insight into what Croatia is today, how people live, work and create in today’s Croatia. The authors of the concept of the festival are the two countries’ selectors − Seadeta MidæiÊ and Isabelle Delage, with the approval of the Mixed Organizing Committee. With over 60 programs, a detailed program of the festival is available at the following websites: http://croatielavoici.com / and www.tportal.hr. n

he Festival, under the full title Croatie, la voici! − Festival de la Croatie en France, is the result of a strategic partnership between Croatia and France signed in 2010, at the presidential level. In addition to establishing connections and networks between professionals, experts and artists of the two countries, with special emphasis on the value of

Apoksiomen Apoxyomenos CROATIA AIRLINES

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■ POZNATI U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU CELEBRITIES IN OUR AIRCRAFT

Piše/By Mate DeviÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Filip Bundalo i/and Nenad Reberšak

Vaterpolisti The water polo team

Na Olimpijskim igrama u Londonu hrvatski sportaπi opet su potvrdili tezu o maloj zemlji za velike sportske dosege. »estitamo svim našim sportašima koji su sudjelovali u tome ponajveÊem svjetskom spektaklu, a osobito osvajaËima medalja, ponosni što smo i mi makar malo sudjelovali u njihovu uspjehu... At the Olympic Games in London, Croatian athletes have once again proven the old adage − a small country for great achievement in sport. We congratulate all our athletes who participated in the greatest sporting event of all time, especially the medal winners. Croatia Airlines is proud to have contributed, however little, to their success.

Sandra PerkoviÊ

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atjerali su nas da s ponosom pjevuπimo himnu za proglaπenja pobjednika, baπ kao da smo zajedno s njima godinama trenirali. Zlatom su se okitili vaterpolisti, a to znaËi i Igor HiniÊ, onaj div s Kvarnera s kojim smo uoËi OI razgovarali za ovaj Ëasopis. Kazao je tada, pomalo srameæljivo, kako je dio momËadi koja Êe se boriti za medalju, a kuÊi se vratio sa zlatom na grudima, taman da se moæe reÊi kako je ta medalja dijelom kovana i na krilima Croatia Airlinesa. Ako je dosad paænja putnika u zrakoplovima bila usmjerena na traæenje dobroÊudna dvometraπa koji je u zraku tek malo manje nego u vodi i na kopnu, sad valja gledati i paæljivije. Jer, tu su i zlatna djevojka i zlatan momak. Sandra PerkoviÊ i Giovanni Cernogoraz. Kraljica i kralj! ©ezdeset devet metara i jedanaest centimetara! »im je disk izletio iz ruke stasite ZagrepËanke, bilo je jasno da se konkurencija moæe pozdraviti sa zlatom. U taj zlatni hitac vrijedan novoga hrvatskog rekorda, kao da je stala sva æivotna priËa te Sandre PerkoviÊ (22), priËa vrijedna kakva filma. U toj je priËi, primjerice, i pobjeda nad smrtonosnom sepsom i πestomjeseËnom dopinπkom suspenzijom, ali i trener Ivan IvanËiÊ, Ëovjek koji atletske dijamante prepozna pa ih brusi do zlatnoga sjaja. Sandra je disk bacila dalje nego su to, koji dan poslije na istome tome olimpijskom stadionu, bacali deËki. Bilo je to Ëudo kojem se Ëudili nisu valjda samo ona i njezin trener. ©toviπe, nakon svega, nakon olimpijskog zlata i dva europska naslova, Sandra je bez imalo krzmanja rekla kako je na redu zlato sa Svjetskog prvenstva.

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Discover Croatia!

Ministry of Tourism of the Republic Croatia

The mysteries of the island of Cres sightseeing tour and getting to know the most interesting places, many uninhabited, on the island of Cres; getting to know the Cres way of life, tradition and customs; enjoying the natural beauty and the ﬂavors of local delicacies

Lošinjska plovidba - turizam d.o.o. T: +385 51 231 077 F: +385 51 231 611 Riva Lošinjskih kapetana 8, Mali Lošinj, ID KOD: HR-AB-51-040031636 info@losinia.hr www.losinia.hr

Your hotel in the heart of Zagreb…

SEMINARS

CONGRESSES

WEDDINGS

EVENTS

BUSINESS LUNCHES

JUICE BAR

PREFERRED DESTINATION OF THE YEAR 2011/2012

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Ljudevita Gaja 1, 10 000 Zagreb, Hrvatska, Tel.: +385 1 4863-555, Fax: + 385 1 4863-550, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr

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Sestre ZaninoviÊ

Giovanni Cernogoraz

The ZaninoviÊ sisters

Rukometaši The handball team

Bude li tako, a Sandra nas je uvjerila da u njezine rijeËi ne treba sumnjati, dio i te medalje i opet Êe ponajbolja bacaËica diska na svijetu posvetiti majci Vesni. Najbolji jednostavno ne zaboravljaju tko ih je gurao do vrha, i tko je najzasluæniji što su prije svega postali veliki ljudi. StreljaËka disciplina trap, lov na glinene golubove. Giovanni Cernogoraz natjerao je Hrvate da na brzinu nauËe baπ sve o sportu za koji jedva da su znali da postoji. Sad znaju i da puπka stoji nekih 9000 eura, i da svaki metak stoji 2,5 kune, i da ih naπ junak potroπi na godinu od 15 do 20 tisuÊa. Finale OI bilo je napetije od kakva Hitchcockova trilera. Giovanni je bio sjajan, pogodio je 24 od 25 glinenih golubova, no to nije bilo dovoljno. On i Massimo Fabbrizi imali su izjednaËen rezultat. Valjalo je u raspucavanje. ©estoga goluba Massimo je promaπio. Giovanni nije! Poslije povratka iz Londona, u ZraËnoj luci Zagreb, Giovanni Cernogoraz najprije je zagrlio svoju suprugu Sabinu, djecu Evu i Leonarda i roditelje, mamu Brunu i oca Valtera,

Martin SinkoviÊ

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lovca uz kojega se i zaljubio u streljaπtvo. U Londonu se valjda nije zadræao ni sat viπe nego πto je morao. Valjalo mu je Ëim prije poÊi u njegov Novigrad i pomoÊi roditeljima u njihovu restoranu, koje nosi ime Giovanni. Olimpijski pobjednik a konobar, onako kako je za πankom stajao Giovannijev veliki uzor, jedan od ponajboljih sportaπa πto smo ih ikad imali, boksaË i pjesnik, svjetski prvak Mate Parlov. − Zahvaljujem svima, osobito svojoj obitelji, supruzi, kÊeri i sinu. Ovo je dokaz da se trud i odricanje isplati. Bio mi je to prvi nastup na OI i prva medalja, i to zlatna, no vjerujem da neÊe biti zadnja. Imam 29 godina i joπ je vremena preda mnom − kazao je poslije povratka kuÊi Giovanni. Zato je njegov Novigrad za sveËanog doËeka doslovce gorio. Istra ima svoga olimpijskog pobjednika, junaka koji kraj olimpijskog zlata i dva europska i dalje ponavlja kako se u njegovu æivotu ne mijenja niπta, kako ostaje πto je dosad bio, zaljubljenik u sport i obitelj, i niπta viπe. Sandra i Giovanni. Skromni, dragi, nasmijani, vrijedni. A kad je tako, onda ne treba sumnjati da Êe medalja biti joπ, pa i onih olimpijskih, veÊ za Ëetiri godine u Rio de Janeiru. Ako treba, i prije tih Olimpijskih igara opet Êemo se sjetiti HiniÊa i s njim razgovarati. Pa, neka sve bude isto − zlato Sandre PerkoviÊ, Giovannija Cernogoraza i vaterpolista, srebro Ëetverca na pariÊe (David Šajn, Martin SinkoviÊ, Damir Martin i Valent SinkoviÊ), te bronca rukometaπa i Lucije ZaninoviÊ u taekwondou. n

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hey inspired us to proudly hum the national anthem during the award ceremony as if we had trained alongside them for years. The water polo team was adorned with gold, including Igor HiniÊ, the Kvarner giant, whom we interviewed on these very pages just before the opening of the Olympics. In that interview, he modestly said that he was part of a team that would fight to have the gold medal hung around their necks at the end of the day, a result brought about in part by Croatia Airlines itself it must be said. However, if Croatia Airlines passengers are looking for a glimpse of this two-meter tall water polo giant, who spends almost as much time in the air as in water or on land, then the flight has another thing in store for them: two more colossal athletes to admire, Croatia’s golden boy Giovanni Cernogoraz, and golden girl Sandra PerkoviÊ, the king and queen! Giovanni Cernogoraz inspired Croats learn everything there was to know about a sport they had known little about that of trapshooting, i.e. the hunting of clay pigeons and he did that overnight. Now, Croats are aware of the fact that a shotgun costs about 9000 EUR, that every bullet costs 2.5 HRK, and that our hero uses 15,000 to 20,000 bullets a year in target practice. More exciting than a Hitchcock thriller, Giovanni was outstanding in the Olympic fi nals, shooting 24 out of 25 clay pigeons, which was, incredibly, not enough to take the win from Italy. He tied with Massimo Fabbrizi, and a shoot-off ensued. In the end, it was Giovanni, not Massimo, who nailed the sixth pigeon and got the gold! After landing in Zagreb Airport, the first thing Giovanni Cernogoraz did was hug his wife Sabina, his children Eva and Leonardo, his mother Bruna, and father Valter, a hunter under whose influence Giovanni fell in love with shooting as a sport. He did not stay in London any longer than was absolutely necessary, eager to get back to his home town of Novigrad to help his parents at the family restaurant, which is named Giovanni after him. He is both an Olympic champion and a waiter, as was Giovanni’s role model growing up, world boxing champion and poet, Mate Parlov, one of the best Croatian athletes of all time. − I’d like to thank everyone, especially my family, my wife, my daughter and my son. This is proof that hard work and sacrifice pay off. This was my first time at the Olympics, and my first Olympic medal, and a gold one. I think there’ll be many more to come. I’m only 29 years old; I have a lot

of time ahead of me, said Giovanni upon returning home. During the welcome home ceremony, his home town of Novigrad was positively buzzing. Istria now has its Olympic champion back, a hero who, in addition to the Olympic gold, also boasts two European gold medals. He keeps saying that his win changes nothing and that he will remain what he has always been, simply put, devoted to sports as well as to his family. At a distance of 69 meters and 11 centimetres, it was clear, as soon as the discus left the hand of Sandra PerkoviÊ, 22-year old native of Zagreb that the competition had no hope of taking home the gold medal. Sandra in one golden throw, set a new Croatian record. The throw culminated a long personal journey, worthy of a Hollywood script, that included overcoming a potentially-fatal bout of sepsis and a six month doping-related suspension; it was also a victory for her coach, Ivan IvanËiÊ, who with all his years of experience, successfully managed to take a diamond in the rough and make her a star. Sandra threw the discus further than even the male athletes did a couple of days later at the very same Olympic stadium. It was a miracle which astonished everyone except her and her coach. Moreover, after everything was over, after obtaining Olympic gold and two European titles, Sandra said without hesitation that she was ready to conquer the world by winning a gold medal at the World Championships. If this were to happen, and it undoubtedly will according to Sandra, one of the world’s ﬁ nest discus throwers will again dedicate this medal to her mother, Vesna. The best athletes simply do not forget who got them to the top and who deserve the most credit for making them who they are, not only great athletes, but great people. Giovanni and Sandra are humble, kindhearted, hard-working people who are always smiling. There is no doubt that more medals are to follow − Olympic ones too, in just four years in Rio de Janeiro. And if necessary, we will interview HiniÊ on the eve of the next Olympic Games to hear his sporting predictions, but as far as Croats are concerned, the results need not be any different than in London: a gold medal for Giovanni Cernogoraz, Sandra PerkoviÊ, and the Croatian water polo team; a silver medal for the quadruple sculls rowing team (David Šajn, Martin SinkoviÊ, Damir Martin i Valent SinkoviÊ); and a bronze medal for Lucija ZaninoviÊ in taekwondo and the Croatian handball team. n CROATIA AIRLINES

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■ ZAŠTITA PRIRODE ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION

SUPI

Br/Nr 16

jeloglavi sup (Gyps fulvus) jedna je od najveÊih prirodnih vrijednosti Tramuntane, otoka Cresa, pa i Hrvatske. Tako, doslovce, piπe na sluæbenim stranicama IstraæivaËko-edukacijskog centra za zaπtitu prirode na otoku Cresu. Osobito nam je drago πto je naπa tvrtka pomogla u vraÊanju te vrijedne ptice, koja je uπla u povijest ornitoloπke znanosti, iz ©vedske u Hrvatsku. Naime, naπim je zrakoplovom 28. kolovoza iz Kopenhagena u Zagreb prevezen creski bjeloglavi sup Oπtro iz Ekocentra Caput Insulae ∑ Beli, koji je odletio s Cresa i nakon leta od viπe tisuÊa kilometara pronaen je kod πvedskog Tuvea, najsjevernije europske toËke na kojoj je ta vrsta ptice ikad viena. Jednogodiπnji Oπtro u lipnju je uoËen sjevernije od 55. paralele sjeverne geografske πirine, Ëime je oboren dosadaπnji poznati rekord u letu supova, koji je zabiljeæen na 53. paraleli. Kad je pronaen, Oπtro je imao manje od pet i pol kilograma, πto cijeloj priËi daje dodatnu osobitost, jer takve vrste ptica teπko preæive ako nemaju πest kilograma. U Zagreb su istim letom stigli i Tommy Landen i Soﬁa Jonasson, πvedski promatraËi ptica, koji su supa pronaπli i smjestili ga u oporaviliπte nedaleko od Göteborga.Na temelju markacije (prstena s podacima), par Landen∑Jonasson kontaktirao je creski ekocentar i dogovoreno je da se sup vrati na rodni otok poπto se dovoljno oporavi. Na dan kad je krilima Croatia Airlinesa stigao u Zagreb, imao je osam kilograma,

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Bjeloglavi sup, maskota Croatia Airlinesa od 2004. godine The Griffon Vulture, the Croatia Airlines’ mascot since 2004

a svoja Êe krila slobodno raπiriti potkraj rujna, kad se oËekuje njegov povratak u prirodu nakon rehabilitacije. Zrakoplov Croatia Airlinesa u ZL Zagreb doËekao je struËni tim Ekocentra Caput Insulae na Ëelu s predsjednikom Goranom SuπiÊem. Tom je prigodom istaknuto kako je cjelokupna priËa oko Oπtra primjer izvrsne meunarodne suradnje sa sretnim zavrπetkom. Goran SuπiÊ osobito je zahvalio Croatia Airlinesu na tome πto je sponzorirao meunarodni prijevoz bjeloglavog supa iz Danske u Hrvatsku, kao i karte za πvedske promatraËe ptica, koji su pronaπli i rehabilitirali hrvatski primjerak ugroæene vrste ptica. n

he Griffon Vulture (Gyps fulvus) is one of the greatest natural treasures of Tramuntana, the entire island of Cres, and Croatia in general. This is what the ofﬁcial website of the Nature Protection Research and Education on the island of Cres says, word for word. We are especially glad that our company helped bring back this valuable bird, which is an important part of the history of ornithology, from Sweden to Croatia. On the 28th of August, our airplane carried Oπtro, the Griffon Vulture, native to Cres, previously dwelling in the Ecological Center Caput Insulae in Beli, from Copenhagen to Zagreb. Oπtro had left Cres and, after ﬂying several thousands of kilometres, was found near Tuve in Sweden, the northernmost point of Europe where this bird species has been seen. One-year-old Oπtro was spotted in June, just north of the

55th parallel north, which broke the previously known Griffon Vulture flight record at the 53rd parallel. Tommy Landen and Sofia Jonasson, bird watchers from Sweden who had found the bird and placed it in the recovery center near Gothenburg, arrived in Zagreb on the same flight. When found, Oπtro weighed less than 5.5 kg, which makes the whole story all the more amazing, as most species rarely survive if their weight is below 6 kg. Based on the ring containing identification data, Landen and Jonasson contacted the Ecological Center in Cres, and it has been arranged for the Griffon Vulture to return to its native island after it has sufficiently recovered. On the day when it arrived in Zagreb on Croatia Airlines, it weighed 8 kg, and it is expected that the bird will freely spread its wings by the end of September this year, when its return to nature, following rehabilitation, is to take place. The Croatia Airlines plane was met at the Zagreb Airport by the expert team of the Ecological Center Caput Insulae, led by its president, Goran SuπiÊ. In this case, it was emphasized that all the events regarding Oπtro set an example of excellent international cooperation with a happy ending. Goran SuπiÊ expressed special thanks to Croatia Airlines for sponsoring the international transport of the Griffon Vulture from Denmark to Croatia, as well as the plane tickets for the Swedish bird watchers who had found and rehabilitated a Croatian specimen of this endangered bird species. n

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RUJAN/SEPTEMBER Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 25.-30.9./25-30 September, Zagreb INTERNACIONALNI FESTIVAL EKSPERIMENTALNOG FILMA I VIDEA /THE INTERNATIONAL EXPERIMENTAL FILM AND VIDEO FESTIVAL Na festivalu koji prati najnoviju produkciju hibridnog filma i novih senzibiliteta filmske umjetnosti, moæete pogledati mnoge zanimljive filmove πto Êe ih predstaviti autori fi lmova u konkurenciji, Ëlanovi æirija i filmski profesionalci./Visitors to the festival can see many interesting films that explore the latest techniques in hybrid filmmaking and that reveal new sensibilities in film art. All works are presented by film-makers in the competition, jury members and other film professionals. www.25fps.hr

29.9.-14.10./29 September-14 October, ZapreπiÊ DANI JELA»IΔA /JELA»IΔ DAYS Graani ZapreπiÊa na dan svoga grada prisjeÊaju se hrvatskoga bana Josipa JelaËiÊa i prireuju niz kulturnih, sportskih i zabavnih dogaanja uz tradicionalni gospodarski sajam./

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The citizens of ZapreπiÊ celebrate the day of their city in honour of Croatian Count (Ban) Josip JelaËiÊ by holding a traditional commercial fair, where a number of cultural, sporting and entertainment events can be enjoyed. www.zapresic.hr Varaædin i okolica/Varaædin and surroundings 21.9.-2.10./21 September-2 October, Varaædin VARAÆDINSKE BAROKNE VE»ERI/VARAÆDIN BAROQUE EVENINGS OËekuju vas vrhunski koncerti na kojima vam renomirani hrvatski i inozemni ansambli predstavljaju suvremene interpretacije djela Bacha, Händela, Vivaldija…/You can enjoy a series of outstanding concerts, where renowned Croatian and international ensembles perform modern interpretations of Baroque masterpieces by Bach, Händel, Vivaldi… www.vbv.hr 22.-25.9./22-25 September, Lepoglava ME–UNARODNI FESTIVAL »IPKE/THE INTERNATIONAL LACE FESTIVAL Festival predstavlja vrijednost i ljepotu lepoglavske Ëipke - pravoga etnografskog blaga. Takoer moæete razgledati Ëipkarske radove iz susjednih europskih zemalja./The festival promotes the richness and beauty of Lepoglava lace − a true ethnographic treasure. You can also see lacework from neighbouring European countries. www.lepoglava-info.hr

©ibenik i okolica /©ibenik and surroundings 24.9.-2.10. /24 September-2 October, Murter REGATA LATINSKO IDRO/ LATINSKO IDRO (THE LATIN SAIL) REGATTA Na dan sv. Mihovila, zaπtitnika murterske æupe, odræava se regata tradicijskih brodova leuta, gajeta i kaiÊa. Ruta regate prati teæaËke putove starih Murterana koji su svaki dan jedrili do svojih posjeda na Kornatima./ On the day of St. Michael, the patron saint of the Murter Parish, a regatta of traditional ships, leut, gajeta and kaiÊ, is being held. The regatta route follows the peasant itineraries of the ancient inhabitants of Murter, who would sail to their offshore estates in the Kornati archipelago every day. www.latinskoidro.hr

LISTOPAD/OCTOBER Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings listopad, Zagreb Listopad/October, Zagreb PARTY UNITED ZAGREB/PARTY UNITED ZAGREB Pod sloganom NoÊ pripada vama, Zagreb ugoπÊuje poznata imena elektroniËke glazbe i svjetske klupske brendove, a organizirani su i zanimljivi koncerti. U projekt su ukljuËeni najbolji i najposjeÊeniji klubovi./Under the slogan The Night Belongs to You, Zagreb welcomes famous electronic musicians and international club

brands to the stage. Only the best and most popular clubs are involved in the project. www.partyunited-zagreb.com 12.-20. 10./12-20 October, Zagreb ZAGREB KOM 7/ZAGREB KOM 7 U Hrvatskome glazbenom zavod u o d r æ a v a s e 7. z a g r e b a Ë k i meunarodni festival komorne glazbe, na kojemu moæete posluπati vrhunske izvedbe./The 7th annual Zagreb International Chamber Music Festival is being held at the Croatian Music Institute, where you can attend performances by outstanding artists. www.zagreb-festival.com 14.-21.10./14-21 October, Zagreb ZAGREB FILM FESTIVAL/THE ZAGREB FILM FESTIVAL Na Festivalu moæete pogledati filmove koji nisu nuæno komercijalni, nego teæe umjetniËkim ostvarenjima i postaju hitovima. Projekcije filmova praÊene su i izvrsnim koncertima./The festival features films that are artistic in nature rather than mainstream and have become hits. A musical element follows each movie screening. www.zagrebfilmfestival.com 24.-27.10./24-27 October, Zagreb 3. ZAGREB BRASS FESTIVAL/ THE ZAGREB BRASS FESTIVAL U Koncertnoj dvorani Vatroslava Lisinskog posjetite festival limenih puhaËa i uæivajte u solistiËkoj i komornoj glazbi pisanoj iskljuËivo za te glazbenike./ Visit the festival at the Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall and enjoy solos and chamber music written solely for brass instruments. www.lisinski.hr

Meunarodni festival Ëipke/The International Lace Festival

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26.-28.10./26-28 October, Zagreb CRTANI ROMANI ©OU 2012./ THE ZAGREB INTERNATIONAL COMIC FESTIVAL I ove Êe se godine na meunarodnom festivalu stripa odræati izloæbe, predstavljanja domaÊih izdanja, razgovori s publikom, potpisivanja i crtanja za publiku, projekcije ﬁlmova, tribine i dan besplatnih stripova./Exhibitions, promotional activities for domestic edition comics, discussions with the audience, comic signings, drawings for the public, ﬁlm screenings and forums, as well as a free comic book day will be held again this year at the International Comic Festival. www.crs-festival.com

Sisak i okolica/Sisak and surroundings Listopad/October, Hrvatska Kostajnica KESTENIJADA/THE CHESTNUT FESTIVAL Moæete sudjelovati u berbi kestena i kuπati razliËita jela od peËenih i kuhanih kestena, te slastice od ukusnog kesten-pirea./ You can participate in the chestnut harvest and taste different dishes made with roasted or cooked chestnuts, as well as delicious chestnut puree-based desserts. www.hrvatska-kostajnica.hr

GospiÊ i okolica/GospiÊ and surroundings 6. i 7.10./6 and 7 October, GospiÊ JESEN U LICI/AUTUMN IN LIKA Na ovoj vas manifestaciji, uz predstavljanje malih liËkih gospodarstava i poduzetnika, oËekuje i izloæba koja Êe vam prikazati karakteristiËne prehrambene, uporabne i ukrasne predmete. Izloæbu prate kulturnoumjetniËka druπtva, koja Êe upotpuniti vaπ doæivljaj./This event introduces you to Lika’s small business community and entrepreneurs, and includes an exhibition displaying food characteristic to the area, utensils and decorative objects. The exhibition is supported by cultural arts societies which have added a great deal to the experience. www.licko-senjska.hr Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 12.-14.10./12-14 October, Lovran 20.-21.10./20-21 October, DobreÊ 27.-28.10./27-28 October, Liganj MARUNADA/THE SWEET CHESTNUT FESTIVAL − MARUNADA Ponudit Êe vam tradicionalne peËene marune - jednu od najkvalitetnijih vrsta kestena, i razliËite slastice spravljene od kestena, uz koje moæete kuπati i kvalitetna domaÊa piÊa./You will be offered traditional roast maruni (sweet chestnuts) − one of the best varieties of chestnut, as well as different chestnut desserts which can be washed down with select local beverages. www.tz-lovran.hr Zadar i okolica/Zadar and surroundings 25.-28.10./25-28 October, Biograd BIOGRAD BOAT AND CHARTER SHOW/THE BIOGRAD BOAT AND CHARTER SHOW Biogradski jesenski nautiËki sajam mjesto je gdje moæete dobiti informacije o plovidbi i dobro se zabaviti./

Biograd’s autumn nautical fair is a place where you can have a good time while ﬁnding out more about top brands, new technology and tricks of the trade www.marinakornati.com STUDENI/NOVEMBER Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 11.11./11 November, Dugo Selo, Samobor, Sv. Ivan Zelina, Velika Gorica, Jastrebarsko MARTINJE U ZAGREBA»KOJ ÆUPANIJI/ST. MARTIN’S DAY IN ZAGREB COUNTY Martinje, blagdan vina, slavi se u mnogim mjestima i gradovima ZagrebaËke æupanije./St. Martin’s Day, which involves drinking the ﬁrst wine of the season, is celebrated in many towns and villages in Zagreb County. www.tz-samobor.hr PROSINAC/DECEMBER Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 3.12.2012.-1.1.2013./3 December, 2012-1 January, 2013, Zagreb ADVENT U ZAGREBU/ADVENT IN ZAGREB Bogat kulturno-zabavni program i ove Êe se godine odræavati u sklopu te tradicionalne blagdanske manifestacije, koja se organizira u srcu Zagreba - na Trgu bana JelaËiÊa, kao i na ostalim trgovima i ulicama grada./During the upcoming holiday season, Ban Josip JelaËiÊ Square, in the heart of Zagreb, as well as other squares and streets throughout the city, will be hosting a series of events and activities, rich in culture and entertainment. www.adventzagreb.com 8.12./8 December, Zagreb 45. ZLATNA PIRUETA ZAGREBA 2012./THE 45th GOLDEN SPIN OF ZAGREB, 2012 U zagrebaËkom Domu spor tova odræava se meunarodno natjecanje

u umjetniËkom klizanju./The World Figure Skating Championships are being held at Dom Sportova in Zagreb. www.croskate.hr 19.12.2012.-15.1.2013./19 December, 2012-15 January, 2013, »azma BOÆIΔNA PRI»A U »AZMI/A CHRISTMAS STORY IN »AZMA U boæiÊno vrijeme vrijedi posjetiti imanje obitelji Salaj u Grabovnici pokraj »azme jer je ukraπeno mnoπtvom raznobojnih æarulja i zacijelo Êe vam pruæiti nezaboravan boæiÊni doæivljaj./ At Christmas time, it is a great idea to visit the Salaj family estate in Grabovnica near »azma, as it is festively decorated with many lamps in different colours and will surely give you an unforgettable Christmas experience. www.salaj.net Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings 13.12.2012. - 6.1.2013./13 December, 2012-6 January, 2013, Dubrovnik BOÆIΔNI SAJAM/CHRISTMAS FAIR Dubrovnik, Unescov grad svjetske baπtine, u boæiÊno Êe vrijeme posebno zasjati i pruæiti vam ugoaj blagdanskoga renesansnoga grada. U mjesecu darivanja u palaËi Sponza odræat Êe se prigodni BoæiÊni sajam./ Dubrovnik, UNESCO’s world heritage city, is in its glory at Christmas time, offering you a Renaissance atmosphere for the holiday season. During this gift-giving month, a Christmas fair will be held at the Sponza Palace. www.tzdubrovnik.hr

* Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara This schedule is valid on Septembre 12th. Allow for change after this date.

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SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 156 NOVOSTI NEWS 158 NAŠI ZAPOSLENICI OUR STAFF 162 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED 166 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 169 FLOTA FLEET 171 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 173 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB ZAGREB AIRPORT 174 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 176 ADRESE ADDRESSES CROATIA AIRLINES

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CROATIA AIRLINES NOVOSTI SURADNJA CROATIA AIRLINESA I US AIRWAYSA

Croatia Airlines, hrvatski nacionalni avioprijevoznik, i ameriËka aviokompanija US Airways od 27. lipnja 2012. g. primjenjuju code share sporazum o suradnji u prijevozu putnika izmeu Republike Hrvatske i Sjedinjenih AmeriËkih Dræava. Putnici Croatia Airlinesa u sklopu tog sporazuma dobivaju joπ bolji pristup Sjedinjenim AmeriËkim Dræavama te pogodnost kupnje jedinstvene karte, πto im omoguÊuje ugodnije iskustvo putovanja. Istim pogodnostima mogu se koristiti i putnici US Airwaysa, kojima je na raspolaganju proπirena ponuda usluga za odrediπta u Hrvatskoj. Letovi su u ponudi na svim prodajnim mjestima Croatia Airlinesa u Hrvatskoj i inozemstvu te na internetskim stranicama www.usairways.com. Putnici Croatia Airlinesa koji iz Zagreba putuju preko Amsterdama, Bruxellesa, Frankfurta, Londona (Heathrow), Münchena i Züricha, odsad imaju pristup Charlotteu i Philadelphiji, Ëvoriπtima US Airwaysa na istoËnoj obali SAD-a. Croatia Airlines dodaje svoju oznaku i na letovima US Airwaysa unutar SAD-a, i to iz Philadelphije u Cleveland, Dallas/Fort-Worth te St. Louis. Isto tako, u sklopu te suradnje putnicima US Airwaysa omoguÊuje se povezanost sa Zagrebom preko navedenih europskih odrediπta. Dodatna je pogodnost πto Êe Ëlanovi programa Miles&More Croatia Airlinesa moÊi skupljati i iskoristiti prijeene milje na letovima US Airwaysa, a Ëlanovi US Airwaysova programa Dividend Miles isto to mogu uËiniti na letovima Croatia Airlinesa. Croatia Airlines i US Airways u buduÊnosti planiraju proπiriti poslovnu suradnju, i to ukljuËenjem letova u Dubrovnik i Split te iz Splita i Dubrovnika.

CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS are offered at all Croatia Airlines’ points of sale within Croatia and abroad, and on online at: www.usairways.com. Customers of Croatia Airlines travelling from Zagreb are able to connect from Amsterdam, Brussels, Frankfurt, London (Heathrow), Munich and Zurich, and can access Charlotte and Philadelphia, the US Airways’ east coast hubs. Croatia Airlines has added its code on US Airways flights within the United States, from Philadelphia to Cleveland, Dallas/ Fort-Worth and St. Louis. Also, within this partnership, customers of US Airways are able to connect to Zagreb from the abovementioned European destinations. An additional benefit is that members of the Miles&More program at Croatia Airlines are able to collect and use their air miles on US Airways flights, while members of the US Airways’ program Dividend Miles will enjoy the same luxury on Croatia Airlines flights. Croatia Airlines and US Airways plan to expand their business relationship in the future by offering flights to Dubrovnik and Split, and out of Split and Dubrovnik. MILIJUNTI PUTNIK U OVOJ GODINI

Croatia Airlines zabiljeæio je 18. srpnja svoga milijuntog putnika u 2012. godini. Ovogodiπnji je jubilarni putnik Wolfgang Breetzke iz Frankfurta, a zabiljeæen je na prijepodnevnom letu OU417 iz Frankfurta u Zagreb. Nakon slijetanja zrakoplova, u ZraËnoj luci Zagreb odræana je prigodna sveËanost na

kojoj je Croatia Airlines sretnom putniku darovao dvije povratne karte za poslovni razred, po izboru. Ovogodiπnji milijunti putnik Croatia Airlinesa prevezen je dva dana prije u odnosu na dosadaπnji rekordni datum (20. srpnja 2011.), Ëime se nastavio pozitivan trend putniËkog prometa. Ostvareni prometni uËinci u 2012. godini imaju dodatnu vrijednost s obzirom na to da je nadmaπena i rekordna 2011. godina, u kojoj je milijunti putnik zabiljeæen Ëak 27 dana prije nego 2010. godine. Croatia Airlines vodeÊa je regionalna kompanija po broju putnika i izravno povezuje Hrvatsku s 25 europskih odrediπta, a u suradnji s partnerima iz udruge Star Alliance i s cijelim svijetom. Od prvoga putniËkog leta 1991. godine do danas zrakoplovima hrvatskoga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika ukupno je prevezeno gotovo 25,400.000 putnika. THE ONE MILLIONTH PASSENGER OF CROATIA AIRLINES IN 2012

On July 18, 2012, Croatia Airlines recorded this year’s one millionth passenger. This year’s jubilee passenger was Wolfgang Breetzke, who travelled on morning ﬂ ight OU417 from Frankfurt to Zagreb. After landing, a celebration was organised at the Zagreb Airport by Croatia Airlines ofﬁcials who presented the lucky passenger with two complimentary round-trip business class tickets to any one of the company’s destinations.

COOPERATION BETWEEN CROATIA AIRLINES AND US AIRWAYS

As of June 27, 2012, Croatia Airlines, the Croatian national airline, and America’s US Airways have a code share agreement on passenger trafﬁc. The arrangement is between the Republic of Croatia and the United States of America. With this agreement, Croatia Airlines passengers enjoy expanded access to the US market and the convenience of a single-ticket purchase for a seamless travel experience. US Airways passengers also enjoy the singleticket purchase and the expanded service to destinations throughout Croatia. The ﬂights 156

Naš milijunti putnik u ovoj godini Our one millionth passenger in 2012

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Croatia Airlines’ one millionth passenger this year was recorded two days earlier compared to the previous record (July 20, 2011), showing a positive trend in passenger traffic. The company’s 2012 passenger traffic results are especially valuable given the fact that they are even better than those in the record year of 2011 when the one millionth passenger was recorded as many as 27 days earlier than in 2010. The leading regional carrier in terms of passengers, Croatia Airlines directly connects Croatia with 25 European destinations and, in cooperation with its partners from the Star Alliance network, with the entire world. Since its first passenger flight in 1991, the Croatian national airline has transported a total of almost 25,400,000 passengers. CROATIA AIRLINES 4. AVIOKOMPANIJA ISTO»NE EUROPE

Prema Skytraxovoj godiπnjoj anketi World Airline Awards o zadovoljstvu putnika zrakoplovnim kompanijama, domaÊi je avioprijevoznik proglaπen Ëetvrtom najboljom aviokompanijom istoËne Europe. Putnici su anonimno ocjenjivali udobnost i ËistoÊu kabine, kvalitetu hrane i piÊa, ljubaznost osoblja i ostalo. Istraæivanje je obuhvatilo viπe od 200 zrakoplovnih kompanija. Pet je najboljih kompanija: Transaero Airlines, Aeroﬂot Russian Airlines, CSA Czech Airlines, Croatia Airlines i LOT Polish Airlines. CROATIA AIRLINES RANKED THE

with airline companies, Croatia Airlines was declared the fourth best airline in Eastern Europe. Passengers voted anonymously on cabin comfort, cleanliness, food and beverages, staff service etc. The research encompassed more than 200 air carriers. The ﬁ ve best airlines are: Transaero Airlines, Aeroﬂ ot Russian Airlines, CSA Czech Airlines, Croatia Airlines and LOT Polish Airlines. RENT-A-CAR

Na stranici www.croatiaairlines.hr moæete rezervirati i kupiti zrakoplovnu kartu, rezervirati hotelski smjeπtaj i transfer, a novost je da vam avioprijevoznik u suradnji s partnerom CarTrawler nudi moguÊnost rezervacije kvalitetne usluge rent-a-cara. U ponudi su razliËita vozila viπe od 550 dobavljaËa na 28.000 lokacija u svijetu. Rezervacija vozila preko Croatijine internetske stranice jednostavna je, a plaÊanje sigurno. RENT-A-CAR

On our web site www.croatiaairlines.hr, you can reserve and purchase air tickets, book hotel accommodations and transfers, and as a novelty, in cooperation with our partner CarTrawler, you are now offered the possibility of booking top quality rent-a-car services. The offer includes access to various vehicles from more than 550 suppliers at 28,000 locations throughout the world. Booking a rental car via the Croatia Airlines internet page is simple and the payment is secure.

FOURTH BEST AIRLINE IN EASTERN EUROPE

INFORMIRAJTE SE MOBITELOM

According to Skytrax’s annual survey, World Airline Awards, on customer satisfaction

Kako bismo vam pomogli pri planiranju putovanja naπim zrakoplovima gdje se god na-

lazili, od rujna vam omoguÊavamo koriπtenje mobilnom verzijom naπe web stranice. Na posebno prilagoenoj stranici na adresi: m.croatiaairlines.com pronaÊi Êete korisne informacije u vezi s vaπim putovanjem zrakoplovom − ponude, status leta, red letenja, prijavu za let, poslovnice, prijevoz, prtljagu i Kontakt centar. U rubrici Zabava moæete preuzeti aplikacije za iPhone, iPad i Android, preuzeti fotograﬁ je zrakoplova za zaslon vaπeg mobitela, pogledati videospotove i posluπati glazbene zapise. GET INFORMATION ON YOUR MOBILE PHONE!

As of September, we offer you the option of using the mobile version of our web page to help you plan your trips via Croatia Airlines, wherever you are. On our customized page at m.croatiaairlines. com, you will find useful information regarding your flight − special offers, flight status, flight schedule, check-in, offices, transport, luggage and the Contact Center. In the Entertainment section, you can view video clips, listen to music, and.download applications for iPhone, iPad and Android, as well as wallpaper photos of airplanes for your mobile phone.

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Potaknuti projektom Okusi Hrvatske, odnosno pozitivnim reakcijama na novu uslugu koju vam od travnja nudimo na letu, predstavljamo vam Hrvoja IvekoviÊa, voditelja toga projekta i njegov NSC (New Service Concept) tim. Encouraged by the project, Flavours of Croatia, and the positive reactions to the new service offered on our ﬂights, as of April this year, we introduce you to Hrvoje IvekoviÊ, head of the project, his NSC (New Service Concept) team and the new service concept.

rvoje IvekoviÊ od 1995. godine zaposlen je u Croatia Airlinesu, najprije kao domaÊin zrakoplova, a zatim kao voditelj kabinske posade aviona ili purser i instruktor za servis, a u njegovu su timu Tonka StaniËiÊ (voditeljica kabinske posade aviona i instruktorica za servis), Vladimir Filakovac i Regina Anita Marjan (domaÊini zrakoplova i instruktori za servis), Jelena KneæeviÊ (voditeljica domaÊe nabave i opskrbe zrakoplova), Snjeæana BezmalinoviÊ (tehnolog), Anamarija Jurinjak (voditeljica promotivnih aktivnosti) i Gabrijela Lochert (specijalistica promocije). Proπle, 2011. godine, pokrenuta je inicijativa za promjenu servisa i NSC tim (New Service Concept/novi koncept usluge) poËeo je razvijati novi koncept usluge. Otprilike godinu dana tim je radio na konceptu novoga servisa, odræane su radionice s kabinskim osobljem, analizirani izvjeπtaji o zadovoljstvu putnika dotadaπnjom uslugom itd., te je na temelju razraenog plana tim poËeo s realizacijom projekta. Izabrali su belgijski deSter iz grupacije Gate Gourmet za dobavljaËa posua, jer raznovrsni topli obroci trebaju biti posluæeni u novome dizajnerskom posuu koje prati suvremene gastronomske trendove. ∑ Kako bismo uz novu ponudu obroka podignuli i razinu usluge u zrakoplovu, odluËili smo dodatno educirati domaÊice i domaÊine zrakoplova, te smo naπe instruktore za servis poslali na πkolovanje u uglednu πvicarsku πkolu za hotelski menadæment Ecole hôtelière de Lausanne i kompaniju PrivatAir − kaæe kolega IvekoviÊ. − U timu smo detaljno raspravljali o predstavljanju svake hrvatske regije. PoËeli smo s Istrom, a nastavili s Dalmacijom tijekom udarnih ljetnih mjeseci. Sada je na redu predstavljanje Hrvatskoga zagorja na naπim letovima. Pomno je odreen raspored predstavljanja krajeva. Uvijek nastojimo putnicima ponuditi hrvatska tradicionalna jela 158

pripremljena na suvremeniji naËin te stoga kao suradnike biramo chefove renomiranih restorana, koji veÊ u svojim restoranima nude takva jela. Dosad smo uspjeπno suraivali s restoranima San Rocco iz Brtonigle u Istri i Pelegrini iz ©ibenika. Kad naπ tim odabere restoran s kojim Êemo suraivati, chefovi educiraju kuhare koji za cateringe zraËnih luka Zagreb, Split i Dubrovnik pripremaju hranu. »lanovi tima takoer kontroliraju pripremu i posluæivanje hrane u poËetnoj fazi predstavljanja pojedine regije i tek kad kvaliteta i izgled obroka dosegne standard glavnog kuhara s kojim suraujemo, poËinjemo jelo posluæivati na letu. U suradnji s vinskim struËnjacima, a istaknuo bih Saπu ©piranca, takoer se pomno odabiru vina, te je u ponudi uvijek po jedno vrhunsko bijelo i crno vino iz odreenog kraja, a nastojimo ponuditi i kvalitetna maslinova ulja, karakteristiËne aperitive i digestive − dodaje Hrvoje IvekoviÊ. Nova usluga namijenjena je ponajprije putnicima poslovnog razreda na domaÊim i meunarodnim letovima. RuËak i veËera na

letovima koji traju viπe od 70 minuta posluæuju se u dva ili tri slijeda, a putnici uz obrok dobivaju i jelovnik te vinsku kartu. − OdluËili smo unaprijediti naπu uslugu na letu i podiÊi njezinu kvalitetu te smo se fokusirali na osjetilne uæitke bliske svakomu naπem putniku. Upravo stoga izabrali smo najreprezentativnije restorane za suradnju i nastojali prezentirati ljepote hrvatskih krajeva kroz enogastronomiju. − Naπa je prednost πto radimo u djelatnosti koja velikim koracima kroËi prema europskim standardima i Europskoj uniji. Vjerujemo kako smo novom uslugom, kojom se potiËe kultura osjetila, napravili iskorak, osuvremenili turistiËki repertoar u Hrvatskoj i uËinili ga speciﬁËnijim. S obzirom na to da je naπe Jadransko more najbliæe toplo i Ëisto more putnicima iz srediπnje Europe, nadamo se kako Êemo cjelovitom i osvjeæenom uslugom naπim putnicima pruæiti novi doæivljaj letenja i potaknuti ih na neke nove letove prema hrvatskim odrediπtima − zakljuËuje naša kolegica Gabrijela Lochert.

D. JanušiÊ

NSC tim/NSC team

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CROATIA AIRLINES

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Ovaj je projekt cjelovit, jer sastoji se od niza smislenih elemenata − probrane hrane i vina, posebno skladane glazbe, od tekstova i vrhunskih fotograﬁja u ovome putnom Ëasopisu te ﬁlma o regiji koji moæete pogledati na videosustavima u zrakoplovima − sloæili su se Ëlanovi naπega inovativnog i proaktivnog tima, u nadi kako Êete vi, dragi putnici, prepoznati njihov trud i uæivati na letovima Croatia Airlinesa. ■

Maslinova ulja više nisu trend. Znati MD¾SN N MIHL@ RSU@Q ID NOþD JTKSTQD /NMTC@ NKDNSDJD 4ID OQDCRS@UKI@ M@IANKID NC GQU@SRJD F@RSQNMNLHID (@JN ID QHIDý OQHID RUDF@ N NKDNSDBH C@JKD SQFNUHMH L@RKHMNUHL TKIHL@ NUCID LNÄDSD JTOHSH UQKN RSQNFN OQNAQ@MT RDKDJBHIT M@IANKIHG GQU@SRJHG OQNHYUNC@ .KHUD NHKR @QD MN KNMFDQ ITRS @ SQDMC 3N JMNV RNLDSGHMF @ANTS SGDL G@R ADBNLD @ L@SSDQ NE FDMDQ@K JMNVKDCFD 3GD OQNCTBSR VGHBG B@M AD ENTMC HM NTQ NKHUD NHK RGNO @QD SGD QDOQDRDMS@SHNM NE "QN@SH@M F@RSQNMNLX KSGNTFG SGHR HR OQHL@QHKX @M NKHUD NHK RGNO GDQD XNT B@M @KRN EHMC B@QDETKKX RDKDBSDC SNO PT@KHSX "QN@SH@M OQNCTBSR www.uje.hr

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rvoje IvekoviÊ has been employed at Croatia Airlines since 1995, ﬁrst as a cabin attendant and then as a purser, and service instructor. His team includes Tonka StaniËiÊ (purser and service instructor), Vladimir Filakovac and Regina Anita Marjan (cabin attendants and service instructors), Jelena KneæeviÊ (head of domestic procurement and aircraft supply), Snjeæana BezmalinoviÊ (technologist), Anamarija Jurinjak (head of promotional activities) and Gabrijela Lochert (promotion specialist). Last year on board changes were proposed and the NSC (New Service Concept) team started developing a new service concept. For about a year, the team worked on drafting a new service concept, organised workshops for the cabin crew, and analysed reports on customer satisfaction based on the existing service etc. Armed with an elaborate plan, the team took steps towards the realisation of this project. They selected Belgian deSter from the Gate Gourmet group as the supplier of dishware, so that various hot meals are now served in new designer dishes in line with contemporary trends in gastronomy. − In order to upgrade the level of overall on board service, in addition to the new menu, we decided to provide training to hosts and hostesses, so we sent our service instructors to a reputable Swiss school for hotel management, Ecole hôtelière de Lausanne, and the company PrivatAir, says IvekoviÊ. − Within our team, we had a detailed discussion about the presentation of each region in Croatia. We started with Istria, which was then followed by Dalmatia, during the peak summer months. Now is going on the presentation of the Croatian Zagorje on our ﬂights. The schedule for each region’s presentation has been carefully determined. We always try to offer passengers traditional Croatian meals prepared in a modern way, and that is why we collaborate with chefs who offer such food in their restaurants. So far, we have had a successful partnership with the San Rocco of Brtonigla restaurant in Istria and the Pelegrini restaurant in ©ibenik.

When our team selects a restaurant, we want to work with its chef, and conduct the training of staff responsible for catering at the airports in Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik. Members of the team also control the process of preparing and serving the meals during the first phase of presenting a particular region and only when the quality and the presentation of each meal reaches the chef’s standards, do we start offering it on our flights. With the help of oenologists, most of all, Saπa ©piranec, we carefully select the wines to be served. Our menu always includes a premium white and red wine from the region presented. We also offer high quality olive oils, as well as aperitifs and digestives characteristic of the region, adds Hrvoje IvekoviÊ. The new service is primarily aimed at business class travellers on both domestic and international flights. Lunch and dinner on flights, which are longer than 70 minutes, comprise two or three dishes, and our customers are then given a menu and wine list. − We have decided to improve our onboard service and upgrade its quality, which is why we have focused our attention on the sensual pleasures all our travellers are familiar with. We have selected the most prestigious restaurants to collaborate with and invested time and effort into presenting the beauties of each Croatian region through enogastronomy. − Our advantage lies in the fact that we are in a line of business which takes long strides towards meeting European standards and those of the European Union. We believe that with this new service, which develops the appreciation of using one’s senses, we have stepped out of the norm and modernized the tourist package in Croatia by making it more country specific. Since our Adriatic coast is the closest and cleanest warm water sea for travellers from Central Europe, we hope that such a comprehensive and refreshing service will give them a new travel experience and encourage them to fly to Croatian destinations again, concludes our colleague Gabrijela Lochert. − This project is different than other similar projects in Europe and the world, because it is comprehensive and comprises several complementary elements − carefully selected food and wines, specially-composed music, related texts and top-quality photographs in our inflight magazine, and a film about each region, which you can watch during your flight. All members of our innovative and proactive team agree hope that you, dear passengers, will recognise their efforts and enjoy the flight on board Croatia Airlines. ■

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Croatia Airlines nagrauje autora najoriginalnije fotografije.

Krešimir Grilec

Fotografirajte i otputujte Letite Croatia Airlinesom, fotografirajte i osvojite zrakoplovne karte. Autor najoriginalnije fotografije bit Êe nagraen dvjema povratnim meunarodnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa.

Zaπto volite putovati ? Budite kreativni. Fotografijom i jednom reËenicom izrazite zaπto volite putovanja. Najbolju fotografiju izabrat Êe Sluæba promotivnih aktivnosti Croatia Airlinesa, a fotografiju Êemo objaviti u sljedeÊem broju putnog Ëasopisa. Crno-bijele, fotografije u boji ili dijapozitive dostavite do 10. studenoga 2012. godine na adresu: Croatia Airlines, Sluæba promotivnih aktivnosti, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, Hrvatska. Ne zaboravite priloæiti kupon s dna stranice.

" g.

ga

gica

Uvjeti nagradne igre: - fotografije postaju vlasniπtvo Croatia Airlinesa - Croatia Airlines ne preuzima nikakvu odgovornost u sluËaju gubitka materijala - Croatia Airlines zadræava pravo koriπtenja fotografija u promidæbenim materijalima Croatia Airlinesa bez naknade - nagrada ne moæe biti zamijenjena za novac - djelatnici Croatia Airlinesa te Ëlanovi njihove uæe obitelji nemaju pravo sudjelovanja u nagradnoj igri

Croatia Airlines is rewarding the author of the most original photograph.

Nathalie Verreyt

Take a photo and travel

Fly Croatia Airlines, take photographs and win two air tickets. The winner will receive 2 Croatia Airlines international round trip tickets.

Why do you love to travel ? Be creative. In one sentence and a single photograph express why you love to travel. Selection of the most original photograph will be made by the Croatia Airlines Promotion Department and the photograph will be published in the next issue of our inflight magazine. You should send us your B/W or color photographs and/or slides by 10th November 2012 to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Promotion Department, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, Croatia. Do not forget to include the coupon from the page bottom.

" Mr.

Mrs.

Miss.

NAME SURNAME DATE OF BIRTH ADDRESS POSTAL CODE CITY COUNTRY TEL. NO. E-MAIL Conditions for participation: - photographs become the property of Croatia Airlines - Croatia Airlines does not assume any responsibility in case of the possible loss of the material - Croatia Airlines reserves the right to use the material in the Croatia Airlines promotional activities and materials, without an additional payment. - reward cannot be exchanged for money - employees of Croatia Airlines as well as the members of their immediate families, are not allowed to participate

Miles & More Broj leta/ Flight number

TrenutaËni let/Current flight Broj karte/Document number

Klasa knjiæenja/ Booking class

Datum polaska/Date of departure Linija (npr. Frankfurt–Pariz)/Route (e.g. Frankfurt–Paris)

Adresa (molimo vas da navedete samo jednu adresu)/ Address (please state only one address) ga/Ms

g./Mr

Titula/Title

Telefon/Telephone

KuÊna/ Home Ime/First name

Poslovna/ Business Prezime/Surname

Ulica i broj/Street and number

Poπtanski pretinac/PO Box

Grad/Town

Razred putovanja/ Service class Economy Class Business Class First Class

Dræava/Country

Molimo vas da unesete ime kompanije/Please enter name of company here

Poπtanski broj/Postcode

Datum roenja/Date of birth Dan/ Mjesec/ Day Month

Godina/ Year

Odjel/Department

Mobilni telefon/Mobile number Privatni/ Home

Poslovni/ Business

Ovime potvrujem* da od sljedeÊih (dolje oznaËenih) kompanija æelim primati SMS poruke s vaænim i najnovijim informacijama u vezi s mojim letom tijekom putovanja. /I hereby give my permission* for the following listed companies (ticked below) to send me important and up-to-date information regarding my travel itinerary by SMS during my travels. Deutsche Lufthansa AG, kompanija iz koncerna Lufthansa ili kompanije koje sudjeluju u programu Miles & More (ukljuËujuÊi Croatia Airlines) Deutsche Lufthansa AG, a company of the Lufthansa Group or joint operators of the Miles & More programme (including Croatia Airlines)

Drugi partneri programa Miles & More Other Miles & More partner corporations

e-mail adresa/E-mail address Privatna/ Home

Poslovna/ Business

Ovime potvrujem* da od sljedeÊih (dolje oznaËenih) kompanija æelim elektronskom poπtom primati obavijesti o ponudama, promocijama, novim uslugama i drugim zanimljivim temama vezanima uz Lufthansu, grupu Lufthansa i partnerske kompanije. /I hereby give my permission* for the following listed companies (ticked below) to send me information by e-mail about offers, promotions, new services and other interesting topics from Lufthansa, the Lufthansa Group, as well as partner corporations. Deutsche Lufthansa AG, kompanija iz koncerna Lufthansa ili kompanije koje sudjeluju u programu Miles & More (ukljuËujuÊi Croatia Airlines) Drugi partneri programa Miles & More Deutsche Lufthansa AG, a company of the Lufthansa Group or joint operators of the Miles & More programme (including Croatia Airlines) Other Miles & More partner corporations

Uvjete Ëlanstva u programu Miles & More moæete pronaÊi na web stranicama www.miles-and-more.com ili www.lufthansa.com. Ova vas prijava ne obvezuje ni na koji naËin. Ne budete li viπe htjeli primati obavijesti o naπim posebnim ponudama, u svakom trenutku moæete povuÊi pristanak za koriπtenje vaπih osobnih podataka u promotivne svrhe pozivom na telefonski broj + 49-1805-5959 (€0.12/min. preko fiksne mreæe u NjemaËkoj) * Znam da dopuπtenje dano Deutsche Lufthansi AG mogu povuÊi u svakom trenutku.

Poljski/ Polish

Japanski/ Japanese

Conditions of participation in our Frequent Flyer Programme Miles & More can be obtained on request on the Internet at www.miles-and-more.com and www.lufthansa.com This registration places you under no obligation. If you no longer wish to receive our special offers, you can withdraw your permission to use your personal information for advertising purposes by contacting us on +49 -18 05 - 59 59 (€ 0.12/min. from a German landline). * I am aware that I can revoke this permission from Deutsche Lufthansa AG at any time.

Odabrani naËin komunikacije za Miles & More News i izvjeπtaj o stanju milja na raËunu/Preferred means of communication for Miles & More News and Miles & More account statements: Elektronski/ Poπtom/ Online Post

POU01

Jezik za komunikaciju/Preferred correspondence language Francuski/ Talijanski/ Engleski/ NjemaËki/ French Italian English German

Datum/Date

Potpis/Signature

Jednostavno je prijaviti se za Ëlanstvo: • preko interneta na web stranici www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • poπtom • telefaksom na broj +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 • kod osoblja u zrakoplovu Bit Êe nam zadovoljstvo ubiljeæiti vam milje za trenutaËni let kao i za bilo koji drugi let koji ste ostvarili u posljednjih 6 mjeseci s Croatia Airlinesom, kompanijom Lufthansa ili nekim drugim partnerom u programu. Molimo vas da gore unesete podatke o trenutaËnom letu. Retroaktivno ubiljeæavanje milja za druge letove moæete zatraæiti na stranici www.miles-and-more.com. Molimo vas da uvijek Ëuvate originalnu kartu za ulazak u zrakoplov (boarding pass) i kopiju putne karte dok vam se milje ne ubiljeæe na raËun.

It’s so easy to register: • Online at www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • By fax +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200

• By post • With one of your flight attendants

We will be happy to credit your account with the miles for this flight and for any other flights taken in the last 6 months with Croatia Airlines, Lufthansa or another Miles & More partner. Enter your current flight above. To have the miles for the other flights credited to your account, go to www.miles-and-more.com. Please retain your original boarding card and passenger receipt (copy of your ticket) until the miles have been credited to your account.

Razred putovanja/ Service class

Klasa knjiæenja/ Booking class

Miles & More – veÊ sad poËnite prikupljati milje

Broj leta/ Flight number

Broj karte/

Miles & More – start collecting miles now

Document number

LUFTPOST

Prostor za marku.

PAR AVION PRIORITAIRE

Please affix stamp here.

RÉPONSE PUBLICITAIRE/ANTWORT ALLEMAGNE Miles & More Postfach 14 34 33309 Gütersloh ALLEMAGNE

»im se poËnete koristiti svojom privremenom karticom Miles & More, milje Êe vam se biljeæiti na raËun. Molimo vas da pri svakoj rezervaciji navedete broj svoje kartice Miles & More. Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. Milje za danaπnji let bit Êe vam ubiljeæene na raËun ako na prednju stranu unesete sve potrebne podatke o letu.

Ime/First name

Miles will start landing in your account immediately after you start to use your temporary Miles & More Card. Please remember to state your personal Miles & More number every time you make a reservation. You will receive your proper Miles & More Card once you have collected one mile.

Prezime/Surname

We will credit the miles for your current flight to your account once you have provided all the details of the current flight on the front.

Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. We will send you your regular Miles & More Card as soon as you have earned one mile.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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Miles & More

Osnove Miles & More programa

Introducing Miles & More

Miles & More najveÊi je program nagraivanja putnika u Europi i nudi Ëlanovima ra zliËite moguÊnosti prikupljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih par tnera u programu. Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija par tnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kar tica Miles & More.

Miles & More is the greatest frequent ﬂyer programme in Europe offering its members numerous possibilities for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many attractive privileges. Members collect miles by using the services of many partners in the programme. Miles are credited for ﬂights of all Star Alliance members and other airline partners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car partners or staying in participating hotels.

Zatraæite svoju Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditnu kar ticu! n 5 kuna = 1 milja - za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko ove kar tice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja n Dvostruke milje - osvajate za plaÊa nje turistiË kih aranæmana i zrakoplovnih karata u Diners Club Travelu n Prikupljajte nagrad ne milje svuda - jed nostav no plaÊajte svojom Diners Club kar ticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu.

Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card! n 5 HRK = 1 mile - for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile. n Earn double miles - for paying package tours and ﬂight tickets at Diners Club Travel n Collect award miles ever ywhere - simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC ofﬁces in Croatia or abroad

162

CROATIA AIRLINES

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Osvojite joπ viπe milja - koriπtenje ostalih pogodnosti Diners Cluba poput besplatnih online usluga, e-plaÊanja ili trajnih naloga donosi vam dodatne milje. n 2 kar tice - 1 raËun Miles & More - koristite se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom kar ticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More.

n Collect extra award miles - by using other Diners Club beneﬁts, such as free online services, internet banking and e-paying, standing orders etc. n 2 credit cards - 1 Miles & More membership account - use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account.

Zatražite svoju kreditnu karticu VISA Croatia Airlines! Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club objavili su, osim companion kreditnih karica (poslovnih i privatnih), i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potroπnja od 14 kuna na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu milju Miles & More, a za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu se preko kartica u paru dobiva 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card! Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club have issued, besides a companion credit card (both business and private), a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Zatra æite svoju kreditnu kar ticu Croatia Airlines American Express! n 4 kune = 1 nagradna milja - za svake 4 kune potroπene preko Premium kar tice biljeæi se 1 nagradna milja, odnosno za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko Standard kar tice n 2500 milja dobrodoπlice - za nove osnovne Premium korisnike i 1250 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Premium korisnike n 1500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard korisnike i 750 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Standard korisnike n Dvostruke nagradne milje - za potroπnju u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i Jumbo Travel Ser vices PBZ Carda n UËlanjenje u Priority Pass bez naknade te pristup u viπe od 450 VIP salona u zraËnim lukama

Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express credit card! n 4 HRK = 1 award mile - for every 4 HRK spent via Premium card, you collect 1 award mile, and for every 5 HRK spent via Standard card you collect 1 mile. n 2.500 welcome miles - for new basic Premium card users and 1.250 welcome miles for new additional Premium card users. n 1.500 welcome miles - for new basic Standard card users and 750 welcome miles for new additional Standard card users. n Earn double award miles - using the card to pay for travels at Croatia Airlines sales ofﬁces and Jumbo Travel Services of PBZ Card. n Free Priority Pass enrollment- it enables you to access into more than 450 VIP airport lounges

Razredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti Koriπtenjem usluga par tnera u programu prikupljate nagradne milje koje zamjenjujete za nagrade i statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status i pogodnosti πto ih ostvarujete. Statusne milje prikupljaju se redovitim letovima sljedeÊih zrakoplovnih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Luf thansa Regional i Luf thansa Private Jet), SWISS i svi zrakoplovni par tneri iz mreæe Star Alliance, Air Dolomiti i Luxair. Svaka tako ostvarena milja biljeæi se i kao statusna i kao nagradna milja. Milje HON Circle statusne su milje koje se prikupljaju letovima sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Austrian Air lines, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Luf thansa (ukljuËujuÊi Luf thansa Regional i Luf thansa Private Jet), Luxair i Swiss International Airlines. Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendarskoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller, a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini oËe ku je vas status Se nator. »la novi koji prikupe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u ra zdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalendarske godine, stjeËu status HON Circle.

Tiers and benefits By using the Miles & More partners’ services members collect award miles, which are traded in for awards; and status miles, which determine a member’s membership status and privileges. Status miles can be accrued on scheduled flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, all Star Alliance partners, Air Dolomiti and Luxair. Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status and an award mile. HON Circle miles are status miles that you collect on flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), Luxair and Swiss International Airlines. With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year members earn the Frequent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, earn the HON Circle status.

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Pogodnosti statusa Frequent Traveller - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja na zaista prijeeni ili standardni iznos za letove sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Lufthansa Regional i Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Airways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair i Continental. - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - uporaba Lufthansa Business Class Loungea prilikom letova s nekom od Ëlanica Star Alliancea - prednost na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog razreda - 40 kg prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji Ako je rijeË o komadnom prijevozu prtljage, 2 komada u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu, a tri u prvom razredu putovanja

Frequent Traveller privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent on the actual flown miles or standard mileage amounts on flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Airways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair and Continental. - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Use of the Lufthansa Business Class Lounges while flying with a Star Alliance Member - Waiting list priority - Check-in at the Lufthansa Business Class counter - Free baggage allowance of 40 kg depending on the destination and the airline If piece concept is applicable 2 bags in total (Economy or Business) and 3 bags in the First Class

Pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - predujam od 50.000 milja - uporaba Lufthansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold Lounge partnera u Star Allianceu - viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog razreda - osigurano mjesto na letu za rezervacije do 48 sati odnosno do 72 sata unaprijed, ovisno o razredu putovanja - 50 posto manje milja za suputnika na nagradnom letu, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dodatnih 20 kg ili dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonomskom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu - dva elektroniËka vauËera za premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), te joπ dva za svako zadræavanje statusa - Senator Premium Award

Senator privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - 50,000 miles in advance - Access to the Lufthansa Senator Lounge as well as to the Star Gold Lounges of Star Alliance partners - High waiting list priority - First Class check-in - Booking guarantee up to 48 or 72 hours in advance depending on the booking class - A 50 per cent mile age discount for an ac companying per son on ﬂ ig ht awar ds depending on the airline - Ad di ti o nal 20 kg bagga ge al lowan ce or an addi ti o nal bag depending on the destination and the airline - Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and 4 in the First Class - 2 electronic upgrade vouchers and two more for every status retention - Senator Premium Award

Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle - sve pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus od 25 posto - predujam od 100.000 milja - Status Senator za supruænika ili partnera, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dva elektroniËka vauËera za premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), te dva prigodom zadræavanja statusa - dodatne pogodnosti koje nude partneri programa osiguravajuÊi jedinstveno iskustvo putovanja - komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonomskom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu

HON Circle privileges - All existing Senator privileges - Executive bonus of 25 per cent - 100,000 miles in advance - Senator status for your spouse or partner depending on the airline - 2 electronic Upgrade Vouchers and 2 more for every status retention - Additional beneﬁts offered by Miles & More partners, rounding off the travel experience - Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and 4 in the First Class

Troπite milje Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge nagrade: nagradne karte, premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), razliËite nagrade kojima se moæete koristiti pri putovanju (hotelski smjeπtaj, unajmljivanje vozila). Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com

Spend miles You can exchange collected award miles for awards prepared for you: award tickets, upgrades, various travel awards. You can ﬁnd more at: www.miles-and-more.com

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U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU RED SJEDENJA Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo.

RU»NA PRTLJAGA

PO©TOVANI PUTNICI! Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima. Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije. UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi.

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Sva Ëekirana prtljaga mora imati putnikovo ime. Besplatne oznake za prtljagu mogu se dobiti u svim prodajnim uredima Croatia Airlinesa. Oznaku za prtljagu stavite i unutar prtljage. Sve vrijedne stvari i predmete nosite sa sobom u zrakoplov. Osobnu ruËnu prtljagu odloæite iznad svojeg sjedala ili ispod njega, tako da teæi komadi idu ispod, a lakπi iznad, a da istodobno ne smeta drugim putnicima i posadi zrakoplova. UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima. PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja. Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta.

mogu se rabiti sve vrijeme: sluπni aparati, ugraeni medicinski aparati, elektroniËki satovi, elektroniËki stimulatori æivaca. ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva. USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U zrakoplovu raspolaæemo razliËitim vrstama alkoholnih i bezalkoholnih piÊa, kojima Êe vas stjuardese posluæiti zajedno s jelom. Prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed, moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka (oznaka: SPML), kao npr. vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed. Ako ste naruËili poseban obrok, molimo vas da o tome na vrijeme izvijestite osoblje. Putnicima nije dopušteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Osoblje zrakoplova neÊe posluæiti alkoholna piÊa alkoholiziranim putnicima. Prije slijetanja osoblje Êe ukloniti sve πalice i Ëaπe. Puπenje nije dopuπteno tijekom cijelog leta, a u toaletima postoje i detektori za dim, koji se aktiviraju u sluËaju puπenja. MEDICINSKA POMOΔ U zrakoplovu imamo priruËnu ljekarnu sa svim potrebnim lijekovima za prvu pomoÊ (s lijekovima protiv bolova, ﬂasterima i ostalim osnovnim medicinskim sredstvima). Za medicinsku pomoÊ obratite se kabinskom osoblju.

UPORABA TELEFONSKIH NAPRAVA

SKY - SHOP

Sadaπnje odredbe zabranjuju uporabu odreenih prenosivih elektroniËkih naprava tijekom komercijalnih letova, zbog moguÊnosti ometanja navigacijske i komunikacijske opreme. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa zabranjena je uporaba ovih elektroniËkih naprava: prijenosnih telefona, komercijalnih dvovalnih prijenosnika (npr. walkie talkie); amaterskih prijenosnih ureaja; CB prijenosnih ureaja: prijenosnih ureaja koji emitiraju RF energiju na odreenoj frekvenciji, perifernih ureaja za raËunala ili igre. Ovi se ureaji mogu rabiti kad zrakoplov nije na pisti, uzletu, poËetnom penjanju, prilazu ili fazama slijetanja: osobna raËunala (periferni ureaji kao πto su πtampaËi, vanjski disc driveovi itd. nisu dopuπteni); osobna raËunala s igrama, VHF skenerski prijamnici; CD diskovi; kasetofoni, videorekorderi; kalkulatori. SljedeÊi ureaji

U avionu moæete kupiti bescarinsku robu. Što se tiËe cijena, obratite se domaÊici zrakoplova. Roba se moæe platiti u sljedeÊim konvertibilnim valutama: euro, ameriËki dolar, funta, πvicarski franak i u nacionalnoj valuti kunama, te sljedeÊim karticama: Diners, Visa, American Express i EuroMaster Card. Zbog teæine aviona ili trenutaËnog nedostatka prostora ponuda moæe biti ograniËena, pa vas molimo da to uzmete u obzir. ■ DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our ﬁrst and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken

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ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests. With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services. Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inflight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr Please read the instructions below, impor-tant for your safety and comfort during the flight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your flight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the flight. USE OF ELECTRONIC DEVICES Current regulations prohibit the use of certain types of portable electronic devices (PFDs) on board commercial flights, due to potential interference with navigational and communications equipment. On Croatia Airlines’ flights it is prohibited to use the following electronic devices: cellular telephones,

ﬁrearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers.

SERVICE ON BOARD Both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are available on board and are served with your meal. If you wish to order a special kind of meal such as vegeterian, dietary etc., you can do so when buying your ticket but must be 24 hours in advance. Kosher meals should be ordered 48 hours in advance. Make sure that your ﬂight attendant is aware that you have ordered a special meal. Passengers are prohibited from consuming their own alcoholic beverages on board.

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking flights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in. SEAT ASSIGNMENT Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing. BAGGAGE All checked-in baggage must have the passen-ger’s name on the outside. Free identification cards are available at all OU ticket offices. We suggest that you place an identification tag inside your luggage as well. Carry all valuable and important items with you on the plane. Hand luggage must be stowed under the passenger seat or in the overhead compartment - heavy pieces below and lighter above the seat - in a way not to disturb other passengers or the cabin crew. SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole flight.

commercial two-way transmitters (e. g., walkie-talkies); amateur radio transmitters; Citizen Band (CB) transmitters; 49-MHz transmitters, devices designed to radiate RF energy on a speciﬁc frequency; peripheral devices for computers or computer games. The following devices may be used when the aircraft is not in the taxiing, take-off, initial climb, approach or landing phases: personal computers (cable-connected peripheral devices such as printers, external disc drives, etc. are not permitted); personal computer games, VHS scanner receivers; compact disc players; cassette tape players; video recorders; calculators. The following may be operated at all times: hearing aids, implanted medical devices, electronic watches, electronic nerve stimulators.

The cabin crew are instructed to discontinue ser-ving passengers who appear to be intoxicated. All cups and glasses will be removed from the passenger areas prior to take-off and landing. Smoking is not permitted on any of Croatia Airlines’ ﬂights. A fresh air vent and smoke detectors are located in toilletes and will be activated if smoking.

MEDICAL AID Painkillers, Band Aid and other essential medical items are kept on the aircraft. Ask your ﬂight attendant should you need any assistance.

SKY SHOP RESTRICTED ITEMS The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage. Such items are: explosives, ﬂammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons,

Duty free goods can be paid for in major currencies such as: Euro, US Dollar, British Pounds, Swiss Franks and national currency Kuna, whilst Diners, Visa, American Express and Euro-Master Card are also welcome. ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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Wherever my photo shoot, I can earn miles, and spend them taking my family with me. Across 27 airlines, all on one card. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve earned it.

A n n i e G r i f f i th s, Nati ona l Geog ra ph i c Photog ra pher a n d S ta r A l l i a n ce Go l d S tatu s

staralliance.com

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FLOTA

FLEET Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 Ëine naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m /ft )

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

162/164

144

Airbus 320-200 Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Airbus 319-100 Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Dash 8-Q400 Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking. CROATIA AIRLINES

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A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

USA NEW YORK WASHINGTON CHARLOTTE PHILADELPHIA

St. Petersburg Aberdeen Edinburg

Belfast Dublin

Manchester

Chisinau Lyon

Turin

Porto

Venice

Genoa Madrid

Rijeka

Osijek Belgrade

Bucharest

BraË Barcelona

Bari

Palermo Catania

Athens

Tel Aviv

Partneri / Partners:

Brussels Airlines

US Airways CROATIA AIRLINES

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ZAGREB CARD ZAGREB CARD offers you unlimited travel on public transport, discounts at virtually all of the city museums, reduced prices at many restaurants, shops, and much more that makes ZAGREB CARD an irreplaceable travel companion in Zagreb. ZAGREB CARD iz valid for 72 hours and it costs 90 kn or if you prefer 24 hours then it costs only 60 kn! ZAGREB CARD is avaliable online at www.zagrebcard. Â˝vestars.hr or in most Zagreb hotels as well as Tourist Information Centres.

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ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

ZAGREB AIRPORT

Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21

International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

2 Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7

Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike

P C

Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A”

Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima

Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”

B S B

Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte

TAKSI BUS

CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije

Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

Restaurant Faust VranËiÊ

Panoramic View Panoramski pogled

Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila

Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica

Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica

Coffee Bar Kavana

Flight Information Informacije o letovima

Customs Control Carinska kontrola

Bar

Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije

Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina

Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks)

Newstand Novinarnica

Baggage Prtljaga

Passport Control Kontrola putovnica

Shops Prodavaonice

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.

5.00 9.00 13.30 17.30

U DUBROVNIKU autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 75 minuta prije leta. Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova.

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 8.00 8.30 9.00 9.30 10.30 11.30 12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30 14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30 16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30 18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30 20.00

In DUBROVNIK airport buses leave 90 minutes before the ﬂight, and in ZADAR 75 minutes before the ﬂight. The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing.

Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) - Zagreb (zraËna luka) - Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) Rijeka - Polazak u 15.30 sati.

Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) - Zagreb Airport - Departure at 5.00. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport - Rijeka - Departure at 15.30.

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb: Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb: 5.30 10.00 14.00 18.00

6.00 10.30 14.30 18.30

6.30 11.00 15.00 19.00

7.00 11.30 15.30 19.30

7.30 12.00 16.00 20.00

8.00 12.30 16.30

8.30 13.00 17.00

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, 098 472-539, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn. The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas. Autobusi iz ZAGREBA polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova. Bus departures in ZAGREB are an hour and a half prior for domestic ﬂights and two hours prior for international ﬂights.

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Nelia Annandale

Prekrasnim fotografijama koje svaki dan primamo pribliæavate nam ljepote razliËitih odrediπta i zahvalni smo vam na tome. Pozivamo vas da posebne trenutke, gdje god se nalazite, podijelite s nama jer tako i vaπa putovanja i doæivljaji traju dulje. Poπaljite nam svoje fotografije i sudjelujte u naπem nagradnom natjeËaju. Glavna su nagrada dvije povratne zrakoplovne karte Croatia Airlinesa za odrediπte po vaπem izboru i poklon-paketi. Fotografiju Aide Herceg odabrali smo kao najbolju u ovome broju te autoricu nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa. Promidžbenim poklon-paketom nagradit Êemo Elizabeth Campion i Neliju Annandale. Pozivamo vas da nam nastavite slati svoje fotografije jer vas i u iduÊem broju oËekuju vrijedne nagrade. Smisao je putovanja vidjeti i doæivjeti svijet, ali i da svijet vidi nas. The purpose of travelling is to see and experience the world, but also to let the world see you.

Dear passengers,

Nevenka Lisica

Your wonderful photos, which we receive day after day, bring us closer to the beauties of various destinations and we are grateful to you for that. We invite you to share your special moments with us, wherever you travel, because this way your travels and experiences last longer. Send us your photos and take part in our contest. The ﬁrst prize winner will receive two return tickets on Croatia Airlines to a destination of your choice and promotional packages. We have selected Aida Herceg as the author of the best photo in this issue; she is the winner of two Croatia Airlines return air tickets. Elizabeth Campion and Nelia Annandale have won our promotional packages. We would like to encourage you to continue sending us your photos because valuable awards await you in the next issue as well. Volim putovati jer otkrivam svijet i samoga sebe. I like travelling because I discover both the world and myself.

Putovanjem ostvarujem svoje maπtarije! Travelling makes my daydreams come true!

Gordana Grilec

Siniπa Dudaπek

Putovanjem ostvarujem svoje maπtarije! Travelling makes my daydreams come true!

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Putovanje me vraÊa Ëistim zadovoljstvima djetinjstva − radoznalosti, Ëuenju i veselju. Travelling brings me back to the pure pleasures of childhood − wonder, amazement and joy.

Inna Shcherbakova

Elena Kolozetti

WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL?

Ono mi omoguÊuje da iskusim æivot u svoj njegovoj raznovrsnosti i ljepoti, tako da æivim u sadaπnjosti i uæivam u svakom trenutku koji je jedinstven i nezaboravan. It lets me experience life in all its diversity and beauty, by staying in the present and enjoying every unique and unforgettable moment.

Iznad svega to znaËi vidjeti u stvarnosti ono o Ëemu sanjam. Above all, it’s about seeing my dreams become a reality.

Aida Herceg - Prva nagrada/First prize

Angela Una Stockbridge

Volim putovati jer putovanja omoguÊuju da svijet oko sebe spoznam iz novih perspektiva. I love to travel because it enables me to see the world around me from new perspectives.

Dom je ondje gdje je srce i ja svoje srce svaki put iznova otkrijem u nekom kutku svemira, u drugaËijim mirisima i okusima, u osmjesima ljudi koje upoznajem. Home is where the heart is. I rediscover my heart, over and over again, in different corners of the world, in various scents and ﬂavours and in the smiles of the people I meet.

Stephanie Mamelin

Putovanje je poput okusa æivota - uvijek æelite istraæiti neπto novo i uzbudljivo. Travelling is like the ﬂavours of life - you are constantly wanting to explore new and exciting varieties.

Elizabeth Campion

Cassandra Tsaknis

Nikad ne znate koji Êe neoËekivani prekrasni pogled postati vrijedna uspomena. You never know what beautiful sight will unexpectedly become a cherished memory.

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ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 616-01-53 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/ugd@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 062-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 *500 za p ozive iz mob ilne mr eže Hr vatske pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 18:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept. Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 062 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Brojevi telefonskog check-ina / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam WTC, Tower B, Level 4, Schiphol Boulevard 207, 1118 BH Luchthaven Schiphol Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Fax (+31-20) 316-42-81 amsto@croatiaairlines.hr BeË / Wien Airport Office Objekt / Building 645, Room 115-116, A-1300 Wien Flughafen Tel. (+43-1) 7007 359-62 Fax (+43-1) 7007 359-63 vieap@croatiaairlines.hr Bruxelles Brussels Airport Box 31, 1930 Zaventem Airport office: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5133 Airport counter: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik ZraËna luka, Airport Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, 60 313 Frankfurt, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London Concorde North Wing Gatwick Airport Rooms 330/331A West Sussex RH6 0DW Tel. (+44-20) 8563-00-22, 0844 3710 310 (UK only) Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615

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ADDRESSES Airport Heathrow, Room 531, Terminal 1, Zone H Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-46-83 Fax (+44-20) 8754-73-77 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr München Flughafen Franz Josef-Strauss, Terminal 2, Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Büro B.4.1322, 85 356 München, Tel. (+49-89) 97-592-730/731 Fax (+49-89) 97-592-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr Paris Roissypôle, Le Dôme 1, 3th ﬂoor Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France 95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-4000 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-5511 parto@croatiaairlines.hr Pula ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-52) 218-909 (+385-52) 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5, 51 000 Rijeka, Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma ZraËna luka, Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci Torre Ufﬁci 2, Room 518 00054 Fiumicino Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo ZraËna luka Sarajevo, Airport Khurta Schorka 36, 71 210 Sarajevo, Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skoplje ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 2561 850 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split Obala hrv. nar. preporoda 9, 21 000 Split, Tel. (+385-21) 362-997, 362-055 (komercijala) Fax (+385-21) 362-567 sputo@croatiaairlines.hr ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb Zrinjevac 17, 10 000 Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 48-19-633 Fax (+385-1) 48-19-632 ZraËna luka Zagreb, Zagreb Airport, 10 150 Zagreb, Pleso Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-585 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Zürich Limmatquai 138, 8001 Zürich, Tel. (+41-44) 261-08-40 Fax (+41-44) 261-08-83 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr

Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe Crna Gora / OKI AIR MONTENEGRO d.o.o. Ivana VujoševiÊa 46, 81 000 Podgorica Montenegro Tel. (+382-20) 201-201 Tel./Fax (+382-20) 241-154 »eπka CK Blue Sky Travel Na Perštýne 1, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. (+420-2) 2222-2235 Fax (+420-2) 2222-0237 GrËka / Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str. 105 57 Athens, Greece Tel. (+30-210) 32-17-679, 32-17-750 Fax (+30-210) 32-49-152 Kosovo Airtour Head Office: St. Luan Haradinaj #27 10031 Prishtina, Kosovo Tel. (+381-38) 233-833 Fax (+381-38) 245-845 Airport Office: Prishtina International Airport Tel. (+381-38) 594-111 Fax (+381-38) 594-222 Portugal / Global Portugal Representacoes (GRT) Rua Castilho, N˚ 5 − 1˚ andar, Sala 18 1250-066 Lisboa, Portugal Tel. (+351-21) 351-2982 Fax (+351-21) 351-2988 SlovaËka / CK Blue Sky Travel 1. poschodie, Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel. (+421) 5262 2375 Španjolska / Global Representacion Turistica (GRT) c/Valencia, 266, 4/1a 08007 Barcelona Tel. (+34-934) 875-775 Fax (+34-934) 880-121 Turska / ZENITH Services Head Office: Ordu Caddesi, No. 206/1, Laleli 34134 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 513-2667 Fax (+90-212) 512-4234 Airport Office: Istanbul Ataturk Airport International Terminal Departure Floor Yesilkoy 34149 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 465-50-23, 465-40-92 Fax (+90-212) 465-40-92 Bliski istok / Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda St., Migdalor blgd. 12th Floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. (+972-3) 516-7181, 516-7140 Fax (+972-3) 516-7174 SAD / USA Networld Inc. / Croatia America 300 Lanidex Plaza, Parsippany NJ 07054, Tel. (+1-973) 884-3401 Fax (+1-973) 428-3929 Toll free 888-462-7628 Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. (+61-3) 9699-9355 Fax (+61-3) 9699-9388 Novi Zeland / New Zealand Croatia Times Limited Ltd. NZ PO Box 104-056; Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Road, Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. (+64-9) 837-9897 Fax (+64-9) 837-9898 Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo 105-0001 Japan Tel. (+81-3) 3593-6740 Fax (+81-3) 3593-6534

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STAY BALANCED Experience Zagrebâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique blend of old-world charm and youthful vibe. From its enchanting Upper Town, green parks and picturesque open-air markets, to a multitude of restaurants, cafĂŠs, theatres, museums and galleries, the City will provide you with the ideal setting to recover your balance. The irresistibly healthful offerings at The Westin Zagreb allow you to indulge in the pure joys of deliciously wholesome food, revitalizing activities, and amazingly restful sleep. The perfect venue in an ideal setting - what more can one ask for? Model your unforgettable experience with one of our fantastic special offers! ` ,:HI>C (I6N 6A6C8:9 ,:AAC:HH E68@6<: ` ,:HI>C ':C:L6A E68@6<: ` (I6N É&#x192; C><=IH Q (6K: É&#x192;É FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION, VISIT WESTINZAGREB.COM OR WESTIN.COM/ZAGREB, CALL + 385 1 4892 058, OR SIMPLY E-MAIL US AT WESTINRES.ZAGREB@WESTIN.COM

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