CROATIA PUTNI »ASOPIS n
INFLIGHT MAGAZINE
P U T N I
» A S O P I S
J E S E N JESEN
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VLASTITI
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I N F L I G H T
A U T U M N
PRIMJERAK
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AUTUMN 2013
STAY BALANCED Experience Zagrebâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique blend of old-world charm and youthful vibe. From its enchanting Upper Town, green parks and picturesque open-air markets, to a multitude of restaurants, cafĂŠs, theatres, museums and galleries, the City will provide you with the ideal setting to recover your balance. The irresistibly healthful offerings at The Westin Zagreb allow you to indulge in the pure joys of deliciously wholesome food, revitalizing activities, and amazingly restful sleep. The perfect venue in an ideal setting - what more can one ask for? Model your unforgettable experience with one of our fantastic special offers! ` ,:HI>C (I6N 6A6C8:9 ,:AAC:HH E68@6<: ` ,:HI>C ':C:L6A E68@6<: ` (I6N É&#x192; C><=IH Q (6K: É&#x192;É FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION, VISIT WESTINZAGREB.COM OR WESTIN.COM/ZAGREB, CALL + 385 1 4892 058, OR SIMPLY E-MAIL US AT WESTINRES.ZAGREB@WESTIN.COM
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Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Krešimir KuËko Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ Urednik fotografije/Chief in photos Damir FabijaniÊ Roman Gebauer, Miljen Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ PrliÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ Direktorica marketinga/ Director Marketing Zlata PrpiÊ Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o. Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26 Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec Tisak/Print
Dopustite mi izraziti zadovoljstvo πto ste i ovog ljeta Ëesto letjeli naπim zrakoplovima, zbog Ëega vam najsrdaËnije zahvaljujemo. Otprilike u isto vrijeme kad i lani, u drugoj polovici srpnja, zabiljeæili smo i naπu ovogodiπnju milijuntu putnicu, na letu iz Zagreba u Dubrovnik. Zbog svih vas i dalje se trudimo postiÊi novu kvalitetu u naπoj usluzi. Primjerice, nedavno smo potpisali code share sporazum s United Airlinesom, jednom od vodeÊih svjetskih aviokompanija, koji Êe omoguÊiti joπ bolju povezanost naπe zemlje s ameriËkim odrediπtima. Implementacija toga code share sporazuma planira se za poËetak zimskog reda letenja. United je drugi ameriËki prijevoznik s kojim uspostavljamo code-share suradnju. Objavljujemo i intervju s Nj. E. g. Kennethom Mertonom, ameriËkim veleposlanikom u Republici Hrvatskoj, koji nam je Ëestitao na nedavnom ulasku naπe zemlje u Europsku uniju. Vjerujemo da Êete u razgovoru s g. Mertonom otkriti zanimljive pojedinosti, kao i u mnogim drugim temama koje smo za vas pripremili. I ovaj put nastojali smo vam, rijeËima i slikom, doËarati prirodne ljepote naπe zemlje i upoznati vas s joπ jednim dijelom naπe kulturune baπtine. Zbog toga smo proπetali zagrebaËkim muzejima, u kojima je joπ ljetos postavljena izloæba Transparentna ljepota stakla. Zatim smo se zaustavili na Pagu, otoku bogate povijesti, vrhunske gastronomije i dobre zabave te pitoresknih ribarskih naselja. Od naπih odrediπta, ovaj put vodimo vas u BeË, austrijsku prijestolnicu, koja je veÊ nekoliko godina za redom proglaπena gradom s najveÊom æivotnom kvalitetom. Predstavljamo vam i neke naπe sunarodnjake koji su svojim postignuÊima obiljeæili ove prostore. SjeÊamo se jednoga od najveÊih koπarkaπa πto su ga Hrvatska, Europa i svijet ikad imali, koπarkaπkog Mozarta Draæena PetroviÊa, koji nas je prerano napustio prije 20 godina. Dragi putnici, nadamo se da Êe vam, listajuÊi naπ putni Ëasopis, i ovaj let s nama proteÊi ugodno. Æelimo vam svako dobro u privatnome i poslovnom æivotu te se nadamo da Êete opet uskoro naπim zrakoplovom letjeti prema nekome od naπih odrediπta.
Dear passengers, We are very pleased that so many of you have repeatedly chosen our company for your travels, and we take this opportunity to sincerely thank you. Our millionth passenger this year, on a flight from Zagreb to Dubrovnik, was recorded approximately at the same time as last year. You inspire us to keep on pushing our services to new levels of quality. For example, we have recently signed a code share agreement with United Airlines, one of the leading global airlines, which will allow us to offer you improved connections with US destinations once the code share agreement is implemented in the winter timetable. United is the second US airline
D. FabijaniÊ
D. FabijaniÊ, Pag
Poπtovani putnici!
with which we have established code share cooperation. In this issue of our in-flight magazine, we bring you an interview with His Excellency Kenneth Merton, the USA Ambassador in Croatia, who congratulated us on the recent admission of our country into the EU. We believe that the interview will reveal many interesting details, just like the other topics we have prepared for you. Once again, we have used words and photos to show you the beauty of our country and the wealth of our cultural heritage. We took a stroll through Zagreb’s museums where the exhibition The Transparent Beauty of Glass takes place.Then we stopped on Pag, an island where history has left a deep mark, where there are treats galore for foodies and party goers, as well as picturesque fishermen’s villages to please the souls of the more romantically inclined tourists. Among our foreign destinations, we have chosen to take you to Vienna, the capital of Austria, which has been voted the city with the highest quality of life for several years in a row. We also present to you some of our fellow citizens whose achievements have made a considerable contribution to the area. We remember one of the greatest basketball players ever, not only in Croatia but in Europe and in the world, the Mozart of the basketball game, Draæen PetroviÊ, who left us prematurely 20 years ago. All in all, dear passengers, we hope that you will have another pleasant flying experience with us while leafing through this travel magazine. We wish you a lot of success in your private and professional lives, and we hope that soon you will once again choose one of our aircraft to take you to a destination of your choice. Vaš, Sincerely yours,
Zrinski d.d., »akovec
ISSN 1330-6278
Krešimir KuËko President & CEO
■ SADRÆAJ 6 Razgovor: Kenneth Merten KENNETH MERTEN, VELEPOSLANIK SJEDINJENIH AMERI»KIH DRÆAVA S Nj. E. Kennethom Mertenom, veleposlanikom Sjedinjenih AmeriËkih Dræava u Hrvatskoj, razgovarali smo o tome kako se osjeÊa u naπoj zemlji te kakav je dosad bio njegov diplomatski put. 16 Izložbe TRANSPARENTNA LJEPOTA STAKLA Izloæba odabirom viπe od 600 izloæaka predstavlja dosege umjetniËke i obrtniËke kreativnosti oblikovanja u staklu u vremenskom slijedu od starog vijeka do danas. 28 Baština KRALJEVSTVO NA VRHU GRADA Na vrhu gradske krune istoËnog dijela grada Rijeke, na tjemenu trsatskog brda, davno je poËela jedna priËa s odabirom pozicije za izvoriπte buduÊega grada. PriËa o povijesti trsatskog svetiπta zaËeta je Ëudom … 40 Otoci NIJE MJESEC, TO JE PAG Gastronomija, bogata povijest, kulturna baπtina neprocjenjive vrijednosti, prirodne ljepote od kojih zastaje dah te vrhunska zabava samo su dio bogate turistiËke ponude Paga, po mnogoËemu jedinstvenoga jadranskog otoka. 68 Prirodne ljepote VELEBIT, PONOSNA PLANINA Ljepotu Velebita, njegovo znaËenje ne samo za hrvatsku, nego i za europsku pa i svjetsku floru, njegovu bioloπku i krajobraznu raznolikost prepoznao je Unesco. 80 Zagreb DOBRO DOŠLI U ZAGREB, GRAD B&B I DIZAJN-HOSTELA Glavni grad oËito je turistima postao neizbjeæno odredište za posjeta Hrvatskoj, pa tako metropola u posljednje vrijeme biljeæi nevjerojatan porast novih sadræaja. 92 Naša odredišta NAJLJEP©E JE BITI U BE»U Za BeË neki kaæu da je velegrad u kojemu vlada ladanjska atmosfera, da je grad bez stresa... Dijalog, komunikacija, integracija rijeËi su koje se stalno ponavljaju i na sluæbenim stranicama grada. 107 Umjetnost ODSJAJI ÆIVOTA Zaustavljanje æivota ili, bolje, njegov odsjaj na fotopapiru, omiljena je tema Marije Braut, hrvatske fotografkinje, posljednje pripadnice zagrebaËke πkole moderne fotografije, onako kako ju je postavio legendarni Toπo Dabac. 114 Moda MODNI ORMAR, MJESTO GDJE SE OSTVARUJU NOVE IDEJE Vrata osmoga Modnog ormara otvaraju se u studenome, u prostorima ZagrebaËkoga plesnog centra, u srediπtu Zagreba. Danas je to pravi festival mladih modnih dizajnera… 125 Sport DRAÆEN, NAJLJEPŠA PRI»A O MLADOSTI Uspomena na koπarkaπkog Mozarta, Draæena PetroviÊa, Ëija je karijera bila veÊa od æivota, uopÊe ne blijedi, iako je od njegove tragiËne smrti proπlo viπe od 20 godina. 131 Tradicija VJETAR KOJI DODIRUJE TRSTIKU Danas starih, izvornih sviraËa gotovo viπe nema, ali, sreÊom, tisuÊljetna tradicija sviranja starohrvatskih tradicijskih glazbala æivi i dalje. 2
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■ CONTENTS 6 Interview: Kenneth Merten KENNETH MERTEN, US AMBASSADOR TO CROATIA We interviewed His Excellency Kenneth Merten, the US Ambassador to Croatia, and asked him how he feels in our country and what his diplomatic journey has been like so far. 16 Exhibitions TRANSPARENT BEAUTY OF GLASS Through the selection of more than 600 artefacts this exhibitions presents the achievements in artistic and craft creativity in working with glass, over a time period stretching from ancient history to present day. 28 Heritage A KINGDOM ON THE TOP OF CITY A long time ago, a tale started on the top of the city crown towering over the eastern part of the city of Rijeka, on the vertex of Trsat Hill. That was when a position was chosen for the source of a future city. The tale of history of this shrine was conceived as a result of a miracle… 40 Islands IT IS NOT THE MOON, IT IS PAG Gastronomy, a rich history, priceless cultural heritage, natural beauty which leaves one breathless and top entertainment are a part of the rich tourist offer of Pag, which is in many ways a unique Adriatic island. 68 Natural beauties VELEBIT, THE PROUD MOUNTAIN The beauty of Velebit and the significance of its biosphere were recognized by UNESCO. 80 Zagreb WELCOME TO ZAGREB, THE CITY OF B&B AND DESIGN HOSTELS The capital city has obviously become an unavoidable destination for tourists visiting Croatia so the metropolis has recently recorded an amazing growth in the number of new contents. 92 Our destinations VIENNA, THE PLACE TO BE Some say that Vienna is a metropolis with a country feel, that it is a stress-free city. Dialogue, communication, integration; these are the buzzwords often repeated on the official web pages of the city of Vienna. 107 Art REFLECTIONS OF LIFE The stopping of life, or better still, its reflection on photographic paper, is a beloved topic for Marija Braut, the important Croatian female photographer, and the last member of the Zagreb school of modern photography, which was founded by the legendary Toπo Dabac. 114 Fashion FASHION CLOSET, A PLACE WHERE NEW IDEAS ARE CREATED The eighth Fashion Closet is scheduled to open its door in November on the floor of Zagreb’s Dance Centre, in the very heart of Zagreb. Today, it is a real festival of young fashion designers… 125 Sports DRAÆEN, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL STORY ABOUT YOUTH The memories of the basketball Mozart, Draæen PetroviÊ, whose career was bigger than life, do not fade, even though more than 20 years have already passed since his tragic death. 131 Tradition WIND THAT TOUCHES THE REEDS Today, the old authentic musicians are practically gone, but luckily, the thousand year old tradition of playing ancient traditional Croatian instruments lives on. 4
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This is your personal copy
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■ RAZGOVOR KENNETH MERTEN
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Piπe/By Ksenija Žlof
Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ
INTERVIEW KENNETH MERTEN ■
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S Kennethom Mertenom, veleposlanikom Sjedinjenih AmeriËkih Dræava u Hrvatskoj, razgovarali smo za naπ Ëasopis o tome kako se osjeÊa u naπoj zemlji poslije gotovo godinu dana mandata, kakav je dosad bio njegov diplomatski put, kakvi su mu planovi u buduÊnosti, te kako teËe njegov zagrebaËki æivot…
We interviewed Kenneth Merten, the US Ambassador to Croatia, for our magazine, and asked him how he feels in our country after being here for almost a year, what his diplomatic journey is like so far, what his plans for the future are and what his life in Zagreb is like.
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j. E. gospodin Kenneth Mer ten prije otprilike godinu dana poËeo je obnaπati duænost veleposlanika Sjedinjenih AmeriËkih Dræava u Hrvatskoj. Ali, nije to njegov prvi susret s naπom zemljom. Prvi je put doπao u Hrvatsku 2008. godine, kao Ëlan delegacije koja je putovala uz tadaπnjeg predsjednika Georgea Busha i dræavnu tajnicu Condoleezzu Rice. U to se vrijeme bavio, izmeu ostaloga, pripremama za sluæbena putovanja dræavne tajnice Rice i na mnogima od tih putovanja bio u njezinoj pratnji. Doπli su u Zagreb nakon samita NATO-a u Bukureπtu. − Istog sam se trena zaljubio u Zagreb i rekao sam sebi i svojoj æeni Susan: Ovo je mjesto u kojemu bih jednog dana volio biti na duænosti − odmah u poËetku naπeg razgovora rekao nam je veleposlanik Merten, te dodao: − Mojoj obitelji i meni ovdje je veoma ugodno. Volimo Zagreb i Hrvatsku, a Hrvati su nas doËekali osobito toplo. ■ Kakva je bila Vaπa percepcija Hrvatske prije nego πto ste stigli ovamo, je li se poklapala sa stvarnoπÊu ovdje, je li Vas neπto iznenadilo, i ako jest, πto? − Moja percepcija bila je da je Hrvatska prekrasna zemlja. Prema onome πto sam proËitao, saznao sam da je Hrvatska u posljednjih 15 godina morala donijeti mnogo teπkih odluka i reformi te da poËinje ubirati plodove toga teπkog rada. Dakle, u tom smislu, ne mogu reÊi da sam bio iznenaen. Ako me neπto i iznenadilo, to je bio veoma topao doËek hrvatskih ljudi. Ni sam ne znam koliko mi je ljudi priπlo kako bi mi zahvalili na potpori koju su Sjedinjene Dræave pruæale Hrvatskoj od njezine samostalnosti. To je nevjerojatno motivirajuÊe. ■ Koje ste dijelove Hrvatske dosad imali priliku posjetiti, i πto Vas se osobito dojmilo? − Imao sam sreÊu obiÊi sve hrvatske regije, iako ima mnogo gradova koje joπ nisam imao zadovoljstvo posjetiti. Jedna od stvari koje mi se uistinu sviaju u Hrvatskoj jest raznolikost. Divno je imati priliku uËiti o tome kako se obiËaji, povijest, kuhinja, vina i arhitektura ovdje razlikuju od regije do regije. Mnoga su mi mjesta bila omiljena, ali svaki put kad posjetim neko novo, ono Ëesto postane moje najdraæe mjesto. Sada su mi omiljeni Kornati, otoci koje sam posjetio nedavno. Takoer volim Osijek i njegovu okolicu. A i πetnje Zagrebom. Ali pitajte me za πest mjeseci, zacijelo Êu tada raspredati o nekim drugim mjestima. ■ Vjerojatno ste sa zanimanjem pratili sveËanost koja je slavila ulazak Hrvatske u Europsku uniju. ©to Êe, po Vaπemu miπljenju, pristupanje Hrvatske Europskoj uniji znaËiti za naπu zemlju? Takoer,
πto to znaËi za ovu regiju i opÊenito ovaj dio svijeta, za Europu, te u globalnom smislu? − SveËanost 30. lipnja bila je Ëudesna! Pristupanje Hrvatske Europskoj uniji povijesni je trenutak za ovu dræavu i njezin narod, koji je gledao kako Hrvatska zauzima svoje zasluæeno mjesto u Europi. Ponosim se πto sam bio ovdje i svjedoËio tome. Nadam se da pristupanje Europskoj uniji znaËi nove moguÊnosti, moguÊnosti za hrvatske tvrtke te prilike za hrvatske graane, posebice za mlade ljude u Hrvatskoj. Takoer smatram kako ulazak Hrvatske u Europsku uniju pokazuje da je buduÊnost jugoistoËne Europe u Europskoj uniji te daje primjer zemljama ove regije πto se sve moæe postiÊi rjeπavanjem otvorenih pitanja i spremnoπÊu da se poduzmu vaæne reforme. ■ Program Vaπih aktivnosti navodi, izmeu ostaloga, da ste proveli neko vrijeme u Bruxellesu, kao dio misije Sjedinjenih AmeriËkih Dræava u Europskoj uniji. Koja su Vaπa najdojmljivija sjeÊanja iz tog razdoblja, kakvo je bilo to iskustvo te kako Vam ono pomaæe u ovom trenutku kad se zemlja u kojoj radite kao veleposlanik pridruæila Europskoj uniji? − Smatram da je za ameriËkog diplomata na duænosti u Europi iskustvo s institucijama Europske unije te njihovo razumijevanje veoma vaæno. Imao sam sreÊe πto sam radio u sklopu naπe misije u Europskoj uniji u vrijeme kad su Sjedinjene Dræave napokon poËinjale shvaÊati puni potencijal rada s institucijama Europske unije kao dopunu naπega bilateralnog rada s dræavama Ëlanicama. Naπ tadaπnji veleposlanik, Stu Eizenstat, bio je Ëovjek koji je razumio da SAD i EU mogu zajedno mnogo toga postiÊi u podruËjima u kojima moæemo pronaÊi zajedniËki cilj. Isto vrijedi i danas. Primjerice, vjerujem da Êe i Europa i Sjedinjene AmeriËke Dræave imati osobito veliku korist uspijemo li postiÊi dogovor oko Transatlantskog sporazuma o trgovini i investicijama. Pregovori neÊe biti jednostavni, ali potencijalna je korist golema. No, iskreno, najbolje πto mi se tada dogodilo u Bruxellesu jest to πto se ondje rodila moja kÊi Elisabeth. ■ Radite u diplomaciji od 1987. godine i odonda ste boravili u Parizu, Bonnu i Port-au-Princeu (Haiti). Koji su vaπi interesi, osim diplomacije? ©to biste studirali ili gdje biste radili da niste odluËili raditi u diplomaciji? − Volim biti diplomat, i to je ono πto sam studirao na sveuËiliπtu. Ali, imao sam sreÊe πto sam bio na praksi iz savjetovanja u dizajnu i marketingu u Londonu u osamdesetima, neposredno prije nego πto sam se pridruæio diplomatskoj sluæbi. Volio bih ponovno raditi
neπto sliËno tome. Bilo je divno raditi s umjetnicima i dizajnerima kako bi se poboljπao dizajn proizvoda, πto je pak poveÊalo prodaju i profit klijenata za koje smo radili. ■ Svaki je mandat po neËemu specifiËan. Po Ëemu Êete pamtiti svoje mandate u razliËitim zemljama? − Bio je pravi privilegij æivjeti u Parizu i ondje nam je bilo veoma lijepo. Bilo je to teπko razdoblje u naπemu bilateralnom odnosu jer nismo mislili isto u vezi s ratom u Iraku. UnatoË tomu, mnogo smo postigli u suradnji s francuskom vladom na πirokom spektru ostalih pitanja. U veleposlanstvu sam radio na samitu u Evianu 2003. te oko posjeta predsjednika Busha obali Normandije u spomen πezdesete obljetnice Dana D, πto su vjerojatno moja najnezaboravnija iskustva. Imali smo sreÊu i πto smo bili u Bonnu tijekom ujedinjenja NjemaËke. To je za ameriËkog diplomata uistinu bilo fascinantno i vrijedno iskustvo. Bio je to poËetak goleme pozitivne promjene u naπem odnosu s NjemaËkom. Na Haitiju smo na duænosti bili triput. Prvi put, doæivjeli smo tri coup d’étata i Ëetiri vlade. Zadnji put kad sam bio ondje, svjedoËio sam potresu 2010. godine te pomogao organizirati SAD-ov odaziv u pomoÊ na terenu Haitija. Na æalost, viπe od 200.000 ljudi poginulo je u toj katastrofi. Svako od tih mjesta za mene je veoma osobito i danas. ■ Koliko su se ta mjesta dosad razlikovala od Vaπeg mandata u Hrvatskoj? Na kakve su izazove naiπle te zemlje? − U svakoj od tih zemalja bio sam u zanimljivim vremenima. Ako i ima neke povezanosti, to je da je naπ odnos sa svakom tom zemljom bio u prijelaznom razdoblju. Teπko je nositi se s promjenama i tranzicijom, kljuË je prepoznati prilike da se prodube partnerstva i unaprijede zajedniËki ciljevi. SreÊom, imao sam prilike prisustvovati ulasku Hrvatske u EU. To je bio velik i pozitivan dogaaj i bit Êu sretan bude li to najznaËajniji dogaaj za vrijeme mog boravka ovdje. Radujem se mirnome i uËinkovitom produbljivanju partnerstva s Hrvatskom u nadolazeÊim godinama. ■ Vaπe zalaganje za pomoÊ Haitiju poslije potresa uistinu je impresivno. Predsjednik Haitija Michel Martelly odlikovao Vas je i Velikim kriæem Ëasti i postignuÊa, Ëetvrti ste inozemni diplomat koji je primio tu Ëast u viπe od 200 godina samostalnosti Haitija. ©to moæete reÊi o svom radu i zalaganju Sjedinjenih Dræava u tome teπkom razdoblju za Haiti? − Predsjednik Martelly pravi je domoljub koji naporno i uspjeπno radi oko toga da HaiÊanima pruæi nadu u bolju i povoljniju buduÊnost. Sjedinjene AmeriËke Dræave ondje su kao partner kako bismo uËinili sve
πto moæemo da pomognemo HaiÊanima u obnovi zemlje te da im pruæimo podrπku u stizanju tamo kamo æele stiÊi. Rekonstrukcija nije jednostavna, mnogim europskim gradovima trebalo je desetljeÊe da se potpuno obnove nakon Drugog svjetskog rata. Smatram da su HaiÊani nevjerojatno dobro reagirali neposredno nakon potresa: ostali su smireni, meusobno su si pruæali pomoÊ i besprijekorno suraivali s meunarodnom zajednicom. Veoma sam ponosan na svoje ameriËke kolege iz vojske i ameriËke graane: spasili smo stotine tisuÊa ljudi pobrinuvπi se da imaju hrane i vode, a evakuirali smo viπe od 16.000 ameriËkih graana, πto je najveÊa evakuacija SAD-a od Drugoga svjetskog rata. ■ ©to moæe uËiniti diplomacija da pomogne u takvim situacijama, i do koje mjere? − Pa, osim koordiniranja naπih operacija olakπanja i obnove s haiÊanskom vladom i s drugim meunarodnim sudionicima, jedna od kljuËnih stvari koju smo uËinili kao diplomati jest to πto smo pomogli haiÊanskoj vladi osigurati da demokratski proces i dalje nastavi funkcionirati, i to pravilno i transparentno. Neki su na Haitiju æeljeli manipulirati ishodom tamoπnjih predsjedniËkih izbora 2010. godine. Mi, kao diplomatski predstavnici nekoliko naroda, suraivali smo s HaiÊanima kako bismo osigurali da se poπtuje volja njihova naroda. Danas Haiti ima legitimno izabranog predsjednika koji naporno radi u obnovi svoje zemlje. ■ Koji su Vaπi prioriteti tijekom Vaπeg mandata u Hrvatskoj, πto je Vaπ najvaæniji zadatak, posebice u smislu razvijanja dobrih i prijateljskih odnosa izmeu naπih dviju zemalja? − Odnos SAD-a i Hrvatske razvija se i napreduje. Iskreno, to je tako otkako se Hrvatska pridruæila NATO-u 2009. godine. Odnos je i dalje veoma blizak, ali postaje joπ zreliji i sofisticiraniji; to je partnerstvo izmeu dva bliska prijatelja i saveznika. Prije nekoliko godina zatvorili smo ured USAID-a (AmeriËke agencije za meunarodni razvoj) u Hrvatskoj. Danas se radujemo tomu πto kao partner suraujemo s Hrvatskom u πirokom spektru pitanja. Pozdravljamo vaπe partnerstvo u provedbi zakona i u sudskim pitanjima te se radujemo tomu da zajedniËkim snagama oËvrsnemo suradnju s Hrvatskom na tim podruËjima, a i suradnju Hrvatske i njezinih susjeda. Dio tog procesa veÊ traje te se nadamo da zajedno moæemo postiÊi joπ i viπe. Znamo da Êe Hrvatska i dalje imati vaænu ulogu u poticanju te podupiranju susjednih zemalja da ostvare svoje euroatlantske teænje. ■ Kako uspijevate uskladiti profesionalne duænosti s privatnim æivotom?
− Nema mnogo toga πto treba uskladiti. Imam sreÊe πto imam obitelj, posebice suprugu, koja voli putovati i æivjeti u prekomorskoj zemlji. Moja diplomatska karijera moguÊa je zbog doprinosa moje supruge i obitelji i to je ono πto me ispunja. Kao supruzi veleposlanika, mojoj æeni Susan nije dopuπteno raditi u veleposlanstvu, ali prije nego πto sam se pridruæio diplomatskoj sluæbi, radila je u zavodu Brookings u Washingtonu. Moja mlaa kÊi odluËila je uzeti godinu dana odmora ovdje u Zagrebu. Veoma joj se svia ovdje te se veseli πto Êe uËiti hrvatski i istraæivati zemlju. ■ Kako provodite slobodno vrijeme? Koja biste mjesta preporuËili ameriËkim graanima da posjete kad je rijeË o ljepoti prirode i nacionalnoj baπtini? − Trebao bih provoditi viπe slobodnog vremena uËeÊi hrvatski. Ovo je prva zemlja u kojoj sam bio na duænosti, a da veÊ nisam teËno govorio jezik prije nego πto sam stigao. Na æalost, mogao sam uËiti hrvatski samo osam tjedana prije nego πto sam doπao ovamo. I dalje se usavrπavam, ali trebao bih uËiniti viπe. Osim toga, volim igrati tenis, istraæivati Hrvatsku i okolne zemlje, i glazbu. U Hrvatskoj ima toliko toga za preporuku. Sve je divno i fascinantno. Ono na πto bih æelio potaknuti ljude jest da posjete neke od manje poznatih dijelova Hrvatske. Govorim im: Posjetite Dubrovnik, obalu i otoke, dapaËe, no pokuπajte takoer vidjeti i Varaædin, Osijek i Zagreb. Ta mjesta za mnoge Amerikance ostanu neotkriveni dragulji. ■ Zacijelo ste imali mnogo prilika za putovanja i bili Ëest putnik u avionima razliËitih zrakoplovnih kompanija. Koja biste mjesta na cijelom svijetu izdvojili kao najljepπa ili na neki naËin osobita? − Iskreno, veÊinom sam putovao zrakoplovom dræavnog tajniπtva, kojim sam tri godine redovito letio, tako da u tom smislu i nisam Ëest putnik u avionima. Dakako, æelio bih da viπe Amerikanaca posjeti Hrvatsku i uvijek ih potiËem da dou. Osim toga, postoje prekrasna mjesta na Haitiju koja su potpuno nepoznata, posebice Europljanima. Borove πume na impozantnim planinama Port-auPrincea iznenauju i zadivljuju svojim hladnim zrakom s mirisom borova. Haiti takoer ima stotine neotkrivenih, netaknutih i prekrasnih plaæa. Haiti ima toliko netaknutih ljepota da mislim kako je samo pitanje vremena da πto Êe viπe ljudi krene u potragu za njima. ■ Koje su Vaπe preporuke za Hrvatsku kao mladu Ëlanicu EU? − Hrvatska mnogo pridonosi EU. Ovo je prekrasna zemlja bogate povijesti i golema kulturnog bogatstva. Mislim da Êe Ëlanstvo Hrvatske u EU viπe paænje usmjeriti na jugoistoËnu Europu, πto je dobro. Ako bih neπto CROATIA AIRLINES
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preporuËio, to bi bilo da potaknem Hrvatsku da naporno radi kako bi ostala gospodarski konkurentna, ne samo ostatku Europe, nego i ostatku svijeta. U proteklih deset godina mnoge su dræave poduzele korake kako bi olakπale osnivanje tvrtki i poslovanje. Tako se otvaraju nova radna mjesta i moguÊnosti za graane, posebice za mlade ljude. Stagnacija nije opcija u ovim gospodarski teπkim vremenima, svaka dræava mora naporno raditi kako bi uËinila sve πto je u njezinoj moÊi da se otvore nove moguÊnosti za njezin narod. Upravo sada kada su investitori ponovno usmjerili pogled prema Hrvatskoj, zbog njezina pristupanja Europskoj uniji, vrijeme je da se poduzmu takvi koraci. ■
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is Excellency Mr. Kenneth Merten took the office of US Ambassador to Croatia about a year ago. But this is not his first visit to our country. He first came to Croatia in 2008 as a member of the travelling party accompanying the then-President Bush and Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice. At that time, among other things, he was working on Secretary of State Rice’s staff where he prepared many of her official visits and accompanied her on many of her trips. They came to Zagreb after the NATO summit in Bucharest. Ambassador Merten started our conversation by saying: I immediately fell in love with Zagreb and told myself and my wife Susan that it was a place I would like to serve someday. My family and I feel very comfortable here. We love Zagreb and Croatia and have received an extraordinarily warm welcome from the Croatian people. ■ What was your perception of Croatia before arriving in this country, and did it match the reality that you encountered here? Did anything surprise you, and if so, what? − My perception of Croatia was that it was a beautiful country. From what I read, I learned that Croatia had made a lot of difficult political decisions and reforms over the past fifteen years and was beginning to reap the benefits of that hard work. So in that regard, I can’t say I have been surprised. If anything has surprised me, it has been the incredible warmth of the welcome from the Croatian people. I can’t tell you how many people have come up to me to thank me for the support the United States has given to Croatia since independence. That is incredibly gratifying. ■ Which parts of Croatia have you had a chance to visit so far, and what were you particularly impressed by? 10
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− I am fortunate enough to have been to just about every region of Croatia so far, although there are still many towns I have not yet had the pleasure of visiting. One of the things I really like about Croatia is the diversity from one part of the country to the other. It is wonderful to have an opportunity to learn about how the customs, history, cuisines, wines and architecture differ from region to region here. I have had some favorite places, but every time I go someplace new, that place often becomes my new favorite. Right now, my current favorite is the Kornati Islands which I recently visited. I also love Osijek and the surrounding area. And I still love walking in Zagreb. But talk to me again in six months, I’ll probably be raving about some different places! ■ You probably watched the ceremony celebrating Croatia joining the EU with interest. What will, in your opinion, Croatia’s accession to the EU mean for our country? Also, what does this mean for the region and this part of the world in general, and what does it mean for Europe and in global terms? − The ceremony on 30 June was marvelous! Croatia’s accession to the EU was a historic moment for the country and its people, as it saw Croatia taking its rightful place in Europe. I was proud to be here to witness it. I hope EU accession means new opportunities; opportunities for Croatian businesses, and opportunities for the Croatian people, particularly Croatia’s young people. I also think Croatia’s entry into the EU shows that Southeast Europe’s future lies within the European Union, and shows countries in the region what can be achieved by resolving outstanding issues and committing to undertake important reforms. ■ Your curriculum states, among other things, that you spent some time in the U.S. Mission to the European Union in Brussels. What are your most striking memories from that period, what was the experience like and how does it help you now when the country where you work as ambassador has joined the EU? − For an American diplomat serving in Europe, I believe that experience with and an understanding of the European Union institutions is absolutely necessary. I was lucky enough to work at our mission to the EU at a time when the United States was finally beginning to understand the full potential of working with EU institutions as a complement to our bilateral work with member states. Our Ambassador at the time, Stu Eizenstat, was a man who understood that the U.S. and EU together could achieve great things in areas where we could find common purpose. That
is just as true today. For example, I believe that both Europe and the United States will benefit immensely if we can negotiate a Transatlantic Trade and Investment Partnership. The negotiations won’t be easy, but the potential benefits are huge. Honestly though, the best thing about being in Brussels at that time was the fact that my daughter, Elisabeth, was born there! ■ You have worked in diplomacy since 1987, and since then, you spent time in Paris, Bonn and Port-au-Prince (Haiti). What are your interests, in addition to diplomacy? What would you have studied or where would you have worked had you not decided to pursue this profession? − I love being a diplomat, and that’s what I studied at university. However, I was lucky enough to have an internship in a design and marketing consultancy in London in the 1980s, just before joining the diplomatic service. I would love to do something like that again. It was wonderful working with artists and designers to improve product design, which in turn increased the sales and profitability for the clients we worked for. ■ Each term in office is specific for something. What do you remember for each of your terms in these countries? − Living in Paris was a real privilege and we loved our time there. It was a difficult time in our bilateral relationship as we did not see eye-to-eye on the Iraq War. Nevertheless, we were able to accomplish a good deal with the French government on a broad range of other issues. At the Embassy, I worked on both the 2003 Evian Summit and the 2004 visit of President Bush to the Normandy Beaches to commemorate the 60th anniversary of D-Day, which were probably my most memorable experiences. We were fortunate enough to be in Bonn at the time of German reunification. That was a fascinating and rewarding time to live through, particularly as an American diplomat. It was also the beginning of a huge and positive transition in the nature of our relationship with Germany. We have served in Haiti three times. The first time we were there through three coups d’état and four governments. This last time, I was there for the 2010 earthquake and helped orchestrate the U.S. response on the ground in Haiti. Tragically, over 200,000 people died in that disaster. Each of these places remains very special to me. ■ How much did they differ from your term in Croatia so far? Which challenges did these countries go through? − I was in each of these countries at interesting times. If there is a common thread, it is that our relationships with each country were in
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a period of transition. Dealing with change and transition is difficult; the key is to spot opportunities to deepen partnerships and advance common goals. Fortunately, I was lucky enough to be here for Croatia’s entry into the EU. That was a huge and positive event, and I will be happy if that is the most momentous event during my time here. I am looking forward to quietly and effectively deepening our partnership with Croatia over the coming years. ■ Your commitment during the aftermath of the Haiti earthquake was truly impressive. You were decorated by Haiti’s President Michel Martelly with the Grand Croix of Honor and Merit, as the fourth foreign diplomat to receive that honor in over 200 years of Haiti’s independence. What can you say about your commitment and the U.S. commitment in this difficult time for Haiti? − President Martelly is a real patriot and is working hard and successfully to give Haitians hope of a better, more prosperous tomorrow. The United States is there as a partner to do what we can to help the Haitian people rebuild and get to where they want to be. Reconstruction is not easy; it took many European cities a decade or more to rebuild fully after WWII. I believe the Haitian people did an incredible job in the immediate aftermath of the earthquake: they remained calm, they helped each other and worked together seamlessly with the international community. I am extraordinarily proud of my American civilian and military colleagues: we saved hundreds of thousands of people by ensuring they had food and water; and we evacuated over 16,000 American citizens, the largest U.S. evacuation since WWII. ■ What can diplomacy do to help in such situations, and to what extent? 12
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− Well, aside from coordinating our relief and recovery operations with the Haitian government and with other international actors, one of the key things we did as diplomats was to help the Haitian government ensure the democratic process continued to operate and that it operated in a correct and transparent fashion. There were elements in Haiti that sought to manipulate the outcome of the Haitian Presidential election of 2010. We diplomats of several nations worked together with the Haitian people to ensure the will of the Haitian people was respected. Today, you have a legitimately-elected president working hard to rebuild his country. ■ During your term here, what are your priorities, what is your most important task, particularly in the sense of developing good and friendly relations between our two countries? − The U.S. relationship with Croatia is evolving and developing. Frankly it has been ever since Croatia joined NATO in 2009. The relationship is still extremely close, but it is becoming more mature and sophisticated; it is a partnership between two close friends and allies. Several years ago, we closed our USAID (Agency for International Development) office here. Today we look forward to working with Croatia as a partner on a broad range of issues. We welcome your partnership in law enforcement and judicial affairs and look forward to working together to strengthen cooperation in these areas between and amongst Croatia and its neighbors. Some of this is already going on and we hope we can do more together. We know that Croatia will continue to play a strong role in encouraging and supporting neighboring countries to realize their EuroAtlantic aspirations. ■ How do you manage to reconcile your professional duties with your personal life? − There is not much to reconcile. I am fortunate enough to have a family − particularly a spouse − who loves to travel and live overseas. My wife and family have made my diplomatic career possible and rewarding at the same time. As the spouse of an Ambassador, my wife Susan is not allowed to work at the Embassy, but before I joined the diplomatic service she worked at the Brookings Institution in Washington. My younger daughter has decided to take a gap year here in Zagreb. She loves it here and looks forward to learning Croatian and exploring the country. ■ How do you spend your free time? − I should be spending more of my spare time learning Croatian. This is the first country to which I’ve been posted where I
have not already been fluent in the language when I arrived. Unfortunately, I only had the possibility to take eight weeks of Croatian classes before I came. I still work on it, but I need to do more. Otherwise, I like playing tennis, exploring Croatia and the surrounding countries, and music. There’s so much to recommend to people here. It’s all fascinating and lovely. What I’d like to urge people to do is to visit some of the less well-known parts of Croatia. I tell people: By all means, see Dubrovnik, the coast, and the islands, but try to get to Varaædin, Osijek and Zagreb too. These places remain undiscovered gems for too many Americans. ■ You must have had many opportunities to travel and you were surely a frequent flyer aboard different airlines. Which places that you visited around the world would you single out as the most beautiful or special in some way? − Honestly, I’ve logged most of my flying miles on the Secretary of State’s aircraft, on which I flew regularly for three years, so no frequent flier miles there. Obviously, I would love for more Americans to visit Croatia, and I always encourage them to come. Aside from that, there are some beautiful places in Haiti that are completely unknown, particularly to Europeans. The pine forests of the dramatic mountains south of Port-au-Prince are surprising and spectacular with cool, pine-scented air. Haiti has hundreds of undiscovered, undeveloped and beautiful beaches too. Haiti has so much undeveloped beauty; I think it’s just a matter of time before more people seek to discover it. ■ What are your recommendations to Croatia as a young member of the EU? − Croatia brings a lot to the European Union. This is a beautiful country with a rich history and tremendous cultural wealth. I think Croatia’s membership in the EU will focus more attention on Southeast Europe; a good thing. If I could make one recommendation, it would be to urge Croatia to work hard to remain economically competitive not only with the rest of Europe, but with the rest of the world. In the past ten years, many countries have taken steps to make it easier to create businesses and to do business. By doing this, they create jobs and opportunities for their citizens, particularly their young people. Standing still is not an option in these difficult economic times; every country needs to work hard to do everything it can to create opportunities for its people. The time for Croatia to take these steps is now while investors are taking a second look at this country because of EU accession. ■
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most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.
To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËnu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2011. godine, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima. Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica − kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. prosinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine. Hrvatska je od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica Europske unije. This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. By the 2011 census, Croatia’s population is 4,284,889. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The official language is Croatian, and the official script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova. National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice 14
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Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.
Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima iz svih ra zdoblja, zbog burnih povijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja ra zliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karak teriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog ra zdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakralna baπtina te niz oËuvanih karak teristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je sred njoe uropsko ga kultur nog kruga i isti Ëe se mnogim prapovijesnim nala zima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitek turom iz ra zdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine. A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of influences of different cultures. Its coast is characterized by the influences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monuments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental complexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik. The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s
Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − najveÊe turistiËko iznenaenje te hit-odrediπte na Sredozemlju. Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, priobalje te kontinentalni dio zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u 2012. godini u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima zabilježili su oko 11,835.000 turista, od kojih je stranih oko 10,369.000. Turisti su ostvarili u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima oko 62,743.000 noÊenja. Hoteli, turistiËka naselja i apartmani, hosteli, kampovi, sobe i apartmani u kuÊanstvima te ostale vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim standardima. Bogata je kulturna ponuda, kongresna i wellnes ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, charter ponuda (iznajmljivanje plovila za razonodu i sport), kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih i biciklistiËkih staza, vinske ceste, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti… Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja, nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluau toce sta Hrvatska je bliæa ne go ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mno gih hrvatskih oto ka, pri jevoz trajek tom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od svakodnevice miljama i miljama daleko... Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has be en a hit de stination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international exper ts in tourism. According to data from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, the Croatian tourist destinations located on the islands, along the coast and in the continental part of the country, including the capital city of Zagreb, recorded roughly 11.8 million tourists (11,835,600 tourists) in commercial accommodation facilities in 2012, of whom around 10.4 foreign tourists. Tourists realized about 62,743,000 overnight stays. Hotels, tourist villages and apartments, hostels, camps, rooms and apartments in private homes and other forms of accommodation, such as modern nautical centres, are equipped in line with international standards. There is a rich cultural offer, together with the congress and wellness offer, sport-recreation and entertainment contents, the charter offer (renting sailing vessels for leisure and sport), many kilometres of well-groomed walking and cycling paths, wine roads, sightseeing
excursions that include natural and cultural treasures... Novac i naËin plaÊanja Ku na je na ziv novËa ne je di ni ce Re pu bli ke Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp). NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima − 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac − 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima.
Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Ku na (kn). In cir cu la ti on are ban knotes in Ku na and co ins in Ku na and Li pa (lp) ∑ one hun dredth of a Ku na. The ban knotes are issu ed in the fol lowing de no mi na ti ons: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Ku na, whi le the de no mi na ti on struc tu re of the co ins is 1, 2 and 5 Ku na and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Li pa (100 Li pa = 1 Ku na). Pay men ts can be made by cre dit card (Di ners, Vi sa, Ame ri can Ex pre ss, Eu ro card and Ma stercard), as well as eu ro-chec ks. Ca sh can be wit hdrawn from AT Ms.
Kartografski laboratorij Križovan
ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Izravne domaÊe linije Direct domestic routes Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalne / regular sezonske ljetne / seasonal in summer
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■ IZLOŽBE EXHIBITIONS
Goran VraniÊ
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Pišu/By Lada RatkoviÊ BukovËan i/and Anelka GaliÊ
Zvijeæe Mediterana, oblikovao Draæen TrogrliÊ , 2011.g. Mediterranean constellation, made by Draæen TrogrliÊ, 2011 CROATIA AIRLINES
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Rastavljena sfera II, oblikovao Vjenceslav Richter, Muzej suvremene umjetnosti, Zagreb
SreĂ&#x160;ko Budek, MUO
A Decomposed Sphere II, made by Vjenceslav Richter, Museum of Contemporary Art, Zagreb
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Prikaz viπe od tri tisuÊljeÊa oblikovanja u staklu, trideset tri hrvatska muzeja, tri zagrebaËka muzeja i jedna izloæba - rezultat je trogodiπnje uspjeπne suradnje hrvatskih muzeja na realizaciji izloæbe Transparentna Ijepota: staklo iz hrvatskih muzeja A display of more than three millennia of glass objects, thirtythree Croatian museums, three museums in Zagreb and one exhibition - this is the outcome of three years of successful cooperation between Croatia’s museums, resulting in the SreÊko Budek, MUO
exhibition Transparent Beauty: Glass from Croatian Museums
Posuda u obliku ribe, Murano,16. na 17. st., Muzej za umjetnost i obrt Zagreb
SreÊko Budek, MUO
A dish in the shape of a fish, Murano, 16th/17th century, Museum of Arts and Crafts Zagreb
Vaza, oblikovala Antonija Krasnik, BeË, oko 1902.-1905.,Muzej za umjetnost i obrt Zagreb A vase, made by Antonija Krasnik, Vienna, around 1902-1905, Museum of Arts and Crafts Zagreb
zložba Transparentna Ijepota: staklo iz hrvatskih muzeja, koja se odræava pod visokim pokroviteljstvom predsjednika Republike Hrvatske Ive JosipoviÊa, organizirana i postavljena u tri zagrebaËka muzeja: Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt, Arheoloπkome muzeju i Muzeju Mimara, odabirom viπe od 600 izloæaka predstavlja dosege umjetniËke i obrtniËke kreativnosti oblikovanja u staklu u vremenskom slijedu od starog vijeka do danas. Taj jedinstveni projekt prvi put pruæa hrvatskoj i inozemnoj javnosti moguÊnost cjelovitog uvida u dio baπtine hrvatskih muzeja preko najreprezentativnijih primjeraka predmeta od stakla. Tim muzejskih struËnjaka iz cijele Hrvatske, koji je obradio grau, predvodili su autori izloæbe i konaËnog odabira eksponata mr. sc. Lada RatkoviÊ BukovËan i dr. sc. Zoran Gregl. Izloæba je koncipirana u tri dionice i odræava se istodobno u tri muzeja. U Arheoloπkome muzeju Zagreb predstavljena je produkcija u staklu nastala u πirokom vremenskom rasponu od 2. tisuÊljeÊa pr. Kr. do 14. stoljeÊa. Odabrani eksponati dokumentiraju i ilustriraju bogatstvo ostvarenja u staklu iz razdoblja staroga i srednjeg vijeka, koji se Ëuvaju u hrvatskim muzejima, a najveÊim dijelom potjeËu
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SreÊko Budek, MUO
Pokal s poklopcem, »eπka, prva pol. 18. st., Gradski muzej Varaædin A carafe with a lid, Bohemia, first half of the 18th century, Varaædin City Museum
Perle s tri lica, Prozor, OtoËac, 3.-2.st. pr.Kr., Arheoloπki muzej Zagreb
Igor Krajcar
Necklace with three faces, Prozor, OtoËac, 3rd/2nd century B.C., Archaeological Museum Zagreb
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iz arheoloπkih nalaziπta u Hrvatskoj. Odabir iz Arheoloπkog muzeja u Zagrebu upotpunjen je predmetima iz fundusa joπ Ëetrnaest muzeja od Pule do Narone, od Splita do –akova i Osijeka, a predstavljen je i odabir iz jedinstvenog korpusa starorimskih nalaza pohranjenih u Muzeju antiËkog stakla u Zadru. Kronoloπki pregled dijela izloæbe u Arheoloπkome muzeju zavrπava primjercima staklarske produkcije srednjovjekovnog razdoblja (6. - 14. st.). SpecifiËna obiljeæja zapadnoeuropske i islamske produkcije stakla najveÊim dijelom ilustriraju odabrani predmeti iz fundusa Muzeja Mimara. Drugi dio izloæbe, postavljen u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt, predstavlja vrhunske dosege staklarske produkcije novog vijeka. Izbor viπe od 360 eksponata odabranih iz fundusa dvadeset hrvatskih muzeja daje pregled reprezentativnih ostvarenja oblikovanja u staklu u vremenskom slijedu od 15. do kraja 20. stoljeÊa. Odabrani po naËelu izvrsnosti, izloæeni predmeti predoËuju vrhunske dosege oblikovanja, tehnoloπko-izvedbenih znanja, stilsko-oblikovnih obiljeæja zrcaleÊi slojevitost kulture æivljenja protkane istanËanim osjeÊajem za ljepotu transparencije. U kronoloπkom slijedu od pet stoljeÊa, najreprezentativniji odabir staklenih djela vrhunske kakvoÊe preko oblikovnih obilježja prati oËitovanja mijene stilova od renesanse do art décoa. Bogatstvo tehnika i nesagledivoga oblikovnog repertoara prezentirano je na primjercima predmeta iz fundusa muzeja u Hrvatskoj − od nezaustavljiva uzleta muranskih radionica 15. i 16. stoljeÊa, preko barokne igre bruπenih ploha i matiranog stakloreza u djelima potsdamskih, πleskih radionica i savrπenstva Ëeπkih ostvarenja u staklu iz 17. i 18. stoljeÊa, do rafiniranih izriËaja snaænih individualnosti oblikovatelja iz prvih desetljeÊa 20. stoljeÊa. Osim na stilskim, oblikovnim i tehnololoπkim osobitostima, naglasak je i na autorskim osobnostima i radionicama koje su znaËajno obiljeæile europsku novovjeku produkciju u staklu (F. Egermann, A. Kothgasser, radionica J. & L. Lobmeyr, Salviati, Tiffany, Gallé, Lalique itd.). Zasebnu cjelinu predstavljaju ostvarenja hrvatskih staklana u 19. st. (Ivanovo Polje, Osredek, ZveËevo, Duboka), najbolje zastupljena u fundusu Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt te u Gradskome muzeju Poæega, koja se istiËu osobitostima oblikovanja i uresima naglaπenih rodoljubnih znaËenja. Ovom dionicom izloæbe dominiraju predmeti iz fundusa Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt s artefaktima koji predoËuju vrhunske dosege ostvarenja europskih radionica od razdoblja renesanse do druge polovine 20. stoljeÊa, kad se profiliraju velika kiparska ostvarenja u staklu hrvatskih autora poput Antuna Motike i Raoula Goldonija. Raznovrsnost uzleta obrtniËke i umjetniËke
Mario KriπtofiÊ
Ljuska 4, dizajn Gordana DrinkoviÊ, 2008., privatna kolekcija Shell 4, designed by Gordana DrinkoviÊ, 2008, private collection
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Igor Krajcar
produkcije u staklu i cjelovitost uvida u vrhunske dosege ostvarenja iz pojedinih stilskih razdoblja upotpunjavaju najreprezentativniji primjerci odabrani iz fundusa Muzeja Marton, Muzeja Mimara, Gradskog muzeja Varaædin, Muzeja Slavonije u Osijeku, DubrovaËkih muzeja i drugih muzeja zastupljenih na ovoj izloæbi. TreÊa dionica izloæbe, postavljena u Muzeju Mimara, naslovljena Transparentna ljepota - staklo u djelima suvremenih hrvatskih umjetnika, proπiruje priËu o staklu na 21. stoljeÊe. Kreativne moguÊnosti oblikovanja u mediju stakla oæivotvorene su u djelima suvremenih hrvatskih autora Kuzme KovaËiÊa, Draæena TrogrliÊa, Kaæimira Hraste, Antona VrliÊa, Jeronima Tiπljara, Jagode BuiÊ, Mihaela ©tebiha, Gordane DrinkoviÊ i Petra DoliÊa. Kao rezultat suradnje trideset tri hrvatska muzeja, kulturoloπki izloæbeni projekt Transparentna Ijepota: staklo iz hrvatskih muzeja prvi put predstavlja ponajbolji odabir iz bogatih zbirki stakla muzeja u Hrvatskoj. S kulturnopovijesnoga glediπta iπËitava se dvojno znaËenje odabranih predmeta: s jedne strane istiËe se kako su stakleni proizvodi vrhunske kakvoÊe nastali u europskim radionicama bili dijelom opreme interijera u Hrvatskoj kao vaæna sastavnica kulture æivljenja, a s druge su strane, naπavπi mjesto u fundusima hrvatskih muzeja, postali trajnim svjedoËanstvom stilskotehnoloπkog razvoja europskog staklarstva. Osim o civilizacijskim dosezima i neizmjernim moguÊnostima kreativnosti, izabrani primjerci transparentne ljepote zorno svjedoËe kako se bogatstvo zbirki stakla muzejskih fundusa u Hrvatskoj jasno sljubljuje s inventarima muzejskih riznica diljem Europe. n
Pehar na nozi s dvije ruËice, Gornja Vas, sredina 2. st., Arheoloπki muzej Zagreb Carafe on stem with two handles, Gornja Vas, mid-2nd century, Archaeological Museum Zagreb
T
Rebrasta zdjelica, Zagreb-Stenjevec, 1.st., Arheoloπki muzej Zagreb
Igor Krajcar
Ribbed bowl, Zagreb-Stenjevec, 1st century, Archaeological Museum Zagreb
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he exhibition Transparent Beauty: Glass from Croatian Museums, held under the high auspices of the president of the Republic of Croatia, Ivo JosipoviÊ, was organized and installed in three museums in Zagreb - the Museum of Arts and Crafts, the Archaeological Museum and the Mimara Museum. Through the selection of more than 600 artefacts it presents the achievements in artistic and craft creativity in working with glass, over a time period stretching from ancient history to present day. This unique project is the first to offer the Croatian and international public the opportunity to have complete insight into part of the heritage of the Croatian museums through the most representative examples of glass objects. The team of museum experts from all around Croatia who processed the materials in the holdings was headed by the authors of the exhibition, who were also responsible for the final selection of exhibits, Lada RatkoviÊ BukovËan, M.A., and Zoran Gregl, Ph.D.
SreÊko Budek, MUO
Pokal s poklopcem, ©leska, oko 1710., Muzej za umjetnost i obrt Zagreb A carafe with a lid, Silesiak, around 1710, Museum of Arts and Crafts Zagreb
Garnitura za piÊe, BeË, 1850/60-tih, Muzej Slavonije Osijek A drinks set, Vienna, 1850/60, Museum of Slavonia in Osijek
SreÊko Budek, MUO
The exhibition is divided into three sections which take place simultaneously at three museums. The Archaeological Museum in Zagreb presents glass production created over an extensive period of time, from the 2nd millennium B.C. to the 14th century. The selected exhibits document and illustrate the wealth of glass creations from the ancient and medieval periods which are kept in Croatian museums, and which mostly originate from archaeological sites around Croatia. The selection presented in the Archaeological Museum in Zagreb was completed with items from the holdings of fourteen other museums, from Pula to Narona, from Split to –akovo and Osijek, as well as a selection from the unique corpus of ancient Roman findings stored at the Museum of Ancient Glass in Zadar. A chronological overview of part of the exhibition at the Archaeological Museum concludes with examples of medieval glass production (6th to 14th century). Specific features of Western European and Islamic glass production are mostly illustrated by the items from the holdings of the Mimara Museum. The second part of the exhibition, installed at the Museum of Arts and Crafts, presents superb achievements in glass production of the modern era. The selection of over 360 exhibits, selected from the holdings of twenty Croatian museums, offers an overview of representative glass creations in the time period ranging from the 15th to the late 20th century. Selected based on the criterion of excellence, the displayed artefacts represent the highest achievements in design, technological and craftsmanship knowhow, stylistic and shaping features, reflecting the complexity of the culture of living, imbued with a subtle feel for the beauty of transparency. In a chronological sequence covering five centuries, the most representative selection of superior glassworks follows the manifestation of changes in styles through design features, ranging from the Renaissance to Art Deco. The wealth of techniques and the vast design repertoire is presented in the exhibits from the Croatian museums - from the unstoppable rise of Murano workshops in the 15th and 16th centuries, to the Baroque interplay of crystal surfaces and matted glass in the works of Potsdam, to the Silesian workshops and the perfection of Czech glass creations from the 17th and 18th centuries, to the refined expression of the strong individuality of designers from the first decades of the 20th century. In addition to stylistic, design and technological distinctiveness, emphasis was also put on the authors’ personalities and workshops which have left a significant mark on modern European glass production (F. Egermann, A. Kothgasser, workshops by J. & L. Lobmeyr, Salviati, Tiffany, Gallé, Lalique, etc.).
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Igor Krajcar
Dno sa zlatnim prikazom, ©trbinci, 360.-400.g., Muzej –akoviπtine –akovo Gilded glass base of a dish from ©trbinci, year 360 - 400, Museum of –akovo Region, –akovo Okupljanje za Posljednju veËeru, Anton VrliÊ
Goran VraniÊ
Gathering before the Last Supper, Anton VrliÊ
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The creations of the 19th century Croatian glass workshops are a separate unit (Ivanovo Polje, Osredek, ZveËevo, Duboka), which are best represented by the holdings of the Museum of Arts and Crafts and the Poæega City Museum. These stand out from the others based on the characteristics of their design and their decorations with prominent patriotic significance. This section of the exhibition is dominated by the contributions from the holdings of the Museum of Arts and Crafts, with artefacts which represent the highest achievements of the European workshops, from the time of the Renaissance to the second half of the 20th century, when exceptional glass sculpting creations were crafted by Croatian authors like Antun Motika and Raoul Goldoni. The diversity of the ascent of craftsmanship and artistic glass production and the comprehensive insight into the highest creative achievements of specific stylistic periods complement the most representative specimens selected from the holdings of the Marton Museum, Mimara Museum, Varaædin City Museum, Museum of Slavonia in Osijek, museums in Dubrovnik and the other museums taking part in this exhibition. The third section of the exhibition, installed at the Mimara Museum, entitled Transparent Beauty - Glass Works by Contemporary Croatian Artists, extends the story of glass to the 21st century. Creative design possibilities in the medium of glass are brought to life in the works of contemporary Croatian artists such as Kuzma KovaËiÊ, Draæen TrogrliÊ, Kaæimir Hraste, Anton VrliÊ, Jeronim Tiπljar, Jagoda BuiÊ, Mihael ©tebih, Gordana DrinkoviÊ and Petar DoliÊ. As a result of the cooperation between thirtythree Croatian museums, the culturological exhibition project Transparent Beauty: Glass from Croatian Museums presents, for the first time, the finest selection from the rich collections of glass in the museums in Croatia. From a cultural and historical viewpoint, a dual significance of the selected items can be observed: on the one hand, it is emphasized that top-quality glass products made in European workshops were a part of the interior decoration in Croatia as a significant component of the culture of living, and on the other hand, that by finding a place in the holdings of Croatian museums they became a lasting testimony to the stylistic and technological development of European glass production. In addition to the achievements of civilization and the unlimited possibilities of creativity, the selected examples of transparent beauty clearly testify that the wealth of the collections of glass in the museums in Croatia clearly complements the holdings of museum treasuries around Europe. n
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Dobrodoπli na otok Rab, grad i otok Ëudesne krajobrazne raznolikosti, prekrasnih raznovrsnih plaæa, kulturoloπke sredine od predrimskih vremena obiljeæena obrisima Ëetiri zvonika, grad bogatog povijesnog nasljea oplemenjenog u istinski doæivljaj, dugih i ugodnih πetnica, tradicije od 125 godina organiziranog bavljenja turizmom, ljubaznosti, gostoljubivosti i marljivosti otoËkog stanovniπtva.
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Welcome to the island of Rab, a town and island of marvellous scenic diversity, a variety of beautiful beaches, a cultural milieu dating back to pre-Roman times, with its four characteristic bell-towers, a town of rich historic heritage further refined into a complete experience for the senses, long pleasant walks, more than 120 years of experience in organised tourism and to cap it all, the kindness, hospitality and diligence of the island’s people.
Izdaπno more, bogastvo prirodnim ljekovitim biljem, plodna polja, vinogradi, maslinici, ali prije svega ljudi, Rabljani, πto se iskreno raduju svakome gostu i primaju ga kao dragog prijatelja, Ëine ovaj otok modernom destinacijom za odmor tijekom cijele godine, prepoznatljivim odrediπtem Mediterana na Jadranu koje je u trendu.
A bountiful sea, rich in natural healing herbs, fertile fields, vineyards and olive groves but also, first and foremost, the people of Rab, genuinely glad to see every guest, each of whom they receive as a dear friend. That is what makes this Mediterranean Adriatic island a top holiday destination all year round.
Sve prethodno navedene Ëinjenice prepoznali su i stari rimljani te su u joπ u III stoljeÊu otoku nadjenuli tituli “Felix Arba” - sretan otok
All the mentioned facts where recognized already in the III century by the Romans, who titled Rab as a “Felix Arba” - happy Rab
TZG Raba tel. +385 ( 0 )51 724 064 www.tzg-rab.hr
TZO Lopar tel. +385 ( 0 )51 775 508 www.lopar.com
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■ BAŠTINA HERITAGE
Majka Milosti, slika, rad sv. Luke Evaneliste, 14 st. Mother of Mercy, picture, painted by St. Luke the Evangelist, 14th century
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Bazilika Gospe Trsatske Shrine of Our Lady of Trsat
Piše/By Goran Stojanović Fotografije/Photos Damir Fabijanić CROATIA AIRLINES
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Sluga je onaj, koji ne sluæi nikoga, svjesno. Gospodar je onaj, koji sluæi druge, samosvjesno. V. KrmpotiÊ, 108 x 108, 21 knjiga,6. pjesma
Trsatska gradina, iz zraka Trsat Fort, from the air
A servant is the one who serves nobody, consciously. A master is the one who serves others, self-consciously. V. KrmpotiÊ, ‘108 x 108’, 21st book, 6th poem
Trsat je prostor viteπkog ozraËja, matrica iz koje je roena Rijeka, grad u srcu Kvarnera. Ovdje se jedna visinska urbanost ponosi svojim drevnim kaπtelom te Marijanskim svetiπtem, u koje mnogobrojni hodoËasnici dolaze znajuÊi zaπto su izabrali prostor prepoznavanja sebe u drugima, prostor u kojemu srce, a ne um æeli sjediti na prijestolju æivota. Trsat is an area which exudes a knightly atmosphere; it is the matrix from which Rijeka was born as the city in the heart of Kvarner Bay. This is where an elevated urban tissue basks in the glory of its ancient castle and Marian shrine, the ultimate place of pilgrimage for many pilgrims who know why they have chosen a place where they recognize themselves in others, a place where the heart and not the mind wants to sit on the throne of life.
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Stube Petra KruæiÊa Petar KruæiÊ Stairway
ad se god smjerno uspinjemo na neku planinu ili visoravan, na vrh stiæemo snagom volje i osvijeπtenim naporom. Dosegnuti vrh, proπiriti vidik, utonuti u veliËanstveno okruæje pruæa osjeÊaj uzleta, odjednom to postaje prostor slobode dotaknut letom ptice. SjeÊam se da sam joπ kao mladiÊ, uspinjuÊi se stubama Petra KruæiÊa, prvi put posjetio Trsat. PenjuÊi se, polako prebrojavajuÊi mnogobrojne stube s nestrpljenjem sam dostizao vrh, osvojenu kotu pobjede i uspjeha, opravdan razlog osobna umora. VeÊ tada osjetio sam da uspinjanje bez osvojena vrha i nije osobito zanimljiv i hvalevrijedan napor. Na dosegnutom vrhu tad ugledah urbani prostor, Ëaroban svijet Ëiji se dodir sa stvarnoπÊu mjeri drugaËijim parametrima od onih na koje smo naviknuli. Trsat se dolaznicima postupno otkriva, posebice onima koji su spremni mijenjati ustaljenost uobiËajena i predvidljiva hoda, prilagoena tek za opÊu svakidaπnjost. Ovdje se sreÊu vjera i svjetovnost, svijet materije i svijet duha, svijet odvaænosti, stvaranja, æivotnog promiπljanja sa svijetom Ëiste svijesti, koja svoj svemirski prostor nudi bez naknade. Nasljednik Trsata njegov je rodnik − Rijeka, grad kozmopolitskog duha dobronamjernih ljudi. Ovdje se uπÊem u more Kvarnerskog zaljeva ulijeva vodeni tok devetnaestkilometarske RjeËine, a od 16. stoljeÊa uz obalu njegova zaljeva ukotvila se i najveÊa luka sjevernog Jadrana, dovoljno duboka za uplovljavanje i najveÊih brodova. Smjerno se, u podnoæju UËke, najviπe planine istarskog poluotoka, smjestio grad izraæena dijaloga, koji u svojoj æivotnosti, na humaniji i mirniji naËin, dosljedno ispisuje preludij zdruæivanja i zbliæavanja svojih stanovnika. Na vrhu gradske krune istoËnog dijela grada Rijeke, na tjemenu trsatskog brda, davno je CROATIA AIRLINES
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poËela jedna priËa s odabirom pozicije za vidikovac, utvrdu, izvoriπte buduÊega grada. Korijen njegova naziva vjerojatno je keltskoga porijekla sastavljenoga od rijeËi tar, brijeg, i sa, rijeka, te bi Tarsa znaËilo brdo nad rijekom, kazuje Igor Æic, prozaik, povjesniËar i esejist. U to doba RjeËina se nazivala Tarsis, a grad na uπÊu Tarsatica joπ i prije dolaska Rimljana, koji su je svojim dolaskom odmah prepoznali za uËvrπÊivanje svoga obrambenog sustava. U vrijeme seoba naroda Tarsatica je bila razorena, u prvoj polovici 13. stoljeÊa obnovljena i otad nosi ime Rijeka sv. Vida. Stara utvrda Tarsata tad je nazvana Trsat. U neposrednoj blizini crkve Gospe Trsatske, najstarijega hrvatskoga marijanskog svetiπta i franjevaËkog samostana, i danas æivi obnovljena ranosrednjovjekovna utvrda, smjeπtena na vrhu 138 metarske uzvisine s koje se pruæa veliËanstven vidik, usmjeren sjedinjenoj ljepoti nebeskog plavetnila, morske puËine i grada mu nasljednika. Na tome je pogodnome mjestu, joπ od prapovijesnih vremena Liburna, bila osmatraËnica s koje se kontrolirao put iz unutraπnjosti prema moru. U razdoblju Rimskog Carstva, tijekom prvih stoljeÊa poslije Krista, Rimljani su na tome mjestu sagradili svoju utvrdu s Rimskom kulom, i danas najveÊim okruglim arhitektonskim elementom gradine. Zanimljivo je pogledati u povijest neke utvrde. Poznata je ideja da je Ëovjek svoj sijaË i æetelac, da uËi od sebe sama kako se uspinjati i padati u nebrojenim civilizacijama. Upravo nam o tome i utvrde govore: o prolaznosti moÊi i æivotnim vrijednostima koje trebaju biti viπe od onih πto ih samo u vanjskom svijetu oËima vidimo. Trsatska gradina prvi put spominje se kao sjediπte æupe 1288. godine, prilikom sastavljanja poznatoga Vinodolskog zakonika, jednoga od najstarijih pravnih dokumenata pisanih na hrvatskom jeziku, u kojemu je ureen odnos krËkih knezova i vinodolskog stanovniπtva preko opseæno razraenoga kriviËnoga prava. Tada je crkva sv. Jurja podno kaπtela bila sjediπte æupe koja se poklapala s podruËjem plemiÊkoga gospodarstva knezova KrËkih, poslije preimenovanih u Frankopane, koji su joπ 1193. s otoka Krka svoju vlast proπirili i na kopno u Hrvatskom primorju. U njihovu posjedu Trsat se nalazio do potkraj 15. stoljeÊa kad Fridrih III. Habsburπki nasljeuje Rijeku, a s njim trsatski kaπtel prelazi u ruke rijeËkih carskih kapetana, Ëiju funkciju ukida tek carica Marija Terezija 1778. godine predajuÊi Trsat novoosnovanome municipiju grada − kotaru Bakar. Od tog vremena, trsatski Kaπtel gubi svoju strateπku vrijednost i prihode, polako mu kopni ugled i moÊ. Na njegovim tornjevima raste brπljan, a graevinski ostaci od snaænog 32
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Vidikovac, Trsatska gradina A view from Trsat Fort
Ljetna blagovaonica franjevaËkog samostana Summer Dining Hall of the Franciscan Monastery
Aula pape Ivana Pavla II, detalj Pope John Paul II Pastoral Centre, detail
Rimska kula, Trsatska gradina Roman tower, Trsat Fort
potresa 1750. godine Ëekaju neko novo vrijeme moguÊe obnove… Nakon gotovo pola stoljeÊa otkupljuje ga austrijski feldmarπal grof Laval Nugent od Westmeahta te obnavlja u duhu europskog bidermajera i romantike; ulaznu tornju dodaje neogotiËke prozore i ukrasne detalje, a postojeÊu Rimsku kulu okrunjuje gibelinskim grudobranima. U sredini Kaπtela podiæe mauzolej svoje obitelji u obliku rimskog hrama s klasicistiËkim proËeljem i natpisom Mir junacima. Za grofa Nugenta, veÊ tada poznati kipar Anton Dominik von Fernkorn 1863. godine izrauje dva zmaja koja se postavljaju ispred hrama. Jedan je i danas na svome mjestu, djelomiËno oπteÊen, a drugi je pohranjen u kaπtelu. Fernkornova djela krase i druge hrvatske gradove: sv.Juraj koji ubija zmaja uljepπava prostor ispred Hrvatskog narodnog kazaliπta u Zagrebu, a pozlaÊeni kip Majke Boæje Bezgreπnog ZaËeÊa 1882. godine postavlja se ispred zagrebaËke katedrale. Svakako, njegov najpoznatiji rad u Hrvatskoj jest konjaniËki spomenik banu Josipu JelaËiÊu na srediπnjemu zagrebaËkom trgu. Tijekom Drugoga svjetskog rata Kaπtel uvelike propada, sve do druge polovice 20. stoljeÊa kada gradina postaje rijeËkom tvravom na kojoj je u Hrvatskoj izveden prvi konzervatorski zahvat u srednjevjekovnoj spomeniËkoj arhitekturi. Trsatska gradina jedna je od najstarijih fortifikacija u Hrvatskom primorju, koja je svoje kamene zidine funkcionalne arhitekture, podreene vojniËkim potrebama, uzdignula prema nebu na mjestu gdje je æivot htio dati svoj svemirski otisak. Danas je gradina obogaÊena sadræajima galerijskih prostora s likovnim izloæbama, ljetnim koncertima, knjiæevnim veËerima i kazaliπnim predstavama na otvorenome. Svaki grad ima svoju svjetlosnu toËku. Rijeci je to Trsat, vidik s kojega se vladalo, branilo naslijeeno, gradilo novo. Ipak, ovdje je to i prostor s kojega se najlakπe prihvaÊa mudrost sluæenja, gdje se istina, ljepota i dobrota ne razaznaju jedna od druge u skupnom imenu ljubavi. Ovdje, uz svjetovnu utvrdu, od 13. stoljeÊa izranja i duhovni Trsat s pridjevom Marijin, najstarije nacionalno i πirom svijeta poznato svetiπte Blaæene Djevice Marije, Gospe Trsatske. Ovo svetiπte naziva se joπ i Hrvatski Nazaret, koji u svojem graditeljskom sklopu sjedinjava prostor omeen crkvom Gospe Trsatske, franjevaËkim samostanom s perivojem, brdom Fortica s Kriænim putem te novim Pastoralnim centrom Ivana Pavla II. Znate li kako nastaju svetiπta? Gdje se god nalazila, njihova magnetska snaga izvire iz njihova postojanja, bez obzira na to priznavale ih ili osporavale crkvene ili svjetovne vlasti. Ionako, prema znastvenim naËelima sve ono πto CROATIA AIRLINES
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ne moæe biti objaπnjeno ljudskim razumom, ne moæe biti istinito; pretvara se u priËu, predaju ili legendu. Prema predaji i pisanim kronikama, na trsatsko brdo, otprilike na sredini danaπnjih trsatskih stuba, 10. svibnja 1291. na Ëudesan je naËin iz Nazareta stigla BogorodiËina kuÊa. Radnici koji su tada radili u πumi trsatskog brda naiπli su na kuÊicu poloæenu na teren, Ëija je konstrukcija bila 9,52 m duæine i 4,10 metara πirine, a dotad je nisu vidjeli. To ih je posve iznenadilo, jer taj se kraj spuπtao strmo prema moru i na njemu nisu postojali nikakvi objekti za boravak ljudi. Studija iz 1893. godine Guillema Garratta sa SveuËiliπta u Cambridgeu iznosi podatak da je tadaπnji trsatski æupnik, Aleksandar JurjeviÊ, bolestan i oduzet sveÊenik, bio o svemu brzo izvijeπten. On je veÊ u snu imao Gospino ukazanje koje mu je potvrdilo da je to njezina kuÊa iz Nazareta. Uz ukazanje dobio je i svjetovnu potvrdu, u trenutaËnom ozdravljenju. »uvπi πto se dogodilo, trsatski vlastelin i tadaπnji krËki knez Nikola Frankopan doπao je na Trsat da se uvjeri u vjerodostojnost informacija. Odmah je, o svom troπku, izaslao u Palestinu i Nazaret izaslanstvo od tri osobe, meu njima i æupnika, koji su ga nakon povratka s viπemjeseËnog putovanja brodom i kopnom izvijestili πto su ondje doznali i vidjeli. Naime, istodobno s prelaskom kuÊe na Trsat, izvijestilo
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ga je izaslanstvo, Marijina rodna kuÊa u Nazaretu nestala je 9. svibnja 1291. a da ondje nitko nije znao kako. Na Trsatu je nazaretska kuÊa bila tri godine i jednako Ëudesno preπla u talijanski gradiÊ Loreto, u blizini Ancone, 10. prosinca 1294., gdje se i danas nalazi. Nad njom se sagradilo veliko svetiπte s bazilikom Chiesa della Santa Casa. Povijesno, postoji vjerojatnost da su kriæari, nakon poraza u Svetoj zemlji 1287., nastojali skloniti dio svetih predmeta koji su se ondje nalazili, pa tako i dijelove nazaretske kuÊe, a dio je te kuÊe ostao u Nazaretu i danas je vidljiv u bazilici Navjeπtenja. To kriæarsko rjeπenje objaπnjava da je graa Svete kuÊe u Loretu barem djelomiËno vjerodostojna relikvija iz Nazareta, a neobjaπnjivi prijenos smatra se legendom. UmijeÊe sumnjanja i umijeÊe vjerovanja izrazi su iste intuicije; zasijani jedan u drugome i vidljivi jedan s pomoÊu drugoga. Osobama kojima je svijet jednine na srcu ne traæe niπta manje od toga. U svakodnevnom æivljenju rijetko se pitamo kako raste cvijet i zaπto djeca tako lako æive sebe bez ustruËavanja od neprihvaÊanja pravila druπtva odraslih. Letjeti, to je jednostavno, govore starije ptice mlaima. Samo raπiriπ krila… U Ëast BogorodiËine kuÊe na Trsatu, knez Nikola I. Frankopan u 14. stoljeÊu na Trsatu podiæe kapelicu, a njegov sin Martin 1453. godine na vrhu Trsata financira gradnju franjevaËkog samostana s crkvom Blaæene Djevice Marije. Od te crkve saËuvani su danas samo fragmenti. Tadaπnja crkva proπirena je za joπ jedan brod te barokno ureena 1644. godine i otad ostaje dvobrodna. Novo bidermajersko proËelje, barokni zvonik i svoje πestometarsko produæenje dobiva 1824. godine. UnutraπnjoπÊu dvobrodne crkve dominira trijumfalni luk svetiπta s glavnim oltarom bazilike sa slikom Majke Milosti, darom pape Urbana V. trsatskom svetiπtu. Svetiπte je i najstariji dio crkve, a barokni oltar iz 1692. godine pripisuje se Giovanniju Pasccassiju. Ispred svetiπta nalazi se Kristovo raspelo na kovanoj reπetki, jedinstvenom djelu barokne umjetnosti s oltarima sv. Mihovila i sv. Katarine − slikama Serafina Schöna, a iznad svega dominira slika Navjeπtenje s prijenosom Nazaretske kuÊice Christophera Tasce iz 1714. godine. U bazilici su poloæeni i posmrtni ostaci hrvatskog bana Nikole VI. Frankopana, Martina Frankopana i njegove supruge Ursule. U blizini je sahranjen i uskoËki kapetan Klisa Petar KruæiÊ, koji je o svom troπku 1531. godine dao graditi zavjetne trsatske stube πto su se dograivale stoljeÊima. Prvotno je postavljeno 128 stuba, danas ih je viπe od petsto, a uz njih je i nekoliko zavjetnih kapela. Kada se u srediπtu Suπaka proe ulazno barokni trijem Tjeπiteljice æalosnih iz 1745.,
kroËi se stopama nebrojenih hodoËasnika koji su Ëesto i na koljenima prelazili taj put da bi se poklonili Gospi Trsatskoj. Kroz trijemove i kapele 561 stuba iznijet Êe nas visoko iznad kanjona RjeËine. Ovdje se arhitektonski istiËu i dvije zavjetne kapele u gotiËkom stilu: kapela na spomen dolaska nazaretske kuÊice 1291. godine, koju je dao podiÊi knez Mikula Frankopan 1410. godine, te KruæiÊeva, u vrtu franjevaËkog samostana. Bazilika Gospe Trsatske s franjevaËkim samostanom oËarava ljepotom. U samostanu dominira veliki klaustar s kriænim svodovima, tu se nalazi i ljetna blagovaonica s riznicom vrijednih umjetniËkih slika, bogatom knjiænicom i arhivom jer u njemu su franjevci dugo vodili filozofsku i bogoslovnu πkolu. U sklopu samostana nalazi se i kapela zavjetnih darova sa skulpturom Gospe Slunjske, u koju su vjernici poloæili svoje zavjetne darove s prezentiranim svjedoËanstvima o Ëudesnim izbavljenjima i ozdravljenjima. Sve πto je na zemlji sveto i uspravno, muπkarac i æena, more i obale, travnjaci i πume, sunËani je sat koji svoje vrijeme mjeri svojim hodom, svakodnevnom πetnjom sunca od istoka prema zapadu, na mjesto joπ jednoga ljudskog dana zapisanoga u zvijezdama. A Ëovjek u prolaznom svijetu æeli ostaviti trag svoje vjeËnosti. Tako i riznica samostana Ëuva bogatstvo mnogih zavjetnih darova. U njoj se u osobitim mikroklimatskim uvjetima Ëuva ikona Marija Milosti, koju je prema tradiciji Hrvatima 1367. darovao papa Urban V. zatekavπi ih na hodoËaπÊu u Loretu, neutjeπne zbog nestanka i gubitka nazaretske kuÊe s Trsata. Tu se nalaze i darovi najuglednijih habsburπkih vladara: Leopolda I., dvoglavi zlatni orao optoËen draguljima Karla V., misno ruho πto ga je darovala carica Marija Terezija. Ljepotom oËarava i skulptura Bogorodice u srebru, zatim gotiËki, renesansni, barokni i klasicistiËki relikvijari, unikatni molitvenik Raj Duπe iz 1560., koji je pripadao Katarini Frankopan, te ostale dragocjenosti prikupljene kroz stoljeÊa. Rijeka i njezin Trsat, Trsat i njegova Rijeka oduvijek æive koncepciju temeljne simetrije, zajedniπtva i dodira. Na brdu grada obitava njegov krunski biser, izvor i vrh, kraljevstvo jedinstva koje svojom prisutnoπÊu i osebujnom povijeπÊu ne sputava svoje naslijee da æivi u slobodi izbora. Ovdje se dodiruje povijesni, vjerski, kulturni, obrazovni i graditeljski sklop pradavne Rijeke, njegov nastanak, neprekinut pjev æivljenja, mir hrabrih i odvaænih. n
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henever we humbly set out to climb a mountain or a plateau, we reach its peak as a result of willpower and through a conscious effort. To arrive at a summit, to broaden our horizons, to become immersed in a magnificent environment − all
Ljetna blagovaonica franjevaĂ&#x2039;kog samostana iz 17 st. Summer Dining Hall of the Franciscan Monastery from the 17th century
Trsatski hodoËasnik, papa Ivan Pavao II., skulptura, rad Antuna JurkoviÊa Trsat Pilgrim, Pope John Paul II, sculpture, the work of Antun JurkoviÊ
of this provides a sense of elation; and all of a sudden this becomes an area of freedom touched by a bird’s flight. I remember the first time I climbed the Petar KruæiÊ Stairway and visited Trsat as a young lad. I slowly climbed up the hill while counting the endless steps, eager to reach the summit, which was at an elevation which needed to be reached to achieve a feeling of victory and success, a justified reason for being tired. I realized as early as then that a mere climb without conquering a summit was not a particularly interesting or praise-worthy effort. When I finally got there, I saw an urban area; an astounding world where the convergence with reality is measured in parameters different from those we are used to. Trsat reveals itself to its visitors gradually, particularly to those who are prepared to depart from the predictability of a normal pace, adapted to commonplace mundanity. This place is a meeting point of faith and secularity, of the material and spiritual worlds, the world of audacity, creation and life reflection, on the one hand, with the world of pure consciousness, on the other, which generously proffers its cosmic space asking for no compensation in return. The descendant of Trsat is its relative − Rijeka, a city with a cosmopolitan spirit inhabited by well-minded people. The 19-kilometre long RjeËina enters the sea in the Kvarner Bay, and since the 16th century, this largest harbour in the Northern Adriatic has existed on the bay’s shores where the sea is deep enough to allow entry to even the largest of ships. At the foot of UËka, the tallest mountain on the Istrian Peninsula, the city of Rijeka lives its unassuming life. Its main quality is dialogue; full of vitality, Rijeka is a city which consistently writes a prelude to the partnership and friendship of its inhabitants in a humane and calm way. A long time ago, a tale started on the top of the city crown towering over the eastern part 36
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of the city of Rijeka, on the vertex of Trsat Hill. That was when a position was chosen for a lookout, a fortress, the source of a future city. The root of its name is probably of Celtic origin; it is a derivative of the word tar meaning hill and sa meaning river, so Tarsa would mean a hill above a river, says Igor Æic, a writer, historian and essayist. At that time, the RjeËina was known by the name Tarsis, and the city at its confluence was Tarsatica. When the Romans arrived in the area, they immediately recognized it as a stronghold and incorporated it into their defence system. During the migration of peoples, Tarsatica was destroyed; it was rebuilt in the first half of the 13th century and renamed The River (Rijeka) of St. Vitus. The old fortress Tarsata became known as Trsat. Perched upon a 138 metre high elevation from which a view extends and embraces the glorious beauty of the blue sky, the sea expanse and the city, the refurbished fortress from the early middle ages still lives close to the Franciscan monastery and the Church of our Lady of Trsat, the oldest Marian shrine in Croatia. Already in the prehistoric period, the Liburnians had an observation post in this auspicious place from which they could control the road leading from the continent towards the sea. During the first centuries after Christ, the Romans built their stronghold here. Its tower is still the biggest round architectural feature of the old castle. Looking at the history of a fortress makes for an interesting exercise. Man is known to be his own sower and harvester; every civilization learns how to climb and how to fall again and again. This is precisely the message conveyed by fortresses: power is ephemeral while life values need to be loftier that those that meet the eye. The Trsat Castle was first mentioned as the seat of a diocese in 1288 when the famous Vinodol Codex was being drafted and which became one of the oldest legal documents written in Croatian. The document regulated the relationship between the Krk nobility and the population of Vinodol by establishing a thorough criminal law system. At the time, the Church of St. George at the foot of the castle was the seat of the diocese which covered the territory ruled by the noble counts of Krk who later became known as the Frankopan family. As early as 1193, they expanded their authority from the Island of Krk to the Croatian littoral. Trsat was in their hands until the end of the 15th century when Frederick III inherited Rijeka and made the Trsat Castle the responsibility of the imperial captains of Rijeka. Their post was abolished by Empress Maria Theresa in 1778 when she handed Trsat over to the newly established city municipium − the district of Bakar.
From that moment on, the Trsat Castle gradually lost its strategic value and consequently its revenues; its reputation and power slowly subsided. Ivy started growing on its turrets. The remains that withstood the strong earthquake in 1750 waited patiently for the time when restoration would be possible... After nearly half a century, the property was purchased by Austrian Field Marshal Count Laval Nugent of Westmeaht who restored it in the spirit of the European Biedermeier and Romanticism. He added neo-gothic windows and decorative elements to the entrance tower, and crowned the existing Roman tower with the Ghibelline bulwarks. He erected a family mausoleum in the middle of the castle in the shape of a Roman temple with a classicistic facade and the inscription Mir Junaka (Peace for Heroes). In 1863, the already well known sculptor Anton Dominik von Fernkorn sculpted two dragons for Count Nugent who placed them in front of the temple. One is still standing in its original place, partly damaged, while the other is safeguarded in the castle. Fernkorn’s masterpieces can be found in some other Croatian cities: St. George killing a dragon embellishes an open space in front of the Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb, while the gilded sculpture of the Immaculate Conception of the Mother of God was erected in 1882 in front of the Zagreb Cathedral. His best known work in Croatia is the equestrian monument to Viceroy Josip JelaËiÊ in Zagreb’s central square. During World War II, the castle fell into a state of disrepair and remained largely neglected until the mid-20th century when the remains of the old edifice became the fortress of Rijeka and the first location in Croatia where conservation works were carried out on a monument of medieval architecture. The complex of Trsat is one of the oldest fortifications on the Croatian littoral. The architectural design of its stone walls once served a military purpose; they reached towards the sky in a place where life wanted to make its cosmic mark. Since then, the complex has been enhanced with galleries where exhibitions regularly take place, as well as summer concerts, literary evenings and outdoor theatre performances. Every city has its light point. For Rijeka, it is Trsat, a vantage point from which rulers ruled, defended their inheritance and built new things. This is also the point where the wisdom of servitude was most easily accepted; where truth, beauty and goodness are not distinguished from each other within the common name of love. This is where spiritual Trsat emerged in the 13th century next to the secular fortress. It is the oldest national Marian shrine, famous all over
the world as the shrine of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Trsat. It is also known as the Croatian Nazareth, a complex which encompasses the Church of Our Lady of Trsat, the Franciscan Monastery with a park, Fortica Hill with the Way of the Cross, and the new Pastoral Centre of Pope John Paul II. Do you know how shrines come to be? Wherever they are, their magnetic force originates from their existence, irrespective of whether they are recognized or disputed by sacral or secular authorities. In any case, according to scientific principles, everything that cannot be explained by the human mind cannot be true and therefore becomes a tale or a legend. According to legend and written chronicles, the birth house of our Lady miraculously arrived from Nazareth and landed on Trsat Hill on 10 May 1291, roughly in the middle of the current stairway. The workers who worked in the forest on the slopes of Trsat Hill found a small house that they had not seen before. It was 9.52 metres long and 4.10 metres wide. They were taken by surprise because the slope was steep, sharply descending towards the sea where there were no buildings fit for human habitation. In a study drafted in 1893 by Guillemo Garratt from Cambridge University we read that the then rector of Trsat, Aleksandar JurjeviÊ, who was sick and lame, was soon informed about everything. The Lady had already appeared to him in a dream and told him her house would arrive from Nazareth. In addition to the apparition, he also received an earthly confirmation − he was instantaneously cured. Having heard what had happened, a Trsat nobleman and the then duke of Krk, Nikola Frankopan, arrived in Trsat to convince himself of the veracity of the development. He immediately dispatched, at his own expense, a delegation of three people to Palestine and Nazareth, among them the parish rector. When they returned from the sea and land journey which had lasted several months, they told him what they had heard and seen there. Exactly the day before Mary’s house arrived in Trsat, on 9 May 1291, the house where she was born in Nazareth disappeared, nobody knew how. The house from Nazareth stayed in Trsat for three years and then, equally miraculously, went to Loreto, near Ancona, on 10 December 1294, where it still stands. A large shrine, with the Basilica Chiesa della Santa Casa was built around it. In historical terms, it is likely that the crusaders who were defeated in the Holy Land in 1287 tried to shelter some of the sacred items they had found there, including parts of the Nazareth house. A part of that house remained in Nazareth and can still be seen in the Basilica
FranjevaËki samostan, detalj ulaznog atrija Franciscan Monastery, detail of the entrance atrium
Detalj baroknog oltara Bazilike Detail of the Baroque altar in the Shrine
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Barokni oltar Bazilike iz 1692. god. Baroque altar in the Shrine from 1692
of the Annunciation. The crusaders’ solution explains that the building material of the Holy House in Loreto is at least partially an authentic relic from Nazareth, whereas the inexplicable transport is considered a part of the legend. The art of doubt and the art of faith are expressions of the same intuition: sown one in the other and one visible with the help of the other. People who have the world of unity at heart seek nothing less than that. In everyday life we rarely ask ourselves how a flower grows or how come children live their lives so easily, so unscrupulously free from accepting the rules of adult society. Flying is easy − this is what adult birds say to their young ones. You just spread your wings... To honour the house of the Mother of God in Trsat, Count Nikola I Frankopan erected a chapel in Trsat in the 14th century. In 1453, his son Martin funded the building of a Franciscan monastery with the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary on the summit of Trsat. Only fragments remain of that church today. The church was enlarged in 1644 when the second nave was added to it and decorated in the baroque style. Ever since then, it has remained a twonave church. The new Biedermeier facade, the baroque belfry and a six-metre long extension were added in 1824. The interior of the two-nave church is dominated by the triumphal arch of the shrine with 38
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the principal altar of the basilica depicting an image of the Mother of Mercy, a gift from Pope Urban V to the Trsat shrine. The shrine is also the oldest part of the church, whereas the baroque altar dating back to 1692 is attributed to Giovanni Pasccassi. In front of the shrine is a Crucifix on a forged grid, a unique work of baroque art with altars dedicated to St. Michael and St. Catherine and painted by Serafin Schön. Above all that is the painting depicting the Annunciation with the Transport of the Holy House of Nazareth which Christopher Tasco painted in 1714. The basilica is the last resting place of the mortal remains of the Croatian viceroy Nikola VI Frankopan and his wife Ursula. The Uskok Captain of Klis, Petar KruæiÊ, was also buried here. He was the one who in 1531 funded the construction of the votive Trsat Stairway which has kept on being added to for centuries. Originally, there were 128 steps; today, there are over five hundred with a few votive chapels along them. The path to Trsat begins in the centre of Suπak. Having passed through the baroque portico of the Consoler of the Sad which was erected in 1745, one begins a journey following in the footstep of a myriad of pilgrims, many of whom walked to the shrine on their knees in order to bow to Our Lady of Trsat. Through porticoes and chapels, the 561
steps will take you high above the canyon of the RjeËina. Two remarkable architectural features are the two votive chapels built in the gothic style: the chapel commemorating the arrival of the Holy House of Nazareth in 1291, which was built by Count Mikula Frankopan in 1410, and KruæiÊ’s Chapel in the garden of the Franciscan monastery. The Basilica of Our Lady of Trsat captivates with its beauty. The monastery is dominated by a large cloister with cross vaults; there is a summer refectory with a treasury containing valuable works of art, an impressive library and an archive which testifies to the fact that for a number of years the Franciscan monks had their school of philosophy and a seminary here. The monastery also has a chapel for votive gifts with a sculpture of the Lady of Slunj, where worshipers laid their votive gifts and testimonies of miraculous healings and cures. All things sacred and erect that exist on this earth: man and woman, the sea and the shores, meadows and forests, all that is a sundial which measures time at its own pace; the daily passage of the sun from east to west, to the place of yet another human day which is inscribed in the stars. Human beings want to leave a trace of their eternity in the ephemeral world. Thus, the monastery’s treasury keeps the wealth of many votive gifts. One of them is the icon Mary of Mercy which is safeguarded in very special microclimate conditions. According to tradition, in 1367, Pope Urban V gave it to some Croats who were on a pilgrimage to Loreto, inconsolable after the disappearance of the Holy House from Trsat. The treasury also holds gifts by the most renowned Habsburg rulers: Leopold I, the two headed golden eagle encrusted with jewels by Charles V, chasubles donated by Empress Maria Theresa. Another thing of beauty is the silver sculpture of the Mother of God, as well as the gothic, renaissance, baroque and classicistic reliquaries, the unique prayer book The Heaven of Soul from 1560, which used to belong to Katarina Frankopan, as well as all the other valuables that have taken centuries to collect. Rijeka and its Trsat; Trsat and its Rijeka have always lived a concept of fundamental symmetry, unity and contact. The hilltop above the city is home to its crown jewel, its source and its summit, the kingdom of unity whose presence and remarkable past do not restrict anybody’s freedom of choice. This is where the historical, religious, cultural, educational and architectural identities of ancient Rijeka come together and tell the tale of its origins, of an interrupted song of life, of the peace brought to it by the courageous and audacious. n
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Piπe/By Luka BenËiÊ
Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ
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Utvrda Fortica (kod PaĎ&#x20AC;kog mosta) Fortica Fortress (by the Pag Bridge)
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Jezero Velo Blato Velo Blato Lake
Povljana
Gastronomija, bogata povijest, kulturna baπtina neprocjenjive vrijednosti, prirodne ljepote od kojih zastaje dah te vrhunska zabava samo su dio bogate turistiËke ponude Paga, po mnogoËemu jedinstvenoga jadranskog otoka. Na juænom i sjevernom dijelu otoka smjestila su se dva veÊa grada, Pag i Novalja, a u uvalama zaklonjenima od vjetra i na breæuljcima kriju se brojna manja naselja, živopisna ribarska i teæaËka sela koja, kao u reklami, zazivaju Mediteran kakav je nekad bio. CROATIA AIRLINES
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Pogled na solanu, Pag i paĎ&#x20AC;ki zaljev View of the salt pans, Pag and the Pag Bay
Gastronomy, a rich history, priceless cultural heritage, natural beauty which leaves one breathless and top entertainment are a part of the rich tourist offer of Pag, which is in many ways a unique Adriatic island. The islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s two biggest cities, Pag and Novalja, are situated in the southern and northern parts 44
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of the island, respectively. There are wind-sheltered coves and the hills hide many small settlements, picturesque ďŹ shing and farming villages that could have easily inspired the motto for the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s advertising campaign, the Mediterranean as it once was CROATIA AIRLINES
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Detalj stare baĂ&#x2039;ve Detail on an old barrel
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Paπka Ëipka Pag lace
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Paπka noπnja Pag national costume
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Detalj lunete sa zborne crkve Marijinog uznesenja u Pagu Pogled na pag View of Pag
Glavni trg u Pagu (pjaca) The main square in Pag
Detail of the Rose Window, Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Pag
Tradicionalna procesija za Velu Gospu Traditional procession on The Day of the Assumption (Vela Gospa)
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Plaæa RuËica i Metajna Kolan
©imuni
RuËica Beach and Metajna village
Suhozidi kod Novalje Dry walls near Novalja
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Kamp ©imuni ©imuni Camp
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PaĎ&#x20AC;ki sir (Sirana Gligora) Cheese of Pag (Gligora cheese producer)
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Hotel Boπkinac
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Novalja
AntiËki vodovod (poËetak u Gradskom muzeju u Novalji)
Jakiπnica
Plaæa ZrÊe ZrÊe Beach
The Ancient aqueduct (beginning in the Town Museum of Novalja)
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Masline u Lunu Olive trees in Lun
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ako je peti po veliËini, s Ëak 302,47 kilometara obale, Pag je najrazvedeniji jadranski otok Ëije vizure gledane s kopna podsjeÊaju na povrπinu Mjeseca. Naime, bura koja tijekom cijele godine, a osobito zimi, puπe s Velebita, stoljeÊima na Pag nanosi posolicu kojom je zamalo prekriven cijeli otok. Zbog izloæenosti snaænom vjetru Ëitava je strana okrenuta kopnu gotovo bez vegetacije, tek s pokojom travkom mediteranskog bilja koja viri izmeu stijena i Ëeka ovce da je obrste, pa Pag ne bez razloga katkad zovu otokom kamena. No, iako s vanjske strane djeluje surovo i negostoljubivo, kada se otvori njegova unutraπnjost, otok nam otkriva svoje blago lice. »ak 270 kilometara prekrasnih πljunËanih plaæa uz kristalno Ëisto more satkalo je sasvim osobitu paπku obalu, idealnu za sve vrste ljetnih aktivnosti, a to što ovdje imamo više od 2500 sunËanih sati godiπnje uvrπtava Pag meu najpoæeljnije ljetne destinacije. Sredinu otoka presijeca 15. meridijan po kojem se raËuna srednje europsko vrijeme, tako da je grad Pag imao i jedan od prvih sunËanih satova u Europi. Bonusi prirodnim predispozicijama svakako su i izvrsna prometna povezanost, s juæne strane 340 metara dug Paπki most iz pravca Zadra, a sa sjeverne trajekt Prizna − Æigljen. Takoer, tu su i brzobrodske linije koje otok s kopnom povezuju po vrlo pristupaËnim cijenama. Na juænom i sjevernom dijelu otoka smjestila su se dva veÊa grada, Pag i Novalja, a u uvalama zaklonjenima od vjetra i na breæuljcima kriju se brojna manja naselja, pitoreskna ribarska i teæaËka sela koja, kao u reklami, zazivaju Mediteran kakav je nekad bio. Naseljenost Paga datira joπ iz neolitika, a najstariji poznati naziv, Kissa, predilirskog je podrijekla i u 10. ga stoljeÊu spominje Konstantin Porfirogenet. U zaseoku Matejna na breæuljku Zaglava ostaci su zidnih slikarija ljudskih likova
nepoznate starosti, a brojni arheoloπki nalazi pokrivaju vremenski raspon od prapovijesti, odnosno bronËanog i kamenog doba, od kada datiraju gradinska naselja i grobni humci kojih ima po cijelom otoku, preko æeljeznog doba kada je ovdje æivjelo lirsko pleme Liburni, antiËkog, rimskog i ranokrπÊanskog razdoblja sve do srednjeg vijeka. Tragova bogate paπke povijesti ima i pod morem − u uvali Vlaπka Mala, uz sjeveroistoËnu obalu otoka, na dubini od oko 25 metara pronaeni su ostaci rimskog trgovaËkog broda s dobro oËuvanim amforama. To je nalaziπte zaπtiÊeno æeljeznim kavezom i danas je popularno odredište za ronioce. Pag je jedini hrvatski otok podijeljen pod administrativnu upravu dvije æupanije, LiËkosenjsku i Zadarsku. Grad Novalja, koji potpada pod LiËno-senjsku æupaniju, danas definitivno predstavlja turistiËko srediπte otoka. Joπ prije 30-40 godina Novalja je bila relativno skromno ribarsko naselje, a danas je grad s oko Ëetiri tisuÊe, s time da se ljeti, zajedno s okolnim naseljima, brojka povisi do Ëetrdeset tisuÊa. Uz Novalju, grad danas obuhvaÊa devet naselja, a to su Caska, Gajac, KustiÊi, Lun, Metajna, PotoËnica, Stara Novalja, VidaliÊi i ZuboviÊi. TuristiËki boom Novalja ponajprije moæe temeljiti na prekrasnoj πljunËanoj plaæi ZrÊe, smjeπtenoj oko 2 kilometra od središta grada. Nakon πto su na njoj sagraene diskoteke koje ljeti rade 24 sata na dan, plaæa je postala svjetsko partijanersko odrediπte poznato nadaleko izvan granica Hrvatske i s punim pravom katkad je nazivaju hrvatskom Ibizom. PriËa o partijanju na ZrÊu poËela je davno, joπ ranih 80-ih godina, no ekspanzija se dogodila s otvaranjem kultnog novaljskog kluba Kalypso 1988. godine. U poËetku novog tisuÊljeÊa poËinje kulminacija, kada na plaæu stiæu zagrebaËki klubovi Aquarius i Papaya, koji su se utaborili na mjestu nekadaπnjeg dis-
kokluba ZrÊe. Na ZrÊu ljeti nastupaju svjetski poznati DJ-i, plaæu pohode tisuÊe partijanera iz cijele Europe i s drugih kontinenata, a ta destinacija ugoπÊava kultni Hideout Festival koji je ugledni The Guardian 2011. godine uvrstio na listu najboljih svjetskih festivala. Osim po ZrÊu, Novalja je poznata i po joπ jednoj zanimljivosti − samo koji kilometar od grada, na vrhu Velo tusto Ëelo, nalazi se prirodni fenomen, megalitski otisak u kamenu poznat kao Paπki trokut. RijeË je o jednakokraËnom trokutu veliËine 32 puta 32 puta 22 metra, koji ima oblik otiska glaËala, a njegov nastanak neki povezuju s dolaskom NLO-a na otok u nekim davnim vremenima. Dok plesna glazba na ZrÊu privlaËi mlade turiste æeljne neprekidne zabave, za one koji æele neπto mirniji oblik ljetovanja Novalja takoer nudi pregrπt dogaanja kao πto su Novaljsko kulturno ljeto s umjetniËkim izloæbama, koncertima klasiËne glazbe, nastupima klapa i ansambala, folklornih skupina, predstavljanjima i prodajnim izloæbama knjiga, kazaliπnim predstavama, kinopredstavama na otvorenom i sliËnim sadræajima. Grad je to bogatog folklora poput tradicionalnih pjesama nakanat, koje se i dandanas njeguju i prezentiraju oduπevljenim turistima. Grad Pag, administrativno pod Zadarskom æupanijom, glavno je otoËko naselje koje ima oko pet tisuÊa stanovnika. Nastao 1443. godine preseljenjem stanovniπtva iz Starog Paga, grad obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima, od kojih su najznaËajniji crkva Marijinog Uznesenja, Kneæev dvor i kula Skrivana. Pag je sagraen po urbanistiËkom planu poznatoga hrvatskoga graditelja Jurja Dalmatinca, Ëije se ime vezuje uz glasovitu katedralu svetog Jakova u ©ibeniku. Uza sam grad, Pag danas tvori 10 naselja, Boπana, Dinjiπka, Gorica, Koπljun, MiπkoviÊi, Smokvica, Stara Vas, ©imuni, VlaπiÊi i VrËiÊi. Posebna turistiËka atrakcija u gradu ljetni
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je karneval koji se veÊ viπe od pola stoljeÊa odræava zadnjeg vikenda u srpnju, a tu je joπ niz zabavnih, kulturnih i sportskih dogaanja tijekom Ëitave ljetne sezone, koja privlaËi tisuÊe turista. Grad je nadaleko poznat i po paπkoj Ëipki, vrsti Ëipke koja se odlikuje osobitom ljepotom uzoraka, kvalitetom i naËinom izrade te viπestoljetnom tradicijom izrade. Prvi zapisi o toj Ëipki, Ëiji su korijeni u Mikeni, datiraju iz 15. stoljeÊa, a vjeπtina izrade prenosi se s koljena na koljeno do danaπnjih dana. Paπka se Ëipka danas smatra jednim od najpoæeljnijih autentiËnih hrvatskih suvenira i prikazivana je na izloæbama diljem svijeta − u Londonu, New Yorku, BeËu, Milanu, Pragu, Parizu te u brojnim drugim gradovima. Vrhunac otoËke gastronomske ponude u svijetu je poznat i cijenjen paπki sir. Proizvodi se od mlijeka autohtonih ovaca koje po πkrtom otoËkom kamenjaru slobodno pasu od bure zasoljeno aromatiËno mediteransko bilje. RijeË je o osobitom tvrdom siru karakteristiËnog okusa, Ëija proizvodnja ima stoljetnu tradiciju. Paπki je sir autentiËni hrvatski proizvod, a potvrde kvalitete stiæu sa svih strana, tako da je sir iz Sirane Gligora u naselju Kolana na 116. meunarodnom natjecanju sireva u Nantwichu u Velikoj Britaniji, odræanom u kolovozu 2013., izmeu 4285 sireva okrunjen zlatnom medaljom kao najbolji ovËji sir na svijetu. Dakako, vrlo je poznata i cijenjena i paπka janjetina koja zbog prehrane ovaca ima specifiËan okus, a otoËki restorani i konobe u ponudi uvijek imaju i specijalitete od riba, kojima je kristalno Ëisto more oko Paga prebogato. UnatoË tomu πto Pag nema osebujnu listu autohtonih vina, ipak vrijedi spomenuti poznatu paπku æuticu što se pravi od nekoliko vrsta vinove loze, od kojih su neke sorte danas gotovo izumrle, a najistaknutija je GegiÊ. Svakako valja spomenuti i paπko bijelo zlato, sol, koja na otoku ima tisuÊljetnu organiziranu proizvodnju. Solana Pag danas se zajedno
sa svojim solinama prostire na povrπini od više nego dva milijuna Ëetvornih metara te je zajedno sa skladiπtima i tvorniËkim pogonom prostorno najveÊi proizvodni pogon u Hrvatskoj. Za ljubitelje ptica nezaobilazna je otoËka znamenitost Velo blato, ornitoloπki rezervat koji je staniπte više nego 160 vrsta ptica moËvarica, od kojih je 66 vrsta gnjezdarica. Velo blato savrπeno je za fotografe koji æele izbliza snimiti razliËite vrste ptica, a postavljena je osmatraËnica na rubu rezervata. ■
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lthough the fifth largest, with as many as 302.47 kilometres of coastline, Pag is the most indented of all the Adriatic islands; its vistas viewed from the mainland are reminiscent of the moon’s surface. The bora wind, which blows down from Velebit throughout the year, especially in winter, has covered practically the entire island of Pag with sheets of salt for centuries. Due to the exposure to the strong winds there is almost no vegetation on the entire side facing the mainland; only a few blades of grass of Mediterranean plants peek out here and there between the rocks and wait for the sheep to graze, and so it is not without reason that Pag is often called the island of stone. However harsh and unwelcoming the mainland facing side may seem, the interior side of the island reveals its treasures. The 270 kilometres of sandy beaches along with crystal clear waters have formed the quite extraordinary coast of Pag, which is ideal for all kinds of summer activities. The fact that the island boasts over 2,500 hours of annual sunshine makes Pag one of the most desirable destinations for summer vacations. The 15th meridian by which Central European Time is calculated cuts the island right across the middle which is why the city of Pag had one of the first sundials in Europe.
Natural predispositions are further enhanced by the excellent traffic connections: the 340-metre-long Pag Bridge on the southern side of the island leads towards Zadar, while the northern side is serviced by the ferry line Prizna − Æigljen. Also, there are fast ship lines which connect the island with the mainland at very affordable prices. The island’s two biggest cities, Pag and Novalja, are situated in the southern and northern parts of the island, respectively. There are wind-sheltered coves and the hills hide many small settlements, picturesque fishing and farming villages that could have easily inspired the motto for the country’s advertising campaign, the Mediterranean as it once was. Habitation on the island of Pag goes back to the Neolithic. The oldest known island name, Kissa, is of pre-Illyrian origin, and in the 10 th century it was mentioned by Constantine Porphyrogenitus. Remains of wall paintings of human figures of an unknown age can be seen in the hamlet Metajna on the hill Zaglava. There are a number of archaeological sites that cover the time span from prehistory, that is, the Bronze and Stone Age, based on the dates on the fortified settlements and burial tombs which are found throughout the entire island, through the Iron Age, when the lyrical tribe Liburna lived here, to Antiquity, the Roman and early Christian period, all the way to the Middle Ages. Traces of Pag’s rich history are also found beneath the sea − in Vlaπka Mala Bay. Along the north-eastern coast of the island, at a depth of about 25 metres, the remains of a Roman merchant ship were found, including well preserved amphora. Today, the site is protected by an iron cage and it is a popular destination for divers. Pag is the only Croatian island that is divided between the administration of two counties,
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Lika-Senj and Zadar. The city of Novalja, which belongs to Lika-Senj County, is definitely the island’s hotspot for tourists. Just 30-40 years ago Novalja was a relatively unassuming fishing village, but today it is a city of about 4 thousand, and during the summer, together with the surrounding villages, that number has been known to climb to 40,000. Along with Novalja, the town today is comprised of 9 villages, and those are Caska, Gajac, KustiÊi, Lun, Metajna, PotoËnica, Stara Novalja, VidaliÊi and ZuboviÊi. The tourist boom in Novalja can fi rst and foremost be attributed to the beautiful sandy beach ZrÊe, located about 2 kilometres from the town centre. Since discos were built on the beach, which are open 24 hours a day in the summer, the beach has become a world party destination of international fame, rightfully known as the Croatian Ibiza. The story about partying on ZrÊe started long ago, already in the early 80s, but the explosion happened when the Novalja cult club Calypso was opened in 1988. The culmination came with the start of the new century when the Zagreb clubs Aquarius and Papaya were built on the beach on the location of the one-time disco club ZrÊe. During the summer, world renown DJs perform on ZrÊe, the beach is filled with thousands of partiers from all of Europe and other continents, and 64
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this destination is the host of the cult Hideout Festival, which the respectable newspaper, The Guardian, placed on the list of the best world festivals in 2011. Besides ZrÊe, Novalja is famous for another thing - just a few kilometres from the city, on top of Velo Tusto »elo, there is a natural phenomenon, an imprint in the rocks known as the Pag Triangle. This is an iron-shaped isosceles triangle in the rocks measuring 32 by 32 by 22 metres, and its occurrence is associated with a UFO sighting on the island in past times. While dance music on ZrÊe attracts the younger tourists in search of non-stop fun, for those who want a more peaceful summer, Novalja also offers a handful of events such as the Novalja Cultural Summer with art exhibitions, concerts of serious music, klapa and ensemble performances, folk groups, book promotions and sales exhibitions, theatre performances, outdoor cinema shows and other similar happenings. The city has a rich folklore tradition, including the traditional Nakanat singing which to this day is cherished and presented to enthusiastic tourists. The city of Pag, which belongs to Zadar County, is the island’s main settlement with 5 thousand residents. It was created in 1443 when the population moved there from Stari Pag. The city abounds in cultural and historical monuments, the most significant ones being the Church of the Assumption of Mary, the Rector’s Palace and Skrivanat Tower. Pag was built according to the urban plan of the famous Croatian architect Jura Dalmatinac whose name is associated with the famous Cathedral of St. James in ©ibenik. In addition to the city of Pag proper, today Pag is made up of 10 settlements: Boπana, Dinjiπka, Gorica, Koπljun, MiπkoviÊi, Smokvica, Stara Vas, ©imuni, VlaπiÊi and VrËiÊi. A special tourist attraction is the summer carnival, which has been held the last weekend in July for already more than half a century, and there is also a range of entertainment, cultural and sporting events throughout the summer season which attract thousands of tourists. The city is widely known for Pag lace, famous for its exceptional beauty, quality, the method of production and the centuries-old tradition of craftsmanship. The first records of the lace, whose roots are in Mycenae, date back to the 15th century, and the skill of making it has been passed from generation to generation to the present day. Pag lace is nowadays considered one of the most authentic Croatian souvenirs and it has been depicted in exhibitions around the world
- London, New York, Vienna, Milan, Prague, Paris and many other cities. The highlight of the island’s cuisine is the world famous and respected Pag cheese, which is produced from the milk of indigenous sheep. The animals graze freely on the barren rocky terrain covered with aromatic Mediterranean herbs which have been salted by the bora winds. It is an extremely hard cheese with a distinctive taste whose production is based on a centuries-old tradition. Pag cheese is an authentic Croatian product and confirmation of its quality comes from all sides. This was seen when, out of 4,285 cheeses, the cheese from Sirena Gligora in the village Kolan was crowned with the gold medal as the best sheep cheese in the world at the 116th International Cheese Competition in Nantwich in the UK held in August 2013. Of course, Pag lamb is also very well known and respected. Its distinct flavour is a result of the animals’ diet. The island’s restaurants and taverns always offer seafood specialties, since the crystal clear waters around Pag are quite abundant with fish. Despite the fact that Pag has no distinctive list of local wines, nevertheless it is worth mentioning the famous Pag Æutica which is made of several types of grape varieties of which some are now almost extinct, the most prominent being GegiÊ. We must also mention Pag’s white gold, the salt whose harvest on the island has been organized for thousands of years. Today, Solana Pag, along with its salt pans, covers an area of over 2 million square meters, and including its warehouses and factory floor it is the largest manufacturing plant in Croatia. For bird lovers, an unavoidable island attraction is Velo Blato, an ornithological reserve which is the habitat for over 160 species of wetland birds, of which 66 are nesting birds. Velo Blato is perfect for photographers who want to capture close-ups of different species of birds from an observation post which has been set up along the edge of the reserve. ■
Winners in both categories! Sandra Perković
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Istria.
Green Mediterranean.
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Istria. Green Mediterranean.
Istria offers much more than sun and wonderful beaches set along 450 km of coastline. This peninsula, with its countless natural and cultural attractions, is a destination to visit all year round. An “active holiday” is the best way to describe a stay amongst the wonders of Istria, as you can practice all kind of sports: sailing, explore the underwater beauty with reefs, caves and shipwrecks, trekking, riding, paragliding, play tennis or golf.... And that‘s not all.... Istria also has an excellent reputation for cyclists, with its quiet roads during Spring and Autumn and amazing views, enchanting bays and scented pine forests. For those who want exclusive relaxation, Istria offers spas and wellness centres that are a pleasant alternative to a classic holiday.
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1. Enjoy a seaside holiday. 2. Family-friendly accommodation both on the coast and inland. 3. Charming small towns. 4. Explore Istria on two wheels.
The region is particular wellknown for exceptional gourmet experience, as for truffles, Istrian malvasia and olive oil, in an area full of wholesome produce and atmospheric medieval villages on the top of green hills. Sea, nature, cultural heritage and typical products - all demonstrate that Istria is the ideal destination for great cuisine, great wine and a great lifestyle. More information: www.istra.com
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■ PRIRODNE LJEPOTE NATURAL BEAUTIES
Pogled na Ravni Dabar s Dabarske kose A view of Ravni Dabar from Dabarska Kosa
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Tunel na cesti iznad Ravnog Dabra Tunnel on the road above Ravni Dabar
Piše/By Ana LemiÊ Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ CROATIA AIRLINES
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NP Paklenica, iza nje u snijegu se vidi Sveto Brdo Paklenica National Park, with a distant view of Sveto Brdo in the snow
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Orlov kuk i/and Borovnik
elebit je golema i neraπËlanjena planina od preteæno vapnenaËkih naslaga mlaeg paleozoika, mezozoika, mlaeg paleogena i kvartara. Promatran unutar europskog prostora, nalazi se izmeu dvaju gorskih lanaca: Alpa u srediπnjoj Europi na sjeverozapadu i visokih planina na Balkanu na jugoistoku. Promatran unutar hrvatskog prostora, njegov masiv spaja Gorski kotar na sjeverozapadu i sjevernu Dalmaciju na jugoistoku. InaËe, Velebit je planina kojom se Hrvati ponose i Ëesto se Ëuje izreka: Ono πto je Olimp Grcima ili Triglav Slovencima, to je Velebit Hrvatima. LiËkom Ëovjeku koji je æivio s njegove kopnene strane i podgorskome s njegove primorske strane, bio je i viπe od toga. Bio mu je i hranitelj i branitelj. Hranio je njega i njegovu stoku, branio od duπmanina. Nekad, u proπlosti, davao mu je ono najnuænije za æivot; LiËanima drvo za ogrjev, grau za kuÊu: brvno, gredu, kuÊni prag, kolijevku u kojoj se odnjihao, postelju za poËinak, sanduk u kojemu je otiπao s ovoga svijeta, Ëak i kriæ na vjeËnome mu poËivaliπtu. SliËno je bilo i s Podgorcima, samo su oni to sve gradili od kamena. Da bismo bolje shvatili vaænost Velebita u hrvatskim i europskim okvirima, doËarat Êe sljedeÊih nekoliko redaka. Naime, u vrijeme globalnog zatopljenja, u vrijeme kad priroda uzvraÊa udarac zbog krπenja njezinih zakona, u vrijeme kad pitka voda, Ëisti zrak i bistro nebo na kojemu se joπ vide zvijezde postaje rijetkost u Europi, Hr vatska se moæe time podiËiti. Njezin poloæaj, razvedenost reljefa i klimatska obiljeæja stvorili su u Hrvatskoj veliku raznolikost ekoloπkih sustava i staniπta, koja se odlikuju visokim stupnjem oËuvanosti i neznatnog utjecaja Ëovjeka na njihov izgled, a tako nije u veÊini europskih zemalja. Geoloπka proπlost Hrvatske, osobito vezana uz posljednja ledena doba, reljef, fenomen krπa i izolirana podruËja pridonijeli su visokom stupnju endemizma. Broj endema vaskularne fl ore triput je veÊi od svjetskog prosjeka i sa svojih 9,8 posto endemiËnih vrsta Hrvatska predstavlja srediπte endemizma ovoga dijela Europe. Najvaænija endemska Ëvoriπta za hrvatsku su floru planine Biokovo i Velebit, zbog toga πto ih tijekom tercijara nije zahvatila oledba. Do danas je na Velebitu zabiljeæeno oko 2500 biljnih vrsta, od kojih su mnoge endemiËne, rijetke, ugroæene ili pak strogo zaπtiÊene. Meu njima najpoznatiji je biljni endem velebitska degenija (Degenia velebitica), Ëiji je lik na kovanici od 50 lipa i na zastavi LiËko-senjske æupanije, a od strogo zaπtiÊenih svakako
Velebit je planina kojom se Hrvati ponose. Ljepotu Velebita, njegovo znaËenje ne samo za hrvatsku, nego i za europsku pa i svjetsku floru, njegovu bioloπku i krajobraznu raznolikost prepoznala je i svjetska organizacija Ujedinjenih naroda uvrstivπi ga rezolucijom Unesca 1978. godine u meunarodni program »ovjek i biosfera (M&B). Croatians feel a great affection for Velebit. The beauty of Velebit and the significance of its biosphere were recognized by the United Nations: UNESCO proclaimed it a biosphere reserve in 1978 under the Man and the Biosphere Programme (M&B). PodruËje Tulovih greda
Zoran PaveliÊ
Tulove Grede area
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©uπanj, pogled prema Pagu ©uπanj, a view in the direction of Pag
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Ulazni dio kanjona Male Paklenice Entrance to the Mala Paklenica Canyon
je najpoznatija hrvatska sibireja (Sibiraea croatica). Meu brojnim leptirima koji krase Velebit, a leptiri su indikator zdravoga okoliπa, osobito se istiËe endemski, rijedak, ugroæen i strogo zaπtiÊen velebitski apolon (Parnassius apollo liburnicus). Osim bioloπke, Velebit je veoma poznat i po k rajobra znoj ra znolikosti. To mu omoguÊava njegova velika duljina od viπe nego 150 km, prosjeËna πirina oko 13,9 km i prosjeËna visina pribliæno 1350 metara, isprijeËivπi se izmeu mora i kopna, tj. na granici dvaju klimatskih podruËja. Sve mu to omoguÊava da u sebi krije guste bjelogoriËne i crnogoriËne πume, Ëak neke i praπumskog tipa, pitome doce, planinske rudine, kamenjarske travnjake, bezbrojne dulibe, strmoglave jame, peÊine i polupeÊine, divlje romantiËne drage urezane duboko u njegovo kameno truplo, zastraπujuÊi krπ Ëiji oblici zapanje i najbujniju maπtu, sipare i toËila, a ono malo stalnih i povremenih vodotoka oko Oπtarija i ©tirovaËe stvorilo je i najrjea i najugroæenija staniπta u svijetu uopÊe − cretove. Sve te ljepote Velebita vrijedne su paænje, divljenja i zaπtite; njegov biljni i æivotinjski svijet, njegov reljef i njegov, u svijetu poznati krπ. Stoga je cijeli Velebit proglaπen parkom prirode u kojemu su dva nacionalna parka: Nacionalni park Sjeverni Velebit (proglaπen 1999.) i Nacionalni park Paklenica (proglaπen 1949.) te strogi rezervat Roæanski i HajduËki kukovi, a i nekoliko botaniËkih rezervata. Iako je Velebit relativno niska planina u usporedbi s Alpama i mnogim balkanskim planinama, ima oko 130 vrhova s visinom iznad 1300 metara. Na sjevernom dijelu Velebita najviπi je vrh Mali Rajinac (1699 m). Atraktivni su vrhovi tog dijela Velebita GromovaËa, Crikvena, Balinovac i drugi. I na srednjem Velebitu neki vrhovi premaπuju 1600 metara. Najviπi je vrh ©atorina (1624 m), a slijede je ZeËjak, MatijeviÊa brijeg, Ograenik i mnogi drugi. Na juænom Velebitu najviπi je Vaganski vrh (1757 m), koji je ujedno i najviπi vrh Velebita, a drugi je do njega Sveto brdo (1751 m), pa dalje redom Malovan, Segestin, ZoraniÊev vrh i drugi. Osobito atraktivan vrh juænog Velebita jest VisoËica, poznata po svojoj snjeænoj balerini. Na ovom dijelu Velebit tvori planinsko bilo, a na ostalima ima πirok hrbat. PoËevπi od Svetog brda, Velebit naglo gubi na visini tako da mu je na jugoistoËnom dijelu najviπi vrh Crnopac s 1402 metra. Velebit je i jedina naπa primorska planina koja razdvaja dva geografski sasvim razliËita predjela, mediteranski i kontinentalno-pla-
ninski. Zbog toga su mu i padine potpuno razliËite. Kontinentalna mu je strana strma i poπumljena tako da na njoj uglavnom nije bilo ni stalnih ni sezonskih naselja, a primorska mu je padina bila prostor stalne i periodiËne naseljenosti. To su omoguÊile pitome uvale uz more i uska rubna zaravan u podnoæju pa do 500 metara visine, po kojoj su bila poredana stalna naselja. Iznad nje slijede strmi odsjeci koji tvore slikovite, Ëesto bizarne oblike kukova, glavica i vrhova. Poviπe njih, a Ëitavom duljinom Velebita, niæu se krπke udoline koje narod
zove dulibe i doci, kojima su dna prekrivena humusnim naplavinama. U veÊini njih bila su sezonska naselja i stoËarski stanovi. Poslije Drugog svjetskog rata uslijedilo je naglo raseljavanje tako da je Velebit danas gotovo pust. I kad je rijeË o klimi, znaËajno se razlikuju kopnena i primorska strana Velebita. Kopnena padina, osim debelim snjeænim pokrivaËem, odlikuje se svjeæom klimom s viπe vlage, a primorska je strana uglavnom suha. Dominantan je klimatski faktor na primorskoj strani bura, jer pod njezinim se
snaænim naletima pojaËava gubitak vlage. U najviπim dijelovima suπnost umanjuje oblaËna barijera na visini 900-800 metara, poznata pod nazivom burna kapa. Iako je Velebit surova i bezvodna planina, poznato je izletniËko i planinarsko odrediπte. Tomu je pridonijelo osnivanje planinarskog druπtva u Zagrebu 1874. pa u GospiÊu 1898. godine. Popularizaciji planinarstva pridonijela je gradnja planinarskih domova, kuÊa i skloniπta i oznaËavanje mnogih planinarskih staza. Meu njima najpoznatija je PremuæiÊeva staza (graena od 1930. do
PodruËje Sjevernog Velebita Northern Velebit area
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1933. godine), zapravo graeni pjeπaËki longitudinalni visinski put kroz sjeverni i srednji Velebit u duljini oko 60 km. ProsjeËna joj je πirina bila 1,2 m i prosjeËni nagib oko 10 posto Po svojoj tradicionalnoj suhozidnoj gradnji, estetskim naËelima i namjeni, jedinstvena je ne samo u Hrvatskoj, nego i πire. Stoga je 2009. godine proglaπena zaπtiÊenim kulturnim dobrom. I, na kraju, nameÊe se zakljuËak da je Velebit naπa najljepπa, najzanimljivija, bioloπki najraznolikija i najopjevanija planina, koja zauzima osobito mjesto u æivotu i svijesti naπega naroda, pa je i veoma nacionalno vrijedna. Na nama je da ga oËuvamo da tako i ostane. ■
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elebit is an imposing and uninterrupted mountain range made up mostly of various limestone layers which were deposited during the younger Palaeozoic, Mesozoic, younger Palaeogene and the Quaternary periods. On a map of Europe, it sits between two mountain ranges: the Central European Alps in the northwest and the high Balkan mountains in the southeast. It stretches from Gorski Kotar in the northwest of Croatia and runs parallel to the northern Dalmatian coast in the southeast. Croatians feel a great affection for Velebit. What Mount Olympus is to the Greeks or Mount Triglav to Slovenians, Velebit is to Croatians. Arguably, it was appreciated even more in the past by those who used to live in Lika on its continental slopes, and PD Zaviæan Zaviæan mountain lodge
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Pokraj PD u Ravnom Dabru Near the mountain lodge in Ravni Dabar
Planinarski putokaz u blizini Ravnog Dabra (Srednji Velebit) Mountain sign post close to Ravni Dabar (Central Velebit)
those who inhabited its littoral side. The mountain fed them and protected them. It was a source of livelihood for both them and their livestock; it defended them against foes. It provided them with the bare necessities. For the people of Lika it was the source of fi rewood and timber. The beams and thresholds in their houses, cradles in which they were rocked, beds where they rested, coffi ns in which they departed from this world, even the crosses on their graves ©terna kod Kugine kuÊe Water cistern near Kugina KuÊa
came from the Velebit woods. It was the same in the littoral region of Podgorje, with the only difference being that all of those same things were made from stone. The following few lines are an attempt to describe the signifi cance of Velebit in European and global terms. We live in the period of global warming and nature is striking back for all the offences humans have committed against it; drinking water, clean air and the clear star-studded sky are all becoming preciously rare in Europe, while Croatia still has all those things. The country’s geographic location, the indentation of its relief and the characteristics of its climate have resulted in an impressive diversity of ecological systems and habitats which are still well preserved and free from human infl uences, so unlike the situation in most other European states. Croatia’s geological past, especially the developments in the last Ice Age, its relief, karst phenomena and isolated areas have all contributed to the high level of endemism. The number of vascular flora species is three times the world average; accounting for the 9.8% of the total number of endemic plants, Croatia is the centre of endemism in this part of Europe. Owing to the fact that they were spared glaciation during the Tertiary period, the Biokovo and Velebit mountain ranges are the most important reserves of Croatian endemic fl ora. Until today, approximately 25,000 plant species have been recorded on Velebit, many of them endemic,
rare, endangered or strictly protected. The best known among them is the Degenia velebitica, depicted on the 50 lipa coin and on the Lika and Senj County fl ag. Among the strictly protected plant species, the best known is the Sibiraea croatica. The rare, endangered and strictly protected Velebit apollo (Parnassius apollo liburnicus) is the true gem among the numerous butterfl ies which adorn Velebit, and it is a well known fact that the presence of butterfl ies testifi es to a healthy environment.
Besides it biodiversity, Velebit is also famous for the diversity of its landscape owing to its length of over 150 km, average width of approximately 13.9 km and average height of nearly 1350 metres. The range represents a barrier between the continental and coastal parts of Croatia, and at the same time it is the meeting place of two climates. Owing to that, it hides thick deciduous and evergreen forests, some of which are primeval, mountain meadows, natural grasslands in the rocks, karst
valleys, vertiginous potholes, caves and semi caves, wild and romantic coves that cut deep into its stone body, eerie karst forms which will amaze even the richest of imaginations, while the few permanent and temporary flows around Oπtarije and ©tirovaËa have created the rarest and most endangered wetland habitats anywhere in the world. All of these beauties of Velebit are worthy of attention, admiration and protection; its fauna, its relief and its karst for which it
Velika Paklenica
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PloËa kod doma u Ravnom Dabru An interpretation board near the mountain lodge in Ravni Dabar
has gained fame all over the world. That is why the entire Velebit range has been proclaimed a nature park and it also includes two national parks: Sjeverni Velebit in the north (since 1999) and Paklenica National Park (since 1949), and the strictly protected reserves Roæanski Kukovi and HajduËki Kukovi, as well as several botanical reserves. Although relatively low in comparison with the Alps and many Balkan mountains, Velebit boasts around 130 peaks higher than 1300 metres. The highest peak in the northern part of Velebit is Mali Rajinac (1699 m). The other attractive peaks in that part of Velebit are GromovaËa, Crikvena, Balinovac and others. In the central part of Velebit, a few peaks surpass 1600 metres. The highest among them is ©atorina (1624 m), followed by ZeËjak, MatijeviÊa Brijeg, Ograenik and many others. The highest peak in the south is Vaganski Vrh (1757 m), which is also the highest Velebit peak; second to it is Sveto Brdo (1751 m), followed by Malovan, Segestin, ZoraniÊev Vrh and Kubus (Baπke Oπtarije)
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others. A particularly attractive peak in the south is VisoËica, famous for its Snowy Ballerina ravine. In this part, Velebit is mostly an arête, whereas elsewhere its ridge is flatter and wider. Starting from Sveto Brdo, Velebit’s height gradually diminishes so that in its south-eastern part the highest peak is Crnopac, at not more than 1402 metres above sea level. Velebit is the only Croatian mountain which separates two entirely different geographic areas: the Mediterranean in the south and the continental part in the north. This is why its slopes are completely different. The continental slopes are steep and covered with woodlands, and so they were never extensively inhabited; the maritime slope, on the other hand, has always been an area of permanent or periodical habitation owing to the maritime bays and the narrow strip of land where permanent settlements were scattered from its foot to an altitude of 500 metres. Above that, along the entire length of Velebit, there are karst valleys whose
Ulaz u Velebitski botaniËki vrt (NP Sjeverni Velebit) Entrance into the Velebit Botanical Garden (Northern Velebit Nature Park)
bottoms are covered with layers of humus. Most of them held seasonal settlements and shepherds’ temporar y residences. Extensive emigration after World War II has left Velebit almost uninhabited. In terms of climate, the mountain’s coastal slope differs greatly from its continental slope. Besides the thick layer of snow covering the latter in wintertime, the northern side is more humid and colder than the coastal side, which is mostly dry. The most dominant climate feature on the littoral is the bora wind. Its gale force blasts increase the loss of humidity. In the highest parts, aridity is diminished by the cloud barrier at the altitude of 900-800 metres, known by the term bora cap. Although arid and merciless, Velebit is a favourite destination with a large number of excursionists and trekkers. Its popularity was greatly helped by the establishment of mountain climbers’ associations, fi rst in Zagreb in 1874 and then in GospiÊ in 1898. Mountain lodges, huts and shelters were built and mountain trails marked for the benefit of the growing number of Velebit lovers. The best known track, running for some 60 kilometres through the very heart of northern and central Velebit, is PremuæiÊeva Staza (built between 1930 and 1933), as a wonderfully engineered longitudinal footpath about 1.2 metres high on average and with an average gradient of 10%. In terms of its traditional drywall construction, aesthetic principles and purpose, it is unique, not only in Croatia but further afi eld. That is why in 2009 it was listed as a cultural monument of outstanding value. And finally, a long list of superlatives for Velebit: it is the most beautiful, most interesting, most diverse and the most sung about mountain which occupies a special place in the life and consciousness of Croatians, making it a mountain of particular value for the nation. It is up to us to preserve it for posterity. ■
STARIGRAD PAKLENICA
NA RASKRIŽJU PRIRODNOG RAJA WHERE MOUNTAIN TOUCHES THE SEA
Starigrad Paklenica zadivljuje jedinstvenim spojem divljine Velebita i mirnoÊe Jadrana Ëiji se najljepπi dio, Nacionalni park Paklenica nalazi upravo ovdje. Specifi Ëne klimatske osobine i jedinstven zemljopisni poloæaj pruæaju idealne uvjete za odmor svima sportskog i pustolovnog duha. Paklenica je obiljeæena oπtrim liticama i monumentalnim kanjonima i dom je starim bukovim πumama, tajanstvenim πpiljama te endemima biljne i æivotinjske vrste. Park predstavlja izazov svakom ljubitelju prirode: izletniku, planinaru, alpinistu, avanturistu. Donosimo pregled aktivnosti koje svakako trebate probati dok ste u Starigradu.
Starigrad Paklenica, a unique place combining the wild Mt. Velebit with the translucent Adriatic blue, is a home to the National Park Paklenica too. Specific climate and the unique geographical position makes the destination perfect for adventure travelers. The national park Paklenica is full of sharp cliffs and monumental canyons and is a home of old beechwood, misterious caves and several remarkable endems of animal and plant species. We are bringing a short overview of the activities one should definitely try once in Starigrad.
Canoe Safari Rafting Free Climbing Etno selo „Vrata Velebita“ Velebit Foto Jeep Safari Winnetou muzej Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera
Canoe Safari Rafting Free Climbing Etno Village „Doors of Mt. Velebit“ Mt. Velebit Foto Jeep Safari Winnetou Museum Plitvice Lakes National Park
Preporuka smjeπtaja Bluesun hotel Alan*** nudi najsveobuhvatniji raspon usluga u Starigrad Paklenici: osim smjeπtaja i buffet restorana nudi i specijelitete autohtonih jela u konobi, sportske sadræaje poput teniskih terena, fitnessa, odbojke na pijesku, ali i Wellness & Spa od 900 m2 koji je nekoliko puta proglaπen autohtonim Ëuvarom tradicije Velebitskog okruæja.
Accommodation tips Bluesun Hotel Alan*** offers the widest array of services in Starigrad Paklenica: besides double room and family room accommodation and buffet restaurant, it provides the authentic culinary experience in its traditinal cellars. Other highlights include sports facilities such as tennis courts, fitness center, beach volleyball courts and 900 square meter Wellness &
Spa, which has earned the national recognition for being an authentic representation of Mt. Velebit’s natural surrounding.
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Intangible Cultural Heritage
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■ ZAGREB
Piše/By Irena IriÊ
Fotografije/Photos Cropix
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cijela zemlja po regijama osobita na svoj naËin, nekako se uvijek pojam hrvatskog turizma vezao uglavnom za Dalmaciju i Istru. Ne treba to Ëuditi. More je neiscrpan turistiËki mamac, pogotovo kada je kao naπe tako Ëisto, a obala razvijena s brojnim bajkovitim otoËiÊima koji pruæaju bezbriæan, antistresan odmor daleko od svih problema i katkad naporne i guævovite svakodnevice. Ipak, Hrvatska je viπe od mora. I moæe pruæiti joπ mnogo toga lijepoga i drugaËijega.
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rvatsku vole turisti. Oduvijek. Ravnice, brda i more koji je krase bez sumnje opravdavaju superlative kojima strani gosti svakodnevno opisuju prirodne ljepote naπe zemlje. Tu su i prekrasni gradovi, bogata povijest i impozantna kulturna baπtina. Mnogi kaæu da smo veoma simpatiËan narod, otvoren i prijateljski raspoloæen prema posjetiteljima. Valja napomenuti da se na sva usta hvali i naπa, svijetu veÊ poznata tradicionalna kuhinja. No iako je
Glavni grad oËito je turistima postao neizbjeæno odrediπte za posjeta Hrvatskoj, pa tako Zagreb u posljednje vrijeme biljeæi nevjerojatan porast novih sadræaja. IstiËe se trend otvaranja hostela i privatnih smjeπtaja, koji gostima dizajnom, ponudom i kvalitetom nude nezaboravno iskustvo boravka u srcu Hrvatske. The capital city has obviously become an unavoidable destination for tourists visiting Croatia, so that Zagreb has recently recorded an amazing growth in the number of new contents. We can point out the trend of opening hostels and private accommodations that quality offer the guests an unforgettable experience of staying in the heart of Croatia.
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with their design, services and
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Najbolji dokaz toj tvrdnji sluæbeni su podaci iz srpnja prema kojima je u razdoblju od sijeËnja do srpnja 2013. godine u gradu Zagrebu ostvareno 14,6 posto viπe dolazaka nego u istom razdoblju proπle godine, πto je ukupno 433.890 dolazaka i 12,3 posto viπe noÊenja, a to je pak ukupno 766.436 noÊenja. Glavni grad o Ë ito je turistima postao neizbjeæno odrediπte za posjeta Hrvatskoj, a æelju stranih gostiju da se zadræe u Zagrebu viπe dana te paæljivo i detaljno razgledaju πto ima ponuditi prepoznali su i domaÊi ugostitelji, pa tako metropola u posljednje vrijeme biljeæi nevjerojatan porast novih sadræaja. IstiËe se trend otvaranja hostela i privatnih 82
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smjeπtaja, koji su osmiπljeni, ureeni i opremljeni po najmodernijim standardima i koji gostima dizajnom, ponudom i kvalitetom nude nezaboravno iskustvo boravka u srcu Hrvatske. U brojkama to je ovako. Prema posljednjim podacima kojima Hrvatski ferijalni i hostelski savez raspolaæe, u Zagrebu ima 27 hostela s ukupnim kapacitetom neπto veÊim od 1500 postelja. − Hostel je najprivlaËniji smjeπtajni oblik za mlade i one koji se tako osjeÊaju, odnosno putnike koji preferiraju hostele zbog toga πto su prije svega mjesto druπtvenog uËenja i susreta mladih putnika. Stoga kada govorimo o kvaliteti hostela, nipoπto nije dovoljno procjenjivati iskljuËivo hardverski standard, nego je vrlo vaæna razina pruæanja usluge mladim gostima, komunikacije s gostima, stvaranje atmosfere sigurnoga i ugodnog boravka te mjesta za dobivanje i razmjenu informacija i iskustava. Hosteli imaju zahtjevan zadatak spojiti prijateljsko i neformalno ozraËje s visokom razinom profesionalnosti u svim radnim procesima. Mlade putnike viπe Êe zadovoljiti ugodna atmosfera, sigurnost boravka u hostelu, ljubazno ali i efikasno osoblje i prije svega ugodan krevet i ËistoÊa prostorija, nego luksuz, jer njega i ne oËekuju u hostelu − objasnio je Draæen GeËeviÊ iz Hrvatskoga ferijalnoga i hostelskog saveza. Zato, zaboravite na hostele od kojih su neki joπ donedavno, na æalost, bili simbol prljavih rupa, sumnjive ËistoÊe i namrgoenih zaposlenika, koje su sluæile samo da se prenoÊi. Hosteli koje vam u ovom broju predstavljamo novo su lice Zagreba koje pozdravljamo, koje πiri pozitivu, koje je dobra turistiËka smjernica za buduÊnost i kojim se uvelike ponosimo. Dragi gosti, dobro doπli u Zagreb, grad dizajn-hostela.
ALWAYS A GREAT STAY Everything you need, plus the style and extras you love. Get what you’re looking for with the style and service you want, all at the great price. We have what matters most to you like a comfortable bed, free Internet and much more. Wheather you’re in town for work or just for fun, you’re in for a great stay with us.
Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Zagreb Hotel BOOK NOW ON FOURPOINTSRES.ZAGREB@FOURPOINTS.COM, HOTEL-FOURPOINTSPANORAMA.COM OR FOURPOINTS.COM/ZAGREB OR CALL +385 1 3658 333
GREAT HOTELS. GREAT RATES.
©2013 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All rights reserved. Aloft, Element, Four Points, Le Méridien, Sheraton, St. Regis, The Luxury Collection, W, Westin and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. For full terms and conditions, visit fourpoints.com/emeryville. Any additional terms and conditions should be placed here.
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adutima prvoga zagrebaËkog bed&breakfast Studija Kairos, koji smo u srpnju 2012. otvorili u Vlaπkoj ulici u srediπtu Zagreba. VeÊ nakon prvih πest mjeseci rada ovaj je originalni turistiËki kapacitet, u kojem svaka soba ima svoju priËu, uspio dosegnuti popunjenost od 70 posto, a u protekla tri mjeseca iznosila je Ëak 90 posto! Velikom zanimanju pridonijele su odliËne ocjene gostiju, koje ga na najveÊim turistiËkim portalima poput Trip Advisora i Booking.coma svrstavaju u sam vrh ponude. Studio Kairos je uvrπten i u ovogodiπnja izdanja svjetskih turistiËkih vodiËa Lonely Planeta i Rough Guidea, a o njemu su pisali cijenjeni strani mediji poput Timesa, Guardiana i Independenta − ponosno govori vlasnica Danijela »avloviÊ.
Napominje da Êe Studio Kairos 2 imati istu razinu usluge i ponudu kao i prvi zagrebaËki bed&breakfast. Stoga, vratimo se malo prvoj lokaciji koja je tako oduπevila goste. Studio Kairos u Vlaπkoj smjeπten je u obnovljenom obiteljskom stanu. Svaka soba razlikuje se dizajnom koji opisuje æivot Zagreba u odreeno vrijeme, njegove stanovnike i svakodnevicu. − Dovoljno je da gost prespava u ovom nesvakidaπnjem ambijentu i saznat Êe tko su bila najveÊa zagrebaËka pera (Soba pisaca ili Writers Room), Ëime se ljudi u ovom gradu bave dulje od pola stoljeÊa, iako, na æalost, posljednjih godina sve manje (Zanatska soba ili Crafts’ room), zbog Ëega se isplati pronjuπkati trbuhom grada kroz njegove
SHAPPY HOSTEL
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STUDIO KAIROS bed&breakfast Adresa: Vlaπka 92 Kapacitet: 4 sobe Cijena: single - 420 kn, double 615 kn, triple 712 kn Da odmah objasnimo u poËetku. Ovo nije klasiËan hostel. To je zapravo prvi zagrebaËki bed&breakfast studio Kairos, koji je svojim jedinstvenim konceptom znatno obogatio turistiËku ponudu Zagreba. Konkretnije, toliko se svidio gostima da je vlasnica Danijela »avloviÊ razvila franπizu i u PalmotiÊevoj 13 u rujnu otvorila joπ jedan bed&breakfast studio logiËnog naziva Studio Kairos 2. − Hotelska usluga, hostelska cijena i obiteljska atmosfera pokazali su se glavnim
trænice i domaÊu kuhinju (Bakina soba ili Granny’s Room) te gdje je najbolji noÊni æivot i svirka uæivo (MuziËka soba ili Music Room) − napominje Danijela »avloviÊ. Uz udobne sobe, gostima je na raspolaganju zajedniËka prostorija u kojoj se mogu odmarati uz prelistavanje zanimljivih knjiga iz knjižnice, gledanje TV-a, pretraæivanje interneta ili pak jednostavno samo uæivati.
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SHAPPY HOSTEL Adresa: Varπavska 8, Zagreb Kapacitet: 43 leæaja, 13 soba, 10 privatnih dvokrevetnih soba+3 viπekrevetne sobe Cijena: Od 128 do 700 kn (ovisno o broju osoba) Nekad veoma popularno okupljaliπte mladih generacija i vjerojatno prvi fast food u gradu, kultni Ham-Ham bar u Varπavskoj ulici nije mogao dobiti ljepπe novo ruho. PriËa o ovom hostelu zapravo je priËa o veoma poduzetnoj 84
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noÊenja, ponudila praktiËna usluga viπe. Interijer i terasu hostela projektirale su arhitektice Tea Lisak i Barbara ©eËkoviÊ. Hostel je suk ladno tre ndovima dobio nove kapacitete za ljeto 2013. pa sada, prvi u gradu, nudi de luxe hostelske sobe opremljene standardom hotela s mnogo viπom cijenom. Ova oaza za smjeπtaj gostiju u srediπtu grada zacijelo Êe i u bliskoj buduÊnosti iznenaditi nekim novitetima. Veselimo se tome!
SHAPPY HOSTEL
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a najzapaæeniji detalji su luster iz kojega vise brπljani i tepisi koji izgledaju kao trava. Cool Room namijenjena je gostima koji ne æele odrasti i osjeÊaju se djetinjasto, Happy Room svojim πarenim ureenjem πiri pozitivu, a Romantic Room, koja ima privatnu kupaonicu, poziva parove da njeguju ili oæive svoju ljubav. Svaka soba ima rutu s najvaænijim mjestima u Zagrebu, neπto poput πalabahtera s kljuËnim toËkama u gradu. Tako se gostima, osim
obitelji. Snjeæana ©epetavc 1988. godine osnovala je Ham-Ham obrt, sedamnaest godina poslije njezin sin Tomislav otvorio je Ham-Ham bar, a onda je i mlai sin Marko ljeti 2012. odluËio osmisliti neπto svoje pa je naumio dugogodiπnju hamburger rezidenciju pretvoriti u neπto sasvim drugaËije, sudeÊi po prvim reakcijama javnosti, jednako unosno i popularno. − Ideja o otvorenju hostela pala mi je na um kad sam prvi put odsjeo u hostelu. Ludo sam se zabavio i upoznao super ljude. Nakon tog iskustva, odmah sam znao da mi je sueno otvoriti hostel u srediπtu Zagreba. Proces prikupljanja papira, doduπe, dugo je trajao jer u vrijeme kada sam poËeo s projektom, u gradu su postojala samo dva prava hostela − kaæe Marko ©epetavc. U cijelu priËu uπao je i bliski prijatelj Niko Skrivaneli, kojeg je Marko angaæirao kako bi zajedno s njim osmislio turistiËku stranu priËe hostela. LogiËan je to slijed jer obitelj Skrivaneli godinama se bavi turizmom na podruËju cijele Hrvatske. U prostoru iznad nekadaπnjeg Ham-Hama napravljene su sobe, a prizemlje, koje je nekada bilo Ham-Ham bar, pretvoreno u kafiÊ, danas glavni prostor za druæenje korisnika. Glavni adut hostela, slaæu se gosti, imp r e s i v n a j e te r a s a p r e p u n a ze l e n i l a , opremljena namjeπtajem koji je odabrao poznati kolekcionar Igor Recek iz StubiËkih Toplica. Interijer hostela, pak, opremljen je proizvodima s potpisom Made in Croatia te detaljima iz IKEA-e. Osim terase, Shappy hostel je prepoznatljiv i po tome πto svaka soba, kojih je pet, priËa priËu za sebe. Tako primjerice Green Room slavi prirodu svakim svojim centimetrom, CROATIA AIRLINES
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SWANKY MINT HOSTEL Adresa: Ilica 50, Zagreb Kapacitet: 50 leæaja Cijena: od 130kn/noÊenje Ureenje u industrijskom stilu te recycle&reuse ideje glavni su adut Swanky Mint hostela koji se nedavno otvorio na mjestu nekadaπnjeg starog pogona Parne bojadisaone i kemijske Ëistione odjela Vilim Ondruπek u Ilici. Investitor hostela Andrija Pirnat nevjerojatnu transformaciju povjerio je arhitekticama Ani Bilan i Ireni VojnoviÊ, Ëija je vizija bila napraviti hostel koji Êe podsjeÊati na stari, obrtniËki Zagreb. Hostel je dvoetaæan, a ima oblik slova U. Sadræava tri studija, pet privatnih soba s vlastitim kupaonicama te pet grupnih soba sa zajedniËkim kupaonicama. Tu su joπ i bar s atrijem i vrtnom terasom, recepcija i zajedniËka kuhinja s mini dnevnim boravkom. Cijeli interijer je originalan s namjerno ostavljenim vidljivim instalacijama te kombinacijom novog namjeπtaja i starinskih detalja poput visilica od frizerskih haubi, kupaonskih ormariÊa napravljenih od starih kovËega ili pak starog stroja za plisiranje, koji ima funkciju recepcije. Za genijalnu preobrazbu nekih detalja bile su zaduæene i kreativke iz brenda Kuchanice i restaurator Igor ReËek. U ovom jedinstvenom prostoru nalazi se namjeπtaj napravljen od OSB ploËa, Ëelika, PVC-a, paleta i starih recikliranih elemenata koji su se zatekli za vrijeme projekta.
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− Svaka soba klimatizirana je i ima wi-fi, elektroniËke brave, vlastiti ormariÊ s kljuËem, toplu vodu i Ëistu posteljinu te ruËnike. Kuhinja i bar nude satelitsku televiziju, moæete besplatno surfati na raËunalima koja su vam na raspolaganju ili preko beæiËnog interneta. Takoer moæete oprati ili osuπiti svoju garderobu i parkirati automobil na naπem privatnom parkingu. Nadzorne sigurnosne kamere nadgledaju sve zajedniËke prostore − objaπnjava vlasnik. ■
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ourists love Croatia. They always have. The plains, mountains and the sea which adorn it undoubtedly justify the superlatives which foreign guests use on a daily basis to describe the natural beauty of our country. There are also beautiful cities, a rich history and an impressive cultural heritage. Many also say that we are very kind people, open and friendly toward visitors. It should be mentioned that everyone praises our already world famous traditional cuisine. However, even though all the regions
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CHILL OUT HOSTEL Adresa: TomiÊeva 5a Kapacitet: 162 kreveta Cijena: od 89 do 250 kn (ovisno o broju osoba i vrsti sobe) Novootvoren, smjeπten u srediπtu Zagreba i udaljen samo minutu πetnje po glavnoj gradskoj ulici Ilici od glavnog trga (Trg bana Josipa JelaËiÊa), hostel Chill Out pravo je osvjeæenje turistiËke ponude glavnoga grada Hrvatske. − Nudimo lijep i udoban boravak u srediπtu Zagreba u najveÊem, urbanom i moderno dizajniranom hostelu otvorenom 0-24, gdje se moæete opustiti, spavati i odmarati na Ëistoj posteljini, istuπirati se, jesti tradicionalna jela u naπem restoranu, surfati, uæivati u πalici kave. Tu moæete upoznati ekipu iz cijeloga svijeta i u isto vrijeme uæivati u prihvatljivim cijenama koje πtede novac za zabavu − kaæe vlasnik Goran OsredeËki. U hostelu Chill Out na raspolaganju su 162 kreveta. Ponuda ukljuËuje od privatnih sobe s vlastitom kupaonicom sve do onih sa 2, 4, 6 i 8 kreveta, koje dijele kupaonicu. Dakle, hostel je idealan za pojedinaËni i grupni smjeπtaj.
of mixing a friendly and informal atmosphere with a high level of professionalism in all of their operations. Young travellers will be more satisfied with the relaxed atmosphere, the safety of staying in a hostel, the friendliness but also the efficiency of the staff, and above all, a comfortable bed and clean room rather than luxury because they do not expect it at a hostel, explained Drazen GeËeviÊ of the Croatian Youth Hostel Association. Therefore, forget about the hostels which unfortunately even recently were still a symbol of dirty holes, questionable quality and sullen staff, which served only to spend the night. The hostels that we present to you in this issue are the new face of Zagreb which we welcome, which spread positivity, which
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Zagreb has 27 hostels with a total capacity of just over 1500 beds. − A hostel is the most attractive form of accommodation for young people and those who feel that way, that is, travellers who prefer hostels do so because they are first and foremost a place to learn about society and a meeting place for young travellers. Therefore, when we talk about the quality of the hostel, it is by no means enough to evaluate only the hardware standard, but rather it is very important to evaluate the level of services provided to the young guests, communication with the guests, creating an atmosphere of safety and a pleasant stay, as well as being places to obtain and exchange information and experiences. Hostels have the challenging task
SWANKY MINT HOSTEL
throughout the entire country are special in their own way, the notion of Croatian tourism has always been tied mainly to Dalmatia and Istria. There is no need to be surprised. The sea is an inexhaustible tourist magnet, especially when it is as clean as ours, and the coast is made up of a number of amazing islands that provide a carefree, anti-stress vacation far away from all troubles and sometimes the exhausting and overcrowded everyday life. However, Croatia is more than just the sea. It can offer so much more beauty and diversity. The best proof of this claim is the official data for the month of July, according to which, in the period from January to July 2013, in the city of Zagreb 14.6 percent more arrivals were realized than in the same period last year, a total of 433,890 arrivals and 12.3 percent more overnights, which is a total of 766,436 overnight stays. The capital city has obviously become an unavoidable destination for tourists visiting Croatia, and the desire of foreign guests to stay in Zagreb for several days to carefully and thoroughly explore what the city has to offer has been recognized by local caterers, and so the metropolis has recently recorded an amazing growth in the number of new contents. We can point out the trend of opening hostels and private accommodations that are designed, furnished and equipped based on the most modern standards and with their design, services and quality offer the guests an unforgettable experience of staying in the heart of Croatia. The figures look something like this. According to the most recent data, which is available from the Croatian Youth Hostel Association,
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STUDIO KAIROS Bed & Breakfast Address: Vlaπka 92 Capacity: 4 rooms Price: single - 420 kn, double 615 kn, triple 712 kn Let us immediately explain something at the beginning. This is not a classic hostel. This is actually the first bed & breakfast in Zagreb. Studio Kairos has significantly enriched the Zagreb tourist offer with its unique concept. More concretely, the guests have been so happy with this hostel that the owner, Danijela »avloviÊ, has expanded the franchise and in September she will open another bed & breakfast at PalmotiÊeva 13, logically called Studio Kairos 2. − Hostel services, hostel prices and a family atmosphere have proven to be the best advantages of the first Zagreb bed & breakfast Studio Kairos, which we opened in July 2012 in Vlaπka Street in the centre of Zagreb. Already after the first six months of operation, this original tourist capacity, in which each room has its own story, has managed to reach an occupancy rate of 70 percent, and in the past three months it amounted to as much as 90 percent! The great interest was contributed to by the excellent customer reviews that we received on the major travel portals such as TripAdvisor and Booking. com, which ranked us among the top offers. Studio Kairos has been included in this year’s editions of the world travel guides Lonely Planet and Rough Guide, and it has been written about by respected international media such as the Times, the Guardian and the Independent, proudly says owner Danijela »avloviÊ. She mentions that Studio Kairos 2 will have the same level of services and offer as the first Zagreb bed & breakfast. So, let us go back a bit to the first location that has so delighted its guests. Studio Kairos in Vlaπka is located in a renovated family apartment. Every room has a different design which describes life in Zagreb during a specific time, its people and everyday life. − It is enough for the guests to spend the night in this exceptional environment and they will discover who were the greatest authors in Zagreb (Writers’ Room), what people in this city engaged in for more than half a century, but unfortunately, less and less so in recent years (Crafts’ Room), why it pays to search the belly of the city through its markets and local cuisine (Granny’s Room),
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is a good tourist guideline for the future and for which we are very proud. Dear guests, welcome to Zagreb, the city of design hostels.
and where to find the best nightlife and live music (Music Room), lists Danijela »avloviÊ. Along with comfortable rooms, guests have access to a common area in which they can rest while flipping through interesting books from the library, watch TV, surf the Internet or simply just enjoy. SHAPPY HOSTEL Address: Varπavska 8, Zagreb Capacity: 43 beds, 13 rooms, 10 private double rooms, +3 multiple-bed rooms Price: From 128 to 700 kn (depending on the number of people) The one-time very popular gathering place for the young generation and probably the first fast food place in the city, the cult HamHam bar in Varπavska Street could not have gotten a nicer new look. The story about this hostel is really a story about a very entrepre-
neurial family. In 1988, Snjeæana ©epetavc established the Ham-Ham proprietorship, seventeen years later her son opened the Ham-Ham bar, and then, in the summer of 2012, her younger son Marko decided to create something of his own, and so he took over the longstanding hamburger locale and turned it into something completely different, and judging by the initial reactions from the public, it is just as lucrative and popular. − The idea to open a hostel came to me the first time I ever stayed in a hostel. I had had a great time and met some incredible people. After that experience, I immediately knew that it was my destiny to open a hostel in the centre of Zagreb. The process of collecting the paperwork lasted much longer than I expected, and at the time when I started the project there were only two real hostels in the city, says Marko ©epetavc. His close friend,
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Niko Skrivaneli, joined him in this endeavour. Marko hired him so that together they could create the tourism aspect of the hostel. This was a logical move because the Skrivaneli family has been involved in tourism throughout all of Croatia for many years. They built rooms in the space above the one-time Ham-Ham, while the one-time HamHam bar was turned into a cafe, which today is the main area for the guests to socialize. Based on guests’ reviews, the main advantage of the hostel is definitely the impressive terrace full of greenery and equipped with furniture chosen by the famous collector Igor ReËek from StubiËke Toplice. The interior of the hostel is, however, decorated with products that are Made in Croatia with details from IKEA. In addition to the terrace, the Shappy Hostel is recognizable by the fact that each room, of which there are five, tells a story of its own. For example, the Green Room celebrates nature with every centimetre, and the most notable details are the chandeliers from which hang ivy and carpets that look like grass. On the other hand, the Cool Room is designed for guests who do not want to grow up and who want to feel childish, the Happy Room encourages positivity with its colourful décor, and the Romantic Room, which has a private bathroom, invites couples to nurture or revitalize their love. Each room has a route with the most important places in Zagreb, something like a cheat sheet with the key points in the city. In this way guests are offered practical services in addition to their overnight accommodation. The interior and the terrace of the hostel were designed by architects Tea Lisak and Barbara ©eËkoviÊ.
The hostel has kept up with the trends and has new capacities for the summer of 2013, so that now, for the first time in the city, the hostel offers deluxe hostel rooms that are equipped the same as a standard hotel room with much higher prices. This oasis for guest accommodation in the city centre will certainly surprise you with some novelties in the near future. We are looking forward to it! SWANKY MINT HOSTEL Address: Ilica 50, Zagreb Capacity: 50 beds Price: from 130kn/per night The industrial-style décor and the recycle & reuse ideas are the main advantages of the Swanky Mint Hostel which has recently opened its doors on the former site of the old plant of the steam dyeing and dry cleaning
departments of Vilim Ondruπek in Ilica. The investor in the hostel, Andrew Pirnat, entrusted the remarkable transformation to architects Ana Bilan and Irena VojnoviÊ, whose vision was to make a hostel that would remind you of the old crafts of Zagreb. The hostel has two floors and is in the shape of the letter U. It consists of three studio apartments, five private rooms with their own bathrooms and five dorm rooms with common bathrooms. There is also a bar with an atrium and a garden terrace, the reception area and a common kitchen with a mini living room. The entire interior is original with deliberately left visible installations as well as a combination of new furniture and vintage details such as hanging lamps made from hood dryers, bathroom cabinets made of old suitcases or even an old machine for pleating which serves as the reception desk. The restorer Igor ReËek and the creative people at Kuchanice were responsible for the brilliant transformation of some of the details. In this unique area you can find furniture made of OSB panels (boards made of pressed and glued layers of long and thin wood strands − makore plywood), steel, PVC, pallets and old recycled elements which were found on the spot during the project. CHILL OUT HOSTEL Address: TomiÊeva 5a Capacity: 162 beds Price: from 89 to 250 kn (depending on the number of people and type of room) Newly opened, situated in the heart of Zagreb and just a 1 minute walk along the city’s main street Ilica from the main square (Ban JelaËiÊ Square), the hostel Chill Out is a true CROATIA AIRLINES
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refreshment of the tourist offer of the Croatian capital city. − We offer a nice and comfortable stay in the centre of the city in the largest, urban and modernly designed hostel which is open 0-24, where you can unwind, sleep and relax on clean sheets, take a shower, eat a traditional meal in our restaurant, surf the Internet and enjoy a cup of coffee. Here you can meet people from all over the world and at the same time enjoy the affordable prices so you can save your money for fun, says the owner Goran OsredeËki. The hostel Chill Out has 162 beds available. The offer ranges from private rooms with their own bathrooms to rooms with 2, 4, 6, and 8 beds which have shared bathrooms. Therefore, the hostel alone is ideal for individual and group accommodation. − Every room is air-conditioned and has WI-FI, electronic keys, their own lockers with keys, hot water and clean sheets and towels. The kitchen and bar area offer satellite television and you can surf on computers which are at your disposal or via wireless internet. Also, you can wash and dry your clothes and park your car in our private parking lot. Surveillance security cameras monitor all the common areas, explains the owner. ■
Letite u Zagreb? Od sada svi putnici Croatia Airlinesa mogu uæivati u 150 minuta besplatne voænje nextbike biciklima dnevno! Flying to Zagreb? The most exciting and pocket friendly way to explore the city is by bike! From now on all Croatia Airlines passengers enjoy 150 minutes free bike ride per day!
1.Registrirajte se na www.nextbike.hr preko nextbike mobilne aplikacije ili na stanici s biciklima 2.Aktivirajte svoj nextbike raËun preko kreditne ili debitne kartice za samo 79kn (to je vaπ kredit za najam bicikala); u Vip centru Zagreb, Gajeva 2b, moguÊa je aktivacija raËuna SMS-om! 3.Poπaljite nam svoje ime, prezime, adresu, broj zrakoplovne karte i datum posljednjeg leta na info@nextbike.hr i u roku 24 sata vaπa Fly & Bike tarifa bit Êe aktivirana 4.Unajmite bicikl, sjednite i vozite! Sustav javnih gradskih bicikala nextbike izvrsna je nadopuna javnoga gradskog prijevoza. Ovaj ekoloπki odræiv sustav mobilnosti 90
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pomaæe u smanjenju prometnih guævi, oko parkiranja, πtiti okoliπ, obogaÊuje turistiËku ponudu i utjeËe na poboljπanje kvalitete æivota. Nextbike biciklima moæete se koristiti u viπe od 80 gradova u svijetu! 1.Register at www.nextbike.hr, via nextbike mobile app or directly at bike station terminal 2. Activate your user account via credit or debit card for only 79 HRK (this is your credit for bike rentals); at Vip centar Zagreb, Gajeva 2b, activate SMS payment method - simply purchase a temporary prepaid mobile voucher and activate your nextbike account! 3.Send us your first and last name, address, number of your plane ticket and the date of your last flight to info@nextbike.hr and your Fly & Bike tariff will be active within 24 hours 4. Rent a bike, sit and ride!
Nextbike bike sharing system is a perfect addition to the existing public transport network. This ecologically sustainable mobility system helps in reducing traffic jams, parking problems and protects the environment, enriches tourist offer and it has a positive impact on the quality of life in urban areas in general. Once registered, you can use nextbike bikes in more than 80 cities worldwide!
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NAŠA ODREDIŠTA OUR DESTINATIONS ■
Piše/By Anika Rešetar
Fotografije/Photos Damir Fabijanić
Stanovnici su BeËa ljubazni, pa ne Ëudi πto je BeË veÊ Ëetvrti put zaredom izabran za grad s najveÊom æivotnom kvalitetom (Mercer). Suradnja i dogovor modus operandi su BeËana i njihove gradske uprave. Vrsnost i usluænost, spremnost na komunikaciju i dijalog osnova su i kontinuiranoga gospodarskog uspjeha. The Viennese citizens are polite and well mannered; therefore it is not surprising that, for the fourth consecutive year, Vienna has been proclaimed the city offering the highest quality of life (Mercer). Cooperation and agreement are the modus operandi, followed by Vienna’s citizens and their city’s administrations. Excellence and courteousness, the willingness to communicate and maintain a dialogue are the foundation of the continuous economic success.
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riza veÊ godinama potresa svijet, no u BeËu i Austriji ona se ne osjeÊa. A da osjeÊaj ne vara, dokazuju i ekonomski pokazatelji koji govore o blagom ekonomskom rastu i najniæoj stopi nezaposlenosti u Europi. Kako je to moguÊe i u Ëemu je tajna, pitanje je koje smo postavili veleposlanici Republike Austrije u Hrvatskoj, gospoi Andrei IkiÊ Böhm. A ona odgovara: − Tajna je u konsenzusu. Svi nastoje oko dogovora. Zato u Austriji nema πtrajkova. Mi u Austriji doista æivimo socijalno partnerstvo. Solidna gospodarska situacija rezultat je takve kooperacije. U odgovoru veleposlanice vjerojatno se krije i Ëarobna formula za stanje duha u BeËu, koje se veÊ stoljeÊima opisuje rijeËju Gemütlichkeit, a najbolje ju je opisno prevesti kao kad je duπi ugodno. Vjerojatno zato πto se moæe opustiti kad zna da postoje jasna pravila, propisane procedure odluËivanja i trajno nastojanje svih sudionika u procesu da, bez obzira na osjeÊaje, postignu dogovor koji je dobar za sve. Pa veÊ se i za Habsburgovce govorilo da Europu ne osvajaju ratovima nego dogovorenim brakovima! Stanovniπtvo BeËa godiπnje se u prosjeku poveÊava za oko 15.000 stanovnika. U godini 2012. broj stanovnika poveÊao se Ëak za
25.000, pa BeË sad ima 1,740.000 graana, koji æive u njemu. Za BeË neki kaæu da je velegrad u kojemu vlada ladanjska atmosfera, da je grad bez stresa. PjeπaËka kultura vrlo je vaæna, πetnje su dio nuænih vjeæbi za duπevnu blagodat. Dijalog, komunikacija, integracija rijeËi su koje se stalno ponavljaju i na sluæbenim stranicama grada (www.wien.at). Uklanjanje fiziËkih i mentalnih barijera cilj je gradske uprave. Tako, na primjer, na sluæbenim stranicama grada cijeli je niz tekstova s oznakom LL, laki za Ëitanje, kako bi i manje obrazovani graani s lakoÊom shvatili odluke koje se donose. A osobit uspjeh zabiljeæen je s Wiener Charte, dokumentom prihvaÊenim proπle godine, koji poziva na suæivot starih i mladih, domaÊih i doseljenika, a govori o meusobnom ophoenju graana i njihovu suæivotu u javnim prostorima na ulicama, trgovima i u prometu. Æivot s drugaËijim mentalitetima kuπnja je za domaÊe stanovnike, ali i mnoge doseljenike koji su u BeË doπli radi posla, obitelji ili u potrazi za azilom. Stranaca koji æive u BeËu 25,5 je posto i ne Ëudi πto se sluæbene stranice grada mogu Ëitati i na engleskome, bosanskome, hrvatskome, srpskome i turskom jeziku. Zbog iskustva suæivota s razliËitim narodima u k.u.k. monarhiji, BeË s veÊom lakoÊom nastoji oko integracije kao procesa koji je zahtjevan i za
domaÊe stanovniπtvo i za strance, iziskuje trud s obje strane, a provodi se po motu Integracija i diverzitet. Svake godine grad posjeti i mnogo turista, a veÊina gradskih prihoda (83,1posto) ostvaruje se u tercijarnom sektoru, tj.uslugama i komunikaciji. Vrsnost i usluænost, spremnost na komunikaciju i dijalog osnova su i kontinuiranoga gospodarskog uspjeha koji se moæda najbolje moæe doËarati na primjeru svjetski poznate slastiËarnice Demel, osnovane 1786., uz Ëiji je naziv uvijek i oznaka kvalitete carskih dobavljaËa − K.u.K. Hofzuckerbäcker Wien. SlastiËarnica se nalazi u blizini carskih odaja − Hofburga, a iz nje su vrlo Ëesto naruËivali car Franjo Josip i carica Elisabeth, zvana Sissi. Osim najfinijih slastica uz Demel se veæe i kultura ureπavanja izloga smjelim slastiËarskim kreacijama. Tradiciju je poËeo barun Federico Berzeviczy-Pallavicini, koji se 1936. godine oæenio Klarom Demel. Tradicija ureπavanja u stilu baroka i rokokoa odræava se i danas, a zapaæa se i kod Demelica, koje posluæuju odjevene u crno s bijelom pregaËom (uniforma podsjeÊa na to da su nekoÊ u Demelu radile bivπe samostanske uËenice). One pri usluzi rabe arhaiËno treÊe lice i uvijek pitaju: Jesu li izvoljeli izabrati? Nakon gotovo dva stoljeÊa uspjeπne obiteljske priËe, obitelj zapada u financijske teπkoÊe te prodaje CROATIA AIRLINES
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tvrtku jednomu od najskandaloznijih poslovnih ljudi Austrije Udi Prokschu, koji, optuæen za umorstvo, bjeæi, mijenja identitet operacijom lica, biva napokom uhiÊen, osuen i umire u zatvoru. Tada Demel preuzima Raiffeisen banka kao glavni vjerovnik, a 2002. godine carsku slastiËarnicu preuzima tvrtka Do&Co, Attile Dogudana, turskog imigranta koji je uz pomoÊ Nikija Laude postao najveÊi caterer na svijetu i hranom opskrbljuje 60 zrakoplovnih kompanija te 17 od 20 svjetski poznatih utrka Formule 1. Njegova tvrtka zapoπljava u 25 gradova (npr. New Yorku, Londonu i Istanbulu) oko 7000 radnika. Od 2004. godine Do&Co odgovorni su i za hranu tijekom europskih prvenstava u nogometu. Roen 1959. u Istanbulu, Dogudan kao desetogodiπnjak dolazi s roditeljima u BeË, a 1959.godine osniva svoju tvrtku Do&Co. Prijateljstvo s Nikijem Laudom omoguÊuje mu mnoge poslovne kontakte, a njegovo preuzimanje Demela odlikuje se briænim kultiviranjem tradicije i oprezne inovacije, pa su takoer znakovit primjer joπ jednoga vrlo uspjelog dijaloga. Dogudanov je daljnji velik uspjeh πto je njegova tvrtka uspjela u poznatom Haashausu, suvremenoj graevini u najuæem srediπtu, preko puta Stephansdoma, etablirati usjeπan suvremeni hotel i restoran u kojemu se sluæe jela za probrano nepce. Demel je poput sage o obiteljima, njihovim trzavicama, ljubavima, malverzacijama i pohlepi, ali i postojanosti kvalitete i otpornosti na æivotne nedaÊe. Vaæan primjer njege tradicije i otvorenosti za inovaciju jest i MAK ili Museum für angewandte Kunst, koji je osnovan 1863. godine po uzoru na Victoria&Albert Museum u Londonu. Cilj je bio stvoriti uzornu zbirku umjetnina, koja bi posluæila kao nadahnuÊe umjetnicima i industriji te oplemenila ukus aristokracije i buræoazije. Vaæan datum u 20.stoljeÊu bilo je imenovanje Petera Noevera za direktora MAK-a (1986.), koji teæiπte poËinje stavljati i na suvremenu umjetnost i povezuje se sa znamenitim umjetnicima iz Europe i SAD-a. On je pokrenuo inicijativu da se po jedna skulptura kipara koji izlaæu u MAK-u otkupi za grad BeË i tako oplemeni javni prostor. No jedno je od njegovih najvaænijih postignuÊa πto je suvremenim umjetnicima dao zadatak da uz pomoÊ kuratora muzeja naprave izloæbu za pojedina stilska razdoblja. Ta stalna izloæba snaæno djeluje na posjetitelje jer, kad uu, zahvati ih kovitlac osuvremenjene povijesti. Jenny Holzer, jedna od najpoznatijih ameriËkih suvremenih umjetnica, odgovorna je za razdoblje ampir i bidermajer. NaËin izlaganja namjeπtaja i uporabnih predmeta tog razdoblja oblikovan je njezinom estetikom koja uvijek istodobno smiruje, ali i ushiÊuje. Slavni Donald Judd autor je postava predmeta iz baroka, rokokoa i klasicizma, a za neke izloπke dizajnirao
je i vitrine. Smjeπten tik do gradskog parka (Stadtpark), taj je muzej ogledalo nastojanja da se tradicija saËuva, da se s njom stupi u kreativan dijalog i da onda nastane neπto sasvim novo, suvremeno, primjereno naπem Zeitgeistu (duhu vremena). Suradnja i dogovor modus operandi su BeËana i njihove gradske uprave. Uprava teæi prosperitetu graana koji svojim kreativnim pothvatima pune gradski proraËun kojim se financira kvalitetno zajedniπtvo. Otvorenost novomu, svijest da je eksperiment nuæan za otvaranje novih horizonata, postojali su i u odluci kojom su gradske vlasti odobrile i gradnju vrlo neobiËne zgrade Friedensreicha Hundertwassera. Ljepota i sklad s prirodom za Hundertwassera su bile osnovno ljudsko pravo. U svom radu teæio je stvaranju takve arhitekture, a u BeËu se moæe posjetiti njegova zgrada, tzv. Hundertwasserhaus. RijeË je o stambenoj zgradi u vlasniπtvu grada BeËa, graenoj od 1983. do 1986.godine. Zgrada je neobiËna, πarena, u njoj raste oko 250 stabala i grmova, prostori se u njoj pojavljuju poput iznenadnih proplanaka. U kuÊi su 52 stana, Ëetriri poslovna prostora, a zanimljive su i raznobojne krovne terase. Zgrada je himna oblinama, punini, pulsira æivotom, puna je neravnih podova i zavijutaka i kao da je proglasila rat predvidivim ravnim plohama. Hundertwasser je volio spirale i æestoko se protivio racionalnosti u arhitekturi. Osobito dojmljive njegove su zgrade u Dresdenu i Magdeburgu u NjemaËkoj. Zgrada se moæe posjetiti, stanovi se mogu razgledati, a u prizemlju je i vrlo ugodan bistro. BeË je grad koji ne valja posjetiti nepripremljen. Zato bi bilo dobro proËitati vodiË o gradu i izraditi itinerar prema vlastitim sklonostima i trenutaËnim nadahnuÊima. − BeË nudi − kazuje veleposlanica, gospoa IkiÊ-Böhm − tijekom cijele godine kulturnu ponudu za razliËite skupine stanovniπta i te su manifestacije postale brand. Mnogo je festivala s proljeÊa i ljeti (Stadtfest, Donauinselfest), tada se ispred vijeÊnice prikazuju i operni filmovi. Za sportske zaljubljenike vaæan je BeËki maraton, a tijekom cijele godine odræavaju se mnogobrojni kongresi. U tom segmentu turizma BeË je na prvome mjestu u svijetu. Ugodne ulice pozivaju na πetnju, restorani Heurigen nude okrepu osobito za ljetnih veËeri. Posjet Schönbrunnu uvijek je aktualan, a boæiÊni sajam na turiste djeluje poput magneta. Stanovnici su BeËa ljubazni, pa ne Ëudi πto je BeË veÊ Ëetvrti put zaredom izabran za grad s najveÊom æivotnom kvalitetom (Mercer). Ponuda je zaista gotovo nepregledna. Dobar je primjer za obilje i MuseumsQuartier, koji sjedinjuje 70 ustanova i jedan je od svjetski najveÊih areala posveÊenog umjetnosti i kulturi. Vikend CROATIA AIRLINES
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involved in the process to achieve a win-win situation despite what their feelings may be. It seems that the Habsburgs knew early on how to do that: they did not conquer Europe by warfare but by arranged marriages. The population of Vienna increases by approximately 15,000 people on average every year. In 2012, the number went up by as many as 25,000 inhabitants so that nowadays, Vienna has 1,740,000 residents. Some say that Vienna is a metropolis with a country feel, that it is a stress-free city. The pedestrian culture is very important; strolling is considered as important for one’s physical wellbeing as it is for one’s psychological wellbeing. Dialogue, communication, integration; these are the buzzwords often repeated on the official web pages of the city of Vienna (www.wien.at). One of the city administration’s objectives is to do away with physical and psychological barriers. For example, the city’s official web page contains a host of texts marked as ll (easy read) so that even those readers who are not as well educated are able to understand the decisions that have been made. The document entitled Wiener Charte has been particularly well received. It was adopted last year to appeal to both the old and young, the locals and the new settlers so that they can all live in coexistence. It suggests how people should behave towards each other in public spaces, on the streets, in the squares and in traffic. Coexisting and accepting other mentalities is a challenge for the locals as well as for the many immigrants who have come to Vienna to find work, to be united with their families or as asylum seekers. Foreign residents of Vienna account for 25.5 per cent of its total population. Therefore, it is
se Ëini prekratak za BeË - taj grad zasluæuje mnogo viπe vremena i posveÊenosti, a bogatstvo kulturne, sportske i πoping ponude prati i πiroka lepeza gastronomskih delicija. A ako danas ne moæete odvojiti vrijeme za BeË, moæete uroniti u njegov duh uz knjigu JuËeraπnji svijet Stefana Zweiga, jednoga od najveÊih poznavatelja i svjedoka doba koje se joπ Êuti na beËkim ulicama. n
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he economic crisis which has been shaking the world for years cannot be felt in Vienna and Austria. To prove that the feeling is right, relevant economic data bear witness to a slight economic upturn and the lowest unemployment rate in Europe. How is this possible? What is the secret? We put 100
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these questions to Mrs. Andrea IkiÊ Böhm, the Ambassador of the Republic of Austria in Croatia, and this is what she told us: − The secret lies in consensus. Everybody works hard towards reaching an agreement. That is why there are no strikes in Austria. In Austria, we really live in a kind of social partnership. The solid economic situation is a result of such cooperation. The ambassador’s answer probably also hides the magic formula of the state of the spirit in Vienna. For centuries, this has been described by the term Gemütlichkeit, which means the situation of having peace of mind. Arguably, the mind can relax with the knowledge that there are clear rules, prescribed decision making procedures and ongoing efforts by everybody
not surprising that the city’s official web pages are published in English, Bosnian, Croatian, Serbian and Turkish. Owing to its experience as the capital of what was a multiethnic and multicultural monarchy, Vienna seems to be quite capable of dealing with integration processes which both the locals and foreigners find a challenging exercise that requires hard work on both sides while following the motto integration and diversity. Every year, the city is visited by a staggering number of tourists. Most of the city’s revenues (83.1%) are generated from the tertiary sector of the economy, i.e. services and communication. Excellence and courteousness, the willingness to communicate and maintain a dialogue are the foundation of the continuous economic success which may be best illustrated by the example of the globally famous pastry shop Demel. Since it was established in 1786, it has always born the mark of quality K.u.K. Hofzuckerbäcker Wien meaning that the business has the royal warrant. The pastry shop is close to the royal palace so the Emperor Franz Joseph and the Empress Elisabeth, popularly known as Sissi, often ordered titbits from there. Besides the host of delicious pastries, Demel’s claim to global fame is a tradition of decorating the shop windows in the Baroque and Rococo style. The tradition began with the Baron Federico Berzeviczy-Pallavicini, who married Klara Demel in 1936. Another trademark is the attire of the so called Demelinerinnen who serve their patrons in black dresses with white aprons (homage to the times when Demel employed former novices from Viennese nunneries). They always address their patrons in the archaic third person plural, for example: Have they already chosen?
After nearly two centuries, the successful family business started experiencing financial difficulties and the family sold out to one of the most notorious Austrian businessmen, Udo Proksch. Wanted for murder, he fled before the law; he underwent plastic surgery to change his appearance. He was eventually arrested, convicted and put in prison where he died. Demel was taken over by Raiffeisenbank as its main creditor, and in 2002 the imperial pastry shop was bought by the company Do&Co, whose owner, the Turkish immigrant Attila Dogudan, has become the world’s biggest caterer with the help of Niki Lauda. His company currently supplies food to 60 airlines and 17 out of 20 of the world famous Formula 1 races and it employs approximately 7,000 people in 25 cities (for example New York, London, Istanbul). Since 2004, Do&Co has been the caterer of European football championships. Dogudan was born in 1959 in Istanbul. As a 10-year old boy he moved to Vienna with his parents. In 1959, he started his own company. His friendship with Lauda has opened many doors for him. Having acquired Demel, he has continued to pay due respect to the tradition while very cautiously introducing novelties − yet another example of a very successful dialogue. Dogudan’s next notable success was the opening of a successful contemporary hotel in the famous Haashause − a controversial modern building in the city centre, just across the square from Stephan Dom. The hotel’s restaurant serves mouth watering delicacies for discerning palates. Demel is like a family saga, with differences of opinion, loves, dodgy deals and greed, and yet with quality and resilience despite all that. Another good example of a place where tradition is carefully nurtured while innovations are CROATIA AIRLINES
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welcome is MAK or Museum fur angewandte Kunst which was established in 1863. It was modelled after London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. The underlying idea was to create an exemplary art collection that would inspire artists and the industry and improve the tastes of the aristocracy and bourgeoisie. An important date in the 20th century was the appointment of Peter Noever as the director of MAK (1986). He channelled most of his activities towards contemporary art and established links with renowned artists from all over Europe and the USA. At his initiative, each sculptor who exhibited at the MAK sold a sculpture to the city of Vienna to embellish the appearance of the city. However, one of his biggest achievements was when he gave a task to artists to create a display for various period styles with the help of the museum’s curators. This permanent exhibit has a powerful effect on visitors. When they enter, they are caught in the whirlwind of modernized history. Jenny Holzer, one of the most famous American contemporary artists, is responsible for styling the Empire and Biedermeier. The display of furniture and objects from that period follows her aesthetic logic which calms and exhilarates at the same time. The famous Donald Judd is the author of the display of objects from the
periods of Baroque, Rococo and Classicism. He went as far as to design display cabinets for some of the exhibits. Sitting snugly next to the Viennese City Park (Stadtpark) this museum reflects efforts to preserve tradition, to enter into a creative dialogue with it and to use this as a starting point for something very new, modern and something that fits our Zeitgeist (the spirit of our time). Cooperation and agreement are the modus operandi, followed by Vienna’s citizens and their city’s administrations. The administration strives towards facilitating the prosperity of those whose creative endeavours bring revenues to the city’s budget which, in turn, is used to fund the quality of life for all. Openness to all things new, the awareness that experimenting is essential to open new horizons, existed already at the time when the city authorities decided to give Hundertwasser permission to design and develop a most unusual building. In Hundertwasser’s mind, beauty and harmony with nature are some of the basic human rights. His architectural designs reflect that view. His project, the so called Hundertwasserhaus, can be visited in Vienna. This residential building, the property of the City of Vienna, was developed between 1983 and 1986. The building is a most strikingly colourful edifice with about
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250 trees and shrubs growing in it; spaces appear quite out of the blue, like unexpected glades in a forest. There are 52 apartments and 4 offices in the building. One of the building’s distinct features are its multicoloured roof terraces. The Hundertwasserhaus is a hymn to curves and fullness; it pulsates with life and is full of uneven floors and curvatures − it seems as if it has declared war on predictable flat surfaces and straight lines. Hundertwasser was fond of spirals and also an ardent opponent of rationality in architecture. Particularly striking are his buildings in Dresden and Munich in Germany. The building in Vienna is open to visitors, the apartments can be viewed and the ground floor houses a very pleasant bistro. One should not visit Vienna unprepared; rather, one would be well advised to read a city guidebook in advance and devise an itinerary that will take into account one’s proclivities and current inspirations. The ambassador IkiÊ Böhm says: Throughout the year, Vienna offers a host of culture for everybody. Every group of citizens is spoiled for choice with events, some of which have become brands. There are many spring and autumn festivals (Stadtfest, Donauinselfest). Opera movies are shown in front of the town hall during that time. Sports buffs flock to the Vienna Marathon. With congresses and conferences taking place back to back throughout the year, Vienna is the world’s leader in the MICE industry. Pleasant streets tempt you to take long strolls; Heurigen restaurants provide refreshments, particularly in summer evenings. A visit to Prater is always on the agenda, whereas the Vienna Christmas Market lures tourists with a magnetic force. The Viennese citizens are polite and well mannered; therefore it is not surprising that, for the fourth consecutive year, Vienna has been proclaimed the city offering the highest quality of life (Mercer). There is virtually no end to what Vienna has to offer. A case in point is MuseumsQuartier, one of the world’s largest areas dedicated to art and culture with as many as 700 various institutions of that kind. A weekend seems too short for a visit to Vienna. This city deserves much more time and dedication as the wealth of culture, sporting and shopping opportunities is more than adequately matched by an array of gastro delicacies to be sampled and enjoyed. However, if you cannot allocate time to visit Vienna now, you can immerse yourself into its spirit with the book The World of Yesterday by Stephan Zweig, one of the biggest authorities on Vienna and a witness of times with a different spirit which still permeates the city’s streets. n
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PETER PILOTTO, VALENTINO, TOM FORD, PROENZA SCHOULER, LANVIN, BALENCIAGA, AZZEDINE ALAร A, SAINT LAURENT, 0$5< .$75$17=28 *,9(1&+< %$/0$,1 5,&. 2:(16 &ะด/,1( 0$,621 0$57,1 0$5*,(/$ 67(//$ 0&&$571(< BURBERRY PRORSUM, ALEXANDER WANG, MARNI, OLYMPIA LE TAN, FALIERO SARTI, ACNE, VIONNET, MAISON MICHEL, M2MALLETIER, TOM BINNS, ERICKSON BEAMON, NATALIA BRILLI, CARMINA CAMPUS, GIANVITO ROSSI, NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD, BURAK UYAN, SHOUROUK, LINDA FARROW LUXE, HAGA PARIS, ITALIA INDEPENDENT Maria Zagreb, Masarykova 8, 01-4811011 Maria Dubrovnik, Sv. Dominika bb, 020-321330 2XWOHW 'XEURYQLN &YLMHWH =X]RULรพ 2XWOHW =DJUHE &HQWDU .DSWRO 1RYD 9HV www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr facebook.com/mariastore.hr instagram:#mariastore 106
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■ UMJETNOST ART
Piše/By Dubravka Belas Fotografije/Photos Marija Braut
O zaustavljanju æivota ili, bolje, o njegovu odsjaju na fotopapiru, katkad govori Marija Braut, znaËajna hrvatska fotografkinja, posljednja pripadnica zagrebaËke πkole moderne fotografije, onako kako ju je postavio legendarni Toπo Dabac, njezin prijatelj, kum i mentor The stopping of life, or better still, its reflection on photographic paper, is a beloved topic for Marija Braut, the important Croatian female photographer, and the last member of the Zagreb school of modern photography, which was founded by the legendary Tošo Dabac, her friend, godfather and mentor. CROATIA AIRLINES
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otografirati ne znaËi samo rukovati kamerom. U Ëin fotografiranja unosite sve slike koje ste ikada vidjeli, sve knjige koje ste proËitali, glazbu πto ste je sluπali, ljude koje ste voljeli, zapisao je Ansel Adams koji je osnivanjem odsjeka za fotografiju pri Muzeju moderne umjetnosti u New Yorku najviπe uËinio za priznavanje fotografije kao umjetnosti. Za Susan Sontag svaka fotografija predstavlja memento mori. Ona sudjeluje u neËijoj smrtnosti, u ranjivosti, promjenjivosti, pa i kad je rijeË o stvarima, a isijecanjem i zamrzavanjem jednog trenutka svjedoËi o neumoljivom topljenju vremena. Za druge, fotografije su okrutna, ironiËna umjetnost. Kaæu da zarobljeni trenutak odvlaËe u buduÊnost, onaj isti trenutak kojemu je moæda trebalo biti dopuπteno da ispari u proπlosti, da postoji samo u uspomenama i bude zamagljen kasnijim dogaajima. Fotografija nas tjera da gledamo ljude prije nego što ih buduÊnost dokrajËi. I sam je Henri Cartier-Bresson proæivljavao melankoliju rada sa stvarima koje stalno nestaju, a kad jednom nestanu, nema te majstorije, toga trika na zemlji koji bi ih mogao vratiti natrag, pa ostaje samo to hvatanje trenutka, te stotinke sekunde koja se viπe nikad neÊe moÊi ponoviti, reproducirati. Zato su fotografije istodobno i laæna prisutnost i znak odsutnosti, misli Sontag. U knjizi Camera lucida, Svijetla komora, Roland Barthes govori kako je jednom naletio na fotografiju najmlaega Napoleonova brata. S Ëuenjem, koje, kako sâm kaæe, nikad nije mogao ublaæiti, shvatio je da gleda oËi koje su vidjele Cara. Stvarno tijelo koje je nekad bilo ondje, zraËi i napokon dotiËe njega, gledatelja, koji je ovdje, a trajanje je te transmisije posve bez znaËenja. Kako se Ëinilo da nitko ne razumije i ne dijeli to njegovo Ëuenje, zaboravio 108
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ga je s vremenom, shvaÊajuÊi kako je æivot, eto, napravljen od takvih malih usamljenosti. Fotografije biÊa kojega viπe nema, dotaknut Êe ga, zapisao je, poput odgoene zvjezdane zrake. Pred fotografijom svoje majke u djeËjoj dobi Barthes Êe pomisliti − ona Êe umrijeti. I zadrhtati… nad katastrofom koja se u stvarnome æivotu veÊ dogodila. Tako je za njega, bez obzira na to je li ili nije portretirani veÊ mrtav, svaka fotografija jedna takva katastrofa. Gledanje fotografija pomalo je voajersko, no s pristankom, na neki pristojan naËin. PromatrajuÊi ih, uvijek ulazite u neËiju intimu. Izloæenu intimu, ali joπ intimu. »ak i kad je rijeË o fotografijama krajolika ili mrtve prirode, bez ljudskih likova, i dalje su prisutne, tvrdio je to i Adams, najmanje dvije osobe − autor fotografije i promatraË i njihovi se dojmovi isprepleÊu u jedinstven doæivljaj. Tako se Ëini da je æivot prije svega napravljen od malih, svakodnevnih kadrova, milijuna okvira u kojima se raa, umire, voli, tuguje ili smije. NajËeπÊe ih viπe nema u stvarnom æivotu, ali snimka neËijeg plaËa, osmijeha, neËije bolesti, zaustavila se u vremenu i uvijek se, u svakom novom oku, dogaa iznova. O tome zaustavljanju æivota ili, bolje, o njegovu odsjaju na fotopapiru, katkad govori Marija Braut, najznaËajnija hrvatska fotografkinja, posljednja pripadnica zagrebaËke πkole moderne fotografije, onako kako ju je postavio legendarni Toπo Dabac, njezin prijatelj, kum i mentor. U fotografiju je uπla gotovo sluËajno, a onda u njoj otkrila ljubav i strast te se bavila njome dulje od Ëetrdeset godina. Imala je, kaæe, tri æivota − mladost, obitelj i sebe samu. Ostavila je karijeru u folklornom ansamblu Lado kad se, predano i bez æaljenja, posve posvetila obitelji. Kad je, i opet voena ljubavlju, odluËila poÊi dalje, vrijeme je podredila sebi i svome radu, hrabro pretpostavivπi svoj rad svemu ostalomu.
Danas je svaki dan moæete sresti na Gornjem gradu, njezinu pravom æivotnom prostoru i mjestu nadahnuÊa za velik dio njezina opusa. Markantna, prepoznatljive krhkosti, brza na osmijehu i jagodica zarumenjenih kao u neke mladice, s dugom, bijelom kosom skupljenom nisko na potiljku, viπe ne moæe æuriti dugim i hitrim koracima duæ poznatih uliËica prastare zagrebaËke duπe. Za nju, to je najljepπi dio grada koji je otprve zavoljela i odluËila ostati u njemu. Osamdesete uzimaju danak, pa sad uz pomoÊ πtapa iscrtava svoj gornjogradski trokut poznatih sastajaliπta: Pod starim krovovima, Cinkuπ, Molokai… Na Katarininu se trgu, pod suncobranom, hladi Ëaπom punom kockica leda, dopunjenom bijelim vinom. Na suprotnoj je strani gimnazija koju je nekad pohaala, malo dalje galerija u kojoj je imala izloæbu, tu je i staro zdanje u kojemu viπe nema mitske Taverne, sastajaliπta umjetnika i njihovih poklonika. Svaki je korak ovdje bremenit uspomenama − neke su ostale samo njezine, a mnoge je saËuvala i podijelila fotografijom. Majstorstvo je uËila od majstora, umjetnika koji je nikad nije kritizirao, samo bi rekao − ja bih to napravio ovako… a onda i precizno, detaljno naveo − kako. Vezala se uz njega i uz taj tako karakteristiËni chiaroscuro, Ëudesan sraz, katkad tek susret svjetla i tame, sunca i sjene, æivota i smrti. NauËila je da najjaËe svjetlo ostavlja za sobom najmraËniju sjenu. Znala je kako se sjenom svemu moæe pridati vaænost − ako neπto æeliπ uËiniti zanimljivim, govorio je tako i urednik slavnoga Lifea − nemoj to potpuno osvijetliti… A zanimljivo je bilo sve, i mladenka koja sama u vjenËanici æuri πetaliπtem, hodajuÊi rubom svjetla i sjene, gotovo simboliËki, na razmei sreÊe i nesreÊe buduÊega zajedniËkoga æivota, zanimljiva su jednako dva goluba na uskom podestu praznoga i pustoga proËelja obasjana suncem,
zanimljivi su ljudi koji koraËaju ulicom, a ispred njih njihove izduæene, nikad dostiæne sjene. Crno-bijeli svijet jasniji je, a istodobno tajanstveniji od obojenoga. Drugi je slavni fotograf, Ted Grant, rekao: Kad fotografirate ljude u boji, fotografirate njihovu odjeÊu. Ali kad ih fotografirate u crno-bijeloj tehnici, fotografirate njihove duπe. I kao πto je za Mallarméa sve postojalo samo zato da bi zavrπilo u knjizi, tako je za Mariju Braut sve postojalo samo da bude zabiljeæeno njezinim fotoaparatom. Lijepa fotografija odavno veÊ nije znaËila samo lirske motive, cvjetne vjenËiÊe, pastoralu, uvojke djeva odjevenih u Ëipku, morske zalaske sunca, nego je karakter i snagu pronalazila u na izgled bezvrijednome, svakodnevnome, obiËnome. Ono πto je tvorilo razliku i motivu mijenjalo znaËenje i pridavalo mu vaænost, bio je objektiv fotoaparata.
je ganula fotografija Roberta Cape, koju pamti iz mladosti − to je ona poznata fotografija na kojoj Françoise Gilot nasmijana koraËa po pijesku plaæe u Golfe-Juanu, a bosonogi, samo za tu priliku subordinirani, veliki Picasso iznad nje nosi golemi suncobran, πtiteÊi je od sunca. Rekao bi Barthes: oni Êe se rastati, ovo su dani vedrine i sreÊe, ali neÊe potrajati… No fotograf je zarobio taj trenutak i sreÊa nastavlja u njemu æivjeti, izvan stvarnosti koja svojim ærvnjem sve melje i uniπtava. Pamti i Cartier-Bressonove portrete meksiËkih prostitutki, poËupanih pa groteskno iscrtanih obrva, tijela isturenih kroz pomoÊne prozore na troπnim vratima svojih kupleraja. I one se, snimljene tridesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa, joπ iznova smijeπe i dozivaju muπterije. Pamti kako je, kao mlada fotografkinja, dobila zadatak snimati kazaliπte,
silovali, pljaËkali i napokon se obogatili. I kad se, godinama poslije, trijumfalno vrate kuÊi i pred svojim æenama rastvore teπke kovËege, iz njih prokulja samo hrpa razglednica, stotine njih, s motivima svjetskih spomenika, prepunih i bljeπtavih robnih kuÊa, prirodnih Ëuda, svih moguÊih brodova, aviona, umjetnina, svih zamislivih svjetskih blaga… ali na kraju ipak samo slika, samo odsjaj pravih stvari, da podsjete na varljivost fotografske Ëarolije. Tako i mi nosimo sobom svoje kodirane trenutke, svoja iskustva ucrtana na licima, æivotnu popudbinu zabiljeæenu tek na slikama. Ipak, ma kako ih deπifrirali, ono πto na njima vidimo, viπe nismo mi. Marija Ëesto kaæe kako ju je fotografija katkad dovela u najËudnija stanja, odvukla na najneobiËnija mjesta, u daleke gradove i predjele, ali i
Ali niπta nije voljela tako kao svoju tamnu komoru, svoje utoËiπte. Ondje bi pod crvenim svjetlom uvijek iznova iskuπavala Ëudo − onu tajnu πto se dogaa kad se na bijelom listu papira uronjena u razvijaË, iz snopa svjetla propuπtena kroz negativ, poput sjemena, iz prvih mrlja i nejasnih πara, pod prstima, kao da izlazi iz njih, poËne razaznavati oblik i napokon pojavi slika koju smo snimili. Zatim paænja da se ne propusti onaj pravi trenutak kad je treba fiksirati, u trenutku kad je kontrast najbolji, da ne pocrni i ne ugusti se u svoju suprotnost, u tamno niπtavilo. To joj danas najviπe nedostaje, i tu nemoguÊnost razvijanja filma i fotografija smatra svakako neËim najteæim πto joj se dogodilo u profesionalnom æivotu. No jednostavno je postalo fiziËki preteπko prenaπati kade pune kemikalija, prepune lonce u kojima je kuhala razvijaËe po starim Kodakovim receptima i omjerima. Bez njezine tamne komore, bez najdraæega, prvog fotoaparata Rolleiflex 66 koji joj je poklonio Dabac, raskoπ toga crno-bijelog svijeta na neki je naËin zauvijek izgubljena za Mariju Braut. Ali fotografija ju je nauËila da i bez kamere gleda svijet poput objektiva, da i dalje uæiva u slikama, u svakome trenutku. U onome stvarnome i onome na starim fotografijama. Tako oduπevljeno govori o Picassovoj izloæbi, nedavno odræanoj u Zagrebu. Ondje ju
trudila se, sa strahopoπtovanjem, ne smetati, ne remetiti umjetniËki proces koji se dogaao na pozornici i iza nje, meu kulisama... Hodala bi πto tiπe kako bi uhvatila najbolji rakurs, ali izdalo bi je πkljocanje okidaËa. Gumbek, glumac Mladen Crnobrnja, dao joj je tada nadimak: Marija tiho hoda… Tako se danas zove dokumentarni film o njezinu æivotu i radu. Fotografija je za nju i zanat, i ljubav, i instinkt, i intuicija. Njezina fotografija nije nikad reæirana ili manipulirana na bilo kojih naËin, pa ipak je samo njezina. DokumentirajuÊi stvarni æivot, svojom kamerom piπe vlastiti iskreni dnevnik, zapisuje nepreraenu kroniku samo svojih motiva. A oni su bili razliËiti, njezini su ciklusi brojni i po temi i po vremenu, jednom su to genre-prizori, drugi put newyorπki neboderi, dragocjeni portreti hrvatskih umjetnika proπlog stoljeÊa ili neiscrpni zagrebaËki motivi, pa prozori, prozori, bezbroj prozora, poput navjeπtaja, poput zrcala u kojemu se nastavlja drugaËiji æivot, onaj uliËni koji se gleda s prozora, i onaj zatvoreni, kuÊni, ne nuæno obiteljski, kakav se tek nasluÊuje s ulice. No uvijek su dokaz da su sva ta lica, svi ti gradovi i krajolici, sve blago vienja i slika, jednom doista postojali. I da ih nosimo u sebi kao bogatstvo, gotovo poput one dvojice Godardovih junaka, iz filma Karabinijeri, priglupih seljaka koji, namamljeni obeÊanjima, odlaze u rat kako bi palili, ubijali,
da nikada ne bi, da se nije bavila fotografijom, tako dobro upoznala Hrvatsku, od najsjevernije toËke do Konavala i Prevlake. Najdraæe joj je, kaæe, draæe od svih formalnih priznanja i nagrada, kad vidi da se njezine fotografije i danas izlaæu i razgledaju i nada se da Êe jednom i mnogi neobjavljeni, joπ nerazvrstani i nesreeni negativi, biti dostupni i rado gledani. Trebao je Ëitav jedan æivotni vijek da ih se prikupi. Trebalo je i hrabrosti odgovoriti tom pozivu, prepustiti se nadahnuÊu, trenutku, odvaæiti se i napraviti neπto riziËno, neπto tako ljudsko. Otvoriti prozor. Jer, kaæe stih, svaki prozor je slika. Svaka slika je prozor. ■
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ou don’t make a photograph just with a camera. You bring to the act of photography all the pictures you have seen, the books you have read, the music you have heard, the people you have loved, wrote Ansel Adams, who by establishing the Department of Photography at the Museum of Modern Art in New York has done the most for the recognition of photography as an art. For Susan Sontag, each photograph is a memento mori. It participates in someone’s death, vulnerability and volatility, even when it comes to objects; by cutting out and freezing a moment it testifies to the relentless melting of time. CROATIA AIRLINES
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For others, photographs are a cruel, ironic art. They say that photos capture a moment and drag it into the future, the same moment that maybe should have been allowed to evaporate in the past, to exist only in memories and to be blurred by later events. Photography forces us to look at people before they become history. Even Henri Cartier-Bresson experienced the melancholy of working with things that keep disappearing, and once they are gone there is no master craft, no trick on earth that could bring them back, so the only thing left to do is capture the moment, that hundredth of a second that will never be replicated, reproduced. That is why Sontag believes that pictures are, at the same time, a false presence and a sign of absence. In his book Camera Lucida, Roland Barthes talks about how he once happened on a photograph of Napoleon’s youngest brother. He could never lessen the astonishment he felt as he realized that he was looking at eyes that looked at the Emperor. From a real body, which was there, proceed radiations which ultimately touch me, who am here; the duration of the transmission is insignificant; the photograph of the missing being, will touch me like the delayed rays of a star. As it seemed that no one understood or shared his amazement he forgot about it eventually, realizing that life consists of these little touches of solitude. In front of a photograph of his mother when he was a child, Barthes thought: she is going to die. He shuddered, over a catastrophe which had already occurred. That is how it was for him. Whether or not the subject was already dead, every photograph was this type of catastrophe. Viewing photos is a bit voyeuristic, but with consent in some sort of polite way. By looking at them you are always invading someone’s privacy. It is an exposed privacy, but nonethe-
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less, it is still their privacy. Even when it comes to photos of landscapes or still lifes, without human figures, Adams claimed that at least two people are still present − the author of the photo and the observer, and their impressions are interwoven into a unique experience. So it seems that life is primarily made up of small, daily shots; millions of frames in which you find birth, death, love, grief or happiness. Most often they are no longer with us in real life, but a snapshot of someone’s tears, smile, someone’s illness, is frozen forever in time and every time another set of eyes sees the photo, it is as if the moment occurs again. The stopping of life, or better still, its reflection on photographic paper, is a beloved topic for Marija Braut, the most important Croatian female photographer, and the last member of the Zagreb school of modern photography, which was founded by the legendary Tošo Dabac, her friend, godfather and mentor. She stumbled upon photography almost by accident, but she discovered a love and passion for it and ended up doing it for more than forty years. She says that she has had three lives - her youth, family and herself alone. She left a career with the folklore ensemble Lado when she decided to devote herself entirely to her family with dedication and without regret. When she decided to go further, again driven by love, she dedicated all her time to herself and her work, bravely putting her work before everything else. Today, you can see her daily in the Upper Town, in her true habitat and the place that has inspired such a large part of her opus. She still cuts a striking and distinctively fragile figure. She is quick to smile and has the rosy cheeks of a young maiden. Her long, white hair is tied back low at the nape, but she can no longer rush around with long and swift steps along the famous streets of Zagreb’s old soul.
This has always been the most beautiful part of the city to her, the place she fell in love with at first sight and decided to stay. The eighties had taken their toll, and now, with the help of a cane, she follows the path of her Upper Town triangle of famous meeting places: Pod starim krovovima, Cinkuš, Molokai… You can find her under a parasol in St. Catherine’s Square, with a cold glass full of ice cubes, topped off with white wine. Across the square is the high school she once attended, and a little bit further down is the gallery where she exhibited, and there is also an old building which no longer houses the mythical Taverna, a one-time meeting place for artists and their fans. Every step here is full of memories - some have remained just hers, and many of them she has preserved and shared in photographs. She learned the craft from a master; an artist who never criticized, who would just say - I would do it like this… and then would go on to explain precisely and in detail - how. She attached herself to him and his trademark chiaroscuro, a bold contrast, sometimes just an encounter of light and dark, sun and shade, life and death. She learned that the strongest light leaves behind the darkest shadow. She knew how to attach importance to something by using shadows - if you want to make something seem interesting, said the editor of the famous magazine Life, do not illuminate it too much… Everything was interesting to her: a bride in her wedding dress hurrying alone along the promenade on the edge of light and shadow, almost symbolically, on the border between the happiness and unhappiness of a future life together; equally interesting are two pigeons on a narrow landing of a deserted sunlit façade; and also interesting are the people walking down the street, with their elongated, elusive shadows in front of them.
A black and white world is clearer, and at the same time, more secretive than a world of colours. Another famous photographer, Ted Grant, said, When you photograph people in colour, you photograph their clothes. But when you photograph people in black and white, you photograph their souls! For Mallarmé, everything existed to end up in a book; for Marija Braut, everything existed to be recorded by her camera. For a long time already, beautiful photography did not mean only lyrical motifs, floral wreaths, idyllic landscapes, the locks of maidens dressed in lace and sea sunsets; she found character and strength in the seemingly worthless, everyday mundane. What made a difference and changed the significance of any motif was the camera lens. There was nothing she loved more than her darkroom, her refuge. There, under the red lights, time and time again, she tempted a miracle - that secret of what happens when a white sheet of paper is immersed in the developer, and from the beam of light transmitted through the negatives, like seeds, come the
moments captured in old photos. Thus, she spoke so enthusiastically about Picasso’s exhibition that was recently held in Zagreb. There she was moved by the picture by Robert Capa, which she remembers from her youth − that famous photograph of Françoise Gilot smiling while walking on a sand beach in Golf-Juan, with great Picasso, barefoot and subordinate just for the occasion, carrying a huge umbrella, protecting her from the sun. Barthes would say: they will get divorced, these are days of cheerfulness and happiness, but they will not last... But the photographer has captured the moment and the happiness continues to live in it, beyond the reality which continues to grind everything into nothingness. She remembers Cartier-Bresson’s portrait of Mexican prostitutes, with eyebrows first plucked and then grotesquely drawn, their bodies protruding through narrow windows on the rickety doors of their whorehouses. Captured in the thirties of the last century, they are still smiling and calling to customers. She recalls how, as a young photographer, she was given the task of recording the theatre. She was in awe and
different life takes place, a life on the street that can be seen from the window, as well as an enclosed life, not necessarily that of a family, that can be only foreboded from the street. But they are always proof that all the faces, all of these cities and landscapes, all the treasures of vision and images, truly existed at one time. And that we carry them in ourselves as wealth, almost like the two heroes in Godard’s film The Carabineers, the simple minded peasants who, tempted by promises, went to war in order to burn, kill, rape, rob and eventually get rich. Years later, upon their triumphant return home, they opened their heavy suitcases in front of their wives and out tumbled a bunch of postcards, hundreds of them, with motifs of world monuments, rich and shiny department stores, natural wonders, all sorts of ships, aircraft, artwork, all the conceivable world treasure... but in the end, they were just pictures, just reflections of the real thing, to remind them of the delusiveness of photographic magic. Likewise, we carry our own coded moments, our experiences drawn on faces, life necessities
first smudges and obscure patterns, under the fingers, as if coming out of them, and then shapes start to be recognizable, and finally the image you captured emerges. Then you must pay close attention not to miss the exact moment when it should be fixed, the moment when the contrast is the best, so it does not turn black or smother the other colours, into dark nothingness. This is what she misses the most now; losing that ability to develop film and photographs she considers to be one of the toughest things that happened to her in her professional life. But it just became too difficult to schlep the tubs full of chemicals and the full pots in which she cooked the developers according to Kodak’s old recipes and ratios. Without her darkroom, and without her favourite first camera, a Rolleiflex 66 which was given to her by Dabac, the magnificence of that black-and-white world was, in some way, forever lost for Marija Braut. However, photography taught her to look at the world as if through a lens even without a camera, and she still enjoys photos, every moment. Real moments and
tried hard not to disturb, not to interfere with the artistic process that was happening on the stage and behind it, among the scenery... She would walk as quietly as possible in order to get the best angle, but would be betrayed by the clicking of the shutter. Gumbek, the actor Mladen Crnobrnja, gave her the nickname: Marija Walks in Silence... Thus, that is the name of the documentary about her life and work. Photography is her craft, and love and instinct and intuition. Her photography has never been edited or manipulated in any way, and yet it is still only hers. By documenting real life, she writes her own honest diary with her camera; she compiles raw chronicles of motives that belong only to her. And they were numerous and different. She went through many cycles, in terms of numbers, themes and time. At one time they were genre scenes, the next time that of New York skyscrapers, the precious portraits of Croatian artists of the last century or inexhaustible Zagreb motives, and windows, windows, countless windows, just like an intimation, like a mirror in which a
recorded only in pictures. However, no matter how you decipher them, what we see in them is no longer us. Marija often talks about how photography put her in the strangest situation, dragged her to the most unusual places, to distant cities and regions, but also that she never would have become so well acquainted with Croatia, from the northernmost point to Konavle and Prevlaka, if she had not been engaged in photography. The dearest thing to her, she says, more important than all the formal acknowledgments and awards, is when she sees that her photographs are nowadays still being published and looked at and the hope that one day the many unpublished, still unsorted and unruly negatives, will be accessible and beloved. It has taken an entire lifetime to collect them all. It took courage to respond to this call, to give in to inspiration, the moment, to dare and do something risky, something so human. To open a window. Because, as the saying goes: Every window is a picture. Every picture is a window. ■ CROATIA AIRLINES
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â&#x2013; MODA FASHION
Dajana Vuksan&Kruno Jendrijev Space look kao inspiracija
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Space look as an inspiration
Svaki put kad na oglasnoj ploËi zagrebaËkoga Tekstilno-tehnoloπkog fakulteta osvane poziv za Modni Ormar, studenti kreÊu u novu avanturu. Zadaje im se tema, no ujedno imaju veliku slobodu. Modni Ormar u sklopu programa nudi i revije poznatih dizajnera, ujedno bivπih studenata Tekstilno-tehnoloπkog fakulteta. Every time the Fashion Closet poster first appears on the notice board of the Zagreb School of Textile Design and Technology, students embark on a new adventure. They are given the theme, but they are also given a lot of freedom to do what they want with it. As part of its programme, the Fashion Closet offers shows by well known designers and former students of the School of Textile Design and Technology. Piše/By Dubravka PrpiÊ Znaor Fotografije/Photos Arhiva Modnog ormara/Fashion Closet Archive
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ako bi se modna scena razvijala, ali i neka dræava oplodila svoj kreativni potencijal i dizajnerski identitet, potrebna su strukovna dogaanja koja su Ëvrsto povezana s fakultetima i institucijama koje proizvode mlade dizajnerske nade. Njihova je uloga da definiraju, oblikuju i unaprjeuju modni status neke zemlje, odnosno da nude talente koji su spremni istaknuti se na lokalnoj, a onda i na meunarodnoj modnoj sceni. Upravo takva priËa vrti se oko Modnog Ormara, veÊ slavnog dogaanja na ovim prostorima… − Æalim ih, teπko Êe im biti ove sezone − kaže prof. Nina Reæek-Wilson, osoba koja je promijenila hrvatsku modnu scenu i dala joj originalan peËat pokrenuvπi prije osam sezona Modni Ormar, strukovno natjecanje mladih dizajnera − studenata Tekstilno-tehnoloπkog fakulteta. Koga Êe joj biti æao? Pa æirija - kreacije su svake godine sve bolje i kvalitetnije, studenti se uvelike trude, rade ih uz pomoÊ profesora, te je sve teæe odabrati najbolju kolekciju. A u æiriju su sami znalci i vrhunski profesionalci iz svijeta mode, i to je joπ jedno obilježje Modnog Ormara: Wendy Dagworthy, predsjednica londonske ©kole za tekstil i dizajn i ujedno predsjednica æirija, Stephen Higginson, glavni urednik utjecajnog magazina International textile, umjetnik i kipar Wim de Blaiser, slavni modni dizajner iz Londona Louis de Gama (svake sezone predstavlja se kolekcijom na londonskom tjednu mode), Natalie Gibson, πefica odjela za tekstil na londonskom St.
Martins (legendarna institucija na kojoj su studirali brojni utjecajni dizajneri od Galliana do McQueena), Jessica Bugg s London College of Fashion, Donna Ives, predavaËica na Art & Fashion university iz Kenta, Alex Brownless, glavna urednica britanskog magazina Arts & Thread, Martyn Roberts, scout za londonski tjedan mode, poznata modna dizajnerica Hiroko Koshino, Bora Aksu, dizajner iz Londona, Frederic Molenac, pariπki dizajner & umjetnik, londonski dizajner Jens Laugesen, Nic Peters, doktor umjetnosti iz Bruxellesa, Jorge Moita, dizajner iz Portugala, i Safak Tokur, dizajner iz Turske. Glavna nagrada Modnog Ormara nosi ime pokojne slavne dizajnerice Kaat Tilley, koja je neko vrijeme bila Ëlan ovog izvrsnog æirija. Ovakvu ekipu teπko je okupiti na jednome mjestu u isto vrijeme, no Nina, Ëija je energija beskrajna, a ljubav prema mladim dizajnerima neupitna, uspijeva ovaj zadatak ostvarivati veÊ godinama. Zaπto je, osim toga, Modni Ormar osobit? Upravo zbog povezanosti domaÊe i internacionalne scene na kojoj su najvaæniji dizajneri s diplomom, a to je jedini pravilan naËin da se naπa moda profilira kao ozbiljna profesija i izvan granica. − Vrata osmog Modnog Ormara otvaramo 4. studenog u prostorima ZagrebaËkog plesnog centra, u središtu Zagreba. Razne revije, manifestacije i izloæbe trajat Êe sve do kraja mjeseca − kaæe Nina. − Danas je to pravi festival mladih modnih dizajnera, a kad se sjetim poËetaka… Prije osam godina, prateÊi Fas-
hion week Zagreb, grupa studenata i asistenti na Modnom dizajnu doslovce su isprovocirali prvi Modni Ormar koji smo uspjeli prirediti za samo tri mjeseca, s mizernom svotom. Smjestili smo se u prostor ZagrebaËkog kazaliπta lutaka i galeriju StanËiÊ. Odonda se Ormar mijenjao, rastao i pribliæavao svojim idealima: Mittelmodi Gorizia, zavrπnim revijama na Royal Academy of art − Antwerpen i ITS Trieste. No, i dalje radimo s malo sredstava u odnosu na druge modne manifestacije, no ne odustajemo od ideala i cilja. Isto tako, mijenjali su se prostori − kazaliπte Komedija, popularna zagrebaËka Kockica, kazaliπte Treπnja, Muzej za umjetnost i obrt… cijelo to vrijeme uspjeli smo zadræati svjeæinu modnog pristupa i svaka sezona prati novu temu. Ovaj put to je etno. Mladi su se dizajneri poigrali idejom iskoristivih krojeva nosivih na viπe naËina, te su osmislili kreacije koje se mogu nositi neovisno o sezoni i trendu. − Svake se sezone broj zainteresiranih poveÊava, a tako se stvara i atmosfera kreativnosti koja se onda prenosi na samu manifestaciju. U Hrvatskoj postoji nekoliko tjedana mode odnosno razdoblja tijekom kojih se predstavljaju naπi poznati ili manje poznati dizajneri, no Modni je Ormar karta za one koji su dizajn odabrali kroz sveuËiliπno obrazovanje. To je, naime, legitiman naËin da idu dalje, pa i u Europu. − Modni Ormar otvorio je do sada put mladim pobjednicima na neka meunarodna natjecanja, a meu njima su Nikola Barbir, Adela KliπkiÊ, Morana Kranjec, CROATIA AIRLINES
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Nevenka Buzov - Organski oblici prevedeni u tekstil Organic forms interpreted in textiles
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Dominika MandiÊ Limeni Ëovjek iz »arobnjaka iz Oza stigao je u 21. stoljeÊe The Tin Man from the Wizard of Oz has arrived in the 21st century CROATIA AIRLINES
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Anita KoturiĂ&#x160; - Spoj suprotnosti: lanci i romantiĂ&#x2039;na silueta A meeting of opposites: chains and a romantic silhouette
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Vanja VeseliĂ&#x160; - Arhitektonski pristup odijevanju s naglaskom na plise An architectural approach to dressing with an emphasize on pleats CROATIA AIRLINES
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Matija »op, te proπlogodiπnja pobjednica Pavla AleksiÊ, koju je æiri Modnog Ormara pozvao da se javi na natjeËaj Who’s Next Prêt-à-porter Paris. Uπla je meu deset pobjednika i dobila priliku da se predstavi u Parizu. FantastiËno! Ovom prilikom profesorica Nina Reæek-Wilson zahvaljuje svim djelatnicima u backstageu, koji manifestaciju prate godinama i nesebiËno joj daju svu ljubav i energiju, jer bez njih sve ovo bilo bi nemoguÊe ostvariti. − Kako je moda nimalo bezbolan biznis, osobito danas kad je to vrlo popularno zanimanje kod nas i u svijetu, mladi se dizajneri moraju boriti 24 sata na dan − istiËe profesorica. − Uspjeh im je olakπan i razmjenom preko raznih sveuËiliπnih programa, koje u svakom pogledu potiËem. Stvar je iskustva. Uvijek je dobro posjeÊivati druge zemlje i upoznavati nove kulture jer tako se πire horizonti, a dizajner se razvija kreativno. Modni Ormar u sklopu programa nudi i revije poznatih dizajnera, ujedno bivπih studenata Tekstilno-tehnoloπkog fakulteta. Ove godine predstavit Êe se –enisa PecotiÊ, Emina Kuπan, Anamarija Ricov, Ivica KlariÊ, Ivan Badanjak i goπÊa iz Budimpeπte Anna Vessey. Svaki put kad na oglasnoj ploËi Tekstilno-tehnoloπkog fakulteta osvane poziv za Modni Ormar, studenti kreÊu u novu avanturu. Zadaje im se tema, no ujedno imaju veliku slobodu. NaËin na koji Êe neπto prikazati ovisi o njihovoj struËnosti, o znanju, ali i talentu. − Svaki put nanovo oduπevi me ta koliËina kreativnosti i stanja uma, koji imaju ti naπi mladi ljudi. Svatko ima svoju priËu, razloge, stil i modni instinkt − istiËe Nina Režek. Upravo je to ono πto pokreÊe svijet mode. Ta neobuzdana energija iz koje se raaju nove stvari i ideje. ■
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or a state which wants to enhance its creative potential and designer identity, as well as develop its fashion scene, professional and trade events are a must. They need to cooperate closely with universities and institutions of higher learning which produce young and up and coming designers. Their role is to define, shape and improve a country’s fashion status, i.e. to promote talents which are ready to take centre stage, first on the local scene and then also on the international fashion scene. It is precisely that kind of scenario that underlies the Fashion Closet, an event that has already found fame in our parts. − I feel sorry for them, they will not have an easy time this season, says Professor Nina Reæek-Wilson, the person who changed the Croatian fashion scene eight seasons ago and gave it a very original mark when she launched the Fashion Closet, a professional competition of up and coming designers, students of the School of Textile Design and Technology. Who might she be feeling sorry for? Well, the panel of judges. The creations are getting better and better and their quality is higher by the year. Students try hard; they work along with their professors which is why it is becoming ever harder to choose the best collection. And what a panel this is! Its members are connoisseurs and top professionals from the world of fashion − which is yet another special quality of the Fashion Closet: Wendy Dagworthy, Head of the London School of Fashion & Textiles, and also the president of the panel; Stephen Higginson, the editor-in-chief of the influential magazine International Textiles; artist and sculptor Wim de Blaiser; the famous fashion designer from London, 120
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Louis de Gama (his collection is featured every season at the London Fashion Week); Natalie Gibson, Head of the Print Design Department at London’s St. Martins (a legendary institutions which boasts many influential designers as its former students, including Galliano and McQueen amongst others); Jessica Bugg of the London College of Fashion; Donna Ives, Senior Lecturer at Art & Fashion University in Kent; Alex Brownless, the editor-in-chief of the British magazine Arts & Thread; Martyn Roberts, a scout for the London Fashion Week; the well-known fashion designer Hiroko Koshino; Bora Aksu, a London-based designer; Frederic Molenac, a Paris-based designer and artist; Jens Laugesen, a London-based designer; Nic Peters who holds a PhD in art and works in Brussels; Jorge Moita, a designer from Portugal; and Safak Tokur, a designer from Turkey. The Fashion Closet’s chief award bears the name of the famous late designer Kaat Tilley, who was also a member of this eminent panel for a while. It is by no means an easy task to gather such a team in one place at the same time, but Nina, whose energy seems inexhaustible, and whose love for young designers is so obviously unquestionable, has done it for years now. What makes the Fashion Closet so special,
in addition to its famous judges? It provides a link between the Croatian and international fashion scenes where designers with a diploma matter the most. This is also the only correct way for our fashion to gain a profile as a serious profession beyond Croatian borders. − The eighth Fashion Closet is scheduled to open its door on 4 November on the floor of Zagreb’s Dance Centre, in the very heart of Zagreb. Catwalk shows, events and exhibitions will last until the end of the month, says Nina. − Today, it is a real festival of fashion designers, but when I remember the beginnings... Eight years ago, a group of students and junior professors from the School of Fashion Design literally pushed their way through by organizing the first Fashion Closet as an accompanying event to the Zagreb Fashion Week. It had taken us only three months to put it together, with a pittance for a budget. We hired rooms in Zagreb’s Puppet Theatre and the StanËiÊ Gallery. Since then, the Closet has changed and grown and it is slowly coming closer to achieving its ideals: Mittelmoda Gorizia, the final shows at the Royal Academy of Art − Antwerp and ITS Trieste. We are still largely underfunded in comparison with some other fashion events but we will not give up on our ideals and goal. Since the early days, the ve-
Andrea Hess&Valinea Vinger Anatomija mode u æenstvenoj varijanti/A feminine take on the anatomy of fashion
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nues have changed − the Comedy Theatre, Zagreb’s popular Kockica, the Treπnja Theatre, the Museum of Arts and Crafts... All this time, we have managed to preserve freshness in the approach to fashion while every season revolves around a new theme. This year, the theme is ethno and eco. Our young designers have played with the idea of reusability and versatility and they have come up with creations which can be worn in any season irrespective of prevailing trends. − Every year there is a growing number of those interested in taking part. The result is an atmosphere conducive to creativity which consequently spills over to the event itself. In Croatia, there are several fashion weeks, i.e. several periods during which our best or lesser known designers present their work. The Fashion Closet, however, is a ticket for those who have chosen design as their area of study at university. This is a legitimate way for them to travel further afield, including Europe. − So far, the Fashion Closet has taken several young winners to a few international competitions, including Nikola Barbir, Adela KliπkiÊ, Morana Kranjec, Matija »op, and last year’s winner Pavla AleksiÊ who was invited by the panel to apply at the Who’s Next Pret-a-porter Paris competition. She was one of the ten winners and she was given a chance to present herself in Paris. Isn’t that fantastic?” Professor Nina Reæek-Wilson takes this opportunity to thank all of the backstage staff who have been involved with the event for years and who have selflessly given it their love and energy. Without them, this would be impossible. 122
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− Since fashion is anything but a painless business, especially today when being in fashion is a very popular profession in Croatia and abroad, young designers have to fight 24 hours a day, says the professor. − Their road to success is made easier through exchanges with other universities, which I wholeheartedly encourage. It is all about experience. It is always a good idea to visit other countries and learn about new cultures, as this is a way for a young designer to broaden horizons and develop creativity. As part of its programme, the Fashion Closet offers shows by well known designers and former students of the School of Textile Design and Technology. This year, there will be shows by –enisa PecotiÊ, Emina Kuπan, Anamarija Ricov, Ivica KlariÊ, Ivan Badanjak and a guest from Budapest, Anna Vessey. Every time the Fashion Closet poster first appears on the notice board of the School of Textile Design and Technology, students embark on a new adventure. They are given the theme, but they are also given a lot of freedom to do what they want with it. The way they are going to show something depends largely on what they have learned, on the skills they possess but also on their talent. − Time and time again I am delighted by the level of creativity and the state of mind of our young people. Each of them has their own story, reasons, style and fashion instinct, says Nina. This is precisely what makes the world of fashion turn, this unbridled energy which gives rise to new things and ideas. ■
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■ SPORT SPORTS
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ilo je to 7. lipnja 1993. godine. Na autocesti kod njemaËkoga grada Ingolstadta u prometnoj nesreÊi poginuo je Draæen PetroviÊ, koπarkaπki Mozart. Vijest o pogibiji koπarkaπkog Mozarta uËas je obletjela svijet. Napustio nas je jedan od najveÊih koπarkaπa πto su ga Hrvatska, Europa i svijet ikad imali. Zbilo se to dan poπto je odigrao posljednju utakmicu u dresu hrvatske koπarkaπke reprezentacije, u Wroclawu, na kvalifikacijskom turniru za europsko prvenstvo. Vijest o pogibiji koπarkaπkog Mozarta uËas je obletjela svijet. A godina mu je bilo ni 29, taman toliko da smo od njega najbolje igre, ako je uopÊe moglo bolje, svi zajedno iπËekivali. A 7. lipnja 2006. godine u Zagrebu, u prizemlju Agrokorova poslovnog tornja, otvoren je Muzejsko∑memorijalni centar Draæena PetroviÊa. Otvoren je na temelju viπegodiπnjih napora njegova osnivaËa, Zaklade Draæena PetroviÊa. Na trgu koji nosi Draæenovo ime, pokraj koπarkaπke dvorane KK Cibone, vrelo je iz kojega se napojiti mogu svi - kako oni koji su imali povlasticu da æive u vrijeme kad je Draæen igrao koπarku, tako i mladost koju valja poduËiti πto sve moæe neslomljiv duh i sportski fanatizam. Klinci koji se ni rodili nisu kad je Draæen poginuo, dolaze ovamo i o Draæenu znaju sve. Jer, ono πto je iza sebe ostavio, viπe je od igre i ravno je legendi. Kroz muzej nas vodi Biserka PetroviÊ, predsjednica Upravnog odbora Zaklade Draæena PetroviÊa, Draæenova majka i ona koja je u
osnivanje Memorijalnog centra zacijelo uloæila ponajviπe truda i upornosti. Ona je i ta koja Ëesto doËekuje skupine aka, djece, pa im o Draæenu govori dok gledaju izloπke stalnog postava, ili filmove πto se emitiraju preko Ëetiri projektora na velikom zidu. A oni upijaju sve, pitaju sve i znaju sve, pa makar da su se na Draæenove majstorije navukli preko uspomena svojih roditelja, koπarke πto se igra na play stationu, ili preko snimaka na You tubeu. Iz Centra pak odu s naukom velikim koliko je i æivot velik. − Poruka je mladima da u æivotu mogu postiÊi sve ako æele. Ne moraju se baviti sportom, moæe to biti glazba, ekonomija, bilo πto, sve mogu postiÊi ako pred sebe postave cilj. To je jedna poruka, a druga je ona o Draæenu, koji je uvijek æelio prenijeti veselje na Ëovjeka. Po meni je to jaËe od svih medalja i trofeja, to πto je uvijek æelio usreÊiti Ëovjeka. Zbog toga je ova priËa, koliko je god teπka, i pozitivna − kaæe Biserka PetroviÊ. PriËa ispriËana kroz stalni postav muzeja poËinje baπ od poËetka − od ©ibenika gdje se djeËak roen 22. listopada 1964. godine ugledao u brata, pa dohvatio koπarkaπke lopte s pet i pol godina. I ta lopta, lopta koja je svuda iπla s Draæenom, i koju se nije smjelo dirati, danas je u muzeju, baπ kao i svjedodæbe osnovne πkole i diploma glazbene πkole, u kojoj je uËio svirati gitaru, koje svjedoËe da je bio odliËan ak. Gladan koπarke, napredovao je osobito brzo. Kao Ëetrnaestogodiπnjak zaigrao je u prvoj momËadi KK ©ibenka, koja je tad igrala u drugoj ligi. Ne navrπivπi 15 godina, igra u prvoj saveznoj ligi. Od 1979. na naranËastom
Da je još meu nama, košarkaški Mozart Dražen PetroviÊ 22. listopada proslavio bi svoj 49. roendan. Uspomena na ovoga sportskog
Piše/By Mate DeviÊ Fotografije/Photos Romeo Ibrišević
genija, Ëija je karijera bila veÊa od života, uopÊe ne blijedi, iako je od njegove tragiËne smrti veÊ prošlo više od 20 godina. If he were still with us, Mozart of basketball, Draæen PetroviÊ, would celebrate his 49th birthday on 22 October. The memories of this athletic genius, whose career was bigger than life, do not fade, even though more than 20 years have already passed since his tragic death. CROATIA AIRLINES
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dresu nosi broj Ëetiri, zazivaju ga nadimcima PeÊo i Naπ Mali, a ©ibenka s njim pamti svoje ponajveÊe klupske uspjehe. Biserka PetroviÊ lani je i stan u ©ibeniku pretvorila u odjeljak muzeja, da se vidi odakle je Draæen krenuo. Svi su trofeji vezani uza ©ibenik ovdje, djeËja je soba onakva kakva je i bila. Jedini uljez u djeËjoj sobi fotografija je proslavljenoga hrvatskog tenisaËa Gorana IvaniπeviÊa, koji je Wimbledon osvojen 2001. godine posvetio baπ Draæenu, i u Splitu, s tisuÊama navijaËa, svoju tenisku pobjedu proslavio baπ u Draæenovu dresu Netsa s brojem 3! Vitrine posjetitelja dalje vode kroz razdoblje kad Draæen dolazi u Zagreb, ljeti 1984. godine, kad, posljednjeg dana prijelaznog roka, potpisuje za KK Cibonu. Upisuje Pravni fakultet, igra zajedno s bratom Aleksandrom, a dres s brojem 10 dobro je zapamtila cijela Europa. Sezona je 1984/85., a Draæen s Cibonom osvaja prvenstvo i Kup Jugoslavije, kao i Kup europskih prvaka. Bilo je to razdoblje od Ëetiri godine, tijekom kojega se za utakmice KK Cibone traæila karta 126
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viπe. Koliko je pak Draæen bio omiljen, svjedoËe i izloæena pisma oboæavateljica, tek djeliÊ njih, od stotina pisama koja su mu dolazila. Izloπci nas vode dalje − do Madrida i koπarkaπkog kluba Real. Samo 365 dana bilo je dovoljno da mu se ©panjolci poklone do poda, da ga proglase Gigantom koπarke, da prvi na svijetu objave biografsku knjigu o Draæenu pod nazivom MeVida. Statistika tu govori viπe od rijeËi, primjerice ona o 62 koπa, koliko ih je dao Sneideru iz Caserte u finalu Kupa pobjednika kupova 1989. godine. A onda NBA! Teπka godina u Portland Trail Blazersima, kad mu ne daju igrati koliko zasluæuje, samo zato πto se igraËu pristiglom iz Europe tada nije vjerovalo. Draæen mijenja sredinu, odlazi u New Yersey Nets, a njegov dres s brojem 3 postaje relikvija. Netsi nikad nisu zaboravili Petra ili Dragona, kako su ga zvali, Ëovjeka koji im je bio i najbolji strijelac i najkorisniji igraË. Kako je to lijepo kazao velikan NBA koπarke, Nijemac Dirk Nowitzki, Draæen PetroviÊ je onaj
koji je otvorio put drugima i pokazao da najbolji europski igraËi mogu igrati u NBA-u. Posebna je pak priËa onaj dio reprezentativne Draæenove karijere, svjetska i europska prvenstva. O uspjesima, ali i njegovu promicanju Hrvatske, svjedoËe priznanja, medalje i fotografije, poput one nezaboravne, na kojoj je reprezentacija Hrvatske, koja se na Olimpijskim igrama u Barceloni okitila srebrom, i to nakon sraza s ameriËkim Dream Teamom. S jedne strane Draæen, KukoË, Raa, a s druge Jordan, Magic, Bird! Za svoja je dostignuÊa Draæen dobio najviπa olimpijska priznanja, Centenary Medal i The Olimpic Order, odlikovan je najviπim hrvatskim ordenima, 1995. godine izraen je i srebrnjak s njegovim likom, a iste te godine u parku Olimpijskog muzeja u Laussanei otkriven mu je spomenik, rad Vaska Lipovca. U koπarkaπku KuÊu slavnih u Springfieldu primljen je 27. rujna 2002. godine. Trofeja je joπ, baπ kao i priznanja iz cijeloga svijeta, bicikl na kojemu je jaËao noæne miπiÊe da moæe parirati NBA igraËima je tu, NBA statistika bolja od one Michaela Jordana takoer, no sve je to malo naspram njegove ljudske veliËine koja isijava iz svakog izloπka, iz svake slike. Uostalom, kaæe i njegova majka, nije to priËa samo o lopti. PriËa je to i o onome koji je uvijek govorio: jedan je posto talent, sve je ostalo rad! − Hvala Bogu πto se ovaj muzej otvorio, jer nije li povijest zapisana, nije se ni dogodila − kazuje Biserka PetroviÊ. A onda dodaje i istinu kako niπta, pa ni muzeja ni spomenika, ne bi trebalo da je sreÊe, i da Draæen tako naprasno nije od nas otiπao, da je danas tu, meu nama. Na æalost, nema ga, a godine lete, makar su sjeÊanja æiva. Dvadeseta godiπnjica Draæenova tragiËnog odlaska bit Êe obiljeæena na razliËite naËine, a Ëini se sve i da 22.listopada, na Draæenov
roendan, u Zagreb dou Brooklyn Netsi u sklopu europske turneje, πto Êe je NBA posvetiti obiljeæavanju 20. godina sjeÊanja na Draæena. Uspomena jednostavno ne blijedi, bilo da poput australskog pisca Todda Spehara, Draæenova oboæavatelja, piπete svoju knjigu o Draæenu, bilo da ste samo klinac koji je odluËio predahnuti u ©ibeniku baπ na spomeniku Kaæimira Hraste, klupi na kojoj sjedi Draæen. U taj Ëas, negdje potkraj naπeg razgledavanja, u muzej je uπao muškarac i kupio repliku dresa, onoga πto ga je Draæen nosio igrajuÊi za reprezentaciju Hrvatske. Kaæe, doÊi Êe i po onaj od Netsa pa ga odnijeti petnaestogodiπnjaku koji neizmjerno voli koπarku i Draæena, makar se ni rodio nije kad se 7. lipnja 1993. sat na Draæenovoj ruci naprasno i nepovratno zaustavio u 17 sati i 20 minuta. Sat je stao, ali priËa o koπarkaπkom geniju i njegovu djeËaËkom osmijehu, priËa o karijeri veÊoj od æivota, nadahnjuje i dalje. ■
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t happened on 7 June 1993. Draæen PetroviÊ died in a car crash on the highway near the German town of Ingolstadt. The news about the death of the Mozart of Basketball spread around the world in an instant. One of the greatest basketball players in Croatia, Europe and the world had left us. The story of his life has been told through the permanent
exhibition of the Draæen PetroviÊ Memorial Museum Centre in Zagreb. It was the day after the qualification tournament for the European Championship in Wroclaw, where he played his final game wearing the colours of the Croatian national basketball team. He was not even 29 years old yet, and all of us still expected the best matches from him, that is if his previous performances could have been outdone at all. It happened on 7 June 2006. The Draæen PetroviÊ Memorial Museum Centre was opened on the ground floor of the Agrokor business tower in Zagreb. It was opened owing to many years of effort by its founder, the Draæen PetroviÊ Foundation. At the square bearing Draæen’s name, near the Cibona Basketball Club Hall, there is a well from which everyone can quench their thirst − those who were privileged enough to live during the time when Draæen played basketball, as well as young people who must be taught what an unbreakable spirit and dedication to sports can do. Kids who were not even born when Draæen died come here and know everything about him! That is because what he left behind is more than a game; it is more like a legend! Our guide to the museum is Biserka PetroviÊ, the president of the Management Board of the
Draæen PetroviÊ Foundation, Draæen’s mother and the person who certainly invested the most effort and persistence into the establishment of the Memorial Centre. She is also the one who often meets groups of schoolchildren and tells them about Draæen while they look at the displays in the permanent exhibition or watch films screened by four projectors on a large
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wall. And, they absorb everything, ask and know everything, even though they became enchanted by Draæen’s skills only through their parents’ memories, through basketball played on PlayStation or through YouTube videos. They leave the centre with a lesson learned as big as life itself. ∑ The message to young people is that they can achieve anything in life if they want to. They don’t need to pursue sports, they can devote themselves to music, economy, whatever, but they can achieve anything if they set their minds on a goal. This is one message. The other message relates to Draæen, who always wanted to give people joy. In my opinion, this is greater than all the medals and trophies; the fact that he always wanted to make people happy. This is why his story, agonizing as it is, is also positive, says Biserka PetroviÊ. The story, told through the museum’s permanent exhibition, starts from the very beginning − in ©ibenik. A boy was born on 22 October 1964. He idolized his brother, and so grabbed a basketball at the age of five and a half. That basketball, which Draæen carried everywhere and nobody was allowed to touch, is at the museum today, as well as his elementary school report cards and the diploma from the music school where he learned to play the guitar, testifying to the fact that he was an excellent student. Hungry for basketball, he made rapid progress. At the age of 14, he played on the first team of the ©ibenka Basketball Club, which was in the second league at the time. Before he was 15, he had already played in the first national league. Already in 1979, he had worn the number four on his orange jersey and was nicknamed PeÊo and Our Boy, and ©ibenka had achieved its greatest successes with him. Last year, Biserka PetroviÊ converted the apartment in ©ibenik into a section of the museum, to 128
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show the place from where Draæen started his journey. All ©ibenik-related trophies are here, the children’s room is the way it always was. The only intruder in the children’s room is the photo of the famous Croatian tennis player Goran IvaniπeviÊ, who dedicated his victory at Wimbledon in 2001 to Draæen and, with thousands of fans in Split, celebrated his tennis triumph wearing Draæen’s Nets jersey with the number 3! Display cases guide the visitors further on, through the period when Draæen came to Zagreb in the summer of 1984 when, on the last day of the transfer period, he signed for the Cibona Basketball Club. He enrolled in the Faculty of Law, played together with his brother Aleksandar, and the jersey with the number 10 was etched in the memory of all of Europe. During the 1984/85 season Draæen won the Yugoslav Championship and Cup, as well as the European Champions’ Cup with Cibona. There was a four-year period during which Cibona’s games were sold out. Draæen had many fans and received hundreds of letters, some of which are displayed here, including fragments of letters from female admirers. The exhibits take us further − to Madrid and the basketball club Real. It took only 365 days for the Spaniards to bow before him, to proclaim him the Giant of Basketball, to be the first in the world to publish Draæen’s biography entitled MeVida. Statistics speak louder than words here, for example, the 62 points that he scored against Snaidero Caserta in the European Cup Winners’ Cup finals in 1989. And then the NBA! He had a hard year with the Portland Trail Blazers as he did not play as much as he deserved, merely because a player coming from Europe was not trusted then. Draæen changed his surroundings and joined the New Jersey Nets, and his jersey with the number 3 became a relic. The Nets never forgot Peter or Dragon, as they called him, the man who was both their best shooter and their most useful player. As the NBA basketball legend Dirk Nowitzki from Germany beautifully put it, Draæen PetroviÊ was the one to pave the way for others and show that Europe’s best players can play in the NBA. The story about Draæen’s career on the national team, namely during the World and European championships, is quite special. Awards, medals and photographs, such as the unforgettable one showing the Croatian national team wearing silver medals at the Olympics in Barcelona after challenging the American Dream Team, testify to his successes, as well as his efforts to promote Croatia. One team had Draæen, KukoË and Raa, and the other team had Jordan, Magic and Bird!
For his achievements, Draæen obtained the highest Olympic recognitions, the Centenary Medal and the Olympic Order. He was also awarded the highest Croatian national orders. In 1995, a silver coin with his image was created, and in the same year a monument in his honour was unveiled in the park of the Olympic Museum in Lausanne, the work of Vasko Lipovac. He was inducted into the Basketball Hall of Fame in Springfield on 27 September 2002. The exhibition has even more trophies, as well as awards from around the world, and the bicycle on which he strengthened his leg muscles so he could compete with the players in the NBA. You can also find statistics which exceed those of Michael Jordan, but all this fades in comparison to his human greatness which shines from every exhibit and every photo. After all, as his mother says, this is not merely a basketball story. This is the story of a man who always said − talent is only 1 percent, everything else is hard work! ∑ Thank God that this museum has been opened, because if history is not recorded, it’s like it never happened, says Biserka PetroviÊ. And then she truthfully adds that nothing would be necessary, neither the museum nor the monuments, if only we were more fortunate and Draæen had not left us so suddenly, if he remained here, among us. Sadly, he is gone, and the years fly by, although the memories are as alive as ever. The 20th anniversary of Draæen’s tragic departure will be marked in different ways, and all efforts are being made to bring the Brooklyn Nets to Zagreb as a part of their European tour which the NBA will dedicate to marking 20 years of remembering Draæen. Memories do not fade easily, whether you are like the Australian writer Todd Spehar, one of Draæen’s fans who is writing a book about Draæen, or you are just a kid in ©ibenik who decides to take a break and sit on the monument by Kaæimir Hraste, namely a sculpture of a bench with Draæen sitting on it. Just as we were ending our tour of the museum, a gentleman entered and bought a replica of a jersey, the same one Draæen wore when he played for the Croatian national team. He says he will come back for the Nets shirt and bring it to a 15 year old boy who adores basketball and Draæen, even though he was not even born when, on 7 June 1993, the watch on Draæen’s hand abruptly and irreversibly stopped at 5:20 p.m. The watch stopped, but the story of the basketball genius and his boyish smile, the story of his career which was larger than life, continues to inspire. ■
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■ TRADICIJA TRADITION
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ednom davno, dok su na zemlji joπ æivjeli divovi, hodao je neki Ëovjek obalom rijeke. Bio je sâm. Samo se vjetar poigravao oko njegovih ramena zalijeÊuÊi se povremeno meu stabljike trstike koja je rasla uz obalu. Odjednom se zaËuo Ëudan zvuk, drugaËiji od svih koje je do tada Ëuo. Tiπina pa opet zvuk. Tiπina ... pa opet. Svakim naletom vjetra zaËuo bi se zvuk koji je prestajao kako bi vjetar slabio. »ovjek se pribliæio trstici ne bi li otkrio kakav se to stvor glasa na tako Ëudan naËin. Nije vidio niπta, samo je jedna πuplja i napukla stabljika trstike strπala drugaËije od ostalih. Vjetar je ponovno puhnuo, trstika je zatitrala i zvuk se opet zaËuo. »ovjeku srce zaigra od veselja, uzme slomljenu trstiku i puhne ... Otad viπe nikad nije bio sâm. Bilo je to davno, veoma davno, joπ negdje u praskozorje ljudskoga roda, ali to druæenje izmeu vjetra, trstike i Ëovjeka traje do dana danaπnjega. Hr vatska je zbog svoga geopolitiËkog poloæaja osobito bogata narodnom tradicijom. StoljeÊima se na ovim prostorima mijeπala tradicija istoka i zapada s iskonskom tradicijom starosjedilaca te je nastalo osebujno i vrlo raznoliko tradicijsko bogatstvo. Osim opÊenitoga tradicijskog naslijea koje na ovaj ili onaj naËin postoji u veÊini hrvatskih krajeva, gotovo svaki kraj Hrvatske ima i svoje specifiËne, Ëesto i jedinstvene narodne obiËaje, noπnje, narodni govor, pjesme i plesove, a u svemu tome veliko i vaæno podruËje folklora zauzimaju hrvatska tradicijska glazbala. Zavirimo djelomice u taj Ëudesni svijet hrvatskih tradicijskih glazbala. Jedno od najstarijih glazbala ne samo u hrvatskoj tradiciji, nego i opÊenito ljudskog roda, jest diplica. Zovemo je joπ i baranjska diplica jer do naπih se dana zadræala u podruËjima Baranje i Slavonije, premda je nekad bila raπirena po gotovo svim krajevima u Hrvatskoj. To je vrlo jednostavna svirala od trstike, bazge ili stabljike raæi ili æita. Sastoji se od piska s jednostrukim udarnim jeziËkom i svirale s dvije, tri pa do pet rupica za prebiranje. Najstariji oblici diplica izraivani su tako da
se i pisak i svirala nalaze na jednome, istom komadu trstike ili slame. Upravo su takve svirale do prije stotinjak godina izraivali i u njih svirali na nekim jadranskim otocima, osobito na Olibu i Silbi, gdje bi prije æetve æene napravile po dvije takve svirale od stabljike raæi ili æita i, svirajuÊi u obje istodobno, iπle kroz selo u polje æeti æito. Te svirale od slame zvale su se sviroke. Od glazbala tipa diplica poslije su se razvila mnoga druga glazbala, razne vrste mihova i dipli, gajde, a u sviralu duda joπ se dandanas umeÊu po dvije diplice. Najsuvremenije glazbalo koje se razvilo upravo od diplica jest klarinet. Glazbala s mjeπinom zauzimaju veliki dio hrvatskih tradicijskih glazbala, a postoje joπ i danas, u gotovo svim krajevima. Ima ih najmanje desetak razliËitih varijanti, a spomenut Êemo samo nekoliko najosnovnijih i najraπirenijih. Ono πto je zajedniËko svim tim glazbalima jest mjeπina u koju se upuhuje zrak, koji zatim pod pritiskom izlazi kroz piskove u svirali i bordunu (kod gajdi i duda) te tako stvara zvuk. To je najËeπÊe πtavljena jareÊa, kozja ili ovËja mjeπina. Drugo zajedniËko obiljeæje jesu piskovi s jednostrukim udarnim jeziËkom, napravljeni od trstike ili bazge. Glazbala s mjeπinom veoma su stara, prema nekim procjenama i viπe od desetak tisuÊa godina, a mnogi istraæivaËi i etnomuzikolozi i danas tvrde da su dalmatinski mih i Ëetveroglasne i peteroglasne dude upravo naπ, autohtoni, hrvatski izum i da su ta glazbala nastala na ovim prostorima. Meu najstarija glazbala s mjeπinom ubraja se hercegovaËki mih koji se sastoji od πtavljene kozje mjeπine, puhaljke kojom se upuhuje zrak u mjeπinu, oglavine izrezbarene u obliku ljudskog lica i dvostruke svirale s dva piska od trstike ili bazge. Joπ su tu i ukrasni dijelovi, lijepo izrezbarena drvena rotaËka koja zatvara straænji kraj mjeπine i rogovi koji mogu biti drveni, kljove divlje svinje ili pravi rogovi divokoze. Svirala ima na obje strane isti broj rupica za prebiranje (najËeπÊe po
Gotovo svaki kraj Hrvatske ima i svoje specifiËne, Ëesto i jedinstvene narodne obiËaje, noπnje, narodni govor, pjesme i plesove, a u svemu tome veliko i vaæno podruËje folklora zauzimaju hrvatska tradicijska glazbala
Almost every area of Croatia has its own specific and often unique folk customs, costumes, language, songs and dances, and in all of these areas of folklore, the traditional Croatian instruments hold a great and important position.
Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos Stjepan VeËkoviÊ CROATIA AIRLINES
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πest) te prema tome pripada u najarhaiËnije oblike takvih svirala. Svirka na hercegovaËki mih neobiËna je i vrlo zanimljiva te joπ i danas privlaËi magiËnim prastarim zvukom. Jedno od donedavno najraπirenijih tradicijskih glazbala s mjeπinom jest dalmatinski mih (diple s mjeπinom), koji je po svemu gotovo identiËan hercegovaËkome, ali raspored je rupica na svirali drugaËiji. Dalmatinski mih s desne strane svirale ima πest rupica za prebiranje, a s lijeve dvije, πto je razlog sasvim drugaËijeg naËina sviranja i stvara moguÊnost velikog broja varijacija glazbenih tema. Dalmatinski se mih u raznim varijantama svirao na velikom podruËju od otoka Cresa i Krka preko cijele Dalmacije, otoka i Dalmatinske zagore pa sve do Dubrovnika i Konavala. U Istri se joπ i danas sviraju dvije vrste glazbala s mjeπinom. To su istarski mih i glazbalo zvano piva. Istarski je mih jednostavnijeg izgleda od dalmatinskoga i hercegovaËkoga. Nema toliko ukrasa, a ono πto ga svakako razlikuje jest specifiËan raspored rupica za prebiranje i osobita tehnika sviranja. Meu novija glazbala s mjeπinom pripadaju gajde i dude. Gajde se joπ i danas sviraju u Slavoniji i Baranji, a od mihova i dipli razlikuju se po tome πto imaju i bordun, koji tijekom svirke daje duboki osnovni ton. Takoer, za razliku od vrlo arhaiËnih mihova i dipli koji se koriste netemperiranim, starinskim ljestvicama, gajde su tonski temperirana glazbala. Svirala gajdi takoer je dvostruka, jedna je strana melodijska s pet rupica za prebiranje, a druga prateÊa ili ritmiËka sa samo jednom rupicom. Upravo zbog toga gajde su izrazito solistiËko glazbalo, jer istodobno mogu svirati i melodiju i ritam, a kad se tome doda i zvuk borduna, dobije se pravo bogatstvo harmonije. Dude su vrlo sliËne gajdama, ali se ipak razlikuju po broju piskova u svirali i tehnici sviranja. »etveroglasne dude u koje se nekada sviralo u Hrvatskom zagorju, Moslavini, na Bilogori i u okolici Zagreba imaju tri piska u svirali i jedan u bordunu, πto im daje veÊe tonske moguÊnosti nego gajdama. Peteroglasne ili podravske dude imaju Ëak Ëetiri piska u svirali i jedan u bordunu, πto i daje vrlo velike moguÊnosti kombinacija tonova i stvaranja harmonija. Takve dude u rukama pravih majstora zvuËe kao cijeli orkestar. SviraËi dipli, gajdi i duda uvijek su bili pomalo tajnoviti i neobiËni i u narodu su Ëesto govorili da se druæe s vilama. Kako god bilo, ljude je oduvijek fascinirala nihova moguÊnost da od tako jednostavnih i neobiËnih glazbala proizvedu takvo bogatstvo zvukova i melodija. Ovo je samo dio velikog bogatstva hrvatske glazbene tradicije. Osim svirala s jednostrukim udarnim jeziËkom bez mjeπine i s 132
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mjeπinama te svirala s dvostrukim jeziËkom od trstike, postoje i razne druge vrste glazbala kao πto su: labijalne svirale − jedinke, dvojnice, trojka, Ëetvorka, stranËica, sluπkinja, okarina, trstenice, gudaËa glazbala kao πto su lijerica i gusle, razne vrste æiËanih glazbala − tambura samica, dangubica, zatim trontulje, cimbal, razni rogovi i trube, djeËja glazbala i udaraljke i joπ mnoga druga glazbala. Danas starih, izvornih sviraËa gotovo viπe nema, ali, sreÊom, tisuÊljetna tradicija sviranja tih prastarih glazbala æivi i dalje zahvaljujuÊi mladim ljudima koji Ëak i u ovo doba interneta, facebooka, razliËitih suvremenih glazbala i elektroniËke glazbe nastoje oËuvati tradiciju svojih predaka. Ipak u zvuku tih glazbala ima neπto πto joπ dandanas na neki neobiËan naËin dira ljudska srca. ■
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nce upon a time, when giants lived on the Earth, a man was walking along a river bank. He was alone. Only the wind played around his shoulders, running here and there through the reeds that grew along the riverbank. Suddenly, he heard a strange sound, different from any other sound he had ever heard before. Silence, then the sound again. Silence, then the sound again. With every gust of wind, he would hear the sound, which stopped as the wind abated. The man approached the reeds to discover what creature made such strange sounds. He did not see anything, only one hollow, split reed stem that stood out from the rest. The wind blew again, the reed vibrated and he heard the sound again. The man’s heart was full of joy; he took the broken reed and blew into it. Since that time, he was never alone again. It was a long, long time ago, at the dawn of the human race, but this relationship between the wind, the reed and Man has lasted until today. Due to its geopolitical position, Croatia is exceptionally rich in terms of folk traditions. For centuries, the traditions of the East and West have mixed with the primal, indigenous traditions in this region and therefore a distinctive and very diverse traditional wealth has been created. Aside from the general traditional heritage that is in one way or another present in most parts of Croatia, almost every area of Croatia has its own specifi c and often unique folk customs, costumes, language, songs and dances, and in all of these areas of folklore, the traditional Croatian instruments hold a great and important position. Let us now take a peek at the wonderful world of traditional Croatian instruments. One of the oldest musical instruments, not only in Croatian traditions but for the human
race in general, is the double reed (diplica). We also call it the Baranja double reed because to this day it is more or less found only in the areas of Baranja and Slavonia, although it used to be found in almost all of the Croatian regions. It is a very simple pipe made of a reed, elder tree wood or a stalk of rye or wheat. It consists of a one-way valve and a pipe with two, three, or up to five holes for playing. The earliest forms of the double reed were made so that the valve and the pipe were on the same, single piece of reed or straw. Until a hundred years ago, precisely these kinds of pipes were made and played on some of the Adriatic islands, especially on Olib and Silba where, before the harvest, the women would each make two such pipes from the stalks of rye or wheat and play them both at the same time while passing through the village on the way to the fields to harvest the wheat. These straw pipes were called sviroka. In terms of musical instruments, the double reed is the forerunner to many other musical instruments, such as various types of bellows (mih), chanters (diple) and bagpipes (gajde), and a special type of bagpipe called the duda which still today is made up of two double reeds. The clarinet is the most modern musical instrument that developed directly from the double reed. Bagpipe instruments made of tanned skins represent a large part of the traditional Croatian instruments and they were, and sometimes even today, present in almost all of the regions. There are at least a dozen different varieties, but we will mention only a few of the basic and most widespread ones.
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The thing that all of these instruments have in common is the tanned skin into which air is blown, and then under pressure that air passes through the reeds into the pipe and the drone (in the gajde and duda), thus creating the sound. These are most often made of calf, goat or sheep skins. The other common characteristic is the one-way valve made of reed or elder tree wood. Instruments made of tanned skins are extremely old, and according to some estimates, they are more than ten thousand years old. Many researchers and ethnomusicologists today claim that the mih from Dalmatia and the four-part and fi ve-part dudas are specifically our indigenous, Croatian invention and that these instruments originated in this region. Among the oldest instruments made of tanned skins is the mih from Herzegovina which consists of tanned goatskin, a channel through which air is blown into the bag, a barrel that is carved with the shape of a human face, and a double pipe with two reeds made of reed or elder tree wood. There are even decorative elements, such as the beautifully carved wooden rotaËka which closes the rear opening of the skin bag, and horns that can be either wooden, the tusks of wild boar or real goat horns. The pipe has the same number of holes on both sides (usually six) and therefore it belongs to the most archaic form of these pipes. The pipe on the mih from Herzegovina is unusual and very interesting and even today attracts with its magical ancient sound. One of most widespread, until recently, traditional instruments made of skins is the mih from Dalmatia (or diple with bag) which is almost entirely identical to the mih from Herzegovina except that the location of the holes on the pipe is different. The mih from Dalmatia has six holes for playing on its right side and two holes on the left, which is the reason for playing it in an entirely different way and this creates the possibility for a large number of variations of musical themes. In various variants the mih from Dalmatia is played across a large area, from the islands of Cres and Krk, throughout all of Dalmatia, the islands and Dalmatian Zagora, and all the way to Dubrovnik and Konavle. In Istria, two types of instruments made of skins are still played today; the mih from Istria and the piva. The mih from Istria is simpler than those from Dalmatia or Herzegovina. It is not as ornate, and what certainly distinguishes it is the specific arrangement of the holes and the special technique of playing. Among the newer instruments made of skins are the gajde and duda. The gajde is still 134
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played today in Slavonia and Baranja, and it is different from the mih and diple because it has a drone which provides a deep fundamental tone when played. Also, unlike the very archaic mih and diple that use untempered, ancient scales, the gajde is a tempered tonal instrument. The gajde also has two pipes, one side is melodious with five holes for playing, and the other accompanying or rhythmic side has only one hole. This is precisely why the gajde is a distinctly solo instrument, because one can play the melody and rhythm at the same time, and when you add the sound of the drone you get a truly rich harmony. The duda is very similar to the gajde, but it differs in terms of the number of reeds in the pipe and the playing technique. The four-part duda, which was once played in Croatian Zagorje, Moslavina, Bilogora and the surroundings of Zagreb, has three reeds in the pipe and one in the drone which gives it more tonal options than the gajde has. The five-part duda or the duda from Podravina has as many as four reeds in the pipe and one in the drone which offers great possibilities to combine tones and create harmony. In the hands of a true master, this instrument sound like an entire orchestra. Musicians who play the diple, gajde and duda have always been a bit mysterious and peculiar, and people have often said that they mingle with fairies. Whatever the case, people have always been fascinated by their ability to produce such a wealth of sounds and melodies from such simple and unusual musical instruments. This is just a part of the wealth of the Croatian musical traditions. In addition to pipes with one-way valves without skins and with skins, as well as pipes with two-way valves made of reeds, there are various other types of instruments, such as: jedinka, dvojnice, trojka, Ëetvorka, stranËica, sluπkinja, okarina, trstenice, fiddles such as the ljerica and gusle, various types of other string instruments - tambura samica, dangubica, and the trontulje, the dulcimer, various horns and trumpets, children’s musical instruments and percussion instruments, and still many other instruments. Today, the old authentic musicians are practically gone, but luckily, the thousand year old tradition of playing these ancient instruments lives on thanks to the young people, who, even in this age of the Internet, Facebook, various modern instruments and electronic music have chosen to preserve the traditions of their ancestors. Even today, the sounds produced by these instruments still have something that in some unusual way touches people’s hearts. ■
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■ POZNATI U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU CELEBRITIES IN OUR AIRCRAFT Na ovogodiπnjim 64. dubrovaËkim ljetnim igrama Perica MartinoviÊ ostvarila je tri osobite dramske uloge, koje su joπ jednom iskazale njezinu umjetniËku snagu At this year’s 64th Dubrovnik Summer Festival, Perica MartinoviÊ played three exceptional dramatic roles, which again confirmed her artistic power. Piše/By Goran StojanoviÊ
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N. Duper
a letovima Croatia Airlinesa izmeu Zagreba i Dubrovnika, iz svoje zrakoplovne vizure, Perica MartinoviÊ, proslavljena glumica poznate dubrovaËke dramske loze, Ëesto voli promatrati eteriËna spajanja neba i zemlje, kopna i mora, plavoga i zelenoga. U komunikaciji je izravna i srdaËna, otvorena za razgovor kao i svaka druga osoba svjesna vlastite osobnosti i reda stvarnosti koja je okruæuje. Koliko Vas je Dubrovnik, a koliko obitelj odredila u æivotu? Mjesto roenja i roditelje ne moæemo birati. Imala sam sreÊu roditi se u Dubrovniku, koji je po sebi veliko kulturno ishodiπte. Ako se ovdje ne bavite umjetnoπÊu, onda je barem trebate (za)voljeti. Ovaj je Grad prostor prebogate proπlosti, koji bez dvoumljenja svoje naslijee nudi kao putokaz ostvarenih vizija. Ja sam odrasla s DubrovaËkim ljetnim igrama i kazaliπtem Marina DræiÊa. Moja je majka Lidija radila kao inspicijentica u kazaliπtu i na Igrama, a moj je otac Miπo MartinoviÊ bio godinama prvak i teatra i Igara. U to vrijeme, kada me kao dijete nije imao tko Ëuvati, ulazila sam u staro i prelijepo kazaliπte mojih roditelja, a taj miris, koji me onda omamio, do danas me ne napuπta. Nakon toliko godina glume i teatra i danas duboko osjeÊam da svoje æivotno zvanje ne bih mijenjala za neπto drugo. I danas bih izabrala isti put, istu cestu susreta sa sobom i svijetom koji me okruæuje. Koliko ste se prepoznali u novoj dramskoj koncepciji DubrovaËkih ljetnih igara? U poËetku æelim istaknuti da nam se ove godine dogodilo prelijepo otvaranje DubrovaËkih ljetnih igara u reæiji Kreπimira DolenËiÊa, sadaπnjeg intendanta, koji je sveËani Ëin podizanja zastave Libertas, osim u Dubrovniku, unio i u druge hrvatske gradove, jer sloboda je
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Foto/Photo Press DubrovaËkih ljetnih igara/The Dubrovnik Summer Festival Press service
uvijek djeljiva vrijednost za koju smo se izborili. Uvedena je i novost praÊenja svih dramskih predstava preko suvremene tehnologije, IT tableta i viπejeziËnih titlova, strani gosti mogli su se upoznati s hrvatskom modernom, u koju pripada i VojnoviÊev Ekvinocijo. Mudri DolenËiÊev potez iskazan je i u odluci o povratku toga velikog djela u dramski program Igara. Kako ste povezali svoju ulogu u povijesnom Ekvinociju s nastupima kroz druge suvremene tekstove? Ove godine nastupila sam u tri premijere, u Stullijevoj Kate Kapuralici, u VojnoviÊevom Ekvinociju koji je kao ambijentalna predstava s Ëetvero novih glumaca, nakon Ëetiri godine izbivanja, ponovno izveden na Lokrumu, te Allons enfants Boba JelËiÊa i Nataπe RajkoviÊ, djelo nazvano po prvom Ëinu VojnoviÊeve DubrovaËke trilogije, πto u prijevodu znaËi Ajmo djeco, a pomak je od VojnoviÊa, usmjeravajuÊi sadræaj na danaπnje vrijeme i danaπnje prilike. To posljednje djelo prikazali smo u gradskoj vijeÊnici, koja je teatarskoj priËi iskazala osjeÊaj danaπnjeg trenutka uronjenoga u univerzalne vrijednosti politiËkog diskursa vlasti. Jasna je to i zorna slika politike koja nam svima odreuje æivot. Koliko staæa imate u zraku i kako doæivljavate putovanje naπim zrakoplovima? Nebeski su prostori mjesta u kojima se dobro osjeÊam. Croatia Airlinesom letim od 1992. godine, posebice od Zagreba do Dubrovnika. Kako sam u stalnom angaæmanu u zagrebaËkom kazaliπtu Gavella, a obitelj mi je u Dubrovniku, vaπi zrakoplovi nebeske su ptice s kojima se i dvaput mjeseËno druæim. Let me inaËe odmara, a na relaciji Zagreb − Dubrovnik to je zacijelo najbræe i najkvalitetnije povezivanje glavnoga grada s juænim Jadranom. Pamtite li neki osobiti let ? Da, prije koju godinu, u zimskim mjesecima, zbog snaæne bure nismo mogli sletjeti u Dubrovniku, nego u Splitu. Meni se to Ëinilo kao mala avantura u kojoj se staloæeno i profesionalno iskazala vaπa posada i kabinsko osoblje. InaËe, ljubaznost vaπih posada uvijek je osjetno visoka. Volim putovati Croatia Airlinesom, tim viπe πto meu vaπom posadom imam i prijatelja. I za kraj, imate li kakvu poruku za sve nas koji smo Vas gledali i za sve one koji Êe Vas gledati u novim dramskim ostvarenjima? Mogu podijeliti samo osjeÊaj da je lako æivjeti sebe ako se æivi istina odmaknuta od strahova i oËekivanja okoline. Vjerujte u sebe i nebeske neprolazne vrijednosti koje se ne mogu novcem kupiti. I, svakako, i dalje sretni nam letovi Croatia Airlinesom! ■
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lying with Croatia Airlines between Zagreb and Dubrovnik, Perica MartinoviÊ, the celebrated actress from Dubrovnik’s exceptional family of drama artists, often likes to observe, from her midair perspective, the etheric union of the sky and earth, land and sea, blue and green. She is direct and warm in communication, open to exchange, like any person aware of her own specialness and the order of reality that surrounds her. How much did Dubrovnik define your life, and how much did your family? We cannot choose either the place where we are born or our parents. I was lucky to be born in Dubrovnik, which is itself a great cultural cradle. Here, if you don’t work in art, at least you must love it. This city is a place with a rich past, and it offers its heritage, without hesitation, as a signpost for achieving visions. I grew up with the Dubrovnik Summer Festival and the Marin DræiÊ Theatre. My mother Lidija worked as a stage manager at the theatre and the Festival, while my father, Miπe MartinoviÊ, was a leading actor at both the theatre and the Festival for years. During my childhood, when there was no one to babysit me, I would go into my parents’ ancient and beautiful theatre, and the scent, which intoxicated me then, has never left me. After so many years of acting and being in theatre, I still deeply feel that I would not trade my life’s profession for any other choice. I would choose the same way today, the same road where I meet myself and the world around me. How much did you recognize yourself in the new dramatic design of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival? First, I would like to stress that we had a magnifi cent opening ceremony for the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, directed by Kreπimir DolenËiÊ, our present general director, who brought the ceremonial act of raising the Libertas flag, besides in Dubrovnik, to other Croatian cities, since liberty is always a shareable value, for which we have fought and won. Another novelty was introduced, namely, the possibility to follow all the shows using the modern technology of IT tablets and multilingual subtitles. In this way, foreign visitors could get to know Croatian Modernism, which included VojnoviÊ’s Ekvinocijo (Equinox). Restoring this great piece to the drama program of the Festival was another one of DolenËiÊ’s wise moves. How did you connect your role in the historical piece, Ekvinocijo, with your roles in other contemporary pieces? This year I appeared in three premieres, in Stulli’s Kate Kapuralica, in VojnoviÊ’s Ekvino-
cijo (Equinox), which was an ambient show with four new actors, which after four years of absence was again staged on Lokrum, and in Allons Enfants by Bobo JelËiÊ and Nataπa RajkoviÊ, which is a dramatic work named after the first act of VojnoviÊ’s Dubrovnik Trilogy, and the title translates to Come on, Children. This is a shift with respect to VojnoviÊ, and the plot is focused on current times and current circumstances. The latter play was staged at the Dubrovnik City Council, which conferred the feeling of the present moment immersed in the universal values of the political discourse of power to the theatrical story. It is a clear and lucid picture of the politics which determine all of our lives. How long have you been flying and what is your experience of travelling aboard our airplanes? The skies are the place where I feel good. I’ve been flying with Croatia Airlines since 1992, particularly on the Zagreb − Dubrovnik route. Since I have a permanent engagement at the Gavella Theatre in Zagreb, and my family is in Dubrovnik, your airplanes are heavenly birds which keep me company twice a month. In general, flying relaxes me, and the Zagreb − Dubrovnik flights are certainly the fastest and the best connection between the capital and the southern Adriatic. Do you remember any particular flight? Yes, a few years ago, during winter, we could not land in Dubrovnik due to strong wind, and landed in Split instead. To me, it all seemed like a small adventure, and your crew and cabin staff proved to be composed and professional. Your crew is always exceptionally friendly. I like to travel with Croatia Airlines, all the more so since I have friends among your crew. Finally, do you have a message for all of us who have seen you or for those who will see you in new dramatic roles? I can only share my feeling that it is easy to live one’s life if you live the truth, away from the fears and expectations of the surroundings. Believe in yourself and the heavenly, eternal values which cannot be bought with money. And of course, may we all have many happy flights with Croatia Airlines! ■ CROATIA AIRLINES
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RUJAN Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 26.-29.9., Zagreb 9. INTERNACIONALNI FESTIVAL EKSPERIMENTALNOG FILMA I VIDEA /9 th INTERNATIONAL EXPERIMENTAL FILM AND VIDEO FESTIVAL Na festivalu koji prati najnoviju produkciju avangardnoga i eksperimentalnog filma moæete pogledati mnoge zanimljive filmove πto Êe ih predstaviti autori./At this festival, which follows the latest production of avant-garde and experimental films, many interesting films will be presented by their authors. www.25fps.hr Varaædin i okolica/Varaædin and surroundings 20.9.-3.10., Varaædin VARAÆDINSKE BAROKNE VE»ERI/VARAÆDIN BAROQUE EVENINGS OËekuju vas vrhunski koncerti na kojima renomirani hrvatski i inozemni ansambli izvode suvremene interpretacije baroknih glazbenih djela Bacha, Händla, Vivaldija…/You can look forward to superb concerts featuring renowned Croatian and international ensembles who will present contemporary interpretations of baroque musical pieces by Bach, Handle, Vivaldi... www.vbv.hr 20.-23.9., Lepoglava ME–UNARODNI FESTIVAL »IPKE/INTERNATIONAL LACE FESTIVAL Festival predstavlja vrijednost i ljepotu lepoglavske Ëipke - pravoga etnografskog blaga. Takoer moæete razgledati Ëipkarske radove iz susjednih europskih zemalja./This festival showcases the extremely valuable
and beautiful Lepoglava lace - a true ethnographic treasure. You can also view the lacework from neighbouring European countries. www.lepoglava-info.hr Pula i okolica/Pula and surroundings 7.9.-3-11., Buzet, Motovun, Livade DANI TARTUFA U ISTRI/ TRUFFLE DAYS IN ISTRIA Istarski bijeli tartuf, afrodizijak intenzivnoga i neponovljivog mirisa, jedan je od najcjenjenijih na svijetu, zri u jesen i najbolje je kuπati tu rijetku blagodat odmah u izvornom okruæju./The Istrian white truffle, an aphrodisiac with an intense and unique aroma, is one of the most highly appreciated in the world. This rare blessing ripens in the autumn when it is best to sample it in its original environment. www.istria-gourmet.com
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kraj rujna/end of September, Murter REGATA LATINSKO IDRO/LATIN SAIL REGATTA Na dan sv. Mihovila (29. rujna), zaπtitnika murterske æupe, odræava se regata tradicijskih brodova − leuta, gajeta i kaiÊa. Ruta regate prati teæaËke putove starih Murterana koji su svaki dan jedrili do svojih prekomorskih posjeda na Kornatima./A regatta of traditional boats − leut, gajeta and kaiÊ, takes place on the day of St. Michael (29 st of September), the patron of the parish of Murter. The regatta’s route follows the routes of the past generations of Murter’s farmers who sailed to their lands on Kornati on a daily basis. www.latinskoidro.hr LISTOPAD Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings
27.-29.9., Viæinada, Motovun, Istarske toplice 18. BICIKLISTI»KI MARATON PARENZANA/18th BICYCLE MARATHON PARENZANA Rekreativni biciklistiËki maraton svake godine okuplja sve viπe ljubitelja rekreativnog biciklizma iz Hrvatske i drugih europskih zemalja. OËekuju vas zanimljivi prigodni programi i druæenje./Every year this recreational bicycle marathon gathers more and more fans of recreational cycling from Croatia and other European countries. You can look forward to interesting programs and socializing. www.parenzana.com
* Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara This schedule is valid on August 30 th. Allow for change after this date.
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©ibenik i okolica/©ibenik and surroundings
11.-16.10., Zagreb ZAGREB KOM 8 U Hrvatskome glazbenom zavodu odræava se 8. zagrebaËki meunarodni festival komorne glazbe, na kojemu moæete posluπati vrhunske izvedbe./ You can listen to top class performances at Zagreb’s 8th International Chamber Music Festival which will be held at the Croatian Music Institute. www.zagreb-festival.org 20.-27.10., Zagreb ZAGREB FILM FESTIVAL Na festivalu moæete pogledati filmove koji nisu komercijalni, nego teæe umjetniËkim ostvarenjima i postaju hitovima. Projekcije filmova praÊene su i izvrsnim koncertima./At this festival you can watch films that are not necessarily commercial; still they have become recognized for their makers’ strife towards achieving the highest level of artistic creation. The film screenings are accompanied by excellent concerts. www.zagrebfilmfestival.com 25.-27.10, Zagreb CRTANI ROMANI ©OU 2013./ FUNNY COMICS SHOW 2013 I ove Êe se godine na meunarodnom festivalu stripa odræati izloæbe, predstavljanja domaÊih izdanja, razgovori s publikom, potpisivanja i crtanja za
publiku, projekcije filmova, tribine i dan besplatnih stripova./At this festival you can watch films that are not necessarily commercial; still they have become recognized for their makers’ strife towards achieving the highest level of artistic creation. The film screenings are accompanied by excellent concerts. www.crs-festival.com Varaædin i okolica/Varaædin and surroundings 14.-18.10, »akovec ASSITEJ »akovec ugoπÊuje kazaliπne glumce koji predstave posveÊuju najzahvalnijoj publici − djeci./»akovec hosts theatrical actors whose performances target the most grateful audience children. www.assitej.hr Sisak i okolica/Sisak and surroundings 4.-6.10., Hrvatska Kostajnica KESTENIJADA Moæete sudjelovati u berbi kestena i kuπati razliËita jela i slastice od kestena./You can participate in the chestnut harvest and taste different dishes and desserts made from chestnuts. www.hrvatska-kostajnica.hr GospiÊ i okolica/GospiÊ and surroundings 5. i/and 6.10., GospiÊ JESEN U LICI/AUTUMN IN LIKA Na ovoj vas manifestaciji, uz predstavljanje malih liËkih gospodarstava i poduzetnika, oËekuje i izloæba koja Êe vam prikazati karakteristiËne prehrambene, uporabne i ukrasne predmete. Izloæbu prate kulturno-umjetniËka druπtva koja Êe upotpuniti vaπ doæivljaj./In addition to the presentation of Lika’s small businesses and entrepreneurs, this event also includes an exhibition of
typical food, utensils and decorative items. The exhibition is accompanied by cultural and artistic associations whose performances will complete your experience. www.licko-senjska.hr Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 5.-13.10., Punat DANI MASLINA/OLIVE DAYS Na ovome se dogaanju krËkim gostima prezentira sva raskoπ kvalitetnog ploda masline. To je jedinstvane prilika da sudjelujete u berbi maslina i osjetite otoËku svakodnevicu./At this event the guests of Krk are presented with all the splendour of quality olives. This is a unique opportunity to participate in the olive harvest and experience the island’s everyday life. www.tzpunat.hr 11.-13.10., Lovran 19.-20.10., DobreÊ 26.-27.10., Liganj MARUNADA Lov r a n s k i m a r u n i j e d n a s u o d najkvalitetnijih vrsta kestena. Na Kvarneru Êe vam ponuditi tradicionalne peËene marune i razliËite slastice spravljene od kestena, uz koje moæete kuπati i kvalitetna domaÊa piÊa./Lovran’s chestnuts are among the highest quality chestnuts. In Kvarner, you will be offered traditional roasted chestnuts and various sweets made of chestnuts, along with which you can also taste quality local drinks. www.tz-lovran.hr
Zadar i okolica/Zadar and surroundings listopad, Zadar ZADAR MORE/ZADAR SEA Ovom manifestacijom slavi se tradicija æivota uz more. Izloæene su makete starih brodova, organizirane pjesniËke i glazbene veËeri, predstavljeni stari zanati./This event celebrates the tradition of living by the sea. There are models of old ships on display, poetry readings and music nights are organized as well as presentations of old crafts. www.tzzadar.hr 24.-27.10., Biograd BIOGRADSKI NAUTI»KI SAJAM/ BIOGRAD BOAT AND CHARTER SHOW Biogradski jesenski nautiËki sajam mjesto je gdje moæete dobiti informacije o plovidbi i dobro se zabaviti./The Biograd autumn boat show is a place where you can get information about navigation and have a good time. www.marinakornati.com STUDENI Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 11.11., Dugo Selo, Samobor, Sv. Ivan Zelina, Velika Gorica, Jastrebarsko MARTINJE U ZAGREBA»KOJ ÆUPANIJI/ST. MARTIN’S DAY IN ZAGREB COUNTY U studenome na Dan sv. Martina moπt se pretvara u vino. Popularno Martinje
obiËaj je koji je duboko ukorijenjen u tradiciju sjeverozapadnih krajeva Hrvatske pa se tako joπ i danas posebno obiljeæava u ZagrebaËkoj æupaniji./In November, on the Day of St. Martin, the must is turned into wine. The popular St. Martin custom is deeply rooted in the tradition of the northwestern regions of Croatia, so that even today it is still especially marked in Zagreb County. www.tz-samobor.hr Osijek i okolica/Osijek and surroundings 8.-29.11., BeliπÊe ROMBERGOVE GLAZBENE VE»ERI/ROMBERG MUSIC EVENINGS Dio svog djetinjstva Sigmund Romberg, jedan od znaËajnijih skladatelja s poËetka 20. st., proveo je u BeliπÊu pa se BeliπÊani i danas rado sjete svoga poznatog sugraana predstavljajuÊi amatersko kazaliπte./ Sigmund Romberg, one of the most important composers of the early 20th century, spent part of his childhood in BeliπÊe, and the people of BeliπÊe still gladly remember their famous fellow citizen by promoting amateur theatre. www.belisce.net
susret s barunom Trenkom i njegovim pandurima./The event takes place in front of the historic castle in Kutjevo and includes an enactment of Empress Maria Theresa’s visit to Kutjevo in 1741 and her encounter with Baron Trenk and his troopers. www.najboljeuhrvatskoj.info PROSINAC Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 4.12.2013.-1.1.2014., Zagreb ADVENT U ZAGREBU/ADVENT IN ZAGREBU Bogat kulturno-zabavni program i ove Êe se godine odræavati u sklopu te tradicionalne blagdanske manifestacije, koja se organizira u srcu Zagreba - na Trgu bana JelaËiÊa, kao i na ostalim trgovima i ulicama grada./The rich cultural and entertainment program will again this year be held in conjunction with the traditional holiday event, which is organized in the heart of Zagreb - on Ban JelaËiÊ Square, as well as on the other squares and streets of the city. www.adventzagreb.com
9.-10.11., Kutjevo PUTEVIMA PANDURA/ON THE TRAIL OF THE TRENK TROOPERS Manifestacija se odvija ispred povijesnog dvorca u Kutjevu i ukljuËuje povijesni prikaz posjeta carice Marije Terezije Kutjevu 1741. godine i njezin
Pružamo vam pravovremene informacije iz 2000 različitih medija u regiji upravo o onim temama koje su VAMA važne!
SIX CONTINENTS NEWS
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Press clipping, Florijana Andrašeca 14, Zagreb Domaćin 40. svjetskog kongresa clipping agencija Obratite nam se s povjerenjem:
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SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 142 NOVOSTI NEWS
146 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED 150 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 153 FLOTA FLEET 155 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 157 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB ZAGREB AIRPORT 158 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 160 ADRESE ADDRESSES
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CROATIA AIRLINES NOVOSTI UNITED AIRLINES − naš code-share partner od zimskog reda letenja 2013./14. Croatia Airlines i United Airlines u svibnju su potpisali ugovor o code-share suradnji. Uslijedio je Safety and Quality inspekcijski sastanak, a u srpnju smo upotpunili seriju priprema i sastanaka s kolegama iz United Airlinesa kako bismo proπirili suradnju uspostavom code-share letova na naπim rutama iz Zagreba u Amsterdam, Bruxelles, Pariz, Frankfurt, London, Müchen i Zürich te iz Dubrovnika i Splita u Frankfurt i München. Obavljeni su i radni sastanci o pripremama za testiranje IT sustava u svrhu automatizacije code-sharea kao i usuglaπavanje pravila u podruËju Customer Service Policy and Procedure. United Airlines postavit Êe svoje brojeve letova na naπe letove. Implementacija code-sharea planira se za poËetak zimskog reda letenja. United je drugi ameriËki prijevoznik s kojim uspostavljamo code-share suradnju. United Airlines jedan je od osnivaËa Star Alliancea i ubraja se u vodeÊe aviokompanije na svijetu.
CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS Ankica ©uvak, a zabiljeæena je na letu OU 668 iz Zagreba u Dubrovnik. Ovogodiπnji milijunti putnik zabiljeæen je otprilike u isto vrijeme kad i lani, a valja napomenuti da Croatia Airlines ove godine ljetni red letenja obavlja s jednim zrakoplovom manje nego lani. Sretnoj putnici darovali smo dvije besplatne povratne zrakoplovne karte za jedno od naπih odrediπta, a ZL Zagreb poklon-bon. Podsjetimo, od prvoga putniËkog leta 1991. godine do danas naπi su zrakoplovi obavili viπe od 450.000 letova, a prevezli ukupno 27,371.000 putnika.
ADVERTISING ON THE OVERHEAD LUGGAGE BINS WE TRANSFERED OUR ONE MILLIONTH PASSENGER
UNITED AIRLINES − our code-share partner since the winter 2013/14 timetable In May, Croatia Airlines and United Airlines signed an agreement regarding code-share cooperation. This was followed by a Safety and Quality inspection, and in July we concluded a series of preparations and meetings with colleagues from United Airlines in order to expand our cooperation by initially establishing code-share flights on our routes from Zagreb to Amsterdam, Brussels, Paris, Frankfurt, London, Munich and Zurich, and from Dubrovnik and Split to Frankfurt and Munich. A working meeting also took place to prepare for testing of the IT systems for the purpose of automation of the code-share, as well as harmonizing the guidelines in the area of Customer Service Policy and Procedure. United Airlines will put its flight numbers on our flights to and from Croatia and implementation of code share is planned for the beginning of the winter flight schedule. United Airlines is the second U.S. carrier with which we have established code-share cooperation. United is a founding member of the Star Alliance, and is among the world’s leading airlines. PREVEZLI SMO MILIJUNTOG PUTNIKA
Zabiljeæiili smo i naπega milijuntog putnika u ovoj godini. Ovogodiπnja je jubilarna putnica 142
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poËetku rujna oglaπavala se kartiËarska kuÊa Visa. Velike naljepnice s atraktivnim vizualom klijenta postavljaju se na Ëetiri pretinca za ruËnu prtljagu, a minimalno je razdoblje oglaπavanja u svim zrakoplovima naπe flote mjesec dana. Takvim naËinom oglaπavanja klijent dobiva specifiËan i vrlo atraktivan kanal oglaπavanja, koji mu jamËi vidljivost poruke πto je æeli poslati svojim potencijalnim i stalnim korisnicima proizvoda i usluga.
We have recorded the transfer of our one millionth passenger this year. This year’s jubilee passenger is Ankica ©uvak, and this took place on the flight OU 668 from Zagreb to Dubrovnik. This year’s millionth passenger was recorded at about the same time as last year, and it is worth mentioning that Croatia Airlines operated its summer ftimetable this year with one plane less than last year. The lucky passenger was awarded two free return airline tickets to one of our destinations, as well as a ZL Zagreb gift card. Let us remind you that since the first passenger flight in 1991 our airplanes have performed more than 450,000 flights, carrying a total of 27,371,000 passengers. OGLA©AVANJE NA PRETINCIMA ZA RU»NU PRTLJAGU
Æe lje li bismo vas obav ije stiti o novoj moguÊnosti oglaπavanja u naπim zrakoplovima. Kao πto vam je poznato, naπa kompanija nudi oglasni prostor u ovome putnom Ëasopisu, u redu letenja, u Supiju - Ëasopisu za djecu, nudi oglaπavanje na ekranima u zrakoplovima Airbus itd., a planira uvesti i neke nove kanale oglaπavanja. Naπ je Sektor marketinga 1. srpnja ove godine pokrenuo oglaπavanje na pretincima za ruËnu prtljagu u svim naπim zrakoplovima. Prvi nam je oglaπivaË bio mobilni operater Vipnet, koji se oglaπavao tijekom srpnja, a u kolovozu i u
We would like to inform you about the new advertising possibilities in our airplanes. As you already know, our company offers advertising space in this inflight magazine, in our timetable, in Supi − our children’s magazine, on the video screens in the Airbus airplanes, etc., and we plan to offer some new advertising channels. As of July 1st of this year, our Marketing Department has started advertising on the overhead luggage bins in all of our airplanes. Our first advertiser was the mobile operator Vipnet, which advertised during the month of July, and the credit card company Visa will advertise in August and the beginning of September. The clients place large stickers with attractive visual designs on four of the overhead bins, and one month is the minimum period for advertising in all of the airplanes in our fleet. This form of advertising offers the clients specific and very attractive advertising space which guarantees visibility of the message they want to send to the potential and current users of their products and services.
Available at all Tourist Information Offices, Cultural Institutions, Hotels, Travel Agencies, ...
Dubrovnik Card Special tourist discount card
Daily Card
3-day Card
Weekly Card
includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions & 24 h public transport rides
includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions & 10 public transport rides
includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions & 20 public transport rides
No charge for children up to 12 years old
No charge for children up to 12 years old
No charge for children up to 12 years old
ONLY
ONLY
ONLY
130,00 kn
180,00 kn
220,00 kn
Includes free entrance to: City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin DræiÊ, Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, DulËiÊ-Masle-Pulitika Gallery Includes: discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car discount, discounts on souvenirs, ...
www.dubrovnikcard.com CROATIA AIRLINES
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Miles & More Popunite i pošaljite / Complete and send off
Pristupnica − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia ili na fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200 Enrolment − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia or by fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200 0HR01
Molimo da napišete samo jednu adresu velikim, štampanim slovima / Please state only one address in capital letters Ime / Titula / Oslovljavanje / First or given name Title Salutation g / Mr. Dr. Ga / Mrs. Prof. Ulica i broj, zgrada / Street and number, building
Poštanski broj / Postcode
Datum roenja (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of birth (dd/mm/yyyy)
Prezime / Family name
Poštanski pretinac / PO Box
Grad / Town
Država / Country
Odjel (nije obavezno) / Department (optional)
Molimo Vas da unesete naziv kompanije (nije obavezno) / Please enter name of company here (optional)
E-mail-adresa (Molimo Vas da popunite ovo polje) / E-mail address (Please enter your e-mail address and check/mark the box below to receive account information via the Miles & More online newsletter!) Telefon / Telephone
Broj mobitela / Mobile number
+
+
Molimo Vas da velikim štampanim slovima popunite polja podacima o svom trenutnom letu / Please fill in your current flight details in capital letters Broj karte, etix®, ETKT (npr. 220 3000000474) / Ticket number, etix®, ETKT (e.g. 220 3000000474)
Br. leta (npr. LH 180) / Flight No. (e.g. LH 180)
Datum odlaska (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of departure (dd/mm/yyyy)
Ruta (npr. Frankfurt–Paris) / Route (e.g. Frankfurt–Paris)
Osoban odabir naËina komunikacije* / Personal communication preferences* Æelim primati sljedeÊe i slažem se da se moji osobni podaci koriste za: / I would like to receive the following communication and agree to the usage of my personal data for communication: Miles & More Online Newsletter/ Miles & More Online Newsletter
Miles & More ponude posebno za Vas / Miles & More offers especially for you
e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal
Informacije o proizvodima Lufthanse i ostalim Miles & More avio partnerima / Product information about Lufthansa and the Miles & More airline partners
e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal
Podaci o Vašem Miles & More raËunu i Miles & More newsletter mogu jedino biti poslani elektroniËkom poštom. NeÊete ih primiti poštom; bilo kako bilo, svoj raËun milja u bilo koje vrijeme možete vidjeti na miles-and-more.com / Miles & More account information is only sent via the Miles & More online newsletter. There is no separate mailing.; however, you can view your mileage account anytime at miles-and-more.com.
Odabirem jezik za komunikaciju / Preferred correspondence language:
NjemaËki / German
Engleski / English
Ovisno o državi koja se prikazuje u Vašoj adresi, moguÊe je da Êete moÊi odabrati jezik od njih nekoliko dodatnih. Jezik korespondencije može varirati ovisno o mediju. Kako biste provjerili svoj raËun ili ažurirali svoj profil, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com/myprofile. / Based on the country shown in your address, additional languages may be available for you to choose from. The language of correspondence may vary depending on the medium. To check your account status or to update your profile, please visit miles-and-more.com/myprofile. Sudjelovanje u frequent flyer progamu Miles and More je podložno Pravilima i Uvjetima. Kako biste proËitali trenutna Pravila i Uvjete, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com. Registracija u Miles & More programu je besplatna. / Participation in the Miles & More frequent flyer program is subject to the Terms & Conditions. To read the current Terms & Conditions, please visit miles-and-more.com. Registration in the Miles & More program is free of charge. * Imate pravo bilo kad povuÊi svoj pristanak, djelomiËno ili u cijelosti, tako da ažurirate svoj Miles & More profil online ili da nazovete Miles & More Servisni Centar na broj: 062 220 220 ili +49-69-66 10 23 30 10. Vaši dodatni komentari, za koje ne postoji predvien prostor, neÊe biti uzeti u obzir. / You have the right to revoke your consent at any time, inwhole or in part, by updating your Miles & More profile online or by calling the Miles & More Service Center at +49 - 69 - 66 10 23 30 10. Unfortunately all supplementary notes can not be considered.
Datum / Date
Potpis / Signature
Jednostavno je prijaviti se za Ëlanstvo: • preko interneta na web stranici www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • poπtom • telefaksom na broj +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 • kod osoblja u zrakoplovu Bit Êe nam zadovoljstvo ubiljeæiti Vam milje za trenutaËni let kao i za bilo koji drugi let koji ste ostvarili u posljednjih 6 mjeseci s Croatia Airlinesom, kompanijom Lufthansa ili nekim drugim partnerom u programu. Molimo Vas da gore unesete podatke o trenutaËnom letu. Retroaktivno ubiljeæavanje milja za druge letove moæete zatraæiti na stranici www.miles-and-more.com. Molimo Vas da uvijek Ëuvate originalnu kartu za ulazak u zrakoplov (boarding pass) i kopiju putne karte dok Vam se milje ne ubiljeæe na raËun.
It’s so easy to register: • Online at www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • By fax +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200
• By post • With one of your flight attendants
We will be happy to credit your account with the miles for this flight and for any other flights taken in the last 6 months with Croatia Airlines, Lufthansa or another Miles & More partner. Enter your current flight above. To have the miles for the other flights credited to your account, go to www.miles-and-more.com. Please retain your original boarding card and passenger receipt (copy of your ticket) until the miles have been credited to your account.
Razred putovanja/ Service class
Klasa knjiæenja/
Miles & More – veÊ sad poËnite prikupljati milje
Booking class
Broj leta/
Flight number
Broj karte/
Miles & More – start collecting miles now
Document number
LUFTPOST
Prostor za marku.
PAR AVION PRIORITAIRE
Please affix stamp here.
RÉPONSE PUBLICITAIRE/ANTWORT ALLEMAGNE Miles & More Postfach 14 34 33309 Gütersloh ALLEMAGNE
»im se poËnete koristiti svojom privremenom karticom Miles & More, milje Êe Vam se biljeæiti na raËun. Molimo Vas da pri svakoj rezervaciji navedete broj svoje kartice Miles & More. Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. Milje za danaπnji let bit Êe Vam ubiljeæene na raËun ako na prednju stranu unesete sve potrebne podatke o letu.
Ime/First name
Miles will start landing in your account immediately after you start to use your temporary Miles & More Card. Please remember to state your personal Miles & More number every time you make a reservation. You will receive your proper Miles & More Card once you have collected one mile.
Prezime/Surname
We will credit the miles for your current flight to your account once you have provided all the details of the current flight on the front.
Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. We will send you your regular Miles & More Card as soon as you have earned one mile.
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Miles & More
Kupujte eksluzivne proizvode u Lufthansa WorldShopu − od sada moguÊa dostava u Hrvatsku! Otkrijte naπ πiroki asortiman interesantnih proizvoda kao πto su putne torbe i koferi, dodatna oprema, elektroniËki ureaji i ostali nezaobilazni proizvodi za putovanje i kuÊu. Posjetite nas na www.worldshop.eu ili u naπim duÊanima u zraËnim lukama. Moæete plaÊati gotovinom ili kreditnim karticama te Miles & More nagradnim miljama, a moguÊe je i kombinirati ova dva naËina plaÊanja. Shop for exclusive products at Lufthansa WorldShop − now available for delivery to Croatia! Discover our wide assortment of interesting products such as luggage, accessories, electronics, and other must-haves for on the move or at home. Visit us at www.worldshop.eu or in our airport shops. Available for purchase with cash or credit card, redeemable for Miles & More award miles, or a combination of both.
Osnove Miles & More programa
Introducing Miles & More
Miles & More najveÊi je program nagraivanja putnika u Europi i nudi Ëlanovima ra zliËite moguÊnosti prikupljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih par tnera u programu. Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija par tnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kar tica Miles & More.
Miles & More is the greatest frequent flyer programme in Europe offering its members numerous possibilities for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many attractive privileges. Members collect miles by using the services of many partners in the programme. Miles are credited for flights of all Star Alliance members and other airline partners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car partners or staying in participating hotels.
Zatra æite svoju Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditnu kar ticu! n 5 kuna = 1 milja - za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko ove kar tice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja n Dvos truke milje - osvajate za plaÊanje turistiË kih aranæmana i zrakoplovnih karata u Diners Club Travelu n Prikup ljajte nagrad ne milje svuda - jed nostav no plaÊajte svojom Diners Club kar ticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu.
Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card! n 5 HRK = 1 mile - for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile. n Earn double miles - for paying package tours and flight tickets at Diners Club Travel n Collect award miles everywhere - simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC offices in Croatia or abroad
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Osvojite joπ viπe milja - koriπtenje ostalih pogodnosti Diners Cluba poput besplatnih online usluga, e-plaÊanja ili trajnih naloga donosi vam dodatne milje. n 2 kar tice - 1 ra Ëun Miles & More - koristite li se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom kar ticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More.
Collect extra award miles - by using other Diners Club benefits, such as free online services, internet banking and e-paying, standing orders etc. n 2 credit cards - 1 Miles & More membership account - use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account.
n
n
Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu! Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club objavili su, osim companion kreditnih karica (poslovnih i privatnih), i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potroπnja od 14 kuna na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paru 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.
Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card! Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club have issued, besides a companion credit card (both business and private), a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.
Zatraæite svoju Croatia Airlines American Express kreditnu kar ticu! n 4 kune = 1 nagradna milja - za svake 4 kune potroπene preko Premium kar tice biljeæi se 1 nagradna milja, odnosno za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko Standard kar tice n 2500 milja dobrodoπlice - za nove osnovne Premium korisnike i 1250 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Premium korisnike n 1500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard korisnike i 750 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Standard korisnike n Dvostruke nagradne milje - za potroπnju u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i Jumbo Travel Ser vices PBZ Carda n UËlanjenje u Priority Pass bez naknade te pristup u viπe od 450 VIP salona u zraËnim lukama
Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express credit card! n 4 HRK = 1 award mile - for every 4 HRK spent via Premium card, you collect 1 award mile, and for every 5 HRK spent via Standard card you collect 1 mile. n 2.500 welcome miles - for new basic Premium card users and 1.250 welcome miles for new additional Premium card users. n 1.500 welcome miles - for new basic Standard card users and 750 welcome miles for new additional Standard card users. n Earn double award miles - using the card to pay for travels at Croatia Airlines sales offices and Jumbo Travel Services of PBZ Card. n Free Priority Pass enrollment- it enables you to access into more than 450 VIP airport lounges
Razredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti Koriπtenjem usluga par tnera u programu prikupljate nagradne milje koje zamjenjujete za nagrade i statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status i pogodnosti πto ih ostvarujete. Statusne milje prikupljaju se redovitim letovima sljedeÊih zrakoplovnih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Lufthansa Regional i Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS i svi zrakoplovni partneri iz mreæe Star Alliance, Air Dolomiti i Luxair. Svaka tako ostvarena milja biljeæi se i kao statusna i kao nagradna milja. Milje HON Circle statusne su milje koje se prikupljaju letovima sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Austrian Air lines, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Luf thansa Regional i Luf thansa Private Jet), Luxair i Swiss International Airlines. Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendarskoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller, a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini oËe ku je vas status Se nator. »la novi koji priku pe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u ra zdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalendarske godine, stjeËu status HON Circle.
Tiers and benefits By using the Miles & More partners’ services members collect award miles, which are traded in for awards; and status miles, which determine a member’s membership status and privileges. Status miles can be accrued on scheduled flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, all Star Alliance partners, Air Dolomiti and Luxair. Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status and an award mile. HON Circle miles are status miles that you collect on flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), Luxair and Swiss International Airlines. With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year members earn the Frequent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, earn the HON Circle status.
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Pogodnosti statusa Frequent Traveller - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja na zaista prijeeni ili standardni iznos za letove sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Lufthansa Regional i Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Airways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair i Continental. - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - uporaba Lufthansa Business Class Loungea prilikom letova s nekom od Ëlanica Star Alliancea - prednost na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog razreda - 40 kg prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji Ako je rijeË o komadnom prijevozu prtljage, 2 komada u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu, a 3 u prvom razredu putovanja
Frequent Traveller privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent on the actual flown miles or standard mileage amounts on flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Airways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair and Continental. - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Use of the Lufthansa Business Class Lounges while flying with a Star Alliance Member - Waiting list priority - Check-in at the Lufthansa Business Class counter - Free baggage allowance of 40 kg depending on the destination and the airline If piece concept is applicable 2 bags in total (Economy or Business) and 3 bags in the First Class
Pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - predujam od 50.000 milja - uporaba Lufthansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold Lounge partnera u Star Allianceu - viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog razreda - osigurano mjesto na letu za rezervacije do 48 sati odnosno do 72 sata unaprijed, ovisno o razredu putovanja - 50 posto manje milja za suputnika na nagradnom letu, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dodatnih 20 kg ili dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonomskom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu - šest e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade), te dva vauËera prilikom svake obnove statusa. - Senator Premium Award
Senator privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - 50,000 miles in advance - Access to the Lufthansa Senator Lounge as well as to the Star Gold Lounges of Star Alliance partners - High waiting list priority - First Class check-in - Booking guarantee up to 48 or 72 hours in advance depending on the booking class - A 50 per cent mile age discount for an accompanying per son on fl ig ht awar ds depending on the airline - Ad di ti o nal 20 kg bag ga ge al lowan ce or an addi ti o nal bag depending on the destination and the airline - Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and 4 in the First Class - 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers and two e-vouchers each time the status is renewed. - Senator Premium Award
Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle - sve pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus od 25 posto - predujam od 100.000 milja - Status Senator za supruænika ili partnera, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - šest e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade) te šest prilikom zadržavanja statusa - dodatne pogodnosti koje nude partneri programa osiguravajuÊi jedinstveno iskustvo putovanja - komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonomskom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu
HON Circle privileges - All existing Senator privileges - Executive bonus of 25 per cent - 100,000 miles in advance - Senator status for your spouse or partner depending on the airline - 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers and 6 every time the status is renewed - Additional benefits offered by Miles & More partners, rounding off the travel experience - Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and 4 in the First Class
Troπite milje Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge nagrade: nagradne karte, premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), razliËite nagrade kojima se moæete koristiti pri putovanju (hotelski smjeπtaj, unajmljivanje vozila). Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com
Spend miles You can exchange collected award miles for awards prepared for you: award tickets, upgrades, various travel awards. You can find more at: www.miles-and-more.com
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U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU RED SJEDENJA Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo. RU»NA PRTLJAGA
PO©TOVANI PUTNICI! Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima. Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr
Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije.
Sva Ëekirana prtljaga mora imati putnikovo ime. Besplatne oznake za prtljagu mogu se dobiti u svim prodajnim uredima Croatia Airlinesa. Oznaku za prtljagu stavite i unutar prtljage. Sve vrijedne stvari i predmete nosite sa sobom u zrakoplov. Osobnu ruËnu prtljagu odloæite iznad svojeg sjedala ili ispod njega, tako da teæi komadi idu ispod, a lakπi iznad, a da istodobno ne smeta drugim putnicima i posadi zrakoplova. UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima. PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja. Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta.
mogu se rabiti sve vrijeme: sluπni aparati, ugraeni medicinski aparati, elektroniËki satovi, elektroniËki stimulatori æivaca. ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva. USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U zrakoplovu raspolaæemo razliËitim vrstama alkoholnih i bezalkoholnih piÊa, kojima Êe vas stjuardese posluæiti zajedno s jelom. Prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed, moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka (oznaka: SPML), kao npr. vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed. Ako ste naruËili poseban obrok, molimo vas da o tome na vrijeme izvijestite osoblje. Putnicima nije dopušteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Osoblje zrakoplova neÊe posluæiti alkoholna piÊa alkoholiziranim putnicima. Prije slijetanja osoblje Êe ukloniti sve πalice i Ëaπe. Puπenje nije dopuπteno tijekom cijelog leta, a u toaletima postoje i detektori za dim, koji se aktiviraju u sluËaju puπenja. MEDICINSKA POMOΔ U zrakoplovu imamo priruËnu ljekarnu sa svim potrebnim lijekovima za prvu pomoÊ (s lijekovima protiv bolova, flasterima i ostalim osnovnim medicinskim sredstvima). Za medicinsku pomoÊ obratite se kabinskom osoblju.
UPORABA TELEFONSKIH NAPRAVA UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi.
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Sadaπnje odredbe zabranjuju uporabu odreenih prenosivih elektroniËkih naprava tijekom komercijalnih letova, zbog moguÊnosti ometanja navigacijske i komunikacijske opreme. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa zabranjena je uporaba ovih elektroniËkih naprava: prijenosnih telefona, komercijalnih dvovalnih prijenosnika (npr. walkie talkie); amaterskih prijenosnih ureaja; CB prijenosnih ureaja: prijenosnih ureaja koji emitiraju RF energiju na odreenoj frekvenciji, perifernih ureaja za raËunala ili igre. Ovi se ureaji mogu rabiti kad zrakoplov nije na pisti, uzletu, poËetnom penjanju, prilazu ili fazama slijetanja: osobna raËunala (periferni ureaji kao πto su πtampaËi, vanjski disc driveovi itd. nisu dopuπteni); osobna raËunala s igrama, VHF skenerski prijamnici; CD diskovi; kasetofoni, videorekorderi; kalkulatori. SljedeÊi ureaji
SKY - SHOP U avionu moæete kupiti bescarinsku robu. Roba se moæe platiti u sljedeÊim konvertibilnim valutama: euro, ameriËki dolar, funta, πvicarski franak i u nacionalnoj valuti kunama, te sljedeÊim karticama: Diners, Visa, American Express i EuroMaster Card. Zbog teæine aviona ili trenutaËnog nedostatka prostora ponuda moæe biti ograniËena, pa vas molimo da to uzmete u obzir. ■ DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our first and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken
ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests. With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services. Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inflight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr Please read the instructions below, impor-tant for your safety and comfort during the flight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your flight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.
Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the flight. USE OF ELECTRONIC DEVICES Current regulations prohibit the use of certain types of portable electronic devices (PFDs) on board commercial flights, due to potential interference with navigational and communications equipment. On Croatia Airlines’ flights it is prohibited to use the following electronic devices: cellular telephones,
firearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers. SERVICE ON BOARD Both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are available on board and are served with your meal. If you wish to order a special kind of meal such as vegeterian, dietary etc., you can do so when buying your ticket but must be 24 hours in advance. Kosher meals should be ordered 48 hours in advance. Make sure that your flight attendant is aware that you have ordered a special meal. Passengers are prohibited from consuming their own alcoholic beverages on board.
In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking flights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in. SEAT ASSIGNMENT Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing. BAGGAGE All checked-in baggage must have the passen-ger’s name on the outside. Free identification cards are available at all OU ticket offices. We suggest that you place an identification tag inside your luggage as well. Carry all valuable and important items with you on the plane. Hand luggage must be stowed under the passenger seat or in the overhead compartment - heavy pieces below and lighter above the seat - in a way not to disturb other passengers or the cabin crew. SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole flight.
commercial two-way transmitters (e. g., walkie-talkies); amateur radio transmitters; Citizen Band (CB) transmitters; 49-MHz transmitters, devices designed to radiate RF energy on a specific frequency; peripheral devices for computers or computer games. The following devices may be used when the aircraft is not in the taxiing, take-off, initial climb, approach or landing phases: personal computers (cable-connected peripheral devices such as printers, external disc drives, etc. are not permitted); personal computer games, VHS scanner receivers; compact disc players; cassette tape players; video recorders; calculators. The following may be operated at all times: hearing aids, implanted medical devices, electronic watches, electronic nerve stimulators.
The cabin crew are instructed to discontinue ser-ving passengers who appear to be intoxicated. All cups and glasses will be removed from the passenger areas prior to take-off and landing. Smoking is not permitted on any of Croatia Airlines’ flights. A fresh air vent and smoke detectors are located in toilletes and will be activated if smoking.
MEDICAL AID Painkillers, Band Aid and other essential medical items are kept on the aircraft. Ask your flight attendant should you need any assistance. SKY SHOP
RESTRICTED ITEMS The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage. Such items are: explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons,
Duty free goods can be paid for in major currencies such as: Euro, US Dollar, British Pounds, Swiss Franks and national currency Kuna, whilst Diners, Visa, American Express and Euro-Master Card are also welcome. ■ CROATIA AIRLINES
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Star Alliance Navigator for iPad lets me plan routes, check my flight status and visualise my journeys around the world. So now Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m always linked in to every detail of my trip.
Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve earned it.
Nicole German, Head of Marketing for LinkedIn Canada and Latin America, and Star Alliance Gold Status.
Star Alliance Navigator for iPad
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FLOTA
FLEET Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.
Specifikacije / Specifications
Airbus A320-200
Airbus A319-100
Dash8 - Q400
Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)
34,1 / 111
34,1 / 111
28,42 / 93,24
Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)
37,6 / 123
33,84 / 111
32,83 / 107,71
NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)
73 500
70 000
29 257
NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)
11 920 / 39 100
11 900 / 39 000
7620 / 25 000
Povrπina krila / Wing area (m /ft )
122,40 / 1318
122,40 / 1318
63,08 / 679
NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)
834 (450 KTS)
834 (450 KTS)
667 (360 KTS)
Pogonska grupa / Power-plants
motori / engines x 2 CFM 56
motori / engines x 2 CFM 56
motori / engines x 2 PW 150A
Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet
3
4
6
Broj sjedala / Number of seats
162/164
144
76
2
2
Airbus 320-200
Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta. One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.
Airbus 319-100
Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta. One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.
Dash 8-Q400
Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta. One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking. CROATIA AIRLINES
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ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA
A MAP OF DESTINATIONS
USA CHARLOTTE NEW YORK PHILADELPHIA WASHINGTON
BERGEN
St. Petersburg STAVANGER
Aberdeen Edinburg Belfast Dublin
Manchester
VILNIUS GDANSK
POZNAN
KASSEL
Chisinau LYON
Turin
Porto
VENICE
Genoa Madrid
RIJEKA
OSIJEK BELGRADE Bucharest
BRA»
BARCELONA
Podgorica Bari
Palermo Catania
ATHENS
TEL AVIV Q u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama
Q linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines’ services
in cooperation with partner airline
Partneri / Partners:
Brussels Airlines
US Airways CROATIA AIRLINES
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DOŽIVITE PREMIUM UGODNIJE, JEDNOSTAVNIJE I DISKRETNIJE PUTOVANJE ENJO OY MORE PLEA ASANT, SIMPLE & DIISCRETE E TR RAVE EL EX XPERIEN NCE E
airport
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Tel. 00385 1 4562 354 premium.club@zagreb-airport.hr
ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB
ZAGREB AIRPORT
5
4
4
Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21
International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci
2 Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7
P
Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike
1
C
i
Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima
Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci
D
D
P C
Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A”
A
Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”
B
N
i S B
Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte
S
3
TAKSI BUS
CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima
1
Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac
2
V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije
3
Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba
4
Restaurant Faust VranËi Ê
5
Panoramic View Panoramski pogled
A
Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila
Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica
B
Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica
Coffee Bar Kavana
C
Customs Control Carinska kontrola
Bar
D
Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina
Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks)
N
Newstand Novinarnica
Baggage Prtljaga
P
Passport Control Kontrola putovnica
S
Shops Prodavaonice
i i
Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.
AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES
Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.
5.00 9.00 13.30 17.30
U DUBROVNIKU autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 75 minuta prije leta. Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova.
ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 8.00 8.30 9.00 9.30 10.30 11.30 12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30 14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30 16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30 18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30 20.00
In DUBROVNIK airport buses leave 90 minutes before the flight, and in ZADAR 75 minutes before the flight. The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing. Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) - Zagreb (zraËna luka) - Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) Rijeka - Polazak u 15.30 sati.
Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) - Zagreb Airport - Departure at 5.00. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport - Rijeka - Departure at 15.30.
Flight Information Informacije o letovima Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije
ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb: Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb: 5.30 10.00 14.00 18.00
6.00 10.30 14.30 18.30
6.30 11.00 15.00 19.00
7.00 11.30 15.30 19.30
7.30 12.00 16.00 20.00
8.00 12.30 16.30
8.30 13.00 17.00
Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, 098 472-539, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn. The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas. Autobusi iz ZAGREBA polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova. Bus departures in ZAGREB are an hour and a half prior for domestic flights and two hours prior for international flights.
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ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI?
WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL? Dragi putnici!
Maja RašiÊ
Zahvaljujemo na prekrasnim fotografijama koje ste nam poslali i kojima nam pokazujete ljepote svijeta. Svako godiπnje doba ima svoje prednosti, a jesen je osobita po svojim πarenim bojama. Pozivamo vas da nam fotografijom pokaæete zanimljivosti koje ste zapazili. Autora fotografije Marka BubiÊa odabrali smo kao najboljega u ovome broju te ga nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa. Promidžbenim poklon-paketom nagradit Êemo Maju RaπiÊ i Vanju HederiÊ. ©aljite nam i dalje svoje fotografije jer vas i u iduÊem broju oËekuju vrijedne nagrade.
Cijeli je svijet igraliπte. The whole world is a playground.
Dear passengers!
Vanja HederiÊ
We are grateful for all the wonderful photographs you sent us in which you showed us the beauty of the world. Every season of the year has its advantages, and the autumn is special for its amazing colours. We invite you to show us photos of the interesting things that you have noticed. We have chosen Marko BubiÊ as the author of the best photo in this issue and we are awarding him with two return tickets on Croatia Airlines. The winners of the promotional gift packages are Maja RaπiÊ and Vanja HederiÊ. Please continue to send us your photographs because you can also expect valuable prizes in our next issue.
Marko BubiÊ
Za πto viπe ovako neobiËnih prizora! For even more spectacular views like this one!
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Sva Ëarolija ljudskog duha otkriva se pred tobom, zato volim putovanja. I love to travel because of the magic of the human spirit that unfolds before you!
IT IS ALL WITHIN YOUR REACH AIRPORT PULA
SO MANY ROUTES TO ONE SOLE DESTINATION
PULA AIRPORT LTD Li탑njan, Valtursko polje 210, p.o.b.89 52100 Pula - Croatia Tel.: +385 52 530 105 Fax. +385 52 550 914
THE GATEWAY TO THE ISTRIAN OASIS
E-mail: operations@airport-pula.hr www.airport-pula.com
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ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 616-01-53 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/ugd@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 062-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 *500 za pozive iz mobilne mreže Hrvatske pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 18:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept. Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 062 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Brojevi telefonskog check-ina / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam WTC, Tower B, Level 4, Schiphol Boulevard 207, 1118 BH Luchthaven Schiphol Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Fax (+31-20) 316-42-81 amsto@croatiaairlines.hr Bruxelles Brussels Airport Box 31, 1930 Zaventem Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik ZraËna luka, Airport Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, 60 313 Frankfurt, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London Room 332 Concorde House,North Wing, Perimeter Road, Gatwick Airport West Sussex RH6 0DW Tel. (+44-20) 8563-00-22, 0844 3710 310 (UK only) Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615 Airport Heathrow, Room 531, Terminal 1, Zone H Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-46-83 Fax (+44-20) 8754-73-77 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr
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ADDRESSES München Terminal 2, Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Büro B.4.1322, 85 356 München, Tel. (+49-89) 97-592-730/731 Fax (+49-89) 97-592-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr Paris Roissypôle, Le Dôme 1, 3th floor Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France 95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-4000 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-5511 parto@croatiaairlines.hr Pula ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-52) 218-909 (+385-52) 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5, 51 000 Rijeka, Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma ZraËna luka, Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci Torre Uffici 2, Room 518 00054 Fiumicino Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo ZraËna luka Sarajevo, Airport Khurta Schorka 36, 71 210 Sarajevo, Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skoplje Skopje Airport, Alexander The Great, 1043 Petrovec Macedonia Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 2561 850 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split Obala hrv. nar. preporoda 9, 21 000 Split, Tel. (+385-21) 362-997, 362-055 (komercijala) Fax (+385-21) 362-567 sputo@croatiaairlines.hr ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb Zrinjevac 17, 10 000 Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 48-19-633 Fax (+385-1) 48-19-632 ZraËna luka Zagreb, Zagreb Airport, 10 150 Zagreb, Pleso Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-585 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Zürich Limmatquai 138, 8001 Zürich, Tel. (+41-44) 261-08-40 Fax (+41-44) 261-08-83 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe »eπka CK Blue Sky Travel Na Perštýne 1, 11 000 Opletalova 57 Tel. (+420-2) 2222-2235 Fax (+420-2) 2222-0237
GrËka / Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str. 105 57 Athens, Greece Tel. (+30-210) 32-17-679, 32-17-750 Fax (+30-210) 32-49-152 Kosovo Airtour Head Office: St. Bill Clinton 32 10031 Prishtina, Kosovo Tel. (+381-38) 233-833 Fax (+381-38) 245-845 Airport Office: Prishtina International Airport Tel. (+381-38) 594-111 Fax (+381-38) 594-222 Portugal / Lisbon ATR - Actividades Turisticas e Representações Edifício ES Viagens, Av. D. João II, Lote 1.16.1 - 7º em,1990-083 Lisbon Tel: +351 21 761 89 81 Fax: +351 21 425 24 12 croatiaairlines@atr.co.pt SlovaËka / CK Blue Sky Travel 1. poschodie, Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel. (+421) 5262 2375 Srbija / Oki Air International Aerodrom Nikola Tesla 11180 Beograd 89 Tel: + 381 11 228 6457 Fax: + 381 11 228 6457 okiairbeg@oki.me Španjolska / Global Representacion Turistica (GRT) c/Valencia, 266, 4/1a 08007 Barcelona Tel. (+34-934) 875-775 Fax (+34-934) 880-121 Turska / ZENITH Services Head Office: Ordu Caddesi, No. 206/1, Laleli 34134 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 513-2667 Fax (+90-212) 512-4234 Airport Office: Istanbul Ataturk Airport International Terminal Departure Floor Yesilkoy 34149 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 465-50-23, 465-40-92 Fax (+90-212) 465-40-92 Bliski istok / Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda St., Migdalor blgd. 12th Floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. (+972-3) 516-7181, 516-7140 Fax (+972-3) 516-7174 Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. (+61-3) 9699-9355 Fax (+61-3) 9699-9388 Novi Zeland / New Zealand Croatia Times Limited Ltd. NZ PO Box 104-056; Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Road, Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. (+64-9) 837-9897 Fax (+64-9) 837-9898 Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo 105-0001 Japan Tel. (+81-3) 3593-6740 Fax (+81-3) 3593-6534 J. Koreja GSA-a Bohram Air Services 7F, Donghwa Bldg, 58-7 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: +82 2 754 6336 Fax: +82 2 779 8795 customersupport@croatiaairlines.co.kr