CROATIA - Croatia Airlines Inflight Magazine Summer 2013 by Croatia Airlines

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LJETO

VA© VLASTITI PRIMJERAK

M A G A Z I N E

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YOUR PERSONAL COPY

SUMMER 2013

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Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Krešimir KuËko

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ

Urednik fotograﬁje/Chief in photos Damir FabijaniÊ Roman Gebauer, Miljen

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ PrliÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Direktorica marketinga/ Director Marketing Zlata PrpiÊ

S radoπÊu vas pozdravljamo u naπem zrakoplovu, u æelji da vam i ovaj let s nama protekne ugodno i u dobrom raspoloæenju. Zadovoljstvo nam je πto vas spajamo s vaπima najbliæima i πto vas, upravo krilima naπih zrakoplova, dovodimo do odrediπta na kojima Êete zacijelo uæivati u zanimljivim susretima, druæenjima, a takoer i u ljepotama naπe zemlje. Osobito nam je drago πto nas posjeÊujete upravo ovog ljeta, kada, od 1. srpnja, Hrvatska postaje 28. Ëlanica Europske unije. Zbog toga velikog dogaaja odluËili smo ovaj broj naπega Ëasopisa uvelike posvetiti razliËitim aktualnim poveznicama s Europom. Zato kao prvu temu objavljujemo razgovor s Vesnom PusiÊ, prvom potpredsjednicom Vlade Republike te ministricom vanjskih poslova i europskih integracija Hrvatske, koja je, izmeu ostaloga, za naπ Ëasopis govorila o tome πto sve Hrvatska donosi Europskoj uniji i Europska unija Hrvatskoj. Pozivamo vas da posjetite i zagrebaËki Muzej za umjetnost i obrt, u kojemu je izloæeno posueno remek-djelo barokne umjetnosti, VeËera u Emausu, slikara Caravaggia, dar Ministarstva vanjskih poslova Republike Italije za ulazak naπe zemlje u Europsku uniju, a takoer i zagrebaËki Muzej suvremene umjetnosti, u kojemu moæete razgledati izloæbu radova Miroslava ©uteja, autora koji je svojim stvaralaπtvom cijeli æivot bio ukljuËen u europska i svjetska likovna zbivanja. Moæete odabrati i jedan od naπih letova i zaputiti se u Veneciju. Osim πto je uvijek lijepo boraviti u jednome od najromantiËnijih gradova na svijetu, zacijelo Êete uæivati i posjetite li Venecijanski bijenale na kojemu naπu zemlju predstavlja hrvatska umjetnica Kata MijatoviÊ. Volite li, pak, kazaliπte, budite u Zagrebu. Ovogodiπnji Meunarodni festival novog kazaliπta EUROKAZ svojim je programom takoer pridonio sveËanosti povijesnog trenutka ulaska Hrvatske u Europsku uniju. Ali, ako vam je draæi ﬁlm, doite u Starigrad Paklenicu, na meunarodni ﬁlmski festival u prelijepom ugoaju nacionalnog parka. Srediπnja su tema našeg Ëasopisa hrvatski spomenici pod zaπtitom Unesca, pa vas pozivamo na πetnju hrvatskom baπtinom. A kao naπe inozemno odrediπte predstavljamo vam, dakako, Bruxelles, uvijek iznova zanimljiv i privlaËan. Dragi putnici, zahvaljujuÊi vam πto letite Croatia Airlinesom, æelim vam iskrenu dobrodoπlicu u Hrvatsku, 28. Ëlanicu Europske unije.

Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek

Dear passengers,

Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o. Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26

We are pleased to welcome you on our aircraft and wish you another comfortable and pleasant ﬂight with Croatia Airlines. It is our pleasure that you have chosen to ﬂy on the wings of our aircraft to connect you with your dearest ones and travel to the destinations where you will certainly enjoy interesting encounters and gatherings, but also the beauties of our country. We are especially glad that you are visiting us this summer, the summer when, on 1st July, Croatia becomes the 28th member of the European Union. Because of this historical event, we have decided to largely devote this issue of our magazine to various current topics

D. FabijaniÊ

Poπtovani putnici!

related to Europe. Therefore, our first topic is an interview with Vesna PusiÊ, the Croatian First Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Foreign and European Affairs, who has, among other things, told us what Croatia brings to the European Union and what the European Union brings to Croatia. We invite you to visit the Zagreb Museum of Arts and Crafts and see the masterpiece of Baroque art, Caravaggio’s Supper at Emmaus. The one-painting exhibition is a gift from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Italy for Croatia’s accession to the European Union. Also, we invite you to visit the Zagreb Museum of Contemporary Art, where you can see an exhibition of works by Miroslav ©utej, the author who has been a part of the European and world art scenes all his life. You can also select one of our flights which will take you to Venice. Besides indulging in your stay in one of the most romantic cities in the world, you will certainly enjoy a visit to the Venetian Biennale where our country is represented by the Croatian artist Kata MijatoviÊ. If you prefer theatre, stay in Zagreb. This year’s EUROKAZ, the international festival of new theatre, offers a programme which also contributes to the celebration of the historical moment of Croatia’s entrance into the European Union. However, if you favour films, you should visit Starigrad Paklenica and its international film festival organized in the wonderful ambiance of the national park. The central theme of this issue relates to the Croatian monuments protected by UNESCO, and so we invite you to take a stroll through Croatian heritage. The international destination we are presenting to you is, of course, Brussels, a city which you will always find interesting and attractive. Dear passengers, thank you for flying Croatia Airlines and I most cordially welcome you to Croatia, the 28th member of the European Union.

Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec

Vaš, Sincerely yours,

Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

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■ SADRÆAJ 6

Razgovor: Vesna PusiÊ

HRVATSKA U EUROPSKOJ UNIJI

S Vesnom PusiÊ, ministricom vanjskih poslova i europskih integracija te prvom potpredsjednicom Vlade RH, razgovarali smo o povijesnoj vaænosti ulaska Hrvatske u Europsku uniju. 16 Izložbe

VE»ERA U EMAUSU

U zagrebaËkome Muzeju za umjetnosti i obrt izloæeno je remek djelo barokne umjetnosti VeËera u Emausu, talijanskog slikara Caravaggia. 28 Muzeji

MIROSLAV ©UTEJ, UMJETNIK KOJI ΔE VAS IZNENADITI

U danima pristupanja Hrvatske Europskoj uniji, Muzej suvremene umjetnosti u Zagrebu otvara vrata retrospektivnoj izloæbi Miroslava ©uteja. 36 Baština

©ETNJA HRVATSKOM BAŠTINOM

Na Unescovu listu svjetske baπtine Hrvatske je upisala sedam svojih znamenitosti: PlitviËka jezera, Stari grad Dubrovnik, Starogradsko polje na Hvaru, Dioklecijanovu palaËu, romaniËki grad Trogir, katedralu u ©ibeniku I Eufrazijevu baziliku u PoreËu. 40 Umjetnost

DOK SANJAMO, SVI SMO UMJETNICI

Na 55. venecijanskom bijenalu europskome i svjetskom auditoriju predstavit Êe se multimedijalna umjetnica Kata MijatoviÊ. Hrvatski paviljon otvoren je do 24. studenoga 2013. 52 Naše odredište

GOSTOLJUBIVI I TOLERANTNI BRUXELLES

Glavnom gradu Belgije πarm udahnjuje velika multikulturalnost. Polovica stanovnika roena je izvan granica te dræave. Dom su pronaπli u Bruxellesu, gostoljubivome i tolerantnome kao malo koje drugo mjesto u Europi. 66 Povijest

ROMANTI»NO PUTOVANJE STARIM KONTINENTOM

Veliki se gradovi u globaliziranom 21. stoljeÊu sve manje razlikuju, a zrakoplovi su nam oteli svijest o udaljenostima. S jednoga na drugi kraj Europe, ne tako davno, puna tri dana putovalo se æeljeznicom pod legendarnim imenom Orient Express. 94 Novo kazalište

EUROKAZ ZA EUROPSKU UNIJU

Meunarodni festival novog kazaliπta EUROKAZ, kao πto govori njegovo ime, kroz cijelu se svoju povijest bavio Europom i trudio oko ukljuËenja Hrvatske u europski kulturni prostor. 108 Festivali

STARIGRAD PAKENICA, NEZAOBILAZNO ODREDIŠTE FILMSKIH EKIPA

Starigrad je nekad bio nezaobilazno odrediπte ﬁlmskih ekipa sa svih strana svijeta. Danas je, veÊ tradicionalno, domaÊin meunarodnog festivala glazbenoga dokumentarnog ﬁlma. 112 Znanost

FESTIVAL SVJETSKE ZNANOSTI

Samo koji dan uoËi ulaska Republike Hrvatske u EU, u Splitu se odræava Osmi kongres forenziËke, antropoloπke i medicinske genetike. 2

Ljeto/Summer 2013

www.croatiaairlines.com

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■ CONTENTS 6

Interview: Vesna PusiÊ

CROATIA IN THE EUROPEAN UNION

We talked with the Croatian Minister of Foreign and European Affairs and First Deputy Prime Minister Vesna PusiÊ about the historical importance of Croatia’s accession to the EU. 16 Exhibitions

SUPPER AT EMMAUS

A masterpiece of Baroque art known as Supper at Emmaus by the Italian painter Caravaggio is exhibited at Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts. 28 Museums

MIROSLAV ©UTEJ, AN ARTIST WHO WILL SURPRISE YOU

During the days leading to Croatia’s accession to the EU, Zagreb’s Museum of Contemporary Arts opens its doors to a retrospective exhibition of works by Miroslav ©utej. 36 Heritage

A STROLL THROUGH CROATIAN HERITAGE

Seven of Croatia’s properties have been inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List: Plitvice Lakes, the Old City of Dubrovnik, Stari Grad Plain on the island of Hvar, Diocletian’s Palace in Split, the Historic City of Trogir, St. James Cathedral in ©ibenik, and the Euphrasian Basilica in PoreË. 40 Art

WHILE WE DREAM, WE ARE ALL ARTISTS At the 55th Venetian Biennale, Croatia will present to the European and world public the multimedia artist Kata MijatoviÊ. The Croatian pavilion will be open until 24 November 2013. 52 Our destinations

BRUSSELS, A HOSPITABLE AND TOLERANT CITY

Remarkable multiculturalism is what gives the capital of Belgium its unique charm. Although half of its citizens were born beyond the borders of Belgium, they have nevertheless found their home in Brussels, a hospitable and tolerant European city. 66 History

A ROMANTIC JOURNEY ACROSS THE OLD CONTINENT

Large cities in the globalised 21st century are increasingly less different from each other, and the daily ﬂight connections between them have diminished the awareness of their distances. Not so long ago, it took three days to travel from one part of Europe to another on the legendary train the Orient Express. 94 New theatre

EUROKAZ FOR THE EUROPEAN UNION

As its name suggests, the international festival of new theatre EUROKAZ has always focused on Europe, and as such it has been instrumental in the immersion of Croatia into the European cultural environment. 108 Festivals

STARIGRAD PAKLENICA, AN UNAVOIDABLE DESTINATION FOR FILM CREWS

Starigrad used to be an unavoidable location for ﬁlm crews from all over the world. Today, it is the host of the already traditional international music documentary ﬁlm festival. 112 Science

WORLD SCIENCE FESTIVAL

The Eighth ISABS Conference on Forensic, Anthropologic and Medical Genetics and Mayo Clinic Lectures in Translational Medicine is taking place in Split on the eve of the accession of the Republic of Croatia to the EU. 4

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak

This is your personal copy

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■ RAZGOVOR VESNA PUSIΔ

Piπe/By Ksenija Žlof

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Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

INTERVIEW VESNA PUSIΔ ■

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Punopravno Ëlanstvo Hrvatske u Europskoj uniji poËetak je novog razdoblja za naπu zemlju. Hrvatski turizam izlazi na zajedniËko træiπte od petsto milijuna ljudi, a Croatia Airlines vaæan je element hrvatske turistiËke ponude, smatra Vesna PusiÊ, ministrica vanjskih poslova i europskih integracija te prva potpredsjednica Vlade RH, s kojom smo razgovarali za naš Ëasopis. Izvrstan geopolitiËki poloæaj naπim se ulaskom u Europsku uniju pretvara u trajnu komparativnu prednost. Croatia’s fully ﬂedged membership in the European Union marks the beginning of a new stage for our country. Croatian tourism enters the common market of 500 million people, and Croatia Airlines represents an important element in the Croatian tourist offer, says Vesna PusiÊ, Croatian Minister of Foreign and European Affairs and First Deputy Prime Minister. Croatia’s excellent geopolitical position will become a permanent comparative advantage with our accession to the EU. 8

d 1. srpnja Hrvatska je 28 Ëlanica Europske unije. Tako je ostvaren jedan od najvaænijih povijesnih ciljeva Hrvatske i jedan od najvaænijih hrvatskih projekata. S naπom ministricom vanjskih poslova i europskih integracija i prvom potpredsjednicom Vlade RH Vesnom PusiÊ razgovarali smo o povijesnoj vaænosti ulaska Hrvatske u Europsku uniju. Otkrili smo i zaπto ministrica smatra da Hrvatska sve viπe postaje idealno mjesto za posjet kulturi i æivotnom stilu te koja mjesta osobno voli posjeÊivati i zaπto. ■ Koje smo sve ciljeve ostvarili Ëlanstvom naπe zemlje u Europskoj uniji? − Dva su osnovna cilja koje dostiæemo Ëlanstvom u Europskoj uniji: izgradnja institucija dræave i dugoroËna stabilnost u politiËki sigurnom okruæju. Povijesno gledano, to je prekretnica u naπem razvoju, oko koje smo uspjeli izgraditi politiËki konsenzus, odræavati ga gotovo desetljeÊe i koncentrirano iÊi prema ostvarenju cilja. U dvadeset i dvije godine dræavne samostalnosti dostigli smo Ëetiri strateπka cilja − meunarodno priznanje dræave, obranu i reintegraciju vlastitog teritorija, Ëlanstvo u NATO-u i, od 1. srpnja 2013. godine, i Ëlanstvo u Europskoj uniji. Ostvarenje tih strateπkih ciljeva temelj je na kojem Êemo graditi uspjeπnu buduÊnost za naπe graane. Smatram da punopravno Ëlanstvo u Europskoj uniji nije zavrπetak, nego poËetak nove faze za nas. »lanstvo u Europskoj uniji otvara brojne moguÊnosti, a na nama je da ih iskoristimo, dobrom pripremom i projektima, koristeÊi se vlastitim znanjem i vjeπtinama. Uvjerena sam da to i moæemo. ■ Za ulazak u Europsku uniju naπa je zemlja morala zadovoljiti viπe kriterija nego neke zemlje koje su uπle prije nas. Smatrate li da nam je to zapravo donijelo dodanu vrijednost i u Ëemu se ona sastoji? − Tijekom procesa pregovaranja, koji je trajao oko πest godina, proveli smo mnoge i teπke reforme, Ëime smo postavili temelje funkcioniranja institucija dræave, i u tome je najveÊa vrijednost pregovaraËkog procesa. Ulazimo u Europsku uniju pripremljeni bolje od ijedne druge dræave jer imali smo i mnogo stroæe kriterije za primanje u Ëlanstvo. Imali smo 35 poglavlja, za razliku od dræava u prethodnim krugovima proπirenja. Imali smo posebno poglavlje − pravosue, koje nije imala ni jedna dræava prije nas. Imali smo mjerila, njih oko 400, za otvaranje i zatvaranje gotovo svih poglavlja. Naπa je dodana vrijednost naπe steËeno iskustvo i znanje. Prethodni krugovi proπirenja odvijali su se u potpuno drugaËijim okolnostima. Gospodarstvo je bilo u usponu, a i stare i nove dræave Ëlanice bile su pune entuzijazma i optimizma u vezi s proπirenjem. Ulazak deset dræava 2004. godine u punopravno Ëlanstvo svi su doæivljavali kao konaËni zavrπetak Hladnog rata, a ulazak je Rumunjske i Bugarske 2007. imao osobito geopolitiËko znaËenje. Naπ

ulazak i naπe Ëlanstvo mi vidimo kao proπirenje sa zadatkom. Taj zadatak jest pridonijeti stabiliziranju cijele regije i aktivno suraivati sa susjedima na njihovim europskim reformama. ■ Hrvatska se odredila kao turistiËka zemlja. ©to u tom smislu za Hrvatsku znaËi ulazak u Europsku uniju? − Hrvatski turizam izlazi na zajedniËko træiπte od petsto milijuna ljudi. Na tom træiπtu nema carina ni carinskih pregleda na granicama. Pametnim i dobro osmiπljenim projektima iz turizma na raspolaganju su sredstva iz EU fondova. Njima se mogu koristiti individualni poduzetnici, tvrtke, lokalna i regionalna samouprava i srediπnja dræava. Projekti regionalnog razvoja, razvoja ljudskih potencijala, poljoprivrede i obnovljivih izvora energije, svi su istodobno i projekti razvoja turizma. »lanstvo u EU Ëini zemlju politiËki sigurnijom i za investitore i smanjuje rizik stranim ulagaËima. Sve to poveÊava πanse kvalitetne i raznolike turistiËke ponude, veÊeg broja hotela s 4 i 5 zvjezdica, te turistiËkih sadræaja koji ukljuËuju kulturu, sport, znanost, rekreaciju, zdravlje, uËenje i druge oblike aktivnoga i angaæiranog turizma. ■ Kako vidite ulogu nacionalnog avioprijevoznika u novim okolnostima? − Croatia Airlines vidim kao vaæan element naπe turistiËke ponude. Kompanija mora biti konkurentna i ﬂeksibilna u ponudi letova. Croatia Airlines ima potencijalno veliku ulogu u aﬁrmiranju uloge Hrvatske u πiroj regiji uspostavljajuÊi vezu sa svim glavnim gradovima u ovom dijelu Europe. Takoer, u sezoni treba osigurati i jeftinije letove, kao i charter letove do nekih destinacija. MoguÊnost povezivanja otoka, od kojih mnogi imaju male piste, malim avionima koji se kao srediπtem koriste jednim od aerodroma uz obalu, takoer je potencijal koji treba uzeti u obzir. Fleksibilnost, inventivnost i konkurentnost po mojem su miπljenju kljuËne za buduÊnost Croatia Airlinesa. ■ Kao Ëlanica Europske unije prema nekim zemljama morat Êemo uvesti vizni reæim. Kako Êemo olakπati dolazak brojnim gostima iz Rusije, Turske, Ukrajine i drugima, koji su dosad mogli u Hrvatsku doÊi bez vize? − Od poËetka smo bili svjesni da Êemo se trebati prilagoavati i implementirati direktive i rjeπenja Europske unije, pa tako i one koji se odnose na vizni reæim kao i prilagodbe za ulazak u schengenski prostor. O tome smo s naπim partnerima izvan Europske unije poËeli razgovarati joπ prije viπe od godinu dana, kako bismo zajedniËki, a u sklopu zadanih pravila, pronaπli rjeπenja prihvatljiva za sve strane. RijeË je, kako ste i sami rekli, o partnerima iz Rusije, Turske, Ukrajine i drugima. Predstavnici Ministarstva vanjskih i europskih poslova, zajedno s predstavnicima drugih hrvatskih ministarstava, kao i strukovnih i profesionalnih udruga, putniËkih agencija, hotelijera i ostalih razgovarali su s partnerskim organizacijama iz

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Rusije, Ukrajine i Turske te drugih kako bismo se svi πto kvalitetnije pripremili za nove uvjete, odnosno za vizni reæim koji je Hrvatska poËela primjenjivati od 1. travnja, sukladno preuzetim obvezama. Radi toga akreditirali smo turistiËke agencije te otvorili vizni centar u Rusiji, a predstoji skoro otvaranje viznog centra u Ukrajini. Diljem Rusije otvorili smo 18 viznih ureda, odnosno centara u kojima ruski graani mogu predati potrebne dokumente i podiÊi hrvatsku vizu. Uvodimo sustav u kojemu Êe se viza moÊi zatraæiti preko interneta, tako da Êe stranka morati doÊi u konzulat ili vizni centar samo prilikom podizanja vize. Isti model primijenit Êemo i u Ukrajini. Vize nisu potrebne za nositelje diplomatskih putovnica, a u sluËaju turskih dræavljana vize nisu potrebne ni za nositelje sluæbenih te posebnih putovnica. Turske avionske i brodske posade takoer ne trebaju vize. PojaËali smo broj konzularnih djelatnika u veleposlanstvima kako bismo mogli obraditi πto veÊi broj zahtjeva za vize, a proceduru odobravanja i izdavanja viza skratili na najkraÊi moguÊi rok, odnosno do pet dana. Vaæno je znati i da svi dræavljani zemalja neËlanica Europske unije mogu u Hrvatsku uÊi i sa schengenskom vizom, odnosno u tom sluËaju ne trebaju imati i posebnu hrvatsku vizu. Kontinuirano Êemo raditi oko olakπavanja procedure dobivanja viza. Sve sugestije i napomene naπih gostiju dobro su doπle, kako bi procedura bila πto bræa i efikasnija. ■ Mediteran je oduvijek bio privlaËno turistiËko odrediπte, a Hrvatska je i mediteranska zemlja. Poveznica s Mediteranom i mediteranska prepoznatljivost zacijelo su pridonijeli pozitivnoj percepciji Hrvatske u oËima potencijalnih turista, osobito u vrijeme kad se naπa zemlja joπ trebala dokazivati kao poæeljno turistiËko odrediπte. Ali svaka mediteranska zemlja, pa tako i Hrvatska, ima i svojih specifiËnosti. Koje biste hrvatske specifiËnosti istaknuli? − Ljepota i privlaËnost Mediterana u njegovim je detaljima, specifiËnima za pojedinu zemlju, koji se ipak meusobno nadopunjuju i tvore zajedniËki mozaik Mediterana koji prepoznajemo kao πiri prostor πto spaja razliËite kontinente. Hrvatska ima brojne i po svojoj geoloπkoj strukturi raznolike otoke, πto je veoma privlaËno za nautiËare. Obala i otoci, ali i unutraπnjost mogu razviti sve vrste turizma, od aktivnoga, do zdravstvenoga i kongresnoga. Osobito bih istaknula: raznolikost na maloj udaljenosti − otoci, obala, zalee i unutraπnjost; velike moguÊnosti aktivnog odmora − jedrenje, ronjenje, slobodno penjanje, planinarenje, splavarenje, klasiËni sportovi, tradicionalni sportovi, berbe i sjetve; hrana i kuhinja − πkole tradicionalnog kuhanja; ljekovito bilje i kozmetika − maslinovo ulje i proizvodi, lavanda, med, buhaË; povijesne znamenitosti − arhitektura, arheoloπka nalaziπta; umjetnost i kultura;

agroturizam − specifiËna ponuda i iskustvo naËina æivota domaÊih ljudi. Kombiniranjem svih tih elemenata Hrvatska postaje idealno mjesto za posjet kulturi i æivotnom stilu, a ne samo nekoj speciﬁËnoj lokaciji. ■ Hrvatska obala i otoci danas su vrlo poæeljna i prepoznata turistiËka odrediπta. Dubrovnik je svjetski brend. Koje biste projekte istaknuli kao nezaobilazne, vaæne ili dobrodoπle? − Pokrenuli smo projekt pod radnim nazivom Jadranska Provansa, koji je usmjeren na razvoj dalmatinskog zalea, prostora udaljenoga samo dvadesetak kilometara od Jadranskog mora, a proteæe se od zadarskog zalea do Konavala. To je prekograniËni projekt s obzirom na to da obuhvaÊa i juæni dio Bosne i Hercegovine. Za sada ga zovemo Jadranska Provansa kako bi strani partneri s kojima smo razgovarali odmah dobili sliku o kakvu prostoru je rijeË. Po terenu, arhitekturi, klimi, prirodi, hrani, osvjetljenju, æivotinjama, biljkama i poljoprivredi, to je podruËje vrlo sliËno Provansi − jednoj od najelitnijih destinacija na svijetu. Ima goleme potencijale kako u turizmu, tako i u kvaliteti æivota, ali usluæno nije razvijeno, slabo je naseljeno i uglavnom neiskoriπteno. Posjetiteljima moæe pruæiti aktivan odmor u kojemu se mogu okuπati u kuhanju, starim zanatima ili sportovima, ukratko, iskustvo razliËitog lifestylea koji Êe ih uvijek iznova privlaËiti k nama. Osim svega, to je i naËin za ËvrπÊu suradnju sa susjednom Bosnom i Hercegovinom preko zajedniËkih projekata i koriπtenje prekograniËnih fondova. ■ Koje biste hrvatske gospodarske komparativne prednosti istaknuli u odnosu na konkurentske zemlje? − Izvrstan geopolitiËki poloæaj, koji se naπim ulaskom u Europsku uniju pretvara u trajnu komparativnu prednost. Neπto πto je kroz povijest bilo razlogom za osvajanje, jer nalazimo se na transportnim i komunikacijskim pravcima, danas je prednost i za nas i za Europu. Izvrsna cestovna povezanost i potencijali za razvoj postojeÊih luka. ■ Koja mjesta osobno birate za svoj godiπnji odmor i koja biste, moæda manje poznata, preporuËili posjetiteljima Hrvatske kao vrijedna otkrivanja? − Volim unutraπnjost Istre, dovoljno blizu veÊih mjesta ili gradova u kojima mogu uæivati u kulturnim dogaanjima, koncertima, izloæbama i sliËno, a ipak dovoljno daleko od gradske guæve i vreve, u predivnoj prirodi. PrivlaËe me prostori blizu mora, ali malo povuËeni u unutraπnjost. Primjerice, unutraπnjost Hvara − Vrisnik, ZastraæiπÊe, Gdinj. Ili delta Neretve s prekrasnim gradiÊem Opuzenom. Pa konavosko polje i brda iznad njega u proljeÊe. Velebit i pogled na otoke s livada ispod Zaviæana. Ili KopaËki rit, s dvorcem Eugena Savojskog i obojenim maglicama iznad voda, zbog kojih je Ëaroban u ljetnim sumracima. Manastir Krupa,

zelene kraπke rijeke i Kudin most. Koliko god Ëovjek istraæuje, uvijek Êe naÊi neπto novo. ■ Roena ste ZagrepËanka. ©to u Zagrebu ima za Vas osobito znaËenje? − Breæuljci kojima se Sljeme spuπta prema Donjem gradu. ©alata, jedan od tih breæuljaka, s obiteljskim kuÊama moga djetinjstva, Visoka ulica na Gornjem gradu, πetnje oko Cmroka u proljetnim veËerima, divlji kesteni ispred Rektorata, Jurjevsko groblje, tri trga-parka zagrebaËke potkove − Zrinjevac, Strossmayerov i Tomislavov, savski nasip u svako doba godine, MeπtroviÊev paviljon na Trgu ærtava faπizma, Dolac i Branimirova trænica u subotnja jutra. Zagreb je mjesto moje potpune identiﬁkacije. ■ Koja biste mjesta u kontinentalnom dijelu Hrvatske preporuËili kao zanimljiva? − Mogla bih dugo nabrajati jer osobito volim malo tajanstvena mjesta u unutraπnjosti. Zato Êu ih navesti samo nekoliko. Slavonija i Baranja − Ëudesna, magiËna, nedovoljno turistiËki otkrivena, odreena Savom, Dravom i Dunavom, s golemim nebom iznad ravnice, sa svojim barokom i secesijom, sa salaπima i crvenim katedralama od cigle. –akovo, Ilok, Miholjac, Poæega i fantastiËni grad koji lebdi u prostoru − Osijek. Zatim Zagorje, osobito srediπnji dio s breæuljcima s Rabuzinovih slika, s impozantnim dvorcima i neobiËnim selima koja uzgajaju divlje orhideje kakvo je Radoboj. Barokni Varaædin. Pa onda Meimurje, s velikim vodama, Ëetvrtastim kuÊama i muzikalnim seoskim zborovima. ■ Kao ministrica vanjskih poslova posjetili ste mnoge zemlje. Iako zacijelo ne ostaje mnogo vremena za razgledavanje, koja biste inozemna odrediπta izdvojili kao osobita po neËemu za Vas osobno i koja su mjesta na Vas ostavila osobit dojam? − Mnogo sam viπe vidjela na svojim prijaπnjim putovanjima, kad sam putovala privatno ili kao sveuËiliπna profesorica. Iz tog vremena imam mnogo viπe dojmova. Sada uglavnom pravim mentalne biljeπke, kamo Êu se vratiti i πto bih voljela zaista vidjeti jednog dana kad Êu za to imati vremena. ■ ©to biste æeljeli poruËiti svima onima koji dolaze posjetiti naπu zemlju… − Neka vas ne zavara to πto je Hrvatska u europskim razmjerima mala zemlja. NeÊete je moÊi vidjeti u tjedan dana. NeÊete je moÊi upoznati u jednom posjetu. Odaberite za svaki posjet jedan dio i upoznajte ne samo znamenitosti, more i sunce, nego i ljude, kulturu, hranu, kazaliπte, obiËaje. Ja ovdje æivim cijeli æivot i joπ nisam prestala otkrivati zemlju i ljude. Za nas mnogo znaËi to πto da smo dio jedne tako velike i dobre ideje kakva je Europska unija. Ali i mi njoj donosimo neke ljepote, neka iskustva, neke mudrosti i neke tajne koje nam postaju zajedniËke. Dobro doπli u Hrvatsku! ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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s of July 1st, Croatia will become the 28th member of the European Union. This means that one of most important historical goals has been achieved and one of the most demanding Croatian projects completed. We talked with Croatian Minister of Foreign and European Affairs and First Deputy Prime Minister Vesna PusiÊ about the historical importance of Croatia’s accession to the EU. We have also found out why she believes that Croatia is increasingly becoming the ideal place to visit for culture and a particular lifestyle and which places she personally likes visiting and why. ■ Which goals have we achieved by Croatia’s membership in the EU? − By joining the European Union we have achieved two principal goals: the development of state institutions and long-term stability in a politically safe environment. From a historical perspective, this is a turning point in our development. We have managed to achieve a political consensus on that, we have kept it alive for nearly a decade and we have stayed fully focused on the efforts to achieve that goal. During the 22-year long period of independence we have achieved four strategic goals: our state has become internationally recognised; we have defended and reintegrated our territory; we have become a NATO member state; and as of July 1st 2013, we will become a member of the European Union. The achievement of these strategic goals is the foundation on which we will build a successful future for our citizens. I believe that fully fledged membership in the European Union is not the end but rather the beginning of a new stage for us. The European Union membership opens numerous possibilities and it will be up to us to make the most of them, through good preparation and projects, using our own knowledge and skills. I am convinced that we can do that. ■ Our country had to fulfil more criteria than some other countries which joined the European Union before us. Is it your view that the challenge has actually given us an additional value, and if it did, what does it entail? − During the negotiation process, which lasted approximately six years, we have implemented many reforms, all of them challenging, and by doing that we have laid the foundation for the functioning of state institutions. That, in my view, was the biggest value of the negotiating process. We are joining the European Union better prepared than any other state because we had to fulfil much stricter accession criteria. We had to open a total of 35 chapters, unlike any of the other states that joined during previous accession cycles. We had a separate chapter called judiciary, which no other state before us had to deal with. We had a total of 400 opening and 10

closing benchmarks for nearly all the chapters. In the process, we have acquired knowledge and experience and this, I would say, is our added value. Previous enlargement cycles unfolded under totally different circumstances. The economy was buoyant and both the old and new member states were full of enthusiasm and optimism with regard to the enlargement. In 2004, when the ten new members became fully fledged members, everybody perceived that event as the end of the Cold War, whereas the accession of Romania and Bulgaria in 2007 had a special geopolitical significance. We see our accession and our membership as enlargement with a mission, the mission being to contribute to the stabilisation of the entire region and to actively cooperate with our neighbours and help them with their European reforms. ■ Croatia defines itself as a tourist country. What does European Union membership means for Croatia in that sense? − Croatian tourism stands to gain access to a common market of 500 million people without border checks or custom duties. Smart and well designed tourist projects will have access to EU funds which can be allocated to individual entrepreneurs, companies, local and regional administrations and the central state. Regional development projects, the development of human resources, investment in agriculture and renewable energy sources are all projects that help towards the development of tourism. EU membership means more safety for foreign investors and a lower investment risk. All of this increases the opportunities for the development of a more varied and higher quality tourist supply, a higher number of 4 and 5-star hotels, as well as other tourist-related facilities and services which include culture, sport, science, health, education and other forms of active and dynamic tourism. ■ How do you perceive the role of the national air carrier under the newly-arisen circumstances? − I see Croatia Airlines as an important element of our tourist supply. The company has to be competitive and flexible in terms of its flight offer. Croatia Airlines has the potential to play a major role in the regional promotion of Croatia by way of establishing links with all the capitals in this part of Europe. Also, it has to make sure that there are cheaper flights during the main tourist season, as well as charter flights to some destinations. The possibility of connecting the islands which already have small runways with small planes which will use one of the coastal airports as their base is also a development potential which should not be ignored. Flexibility, innovativeness and competitiveness are, in my view, the three

crucial key prerequisites which will ensure the future of Croatia Airlines. ■ As a European Union member state, we will have to introduce visas for some countries. How are we going to facilitate the arrival of numerous guests from Russia, Turkey, Ukraine and others who could previously visit Croatia without a visa? − Since the very beginning of this process, we have been aware that we would have to adjust and implement the European Union directives and solutions, including those that apply to the visa regime and those that relate to our accession to the Schengen area. We started discussing that with our non-European Union partners over a year ago. The idea was to find mutually acceptable solutions within the framework of the set rules. As you have said it yourself, those are partners from Russia, Turkey, Ukraine and others. Representatives of the Ministry of Foreign and European Affairs, together with representatives of other Croatian ministries, representatives of the industry and professional associations, tour operators, travel agencies, hoteliers and others discussed the matter with partner organizations from Russia, Ukraine, Turkey and others in order to help us prepare for the new conditions, i.e. for the visa regime that Croatia started implementing as of April 1st, in keeping with the commitments it had taken. That is why we accredited tourist agencies and opened a central visa office in Russia. A similar visa office will shortly become operational in Ukraine. In Russia, we have opened 18 visa offices, i.e. visa centres where Russian citizens can apply for a visa and have it issued. We are currently in the process of introducing an on-line visa application system which means that the only time a passenger will have to come to the consulate or a visa centre is when their visa is ready to be issued. We will apply the same model in Ukraine. Visas will not be required for diplomatic representatives, and in the case of Turkish nationals, visas will not be required for holders of official and special passports. Turkish airline and boat crews will also not require a visa. We have increased the number of consular staff in our embassies so as to be able to process the highest possible number of visa applications in the shortest possible time and we have cut the approval and issuing process down to a minimum, i.e. to less than five days. It is also good to know that all the citizens of nonEuropean Union countries are allowed to enter Croatia with a Schengen visa, i.e. in that case, they do not require a special visa for Croatia. We will continue to work on improving the visaapplication process. We will happily entertain our clients’ suggestions and proposals with the aim of making the procedure as fast and efficient as possible.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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PORTO MONTENEGRO

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■ The Mediterranean has always been an attractive tourist destination, and Croatia is also a Mediterranean country. This link with the Mediterranean and Mediterranean identity have certainly contributed to the positive perception of Croatia in the eyes of potential tourists, especially during the time when our country had to prove itself as a desirable tourist destination. However, each and every Mediterranean country has its specific characteristics. Which of those would you emphasise as Croatia’s specific strengths? − The beauty and attractiveness of the Mediterranean are in the country-specific details. All of them together act in synergy and constitute a common mosaic of the Mediterranean which we recognize as a broader area that connects the different continents. Croatia has many islands that differ in terms of their geological structure, a fact that is of special interest to sailors. The littoral and the islands, as well as continental Croatia, have the potential to develop all sorts of special interest tourism, including active holidays, health tourism and meeting and convention tourism. I would particularly highlight the immense diversity that exists at short distances: the islands, the littoral, the hinterland and the continental part of Croatia; ample opportunities for active holidays which include sailing, snorkelling, free climbing, mountaineering, rafting, classical sports, harvests and sowings. There is also the food and cuisine: courses in traditional cooking, medicinal herbs and cosmetics, olive oil and related products, lavender, honey, the Pyrethrum daisy; historical highlights − architecture and archaeological sites; art and culture; farmhouse vacations, a specific supply and the experience of the local way of life. By combining all of the above elements, Croatia becomes the ideal place to go and experience a different culture and lifestyle, not just a specific location. ■ The Croatian littoral and islands are currently very desirable and well recognized tourist destinations. Dubrovnik has become an internationally recognized brand. Which projects would you highlight as a must, as important or welcome? − We have launched a project under the working title Adriatic Provence which is aimed at developing the Dalmatian hinterland, the area only 20 kilometres away from the Adriatic Sea, which stretches from the hinterland of Zadar to Konavle. This is a transboundary project since it encompasses the south-eastern parts of Bosnia and Herzegovina. For the time being, we refer to it as the Adriatic Provence Project for the benefit of our foreign partners. We want them to immediately picture the area and its 12

qualities. In terms of landscape, architecture, climate, countryside, food, light, the animal and plant life and agriculture, the area is very similar to Provence − one of the most elite destinations in the world. It has a huge potential both in terms of tourism as well as in terms of the quality of life, but it also has underdeveloped services, it is scarcely populated and generally under-used. What it can offer is an active vacation during which visitors can try their hand at cooking, old crafts or sports; in other words, it can provide them with the experience of a different lifestyle which will keep on luring them back to Croatia. Moreover, this is a way to establish closer cooperation with our neighbour Bosnia and Herzegovina through a joint project and the use of transboundary project funds. ■ What are the Croatian economic advantages over competitive countries? − Croatia has an excellent geopolitical position which will become a permanent comparative advantage after our accession to the European Union. In the past, it was a cause for conquest because our land is situated on the main transport and communication routes; today, this is an advantage both for us and for Europe. Also, there is an excellent network of roads and the potential to develop the existing harbours. ■ What places do you personally choose for holidays? If any of them are off the beaten track, would you recommend them to the visitors of Croatia as worthy to discover? − I like places in continental Istria that are close enough to bigger towns or cities, where I can enjoy culture, concerts, exhibitions and the like, but still far enough from the city tumult and noise, in a wonderful countryside. I am attracted by places close to the sea but still a bit further inland, for example, the inland of Hvar - Vrisnik, ZastraæiπÊe and Gdinj. Or, I would say the delta of the Neretva River with the beautiful town of Opuzen. Also, I suggest the Konavle Valley and the hills towering over it in springtime. Mount Velebit and the views of the islands from the mountain glades below Zaviæan. Or the KopaËki Rit wetland where a palace was built for Prince Eugene of Savoy, and where the coloured mist above the water makes the site magical in summer sunsets. There are also the Krupa Monastery, the green karst rivers and Kudin Bridge. However much a person explores, there is always something new to discover. ■ You were born and raised in Zagreb. Which are the places of special signiﬁcance in your native city? − The hills that descend from Sljeme towards the lower town are quite signiﬁcant. ©alata is one of those hills, the residential area of my childhood. I would also recommend Visoka Street in the Upper Town, a leisurely stroll around Cmrok on a balmy spring evening, horse chestnuts in

front of the university rectorate, Jurjevsko Cemetery, the three parks in Zagreb’s horseshoe: Zrinjevac, Strossmayer and Tomislav Squares; the embankment along the Sava River any time of the year, MeπtroviÊ’s pavilion in Trg Ærtava Faπizma Square, Dolac and Branimir markets on a Saturday morning. Zagreb is the place of my complete identiﬁcation. ■ Which destinations would you recommend in the continental part of Croatia as particularly interesting? − The list would be long. I am particularly keen on somewhat mysterious places. Let me mention but a few: Slavonia and Baranja − magical, yet still untapped by tourists, delineated by the Sava, Drava and Danube, with a vast sky above the level plain, with its Baroque and Viennese Secession, with typical rural farms and red brick cathedrals. There are also –akovo, Ilok, Miholjac, Poæega and a fantastic city which simply levitates in space − Osijek. The next area is Zagorje, especially its central part with hills from Rabuzin’s paintings, with impressive burgs and quirky little villages like Radoboj where wild orchids are grown. Baroque Varaædin. And then, Meimurje, with big waters, square houses and gifted village choirs. ■ You have visited many countries in your capacity as the minister of foreign affairs. I suppose that there is never much time left for sightseeing, but there must be some foreign destinations that you would single out as special, those that have made a lasting impression on you personally? − I saw a lot more when I travelled as a tourist or as a university professor. I carry a lot more impressions from those times. Now I mostly make mental notes of the places where I wish to return and those things that I would really like to see some day when the time allows. ■ Minister, is there anything else you wish to add and what is your message to those who come to our country − possibly an occasional message which relates to our EU accession? − Do not be deceived by the fact that Croatia is a small country in European terms. You will not be able to see it all in week. You will not be able to get to know it on a single visit. Choose a different region every time and get to know not just the highlights, the sea and the sun, but also its people, culture, food, theatre and customs. I have lived here all my life and I have never stopped discovering the land and the people. Being part of such a great and good idea as the European Union means a lot to us. In our turn, we offer Europe some beautiful things and experiences, some pearls of wisdom and some secrets which will become part of our common wealth. Welcome to Croatia. ■

CROATIA AIRLINES

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CROATIA AIRLINES

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HRVATSKA Republika

To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËnu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2001. godine, 4,437.460 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima.

CROATIA Republic of

National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contribu-

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Izravne domaÊe linije Direct domestic routes Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines’ destinations

Q stalne / regular Q sezonske ljetne / seasonal in summer

............................................ Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica − kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (779.145 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. prosinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine.

This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. By the 2001 census, Croatia’s population is 4,437,460. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The ofﬁcial language is Croatian, and the ofﬁcial script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (779,145 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova. 14

ted to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima iz svih razdoblja, zbog burnih povijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja razliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karakteriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakralna baπtina te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeuropskoga kulturnog kruga i istiËe se mnogim prapovijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine.

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A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of inﬂuences of different cultures. Its coast is characterized by the inﬂuences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monuments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous

prehistoric ﬁndings of world signiﬁcance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental complexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik. The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − najveÊe tu ri stiË ko izne na e nje te hit-odre di πte na Sredozemlju. Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, priobalje te kontinentalni dio zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u 2011. godini u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima zabilježili su 11,455.677 turista, od kojih je 87 posto stranih (9,926.674).

Turisti su ostvarili u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima oko 60,000.000 noÊenja (60,138. 241 noÊenje), a od toga 91 posto noÊenja ostvarili su strani turisti (57, 343.178). Tradicionalno su najbrojniji gosti Nijemci (22,8%), a njih slijede gosti iz Slovenije (11,7%), Italije (9,1%), Austrije (8,8%), »eπke (8,0%), Poljske (5,7%), SlovaËke (4,2%), Nizozemske (4,1%), Rusije (2,7%), Ujedinjenog Kraljevstva (2,3%), πto je ukupno 79,4 posto. Turisti iz ostalih zemalja ostvarili su 20,6 posto. Hoteli, turistiËka naselja i apartmani, hosteli, kampovi, sobe i apartmani u kuÊanstvima te ostale vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim standardima. Bogata je kulturna ponuda, kongresna i wellnes ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, charter ponuda (iznajmljivanje plovila za razonodu i sport), kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih i biciklistiËkih staza, vinske ceste, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti…

Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja, nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluau toce sta Hrvatska je bliæa ne go ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mno gih hrvatskih oto ka, pri jevoz trajek tom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od svakodnevice miljama i miljama daleko...

Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has be en a hit de stination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international exper ts in tourism. According to data from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, the Croatian tourist destinations located on the islands, along the coast and in the continental part of the country, including the capital city of Zagreb, recorded roughly 11.5 million tourists (11,455,677 tourists) in commercial accommodation facilities in 2011, of whom 87% were foreign tourists (9,926,674 foreign tourists). Tourists realized about 60 million overnight stays (60,138,241 overnights) in commercial accommodation facilities, of which 91% of the overnights were realized by foreign tourists (57,343,178 foreign tourist overnights). Traditionally, the largest number of foreign guests came from Germany (22.8%), and they were followed by guests from Slovenia (11.7%), Italy (9.1%), Austria (8.8%), the Czech Republic (8.0%), Poland (5.7%), Slovakia (4.2%), the

Netherlands (4.1%), Russia (2.7%), and the United Kingdom (2.3%), which comes to a total of 79.4%. Tourists from other countries accounted for 20.6% of the overnights. Hotels, tourist villages and apartments, hostels, camps, rooms and apartments in private homes and other forms of accommodation, such as modern nautical centres, are equipped in line with international standards. There is a rich cultural offer, together with the congress and wellness offer, sport-recreation and entertainment contents, the charter offer (renting sailing vessels for leisure and sport), many kilometres of well-groomed walking and cycling paths, wine roads, sightseeing excursions that include natural and cultural treasures... Novac i naËin plaÊanja Ku na je na ziv novËa ne je di ni ce Re pu bli ke Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp). NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima − 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac − 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima. Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Kuna (kn). In circulation are banknotes in Kuna and coins in Kuna and Lipa (lp) ∑ one hundredth of a Kuna. The banknotes are issued in the following denominations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Kuna, while the denomination structure of the coins is 1, 2 and 5 Kuna and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Lipa (100 Lipa = 1 Kuna). Payments can be made by credit card (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard and Mastercard), as well as euro-checks. Cash can be withdrawn from ATMs.

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■ IZLOŽBE EXHIBITIONS

Piše/By Anelka Mustapić

Od 5. lipnja do 22. kolovoza u zagrebaËkome Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt izlaæe se remek-djelo barokne umjetnosti VeËera u Emausu, talijanskog slikara Caravaggia. Posudbom slike Ministarstvo vanjskih poslova Republike Italije slavi ulazak Hrvatske u Europsku uniju, a sve je potaknula talijanska veleposlanica u Hrvatskoj Nj. E. gospoa Emanuela D’Alessandro. A masterpiece of Baroque art known as The Supper at Emmaus by the Italian painter Caravaggio will be exhibited at Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts between 5 June and 22 August 2013. The opportunity to see this one-painting exhibition is a gift from the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs to congratulate Croatia on its accession to the European Union. The person behind the idea is the Italian Ambassador to Croatia HE Ms. Emanuela D’Alessandro.

emek-djelo barokne umjetnosti VeËera u Emausu talijanskog slikara Michelangela Merisija, poznatijega pod imenom Caravaggio, πto ga je slikar uzeo vjerojatno zbog pijeteta prema istoimenom selu nadomak Milana u kojemu je roen

1571., izlaæe se u zagrebaËkome Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt od 5. lipnja do 22. kolovoza 2013. godine. Slika je procijenjena na sto milijuna eura, po Ëemu je jedna od najskupljih do sada izloæenih slika, ne samo u Zagrebu, nego i u cijeloj Hrvatskoj.

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VeĂ&#x2039;era u Emausu, ulje na platnu, 141x175 cm Pinacoteca di Brera di Milano Uz dopuĎ&#x20AC;tenje Ministarstva za kulturna dobra i aktivnosti Republike Italije Supper at Emmaus, oil an canvas, 141x175 cm Brera Art Gallery, Milan With the premmision of the Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Activities of the Republic of Italy

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Motiv slike autor je uzeo iz Evaelja po Luki. PriËa je, dakle, biblijska: nakon Isusove smrti i uskrsnuÊa, dvojica njegovih sljedbenika vraÊala su se u rodni Emaus, antiËki grad, po evanelistu Luki 60 stadija (oko 11 km) udaljen od Jeruzalema. Usput su, utuËeni, govorili o Isusovoj muci na kriæu. Pridruæio im se neki stranac, koji se vrlo lako ukljuËio u razgovor, pa su ga sljedbenici, krπÊani, u Emausu pozvali na veËeru. Tek kad im je stranac podijelio napola kruh i nestao, shvatili su da je s njima bio uskrsli Isus. 18

Sliku je Caravaggio naslikao 1606. godine, u bijegu iz Rima, gdje je bio ucijenjen zbog ubojstva nekog mladiÊa u dvoboju, tj. svodnika prostitutke s kojom je, po svemu sudeÊi, i Caravaggio ∑ po temperamentu prgavac, svaalica… ∑ imao posla. Slika je doπla iz milanske Pinakoteke Brere, gdje se Ëuva. Zanimljivo je takoer da je sliku s istim motivom Caravaggio naslikao 1600. u Rimu, gdje je veÊ tada bio najslavniji slikar. Ta, uvjetno reËeno, prva verzija nalazi se u fundusu Nacionalne galerije u Londonu.

Za Crkvu, a i πiroku kulturnu i umjetniËku javnost, Caravaggio se pojavio u pravo vrijeme i kao spasitelj umjetnosti. Naime, u 16. i 17. st. sagraene su mnoge crkve koje je trebalo oslikati. Crkvenu protureformaciju aktualni manirizam viπe nije zadovoljavao pa je Caravaggio svojim drastiËnim realizmom otvorio sebi πirom vrata. Mnogi su ga i odbijali, smatrajuÊi ga vulgarnim i u slikarstvu i u æivotu. Ali, Caravaggio je bio takav: nemiran, neobuzdan, nepokoran, razuzdan i, dakako, veoma prijek i neobiËan. Na primjer, na Malti

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je spavao odjeven i s maËem za pojasom. Onamo je otiπao da bi preko malteπkog reda i njihova utjecaja na papu uspio dobiti oprost i vratiti se u Rim, srediπte umjetnosti. ©toviπe, postao je malteπkim vitezom, no brzo nakon toga oduzeta mu je ta Ëast zbog kavgi i zatvora, u kojem se i prije Ëesto nalazio. Razloæno je pitanje je li se Caravaggio, kao vjernik, pokajao za zlodjelo, ili se, jednostavno, samo htio vratiti u Rim, na svoju pozornicu. Godine 1610. bio se Ëak i zaputio brodom u Rim kako bi od novoga pape dobio oprost za ubojstvo, ali na putu na nj je izvrπen atentat, pri Ëemu mu je stradalo lice. Za ravnatelja Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt, povjesniËara umjetnosti Miroslava GaπparoviÊa, Caravaggio ∑ taj Ëudak koji je otvorio put modernom slikarstvu, iako mu je karijera trajala tek deset godina ∑ nije samo zaËetnik baroknog slikarstva. Caravaggio je bio jedan od najznaËajnijih europskih slikara koji je u svoje vrijeme, svojim naturalizmom, paænjom prema detaljima, osvjetljenjem slike i nizom drugih inovacija u smislu tehnike, revolucionirao slikarstvo tako snaæno kako je to uËinio, recimo, Picasso u 20. stoljeÊu ∑ kaæe Miroslav GaπparoviÊ. ∑ Da nije bilo Caravaggia, ne bi, vjerojatno, bilo ni Rubensa, Jana Vermeera, Rembrandta i Velázqueza, koji su bili pod njegovim utjecajem ∑ nastavio je GaπparoviÊ, objasnivπi nastanak tako znaËajne izloæbe, zapravo izloæbe jedne slike, koju Êe, po muzejskoj koncepciji, inkorporirati u svoj stalni postav, malo, dakako, prilagoen. ∑ Tako Êe posjetitelji uz Caravaggia moÊi vidjeti i znaËajna djela iz muzejskog fundusa, jer primarna je misija naπeg muzeja da prezentiramo i promiËemo hrvatsku umjetnost. Uz to, valja naglasiti da je izloæena slika dar Ministarstva vanjskih poslova Republike Italije za ulazak Hrvatske u Europsku uniju, a nastala je na poticaj talijanske veleposlanice u Hrvatskoj Nj. E. gospoe Emanuele D’Alessandro, koja se i privatno uvelike angaæirala oko osiguranja i transporta slike, kao i kataloga izloæbe. n

he Supper at Emmaus, a Baroque masterpiece, is exhibited at Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts between 5 June and 22 August 2013. It was painted by Italian painter Michelangelo Merisi, better known as Caravaggio, which is the name he probably adopted to honour the village close to Milan where he was born in 1571. At an estimated value of 100 million Euro, this painting is one of the most expensive pieces of art ever to be exhibited not only in Zagreb, but also Croatia. 20

The painter was inspired by a Biblical story found in the Gospel of Luke. The story is set in a time following Jesus’s death and resurrection, when two of his disciples were on their way back to their native Emmaus which, according to Luke, was 60 stadia (i.e., approximately 11 kilometres) away from Jerusalem. Along the way, they were talking downheartedly about Christ’s Passion. They were joined by a stranger who started talking to them so openly that the Christian disciples invited him to supper in Emmaus. It was only when the stranger broke bread and then disappeared that they realised that the stranger had been the resurrected Jesus. Caravaggio painted the Supper at Emmaus in 1606 while fleeing Rome for having been blackmailed after having killed a young man in a duel. The man he killed was, in fact, a pimp to a prostitute who Caravaggio, reputed as a quarrelsome and short-tempered man, allegedly had dealings with. The painting arrived in Zagreb from its abode at the Academy of Fine Arts of Brera. Interestingly enough, Caravaggio painted another version of the same painting in 1600 in Rome, where he was already recognised as the most famous painter. The first version, as it were, is now in the holdings of the National Gallery in London. As far as the Catholic Church, and the cultural and artistic public at large are concerned, Caravaggio emerged as the saviour of art at exactly the right time. In the 16 th and 17th centuries, many churches were erected and needed to be decorated, but 16 th century Mannerism no longer satisfi ed the needs of the Counter Reformation movement. There entered Caravaggio with his drastic realism and doors opened wide for him. At the same time, many turned him down, believing him to be vulgar both in art and in life. Indeed, that was Caravaggio: restless, unbridled, insubordinate, raucous, and certainly quick-tempered and odd-mannered. In Malta, for instance, he slept fully dressed with a sword at his belt. He had gone there to curry favour with the Order of Malta and, through their infl uence, to get the Pope to pardon him so he could return to Rome, the centre of art. He was even received into the Order as a Knight of Justice, but that was short-lived. Constant frays took him to prison, much like before, which was why he was divested of the title. We have every right to wonder whether Caravaggio, a religious man, repented or whether he simply wanted to return to Rome and rule the art scene there. In 1610, he even set out for Rome on a sailing boat to

ask the new Pope’s pardon for the murder he had committed. Unfortunately, during the journey, there was an attempt at his life which left him badly disﬁ gured. According to historian Miroslav GaπparoviÊ, the Director of the Museum of Arts and Craf ts, Caravaggio, the eccentric who paved the way for modern painting during his short, ten-year-long career, was not only the founder of the Baroque style in painting, but also one of the leading European painters who introduced naturalism, attention to detail, light and a host of other technical novelties into painting. Caravaggio, thus, revolutionised painting just as powerfully as, for example, Picasso did in the 20 th century. ∑ Without Caravaggio, we would, in all likelihood, not have Rubens, Jan Vermeer, Rembrandt or Velasquez, all strongly inﬂuenced by him, continues GaπparoviÊ, explaining what makes this one-painting exhibition so important. Following the Museum’s concept, the painting is incorporated into the Museum’s permanent exhibition, which will be slightly adapted to suit the occasion. ∑ In addition to Caravaggio’s masterpiece, visitors will also be able to see some important pieces of art from our own collection because our main mission is to present and promote Croatian art. It should also be said that the exhibited painting is a gift from the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs, marking the occasion of Croatia’s accession to the European Union. The person behind the idea is the Italian Ambassador to Croatia, HE Ms. Emanuela D’Alessandro, who has personally invested a lot of effort into arranging the painting’s transport, its insurance and catalogue preparation. n

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■ MUZEJI MUSEUMS

Piše/By Ana Škegro, Janko Ivaniπ

Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir Fabijanić

Ovoga ljeta ne morate putovati preko oceana kako biste vidjeli remek-djelo iz slavnog Muzeja moderne umjetnosti (MoMA) u New Yorku. Dovoljno je proπetati do Novog Zagreba i posjetiti Muzej suvremene umjetnosti (MSU), koji otvara vrata retrospektivnoj izloæbi Miroslava ©uteja, jednoga od najvaænijih hrvatskih umjetnika druge polovine 20. stoljeÊa, a ujedno i prvi put ugoπÊuje sliku Bombardiranje oËnog æivca II (1963.) u Hrvatskoj nakon πto ju je davne 1965. otkupila MoMA. This summer, you do not have to travel across the ocean to see a masterpiece from New York’s famous Museum of Modern Art (MoMa). Instead, simply stroll over to Novi Zagreb and visit the Museum of Contemporary Art, which is staging a retrospective exhibition of works by Miroslav ©utej, one of the most inﬂuential Croatian artists of the second half of the 20th century. This summer the Zagreb Museum of Contemporary Art is hosting ©utej’s painting Bombardment of the Optic Nerve II from 1963 for the ﬁrst time since it was acquired by MoMA in New York City in 1965.

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av nosti moæda najpoznatiji kao dizajner hrvatskoga grba i novËanica kune, Miroslav ©utej roen je 1936. godine u Dugoj Resi. Studirao je na Akademiji likovnih umjetnosti u Zagrebu, na kojoj je 1961. i diplomirao, a pozornost meunarodne publike privukao je veÊ 1963. nastupom na Biennaleu mladih u Parizu, osvojivπi ondje prvu nagradu za slikarstvo. Od prvog izlaganja radova 1960. pa sve do prerane smrti 2005. godine, izlagao je na mnognim samostalnim i skupnim izloæbama diljem svijeta, a njegovi su radovi izloæeni u svjetskim muzejima i galerijama, kao πto su The Museum of Modern Art (New York), Tate Gallery te Victoria and Albert Museum (London), Universalmuseum Joanneum (Graz),

Brigestone Museum of Art (Tokio), Stedelijk Museum (Amsterdam), Ho-Am Art Museum (Seoul) i mnogi drugi. Osim preko umjetniËkih djela, svoj talent i znanje ©utej je podijelio s naraπtajima studenata djelujuÊi kao profesor na zagrebaËkoj Akademiji likovnih umjetnosti i kao suosnivaË Akademije likovnih umjetnosti u ©irokom Brijegu. Retrospektivna izloæba u MSU osmiπljena je kao multidisciplinaran i sveobuhvatan prikaz ©utejeva stvaralaπtva, koje se tijekom gotovo pola stoljeÊa neprekidno razvijalo u istraæivanjima novih podruËja izraæavanja, ali zadræavajuÊi uvijek jednaku dozu intenziteta i individualnosti. Meu nekoliko stotina radova moÊi Êe se vidjeti raspon od ﬁgurativnih crteæa iz mladosti, izvrsnih op-artistiËkih djela, nevje-

rojatno inventivnih mobilnih graﬁka i skulptura, preko niza ciklusa u razliËitim disciplinama poput reljefa s puπËanim zrnima, kolaæa nadahnutih folk umjetnoπÊu, revolucionarnih nacrta za odjevne predmete nazvanih anti-moda do njegovih posljednjih ciklusa poput Aura, inspiriranih kineskom umjetnoπÊu. Osobito su zanimljivi i radovi koji stiæu iz Universalmuseuma Joanneuma u Grazu, objekti cvijeÊe i stolci, uz pomoÊ kojih Êe se prvi put izvesti rekonstrukcije ©utejevih pop-art instalacija i ambijenata nastalih 60-ih i 70-ih godina za potrebe izloæaba Trigon odræavanih u Grazu. Miroslav ©utej deﬁnitivno je umjetnik koji Êe vas iznenaditi, oduπeviti, zaintrigirati te bombardirati oblicima i bojama. Stoga obvezatno posjetite ovu izloæbu dok ste u Zagrebu,

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rezervirajte ulaznicu na vrijeme, dogovorite posjet uz tematsko vodstvo na hrvatskome ili engleskom jeziku, kako biste od struËnih edukatora MSU-a saznali neπto viπe o æivotu i radu tog svestranog umjetnika i vizionara koji je veÊ generacijama nadahnuÊe mnogima. Izloæba se otvara u danima pristupanja Hrvatske Europskoj uniji te se ravnateljica mr. sc. Snjeæana PintariÊ, autorica izloæbe, nada da Êe se upravo tom izloæbom Muzej na najbolji naËin predstaviti posjetiteljima koji u povodu toga dolaze u Hrvatsku − Miroslav ©utej jedan je od niza hrvatskih autora koji je cijeli æivot djelovao u domovini, ali svojom je umjetnoπÊu bio potpuno ukljuËen u europska i svjetska zbivanja na likovnoj sceni. n

Zagreb Academy of Fine Arts as lecturer, and as co-founder of the Academy of Fine Arts in ©iroki Brijeg. The retrospective exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art has been conceived as a multidisciplinary and comprehensive display of ©utej’s oeuvre, which continually developed in new directions over almost half a century, whilst permanently maintaining an equal dose of intensity and individuality. The several hundreds of works on display will include ﬁgurative drawings from the artist’s youth, several excellent works of op-art, remarkably inventive mobile graphic art works

iroslav ©utej, perhaps best known to the public as the designer of the Croatian emblem and the Croatian banknotes, was born in 1936 in Duga Resa. He studied at the Academy of Fine Arts in Zagreb, from which he graduated in 1961. It did not take long before he attracted the attention of international audiences. During the Third Paris Biennale of Young Artists in 1963, he won the ﬁrst prize for painting. From his ﬁrst exhibition in 1960 to his premature death in 2005, he mounted numerous solo and group exhibitions worldwide, and his works are featured in prestigious museums and galleries all over the globe, including MoMa (New York), Tate Modern, and Victoria and Albert Museum (London), Universalmuseum Joanneum (Graz), Bridgestone Museum of Art (Tokio), Stedelijk Museum (Amsterdam), Ho-Am Art Museum (Seoul) and many others. Besides through his artwork, he also shared his knowledge and talent with many generations of students he taught at the CROATIA AIRLINES

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and sculptures, as well as a series of cycles in different techniques such as shotgun pellet reliefs, collages inspired by folk art, revolutionary clothing designs called anti-fashion, and his latest works, including the Aura cycle inspired by Chinese art. ©utej’s works borrowed from the Universalmuseum Joanneum in Graz are worth singling out − objects, flowers and chairs which will be used for the first time in reconstructing ©utej’s pop art installations he presented at the Trigon exhibitions held in Graz during the 1960s and 1970s. Miroslav ©utej’s art is bound to surprise, enthral, intrigue and bombard with shapes and colours, so be sure not to miss this exhibition whilst in Zagreb. Reserve your ticket on time, arrange a guided tour in Croatian or English, and find out more about this versatile artist and visionary, whose life and work have been a source of inspiration for many generations. Since the exhibition opens in the days preceding Croatia’s accession to the European Union, Ms. Snjeæana PintariÊ, M.A., director of the Museum and author of the exhibition, is hoping that this exhibition will best present the Museum to visitors arriving to Croatia for the occasion. Miroslav ©utej is one of many artists who had never worked anywhere else but in their native Croatia, but whose art was and remains deeply involved in the European and global art scene. n

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■ BAŠTINA HERITAGE

IN CROATIA

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Piπe/By Dubravka Belas

Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ, HTZ (D. FabijaniÊ)

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DIOKLECIJANOVA PALAČA THE PALACE OF DIOCLETIAN

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NekoÊ davno, francuski je pisac i dramatiËar Jules Renard rekao da na zemlji, doduπe, nema raja, ali zato ima njegovih djeliÊa. Hrvatska, mala zemlja s neπto viπe od Ëetiri i pol milijuna stanovnika, na Unescovu listu svjetske baπtine upisala je sedam svojih znamenitosti: PlitviËka jezera, Stari grad Dubrovnik, Starogradsko polje na otoku Hvaru, Dioklecijanovu palaËu, romaniËki grad Trogir, katedralu u ©ibeniku i Eufrazilijevu baziliku u PoreËu. CROATIA AIRLINES

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KATEDRALA SV. JAKOVA U ŠIBENIKU THE CATHEDRAL OF ST JAMES IN ©IBENIK

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Once upon a time, French writer and dramatist Jules Renard said that on earth there was no heaven but there were pieces of it. Croatia, a small land with slightly over four and a half million inhabitants, boasts no less than seven entries on the UNESCO list: Plitvice Lakes, the Old City of Dubrovnik, Stari Grad Plain on the Island of Hvar, Diocletian’s Palace, the Historic City of Trogir, the Cathedral in ©ibenik and the Euphrasian Basilica in PoreË. CROATIA AIRLINES

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NACIONALNI PARK PLITVIČKA JEZERA PLITVICE LAKES NATIONAL PARK

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POVIJESNA JEZGRA TROGIRA HISTORIC CITY OF TROGIR

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EUFRAZIJEVA BAZILIKA U POREČU EUPHRASIAN BASILICA IN POREČ

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STARI GRAD DUBROVNIK OLD CITY OF DUBROVNIK

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ekoÊ davno, francuski je pisac i dramatiËar Jules Renard rekao da na zemlji, doduπe, nema raja, ali zato ima njegovih djeliÊa. Nije poznato je li taj ljubitelj prirode ikad posjetio PlitviËka jezera, ali svi koji jesu, sloæit Êe se da upravo tako mora izgledati rajski imaginarij. ©esnaest jezera u jedinstvenoj niski obrubljenoj πumom, æivom zelenom katedralom, dio su obitelji velikih svjetskih prirodnih Ëuda. Priroda, taj nedostiæni majstor, ni ovdje se nikamo ne æuri, a ipak svuda stiæe i dovrπava svaki posao. U tiπini se smjenjuju sunce, mjesec i zvijezde ponad jezera, zelenih gorskih oËiju, u tiπini rastu paprat i stabla, otvaraju se i venu cvjetovi, a tiπinu u kojoj, dok se opiru struji, lelujaju oprezne pastrve posute crnim i crvenim pjegama, remeti samo prπtavi huk slapova. Vodenom masom te bezbrojne slapove opskrbljuju Bijela i Crna rijeka, ujedinjujuÊi se u Maticu pa, vezujuÊi se dalje s drugim vodama, slijevaju u bistru Koranu πto izvire u podnoæju. Kaskade se prostiru zraËnom duæinom veÊom od pet kilometara, obrasle su sedrotvornom mahovinom i algama, a komplicirana geoloπka struktura propuπta vodene tokove kroz vapnenaËke stijene ili zadræava jezera na onima nepropusnima. Procjenjuje se da su aktivne sedrene barijere stare izmeu πest i sedam tisuÊa godina. A kako uvijek postoji opasnost da njihov rast bude ugroæen nastanu li promjene u procesu osedravanja, Unesco je joπ 1979. stavio Plitvice na popis zaπtiÊene svjetske baπtine, obrazlaæuÊi to njihovom izvanrednom prirodnom ljepotom i nesmetanom tvorbom travertina kemijskim i bioloπkim djelovanjem. No nisu samo zbog jezera i slapova Plitvice neponovljive ∑ to je æivot oËuvan u πumama bukve, jele i bijeloga bora koje ih okruæuju ∑ pravo æivotinjsko carstvo risa, srne, mrkog medvjeda, vuka, kune, vidre, viπe od 150 vrsta ptica i tristotinjak vrsta danjih i noÊnih leptira. Na relativno malom podruËju zabiljeæeno je raskoπnih 1267 biljnih vrsta, od endemskih biljaka, prvi put opisanih upravo na podruËju parka, poput uskolisnog zvonca (Edraianthus tenuifolius), æabnjaka kolovrca (Ranunculus scutatu), te livadnog procjepka (Scilla litardierei) preko kukurijeka i neoËekivanih malih karnivora do najljepπe europske orhideje, gospine papuËice (Cypripedium calceolus). Bioloπkoj raznolikosti dodatno pridonose prava praπuma - »orkova uvala i tresetna LjeskovaËka bara. Da je vrijednost i krhkost ovog prostora bila prepoznata odavno, svjedoËi to πto je veÊ u 19. stoljeÊu, neposredno prije no πto je ovdje sagraen prvi hotel, osnovan Odbor za oËuvanje PlitviËkih jezera, iz kojega je stasala kasnija uprava Nacionalnog parka, prvoga u juænoj Europi i najveÊega u Hrvatskoj. Teπko je reÊi

kad je najbolje vrijeme za posjet Plitvicama ∑ u proljeÊe ili ljeto kad πuma diπe dubokim zelenilom, ili u jesen, kad se liπÊe tako zarumeni da se Ëini kako jezerska voda gasi πume u plamenu, ili zimi, kad utihnu i slapovi i zamrznu se u ﬁligransku ledenu Ëipku, a svi se oblici zaguπe i zaoble djeviËanskom bjelinom snijega. Ova mala hrvatska zemlja, Ëudnog oblika dekapitirane boæice pobjede iz predvorja Louvrea, onako u letu, tanke u struku, s haljama koje vjetar pokreta zanosi unatrag, ova mala zemlja s neπto viπe od Ëetiri i pol milijuna stanovnika, na Unescovu listu svjetske baπtine upisala je, uz jezera, joπ πest svojih znamenitosti. One nisu dar prirode poput PlitviËkih jezera, nego plod smisla za sklad i ljepotu i, nadasve, vrijednih ruku predaka. Prvi meu πest jednakih neka bude stari kameni grad Dubrovnik. Kako su ga starosjedioci nazivali, samo - Grad. Grad nad gradovima. Prikazan na dlanu svog zaπtitnika, svetoga Vlaha, opasan najsnaænijim bedemom od svih dalmatinskih gradova, uglavnom je, uz kraÊe prekide, uspio oËuvati netaknutom slobodu DubrovaËke Republike. Bude tako i u nedavnome ratu, kad su mu ljepotu topovima kuπali razoriti suvremeni vandali, unatoË zaπtiti koju donose Unescove zastave, viËuÊi da Êe ga, kad ga jednom osvoje, sagraditi joπ ljepπega i starijega. Plamtjele su raskoπne palaËe, osipao se kamen i prπtale razbijene kupe po kamenim ploËama uglaËanima milijardama koraka. Grad je to zbog kojeg je pisca KatunariÊa morilo grizoduπje i bojazan da mu je srce kameno, jer mu se kadπto Ëinilo da bi lakπe podnio smrt tisuÊu ljudi nego slom Dubrovnika... Znate li onaj osjeÊaj kad razgledate slike mjesta i gradova koje æelite posjetiti pa budete razoËarani kad se ondje doista naete i vidite pravu stvar? E pa, to vam se zacijelo neÊe dogoditi s Dubrovnikom. Grad bude ljepπi od svega πto ste oËekivali, i niπta ne moæe pomutiti kamenu Ëaroliju kad jednom uete kroz oËuvana drevna vrata. Ulice sazdane od stuba spuπtaju se s najniæih padina Sra, planine u zaleu koja ga πtiti od bure, sve do samoga mora, iz Ëijih mu grebena izrastaju zidine. Kameni bedemi zidani od 13. stoljeÊa dugi su neπto manje od dva kilometra, a prema kopnu πiroki do πest metara. Na sve Ëetiri strane svijeta sagraeni su masivni tornjevi i tvrave. Lovrijenac, simbol otpora Mlecima, pod kojim se, Ëetrdesetak metara duboko dolje, razbijaju bijesni valovi, danas je najljepπa pozornica na kojoj se prikazuje Hamlet, otkrile su odavno DubrovaËke ljetne igre. Na zapadu je i Bokar, na istoku Revelin, Sv. Ivan za zaπtitu stare gradske luke, monumentalna MinËeta, djelo Jurja Dalmatinca... U tome se ograniËenom prostoru stisnulo i graanskih kuÊa i gosparskih palaËa, u pravilnom rasteru,

s osjeÊajem za red, za mjeru, za zajedniπtvo. Naπlo se u toj kamenoj koπnici mjesta i za katedralu i joπ desetak katoliËkih crkava, a i za jednu pravoslavnu, za jedan mesdæid i za sinagogu. Katedrala potjeËe iz 13. stoljeÊa i navodno je sagraena novcem Rikarda Lavljeg Srca, koji je 1192. kod Lokruma doæivio brodolom. I sve su te crkve i palaËe i javne zgrade povezane glatkim sjajnim ulicama s bezbroj stuba koje dodatno izduæuju vitke i osunËane djevojaËke listove. Kneæev dvor, u Ëijem se atriju danas odræavaju koncerti, a nekad je bio sjediπte dubrovaËke vlade, s uklesanim natpisom Obliti privatorum, publica curate (Zaboravite privatno, brinite se za javno), koji ni danas ne bi bilo zgorega izvjesiti na zgrade javne uprave. PalaËa Sponza, moæda najljepπa u Dubrovniku, nekadaπnja carinarnica i kovnica novca. Orlandov stup s poËetka 15. stoljeÊa, posveÊen srednjovjekovnom literarnom liku Rolandu stup je slobode, simbol nezavisnosti i otpora, ali po potrebi bio je i stup sramote. Duljina lakta na Orlandovoj desnoj ruci nazivala se u trgovaËkom Dubrovniku dubrovaËkim laktom i iznosila 51,2 cm. Onofrijeve Ëesme, velika i mala na suprotnim stranama Straduna, zvonik sa zelencima - dvama mitskim bronËanim ratnicima, pozelenjelima od patine, dvama mehaniËkim jacquemartima koji su Ëetiri stotine godine udarali o zvono na gradskom zvoniku, a bili su postavljeni godinama prije Mora na gradskom zvoniku suparniËke Venecije s druge strane Jadrana. Uz franjevaËki samostan s lijepim i skladnim klaustrom i danas je, od 1317. godine, otvorena apoteka, treÊa po starosti u Europi, a svakako najstarija koja nikada nije prekinula s radom. Iz nje se Ëesto po Stradunu, kod destilacije, πiri zamaman miris ruæine vodice pa vas navede da uete u ljekarnu i kad vam ne treba lijeka... Stalo je joπ u Dubrovnik vrtova i zelenila, ardina koji se najbolje vide sa zidina, s palmama i stablima slatkih i ljutih naranËi, limuna, badema, rogaËa, nara - plodovima kakve i teæaci iz okolice donose na trænicu, uz artiËoke, treπnje, smokve, domaÊi med i ukusan seljaËki sir. Na trænici se, uz to, u rane jutarnje sate uz kriπku limuna mogu kuπati i najsvjeæije kamenice, tek pristigle iz Stona. Krenemo li obalom dalje od Dubrovnika, sljedeÊe na Unescovoj listi jest Starogradsko polje na otoku Hvaru. U zaleu starogrËkog naselja Pharos, danaπnjega pitoresknog Starigrada sagraenoga u dnu duboke, zaπtiÊene uvale, geometrijskom pravilnoπÊu koja se najbolje zapaæa iz ptiËje perspektive, iscrtane su 73 zemljiπne parcele prije viπe od 2400 godina. Plodno polje proteæe se u duljini od nekih πest kilometara i prosjeËne je πirine dva kilometra. Parcelacija nekadaπnje grËke agrarne kolonije iz 4. stoljeÊa prije Krista CROATIA AIRLINES

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najbolje je, u Ëitavome Sredozemlju, oËuvan primjer staroga tradicijskog krajolika, manje ugroæenoga intervencijama u prostoru, a viπe napuπtanjem seoskog æivota i tradicionalnog naËina obrade zemlje. Suhozidi kojima je parcelacija trajno zabiljeæena, kroz tisuÊljeÊa stalno su obnavljani i danas je, bez obzira na brojne kasnije dodatne podjele unutar hore, osnovna struktura glavnih mea ostala identiËna onima koje su odreivali i dodjeljivali grËki kolonisti. Na polju su se tijekom stoljeÊa, od prapovijesti do srednjega vijeka, taloæili slojevi razliËitih kultura, pa se tu krije viπe od stotinu arheoloπkih lokaliteta. Suhozidi su ponegdje tek ograda izmeu dviju Ëestica, a drugdje, po pravilu na grËkim geodetskim meama, πiroki do tri metra pa su sluæili i kao putovi. Velike su antikne parcele u meuvremenu ispresijecane novim suhozidima, ali Ëak su i poljoprivredne kulture ostale iste: najviπe je vinove loze i maslina, lavande i ruæmarina, poneπto ljutike i artiËoke, smokve i rogaËa na rubnim podruËjima. Na mnogim su posjedima suhozidnom tehnikom sagraeni trimi i teze, poljske kuÊice za zaklon od vremenskih nepogoda i mjesta za Ëuvanje alata, gustirne za prikupljanje kiπnice, i japnenice za pravljenje vapna, ali pronaeni su i tragovi rimske ville rustice Kupinovik i starogrËke kule Maslinovik, te starohrvatskih crkvica. Danas je Starogradsko polje æivi rezervat s jedinstvenim bonusom ∑ od antiËkih vremena nije se znaËajnije promijenio. Na obali, na manje od dva sata plovidbe od Staroga grada, nalazi se Split ∑ Ëiji su srednjovjekovni dio i kasnoantiËka palaËa rimskoga cara Dioklecijana sljedeÊe ime na Unescovoj listi. Razlog: oËuvanost cjeline i izvornih dijelova jednoga od najvaænijih djela kasnorimske arhitekture. Gaj Aurelije Valerije Dioklecijan u svome rodnom kraju odluËio je sagraditi ljetnikovac u koji Êe se povuÊi kad dovrπi dræavniËke poslove. Radovi na palaËi s elementima castruma ∑ rimskoga vojniËkog logora, poËeli su u 3. stoljeÊu. Opasana zidinama, s pravokutnim utvrdama na uglovima i trima vratima s kopnene, jednima s morske strane, i dvije glavne ulice, cardo i decumanus. PalaËa je podijeljena na dva dijela, juæni za carsku obitelj i sjeverni sa zgradama za poslugu, skladiπta i straæu. Cardo je od glavnoga ulaza, Zlatnih vrata, vodio do Peristila, s osmerokutnim carevim mauzolejem, odakle se vestibulom ulazilo u carski stan. PalaËa, graena od kvalitetnog kamena, ukraπena je talijanskim mramorom, egipatskim stupovima i sﬁngama, klesanim detaljima uvezenim s otoka u Mramornome moru. Arhitektura palaËe nema presedana u dotadaπnjoj klasiËnoj gradnji, a umjerenost i ËistoÊu antiËkih oblika prevladava sklonost bujnoj raskoπi. Kad nekoliko kilometara udaljena 56

Salona, dotad glavni grad provincije Dalmacije, u sedmom stoljeÊu padne pred prodorom avarskih i slavenskih plemena, njezino se krπÊansko stanovniπtvo povlaËi unutar zidina carske palaËe. Gradsko se tkivo zguπnjava, na slobodnim se prostorima trgova, ulica i trijemova grade kamene kuÊe, palaËa pretvara u urbani prostor. Na mjestu mauzoleja cara, notornoga najokrutnijeg progonitelja krπÊana u povijesti, izrast Êe katedrala, najstarija u Hrvatskoj, tvrde i u svijetu, u koju Êe se poloæiti kosti nebeskog zaπtitnika grada, za Ëije je muËeniπtvo i tragiËnu smrt kriv upravo car Dioklecijan. Uz katedralu sagradit Êe se i romaniËki zvonik sv. Dujma, a on Êe svojom visinom dominirati nad ovom neobiËnom palaËomgradom. U unutraπnjosti same stolnice vidljive su izrezbarene drvene vratnice od orahovine iz 1214. godine, rijetko dobro oËuvana vrata iz toga razdoblja, rad majstora Andrije Buvine, a prikazuju 28 prizora Isusova æivota. I majstor Juraj Dalmatinac u 15. stoljeÊu sudjelovao je u gradnji stolnice ∑ potpisuje oltar posveÊen sv. Anastaziju, suzaπtitniku grada, ali i neke od gradskih palaËa sagraene po uzoru na venecijanske. ©esterokutna propovjedaonica izraena je od crvenoga i zelenog porﬁra za koje se pretpostavlja da potjeËu od uniπtenoga carskog sarkofaga i tako se dosljedno i temeljito dovrπava ova krπÊanska rekonkvista. U katedrali se Ëuva Splitski evanelistar iz 7. stoljeÊa, najstariji iluminirani rukopis na pergamentu. Æivot u golemoj i raskoπnoj palaËi evoluirao je polako, stalnim pritjecanjem novih stanovnika, u æivot pravoga grada i odræao kontinuitet tog æivota posljednjih 17 stoljeÊa, postavπi modelom urbane kulture istoËnoga Jadrana. Na njegovim se proËeljima, na malome prostoru, ogledaju stilska obiljeæja: kasne antike, ranoga srednjeg vijeka, gotike, renesanse, baroka, stilova 19. i 20. stoljeÊa. I sve na prostoru trajnoga i stvarnog æivota koji se tu odvija ∑ od izvjeπena rublja, tih bijelih mediteranskih zastava razapetih s jedne na drugu stranu uskih kaleta, od kuÊa, stanova, hotela ugraenih u zidine palaËe, do stolova kaféa i restorana na ploËnicima, πto usporava πetaËe. Upravo je zbog te æivosti i guæve, pomalo skuËen æivot u spomeniku toliko puta izmijenjena oblika i svrhe, jedinstven, zanimljiv, ali i ranjiv. Sedamdesetak kilometara sjeverozapadno od Splita nalazi se ©ibenik, kameni ljepotan hrvatske obale, s katedralom sv. Jakova, joπ jednim remek-djelom s Unescove liste. I doista, katedrala je jedinstveni spomenik europskoga sakralnoga graditeljstva, ujedno najznaËajnije graditeljsko ostvarenje 15. i 16. stoljeÊa u Hrvatskoj. IstiËe se ne samo svojom ljepotom i monumentalnoπÊu, nego i paletom stilskih

obiljeæja i konstrukcijskim osobitostima. Naime, rijeË je o jedinoj katedrali na europskom tlu koja je sagraena iskljuËivo od kamena i mramora, bez drvenih i ciglenih konstruktivnih elemenata i bez uporabe vezivne æbuke. Prvi se put upravo ovdje gradi po naËelu utorenih ploËa ∑ naËin gradnje koji se nigdje drugdje ne primjenjuje sve do 19. stoljeÊa. Mnoga su rjeπenja, od graditeljskih do dekorativnih, posve jedinstvena ∑ najuoËljiviji je friz, kakvoga nema ni na kojem sakralnom spomeniku u Europi, od 71 portretne skulpture ljudskih glava i tri lavlje. Ti kameni portreti fasciniraju izraæajnoπÊu i individualiziranoπÊu te su vjeran prikaz, u prirodnoj veliËini, suvremenika Jurja Dalmatinca, uz Nikolu Firentinca koji nakon njegove smrti dovrπava zapoËeto, najznaËajnijega graditelja katedrale. Nikola Firentinac sagradio je i njezinu kupolu. Kako je gradnja trajala viπe od stotinu godina, na katedrali je razvidan slijed triju razliËitih stilova: gotiËkoga, mjeπovitoga gotiËko-renesansnoga i renesansnoga. Tako je skladna, a kameni krov i kupola tako zanimljivi da se i ne zapaæa kako katedrala nema zvonika, preskupoga za maleni grad od osam tisuÊa stanovnika koliko je ©ibenik imao tijekom gradnje...Krstionica, sa svoja Ëetiri proroka u baldahinima, remek-djelo je kiÊene gotike i ruku majstora Jurja. Njegov spomenik danas, s trga ispred katedrale, s ËekiÊem u ruci, promatra svoje djelo i ljudsku rijeku koja ne moæe drugo no diviti se svim tim kamenim rozetama, puttima, πkoljkama, kamenom korskom namjeπtaju i mramornim girlandama, pilastrima, reljeﬁma i trolistima, a okamenjeni njegovi sugraani uzduæ apsida uzvraÊaju mu svoje poglede kao da su i danas æivi. Manje od pedeset kilometara dalje, na otoËiÊu pred samom obalom, nalazi se Trogir, oËaravajuÊi grad-muzej. Srednjovjekovni Trogir oblikovao se od 8. do 15. stoljeÊa na ortogonalnoj strukturi iz doba grËke kolonizacije. Unutar zidina, od kojih su danas saËuvani tornjevi sv. Marka i Kamerlengo, po kojima je grad izdaleka prepoznatljiv, krije se bogatstvo romaniËkih crkava, renesansnih i baroknih svjetovnih zdanja, a najznaËajnija je od svih trogirska katedrala s Radovanovim portalom, draguljem romaniËko-gotiËke umjetnosti u Hrvatskoj. Uete li u grad kroz kasnorenesansna sjeverna vrata, kolopletom uskih uliËica neponovljive mediteranske draæesti, stiÊi Êete do glavnoga trga, na kojemu se nalazi i gradska loæa iz 15. stoljeÊa uz koju se diæe gradski toranj sa satom. Iza loæe malena je crkvica sv. Barbare iz 11. stoljeÊa, saËuvana u izvornom obliku. Na drugoj strani trga nalazi se katedrala sv. Lovre sa zvonikom, najmonumentalnija romaniËka katedrala u Dalmaciji. Njezina se gradnja protegla stoljeÊima i saæeti je presjek

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theatre classical music opera ballet jazz exhibitions folklore film www.dubrovnik-festival.hr web shop and tickets dubrovnik.festival info@dubrovnik-festival.hr Tel. +385 (0)20 326 100 Fax +385 (0)20 326 116

Ä&#x152;lan Europske udruge festivala od 1956. Member of the European Festivals Association since 1956 CROATIA AIRLINES

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STARIGRADSKO POLJE STARI GRAD PLAIN

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stilova: najveÊim dijelom sagraena u romaniËkom stilu, s gotiËkim svodom, i prvim katom njezina zvonika. Drugi je oblikovan u cvjetnoj gotici, a treÊi kat s Ëetvrtim, piramidalnim zavrπetkom ukraπenim skulpturama, u stilu manirizma. Iako su na gradnji sudjelovali majstori poput Andrije Aleπija ili Nikole Firentinca, najdomljiviji srednjovjekovni portal u ovom dijelu Europe sagradio je majstor Radovan potpisavπi se s per Raduanum u podnoæje lunete. I opet, s obiljeæjima romaniËkog stila, primjer je i gotiËkoga realizma, ali s elementima renesanse, a u jednu baroknu niπu umetnut je gotiËki kip svetog Lovre, preuzet iz sruπene kapele sv. Ivana Trogirskog. Portal je prekriven skulpturama i reljeﬁma stotinjak likova te je najbogatiji i likovno najkvalitetniji spomenik srednjovjekovne skulpture u jugoistoËnoj Europi. ObuhvaÊa Prvi grijeh i Otkupljenje, æivot Kristov, pojedine svece i apostole, predoËuje mjesece i prizore lova... Renesansna kapela s uklesanim glavama u kasetiranom svodu, mramorni barokni tabernakuli, oltari, propovjedaonice i kipovi, sjajne palaËe. U to trogirsko obilje ljepote i raskoπi kao da su upleteni prsti najmlaega Zeusova sina, boga sretnog trenutka, Ëiji se reljef ovdje Ëuva u samostanu sv. Nikole. Kaæu kako se Kairos znao brzo i beπumno kretati meu ljudima, dajuÊi im priliku da ga dotaknu ili uhvate, da riskiraju, da iskoriste taj kratki Ëas prije nego πto nestane zauvijek. Poput samog æivota koji se treba usuditi proæivjeti nadilazeÊi vlastita ograniËenja. Kad nekoga toplog sutona budete, meu ostalim preplanulim i sretnim licima, πetali ljupkim trogirskim ulicama i trgovima, a iznad vas Ëiope, za koje kaæu da u letu i spavaju i pare se, budu ispuπtale svoje radosne kratke krikove, moæda spoznate da je veÊ to πto ste sada i ovdje na tome lijepome mjestu Kairosov blagoslov i znak da se sve posloæilo baπ kako treba... Nastavimo li dalje do Istre i PoreËa, upoznat Êemo ranokrπÊanski kompleks Eufrazijeve bazilike. RijeË je o Eufrazijani, katedralnom sklopu nazvanom po biskupu Eufraziju koji je sredinom 6. stoljeÊa, u vrijeme cara Justinijana I., pregradio i preuredio dotadaπnji sakralni objekt na istome mjestu. Bazilika je jedan od najljepπih saËuvanih primjeraka bizantske umjetnosti na Ëitavome Mediteranu. Uz baziliku, Eufrazijanu tvore æupna crkva, sakristija, cela trikora, krstionica, zvonik, Maurov oratorij. Poznati, autentiËni mozaici potjeËu iz 5. stoljeÊa, a u zbirci su spomenici i artefakti iz starokrπÊanskoga, ranobizantskoga i srednjovjekovnog razdoblja. Sjajni mozaici najljepπa su saËuvana djela bizantske umjetnosti. Dva glavna prikazuju Navjeπtenje i Vizitaciju, koja je umjetniËka rijetkost po sebi jer prikazuje trudnu Djevicu Mariju u susretu s Elizabetom. Hrvatski lokaliteti koje je Unesco proglasio dijelom svjetske kulturne baπtine nisu samo skup izloæaka ili zbroj spomenika, nego æivi, pulsirajuÊi gradski organizmi, nisu statiËno muzejsko skladiπte i mrtve zidine, nego stalno harmoniziranje povijesti i sadaπnjosti, stvaran i trajan susret s ljepotom i veliËinom ljudskog uma, nadarenosti i rada. ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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nce upon a time, French writer and dramatist Jules Renard said that there was no heaven on earth, but just pieces of it. Nobody knows whether the French nature lover had ever visited Plitvice Lakes, but all those who have will agree that this is precisely what a heavenly imaginarium must look like. The unique string of sixteen lakes surrounded by forests towering over them like a living green cathedral belongs to the family of the great natural wonders of the world. Nature is a supreme master. It is never in a rush, but it still reaches every corner of the world and brings every task to an end. The sun, the moon and the stars take their turn as they quietly appear above the lakes, which seem like the green eyes of the mountain. Ferns and trees grow in silence, flowers open and wilt, while only the splashing roar of the waterfalls disturbs the silence in which trout covered in black and red spots swim against the stream. The White and Black rivers supply myriad waterfalls with water. They merge into the Matica River and then having accumulated more water from little streams, they enter the translucent Korana River which has its source in the foothills. Cascades covered with the travertine-forming moss and algae spread over an area more than five kilometres long as the crow flies. A complicated geological structure lets the water seep through limestone rocks or allows the lakes to form above impervious bottoms. Active travertine barriers are estimated to be between six and seven thousand years old. Due to the ever present and imminent danger that their future development may become endangered by changes affecting the travertine barrier forming process, UNESCO placed Plitvice on its list of protected world heritage as early as 1979 so as to protect the park’s exquisite natural beauty and the process of the chemically and biologically induced travertine formation. However, it is not only the lakes and the waterfalls which make Plitvice unique. For thousands of years, life has throbbed in the 60

surrounding birch, fir and pine trees forests − a veritable animal kingdom featuring lynx, deer, bears, wolves, martens, otters, over 150 species of birds and some three hundred species of day and night butterflies. A total of 1267 plant species have been recorded in this relatively small area, including endemic plants, for example, rock bell (Edraianthus tenuifolius), creeping buttercup (Ranunculus scutatu) Dalmatian scilla (Scilla litardierei), hellebores and an unexpected number of small carnivores, as well as the most beautiful European orchid, the lady’s slipper orchid (Cypripedium calceolus). The veritable virgin forest and the quagmire LjeskovaËka Bara contribute to the biological diversity. The value and vulnerability of the area were recognized a long time ago as testified to by the fact that in the 19th century, just before the first hotel was developed, the Committee on the Preservation of Plitvice Lakes was set up, which later became the Administration of the National Park, the first in Southern Europe and the largest in Croatia. It is hard to say when is the best time to visit Plitvice − in spring or summer, when the green forest breaths deep, or in autumn when the foliage is so fiery red that the lake water seems to be there to put out forest fires, or in wintertime when the silent and frozen waterfalls resemble a filigree ice lace, and all shapes and forms are subdued and smoothened by the virginal whiteness of the snow. This small oddly-shaped Croatian land resembles the decapitated goddess of victory in the foyer of the Louvre; airborne, thin in the waist, with dresses swept back by the wind. This small land with slightly over four and a half million inhabitants boasts no less than seven entries on the UNESCO list, including the lakes. Unlike Plitvice Lakes, none of the others are a gift from nature, but rather the results of a propensity for harmony and beauty, and moreover, the fruit of our ancestors’ labours. As the first among the six equals, let us mention the old stone city of Dubrovnik, or just the City, as our forefathers used to call it. A city above all cities! Nestled snugly in the palm of its patron saint, St. Blaise, surrounded by the most powerful walls of all the Dalmatian cities, it used to be known as the Republic of Dubrovnik, a city-state that managed to maintain its freedom, with short interruptions, against all odds. The city-state’s history repeated during the most recent war when modern-day vandals tried to ravage its beauty with canon fire despite the prominently displayed UNESCO flags as clear sign of its patronage. All the while they shouted that once they prevailed they would rebuild it and make it even more beautiful and older than before. Luxurious palaces were

ablaze, building stones shattered while broken roof tiles littered the streets whose stone paving had been honed by billions of steps. The poet KatunariÊ was guilt ridden by his love for this city and a gnawing feeling that his heart was made of stone because he sometimes felt that he would ﬁnd it easier to bear the deaths of a thousand people than the destruction of Dubrovnik. Have you ever admired pictures of places and cities you wanted to visit and then felt nothing but disappointment once you got there and saw the real thing? Well, this is certainly not going to happen in Dubrovnik. Its beauty is beyond any expectation; once you enter the city through a well preserved wooden gate nothing can spoil the magic. From the lowest slopes of Sr, the mountain in the hinterland which protects the city from the bora wind, narrow streets made of stairs descend down to the sea, where the city wall seems to be growing from rocks strewn in it. The stone wall whose construction started in the 13th century is less than 2 kilometres long and up to 6 metres wide on the mainland side. Massive towers and bulwarks have been constructed on all four sides of the world. Lovrijenac, the symbol of resistance against the Venetians under which ferocious waves crush against the rocks, is the most beautiful stage for Hamlet, as was sussed out long ago by the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. The Fort Bokar is in the west, the Revelin Fortress in the east; the St. John Fortress protects the old harbour; the monumental MinËeta Tower was designed by Juraj Dalmatinac… The area is a restricted area so plebeian houses snuggle against patrician palaces, in a neat grid, showing respect for the sense of order, measure and community. In this stone beehive, room was found for a cathedral and a dozen more catholic churches, an orthodox church, a small mosque and a synagogue. The cathedral which dates back to the 13th century was allegedly funded by Richard the Lion Heart whose boat was shipwrecked near Lokrum. All the churches, palaces and public buildings are connected by smooth glittering streets and a myriad of steps which make slender suntanned girls’ legs look even longer. The atrium of the Rector’s Palace is where concerts take place nowadays. In the past, it was the seat of the Republic of Dubrovnik. The carved inscription: Obliti privatorum, publica curate, (Forget private affairs, take care of public ones) would not be out of place on public administration buildings even today. The Sponza Palace, perhaps the most beautiful in Dubrovnik, is the former custom’s building and a mint. Orlando’s Column, dating back to the early 15th century, is dedicated to the medieval literary character

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of Rolando. It is the column of liberty, a symbol of independence and resistance, but it also served as a pillar of shame when necessary. The length of Orlando’s arm from the elbow to the fingertips, the so called ell, equalled 51.2 cm and was a standard unit of measurement in commercial Dubrovnik. You can also admire Onofrio’s two fountains, a big one and a little one, one on each side of Stradun, and a bell tower with two mythical bronze warriors green from patina, two mechanical jacquemarts who were striking the city bell for four hundred years. At first, many years before Mori, they were posted on the town’s bell tower of the rival Venice, across the Adriatic Sea. The pharmacy, which was first opened for business in 1317, stands next to the Franciscan monastery with a beautiful claustrum. It is the third oldest pharmacy in Europe, and certainly the one with the longest history of uninterrupted operation. The tantalizing fragrance of rose water often whiffs across Stradun during distillation and lures you in even if you do not need any medicine. There was also room found in Dubrovnik for gardens and greenery, which can best be admired from the wall; there are palm trees as well as orange, lemon and almond trees, St. John’s wort, and pomegranate trees. Their fruit is brought to the market by the farmers from Dubrovnik’s countryside, together with artichokes, cherries, figs, honey and tasty farmer’s cheese. If you get up early and head for the market, you can taste Ston’s freshest oysters with a slice of lemon. Further up the coast from Dubrovnik, the next on UNESCO’s list is Stari Grad Plain on the island of Hvar in the hinterland of the ancient Greek city of Pharos, the modern-day picturesque Stari Grad which was developed in a deep and well protected bay. The plain’s geometric regularity can be best observed from a bird’s eye perspective. The surface is divided into a total of 73 plots of land which were measured and laid out over 2,400 years ago. The fertile field, which is two kilometres wide on average, stretches for six kilometres. 62

The cadastral division of a Greek agricultural colony which existed in the 4th century B.C. is the best preserved example of an old traditional landscape in the entire Mediterranean. It has suffered less from human interventions than from rural depopulation and the abandonment of traditional farming practices. The dry walls which bear testimony to the land division have constantly been reconstructed and rebuilt for millennia, so that even today, regardless of many subsequent alterations within the chora, the basic structure of the original boundaries remains identical to those which were defined and assigned by the Greek colonists. Layers of different cultures were piled one upon the other from prehistory to the Middle Ages which is why the field hides over a hundred archaeological localities. At places, the dry walls are just fences between two different plots of land, whereas elsewhere, usually along Greek geodesic boundaries, they are up to three metres wide and also used as pathways. Large ancient plots have been interspersed with new walls in the meantime, but even the initial crops have remained the same: mostly grapes and olives, lavender and rosemary, some shallots and artichokes, with figs and St. John’s wort on the outer edges. Many of the plots feature small stone houses which served as shelters from the elements or storage for tools, wells for collecting rainwater and kilns for lime production. There are also remains of the Roman villa rustica Kupinovik and the ancient Greek fort Maslinovik, as well as old Croatian churches. Stari Grad Plain is a living reserve with a unique bonus − it has not changed significantly since the times of Antiquity. On the littoral, less than a two hour sail from Stari Grad, is Split. Its medieval nucleus and the late antiquity palace of Roman Emperor Diocletian are the next entry on the UNESCO list. The reason it is listed is based on the condition of the palace as a whole, and the fact that some of its original parts still reflect the glory of one of the most important works of late Roman architecture. Gaius Aurelius Valerius Diocletianus decided to build a summer villa in his native land where he planned to retire when his work as head of state was done. The works on the palace started in the 3rd century. The imperial abode enclosed by walls, with rectangular towers projecting from the corners, incorporated elements of a castrum − a Roman military camp. There were three gates on the mainland and one on the seaside, and two principal streets, Cardo and Decumanus. The complex was divided into two halves; the southern half was for the emperor’s family, while the northern half provided housing for servants and guards

as well as storage space. From the main entrance, the so called Golden Gate, the street Cardo led to Peristyle which gave access to the emperor’s octagonal mausoleum. From there, a vestibule opened into the emperor’s living quarters. The highest quality stone was used as the building material for the palace; it was decorated with Italian marble, Egyptian columns and sphinxes, as well as stone carvings imported from an island in the Marble Sea. The architectural style of the palace had no precedent in the construction of classical buildings, while the moderation and purity found in the antiquity style shapes and forms gave in to excess and extravagance. When Salona, the capital of the entire province of Dalmatia, was invaded by the barbarian Avar and Slavic tribes in the 7th century, its Christian population ﬂed and found shelter within the walls of the imperial palace which was several kilometres away. The urban tissue became more dense, new stone houses were incorporated into whatever available space there was in the squares, streets and porticoes, and the palace became an area of urban living. A cathedral, the oldest in Croatia, if not in the whole world, which many believe it to be, replaced the mausoleum of the emperor who was notoriously the most pitiless persecutor of Christianity in history. The cathedral was chosen to be the last resting place for the bones of the city’s celestial patron who was martyred and ultimately killed at the hand of no other than Emperor Diocletian. The Romanesque belfry of St. Domnius was built next to the cathedral and nowadays towers over this unusual palace-city. The cathedral boasts a particularly well preserved walnut door which was crafted in 1214 by Master Andrija Buvina and depicts 28 scenes from the life of Jesus. Master Juraj Dalmatinac also made his mark on the cathedral in the 15th century. He made the altar dedicated to St. Anastasius, a co-patron saint of the city. He also designed some of the palaces in the city modelling them after Venetian palaces. A hexagonal pulpit was made from the red and green porphyry stone presumably reclaimed from the previously destroyed imperial sarcophagus − a consistent and thorough ending of the Christian Reconquista. The cathedral also houses the so called Split Book of Gospels dating back to the 7th century, the oldest illuminated manuscript on parchment paper. Life in the huge and splendid palace has evolved slowly over the past 17 centuries as new inhabitants have kept pouring in. In the process, the palace has become a real city and nowadays serves as a model of urban living in the Eastern Adriatic. Its facades, squeezed in a

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small area, reflect the stylistic characteristics of Late Antiquity, the Early Middle Ages, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, the styles of the 19th and 20th centuries… Those keepsakes of history and art coexist with the paraphernalia of real life, complete with laundry hung out to dry - the white Mediterranean flags on clothes lines across narrow alleyways; houses, apartments, and hotels have been incorporated into the palace walls; tables belonging to cafés and restaurants crowd the sidewalks and slow down pedestrian traffic. That vivacity and crowdedness, the somewhat restricted way of living within the monumental edifice which has changed its shape and purpose so many times, makes it unique, interesting and also vulnerable. Some seventy kilometres northwest of Split is ©ibenik, a stone jewel on the Croatian littoral with St. James Cathedral, yet another masterpiece featured on UNESCO’s list. Indeed, the cathedral is a unique ode to European sacral architecture and the most significant architectural creation in Croatia dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries. It stands out not only for its beauty and monumentality but also for a range of stylistic and construction properties. This is the only cathedral on European soil which was constructed with only stone and marble. Builders used neither bricks nor wood, nor did they rely on mortar to bind the stones together. The stone setting technology applied in the construction of the cathedral was without precedent and it was not used anywhere else before the 19th century. Many of the building and decorative solutions are simply unique: the most prominent is the frieze. Nothing of the kind can be found in any sacral building in Europe. It depicts a total of 71 human and three lion heads carved in stone. Fascinating expressivity and individuality characterize the true real life size depictions of Juraj Dalmatinac’s contemporaries. Besides Niccolò di Giovanni Fiorentino, who died during the building of the cathedral after having finished its dome, Dalmatinac was the most significant master who worked on the cathedral and completed it. Since the entire building process lasted over a hundred years, the cathedral shows a succession of three different styles: Gothic, mixed Gothic Renaissance and Renaissance. The whole building is so harmonious and its stone roof and dome so captivating that hardly anybody ever notices that the cathedral has no belfry. This was simply too expensive to build in a city with no more than 8 thousand inhabitants, which was the population of ©ibenik during the cathedral’s construction. The baptistery, depicting four prophets in the 64

baldachins, is a masterpiece of Flourishing Gothic carved by the hands of Master Juraj. His own monument in front of the cathedral shows the master builder with a hammer in his hand observing his own work and the river of people who cannot but admire all those stone rosettes, putti, shells, pews made of stone and decorated with marble garlands, pilasters and reliefs, while his contemporaries whose heads are carved in stone along the apsides return their glances as if they were still alive. Less than fifty kilometres away, the enchanting museum city of Trogir occupies a position on an islet just off the shore. Medieval Trogir developed between the 8th and 15th century on an orthogonal structure dating back to the period of Greek colonization. Within the former walls, of which only the St. Mark’s and Kamerlengo fortresses are preserved providing the city with its recognizable appearance, Trogir is a treasure trove of Romanesque churches and Renaissance and Baroque secular buildings. The most significant of all is the cathedral with Radovan’s portal, a jewel of Romanesque gothic art in Croatia. If you enter the city through the northern gate, which was built in the late Renaissance period, and continue through a maze of narrow alleyways, you will reach the main square featuring the town loggia from the 15th century and next to it a campanile with a clock. The small 11th century church of St. Barbara is right behind the loggia, preserved in its original form. The Cathedral of St. Lawrence with a belfry, the most monumental Romanesque cathedral in Dalmatia, is on the other side of the square. Its construction spanned centuries and the final appearance is a cross section of styles. Most of it is in Romanesque style, with the dome and the first storey of its belfry built in Gothic style. The second storey is a typical example of flourishing Gothic, whereas the third storey with the fourth, pyramid-shaped ending ornate with sculptures displays characteristics of mannerism. Although masters such as Andrija Aleπi and Niccolò di Giovanni Fiorentino both made their mark on the appearance of the cathedral, the most striking medieval portal in this part of Europe is the work of master Radovan who signed his name as per Raduanum on the base of the lunette. Again, there are elements of Romanesque style and of Renaissance, whereas a Baroque niche houses a Gothic sculpture of St. Lawrence that was brought from the demolished chapel of St. John of Trogir. The collection of some hundred or so sculptures and reliefs on the portal is the most sumptuous and highest quality monument of Medieval sculpture in South-eastern Europe.

In terms of its thematic concept, it depicts the Original Sin and Redemption, the life of Christ, various saints and apostles, as well as the months and hunting scenes. Here you can find a Renaissance chapel with carved heads in the cross vault, marble Baroque tabernacles, altars, pulpits and sculptures and sumptuous palaces. It seems that the youngest of Zeus’ sons, the god of a happy moment, whose relief is kept in the monastery of St. Nicholas, has had his fingers in this cornucopia of beauty that is Trogir. Kairos was allegedly able to move among people swiftly and noiselessly giving them the opportunity to touch him or capture him, to take their chance and make the most of the brief moment before he disappeared forever, just like one has to make the most of life and dare to live it to the fullest, always pushing one’s limits. In a balmy twilight when you find yourself strolling through the charming streets and squares of Trogir among other sun-kissed and happy faces, with swifts which reputedly sleep and copulate while circling in the air above you and releasing their joyous brief cries, maybe you will realize that being here, in this beautiful place, is a blessing from Kairos and a sign that things have fallen into place just as they should. The Istrian town of PoreË is home to the early Christian complex of the Euphrasian Basilica, a cathedral named after Bishop Euphrasius who reconstructed and refurbished a preexisting sacral edifice in the mid-6th century, during the reign of Emperor Justinian. His basilica still stands as one of the most beautifully preserved examples of Byzantine art on the entire Mediterranean coast. Besides the basilica, the Euphrasian complex also comprises a parish church, a sacristy, a cella trichora, a baptistery, a bell tower and the oratorium of St. Maurus. The famous authentic mosaics originate from the 5th century, whereas the church collection contains monuments and artefacts from the old Christian, early Byzantine and Medieval periods. The splendid mosaics are the most beautifully preserved works of Byzantine art. The two principal ones depict the Annunciation and the Visitation. The latter is an artistic rarity in its own right owing to the depiction of a pregnant Virgin Mary meeting Elizabeth. Croatian localities on UNESCO’s list of world heritage are not just a group of exhibits or a sum of monuments; they are a living, pulsating urban organism. They are not a static museum depot or sad dead walls; they are a harmony of the past and present, a real and ongoing encounter with the beauty and greatness of the human mind, talent and labour. ■

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Winners in both categories! Sandra Perković

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2012 Olympic winner in discus throw

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Rovinj Pula Pula Airport Zadar Zadar Airport Split Split Airport Dubrovnik Dubrovnik Airport

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Istria. Green Mediterranean.

TRAVEL THROUGH TIME Experience nine adventures, treat

Inspirit’s re-enactments, feasts and

the stake, meet mythological crea-

your taste buds to a myriad of new

plays. Be a guest at a Roman feast,

tures from the past, dance at a ba-

ﬂavors close to home, in Istria. Go

stroll through Napoleon’s town,

roque ball or dive into the darkness

on a journey through the amazing

escape from a murky dungeon,

of a deep coal mine.

past of this peninsula through Istria

watch an inquisition and burning at

Enjoy performances of well-versed actors at authentic locations and gastronomic delicacies from that particular period, included in every event. Try the dishes of Roman emperors and poor ﬁshermen, then dance and enjoy the amazing history the Istrian peninsula has to offer. Info & booking: www.istrainspirit.hr

Find out more what Istria has to offer and get inspired by online brochures by visiting www.istra.com 66

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Istria. Green Mediterranean.

The lighthouse of love Savudrija The secret love of Count Metternich and why they didn't live happily ever after...

Mythical creatures of Istria Pula The food of the giant Veli Joze, the sorceress's magic potions and games of the ancient circus...

Jules Verne: Escape from the castle Pazin How Count Sandorf escaped from the castle and what Jules Verne knew about it...

Events (until Oct. 6th, 2013): Spacio Rovinj The food of ďŹ shermen and farmers and discussions at the tavern...

Iustitia PoreÄ? Domenico Furlan's thievery and how justice was served...

Old Buzet Buzet How they baked bread and what music they danced to in old Buzet...

The Miner's Republic Labin Is there a sky under the ground? The lives and food of coal miners...

Crispo Medulin The feast Consantine the Great honored his son with and what made the stepmother wicked...

Mare the witch Svetvincenat Why the herbalist Mare was burned at the stake and how the ececutioners celebrated...

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OPATIJA I MOŠĆENIČKA DRAGA BISERI RIVIJERE

YOUR ISLANDS OASIS

Kraljica Jadrana. Carica turizma. Ili jednostavno samo − Opatija. Njena se rivijera proteæe uz Ëarobnu morsku magistralu sve do MoπÊeniËke Drage. Pa onda malo poviπe, dva dragulja, BrseË i MoπÊenice. Imate li dovoljno vremena i strpljivo proËeπljate rivijeru spod obronaka UËke − uæivati Êete. I relaksirati se. Odlazak na plaæu MoπÊeniËka Draga pruæiti Êe vam doæivljaj koji je puno viπe od onog uobiËajnog odlaska na plaæu.

Opatija se u ljetnim mjesecima pretvara u Grad Festivala. Scenske atrakcije, glazbene bravure i glumaËka ostvarenja nude se pod romantiËnim kvarnerskim nebom. Jedna od najljepπih pozornica na otvorenom na Ëitavom Mediteranu je upravo Ljetna pozornica u Opatiji. Ugostiti Êe ona tijekom ljeta neke od trenutno najpopularnijih mjuzikala u ovoj regiji. Tu su joπ brojni koncerti i zabavni programi (www.festivalopatija.hr). Ne zaboravlja se ni na ljubitelje klasiËne glazbe. Posebno zanimljiv program koncerata priprema Festival Kvarner (www.festivalkvarner.com). A tek jazz!? U sklopu Liburnia Jazz Festivala ovdje se okupljaju vodeÊi svjetski jazz glazbenici (www.liburniajazz.hr). Uz opatijske vodoskoke Opatija ima i svoje vatromete. Festival vatrometa ovdje je tradicionalan. No kruna svih dogaanja je - carska kruna. Naravno,

rijeË je o manifestaciji Opatija − carski grad koja oæivljava sjaj zlatnih vremena grada kada su njome koraËali car Franjo Josip I i austrougarska aristokracija... Razmislite. Puno je mjesta koja ljeti nude æivost, no Opatija nudi - provod sa stilom. Brend je to stvaran stoljeÊima. A za hranu ne brinite. Delicije nositelja oznake kvalitete Kvarner Gourmet poËivaju na spoju primorske i kontinentalne kuhinje pa Êe vam na tanjur biti stavljen i kvarnerski πkamp, i πparoge, i maruni, i treπnje... Moæete krenuti potom put ribarskih noÊi, zajedriti na regati tradicijskih barki, okuπati se na slikarskim kolonijama, uæivati u klapskim veËerima s primorskim, istarskim i dalmatinskim napjevima. Mi vam πaljemo svoju pozivnicu. Prihvatite je!

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The Queen of the Adriatic, the Pearl of Tourism, or simply - Opatija. Its Riviera stretches along magical coastline all the way to MoπÊeniËka Draga, and then on to BrseË and MoπÊenice. If you have enough time on your hands, why not explore the area at the foot of Mount UËka? We feel conﬁdent that you will enjoy it and have a relaxing time. A visit to MoπÊeniËka Draga beach is always much more than just the usual beach experience. Every summer, Opatija is a venue for numerous festivals where you can enjoy attractive theatrical performances and musical concerts under the romantic Kvarner skies. Opatija’s Open Air Theatre is considered one of the most beautiful venues of its kind in the entire Mediterranean area. This summer, it will host some of the most popular musicals in the region, as well as numerous concer ts and enter tainment programmes (www.festivalopatija.hr). We should not forget classical music lovers: the Festival Kvarner offers a particularly appealing concert programme (www.festivalkvarner.com). Are you interested in jazz? The Liburnia Jazz Festival brings together

some of the world’s leading jazz musicians (www.liburniajazz.hr). Home to splendid fountains, Opatija also traditionally hosts a fireworks festival. However, the highlight of all the events in Opatija is undoubtedly Opatija − Imperial Town, which evokes the splendour of the town’s golden age, when it was visited by Emperor Franz Joseph I and the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy. There are many places where you can find great entertainment, but Opatija has more: it offers a good time with style. The town is a brand created over centuries. You don’t have to worry about excellent cuisine either. The specialities on offer in the bars and restaurants marked with the Kvarner Gourmet quality label combine coastal and continental cuisine. Here, you can sample Kvarner scampi, wild asparagus, sweet chestnuts, cherries and other local foods. Why not visit a fish festival, set sail in a traditional sailing boat regatta, take part in an art colony, or enjoy a concert of traditional vocal music from Istria, the Croatian Littoral or Dalmatia? We send you our invitation and invite you to accept it!

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■ UMJETNOST ART

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Piše/By Branko Franceschi

Nesvjesno: Canal Grande, 2013, performans, Venecija

Zoran PaveliÊ

Unconscious: Canal Grande, 2013, performance, Venice

Spavanje izmeu neba i zemlje, 2010., performans u skulpturi Ivana KoæariÊa Oblik prostora XIII (1965.), MSU, Zagreb Sleeping between the Sky and the Earth, 2010, a performance in Ivan KoæariÊ’s sculpture, MSU Zagreb The Shape of Space XIII (1965)

Negdje sam u dubokom svemiru...Tiπina je stvarna. Dræim u ruci mreæicu za leptire i njome hvatam planete, prave pravcate. Evo, jedna je upala u mreæicu za leptire. Viπe nemam æelja, opet je puπtam natrag u beskraj, gdje ona, gle, padajuÊi raste prema svojoj punoj veliËini, padajuÊiiiii raste, padajuÊi raste... OsjeÊam prisutnost indigo plave boje. I am deep in space somewhere… Silence is real. I am holding a butterfly net in my hand and am catching planets with it, real planets. There, one has just fallen into my butterfly net. I have no more wishes, I am releasing it into infinity, where, look, it grows to its full size while falling, it grows while faaaaalling, it grows while falling… I sense the presence of the colour indigo. Desa Ivana Martek

Stojim gola na ruæiËastoj traci sjajnoj poput satena πirine oko 3 metra sa lagano uzdignutim rubovima. Traka se spiralno uzdiæe prema gore, πiroka je u promjeru oko 10 metara, a vrh spirale se gubi u visini dok nas okruæuje svemir. Apsolutna je tiπina i mrak, jedino πto svijetli je ruæiËasta traka spirale (ili sam moæda ja izvor svjetlosti) dok oko mene ima najviπe svjetla. Prije nego krenem penjati se uz spiralu skidam svoju koæu i uredno je slaæem na desnu stranu trake i kreÊem na put prema Saturnu, na svakom zavoju ponavljam postupak skidanja koæe koju slaæem uz desni rub trake. Put dugo traje, ali ne stiæem do vrha veÊ se budim u procesu. I am standing naked on a shiny pink satin-like band some 3 metres wide with slightly upturned edges. The band spirals upwards, the diameter of the spiral is about 10 metres and the tip of the spiral vanishes at heights as the universe surrounds us. The silence and darkness are absolute, the only thing that glows is the pink spiral band (or perhaps I am the source of light), with most of the light surrounding me. Before I start climbing up the spiral, I remove my skin and fold it neatly on the right side of the band and set out on a journey to Saturn, repeating the skin removal exercise at every bend and folding my skin neatly on the right side of the band. The journey is long and I never make it to the top, but rather wake up mid-process. Zoran PaveliÊ

Tamara ©tambuk

Letim iznad bistrih voda i uæivam. I am ﬂying above clear waters and I am enjoying it. Ivan KoæariÊ CROATIA AIRLINES

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Paviljon Republike Hrvatske u sklopu 55. venecijanskog bijenala na adresi je: Opera don Orione Artigianelli, Fondamenta delle Zattere ai Gesuati 919. Otvoren je od 1. lipnja do 24. studenoga 2013. godine. Svoje snove moæete unijeti i Ëitati snove drugih na www.arhivsnova.hr i Facebook Arhiv snova. During the 55th Venice Biennale, the Pavilion of the Republic of Croatia can be found at the address Opera don Orione Artigianelli, Fondamenta delle Zattere ai Gesuati 919. It will be open from 1 June to 24 November 2013. You can upload your dreams and read those uploaded by others at www.arhivsnova.hr and on Facebook Arhiv snova.

Zoran PaveliÊ

novi objavljeni na poËetku ovog teksta dio su bogatog arhiva snova koji multimedijalna umjetnica Kata MijatoviÊ prikuplja od 1991., ratne godine u kojoj je napustila rodnu Baranju i egzistenciju pravnice u gradskoj upravi Belog Manastira. StvaralaËki impuls koji je paralelno njegovala u sklopu djelatnosti grupe alternativnih umjetnika MoËvara (1988. − 1991.), u tom trenutku postaje joj jedina æivotna opcija. Njezina umjetniËka karijera novi zamah dobiva najprije studijem

Robertova poruka, 2003., performans u Galeriji Miroslav KraljeviÊ Roberto’s Message, 2003, performance at the Miroslav KraljeviÊ Gallery

na Akademiji likovnih umjetnosti u Firenci, zatim na zagrebaËkoj Akademiji, gdje je 1996. godine diplomirala slikarstvo. Prva samostalna izloæba Pripreme, koju je 1997. godine postavila u Muzeju suvremene umjetnosti u Zagrebu, nostalgiËnim, liriËnim instalacijama od perja, perina, cjepanica i jastuka do danas se pamti kao jedan od najmarkantnijih istupa na domaÊoj umjetniËkoj sceni uopÊe. U snaænu lokalnu postkonceptualnu umjetniËku scenu obiljeæenu neprekidnim dijalogom s ideoloπkom pozicijom,

kulturnim establiπmentom, masmedijskom okruæenjem i vlastitim korijenima, Kata MijatoviÊ unijela je originalnu kombinaciju suvremenoga umjetniËkog izraza i poetskog koda koji nije bio zasnovan na posloviËno koriπtenim i nezaobilaznim urbanim motivima i preævakanim kulturoloπkim obrascima. Njezin osebujni umjetniËki izraz u kojem se novi osjeÊaj za realizam spaja s poetskim nabojem i novim umjetniËkim jezikom, u godinama koje su uslijedile sve se izrazitije ili moæda otvorenije okreÊe podruËju nesvjesnoga. Upravo u nesvjesnome Kata MijatoviÊ locira izvoriπte subjektivne, ali i kolektivne slobode. Iz svoje umjetniËke pozicije upuπta se u razotkrivanje, a zatim prevoenjem na multidisciplinarni jezik suvremene umjetnosti i nadilaæenje univerzalnog problema i teme ontoloπke dihotomije psihiËkog prostora i procesa na svjesno i nesvjesno. Krajnji cilj postaje joj mapiranje zanemarene nesvjesne dimenzije stvarnosti, a nadasve snova. Smatra ih odmakom i kontrapunktom podruËju racionalnoga i materijalnoga, iz kojega se u zapadnom civilizacijskom krugu povijesno i druπtveno stvara i nameÊe jedina ispravna slika svijeta. Snovi Êe postati svojevrsna ready-made potka svih raznovrsnih projekata koje Êe od tada razvijati. PodruËje nesvjesnog, a osobito mehanizam sanjanja shvaÊa kao posljednje utoËiπte slobode, otvoreno nesputanim kombinacijama predodæbi, kako onih arhetipskih, tako i onih stvorenih svjesnim i nuæno kontaminiranim mentalnim procesima. U ovom aspektu proces sanjanja Kata MijatoviÊ smatra sukladnim umjetniËkom stvaralaπtvu pa ga maksimom Dok sanjamo svi smo umjetnici, odreuje kao dva lica suπtinski oslobaajuÊeg ljudskog potencijala. Svjesno ja danas uronjeno u kulturu konformiranja sa zateËenim poretkom, æivi zaborav podruËja nesvjesnog u kojima prebiva golema potpuno neistraæena psihiËka energija. Ta se energija oslobaa u snovima koji su manifestacije nematerijalne razine postojanja i poveznice s podruËjem nesvjesnoga te stoga ostvaruju funkciju otkrivanja misterija postojanja i stvarnosti u kojoj se sve odvija na razini razmjene informacija i energija. Nesvjesno nas nikada ne zavarava, upozorava nas na laæ druπtvenih i osobnih konstrukcija te nas usmjerava prema srediπtu biÊa. Zaborav nesvjesnoga znaËi odricanje od neiskazivoga i nepoznatoga energetskog potencijala, πto rezultira neuravnoteæenim pojedincem, druπtvima i civilizacijom, ispunjenima nemirom i sukobima. Prve biljeπke snova Kata MijatoviÊ zapisala je prijelomne ratne 1991. godine. RijeË je o zrcalnom dnevniku, dnevniku podsvijesti, kojim autorica to razdoblje odraæava s najosobnije unutarnje razine nesvjesnog ja. Ti snovi postat Êe osnova ranih instalacija i performansa.

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The dreams posted at the beginning of this text are fragments from the rich archive of dreams, which have been collected by artist Kata MijatoviÊ since 1991, the war year when she left her native Baranja, and abandoned her life as legal ofﬁcer at the municipal administration of Beli Manastir. At that moment, the creative impulse which she had kept alive as a member of a group of alternative artists known as MoËvara (1988-1991) became her only option in life. Her career as artist took off when she enrolled in the Florence Academy of

Zoran PaveliÊ

ambijent paviljona. Venecijanski projekt nazvala je po performansu Spavanje izmeu neba i zemlje, koji je izvela 2010. godine spavajuÊi od ponoÊi do jutra u ikoniËkoj skulpturi Oblik prostora XII Ivana KoæariÊa, smjeπtenoj na terasi Muzeja suvremene umjetnosti u Zagrebu. ©estosatna snimka performansa projicira se u predvorju Hrvatskog paviljona paralelno sa snimkom performansa koji je autorica osmislila posebno za svoj venecijanski nastup. Venecijanci, turisti, posjetitelji Bijenala, umjetnici i vodeÊi svjetski struËnjaci vidjeli su je kako u performansu Nesvjesno: Kanal Grande spava u bijeloj gondoli u kojoj, voena zaveslajima gondolijera odjevenoga u crno, plovi po venecijanskim srednjovjekovnim kanalima. Oko nje se, kao u snu, rastuÊi iz vode, razvija rasplamsala arhitektura najljepπega grada na svijetu. Jedan æivotni san doπao je svom cilju. n

Ugljen iz podsvijesti, 1999., instalacija pred Galerijom SC u Zagrebu Coal from the Unconscious, 1999, installation, SC Gallery in Zagreb

Fine Arts and later in the Zagreb Academy of Fine Arts, from which she graduated in 1996 in painting. Her ﬁrst solo exhibition, entitled Preparations, was staged at Zagreb’s Museum of Contemporary Art. Having showcased nostalgic lyrical installations made of feathers, duvets, wood logs and pillows, the exhibition is still remembered as one of the most striking appearances on the Croatian art scene. What Kata MijatoviÊ introduced into the powerful local post-conceptual art scene − featuring an uninterrupted dialogue with the ideological, with the cultural establishment, with the mass-media environment and with her own

Ugljen iz podsvijesti: Zattere, 2013., Sala Tiziano, Venecija Zoran PaveliÊ

Tijekom vremena fundus snova obogaÊuje se prilozima kolega umjetnika i postaje bunar koji funkcionira kao nepresuπni izvor nadahnuÊa za πiroki dijapazon umjetniËkih postupaka. Prijenos snova u materiju i fiziËki Ëin Kata MijatoviÊ realizira stvarajuÊi tekstualne forme, javne akcije, prostorne i ambijentalne instalacije, tiskana izdanja i performanse, sve do vrhunca u jedinstvenoj kombinaciji projekcije i performativne forme koja doslovno predoËuje dualnost razdvojenih svjetova. NastojeÊi omasoviti prikupljanje snova i ostvariti svoju misiju aﬁrmacije nesvjesnoga na πto πirem planu, Kata MijatoviÊ osmislila je za unos snova otvoreni, globalno pristupaËan i stalno πireÊi online Arhiv snova www.arhivsnova.hr. Arhiv se dodatno proπiruje na interdisciplinarni web-portal koji obuhvaÊa razliËite oblike istraæivanja, interpretacije i manifestacija nesvjesnoga. Portal s posjetiteljima komunicira suËeljem koje omoguÊuje jednostavan online unos snova u bazu ili se pak unos upotpunjuje snovima prikupljenima pri punktovima organiziranima na izloæbama. Krajnji je cilj da projekt kao jedinstvena baza snova postane predmetom i nadahnuÊem suradnji izmeu sektora koji se svaki sa svog polaziπta bave istraæivanjem nesvjesnog u svrhu razumijevanja ljudske egzistencije i postojanja uopÊe. Kao interaktivni portal Arhiv snova po svojoj je biti druπtvena skulptura i predstavlja konaËno stapanje umjetniËke vizije Kate MijatoviÊ s podruËjem kolektivne svijesti i svima otvoreno orue diseminacije informacija o nesvjesnom na globalnoj razini. Prijedlogom projekta Izmeu neba i zemlje, koji u multimedijalnoj instalaciji spaja interaktivni punkt za online prikupljanje snova i pretraæivanje arhiva s prezentacijom 24 do danas izvedena performansa i videorada o temi snova, Kata MijatoviÊ pobijedila je na prvom ikad javno raspisanom natjeËaju Ministarstva kulture RH za hrvatskog predstavnika na Venecijanskom bijenalu, najuglednijoj svjetskoj smotri suvremene vizualne umjetnosti. Hrvatski paviljon smjeπten je u srednjovjekovnom klaustru na rivi Zattere. U poluzamraËenom ambijentu Sale Tiziano, sazdanome od treperavih ekrana monitora i nepredvidivih izmjena zvuka i tiπine, publiku doËekuje levitirajuÊi metalni kavez otvorenih vrata. Preuzet je iz instalacije Ugljen iz podsvijesti, prve instalaciju koju je umjetnica izvela po snu i 1999. godine premijerno postavila u dvoriπtu zagrebaËke Galerije SC. Ugljen koji je tada ispunjavao kavez sada je iznesen van, πto posjetiteljima sugerira da uu u tu materijaliziranu metaforu podsvjesnoga i unesu svoj san u Arhiv snova. Proces upisivanja unosa automatski se projicira na zidu paviljona i stapa sa slikama i zvukovima koji artikuliraju prostor i

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Boris Greiner

Resume, 2006., performans u MM Centru, Zagreb Resume, 2006, performance at the MM Center, Zagreb

roots − was an original fusion of contemporary artistic expression and a poetic code, which was not grounded in the proverbially exploited and inescapable urban motives, and mediocre cultural paradigms. In the years that followed, her peculiar artistic expression, blending a new sense of realism with a poetic charge and a new artistic language, turned to the realm of the subconscious more prominently or perhaps more openly. It is precisely in the subconscious that Kata MijatoviÊ identifies the source of both subjective and collective freedom. From her position as artist, she embarks on an adventure wishing to first expose the universal problem and theme of the ontological dichotomy of the psychic realm and processes which divides the same into the conscious and the subconscious, and then to transcend the dichotomy by translating it into the multidisciplinary language of contemporary art. Her ultimate goal is to map out the neglected subconscious dimension of reality in general, and of dreams in particular. She considers dreams to be a departure from and a counterpoint to the realm of the rational and the material, which has historically and socially been created and imposed on western civilisations as the only acceptable image of the world. Dreams have become a ready-made warp of sorts for all the different projects she has worked on ever since. She perceives the realm of the subconscious, and particularly the dreaming mechanism, to be the last refuge of freedom, open to unbridled combinations of perceptions − both archetypal and those created by the conscious and thus unavoidably contaminated mental processes. Kata MijatoviÊ holds the process of dreaming to be a true match to artistic creation; accordingly, her maxim We are all artists while dreaming defines them as two facets of the 74

fundamentally liberating human potential. The conscious I is today immersed in a culture of confrontations with the current world order, and lives the neglect of the realm of the subconscious, wherein a vast and entirely untapped psychic energy resides. This energy is released in dreams, which are a manifestation of the immaterial level of existence and a link with the realm of the subconscious, which is why dreams serve the function of discovering the mystery of existence and reality, wherein everything unfolds at the level of information and energy exchange. The subconscious never deceives us; rather, it warns us of the falsity of our social and personal constructions, and guides us towards the heart of being. To ignore the subconscious is to deny the unexpressed and unknown energy potential, all of which results in unbalanced individuals, societies and civilisation teeming with unrests and conflicts. The first time Kata MijatoviÊ made a note of her dreams was in that war year of 1991, a turning point in her life. It was a mirror diary, a diary of the subconscious, which was a mirror image of the period articulated by Kata MijatoviÊ from the most intimate and innermost level of the subconscious I. These dreams would become the backbone of her early installations and performances. Her collection of dreams became richer over time owing to her colleague artists having contributed their dreams, and has ultimately become a well or an inexhaustible source of inspiration for a wide range of artistic procedures. Kata MijatoviÊ transfers dreams into matter and physical acts by creating textual forms, public actions, spatial and ambient installations, prints and performances, climaxing in a unique mergence of projection and performance forms, which presents literally the duality of the two separate worlds. In her attempt to expand her dreams archive and realise her mission − which is to affirm the subconscious as widely as possible − Kata MijatoviÊ designed an open, globally accessible and uninterruptedly growing online dreams archive at www.arhivsnova.hr. The archive has been additionally extended to an interdisciplinary web portal, which encompasses various forms of research into, interpretations and manifestations of the subconscious. The portal communicates with visitors through an interface allowing them to upload their dreams into the database in the simplest way; alternatively, dream entries are uploaded once visitors’ dreams are collected at dream collection spots during exhibitions. Her ultimate project goal is for this one-of-a-kind database of dreams to become the theme of and an inspiration for collaboration between different fields and sectors, each of which researches the subconscious

from their very own perspective with a view to gaining an understanding of human existence and being as such. As an interactive portal, the Dreams Archive is, in essence, a social sculpture and represents the final fusion of Kata MijatoviÊ’s artistic vision with the realm of collective consciousness, and a globally accessible instrument for disseminating information on the subconscious. Kata MijatoviÊ won first prize at the public tender issued for the first time ever by the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Croatia, looking to select the Croatian representative at this year’s Venice Biennale, the most prestigious international exhibition of the visual arts. Her winning project is entitled Between the Sky and the Earth, and is a multimedia installation combining the interactive online dreams archive and the archive’s search engine with the presentation of a total of 24 performances staged so far and video works themed around dreams. The Croatian Pavilion in Venice is located in the Medieval cloister on the Zattere waterfront. In the semi-dark ambience of the Tiziano Hall, composed of flickering display screens featuring unpredictable alterations between sound and silence, the audience is met with a levitating metal cage whose door is open. This is an adaptation of the Coal from the Subconscious installation, Kata MijatoviÊ’s first installation she based on a dream and premiered in the courtyard of the Zagreb Students’ Centre Gallery in 1999. The coal that then filled the cage has now been extracted, which suggests that visitors should enter this materialised metaphor of the subconscious and record their dream in the Dreams Archive. The process of their uploading their entries is automatically being projected on the walls of the Pavilion, merging with the images and sounds which articulate the space and the ambience of the Pavilion. She named her Venice project after the Sleeping between the Sky and the Earth performance which she presented in 2010 by sleeping in Ivan KoæariÊ’s iconic sculpture The Shape of Space XII, mounted on the terrace of the Museum of Contemporary Art in Zagreb. A six-hour long video of the performance is projected in the vestibule of the Croatian Pavilion simultaneously with a recording of the performance designed specifically for her Venice exhibit. Venetians, tourists, Biennale visitors, artists and leading international experts could see her sleep in a white gondola during the Subconscious: Grande Canal performance, as the gondola, propelled by the pulls of a blackclad gondolier, sailed along the Medieval canals of Venice. The flamboyant architecture of the most beautiful city in the world unfolds around her as if in a dream. One dream of a lifetime reached its goal. n

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■ NAŠA ODREDIŠTA OUR DESTINATIONS

Gradska vijeÊnica na najljepπemu europskom trgu, Grand Place City Council in the most beautiful European square, Grand Place

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VeÊ na trgu Schuman moæe se ukratko objasniti u Ëemu se sastoji uprava Unije. Golema palaËa VijeÊa dom je zemalja Ëlanica. Preko puta VijeÊa palaËe su Berlaymont i Charlemagne, dvije glavne zgrade Komisije, koje su, pojednostavljeno, Ëlanice osnovale zato πto su shvatile da zajedniπtvo, a ne egoizam, rezultira pojedinaËnim napretkom svake od njih. Even a short stop at Schuman Square sufﬁces to explain the intricacies of the European Union’s administration in a word or two. The huge palace of the Council is home to member states. Across the street from the Council building are the two main buildings of the Commission, the palaces Berlaymont and Charlemagne. To put it in very simple terms, the member states set up the Commission when they realized that it was unity and not egoism that led to a higher degree of progress for each of them.

eki posjetitelji Bruxelles poznaju samo kao prostor oko trga Schuman. Kad ih taksi ili aerodromski autobus iskrca pred zgradom VijeÊa ili Komisije, oni uu ujutro i izmile naveËer, odvedu ih na veËeru i na brzinsko razgledavanje Grande place, i spreme u avion. Neki Ëak i ne poznaju dobro labirinte Europskog parlamenta, pa kad uu, gube se u kompleksima nekoliko zgrada, povezanih pasarelama, dizalima, hodnicima kojima se hoda, hoda, i koji katkad zavrπavaju veliËanstvenim dvoranama, ali nekada dijele u tamne, uske, male prolaze ritmizirane vratima iza kojih su uredi eurozastupnika. Ni to ne poznaju, a kaæu da su bili u Bruxellesu. Donekle imaju pravo, jer svakako, veÊ na trgu Schuman, moæe se ukratko, u dvije rijeËi, objasniti u Ëemu se sastoji uprava Unije. Golema palaËa VijeÊa

dom je zemalja Ëlanica, gdje se vlade bore za svoje partikularne, samo svoje, interese i, da bi ih realizirale, stupaju u ad hoc koalicije. Preko puta VijeÊa palaËe su Berlaymont i Charlemagne, dvije glavne zgrade Komisije, koje su, pojednostavljeno, Ëlanice osnovale zato πto su shvatile da zajedniπtvo, a ne egoizam, rezultira pojedinaËnim napretkom svake od njih. Uroeni egoizam Ëlanica stalno ih navodi na to da nastoje smanjiti ulogu Komisije, ona se brani koliko moæe, a Ëlanice se onda, zauzdane Ugovorom, ipak na vrijeme zaustave. Malo je niæe, niz aveniju Loi, Parlament, gdje je kakofonija glasova eurozastupnika, i VijeÊe regija, gdje se, na svoju korist i ali zadovoljstvo, umreæavaju gradovi i europske regije. PalaËa VijeÊa mogla je biti mnogo atraktivnija, jer su, kad se joπ 1960-ih godina razmiπljalo o

Piše/By Ines Sabalić Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir Fabijanić

Trgovina u povijesnom centru, blizu Grand Place, specijalizirana za sve vrste belgijskog piva Shop in the historical center, near Grand Place, specialized for numerous kinds of Belgian beer

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1: Grand Place, trg 1695.g. spaljen do temelja i sagraen ponovno u samo Ëetiri godine. Pokazuje da su znanje, organizacija i rad, snaga Europe. Grand Place Square, destroyed to its foundation in the ﬁre in 1695 and rebuilt in only four years, shows that knowledge, organization and work are the powers of Europe. 2: UliËni sviraËi Street musicians

3: Najstarija pivnica u gradu, fatalnog imena Mort Subite opuπteno je i veselo mjesto. The oldest beer house in the city, bearing a fatal name

of Mort Subite, is a relaxed and merry place. 4: Muzej Magritte najnoviji je muzej u gradu, u kojem su izloæena neka od najpoznatijih slika belgijskog majstora nadrealizma Magritte Museum is the newest museum in the city, where some of the most famous works by the Belgian master of Surrealism are exhibited 5: Restoran Chez Léon Dagnje i pomfrit, tradicionalno belgijsko jelo, posluæuju svuda, ali ovaj je restoran po njima slavan. Chez Léon Restaurant − Mussels and pommes frites (French fries), a traditional

Belgian dish, are served in all restaurants, but this one is famous for it. 6: Mont Des Arts − ovo brdo s institucijama visoke kulture dijelilo je tradicionalno narodski od bogatijeg dijela Bruxellesa Mont Des Arts − this hill with high culture institutions separated the part of Brussels traditionally inhabited by common people from the rich one 7: Europska komisija, Ëesto odrediπte europskih putnika u Bruxellesu European Commission, a frequent destination of European travellers in Brussels

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1: Belgijski umjetnik Arne Quinze postavio je instalaciju Sekvencija ispred zgrade ﬂamanskog parlamenta u Bruxellesu The installation entitled Sequence by the Belgian artist Arne Quinze is placed in front of the building of the Flemish Parliament in Brussels 2: Jedna od veÊih staretinarnica u Ëetvrti Marolles, poznatoj po buvljaku i antikvarijatima One of larger antique shops in the Marolles neighborhood, famous for its ﬂea market and second-hand book stores 3: Grand Place noÊu: osvjetljavanju povijesnih

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graevina pridaje se osobita paænja Grand Place by night: special attention is given to illuminating historical buildings 4: Jedna od zgrada Europske komisije, toranj Madou, gdje su smjeπteni uredi koji se bave istraæivanjem, kulturom, obrazovanjem One of the European Commission buildings, the Madou tower, housing ofﬁces dedicated to research, culture and education 5, 6: Restorani u ulici Bouchers: iz galerije St Hubert okomito se prilazi ulici u kojoj je nekad bila mesnica do mesnice, a sad je restoran do restorana

Restaurants on the Bouchers Street: From the St Hubert gallery, there is a vertical passage to the street which was once lined by butcher’s shops, and now they have been replaced by restaurants 7: Osobito æiv subotom i nedjeljom, Trg Jeux de Balles u Ëetvrti Marolles svaki je dan ujutro buvljak, a okruæen je nizom malih, jeftinih restorana izvrsnog ugoaja Especially lively on Saturdays and Sundays, the Jeux de Balles Square in the Marolles neighborhood is a daily ﬂea market in the mornings, and is surrounded by a number of small, cheap restaurants with a great atmosphere

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1: Park Petit Sablon. Iza maloga, ali raﬁniranog parka, omeenoga nizovima skulptura koje predstavljaju bruxelleske tradiconalne zanate i profesije, dræavne su institucije The Petit Sablon park. Behind a small, but sophisticated park, bordered by a series of sculptures depicting the traditional crafts and professions of Brussels, are the governmental institutions. 2: Elegantni trg Sablon na kojemu se vide Marcolini, Godiva i Neuhaus, tri od

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nekoliko belgijskih prvaka u Ëokoladama i pralinama The elegant Sablon Square where you can see Marcolini, Godiva and Neuhaus, the three among Belgium’s several virtuosos of chocolates and pralines

Ëokolade, i slatki, jestivi kipovi manekena Pisa, bruxelleske maskote Belgian delicacy: chocolate. Chocolate-made Atomium and sweet, edible sculptures depicting Manneken Pis, the symbol of Brussels

3: Slavni novinar Gaston Lagaffe − spomenik Frankinovu junaku stripa The famous journalist Gaston Lagaffe − a monument to Frankin’s comic book hero

6: ©kotski Pub O’Reilly. Pubovi su veoma popularni za izlaske u Bruxellesu The Scottish pub O’Reilly. Pubs are very popular as places to go out in Brussels

4, 5, 7: Belgijski specijalitet: Ëokolada. Atomium od

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Direktor parka Mini Europa, Thierry Meus, pokraj makete zagrebaËke crkve sv. Marka, koja Êe, izmeu drugih maketa graevina zemalja EU, predstavljati Hrvatsku The director of the Mini Europe Park, Thierry Meus, next to the model of Zagreb’s St. Mark’s Church, which will represent Croatia among the models of other buildings from EU countries

novom sjediπtu, pozvali Le Corbusiera, no njegov su prijedlog ocijenili suviπe modernistiËkim. Zato je sredinom 90-ih izrasla ova obiËnija zgrada, zacijelo manje genijalna i kreativna, nego da ju je radio Corbusier, ali nije loπa, sluæi svrsi, ne obvezuje, niti ne kompleksira. Gore, na πestom katu, u jednoj nevelikoj prostoriji, predsjednici dræava i vlada dræe svoje maratonske summite, oni iz manje moÊnih dræava nekad se ispriËaju, odu u susjednu prostoriju i s velikih prozora promatraju grad. Nije loπe to πto vide, ali europska Ëetvrt samo je dio æivota ovoga grada. Poznavatelji grada imaju dva tajna mjesta s kojih se grad bolje vidi, na primjer Altitude 100, obiËan bruxelleski trg, sav u stilu art dècoa, mjesto gdje mirno, relaksirano, æivi tipiËna bruxelleska srednja klasa. Tu je talijanski restoran u kojemu moæete pojesti dobru pizzu. U blizini je πuma, Duden park, gdje je Habsburgovac Karlo Peti, car Svetoga Rimskog Carstva u 16. stoljeÊu, lovio jelene. Stara monarhija i danas se kao palimpset probija u nekim malim druπtvenim obiËajima, moæda sitnicima, kao πto su odnosi meu susjedima, koji su iznenaujuÊe sliËni u Bruxellesu i Zagrebu. Altitude 100 najviπa je kota ovog dijela grada, jer je Bruxelles, i to je zaista neobiËno za one koji se dosele, iako je usred Flandrije, i πire regije koju nazivamo Nizozemlje, veoma brdovit. Moæda zato gradski bicikli, koliko god kvalitetni i cijenom pristupaËni, nisu masovno zaæivjeli. Dok se svladaju ti stalni usponi i juri 84

niz breæuljke grada, Ëovjeku je dosta fitnessa za cijeli tjedan. Drugo je tajno mjesto vrh garaæe Parking 58 u Rue d’Eveque - ako morate parkirati, uËinite to ondje, u blizini Grande place i popnite se na deseti kat i vidjet Êete sve, od europske Ëetvrti do Atomiuma. Dakako, najljepπe mjesto da se doæivi raznolikost grada jest kad siete na stanici metroa Louise i umjesto da krenete prema duÊanima, zaputite se na suprotnu stranu. »init Êe vam se da se grad otvara pred vama i da je na kraju te goleme esplanade zacijelo more. S lijeve strane diæe se golema PalaËa pravde iz 19. stoljeÊa. Da bi je sagradio, arhitekt Joseph Poelaert poruπio je veliki dio srednjovjekovnog, narodskog Bruxellesa, i imajuÊi pred sobom viziju Pravde, podigao golemo, reprezentativno zdanje, da bude simboliËna reprezentacija tada mlade dræave. Zgrada od 60.000 Ëetvornih metara danas je nefunkcionalna, ali tajnovita, prevelikih ili premalih dvorana, svih u bijelom kamenu, osam unutraπnjih dvoriπta, ili labirintima dugaËkih hodnika koji se zavrπavaju zidom i odbaËenim pisaÊim stolom. Gigantizam zgrade koji je graniËio s apsurdom, fascinirao je mnoge. Orson Welles ovdje je htio snimati Kafkin Proces, ali nije dobio dozvolu, pa je taj film snimio u - Zagrebu. Djelo je pojelo arhitekta, ubio se bacivπi se s kupole, a mali graani, koji su zbog ruπenja ostali beskuÊnici, bijesno su ga nazvali schieve architect, ludi arhitekt, πto je i danas u dijalektu ostalo kao uvreda ili poruga. Pokraj PalaËe pravde i obelisk je na kojemu su napisani dijelovi belgijskog ustava, u to doba najsuvremenijega u Europi, koji je obeÊavalo pravdu za sve, makar je trebalo proÊi mnogo vremena da taj poziv doista bude ostvaren. No, baπ na tome mjestu u srednjem vijeku bilo je stratiπte. Nadesno, pak, golemi je kompleks graevine koja se katovima spuπta duboko do nedostupnog, unutarnjeg dvoriπta. Zatvor? Bio je, a sada je gimnazija, uËenici koje tuæno konstatiraju da ih i danas dræe pod æeljeznom disciplinom. U podrumu tog nekadaπnjeg zatvora, Vesalius, stari europski lijeËnik, anatom, fiziËar, obavljao je prve sekcije nad leπevima koje su mu dovlaËili s obliænjeg stratiπta i, na πto su pak profesori te πkole veoma ponosni, na osnovi tog rada napisao jedno od kljuËnih djela medicine De humanis corporis fabrica, u kojemu je opisao krvotok. Kad se nadivite pogleda na Bruxelles, spustite se liftom na nekoliko ulica starog Bruxellesa, koje su ostale nakon ruπenja, Ëetvrt Marolles, mnogima najdraæi dio grada. Rue Haute i Rue Blaise i nekoliko popreËnih ulica saËuvale su autentiËnost naËina æivota koji se provlaËi od srednjeg vijeka. Trgovine nude robu koja se svia danaπnjim kupcima, ali lica iza pulta, naËin

komunikacije, Ëvrsta povezanost zajednice, to je oËigledno ukorijenjeno nekoliko stotina godina. Dvije ulice zavrπavaju trgom Jeu de balle, gdje se oduvijek trgovalo. Spielbergov film Tintin poËinje upravo Tintinovom πetnjom po buvljaku trga Jeu de balle, gdje je naπao maketu broda koja Êe ga odvesti u pustolovine. Dvaput tjedno ondje se istovaruju, Ëini se, nepregledne koliËine starih stvari. Osobit je doæivljaj doÊi onamo oko πest ujutro utorkom i Ëetvrtkom, gdje dvojica lokalnih biznismena istovaruju kamione. Svega tu ima, ali teπko da Êe doπljak staviti ruku na neπto vrijedno. Veliki antikvari, poneki s timom od nekoliko ljudi, brzinski i sustavno sve proËeπljaju i kao termiti pokupe πto je vrijedno. Plijen odnose na breæuljak iznad Jeu de balle, na trg Sablon, gdje su antikvarnice u kojima se traæe i nae moæda najbolja specijalistiËka roba u Europi. Sablon je posve drugaËiji od narodskoga, jednostavnoga, Marolles. Na Sablonu se uæiva u relaksiranoj eleganciji, u oπtrigama i πampanjcu s nogu, na terasi kafiÊa, u druπtvu onih koje kriza nije dotaknula, ili se prave da nije. Ondje je butik perjanica Ëokolatjera Marcolinija, Ëije su kreacije vizualno tako savrπene da je Ëovjeku æao zagristi u njih, ali ipak mora. Slijedi Godiva, nepravedno zapostavljena manufaktura, pa Wittamer, ujedno i kafiÊ koji nudi slastice. Za razliku od svih drugih u servisnom sektoru u Bruxellesu, koji su bez iznimke ljubazni i prijateljski, i to upravo u mjeri koja paπe klijentu, ni previπe ni premalo, u Wittameru su pomalo odbojni. Ali, kad ondje gost za stolom doËeka vlasnicu ili njezinu ekipu, prijee preko njihove mrzovolje, bude nagraen dobrom kavom i izvrsnim kolaËima. Sablon je veÊ važna skupa graanska lokacija, i to je oduvijek bila, s tim da na jednom dijelu graniËi s Marolles, gdje je u staro doba bila

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narodska bolnica Saint Jean pa su se bogataπi æalili na smrad bolesti i smrti. Bolnica je i danas ondje, samo su uvjeti mnogo bolji − Belgija ima savrπeno organizirano i pristupaËno zdravstvo. Odmah pokraj velikog trga jest Mali Sablon, park sa skulpturama koje predoËavaju razliËita zanimanja starog Bruxellesa, a u kompleksu reprezentativnih palaËa smjeπtena su belgijska ministarstva. Takav je Bruxelles, kako se penje ili silazi s breæuljaka, tako se mijenjaju pogledi, æivotne prilike i socijalni stratumi. Ali, nema veoma strogog odvajanja, prepreke i stakleni svodovi ipak nisu takvi da ih se glavom ne moæe probiti. Najljepπi je trg u gradu, i jedan od najljepπih na svijetu, dakako, Grande place, a moæda i jedno od najboljih lokacija s kojega se moæe reflektirati o snazi Europe. Godine 1695., u jednome od ratova, Grande place bio je sruπen, zapaljen, sravnjen sa zemljom. U iduÊe Ëetiri godine flamanski cehovi i gilde potpuno su obnovili trg. U samo Ëetiri godine skupili su statiËare, knjigovoe, inæenjere, arhitekte, umjetnike, poslovoe, predradnike, zanatlije, radnike i izdignuli se doslovno iz pepela. OËigledno, rad, organizacija i hrabrost snaga su Europe. Blizu Grande place jest place St Catherine, gdje je arhitektonski, plitkim pravokutnim bazenom, naznaËeno kako je to bio i luËki trgovaËki grad, dok je to omoguÊavao sustav kanala i rijeka Zenne. Ta memorija saËuvana je u ribljim restoranima oko bivπe luke, a πetnja odanle vodi do Ëetvrti oko Bourse. U taj, prije desetak godina zapuπteni dio, uπao je investicijskim injekcijama moÊni flamanski kapital, a grad Bruxelles pogodovao je mladim parovima, prvim kupcima, mladim biznismenima. Taj je dio grada, πto se svega tiËe, najæivlji i najzanimljiviji. Svi, od

konceptualnih umjetnika, preko mladih dizajnera namjeπtaja ili nakita, preko cvjeÊara do vlasnika vintage trgovina, ili aktivista gay zajednice, æele se u neËemu izraziti, pa bio to i - izlog. Svi takvi nastoje dobiti mjesto u Rue Dansaert, koja odiπe svojevrsnim snobovskim, reﬂektivnim, coolom. U ovim se duÊanima kod mladih umjetnika koji preziru kapitalizam i mainstream kupuje vrlo skupo, ali barem znate da stojite na braniku modernizma. Da Banksy ili Slavoj Æiæek dou u posjet Bruxellesu, tu bi se motali. Napokon, maknite se malo izvan središta grada i posjetite Atomium, da se podsjetimo kako se pedesetih godina vjerovalo u napredak. Pokraj Atomiuma park je Mini Europe. Zanimljiv je zato πto je vlasnik Thierry Meuse entuzijast koji je ujedno sveuËiliπni profesor i biznismen, a njegova Mini Europa rezultat je entuzijazma i upornosti. Sve su zemlje Ëlanice izdvojile po jednu svoju graevinu po kojoj se pamte i postavile makete. Sada se pridruæuje i Hrvatska, odnosno Grad Zagreb, s crkvom svetog Marka. n

ome people know Brussels only as the area around Schuman Square, where a taxi or an airport shuttle bus stops in front of the Council and the Commission buildings. They enter one or the other in the morning and re-emerge in the evening. They are then taken to dinner or a hurried sightseeing tour of Grand Place because they have to rush to catch their plane. Some do not know even the labyrinths of the European Parliament. When they enter, they get lost within the complex of its several buildings connected with passages, lifts, seemingly endless corridors which sometimes end in fascinating meeting halls, but other times they bifurcate into dark narrow hallways with doors that rhythmically follow each other and hide the offices of the members of the European Parliament. They do not know even that; still they claim they were in Brussels. They are right to a certain extent because even a short stop at Schuman Square suffices to explain the intricacies of the European Union’s administration in a word or two. The huge palace of the Council is home to member states. This is where their governments fight for their own particular interests and forge ad hoc coalitions in order to further their goals. Across the street from the Council building are the two main buildings of the Commission, the palaces Berlaymont and Charlemagne. To put it in very simple terms, the member states set up the Commission when they realized that it was unity and not egoism that led to a higher degree of progress for each of them. The member states’ innate selfishness is behind their constant attempts CROATIA AIRLINES

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to reduce the Commission’s role. The Commission fights back as hard as it can and the member states always curb their ambitions in time, well aware of the fact that they are restricted by the treaty. A bit further down Avenue Loi is the Parliament, with a cacophony of voices belonging to the members of the European Parliament and the Committee of the Regions, where European cities and regions form networks to their benefit and satisfaction. The Council’s palace could have been a much more attractive building if the original idea had been followed through. Namely, in the 1960s when a new seat of the European administration was being contemplated, Le Corbusier was invited to submit a plan, but his proposal was found to be too modernistic anyway. That is why a more insipid building emerged in the 1990s, certainly less ingenious and creative then it might have been according to Le Corbusier’s plan, but it is not bad; arguably, it is neither engaging nor intimidating and it certainly serves its purpose. In a somewhat smallish room on the sixth floor, presidents of states and governments hold their marathon summits; those from the less powerful states sometimes excuse themselves and retreat to an adjacent room to observe the city through the large windows. What they see is by no means bad, but the European quarter is just one facet of life in Brussels. Those who know the city well can certainly tell you about two secret places with a much better view. One is Altitude 100, an ordinary Brussels’ art deco square, a place where your typical middle class citizens of Brussels lead their serene and relaxed lives. There is an Italian restaurant which serves good pizza. In the near-by Duden Forest, Charles V, a member of the Habsburg family and Holy Roman Emperor hunted deer in the 16th century. The old monarchy is like a palimpsest which can still be felt in some discrete examples of social etiquette and the relationships among neighbours which are surprisingly similar to Zagreb. Altitude 100 is the highest elevation in this part of the city. To the greatest surprise of those who move here, despite being centrally positioned in Flanders and the wider area known as Lowlands, Brussels is remarkably hilly. This may be the answer to why the use of city bikes, as superb in quality and as widely available as they may be, has not taken off. By the time you reach your destination, after having climbed the steep streets and speeded down the hills, you feel like you have had your week’s worth of exercise. The other secret place is the top of Parking 58 in Rue d’Eveque − if you have a car to park, do it there, in the vicinity of Grand Place. Go to the 10th floor and you will see everything: the view stretches from the European quarter to the Atomium. However, the best vantage point from which you can experience the multifaceted nature of the city is the place where you emerge from the underground at Louise stop. Instead of hitting the shops, you should go the exact opposite direction. You will have a feeling that the city is opening towards you and that there should be a sea at the far end of that huge esplanade. The huge 19th century building of the Law Courts of Brussels rises on the left hand side. Its architect, Joseph Poelaert, demolished a large part of medieval plebeian Brussels to erect this edifice inspired by his own vision 86

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of justice. The enormously sized representative structure served as a symbol of the then young state. However unusable it may be, the structure’s 60 thousand square metre footprint still exudes mystery. All of its halls, some too big, others too small, are made of white stone. There are a total of 8 courtyards and labyrinths of corridors that end with a wall and a discarded desk. The building’s gigantic proportions which verged on absurdity fascinated many. Orson Welles wanted to shoot his take on Kafka’s Trial here, but unable to obtain the necessary permission he moved the set to Zagreb. The work spelled the end for the architect; he killed himself by jumping off the dome. The working class people who were left homeless by the demolition of their neighbourhood and then the construction of the palace were livid with rage. They referred to Poelaert as schieve architect, the crooked architect. The term has stuck in the local dialect and it is used to either insult or mock somebody. An obelisk adjacent to the Laws of Court depicts parts of the Belgian constitution. At the time of its drafting it was the most progressive constitution in Europe, promising justice for all, although a lot of time would have to pass before that promise indeed came true. Interestingly enough, its location used to be an execution site in the Middle Ages. The huge complex of buildings whose ﬂoors go deep into an inaccessible court can be seen on the right hand side. A prison? Indeed it was, and today it is a grammar school whose students maintain that, sadly enough, they are still subject to iron discipline. In the basement of the former prison, Vesalius, an old European physician, anatomy expert and physicist conducted the ﬁrst ever

post mortems on the bodies of those who were executed nearby. The school’s academic staff is particularly proud of the fact that his work spawned one of the key medical textbooks, De humanis corporis fabrica, with a thorough description of human blood circulation. Once you are done admiring the views of Brussels, take a lift and move down to the couple of streets which have survived the demolition of the Marolles neighbourhood. Many find them their favourite part of the city. Rue Haute and Rue Blaise and a few streets perpendicular to them have preserved the authentic way of life which has persisted from the Middle Ages. The shops may well be stocking goods which appeal to modern day buyers, but the faces behind the counters and the closeness within the community obviously have centuries’ long roots. The two streets end in Jeu de Balle Square. This has always been a place of trade. In the opening scenes of Spielberg’s Tintin, the main protagonist is seen strolling through the Jeu de Balle flea market where he finds the model boat which would take him on an adventure. The seemingly immeasurable quantities of bric-a-brac and old things are unloaded there daily. It is an extraordinary experience to get there around 6 o’clock on a Tuesday or Thursday morning and observe the two local dealers unloading their stuff from lorries. There are all sorts of things here, but a rookie buyer can hardly expect to go home with a prize buy. Major players in the antiquity business, some with teams of several people, comb the place quickly and systematically and scoop everything that is worth having in a termite-like fashion. They take their loot to a hilltop above Jeu de Balle, to Sablon Square where one goes to look for and perhaps even

ﬁnd the best specialist merchandise in Europe. Sablon is the absolute opposite of the simple plebeian Marolles. It offers the enjoyment in a relaxed elegance, while eating oysters and drinking champagne standing at a café terrace in the company of those who have not been scathed by the crisis or they just keep up appearances. The chocolate Marcolini ﬂagship store offers creations so visually perfect that one is simply reluctant but also strangely compelled to take a bite out of them and spoil their beauty. The others are the unjustly neglected Godiva chocolate manufacture, as well as Wittamer, a café where you can also treat yourself to confectionery. Unlike the rest of the service sector in Brussels, where everybody to the last is friendly and polite, but not overbearing, at Wittamer the service is somewhat

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standofﬁsh. But once a guest seated at the table ﬁnally catches the eye of the owner or one of her staff, and comes to terms with the chip on their shoulders, they are rewarded with a good cup of coffee and delicious cakes. The Sablon neighbourhood has always been a seriously expensive bourgeois location. One part of it borders on Marolles, the location of the one-time communal hospital Saint Jean. The stench of sickness and death that came out of it was the bane of Sablon’s wealthy who never stopped complaining about it. The hospital is still there, but the conditions are much better − Belgium has a perfectly organized and accessible health care system. Immediately next to Grand Place is Small Sablon, a park with sculptures which represent various professions in old Brussels, while adjacent palaces house Belgian ministries. This is Brussels. As it goes up and down the hills, views change as well as the circumstances of people’s lives and social strata. However, divisions are not strict; obstacles and glass ceilings can be pushed and easily broken. The most beautiful square in the city and one of the most beautiful in the whole world is obviously Grand Place. Moreover, this is one of the best places to appreciate the strength of Europe. In 1695, during one of the wars,

Grande Place was destroyed, set ablaze and razed to the ground. Over the next four years, it was completely reconstructed by Flemish guilds. It took them only four years to gather structural engineers, accountants, engineers, architects, artists, foremen, craftsmen, builders and to rebuild it literally from ashes. Obviously, work, organization and courage are the qualities that constitute the strength of Europe. Close to Grande Place is Place St. Catherine where a shallow and square shaped pool indicates that Brussels used to be a harbour and a merchants’ city when sailing was still possible through a system of canals and the Zenne River. The memory of that still lives in the fish restaurants around the former harbour, whereas a stroll from there leads to the neighbourhood around the stock exchange building or the Bourse. The powerful Flemish financial capital gave the badly needed financial injections to this neglected part of the city some ten years ago. The city of Brussels offered incentives to young couples, first time property buyers and young business people. As a result, this part of the city is the liveliest in every respect and certainly the most fascinating. A wide range of professions, including conceptual artists and young furniture and jewellery designers, as well as florists, vintage clothes shop owners and

gay activists all want to express themselves in one way or another, by decorating a shop window if all else fails. All such people strive to book a space in Rue Dansaert, a street which exudes a reflexive snobbish cool. You will pay through the nose for goods in the shops whose young artistic owners despise capitalism and the mainstream, but at least you will know that you are standing at the barricades of modernism. If Banksy or Slavoj Æiæek came to visit, this is where they would be seen hanging out. And finally, get away from the city centre and visit the Atomium, a reminder of the way we believed in progress in the 50s of last century. The Mini Europe Park next to the Atomium has an interesting owner, Thierry Meuse an enthusiast, at the same time a university professor and a businessman, and his Mini Europe is a product of his enthusiasm and perseverance. The member states have each selected a building which best represents them and installed their small scale models in the park. Croatia, i.e. the city of Zagreb, will soon join them with a model of St. Mark’s Church. n Croatia Airlines povezuje Zagreb i Bruxelles izravnim letovima 10 puta na tjedan. Croatia Airlines connects Zagreb and Brussels with 10 directs flights per week.

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Nenad Reberšak

■ POVIJEST HISTORY

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d Bospora do Sjevernoga mora, preko Balkanskog poluotoka, Padske ravnice i alpskih vrhunaca, vodi put dugaËak gotovo 3500 kilometara. S jednoga na drugi kraj Europe, na izgled velike, iako na karti svijeta zapravo male, ali tako raznolike, æivopisne, prepune gradova koji se ponose svojim znamenitostima, kulturom na kojoj su svoj trag ostavile generacije od antiËkih vremena do danas. Veliki se gradovi u globaliziranom 21. stoljeÊu sve manje razlikuju, a zrakoplovi koji izmeu njih svakodnevno lete, oteli su nam svijest o udaljenostima. Od Istanbula do Pariza stiæe se za samo dva sata, s jugoistoka na sjeverozapad Starog kontinenta. Na istoj se relaciji ne tako davno putovalo podjednako udobno, ali mnogo dulje, puna tri dana, æeljeznicom, koja se, pokretana parnim strojem, prvi put pod legendarnim imenom Orient Express, s pariπke stanice Gare de l’est, prema Istanbulu zaputila 1883., prije toËno 130 godina. Sve do 1977. dva je grada plavim vagonima, o kojima su pisane knjige i snimani ﬁ lmovi, povezivao taj vlak koji se na svojoj ruti od 1919. zaustavljao i u Zagrebu, smjeπtenome taman na pola puta. Hrvatski glavni grad koji je, zbog geografskoga i prometnog poloæaja kroz svoju bogatu, gotovo tisuÊljetnu povijest, upijao pomalo i od æivopisnog Orijenta kao i uglaene zapadne Europe, ove godine postaje 28. prijestolnica u najveÊoj ekonomsko-politiËkoj zajednici u povijesti Europe. Hrvatska, nova Ëlanica Europske unije, i izvan europskih granica danas prepoznata kao atraktivno turistiËko odrediπte, zemlja je na kojoj su tragove stoljeÊima ostavljala mnoga velika europska carstva i kraljevstva, sile i velesile. Arhitektonski Zagreb nalikuje na Trst, kulinarski miriπe na Istanbul, brojne terase kafiÊa neodoljivo nalikuju na pariπke, a dotjerane ZagrepËanke izgledaju kao da su svoje krpice birale u Milanu. Istanbul, Soﬁja, Beograd, Zagreb, Ljubljana, Trst, Venecija, Milano, Pariz... Nekad su to bile stanice Orient Expressa. Ljudi su putovali, druæili se, trgovali, razmjenjivali iskustva… Prije punih sto godina, gotovo jednako kao i danas. Promijenila su se samo prijevozna sredstva. Za dulje europske relacije vlakovi ne mogu konkurirati zrakoplovima koji su postali ne samo bræi nego i jeftiniji, no od Beograda do Zagreba ili od Milana do Pariza i danas ima smisla zaputiti se æeljeznicom. PraktiËno je, ali i romantiËno. Budi sjeÊanja, vraÊa u neka proπla vremena, ali i zorno prikazuje razliËitosti u standardima pojedinih zemalja na legendarnoj ruti.

Piše/By Boris Oreπić Fotograﬁje/Photos Darko MihaliÊ

Veliki se gradovi u globaliziranom 21. stoljeÊu sve manje razlikuju, a zrakoplovi koji izmeu njih svakodnevno lete, oteli su nam svijest o udaljenostima. S jednoga na drugi kraj Europe, na izgled velike, iako na karti svijeta zapravo male, ali tako raznolike, ne tako davno puna tri dana putovalo se æeljeznicom, pod legendarnim imenom Orient Express. The globalized 21st century has almost wiped out the differences that used to exist in the appearance of big cities, while our perception of distance has been altered by the convenience of regular airplane connections. From one end to the other, Europe seems like a big stretch of land, but on a world map it is actually a rather small continent which boasts a remarkable variety. Not so long ago, it took three days to travel the distance by the legendary Orient Express train. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Bruxelles/Brussels

Pariz/Paris

Milano/Milan

Venecija/Venice

Od Istanbula do Soﬁ je napreduje se prosjeËnom brzinom od samo Ëetrdesetak kilometara na sat, a s juga prema sjeveru Francuske vlakovi jure i viπe od 200 km/h. Samo sat i pol vremena traje viπe od 300 kilometara dugaËak put od Pariza do Bruxellesa, politiËkog srediπta Europske unije, grada koji po broju stanovnika i povrπini nije niπta veÊi od Zagreba, ali u danaπnjoj Europi osobito je vaæno mjesto, do kojega bi, da kojim sluËajem joπ postoji, zacijelo stizala i transeuropska æeljezniËka linija. Glavnom gradu Belgije πarm udahnjuje velika multikulturalnost. Polovica stanovnika roena je izvan granica te dræave. Dom su pronaπli u Bruxellesu, gostoljubivome i tolerantnome kao malo koje drugo mjesto u Europi. Srediπnji trg Grand place zbog gotiËkih graevina pod zaπtitom Unesca nezaobilazno je odrediπte, a okolnim ulicama πire se mirisi svjeæe peËenih vaﬂ a. Tu se piju ponajbolja piva na svijetu i jedu najskupocjenije Ëokoladne praline izraene po stoljetnim recepturama. Tu su i glavne institucije Europske unije − VijeÊe, Komisija i Parlament, koji su se smjestili u tzv. europskoj Ëetvrti gdje je zaposleno oko 50.000 osoba iz svih zemalja Ëlanica. Rame uz rame stakleni neboderi i tradicionalne belgijske uske trokatnice s velikim prozorima. Na ulici se mogu Ëuti gotovo svi europski jezici. Viπe novinara iz cijeloga svijeta akreditirano je samo u Washingtonu. Po politiËkoj je vaænosti Bruxelles moæda pretekao Pariz, ali francusku prijestolnicu nitko ne moæe nadmaπiti po raskoπi i bezbrojnim atrakcijama. NoÊu osvijetljen Eiffelov toranj prizor je koji svakim novim gledanjem pobuuje divljenje. ©iroke avenije velegrada, mali trgovi na kojima se Ëovjek osjeÊa kao u dnevnoj sobi, æivahna kulturna scena, niz vrijednih graevina, muzeji… Zbog svega toga Pariz je magnetski privlaËan za milijune turista, poslovnih ljudi, ali i umjetnika. Oko 800 kilometara juænije svjetlima metropole diËi se Milano, najveÊi i najmoÊniji grad sjeverne Italije. U doba renesanse ondje su nastajala djela velikih umjetnika poput Leonarda da Vincija, Ëije slike krase crkvu Santa Maria delle Grazie. Na slavnu povijest asocira i Ëetvrta najveÊa katedrala na svijetu, a La Scala je najzvuËnije ime kad je posrijedi opera. Ulica Montenapoleone veÊ je gotovo pola stoljeÊa odrediπte onih koji ne pitaju za cijenu, a æele biti odjeveni i obuveni po posljednjoj modi. Tu su s najnovijim kolekcijama trgovine najprestiænijih talijanskih i svjetskih modnih marki. Pitanje za milijun eura svakako glasi: je li europski epicentar stila i mode u Milanu ili u Parizu?

Prema istoku kroz ravnicu omeenu Jadranskim morem i Alpama put vodi do Venecije. Nekad mediteranska pomorska, danas turistiËka velesila, osobita po svojim kanalima preko kojih vodi toËno 417 mostova. Na trgovima, u uskim uliËicama i na brodovima koji su gradsko prijevozno sredstvo, cijele godine vlada guæva. Venecija kao da je premala za sve one koji je æele vidjeti i fotograﬁrati se na Trgu svetoga Marka ili ispred istoimenog zvonika visokoga 98,6 metara. Trst nazivaju talijanskim gradom po mjeri Ëovjeka. U srediπtu i danas prevladava austrougarska arhitektura s poËetka 20. stoljeÊa kad grad postaje velika luka, jedna od najveÊih na Jadranskome moru. Zbog smjeπtaja uz granicu sa Slovenijom, u doba Jugoslavije postaje trgovaËka meka. Duh starih vremena Ëuvaju kavane iz 19. i ranog 20. stoljeÊa, πto nimalo ne Ëudi kad se zna da je Trst najveÊa talijanska, ali i mediteranska luka za kavu. Spomenute Belgija, Francuska i Italija, uz Nizozemsku, Luksemburg i tadaπnju Zapadnu NjemaËku, dræave su koje su se joπ 1957. Rimskim sporazumom udruæile u Europsku ekonomsku zajednicu πto je s Hrvatskom, koja u punopravno Ëlanstvo ulazi 1. srpnja, narasla na 28 dræava Ëlanica. Na toj se brojci po svemu sudeÊi neÊe zaustaviti, jer joπ je nekoliko zemalja na jugoistoku kontinenta u statusu kandidata, meu njima na povijesnoj trasi Orient Expressa i Turska i Srbija. U zaleu Trsta nalazi se slovenska Ljubljana, jedan od najmanjih glavnih gradova u Europskoj uniji, u koju je Slovenija uπla 2004. godine. Moæda malena, ali dojmljiva, s kamenim i drvenim mostovima preko rijeke Ljubljanice koja ljeti presuπi poput potoka, a u rano proljeÊe navijeπta buenje prirode kad vodene bujice poteku s Alpa. Tko voli zelenilo i bajkovite krajolike, neÊe pogrijeπiti zaputi li se iz Ljubljane prema Zagrebu vlakom, prugom koja prati tijek rijeke Save. Glavni grad Hrvatske − grad u kojemu zapad postaje istok, a istok zapad. Nakon πetnje od Glavnog kolodvora preko Zrinjevca do Trga bana JelaËiÊa, pa onda malo uzbrdo do Kaptola i Gornjega grada, postaje sasvim jasno zaπto sve viπe gostiju iz cijele Europe, na putu prema morskim odmaraliπtima na Jadranu, zastaje na koji dan u Zagrebu. Opako Êe pogrijeπiti onaj tko na spomenutoj pjeπaËkoj ruti zaobie Dolac, najstariju gradsku trænicu na kojoj i dandanas domaÊu hranu − od voÊa i povrÊa do sira i mesnih preraevine − prodaju poljoprivrednici iz okolice grada podno planine Medvednice. Kad je u Zagreb stigao Orient Express, tada je novi glavni kolodvor, sagraen 1892.

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godine, bio juæni rub grada koji se poslije proπirio prostranom ravnicom dalje prema jugu sve do rijeke Save, a zatim i preko nje. A kad s Gornjega grada toËno u podne opali top, nema razloga za strah. Samo je to mali podsjetnik na hirovitu proπlost i dobar povod za pogled na sat. Kroz plodnu Slavoniju, i opet uza Savu, i cesta i pruga vode do Beograda. Na uπÊu Save u Dunav smjestio se glavni grad Srbije, koji je 1918. postao prijestolnica novoosnovane dræave juænih Slavena, poslije nazvane Jugoslavija. Otad ubrzano raste i gradi se, ali zadræava orijentalni ugoaj koji se i danas moæe osjetiti u restoranima Skadarlije. Joπ malo prema jugoistoku, u srediπtu Balkanskog poluotoka, bugarska je metropola Soﬁja. »lanicom Europske unije Bugarska je postala 2007. godine i dobila priliku da se ekonomski uzdigne, πto se ogleda i u ureenju gradskog srediπta u kojemu je nesumnjivo najatraktivnije zdanje Hram Aleksandar Nevski nedaleko od kojega se svaki dan odræava sajam antikviteta. Na udaljenosti od samo nekoliko stotina metara nalaze se pravoslavna i katoliËka crkva, dæamija i sinagoga. A po broju stanovnika najveÊi europski grad smjestio se na samom rubu kontinenta, dvama mostovima preko Bospora povezan s Azijom. Prijestolnica povijesnih carstava − Rimskoga, Bizantskoga i Otomanskoga, snaæno gospodarsko i kulturno srediπte danaπnje Turske, premda ne i njezin glavni grad. Istanbul. Na veoma prometnome morskom putu izmeu Sredozemlja i Crnoga mora. Europski grad kulture iz 2010. i kandidat za Olimpijske igre 2020. godine. Golem i Ëaroban u svojoj raskoπi. Zadnja stanica legendarnog vlaka. n

nearly 3,500-kilometre-long road connects the Bosporus with the North Sea, across the Balkan Peninsula, the Po River Valley and the Alpine summits. From one end of Europe to the other, a seemingly vast stretch of land, although actually small on a world map, its size is more than adequately counterbalanced by a remarkable variety of colourful landscapes crowned with a host of cities, which take pride in their historical and cultural heritage, and reveal traces of generations that have lived there spanning centuries from Antiquity to date. Almost all differences between big cities have been erased by the globalised 21st century, and we have been robbed of our perception of distance by the convenience of regular airline connections. A flight from Istanbul in the southeast of the Old Continent to Paris in the northwest lasts as little as two hours. Not so long ago, the same distance could be covered just as comfortably, although the journey was much more time-consuming − it lasted no less than three days on the legendary Orient Express steam-powered train, which made its maiden voyage from Gare de L’Est in Paris to Istanbul in 1833, exactly 130 years ago. The train with blue carriages, based on which books have been written and films shot, operated until 1977. Zagreb, halfway between its departure point and final destination, had become one of the stops on its route in 1919. Owing to its geographical position at the crossroads of trade and traffic routes, the capital of Croatia has reaped the benefits of two very different worlds for nearly a millennium: the picturesque Orient and refined Western Europe. As of this year, it will become the

Trst/Trieste

Ljubljana

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Zagreb

Beograd/Belgrade

28th capital city in the largest economic and political union which has ever existed in the history of Europe. Even as a non-EU member, Croatia is recognised outside Europe as an attractive tourist destination. Many important European empires and kingdoms, powers and superpowers have left their mark on its territory throughout the centuries. Architecturally, Zagreb resembles Trieste, its cuisine smells like Istanbul, its numerous café terraces successfully emulate those in Paris, while Zagreb’s fashionistas ﬂaunt their fashion sense that not even Milan would be ashamed of. Istanbul, Sophia, Belgrade, Zagreb, Ljubljana, Trieste, Venice, Milan, Paris… − all stops on the Orient Express route once. People travelled, mingled, traded and exchanged experiences. They did so a hundred years ago almost in the same way as today. Only the means of transport has changed. For longer journeys across Europe trains cannot compete with planes which are not only faster, but also cheaper. Nevertheless, it still sometimes makes sense to travel by train for example on trips between Belgrade and Zagreb, or between Milan and Paris. Both practical and romantic, a train ride stirs memories and gives a clear picture of the differences which still exist in the standards of the countries along this legendary route. The average speed of travel from Istanbul to Sophia is not more than 40 kilometres an hour. At the same time, fast trains rush from the south to the north of France at a speed of over 200 km an hour. It only takes an hour and a half to cover the 300 km long train journey from Paris to Brussels, the political centre of the European Union. Although very similar to Zagreb in terms of size and population, Brussels is the pivot of

today’s united Europe. If a trans-European railway still existed, it would certainly be one of the stops on its route. Remarkable multiculturalism is what gives the capital of Belgium its unique charm. Although a half of its citizens were born beyond the borders of Belgium, they have nevertheless found their home in Brussels, a city as hospitable and tolerant as few others in Europe. Its main square, Grand Place, is a must for visitors. Flanked by gothic palaces, it has been recognised as a world heritage site and placed under UNESCO’s protection. The tantalising smell of freshly baked wafﬂ es permeates the streets around it. Brussels is where the best beers are drunk, and the most precious chocolate pralines are made from centuries-old recipes. It is also home to the main institutions of the European Union − the Council, the Commission and the Parliament. Located in the so-called European District, they provide jobs for approximately 50,000 people from all the EU member states. High rise glass buildings stand shoulder to shoulder to traditional three-storey narrow houses with large windows so typical of Belgium. Nearly all the European languages can be heard on the street. Brussels is second only to Washington in terms of the number of accredited journalists who work there. Brussels has arguably taken political precedence over Paris, but the capital of France cannot be ousted from its position as the capital of splendour and attractions. The night image of the brilliantly lit Eiffel Tower is awe-inspiring however many times you see it. Wide avenues worthy of a megalopolis, tiny squares as comfortable as a living room, a lively cultural scene, a host of important

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buildings, museums... They all draw millions of visitors, business people and artists to Paris with a magnetic force. Some 800 kilometres to the south, the lights are proudly ablaze in another metropolis: Milan, the biggest and most powerful city in North Italy. Many greats lived and worked there during the Renaissance, amongst them Leonardo da Vinci, whose many works also include the paintings which adorn the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. The fourth largest cathedral in the world testiﬁes to the city’s glorious past, while La Scala is simply the most resounding name in the world of opera. For nearly half a century, Montenapoleone Street has been the destination of those with money to burn in pursuit of the latest fashion finds. The street boasts flagship stores by the most prestigious Italian and international brands. The million Euro question is − Milan or Paris? Which is Europe’s epicentre of style? Through a valley ﬂanked by the Adriatic Sea and the Alps, an eastbound road leads to Venice. What used to be a Mediterranean maritime superpower is nowadays a mega money earner, a tourist mecca with precisely 417 bridges over its unique canals. Its squares and narrow alleys, as well as boats, which are its main means of transport, are always crowded. Venice seems to be too small for all those who wish to visit it and have their photo taken in St. Mark’s Square or in front of the 98.6 metre tall namesake belfry. Trieste is one of the best Italian cities to live in comfortably. The early 20 th century Austro-Hungarian style of architecture is what still gives it its identity. At that time, the city became an important harbour, one of the biggest on the Adriatic coast. Due to its

location right across the Slovenian border, it was a shopping mecca while Yugoslavia existed. The spirit of olden times is still alive in the Viennese-style cafés dating back to the late 19th and the early 20th century. This is not surprising in view of the fact that Trieste is the biggest coffee trading harbour not only in Italy, but also on the Mediterranean. The above countries of Belgium, France and Italy, together with the Netherlands, Luxembourg and the then West Germany got together in 1957 and established the European Economic Community by signing the Treaty of Rome. In the meantime, the Union has expanded to a total of 28 states, including Croatia which will become a fully ﬂedged EU member on 1st July this year. The number is bound to increase, as there are a few more candidate states in the southeast of the continent that vie for membership, two of which, namely Turkey and Serbia, are located on the historical route of the Orient Express. In the hinterland of Trieste, Ljubljana became one of the smallest capitals within the European Union, when Slovenia joined in 2004. It may be small, but impressive with stone and wooden bridges across the Ljubljanica River, which dries up like any other brook in summertime and swells up in early spring when mountain torrents start rushing down from the Alps, heralding the awakening of nature. Fairytale-like landscape and nature lovers will not make a mistake should they hop on a Zagreb-bound train in Ljubljana and follow the Sava River all the way to the Croatian capital. Zagreb is a place where West becomes East and East becomes West. After taking a pleasant stroll from the Central Railway Station to Ban JelaËiÊ Square, and

Soﬁja/Sophia

Istanbul

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Prepare your special winter package

then uphill to Kaptol and the Upper Town, it becomes abundantly clear why Zagreb has become a favourite stopover for an increasing number of holiday makers arriving at the Adriatic from all over Europe. Bypassing Dolac on this pedestrian route would be a huge mistake. It is the oldest open market, where farmers from villages at the foot of Mt. Medvednica still sell their home-grown fruit and vegetables, cheese and meat products. When the Orient Express first called in at Zagreb, the new Central Railway Station had just been built in 1892 on the southern outskirts of the city. Since then, the city has sprawled southward, across wide plains, all the way to the Sava River. There it stopped for a while, although it did not take long before it straddled the river and kept on growing. And when you hear the cannon being fired from the Upper Town at high noon, do not fret. It is nothing but a little reminder of the city’s stormy past and a cue to check whether your watch shows the correct time. Both the road and the railway track continue along the Sava River through fertile Slavonia all the way to Belgrade. The capital of Serbia sits comfortably at the mouth of the Sava into the Danube. In 1918, it became the capital of the newly established state of the Southern Slavs, which was later named Yugoslavia. Since then, the city has developed and grown at great speed, although managing to retain its Oriental spirit which still pervades restaurants at Skadarlija. Somewhat further southeast, the Bulgarian capital of Sofia sits in the middle of the Balkan Peninsula. Bulgaria joined the EU in 2007, which provided it with the opportunity for economic development which is reflected in the appearance of Sofia’s city centre, the crown jewel of which is the Alexander Nevski Church, not far from which an antiques fair takes place every day. An Orthodox church, a Catholic cathedral, a mosque and a synagogue all coexist there, only a few hundred metres from each other. Europe’s most populated city sits on the very edge of the continent. Across the Bosporus, two bridges connect it with Asia. The former seat of mighty empires − the Roman, the Byzantine and the Ottoman − is today a powerful economic and cultural centre of modern-day Turkey, but not its capital. Istanbul was the 2010 European Capital of Culture and is competing to host the 2020 Olympic Games. Located on a very busy maritime route between the Mediterranean and the Black Sea, vast and magical in its sumptuousness, Istanbul is the last stop of the journey aboard the legendary train. n

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Hotel Dubrovnik, izgraen 1929. godine, jedan je od simbola domaÊe hotelske tradicije poznat po besprijekornoj kvaliteti usluge i vrhunskim hotelijerskim standardima. Od lipnja 2013. godine hotel je u potpunosti renoviran te je zasjao modernim i svjeæim izgledom, stvarajuÊi dobrodoπlicu i opuπten ambijent od samog ulaska u hotel. Unutraπnjost ovog jedinstvenog spomenika kulture takoer je u potpunosti obnovljena. U 2013. godini otvoren je American Steak & Grill House restoran koji se izdiæe iz prosjeËnosti nudeÊi uz prvoklasne i prepoznatljive odreske i pravi ameriËki roπtilj koji je jedinstven u ovom dijelu Europe. Vaæno je napomenti i da svi gosti imaju osiguran parking odmah do Hotela Dubrovnik. Posebnost Hotela Dubrovnik Ëini uistinu jedinstven poloæaj u samom srcu grada, uz sam æivopisni Trg bana Josipa JelaËiÊa.

Hotel Dubrovnik is a renowned hotel with a prime location, on Zagreb’s main city square, and history dating back to 1929. As of June 2013 the hotel has been completely renovated and taken on a modern, light and crisp appearance creating a welcoming and relaxed ambiance from the moment the doors open. The interior and rooms of this unique landmark have been completely rejuvenated. Also opened in 2013 is the American Steak & Grill Restaurant. With expert preparation by experienced grill masters, this restaurant will guarantee the unique taste that can only be found in the U.S. Although located in the very city center, parking is readily available for all guests. Hotel Dubrovnik is an ideal choice for experiencing the liveliness of city and enjoying the views across the picturesque city center.

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■ NOVO KAZALI©TE NEW THEATRE

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Ove godine za odræavanja EUROKAZA (26. lipnja 3. srpnja) Hrvatska Êe pristupiti Europskoj uniji. Kako bi svojim programom pridonio sveËanosti toga povijesnog trenutka, Meunarodni festival novog kazaliπta EUROKAZ osmislio je program koji Êe Hrvatskoj predstaviti neka od najvaænijih redateljskih i koreografskih imena zemalja Ëlanica. Festivalski program tematski ujedinjuje govor o Europi u najrazliËitijim njezinim aspektima.

During this year’s EUROKAZ (26 June to 3 July) Croatia will join the European Union. To join in the celebration of this historical event, EUROKAZ has prepared a programme which will showcase some of the most important ﬁgures from the worlds of directing and choreography who rule the theatrical scenes of the EU

Akram Khan Company: iTMOi (in the mind of igor)

Richard Haughton

member states. The festival programme is themed around Europe as seen from various aspects. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Klaus Lefebvre

inovativnost i impulse πto ne ispunjavaju nego mijenjaju povijest teatra, EUROKAZ je prepoznatljivi kazaliπni brand na svjetskoj razini. Kako bi svojim programom pridonio sveËanosti ulaska Hrvatske u Europsku uniju, ove godine EUROKAZ je osmislio program koji Êe Hrvatskoj predstaviti neka od najvaænijih redateljskih i koreografskih imena zemalja Ëlanica: Francuska, Italija, Velika Britanija, ©panjolska, Slovenija, a kao specijalni gost produkcija je makedonskoga Narodnog teatra iz Bitolja koja se, polazeÊi od TravniËke kronike Ive AndriÊa u reæiji hrvatskog redatelja Branka Brezovca, bavi upravo pitanjima πto znaËi Europa u naπoj regiji danas. Ta je predstava planirana za izvoenje 29. i 30. lipnja, uoËi pristupne sveËanosti 1. srpnja. AKRAM KHAN COMPANY (Velika Britanija) iTMOi Jedna od najveÊih koreografskih i plesaËkih zvijezda danaπnjice, britanski umjetnik Akram Khan, podrijetlom iz Bangladeπa, veÊ je oduπevio zagrebaËku publiku svojim nastupima na EUROKAZU, a mnogi Êe ga pamtiti i po sudjelovanju na sveËanoj ceremoniji otvorenja Olimpijskih igara lani u Londonu, gdje je izveo dijelove upravo iz predstave Vertical Road, koja je 2011. bila na EUROKAZU. Ove godine dolazi u Zagreb sa svojom najnovijom

Klaus Lefebvre

Societas Raffaello Sanzio: O konceptu lica Sina Boæjeg On the Concept of the Face, Regarding the Son of God Redatelj/Directed by Romeo Castellucci

eunarodni festival novog kazaliπta EUROKAZ, kao πto govori njegovo ime, kroz cijelu se svoju povijest bavio Europom i trudio se oko ukljuËenja Hrvatske u europski kulturni prostor. Nakon prvog EUROKAZA koji je odræan 1987. kao dio kulturnog programa Univerzijade, festival postaje redovitnom godiπnjom manifestacijom koju ﬁnanciraju Grad Zagreb i Ministarstvo kulture. Festivalske programe takoer suﬁnanciraju strani kulturni centri i ambasade, a i jedini je festival u Hrvatskoj koji je dobio festivalsku potporu EU programa Kultura 2007.-2013., koji ga je ocijenio najveÊim brojem bodova. EUROKAZ je u svojih 26 izdanja predstavio relevantne europske umjetnike i vaæne kazaliπne trendove i pokrete, od kojih je neke prvi prepoznao i programski artikulirao (npr. ikonoklazam, postmainstream, vertikalni multikulturalizam), te se smatra najznaËajnijim kazaliπnim dogaajem u ovom dijelu Europe. Na njemu su nastupile zvijezde svjetskog teatra u raskoπnim produkcijama renomiranih kazaliπnih kuÊa (npr. beËki Burgtheater, berlinska Schaubühne, Deutsches Schauspielhaus iz Hamburga, pariπki Théâtre Gerard Philippe de Saint-Denis i dr.) kao i nova imena kojima pripada buduÊnost. Zbog autentiËnosti i promiπljenosti selekcije koja naglaπava

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Gerardo Sanz Gerardo Sanz

AngĂŠlica Liddell: Ping Pang Qiu

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ROMEO CASTELLUCCI (Italija) O konceptu lica Sina Boæjeg Romeo Castellucci vodeÊa je ﬁgura europskoga redateljskog kazaliπta, poznat po estetskom radikalizmu te spajanju svih vrsta umjetnosti u svojim predstavama. Jedan je od osnivaËa umjetniËkog kolektiva Societas Raffaello Sanzio, koji je svojim ikonoklastiËkim postupcima revolucionirao europski kazaliπni pejzaæ od ranih osamdesetih do danas. EUROKAZ ih je prepoznao u poËetku karijere tako da su njihovi prvi nastupi izvan Italije u vezi upravo sa Zagrebom i Hrvatskom. Ovaj put predstavit Êe se produkcijom O konceptu lica Sina Boæjeg, koja se bavi pitanjima odnosa pojedinca i vjere u danaπnjoj Europi.

FAUSTIN LINYEKULA (Francuska/DR Kongo) Drums and Digging Kongoanski koreograf, redatelj i plesaË Faustin Linyekula jedan je od najvaænijih inovatora afriËkog plesa i kazaliπta. ©kolovao se u radionicama poznatih francuskih koreografkinja Mathilde Monnier i Regine Chopinot te je njegov rad najveÊim dijelom vezan uz Francusku, gdje stvara veÊinu svojih predstava. Njegovi projekti konceptualno utemeljena pokreta obaraju stereotipnu sliku Konga, crne Afrike uopÊe, koja danas prevladava u zapadnjaËkom svjetonazoru. SuËeljava se s

Naroden teatar Bitola/National Theatre from Bitola TravniËka kronika/Chronicles of Travnik Redatelj/Directed by Branko Brezovec

Sergej Svetozarev

ANGÉLICA LIDDELL (©panjolska) Ping Pang Qiu ©panjolska autorica, redateljica i glumica Angélica Liddell u svojoj najnovijoj predstavi Ping Pang Qiu, preko svojih intimnih iskaza, razlaæe danas vrlo aktualan europski odnos

prema Kini, a preko njega i prema neeuropskim kulturama. Dobitnica je najuglednijih nagrada u ©panjolskoj, meu njima i nacionalne nagrade za dramski tekst (Premio Nacional de Literatura Dramática, 2012). Produciraju je i prikazuju najveÊi europski festivali kao Festival d’Avignon i Wiener Festwochen. Po æestini njezine egzistencije i stvaranja u kojemu najviπe πto je moguÊe izlaæe svoju strastvenu osobnost, Ëesto preko intimne borbe s vlastitim tijelom, mnogi je usporeuju s Fridom Kahlo, a u analizama njezinih predstava i performansa spominju se, kao referencije, imena Marine AbramoviÊ, Yoko Ono, Antonina Artauda.

Sergej Svetozarev

kreacijom iTMOi (in the mind of igor) koja je inspirirana æivotom i radom skladatelja Igora Stravinskog. U predstavi sudjeluju plesaËi iz razliËitih europskih zemalja, a svjetska praizvedba bila je u svibnju tako da Êe hrvatska publika biti meu prvima koja Êe vidjeti taj osobit spektakl.

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otuenjem i ukoËenoπÊu zapadnjaËkih tijela corps de ballet, kreÊe se izmeu sadaπnjosti i proπlosti, kako bi u svojoj re-kreaciji svijeta pokazao razliËite poglede na kolektivnu povijest: kako Europa i Afrika gledaju jedna na drugu? Imaju li zajedniËku povijest? DRAGAN ÆIVADINOV (Slovenija) Izlet u Vitanje: Kulturno srediπte europske svemirske tehnologije (KSEVT) Slovenski umjetnik Dragan Æivadinov, jedan od osnivaËa umjetniËkog pokreta Neue Slowenische Kunst, u posljednjem desetljeÊu svoga rada kombinira umjetnost i znanost. Njegova je opsesija svemir te je 1998. postao kandidatom za astronauta proπavπi obuku u ruskoj bazi u Bajkonuru, a poznat je i po predstavama koje su se odvijale u besteæinskom stanju u ponirajuÊim vojnim avionima. Lani su, na temelju sredstava Europske unije, on i njegova ekipa otvorili fascinantnu zgradu Kulturnog srediπta europske svemirske tehnologije (KSEVT) u mjestu Vitanje u Sloveniji, odakle je rodom Herman PotoËnik Noordung. Tom pioniru astronautike, koji je svojim istraæivanjima tridesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa anticipirao programe kolonizacije svemira, Æivadinov je posvetio svoje djelovanje posljednjih godina, tako je u dijelu KSEVT-a i Noordungov Memorijalni centar. EUROKAZ organizira izlet u Vitanje, gdje Êe Dragan Æivadinov provesti goste kroz stalni postav centra te ih upoznati s aktivnostima i projektima za kulturalizaciju svemira. BRANKO BREZOVEC/NARODEN TEATAR BITOLA (Hrvatska / Makedonija) TravniËka kronika Iz suradnje hrvatskog redatelja Branka Brezovca i ansambla Narodnog teatra iz Bitolja nastao je projekt koji dodiruje povijesne, civilizacijske i politiËke temelje balkanskih prostora i, nakon dva desetljeÊa preteæno stereotipnih, folklorom podræanih pogleda na raspad titovske Jugoslavije, govori superiornim diskursom, vizualnio spektakularnim i energetskim potencijalom te æanrovskom πirinom o Europi i njezinoj periferiji danas. Predstava TravniËka kronika nastaje prema istoimenom romanu pisca nobelovca Ive AndriÊa, koji obrauje sedmogodiπnje razdoblje (1807.−1814.) djelovanja stranih konzula u gradu na periferiji Otomanskoga Carstva, bosanskom Travniku, tada sjediπtu bosanskih vezira. Mozaik likova tvori nerazmrsiv splet istoËne i zapadne kulture u kojemu se sukobljavaju nacije, vjere i sekte, kulturne predrasude, povrπnosti i lukavstva konstruirajuÊi sloæeni amalgam etniËkopsiholoπkih ovisnosti koje redatelj prevodi u danaπnje vrijeme. 104

DALIBOR MARTINIS (Hrvatska) SveËana veËera (u povodu ulaska Hrvatske u Europsku uniju) Jedan od najvaænijih suvremenih hrvatskih umjetnika, Dalibor Martinis, impozantnu je umjetniËku karijeru poËeo sedamdesetih godina, stvarajuÊi na granici izmeu videoumjetnosti i performansa. U radu bavi se razlikama semantiËkih i formalnih struktura, koda i jezika, manipulacijom vremena i prostora. Hrvatska pristupa Europskoj uniji baπ na umjetnikov roendan 1. srpnja. Joπ jedan razlog za slavlje? Ili za æalovanje? Ovisno iz kojega se kuta gleda... Martinisov performans bavi se moguÊim odgovorima na zahtjevnost tog trenutka. n

s its name suggests, the international festival of new theatre EUROKAZ has always focused on Europe, and as such has been instrumental in the immersion of Croatia into the European cultural environment. After the first EUROKAZ, which was held as part of the cultural programme of the World University Games - Zagreb 1987 (Universiade), the festival has become a regular annual event funded by the City of Zagreb and the Ministry of Culture. The festival programmes are also co-fi nanced by foreign culture centres and embassies. It is the only festival in Croatia which has received a maximum score and financial Support to European Cultural Festivals as part of the EU Culture Programme 2007 − 2013. In its 26 editions so far, EUROKAZ has brought relevant European artists before Croatian audiences and promoted the most topical theatrical trends and movements. More often than not, it was the first that recognized and articulated many of those movements and included them in its programme (for example iconoclasm, post-mainstream, vertical multiculturalism). EUROKAZ has established its place on the cultural map of Europe and nowadays it is considered the most significant theatre event in the region. It has hosted international theatre stars in the lavish productions staged by reputable theatres (for example, Vienna’s Burgtheater, Berlin’s Schaubühne, Deutsches Schauspielhaus from Hamburg, Théâtre Gerard Philippe de Saint-Denis from Paris and others), as well as up and coming artists of the independent scene. The authenticity and seriousness in the approach to the selection process which puts a premium on innovation and impulses that do not fill in but rather alter theatre history has turned EUROKAZ into a recognizable theatre brand at a global level.

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AKRAM KHAN COMPANY (Great Britain) iTMOi One of the biggest stars in the world of choreography and modern dance, the Bangladesh-born British artist Akram Khan, has already seduced Zagreb’s audiences during his EUROKAZ appearances. Many will also remember him for his participation in the gala opening of the Olympic Games in London last year when he performed parts of his Vertical Road which he had previously showcased during EUROKAZ 2011. This year, Zagreb will see his newest creation iTMOi (in the mind of igor), a show inspired by the life and work of composer Igor Stravinsky, for which he has gathered a troupe of dancers from various European countries. After the world premiere in May, Zagreb’s audience will be among the first to enjoy this exceptional show. ROMEO CASTELLUCCI (Italy) On the Concept of the Face, Regarding the Son of God Romeo Castellucci is the leading figure in European theatre. He is famous for his aesthetic realism and the integration of various art forms in his shows. He was one of the founders of the artistic company Societas Raffaello Sanzio in the early 80s which revolutionized the European theatre landscape with its iconoclastic procedures. EUROKAZ recognized them at the very beginning of the artist’s career so that the company first appearance outside of Italy happened in Zagreb in Croatia. This year, they will present the production On the Concept of the Face, Regarding the Son of God which tackles the relationship between the individual and faith in modern-day Europe. ANGÉLICA LIDDELL (Spain) Ping Pang Qiu In her newest show, Ping Pang Qiu, Spanish author, director and actress Angélica Liddell presents her intimate approach to the currently very topical issue of the European stance towards China and other nonEuropean cultures. She is the recipient of some of the most coveted Spanish awards,

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including the National Drama Award (Premio Nacional de Literatura Dramática, 2012). Her works are produced and shown at the biggest European festivals, such as Festival d’Avignon and Wiener Festwochen. She is often compared to Frida Kahlo in terms of the fervour of her existence and creation because she is prepared to fully expose her passionate personality often through her intimate struggle with her own body. Reviews of her productions and performances often draw references to Marina AbramoviÊ, Yoko Ono, and Antonin Artaud. FAUSTIN LINYEKULA/STUDIOS KABAKO (France/Democratic Republic of Congo) Drums and Digging The Congolese choreographer, director and dancer Faustin Linyekula is one of the most important innovators in the world of African dance and theatre. Ever since he studied dance under the well known French choreographers Mathilde Monnier and Regine Chopinot his professional activity has been mostly tied to France where he has produced most of his shows. His projects, featuring conceptually based movements, eliminate the stereotype that currently prevails in the western worldviews of the Congo and black Africa as a whole. He confronts the issue of alienation and stiffness of the western corps de ballet, he moves between the present and the past in order to present various views of collective history in his recreation of the world: How do Europe and Africa see each other? Do they have a history in common? DRAGAN ÆIVADINOV (Slovenia) A trip to Vitanje: Cultural Centre of European Space Technology (KSEVT) During the past decade of his professional activity the Slovenian artist Dragan Æivadinov, one of the founders of the artistic movement Neue Slowenische Kunst, has combined art and science. His obsession has always been space. In 1998 he became a space travel candidate after having undergone training in the Russian space base in Baikonur. He is also famous for his shows staged in the condition of weightlessness in free falling military planes. Last year, owing to European Union funding, he and his team opened the fascinating building of the Cultural Centre of European Space Technology (KSEVT) in Slovenian Vitanje, the birth place of Herman PotoËnik Noordung, a pioneer in the ﬁeld of astronautics whose research during the 30s of last century heralded space colonization programmers. Æivadinov has dedicated his activities over in the last two years to

Noordung him so that part of the KSEVT is occupied by Noordung’s Memorial Center. EUROKAZ will organize a trip to Vitanje where Dragan Æivadinov will give his guests a tour of the permanent exhibit and inform them about activities and projects aimed at the culturalization of space. BRANKO BREZOVEC/National Theatre Bitola (Croatia / Macedonia) The Chronicles of Travnik (TravniËka kronika) The cooperation between Croatian director Branko Brezovec and the ensemble of the National Theatre in Bitola has resulted in a project which touches upon the historical, civilizational and political foundations of the Balkans. It uses a superior discourse, and a potential which is both visually spectacular and energetic and makes the most of the full scope of various genres which tell a tale of modern-day Europe and its periphery, including the Balkans, where even two decades after the break-up of Tito’s Yugoslavia the views of the former state are predominantly stereotypical and deeply rooted in folklore. The production of The Chronicles of Travnik is based on the namesake novel by the Nobel Prize winner Ivo AndriÊ who describes the seven year long period (18071814) during which foreign consuls worked in Bosnian Travnik, the then seat of Bosnian vesirs on the periphery of the Ottoman Empire. A complicated mix of Eastern and Western Cultures where ethnicities, religions, sects, cultural prejudices, superﬁcialities and cunning clash and thereby create a complex amalgam of ethnic and psychological interdependencies which the director transposes into the present-day situation. DALIBOR MARTINIS (Croatia) Gala Dinner (SveËana veËera) (on the occasion of Croatia’s accession into the European Union) Dalibor Martinis, one of the most important contemporary Croatian artists, started his impressive artistic career in the 70s of last century. In his creation he has always walked a thin line between video-art and performance. His main areas of interest are the differences between semantic and formal structures, the code and the language and manipulation of time and space. Croatia’s accession to the European Union will coincide with the artist’s birthday on 1 July. Another cause for celebration? Or commiseration? It all depends on the perspective. Martinis’ performance is an attempt to provide answers to the challenges of the moment. n

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Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1 21000 Split, Croatia, p.b. 430 tel/fax: +385 (0)21 490 032, 490 033, 490 036

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redišnji dio Jadranske obale, od Marine na sjeveru do Gradca na jugu, koji se duboko uvukao okolnim planinama pod skute, s niskom otoka i desecima kilometara šljunþanih plaža, sa zelenim zaleÿem koje oplemenjuju rijeke Jadro i Cetina, turistiþka je regija duge i bogate tradicije, povijesti i kulture. Neobiþan spoj prirodnih ljepota oplemenjenih antiþkim, starohrvatskim, romaniþkim i puþkim graditeljstvom, koji se duž obale i na otocima zrcali u gradiüima i urbanim središtima, pruža gostu raznolike moguünosti odmora i zabave, uspavljujuüu tišinu, ali i buþne mediteranske noüi natopljene toplim dahom juga. Ono što je zajedniþko svemu je jednostavna i dobrodušna srdaþnost domaüina, njihova vedra i buþna narav, njihova nepatvorena želja da gostu podare sve najbolje. To je bogatstvo koje se ne može po povratku spremiti u kovþeg, ali ono üe ispunjavati vašu dušu sve do sljedeüeg dolaska u Srce Jadrana.

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he central part of the Adriatic coast, from the Marina in the north to Gradac in the south, deeply drawn under the skirts of the surrounding mountains, with a series of islands and tens of kilometres of pebbled beaches, with a green hinterland further enriched by the rivers Jadro and Cetina, is a tourist area with a long and rich tradition, history and culture. The unusual combination of natural beauty enriched by antic, old-Croatian, Romanesque and local folk architecture, which is reÀected along the coast and islands in the small towns and urban centres, offers guests a variety of opportunities for rest and fun, a lulling silence but also noisy Mediterranean nights wrapped in the warm breeze of the south. That which is common to it all is the simple and warm hearted welcome offered by your hosts, their cheerful and noisy nature, and their undisguised desire to offer their guests the best of everything. This is a treasure which cannot be packed in a suitcase when returning home but it will ¿ll your soul until your next visit in The Heart of Adriatic. 6/12/13 2:59 PM

COLOU R S

S P LIT

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SU M M ER

1 5 . l i p n j a - J u n e 15 2 7 . r u j n a S e p t e m b e r 27 2 0 1 3. Download the free official mobile city guide VISIT SPLIT from App Store

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FESTIVALI FESTIVALS ■

Piπe/By Martina ValidžiÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos SPFF arhiva/archive

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Upravo je Starigrad jednom bio nezaobilazno odrediπte filmskih ekipa sa svih strana svijeta. U Starigradu i Paklenici snimali su Kirk Douglas, Omar Shariff, Denny DeVito, Silvia Christel te brojne domaÊe ekipe uza, svakako, nezaboravne prizore legendarnog Winnetoua. Danas je Starigrad, veÊ tradicionalno, domaÊin meunarodnog festivala glazbenoga dokumentarnog filma. Starigrad, a one-time unavoidable destination for film crews from all over the world, saw the likes of Kirk Douglas, Omar Shariff, Denny DeVito, Silvia Christel and numerous Croatian stars shooting films there. It was also the set of the unforgettable scenes in the legendary Winnetou films. Nowadays, Starigrad hosts a traditional international music documentary film festival.

rvatska i njezine ljepote nadaleko su poznate svima kojima je ona sinonim za odmor, sunce, Ëisto more i prekrasne plaæe, duh i dah Mediterana. StoljeÊima su ljudi silazili na hrvatski dio Jadrana kako bi si priuπtili nezaboravne trenutke relaksacije i odmora. No, u danaπnje vrijeme samo sunce i more nisu jedine prepoznatljive toËke hrvatskih ljepota. Brz naËin æivota, stalna æelja da se vidi i doæivi više, obiljeæja su danaπnjega suvremenog turizma, a prirodne ljepote u kombinaciji s dobrim sadræajem jamËe zacijelo savrπeno provedeno vrijeme za odmor. ImajuÊi sve to na umu, pronaπli smo naËin kako spojiti hrvatske ljepote i kulturu u poseban proizvod, rijedak proizvod koji veÊ Ëetvrtu godinu privlaËi pozornost domaÊih i inozemnih gostiju i medija, Starigrad Paklenica Film Festival − meunarodni festival glazbenoga dokumentarnog filma. SPFF − Starigrad Paklenica Film Festival održava se u malome prigorskome mjestu na obali, u Starigradu podno Velebita, u jednome od najljepπih nacionalnih parkova u Hrvatskoj. Mnogi su se pitali zaπto baπ Starigrad, zaπto Paklenica, zaboravljajuÊi da je upravo Starigrad bio jednom mjesto koje je bilo nezaobilazno odredište filmskih ekipa sa svih strana svijeta. U Starigradu i Paklenici snimali su Kirk Douglas, Omar Shariff, Denny DeVito, Silvia Christel te brojne domaÊe ekipe uza, svakako, nezaboravne prizore legendarnog Winnetoua. Eto odgovora zaπto Starigrad i Paklenica. Zato jer SPFF nastavlja sjajnu filmsku tradiciju toga podvelebitskog mjesta, privlaËeÊi iz godine u godinu sve više filmskih i glazbenih autora sa svih strana svijeta. Nije nimalo zanemarivo to πto se SPFF odræava u srcu Paklenice, u Velikom Kanjonu, πto tu lokaciju pretvara u najljepπe i najbajkovitije kino na svijetu. Prethodne smo tri godine imali priliku ugostiti mnoga velika imena iz svijeta filmske i glazbene industrije, koji su na SPFF-u predstavili svoje filmove, Oscarom nagraivane redatelje poput Davisa Guggenheima i Rogera Rossa Williamsa, zatim Leslieja Woodheada, Deborah Young, Edina Karamazova, Pjera Æalicu,

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Vlatka Stefanovskog, sve do velikog Stinga koji je lani dobio i posebnu nagradu SPFF-a za veliki doprinos filmskoj i glazbenoj industriji. Sve to nastavljamo i ove godine, SPFF Êe ponuditi pregrπt sjajnih naslova iz æanra glazbenoga dokumentarnog filma, mahom hrvatske premijere u obje kategorije, cjeloveËernjega i kratkoga glazbenoga dokumentarnog filma. Takoer, publika Êe imati priliku upoznati se i s recentnim radovima slovenskih autora u programu Slovenija − zemlja partner. Pa krenimo redom. Nekoliko je naslova u kategoriji cjeloveËernjega glazbenog dokumentarca koji Êe zacijelo publiku ostaviti bez daha. Zaista, bila bi to velika nepravda izdvajati neki film posebno, ali valja reÊi da je prava poslastica za sve zaljubljenike u film i glazbu Searching for Sugar Man πvedskog redatelja Malika Bedjelloula, nagraenoga Oscarom. Sugar Man dobio je u proteklih godinu dana sve znaËajnije svjetske festivalske nagrade, De Nirovu Tribecu, Redfordov Sundance, a kao πlag na torti doπao je na kraju i Oscar. Pouzdano je da Êe se ove godine traæiti karta više za sve projekcije jer ni druga kategorija, ona kratkoga glazbenog dokumentarca, ne zaostaje svojim sadræajem. IstiËemo da smo ove godine primili i dosad najviπe filmova hrvatske produkcije, πto potvruje sve veÊe zanimanje autora za tim filmskim æanrom. Slovenski tjedan predstavit Êe kombinaciju novih radova i neËega πto smo veÊ imali prilike vidjeti. Filmovi o legendarnome Marku Brecelju, Damiru AvdiÊu, Janu Plestenjaku dovoljan su poziv svima da nam se pridruæe u kinu Plaæa, koje Êe ove godine premijerno ugostiti prve gledatelje. Svakako moramo istaknuti da 4. SPFF 2013., kao i svake godine dosad, donosi i mnogo glazbenih poslastica nakon filmskih projekcija. CROATIA AIRLINES

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U vreloj ljetnoj atmosferi, priliËno æivih svirki i DJ partyja, jamËe nezaboravne trenutke u fenomenalnom ambijentu Paklenice. Taj isti ambijent Paklenice preko dana poæeljno je odrediπte za odmak od festivalskih i ljetnih vruÊina, zbog Ëega je, u kombinaciji sa sjajnim plaæama, Starigrad Paklenica Film Festival neπto što se ne propuπta. Napokon, ne preostaje nam reÊi niπta više osim: Veæite se, polijeÊemo, odredište Starigrad Paklenica Film Festival. ■

roatia and its natural beauty are widely known, and many find it to be an epitome of leisure, sunshine, clean sea waters and stunning beaches, embodying the spirit and breath of the Mediterranean. People have toured and frequented the Croatian coast of the Adriatic for centuries in search of unforgettable moments of relaxation. But, today the sun and the sea are no longer the only recognisable ingredients of the beauties of Croatia. A fast pace of life, and a burning desire to see and experience more are what today’s tourism industry requires. Natural beauty coupled with quality content are a guarantee of a perfect holiday. Keeping in mind the above, a way to fuse Croatia’s natural beauty with culture has been found, creating a unique and one-of-a-kind product, which has been attracting the attention of both domestic and foreign guests and the media for four consecutive years already − the international Starigrad Paklenica Film Festival (SPFF) dedicated to music documentary films. SPFF has made the small coastal town of Starigrad, situated just beneath the steep slopes of Velebit and in one of the most breathtaking national parks in Croatia, its home. Many have wondered why Starigrad, why Paklenica, all the while forgetting that Starigrad was once a destination which could not be avoided by film crews arriving from all around the world. Kirk Douglas, Omar Shariff, Denny DeVito, Silvia Christel and countless Croatian film crews have filmed in both Starigrad and Paklenica. Naturally, the unforgettable scenes of the legendary film Winnetou are not be ignored either. This explains why Starigrad, why Paklenica. Because SPFF has continued the long-running tradition of filming in this coastal town at the foot of Velebit, each year steadily attracting an increasing number of filmmakers and musicians from around the world. The fact that SPFF takes place at the heart of Paklenica, at the Velika Paklenica Canyon, is a special highlight, transforming the location into the most astonishing and fairytale-like cinema of the world. In the previous three years, SPFF had the honour of hosting some of the biggest names

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from the film and music industries, names who presented their films at the SPFF, including the Academy Award winning directors Davis Guggenheim and Roger Ross Williams, Leslie Woodhead, Deborah Young, Edin Karamazov, Pjer Æalica, Vlatko Stefanovski, and the great Sting, who received the SPFF 2012 Award for Special Contribution to the Film and Music Industry. The story continues this year with SPFF screening an abundance of brilliant music documentary film titles, most of which will be Croatian premieres in both categories − feature-length and short music documentaries. Also, this year’s Partner Country Programme features Slovenia, giving festival-goers the chance to find out more about some of the most recent work filmed by Slovenian authors. The list goes as follows. SPFF brings a few titles in the category of feature-length music documentaries which are bound to leave the audience breathless. In fact, it would indeed be unjust to single out any of the featurelength films, but Searching for Sugar Man by the Oscar winning Swedish film director Malik Bedjelloul will surely be the icing on the cake for all film and music lovers. Sugar Man won all the most prestigious world festival awards last year, including De Niro’s Tribeca and Redford’s Sundance, with the Oscar it won being the cherry on top. There is bound to be a ticket shortage this year, given that the other, short music documentary category is just as thrilling. It is also to be stressed that this year’s film submissions have seen the largest number of Croatian productions, which seems to only confirm that interest in this film genre has increased significantly. The Slovenian week will feature a blend of latest work and films we have already had the chance to watch. Films about the legendary Marko Brecelj, Damir AvdiÊ and Jan Plestenjak should be enough to tempt everyone to join us at Plaæa Cinema, which is due to open its doors this summer. It must also be mentioned that, as previously, the 4th SPFF 2013 also brings real music treats after the screenings. The steaming hot summer in the stunning ambience of Paklenica, abounding in live music performances and DJ parties, promises to be memorable. It is not to be forgotten that the same surroundings of Paklenica are just as highly desirable a destination during the day, should anyone wish to escape both the festival and summer heat. In other words, combined with brilliant beaches, the SPFF week is not to be missed. At the end, what else is there to say but: Fasten your seat belts for takeoff. Destination: Starigrad Paklenica Film Festival. ■

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Piše/By Davorka Vukov Colić

ek koji dan prije sveËanog ulaska Republike Hrvatske u Europsku uniju prvoga srpnja, u Splitu se od 24. do 28. lipnja odræava Osmi kongres forenziËke, antropoloπke i medicinske genetike (The Eighth ISABS Conference on Forensic, Anthropologic and Medical Genetics and Mayo Clinic Lectures in Translational Medicine). Glavni je organizator skupa Meunarodno druπtvo primijenjenih bioloπkih znanosti (International Society of Applied Biological Sciences), a ove godine oËekuje se rekordnih 550 sudionika i viπe od 80 predavaËa, ukupno iz 45 zemalja. Meu njima tri su nobelovca - kristalografkinja dr. Ade Yonatha sa Znanstvenog instituta Weizmann, biolog dr. Aaron Ciechanovera s izraelskoga tehnoloπkog instituta Technion i biokemiËar dr. Robert Huber s Instituta za biokemiju Max Planck. Uz ISABS i organizatore s hrvatske strane (SveuËiliπta u Splitu, Rijeci i Osijeku, Hrvatsko druπtvo za humanu genetiku hrvatskog lijeËniËkog zbora, Akademija pravnih znanosti Hrvat-

Samo koji dan uoËi ulaska Republike Hrvatske u EU, u Splitu se odræava Osmi kongres forenziËke, antropoloπke i medicinske genetike (Eighth ISABS Conference on Forensic, Anthropologic and Medical Genetics and Mayo Clinic Lectures in Translational Medicine), na koji zrakoplovima Croatia Airlinesa stiæe svjetska znanstvena elita. Dva desetljeÊa nakon πto je grupa ameriËkih forenziËara stigla prvi put u Hrvatsku da joj pomogne u identifikaciji ærtava krvavoga agresorskog rata na Hrvatsku, taj srediπnji znanstveni dogaaj u Europi 2013. πalje i snaænu simboliËku poruku. The Eighth ISABS Conference on Forensic, Anthropologic and Medical Genetics and Mayo Clinic Lectures in Translational Medicine is taking place on the eve of the accession of the Republic of Croatia to the EU. The international scientific elite is arriving in Split aboard Croatia Airlines aeroplanes. Being held two decades after a group of American forensic experts first arrived in Croatia to help identify the victims of the bloody aggression against Croatia, the Conference is a major scientific event in Europe in 2013, sending a powerful symbolic message. 120

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ske, Institut za antropologiju, Institut Ruera BoπkoviÊa, Genos d.o.o., Specijalna bolnica sveta Katarina, DjeËja bolnica Srebrnjak, a pokrovitelj je Hrvatska akademija znanosti i umjetnosti), suorganizatori su i Ëetiri velike ameriËke institucije, Klinika Mayo, SveuËiliπta George Washington, New Haven i Penn State. Golemi doprinos u organizaciji skupa dali su i Europska komisija preko svoga FP7 (Sedmi okvirni program), grad Split, æupanija Splitsko-dalmatinska te vodeÊe farmaceutske kompanije Pliva i Belupo. Na skup dolaze vodeÊi svjetski struËnjaci s podruËja forenziËkih znanosti, kliniËke i molekularne medicine, iz najuglednijih institucija i sveuËiliπta, poput: Duke University, Harvard School of Medicine, George-Washington University, Thomas Jefferson University, Baylor College of Medicine, Weizmann Institute of Science, Institute of Technology, University of California Riverside, Penn State University, University of New Haven; putuju iz Australije, Novog Zelanda, Nepala, Kine, Indije, Juæne i Sjeverne Amerike, iz niza europskih zemalja. Sve u svemu, dovoljno da splitski skup bude zabiljeæen kao srediπnji znanstveni dogaaj u Europi 2013.godine ili, kako su ga neki veÊ nazvali, festival svjetske znanosti. A meu sudionicima Kongresa stiæe i ameriËka ekipa: jedan od vodeÊih svjetskih forenziËara dr. Henry Lee sa sveuËiliπta New Haven, dr. Mitchell Holland, nekadaπnji direktor Instituta ameriËke vojske za identifikaciju i sadaπnji direktor forenziËkog programa na ameriËkom sveuËiliπtu Penn State, genetiËar dr. Moses Schanfield sa SveuËiliπta Georgea Washingtona. Uz njih je u prvim identifikacijama sudjelovao i vodeÊi ameriËki forenziËar-patolog Michael Baden iz New York State Police. Ta ameriËka forenziËka ekipa snova proËula se istraæivanjem nekih od najpoznatijih sluËajeva u SAD-u, od istraæivanja ubojstva predsjednika J.F. Kennedyja i M. Luthera-Kinga do sluËaja O. J. Simpsona, no te 1993., u jeku rata, zajedno s dr. Draganom Primorcem (u to se doba kao mladi lijeËnik zatekao u SAD-u na istraæivanju genetske osnove koπtanih bolesti u djece) odazvali su se pozivu hrvatskih vlasti i hrvatskih forenziËara poput dr. ©imuna AnelinoviÊa da pomognu identificirati ærtve agresije na Hrvatsku i BiH. AmeriËka ekipa tako je stigla u Hrvatsku i BiH prije toËno dvadeset godina, u dramatiËnim okolnosima, u vrijeme kada je osamostaljena Hrvatska tek ulazila u svjetsku zajednicu i nije joπ mogla sanjati o Ëlanstvu u EU. U cijeli projekt ukljuËila se vodeÊa ameriËka humanitarna udruga AmeriCares, kojoj je poËasna predsjednica bila Barbara Bush, projekt je vodio Stephen Skakel, rodbinski

povezan s obitelji Kennedy, a prvi je zadatak bio opremanje forenziËkog DNA laboratorija pri KliniËkom bolniËkom centru Split. Upravo tada otkrivene su masovne grobnice na Kupresu. Kako su tijela ærtava bila u tako loπem stanju da ih je bilo nemoguÊe identificirati, preostala je jedino nova tehnologija DNK, nikada do tada koriπtena u obradi velikog broja ærtava pronaenih u masovnim grobnicama. Neki od ameriËkih struËnjaka prvi su je put uspjeπno primijenili u identificiranju posmrtnih ostataka ameriËkih vojnika pronaenih u Vijetnamu i Koreji te poslije u identifikaciji skeletnih ostataka cara Nikole II. i obitelji, ubijenih u vihoru Oktobarske revolucije, Ëije su kosti pronaene u Sibiru 1991. godine. I doista, prvi su rezultati uskoro stigli, a o uspjesima ameriËkih i hrvatskih struËnjaka pisali su ugledni ameriËki dnevnici ukljuËujuÊi The New York Times, US Today i Chicago Tribune, te vodeÊi znanstveni Ëasopisi kao πto su Science, Lancet i JAMA, a TV postaja iz Connecticuta, Channel 8, snimila je dokumentarac o njihovu radu. − Utvrivanje identiteta ærtava postao nam je prioritet, a tijekom izvrsne suradnje s vodeÊim ameriËkim forenziËarima razvili smo nove tehnologije i postupke, zbog Ëega je hrvatska forenzika danas pozicionirana u svjetskom vrhu − sjeÊa se tih poËetaka naπ genetiËar, forenziËar i stalni sudski vjeπtak dr. Dragan Primorac, danas profesor na sveuËiliπtima Penn State i New Haven, redoviti profesor na Medicinskom fakultetu u Splitu i Osijeku, te suosnivaË splitske forenzike. Ukratko: u znanstvenim krugovima smatra se da je ova skupina ameriËko-hrvatskih forenziËara, jedna od prvih, ako ne i prva u svijetu, pokrenula identifikaciju velikog broja ærtava masovnih grobnica koristeÊi se DNA tehnologijom, postavljajuÊi standarde koje su poslije prihvaÊali drugi. GovoreÊi o kolegama iz tog vremena, Primorac ne skriva emocije, pa nastavlja: − Hrvatska nikad neÊe zaboraviti πto su za nju napravili ameriËki znanstvenici πto se tiËe razvoja naπe forenzike i utvrivanja istine o ærtvama Domovinskog rata. RijeË je o nekima od najuglednijih ameriËkih intelektualaca, koji su u tom trenutku napustili svoje domove, sigurne karijere, udoban æivot i obitelji, kako bi obilazili minska polja u Hrvatskoj i BiH, pomagali u identifikaciji nevinih ærtava, omoguÊili obiteljima ærtava da dostojno pokopaju bliænje i svjedoËili istinu o ratu. Rezultati njihova rada bili su kljuËni u utvrivanju istine o ratu u Hrvatskoj i Bosni i Hercegovini. VeÊ 1996. godine dr. Primorac je predloæio kolegama iz AmeriËke akademije za forenziËke znanosti, Ëiji je i on Ëlan, da nakon tih

intenzivnih zajedniËkih ameriËko-hrvatskih iskustava osnuju organizaciju koja Êe biti simbioza i poveznica europske i ameriËke forenzike. Ideju je, sjeÊa se Primorac, odmah prihvatio prof. Moses Schanﬁeld i uskoro je zaæivjelo Meunarodno druπtvo primijenjenih bioloπkih znanosti (International Society of Applied Biological Sciences-ISABS), a ideji se pridruæio prof. Stanimir Vuk-PavloviÊ s glasovite Klinike Mayo. Godinu poslije u Splitu je organizirana prva konferencija, a zatim svake druge u Zagrebu, Dubrovniku i Bolu na BraËu. Suraivalo se izvrsno, kaæe dr. Primorac, osobito s Klinikom Mayo, koja je s vremenom postala i suorganizator kongresa. Tijekom vremena na konferencijama je sudjelovalo 2700 sudionika i 240 predavaËa iz πezdesetak zemalja, potvrujuÊi ISABS kao svjetski prepoznatljivu organizaciju na podruËju forenziËke i kliniËke genetike, te translacijske medicine. Sluæbeni je Ëasopis ISABS-a od 2001. godine Croatian Medical Journal, Ëiji su tematski brojevi veoma Ëitani, a Ëlanci objavljeni u njima predmet rasprava diljem svijeta te osobito vaæni za donoπenje presuda na sudovima u nizu dræava. Na ovogodiπnjemu je Osmom kongresu meu predavaËima i prof. dr. Manfred Kayser, jedan od vodeÊih svjetskih struËnjaka iz tzv. forenziËke fenotipizacije πto se bavi istraæivanjem razliËitih aspekata biologije i genetike, koji mogu razviti nove moguÊnosti u rjeπavanju dosad nerazrijeπenih forenziËkih sluËajeva. Naime, on i njegov tim uspjeli su mapirati gene vaæne za odreivanje boje oËiju, te na osnovi toga razviti test za forenziËku aplikaciju, Ëime se moæe lakπe identiﬁcirati poËinitelj kaznenog djela. U radu kongresa sudjelovat Êe i Christopher Asplen, pomoÊnik dræavne odvjetnice SAD-a, tijekom mandata Janet Reno, koji je imao veliku ulogu u rjeπavanju zakonskih okvira pri uvoenju forenziËke analize DNA u SAD-u. Izmeu ostaloga, obnaπao je i duænost direktora Nacionalnog Povjerenstva za forenziËku DNA analizu u SAD-u, a njegovo povjerenstvo je imalo kljuËnu ulogu u implementaciji DNA tehnologija u kazneno-pravnom sustavu SADa. Tu je i prof. dr. Mitchel Holland, direktor

Dan Shechtman (Nobelova nagrada/ Nobel prize 2011) i/and Dragan Primorac CROATIA AIRLINES

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forenziËkog programa SveuËiliπta Penn State, jedan od vodeÊih svjetskih znanstvenika za analizu mitohondrijske DNA, koji je niz godina radio kao direktor DNA laboratorija u sklopu Instituta za patologiju ameriËke vojske u Rockvilleu, gdje su se prvi put metodom DNA identiﬁcirali skeletni ostaci ameriËkih vojnika, pronaeni u Vijetnamu i Koreji. ZvuËno je ime genetiËar dr. Frederick Bieber s Harvarda, koji je sudjelovao u identiﬁciranju ærtvi napada na World Trade Centar, uragan Katrina i Rita, a o znaËenju genetike kaæe: − Nekada sam vjerovao da je genetika podspecijalnost medicine, a s danaπnjim iskustvom uvjeren sam da je medicina podspecijalnost genetike. Osobita je pozornost posveÊena temama kao πto su DNK baze podataka u svrhu otkrivanja poËinitelja kaznenog djela (forensic DNA database) i novim tehnologijama u forenziËkim znanostima. Jedna je od kljuËnih tema kongresa molekularna antropologija, gdje Êe se obraditi niz tema vaænih za æivot neandertalca, migracije nakon posljednjega ledenog doba itd. Zanimljiva je i tema o tzv. DNA obdukciji, primjenjivoj u

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sluËajevima nejasnih uzroka smrti, a ove godine osobito je aktualan tzv. cyber crime ili kriminal povezan s novim tehnologijama i druπtvenim mreæama, o Ëemu Êe govoriti general Yitzhak Ben Yisrael, jedan od najveÊih svjetskih autoriteta na tom podruËju, Ëelni Ëovjek Izraelske svemirske agencije i bivπi savjetnik premijera Benjamina Netanyahua. U kliniËkom dijelu kongresa naglasak je stavljen na tzv. translacijsku medicinu, a bit Êe rijeËi o novim pristupima u kreiranju individualne terapije za svakog pojedinca, iskljuËivo ovisno o njegovu genomu, novostima iz molekularne dijagnostike, staniËne i genska terapije, itd. VodeÊi svjetski struËnjaci iz podruËja molekularne medicine, poput dr. Malcolma Brennera, govorit Êe o najnovijim postupcima u lijeËenju karcinoma, ili dr. Franklyn Prendergast o novostima u vezi s personaliziranom medicinom, gdje se lijeËenje kreira prema farmakogenetskom proﬁlu dotiËnog bolesnika. Jedna tema posveÊena je glikolizaciji (proces vezanja sloæenih πeÊernih struktura na proteine i lipide, nap.a.). MisleÊi na buduÊnost, veÊ na prvome splitskom kongresu naËinjen je odmak od uo-

biËajene prakse organiziranja takvih skupova, kad je kao uvod u kongres, u netom zavrπenoj zgradi Medicinskog fakulteta, upriliËen za mlade praktiËni rad na podruËju genetike, πto je odmah privuklo sudionike iz susjednih zemalja i njihov je broj rastao iz godine u godinu. Tako studenti i ove godine tjedan prije odræavanja kongresa u organizaciji sveuËiliπta New Haven i dr. Timothyja Palmbacha u praksi prolaze sve vaæne teme, od izuzimanja bioloπkih tragova i balistike, do analize krvnih mrlja. Usto uz niz najboljih studenata iz Hrvatske i regije, petnaest najboljih hrvatskih srednjoπkolaca ove godine dobiva priliku prisustvovati kongresu i druæiti se s nobelovcima, a πest najboljih mladih istraæivaËa iz cijeloga svijeta, troje s kliniËkog podruËja i troje s podruËja forenzike, bit Êe nagraeno tzv. Young Investigator Awardom. Od doba ameriËke ekipe mnogo se toga promijenilo, no dr. Primorac ne zaboravlja vrijeme kad je grupa vrhunskih struËnjaka pruæala usrdnu pomoÊ u nevolji. On sve ovo vrijeme s njima surauje, a poznanstvo s gospoom Barbarom Bush, kaæe, doæivljava

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duboko emotivno, jer davala je potporu kada je bilo najteæe i pomagala da zaæivi hrvatska foreznika. - Prije nekoliko godina, toËnije 2008., kao ministar znanosti, obrazovanja i sporta Republike Hrvatske od nje sam primio pismo u kojemu me obavjeπtava da njezin sin, predsjednik SAD-a George W. Bush, dolazi u posjet Hrvatskoj - sjeÊa se dr. Primorac. Tijekom naπeg susreta predsjedniku sam joπ jedanput zahvalio za sve πto je SAD uËinio za Hrvatsku.. Sada, dva desetljeÊa poslije, ista ameriËka ekipa koja je zapoËela postupke identiﬁkacija koristeÊi se DNA tehnologijom, zajedno s nizom vodeÊih svjetskih znanstvenika, dolazi u Hrvatsku u sasvim drugom svojstvu, πaljuÊi golemu simboliËku poruku, a mnogi veÊ danas ovaj kongres doæivljavaju kao jedan od najveÊih znanstvenih brandova Republike Hrvatske. ■

he Eighth ISABS Conference on Forensic, Anthropologic and Medical Genetics and Mayo Clinic Lectures in Translational Medicine is being held in Split between 24th and 28th June, only a few days before the accession ceremony of the Republic of Croatia to the European Union on 1st July. The chief organiser of the event is the Interna-

tional Society for Applied Biological Sciences (ISABS). A record number of 550 participants are expected to attend this year’s Conference and listen to over 80 speakers from a total of 45 countries. They include three Nobel Prize winners − namely, crystallographer Dr. Ada Yonath from the Weizmann Institute of Science, biologist Dr. Aaron Ciechanover from Technion, Israel, and biochemist Dr. Robert Huber from the Max Planck Institute of Biochemistry. Besides ISABS and the other Croatian organisers (i.e., the Universities of Split, Rijeka, and Osijek, the Croatian Society of Human Genetics of the Croatian Medical Association, the Croatian Academy of Legal Sciences, the Institute for Anthropological Research, the Ruer BoπkoviÊ Institute, Genos d.o.o., St. Catherine Special Hospital in Zabok, Children’s Hospital Srebrnjak, and the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts as sponsor), the event is co-organised by four large American institutions − namely, Mayo Clinic, the George Washington and Pennsylvania State Universities, and the University of New Haven. The European Commission has helped the organisation of the Conference through its Seventh Framework Programme (FP7), and so have the City of Split, the Split and Dalmatia County, and Pliva and Belupo, two leading pharmaceutical companies.

Arriving from the most prestigious institutions and universities, such as Duke University, Harvard Medical School, George Washington University, Thomas Jefferson University, Baylor College of Medicine, Weizmann Institute of Science, the Institute of Technology, University of California Riverside, Pennsylvania State University and the University of New Haven, leading international experts in the fields of forensic science, and clinical and molecular medicine will take part in the Conference. They come from Australia, New Zealand, China, India, South and North America, and a number of European countries. All in all, this is enough for the Split Conference to go down in history as the pivotal scientific event in Europe in 2013, or as some have already called it − a world science festival. The American team will also be amongst the participants − Dr. Henry Lee from the University of New Haven, one of the leading forensic authorities worldwide, Dr. Mitchell Holland, former director of the Armed Forces Institute of Pathology and currently Director of the Forensic Science Programme at Pennsylvania State University, and Dr. Moses Schanfield, a genetics expert from George Washington University. Besides the three, Michael Baden, a leading American forensic CROATIA AIRLINES

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expert and pathologist from the New York State Police Department, was also a member of the American forensic dream team that conducted the first forensic identifications in Croatia. The team gained fame while working on some of the most famous criminal cases in the USA, including the assassinations of President J. F. Kennedy and M. Luther King, and the O. J. Simpson case. Still, in 1993, in the midst of a raging war, they accepted the invitation extended by the Croatian authorities and Croatian forensic experts, including Dr. ©imun AnelinoviÊ, and came to Croatia together with Dr. Dragan Primorac (who was a young doctor studying genetic predisposition to bone disease in children in the USA) to help identify the victims of the aggression against Croatia, and Bosnia and Herzegovina. The American team arrived in Croatia exactly 20 years ago, in dramatic circumstances, at a time when independent Croatia was making its first steps into the community of nations and could only dream about EU membership. AmeriCares, a leading American charity organisation got on board. Barbara Bush was its honorary president, and Stephen Skakel, related to the Kennedy family, the project leader. The first task was to equip a forensic DNA laboratory at the Clinical Hospital Split. Mass graves were discovered in Kupres at that time. Given that the victims’ mortal remains were in such a bad state that it was impossible to identify them, the only option was DNA analysis, a new technology never before used to process a large number of victims whose bodies were discovered in mass graves. A number of American experts were the first to use the technology successfully for identifying the remains of US soldiers found in Vietnam and Korea, and later for identify-

ing the mortal remains of Tsar Nicholas II and his family, all killed during the whirlwind of the October Revolution and whose bones were discovered in Siberia in 1991. Indeed, as the first results started coming in, some of the most influential American dailies, including The New York Times, USA Today and Chicago Tribune, as well as a number of leading scientific magazines, such as Science Magazine, The Lancet and JAMA, started writing about them, while Channel 8, a Connecticut based TV station, shot a documentary about their work. − Establishing the identity of the victims became our top priority. As a result of excellent collaboration with leading American forensic experts, we developed new techniques and procedures, which is why Croatian forensic science today occupies a very prominent position on the world map, says Croatia’s genetic and forensic expert, Dr. Dragan Primorac, remembering those early days. He is a professor at Pennsylvania State University and the University of New Haven, a full professor at the Schools of Medicine in Split and Osijek, and a co-founder of the University Department of Forensic Science in Split. In a nutshell, in scientific circles it is held that this group of American and Croatian forensic experts was one of the first, if not indeed the first, to have embarked on a project aiming to identify a large number of mortal remains found in mass graves using DNA technology, having set standards which have since been adopted by many others. When speaking about his then colleagues, Primorac does not hide his emotions. He states: − Croatia will never forget what American scientists did for Croatia in terms of developing our own forensic science and establishing

Robert Huber (Nobelova nagrada/Nobel prize 1988), Dragan Primorac, Henry Lee

the truth about the victims of war. Some of the most reputable American intellectuals decided to leave their homes, safe careers, a comfortable life and their families to tour mine fields in Croatia, and Bosnia and Herzegovina, to help identify innocent victims and so give their families the chance to bury their loved ones, and to bear testimony to the atrocities of war. The results of their work were key in discovering the truth about the wars in Croatia, and Bosnia and Herzegovina. In 1996, Dr. Primorac approached his fellow colleagues at the American Academy of Forensic Sciences, proposing that they set up an organisation which would be a symbiosis and a link between European and American forensic science. Dr. Primorac remembers that Professor Moses Schanfield was the first to jump at the idea. It did not take long for ISABS to be set up. The idea was also embraced by Professor Stanimir Vuk-PavloviÊ from the famous Mayo Clinic. A year later, the first conference was organised in Split, and from then on biennially in Zagreb, Dubrovnik and Bol on the Island of BraË. − Our collaboration has been excellent, especially with Mayo Clinic, which at one point

Pružamo vam pravovremene informacije iz 2000 različitih medija u regiji upravo o onim temama koje su VAMA važne!

SIX CONTINENTS NEWS

Naručite informacije iz bilo kojeg dijela svijeta! clipping u svijetu – 160 godina tradicije

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became a conference co-organiser, continues Dr. Primorac. A total of 2,700 participants have attended the conferences and have listened to 240 lecturers from some 60 countries ever since, having thus confirmed ISABS’s position as an internationally recognised authority in the fields of forensics, clinical genetics and translational medicine. Since 2001, the Croatian Medical Journal has been the official journal of ISABS. Its thematic issues are widely read, and the papers it publishes are not only discussed worldwide, but are also critical benchmarks for judiciary bodies in a number of countries in passing court decisions. One of the lecturers at this year’s Conference will be Professor Dr. Manfred Kayser, one of the leading world experts in so-called forensic phenotypisation, a subspecialty which researches different aspects of biology and genetics that could lead to the development of new technologies for resolving unresolved forensic cases. He and his team have succeeded in mapping out the genes important to establish eye colour, based on which he has developed a forensic application test which helps to identify perpetrators. Another expert invited to participate in the work of the Conference is Christopher Asplen, Assistant United States Attorney during Janet Reno’s term of office. He played a pivotal role in setting up the legal framework for the introduction of DNA forensic analysis in the USA. In his career, he worked as Executive Director of the National Commission on the Future of DNA Evidence, a body which played a key role in implementing DNA technology in the criminal justice system in the USA. There is also Prof. Dr. Mitchell Holland, Director of the Forensic

Science Programme at Pennsylvania State University, one of the leading world experts in mitochondrial DNA sequence analysis. For a number of years, he worked as Director of the Armed Forces DNA Identification Laboratory (AFDIL) in Rockville, which was in charge of the first DNA-assisted identification of the mortal remains of US soldiers killed in Vietnam and Korea. Another resounding name is that of geneticist Dr. Frederick Bieber from Harvard, who participated in the identification of the victims of the attacks on the World Trade Centre, and hurricanes Katrina and Rita. This is what he says about the importance of genetics: − There was a time when I believed that genetics was a subspecialty of medicine. Now, my experience tells me that medicine is a subspecialty of genetics. Much attention will be given to topics such as forensic DNA databases, whose purpose is to help identify criminals and perpetrators, and to new technologies in forensic science. One of the central topics of the Conference is molecular anthropology, which will deal with important questions concerning the life of Neanderthals, migrations after the last Ice Age, etc. Another engaging topic is so-called DNA autopsy, which is applied in cases of unclear causes of death. This year‘s topical subject is so-called cyber crime, or crime associated with new technologies and social networks, to be presented by General Yitzhak Ben Yisrael, one of the leading world authorities in the field, a key figure at the Israel Space Agency, and a former adviser to Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu. In the clinical part of the Conference, special emphasis will be placed on so-called trans-

lational medicine in general, and on new approaches to creating individual therapies for individuals based on their genome, novelties in molecular diagnostics, and cell and gene therapy in particular. Top molecular medicine experts, such as Dr. Malcolm Brenner, will discuss the latest procedures in cancer treatment, or Franklyn Prendergast who will talk about the novelties in personalised medicine, which treats patients individually according to their pharmacogenetic proﬁle. An entire section is dedicated to glycosylation (i.e., reactions in which complex carbohydrates are attached to proteins and lipids). With the future in view, the ﬁrst ISABS Conference broke with tradition in terms of organisation. As an introduction to the Conference, a practical genetics workshop was held for young scientists on the premises of the recently built School of Medicine, which instantly attracted participants from the neighbouring countries, whose number has been growing ever since. This year, the University of New Haven and Dr. Timothy Palmbach are holding a practical training workshop covering all the most important topics, ranging from hands-on experience in collecting biological

Richard Roberts (Nobelova nagrada/Nobel prize 1993), Dragan Primorac, Moses Schanﬁeld CROATIA AIRLINES

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traces and ballistics to blood stain analysis. Moreover, shoulder to shoulder with some of the top students from Croatia and the region, the best fifteen Croatian secondary school students will be given an opportunity to attend the Conference and mingle with Nobel Prize winners. Also, the best six young researches from all over the world, three from the clinical field and three from the forensics field, will receive the Young Investigator Award. A lot has changed since the original American team, but Dr. Primorac cannot forget the time when a group of top experts lent a helping hand to those in need, experts he has cooperated with ever since. His acquaintance with Mrs. Barbara Bush is particularly emotional because she helped when help was needed most, making sure that Croatian forensics took off. − A few years ago, in 2008 more precisely, when I served as Minister of Science, Education and Sports of the Republic of Croatia, I received a letter from her informing me that her son, US President George W. Bush, was coming to visit Croatia, remembers Dr. Primorac. − During our meeting, I thanked President Bush once more for everything that the USA had done for Croatia. And now, two decades later, the same American team that set DNA technology based identification procedures in motion, is arriving in Croatia together with a number of other leading world scientists, although in an entirely different capacity, sending a powerful symbolic message to the world in recognition of the Conference as one of the most important science brands of the Republic of Croatia. ■

da se sretnu i uËe od vrhunskih struËnjaka i znanstvenika. Znanstvene su prezentacije vrh suvremene znanosti, a druπtvena dogaanja tijekom tjedna omoguÊuju sudionicima da uËe i uæivaju u povijesti, kulturi i ljepotama Hrvatske i jadranske obale. Ovaj skup meni je vaæan jer mi omoguÊuje da se ponovno sastanem s kolegama iz cijeloga svijeta da u zajedniËkom nastojanju unapreujemo podruËja sudske medicine i genetike za dobrobit drugih. Prof. dr. Frederick R. Bieber, the leading Medical Geneticist, USA: − The ISABS conference is one of the top international scientific meetings on the subjects of forensic medicine, medical genetics and DNA technology. Speakers and attendees travel from all over the globe to participate in this exciting week of lectures and workshops. One part of this meeting which is especially exciting is that young physicians and students have the opportunity to meet and learn from top scholars and scientists. The scientific presentations are cutting-edge and the social events arranged during the week allow participants to learn about and enjoy the history, culture and beauty of Croatia and the Adriatic coast. This meeting is a top priority for me as it allows me to reconnect with colleagues from around the world in our efforts to improve the fields of forensic medicine and genetics for the benefit of others. Prof. Henry Lee, vodeÊi svjetski forenziËar sa sveuËiliπta New Haven: Osmi kongres forenziËke, antropoloπke i medicinske genetike, nije samo najznaËajniji znanstveni dogaaj u Europi tijekom 2013., nego i iznimno vrijedno okupljanje znanstvenika, istraæivaËa i pedagoga iz cijeloga svijeta. Na

Prof. dr. Frederick R. Bieber, vodeÊi struË-

konferenciji sudjelujem osmi puta i radujem se

njak medicinske genetike, SAD:

πto Êu na njoj sresti stare prijatelje i meusobno

− Konferencija ISABS jedan je od najznaËajnijih

dijeliti naπa nova saznanja. Takoer jedva Ëekam

meunarodnih znanstvenih skupova o temi

posjetiti krasnu hrvatsku obalu i fascinantna

forenziËke medicine, medicinske genetike i

povijesna mjesta.

DNK tehnologije. PredavaËi i sudionici dolaze iz cijelog svijeta da sudjeluju u uzbudljivom

Prof. Henry Lee, the world’s leading fo-

tjednu predavanja i radionica. Osobito je zani-

rensic scientist at the University of New

mljiva moguÊnost mladih lijeËnika i studenata

Haven: Eighth ISABS Conference on Forensic, Anthropologic and Medical Genetics and Mayo Clinic Lectures in Translational Medicine, is not only the most important scientiﬁc event in Europe during 2013, but also it is an extremely valuable gathering for scientists, investigators and educator around the world. This is going to be the 8th time I am attending a ISABS conference and I am looking forward to seeing my old friends and exchanging our experiences. I also

VodeÊi ameriËki forenziËari/ American Forensic Dream Team

can not wait to visit beautiful Croatian coast and the fascinating historical sites. CROATIA AIRLINES

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ri vrhunska shopping centra u dva najveÊa hrvatska grada s viπe od dvadeset milijuna posjetitelja na godinu; 350 najpoznatijih svjetskih i domaÊih brandova smjeπtenih na viπe od 150.000 Ëetvornih metara; neponovljiv uæitak shoppinga i za-

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bave za cijelu obitelj − sve to je City Center one. Glavni grad moæe se pohvaliti s dva City Centera one, East i West. A Split je dom najveÊeg regionalnog shopping centra − City Centera one Split. City Center one ponosi se miksom brandova koji Êe zadovoljiti sve dobne skupine i kuÊne budæete: od luksuznih i high-street do lokalnih brandova koji imaju osobit domaÊi πarm. Za one koji preferiraju svjetski poznate brandove tu je trgovina XYZ s kolekcijama kuÊa kao πto su Armani, Iceberg, Burberry, Pinko i drugi. U Peek&Cloppenburgu mogu se pronaÊi Armani Jeans, Boss, Calvin Klein, Desigual, Joop!, Tommy Hilﬁger, a Modiana u svojoj ponudi, nudi i brandove kao πto su Sisley, Marc Cain, Missoni, Mexx, Sinequanone, Lacoste, Pierre Cardin, Buggati i druge. Za sve one koji viπe naginju jeansu i casual garderobi te high street brandovima tu su Replay, Guess, H&M, Mango, Zara, OVS, s.Oliver, Bershka, C&A, New Yorker i brojni drugi. City Center one takoer nudi izvrsne drogerije i parﬁmerije te najbolji miks trgovina za djecu.

Cijela priËa City Centera one poËela je 2006. godine u zagrebaËkom naselju Jankomir kad je otvoren prvi City Center one. Vrlo brzo taj se centar nametnuo kao jedno od omiljenih odrediπta ZagrepËana i drugih posjetitelja. City Center one Split otvoren je 2009. i ubrzo je postao najveÊi regionalni shopping centar. Uspjeh s prva dva centra prenesen je i na najmlaeg Ëlana − City Center one East koji je u proljeÊe 2012. godine otvoren na istoku grada Zagreba. Uz najbolji shopping, City Center one ima i druge prednosti koje ga izdvajaju na træiπtu: brojni kaﬁÊi i restorani savrπeno su mjesto za odmor nakon shoppinga. Besplatan wireless Internet mnogi posjetitelji rabe kako bi surfali svojim omiljenim web stranicama. Centri na istoku Zagreba i u Splitu nude vrhunski kinodoæivljaj u Cineplexx kinu. A za one sklone igrama na sreÊu na raspolaganju je Wettpunkt automat klub u City Centeru one East. Za sve željne adrenalina centri na istoku Zagreba i u Splitu pružaju velike Karting arene koje su pravi hit! Posjetiteljima su na raspolaganju frizerski saloni te usluge manikiranja, koje uvelike koriste pripadnice njeænijeg spola. U sva tri centra nalazi se besplatna djeËja igraonica Kid’s Jungle, koja nudi vrhunsku zabavu za djecu od 3 do 12 godina i svakodnevne radionice pod vodstvom educiranog osoblja. Za mame i bebe tu je Baby room, koji je najsuvremenije opremljen, a obitelji rado koriste Obiteljski parking. City Center one najbolje je shopping odredište u Hrvatskoj, što su dokazale i nagrade Qudal, Best Buy Award i Superbrands, koje je Centar osvojio više puta. Priuštite si i vi nezaboravno shopping iskustvo u City Centeru one.

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hree superior quality shopping centres in two largest Croatian cities with over 20 million visitors annually, 350 of the most renowned global and Croatian brands spread over 150,000 square metres, and an unforgettable shopping and entertainment experience for the whole family − all of this is City Center one. Croatia’s capital boasts two City Center one shopping centres − East and West, while Split is the home of the largest regional shopping centre − City Center one Split. City Center one is proud of the mix of brands it offers, making sure they meet all age groups requirements and home budgets − from luxury and high-street brands to charming local brands. For those who prefer globally renowned brands, the XYZ shop features the biggest names in the fashion industry, such as Armani, Iceberg, Burberry, Pinko, etc. Peek&Cloppenburg sells the latest collections of brands, including Armani Jeans, Boss, Calvin Klein, Desigual, Joop!, Tommy Hilﬁger, while Modiana offers, amongst other brands, Sisley, Marc Cain, Missoni, Mex x, Sinequanone, Lacoste, Pierre Cardin, Bugatti and others. Those who are more into jeans, casual clothing and high-street brands are sure to ﬁnd something in branded shops, such as Replay, Guess, H&M, Mango, Zara, OVS, New Yorker and

many others. City Center one also offers an excellent choice of chemists and perfumeries, such as Müller and dm, and the best mix of shops for children. The City Center one story started in Zagreb’s neighbourhood of Jankomir in 2006, when the ﬁ rst City Center one shopping centre opened. It quickly established itself as a favorite shopping destination for the people of Zagreb and other visitors. City Center one Split opened in 2009 and soon became the largest regional shopping center. The success of the ﬁrst two centres was transferred onto the youngest one − City Center one East, which opened in spring 2012 in the eastern part of Zagreb. In addition to offering the best shopping experience, City Center one has other advantages which set it apart from the other centres on the market: numerous cafés and restaurants are a perfect place to rest after shopping. Many shoppers use the free wireless Internet to surf their favourite web pages. The Centers in the east of Zagreb and in Split offer superb cinema experience in Cineplexx cinemas and for those who like games of chance, City Center one East houses the Wettpunkt Automat Club. Those who seek adventure can increase their adrenaline level at the centers in Zagreb East and Split offering large Carting Arenas, an

instant big hit! Hairdressing and manicurist services are also available and quite popular amongst ladies. All three centres have free children’s playrooms called Kid’s Jungle, offering great entertainment to children aged 3 to 12, and daily creative workshops run by educated staff. Moms and babies can use the Baby Room ﬁ tted with modern equipment, and families with children have free family parking. City Center one is the best shopping destination in Croatia, recognised and conﬁrmed by the Qudal, Superbrands and Best Buy Award that City Center one won several times. Treat yourself to an unforgettable shopping experience at City Center one!

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112 − jedinstveni europski broj za sve hitne sluæbe u Republici Hrvatskoj na usluzi turistima i graanima 112 − Single European Emergency Call Number in the Republic of Croatia at the Service of Croatian Citizens and Visitors

ruæiti sigurnost graanima naπe zemlje kao i svim njezinim gostima jedna je od vodeÊih zadaÊa Dræavne uprave za zaπtitu i spaπavanje, kao samostalne, strukovne i upravne organizacije u Republici Hrvatskoj, koja, primjereno potrebama suvremenog druπtva, priprema, planira i rukovodi operativnim snagama te koordinira djelovanje svih sudionika zaπtite i spaπavanja. Tu zadaÊu zacijelo operativno olakπava i uvoenje broja 112, kao jedinstvenoga europskog broja za sve hitne sluæbe, koji je utvren Odlukom VijeÊa europskih zajednica od 29. srpnja 1991., uz obvezu svim Ëlanicama Europske unije da ga implementiraju do kraja 1996. godine. Republika Hrvatska, iako nije imala tu obvezu, zbog zaπtite æivota i zdravlja turista i graana te zaπtite materijalnih dobara i okoliπa, broj 112, sukladno propisanim standardima, uvela je u poËetku 2005. godine.

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Besplatnim pozivom na broj 112 s bilo koje javne telefonske govornice, ﬁksnoga ili mobilnoga telefonskog aparata moæe se zatraæiti pomoÊ policije, vatrogasaca, hitne medicinske pomoÊi, sluæbe traganja i spaπavanja na moru ili gorske sluæbe spaπavanja. Sustav pruæanja pomoÊi u svim hitnim situacijama moæe locirati pozivatelja broja 112 te organizirati hitni prijevoz zrakom ozlijeene osobe, organa za transplantaciju, timova za traganje i spaπavanje ili vatrogasaca. Turistima je osobito bitno da ne moraju znati ni pozivati razliËite brojeve hitnih sluæbi u zemlji gdje borave. Dovoljan je jedan poziv na broj 112, a operateri æupanijskih centara 112 mogu paralelno alarmirati nekoliko sluæbi potrebnih u hitnom sluËaju. Vaæno je i istaknuti da strani gost, u sluËaju potrebe, hitni sluËaj na broj 112 moæe dojaviti na nekoliko stranih jezika (engleski, njemaËki, talijanski, maarski, slovaËki i Ëeπki), πto uvelike olakπava komunikaciju te skraÊuje dragocjeno vrijeme potrebno za pruæanje pomoÊi. Republika Hrvatska, zajedno s nekoliko europskih zemalja, aktivno sudjeluje u realizaciji tehniËkog rjeπenja za automatsko generiranje i prihvat hitnog poziva iz vozila (e-call) centru 112 nakon prometne nesreÊe, πto Êe buduÊim motoriziranim turistima dodatno pruæiti sigurnost visokih europskih standarda. Svim posjetiteljima naπe zemlje æelimo ugodan boravak i opuπtajuÊi odmor, a u sluËaju bilo kakve nezgode, tu je za vas broj 112. Dræavna uprava za zaπtitu i spaπavanje

o provide for the safety of Croatian citizens and visitors is one of the key roles of the National Protection and Rescue Directorate. It is an independent, professional and

administrative organization in the Republic of Croatia tasked with preparing, planning and managing all the operational forces, as well as coordinating all the participants in the protection and rescue system. This task has been significantly facilitated with the introduction of the single European emergency call number 112, which was established by the Council Decision of 29 July 1991 and which required the Member States to introduce the number by the end of 1996. Although not bound by this Decision, in order to save lives and the welfare of its citizens and visitors, as well as to protect property and the environment, the Republic of Croatia introduced the 112 number in accordance with the standardized procedures in early 2005. By making a free 112 call from any telephone booth, or any fixed or mobile telephone, you can ask for assistance from the relevant emergency services: Police, Fire Department, Emergency Medical Service, Maritime Search and Rescue and Mountain Rescue Service. The emergency assistance system is able to locate the 112 caller and provide emergency medical air transportation, including the transport of body organs for transplantation, search and rescue teams and firefighters. Furthermore, foreign visitors are not expected to know any other existing emergency call numbers in the country they are visiting. A 112 call is all it takes to reach the 112 county operators who are able to simultaneously alert all the relevant emergency services. In addition, the emergency call can be made in several languages (English, German, Italian, Hungarian, Slovak and Czech) which facilitates communication and cuts down on precious emergency response time. Together with several other countries, the Republic of Croatia has participated in the implementation of a technical solution with eCall-equipped cars that generate calls to the nearest emergency center in case of an accident, which will undoubtedly enhance the high European standards for the safety of visitors traveling by car. We wish you a pleasant stay and a relaxing vacation in our country. Should you need any help in an emergency please dial 112 − it is here for you. National Protection and Rescue Directorate

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WHO ID[ H PDLO LQIR#DLUSRUW GXEURYQLN KU ZZZ DLUSRUW GXEURYQLN KU

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■ POZNATI U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU CELEBRITIES IN OUR AIRCRAFT Iako Hrvatska 1. srpnja formalno postaje Ëlanica Europske unije,

Piše/By Anika Rešetar Drvar

mnogi hrvatski znanstvenici i umjetnici prisutni su svojim radom u zemljama Europske unije i svijeta. Jedan je od njih i glazbenik Zlatan StipiπiÊ Gibonni, Ëiji je album Mirakul najprodavaniji CD svih vremena u Hrvatskoj. Although Croatia is going to become a member of the European Union only on 1 July this year, many Croatian scientists and artists are already present with their work in EU countries and the world. One of them is the musician Zlatan StipiπiÊ Gibonni whose album Mirakul is the best sold CD in Croatia of all times.

avnost je nedavno bila iznenaena vijeπÊu da je Gibonni objavio album na engleskom jeziku pod nazivom 20th Century Man, na kojemu surauje s pet hrvatskih i petnaest britanskih glazbenika. Album je producirao poznati producent Andy Wright, koji je bio producent grupa Simply Red, Simple Minds, Eurythmics, Toma Jonesa i drugih. Do odrediπta na kojima radi, snima i nastupa, Gibonnija Ëesto nose zrakoplovi Croatia Airlinesa… Snimali ste album u Londonu u poznatim studijima Sphere i Abbey Road s vrlo traæenim producentom. Kako ste poËeli suraivati s inozemnim glazbenicima? − To veÊ dugo traje. Joπ potkraj osamdesetih slao sam svoje snimke u svijet. Znate kako je 132

u svim poËecima, ti piπeπ, a oni ne odgovaraju. A onda me ipak nazvao berlinski band V2 jer ostali su bez pjevaËa, a svidio im se moj glas. Gotovo dvije godine svirao sam s njima. Æivio sam u Berlinu na Walter-Scheiber-Platzu, joπ prije pada berlinskog Zida. Bio bih ondje po πest, sedam mjeseci i onda bih dolazio kuÊi. I krenulo je dobro, ali onda se kod nas zaratilo. Obitelj mi je bila u Hrvatskoj. Nisam mogao ostati. Vratio sam se. Ali uvijek sam Ëuvao te kontakte. Zaπto su Vam ti inozemni kontakti bili zanimljivi? − Htio sam spoznati svoje limite. Ovdje sam doæivljavao uspjeh, ali oduvijek sam htio znati gdje mi je mjesto u najjaËim ligama - ako to pogledamo na sportski naËin. Ja sam poput samuraja koji voli uËiti od boljega i iskusnijega. Tko Vas je usporedio s Peterom Gabrielom? − Bio je to basist Petera Gabriela, Tony Levin. Bilo je to tijekom koncerta u Opatiji kad mi je bio gost-glazbenik. A kako je poËela suradnja sa Stingovim bubnjarom Manuom Katcheom? − Dogovorili smo susret kad je Sting imao koncert u pulskoj Areni. Sreli smo se na recepciji hotela Histria, zamolio sam ga da posluπa moju glazbu i vidi bismo li mogli suraivati. Sjeli smo u auto i nakon jedne i pol stvari rekao mi je da Êe sudjelovati. SliËno je bilo i s basistom Pinom Palladinom, koji sada svira u grupi WHO, a prije je nastupao s Ericom Claptonom. To su osobiti ljudi i kompliment mi je da im je bio izazov upustiti se u suradnju sa mnom. Osim u Hrvatskoj, veoma ste popularni i u Sloveniji. Nedavno sam proËitala da

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Slovenci puπtaju Vaπu glazbu kad æele pustiti osjeÊaje! − Ma isto je i sa mnom. Dio sam juænjaËke kulture, macho odgoja. Mi Mediteranci kao da neπto riskiramo kad govorimo o svojim slabostima i osjeÊajima, pa se najlakπe ispovijedamo kroz pjesmu. Tekstovi su Vaπih pjesama poput poezije. Pa kako je onda moguÊe da ih piπete na engleskom jeziku? − Na engleskom sam jeziku poËeo pisati joπ 1988. godine. Kad piπeπ na jeziku koji nije materinski, to je kao da si isti Ëovjek, ali u tebi je joπ jedna zakljuËana soba. Pa onda ueπ u tu sobu i neπto se dodatno oslobodi. Vaæna je ta melodija jezika, ona povuËe, daje teme, daje slike. Pa i Kundera je imao rezervni materinski jezik, uz Ëeπki, to je bio francuski. InaËe piπem na dalmatinskom i to sve zvuËi normalno, ali kad se prevede na standardni hrvatski jezik, moæe zvuËati patetiËno. Meni je to bio baπ izazov, htio sam biti svoj i vidjeti mogu li biti jednako dobar i na drugom jeziku. Uvelike su me bodrili moji prijatelji iz London Community Gospel Choira. Davali su mi komplimente, vjerovali u mene. Prvih nekoliko puta pomislio sam da je to bonton. Poslije sam im povjerovao. Održali ste koncert s Mickom Hucknallom iz Simply Reda u Maarskoj i »eπkoj. ©to slijedi? − Album The 20th Century Man tiskat Êe se u Austriji, Maarskoj, »eπkoj, NjemaËkoj, ©vicarskoj, Sloveniji, Rumunjskoj i Bugarskoj. Kako je to svirati pred publikom koja Vaπ rad joπ ne poznaje? − Glazbenik sam koji dolazi iz male zemlje i male ekonomije. Moj se koncert u tehnoloπkom smislu ne moæe mjeriti sa spektaklima najveÊih svjetskih zvijezda, ali ja na svakom koncertu mogu dati sve od sebe. Bez kalkulacija uÊi u koncert kao da mi je zadnji u æivotu. A to su veÊ stvari koje ne moæeπ kupiti u trgovini i ljudi tu energiju i entuzijazam prepoznaju. »esto putujete i Ëesto letite? Kako Vam je letjeti Croatia Airlinesom? − Na nekim linijama tako sam Ëesto da se i osobno poznajem s vaπim osobljem. A i s nekim putnicima, ha, ha... Tako da vlada obiteljska atmosfera. n

he public has recently been surprised to hear that Gibonni released an album in English, entitled The 20th Century Man, on which he worked together with ﬁve Croatian and ﬁfteen British musicians. The album was produced by the renowned producer Andy Wright who has worked with Simply Red, Simple Minds, Eurythmics, Tom Jones and others. When travelling to the destinations 134

where he works, does his recording and has concerts, Gibonni often ﬂ ies Croatia Airlines… You recorded this album in London, in the renowned studios of Sphere and Abbey Road and with a much desired producer. How did you start cooperating with foreign musicians? − This has been going on for a long time. As early as the end of the eighties, I used to send my recordings all around the world. You know how it is when you just start doing something − you write to them, and they don’t reply. But then the V2 band from Berlin contacted me because they were without a singer and they liked my voice. I played with them for almost two years. I lived in Berlin, at Walter-ScheiberPlatz, even before the fall of the Berlin Wall. I would stay there for six or seven months and then return home. Things were developing well, but then the war started in our country. My family was in Croatia. I couldn’t stay abroad. So I returned home. But, I kept the contacts that I had. Why were those foreign contacts of interest to you? − I wanted to test my limits. I was successful in Croatia, but always wanted to see where my place was in the strongest leagues − to use sports terminology. I am like a samurai who likes learning from better and more experienced ones. Who compared you with Peter Gabriel? − That was Peter Gabriel’s bass player, Tony Levin. He said that during a concert in Opatija where he was my guest musician. And how did your cooperation with Sting’s drummer, Manu Katche, start? − We arranged a meeting when Sting had a concert in Pula’s Arena. We met at the reception of Hotel Histria and I asked him to listen to my music and see whether we could collaborate. We sat in the car and after one and a half songs he said that he would play with me. It was similar with the bass player Pino Palladino, who now plays in the band The Who, while before that he played with Eric Clapton. They are exceptional people and I take it as a compliment that they view our collaboration as a challenge. Apart from Croatia, you are also very popular in Slovenia. I have recently read that Slovenians listen to your music when they want to release their feelings! − Well, that is true for me, too. I am part of the Dalmatian culture; with a macho upbringing. We, people of the Mediterranean region, feel as if we are at risk if we talk about our weaknesses and feelings, so the easiest way to confess them is through songs.

Your lyrics are like poetry. How is it then possible for you to write them in English? − I started writing in English as early as 1988. When you write in a language which is not your mother tongue, it feels as if you are the same person but there is a locked-up room inside you. Then you enter the room and something else is released. The melody of a language is important − it pulls you, provides the themes and creates the images. Kundera also had a reserve mother tongue, in addition to Czech, and that was French. Normally, I write in the Dalmatian dialect and the lyrics sound good, but when translated into the standard Croatian language they can sound pathetic. I thought of that as a challenge, I wanted to be myself and see whether I could be equally good in another language. I was strongly encouraged to do that by my friends from the London Community Gospel Choir. They gave me compliments; they had trust in me. The first few times I thought they were just being polite, but later on I started believing them. You just had a concert with Mick Hucknall from Simply Red in Hungary and the Czech Republic. What comes next? − The album The 20th Century Man will be released in Austria, Hungary, the Czech Republic, Germany, Switzerland, Slovenia, Romania and Bulgaria. How is it when you play for an audience that is not yet familiar with your work? − I am a musician who comes from a small country and small economy. When it comes to technology, my concerts do not compare with the spectacular concerts put on by the greatest stars in the world, but I give my best at all my concerts. I do not calculate. I approach each concert as if it is the last one in my life. These are things you cannot buy in a shop and people recognise such energy and enthusiasm. You travel a lot and you fly a lot? How is it flying Croatia Airlines? − I fly certain routes so often that I have gotten acquainted with your staff. And some passengers, too, ha, ha.... It’s quite family-like. n

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LIPANJ/JUNE Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 24.-26.6.2013., Zagreb INMUSIC FESTIVAL 2013. Ljeto Êe se nastaviti u æestokom ritmu. Ne samo zbog visokih temperatura, nego i istinskog rocka koji u Hrvatsku dovode organizatori INmusic festivala./This summer will sizzle with high temperatures and genuine rock rhythms which the organizers of the INmusic Festival promise to bring to Croatia. www.inmusicfestival.com 29.6.-10.7., Zagreb − Ludbreg − Umag − Vukovar 1. SVJETSKE UMJETNI»KE IGRE (WAG)/1st WORLD ART GAMES (WAG) Po uzoru na meunarodnu olimpijsku organizaciju uspostavljena je prva organizacija u svijetu pod nazivom Svjetske umjetniËke igre, kojoj je glavni cilj meusobno povezati i umreæiti umjetnike iz svih krajeva svijeta./The ﬁ rst of its kind in the world, an organization named World Art Games has been modelled after the International Olympic Organization. Its main objective is to create links and networks for artists from all over the world. www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr 21.-23.6., –urevac PICOKIJADA Legenda o Picokima jedna je od najzanimljivijih legendi u hrvatskoj povijesti. Govori o hrabrosti i domiπljatosti –urevËana koji Ëak i u bespomoÊnoj situaciji dugotrajne opsade uspijevaju pronaÊi naËin kako da se oslobode turske vojske. Jedinstvenom scenskom predstavom na otvorenom –urevËani potkraj lipnja slave originalnu pobjedu nad turskom vojskom./ The legend of Picoki is one of the most intriguing legends from Croatia’s past. It tells a story of the courage and resourcefulness of the citizens of –urevac who managed to ﬁnd a way out and get rid of the Turkish army after a long siege in a seemingly hopeless situation. A unique outdoor re-enactment is staged by the locals of –urevac in late June to commemorate this original victory over the Turkish army. www.tz-djurdjevac.hr

25.6.-4.8., Marija Bistrica LJETO U MARIJI BISTRICI/ SUMMER IN MARIJA BISTRICA Manifestacija nudi razliËite kulturne, duhovne, sportske i ostale zabavne sadræaje tijekom ljeta s naglaskom na proslavi 13. srpnja, blagdana Majke Boæje BistriËke, Dana OpÊine i Æupe Marija Bistrica./The event offers a host of cultural, spiritual, sports and other forms of entertainment during the entire summer. The festivities will peak on July 13th, the Feast of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Bistrica, the Day of the Municipality and Marija Bistrica Parish. www.info-marija-bistrica.hr 26.6., »igoÊ DAN EUROPSKOG SELA RODA/ THE DAY OF THE EUROPEAN STORK VILLAGE U »igoÊu æivi oko 120 mjeπtana i joπ dvjestotinjak roda. S obzirom na njihov skladan suæivot, »igoÊ je proglaπen prvim europskim selom roda, te je stoga organizirana manifestacija u sklopu koje posjetitelji mogu otiÊi u obilazak Lonjskoga polja ili uæivati u gastronomskoj ponudi. Suæivite se i vi sa selom koje su rode odabrale da im bude dom./»igoÊ is home to some 120 human inhabitants and some 200 storks that live in perfect harmony. Therefore, »igoÊ has been declared the ﬁrst European Stork Village, a cause for an annual event during which visitors can take a tour of the Lonjsko Polje wetlands or indulge in local delicacies. Get into the spirit of life in this village that storks have chosen as their home. www.pp-lonjsko-polje.hr 28.-30.6., Koprivnica PODRAVSKI MOTIVI/ PODRAVINA MOTIFS Podravski motivi jedna su od najveÊih kulturnih manifestacija ovog dijela Europe, u kojoj se proæimlju veoma atraktivni i osobiti sadræaji: sajam naivne umjetnosti - najveÊi sajam naive na svijetu, sajam starih obrta, folklor, sajam antikviteta i gastronomska ponuda podravskog kraja./ Podravina Motifs is one of the biggest cultural events in this part of Europe. It combines exceptionally attractive and special features: a naïve art fair − the biggest in the world, an old crafts fair, folklore, an antique fair and the gastronomic delicacies of Podravina. www.koprivnicatourism.com

* Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara This schedule is valid on Jun 5th. Allow for change after this date.

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Karlovac i okolica/Karlovac and surroundings 22.6.-8.9., Karlovac KARLSTADT FESTIVAL Festival sjedinjuje sva kulturna dogaanja u gradu. Na dan grada, 13. srpnja, bit Êe najsveËanije i oËekuje vas niz dogaanja./The festival unites all the cultural happenings in town. The events will peak on July 13th, the Day of the City, when you can look forward to a host of pleasant surprises. www.karlovac-touristinfo.hr Osijek i okolica/Osijek and surroundings 29.6.-21.7., Osijek OSJE»KO LJETO KULTURE/ A SUMMER OF CULTURE IN OSIJEK OsjeËka Tvra, nekoÊ pozornica burnih povijesnih dogaanja, pretvara se u pozornicu vrhunskih umjetniËkih programa./Osijek’s Tvra, a one-time stage of stormy events, becomes a stage for excellent art programmes. www.kultura-osijek.com Pula i okolica/Pula and surroundings lipanj − rujan/June − September GLAZBENO LJETO U GROÆNJANU/A SUMMER OF MUSIC IN GROÆNJAN Organizirani pod pokroviteljstvom groænjanske Meunarodne glazbene πkole, na malim gradskim trgovima i u crkvama odræavaju se koncerti. Glazbeni stilovi su najrazliËitiji - od jazza do komorne glazbe./Concerts in dainty squares and churches will be organized under the auspices of the International Music School. There will be various musical styles on offer, ranging from jazz to chamber music. www.tz-groznjan.hr Zadar i okolica/Zadar and surroundings 28.6.-2.8., Zadar ZADARSKO KAZALI©NO LJETO/ A SUMMER OF THEATRE IN ZADAR Posjetitelji mogu uæivati u kazaliπnim predstavama, plesnim koreograﬁjama i vrhunskim izvedbama hrvatskih i inozemnih glazbenika./Visitors can enjoy theatre shows, dance choreog-

raphies and superb performances by musician from Croatia and abroad. www.hnk-zadar.hr Split i okolica/Split and surroundings 28.-29.6., Veliko Grablje, Otok Hvar FESTIVAL LAVANDE/LAVENDER FESTIVAL Moæete uæivati u ponudi najraznovrsnijih proizvoda od lavande, prezentaciji tradicionalnog destiliranja lavande, domaÊoj hrani, izloæbama, radionicama, koncertima i mnogim drugim dogaanjima./This festival offers lavender products, presentations featuring the traditional lavender distillation process, local food, exhibitions, workshops, concerts and a host of other lavender-related events. www.pjover.com SRPANJ/JULY Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 7.7.-21.7.2013., Zagreb 47. ME–UNARODNA SMOTRA FOLKLORA/47th INTERNATIONAL FOLKLORE FESTIVAL Ovogodiπnja smotra posveÊena je ulasku Hrvatske u Europsku uniju i stoga njezin naslov glasi: Hrvatska u Europi − Europa u Hr vatskoj. Srediπnja tema smotre upozorit Êe na europsku glazbenu i plesnu baπtinu koja je zajedniËka mnogim europskim narodima i kulturama./This year’s folklore festival is dedicated to Croatia’s accession to the European Union, hence the title: Croatia in Europe − Europe in Croatia. The central theme of the event will draw the audience’s attention to European musical and dance heritage, which is shared by many European nations and cultures. www.msf.hr 31.7. IRON MAIDEN U ZAGREBU/ IRON MAIDEN IN ZAGREB Atmosferu na koncertu Irona Maidena, koji Êe se odræati u Areni Zagreb, dodatno Êe zagrijati dva velika imena heavy metala - Voodoo Six i

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Anthrax./The atmosphere at the Iron Maiden concert at Arena Zagreb will be additionally heated by two great heavy metal acts: Voodoo Six and Anthrax. www.muzika.hr GospiÊ i oklica/GospiÊ and surroundings 27.7., OtoËac EKO-ETNO GACKA Manifestacija okuplja izlagaËe liËkih autohtonih proizvoda. Upotpunjena je natjecanjima u kuhanju, igraonicom za djecu, nastupom kulturno-umjetniËkih udruga i nastupom glazbeno zabavnih grupa. Svake godine sudjeluje i meunarodni volonterski kamp koji organizira edukativne radionice i zabavu za djecu./The event gathers the manufacturers of original handicraft from Like. It is enhanced by a cooking competition, children’s play groups, performances by culture and arts associations and pop groups. Volunteers from an international camp take part every year by organizing workshops and entertainment for children. www.tz-otocac.hr Pula i okolica/Pula and surroundings 5.7., Rovinj VE»ERI RIBARSKE TRADICIJE/ EVENINGS OF FISHERMEN’S TRADITIONS Manifestacijom se, osim nekadaπnjih obiËaja, slavi i gradnja batane, a oko prizora njezina porinuÊa okuplja se cijeli grad u luci. PosvjedoËite i sami oæivljavanju tradicije ljudi toga prekrasnoga istarskoga grada./ The event celebrates old customs, including the construction of the Batana boat. The entire town of Rovinj gathers along the harbour to observe the boat being launched into the sea. Come and bear witness to traditions being revived in this beautiful Istrian town. www.najboljeuhrvatskoj.info 13.-27.7., Pula 60. FESTIVAL IGRANOG FILMA/ 60 th FILM FESTIVAL Festival igranog filma u Puli ubraja se u svjetski atraktivne fi lmske festivale na otvorenome. Rijetko se koji svjetski festival moæe pohvaliti ambijentom koji pruæa projekcija filmova u povijesnim prostorima Kaπtela i antiËke Arene./The Pula Film Festival has gained international fame as an attractive open air film festival. There are very few festivals in the world which offer its spectators the privilege of film projections in the extraordinary historical settings of Kaπtel and the ancient amphitheatre, the popular Arena. www.pulafilmfestival.hr 138

18.-28.7., Umag 24. ATP VEGETA CROATIA OPEN UMAG/24th ATP VEGETA CROATIA OPEN UMAG Ljetni ATP turnir koji se u Umagu odræava viπe od 20 godina, vrhunac je turistiËke sezone u sjeverozapadnoj Istri i jedan od najvaænijih sportskih i druπtvenih dogaaja u Hrvatskoj. U gradu tih dana borave tenisaËi svjetskog ranga i ljubitelji bijelog sporta./The summer ATP tournament, which has been taking place in Umag for over 20 years, marks the peak of ever y tourist season in north-western Istria. It is also one of the most important sporting and social events in Croatia. On those days, the town is home to world class tennis professionals and white sport aficionados. www.tenistra.com 19.-22.7., SvetvinËenat 14. FESTIVAL PLESA I NEVERBALNOG KAZALI©TA/ 14th FESTIVAL OF DANCE AND NON-VERBAL THEATRE Jedinstveno i omiljeno okupljaliπte plesnih struËnjaka i ljubitelja plesne umjetnosti, koji prate festivalski meunarodni program sastavljen od suvremenog plesa, uliËnog teatra, radonica itd./This is a unique and well-loved gathering spot for dance experts and dance art aficionados who follow the international festival programme featuring modern dance, street theatre, workshops, etc. www.svetvincenatfestival.com 27.7.-31.7., Motovun MOTOVUN FILM FESTIVA/ MOTOVUN FILM FESTIVAL Na festivalu moæete pogledati izbor filmova iz aktualne svjetske produkcije, neovisno o æanrovskom usmjerenju./ The festival is an opportunity to see a selection of recently produced films, irrespective of genre. www.motovunfilmfestival.com Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 5.-6.7., Novi Vinodolski ME–UNARODNI LJETNI KARNEVAL/INTERNATIONAL SUMMER CARNIVAL Novi Vinodolski svoja gradska vrata otvara maπkarama i privremeno prepuπta vlast Ljetnom kanevalu./ Novi Vinodolski opens its doors to masked characters and temporarily hands power over to the summer carnival. www.tz-novi-vinodolski.hr 5.-7.7., Opatija LIBURNIA JAZZ FESTIVAL/ LIBURNIA JAZZ FESTIVAL Festival se odræava od 2001. godine, a postao je najveÊi jazz festival u Hrvatskoj i regiji zbog broja koncerata koji se odræavaju, broja posjetitelja koji se svake godine vjerno vraÊaju, te

novih oboæavatelja jazza./Since 2001, the festival has become the biggest Croatian and regional jazz festival owing to the number of concerts, returnee visitors and new jazz lovers it attracts. www.liburniajazz.hr 19.7.-25.8., Osor 38. OSORSKE GLAZBENE VE»ERI/38th EVENINGS OF MUSIC IN OSOR Festival klasiËne glazbe odræava se u Osoru od 1976. g. Koncerti se prireuju u osorskoj katedrali, a izvode se djela hrvatskih skladatelja./A festival of classical music has been held in Osor since 1976. Concerts of music by Croatian composers are held in the Osor cathedral. www.osorskeveceri.hr 25.-27.7., Rab RABSKA FJERA Grad se pretvara u veliku pozornicu i priprema veliko slavlje posjetiteljima. U slikovitim povijesnim kostimima Rabljani gostima pokazuju svoje tradicionalne, umjetniËke i obrtniËke radove. Viteπki turnir je zavrπetak Rabske fjere./The town is turned into a big stage where a great extravaganza is prepared for visitors. Wearing colourful historical costumes, the locals of Rab show their guests their traditional art and handicraf ts. The knights’ tournament represents the ﬁnale of Rabska Fjera. www.tzg-rab.hr Zadar i okolica/Zadar and surroundings 1.7.-31.8., Preko, Ugljan, Kali, Kukljica KULTURNO LJETO OTOKA UGLJANA/A SUMMER OF CULTURE ON THE ISLAND OF UGLJAN IÆelite li upoznati otok Ugljan i njegovu kulturu te aktivno provesti svoj odmor, sudjelujte u mnogim zanimljivim dogaanjima./f you wish to get to know the island of Ugljan and its culture, while having an active holiday, participate in the many interesting events. www.ugljan.hr 3.-10.7., Tisno, otok/Island Murter GARDEN FESTIVAL Tisno Êe i ove godine tijekom Festivala postati mediteranski centar klupske glazbene scene uz dolazak izvoaËa i gostiju iz cijeloga svijeta./During this year’s festival, Tisno will again become the Mediterranean clubbing centre with entertainers and guests coming from all over the world. www.thegardenfestival.eu 5.7.-15.8., Zadar GLAZBENE VE»ERI U SV.DONATU/MUSIC EVENINGS AT ST. DONATUS Tijekom toga meunarodnoga glazbenog festivala koji se odræava u crkvi sv. Donata, najprepoznatljivijem za-

darskom spomeniku kulture, prepustite se koncertima srednjovjekovne, renesansne i glazbe ranog baroka./ During the international music festival held at the church of St. Donatus, Zadar’s trademark cultural monument, let yourself be carried away at concerts of medieval, renaissance and early baroque music. www.donat-festival.com ©ibenik i okolica/©ibenik and surroundings 29.-30.7., Vodice JAZZ FESTIVAL Na festivalu nastupaju eminentni hrvatski i strani jazz-glazbenici. Zbog stilskih raznolikosti i potvrenog statusa izvoaËa vodiËki festival privlaËi sve viπe ljubitelja jazza./Prominent Croatian and foreign jazz musicians perform at the festival. A variety of styles and the performer’s reputation are the reasons why the Vodice festival attracts growing numbers of jazz lovers. www.vodice.hr Split i okolica/Split and surroundings 1.7.-28.8. OMI©KO KULTURNO LJETO/ A SUMMER OF CULTURE IN OMI© Omiπ svojim gostima tijekom ljeta nudi πiroki spektar zanimljivih dogaanja, a najpoznatiji je meu njima Festival dalmatinskih klapa./Omiπ offers its summer guests a wide range of interesting events, including the most popular one, the Festival of Dalmatian klapa singing. www.tz-omis.hr 1.7.-31.8., Kaπtela KA©TELANSKO KULTURNOZABAVNO LJETO/A SUMMER OF CULTURE AND ENTERTAINMENT IN KA©TELA U dvorcu Vitturi cijelo ljeto odræavaju se koncerti klasiËne glazbe i izloæbe. Zaljubljenici u tradicionalnu dalmatinsku kulturu svoje Êe mjesto naÊi i u starogradskim jezgrama i na feπtama, a na VeËerima dalmatinske pisme uæivat Êe u klapskoj pjesmi./Concerts of classical music and exhibitions take place in Vitturi Castle. Aﬁcionados of the traditional Dalmatian culture will come unto their own in old towns and at fetes while they enjoy klapa singing during the Evenings of Dalmatian Songs. www.kaπtela-info.hr 4.-28.7., Omiπ FESTIVAL DALMATINSKIH KLAPA/FESTIVAL OF DALMATIAN KLAPA SINGING Klapska pjesma posljednjih je godina doæivjela pravu renesansu. Omiπki festival okuplja ponajbolje klapske skupine kako bi oËuvale i promica-

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le dalmatinske napjeve, ali i kako bi ih osuvremenile./Over the past few years, klapa singing has gone through a renaissance. The Omiπ festival gathers the best klapa singing groups whose goal is to preserve and promote Dalmatian singing as well as modernize it. www.fdk.hr 14.7.-14.8. SPLITSKO LJETO/ SPLIT SUMMER Splitsko ljeto svojim posjetiteljima nudi operne, dramske i baletne predstave te izloæbe, a posljednjih godina i jazzkoncerte, ﬁlmske projekcije te uliËno kazaliπte i performanse. Idealan je to izbor za sve one koji uæivaju u moru i vrhunskoj umjetnosti./The Split Summer Festival offers its visitors operas, theatre plays, ballet performances and exhibitions, and as of lately, also jazz concerts, ﬁlm projections and street theatre and performances. This is the ideal choice for all those who wish to combine seaside pleasures and top art. www.splitsko-ljeto.hr 14.−21.7., Sutivan, otok/Island BraË VANKA REGULE Vanka Regule ili outdoor adventure spor t&film festival poznat je po sportskim disciplinama kao πto su Stand Up Paddling, Windsurfing 4x challenge, Dual sailing race, Porathlon te Final Impact Ocean Kayak

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Race. Svaku veËer moæete uæivati u Adventure ﬁ lm festivalu i odliËnim koncertima./Vanka Regule or outdoor adventure sport&ﬁ lm festival is known for sports disciplines such as Stand Up Paddling, the Windsurfing 4x Challenge, the Dual Sailing Race, Porathlon and the Final Impact Ocean Kayak Race. The events of the day spill over into the evenings with the Adventure Film Festival and excellent concerts. www.hrsport.net Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings 10.7.-25.8. 64. DUBROVA»KE LJETNE IGRE/64th DUBROVNIK SUMMER FESTIVAL Uæivajte u vrhunskim dramskim izvedbama i najljepπim djelima klasiËne glazbe, ugodno smjeπteni meu drevnim gradskim zidinama./Enjoy exquisite theatre plays and the most beautiful pieces of classical music as you sit comfortably surrounded by the ancient city walls. www.dubrovnik-festival.hr 2.7.-8.9., Cavtat CAVTATSKO LJETO/CAVTAT SUMMER Posjetite li Cavtat, moæete uæivati u koncertima klasiËne ili jazz-glazbe, na-

stupima folklornih skupina...Zavrπnica pripada susretu klapa, koji prvog vikenda u rujnu okupi dubrovaËke i ponajbolje klape iz drugih dijelova Hrvatske. Sve priredbe odræavaju se na cavtatskim ljetnim pozornicama i besplatne su./If you visit Cavtat this summer, you can enjoy concerts of classical or jazz music, and folklore shows. The grand ﬁnale will be the concert of klapa male vocal groups during the ﬁrst weekend of September when the best klapa singers will come from Dubrovnik and all over Croatia. All the programmes take place on summer stages and they are free of charge. www.tzcavtat-konavle.hr KOLOVOZ/AUGUST Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 13.8. ROBBIE WILLIAMS U ZAGREBU/ ROBBIE WILLIAMS IN ZAGREB Robbie Williams, velika pop-zvijezda danaπnjice, u sklopu turneje Take The Crown nastupit Êe na stadionu Maksimir./Robbie Williams, one of the world’s biggest pop stars, will perform at Maksimir Stadium as part of his Take the Crown Tour. www.sveulaznice.com

23.8.-1.9., Varaædin ©PANCIRFEST- FESTIVAL DOBRIH EMOCIJA/ ©PANCIRFEST- A FESTIVAL OF GOOD EMOTIONS I ove Êe godine svatko moÊi pronaÊi neπto za sebe jer Varaædin se pretvara u grad smijeha i radosti, na ulice izlaze mnogi izvoaËi, glazbenici, performeri, glumci i zabavljaËi, trgovci…/There will again be something for everybody in Varaædin this year. The city will reinvent itself as a place of joy and laughter with performers, musicians, actors, entertainers and traders descending upon its streets… www.spancirfest.com 23.-25.8., Vrbovec KAJ SU JELI NA©I STARI/ WHAT OUR ELDERS ATE VrbovËani vam predstavljaju tradicionalna jela, a gozbu prate sportska

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natjecanja i gla zbeni program./ The locals of Vrbovec present their traditional fare. Culinary feasts are accompanied by sports competitions and musical programmes. www.vrbovec.hr Osijek i okolica/Osijek and surroundings 26.8.-1.9. VUKOVAR FILM FESTIVAL Predstavlja jednu od najvitalnijih kinomatografija − filmove podunavskih zemalja./The festival presents one of the most vital cinematographies − films made in the countries of the Danube region. www.vukovarfilmfestival.com Pula i okolica 10.8., Rovinj KONCERT IVE GAMULINA GIANNIJA/IVO GAMULIN GIANNI CONCERT Uæivajte u koncertu proslavljenoga hrvatskog tenora Ive Gamulina Giannija i πpanjolske glazbene dive Pastore Soler./Enjoy the concert of the famous Croatian tenor Ivo Gamulin Gianni and the Spanish music diva Pastora Soler. www.ivogamulin.com Rijeka i okolica /Rijeka and surroundings 6.-10.8., Senj ME–UNARODNI SENJSKI LJETNI FESTIVAL/ INTERNATIONAL SUMMER CARNIVAL IN SENJ Uz mnoga popratna dogaanja, vrhunac je festival velika karnevalska povorka, a to što se odræava usred ljeta, festivalu daje osobitu draæ./The host of events peak with a big carnival parade. The fact that it is held in the middle of summer gives it a special charm. www.tz-senj.hr 9.8., Opatija 12.8., Mali Loπinj KONCERT IVE GAMULINA GIANNIJA/IVO GAMULIN GIANNI CONCERT Uæivajte u koncertu proslavljenoga hrvatskog tenora Ive Gamulina Giannija i πpanjolske glazbene dive Pastore Soler./Enjoy the concert of the famous Croatian tenor Ivo Gamulin Gianni and the Spanish music diva Pastora Soler. www.ivogamulin.com 15.8., Rijeka, Trsat HODO»A©ΔE NA VELIKU GOSPU/PILGRIMAGE ON THE DAY OF THE ASSUMPTION OF THE BLESSED VIRGIN MARY U Rijeci na Trsatu nalazi se Gospino svetiπte poznato po mnogim usliπenjima i hodoËaπÊima brojnih vjernika, osobito na dan Velike Gospe./The Shrine of Our Lady of Trsat on

Trsat in Rijeka is famous for the many wishes which were granted and the mass pilgrimages, especially on the Day of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. www.trsat-svetiste.com 28.-31.8., IËiÊi LIBURNIA FILM FESTIVAL Ovaj filmski festival posjetiteljima nudi najkvaliteniji izbor domaÊih dokumentarnih filmova./This film festival offers its visitors a choice of the best Croatian documentary films. www.liburniafilmfestival.com 30.-31.8., Vrbnik DANI VINA OTOKA KRKA/ DAYS OF KRK ISLAND WINES Posjetitelji mogu uæivati u cjelodnevnim degustacijama i prezentacijama vina, kupiti kvalitetna vina i kuπati autohtone krËke proizvode./Visitors can enjoy wine tastings and presentations all day; they can purchase quality wines and sample authentic Krk culinary fares. www.vrbnik.hr Zadar i okolica/Zadar and surroundings 1.-14.8., Pag PA©KO KULTURNO LJETO/ A SUMMER OF CULTURE ON PAG Festival u Pag dovodi vrhunske glazbenike pa Êe tako i ove godine posjetiteljima prirediti vrhunski glazbeni doæivljaj./This festival which brings top musicians to Pag will offer visitors the most wonderful musical experiences this year. www.pag-tourism.hr 3.-8.8., Starigrad Paklenica 4. STARIGRAD PAKLENICA FILM FESTIVAL Posjetite SPFF - meunarodni Festival glazbenog dokumentarca. Naime, u sjajnom ambijentu Paklenice prikazat Êe tridesetak filmova svih kategorija i hrvatske premijerne filmove./ Visit SPFF − The International Music Documentar y Film Festival. The exquisite ambience of Paklenica will serve as the backdrop for projections of some 30 films of various genres and premieres of recent Croatian productions. www.spff.hr 9.-11.8., Sali, Dugi otok SALJSKE UÆANCE TovareÊa muzika poziva vas na dane slavlja i opuπtene atmosfere. Sudjelujte u Ribarskoj noÊi i kuπajte riblje specijalitete u Saljskoj noÊi../ The Donkey Music invites you to enjoy days of festivities and a relaxed atmosphere. Partake in Fishermen’s Night and taste fish delicacies during the nights in Sali. www.dugiotok.hr

Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings

23.-24.8., ©ibenik VE»ERI DALMATINSKE ©ANSONE/EVENINGS OF DALMATIAN ‘CHANCONS’ Posluπajte cijenjenu klapsku glazbu koja simbolizira æivot, povijest i tradiciju Dalmacije./Listen to the much appreciated klapa songs which symbolize the life, history and traditions of Dalmatia. www.sansona-sibenik.hr

14.8., Cavtat KONCERT IVE GAMULINA GIANNIJA/IVO GAMULIN GIANNI CONCERT Uæivajte u koncertu proslavljenoga hrvatskog tenora Ive Gamulina Giannija i πpanjolske glazbene dive Pastore Soler./Enjoy the concert of the famous Croatian tenor Ivo Gamulin Gianni and the Spanish music diva Pastora Soler. www.ivogamulin.com

Split i okolica/Split and surroundings 6.8. Solin 17.8. Makarska KONCERT IVE GAMULINA GIANNIJA/IVO GAMULIN GIANNI CONCERT Uæivajte u koncertu proslavljenoga hrvatskog tenora Ive Gamulina Giannija i πpanjolske glazbene dive Pastore Soler./Enjoy the concert of the famous Croatian tenor Ivo Gamulin Gianni and the Spanish music diva Pastora Soler. www.ivogamulin.com 16. − 19.8., Split DANI DIOKLECIJANA/ DIOCLETIAN’S DAYS Kostimirana zabavno-glazbena manifestacija odnosno povijesni spektakl koji Êe vjerodostojno prikazati vladavinu cara Dioklecijana u Splitu./ The costumed extravaganza of music and entertainment is a historical spectacle which serves to re-enact the era of Emperor Diocletian’s rule of Split. www.najboljeuhrvatskoj.info 4.8., Sinj SINJSKA ALKA/THE ALKA OF SINJ Sinjani se prisjeÊaju pobjede naroda Cetinske krajine nad turskom vojskom, prireujuÊi tradicionalno viteπko natjecanje sinjskih alkara./ Citizens of Sinj commemorate the victory of the people of the Cetina region over the Turkish army by staging a traditional knights’ tournament with Sinj Alkars participating. www.alka.hr 18.8., Omiπ GUSARSKA BITKA/PIRATE BATTLE Omiπ postaje gradom gusara jer predstavlja jedinstveni dogaaj - izvornu bitku omiπkih i mletaËkih gusara iz 13. stoljeÊa, temeljenu na povijesnim Ëinjenicama./Omiπ is taken over by pirates and a unique event: the reenactment of an original 13th century battle between pirates from Omiπ and Venice, which is based on historical facts. www.omis.hr

RUJAN/SEPTEMBER Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 1.-8.9., Krapina TJEDAN KAJKAVSKE KULTURE/ A WEEK OF KAJKAVIAN CULTURE Posjetitelji Krapine mogu se uvjeriti kako je aktualna kajkavska kultura i uæivati na koncertu novih kajkavskih popevki i u drugim zanimljivim dogaanjima./Visitors of Krapina can bear witness to the unyielding strength of Kajkavian culture and enjoy concerts of newly composed Kajkavian songs and other interesting happenings. www.tzg-krapina.hr Pula i okolica/Pula and surroundings 6.-8.9, PoreË GIOSTRA Povijesni festival koji posjetitelje tematski vraÊa u davnu povijest PoreËa, a glavna je atrakcija konjska utrka Giostra./This themed festival takes its visitors back into the distant past of PoreË, while the main attraction is the Giostra horse race. www.giostra.info Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings 6.-15.9., KorËula KORKYRA BAROQUE FESTIVAL Posjetite KorËulu i uæivajte na meunarodnom festivalu na kojemu Êe se predstaviti vodeÊi ansambli i solisti specijalizirani za baroknu glazbu./Visit KorËula and enjoy a line-up of leading ensembles and soloists specializing in baroque music who will perform during this international festival. www.korkyrabaroque.com

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SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 145 NOVOSTI NEWS 146 NAŠI ZAPOSLENICI OUR STAFF 150 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED 154 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 157 FLOTA FLEET 159 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 161 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB ZAGREB AIRPORT 162 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 164 ADRESE ADDRESSES CROATIA AIRLINES

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KU AJTE VINA NA NA IM LETOVIMA TASTE THE WINES ON OUR FLIGHTS Piše/By Saša Špiranec

Laguna Cabernet Sauvignon 2011. Svjeæe arome herbalnog obilježja karakteristiËnoga za istarske cabernete sreÊu se s privlaËnom i intenzivnom voÊnoπÊu. List rajËice i primjese zelene paprike s tonovima πumskog voÊa, crnog ribiza i suhih πljiva. Bogata i puna okusa, æivahnih kiselina, Ëvrste taninske strukture, zavodljive soËnosti, te njeæne pikantnosti na zavrπetku...

D. FabijaniÊ

Vinarija Agrolaguna uzgaja brojne vinograde Ëije plodove plasira u niz dræava u Europi i Sjevernoj Americi. Samo vinogradi proteæu se na Ëak 520 ha. U potencijal Istre i Agrolaguninih crnjaka moæete se uvjeriti i na naπim letovima jer vam tijekom ljeta i jeseni nudimo kvalitetno istarsko vino:

VeÊ legendarna Vinarija MatoπeviÊ ima dvije udaljene lokacije koje vrijedi posjetiti. Jedna je vinarija, a druga vinograd ispod mjestaπca Grimalda. Vinograd je to iz snova na lokaciji iz snova. Najviπe paænje treba bijelim vinima, to jest, malvaziji koja dolazi u nekoliko izdanja. Vino koje takoer moæete kuπati na letovima Croatia Airlinesa jest: MatoπeviÊ Malvazija Cirrus 2011. Svjeæa i umjerena mirisa, voÊnih aroma poput jabuke i breskve, s njeænim notama cvijeta bagrema, pomijeπanih s neπto izraæenijim tonovima oraπastoga voÊa. Okus odiπe svjeæinom, elegantan je, neπto voÊnijeg proﬁla u poËetku, mineralno slankast u sredini, s dozom ﬁne gorËine na samom zavrπetku…

The Agrolaguna Winery cultivates numerous vineyards and sells their products to many countries in Europe and North America. The vineyards spread across 520 hectares of land. Throughout the summer and autumn we are offering the highest quality Istrian red wine from the Agrolaguna wineries on our ﬂights. 144

Laguna Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 The fresh herbal aromas typical of Istrian Cabernets are complemented with the attractive and intensive fruity flavour of tomato leaves, a hint of green pepper and undertones of forest fruits, blackcurrants and dried plums. This wine offers a rich and full flavour, with vivid acidity, a firm tannin structure, and seductive spiciness at the end. The legendary MatoπeviÊ Winery has two distant locations well worth a visit. One is a winery, and the other a vineyard beneath the village of Grimalda. It is a dream-like vineyard in a dream-like location. White wines require the utmost care, specifically Malvasia, which has two sorts: Alba from Bujπtina, and Grimalda from Grimalda. The wine that you can also try on Croatia Airlines flights is: MatoπeviÊ Malvasia Cirrus 2011. This wine offers fresh and mild scents and the fruity aroma of apples and pears, with delicate notes of acacia flower mixed with a prominent flavour of nuts. The taste is fresh and elegant, fruity at the start, with mineral saltiness in the middle, and a dose of delicate bitterness at the end.

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CROATIA AIRLINES NOVOSTI

CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS during the summer schedule (31.3-26.10) we would especially like to offer you the following routes: Dubrovnik − Venice and Paris, Pula − Amsterdam and Frankfurt, and Zadar − Frankfurt... You can ﬁnd more information about our attractive summer offers and other information relating to your travels at www.croatiaairlines.com

POÐITE U SUSRET LJETU!

Croatia Airlines tijekom turistiËke sezone nudi vam kvalitetne i povoljne moguÊnosti putovanja unutar Hrvatske te iz domaÊih u inozemna odrediπta, æelite li svoj ljetni odmor provesti u najljepπim europskim turistiËkim odredištima. Iz naπe ponude izravnih meunarodnih letova tijekom ljetnog reda letenja (31.3.-26.10) za vas izdvajamo sljedeÊe linije: Dubrovnik - Venecija i Pariz, Pula - Amsterdam i Frankfurt i Zadar − Frankfurt ... Viπe informacija o atraktivnim ljetnim ponudama, kao i druge informacije u vezi s vašim putovanjem, moæete pronaÊi na www.croatiaairlines.hr Na www.croatiaairlines.hr takoer moæete rezervirati hotelski smjeπtaj i transfer. Croatia Airlines, u suradnji s partnerima Booking.com i HRS, nudi moguÊnost rezervacije kvalitetnoga hotelskog smjeπtaja. ■ Avioprijevoznik vam u suradnji s partnerom CarTrawler, preko web stranice, nudi i moguÊnost rezervacije usluge rent-a-cara. U ponudi su razliËita vozila viπe od 550 dobavljaËa na 28.000 lokacija u svijetu. Rezervacija preko web stranice jednostavna je, a plaÊanje sigurno. Stoga koristite se online uslugama Croatia Airlinesa te jednostavno i sigurno organizirajte svoje putovanje zrakoplovom. ■

LET THE SUMMER FESTIVITES BEGIN!

During the tourist season, Croatia Airlines offers you high quality and favourable opportunities for travels within Croatia, as well as from Croatian to foreign destinations if you want to spend your summer vacation in some of the most beautiful European tourist destinations. From our offer of direct international ﬂights

■ At www.croatiaairlines.com you can also book your hotel accommodation and transfer. In cooperation with our partners, Booking.com and HRS, Croatia Airlines offers the possibility of booking good quality hotel accommodation. ■ In cooperation with our partner CarTrawler, we offer you the possibility of booking renta-car services via our web page. The offer includes various vehicles from 550 suppliers at 28,000 locations around the world. Booking via our Internet page is simple, and payment is safe. Therefore, use Croatia Airlines online services and organise your air travels in a simple and safe manner.

CROATIA AIRLINES GSM KARTICA -

NAJPOVOLJNIJA SIM KARTICA ZA VAŠA INOZEMNA PUTOVANJA Na naπim letovima nudimo vam novi proizvod. RijeË je o meunarodnoj SIM kartici koja vam omoguÊuje znaËajnu uπtedu troπkova telefoniranja preko mobilnog ureaja tijekom boravka u inozemstvu. Kartica Croatia Airlines GSM omoguÊuje uπtedu novca naπim putnicima koji se koriste uslugom roaminga i putuju iz razliËitih zemalja, a ne samo iz Hrvatske. Nudimo vam i odgovarajuÊi ureaj - mobitel Nokia 101 dual SIM koji je kompatibilan s Croatia Airlines GSM karticom, kao i sa SIM karticama drugih mobilnih operatera. Takoer, karticu Croatia Airlines GSM moæete umetnuti u svaki dekodirani telefonski ureaj. Prednosti Croatia Airlines GSM kartice − bez mjeseËnih troπkova pretplate − moguÊnost primanja besplatnih dolaznih poziva u inozemstvu u 140 zemalja − odlazni pozivi unutar Europske unije prema mobilnim i ﬁksnim mrežama stoje 0,23 eura po minuti − veoma niske cijene poziva, od samo 0,23 eura po minuti izmeu Croatia Airlines GSM korisnika u 140 zemalja − jedinstvena obraËunska jedinica izmeu korisnika − niske cijene pristupa internetu u 123 zemlje svijeta − SMS poruke diljem svijeta stoje 0.10 eura

− SMS poruke preko interneta besplatne su... Dodatne informacije o Croatia Airlines GSM kartici moæete pronaÊi na web stranicama: www.croatiaairlines.hr i na www.croatiaairlinesgsm.com CROATIA AIRLINES GSM CARD − THE MOST FAVOURABLE SIM CARD FOR YOUR TRAVELS ABROAD We are offering a new product on our flights an international SIM card which enables you to significantly reduce the cost of telephone communications using your mobile device during your stay in a foreign country. The Croatia Airlines GSM card enables our passengers who use roaming services and travel from various countries, not only from Croatia, to save money. We offer you an adequate device for this service − the Nokia 101 dual SIM cell phone which is compatible with the Croatia Airlines GSM card, as well as with SIM cards provided by other mobile operators. Also, you can use Croatia Airlines GSM card with any decoded cell phone. Advantages of Croatia Airlines GSM card − no monthly fees - possibility of receiving free-of-charge incoming calls in 140 countries abroad - outgoing calls to mobile and fixed numbers within the European Union for 0,23 €/min. − extremely low tariff of 0,23 €/min. for conversations between Croatia Airlines GSM subscribers in 140 countries − a single calculation unit between the users is applied − low prices for access to the Internet in 123 countries globally − SMS text messages throughout the world cost 0.10 euro − SMS text messages via the Internet are free-of-charge... You can find additional information about Croatia Airlines GSM card on our web pages: www.croatiaairlines.com and www.croatiaairlinesgsm.com

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NAŠI ZAPOSLENICI VAMA NA USLUZI OUR STAFF AT YOUR SERVICE Piše/By Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ

vaj put predstavljamo vam Zorana JajiÊa, optimistiËnoga i duhovitog voditelja Kontakt centra Croatia Airlinesa. To je Sluæba s kojom najprije komunicirate, najËeπÊe pri kupnji zrakoplovnih karata. Kolega Zoran JajiÊ, po struci ekonomist i komunikolog, u naπoj je kompaniji gotovo od prvoga dana, toËnije od 1991. godine, i na to je ponosan. Osamnaest godina radio je kao domaÊin zrakoplova, voditelj kabine-purser i instruktor. − Lijep je posao koji ti omoguÊuje da druge ljude uËiniπ sretnima, posao koji ti omoguÊuje putovanja svijetom, susrete s razliËitim ljudima i stalnu dinamiku. Letenje je zanimljiv posao, ali to je posao bez radnog vremena, upravo kao i onaj prethodni − posao turistiËkog vodiËa. U proljeÊe 2009. godine odluËio se prizemljiti i zaposliti u Kontakt centru. Trebalo mu je vremena za prilagodbu na novi posao, novo radno vrijeme i novu problematiku. Rad u Sluæbi dinamiËan je i naπeg kolegu, zbog komunikacije s putnicima, podsjeÊa na nekadaπnji rad u avionu. Kontakt centar sastoji se od tri dijela − telefonske prodaje u kojoj je zaposleno dvadeset i dvoje kolega, u Zagrebu i Splitu; internetske prodaje u kojoj je zaposleno πest kolega i kontrole obraËuna prihoda, kojom se bavi jedna kolegica. Naπ je kolega svjestan da o kvalitetnoj komunikaciji s putnicima ovisi i njihov povratak na naπe letove. Njegovi zaposlenici, kaæe, imaju veoma dobar osjeÊaj za korisnike, vrijedni su i ugodno je raditi s njima. − Svoje zaposlenike samo usmjeravam i tako, na neki naËin, oblikujem naπu uslugu. No, oni su nositelji posla i najvaænija su karika u lancu. Ja bez njih ne mogu, a oni bez mene mogu; i bez 146

mene oni su Kontakt centar. Nastojim im kvalitetno prenijeti sve informacije jer u naπem poslu one znaËe novac i svaka je pogreπka vidljiva i skupa. U poslu ima adrenalina jer probleme, u suradnji s drugim sluæbama, rjeπavamo odmah − nastavlja kolega. U Sluæbi Ëesto presluπavaju razgovore s putnicima s kojima svakodnevno komuniciraju preko telefona (062 500 505 i +385 1 6676 555); kao i preko e-maila, faksa i Facebooka. Zapažaju eventualne pogreπke, na njima uËe i nastoje ih ispraviti. Tijekom zime, kad imaju manje posla, πkoluju se i obnavljaju znanja. Sluæba je uvijek spremna na dodatne napore. Poslije Uskrsa poËinje veÊi pritisak i nastavlja se tijekom ljetne sezone. Spremno odgovaraju i na izvanredne situacije i poremeÊaje u zraËnom prometu, kojih takoer ima, kao πto je bio sluËaj s pojavom vulkanske praπine ili razliËitih πtrajkova. Naπ je kolega Zoran JajiÊ osobito zabavan i pozitivan, Ëak i u zahtjevnim poslovnim situacijama, πto je djelomice bio povod ovom naπem razgovoru. S njegovim dolaskom na Ëelo Kontakt centra, na prvi kat naπe plave poslovne zgrade u Buzinu, doπao je neizostavan smijeh i vrlo dosjetljiv humor. Kad putuje, spretno se sluæi s viπe jezika jer uËenje stranih jezika omiljen mu je hobi. Slobodno vrijeme voli provoditi s prijateljima koji pozitivno razmiπljaju. Na kraju naπ kolega Zoran kaæe kako je, radeÊi u naπim zrakoplovima, nauËio da najprije treba poπteno napraviti posao, a zatim ostane vremena i za dobru zabavu. A kad je posao i zabava, njegovoj sreÊi nema kraja... ■

n this issue, we present Zoran JajiÊ, the optimistic and witty head of the Croatia Airlines Contact Centre − the service you communicate with first, usually when you buy your airline tickets. Our colleague Zoran JajiÊ, who has degrees in economics and communications, is very proud of the fact that has been with our company from the very first day, since 1991. He spent 18 years working as a flight attendant, chief purser and instructor. − Who would not like a job which allows them to make people happy, travel the world and meet people, and always do something different? Flying is that kind of job; interesting, but also a job without fixed working hours, just like the job I had before, as a tour guide. In the spring of 2009, he decided to be grounded and he accepted the position as the head of the Contact Centre. It took him a while to adjust to the new job, new working hours and the new issues he had to deal with. The dynamic work in this service reminds our

colleague of his former work in the cabin where he also had to communicate with passengers. The Contact Centre consists of three parts − telephone sales which has 22 staff members located in Zagreb and Split, internet sales which has 6 people, and payment and revenue control which has one employee. Our colleague knows that good communication with passengers is crucial in their decision to come back. He says that his staff members have a very good feeling for the people they communicate with, they are hard working and a pleasure to work with. − I am here to guide them and thus, in a way, shape our service. But they are the ones who actually do the job and therefore they are the most important link in the chain. I would not be able to do my job without them; they could do theirs without me. They would still be the Croatia Airlines Contact Centre even without me. I try to update them on all current developments, because in our line of work timely information is money because every error is visible and expensive. There is a lot of adrenaline in our work as we try to deal with situations immediately, as soon as they arise, in cooperation with other services. As part of the everyday job, they often listen to recordings of daily phone conversations with passengers who call them on 062 500 505 and +385 1 6676 555; they also read e-mails and Facebook messages. They try to spot possible mistakes in order to learn from them and correct them in the future. In the wintertime, which is usually a somewhat calmer period, they have trainings and refresher courses. The service is always prepared to deal with the extra pressure which usually starts after Easter and continues throughout the summer season. They are prepared to respond to emergency situations and disruptions in air traffic which they also face from time to time, like during the volcano dust crisis or various strikes. Our colleague Zoran JajiÊ keeps his positive spirit and a sense of humour even in the most demanding business situations, which is one of the reasons we wanted to interview him. When he was appointed head of the Contact Centre, he brought laughter and a sharp sense of humour to the first floor of our blue company building in Buzin. On his travels, he makes the most of his knowledge of several languages. Learning languages is his favourite pastime. He likes to spend time with friends who think positively. Finally, our colleague Zoran says that while working as a crew member on our aircraft he learned that first you have to do your job well, and then you will have time for good fun. And when the job itself is a source of fun and pleasure, could there be anything better than that? ■

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Miles & More Popunite i pošaljite / Complete and send off

Pristupnica − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia ili na fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200 Enrolment − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia or by fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200 0HR01

Molimo da napišete samo jednu adresu velikim, štampanim slovima / Please state only one address in capital letters Ime / Titula / Oslovljavanje / First or given name Title Salutation g / Mr. Dr. Ga / Mrs. Prof. Ulica i broj, zgrada / Street and number, building

Poštanski broj / Postcode

Datum roenja (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of birth (dd/mm/yyyy)

Prezime / Family name

Poštanski pretinac / PO Box

Grad / Town

Država / Country

Odjel (nije obavezno) / Department (optional)

Molimo Vas da unesete naziv kompanije (nije obavezno) / Please enter name of company here (optional)

E-mail-adresa (Molimo Vas da popunite ovo polje) / E-mail address (Please enter your e-mail address and check/mark the box below to receive account information via the Miles & More online newsletter!) Telefon / Telephone

Broj mobitela / Mobile number

Molimo Vas da velikim štampanim slovima popunite polja podacima o svom trenutnom letu / Please fill in your current flight details in capital letters Broj karte, etix®, ETKT (npr. 220 3000000474) / Ticket number, etix®, ETKT (e.g. 220 3000000474)

Br. leta (npr. LH 180) / Flight No. (e.g. LH 180)

Datum odlaska (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of departure (dd/mm/yyyy)

Ruta (npr. Frankfurt–Paris) / Route (e.g. Frankfurt–Paris)

Osoban odabir naËina komunikacije* / Personal communication preferences* Æelim primati sljedeÊe i slažem se da se moji osobni podaci koriste za: / I would like to receive the following communication and agree to the usage of my personal data for communication: Miles & More Online Newsletter/ Miles & More Online Newsletter

Miles & More ponude posebno za Vas / Miles & More offers especially for you

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Informacije o proizvodima Lufthanse i ostalim Miles & More avio partnerima / Product information about Lufthansa and the Miles & More airline partners

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Podaci o Vašem Miles & More raËunu i Miles & More newsletter mogu jedino biti poslani elektroniËkom poštom. NeÊete ih primiti poštom; bilo kako bilo, svoj raËun milja u bilo koje vrijeme možete vidjeti na miles-and-more.com / Miles & More account information is only sent via the Miles & More online newsletter. There is no separate mailing.; however, you can view your mileage account anytime at miles-and-more.com.

Odabirem jezik za komunikaciju / Preferred correspondence language:

NjemaËki / German

Engleski / English

Ovisno o državi koja se prikazuje u Vašoj adresi, moguÊe je da Êete moÊi odabrati jezik od njih nekoliko dodatnih. Jezik korespondencije može varirati ovisno o mediju. Kako biste provjerili svoj raËun ili ažurirali svoj profil, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com/myprofile. / Based on the country shown in your address, additional languages may be available for you to choose from. The language of correspondence may vary depending on the medium. To check your account status or to update your profile, please visit miles-and-more.com/myprofile. Sudjelovanje u frequent flyer progamu Miles and More je podložno Pravilima i Uvjetima. Kako biste proËitali trenutna Pravila i Uvjete, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com. Registracija u Miles & More programu je besplatna. / Participation in the Miles & More frequent flyer program is subject to the Terms & Conditions. To read the current Terms & Conditions, please visit miles-and-more.com. Registration in the Miles & More program is free of charge. * Imate pravo bilo kad povuÊi svoj pristanak, djelomiËno ili u cijelosti, tako da ažurirate svoj Miles & More profil online ili da nazovete Miles & More Servisni Centar na broj: 062 220 220 ili +49-69-66 10 23 30 10. Vaši dodatni komentari, za koje ne postoji predvien prostor, neÊe biti uzeti u obzir. / You have the right to revoke your consent at any time, inwhole or in part, by updating your Miles & More profile online or by calling the Miles & More Service Center at +49 - 69 - 66 10 23 30 10. Unfortunately all supplementary notes can not be considered.

Datum / Date

Potpis / Signature

Jednostavno je prijaviti se za Ëlanstvo: • preko interneta na web stranici www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • poπtom • telefaksom na broj +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 • kod osoblja u zrakoplovu Bit Êe nam zadovoljstvo ubiljeæiti Vam milje za trenutaËni let kao i za bilo koji drugi let koji ste ostvarili u posljednjih 6 mjeseci s Croatia Airlinesom, kompanijom Lufthansa ili nekim drugim partnerom u programu. Molimo Vas da gore unesete podatke o trenutaËnom letu. Retroaktivno ubiljeæavanje milja za druge letove moæete zatraæiti na stranici www.miles-and-more.com. Molimo Vas da uvijek Ëuvate originalnu kartu za ulazak u zrakoplov (boarding pass) i kopiju putne karte dok Vam se milje ne ubiljeæe na raËun.

It’s so easy to register: • Online at www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • By fax +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200

• By post • With one of your flight attendants

We will be happy to credit your account with the miles for this flight and for any other flights taken in the last 6 months with Croatia Airlines, Lufthansa or another Miles & More partner. Enter your current flight above. To have the miles for the other flights credited to your account, go to www.miles-and-more.com. Please retain your original boarding card and passenger receipt (copy of your ticket) until the miles have been credited to your account.

Razred putovanja/ Service class

Klasa knjiæenja/

Miles & More – veÊ sad poËnite prikupljati milje

Booking class

Broj leta/

Flight number

Broj karte/

Miles & More – start collecting miles now

Document number

LUFTPOST

Prostor za marku.

PAR AVION PRIORITAIRE

Please affix stamp here.

RÉPONSE PUBLICITAIRE/ANTWORT ALLEMAGNE Miles & More Postfach 14 34 33309 Gütersloh ALLEMAGNE

»im se poËnete koristiti svojom privremenom karticom Miles & More, milje Êe Vam se biljeæiti na raËun. Molimo Vas da pri svakoj rezervaciji navedete broj svoje kartice Miles & More. Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. Milje za danaπnji let bit Êe Vam ubiljeæene na raËun ako na prednju stranu unesete sve potrebne podatke o letu.

Ime/First name

Miles will start landing in your account immediately after you start to use your temporary Miles & More Card. Please remember to state your personal Miles & More number every time you make a reservation. You will receive your proper Miles & More Card once you have collected one mile.

Prezime/Surname

We will credit the miles for your current flight to your account once you have provided all the details of the current flight on the front.

Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. We will send you your regular Miles & More Card as soon as you have earned one mile.

VALENTINO, TOM FORD, PROENZA SCHOULER, LANVIN, BALENCIAGA, AZZEDINE ALAร A, MARY KATRANTZOU, SAINT LAURENT, GIVENCHY, BALMAIN, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, RICK OWENS, STELLA MCCARTNEY, &ะด/,1( %85%(55< 3525680 1$7$/,$ %5,//, 0$51, $/(;$1'(5 :$1* 2/<03,$ /( 7$1 $&1( FALIERO SARTI, VIONNET, MAISON MICHEL, TOM BINNS, ERICKSON BEAMON, CARMINA CAMPUS, NOIS, 1,&+2/$6 .,5.:22' *,$19,72 5266, %85$. 8<$1 3285 0$5,$ /,1'$ )$552: /8;( +$*$ 3$5,6 Maria Zagreb, Masarykova 8, 01-4811011 Maria Dubrovnik, Sv. Dominika bb, 020-321330 2XWOHW 'XEURYQLN &YLMHWH =X]RULรพ 2XWOHW =DJUHE &HQWDU .DSWRO 1RYD 9HV www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr facebook.com/mariastore.hr CROATIA AIRLINES 149

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Miles & More

Osnove Miles & More programa

Introducing Miles & More

Miles & More najveÊi je program nagraivanja putnika u Europi i nudi Ëlanovima ra zliËite moguÊnosti prikupljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih par tnera u programu. Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija par tnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kar tica Miles & More.

Miles & More is the greatest frequent ﬂyer programme in Europe offering its members numerous possibilities for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many attractive privileges. Members collect miles by using the services of many partners in the programme. Miles are credited for ﬂights of all Star Alliance members and other airline partners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car partners or staying in participating hotels.

Zatraæite svoju Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditnu kar ticu! n 5 kuna = 1 milja - za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko ove kar tice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja n Dvostruke milje - osvajate za plaÊanje turistiË kih aranæmana i zrakoplovnih karata u Diners Club Travelu n Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda - jed nostav no plaÊajte svojom Diners Club kar ticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu.

Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card! n 5 HRK = 1 mile - for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile. n Earn double miles - for paying package tours and ﬂight tickets at Diners Club Travel n Collect award miles ever ywhere - simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC ofﬁces in Croatia or abroad

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Osvojite joπ viπe milja - koriπtenje ostalih pogodnosti Diners Cluba poput besplatnih online usluga, e-plaÊanja ili trajnih naloga donosi vam dodatne milje. n 2 kar tice - 1 raËun Miles & More - koristite li se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom kar ticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More.

Collect extra award miles - by using other Diners Club beneﬁts, such as free online services, internet banking and e-paying, standing orders etc. n 2 credit cards - 1 Miles & More membership account - use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account.

Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu! Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club objavili su, osim companion kreditnih karica (poslovnih i privatnih), i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potroπnja od 14 kuna na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paru 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card! Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club have issued, besides a companion credit card (both business and private), a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Zatraæite svoju Croatia Airlines American Express kreditnu kar ticu! n 4 kune = 1 nagradna milja - za svake 4 kune potroπene preko Premium kar tice biljeæi se 1 nagradna milja, odnosno za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko Standard kar tice n 2500 milja dobrodoπlice - za nove osnovne Premium korisnike i 1250 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Premium korisnike n 1500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard korisnike i 750 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Standard korisnike n Dvostruke nagradne milje - za potroπnju u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i Jumbo Travel Ser vices PBZ Carda n UËlanjenje u Priority Pass bez naknade te pristup u viπe od 450 VIP salona u zraËnim lukama

Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express credit card! n 4 HRK = 1 award mile - for every 4 HRK spent via Premium card, you collect 1 award mile, and for every 5 HRK spent via Standard card you collect 1 mile. n 2.500 welcome miles - for new basic Premium card users and 1.250 welcome miles for new additional Premium card users. n 1.500 welcome miles - for new basic Standard card users and 750 welcome miles for new additional Standard card users. n Earn double award miles - using the card to pay for travels at Croatia Airlines sales ofﬁces and Jumbo Travel Services of PBZ Card. n Free Priority Pass enrollment- it enables you to access into more than 450 VIP airport lounges

Razredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti Koriπtenjem usluga par tnera u programu prikupljate nagradne milje koje zamjenjujete za nagrade i statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status i pogodnosti πto ih ostvarujete. Statusne milje prikupljaju se redovitim letovima sljedeÊih zrakoplovnih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Lufthansa Regional i Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS i svi zrakoplovni partneri iz mreæe Star Alliance, Air Dolomiti i Luxair. Svaka tako ostvarena milja biljeæi se i kao statusna i kao nagradna milja. Milje HON Circle statusne su milje koje se prikupljaju letovima sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Austrian Air lines, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Luf thansa Regional i Luf thansa Private Jet), Luxair i Swiss International Airlines. Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendarskoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller, a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini oËe ku je vas status Se nator. »la novi koji priku pe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u ra zdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalendarske godine, stjeËu status HON Circle.

Tiers and benefits By using the Miles & More partners’ services members collect award miles, which are traded in for awards; and status miles, which determine a member’s membership status and privileges. Status miles can be accrued on scheduled flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, all Star Alliance partners, Air Dolomiti and Luxair. Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status and an award mile. HON Circle miles are status miles that you collect on flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), Luxair and Swiss International Airlines. With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year members earn the Frequent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, earn the HON Circle status.

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Pogodnosti statusa Frequent Traveller - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja na zaista prijeeni ili standardni iznos za letove sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Lufthansa Regional i Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Airways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair i Continental. - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - uporaba Lufthansa Business Class Loungea prilikom letova s nekom od Ëlanica Star Alliancea - prednost na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog razreda - 40 kg prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji Ako je rijeË o komadnom prijevozu prtljage, 2 komada u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu, a 3 u prvom razredu putovanja

Frequent Traveller privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent on the actual flown miles or standard mileage amounts on flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Airways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair and Continental. - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Use of the Lufthansa Business Class Lounges while flying with a Star Alliance Member - Waiting list priority - Check-in at the Lufthansa Business Class counter - Free baggage allowance of 40 kg depending on the destination and the airline If piece concept is applicable 2 bags in total (Economy or Business) and 3 bags in the First Class

Pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - predujam od 50.000 milja - uporaba Lufthansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold Lounge partnera u Star Allianceu - viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog razreda - osigurano mjesto na letu za rezervacije do 48 sati odnosno do 72 sata unaprijed, ovisno o razredu putovanja - 50 posto manje milja za suputnika na nagradnom letu, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dodatnih 20 kg ili dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonomskom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu - šest e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade), te dva vauËera prilikom svake obnove statusa. - Senator Premium Award

Senator privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - 50,000 miles in advance - Access to the Lufthansa Senator Lounge as well as to the Star Gold Lounges of Star Alliance partners - High waiting list priority - First Class check-in - Booking guarantee up to 48 or 72 hours in advance depending on the booking class - A 50 per cent mile age discount for an accompanying per son on ﬂ ig ht awar ds depending on the airline - Ad di ti o nal 20 kg bag ga ge al lowan ce or an addi ti o nal bag depending on the destination and the airline - Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and 4 in the First Class - 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers and two e-vouchers each time the status is renewed. - Senator Premium Award

Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle - sve pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus od 25 posto - predujam od 100.000 milja - Status Senator za supruænika ili partnera, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - šest e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade) te šest prilikom zadržavanja statusa - dodatne pogodnosti koje nude partneri programa osiguravajuÊi jedinstveno iskustvo putovanja - komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonomskom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu

HON Circle privileges - All existing Senator privileges - Executive bonus of 25 per cent - 100,000 miles in advance - Senator status for your spouse or partner depending on the airline - 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers and 6 every time the status is renewed - Additional beneﬁts offered by Miles & More partners, rounding off the travel experience - Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and 4 in the First Class

Troπite milje Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge nagrade: nagradne karte, premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), razliËite nagrade kojima se moæete koristiti pri putovanju (hotelski smjeπtaj, unajmljivanje vozila). Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com

Spend miles You can exchange collected award miles for awards prepared for you: award tickets, upgrades, various travel awards. You can ﬁnd more at: www.miles-and-more.com

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U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU RED SJEDENJA Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo. RU»NA PRTLJAGA

PO©TOVANI PUTNICI! Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima. Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije.

Sva Ëekirana prtljaga mora imati putnikovo ime. Besplatne oznake za prtljagu mogu se dobiti u svim prodajnim uredima Croatia Airlinesa. Oznaku za prtljagu stavite i unutar prtljage. Sve vrijedne stvari i predmete nosite sa sobom u zrakoplov. Osobnu ruËnu prtljagu odloæite iznad svojeg sjedala ili ispod njega, tako da teæi komadi idu ispod, a lakπi iznad, a da istodobno ne smeta drugim putnicima i posadi zrakoplova. UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima. PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja. Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta.

mogu se rabiti sve vrijeme: sluπni aparati, ugraeni medicinski aparati, elektroniËki satovi, elektroniËki stimulatori æivaca. ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva. USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U zrakoplovu raspolaæemo razliËitim vrstama alkoholnih i bezalkoholnih piÊa, kojima Êe vas stjuardese posluæiti zajedno s jelom. Prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed, moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka (oznaka: SPML), kao npr. vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed. Ako ste naruËili poseban obrok, molimo vas da o tome na vrijeme izvijestite osoblje. Putnicima nije dopušteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Osoblje zrakoplova neÊe posluæiti alkoholna piÊa alkoholiziranim putnicima. Prije slijetanja osoblje Êe ukloniti sve πalice i Ëaπe. Puπenje nije dopuπteno tijekom cijelog leta, a u toaletima postoje i detektori za dim, koji se aktiviraju u sluËaju puπenja. MEDICINSKA POMOΔ U zrakoplovu imamo priruËnu ljekarnu sa svim potrebnim lijekovima za prvu pomoÊ (s lijekovima protiv bolova, ﬂasterima i ostalim osnovnim medicinskim sredstvima). Za medicinsku pomoÊ obratite se kabinskom osoblju.

UPORABA TELEFONSKIH NAPRAVA UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi.

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Sadaπnje odredbe zabranjuju uporabu odreenih prenosivih elektroniËkih naprava tijekom komercijalnih letova, zbog moguÊnosti ometanja navigacijske i komunikacijske opreme. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa zabranjena je uporaba ovih elektroniËkih naprava: prijenosnih telefona, komercijalnih dvovalnih prijenosnika (npr. walkie talkie); amaterskih prijenosnih ureaja; CB prijenosnih ureaja: prijenosnih ureaja koji emitiraju RF energiju na odreenoj frekvenciji, perifernih ureaja za raËunala ili igre. Ovi se ureaji mogu rabiti kad zrakoplov nije na pisti, uzletu, poËetnom penjanju, prilazu ili fazama slijetanja: osobna raËunala (periferni ureaji kao πto su πtampaËi, vanjski disc driveovi itd. nisu dopuπteni); osobna raËunala s igrama, VHF skenerski prijamnici; CD diskovi; kasetofoni, videorekorderi; kalkulatori. SljedeÊi ureaji

SKY - SHOP U avionu moæete kupiti bescarinsku robu. Roba se moæe platiti u sljedeÊim konvertibilnim valutama: euro, ameriËki dolar, funta, πvicarski franak i u nacionalnoj valuti kunama, te sljedeÊim karticama: Diners, Visa, American Express i EuroMaster Card. Zbog teæine aviona ili trenutaËnog nedostatka prostora ponuda moæe biti ograniËena, pa vas molimo da to uzmete u obzir. ■ DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our ﬁrst and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken

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ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests. With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services. Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inflight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr Please read the instructions below, impor-tant for your safety and comfort during the flight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your flight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the flight. USE OF ELECTRONIC DEVICES Current regulations prohibit the use of certain types of portable electronic devices (PFDs) on board commercial flights, due to potential interference with navigational and communications equipment. On Croatia Airlines’ flights it is prohibited to use the following electronic devices: cellular telephones,

ﬁrearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers. SERVICE ON BOARD Both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are available on board and are served with your meal. If you wish to order a special kind of meal such as vegeterian, dietary etc., you can do so when buying your ticket but must be 24 hours in advance. Kosher meals should be ordered 48 hours in advance. Make sure that your ﬂight attendant is aware that you have ordered a special meal. Passengers are prohibited from consuming their own alcoholic beverages on board.

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking flights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in. SEAT ASSIGNMENT Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing. BAGGAGE All checked-in baggage must have the passen-ger’s name on the outside. Free identification cards are available at all OU ticket offices. We suggest that you place an identification tag inside your luggage as well. Carry all valuable and important items with you on the plane. Hand luggage must be stowed under the passenger seat or in the overhead compartment - heavy pieces below and lighter above the seat - in a way not to disturb other passengers or the cabin crew. SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole flight.

commercial two-way transmitters (e. g., walkie-talkies); amateur radio transmitters; Citizen Band (CB) transmitters; 49-MHz transmitters, devices designed to radiate RF energy on a speciﬁc frequency; peripheral devices for computers or computer games. The following devices may be used when the aircraft is not in the taxiing, take-off, initial climb, approach or landing phases: personal computers (cable-connected peripheral devices such as printers, external disc drives, etc. are not permitted); personal computer games, VHS scanner receivers; compact disc players; cassette tape players; video recorders; calculators. The following may be operated at all times: hearing aids, implanted medical devices, electronic watches, electronic nerve stimulators.

The cabin crew are instructed to discontinue ser-ving passengers who appear to be intoxicated. All cups and glasses will be removed from the passenger areas prior to take-off and landing. Smoking is not permitted on any of Croatia Airlines’ ﬂights. A fresh air vent and smoke detectors are located in toilletes and will be activated if smoking.

MEDICAL AID Painkillers, Band Aid and other essential medical items are kept on the aircraft. Ask your ﬂight attendant should you need any assistance. SKY SHOP

RESTRICTED ITEMS The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage. Such items are: explosives, ﬂammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons,

Duty free goods can be paid for in major currencies such as: Euro, US Dollar, British Pounds, Swiss Franks and national currency Kuna, whilst Diners, Visa, American Express and Euro-Master Card are also welcome. ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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EVA Air has joined Star Alliance. Giving you an award winning service to Taiwan and a whole new way of connecting to Asia. In my business itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about connectivity. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve earned it.

Jackie Hsu, ASUS Corporate Vice President and Star Alliance Gold Status.

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FLOTA

FLEET Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m /ft )

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

162/164

144

Airbus 320-200

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta. One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Airbus 319-100

Dash 8-Q400

Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta. One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking. CROATIA AIRLINES

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A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

USA CHARLOTTE NEW YORK PHILADELPHIA WASHINGTON

BERGEN

St. Petersburg STAVANGER

Aberdeen Edinburg Belfast Dublin

Manchester

VILNIUS GDANSK

POZNAN

KASSEL

Chisinau LYON

Turin

Porto

VENICE

Genoa Madrid

RIJEKA

OSIJEK BELGRADE Bucharest

BRA»

BARCELONA

Podgorica Bari

Palermo Catania

ATHENS

TEL AVIV Q u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama

Q linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines’ services

in cooperation with partner airline

Partneri / Partners:

Brussels Airlines

US Airways CROATIA AIRLINES

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IT IS ALL WITHIN YOUR REACH AIRPORT PULA

SO MANY ROUTES TO ONE SOLE DESTINATION

PULA AIRPORT LTD Li탑njan, Valtursko polje 210, p.o.b.89 52100 Pula - Croatia Tel.: +385 52 530 105 Fax. +385 52 550 914

THE GATEWAY TO THE ISTRIAN OASIS 160

E-mail: operations@airport-pula.hr www.airport-pula.com

CROATIA AIRLINES

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ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

ZAGREB AIRPORT

Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21

International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

2 Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7

Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike

Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima

Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

P C

Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A”

Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”

i S B

Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte

TAKSI BUS

CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije

Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

Restaurant Faust VranËi Ê

Panoramic View Panoramski pogled

Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila

Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica

Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica

Coffee Bar Kavana

Customs Control Carinska kontrola

Bar

Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina

Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks)

Newstand Novinarnica

Baggage Prtljaga

Passport Control Kontrola putovnica

Shops Prodavaonice

i i

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.

5.00 9.00 13.30 17.30

U DUBROVNIKU autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 75 minuta prije leta. Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova.

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 8.00 8.30 9.00 9.30 10.30 11.30 12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30 14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30 16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30 18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30 20.00

In DUBROVNIK airport buses leave 90 minutes before the ﬂight, and in ZADAR 75 minutes before the ﬂight. The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing. Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) - Zagreb (zraËna luka) - Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) Rijeka - Polazak u 15.30 sati.

Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) - Zagreb Airport - Departure at 5.00. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport - Rijeka - Departure at 15.30.

Flight Information Informacije o letovima Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb: Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb: 5.30 10.00 14.00 18.00

6.00 10.30 14.30 18.30

6.30 11.00 15.00 19.00

7.00 11.30 15.30 19.30

7.30 12.00 16.00 20.00

8.00 12.30 16.30

8.30 13.00 17.00

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, 098 472-539, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn. The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas. Autobusi iz ZAGREBA polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova. Bus departures in ZAGREB are an hour and a half prior for domestic ﬂights and two hours prior for international ﬂights.

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WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL?

Petra BertiÊ

Dragi putnici!

Svako putovanje u meni probudi dijete koje s veseljem zaroni u potragu za novim neotkrivenim mjestima. Each trip awakes a child in me, who joyfully sets off to pursue new and undiscovered places.

Hvala vam na lijepim fotografijama koje nam πaljete te predoËujete i nama ljepote svijeta. Pred nama su ljetni godiπnji odmori, po mnogima najljepπe razdoblje u godini. Nadamo se kako svoj odmor planirate s nama. RazliËite su moguÊnosti putovanja s naπom kompanijom, a na vama je da izaberete onu najbolju. Poπaljite nam fotografije i sudjelujte u nagradnoj igri. Glavna su nagrada dvije povratne zrakoplovne karte Croatia Airlinesa za odrediπte po vaπem izboru i poklon-paketi. Autoricu fotografije Petru MaπtroviÊ odabrali smo kao najbolju u ovome broju te je nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa. Promidžbenim poklon-paketom nagradit Êemo Petru BertiÊ i Mateju JurjeviÊ. Pozivamo vas da nam nastavite slati svoje fotografije jer i u iduÊem broju oËekuju vas vrijedne nagrade. Posjetite naπu web stranicu www.croatiaairlines.hr, pogledajte uvjete nagradnog natjeËaja i sudjelujte! Dear passengers!

Mateja JurjeviÊ

Thank you for the wonderful photographs you have been sending in to share the beauties of the world with us. Summer vacations are ahead of us; according to many - the most beautiful period of the year. We hope you are planning your vacation with us. There are various possibilities for travels with our company and you only need to select the one which works best for you. Send us your photos and take part in the photo contest. We will award the ﬁrst prize winner with two return tickets on Croatia Airlines to a destination of your choice, while the second and third place winners will receive promotional packages. We have selected Petra MaπtroviÊ as the author of the best photo in this issue; she is the winner of two Croatia Airlines return air tickets. Petra BertiÊ and Mateja JurjeviÊ have won our promotional packages. Please continue sending us your photographs because valuable awards await you in the next issue, too. Visit our web page www.croatiaairlines.com, see the conditions, and take part in the contest!

Volim putovati, jer uæivam u upoznavanju drugih svjetova, razliËitih kultura, svakakvih priËa, novih okusa i mirisa....i najviπe volim sve to skupa dokumentirati svojim fotoaparatom! I like travelling because I enjoy experiencing other worlds, different cultures, all kinds of stories, new tastes and scents.... and most of all I like documenting all that with my camera!

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Petra MaπtroviÊ

Putovanja pomiËu granice i zbliæavaju ljude. Travelling moves borders and brings people together.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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UPPER TOWN IN THE PAST

Upper Town, Saturdays, 17:00 - 20:00 h

13.4. - 29.9.

UPPER TOWN MUSICAL PANORAMA

Upper Town, St.Catherine’s Squre, Strossmayer Promenade, St. Mark’s Square, Saturdays and Sundays, 10:00 - 12:00 h

13.4. - 28.9.

PROMENADE CONCERTS -ZRINJEVAC

Zrinjevac Park, Saturdays, 11:00 - 13:00 h

5.7. - 27.9.

DANCE EVENINGS - ZRINJEVAC

Zrinjevac Park, Fridays, 20:30 - 22:30 h

14.4. - 29.9.

PROMENADE CONCERTS -MAKSIMIR

Maksimir Park - Belvedere, Sundays, 11:00 - 13:00 h from 7.7. 10:30 - 12:30 h

Zagreb Time Machine

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FOLKLORE PERFORMANCES

Kaptol, Ban Jelaþiü Square and Tkalþiüeva Street, Saturdays, 10:00 - 12:00 h / Sundays, 11:00 - 13:00 h

12.4. - 26.10.

KUMICE S DOLCA

Dolac Market, Fridays and Saturdays, 8:00 - 13:00 h

27.6. - 26.9.

THE STREET OF MUSIC AND FUN

Tkalþiüeva Street Thursdays and Fridays, 19:00 -23:00 h Saturdays, 11:00 -13:00 h

13.4. - 29.9.

CHANGING OF THE GUARD -

GUARD OF HONOUR OF THE CRAVAT REGIMENT St. Mark’s Square, Saturdays and Sundays, 12:00 h * In case of bad weather programs will be cancelled.

www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

CROATIA AIRLINES

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ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 616-01-53 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/ugd@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 062-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 *500 za pozive iz mobilne mreže Hrvatske pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 18:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept. Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 062 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Brojevi telefonskog check-ina / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam WTC, Tower B, Level 4, Schiphol Boulevard 207, 1118 BH Luchthaven Schiphol Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Fax (+31-20) 316-42-81 amsto@croatiaairlines.hr Bruxelles Brussels Airport Box 31, 1930 Zaventem Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik ZraËna luka, Airport Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, 60 313 Frankfurt, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London Room 332 Concorde House,North Wing, Perimeter Road, Gatwick Airport West Sussex RH6 0DW Tel. (+44-20) 8563-00-22, 0844 3710 310 (UK only) Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615 Airport Heathrow, Room 531, Terminal 1, Zone H Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-46-83 Fax (+44-20) 8754-73-77 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr

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ADDRESSES München Terminal 2, Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Büro B.4.1322, 85 356 München, Tel. (+49-89) 97-592-730/731 Fax (+49-89) 97-592-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr Paris Roissypôle, Le Dôme 1, 3th ﬂoor Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France 95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-4000 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-5511 parto@croatiaairlines.hr Pula ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-52) 218-909 (+385-52) 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5, 51 000 Rijeka, Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma ZraËna luka, Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci Torre Ufﬁci 2, Room 518 00054 Fiumicino Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo ZraËna luka Sarajevo, Airport Khurta Schorka 36, 71 210 Sarajevo, Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skoplje Skopje Airport, Alexander The Great, 1043 Petrovec Macedonia Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 2561 850 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split Obala hrv. nar. preporoda 9, 21 000 Split, Tel. (+385-21) 362-997, 362-055 (komercijala) Fax (+385-21) 362-567 sputo@croatiaairlines.hr ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb Zrinjevac 17, 10 000 Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 48-19-633 Fax (+385-1) 48-19-632 ZraËna luka Zagreb, Zagreb Airport, 10 150 Zagreb, Pleso Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-585 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Zürich Limmatquai 138, 8001 Zürich, Tel. (+41-44) 261-08-40 Fax (+41-44) 261-08-83 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe »eπka CK Blue Sky Travel Na Perštýne 1, 11 000 Opletalova 57 Tel. (+420-2) 2222-2235 Fax (+420-2) 2222-0237 GrËka / Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str. 105 57 Athens, Greece Tel. (+30-210) 32-17-679, 32-17-750 Fax (+30-210) 32-49-152

Kosovo Airtour

Head Office: St. Bill Clinton 32 10031 Prishtina, Kosovo Tel. (+381-38) 233-833 Fax (+381-38) 245-845 Airport Office: Prishtina International Airport Tel. (+381-38) 594-111 Fax (+381-38) 594-222 Portugal / Lisbon ATR - Actividades Turisticas e Representações Edifício ES Viagens, Av. D. João II, Lote 1.16.1 - 7º em,1990-083 Lisbon Tel: +351 21 761 89 81 Fax: +351 21 425 24 12 croatiaairlines@atr.co.pt SlovaËka / CK Blue Sky Travel 1. poschodie, Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel. (+421) 5262 2375 Srbija / Oki Air International Aerodrom Nikola Tesla 11180 Beograd 89 Tel: + 381 11 228 6457 Fax: + 381 11 228 6457 okiairbeg@oki.me Španjolska / Global Representacion Turistica (GRT) c/Valencia, 266, 4/1a 08007 Barcelona Tel. (+34-934) 875-775 Fax (+34-934) 880-121 Turska / ZENITH Services Head Office: Ordu Caddesi, No. 206/1, Laleli 34134 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 513-2667 Fax (+90-212) 512-4234 Airport Office: Istanbul Ataturk Airport International Terminal Departure Floor Yesilkoy 34149 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 465-50-23, 465-40-92 Fax (+90-212) 465-40-92 Bliski istok / Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda St., Migdalor blgd. 12th Floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. (+972-3) 516-7181, 516-7140 Fax (+972-3) 516-7174 SAD / USA Networld Inc. / Croatia America 300 Lanidex Plaza, Parsippany NJ 07054, Tel. (+1-973) 884-3401 Fax (+1-973) 428-3929 Toll free 888-462-7628 Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. (+61-3) 9699-9355 Fax (+61-3) 9699-9388 Novi Zeland / New Zealand Croatia Times Limited Ltd. NZ PO Box 104-056; Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Road, Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. (+64-9) 837-9897 Fax (+64-9) 837-9898 Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo 105-0001 Japan Tel. (+81-3) 3593-6740 Fax (+81-3) 3593-6534 J. Koreja GSA-a Bohram Air Services 7F, Donghwa Bldg, 58-7 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: +82 2 754 6336 Fax: +82 2 779 8795 customersupport@croatiaairlines.co.kr

CROATIA AIRLINES

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