Inflight ljeto 2015

CROATIA PUTNI »ASOPIS n

INFLIGHT MAGAZINE

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» A S O P I S

L J E T O LJETO

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I N F L I G H T

S U M M E R

PRIMJERAK

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M A G A Z I N E

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YOUR

PERSONAL

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SUMMER 2015

A time to remember Embark on your journey, and spend quality time with someone special in Croatia’s charming Capital. Reconnect in Zagreb with one of Sheraton’s fantastic weekend packages, the “romantic getaway” or “wellness revitalization”.

Contact us today at: reservations@sheratonzagreb.com or call us: +385 1 455 3535

Romantic package for two or Wellness Revitalization package for two per € night

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©2014 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Sheraton and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

For full terms and conditions, visit sheraton.com/zagreb

Vis

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Krešimir KuËko

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ Rukovoditeljica marketinga/ Head of Marketing Zlata PrpiÊ Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o.

Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26

Dobro doπli u naπ zrakoplov.

Uistinu nam je drago πto i ovog ljeta letite s nama. U æelji da vam let bude πto ugodniji, potrudili smo se i ovaj put vaπe trenutke u zrakoplovu obogatiti i sadræajima iz naπega putnog Ëasopisa.

No, prije nego πto vas ukratko upoznamo s time πto sve moæete proËitati u ljetnom broju, evo nekih novosti iz naπe tvrtke.

VeÊ drugu godinu zaredom Croatia Airlines biljeæi dobit u poslovanju, πto je rezultat kontinuiranoga i dosljednog provoenja svih mjera strateπkoga, financijskoga i operativnog restrukturiranja tvrtke. Pozitivan trend biljeæi se i u prometnim uËincima. Ukupno je lani prevezeno 1,825.063 putnika, πto je dva posto viπe u odnosu na prethodnu godinu, a dobri su i pokazatelji toËnosti polijetanja (84,7 posto polazaka zrakoplova unutar 15 minuta u redovitom prometu).

Od 25. travnja redovitim letovima povezujemo Dubrovnik i Nicu. Izravni letovi na toj liniji uvedeni su prvi put u povijesti tvrtke i trajat Êe do kraja listopada. Od 1. svibnja putnici Croatia Airlinesa i Singapore Airlinesa imaju joπ veÊi izbor putovanja. To je rezultat sporazuma o zajedniËkom koriπtenju oznaka za letove prema kojemu Singapore Airlines dodaje svoju oznaku SQ na letove Croatia Airlinesa iz Londona i Kopenhagena u Zagreb, a Croatia Airlines dodaje svoju oznaku OU na letove Singapore Airlinesa izmeu Singapura i Londona te Singapura i Kopenhagena. Takoer, potrudili smo se dodatno razonoditi i naπe najmlae putnike, koji, kada prvi put lete zrakoplovom, odsad mogu dobiti i potvrdu o svome prvom letu, s potpisom kapetana.

A kad je rijeË o temama u Ëasopisu, nastojali smo vam pribliæiti, rijeËju i slikom, mnoge ljepote naπe zemlje.

Najprije vas vodimo do Lovrana i okolice, zatim do otoka Visa, a bili smo i u Rovinju, koji je zadnjega svibanjskog vikenda ugostio mnoge predstavnike svjetske turistiËke elite. Osim toga, upoznajemo vas i s tradicijskom kamenom graom jadranskih suhozida, ali i vodimo u kontinenalnu Hrvatsku nastojeÊi doËarati ljepote hrvatskih rijeka, i, dakako, ponuditi obilje zanimljiva sadræaja iz glavnoga grada Zagreba.

Dragi putnici, æelim vam svima ugodan ljetni odmor te lijepe i zanimljive trenutke u naπoj zemlji i nadam se da Êete nam opet iskazati povjerenje i letjeti s nama.

Dear passengers, Welcome to our aircraft. We are truly pleased that you are flying with us again this summer. In order to make this flight as pleasant as possible, we have tried to enrich your moments on our aircraft with interesting content offered in our inflight magazine. But before

D. FabijaniÊ

D. FabijaniÊ

Poπtovani putnici!

we briefly inform you about what you can read in the summer issue, here is some news about our company.

For the second year in a row, Croatia Airlines reported an operating profit, resulting from the continuous and consistent implementation of all strategic and financial measures, as well as the operational restructuring of the company. Last year, a positive trend was recorded in traffic effects as well. In 2014, we carried 1,825,063 passengers, which was two percent more than in the previous year, and achieved good take-off accuracy indicators (84.7 percent of departures within 15 minutes in regular traffic).

From April 25th on, we are flying from Dubrovnik to Nice. Direct regular flights on this route were introduced for the first time in the history of the company, and will be carried out until the end of October. Since May 1st, passengers of Croatia Airlines and Singapore Airlines have been given an even greater choice of flights. This is a result of a share-code agreement under which Singapore Airlines adds SQ designator code to all Croatia Airlines-operated flights from London and Copenhagen to the Croatian capital of Zagreb. On a reciprocal basis, Croatia Airlines adds OU designator code to all Singapore Airlines-operated flights between Singapore and London and Singapore and Copenhagen. Also, we have worked to further entertain our youngest passengers. If flying for the first time, they will receive a confirmation of their first flight with the captain’s signature.

As for topics covered in the magazine, we have tried to bring you closer, by words and pictures, to the many beauties of our country. We first take you to Lovran and the surrounding area, then, to the island of Vis, and finally to Rovinj, which hosted many representatives of the world tourism elite on the last weekend in May. In addition, we will acquaint you with the traditional stone structure of Adriatic dry walls, take you through continental Croatia to witness the beauty of Croatian rivers, and, of course, offer plenty of interesting content from the Croatian capital, Zagreb.

Dear passengers, I wish you all a pleasant summer vacation and beautiful and interesting moments in our country, and I hope that you will, again, give us your confidence and fly with us.

Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec Tisak/Print

Vaš, Yours faithfully,

Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

Uvodnik.indd 1

Krešimir KuËko Predsjednik Uprave President & CEO

6/11/15 3:14 PM

SADRÆAJ CONTENTS

6 Razgovor: Petrit Çeku

SLAVA GLAZBI NA VISINI

Tridesetogodiπnji Petrit Çeku nedvojbeno je jedan od najveÊih klasiËnih gitarista danaπnjice. Njegovo sviraËko majstorstvo i nevjerojatna glazbeniËka sugestivnost imaju gotovo hipnotiËku moÊ; svoju opËinjenost glazbom Çeku zna prenijeti na sluπatelje.

Interview: Petrit Çeku

GLORY TO MUSIC IN THE HIGHEST!

Thirty-year old Petrit Çeku is, undoubtedly, one of the greatest classical guitarists of our time. The power of his musical mastery and his incredible suggestiveness as a musician are almost hypnotic; Çeku knows how to convey his fascination with music to his listeners.

16 Arhitektura

24 Obala

Gradnja crkve sv. Blaæa u Zagrebu poËela je 1912. godine, prema nagraenome natjeËajnom projektu Viktora KovaËiÊa. Dovrπena je i blagoslovljena prije sto godina, na Cvjetnu nedjelju.

Malena ribarska mjesta i povijesni gradovi smjeπteni zapadno od Opatije − IËiÊi, Ika, Lovran, MoπÊeniËka Draga, BrseË i MoπÊenice − danas su vrlo traæena turistiËka odrediπta, a svako se odlikuje nekom svojom posebnoπÊu.

Architecture

The Coast

CRKVA SV. BLAÆA, DOVRŠAVANJE NEDOVRŠENOGA

THE CHURCH OF ST. BLAISE, FINISHING THE UNFINISHED

The construction of the Church of St. Blaise in Zagreb started in 1912, from a prize-winning design by Viktor KovaËiÊ. The construction work was completed and the church had a Palm Sunday consecration a hundred years ago.

Ljeto/Summer 2015 www.croatiaairlines.com

32 Otoci

VIS, OTOK KOJI NUDI SVE

Vis je jednostavan, joπ niËim iskvaren otok, gdje su ljudi i danas prisni i joπ se, natjeËuÊi se u tome prijateljski, iskreno trude da gosti od njih odu zadovoljni. Vis je otok koji nudi sve.

Islands

VIS, AN ISLAND THAT OFFERS IT ALL

Vis is a simple, unspoiled island, where people are still close and sincere in their striving to satisfy their guests, competing with each other in a friendly way.

This is an island that offers it all.

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CROATIA AIRLINES

ÆIVOPISNE KVARNERSKE RAZGLEDNICE

LIVELY KVARNER POSTCARDS

Small fishing villages and historical towns located west of Opatija - IËiÊi, Ika, Lovran, MoπÊeniËka Draga, BrseË and MoπÊenice - are today, highlydesired tourist destinations, each of which is unique in its own way.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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62 Tradicija

SADRÆAJ CONTENTS

KAMENA POEZIJA TIŠINE

Starosjedioci jadranskih otoka i obala sustavno su podizali suhozide, a takvi izriËaji drevne kamene poezije iskazuju i snagu jedinstvene jednostavnosti u kojoj se æivot predstavlja bez maski i suviπnih pridjeva.

Tradition

THE POETIC SILENCE OF STONE

Dry-stone masonry has been widely practiced by the inhabitants of the Adriatic islands and littoral.

These expressions of ancient poetry in stone also testify to the power of simplicity where life appears without masks and unnecessary attributes.

78 Rijeke

94 Meridijani

More nije jedino bogatstvo Hrvatske, rijeke su svakako jedno od najvaænijih. Slobodno moæemo reÊi da gotovo nijedna europska zemlja nema tako raznolike, a oËuvane rijeke.

Tri velika japanska svetiπta i bezbrojne staze koje ih povezuju meusobno i s raznih strana vode do njih, priznate su 2004. godine kao svjetska baπtina Unesca.

HRVATSKE RIJEKE, BISERI EUROPE

Rivers

Meridians

You would be mistaken in thinking that the sea is Croatia’s only asset. Rivers are certainly very important. We can easily say that almost no European country has as diverse and well-preserved rivers as Croatia does.

Three large shrines in Japan, and the countless paths that interconnect them and lead to them from different directions, were recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage site in 2004.

CROATIAN RIVERS, THE PEARLS OF EUROPE

120 Zagreb

Dizajneri u Hrvatskoj u proizvodima povezanima s turizmom pronalaze inspiraciju što je rezultiralo izvrsnim meunarodno prepoznatim projektima, koji pripadaju tipologiji suvenira.

Strossmayerovo πetaliπte na zagrebaËkome Gornjem gradu slovi za jedno od najromantiËnijih gradskih mjesta.

Zagreb

Designers in Croatia have found their inspiration in tourism-related products, which resulted in the realization of truly excellent internationallyrecognized projects belonging to the typology of souvenirs.

The Strossmayer Promenade in Zagreb’s Upper Town is considered to be one of most romantic places in the city.

138 Enologija

MALVASIJA DUBROVA»KA, ZABORAVLJENI PA PONOVNO OTKRIVENI BISER Gotovo da nema ljubitelja vina, u svijetu i u Hrvatskoj, koji nije Ëuo za ime Malvasija ili Malvazija. U Hrvatskoj imamo dvije - Malvaziju istarsku i Malvasiju dubrovaËku.

Enology

MALVASIJA OF DUBROVNIK, THE ONCE-FORGOTTEN, BUT RECENTLY RE-DISCOVERED PEARL

There is hardly a wine lover, in the world or in Croatia, who has not heard of Malvasija or Malvazija. In Croatia, there are two varieties - Istrian Malvazija and Dubrovnik Malvasija.

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CROATIA AIRLINES

LJUBAVNA PRI»A STROSSMAYEROVA ŠETALIŠTA

Design

REVOLUTION OF THE CROATIAN SOUVENIR

This is your personal copy

THE PILGRIMAGE ROUTES OF THE KII PENINSULA

110 Dizajn

REVOLUCIJA HRVATSKOG SUVENIRA

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak

HODO»ASNI»KI PUTOVI POLUOTOKA KII

THE STROSSMAYER PROMENADE - A LOVE STORY

CROATIA AIRLINES

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Petar StrmeËki

RAZGOVOR PETRIT ÇEKU

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CROATIA AIRLINES

Piπe/By Zlatko Madžar

Branko HrkaË

INTERVIEW PETRIT ÇEKU

CROATIA AIRLINES

7

Tridesetogodiπnji Petrit Çeku nedvojbeno je jedan od najveÊih klasiËnih gitarista danaπnjice. Joπ za studentskih dana osvojio je sva relevantna meunarodna gitarska natjecanja i poËeo s koncertnim putovanjem svijetom.

Thirty-year old Petrit Çeku is undoubtedly one of the greatest classical guitarists of today. He was the winner of all the relevant international guitar competitions and started touring the world while still a

Damil Kalogjera

student.

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CROATIA AIRLINES

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jegovo sviraËko majstorstvo i nevjerojatna glazbeniËka sugestivnost imaju gotovo hipnotiËku moÊ; svoju opËinjenost glazbom Petrit Çeku zna prenijeti na sluπatelje, koji s njegovih misionarskih koncerata odlaze kao svojevrsni preobraÊenici.

■ U tinejdæerskoj dobi napustili ste rodni Prizren, kao Ëovjek i glazbenik stasali ste u Zagrebu i zatim se nekoliko godina usavrπavali u Baltimoreu. Odnedavna ste se skrasili u Berlinu, odakle − s kosovskom i hrvatskom putovnicom − odlazite na koncertna putovanja objema hemisferama. Premda Vam je dosuen kozmopolitski æivot glazbenog skitnice, ipak Êu Vas upitati: s kojom ste sredinom najdublje srasli i − muËi li Vas nostalgija? − Nostalgiju vuËem sa sobom na svim svojim putovanjima, uz jedan kovËeg i gitaru kao ruËnu prtljagu. Priprema i realizacija solistiËkih koncerata takoer znaËi samoÊu, no to je osobita samoÊa, poput one na pozornici. Dok vjeæbam, Ëekam zrakoplove ili vlakove, dok putujem ili pak iπËekujem poËetak koncerta − ja sam uvijek sâm. Dakako, ta dosuena mi samotnost plodno je tlo za nostalgiju, Ëeænju za imaginarnim domom… U svemu tome utjeπno je jedino to πto me putovi Ëesto vraÊaju u dva najvaænija mi grada − rodni Prizren i preporodni Zagreb. Ti povratci, Ëak i kad su veoma kratki, doslovce me obnavljaju, jer svoj ljudski odraz jedino mogu spoznati u okruæju bliskih mi ljudi, dok pod nogama osjeÊam svoje tlo. No kako su u mom sadaπnjem æivotu sve rjei ti iscjeljujuÊi dani povrataka, Ëesto me prate nostalgija i melankolija, koje zapravo volim. Od svih rijeËi ovoga svijeta najdraæa mi je portugalska saudade, koja se odnosi na zapravo neizrecivu mjeπavinu tuge, melankolije, Ëeænje…

■ Prvu poduku iz sviranja gitare dobili ste od oca, koji je umro prerano ali ipak je doæivio Vaπu potpunu profesionalnu afirmaciju… − Osim πto me upoznao s gitarom, otac me uputio na one temeljne vrijednosti za kojima i nadalje tragam u glazbi. Izgradio mi je nekakav ideal pametnoga glazbenika koji promiπlja svaku svoju interpretaciju, Ëak i onda kad improvizira. To je vaæan temelj za interpreta klasiËne glazbe, koji − osim svega drugoga − uistinu mora biti glazbeni mislilac. Dok prouËavate i uvjeæbavate neko glazbeno djelo, morate donijeti mnogo odluka. Kad prepoznate i usporedite sve interpretacijske opcije, tek tada poËinje bespoπtedna selekcija i danonoÊno propitivanje u potrazi za onim najboljim rjeπenjima. Taj proces traje do koncerta, na kojemu morate izvuÊi sræ iz dotadaπnjega pripremnog rada, πto bi u konaËnici trebalo rezultirati dojmom

da interpretacija nastaje na podiju i baπ u tom trenutku, poput spontane improvizacije.

Takav je bio i moj otac: pametan i promiπljen, ali spontan i neoptereÊen.

■ Kao Ëovjek i glazbenik sazreli ste u Zagrebu. Premda su Vas o tome Ëesto pitali, ipak nam recite neku od svojih varijacija o neizbjeænoj temi: Petrit Çeku i Zagreb? − Od svih gradova najdraæi mi je Zagreb.

Doæivljavam ga poput æivog stvorenja, veoma dragoga i velikoduπnog. Naravno, Zagreb sam idealizirao mnogo prije nego što sam u njega i doπao, jer zbog njegovih velikih gitarista i sjajnih pedagoga to je vrlo atraktivno, πtoviπe svjetski relevantno srediπte za moj glazbeniËki fah. VeÊ i upoznavanje s vrlo znaËajnim zagrebaËkim gitaristom Xhevdetom Sahatxhijom, uËinilo mi se poput privida. A kad sam svom buduÊem profesoru odsvirao jednu kratku skladbu i kad mi je on predloæio da doem u njegovu zagrebaËku gitarsku klasu, tek sam tada pomislio da se sve to zbiva samo u mome snu. Moja æivotna tranzicija iz maloga grada Prizrena u veliki Zagreb protekla je vrlo glatko. Iz tog vremena, kada sam tek poËeo uËiti hrvatski jezik, rado se sjeÊam svojih nebrojenih jeziËnih bisera, pa su tako u mojoj hrvatskoj varijanti »ehinje bile »eπkinje?!... (smijeh)… Zbog velikoduπnosti mnogih dobronamjernih ljudi, svojih profesora i novosteËenih prijatelja, brzo sam se ukorijenio u Zagrebu, gdje sam se skrasio u domu obitelji Cernogoraz, koja je πezdeset godina prijateljevala s mojom obitelji u Prizrenu. Te divne dane nikad neÊu zaboraviti!... I joπ neπto veoma vaæno: zagrebaËku koncertnu publiku doæivljavam poput komornog ansambla, koji moje recitale svira zajedno sa mnom. Zato sam se Zagrebu i njegovoj koncertnoj publici redovito vraÊao Ëak i u razdoblju kad sam æivio u Americi.

■ Nakon studija u zagrebaËkoj klasi Darka Petrinjaka usavrπavali ste se u Baltimoreu kod poznatoga gitarista Manuela Barrueca, πto najvjerojatnije nije bio tek sluËajan odabir. − Manuel Barrueco oliËenje je promiπljenoga, odgovornoga glazbenika, kakvoga sam oduvijek zamiπljao. On je umjetnik koji ne zna za kompromise. Dakako, Barrueco je svjestan svoga golemog utjecaja na cijeli gitaristiËki svijet, no od njegove sviraËke samosvijesti mnogo je vaænija njegova umjetniËka savjesnost, πto je najjaËe pogonsko gorivo njegova stalnoga glazbenog uspona. Ono πto me osobito veseli kod Manuela Barrueca i nekolicine gitarista njegove generacije, ukljuËivπi tu i Darka Petrinjaka, jest to što glazbeni svijet sada prvi put svjedoËi istinskome majstorstvu nekoliko gitarista koji su veÊ u zreloj æivotnoj dobi i koji su nepopravljivo − sve bolji i bolji! Nedavno

sam bio na Barruecovom koncertu u Istanbulu; nezamislivo visoka razina njegova muziciranja na gitari nadiπla je sve πto sam do sada Ëuo.

Veoma sam poËaπÊen πto sam imao privilegij studirati kod maestra Barrueca.

■ Proputovavπi gotovo cijeli svijet, upoznali ste vrlo razliËitu publiku; pretpostavljam da nije isto svirate li u domovini gitare ©panjolskoj ili, primjerice, u Sankt Peterburgu. Prilagođavate li se, na neki naËin, osobitostima odreenog auditorija? − U glazbi uvijek nastojim ostati svoj, premda moram reÊi kako sam veÊ i genetski sklon druπtvenoj prilagodbi; u poduæim razgovorima spontano prelazim na dijalekt svog sugovornika, iako znam da su moje jeziËne prilagodbe katkad vrlo smijeπne autentiËnim govornicima pojedinih narjeËja. To i moja baka redovito radi, od nje sam to naslijedio… Donekle je tako i u glazbi: osjetivπi osobitost neke publike, jednostavno ne mogu odoljeti malim prilagodbama temperamenta svoje svirke, πto postiæem s drugaËijim nijansiranjem akcenata i tempa. Naravno, ja i nadalje Ëvrsto vjerujem kako sve to treba biti svedeno na minimum, pogotovo kad je posrijedi klasiËni repertoar.

Veliki sam pobornik ideje da bi i glazba morala postati neizostavnim dijelom opÊe naobrazbe, poput matematike ili povijesti; æelio bih æivjeti u svijetu u kojemu svi znaju znaËenje pojmova napuljski sekstakord ili manhajmska raketa, kao πto, primjerice, znaju za kvadratni korijen ili trojanskog konja.

■ »esto nastupate u komornim sastavima, i upravo na tome planu konstantom Vam je Gitarski trio Elogio, u kojem veÊ nekoliko godina muzicirate sa svojim vrsnim kolegama i istinskim prijateljima − Portugalcem Pedrom Ribeirom Rodriguesom i Hrvatom Tomislavom VukπiÊem. Što Vam znaËi ta Vaπa zagrebaËka gitarska trilaterala? − Trio Elogio zapravo je uzviπena zabava i najljepπi naËin druæenja s najboljim prijateljima.

Naπi su pokusi i koncerti teËni, prirodni, gotovo dæezerski neusiljeni. Kao glazbenici uzajamno se dobro poznajemo, i premda zajedno sviramo tek nekih sedam godina, veÊ imamo svoj osobit, prepoznatljiv zvuk. Glavninu naπeg repertoara tvore originalne ili obraene skladbe napisane za izvanredni ZagrebaËki gitarski trio, koji je proπle godine obiljeæio tridesetu obljetnicu djelovanja. Ono πto je meni osobito privlaËno u muziciranju takvog sastava jest izazovno proπiren zvukovni prostor, omoguÊen kombinacijom triju gitara. Tako se poveÊava moguÊnost gitarskih preradbi klavirskih, komornih pa i orkestralnih partitura velikih skladatelja, jer malo se toga moæe suvislo obraditi

za jednu gitaru, a za tri gitare moæe se πtoπta.

Uostalom, Ëak je i klavirski Ëarobnjak Frédéric Chopin svojedobno izjavio: Niπta nije ljepπe od gitare, osim moæda dviju gitara, a ja bih tome rado dodao kako su tri gitare onaj idealan broj.

■ UmjetniËki ishod gitarskih preradbi katkada moæe biti vrlo upitan, no ne i u sluËaju dvojice vrsnih zagrebaËkih obraivaËa Darka Petrinjaka i Valtera Deπpalja. Ovih dana zavrπili ste studijsko snimanje Deπpaljevih preradbi Bachovih skladbi za violonËelo, zar ne? − Nedavno sam za πpanjolsku diskografsku kuÊu Eudora Records snimio Deπpaljeve preradbe svih ©est suita za violonËelo solo Johanna Sebastiana Bacha. To mi je − i na osobnoj i na profesionalnoj razini − najvaænije dosadaπnje postignuÊe. Jedna od esencijalnih vrijednosti koju æelim predstaviti na ovome diskografskom izdanju jest kvaliteta i suptilnost Deπpaljevih obradbi. Deπpaljevo aranæersko majstorstvo − utemeljeno na njegovoj nepogreπivoj intuiciji te na dubinskome poznavanju Bachova opusa − jedinstveno je po koautorskoj nadogradnji kontrapunkta, ali i po tretmanu instrumentalnog virtuoziteta posve prilagoenoga gitari.

ObraivaËki zahvati Valtera Deπpalja, koji je na ovim suitama radio puna tri desetljeÊa, pomno su promiπljeni i filigranski cizelirani: u svojoj odgovornosti prema Bachovu izvorniku on je svaki ton svoje preradbe preispitao tisuÊu puta. Veoma je teπko ovaj Bachov delikatni violonËelistiËki opus prenositi u medij gitare, no Deπpalj je − svojim ozbiljnim i ujedno zaigranim pristupom − postigao savrπen rezultat koji je uistinu dostojan Bachova genijalnog izvornika.

Gitaristima se doista posreÊilo πto u istome gradu godinama æivi dobro ugoeni glazbeni dvojac: silno svestrani violonËelist Valter Deπpalj i jedinstveni gitarist Darko Petrinjak.

Blagodat što sam mogao uËiti od te dvojice velikih glazbenika, a sada s njima gotovo ravnopravno umjetniËki suraivati, jedino mogu temeljiti na tome πto sam imao tu sreÊu da svoje afirmativne glazbeniËke godine proæivim upravo u Zagrebu.

■ Nakon svakog koncerta Vaπ zavrπni naklon uvijek je rezerviran za visoko, ponosno uzdignutu gitaru. To je osobita poruka, zar ne? − Gitara je veoma plemenito, lijepo i nadasve karakteristiËno glazbalo. Taj zvuk!... Kratak, ali prekrasan poput ptiËjeg pjeva, kako bi to rekao profesor Sahatxhija. Ljepota koja se kadikad dogodi na mojim koncertima izvire iz same gitare; moja je pak zadaÊa da je na pravi naËin dodirnem i to iz nje izvuËem. Na kraju svakog koncerta visoko podiæem svoju gitaru, jer pljesak publike i njoj je itekako upuÊen; kada CROATIA AIRLINES

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bih imao slobodne ruke, i ja bih joj zapljeskao − katkad me zaista zadivi!

■ Glazba duhovno obogaÊuje pojedinca, no moæe li ona oplemeniti i πiru druπtvenu zajednicu te tako pospjeπiti pribliæavanje nepomirljivo suprotstavljenih naroda? U tome smislu ohrabrujuÊa su nastojanja maestra Daniela Barenboima i njegova West-Easter Divan Orchestra, u kojemu zdruæeno muziciraju mladi glazbenici razliËitih bliskoistoËnih nacionalnosti, a tu je takoer i sjajan venezuelski projekt El Sistema. − Svoju silnu moÊ glazba temelji na harmoniji, a to je suæivot razliËitih intonacija u isto vrijeme; one se naizgled slobodno kreÊu, a zapravo su podreene zakonitostima viπeg reda − skladu zajedniËkog zvuka.

Taj svjetomijenjajuÊi potencijal glazbe vrlo je zamjetan veÊ u Bachovim Pasijama, a u Beethovenovoj Devetoj simfoniji on postaje dominantnim obiljeæjem. Glazba je, po sebi, uzoran primjer koegzistencije razliËitih kultura. Primjerice: pod njemaËkim tekstom O Freunde, nichts diese Töne!, svi Beethovenovi naputci izvoaËima upisani su na talijanskom jeziku, a pritom u orkestru grme francuski i engleski rogovi!... U remek-djelima simfonijskog repertoara stapaju se razliËite kulture i opuπtaju napetosti, pa tako glazbenici razliËitih (ponekad i zaraÊenih) nacija preko glazbe mogu postati dijelom viπe harmonije.

Izraelsko-palestinski orkestar maestra Barenboima i venezuelski Orkestar Simon Bolivar doista su promijenili svjetonazore i æivotnu svakodnevicu mnogih mladih ljudi, a upravo ta dimenzija glazbe u savrπenome je kontrapunktu s njezinom duhovnom dimenzijom, koju rijeËima nije moguÊe opisati.

■ U kojemu biste se gradu najradije trajno skrasili, ili ste moæda nepopravljiva skitnica? − Odabrao bih Samobor, idiliËni gradiÊ nadomak Zagreba. Ondje bih za publiku svirao samo jedanput u godini, i to na festivalu Samoborska glazbena jesen. A od svojih basnoslovnih honorara u Samoboru sagradio bih koncertnu dvoranu! (smijeh) ■ Jeste li ikad svirali na gitari svojim suputnicima u nekome od zrakoplova i ako joπ niste, biste li se odazvali takvoj moæebitnoj molbi, primjerice, letaËkog osoblja Croatia Airlinesa. Moæda bi to bio dobar poËetak novog projekta Slava glazbi na visini?! − Uvelike zavidim pjevaËu Massimu, kojemu se to ostvarilo. Zaista bih volio svirati u zraku, jer gore, na nebu, sve je tako posebno. PreporuËujem se Croatia Airlinesu za mali nebeski koncert u slavu Glazbe na visini! .

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he power of his musical mastery and his incredible suggestiveness as a musician are almost hypnotic; Petrit Çeku knows how to convey his fascination with music to his listeners who, having attended one of his missionary concerts, leave as converts of sorts.

■ Mr. Çeku, you left your native Prizren as a teenager, and formed both as a man and a musician in Zagreb, after which you spent a couple of years in Baltimore training. You have recently settled in Berlin, from where you start your tours and concert trips in both hemispheres using either your Kosovar or Croatian passport.

Although you have been destined to live a cosmopolitan life of a musical nomad, I’ll nevertheless ask you which, Prizren or Zagreb, is closest to your heart and − do you suffer from nostalgia? − I take nostalgia with me to all my travels, alongside a suitcase and a guitar as hand luggage. Preparing and making solo concerts happen also means loneliness, but this is a special kind of loneliness, like the one on stage.

While I’m practising, waiting for planes or trains, while I’m traveling or waiting for a concert to begin − I’m always alone. Of course, this loneliness I’ve been destined for is a very fertile ground for nostalgia, a longing for an imaginary home... What is comforting in all this is that my travels often take me back to two of the most important cities of mine − Prizren, my place of birth, and Zagreb, my place of revival. These returns, even when they’re very short, literally revive me, because I can check my human reflection only when surrounded by people who are close to me, only when the ground beneath my feet is mine. But, given that in my life at present these healing days of my returns are less frequent, nostalgia and melancholy − both of which I actually love − often keep me company. Of all the words of this world, my favourite is the Portuguese saudade, which stands for an actually inexpressible fusion of the feelings of sadness, melancholy, longing...

■ You were given your first guitar lessons by your father, who died prematurely, although he did get to see you affirm yourself professionally... − My father not only introduced me to the guitar, but also taught me those core values that I still search for in music. He built this ideal of a smart musician who reflects on each of his interpretations, even when improvising. This is an important fundament for an interpreter of classical music, who must − in addition to everything else − indeed be a musical thinker.

While you’re studying and practising a piece of music, you have to make a lot of decisions.

Only when you identify and compare all the interpretation options available, only then does the process of ruthless selection and an around-the-clock search for the best solutions begin. This process lasts up to the concert, at which you have to draw out the very core of the preparatory work you’ve done, which should ultimately result in the impression that the interpretation is given birth to there on the stage, at that very moment, like a spontaneous improvisation. Such was my father: smart and thoughtful, but also spontaneous and unburdened.

■ You matured both as a man and a musician in Zagreb. Although you have often been asked about this, please give us one of your variations on the unavoidable question of: Petrit Çeku and Zagreb? − Of all the cities, my favourite is Zagreb. I experience it like a living creature, very dear and generous. Of course, I idealised Zagreb long before I came to Zagreb, considering that, because of its great guitarists and brilliant teachers, Zagreb is a very attractive and indeed globally relevant centre for my profession. Having been introduced to the prominent guitarist Xhevdet Sahatxhija from Zagreb alone seemed surreal. And when I played a short piece to my future teacher and when he suggested that I join his Zagreb guitar class, I really did think that everything that was happening only in my dreams. My life transition from the small town of Prizren to Zagreb went really smoothly. From that time, when I first started learning the Croatian language, I remember gladly some of the many pearls I’d say, and so my Croatian variant referred to the Czechs as Checks?!... (laughter)... Thanks to the generosity of many kind people, my teachers and newfound friends, I took root quickly in Zagreb, settling down in the home of the Cernogoraz family, who have been friends with my family in Prizren for sixty years.

I will never forget those wonderful days!... Oh, and one more important thing: I perceive the concert audience of Zagreb as a chamber orchestra that plays my recitals together with me! Which is why I kept returning regularly to Zagreb and its concert audience, even when I lived in America.

■ After your studies in Zagreb in the class of Darko Petrinjak, you trained professionally in Baltimore with the world-famous guitarist Manuel Barrueco, which can’t have been a matter of random choice?... − Manuel Barrueco is the epitome of a thoughtful, responsible musician, which is how I’ve always imagined him. He is an artist who knows no compromise! Of course, Barrueco is aware of his enormous influence on the world of guitar playing as such, but what is

more important than his self-confidence as a musician is his artistic conscientiousness, which has been the strongest driving force behind his continued musical ascent. What I am particularly happy about concerning Manuel Barrueco and a few other guitarists of his generation, including Darko Petrinjak, is the fact that the music world bears witness, for the first time, to the true mastery of several older-generation guitarists who are only and irreversibly getting − better and better! I recently attended Barrueco’s concert in Istanbul. The unimaginably high level of his guitar playing transcends everything I’ve heard so far. I am deeply honoured to have had the privilege of studying with Maestro Barrueco.

■ Having travelled the world, you have met different audiences. I imagine it is not the same whether you’re playing in Spain, the birthplace of the guitar, or, for example, in St. Petersburg? Do you, in some way, adapt to the specificities of different audiences? − In music, I always try to be true to myself, although I must say that I am obviously genetically prone to social adjustment. In lengthy conversations, I spontaneously switch to the dialect of the person I am talking with, even though I know that my linguistic adjustments are sometimes very funny to native speakers of a certain dialect. This is what my grandmother regularly does, I inherited this from her... To some extent, this is also what happens in music: sensing the uniqueness of an audience, I simply cannot resist making small adjustments to the temperament of my music, and I achieve this by nuancing accents and the tempo differently. Of course, I persist in my view that all this should be kept to a minimum, particularly when it comes to a classical repertoire. I’m a big supporter of the idea that music too should become an indispensable part of a general education programme, such as mathematics or history. I would like to live in a world where everyone knows the meaning of the terms Neapolitan sixth chord or the Mannheim Rocket in the same way that they know what the terms, for example, square root or Trojan horse refer to.

■ You often perform in chamber ensembles, and your guitar Trio Elogio is a constant in this sense. In this trio you’ve play for years with your prominent colleagues and true friends − the Portuguese Pedro Ribeiro Rodrigues and the Croatian Tomislav VukπiÊ. What does this Zagreb guitar trilateral mean to you? − Trio Elogio is actually a glorious way of having fun and the most beautiful way of socialising with your best friends. Our rehearsals and CROATIA AIRLINES

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given the unique opportunity to be taught by and to learn from these two great musicians, and to now be able to work with them almost on a par, as equals. And this is all thanks to the fact that I had the good fortune to live here in Zagreb while I was forming musically.

■ After each concert, the final bow you give is always in the form of raising your guitar highly and proudly. This is a special message, isn’t it? − The guitar is a very noble, beautiful and highly characteristic musical instrument. That sound!... Short, yet as beautiful as birdsong, as Professor Sahatxhija would say. The beauty that sometimes happens at my concerts rises from the guitar itself. My task is to touch it the right way and bring this beauty out from it.

At the end of each concert, I raise my guitar high because the audience applaud the guitar as well. If my hands were free, I would applaud the guitar myself − sometimes it truly amazes me!

■ Music enriches the individual spiritually, but can it also enrich the wider community and so facilitate the convergence of nations that are irreconcilably opposed? In this sense, the efforts of maestro Daniel Barenboim and his West-Eastern Divan Orchestra, in which young musicians of different Middle Eastern origin play jointly side by side, and the brilliant Venezuelan project El Sistema are encouraging... − Music owes its tremendous power to harmony, which is the co-existence of different intonations at the same time. It seems as if they move about freely, but are in fact subject to a law of a higher order − the harmony of a common sound. This world-changing potential of music is discernible already in Bach’s Passions, and in Beethoven’s Symphony No. 9

it becomes the dominant element. Music is, in itself, a prime example of the coexistence of different cultures. For example, in the German text O Freunde, nichts diese Töne!, all of Beethoven’s instructions to the performers are written in the Italian language, while the orchestra roars French and English horns!...

Symphonic masterpieces fuse different cultures and ease tensions, and so musicians of different (often even warring) nations can, through music, become part of a higher harmony. Maestro Barenboim’s Israeli-Palestinian orchestra and the Venezuelan Simon Bolivar Orchestra have really transformed the worldviews and everyday life of many young people, and it is exactly this dimension of music that perfectly counterpoints its spiritual dimension, which cannot be described in words.

■ Mr. Çeku, in what city would you most like to settle down permanently, or are you perhaps an incorrigible nomad? − I would choose Samobor, an idyllic little town near Zagreb. There, I would play for the audience only once a year, and that at the Samobor Autumn Music Festival. And from the fabulous fees I get, I’d build a concert hall in Samobor!... (laughter)...

■ Have you ever played the guitar to your fellow passengers in an aircraft, and − if you haven’t yet − would you ever respond to such a request made by, for example, the cabin crew of Croatia Airlines? Maybe that could be a good start of a new project Glory to Music in the Highest?! − I envy very much the singer Massimo, whom this has happened to. I’d like to play in the air, as up there, in the sky − everything is so very special. I do recommend having a small celestial concert to Croatia Airlines in honour of Music in the highest!

■

Kaltrina Krasniqi

concerts flow, they are natural, almost as casual as jazz. As musicians, we know each other well, and even though we’ve played together for only about seven years, we already have a special, distinctive sound. The majority of our repertoire consists of original pieces or transcriptions done for the extraordinary Zagreb Guitar Trio, which marked its thirtieth anniversary last year. What I find particularly attractive about playing in such a band is the auditory space which is challengingly widened, all of which is enabled by the combination of three guitars. This, in turn, increases the possibility of transcribing piano, chamber and even orchestral scores written by great composers for the guitar, because little can be meaningfully transcribed for a single guitar, while there’s no end to what can be done for three guitars!

After all, even the piano wizard Frédéric Chopin once said: Nothing is more beautiful than a guitar, except maybe two guitars. What I’d like to add to this is that three guitars are then an ideal number.

■ The artistic result of guitar transcriptions can sometimes be very questionable, but not in the case of two superb music transcribers from Zagreb, Darko Petrinjak and Valter Deπpalj. You have recently finished a studio recording of Deπpalj’s transcriptions of Bach’s cello suites, haven’t you? − I have recently recorded Deπpalj’s transcriptions of all Six Suites for Unaccompanied Cello

by Johann Sebastian Bach for the Spanish Eudora Records. This is − both personally and professionally − my greatest achievement so far. One of the essential values that I would like to promote with this record is the quality and subtlety of Deπpalj’s transcriptions. His arrangement mastery − based on his infallible intuition and in-depth knowledge of Bach’s oeuvre − is unique because of his co-authorial counterpoint upgrade, as well as because of his treatment of instrumental virtuosity tailored entirely for the guitar.

Having worked on these suite transcriptions for three decades, Deπpalj’s transcription interventions have been carefully thought out and ultimately refined: in his responsibility to Bach’s original, he re-examined each tone of his transcriptions a thousand times.

It is very difficult to transcribe Bach’s delicate cello suites for the guitar, but the result that Deπpalj has achieved − with his serious and at the same time playful approach − is perfect and truly worthy of Bach’s ingenious original.

Guitarists are truly lucky in that a well-tuned-in musical duo has lived in the same city for years: Valter Deπpalj, an enormously versatile cellist, and Darko Petrinjak, a unique guitarist. I was

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The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.

To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËnu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2011. godine, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima.

Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka.

Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica − kuna.

Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje.

Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. prosinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine.

Hrvatska je od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica Europske unije.

This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. According to the 2011 census, Croatia’s population was 4,284,889. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs.

There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited.

The official language is Croatian, and the official script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna.

The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center.

The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992.

Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013.

Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet).

Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova.

National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, 14

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Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima iz svih razdoblja, zbog burnih povijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja razliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karakteriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakralna baπtina te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeuropskoga kultur nog kruga i istiËe se mnogim prapovijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka.

Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku.

Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine.

A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of influences of different cultures. Its coast is characterized by the influences of Mediterranean culture, nu me ro us an ci ent re ma ins, mo nu men ts of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era.

Three Croatian cities and two monumental com-plexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − najveÊe turistiËko iznenaenje te hit-odrediπte na Sredozemlju.

Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, priobalje te kontinentalni dio zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u 2014. godini u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima zabilježili su 13,128.416 turista, od kojih je stranih 10,948.366.

Turisti su ostvarili u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima 66,483.948 noÊenja.

Hoteli, turistiËka naselja i apartmani, hosteli, kampovi, sobe i apartmani u kuÊanstvima te ostale vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim standardima. Bogata je kulturna ponuda, kongresna i wellnes ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, charter ponuda (iznajmljivanje plovila za razonodu i sport), kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih i biciklistiËkih staza, vinske ceste, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti…

Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja, nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluau toce sta Hrvatska je bliæa ne go ikad.

Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajek tom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od svakodnevice miljama i miljama daleko...

Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has be en a hit de stination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international exper ts in tourism.

According to data from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, the Croatian tourist destinations located on the islands, along the coast and in the continental part of the country, including the capital city of Zagreb, recorded about 13.13 million tourists in commercial accommodation facilities in 2014, of whom around 10.95 million were foreign tourists.

Tourists realized 66,483,948 overnight stays.

Hotels, tourist villages and apartments, hostels, camps, rooms and apartments in private homes and other forms of accommodation, such as modern nautical centres, are equipped in line with international standards.

There is a rich cultural offer, together with the congress and wellness offer, sport-recreation and entertainment contents, the charter offer (renting sailing vessels for leisure and sport), many kilometres of well-groomed walking and cycling paths, wine roads, sightseeing

excursions that include natural and cultural treasures...

Novac i naËin plaÊanja Ku na je na ziv novËa ne je di ni ce Re pu bli ke Hrvatske.

U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp). NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima − 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac − 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima.

Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Ku na (kn).

In cir cu la ti on are ban knotes in Ku na and co ins in Ku na and Li pa (lp) ∑ one hun dredth of a Ku na. The ban knotes are issu ed in the fol lo wing de no mi na ti ons: 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Ku na, whi le the de no mi na ti on struc tu re of the co ins is 1, 2 and 5 Ku na and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Li pa (100 Li pa = 1 Ku na). Pay men ts can be made by cre dit card (Di ners, Vi sa, Ame ri can Ex pre ss, Eu ro card and Ma stercard), as well as eu ro-chec ks. Ca sh can be wit hdrawn from AT Ms.

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalne / regular sezonske ljetne / seasonal in summer

motorway, fast roads toll station tunnel, bridge other main roads national parks nature parks international border crossing petrol stations (0-24) airports ferry routes UNESCO World Heritage CROATIA AIRLINES

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ARHITEKTURA ARCHITECTURE

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Gradnja crkve sv. Blaæa na Prilazu Gjure DeæeliÊa 64 u Zagrebu poËela je 1912. godine, prema nagraenome natjeËajnom projektu velikoga hrvatskog arhitekta Viktora KovaËiÊa, kao centralna dvorana u obliku grËkog kriæa s armiranobetonskom kupolom na tamburu s pandantivima. Graevinski je dovrπena i blagoslovljena prije sto godina, na Cvjetnu nedjelju, 28. oæujka 1915. godine.

The construction of the Church of St. Blaise at 64, Prilaz Gjure DeæeliÊa Street, in Zagreb, started in 1912 from a prize-winning design by great Croatian architect Viktor KovaËiÊ. Its central hall was in the shape of a Greek cross with a reinforced concrete dome on a tambour with pendentives. The construction work was completed Piše/By Željko KovaËiÊ Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

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rkva sv. Blaæa kljuËni je objekt hrvatske moderne arhitekture.

Neπto zbog tadaπnjih ratnih prilika, neπto zbog smjenjivanja Viktora KovaËiÊa s voenja gradnje, unutraπnjost crkve nije do danas bila dovrπena.

Godine 1930. izveden je glavni oltar prema projektu Stjepana Hribara i Ive KerdiÊa. Pokrajnji oltar Majke Boæje izveden je 1942., a oltar Presvetog Srca Isusova godinu dana poslije, prema projektu Stjepana Hribara.

Nacrte za mozaike napravio je Ljubo BabiÊ, a reljefe Ivo KerdiÊ. Jaslice je izveo Vojta Braniπ 1916., i pri tome uspio ostvariti njihov novi tip ∑ hrvatske boæiÊne jaslice. Crkvene su klupe izvedene od hrastovine 1925. godine, prema

and the church was consecrated 100 years ago on Palm Sunday 28 March, 1915. nacrtima arh. Viktora KovaËiÊa, a ispovjedaonice 1932. godine takoer od hrastovine, prema nacrtu Stjepana Hribara.

I gotovo niπta nakon toga do danas, osim bojenja zidova i svodova za pedesetogodiπnjicu 1965. godine.

Joπ 1983. godine pozvao me tadaπnji æupnik Danijel Labaπ sa æeljom da se neπto napravi na dovrπenju interijera. Od mnogih razgovora bila je prema mojem projektu izvedena tek sanacija velikih, boËnih prozora crkve.

Godine 1995. bio je raspisan NatjeËaj za izradu idejnog rjeπenja ureenja unutraπnjosti crkve sv. Blaæa, na kojemu se, prema jednoglasnoj odluci æirija, I., II., III. nagrada ne dodjeljuju.

Kada se govori o crkvi sv. Blaæa arhitekta Viktora KovaËiÊa, spominju se uzori i paralele s bizantskom ili starohrvatskom, romaniËkom arhitekturom. Krπnjavi je u vrijeme rasprava o tome u kojem slogu da se gradi, zazivao stil renesanse, kao vaæniji i bliæi, jer u doba renesanse cvala je hrvatska umjetnost s Jurjem Dalmatincom i Laureanom. Pogledamo li proËelja crkve, vidjet Êemo da, kao kod renesansnih firentinskih palaËa Medici, Strozzi, intenzitet rustiËnosti opada s visinom: dolje rustiËne bunje, iznad æbuka i na kraju bakreni lim na krovovima i kupolama.

Ta trodijelnost, s naglaπenim vijencima, vidljiva je i u interijeru, a prema skicama vidimo da je V. KovaËiÊ namjeravao u tri sloja izvesti interijer:

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grubo kameno oploËenje do prvog vijenca, izmeu prvoga i drugog mozaici, treÊa zona znatno prozraËnija, s ponekom freskom.

Osim πto je eklektik, ali u pozitivnom smislu, V. KovaËiÊ je i modernist. Pratio je zbivanja, pa je zacijelo znao i za crkvu svog profesora Otte Wagnera na Steinhofu, sagraenu 1905.−1907., neposredno prije natjeËaja za crkvu sv. Blaæa. Ima nekih sliËnosti u tlocrtu, oblikovanju ugaonih stubova, prozorskih luneta. I Wagner radi troslojan eksterijer i interijer.

Neka od ovih iskustava pokuπao sam primijeniti u projektu interijera crkve sv. Blaæa. Svi arhitekti i umjetnici koji su do danas neπto izveli u interijeru Sv. Blaæa, kako piπe u monografiji u povodu 50. godiπnjice crkve, slijedili su intenciju Viktora KovaËiÊa.

Stoga sam i ja mislio da je ispravno slijediti ideje Viktora KovaËiÊa, u onom dijelu u kojem postoje podatci, pa sam detaljno iπËitavao sve dostupne njegove nacrte, skice kojih baπ i nema mnogo saËuvanih.

U prvoj fazi obnove ureeno je samo svetiπte crkve.

Kod jednoga od prvih obilazaka crkve pronaπao sam na tavanu kolorirani nacrt glavnog oltara V. KovaËiÊa, na kojemu su iznad prvog vijenca u parovima po dva apostola u okviru s polukruænom lunetom, razdvojeni vazama iz kojih izlaze palme s grozdovima plodova.

Prema toj shemi V. KovaËiÊa izvedena su dvanaestorica apostola, ali bez okvira, samo parovi likova, oslikani na drvenoj ploËi, izrezani po silueti, oslonjeni na kameni vijenac, malo odmaknuti od zida, sa svjetlom iza, koje prosvjetljava oko siluete likove. Prof. Zlatko KauzlariÊ−AtaË, koji se u svojoj slikarskoj tehnici koristi naglaπenim linijama, bio je za mene pravi odabir koji Êe spojiti vrijeme nastanka crkve s danaπnjicom.

Palme su izmeu apostola trodimenzionalne, s liπÊem od mjedenog lima s grozdovima datulja, stabljikom od keramike i vazom od mjedi u kojoj je skrivena dodatna rasvjeta za osvjetljavanje prednje plohe apostola i palmi.

To sve je napravio doc. Alen Novoselec.

U monografi ji Viktora KovaËiÊa, u izdanju Ede ©ena iz 1927. godine, nalaze se i dvije fotografije unutraπnjosti crkve sv. Blaæa. Na jednoj od njih je pogled prema svetiπtu i vide se tri otvora u apsidi, dva kruæna sa strane i jedan osmerokutni u sredini, koji su vjerojatno tridesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa bili zazidani.

Otvorio sam ponovno te zazidane otvore i uËinilo mi se da je to idealno mjesto za prikaze iz æivota sv. Blaæa ∑ kako znakom kriæa spaπava dijete od guπenja, sv. Blaæ s biskupskim πtapom, on u peÊini propovijeda divljim æivotinjama. Æelio sam likovni pomak 18

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i akademik Zlatko Keser pokazao se kao najbolji odabir za izradu predloæaka za vitraje.

Iznad otvora dodane su joπ rijeËi sv. Blaæa, koje je izrekao rimskom namjesniku Agricolosu kada ga je traæio da se odrekne krπÊanske vjere: kako moæe oko, koje je ugledalo svjetlo, opet uzljubiti tminu?

Tip je slova u pismu kakvim je Viktor KovaËiÊ opisivao naslove na svome glavnom projektu crkve, a izveden u mozaiku.

U konhi apside, iznad drugog vijenca, Viktor KovaËiÊ u glavnom je projektu nacrtao Krista Pantokratora. Samo crteæ uËinio mi se dovoljan pa sam zamolio prof. Tomislava Buntaka, koji se uglavnom izraæava crteæom, da napravi Krista samo u linijama zlatnih i srebrnih mozaiËkih ploËica.

BoËne trifore dobile su nove okvire od paljenog inoksa, koji su u gornjem dijelu fiksno ostakljeni izo staklom, a dolje lamelni prozori s daljinskim otvaranjem za provjetravanje.

Na temelju skica i nacrta iz natjeËajnog projekta V. KovaËiÊa, do prvog vijenca (na visini 340 cm od poda crkve) na boËnim zidovima svetiπta napravio sam shemu za kamenu obloga od ploËa Travertina noce u kombinaciji poliranih traka i veÊih ploËa u antiko obradi.

Prvi je vijenac imao obojeni uzorak meandra, koji je zamijenjen meandrom od viπebojnih i zlatnih smalta, koji veliËinom, bojama, duktusom povrπine sliËi postojeÊim mozaicima na pomoÊnim oltarima. Suradnik na svim mozaicima bio je prof. Milun GarËeviÊ.

Na zidovima i svodovima akustiËka je æbuka koja svojom grubom, πpricanom strukturom, osim oblikovanja interijera, ima za cilj i poboljπanje akustiËnih karakteristika crkve.

Izmeu prvoga i drugog vijenca, na boËnim zidovima, izveden je raster dijagonalno postavljenih rombova od linija zlatnih smalta debljine 2 cm, kao reminiscencija na velike mozaiËke plohe s liturgijskim prizorima koje je Viktor æelio napraviti u toj zoni, ili na bljeπtave linije s proËelja njegove kuÊe u Masarykovoj 21 − 23. Tek poslije, kad je veÊ to bilo izvedeno, doπao sam do fotografije sudnice u PalaËi Burze, u kojoj je Viktor KovaËiÊ napravio na svodu gotovo isti uzorak.

Nova oltarska grupa Prema obnovljenoj liturgiji izvedena je nova oltarska grupa, koja je postavljena na podest što je za dvije stube podignut u odnosu na stari pod svetiπta. OploËen je πahovskim uzorkom kamenih ploËa Portoro Extra Vene Larga i Alpenina Clara, s bordurom od crnog kamena. Na podestu su oltar, dva ambona i sedes. Novi su elementi oblikovani kao masivni gabariti bez ukrasa, koji govore materijalom u kojemu su izvedeni, tako da tvore cjelinu

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naspram starom oltaru i njegovoj pozadini.

Novi je oltar smjeπten centralno, u osi postojeÊega, od kamena Opera Fantastica, koji u sebi sjedinjuje sve boje koje su veÊ ugraene.

Masivna ploËa stola postavljena je na dvanaest nogu i simbolizira jedinstvo Krista i dvanaest apostola na Posljednjoj veËeri − prvoj misi.

Oltar je poloæen na okruglu ploËu promjera 5 metara od inoks lima, koja konzolno izlazi u prostor vjernika, kao plitica na kojoj sveÊenik, za vrijeme mise, pokazuje Tijelo Kristovo.

Krug te ploËe replicira, u malome, tlocrtni oblik kupole, i doimlje se kao njezina refleksija. On je i aureola oko oltara. U inoks ploËi upuπteno je dvanaest krugova od mesing lima ∑ kao ponovni simbol za dvanaest apostola.

Zapadni, prvi ambon, kao nekadaπnja propovjedaonica, ulazi meu puk te je, kao πto su one bile, oblikovan kao zatvoreni istak od debelih ploËa kamena Giallo Dalmatia.

Drugi, istoËni ambon, uza sedes, manje je reprezentativan, pokretan je i izveden od masiva hrastovine.

Sedes je napravljen takoer od masivne hrastovine kao jednostavna klupa, s naglaπenim, izdvojenim rukonaslonom i poviπenim leima, sjedalicom u sredini za predvoditelja misnog slavlja. Detalji spojeva uzeti su iz tradicijske hrvatske drvene arhitekture.

Za glavno osvjetljenje crkve imao sam nekoliko projekata razliËitih visilica, a na kraju sam se odluËio za adaptaciju postojeÊih fragilnih drvenih lustera, za koje nije nigdje zapisano, ali meni se Ëini da bi mogli biti takoer dizajn Viktora KovaËiÊa.

U projektu obnove crkve sv. Blaæa, oca moderne, kako katkad nazivaju Viktora KovaËiÊa, radio sam s poπtovanjem prema njemu, ali sa svojom interpretacijom njegovih elemenata i dodatkom novih u mom suglasju. Æelio sam nastaviti, a ne poËeti iznova. .

T

he Church of St. Blaise is a key monument in the history of modern Croatian architecture.

The interior was not finished at the same time, partly due to the war, and partly to the fact that Viktor KovaËiÊ lost his position as chief construction leader.

In 1939, the main altar was constructed based on designs by Stjepan Hribar and Ivo KerdiÊ. The side altar of Our Lady was constructed in 1942, while the altar of the Sacred Heart of Jesus was completed a year later.

Ljubo BabiÊ was the artist responsible for the mosaics while Ivo KerdiÊ designed the reliefs.

The nativity scene, designed by Vojta Braniπ in 1916, was an entirely new take on the way the event was traditionally depicted and resulted

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in a new, Croatian nativity scene. The church pews were made out of oak in 1925, based on a design from architect Viktor KovaËiÊ, while the confessional boxes were designed in 1932 by Stjepan Hribar.

After that, virtually nothing was done to the church, apart from repainting the walls and vaulted ceilings on the church’s 50th anniversary in 1965.

In 1983, the then-rector, Danijel Labaπ, approached me and said that he wished to see the interior of the church completed. After hours of consultation, only the side church windows were repaired the way I had wanted them designed.

In 1995, there was a public tender to finish the interior of the Church of St. Blaise. The jury was unanimous in their decision not to assign any awards to the submitted designs.

Viktor KovaËiÊ’s Church of St. Blaise is often compared to Byzantine and old Croatian Romanic architecture. At the time when the style of the future church was being discussed, Krπnjavi was in favour of the Renaissance style, finding it a more important and relevant style, the idea being that Croatian art flourished during the Renaissance period with Juraj Dalmatinac and Laureana. A closer look at the church façade reveals that the intensity of the rustic style diminishes its height just as it does on the Medici and Strozzi Renaissance palaces in Florence. The rustic ashlars at the bottom were replaced by washed mortar one level up, while copper sheets covered the roofs and the domes at the very top. The same three-tiered approach with pronounced cornices can be observed inside the church as well. As we study the architect’s design, we can see that V. KovaËiÊ had intended to give the church interior three distinctly different layers: a tiled look, in coarse stone, up to the first cornice, mosaics between the first and second cornices, while the third zone was to be of a much more airy aspect with an occasional fresco painting here and there.

Besides being an eclectic, in the positive sense of the word, V. KovaËiÊ was also a true representative of modern art. He followed the developments and must have been aware of the church designed in Steinhof, by his professor Otto Wagner, which was developed from 1905 to 1907, immediately before the public tender for the Church of St. Blaise was published.

There are some similarities in the ground plans of the two churches, and in the design of the corner pillars and window lunettes. Wagner’s design of both the exterior and the interior was also three-tiered.

I have tried to apply some of these experiences to my own project as it relates to the interior of

St. Blaise. As one can read in the monograph, published on the church’s 50th anniversary, all the architects and artists who had been commissioned to work on the interior followed Viktor KovaËiÊ’s intention.

Therefore, I also believed that it was only fair to follow Viktor KovaËiÊ’s ideas, in as much as the information existed. That is why I started by doing a thorough study of all the available designs and drawings, of which not much has been preserved.

During the first restoration phase, only the church sanctuary was completed. On one of my first visits to the church, I went up to the attic where I found a coloured drawing of the main altar, made by V. KovaËiÊ himself.

Above the first cornice, there were framed pairs of apostles with a semi-lunar lunette.

They were separated by vases with palms full of fruit growing out of them.

The twelve apostles followed the designs of V. KovaËiÊ, but they were not framed. The pairs of figures were painted on a wooden board, which was cut out along their silhouettes, and they were placed leaning against the stone cornice, slightly removed from the wall, with light illuminating the silhouettes. Professor Zlatko KauzlariÊ − AtaË, whose strong lines and painting technique, was to my mind, the best choice for the job; I wanted an artist who could mostly-effectively marry the period when the church was constructed with the present moment.

The palms between the apostles are in a 3-D form, with leaves made out of a brass sheet, with clusters of dates, a ceramic stalk and a brass vase, which hides additional lighting to illuminate the front surface of the apostles and the palms. The whole thing was constructed

by Assistant Professor, Alen Novoselec.

In Viktor KovaËiÊ’s monograph, published in 1927, by Edo ©en, we find two photos depicting the interior of the Church of St. Blaise.

One of them shows a view of the church and three openings in the apse, two circular ones on the side, and one octagonal in the middle.

They were probably all walled up in the mid20th century.

I have reinstated those openings, which seemed an ideal place to position scenes from the life of St. Blaise − one where he makes a sign of a cross and saves a child from suffocation; another depicting St. Blaise with a bishop’s crosier and the saint preaching to wild beasts in a cave. I wanted to make an artistic shift and academician, Zlatko Keser, proved to be the best artist to design the stained-glass windows.

Above the openings, we added the words that St. Blaise uttered before the Roman Governor Agricola after he had demanded CROATIA AIRLINES

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that St. Blaise renounce his Christian faith: How can the eye that has seen light come to love darkness again?

The font is the same as the one Viktor KovaËiÊ used in the titles of his main development project for the church and the letters are made out of this mosaic technique.

Viktor KovaËiÊ’s design features Christ Pantocrator in the hemispherical vault of the apse, above the second cornice. The drawing itself seemed sufficient enough, so I asked Professor Tomislav Buntak, who mostly expresses himself through drawing, to design a figure of Christ using the lines of the gold and silver mosaic plates.

The side trifore windows were given new burnt stainless steel frames. In their upper parts, they have fixed insulated glass panes, whereas their lower parts are made out of louvre windows to act as an air-conditioning system.

I made my own design for the stone wall cover using Travertina noce stone based on the sketches and designs that V. KovaËiÊ submitted to the public tender. I combined strips of polished stone with larger plates that had a more distressed and antiquated surface.

The first cornice featured a coloured meander.

That was replaced with a meander of golden and multi-coloured smalts whose colours and surface ductus resemble the existing mosaics in the side altars. Professor Milun GarËeviÊ was involved in the creation of all the mosaics.

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The acoustic plaster on the walls and vaulted ceilings has a dual purpose: its coarse structure gives the interior a distinct appearance, while it also improves the acoustics in the church.

A pattern of diagonal diamonds, in lines of gold smalt, two centimetres thick, adorn the side walls as a reminder of the large mosaic surfaces featuring liturgical scenes which Victor originally wanted to create in this zone, or the splendid lines on the façade of his house at 21-23, Masarykova Street. Only later, when the decorative work had already been completed, did I come across photos of the Courtroom in the Stock Exchange Palace where Viktor KovaËiÊ used a virtually identical pattern.

New altar group A new altar group was made in accordance with the revised liturgy and placed on an elevated platform which stands two steps taller than the former altar floor. A black and white chequered effect was achieved using Portoro Extra Vene Larga and Alpenina Clara stone with a black stone skirting. The elevated platform features an altar, two ambons and a bishop’s throne. New elements were shaped as massive gabarits without any decorations, which speak only to the materials used in their construction, so that they make a whole in relation to the old altar and its background.

The new altar is centrally positioned within the axis of the existing one. The material used in its construction was Opera Fantastica Stone which features all of the colours seen elsewhere in the church. The massive table board sits on twelve legs and symbolizes the unity of Christ and the twelve apostles during the last supper, i.e., the first mass.

The altar sits on a circular stainless steel plate whose diameter spans 5 metres. Its console enters the congregation space like a diskos on which priests show the Body of Christ during mass. The shape of the plate is a miniature replica of the dome and looks like its reflection. It also works as an aureole around the altar. The stainless steel plate features twelve brass plate circles − a repeated symbol of the twelve apostles.

The first, western ambo, as a former pulpit, protrudes into the area allotted for the people.

As is customary, it is shaped as an enclosed protrusion and made out of thick Giallo Dalmatia stone tiles. The second, eastern ambo, next to the bishop’s throne, is less important in appearance; it is mobile and made out of massive oak.

The material used for the bishop’s throne is massive oak and the throne itself is a simple bench with a separate arm rest and a high back, the seat in the middle being for the leader of the mass. The details of the joints were inspired by traditional Croatian wooden architecture.

As for the central lighting of the church, there were several projects featuring various hanging lamps. Ultimately, I decided to adapt the already existing fragile wooden pendants.

Although no written proof exists, I believe that they, too, were designed by Viktor KovaËiÊ.

I embarked on the renewal project of the Church of St. Blaise, designed by the father of Croatian Moderna, as Viktor KovaËiÊ is sometimes called, with the utmost respect for his work, but I also reinterpreted his elements my own way. I wanted to continue, rather than start again.

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OBALA THE COAST

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Piše/By Davor Žic Fotografije/Photos TuristiËka zajednica Kvarnera

Malena ribarska mjesta i povijesni gradovi smjeπteni zapadno od Opatije i povezani zavojitim cestama urezanima u planinski masiv i okruæeni visokim stoljetnim drveÊem − IËiÊi, Ika, Lovran, MoπÊeniËka Draga, BrseË i MoπÊenice − danas su vrlo traæena turistiËka odredišta meu kojima se svako odlikuje nekom svojom posebnoπÊu. Lovran, Ëiji je dio i plaæa Medveja i majuπno naselje sagraeno oko nje, najstarije je mjesto na rivijeri i jedno od najstarijih mjesta na hrvatskoj obali Jadrana.

Small fishing villages and historical towns located west of Opatija and connected by winding roads carved into the mountain range and surrounded by centuries-old trees - IËiÊi, Ika, Lovran, MoπÊeniËka Draga, BrseË and MoπÊenice − are today, highly desired tourist destinations, each of which is unique in its own way. Lovran, which includes the Medveja Beach and the tiny village built around it, is the oldest town on the riviera and one of the oldest towns on Croatia’s Adriatic coast.

M

oÊna Ëarobnica Medea, kÊi boga sunca Heliosa i æena slavnog Jasona koji je s Argonautima traæio zlatno runo, prije mnogo je godina, lutajuÊi svijetom, naiπla na prekrasnu plaæu kojoj nije mogla odoljeti te se okupala u kristalno Ëistome moru. Vrlo brzo glas o tome mjestu proπirio se diljem tada poznatoga svijeta te je oko njega niknulo æivopisno naselje nazvano po Ëarobnici, a taj se naziv za plaæu i mjesto − Medveja − zadræao do danas. Legenda o

postanku jednoga od naselja na najzapadnijem dijelu obalnog pojasa Hrvatskog primorja nije samo pusta priËa − moæda meu prvim turistima koji su uæivali u skrovitim plaæama i sjenovitim uvalama nije bilo Ëarobnica, ali joπ su Grci i, poslije njih, Rimljani, bili opËinjeni tim uskim pojasom zemlje stijeπnjenim izmeu strmih padina planine UËke i tamnih morskih dubina. Malena ribarska mjesta i povijesni gradovi smjeπteni zapadno od Opatije i povezani zavojitim cestama urezanima u planinski

masiv i okruæeni visokim stoljetnim drveÊem − IËiÊi, Ika, Lovran, MoπÊeniËka Draga, BrseË i MoπÊenice − danas su vrlo traæena turistiËka odredišta meu kojima se svako odlikuje nekom svojom posebnoπÊu. Lovran, Ëiji je dio i plaæa Medveja i majuπno naselje sagraeno oko nje, najstarije je mjesto na rivijeri i jedno od najstarijih mjesta na hrvatskoj obali Jadrana.

Joπ u prvom stoljeÊu prije Krista, odnosno vremenu kada je Gaj Julije Cezar transformirao Rimsku Republiku u Carstvo, podruËje CROATIA AIRLINES

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na kojemu je danas smjeπten gradiÊ od oko Ëetiri tisuÊe stanovnika, za svoju je rezidenciju odabrao rimski patricij, dræavnik, vojskovoa i kartograf Marko Vipsanije Agripa. Ime je Lovran dobio prema lovoru, zaËinskom bilju koje raste uz njegove obale i zbog kojega je joπ u rimsko doba bio poznat kao Laurus, mjesto Ëarobnog spoja aromatiËnog bilja i morskog zraka, što posjetiteljima stvara osobit ugoaj opuπtenosti. Od svojih autohtonih plodova Lovran je izgradio gastronomske brendove i gastromanifestacije koje privlaËe desetke tisuÊa ljudi iz Ëitave Hrvatske i inozemstva. Kasno proljetno vrijeme prolazi u znaku Festivala πparuga, u kojemu sudjeluje dvadesetak restorana i hotela, nudeÊi razne delicije od toga πumskog ploda specifiËnoga gorkog okusa, ljeto obiljeæavaju lovranske Ëreπnji, odnosno treπnje veÊe, soËnije, slae i crvenije od onih koje rastu igdje drugdje, a teπko dostupnim uzvisinama i vrhovima brda, Lovran se razlikuje i po tome πto je njegov stari grad smjeπten na samoj obali − joπ su oËuvane gradske zidine i vrata koja su stoljeÊima πtitila stanovniπtvo πto se uglavnom sastojalo od moreplovaca, trgovaca i brodograditelja hvaljenih zbog svoje vjeπtine, o Ëemu svjedoËi posebna vrsta barke nazvana lovranski guc, kojoj je danas u gradu posveÊena raskoπna muzejska zbirka. Povezanost ljudi s morem, i tradicija moreplovstva i ribarstva, snaæna je i u dvama susjednim naseljima − Iki na istoku i MoπÊeniËkoj Dragi na zapadu, a posveÊenost oËuvanju tog naslijea iznjedrila je i smotre tradicijskih barki na jedra i na vesla, koje se odræavaju u srpnju i kolovozu. FantastiËna su to dogaanja u kojima sudjeluju iskljuËivo drvene barke Ëija bijela jedra razapeta na kvarnerskoj tramontani pruæaju nezaboravan prizor rana jesen, odnosno rujan i listopad, donosi Marunadu − dogaanje s tradicijom dugom gotovo pola stoljeÊa, posveÊeno jedinstvenoj vrsti divljeg kestena koji raste samo u lovranskim πumama na plodnom tlu uËkarskih obronaka. Maruni su se saæivjeli s ovdaπnjom gastronomijom, te ih se moæe naÊi gotovo u svim jelima − od priloga mesnim delicijama do slatkastih deserta − a Marunadu je prije nekoliko godina britanski Guardian uvrstio meu najvaænija europska gastronomska dogaanja. I slavni putopisac Johann Valvasor prepoznao je potkraj 17. stoljeÊa osobitosti lovranskog podruËja, pa je Lovrance hvalio kao vrsne trgovce i moreplovce, ali osobito su ga se dojmili autohtoni plodovi: veliki i slatki maruni, soËne lovranske treπnje i mirisni lovor koji domaÊi ljudi zovu javorikom. Od ostalih povijesnih gradiÊa smjeπtenih uglavnom na 26

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u draπkom akvatoriju, a borba Ëovjeka i prirode πto uvijek zavrπava trijumfom snage ljudskog tijela i duha nadahnjuje brojne gledatelje. Nije more na ovom podruËju utjecalo samo na ljude i narodnu predaju, nego i na prirodu − prekrasna draπka plaæa duga stotinama metara stvarala se iz pijeska draπkoga potoka koji izvire na obroncima UËke, i zaobljenih oblutaka koje su isklesali morski valovi, i jedno je od najljepπih kvarnerskih kupaliπta, koje se svojom ljepotom moæe mjeriti s Medejinom Medvejom u Lovranu. Trolist slavnih plaæa upotpunjuje pjeπËana plaæa u IËiÊima, poznata po brojnim sportskim terenima, zbog Ëega privlaËi kupaËe koji svoj odmor vole provoditi aktivno. Plaæa IËiÊi smjeπtena je kraj ulaza u ACI-jevu marinu, srediπta nautiËkog turizma na Jadranu, a zbog opremljenosti i poloæaja uæiva dobar glas meu nautiËarima i ljubiteljima plovidbe morem.

Ju ž n a It a l i j a , Pu g l i a , Sa l e n t o

www.natuzzi.hr

www.natuzzi.com/dorian

Trgovine Natuzzi: Natuzzi salon Zagreb, Cebini 39, 10010 Zagreb-Buzin, T: 01 665 87 23 Natuzzi salon Rijeka, Bartola Kašića 5/3, Srdoči, 51000 Rijeka T:051 62 50 19

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uski prozori u daleku i blisku proπlost Ëitavog podruËja, povijesne Ëitanke u kojima je bit ispisana na kamenim stubištima i uskim ulicama zbijenima meu proËeljima malih bijelih kuÊa crvenih krovova, balaturama u hladu gusto isprepletene vinove loze i plaæama Ëiji pijesak more miluje tisuÊama godina. Ta priËa koja nastaje stoljeÊima, oæivljava u ljetnim mjesecima, kada kamenim stubištem odjekuju koraci, na balaturama pod vinovom lozom æamore glasovi, a kazaliπta, muzeji, galerije i koncertni prostori nadmeÊu se stotinama programa skrojenih po mjeri svakoga gosta.

Tada raj na zemlji, koji su za sebe odabrali Ëarobnica Medeja, patricij Agripa i putopisac Valvasor, raπirenih ruku doËekuje svakoga novog posjetitelja πto ga prvi put otkriva. .

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any years ago, while wandering the world, the powerful sorceress Medea, daughter of the sun god Helios and wife of the famous Jason who sought the Golden Fleece with the Argonauts, came upon a beautiful beach, and unable to resist, took a bath in the crystal clear sea.

Very soon, news of that place spread across what was then the known world and around it, there arose a picturesque town named after the sorceress; the name of that beach and town − Medveja − still exists today. The legend of how one of the resorts on the westernmost part of the coastal belt of the Croatian Littoral originated is not just a mere tale. There may not have been any sorceresses among the first tourists who enjoyed the secluded beaches and shady coves, but the Greeks, followed by, the Romans, were bewitched by this narrow stretch of land squeezed between the steep slopes of the UËka Mountain and the dark depths of the sea. Small fishing villages and

Dok su mjesta uz more razvijala svoje pomorske vjeπtine, stari gradovi smjeπteni u zaleu svoj su povijesni napredak posvetili razvoju umjetnosti i kulture, Ëiji se vrhunac dogodio ovog proljeÊa u sklopu Festivala neovisnih kazaliπta, kada je u BrseËu otvoreno najmanje kazaliπte na svijetu. Prostorom sa samo 12 mjesta, u gradiÊu smjeπtenome na rubu visoke litice, upravlja Teatar Oz, a samo nekoliko koraka uglanËanim kamenim stubama dalje skriven je ulaz u malu galeriju u kojoj se odræavaju znaËajne meunarodne izloæbe i kojoj posebnu auru daje to što je otvorena u rodnoj kuÊi slavnoga hrvatskog pisca Eugena KumiËiÊa. Uska cesta πto se od BrseËa uspinje planinskim masivom vodi 28

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do MoπÊenica, gradiÊa utvrene stare jezgre uvrπtene u registar hrvatske kulturne baπtine, koji se moæe podiËiti sa Ëak dva svjetska prvenstva. Za Uskrs se tradicionalno odræava natjecanje u picanju jaja, u kojem je cilj s udaljenosti od 2,8 metara kovanicom od jednog eura pogoditi jaje i probiti njegovu ljusku. Ono privuËe stotinu natjecatelja iz regije, ali i ostalih dijelova Hrvatske i inozemstva. DomaÊi i strani posjetitelji u istom se broju tijekom kolovoza okuπavaju u natjecanju u bacanju papirnatih aviona. Vlastite kreacije preko gradskih zidina puπtaju prema moru, a najbolji letovi mogu trajati i nekoliko stotina metara.

Sva ta mjesta uz najzapadniju obalu Kvarnera djeluju kao okamenjene povijesne razglednice,

moments to remember

t +385 51 710 444 reservations@remisens.com • www.remisens.com

historical towns located west of Opatija and connected by winding roads carved into the mountain range and surrounded by centuriesold trees − IËiÊi, Ika, Lovran, MoπÊeniËka Draga, BrseË and MoπÊenice − are today, highly desired tourist destinations, each of which is unique in its own way. Lovran, which includes the Medveja Beach and the tiny village built around it, is the oldest town on the riviera and one of the oldest towns on Croatia’s Adriatic coast. Even in the first century BC, i.e., the time when Julius Caesar transformed the Roman Republic into the Empire, the area where, today, a town of about four thousand inhabitants is located, was chosen by the Roman patrician, statesman, military leader and cartographer, Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa, to be his residence. Lovran was named after laurel, the herb that grows along its shores and which was known as Laurus even in Roman times; it is a place of magical fusion, of aromatic herbs and sea air which creates a particularly relaxing atmosphere for visitors.

Lovran has established several gastronomic brands and initiated gastronomic events based on its indigenous fruits which attract tens of thousands of people from all over Croatia and abroad. The late spring period is marked by the Asparagus Festival, in which

twenty restaurants and hotels take part, offering a variety of delicacies made from this wild fruit with a specific bitter flavour; summer is marked by Lovranski Ëreπnji i.e., cherries that are bigger, juicier, sweeter and redder than those grown elsewhere, while early autumn (September and October), brings Marunada − a traditional event, almost half a century long, which is devoted to a unique type of horse chestnut that grows only in Lovran’s forests on the fertile soil of the slopes of UËka.

Maruni (chestnuts) have become part of the local cuisine, and can be found in almost all dishes − from side dishes that compliment meat delicacies to sweet desserts − and only a few years ago, Marunada was included as one of the most important European gastronomic events by the British Guardian. In the late 17th century, the famous travel writer, Johann Valvasor, also discovered the peculiarities of the Lovran area, so he praised the Lovranians as skilled merchants and sailors, but was particularly impressed by the indigenous fruits: the large and sweet maruni, the juicy Lovran cherries and the fragrant laurel, which the local people call javorika. Lovran differs from other historical towns located mainly on inaccessible hills and mountain peaks in that its old town is situated on the CROATIA AIRLINES

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coast. Still well-preserved are the city walls and gates, which had for centuries protected the population − mainly sailors, merchants and shipbuilders. These shipbuilders were praised for their skills, as evidenced by a special type of boat called the Lovran Guc for which there is a rich museum collection dedicated to it in the town today. The connection of people with the sea, and the tradition of seafaring and fishing are also strong in the neighboring villages: Ika in the east and MoπÊeniËka Draga in the west. A commitment to preserve this heritage has produced parades featuring traditional sailboats and rowboats, which are held in July and August. These are fantastic events which include only wooden boats 30

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whose white sails stretched out in Kvarner’s tramontana provide an unforgettable view in MoπÊeniËka Draga’s aquatorium, and the battle between man and nature, which always ends in triumph on the side of the human body and spirit, inspires numerous visitors.

The sea in this area has not only affected the people and the folk tradition, but also nature itself − the beautiful MoπÊeniËka Draga Beach, hundreds of metres long, was created out of sand from Draπki Potok, a mountain stream, which comes from the slopes of UËka, and its pebbles, rounded by sea waves is one of the most beautiful beaches in Kvarner; its beauty can be compared to that of Medea’s Medveja in Lovran. The famous beach trio is

made complete by the sandy beach in IËiÊi, known for its numerous sports fields which attract swimmers who like to be active while on holiday. The IËiÊi Beach is located near the entrance to the ACI Marina, the centre of nautical tourism on the Adriatic coast which, thanks to its equipment and position, enjoys a good reputation among sailors and sailing enthusiasts.

While the villages along the sea developed their maritime skills, old towns located in the hinterland devoted their historical progress to the development of art and culture, whose climax took place this spring at the Festival of Independent Theatres; it was then that the smallest theatre in the world was opened in BrseË, a town situated on the edge of a high cliff; the theatre, with only 12 seats, is managed

by Teatar Oz, and just a few polished stone steps away is a hidden entrance to a small gallery which hosts important international exhibitions. The fact that it opened in the birthplace of famous Croatian writer, Eugen KumiËiÊ, gives it a special aura. A narrow road which climbs the mountain massif leads from BrseË to MoπÊenice, an old town with a fortified centre; on the list of Croatian cultural heritage, it boasts two world championships. For Easter, a contest called picanje is traditionally held, where the goal is to hit an egg and break its shell with a 1 euro coin from a 2.8 metre distance; this attracts hundreds of participants from the region as well as from other parts of Croatia and abroad. In August, an equal number of domestic and foreign visitors participate in the paper airplane throwing competition − they release their personal creations over the city walls towards the sea, and the best flights can go as far as several hundred meters.

All these towns along the western coast of Kvarner look like petrified historical postcards, narrow windows into the distant and recent past of the entire area, historical books whose essence is written on the stone stairways and narrow streets squeezed between the façades of small white houses with red roofs, terraces covered by densely interwoven grape vines and beaches whose sand has been caressed by the sea for thousands of years. The story that has been developing for centuries comes to life in the summer months, when footsteps echo on the stone staircases, voices murmur on the terraces under the grape vines, and the theatres, museums, galleries and concert areas compete with hundreds of programmes tailored to the interests of every visitor. It is then that this paradise on earth, which the sorceress Medea, patrician Agrippa and travel writer Valvasor chose for themselves, welcomes each new first-time visitor with open arms.

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OTOCI ISLANDS

Modra πpilja, Biπevo The Blue Grotto, Biπevo

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Piπe/By Dubravka Belas Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

Uvala Stiniva The Stiniva Cove

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Vis The Island of Vis

Vis je jednostavan, joπ niËim iskvaren otok, gdje su ljudi i danas prisni i joπ se, natjeËuÊi se u tome prijateljski, iskreno trude da gosti od njih odu zadovoljni. Otok je to koji nudi sve: tiπinu onome tko je æeli, srebrne uvale i mirne luke, bistro more za plivanje, ronjenje za povijesnim brodolomima i gusarskim blagom, paraglajding, πkraping, tenis, koπarku, kriket, bicikliranje i πetnje nebrojenim kozjim stazama, 34

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Komiæa

nudi vrhunska vina i ukusna, jednostavna jela spravljena po ribarskim i teæaËkim receptima, poput viπke pogaËe, ili srdela na raænju, prhkog viπkog cvita za zasladu… Otok je to koji istodobno nudi nestvarnu ljepotu prirode i Ëarobnu snagu æivota koji se veÊ tisuÊljeÊima opire noÊi, onako kako to Ëine stari, marljivi svjetionici neumorno nam otkrivajuÊi siguran put.

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Zbirka antiËkih amfora, Arheoloπki muzej grada Visa Antique amphorae, the Museum of Archeology, Vis

Vis is a simple and still unspoiled island, where people are still close and sincere in their striving to satisfy their guests, competing with each other in a friendly way. This is an island that offers it all: tranquillity to anyone who desires it, silver bays and safe harbours, clear seas for swimming, shipwreck and pirate treasure diving, paragliding, tennis, basketball, cricket, cycling and walking along countless goat paths, great 36

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Vinski podrum LipanoviÊ The LipanoviÊ Winery

wines and delicious, simple dishes made according to fishermen and farmers’ recipes, such as the Vis Pie (in Croatian, viπka pogaËa), spit roasted sardines or the crisp and sweet Vis Flower (in Croatian, viπki cvit)...

This is an island that offers the surreal beauty of nature and the magic power of life which has been resisting the night for millennia, much like the way old, hard-working lighthouses do, tirelessly showing us the way.

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BronËana glava boæice Artemide, Arheoloπki muzej grada Visa Bronze Head of Artemis, the Museum of Archeology, Vis

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Senko Karuza

Stipe LukπiÊ

Andro SlaviÊ

Jere Zambarlin

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Komiπka pogaËa Komiæa Flat Cake

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Tvrava Komuna, Komiæa Venetian castle (Komuna), Komiæa

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Gajeta falkuπa, Komiæa

Vrπa za jastoge, Komiæa Lobster traps, Komiæa

UËenici Ëiste ribu, Komiæa Students cleaning fish, Komiæa

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Vis, pogled iz Kuta View of Vis from Kut

Kula Perasti, Vis Perast’s Tower, Vis

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Vis

KuÊa Tramontana, Vis Tramontana Palace, Vis

Crkvica sv. Jurja St. George’s Church

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Svjetionik Host, Vis The Lighthouse Host, Vis

Kut, Vis

Kut, Vis

Crkva sv. Ciprijana i Justina, Kut, Vis The Church of Saint Cyprian and Justin, Kut,Vis

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Drvo rogaËa, Komiæa

RogaË

Carob Tree, Komiæa

Carob

Limun

Masline u cvatu

Lemons

Olives in bloom

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Gustirna i nasad limuna, Kut, Vis Water tank and lemon grove, Kut, Vis

Agava

Kaktus u cvatu

Kapari

Cactus in bloom

Capers

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tok. Mitsko utoËiπte od opasnosti oceana, divovskih valova, od razornih vjetrova i tmine noÊi. Spas na komadiÊu kopna usred nepreglednih voda, litica na kojoj Êemo, osim blaga, pronaÊi sreÊu, zauvijek ondje æivjeti mirno i bezbriæno. Udaljen od Splita pedesetak kilometara i otprilike toliko milja od Italije, na neki je naËin straæar hrvatske pomorske granice. Prepoznavale su to mnoge vojske tijekom povijesti, a zbog posljednje, jugoslavenske, koja je pola stoljeÊa dræala otok u svojevrsnoj izolaciji, baπ u vrijeme intenzivnog razvoja turizma, ovdje je oËuvana priroda, urbanistiËka autentiËnost, arhitekturalna izvornost i, nadasve, nepovrijeenost viπkog krajolika hotelskim mastodontima i prekomjernom betonizacijom. Na Visu se nalaze samo dva nevelika hotela, jedan u gradu Visu, drugi u Komiæi, pa se turisti oslanjaju na privatni smjeπtaj, ne samo u gradovima, nego i u obiteljskim domaÊinstvima u slikovitim, s ljubavlju obnovljenim starim zdanjima zaselaka Taleæ, Podselje, DraËevo polje, Podstraæje, Podhumlje, Brgujac…

Na nepravilnom trapezu otoka istiËu se dvije velike uvale sa dva najveÊa otoËna grada, na istoku, okrenutu kopnu, prostranu i prirodno zaπtiÊenu uvalu sv. Jurja u kojoj se smjestio grad Vis, a na zapadu, Komiπki zaljev, s dugim lukobranom koji Komiæu, kolijevku jadranskoga ribarstva, πtiti od zapadnih i juænih vjetrova.

Preostala su naselja i zaseoci priliËno dobro povezani mreæom cesta i oznaËenih putova.

Glavna je prometnica stara austrijska cesta, poveznica dvadeset kilometara udaljenih Visa i Komiæe. Bicikl je omiljeno prijevozno sredstvo domaÊega stanovniπtva, pa su i gostima otoka na raspolaganju mnoge rent-a-bike postaje.

Viπka je obala strma, ali razvedena, ispresijecana bajkovitim uvalama, s prekrasnim plaæama od pijeska ili πljunka i kristalno bistroga, puËinskog mora, Ëesto s hladom borova, tamarisa ili palmi. U mnoge od njih moæe se pristupiti

tek morskim putem, pa su prave oaze mira. Uz dobro opremljenu marinu u Visu, one su neodoljiv mamac nautiËarima, poput najsigurnije od njih, StonËice. Uvala Srebrna s bisernim oblucima, omiljena i za kupanje po mjeseËini, zacijelo pripada meu najljepπe plaæe Jadrana, a za tu se titulu bori sa Zaglavom, Ëija je plaæa poput udobne postelje od svijetloga pijeska.

Nevelik æal u Stinivi dramatiËno zaklanjaju od mora dvije visoke klisure pa se Ëini scenom iz nekoga pustolovnog filma. Gradac, Slatina, Tiha, Milna, Tepluπ, teπko je odluËiti kamo na kupanje, pogotovo πto i mali viπki arhipelag na jugoistoËnoj obali takoer skriva neke od najljepπih jadranskih laguna, zaklonjenih od vjetra i valova hridima i pliËinama. Neke od njih imaju i bonus − konobu, poput Male Trovne.

Bili bok, ravne kamene ploËe koje se poput velikog stubiπta spuπtaju u more, jedan su od nadaleko razglaπenih rajeva za nudiste.

StonËica je poznata i po jednome od najveÊih puËinskih svjetionika na Jadranu, koji se visoko uzdiæe nad niskim i isturenim rtom. Uz Velu Smokovu, na dubini od samo dva metra, potopljeno krilo aviona iz Drugoga svjetskog rata predstavlja tek jedan od mnogih ronilaËkih lokaliteta. Burna je proπlost Visa ostavila mnoge tragove na licu otoka, ali i u njegovu podmorju.

Od potopljene antiËke obale na morskome dnu ispred gradske plaæe Prirovo, do mnoπtva potonulih brodova, aviona, podmornica. NaÊi Êe se tu ponos talijanske mornarice, fregata Re d’Italia iz druge, one poznatije viπke bitke, mnogi drveni brikovi, naoruæani jedrenjaci, ribarski i teretni brodovi. Dva brodoloma datiraju joπ iz 2. stoljeÊa prije Krista i nalaze se uz otoËiÊ Host, na dubini od nezahtjevnih 12 do 25 metara, s gomilom razbijenih amfora. U viπkom je podmorju pronaeno i tridesetak sruπenih aviona, poput LeteÊe tvrave B-17, koja se u mekom pjeπËanom dnu smjestila zauvijek, mirujuÊi meu morskim travama i radoznalim ribama koje je nastanjuju. Tu je i Liberator, ameriËki

bombarder B24 iz 1944., dug 23 metra, s rasponom krila od 33 metra. Podmorje Visa spremno je za vas otkriti ne samo takve trofeje, nego i prirodne ljepote bogatoga podvodnog svijeta, nijemih lelujavih riba, brojnih πpilja i podvodnih litica koje se, ukraπene bijelim koraljem i æivopisnom crvenom gorgonijom, strmoglavo ruπe u tajanstvene dubine. ©pilje su osobita vrijednost Visa. KraljiËina, zvana joπ i Teutina πpilja po ilirskoj kraljici koja je neuspjeπno opsjedala rimsku Issu, lijepa je kraπka πpilja prepuna vapnenaËkog nakita, stalaktita i stalagmita, na okomitoj litici sedamdesetak metara nad morem. Pet dvorana i kanali koji ih povezuju nisu samo geoloπka zanimljivost, nego i vaæno arheoloπko nalaziπte.

Po Teuti je nazvan i svjetionik na Glavici blizu Taleæa, najstariji na Jadranu, podignut u 4. stoljeÊu pr. Kr. na 245 m nadmorske visine.

Zelenom πpiljom, na otoku Ravniku, sa dva ulaza i otvorom na vrhu, odakle u unutraπnjost dopire svjetlo, lomeÊi se tako da stijene πpilje obasjava zelenom svjetloπÊu, Viπani su se tako ponosili da su je, kao i hrvatske trobojnice skupljene po cijeloj Dalmaciji jer ih na Visu nije bilo dovoljno, pokazali i caru Franji Josipu I. kad je u sklopu svoje dalmatinske turneje pohodio Vis. Nekoliko godina poslije, barun Eugen von Ransonnet, diplomat i slikar, veliki ljubitelj Dalmacije, otkriva Modru πpilju na otoËiÊu Biπevu. Nadahnuto je usporedi s dvorcem nekoga morskog boga u kojemu modra svjetlost prodire duboko ispod stijena pa se Ëini da one lebde. Objava tog Ëlanka u beËkome dnevnom listu oznaËila je poËetak suvremenog turizma u Dalmaciji. Komiπku, do tada iskljuËivo ribarsku luku, tako su potkraj 19. stoljeÊa poËeli zaposjedati parobrodi s prvim turistima. Na Biπevu je joπ jedna znamenita πpilja − Medvidina, nazvana tako jer je bila staniπtem danas vrlo rijetke vrste tuljana − sredozemne medvjedice koju ovdje nazivaju morskim Ëovikom. Velik ulazni otvor 160 metara dugaËke πpilje postupno se

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Pogled na otok Vis s Biπeva View of Vis from Biπevo

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Uvala StonËica StonËica Bay

suæava i sniæava, sve do malog æala na kraju, prikladnog utoËiπta toj ugroæenoj vrsti.

Povijesna je znamenitost Titova πpilja, koju zapravo tvore dvije peÊine. Nazvana je po marπalu Titu, partizanskome voi pokreta otpora, koji je upravo u njoj 1944. godine vodio pregovore za meunarodno priznanje Jugoslavije, kojoj Êe postati doæivotni predsjednik.

Viπe od pettisuÊljetne nastanjenosti otoka pokazuju mnogi tragovi, ponajprije nalazi obojene neolitske keramike. Tu Êe kulturu u sljedeÊem tisuÊljeÊu uniπtiti doπljaci Iliri. Gomile − humci, mistiËno razasuti po otoku, pripadaju upravo ilirskome razdoblju, pa tako i Vela Gomila, pokraj Taleæa, Ëija se starost procjenjuje na 5600 godina. Iliri tada joπ ne osnivaju dræave, jer im i ne trebaju, ionako joπ nema dræava oko njih, ali kad se one jednom poËnu formirati, i u Jadranskome se moru osniva prva, ilirska dræava − isejska kojom vlada Jonij, prvi poznati kralj na Jadranu. Po njemu se u to doba Ëitavo Jadransko more zvalo Jonijskim. Dolaskom Grka Dionizija Starijega, notornog tiranina sirakuπkoga, staro je ilirsko stanovniπtvo ipak ostavljeno na otoku. Ako i nije bio prvi koji je otkrio pogodnosti viπke luke, Dionizije ju je svakako imao Ëime napuniti pa ju je prvi i najbolje iskoristio. Prostrana toliko da je mogla primiti mnoπtvo sirakuπkih trijera, viπka je luka relativno uskih vrata, πto je πtiti od juænih, zapadnih i istoËnih vjetrova.

Dobro je doπla i osmatraËnica na Humu, koji i danas dominira otokom, odakle se πiri pogled sve do talijanske obale na zapadu ili Zadra na sjeveru − nadzire se odavde Ëak i dio kopna i svi otoci i kanali srednje Dalmacije, pa tako i sav promet koji se tuda odvijao trgovaËkim, ali i gusarskim laama što su vrebale ove prve. Nije stoga Ëudno da je antiËka Issa, razvijena na poluotoku Prirovu i podruËju Gradine danaπnjega Visa, bila jednim od glavnih stupova Dionizijeve vlasti. Issa se u to doba razvijala i cvala, sve dok se carstvo pod vlaπÊu njegova sina, Dionizija Mlaeg, nije raspalo. Ali sigurno uËvrπÊena i

bogata Issa nije propala, stvorila je vlastiti polis, samostalnu dræavu-grad. Kovala je vlastiti novac, imala vlastitu flotu, zakone, razvijenu trgovinu, proizvodnju keramike i veÊ tada razvijeno vinogradarstvo. U Arheoloπkoj zbirci Issa, smjeπtenoj u austrijskoj utvrdi Gospina batarija, izloæena je, uz rijetke prapovijesne nalaze s otoka, najznaËajnija zbirka grËkih spomenika u Hrvatskoj. Svaka se vlast na otoku pokuπavala uËvrstiti i utvrdama. Tvravu Komunu u Komiæi iz 16. stoljeÊa sagradile su mletaËke vlasti radi obrane od turskih osvajanja i gusarskih provala i pljaËki. Poslije je uz nju sagraen toranj sa satom, a komiπka je opÊina ondje smjestila upravni ured. Tvrave su gradile i sve vojske koje su boravile na Visu. UnatoË kratkom boravku na otoku, usred tadaπnjega francuskoga posjeda, Englezi utvruju viπku luku, pa nas na njih i guvernera Robertsona danas podsjeÊa tvrava King George na zapadnom ulazu u luku, koju Viπani zovu Fortica. Na istoËnome se gradi utvrda Wellington, a nad uvalom Svitnjak, utvrde Bentinck i Robertson.

Slavenski Vis, nekadaπnja starogrËka Issa, latinska Lissa, dijeli sudbinu ostalih hrvatskih krajeva − pa tako ni ovom udaljenom otoku nije bilo dano na duæe razdoblje æivjeti u mirnim i nezanimljivim vremenima. U ranom se srednjem vijeku Vis nalazi u starohrvatskoj dræavi, pridonoseÊi vaænosti i pomorskoj snazi hrvatskih narodnih vladara. Stotine sagina i kondura Rexa Croatoruma Tomislava, koje nabraja Konstantin Porfirogenet, trebale su mnoge luke za priveziπta, zacijelo i viπke. Zatim je za vladare imao MleËane, poslije njih na desetak godina Francuze pod Napoleonom, Engleze koji doslovno otimlju Vis od Francuza, ne zadugo, ali oËigledno dovoljno da se na otoku, prvome mjestu u Hrvatskoj, poËne igrati kriket. Tradicija se nedavno obnovila pa se danas ta zanimljiva igra koænom loptom i vrbovim palicama, ponovno, i to vrlo ambiciozno, igra u Pliskom polju, zasaenom vinovom lozom,

uz nekadaπnji savezniËki aerodrom iz Drugoga svjetskog rata, s pistom od ËeliËnih ploËa, joπ oznaËenom crvenobijelim stupovima vidljivim izmeu trsja. Teren viπkoga kriket kluba, s imenom Sir Williama Hostea, smjeπten je uz glasovitu konobu, izmeu vinograda i maslinika, i posljednjih je godina omiljeno odrediπte ljubitelja kriketa iz cijeloga svijeta. ProËuo se hrvatski uspjeh tog sporta, pa se na Visu razvio i svojevrstan izvansezonski kriket turizam.

Redoviti su izazivaËi domaÊega kluba i posade ratnih brodova Kraljevske mornarice, koje put Ëesto navede do Visa. Sir William Hoste, zvan joπ i Mladi Nelson, Ëest uzrok glavobolje Napoleonovih zapovjednika, ËuvajuÊi britansku bazu na Visu, kratio je vrijeme kriketom i gusarenjem.

Vis je u to doba, joπ jednom u svojoj povijesti, sjeciπte trgovaËkih putova na Jadranu, srediπte izvoza ribe, soli i vina, te krijumËarene britanske i kolonijalne robe namijenjene Dalmaciji, srednjoj Europi i Turskoj. Od finih su engleskih tkanina Ëesto i mnogi francuski Ëasnici πivali odijela po modi. Nikada prije i nikada poslije nije na Visu bilo toliko stanovnika, nahrupiπe ovamo na tisuÊe trgovaca sa svih strana svijeta, iz Europe, s Balkana i Bliskog istoka. Govorilo se tada na Visu engleski, francuski i njemaËki, a zbog nedostatnog smjeπtaja u viπkim kuÊama, mnoge su lae izvuËene na æal da bi se u njima stanovalo.

O Visu se ne moæe govoriti, a ne spomenuti da su se tu odvijale dvije velike pomorske bitke. U prvoj se, poznatoj i kao Bitka kod Lisse, posljednjoj bitki na svijetu u kojoj su sudjelovali jedrenjaci, 1811. godine u Viπkome kanalu sukobila britanska mornarica pod zapovjedniπtvom upravo naπeg Williama Hostea, s brojËano dvostruko nadmoÊnijom francuskom flotom. Niz nespretnosti u zapovijedima i nesporazumima izmeu francuskih fregata i korveta, neπto nepovoljnog vjetra i loπe sreÊe rezultiralo je time da su borbene zastave francuskih brodova padale jedna za drugom.

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Grebeni kod otoËiÊa Budikovac Reefs along the islet of Budikovac

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Izgubivπi Viπku bitku, Francuzima je Jadransko more postalo nedostiæno. Slomom Napoleona, Vis postaje sastavni dio Austrijskoga Carstva sve do njegova raspada. Druga, poznatija i za Hrvate znaËajnija Viπka bitka dogodila se 20. srpnja 1866. godine. Hrvatski mornari pod austrijskom zastavom brane Vis od tek stvorene dræave Italije. Prva je to bitka na svijetu u kojoj sudjeluju oklopni i parni brodovi, i zadnja u kojoj se rabila ilirska ratna tehnika: probijanje boka protivniËkog broda kljunom. Hrvatski mornari pobjeuju i protjeruju talijansku mornaricu.

Pobjedom se probudila hrvatska nacionalna svijest u Dalmaciji, uvelo viπestranaËje, a poËeo je i novi gospodarski procvat otoka. Ali, kad i viπke vinograde pohara filoksera, velik se dio stanovniπtva iseli zbog neimaπtine. Potkraj Prvoga svjetskog rata uslijedi trogodiπnja talijanska okupacija, a do 1941. Vis je u sastavu Kraljevine Jugoslavije. PoËetkom Drugoga svjetskog rata otok ponovno okupira Italija i vlada okrutno, talijanizirajuÊi stanovniπtvo, paleÊi viπke kuÊe, protjerujuÊi ugledne Viπane i strijeljajuÊi taoce, sve do kapitulacije. Poslije toga, partizani i komunisti izlaze iz ilegale i formiraju vlast, te je ona do kraja rata u rukama partizana i njihovih ameriËkih i engleskih saveznika, kojima je otok bila strateπka baza za ratne operacije u Jadranu. Nakon Drugoga svjetskog rata, Vis je vojna baza Jugoslavenske armije. Otok postaje velikom utvrdom, s viπe od 30 vojnih objekata, podzemnom vojnom bolnicom i tunelom za sklanjanje ratnih brodica. Svi su ti vojni toponimi danas turistiËke atrakcije, koje je moguÊe obiÊi u pratnji vodiËa.

U tih se pola stoljeÊa izolacije prepolovio broj stanovnika. Nakon hrvatskog osamostaljenja 1991. godine, joπ su neko vrijeme na otoku boravile istodobno i hrvatska policija i Vojna jugoslavenska milicija. S obzirom na to da je strancima pristup na otok u Jugoslaviji bio zabranjen, poËinje se tek tada razvijati turizam, osobito nautiËki, pa postaje sve vaænija djelat-

nost, uz tradicionalnu poljoprivredu i ribarstvo.

Osobito je ribarstvo bilo razvijeno u Komiæi gdje je, sve do poËetka Drugoga svjetskog rata, bilo Ëak sedam tvornica za preradu ribe.

Komiπki su ribari dali izraditi posebnu gajetu za ribarenje. Lijepa falkuπa, brza drvena gajeta πiljatog pramca i krme, i zaobljena trupa, opremljena latinskim jedrom i veslima, rabila se od 18. stoljeÊa za lov i prijevoz ribe. Posljednja je falkuπa potonula u oluji kod otoka Biπeva 1986. godine, ali danas se ponovno grade i vraÊaju u funkciju. Koliko su cijenjene, pokazuje primjer proslave 200. godiπnjice Kraljevine Norveπke.

Norveæane falkuπa podsjeÊa na drakar, njihovu vikinπku brodicu, pa su je proπle godine pozvali da predvodi jubilarnu regatu u Oslu. Hrvatsku je maritimnu baπtinu predstavljala i na EXPO-u u Portugalu, a nekoliko je puta sudjelovala i na meunarodnom festivalu mora i mornara u Brestu, gdje je izabrana za jednu od 10 najzanimljivijih brodica svijeta.

Vis i sela u unutraπnjosti otoka viπe su se oslanjali na vinogradarstvo i ratarstvo. Na pjeskovitome viπkom tlu uzgajali su se ponajviπe plavac mali i vugava, tisuÊljetne loze punih okusa s aromama otoka, kadulje, naranËe, oskoruπe, bajame. Dio groæa i danas se bere kasnije i dodatno suπi na suncu da bi iz njega potekao gusti nektar proπeka. Najbolji naËin upoznavanja s izvrsnim otoËnim vinima i travaricama obilazak je brojnih konoba i vinarija vinske rute. Ohrabruje πto se sve viπe osvjeπÊuje potreba oËuvanja starih kultivara karstiÊevice, beretinjoka, palagruæonke, palaruπe, kurteloπke, glavanjuπe, paviciÊa, babiÊa, carnjenka i sobotovca, prebogate i slavne viπke vinogradarske tradicije. U novije se doba u viπkim kraπkim poljima uzgaja i sve viπe maslina, limuna, naranËi, palmi, rogaËa, indijskih smokava, aloja. Otok gotovo da posjeduje svoju olfaktivnu legitimaciju, miriπuÊi na smilje, lovor, kadulju, ruæmarin i pelin.

Treba reÊi da je u naizmjeniËnim razdobljima

blagostanja i neimaπtine, ta druga uvijek duæe trajala. Tako su se dogodila mnoga iseljavanja s otoka pa je tuæan podatak da u San Pedru u Kaliforniji, na primjer, ima deset puta viπe Komiæana nego πto Komiæa danas ima stanovnika.

Crkva je, posloviËno, imala ulogu obrane vjernika u teπkim vremenima, pa nije neobiËno da je na otoku burne proπlosti danas tridesetak crkvi.

Komiπka crkva sv. Roka, zaπtitnika od kuge, u obliku tornja sagraena je uz prvobitnu istoimenu crkvicu, tako da je stara crkvica pretvorena u sakristiju nove. Pred crkvom sv. Nikole u samostanskom sklopu Muster, svake se godine na blagdan tog zaπtitnika putnika i mornara, ritualno spaljuje po jedna isluæena barka koju se na rukama donosi s komiπke rive. Crkva Gospe Gusarice na komiπkoj obali prvobitno se zvala crkva Sv. Marije. U 16. st. opljaËkali su je πpanjolski gusari, ali im je nevrijeme pomrsilo raËune: barke su im se potopile zajedno s opljaËkanim blagom, samo je slika Bogorodice, kaæe legenda, doplutala pred uniπtenu crkvu.

Mjeπtani su crkvu obnovili i u spomen toga dogaaja nadjenuli joj ime Gusarica. GusariËine orgulje s 11 registara najstarije su do danas saËuvane crkvene orgulje u Dalmaciji. Jedna od najljupkijih starih crkvica za koju se pretpostavlja da je sagraena u 15. stoljeÊu jest crkva Sv. Duha, na najviπem vrhu otoka − brdu Hum, odakle puca jedinstven, nezaboravan pogled na puËinu i obje obale Jadrana.

Vis je jednostavan, još niËim iskvaren otok, gdje su ljudi i danas prisni i još se, natjeËuÊi se u tome prijateljski, iskreno trude da gosti od njih odu zadovoljni. Nudi baπtinu taloæenu od antike do burne novovjeke povijesti, kojoj ne smeta ljetni veËernji žagor uliËnih sviraËa i slikara, puËkih veselica na rivi, koncerata klapskih druæina, izloæbi, recitala, predstava; na kojemu je joπ i danas uplovljavanje u luku osvijetljenih vapora, jedinih veza sa svijetom, neπto doista osobito…

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Otok je to koji nudi sve: tišinu onome tko je želi, srebrne uvale i mirne luke, bistro more za plivanje, ronjenje za povijesnim brodolomima i gusarskim blagom, bicikliranje i šetnje nebrojenim kozjim stazama, nudi vrhunska vina i ukusna, jednostavna jela spravljena po ribarskim i težaËkim receptima, poput viške pogaËe, ili srdela na ražnju, prhkog viπkog cvita za zasladu…

Otok je to što istodobno nudi nestvarnu ljepotu prirode i Ëarobnu snagu života koji se veÊ tisuÊljeÊima opire noÊi, onako kako to Ëine stari, marljivi svjetionici neumorno nam otkrivajuÊi siguran put. .

A

n island. The mythical refuge from the dangers of the ocean, giant waves, destructive winds and the darkness of the night. Safety on a tiny piece of land in the midst of vast waters, a cliff where, besides treasure, happiness is to be found, where a carefree life can be lived peacefully forever.

Some fifty kilometres away from Split and about as many miles away from Italy, Vis is the coast guard of sorts of Croatian maritime borders.

Many armies throughout history were aware of this. Vis has the last army, the Yugoslav one − which kept the Island in isolation of sorts for half a century exactly during the blossoming of tourism − to thank for its current advantage of preserved nature, urban authenticity, architectural originality and, above all, its landscape not being spoiled by mastodont hotels and excessive cementation. There are only two hotels on Vis, neither of which is too large, one in the Town of Vis, the other in Komiæa, so tourists rely on private accommodation available not only in towns, but also in family households in picturesque, lovingly restored old buildings in the hamlets of Taleæ, Podselje, DraËevo polje, Podstraæje, Podhumlje, Brgujac...

The irregular trapezium-shaped island features two large bays which are house to the island’s

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two largest towns − the spacious and naturally protected Bay of St. Juraj (in English, Bay of St. George) in the East, facing the mainland, where the Town of Vis is located, and the Bay of Komiæa in the West, with a long breakwater which protects Komiæa, the cradle of Adriatic fishing, from westerly and southerly winds. The remaining settlements and hamlets are pretty well connected with a network of roads and marked paths. The main road is an old Austrian, twenty-kilometre long road connecting Vis and Komiæa. The bicycle is the local population’s favourite means of transport, and so there are many rent-a-bike stations available to guests.

The coastline of Vis is steep, but rugged, interspersed with fabulous sandy or pebble beaches, and crystal clear, open seas, often providing plenty of shade under pine, tamarisk or palm trees. Many of them are accessible only from the sea, which makes them real oases of peace. Owing to the well-equipped marina in Vis, they are an irresistible lure to sailors, like the safest of them all, StonËica. Srebrna Bay (in English, Silver Bay) with its pearl pebbles, a popular night swimming spot, is certainly one of the most beautiful beaches of the Adriatic, fighting for the title with Zaglav, whose beach is like a comfortable bed made of white sand. The small strand in Stiniva is sheltered dramatically from the sea by two high cliffs, so it looks like an adventure film set. Gradac, Slatina, Tiha, Milna, Tepluπ − it is difficult to decide where to go swimming, particularly given that Vis’s small archipelago on the island’s southeast coast also hides some of the most beautiful Adriatic lagoons, sheltered from the wind and waves by rocks and shallows. Some of them have a bonus − a tavern, such as Small Travna. Bili bok, flat stone slabs that descend into the sea like a grand staircase, is one of the best-known havens for nudists.

StonËica is known for one of the largest offshore lighthouses, which rises high above

the low and protruding cape. Vela Smokova and a sunken airplane wing from World War II at a depth of only two metres is but one of the many dive sites. The stormy past of Vis has left many a mark on the face of the island itself, as well as its seabed − from the sunken ancient coastline on the sea floor in front of the Prirovo beach, to many sunken ships, aircraft, submarines. The pride of the Italian navy, the Re d’Italia frigate, from the rather famous Battle of Vis, many wooden brigs, armed sailboats, fishing boats and cargo ships, all found their resting place here. Two ships shipwrecked in the 2nd century BC near the islet of Host at an undemanding diving depth of 12 to 25 meters, displaying a heap of broken amphorae. Some thirty crashed aircraft have been discovered in the seabed of the island of Vis, one of which is the B-17 Flying Fortress, which found its eternal resting place in the soft sandy sea floor, resting amongst seaweed and the curious fish inhabiting it. There is also Liberator, an American B-24 bomber from 1944, 23 metres long with a 33-metre wingspan. The sea floor of Vis abounds in not only such trophies, but also the natural beauty of a rich underwater world, silent undulating fish, numerous caves and underwater cliffs which, embellished with white corals and colourful red gorgonians, plunge steeply into mysterious depths.

The caves are a special value of Vis. Queen’s Cave, also called Teuta’s Cave named after the Illyrian queen who was unsuccessful in trying to besiege the Roman Issa, is a beautiful karst cave embellished with limestone jewellery, stalactites and stalagmites, on the vertical cliff some seventy meters above sea-level. The five halls and tunnels connecting the halls are not only a geological curiosity, but also an important archaeological site. The lighthouse on Glavica near Taleæ, the oldest on the Adriatic, built in the 4th century BC at 245 m above sea-level is also named after Teuta. There is also the Green Cave

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on the island of Ravnik, with two entrances and an opening at the top, where light enters the interior of the cave, illuminating the rocks inside the cave in green light. The locals have been so very proud of the Green Cave that − in addition to Croatian national flags gathered from all over Dalmatia because the number of national flags to be found on Vis did not suffice − they showed it to Emperor Franz Joseph I, when he visited Vis while touring Dalmatia.

A few years later, Baron Eugen von Ransonnet, a diplomat and painter, and a great lover of Dalmatia, discovered the Blue Cave on the islet of Biπevo. In a flash of inspiration, he compared it with the castle of a sea god, where blue light penetrates deep under the rocks, making them seem as if the rocks float. The publication of this article in a Viennese daily newspaper marked the beginning of modern tourism in Dalmatia.

And so at the end of the 19th century, Komiæa, until then only a fishing port, began to be occupied by steamers with the first tourists. There is another famous cave on Biπevo − Medvidina, once the habitat of a today very rare species of seals, the Mediterranean monk seal, which is here called the sea man and after which the cave was named. The large opening of the 160-metre long cave gradually narrows and lowers up to a small beach at the end, a suitable shelter for this endangered species.

Tito’s Cave, which actually consists of two caves, is a historical attraction. It was named after Marshal Tito, the Partisan leader of the resistance movement, given that in 1944 it was exactly in this cave that he led negotiations for the international recognition of Yugoslavia, whose president for life he later became.

Many traces, particularly finds of painted Neolithic pottery, suggest that the Island of Vis has been inhabited for more than five millennia. This culture would in the next millennium be destroyed by newcomers − the Illyrians. Heaps or mounds, mystically scattered across the island, belong exactly to the Illyrian period, including Vela Gomila near Taleæ, which is estimated to be 58

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5600 years old. There were no Illyrian states at the time as the Illyrians had no need for states yet and there were none around them. But once states started to be formed, the first Illyrian state to have been established in the Adriatic Sea was Issa, ruled by Ionius, the first known king of the Adriatic. According to him, the entire Adriatic Sea was, at the time, called the Ionian Sea. With the arrival of Dionysius the Elder, a notorious Greek tyrant of Syracuse, the ancient Illyrian population was allowed to stay on the island.

Even if he was not the first to have discovered the advantages of the Port of Vis, Dionysius most certainly had what to fill up with and so he was the first to put it to good use. Spacious enough to be able to receive a multitude of Syracusan triers, the gate of the Port of Vis is relatively narrow protecting it from southerly, westerly and easterly winds. Still dominating the island, the watchtower on Hum Hill is welcome, from where the view stretches to the Italian coast in the West and Zadar in the North, and from where even a part of the mainland and all the islands and channels of Central Dalmatia are overlooked, including all traffic done by trade ships, as well as pirate ships lurking trade ships. It is no wonder that the ancient Issa, developed on the Prirovo peninsula and the area of Gradina of today’s Vis, was one of the main pillars of Dionysius’s rule. Issa was growing and flourishing until the Empire crumbled under the rule of his son, Dionysius the Younger. However, the well-fortified and rich Issa did not collapse.

On the contrary, an independent city-state was created. It minted its own money, had its own fleet, laws, well-developed trade, a production of ceramics and an already well-developed viticulture. The Issa Archaeological Collection, mounted in the Austrian fortress of Gospina Batarija, exhibits − alongside rare prehistoric finds from the island − the most important collection of Ancient Greek monuments in Croatia. Each and every administration on the island looked to fortify itself. The Komuna Fort in Komiæa was built by the Venetian administration in the 16th century as defence against Turkish and pirate invasions and plunder. A clock tower was later erected adjacent to it, where the Borough of Komiæa has housed its administration office.

Fortresses were also built by all the armies stationed on the Island of Vis. Despite their short stay on the island, in the midst of what were then French landholdings, the English fortified the Port of Vis with the Fortress of King George at the western entrance to the port, which the locals call Fortica, a reminder of their once presence and governor Robertson. The eastern entrance showcases Wellington Fortress, and the Bay of Svitnjak the Fortresses of Bentinck and Robertson.

Slavic Vis, the once Greek town of Issa, the Latin Lissa − shares the fate of other Croatian regions. In other words, not even this remote island was destined to live an uninteresting life in peace and quiet for a longer period of time.

In the early Middle Ages, Vis was part of an old Croatian state structure, contributing to the importance and the maritime power of the Croatian national rulers. The hundreds of saginas and konduras of the Croatian King Tomislav listed by Constantine Porphyrogenitus needed many a port for mooring, which must have included the Port of Vis. Vis was then ruled by the Venetians, after whom the French came under Napoleon for a period of ten years, and then came the English who literally seized it from the French − not for long, but obviously long enough to have cricket be played for the first time ever in Croatia on the island. This tradition has been recently restored and so today this interesting game involving a leather ball and willow cricket bats is played again, and very ambitiously so, in Plisko Polje, where grapevines are grown next to the former World War II airport used by the allies, whose runway was made of steel plates, still marked with red and white signalisation visible from the surrounding reeds.

The cricket grounds of the Sir William Hoste Cricket Club of Vis, adjacent to a famous tavern and surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, has in recent years been a favourite destination for cricket lovers from around the world. The word about the successes reaped by Croatians in this sport spread and so an out-of-season cricket tourism of sorts has been developed on the Island of Vis. The local cricket club is also regularly challenged by the crew of Royal Navy warships, whose routes seem to take them to Vis rather often. Sir William Hoste, also called Young Nelson, who often caused headaches to Napoleon’s commanders, spent much of his time playing cricket and piracy while guarding the British base on the island of Vis. At the time, Vis was, yet again in its history, an intersection of trade routes in the Adriatic, an export centre of fish, salt and wine, and smuggled British and colonial goods intended to reach Dalmatia, Central Europe and Turkey. Many French officers often had fashionable suits made of fine English fabrics. Swarming with thousands of traders from around the world, Europe, the Balkans and the Middle East, Vis had never seen so many people. English, French and German were all spoken in the then Vis, and given that the accommodation available in houses was insufficient, many ships were towed onto the beach so as to provide accommodation.

Vis cannot be talked about without making mention of two great naval battles having taken place there. In the first − known as the Battle

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of Lissa and the last battle in the world to have involved sailing ships − under the command of Croatia’s Sir William Hoste, the British Navy fought against the vastly numerically superior French fleet in 1811 in the Channel of Vis. A series of clumsy commands and misunderstandings between the French frigates and corvettes, somewhat more unfavourable winds and bad luck ended in the battle flags of the French ships falling one after the other. Having lost the Battle of Lissa, the Adriatic Sea became unattainable to the French. With the downfall of Napoleon, the Island of Vis became an integral part of the Austrian Empire until its breakup.

More famous and more important for Croatians, the second battle of Vis took place on 20 July 1866. Under the Austrian flag, Croatian sailors defended Vis from the newly created state of Italy. This was the first battle in the world to have involved armoured and steam warships, and the last to have used the Illyrian military technique: ramming the sides of the enemy’s ships with battering rams. The Croatian sailors won and chased the Italian Navy away. This victory helped to awaken Croatian national consciousness in Dalmatia and introduce a multi-party system, which was followed by the island’s new economic boom. However, when the vineyards of Vis were devastated by phylloxera, a large part of the population, now poverty-stricken, moved away. The end of World War I was followed by a three-year Italian occupation, and until 1941 Vis was a part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. At the beginning of World War II, Vis was again occupied and ruled over cruelly

by Italy, Italianising the local population, burning down their houses, banishing prominent members of the local community and shooting hostages up to the capitulation of the Italians.

There came the partisans and communists who stopped operating underground and formed a government, which stayed in the hands of partisans and their American and British allies, for whom the Island of Vis was a strategic base for military operations in the Adriatic Sea, until the end of the War. After World War II, Vis was a military base of the Yugoslav Army. The island was turned into a large fortress with more than 30 military facilities, an underground military hospital and a tunnel for harbouring warships.

All these military sites are today tourist attractions that can be visited with a guide. In these fifty years of isolation, the population of Vis has been halved. After Croatia gained its independence in 1991, for a brief period of time both the Croatian police and the Yugoslav military police were stationed simultaneously on the island. Since in Yugoslavia access to the island was banned for foreigners, it is only after 1991 that tourism in general, and nautical tourism 60

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in particular, started developing. In addition to traditional agriculture and fishing, tourism has become an increasingly important activity. Fishing was particularly well-developed in Komiæa, which, until the beginning of World War II, had as many as seven fish processing plants. The fishermen of Komiæa had a special fishing boat made, called the gajeta. The beautiful falkuπa, a fast wooden gajeta with a pointed bow and stern and a rounded hull, equipped with Lateen sails and oars, had been used from the 18th century for fishing and fish transport. The last falkuπa sank in a storm near the Island of Biπevo in 1986, but new falkuπas are being built today.

The celebration of the 200th anniversary of the Constitution of the Kingdom of Norway shows the extent to which falkuπas are appreciated.

The falkuπa reminds the Norwegians of their drakkar, the Viking or dragon ship, and so they invited the falkuπa last year to lead the jubilee regatta in Oslo. The falkuπa also represented Croatia’s maritime heritage at the EXPO in Portugal, and participated several times in the International Festival of the Sea, Boats and Sailors in Brest, France, where it was chosen as one of the 10 most interesting ships of the world.

Vis and the island’s inland villages relied more heavily on viticulture and farming. The sandy soil of the Island of Vis has been ideal for the growing of Plavac Mali and Vugava, centuriesold grapevines full of flavour with the aroma of the island − sage, orange, rowan and almond.

Even today, part of the grapes continues to be harvested later and further dried in the sun to make sure that the sherry gushing from it is nectar-thick. The best way to find out about the island’s excellent wines and herb brandies is to tour the many taverns and wine cellars of the wine route. It is encouraging to see that awareness has been raised about the need to preserve old grape varieties − KarstiÊevica, Beretinjok, Palagruæonka, Palaruπa, Kurteloπka, Glavanjuπa, PaviciÊa, BabiÊ, Carnjenka and Sobotovac − and the rich and famous winegrowing tradition of Vis. In recent times, the karst fields of Vis have been producing more and more olives, lemons, oranges, palm trees, carob trees, Indian figs and aloes. With immortelle, bay leaves, sage, rosemary and wormwood perfuming the air, the island seems to possess its very own olfactory identity card.

It should be noted that, in the alternations between periods of prosperity and periods of poverty, the latter always lasted much longer. In turn, much of the local population moved away.

It is a sad fact that, for example, the number of people from Komiæa in San Pedro, California, alone is ten times larger than the number of people in Komiæa on Vis today.

The Church has proverbially had a role in defending the faithful in difficult times, which is why it is not surprising that the island of such a turbulent past has thirty churches today. Komiæa’s Church of St. Rocco, venerated as the protector against the plague, was erected in the form of a tower next to a little old church bearing the same name, so that the old church was turned into the vestry of the new one. Each year, on the Feast Day of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of travellers and sailors, a worn-out boat, carried by hand from the waterfront of Komiæa, is ritually burned in front of the Church of St. Nicholas in the Muster monastery complex. Crkva Gospe Gusarice (in English, Church of Our Lady the Pirate) on the waterfront of Komiæa was originally called the Church of St. Mary. In the 16th century, it was plundered by Spanish pirates, but the stormy weather was not on their side: their boats sunk along with the looted goods and, according to legend, it was only the painting of the Virgin Mary that floated back to the destroyed church.

The villagers rebuilt the church and named it, in memory of the event, Gusarica or the Pirate.

The Pirate’s 11-register organ is the oldest surviving church organ in Dalmatia. One of the loveliest little old churches, which is supposed to have been built in the 15th century, is the Church of the Holy Spirit on the highest point of the island − the Hum Hill, offering a unique and spectacular view of the open sea and the coast on both sides of the Adriatic.

Vis is a simple and still unspoiled island, where people are still close and sincere in their striving to satisfy their guests, competing with each other in a friendly way. This is an island that offers it all: tranquillity to anyone who desires it, silver bays and safe harbours, clear seas for swimming, shipwreck and pirate treasure diving, cycling and walking along countless goat paths, great wines and delicious, simple dishes made according to fishermen and farmers’ recipes, such as the Vis Pie (in Croatian, viška pogaËa), spit roasted sardines or the crisp and sweet Vis Flower (in Croatian, viški cvit)...

It offers a heritage which has been deposited since Antiquity to recent and turbulent times, which does not mind the summer’s evening hustle and bustle of street musicians and painters, folk festivals on the waterfront, a-cappella klapa concerts, exhibitions, recitals, plays; on which sailing into the harbour of lit vapor, the only connection to the world, is still something truly special...

This is an island that offers the surreal beauty of nature and the magic power of life which has been resisting the night for millennia, much like the way old, hard-working lighthouses do, tirelessly showing us the way.

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TRADICIJA TRADITION

Ljudska ruka Ëesto ne vidi savrπenstvo cjeline dok podiæe dio nekog sadræaja, koji tek u zavrπenome mozaiku iskazuje udivljenje od kojega zastaje dah. Gradnja suhozidnih krajolika, kamenih kuÊa, gumna, gradina i zdenaca koje su starosjedioci jadranskih otoka i obala sustavno podizali, bez projektnih nacrta, izvire iz umjetniËkog iskaza njihove intuitivne i praktiËne mudrosti temeljene na Ëvrstoj suradnji s okruæjem u kojemu se æivi. Takvi izriËaji pradavne kamene poezije iskazuju i snagu jedinstvene jednostavnosti u kojoj se æivot predstavlja bez maski i suviπnih pridjeva.

Piπe/By Goran StojanoviÊ Fotografije/Photos Ivo Pervan

The builder’s hand often fails to appreciate the perfection of the whole during the process of building a future structure. Only when a mosaic is complete, does it emerge as an awe-inspiring beauty worthy of breathtaking admiration. Dry-stone masonry has been widely practiced by the inhabitants of the Adriatic islands and littoral.

Without any designs, relying only on the artistic expression of their intuitive and practical wisdom, rooted in close understanding of their environments, stone masons built walls, houses, threshing floors, forts and wells. These expressions of ancient poetry in stone also testify to the power of unique simplicity where life appears without masks and unnecessary attributes.

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ovjek je oduvijek svojim duhom i tijelom istraæivao prirodu, stvarajuÊi prostor za svoj dom s ognjiπtem, pritom mijenjajuÊi krajolik u kome je nastojao utisnuti svoj otisak, znamen vlastite prilagodbe.

U krajolicima gdje kamen, vjetar i sunce dominiraju, Ëovjek nema veliku moguÊnost izbora za ovladavanje prostorom nego nuæno spoznaje da su prihvaÊenje, usklaenje i strpljiva po-

niznost jedini pristup kojim se moæe ostvariti opstojna suradnja s Prirodom.

Povijest se moæe temeljito uËiti iz kamena.

Drevne civilizacije oduvijek su ga mudro slagale u znakove i putokaze. U njega su unosili, ucrtavali ili urezivali mnoge sadræaje koji i danas zahtijevaju veliku strpljivost i pomno prouËavanje. U dubinskim prizorima njegove strukture izlaze nam odgonetke, ponegdje i zatomljeni

Vratite me u gromade, u klisure, u spletove gorja.

U zakone vjeËnosti moje djeviËanstvo Jure Kaπtelan, Jadikovka kamena Return me to the rock masses, the cliffs, the mountain ranges.

Return my innocence to the laws of eternity.

Jure Kaπtelan; Lament of a Stone CROATIA AIRLINES

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æivotni signali zapisani u fosilnim zapisima biljaka ili pradavnih biÊa koja su veÊ odavno nestala s naπih planetarnih horizonata.

Kamena su pristaniπta, svjetionici, lukobrani, muli, mostovi i palaËe. Mnogi tornjevi i zidine, utvrde i kaπteli graeni su njime. Graditeljstvo je izriËaj uznesenog nadahnuÊa spuπtenog u ruke graditelja za prostor Ëovjeka. Namjene su mu razliËite. Tvre i drevna zdanja nose ga u sebi i oko sebe. Kamena graa uvijek se pomno birala za razliËite namjene te se prevozila i iz povijesnih kamenoloma na bliæa ili udaljena odredišta, u Dubrovnik s KorËule, u Split s BraËa, u Atenu iz Pentelikona, u Veneciju iz Istre. Graditeljska djela sagraena iz kamena podneblja otoka BraËa pokazuju nadahnute primjere umjetniËkog iskaza; pustinja Blaca saæimlje se u molitvu, Dioklecijanova palaËa prkosi snagom dostojanstva upuÊenog moru i kopnu, trogirska i šibenska katedrala uzviπeno streme nebu, a dræavniËki se poslovi odvijaju u kamenim zdanjima Bijele kuÊe u Washingtonu te parlamentima BeËa i Budimpeπte.

Kamen se pretvara u posebnu sveËanost kada se od njega oblikuju zaglavlja, bifore, rozete i zvonici, arkade i crkve, krajputaπi, kameni temeljci, balustrade, zdenci, mlinovi i krstionice.

U njemu je oduvijek titrao æivot, koji se Ëesto izraæavao i kao kakav okamenjen mir u koji se teπko dopire i slabo razumije. U toj dubokoj i tvarnoj tiπini pohranjena je i zarobljena svjetlost sunca, uznesena tvar od koje nastaje i drago kamenje, meu kojima dijamant, taj najtvri mineral izvorne i velike ljepote, izgleda kao kristaliziran san neke daleke zvijezde.

Kamen je oduvijek bio i umjetniËki izazov.

Klesarstvo, graditeljstvo i kiparstvo njegova su djeca kojoj se redovito s povjerenjem predaje.

Kameno kiparstvo poezija je otkriÊa sadræaja, koje se klesanjem oslobaa od tereta svoje zarobljene obloge. Baπ zato, za razliku od slikarstva, kiparstvo ima i svoju treÊu, dubinsku dimenziju koja se moæe osjetiti dodirom ruke s razliËitih motriπta i percepcije promatraËa.

Na prostorima gdje je kopno, kao u sluËaju 64

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otoka, okruæeno morem ili gdje se djelomice stapa s njim, ljudi su upuÊeni na temeljito prihvaÊanje zakonitosti prirodnih elemenata zemlje, vode i zraka. Arheologija mediteranskog krajolika iskazuje povijest Starogradskog polja, koje se od 2008. godine nalazi na Uneskovoj listi svjetske baπtine, a potjeËe joπ od grËke parcelizacije znane kao Farovske hore, zatim rimskog agera coloniusa, koji je bio intenzivno naseljeno primarno gospodarskim imanjima. Joπ od davnina podruËje jadranske obale mukotrpno se obrauje, ograuje, omeuje, graniËno obiljeæava, krËi se i preslaguje zemlja, oslobaa od kamena, gdje je god to moguÊe.

Kamen je bijelosiva svjetlost koja isijava iz jadranskih krajolika. On je svjedok sjeÊanja, doticaj vremena kada su ljudi i Priroda bili u bliskijem srodstvu, kada se svaki novi dan doËekivao u povezanosti s novim izazovima, u tim raskoπnim i divljim prostorima mora i πkrte zemlje, u kojima se s mnogo muke, truda i volje izgraivao æivot nade. Na tim oskudnim vidicima kamen kao da je izaπao iz iste priËe.

Vjetar je nezaobilazni dio priËe o kamenu, moru, uvalama i portima, kamenim kuÊama i πkrtim poljima koja su se poπtivala i vlastitim znojem zalijevala. O vjetrovima se uvijek viπe govorilo nego o kamenu, moru i valovima. U predjelima gdje su vjetrovi uporni i uËestali, ljudi ih nasluÊuju, mudro tumaËe i najavljuju.

Dobro ih poznaju jer s njima æive, dotiËe ih njihova snaga, smjer, narav i Êud, miris i dodir.

Vjetar moæe huËati, zavijati ili pak milosno, Ëak umilno puhati. Jugo ili bura, maestral, nevera, πijun, πilok, levanat; mnoga su lica istog izvora boga Eola, razliËite snage, volje i namjere.

Onome tko se nae na putu vjetra jasno je da on oblikuje mnogo toga. Od njegove snage busenje i grmlje zaleæe pri zemlji, lome se maslinove grane, polijeæu borovi, presavijaju trsovi loze. Pod njegovom se snagom i naletima zemlja i pijesak povlaËe iz svojih skroviπta, udube stijene i zidovi kamenih kuÊa.

Kada je dobrostiv, daruje okolini miris kadulje ili ruæmarina te raznosi pelud brnistre, lavande i svega ostaloga πto se nae na mediteranskim obroncima s vidikom na more.

Narodno graditeljstvo na Jadranu istiËe slike jednostavnih vizura, dubokih poruka, velike i duboke svrhovitosti. Ono je nuæno povezano sa æivljenjem na πkrtoj zemlji u zajedniπtvu Ëovjeka i okruæja, u kojemu se boravi i od kojega se æivi. Na priobalju dugo se æivjelo od slane srdele, neke ulovljene ribe s krumpirima na leπo, katkad samo komada kruha sa sirom i Ëaπe bevande. Zatim neka suha smokva. I objed je gotov.

Kameni krπeviti tereni omeeni suhozidima i suhozidnim terasama s kamenim kuÊicama i

skloniπtima, spomenici su nadljudskih pothvata jedne ili viπe generacija narodnih graditelja, koji su stoljeÊima na naπim prostorima, posebice u 19., podizani neobiËnom pravilnoπÊu, iz visinske perspektive vidljivi kao neka mistiËna umjetnost sklada i svrhovitosti. Istarska Vodnjanπtina, srednjodalmatinski otoci sa Starogradskim poljem na otoku Hvaru te πire podruËje ©ibenika s arhipelagom, tri su izvoriπta kamenoga graditeljstva iznikloga iz narodne tradicije æivota na krπu.

Evolucijske mijene stvaraju æivotne navike, kao rezultat slijeda interesa πto su se raali i umirali na tim prostorima. Najprije su na njima boravili pastiri, koji su jadransku obalu i otoke poËeli krËiti, stvarajuÊi polja i suhozidne ograde, te su tako izrasli u pastire−teæake. SpoznajuÊi more, postaju ribari i, na kraju, vremenskim slijedom, danas osvanuπe kao ugostitelji.

Kamenom ograena polja bila su odreena za vinograd, krumpir i rijetke voÊke. U ogradama, ostalim povrπinama oko polja u krπevitim terenima, sadile su se masline i vinova loza. Takve kamene ograde graene su i na osami, πtiteÊi masline, katkad i neku voÊku.

UËiniti ogradu, znaËilo je najprije visokim zidom u suho ograditi teren, zasnovati krËevinu, pa onda krπu oteti i najmanji kus zemlje, svaku πkarpu prevrnuti, ne bi li se izvrtalo bar malo πkrte zemlje, radeÊi na æarkom suncu, u teπkoj suknenoj odjeÊi bez donjeg rublja. Alat: laπun, poluga, motika, sikira, kosir, kosiraËa, konistrica.

U poju i ogradi sve je uredno, prekopano, Ëisto, nema draËe ni korova. OËi se napasaju praskavim koloritom πto ga tvore sivkastoplavi kamen, smee krpe prekopane zemlje, zelenomodri buseni nasada, smokava, maslina, trseva, πarenilo cvjetova voÊaka, a prsa se pune intenzivnim mirisima zemlje, kamena, bilja, cvijeÊa i plodova. Od svega πto ispunjava prostor upravo su mirisi najimpresivniji; slikovito opisuje Ive Juraga Nadov u monografiji Kurnati.

Danas, napuπteni suhozidni krajolici odaju osjeÊaj kakve zamrznute priËe o Ëovjekovu æivotu, koji je nekada bio duboko uronjen u svoje okruæje s kojim je znao odgovorno gospodariti. U njemu su se ljudi prehranjivali, u njemu boravili te æivjeli izgraujuÊi svoje zajednice i obitelji.

Osnovna podjela jadranskoga kulturnog krajolika bila je na prostore paπnjaka i poljodjelstva, koje je dijelila potrebna granica, dinamiËna i promjenjiva, suhozidna, obrambena, neprobojna za one koji je ne trebaju prijeÊi. A to je stoka, koze, vol, magarci, koji bi je inaËe lako prelazili ulazeÊi u skromne vrtove namijenjene Ëovjeku i njegovoj obitelji.

Jadranski suhozidi i narodna kamena gradnja hrvatski je kulturni imetak velike vrijednosti.

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Tradicija protkana sjeÊanjima nosi emocije zajedniπtva koje su modernim vremenom zatomljene, naËinom æivota dijelom napuπtene, njegovom brzinom ponegdje i izbrisane. Ovi drevni spomenici, u svojim opisima bezbrojni i beskrajni, pozivaju danaπnje naraπtaje da ih prepoznaju kao imetak vlastita srca izrastao iz naslijea koje nije samo kulturno.

Narodna kamena gradnja ispunjena je djelima umjetniËkih ruku koje tada nisu poznavale pojam, izraz i nakanu umjetniËkog izriËaja. Te teæaËke ruke svojim su izvornim i intuitivnim znanjem gradile desetke i stotine metara suhozida ograujuÊi njime svoja polja, lokve i paπnjake, podiæuÊi kamene kuÊe, bunare i gustijerne, gumna, male porte, rive i muliÊe, 66

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vapnenice, mostove, ognjiπta, kapelice….

Osobiti su to i Ëudesni ljudski zahvati koji grade poπtujuÊi Prirodu, njezino dostojanstvo, ljepotu i izvornost.

Povijest vina i povijest kamena prepleÊe se otkad je Ëovjeka i vinove loze. Rijeke znoja prolivene su krËenjem vinograda. GromaËa je svjedok upornosti, lozin list znak Ëednosti, grozd znamen izobilja. Ondje gdje su berbe izdaπne i redovite, bilo je oduvijek æivosti, ludosti, pjesniπtva, istiËe Predrag MatvejeviÊ u svome Mediteransku brevijaru.

Hrvatska je bogata jadranskim vinogradima i izvrsnim vinima. U njima se vinova loza njeguje osobito njeæno. Na vrletima i padinama mnogobrojnih otoka i jadranske obale takvi vinogradi svjedoËe svoju ljepotu, snagu i dostojanstvo. Na mjestu gdje ih sunce kupa svojim zrakama, a more svojim aerosolima, izrasta groæe velike kvalitete i slatkoÊe. U vinima koja iz njih nastaju, zrcali se kristalna zraka iznimnih bukea. U suhozidnim prostorima vinograda koje su podizali naπi preci raste groæe kao ures, bogatstvo vinogradara, ali i podsvjesni simbol kulture i religije. Vino je i projekcija æei naπe duπe. Za vlasnika trsa vinograd je i æivotna sigurnost, temeljna vrijednost materijalne kulture. Vinograd Veliki Bucavac najpoznatiji je hrvatski suhozidni krajolik, a nalazi se iznad primoπtenske marine. Povijesno mlad, iskrËen sredinom proπlog stoljeÊa, ostao je simbol autohtone narodne kulture naslonjen na tradicijsku baπtinu te izrastao u krajolik koji je zaπtiÊen kao kulturno dobro.

Najstarije suhozidne graevine koje se nalaze na istoËnom dijelu Jadrana predilirske su i ilirske utvrde i grobnu humci poznati joπ i kao tumuli. Podizani su prije 3500 godina, a i danas njihovi ostaci svjedoËe svoj razlog i misiju postojanja. Mnoπtvo timula i sada se nalazi po vrhovima breæuljaka od Istre do Albanije, na naπem dijelu Jadrana, najviπe u Istri i sjevernoj Dalmaciji.

Hrvatski Jadran bogat je otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima; ima ih više od tisuÊu i dvije stotine. Poznata je i dokazana istina da ni jedno druπtveno ureenje ili geografska zadanost prostora, u antropoloπkom pogledu, ne sudjeluje u odreenju identiteta Ëovjeka kao πto to Ëini otok. Otoci imaju svoja pravila æivota, svoje zvukove i mirise, svoje posebnosti. Kopno nikada nije razumjelo otoke, ni obrnuto, jer ipak oni su samo njegov odvaæni dio koji je samostalno zaplovio u modrinu morskih puËina. Otoci su kao planeti koji u sebi sadræe mnogo svjetova, nevidljivih ljudima s kopna.

Nepotopljeni u moru, okreÊu se suncu. ©to im drugo i preostaje? Ispunjeni tradicijom koja πuti, otoËani na buduÊnost gledaju kao na ponovljenu proπlost.

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OtoËani znaju da je voda tvra od kamena, koji u dodiru s njom redovito gubi bitku. A takve bitke ne prestaju. Kiπa i more stalni su pratioci otoËnog oblikovanja, vanjskoga i nutarnjega.

Kamen na otocima vredniji je od kamena na kopnu. Dok kopno uvijek ima svoje zalee, put za ostvarivanje svojih potreba, otok nema tih moguÊnosti. Ono se mora zadovoljiti s onim πto ima na sebi. OtoËni suhozidi posebno su i pomno podizani. Kao i na kopnu, svaki dio pogodnog tla oslobaalo se za sadnju, sigurnosno se ograivalo. Osobita pozornost bila je usmjerena gustijernama i zdencima, kako bi se dosegla voda kiπnice ili voda rijetkog izvora. Kameni rubovi gustijerni natrljani vitlima, lancima i uæima kojima se izvlaËi vjedro, iskazuju svoju dob prostora. Mnogi otoci puni su prizora gustih suhozidnih linija kamenoga graditeljstva, koje iz zraka dojmljivo pokazuju da je jednina u razliËitosti jedina svrha za kojom Ëovjek treba teæiti.

Kao πto pËela ugleda neki za sebe poseban cvijet, tako je u poËetku 2002.godine, na otoku Visu, grupa mladih entuzijasta spoznala da je suhozidna gradnja neprocjenjiva baπtina prebogata razliËitim sadræajima. NadahnuÊe i snaga pokrenula ih je u sustavnu akciju obnove vrijednosti, istraæivanje i reaktualizaciju suhozidnoga graditeljstva na podruËju jadranske Hrvatske. Kroz udrugu Dragodid, koju su nazvali po istoimenom selu s tipiËnim kamenim kuÊama na sjeverozapadu otoka Visa, uspjeli su potaknuti ljude i institucije s pomnim inicijativama za prouËavanje i primjenu narodnoga graditeljstva, organizaciju suhozidnih graditeljskih radionica i pomaganjem obnove narodne kamene gradnje od Istre na sjeveru do krajnjeg juga u Konavlima.

Starosjedioci naπih otoka i obala, u davnini okupljeni oko ognjiπta iz kojega se probijao dim kroz ploËaste kamene krovove, ËekajuÊi svoj objed, priËali su priËe, koje su u mnogo Ëemu bile pouËne. U njima su bila iskazana iskustva s mora i plovidbi, rada u vinogradima i maslinicima, prisjeÊanja koja su Ëesto izricala neku pouku, zakljuËak ili vrijednosni Ëin proæivljenog zajedniπtva. Njihove ruke gradile su kamene kuÊe, mijenjajuÊi svoja okruæja, izgraivali sebe u jednostavnosti.

Jedinstveni ambijenti kamenih priËa iznova priËaju priËe o boravku Ëovjeka u miru i zadovoljstvu sa samim sobom, o Ëovjeka ponosnom na svoje djelo s kojim nije povrijedio Prirodu.

To je kamena poezija tiπine iz koje izvire Æivot. . an has always used his body and mind to explore nature; to create spaces that would be his home; to alter landscapes in a desire to make his mark

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on them as a sign of their conformability. Man is left with few choices in his effort to conquer environments dominated by stone, wind and sun. Whether he wants to or not, he has to learn that acceptance, adjustment and patient humility are the only approaches to achieving lasting cooperation with nature.

One can gain a thorough knowledge of history from stone, which was wisely-arranged into signs and signposts by ancient civilizations.

They gave it meaning; they drew and carved many messages into it; it’s a craft which demands a lot of patience and diligent study to this very day. Solutions to riddles and suppressed signs of life can be discerned in its deep structural layers from the fossil imprints of plants or ancient beings, which have been long gone from the sphere of our planet.

Jetties, light towers, breakwaters, piers, bridges, palaces − all are made from stone.

Stone was used as the building material for many towers and walls, fortresses and castles.

Architecture is an expression of rapturous inspiration placed in the hands of builders who construct various edifices for man − the purpose of each clearly varied, and which go beyond fortresses and ancient constructions.

Building stone was always carefully selected for different purposes and transported from 70

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historical stone quarries to more or less distant destinations: from KorËula to Dubrovnik, from BraË to Split, from Pentelikon to Athens, and from Istria to Venice. Buildings made from stone quarried on the island of BraË are inspiring examples of artistic expression: the Blaca hermitage calls for prayer; Diocletian’s Palace defies the sea and the land with its dignified might; the Trogir and ©ibenik cathedrals strive to reach Heaven and state affairs are pursued within the stone walls of the White House in Washington and the Parliament Buildings in Vienna and Budapest.

Stone becomes an extraordinary celebration when used to shape mullioned windows, rosettes and belfries, arcades and churches, roadside stones, corner stones, balustrades, wells, mills and baptisteries. It has always pulsated with life; it often appears as petrified peace, difficult to access and not easy to understand. This mysterious material captivates the sunlight, the elevated matter, which is the origin of precious stones, such as diamonds, the hardest minerals of genuine and exceptional beauty, which resemble a crystallized dream of some distant star.

Stone has always posed an artistic challenge.

Architecture and sculpture, the offspring of stone, surrender trustfully into the hands of the

stone mason. It is then that the stone reveals its poetic nature - when the carved sculpture is complete, and fully liberated from its restrictive outer covering. This is why, unlike painting, sculpting has a third dimension, which can be touched and felt from different standpoints and through different perceptions.

Where human habitats are surrounded by the sea, like on the islands, or in areas partly connected to the sea, people are forced to fully grasp and adopt the rules of nature − of the earth, the water and the air. The archaeology of the Mediterranean landscape is exemplified by the history of the Stari Grad Plain, which has been on UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 2008. Its origins go back to the division of land first known by the Greeks as chora, and then, Ager Pharensis, in Roman times. The area was intensely populated by farmers. Since ancient times, the Adriatic littoral has been painstakingly cultivated − the land fenced off, marked, cleared and moved; the stones removed from it wherever possible.

Stone is that whitish greyish light that shines through Mediterranean landscapes. It is a witness of remembrance, a conduit to a time when people and nature were more closely related, when every new day living off these splendid and wild spaces, dominated by the

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www.dalmatia.hr info@dalmatia.hr Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, 21000 Split, Croatia tel/fax: +385 (0)21 490 032, 490 033, 490 036

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sea and the sparse land, brought a new challenge or two, and whose inhabitants built a life of hope through hardship, hard work and a lot of goodwill. On these barren vistas, the stone appears to have emerged from the same story.

Wind is a quintessential part of the story of stone, the sea, bays and harbours, stone houses and the meagre fields which have been revered and doused in one’s own sweat. There have always been more stories about the wind than about stone, the sea and waves. Wherever winds are persistent and commonplace, people can predict their arrival, and foresee the nature of them. They know them well because they live with them; they are touched by their power, direction, nature, whims, fragrance and touch. A wind can roar or howl or it can blow gently, as if caressing its object. Jugo or bura, maestral, nevera, πijun, πilok, levanat − these are the many faces of the God Aeolus, which appear with varied force, willpower and intent.

Anyone who happens to find him- or herself standing in the wind’s path, appreciates how many things it can shape. Its strength bends bushes and shrubs to the ground; it breaks branches off olive trees; it fells pine trees, and breaks vines. Soil and sand are forced out of their shelters by its mighty onslaught; rocks and stone walls bulge inward. In its benevolence,

it perfumes the air with the fragrance of sage and rosemary; it bears the pollen of the Scotch broom, lavender and everything else that grows on the slopes of the Mediterranean seaside.

Popular Adriatic architecture is characterized by simple vistas, profound messages, and a sense of great purpose. Inspiration comes from living on meagre land, where man and his environment are one − a place to live on and a place to live off of. For a long time, Mediterranean staples were salted sardines, and fresh fish from the sea with boiled potatoes; only rarely would there be a slice of bread with cheese, a glass of wine mixed with water, and then, a dry fig for dessert. That was the meal.

Karst plots, surrounded by dry stone walls and terraces, featuring stone houses and shelters, stand as monuments and bear witness to the superhuman efforts of one or several generations of lay architects. For centuries, especially in the 19th century, they were built in a peculiarly regular way; from above, they look like a harmonious form of mystic art with a sense of purpose. The area around Vodnjan in Istria, the central Dalmatian islands, including the Stari Grad Plain on the island of Hvar, the area of ©ibenik and its archipelago are all three sources of stone architecture that spawned from traditional karst.

Evolution has changed the way people live because of a sequence of interests that have come and gone in these areas. The first inhabitants were shepherds who started clearing the Adriatic Littoral and islands, and created fields and dry stone walls. In the process, they became shepherds − labourers. When they learned about the sea, they became fishermen and finally, as time went on, they became restauranteurs.

Each plot had a purpose: one was to become a vineyard; the other was for growing potatoes and rare fruit trees. Most of the karst land, outside of the walled-in fields, was home to olives and grape vines. Stone walls were often built in isolated places to protect an olive grove, or a fruit tree or two.

Making a fence meant that one built a tall dry wall around a plot to mark a future clear area; then, even the smallest pellet of soil was seized from the karst, leaving no stone unturned to get to the little arable land that was left; farmers would toil under the scorching sun, in heavy woollen clothes without any underwear. The tools used were a LASUN, a bar, a hoe, an axe, a hedge-bill, a KOSIRACA, and a wicker basket.

The plot within the fence is neat: tilled, clean; there are no brambles or weeds. The eyes CROATIA AIRLINES

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feast on the explosive colorite, composed of a greyish blue stone, the brown patches of tilled land, emerald green figs, olives, vines, and the patchwork of blossoming fruit trees; the chest fills up with the intense fragrances of the soil, stone, plants, flowers and fruit. Among everything that fills up the space, the fragrances are the most impressive. This colourful description was taken from Ivo Juraga Nadov’s monograph on the Kornati Islands.

Plots surrounded by dry walls are abandoned; they conjure up old feelings of how man once lived, deeply immersed in the environment, which he managed with the skill of a responsible master. People fed on its fruit; they lived on it and built their communities and families around it.

The basic division of the Adriatic cultural landscape is the following: it is divided into pastures and agricultural land; the two were separated by a much-needed border − one dynamic and changeable, dry-walled, useful in defense, and impenetrable to those who were not meant to enter. And those intruders were cattle, goats, oxen and donkeys that would have trespassed onto the modest gardens intended for humans and their families.

The dry stone walls of the Adriatic and popular stone architecture constitute a Croatian

cultural heritage of exceptional value. It is a tradition, imbued with memories, which calls forth emotions of unity that have long been suppressed in modern times. Some have been abandoned due to the modern way of life, and some completely erased by its speed. These ancient monuments, countless and endless in their description, invite modern generations to recognize them as an asset of their own heart, arising from a heritage which is more than cultural.

Popular stone architecture is rife with works made by artistic individuals who were not at all familiar with the concept, expression and intention of artistic expression. These working hands relied on original and intuitive knowledge while building tens and hundreds of metres of dry wall; they built them around their fields, pools and pastures; they erected stone houses, walls and cisterns, threshing fields, small harbours, seaside promenades and jetties, lime kilns, bridges, hearths, chapels… All of these exceptional and amazing achievements show respect for Mother Nature, her dignity, beauty and uniqueness.

The history of wine and the history of stone have always gone hand in hand. Rivers of sweat have been spilled by people clearing land for their vineyards. Dry stone walls CROATIA AIRLINES

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bear witness to perseverance; the vine leaf is a symbol of chastity; the grape is a sign of exuberance. Where there are vineyards and wine, there is civility, artistry, lunacy and poetry, writes Predrag MatvejeviÊ in his Mediterranean Breviary, A Cultural Landscape, translated by Michael Henry Heim.

Croatia boasts an abundance of vineyards and excellent wine. It is here where grapevines are gently cared for. On the cliffs and slopes of numerous islands and along the Adriatic Littoral, these vineyards bear witness to their own beauty, strength and dignity. Grapes of exceptional quality and sweetness ripen in places where the sun bathes them in its rays and the sea in its aerosols. Wine which originates from this area gives off a fantastic bouquet.

Vineyards, planted by our ancestors, grow within fields surrounded by dry walls − they are ornaments, the viticulturist’s wealth and a subconscious symbol of culture and religion.

Wine is a projection of the thirst of our soul.

For the vineyard owner, his or her vineyard is also life security, an asset of material value and culture. The Veliki Bucavac vineyard is Croatia’s most well-known dry wall landscape, which sits above the Primoπten Marina. Young in historical terms, planted only in the middle of the last century, it has remained a symbol of authentic popular culture inspired by traditional heritage; its landscape is a protected cultural asset.

The oldest edifices built in the dry stone wall technique can be found in the Easternmost part of the Adriatic. These pre-Illyrian and Illyrian forts and tumuli were erected 3500 years ago.

Their remains bear witness to the reason and mission for their existence. Many tumuli can still be found on hilltops spanning the area from Istria to Albania, and in parts of the Adriatic, most of them in Istria and Northern Dalmatia.

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The Croatian Adriatic has an abundance of islands, islets and rocks − over 1200 of them all together. It is a known and proven truth that no social configuration or geographic boundary plays such a pivotal role in determining human identity as an island. Islands live by their own rules, with their own sounds and smells, and idiosyncrasies. The mainland has never understood islands and vice versa; after all, islands are the mainland’s courageous extensions which have set sail into the blueness of the sea. Islands are like planets containing many worlds, invisible to the people on the mainland.

Floating on the sea, they turn towards the sun.

What else can they do? Traditional islanders look at the future as a repetition of the past.

Islanders know only too well that water is harder than stone. When the two are confronted, stone always loses. And the battle is eternal. Rain and seawater are constants in the island-shaping process, both external as well as internal. On an island, stone is more appreciated than on the mainland. A mainland always has a hinterland, a road that leads to the satisfaction of needs; islands do not have this. They have to satisfy themselves with whatever little is on them.

Dry walls on islands have always been built very carefully and in a very special way. Like on the mainland, even the tiniest bit of fertile soil is cleared and planted, and then, secured with a dry wall. Special attention has always been paid to cisterns and wells, which would capture rainwater or collect water from very rare sources. Stone borders, worn out by the bucket pulling winches, chains and ropes, attest to their age and time period. Many islands are replete with scenes depicting dense rows of dry wall produced by stone masons. From the air, they clearly demonstrate that their

uniqueness lies in their variety, which is the only attribute worthy of pursuit.

At the beginning of 2002, a group of young enthusiasts on the island of Vis realized that dry stone wall architecture was a precious character oozing heritage, much like a bee that spots a very special flower. Inspiration and willpower motivated them to start systematically restoring such assets, to research and re-actualise dry stone wall architecture in the Adriatic area. Members of the Dragodid Association, in its namesake village in the northwestern part of the island of Vis, in which typical stone houses can be found, have managed to move individuals and institutions with their elaborate initiatives for the exploration and application of popular architecture. They have organized dry stone wall building workshops and thus, have helped the restoration of popular stone architecture, from Istria in the north to Konavle in the far south.

Long ago, while smoke hustled up through slate roofs, the natives of our islands and coastland gathered around their hearths and told educational stories while waiting for a meal to be prepared. They shared their experiences of sailing the seas, working in vineyards and olive groves − they were memories with a moral, a conclusion or a value judgement stemming from communal experience. They built stone houses with their own hands, changed their natural environments and created themselves in simplicity.

These stories have a unique ambiance and repeatedly speak of people living in peace and self-satisfaction, of people proud of their work, and of work, which has not been of detriment to nature.

This is the stony poetry of silence from which life itself springs.

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RIJEKE RIVERS

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Tekst i fotografije/ Text and photos Goran Šafarek

Svima nam je poznata ljepota Jadrana: bistro i Ëisto more, stjenovite obale sa starim kamenim gradovima. Ali more nije jedino bogatstvo Hrvatske, a rijeke su svakako jedno od najvaænijih. Slobodno moæemo reÊi da nijedna europska zemlja nema tako raznolike, a oËuvane rijeke.

There is no need to wax lyrical about the beauty of the Adriatic Coast: we are all familiar with the beauty of its translucent and clean sea and the sight of its rocky shores with old stone towns perched upon them. Still, you would be mistaken in thinking that the sea is Croatia’s only asset; rivers are certainly very important, so much so, as a matter of fact, that we can easily say that no European country has such diverse and well-preserved rivers.

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V

elike rijeke teku u nizini negdaπnjega Panonskog mora tvoreÊi prostrane bazene poput dravskoga, savskoga i dunavskoga. KrËe put kroz meku zemlju, njihovo se korito neprestano mijenja u prostoru i vremenu. Vijugaju poput zmija, to je osnova njihove dinamike. Malo-pomalo raste zavoj, ili meandar, zatim nepredvidive sile prirode odaberu drugi put, a meandar ostane odsjeËen od glavnog toka i postaje rukavac ili mrtvica. I tako stoljeÊima i tisuÊljeÊima. Naπe su rijeke, posebice Drava, saËuvale tu svoju prirodnu dinamiku. Velike europske rijeke veÊ stoljeÊima stenju pod okovima betonskih i kamenih obala, no hrvatske su rijeke joπ na æivotu. Zato u njima nalazimo rijetke i ugroæene vrste, pogotovo one koje se gnijezde na sprudovima. Crvenokljuna i mala Ëigra, kulik sljepËiÊ, mala prutka podiæu mladunce gotovo na golom πljunku. Isto tako vaæne su strme prirodne obale gdje vodomari, pËelarice i osobito bregunice buπe dugaËke tunele, na kraju kojih je gnijezdo. ZajedniËke kolonije u stotinama su parova. NajveÊa rijeka moÊni je Dunav, iako kroz Hrvatsku teËe samo stotinjak kilometara. Sve se nizinske rijeke viπe ili manje izlijevaju u poplavne πume i livade.

Najpoznatija su takva podruËja KopaËki rit i Lonjsko polje. Takva moËvarna staniπta srediπta su bioloπke raznolikosti, s tisuÊama Ëaplji, gusaka, pataka i ostalih ptica, stadima jelena i Ëoporom divljih svinja, a u poplavnoj vodi mrijeste se πarani, πtuke, smuevi…

IduÊi na jug, panonska nizina pomalo nestaje iz vidika, pojavljuju se prva valovita brda, a mekana zemlja ustupa pred tvrdim kamenom.

Voda je sve bistrija i hladnija. Æubor i prskanje sve su jaËi, i prerastaju u prave slapove. I Hrvatska se suæava ovdje, u svome srediπnjem dijelu, uklijeπtena izmeu Slovenije i Bosne i

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Hercegovine granicama koje tvore rijeke πto teku blizu jedne drugima, ponajprije Kupa, Korana i Una. Srediπnja toËka tog podruËja upravo je Karlovac, grad na Ëetiri rijeke, kroz koji teku Mreænica, Dobra, Korana i Kupa.

Zovemo ih i rijeke zelenog krπa, jer iako veÊim dijelom teku krπkim podruËjem, ipak su, za razliku od veÊine jadranskih rijeka, odjevene u bujno zelenilo zbog izdaπnih kiπa i debljeg sloja zemlje na okrπenoj podlozi.

Njihov tok ispresijecan je barijerama pa su to rijeke s dva lica: jedno je divlji svijet slapova, a drugo im je lice miran, gotovo stajaÊi svijet ujezerenih rijeËnih dijelova. Osobito su poznati slapovi rijeke Mreænice, na 64 kilometra toka ima ih Ëak stotinjak pa ova rijeka izgleda poput razvuËenih PlitviËkih jezera. Joπ neπto povezuje naπ najpoznatiji nacionalni park i Mreænicu, ali i ostale rijeke koje protjeËu krπem u Hrvatskoj, a to je sedra.

Taj prirodni fenomen polaganim otapanjem u vodi pretvara tvrdu stijenu koja gradi planine u glatku i πupljikavu te brzorastuÊu sedru.

Takvoj draæesti mnogi nisu mogli odoljeti pa su karlovaËke rijeke postale popularno odrediπte rekreativaca, posebice ribiËa, kupaËa, veslaËa…

Kako Hrvatska nema visokih planina, tako nema ni velikih planinskih rijeka. Vaæan razlog tome su i porozne karbonatne stijene koje grade te planine i kroz koje se sva oborinska voda lako gubi u podzemlje. Primjerice, Velebit ima tek nekoliko manjih izvora na onih stotinjak kilometara koliko se planina nadvija nad Jadranskim morem. Gorski je kotar bogatiji vodom zbog velike koliËine kiπe i snijega, te pojave nepropusnih stijena.

Zbog strmine, to su rjeËice i potoci s mnogo brzica, ali kratkoga toka. KamaËnik, Kupica i potok Curak kod Zelenog vira ponajbolji su primjeri za to. Skriveni su u dubokim kanjonima pa se voda nazire tek ako siemo gotovo do dna kanjona. Tu se vlaga dugo zadræava i omoguÊuje rast mahovina i paprati, koji potpuno obraπtaju stabla. Ljeto zato ondje odiπe spasonosnom svjeæinom, a ostatak se Hrvatske guπi u sparini. Kroz bistre i plitke vode izvrsno se ocrtava πljunËano ili kamenito dno preko kojeg katkad neopazice πmugne pastrva. Uz pastrvu, staniπte je to i lipljena, na radost velikog broja sportskih ribolovaca koji, vitlajuÊi ribiËkim πtapovima, vjeπto zabacuju umjetne muπice u sjeni stasitih gorskih πuma.

S druge strane, podnoæjem Velebita, Risnjaka i Velike i Male Kapele, protjeËe mnoπtvo ponornica kroz brojna krπka polja. Nestaju u ponorima, ali dalje teku podzemnim putovima, stvarajuÊi bogati svijet πpilja. Lika, druga po veliËini ponornica u Europi, kao i Gacka, PazinËica, Dobra, Dretulja i LiËka Ja-

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THE LIGHTNESS ESS OF BEING ISTRIA

Vina Laguna Malvazija This is the wine that truly defines the lightnesss of being Istria. Here, where Alpine and Medi-terranean climates meet in harmony, is thee home of the Malvasia Istriana grape variety, y, though it is also found across the Italian n border. There are many types (or clones) off this variety grown, particularly around thee Mediterranean, but here, on this most north-erly Adriatic peninsula, Malvasia finds its high h point: pure, bright, fresh and fragrant.

Mundus Vini , Spring taste, Neustadt 2014.

Vinagora, Budapest , 2014.

IWC London, 2013.

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gold medall silver medall bronce medall

senica, samo su neke od naπih najpoznatijih ponornica. Krπke rijeke opÊenito vrlo Ëesto imaju izvore u obliku malih gorskih jezeraca u kojima izviru duboki podzemni tokovi vode. Vrelo Kupe, Kupice, Une i KamaËnika reprezentativni su primjerci izvora takvog tipa kod kojih svjeæa planinska voda tirkizne boje izbija polagano i više od 200 metara duboko iz utrobe zemlje.

S primorske strane velikih dinarskih planina, rijeke otjeËu u Jadransko more. Nisu dugaËke kao rijeke crnomorskog slijeva, iako na putu u more mogu vrludati oko planina, kao πto Ëini Zrmanja. U samo sedam kilometara toka, Krupa pruæa takve zanimljivosti kakve se ne nalaze ni na mnogim naπim velikim rijekama − mnoge slapove, peÊine, jezerca, kanjon, stari sedreni most... Gotovo sve teku kroz krπku podlogu, Ëas kroz surove kanjone, Ëas bogatim, zelenim poljima u krπu, poput Cetine.

Katkad je teπko zamisliti odakle uopÊe voda u tako beæivotnom okoliπu. Krka i Zrmanja prave su oaze æivota u bespuÊu suncem ispræene i od bure ogoljele povrπine sjevernodalmatinske zaravni. ©toviπe, nalazimo i vrbe, topole, pa Ëak i lopoËe, trsku i ostalu moËvarnu vegetaciju. Ti moËvarni uvjeti nastaju zato što su rijeke Ëesto ujezerene sedrenim barijerama, preko kojih huËe slapovi. U nekim sluËajevima, kao na rijeci Krki, nastaju velika jezera poput VisovaËkog jezera. U Dalmaciji je sedra stvorila neke od najspektakularnijih slapova. Skradinski buk na Krki smatra se najduæim slapiπtem u Europi, a svakako i jednim od najpoznatijih i najposjeÊivanijih.

U tako specifiËnim i raznolikim uvjetima, u izolaciji prema drugim slatkovodnim tokovima i drugim sljevovima, u jadranskim rijekama razvile su se vrste æivih biÊa koje ne nalazimo nigdje drugdje na svijetu. Samo meu ribama ima 15 takvih endemskih vrsta.

Te rijeke djeluju gotovo nestvarno dok tako teku u dubokim kanjonima koje su same dubile tisuÊljeÊima kako bi, gotovo skrivene u svojim kanjonima, stigle u more preko estuarija i delti. Zapravo se granica mora i slatke vode teπko moæe odrediti - po dnu estuarija more se uvlaËi u zalee, a slatka voda teËe odozgo i u suprotnom smjeru. Ipak, jedna se rijeka opire takvom opisu: Neretva.

Ona u svojoj delti viπe ostavlja dojam tipiËne nizinske rijeke, samo da nema tih krπevitih planina i brda uokolo. Carstvo je to trske, ptica moËvarica i meke zemlje. Tu blagodat ljudi su davno prepoznali i naËinili poljoprivredni raj − mandarine, lubenice i ostalo voÊe s polica trgovina raste upravo ovdje.

Zbog blizine Jadranskog mora kao omiljenoga turistiËkog odrediπta, jadranske rijeke sve se viπe cijene u nastojanju da se

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posjetiteljima pruæe πto raznolikiji turistiËki sadræaji. Krka je, doduπe, odavno poznata zbog Visovca, Skradinskog buka, mlinica i kulturne baπtine. No u posljednje vrijeme i druge rijeke postaju sve traæenije, osobito za sportski turizam. Zrmanja i Cetina pruæaju adrenalinsku zabavu, a ostale uæivanje u prirodi i odmor od plaæe. Hrvatske rijeke stoga su biser ne samo Hrvatske, nego i cijele Europe! .

A

s they flow through an area of lowland that used to be the Pannonian Sea, the big Croatian rivers: the Drava, the Sava and the Danube, create namesake basins. Their beds constantly change shape and course in time while they make their way through the soft land.

Snake-like wiggling is the fundament of their dynamics. A bend or a meander keeps growing wider and deeper and then, the invisible forces of nature choose a different path, cutting the meander off from the main course and turning it into a side branch or an oxbow lake. This has been going on for centuries and millennia. Our rivers, especially the Drava, have preserved their natural dynamics. Unlike their European counterparts, whose shores have been confined by concrete and stone for centuries, Croatian rivers are still very much alive and kicking. That is why they happily serve as habitats to some rare and endangered species, especially those that nest on bars. The common tern, the little tern, the little ringed plover, and the common sandpiper all raise their young virtually on the bare gravel. Equally important are the eroded banks where the kingfisher, the bee eater, and particularly, the sand martin burrow long tunnels and build their nests at their ends. Their combined colonies number hundreds of couples! The biggest of the big is the mighty Danube, notwithstanding the fact that its flow through Croatia runs only a few hundred kilometres. Sooner or later, all lowland rivers become floodplain forests and meadows. The most well-known areas like this in Croatia are KopaËki rit and Lonjsko polje. Boasting a myriad of herons, geese, ducks and other birds, as well as flocks of deer and boar, these wetland habitats are centres of biodiversity where carps, pikes and pike perches spawn in the shallow water...

As we head south, the Pannonian lowland slowly phases out making room for the rolling hills, while the soft soil recedes before the hard stone. Water becomes clearer and colder. The gurgling and splatter get stronger and louder and finally, the river flows turn into a proper cascade. In the central part

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of Croatia, it becomes narrower, squeezing between Slovenia and Bosnia Herzegovina with the state borders running along rivers that flow close to one another: the Kupa, the Korana and the Una. The central hub of this area is Karlovac, a town with four rivers: the Mreænica, the Dobra, the Korana and the Kupa flowing right through it. They are referred to as the green karst rivers; for the most part, they flow through karstic areas, but, unlike a majority of the Adriatic rivers, they are clad in lush greenery owing to ample rainfall and a somewhat thicker layer of soil on the underlying karstic bed.

There are so many barriers to their flow that all of them show two different facets: one is a wild world of waterfalls, while the other is something of a stationary nature, reminiscent of a lake. Particularly popular are the cascades on the Mreænica River; around a hundred of them along the 64 km course make this river look like an elongated version of the Plitvice Lakes. There is something else that Croatia’s most famous national park shares not only with the Mreænica, but with all other rivers flowing through Croatian karst: travertine. As a result of an entirely natural process, hard mountain-forming rocks are dissolved in water and transformed into a smooth, porous and fast-growing travertine.

Many recreationists, particularly anglers, bathers and rowers, have been tempted by this abundance of charm and have made the rivers in the Karlovac basin very popular indeed.

Hardly boasting any high mountain ranges, Croatia does not boast any considerable mountain rivers either. An important underlying reason for this rather conspicuous absence is the porous limestone surface which easily absorbs all precipitation. For example, Velebit, which stretches for some 100 or so kilometres above the Adriatic Sea, features only a few water sources scattered here and there. Gorski Kotar is somewhat more abundant in water, owing to a substantial amount of rain and snowfall and to the impermeable rocky terrain. The steepness of the terrain means that the local rivulets and streams are fast but rather short. The KamaËnik, Kupica and Curak near Zeleni vir are the best examples. Concealed in deep canyons, they reveal their glittering watery surfaces only to those who dare venture near the bottom of their canyons. Heavy humidity lingers in the area for a long time, making the conditions conducive to the growth of moss and ferns, which completely cover tree trunks. This is what makes the summers in Gorski Kotar mercifully bearable while the

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rest of the country suffocates under sultry conditions. A pebbly or rocky bottom may be easily discerned through the clear and shallow water; every now and then, a brown trout is spotted gliding above it. The trout shares its habitat with the grayling, to the delight of many a happy angler seen here casting their artificial flies and swishing their fishing rods elegantly through the air under the shadow of tall mountain forests.

The karstic fields on the other side of Velebit, Risnjak and Velika and Mala Kapela are intersected by a number of subterranean flows (the lost rivers is what professionals call them). They disappear in sinkholes, but continue flowing under the ground where they create an impressive world of caves and potholes. The Lika, the second longest lost river in Europe, as well as the Gacka, the PazinËica, the Dobra, the Dretulja and the LiËka Jasenica, are only some of the well-known Croatian lost rivers. Generally speaking, karstic river sources are usually small mountain lakes featuring subterranean springs deep in their bellies. The Kupa, Kupica, Una and KamaËnik sources are cases in point: fresh mountain water of a turquoise colour emerges slowly from the belly of the earth as much as 200 metres deep.

The rivers on the coastal side of the impressive Dinara range flow into the Adriatic Sea. They are not as long as the rivers of the Black Sea Basin, although they may meander through the mountain on their way to the sea like the Zrmanja does. Along its short course of only 7 kilometres, the Krupa offers an abundance of features that even our most sizable rivers cannot match − numerous cascades, caves, little lakes, a canyon, and an old travertine bridge… Nearly all these rivers, 90

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the Cetina for example, flow through a karstic terrain, with rugged canals taking turns in abundant green karst valleys. Sometimes, it beggars belief that there can be so much water in a seemingly arid country. The Krka and the Zrmanja are true oases of life in the wasteland of the Northern Dalmatia plateau where the soil is pitifully scorched by the sun and dried out by the merciless bora wind.

There are willows, poplars, and even water lilies, reeds and other plant life typical of wetland areas. Marshy conditions are created around lake-shaped river widenings between two travertine barriers, a case in point being Visovac on the Krka River. Travertine has created some of the most spectacular Dalmatian waterfalls. Skradinski buk on the Krka River is considered the longest waterfall system in Europe, and certainly one of the better known and most visited ones. The specific and diverse conditions and isolation from other bodies of fresh water and water basins have produced some endemics, 15 among the fish alone, that cannot be found anywhere else in the world but in the Adriatic rivers.

These rivers look almost surreal as they rush through the deep canyons of their own making. They have been carving themselves for millennia as if to hide between their high walls before they finally reach the sea through estuaries and deltas. Actually, it is rather difficult to draw a clear-cut line between salt water and fresh water. Sea water creeps into the hinterland along the estuary bottom, while fresh water flows on top of it in the opposite direction. Yet, there is a river which defies such description: the Neretva. Its delta looks more like the delta of a typical lowland river − if there were no karst mountains or hills around it. It is a kingdom of reed, wetland birds and soft soil. People recognized its benefits a long time ago and turned it into a farming paradise; Tangerines, water melons and other fruit we see on our supermarket shelves are grown here.

The Adriatic Sea is a popular tourist destination, and its rivers are also being recognized by the industry as a welcome tourism resource. The Krka has been a holidaymaker’s must-see destination for a long time owing to Visovac, Skradinski buk, watermills and to a cultural heritage. As of late, other rivers have started claiming their share of fame, especially as destinations of choice for sport tourism. The Zrmanja and the Cetina provide opportunities for adrenaline-packed activities while others offer pleasurable countryside pursuits and a respite from the beach. Croatian rivers are true Croatian and European gems!

W

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Nachi svetiπte i vodopad/ The Nachi Shrine and Waterfalls

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MERIDIJANI MERIDIANS

Tekst i fotografije/ Text and photos Davor Rostuhar

Kad je u Japan doπao budizam, on nije istisnuo ili zamijenio stari naËin πtovanja viπe sile, nego se stopio s njim. »ak i danas, 1200 godina nakon toga, sinkretizam, πintoizam i budizam, dominirajuÊi su misaoni i duhovni sklop Japana. Tri velika svetiπta i bezbrojne staze koje ih povezuju meusobno i s raznih strana vode do njih, priznate su 2004. godine kao svjetska baπtina Unesca.

Razlog za dobivanje tog statusa i najveÊa vrijednost poluotoka Kii upravo je ta fuzija religija i razvoj kulture, na koje je utjecao bujan i raskoπan krajolik.

When Buddhism was introduced to Japan, it did not supersede or replace the old way of worshipping a higher power. Instead, it fused with it. Even today, 1200 years later, the syncretism of Shintoism and Buddhism is the dominant intellectual and spiritual characteristic of Japan. The three large shrines and the countless paths that interconnect them and lead to them from different directions were recognized in 2004 by UNESCO as a World Heritage site. The reason for obtaining such status and the Kii Peninsula’s greatest asset is precisely this fusion of religions and cultural development influenced by the rich and lavish landscape.

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P

HodoËasnik Katsu Ueno/ Pilgrim Katsu Ueno

Okuno in, staro groblje u Koya sanu/ The Okuno-in Cemetery in Koyasan

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rije nego što sam otputovao u Zemlju IzlazeÊega Sunca, Yasuo Yamamoto, japanski profesor i poduzetnik, koji je æivio u Zagrebu, rekao mi je: Ako æeliπ shvatiti Japan, moraπ razumjeti kako se budizam stopio sa πintoizmom. A taj se spoj nigdje nije dogodio tako potpuno kao na poluotoku Kii, gdje su bogovi siπli na zemlju. ©intoizam je drevna japanska animistiËka i politeistiËka religija, temeljena na mitologiji i πtovanju prirode, stara vjerojatno koliko i Japan. Ne poznaje svetu knjigu ni skup pravila, ali veoma cijeni ritualnu ËistoÊu.

U šintoizmu bogovi nisu vaæni, kaæe mi Mizumoto Naoyuki, Ëetrdesetdvogodiπnji sociolog iz Nachija, koji je obrazovanje stekao u Sjedinjenim AmeriËkim Dræavama, a doktorirao na usporedbi japanskog druπtva sa zapadnim.

Na Zapadu je Bog neπto mnogo, mnogo veÊe od Ëovjeka, a u Japanu je ponekad i manji od Ëovjeka. Zato je svejedno molimo li se jednom ili viπe bogova. U πintoizmu nije bitno to, bitan je put − dugaËak proces uËenja i shvaÊanja.

U tome je i najveÊa razlika izmeu Japana i Zapada. Zapadnjak ima odgovore ponuene u Bibliji, a Japanac ih mora sâm naÊi putem. ©intoizam to i znaËi. Shin-to. Bog i Put. Put do Boga. RijeË to dolazi od kineske rijeËi tao i oznaËava put, proces. Shin pak znaËi kami.

Kami je pojam neprevodiv na hrvatski jezik. RijeË je o boæanskoj duπi koja je u svim stvarima, æivim i neæivim. Kami su i stvari i biÊa, i ljudi i bogovi, i bezbrojni panteon japanskih bogova i svih drugih bogova raznih politeistiËkih i monoteistiËkih tradicija. Kami se nalazi u svemu, pa se takav može πtovati svuda, ali neka se mjesta ipak smatraju svetijima. Gdje se god neπto prepoznalo kao sveto, obiljeæilo bi se velikim vratima koja se zovu torii. Prolazak kroz ta vrata simbolizira prelazak u podruËje veÊe svetosti. Torii uvijek stoje na ulasku u πintoistiËke hramove, ali ponekad stoje sami za sebe ispred nekoga lijepog mjesta u prirodi.

Juæno od Kyota i Osake, na najveÊem japanskom otoku Honshu, smjestio se i najveÊi japanski poluotok Kii. On je sav obrastao u planine, πumu i maglu, a smatra se najvlaænijim podruËjem Japana. ©intoisti su od pamtivijeka vjerovali da su se bogovi najprije spustili na zemlju kod neobiËnog kamena u Kamikuri, u regiji Kumano, na jugoistoku poluotoka Kii. Otad nadalje, na Ëitavom poluotoku bogovi obitavaju u Ëarobnim slapovima, mistiËnim πumama, divovskome starom drveÊu, moÊnim planinama i slikovitim rijekama. Viπe od svega obitavaju u regiji Kumano, gdje su im ljudi podigli tri najveÊa svetiπta: Hongu, Shingu i Nachi.

Ljudi su od davnina hodoËastili do Kumana te, hodajuÊi, dobro utrli bezbrojne putove. »ak su i carevi iz Kyota nakon odraene dvorske

sluæbe, u mirovini, odlazili prehodati Ëitavo hodoËaπÊe. Neki od njih, opËarani duhom Kumana, ostajali su ondje do smrti. Tako se na poluotoku Kii razvilo niz hodoËasniËkih staza.

Staza Ohechi iπla je uza zapadnu obalu, a staza Iseji uz istoËnu. Staza Nakahechi dijelom je kratila put kroz unutraπnjost, a staza Kohechi iπla je cijelim putem kroz sredinu poluotoka, preko planinskih lanaca. Ta je staza najteæa, ali i najbræa te povezuje Koya-san s Kumanom.

Upravo je u Koya-san, 1200 godina prije, doπao budistiËki svetac Kobo Daishi i poËeo graditi samostanski grad. On je iz Kine u Japan donio novu sektu ezoteriËnog budizma. Od cara u Kyotu zatraæio je sveti komad zemlje na kojemu Êe okupiti redovnike da izuËavaju budizam, zapisuju mudrost i prenose tradiciju iz generacije u generaciju. Sve je tlo u Japanu sveto, rekao mu je car i dao ponajljepπi komad okolnih brda. Japanci su dotad mahom prakticirali πintoizam. No kad je u Japan doπao budizam, on nije istisnuo ili zamijenio stari naËin πtovanja viπe sile, nego se stopio s njim. »ak i danas, 1200 godina nakon toga, sinkretizam, πintoizam i budizam, dominirajuÊi su misaoni i duhovni sklop Japana.

Osim Koya-sana i trojstvenog svetiπta u Kumanu (Hongu-Shingu-Nachi) joπ je jedan dio svet na svoj naËin, a to je Yoshino. U njemu je središte asketske Shugendo sekte budizma, te do njega takoer vodi hodoËasniËki put − 170 kilometara dug Omino-Okugake-michi. Tri velika svetiπta i bezbrojne staze koje ih povezuju meusobno i s raznih strana vode do njih, priznate su 2004. godine kao svjetska baπtina Unesca. Razlog za dobivanje tog statusa i najveÊa vrijednost poluotoka Kii upravo je ta fuzija religija i razvoj kulture, na koje je utjecao bujan i raskoπan krajolik.

Na odreenim etapama ovog hodoËaπÊa valja razmiπljati o proπlosti, sadaπnjosti i buduÊnosti.

Tri su svetiπta posveÊena raznim elementima i vremenima.

Svetiπte u Honguu posveÊeno je zemlji i proπlosti, tim putem treba razmiπljati o proπlosti.

Put od Koya-sana prema Hongu dugaËak je 70 kilometara i nije nimalo jednostavan jer presijeca nekoliko planinskih lanaca poprijeko. ©uma koja prati putnika tako je svjeæa i drevna istodobno da Ëovjek u prvi mah zaboravi da se nalazi u jednoj od najrazvijenijih i najguπÊe naseljenih zemalja svijeta. Kameni bude, zvani jizo i kanon, pravilno rasporeeni, sluæe hodoËasniku kako bi se odmorio i na trenutak sabrao u meditaciji. Nepredvidiv put od Koya-sana do Honga pomalo podsjeÊa na veoma zanimljivu, i niπta manje prevrtljivu proπlost Japana. »itavo 17., 18. i pola 19. stoljeÊa, za vrijeme tzv. razdoblja Tokugawa, Japan je bio potpuno odsjeËen od ostatka svijeta, ali njime je vladala

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stabilnost i mir. Vrijedni i radiπni stanovnici okopavali su vrtove, nisu uznemiravali druge niti je itko njih uznemiravao. No, 1868. godine nastupila je nova, potpuno drugaËija faza u povijesti Japana, koja se sluæbeno naziva Meiji preporod. U svijetu kojim je tada vladala imperijalistiËka borba za kolonije, Japan se probudio i poæelio svoj komad kolaËa. Otvorio se Amerikancima i od njih pokuπao nauËiti sve o svijetu. ©intoizam je postao nacionalna religija, a car − Bog. Svojom posloviËnom predanoπÊu radu i odanoπÊu autoritetu, Japanci su brzo uhvatili zakaπnjeli vlak i u roku od nekoliko desetljeÊa tako se razvili što se svega tiËe da su bili spremni stupiti na scenu svjetske borbe za moÊ. Vojne pobjede protiv velike Kine i Rusije ohrabrile su ih toliko da su otiπli predaleko. U zloj maniji Drugoga svjetskog rata borili su se na strani negativaca. Atomske bombe baËene na Hiroπimu i Nagasaki potukle su ih i otrijeznile u trenu. Tako je zavrπeno ludo doba razdoblja Meiji i Japan se vratio na miran kolosijek. Ukinuli su vojsku i stali zagovarati svjetski mir. Opet posloviËnom predanoπÊu i upornoπÊu, te vrlo bitnim duhom kolektiva, kojim svaki Japanac tradicionalno osjeÊa da je dobrobit za zajednicu vaænija od njegova uspjeha, Japan se u roku od dva desetljeÊa poput feniksa iz pepela vinuo u visine. Iz ratom potpuno razorene zemlje, Japan je dospio na vrh, meu najrazvijenije i najuspjeπnije zemlje svijeta.

U Honguu put ide rijekom Kumano do Shingua, gdje je svetiπte posveÊeno vatri i sadaπnjosti.

Nakon πto bi stazom Kohechi ili Nakahechi drevni hodoËasnici doπli u Honguu, prvo od tri velika svetiπta Kumana, ukrcali bi se na drvene barke i nastavili rijekom 40 kilometara dug put prema Shingu. To je jedino rijeËno hodoËaπÊe na svijetu koje je na listi Unescove svjetske baπtine.

Ljudi danas rijetko plove rijekom, jer nizvodno od Hongua sagraena je brana, a uz rijeku cesta.

HodoËasnici najËeπÊe iz Hongua nastavljaju dalje pjeπice prema Shinguu ili Nachiju, rutama koje traju dva dana. Iako uz rijeku vijuga cesta, prometa je bilo malo. Priroda je mirna i spokojna.

Zelene πume prekrivaju sva okolna brda. Rijetko se viaju ljudi i bilo kakve graevine.

Rijeka teËe kao i vrijeme, pa na njoj valja razmiπljati o sadaπnjosti.

Japanci su u stanju stalne promjene. Japan je danas u procesu tranzicije, od stadija postizanja ekonomskog rasta i moÊne dræave prema zrelom i potpuno pravednom druπtvu.

Razumljivo, nastaje gubljenje i konfuzija, ali takoer ima i novih pozitivnih elemenata. Na globalnom planu, Japan ima problem sa dva faktora u IstoËnoj Aziji. Jedan je ekonomsko i vojno jaËanje Kine, a drugi nuklearne prijetnje Sjeverne Koreje. Japan je i dalje æestoki promotor mira i uniπtavanja svoga nuklearnog oruæja,

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Svetiπte u Koya sanu/ A shrine in Koyasan

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rekao mi je jasno Yamamoto pokuπavajuÊi doËarati sadaπnjost svoje zemlje.

Nachi, cilj putovanja i kraj hodoËaπÊa, posveÊen je vodi i buduÊnosti.

BudistiËki hram Nachi smjestio se odmah do πintoistiËkog hrama Nachi, a pozadinu krasi 133 metra visok istoimeni slap. Lokalno je πintoistiËko stanovniπtvo oduvijek vjerovalo da u tom slapu æivi boæanstvo koje su πtovali. Kad su u Japan doπli budisti, u tome su slapu vidjeli Budu, pa su tako πintoisti i budisti nastavili zajedno πtovati slap, sve dok se njihove tradicije nisu toliko ispreplele da se viπe ne moæe povuÊi stroga granica izmeu jedne i druge.

Iz glavnog dvoriπtu πintoistiËkog hrama pruæa se pogled na budistiËki hram i slap. Svaki Ëas iz πume iza hrama u dvoriπte stupi neki hodoËasnik. Tko zna kojom su od brojnih staza doπli i koliko su dana hodali, ali svi se ponaπaju sliËno. Doπli bi pred svetiπte, povukli konop koji bi oglasio zvono, ubacili kovanicu u drvenu kutiju, pljesnuli dvaput rukama, poklonili se dvaput, pljesnuli joπ jednom i otiπli a da nisu skinuli putnu naprtnjaËu. Objasnili su mi da zvuk zvona, kovanice i pljeska treba bogovima obznaniti da smo tu. Pitao sam je li to sve - nakon viπednevnog napornog puta, samo nekoliko minuta u svetiπtu, zvono, pljesak i gotovo...

Bitan je put, a ne cilj! mudro su mi odgovorili.

BuduÊnost, kako svega, tako i Japana, potpuno je neizvjesna. No, uzevπi u obzir razinu duhovnosti koju graditelji te buduÊnosti postiæu, te to da dobrobit zajednice stavljaju ispred vlastitog uspjeha, na svom cilju putovanja uspio sam im predvidjeti samo joπ veÊi napredak. .

B

efore my departure to the Land of the Rising Sun, Yasuo Yamamoto, a Japanese professor and entrepreneur who was living in Zagreb told me: If you want to understand Japan, you have to understand how Buddhism fused with Shintoism. And nowhere is this fusion so complete as on the Kii Peninsula, where the Gods had descended to Earth.

Shintoism is an ancient Japanese animistic and polytheistic religion, based on mythology and the worship of nature, probably as old as Japan itself. It does not have a holy book or a set of rules, but it especially values ritual purity.

In Shintoism, gods are not important, says Mizumoto Naoyuki, a 40-year-old sociologist from Nachi who received his education in the United States, and his doctorate in studies, comparing the Japanese society with the West. In the West, God is something much, much greater than a human, but in Japan, he is sometimes much, much smaller than a hu-

man. That is why it does not matter whether we are praying to only one god or more. It does not matter in Shintoism; what is important is the journey - the long process of learning and understanding. That is the biggest difference between Japan and the West. The Westerner has the answers provided to him or her in the Bible, and the Japanese person has to find them on the way.

That is the meaning of Shintoism: Shin-to. God and the Way. The way to God. The word to comes from the Chinese word tao and it represents a way, a process. Shin means kami. Kami is a term difficult to translate. It describes a divine soul which is found in all things, living and nonliving. Kami are both things and beings, both humans and gods, and a countless

Tradicionalna odjeÊa kakva se u Kyotu nosila prije tisuÊu godina/ Traditional clothes worn in Kyoto 1000 years ago Kinpusen-ji u Yoshinu/ Kinpusen-ji in Yoshin

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Prizori s jutarnje ceremonije u Koya sanu/ A morning ceremony in Koyasan

HodoËasnik na Kohechi/ A pilgrim on the to Kohechi path

Prizori s jutarnje ceremonije u Koya sanu/ A morning ceremony in Koyasan

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pantheon of Japanese gods and all the other gods of various polytheistic and monotheistic traditions. Kami can be found in everything, and as such, can be worshiped everywhere, but some places are still considered more sacred than others. Whenever something was recognized as sacred, it would be marked by large doors called torii. Passing through these doors would symbolize a transition to an area of greater holiness. Torii always stand at the entrance of Shinto temples, but sometimes they stand alone in front of a beautiful spot in nature.

Japan’s largest peninsula, the Kii Peninsula, is situated south of Kyoto and Osaka, on Honshu, the largest Japanese island. It is covered in mountains, forests and fog, and it is considered to be the wettest area of Japan.

Shintoists have always believed that the Gods first descended to Earth near an unusual stone in Kamikura, in the Kumano Region, in the southeast part of the Kii Peninsula. From then on, the Gods have dwelled in the magical waterfalls, mystical forests, gigantic, old trees, mighty mountains and scenic rivers throughout the entire peninsula. They mostly dwell in the Kumano Region, where people built three of the largest shrines for them: Hongu, Shingu and Nachi.

Since ancient times, people have gone on pilgrimages to Kumano and have paved countless paths by walking. Even the retired emperors from Kyoto traversed the entire pilgrimage route after having completed their royal service. Some of them, enchanted with the spirit of Kumano, remained there until their own death. Thus, a series of pilgrimage routes were created on the Kii Peninsula. The Ohechi route followed along the western coast, and the Iseji route followed along the eastern. The Nakahechi route partially cut inland and the Kohechi route ran all the way through the middle of the peninsula, across a mountain range. This is the most difficult path, but also the fastest, connecting Koya-san with Kumano.

Buddhist saint, Kobo Daishi, came to Koyasan 1200 years earlier and began to build a temple town. He brought a new sect of esoteric Buddhism to Japan from China. He requested that the emperor in Kyoto grant him a sacred piece of land on which he could gather monks who would study Buddhism, record their wisdom, and pass the tradition on to the following generation. All of Japan is sacred, the emperor said, and granted him the most beautiful part of the surrounding hills. Until then, most people in Japan had practiced Shintoism. Yet, when Buddhism was introduced to Japan, it did not supersede or replace the old way of worshipping a higher power. Instead, it fused with it.

Even today, 1200 years later, the syncretism of Shintoism and Buddhism is the dominant intellectual and spiritual characteristic of Japan.

In addition to Koyasan and the trinity of shrines in Kumano (Hongu-Shingu-Nachi), another region is sacred in its own way, and that is Yoshino. It is at the centre of the ascetic Shugendo Buddhist sect, and another pilgrimage route leads to it − the 170-kilometre-long OmineOkugake-michi route. The three large shrines and the countless paths that interconnect them and lead to them from different directions were recognized in 2004 by UNESCO as a World Heritage site. The reason for obtaining such status and the Kii Peninsula’s greatest asset is precisely this fusion of religions and cultural development influenced by the rich and lavish landscape.

At certain stages of the pilgrimage, one should think about the past, the present and the future. There are three shrines, each dedicated to various elements and time periods.

The shrine in Hongu is dedicated to the Earth and the past; on this path, one should think about the past.

The route from Koyasan to Hongu is 70 kilometres long and difficult as it cuts across several mountain ranges. The forest that accompanies the traveller is at the same time so fresh and ancient that one at first forgets that they are in one of the most developed and most denselypopulated countries in the world. The stone Buddhas, called Jizõ and Kannon, properly positioned, allow the pilgrim to rest for a moment and collect his or her thoughts in meditation. The unpredictable route from Koyasan to Hongu is somewhat reminiscent of the very interesting and equally fickle history of Japan.

The entire 17th, 18th and first half of the 19th century, during the so-called Tokugawa period, Japan was completely cut off from the rest of the world, but was ruled by stability and peace. Diligent and hard-working residents cultivated their gardens, did not disturb others, nor were themselves disturbed by anyone.

But in 1868, a new, completely different stage in Japan’s history started, officially called The Meiji Restoration. In a world which was then marked by an imperialist struggle for colonies, Japan woke up and desired its own piece of the pie. It opened up to America and tried to learn everything about the world from them.

Shintoism became the national religion, and the emperor − God. Thanks to their traditional hardworking nature and loyalty to authority, the Japanese people were late bloomers, but within a few short decades, evolved so much in every way that they were ready to take on the world scene and fight for power. Military victories against two superpowers, China and Rus-

sia, encouraged them so much that they went too far. In the evil mania of World War II, they fought on the side of the villains. The atomic bombs that were dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki defeated them and sobered them up in an instant. This was the end of the crazy Meiji Period, and Japan was back on a path of peace. They abolished compulsory military service and started promoting world peace.

Once again, thanks to their dedication and perseverance, and the highly important spirit of the collective, by which every Japanese person lived by, believing that the good of the community was more important than personal success, Japan soared to new heights, like a phoenix, from the ashes of ruin within two decades. From being a completely war-torn country, Japan reached the pinnacle of power as one of the most developed and successful countries in the world.

In Hongu, the route leads along the Kumano River to Shingu with a shrine dedicated to the fire element and the present.

After having followed the Kohechi or Nakahechi routes to Hongu, the first of the three major shrines of Kumano, the ancient pilgrims would board wooden boats and continue their 40-kilometre-long journey towards Shingu by river. It is the only river pilgrimage in the world that is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Nowadays, people rarely travel down the river because a dam was built downstream from Hongu and a road was built along the river. Pilgrims most often continue by foot from Hongu towards Shingu or Nachi, routes that both take two days to traverse. Although a road may meander along the river, there is little traffic.

The landscape is peaceful and calm. Green forests cover all the surrounding hills. People

Mladi redovnik u Nachiju/ A young monk in Nachi

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HodoËasniËki doruËak u hramskim prenoÊiπtima na Kumano Kodo/ Pilgrims’ breakfast in the temple’s overnight quarters on Kumano Kodo

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Prizori iz svetiĎ&#x20AC;ta u Koya sanu/ Scenes from a shrine in Koyasan

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Prizori iz svetiπta u Koya sanu/ Scenes from a shrine in Koyasan

HodoËasnik na svetim putevima Kumano Kodoa/ A pilgrim on the holy paths of Kumano Kodo

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and man-made constructions are rarely seen.

A river flows like time, so when traveling on the river, one should think of the present.

The Japanese people are in a state of constant change. At the moment, Japan is in the process of transition, from a stage of achieving economic growth and being a powerful nation, towards becoming a mature and entirely just society. Sometimes this leads to confusion, but there are also new and positive elements. On a global scale, Japan has a problem with two matters in Eastern Asia. One is the economic and military growth of China, and the other is the nuclear threat from North Korea. Japan is still an adamant promoter of peace and destruction of nuclear weapons. Mr. Yamamoto explained, trying to describe his country’s present state of affairs.

Nachi, the journey’s final destination and pilgrimage’s end is dedicated to water and the future.

The Buddhist Temple is located next to the Shinto Nachi Shrine and the background is adorned by a 133-metre-high waterfall of the same name. The local Shinto population has always believed that the divinity they worship lives in this waterfall. When Buddhists arrived in Japan, they saw Buddha in that waterfall, and so Shintoists and Buddhists continued to worship the waterfall side by side, until their traditions became so interwoven that it became impossible to draw a line of distinction that differentiated one from the other.

The main courtyard of the Shinto Temple overlooks the Buddhist Temple and the waterfall.

Every so often, a pilgrim would step into the court from the woods behind the temple. No one would know which route these pilgrims had taken, and how many days they had been walking. They all acted the same way.

They would come before the shrine and tug on a rope to ring the bell, throw a coin into the wooden box, clap twice, bow twice, clap once more, and then leave, without even lowering the rucksacks from their backs. They explained to me that the purpose of the sounds − the bell, coins, and clapping − was to let the Gods know that they were there. I asked if that was all − after several days of strenuous travelling, and only a few minutes in the shrine, there’s a ring, a coin, a clap, and that was it?

The goal is not important, but rather the journey! they answered wisely.

The future of everything, including Japan, is completely uncertain. However, given the level of spirituality that the architects of that future are reaching, and the fact that the good of the community is placed ahead of personal success, at my journey’s destination, I can only foresee even greater progress for them. W CROATIA AIRLINES

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»IKAT NAJLJEPŠA UVALA NA OTOKU LOŠINJU ZA JEDINSTVENI ODMOR! THE MOST BEAUTIFUL COVE ON THE ISLAND OF LOŠINJ FOR A UNIQUE HOLIDAY! Uvala »ikat jedna je od najljepπih i najintimnijih uvala na otoku Loπinju, koji je, zbog blagotvorne, mediteranske klime, joπ 1892. godine beËki dvor proglasio posebnim klimatskim ljeËiliπtem.

Poslije viπe od 120 godina Loπinj gostima pruæa novu dimenziju odmora u uvali »ikat.

U stoljetnoj borovoj πumi, samo nekoliko koraka od mora, smjestio se Bellevue, prvi loπinjski hotel s 5 zvjezdica, koji je dizajniran da ugodi i najzahtjevnijim ukusima. Gostima je na raspolaganju vrhunska SPA klinika podijeljena u Ëetiri tematske zone, kako bi se omoguÊila vrhunska udobnost te potpuno uæivanje u bazenima, predivnom SPA vrtu, relax zoni, tretmanima lica i tijela te fitness i yoga studiji. Vrhunski chefovi svakom Êe gostu priuπtiti izvanredno gourmet iskustvo pripremom delicija prema tradicionalnim, otoËkim receptima, s notom suvremene gastronomije.

Uz hotel Bellevue, u gustoj πumi alepskog bora i neposredno uz more, nalazi se vila Hortensia, stara austrougarska vila koja nakon obnove na razinu od 5 zvjezdica svoja vrata prvim gostima otvara u lipnju ove godine. S uslugama poput privatnog conciergea, kuhara i butlera te privatne plaæe, Hortensia postavlja novu dimenziju luksuznog odmora.

Luksuzna Alhambra, sofisticirani boutique hotel s pet zvjezdica i Ëlan prestiæne grupacije Small Luxury Hotels of The World, svoja vrata gostima

Êe otvoriti potkraj srpnja ove godine. Alhambra s vilom Augusta tvori jedinstveno mjesto na kojem se duh aristokratskog vremena savrπeno sjedinjuje sa suvremenom udobnoπÊu i vrhunskom uslugom, koja ukljuËuje iskljuËivo birane delicije i popis najboljih piÊa, kao i dodatne usluge, poput wellnessa u sobi.

PoËastite se luksuznim odmorom na Loπinju! »ikat is one of the most beautiful and most intimate coves on the island of Loπinj, which, due to its mild, Mediterranean climate, was declared a special climatic health resort by the Viennese court already back in 1892. More than 120 years later, Loπinj offers guests a new dimension of holiday in »ikat cove.

In the centuries-old pine forest, just a few steps from the sea, lies Hotel Bellevue, the first 5-star hotel on Loπinj, which was designed to please even the most demanding tastes. Guests have at their disposal the superb SPA clinic, which is divided into four thematic areas in order to provide superior comfort and complete enjoyment in the pools, wonderful SPA garden, relax zone, facial and body treatments, as well as fitness and yoga studio. Top chefs will provide each guest with an extraordinary gourmet experience, preparing delicacies according to traditional, island recipes with a hint of contemporary gastronomy.

In addition to Hotel Bellevue, located in a dense Aleppo pine forest and close to the sea is Villa Hortensia, an old Austro-Hungarian villa, which, after restoration to the 5-star level, is opening its doors to its first guests in June 2015. With services such as private concierge, chef and butler, as well as private beaches, Hortensia has added a new dimension to luxury vacations.

Luxurious Alhambra, a sophisticated five-star boutique hotel and member of the prestigious group Small Luxury Hotels of the World, will open its doors at the end of July of this year.

Alhambra together with Villa Augusta form a unique place where the spirit of aristocratic times combines perfectly with modern comfort and excellent service, which includes only selected delicacies and a list of the best drinks, as well as additional services, such as wellness in the room.

Treat yourself to a luxurious holiday on Loπinj!

Rezervacije i informacije:/ Reservations and information: Loπinj Hotels&Villas, Tel. +385 (0)51 661 101 www.losinj-hotels.com

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uvenir zahtijeva specifiËan dizajn: æelimo ga ponijeti kuÊi, æelimo da otkriva neπto o mjestu koje smo posjetili, æelimo da bude inovativan, drugaËiji.

Brojne su to æelje i pozdravi koje oËekujemo od dobrog suvenira, a hrvatska ih dizajnerska scena itekako poπtuje i osluπkuje. Daleko su hrvatski dizajneri otiπli od magneta za hladionik, danas imamo ponudu koja zasluæuje i internacionalnu promidæbu jer rijeË je o uporabnim stvarima − suvenir nije samo ukras i podsjetnik na neko putovanje, on je predmet koji je zanimljiv, pametno osmiπljen i promiπljen. Moæemo ga nositi, ulazi u sferu modnoga, produkt i dizajna pakiranja hrane, piÊa… − Suveniri su dugo bili zanemareni kao tipologija meu dizajnerima − komentira dizajnerica Ira Payer, dugogodiπnja predsjednica Hrvatskoga dizajnerskog druπtva − Ëak bih rekla stigmatizirani, zbog poplave kiËa koji je bio neminovno Ëvrsto povezan sa suvenirskim predmetima. No posljednjih godina dizajneri u Hrvatskoj upravo u proizvodima povezanima s turizmom pronalaze inspiraciju i njihovo zanimanje za tu temu rezultiralo je zaista izvrsnim meunarodno prepoznatim projektima, koji pripadaju tipologiji suvenira, a znaËajno odskaËu od uvrijeæenih kliπeja i stereotipa æanra.

Vaæno je i gdje se izrauju − kad pogledamo ispod, na etiketu, oËekujemo da je nastao ondje gdje smo ga i kupili, u suprotnome on nema duπu mjesta koje piπe na njemu, nema DNK lokalne kulture, nije autentiËan, nego je to samo joπ jedna stvar koja je, eto, proizvedena ondje gdje se sve jeftino proizvodi…

Upravo se ta stvar u Hrvatskoj poËela brzinski mijenjati, probudila se svijest o potrebi snaæne inicijative koja Êe pomoÊi ne samo imidæu neke europske dræave, nego i gospodarstvu i lokalnoj ekonomiji. Zanimljivo je i to πto i domaÊi ljudi kupuju suvenire vlastite dræave: mnogi od naπih dizajnerskih komada koje kuÊi nose stranci, krase i lokalne domove.

Vaæno je da i domaÊe stanovniπtvo ne samo prepoznaje, nego i cijeni i koristi se dizajnom svoje zemlje.

Kad je rijeË o suveniru, valja spomenuti tradicionalne obrtniËke proizvode koji su osobito dobra osnova za razvoj te kategorije proizvoda. RijeË je o spoju starog i novog − oni se sreÊu u ovoj niπi koja je zahtjevna na viπe razina, što je za autore vrlo poticajno: − Nekoliko je proizvoda što su nastali u suradnji obrtnika i dizajnera, koji su zaista duhovito i inteligentno interpretirani, kao πto je npr. kabanica Kaplja, inspirirana πestinskim kiπobranima, koju je dizajnirala Ana Rimac u suradnji s kiπobranarskim obrtom CeroveËki.

DIZAJN DESIGN

Piπe/By Dubravka Znaor PrpiÊ Fotografije/Photos Marija GašparoviÊ

Posljednjih godina dizajneri u Hrvatskoj upravo u proizvodima povezanima s turizmom pronalaze inspiraciju i njihovo zanimanje za tu temu rezultiralo je zaista izvrsnim meunarodno prepoznatim projektima, koji pripadaju tipologiji suvenira, a znaËajno odskaËu od uvrijeæenih kliπeja i stereotipa æanra.

In recent years, designers in Croatia have found their inspiration in tourism-related products, and their interest in the subject has resulted in truly excellent internationally-recognized projects belonging to the typology of souvenirs, which significantly stand out from the established clichés and stereotypes of the genre.

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Svjetlonosne forme/Light Bearing Forms Dizajn/Design: Superstudio u suradnji s Anom i Vjerom BakiÊ/Superstudio in collaboration with Ana and Vjera BakiÊ

Lightwear, Dizajn/Design: Nina BaËun i/and Roberta BratoviÊ

Iskrena vina MatkoviÊ/ MatkoviÊ Honest Wines Dizajn/Design: Miro »avar

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Ili torba (ceker) Rogoz, nastala kao rezultat prouËavanja izumiruÊe tradicije pletarstva Hrvatskog zagorja, Ëije su autorice dizajnerski kolektiv Oaza − istiËe Ira Payer. − ObrtniËki predmeti, ako su dobro izraeni i autentiËni, mogu nositi funkciju suvenira, no potpuno je jasno da je njihova egzistencija na træiπtu nesigurna, a to je neπto u Ëemu moæe pomoÊi lokalna ili dræavna strategija, poticaji i sliËno, odnosno sustav koji tim zanatlijama organizirano i strateπki pomaæe.

Hrvatska je ostala bez svoje industrije i gospodarstvo je dugo stagniralo. U zemlji osiromaπenoj ratom, gdje je kriza zakucala na mnoga vrata, dobar je dizajn postao ærtva, πto je rezultiralo izostankom strategije za razvoj ne samo proizvoda, nego i poimanja dizajna kao vaæne karike u tom lancu. No, dizajnerske su se snage pokrenule, agilne su i imaju neku novu energiju, pa se scena zapravo najednom razvila, stoga danas imamo brojne autore koji su cijenjeni ne samo kod kuÊe, nego i u inozemstvu. Mnogi od njih okuπali su se i u izradi dizajnerskog suvenira, iako to nije bila poËetna ideja… − Nova je generacija dizajnera poduzetnija, umreæena, bræa, hrabrija − kaže Ira. − Današnja je dizajnerska scena u Hrvatskoj vrlo zanimljiva i æivopisna, zbog poduzetnosti dizajnera i njihove samoiniciranosti i samoproduciranih projekata te zaista rijetkih poduzetnika koji ulaæu u design-driven biznise. S obzirom na to koliko se razvio u kratkom vremenu praktiËki iz pepela, mislim da ne pretjerujemo i ako govorimo o odreenom fenomenu hrvatskog produkt dizajna. − Fenomen suvenira i njegov status u 21. stoljeÊu − nastavlja Ira − u kontekstu dizajna i turizma, odnosno turistiËke industrije, destinacijskog marketinga i materijalne kulture turizma, osobito je zanimljiv i zacijelo Êemo se naveliko njime baviti u Croatian Design Superstoreu (nedavno otvoren u središtu Zagreba, okuplja najbolje od naπe suvenirske ponude, nap.a.) i preko radionica i natjeËaja usmjerenih na dizajn novih suvenira, kao suvremene reinterpretacije lokalnih obrta, autentiËnih proizvoda i tradicionalnih tehnika, ali uz poticanje koriπtenja novih tehnologija.

Danas kad je dizajn dio svake produkcije, kad je estetika visoko na popisu æelja svakodnevnog Ëovjeka i prisutna u naπim domovima i okruæju, vrlo je vaæno primijeniti upravo te aspekte na imidæ neke zemlje. U Hrvatskoj je procvala te scena, a suveniri su dio toga, pa je logiËno da, πire gledano, ni slika nekog odredišta nije potpuna bez dizajna. Iako mala, u odnosu na druge, Hrvatska moæe biti jedno od odredišta što svojim inovativnim proizvodima privlaËi paænju i postavlja se kao

lokalitet atraktivan upravo po inovativnim rjeπenjima koja kombiniraju tradicionalne tehnike i naprednu iskoristivost u svakodnevnom æivotu.

Croatian Design Superstore, koji je nedavno pokrenula dizajnerica Ira Payer zajedno s ekonomisticom Suzanom KošÊak, originalni je koncept koji afirmira hrvatski dizajn kao znaËajan segment domaÊe kulturne i kreativne industrije, turistima pruæa kvalitetan i atraktivan sadræaj, a istodobno je relevantan lokalnoj zajednici jer nudi cjeloviti pregled i konkretnu træiπnu ponudu najboljega od suvremenoga hrvatskog dizajna na jednome mjestu. − Reakcije dizajnera i posjetitelja viπe su nego pozitivne − napominje Ira. − Impresivno je vidjeti hrvatski dizajn na jednome mjestu, u atraktivno ureenom prostoru. Turisti koji nas posjeÊuju oduπevljeni su, jer selekcijom najboljega hrvatskog dizajna dobivaju uvid u kreativnu klasu Hrvatske, koja zaista nudi kvalitetnu i prosperitetnu sliku Zagreba i Hrvatske. .

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souvenir requires a specific design: we wish to take it home; we want it to reveal something about the place we visited; we want it to be innovative, different. Numerous wishes and expectations are attached to a good souvenir, and the Croatian designer scene greatly respects these items and pays attention to them. Croatian designers have come a long way from designing fridge magnets; nowadays, we have an assortment that deserves international promotion because these are useful objects: a souvenir is not merely an ornament or a reminder of a trip, it is an item that is interesting, cleverly-designed, and carefully thought out.

We can carry it; it has become a part of the field of fashion and product design, and food and beverage packaging design... − Souvenirs have long been neglected as a typology among designers, says designer Ira Payer, longtime president of the Croatian Designers Society. − I would even say stigmatized due to the saturation of kitsch, which used to be closely linked to souvenir items. But in recent years, designers in Croatia have found their inspiration in tourism-related products, and their interest in the subject has resulted in truly excellent internationally-recognized projects belonging to the typology of souvenirs, which significantly stand out from the established clichés and stereotypes of the genre.

Where they are created is also important. − When we read the label, we expect to see that the souvenir was created at the place of purchase, otherwise it does not have the

Ekolica, Dizajn/Design: Veronika Gamulin

Anek kuhinjske tkanine/ Anek Kitchen Textiles, Ilustracije i dizajn/Illustrations and design: Ana Æaja Petrak

Traveller, Dizajn/Design: Ana TevπiÊ

KuÊice/Small Houses, Dizajn/Design: Orsat FrankoviÊ, ilustracije/Illustrations: Pero MrnareviÊ CROATIA AIRLINES

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Croatia - As It Is, Dizajn/Design: Superstudio

Rogoz, Dizajn/Design: Oaza

Oblo, Dizajn/Design: Marko PavloviÊ

Hommage à Remington, Dizajn/Design: Patrizia Dona

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Croatia à la carte,

Kaplja/A Drop,

Dizajn i ilustracije/ Design and illustrations: Superstudio

Dizajn/ Design: Ana Rimac

So, Dizajn/Design: Nina BaËun i/and Goran JovanoviÊ

Boya, Dizajn/Design: Maja MesiÊ CROATIA AIRLINES

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soul of the place written on its label, it does not have the local culture’s DNA, it is not authentic, but is just another item produced at a low-cost manufacturing location... This very matter is starting to change rapidly in Croatia; an awareness of the necessity of a strong initiative which would not only help the image of us as a European state, but also the local economy and business. What is also interesting is that the local people buy their own country’s souvenirs. Many of our designer pieces, which foreigners carry home, also decorate local homes. It is important that the locals do not only recognize, but also value and use the design of their country.

When it comes to souvenirs, we have to mention traditional crafts, which represent a particularly good base for the development of this category of products because it is a combination of the old and the new. They meet in the middle, in this niche which is challenging on many levels. And this is very stimulating for the creators. − Several products have resulted from a collaboration of craftsmen and designers who represent truly witty and intelligent points of view, such as the Drop raincoat, inspired by the ©estine umbrellas, and designed by Ana Rimac together with the umbrella maker CeroveËki. Or the Rogoz (ceker) bag, created as a result of studying the dying wickerwork tradition of the Croatian Zagorje, which was designed by the Oasis designer collective, Ira Payer points out. − Craft items, if they are well-made and authentic, can serve as souvenirs, but it is clear that their existence on the market is uncertain, and that is something which can be supported by local or national strategy, incentives and the like, i.e., a system which supports the craftsmen in an organized and strategic way.

Croatia at one point lost its industry and the economy was stagnant for a long time. In a country impoverished by war, where crisis knocked on many a door, good design became a victim of circumstance, which resulted in the absence of not only a product development strategy, but also of the notion that design is an important link in this chain.

However, designer forces have activated the mselves; they are agile and have a certain new energy; suddenly the scene is developing so that today, we have a number of creators who are respected not only locally, but abroad as well. Many of them have also tried creating design souvenirs, although this was not the original idea... − This new generation of designers is more enterprising, better connected, faster, bolder, says Ira. − The current designer scene in

Croatia is very interesting and colourful, thanks to enterprising designers and their self-initiated and self-produced projects and to really rare entrepreneurs who invest in design-driven businesses. Considering the fact that it developed within a short time span, practically out of scratch, I think that we are not exaggerating even when talking about a particular phenomenon of Croatian product design. − The phenomenon of souvenirs and their status in the 21st century − Ira continues − in the context of design and tourism, i.e., tourism industry, destination marketing and material culture of tourism, is particularly interesting, and we will deal a lot with it at Croatian Design Superstore (recently opened in Zagreb’s city centre, which brings together the best of our souvenir selection) through workshops and new souvenir design competitions, as contemporary reinterpretations of the local crafts, authentic products and traditional techniques, while at the same time encouraging the use of new technologies.

Today, when design is such a huge part of production, when aesthetics are high up on the average person’s wish list and when design is very present in our homes and surroundings, it is important to apply these very aspects to a country’s image. Croatia bore witness to the bloom of this scene, and since souvenirs have always been a part of it, it is logical that, broadly speaking, a destination’s image is not complete without its design. Although small when compared to others, Croatia could be a destination which uses its innovative products to attract attention and set itself off as an attractive site to visit thanks to very innovative solutions that combine traditional techniques and advanced usability in everyday life.

Croatian Design Superstore, recently launched by designer Ira Payer, together with the economist Suzana KošÊak, is an original concept that affirms Croatian design as an important segment of the local culture and creative industry, and it offers tourists quality and attractive content, while at the same time being relevant to the local community because it offers a comprehensive overview of this specific market as well as the best of contemporary Croatian design in one place. − The reactions of designers and visitors have been more than positive − says Ira − It is impressive to see Croatian design in one place, on nicely-furnished premises. Tourists who visit us are delighted because through a selection of the best Croatian design, they gain insight into the creative class of Croatia which truly offers a quality image of Zagreb and Croatia as a whole.

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90 GODINA RASKOŠNE POVIJESTI HOTELA ESPLANADE 90 YEARS OF THE ESPLANADE’S FASCINATING HISTORY U poËetku 20. stoljeÊa dva najpoznatija hotela toga vremena postala su premala za sve veÊi broj putnika koji su stizali u Zagreb poznatim Orient Expressom. Kako bi se zadovoljile potrebe grada u razvoju, gradnja novoga, luksuznog hotela nametnula se kao prioritet. Hotel je trebalo sagraditi na πirokom terenu (πpanj. esplanade), u neposrednoj blizini æeljezniËkog kolodvora − tada jedine poveznice s Europom i ostatkom svijeta − koji je bio jedna od postaja slavnog Orient Expressa. Gradnja najveÊeg hotela u Zagrebu trajala je samo 26 mjeseci.

Na sveËanom otvorenju, 22. travnja 1925., okupilo se oko 200 uvaæenih uzvanika. Novinari su hotelu predviali blistavu buduÊnost na meunarodnom planu, a meu prvim gostima naπao se i gospodin Glück (njem. sreÊa), koji je pobudio nadu da Êe se predvianja i ostvariti.

A tako je i bilo. Uistinu, prvi se gosti nisu imali na πto poæaliti jer hotel je bio luksuzan, sofisticiran, veoma ugodan i opremljen najnovijim dostignuÊima suvremene tehnike.

NajËeπÊi gosti Esplanade bili su novinari, u neprestanoj potrazi za zanimljivim ljudima i dogaanjima. Otmjeni balovi koji su se prireivali u Esplanadi dugo su smatrani najveÊim druπtvenim prigodama u gradu. Ovaj najmodernije ureeni hotel u srednjoj Europi kroz svoju povijest privlaËio je mnoge poznate osobe, meu kojima su Josephine Baker, Charles Lindbergh, Orson Welles, Richard Burton, Elizabeth Taylor,

i brojni drugi. Dakako, bilo je i onih uvaæenih gostiju koji su u hotelu boravili incognito.

U poznatom sjaju, Hotel Esplanade, nakon 90 godina, nastavlja slijediti nadaleko poznatu tradiciju i visoke standarde vrhunske usluge, a inovacijama, svjeæim idejama i pomicanjem granica postavlja neke nove trendove u hotelijerstvu. Zbog svoje bezvremenske otmjenosti, elegancije i πarma kojima je davne 1925. privukao putnike poznatog Orient Expressa, i danas je elitno odrediπte te kulturna i povijesna ikona Zagreba.

In the early 20th century two of the most wellknown hotels of the time became far too small for the increasing number of passengers who arrived in Zagreb stepping off the famous Orient Express. In order to meet the changing needs of the city, the construction development of a new luxurious hotel imposed itself as a priority.

The hotel was to be built on a vast open field, close to the railway station − the once only link with Europe and the rest of the world - which was one of the stops of the prestigious Orient Express. The construction of the largest hotel in Zagreb took place over a mere 26 months. The opening ceremony, on 22 April 1925, drew over 200 distinguished guests. Journalists wrote words predicting a bright future at an international level, and among the first guests of the hotel was a Mr. Glück, (German for happiness),

which was an indication that this prediction was to come true. And so it was! Indeed, the first guests had no cause for complaint as the hotel was luxurious, sophisticated, and extremely comfortable, equipped with the latest advances of modern science.

The Esplanade’s most frequent visitors were journalists who were constantly searching for interesting people and attention-grabbing

events. The extravagant Esplanade balls were the most attractive of all, and were for many years the largest and talked-about social event in town. This most fashionably appointed hotel of Central Europe attracted many famous personalities, such as Josephine Baker, Charles Lindbergh, Orson Welles, Richard Burton, Elizabeth Taylor, and many of the distinguished guests chose to pass through the hotel incognito.

The Esplanade Hotel, after 90 years, continues to follow the well-known tradition and high standards of top-quality service and innovation, fresh ideas and pushing the boundaries setting new trends in the hotel industry. Its timeless elegance, sophistication and charm, which back in 1925 attracted passengers of the famous Orient Express, today is considered an elite venue and cultural historic icon of Zagreb. www.esplanade.hr

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Tekst i fotografije/ Text and photos TuristiËka zajednica grada Zagreba/Zagreb Tourist Board

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omantiËnu kulisu savrπeno sjedinjuju stoljetne kroπnje kestena, srednjovjekovne zidine, krajobrazna arhitektura i prilika da hrvatski glavni grad, zbog savrπenog pogleda na krovove zgrada Donjega grada, zavolite na prvi pogled.

MagiËna ljepota πetaliπta nadahnuÊe je mnogima tijekom cijele godine za dnevne ili noÊne πetnje i druæenja, a od 2000. godine na Strossmayerovu πetaliπtu svakoga se ljeta odræava i najpopularnija gradska manifestacija poznatija kao Ljeto na Strossu. Taj povijesni dio grada od kasnoga svibnja pa sve do listopada æivi 24 sata dnevno, i to na temelju programa koji privlaËi mnogobrojne stanovnike i goste Zagreba. Od prijepodnevnih sati pa sve do kasno u noÊ izmjenjuju se razliËiti umjetniËki i zabavni dogaaji poput, primjerice, likovnih radionica i kolonija, likovnih instalacija ukomponiranih na nenametljiv naËin u cjelokupan prostor, pa sve do izvrsnih i besplatnih veËernjih koncerata domaÊih i gostujuÊih bandova te niz zabavnih aktivnosti kao πto su doËek pola nove godine ili izbor za naj psa mjeπanca.

Sve πto se na Strossmyerovu πetaliπtu dogaa, svake godine oæivi cijeli Gornji grad, koji stoga postaje nezaobilazno mjesto za svakodnevno druæenje viπe tisuÊa posjetitelja. ZagrebaËki πarm i duh osjeÊaju se na svakom koraku, ali Stross nudi i daπak Pariza, BeËa, New Yorka... stvara æelju da mu se iznova vraÊate i pomaæe da Zagreb bolje upoznate, da se u njega zaljubite. Kulturnu ponudu u sklopu

Ljeta na Strossu dodatno obogaÊuje i enogastronomska ponuda izabranih hrvatskih vina, piva i hrane, πto je joπ jedan dobar razlog da posjetite zagrebaËki Gornji grad i barem na jedan dan postanete strosser. .

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omantic scenery in its perfection is created by the centuries old chestnut trees, medieval city walls, landscape architecture, giving one a chance to, for the fi rst time, thanks to breathtaking

view on the Down Town rooftops, fall in love with the croatian capital.

Promenade’s magical beauty has been an inspiration to many people for both day and night walks, and gatherings throughout

the year. As of the year 2000, Strossmayer Promenade each summer hosts the most popular city event − Summer on Stross.

Beginning at the end of the May, all the way till October, thanks to program that attracts

DesetljeÊima Strossmayerovo πetaliπte na zagrebaËkome Gornjem gradu slovi za jedno od najromantiËnijih gradskih mjesta na kojemu gotovo svaki stanovnik grada barem jedanput tijekom æivota daje svoju ljubav odabranoj osobi i prima je od nje.

For the decades Strossmayer Promenade in Zagreb’s Upper Town is considered to be one of the most romantic places in the city, where almost everyone in Zagreb has at least once shown affection to the loved one.

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many of Zagreb’s residents and guests, this historical part of the city lives 24/7. Starting in the morning and fi nishing late at night, various artistic and entertaining happenings take place, such as art workshops and colonies unobtrusively embedded in environment, along with brilliant and free of charge evening concerts performed by the local and guest bands, and numerous entertaining activities − Mid Year’s Eve or Mutt Dog Pageant.

All the events held on Strossmayer Promenade every year bring to life entire Upper Town, making it a place to be in terms of daily gatherings for thousands of visitors.

Zagreb’s charm and spirit are present all around. However, Stross is offering a touch of Paris, Vienna, New York..... it makes you want to keep coming back, and helps you understand Zagreb better, and eventually fall in love with it.

Cultural aspect of Summer on Stross is additionally enriched by eno-gastronomic selection of Croatian wines, beers and dishes, which is just another good reason for you to visit Zagreb’s Upper Town and, at least for a day, become a strosser.

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ZAGREB CARD Make ZAGREB CARD your irreplaceable travel companion in the capital of Croatia!

ZAGREB CARD offers you unlimited travel on public transport, discounts in the city museums, reduced prices at many restaurants, shops, and much more…

More information is available at: www.zagrebcard.½vestars.hr .

ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD

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RENDEZ-VOUS

Festival francuske kulture prije svega je, kao πto mu i ime kaæe, pri-

FESTIVAL FRANCUSKE U HRVATSKOJ THE FESTIVAL OF FRANCE IN CROATIA

jateljski susret dviju zemalja koji Êe omoguÊiti hrvatskoj javnosti bolje

∂ Kate Barry

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nije nepoznata, no vrijednost uspostavljanja dugoroËnih razmjena i dijaloga izmeu dviju zemalja, neprocjenjiva je.

The Rendez-vous Festival is primarily, as its name suggests, a friendly get-together of two countries, which will give the Croatian public an opportunity to acquaint themselves with the variety and richness of French culture; clearly, the value of establishing long-term exchanges and dialogue between these two countries is priceless. projekt Street art 2.0: Inovacija u srcu pokreta, fokusirana na nove forme koje bi uliËna umjetnost mogla poprimiti u buduÊnosti. Takoer, u organizaciji Hrvatskoga dizajnerskog druπtva u Zagreb dolazi dizajner i tipograf Jean-François Porchez, koji Êe voditi tipografsku radionicu s hrvatskim dizajnerima.

Publiku oËekuje i niz fotografskih izloæbi u Zagrebu i drugim gradovima, meu kojima se izdvajaju izloæbe slavnoga Magnumovog fotografa Marca Ribouda, francuskog konceptualnog umjetnika Philippea Ramettea te mlade francuske fotografkinje Maie Flore. Tu je i izloæba Glumice Kate Barry, te retrospektivna izloæba naslovnica francuskog Ellea.

Francuski filmovi imat Êe posebno mjesto na Elle Fashion Film Festivalu, Festivalu tolerancije, Motovun Film Festivalu, Vukovar Film Festivalu, a Animafest Zagreb nagradu je za æivotno djelo dodijelio francuskom redatelju Michelu Ocelotu.

Od glazbenih dogaanja izdvaja se Concert Spirituel pod vodstvom Hervéa Niqueta na Varaædinskim baroknim veËerima, a ZagrebaËke ljetne veËeri predstavit Êe dva sjajna francuska ansambla: Les Vents Français i Les Arts Florissants. U sklopu Cantusove koncertne sezone nastupit Êe Ansambl Variances, a koncertni ciklus Jazz.hr donijet Êe nastup virtuoza na akustiËnoj i elektriËnoj jazz-violini, Didiera Lockwooda.

Kultura i obrazovanje neraskidivo su povezani.

Izmeu Pariπkog konzervatorija i Odsjeka plesa na Akademiji dramske umjetnosti u Zagrebu uspostavit Êe se poËetak umjetniËke i pedagoπke suradnje.

Za dobar spoj glazbe, cirkusa i kazaliπta pobrinut Êe se ©pancirfest (Transe Express) i Festival novog cirkusa (Fall, Fell, Fallen u izvedbi Compagnie Lonely Circus).

Od dogaanja na otvorenome izdvajaju se veliki bal 14. srpnja na Trgu bana Josipa JelaËiÊa, besplatni koncerti francuske glazbe iza UmjetniËkog paviljona u Zagrebu u sklopu programa

∂ Maia Flore, Agence VU’ Atout France_Chafi’teau royal d’Amboise

Nakon uspjeha festivala Croatie, la voici, koji je u Francuskoj, u jesen 2012. godine, predstavio kulturnu baπtinu i suvremeno stvaralaπtvo Hrvatske, Rendez-vous Festival Francuske u Hrvatskoj, koji se odræava od svibnja do rujna 2015. godine, u cijeloj Êe Hrvatskoj tijekom viπemjeseËnog programa multidisciplinarnog obilježja s viπe od 150 dogaanja u 22 grada hrvatskoj publici predstaviti francusku kulturu u njezinoj punoj raznolikosti i bogatstvu, istodobno je upoznajuÊi s inovativnim dostignuÊima Francuske.

NastavljajuÊi se izravno na izloæbu Ivana MeπtroviÊa u Parizu u jesen 2012., festivalski program poËeo je izloæbom velikana moderne skulpture i jednoga od najznaËajnijih kipara 19. i 20. stoljeÊa, Augustea Rodina, u UmjetniËkom paviljonu u Zagrebu i Galeriji MeπtroviÊ u Splitu te izvedbom opere Pelléas i Mélisande Claudea Debussyja.

Nezaobilazna je i izloæba Normandija - raanje impresionizma, koja je postavljena u Muzeju likovnih umjetnosti u Osijeku, a Muzej suvremene umjetnosti u Zagrebu postavit Êe izloæbu o dramatiËaru, prevoditelju, pjesniku, esejistu i jednom od najznaËajnijih predstavnika nadrealizma, Radovanu IvπiÊu, Radovan IvπiÊ - nepokorena πuma. U rijeËkome Muzeju moderne i suvremene umjetnosti bit Êe predstavljena mlada generacija francuskih umjetnika na izloæbi nazvanoj Boîte-en-valise (Kutija u kovËegu), a Galerija KloviÊevi dvori ugostit Êe

upoznavanje raznolikosti i bogatstva francuske kulture, koja nam

Glazba i grad te manifestacija Nuit Blanche, koja Êe tijekom cijele noÊi, u suradnji s brojnim kulturnim institucijama i festivalima, ponuditi obilazak grada u ritmu umjetnosti.

Francusko-hrvatski forum ZajedniËkim naporima u rjeπavanju izazova klimatskih promjena, koji okupit Êe najznaËajnije svjetske klimatologe danaπnjice, istraæivaËe, kao i aktere civilnog druπtva.

Sport i gastronomiju, kao i turizam, sve ËeπÊe povezujemo uz pojam kulture i kulture æivljenja.

U sklopu Festivala pratimo niz sportskih dogaanja, od nogometa, veslanja, penjanja, koπarke, jedrenja pa sve do biciklizma. Osam vrhunskih francuskih penjaËa sudjelovat Êe u godiπnjem susretu na Paklenici, a u Zagrebu Êe se u povodu dolaska biciklista prvog Tour de Croatie otvoriti izloæba fotografija dogaanja Tour de France. Za velike i male gurmane bit Êe organizirane brojne aktivnosti poput piknika, kulinarskih showova, predstavljanja francuskih regija...

Bit Êe tu i susreta iz ostalih podruËja za ciljanu publiku: rasprave o europskim vrijednostima, suradnje o znanstvenom istraæivanju, razmjene iskustava s podruËja obrazovanja (prije svega struËnoga, primjerice iz hotelijerstva ili ugostiteljstva). Nije zaboravljeno ni gospodarstvo s raznim dogaajima s naglaskom na ulaganja u Hrvatskoj i u Francuskoj te susretima B2B (business-to-business) poslovanja.

Following the success of the Croatie, la voici festival which was held in France in the fall of 2012 and introduced to the French public the cultural heritage and contemporary creativity of Croatia. This year, the Rendez-vous Festival of France in Croatia is being held from May to September 2015, across Croatia, with over 150 events in 22 cities. The festival will present French culture to the Croatian public in its full diversity, introducing it at the same time to the innovative achievements of France.

With direct reference to the highly acclaimed exhibition of Ivan MeπtroviÊ, held in Paris in the fall of 2012, the festival programme opens with an exhibition of one of the most modern and important sculptors of the 19th and 20th century, Auguste Rodin, at the Art Pavilion in Zagreb and the Ivan MeπtroviÊ Gallery in Split, followed a few days later by the performance of the beautiful opera Pelléas and Mélisande by Claude Debussy.

Another must-see exhibition is Normandy −the birth of Impressionism, at the Museum of Fine Arts in Osijek, while the Museum of Contemporary Art in Zagreb is holding an exhibition about playwright, translator, poet, essayist and one of the most important representatives of Surrealism, Radovan IvπiÊ. At the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art in Rijeka, a new generation of French artists are presenting an exhibition called Boîte-en-valise (A Box in the Chest), while the KloviÊevi Dvori Gallery is hosting the Street Art 2.0: Innovation in the heart of movement project, focused on new forms that street art could take in the future. Also, designer

Nuit Blanche will offer throughout the night, in cooperation with numerous cultural institutions and festivals, a city tour in the rhythm of art.

The Zagreb Climate Forum will bring together well-known climatologists, researchers and civil society actors.

Sports and gastronomy, as well as tourism, are increasingly tied to the notion of culture and the culture of living. The festival boasts numerous sports events, from football, rowing, climbing, basketball, sailing to cycling. Eight top French climbers participate in the annual event at the Paklenica Canyon, while a photographic exhibition of the Tour de France will be shown in Zagreb to mark the arrival of cyclists in the first Tour de Croatie. A number of activities, such as picnics, cooking shows, presentations of French regional food will be organised for gourmets, big and small...

There will also be events of interest in other areas for targeted audiences: debates on European values, cooperation in terms of scientific research, and an exchange of experiences in the field of education (primarily professional, such as in hospitality or catering). In terms of economy, a variety of meetings will focus on innovation and investments in Croatia and France.

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Le concert spirituel d’Hervé Niquet ∂ Thierry Nava ∑ Spectacle Groupe F

Marc Dommage, ∂ Philippe Ramette, Courtesy Galerie Xippas

U suradnji s ostalim partnerima, festival organiziraju Ministarstvo kulture, Ministarstvo vanjskih i europskih poslova Republike Hrvatske, Francuski institut i Veleposlanstvo Francuske u Hrvatskoj. Glavne su izbornice Festivala Alemka Lisinski i Anne Coutard. .

and typographer Jean-François Porchez is coming to Zagreb to hold a typographic workshop with Croatian designers, all of which is being organised by the Croatian Designers Society.

Visitors will also have an opportunity to enjoy a number of photographic exhibitions in Zagreb and other cities, the most prominent of which being the exhibitions of famous Magnum photographer Marc Riboud, French conceptual artist Philippe Ramette and young French photographer Maia Flore. There is also an exhibition entitled Actresses, by Kate Barry, and a retrospective exhibition of Elle magazine covers.

French films take up a special place at the Elle Fashion Film Festival, the Festival of Tolerance, the Motovun Film Festival and the Vukovar Film Festival. Animafest Zagreb is honouring French director Michel Ocelot with a Lifetime Achievement Award.

In terms of musical events, the world-famous Concert Spirituel, conducted by Hervé Niquet, is performing during Varaædin Baroque Evenings, while Zagreb Summer Evenings is presenting two great French ensembles: Les Vents Français and Les Arts Florissants. The Ensemble Variances are set to perform during the concert season of Cantus, while the concert cycle Jazz. hr will be presenting virtuoso Didier Lockwood on the acoustic and electric jazz violin.

Culture and education are inextricably linked.

Artistic and educational cooperation will be established between the Conservatoire de Paris and the Department of Dance at the Academy of Drama Arts in Zagreb. ©pancirfest (Transe Express) and the New Circus Festival (Fall, Fell, Fallen, performed by Compagnie Lonely Circus) will be a nice blend of music, circus and theatre.

On 14 July, Zagreb’s Ban Josip JelaËiÊ Square will host a great Ball. In September, the event

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Gennaro Favai, New York, Lexington Avenue, oko/circa 1930.

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IZLOŽBE EXHIBITIONS Priredila/Prepared by Lana Šetka Fotografije/Photos Goran VraniÊ

Bela »ikoπ Sesija, Scena iz Apokalipse, Ëetiri jahaËa, 1903./ The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse, 1903

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zloæbeni projekt uglednoga talijanskog teoretiËara likovnih umjetnosti Giandomenica Romanelliija, koji je u proljeÊe ove godine predstavljen u Palazzo Roverella u talijanskom Rovigu, u srpnju Êe biti predstavljen i u Modernoj galeriji u Zagrebu.

ZagrebaËka izloæba, koju je Moderna galerija realizirala u suradnji s Accademijom dei Concordi, Fondazione Cassa di Risparmio di Padova e Rovigo i Talijanskim

institutom za kulturu u Zagrebu, pokazat Êe πezdesetak vrhunskih slikarskih ostvarenja nastalih na prijelazu s 19. u 20. stoljeÊe.

RijeË je o radovima Alber ta Mar tinija, Bartolomea Sacchija, Gennara Favaija, Odilona Redona, Gustava Moreaua, M. K. »iurlionisa, Franza Von Stucka, Marca Chagalla i Paula Kleeja, koji su za ovu prigodu posueni iz uglednih privatnih i muzejskih zbirki diljem Italije (Bassano del

Grappa, Lecco, Bologna, Milano, Padova, Saranno, Venecija), Francuske, ©vicarske, NjemaËke i Litve. Uza znaËajne europske, bit Êe predstavljeni i majstori hrvatskog fi n de siéclea, slikari vizionari u zoru proπlog stoljeÊa, Bela »ikoπ Sesija, Mirko RaËki, Gabriel JurkiÊ, Ignjat Job, kipar Ivan MeπtroviÊ, djelima iz fundusa Moderne galerije, i slikom Vlahe Bukovca iz KuÊe Bukovac u Cavtatu. .

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he exhibition is a project by distinguished Italian theoretician of fi ne ar ts, Giandomenico Romanellii, which was presented this spring at the Palazzo Roverella in the Italian town of Rovigo, and will be presented at the Modern Gallery in Zagreb in July.

The Zagreb exhibition, which came together through the collaboration of the Modern Galler y, the Accademia dei Concordi, Fondazione Cassa di Risparmio di Padova e Rovigo and the Italian Cultural Institute in Zagreb, will be presenting about sixty painting masterpieces from the turn of the 20 th century.

These are the works of Alberto Martini, Bartolomeo Sacchi, Gennaro Favai, Odilon Redon, Gustave Moreau, M. K. »iurlionis, Franz Von Stuck, Marc Chagall and Paul Klee, which have been borrowed for this occasion from several prestigious and private museum collections around Italy (Bassano del Grappa, Lecco, Bologna, Milan, Padua, Saranno, Venice), France, Swit ze rland, Germany and Lithuania.

Along with notable European masters, master artists of the Croatian fin de siécle, visionaries at the dawn of the last century, Bela »ikoπ Sesija, Mirko RaËki, Gabriel JurkiÊ, Ignjat Job and sculptor Ivan MeπtroviÊ, will be shown through works kept in the Modern Gallery’s holdings as well as Vlaho Bukovac’s painting from the Bukovac House in Cavtat.

W Bela »ikoπ Sesija, Scena iz Apokalipse, Ëetiri trube, 1903./ The Four Trumpets of the Apocalypse, 1903

Gabriel JurkiÊ, Put u vjeËnost, 1918./ Journey to Eternity, 1918

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Od 30. lipnja do 26. srpnja 2015.

From the 30th of June to the 26th of July, 2015 www.moderna-galerija.hr

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HOTEL NEPTUN, VRHUNSKO ISKUSTVO MEDITERANSKOG ODMORA THE ULTIMATE MEDITERRANEAN HOLIDAY EXPERIENCE Zeleni krajolik Mediterana, plave dubine Jadranskog mora, bijele obalne stijene i stara gradska jezgra samo su dio prirodnih ljepota i kulturnih znamenitosti što ih nudi grad koji se joπ od 1979. godine nalazi na Unescovu popisu svjetske baπtine. Svi oni koji se sami æele uvjeriti u jedinstvenost ljepote što je nude grad Dubrovnik i njegova okolica, koji æele iskusiti vrhunski odmor ili pak svoj poslovni boravak uËiniti πto ugodnijim, to mogu uËiniti u jednome od najljepπih dubrovaËkih hotela, Hotelu Neptun. Ovaj popularan hotel koji djeluje u sklopu Importanne Resorta smjeπten je na jednoj od najatraktivnijih dubrovaËkih lokacija, rtu Babin kuk na poluotoku Lapadu, na samo nekoliko koraka od prekrasnog Jadrana.

Dugogodiπnje iskustvo i profesionalnost Dugogodiπnja tradicija, vrhunska kvaliteta, profesionalna usluga te mnoπtvo zadovoljnih gostiju obilježja su hotela Neptun koji iz godine u godinu obogaÊuje svoju ponudu i prilagoava je najviπim svjetskim standardima. Premda Êe mnogi biti oduπevljeni veÊ pri prvom susretu s hotelskim sobama, oËaravajuÊim panoramskim pogledom na morsko plavetnilo, ali i mediteranskom okolicom hotela, svojim gostima hotel Neptun pruæa i mnogo drugih sadræaja, πto zabavnih, πto relaksirajuÊih.

Tehnoloπka i funkcionalna poboljπanja Nedavno je provedena temeljita adaptacija interijera Hotela Neptun, koja je obuhvatila implementaciju brojnih tehnoloπkih rjeπenja, poput instalacije pametnih hotelskih soba, energetski uËinkovitog sustava grijanja i hlaenja te instalacije efikasne rasvjete niske potroπnje i dugotrajnosti. Detaljnom reorganizacijom soba, interijerskim i funkcionalnim rjeπenjima, vrhunskom opremom te poveÊanjem povrπine odreenog broja soba postigla se znatno bolja iskoristivost prostora te je omoguÊeno postavljanje dodatnih leæaja prema potrebi. Hotel je zadræao 91 smjeπtajnu jedinicu uz ukupno 186

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leæaja, a velika paænja posveÊena je ureenju i opremi interijera svake sobe da se gostima, osim estetskog dojma, pruæi maksimalna praktiËnost, udobnost, funkcionalnost te moguÊnost relaksacije.

Velika udobnost uza spektakularne poglede Dizajnom i funkcionalnoπÊu sobe su prilagoene ugodnom boravku svih gostiju, kako sudionicima raznih kongresa, tako i onima koji traæe vrhunski odmor. Paæljivom reorganizacijom prostora stvorene su luksuznije i povrπinom veÊe sobe juæne orijentacije, s predivnim pogledom na dubrovaËke grebene. Glavni arhitekt zaduæen za adaptaciju hotela Neptun, Domagoj Smodila, i dizajnerica interijera Velinda MrπiÊ, koji su tvorci cjelokupnog rjeπenja, zadovoljni su postignutim, a ujedno naglaπavaju kako je kvalitetnom reorganizacijom, ali i integracijom osnovnih elemenata u jedinstveni stil, postignuta skladna, opuπtajuÊa atmosfera koja odiπe modernim stilom i komforom. U interijerima su upotrijebljeni elementi oplemenjeni prirodnim furnirima ili lakiranim povrπinama, sve u njeænim tonovima koji pridonose osjeÊaju prozraËnosti i nenametljivosti.

Efikasna rasvjeta Osobita pozornost posveÊena je i rasvjeti smjeπtajnih jedinica i zajedniËkih prostora, kako bi se stvorili ugodni i funkcionalni ambijenti. Sva ugraena rasvjeta temelji se na LED tehnologiji, Ëime se postigla znaËajna uπteda u potroπnji elektriËne energije i dugotrajnost. Sustavom pametnih soba i paæljivim konfiguriranjem zona, paljenje rasvjete u smjeπtajnim jedinicama gostima je omoguÊeno olakπano koriπtenje svih tehnoloπkih rjeπenja, ukljuËujuÊi i brzi Wi-fi internet koji je za sve goste besplatan.

Kongresna ponuda Importanne Resorta Osim vrhunskog odmora, Hotel Neptun svojim gostima takoer nudi i moguÊnost organiziranja poslovnih kongresa, konferencija, seminara i

drugih dogaanja. Treba istaknuti kako Importanne Resort, u kojemu se nalazi i hotel Neptun, raspolaæe s velikim brojem potpuno opremljenih kongresnih dvorana, Ëime je postao jedan od vodeÊih kongresnih centara u regiji.

Upravo spoj vrhunskoga relaksirajuÊega, poslovnoga i luksuznog ambijenta Hotel Neptun Ëine jedinstvenim izborom za obiteljskim putovanja, ali i organizaciju poslovnih i drugih dogaanja.

Green Mediterranean landscapes, the azure depths of the Adriatic Sea, white cliffs and the old town are just part of the natural beauty and cultural attractions offered in Dubrovnik, a city that has been on UNESCO’s World Heritage list since 1979. All those searching to witness and experience for themselves the unique beauty Dubrovnik and its surroundings has to offer, who want to experience the ultimate holiday or make their business stay more enjoyable, can do so in one of the most beautiful hotels in Dubrovnik − Hotel Neptun. This popular hotel, part of the Importanne Resort, is located on the most attractive part of the Dubrovnik coast, Babin Kuk, on the Lapad Peninsula, just a few steps away from the beautiful Adriatic Sea. Years of experience and professionalism A longstanding tradition of quality, professional service and over a decade of satisfied guests are just a few reasons that make Hotel Neptun so special; enriching and adapting its many services to guests has meant the hotel has managed to meet the highest world standards year after year. Guests will be thrilled at first with their hotel rooms, offering delightful panoramic views of the blue Adriatic Sea, as

well as with the Mediterranean surroundings.

In addition Hotel Neptun also boasts numerous other amenities that are both entertaining and relaxing, including boat tours of the surrounding islands, a la carte restaurants, a friendly beach bar, a full gym, and spa − just to name a few.

Technological and functional improvements Hotel Neptun has recently undergone an extensive interior renovation, including the implementation of several technological additions, such as the installation of smart hotel rooms, energy-efficient heating and cooling systems, as well as efficient lighting. A significantly better use of space and additional bed capabilities were achieved through total room reorganization, which included the professional services of an interior designer as well as the installation of top-quality equipment.

The hotel has maintained a total number of 91 relaxing units with a total of 186 luxurious beds. Each room, with its attention to detail, is not only esthetically-pleasing, but delivers maximum convenience, comfort, functionality and relaxation for guests unwinding on a well-deserved vacation, away from work and business obligations.

Exceptional comfort and spectacular views The design and functionality of the rooms have been adapted to ensure that all guests have a pleasant stay, whether they are congress attendees or tourists seeking the ultimate Croatian holiday. A careful reorganization of space has created luxurious and spacious rooms with beautiful south-facing views of the city’s reefs.

The main architect in charge of the hotel’s adaptation, Domagoj Smodila, and interior designer, Velinda MrπiÊ, are satisfied with the results − at the success of achieving a harmonious, relaxing atmosphere that exudes a fresh, modern style and comfort. The integration of basic elements in the design has given the Hotel Neptun a unique style. The room interiors, decorated using elements of natural veneer and painted surfaces in soft tones, contribute to an airy, unimposing feeling; this, coupled with new furnishings, both maximize space and comfort.

Efficient lighting Special attention has been given to the lighting of each unit as well as to the common spaces, in order to achieve a pleasant and functional ambience. All of the lighting is based on LED technology, which allows significant savings in terms of energy consumption and longevity.

Thanks to the smart room system and careful lighting zone configuration, guests are able to easily use all the technological solutions, including high-speed WiFi, which is free for all guests.

Importanne Resort congress offer Besides a great holiday experience, Hotel Neptun also offers its guests the possibility of organizing business conferences, seminars and other events. It should be noted that Importanne Resort, of which Hotel Neptun is a part, has a large number of fully-equipped conference halls, making it one of the leading convention centers in the Dubrovnik region, merging ancient culture and beauty with modern convenience and necessity.

It is precisely the combination of its superior relaxing amenities, business functionality, luxurious ambiance and natural beauty that makes Hotel Neptun a perfect choice for a business conference or memorable family trip.

www.importanneresort.com Kardinala Stepinca 31, 20 000 Dubrovnik, Croatia T. +385 20 440 100 F. +385 20 440 200 E-mail: reservations@importanneresort.com CROATIA AIRLINES

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Zadnjega svibanjskog vikenda Rovinj je sasvim sigurno bio najposjeÊeniji, najpopularniji i medijski najprisutniji grad na svijetu. Rovinj je tih dana ugostio dvjestotinjak predstavnika svjetske turistiËke elite i struËnjaka iz cijeloga svijeta, ali i zaljubljenike u zrakoplove na Red Bull Air Raceu.

During the last weekend in May, Rovinj was most certainly the most well visited, the most popular and the most-reported-on-by-the-media city in the world. Rovinj was host to 200 representatives of the world toursism elite and experts from around the world, as well as Red Bull Air Racing fans.

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TURIZAM TOURISM Piše/By Ljudmila Burmistrova-JanËi Fotografije/Photos Hrvatska turistiËka zajednica/Croatian Tourist Board

UNWTO O

d 28. do 30. svibnja u Rovinju, tome prekrasnome te kulturom i povijeπÊu bogatome i zanimljivome istarskom gradu, odræala se 100.sjednica Izvrπnog vijeÊa Svjetske turistiËke organizacije − UNWTO. Na jubilarnu sjednicu pristiglo je 40-ak delegacija iz cijeloga svijeta, meu kojima je bio potpredsjednik Irana, ali i kolege ministri iz Brazila, Jamajke, Zimbabvea, Argentine, Azerbajdæana i Juæne Afrike.

Skup je odræan uz visoko pokroviteljstvo Vlade RH te uz suorganizaciju Ministarstva turizma, Hrvatske turistiËke zajednice, a na otvorenju je sudjelovao i premijer RH Zoran MilanoviÊ te, osim ministra turizma Darka Lorencina, koji je bio domaÊin skupa, i ministar pomorstva, prometa i infrastrukture Siniπa HajdaπDonËiÊ. Ministar Lorencin istaknuo je kako je rijeË o dogaaju koji je, osim velike turistiËke promidžbe za Hrvatsku, uvelike utjecao i na stvaranje slike o naπoj zemlji kao o odrediπtu koje, osim sunca i mora, nudi niz dodatnih sadræaja, a pogodno je i za odræavanje velikih meunarodnih skupova.

Meu stranim turistiËkim Ëelnicima svakako valja istaknuti glavnog tajnika Svjetske turistiËke organizacije UNWTO-a Taleba RIfaija, koji je tom prilikom naπemu magazinu prenio svoje dojmove o Hrvatskoj, odnosno Rovinju.

Rovinj je za jubilarnu, 100. sjednicu odabran proπle godine na sjednici UNWTO-a, koja se odræala u πpanjolskome gradu Santiago de Compostela, a to što su se u najuæem krugu za domaÊinstvo, uz Hrvatsku, nalazile i jake turistiËke velesile − Egipat i Jamajka, iskazano povjerenje naπoj zemlji Ëini joπ znaËajnijim.

Osim toga, domaÊinstvo jubilarne 100. sjednice veliko je priznanje i Ëast Hrvatskoj za sudjelovanje u radu Svjetske turistiËke organizacije, koje potvruje ugled naπe zemlje u toj vaænoj meunarodnoj instituciji. Izvrπno vijeÊe ima 31 izabranu Ëlanicu i ©panjolsku kao stalnu Ëlanicu (zemlja domaÊin tajniπtvu Organizacije). Sada vijeÊem predsjeda Jamajka, a potpredsjedavajuÊe su Mozambik i Hrvatska.

Osim radnog dijela, odnosno zasjedanja koja su trajala 28. i 29. svibnja, sudionici dogaaja mogli su uæivati u bogatome i zanimljivome popratnom programu koji je, izmeu ostaloga, ukljuËivao gladijatorske igre u pulskoj Areni, obilazak vinskih podruma, posjet aromatskom parku u Balama, izlet u NP Brijuni.

Taj zadnji svibanjski vikend donio je Rovinju, Istri, ali i cijeloj Hrvatskoj nezapamÊenu medijsku paænju i promidžbu meu postojeÊim, ali i potencijalnim turistima iz cijeloga svijeta.

Mnogo Êe turista, poslije pregrπt zbivanja koja su imali prilike doživjeti tih dana, sasvim sigurno poæeljeti vratiti se u naπu prekrasnu zemlju i ponovno osjetiti sve one gastro, kulturne, povijesne i ine Ëari u kojima su imali prilike uæivati u Rovinju. Ako niste bili neki od tih sretnika, ipak moæete uæivati u ljepotama i doæivljajima koje nudi Hrvatska i njezina odredišta tijekom cijele godine.

Osim u suncu i predivnome, bistrome i Ëistome tirkiznome moru, u Hrvatskoj moæete uæivati u mediteranskoj kuhinji, finim vinima, bogatoj kulturno-povijesnoj baπtini, autohtonom naËinu æivota, posebice na otocima, u prekrasnim dvorcima u unutraπnjosti, ali i zanimljivim manifestacijama. Popis raznih dogaanja, ali i

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svega πto Hrvatska nudi, od kulturnog, zdravstvenog, eno-gastro ili poslovnog turizma, moæete pronaÊi na stranici www.croatia.hr.

Svakako treba istaknuti − Hrvatska vas Ëeka.

Doite i uvjerite se sami zaπto je naπa zemlja sve popularnije i traæenije odrediπte meu putnicima iz cijeloga svijeta, koji traæe jedinstveni i drugaËiji doæivljaj na putovanju.

Taleb Rifai o Hrvatskoj Kakvi su vaπi dojmovi o Hrvatskoj kao zemlji, a osobito kao turistiËkom odredištu?

Kako biste opisali naπu zemlju turistima koji nikada nisu posjetili Hrvatsku? − Hrvatska je jedinstveno odredište blagoslovljeno osobitom prirodnom i kulturnom baπtinom. Kada sam prvi put posjetio Hrvatsku, bio sam vrlo impresioniran njezinim spektakularnim pejzaæima, prekrasnom obalom i povijesnim gradovima okruæenima zidinama, kao i izvrsnom gastronomskom tradicijom koju bi svi posjetitelji trebali iskuπati. Ja sam zaista uæivao u kuπanju hrvatske kuhinje koja ima poseban identitet i odraæava, kako geografski poloæaj Hrvatske, tako i njezinu kulturu i povijest.

Kakva je Hrvatska u usporedbi s ostalim mediteranskim zemljama? − Hrvatska je dragulj Jadrana i savrπeno ilustrira mediteranski naËin æivota zbog izvrsne klime, prirodnih ljepota i slikovitih gradova.

Jedinstvena je zbog više od tisuÊu otoka te bogate i duge povijesti, πto je vrlo atraktivno turistima. Danas je Hrvatska jedna od najbræe rastuÊih zemalja na Sredozemlju, koja utvruje poziciju regije kao jedne od najposjeÊenijih destinacija u svijetu.

Zaπto mislite da su Hrvatska i Rovinj, pokraj tako jakih i atraktivnih konkurenata (Egipat, Jamajka), uspjeli ugostiti 100. sjednicu Izvrπnog vijeÊa UNWTO-a? − Odluka da Hrvatska bude zemlja domaÊin 100. sjednice Izvrπnog vijeÊa UNWTO-a prihvaÊena je na prethodnoj sjednici Izvrπnog vijeÊa u gradu Santiago de Compostela u ©panjolskoj, a na velikoduπan poziv Vlade Republike Hrvatske.

Kao jedno od najpopularnijih turistiËkih odredišta u Hrvatskoj, Rovinj je idealan grad domaÊin sa svojom bogatom baπtinom i prirodnim ljepotama. BuduÊi da je stoljeÊima bio dio venecijanskog carstva, njegove su povijesne poveznice ostavile jedinstveno naslijee koje spaja hrvatska i talijanska kulturna i jeziËna obilježja. Prijaπnja su iskustva pokazala da biti domaÊin sjednice Izvrπnog vijeÊa pruæa domaÊinu izvrsnu priliku za promidžbu globalnoj publici.

Koji su aspekti turistiËke ponude odredišta najvaæniji za suvremene turiste i putnike?

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Taleb Rifai, glavni tajnik UNWTO-a/ Secretary-General, UNWTO

− Iako su motivi za putovanje sve kompleksniji, sve više turista traæi posebna, autentiËna iskustva koja izdvajaju njihovo putovanje od konvencionalnoga, vidi-sve-u-jednom-danu naËina putovanja. Kulturna su iskustva odliËan naËin prezentacije takve autentiËnosti preko posjeta mjestima kulturne baπtine, degustacije domaÊih jela i uranjanja u mjesne obiËaje koji odreuju kulturu i identitet naroda.

U tom smislu, Hrvatska doista ima sreÊu πto posjeduje takvu izvanrednu kulturnu baπtinu, upotpunjenu prirodnim ljepotama.

Opiπite u nekoliko rijeËi povijest UNWTO-a i njegovu vaænost za svjetski turizam. − Svjetska turistiËka organizacija (UNWTO) specijalizirana je agencija Ujedinjenih naroda ovlaπtena za promicanje odræivog turizma. Sa sjediπtem u Madridu u ©panjolskoj, UNWTO se trudi iskoristiti golemi potencijal turizma u poticanju gospodarskog rasta, inkluzivnoga druπtvenog razvoja i odræivosti okoliπa Darko Lorencin, ministar turizma RH/ Minister of Tourism, the Republic of Croatia

unapreenjem turistiËkih politika, znanja i tehniËkih projekata diljem svijeta.

Kakvu vrstu turistiËkih odredišta i odmora osobno preferirate? − Bio sam povlašten i posjetio mnoga odredišta πirom svijeta, a dragocjena lekcija koju sam nauËio na tim brojnim putovanjima jest ta da svako mjesto ima vlastita divna i osebujna obilježja koja ga razlikuju od drugih odredišta.

Osobno cijenim to što mi putovanja pruæaju priliku bolje upoznati razliËite zemlje i kulture.

Dojmovi sudionika o Hrvatskoj Ovo nije bilo samo dobro, nego izvanredno!

Najbolja sjednica do sada, iznad svih naπih oËekivanja! Hrvatska je zvijezda u turizmu, u to nema sumnje!, glavni tajnik UNWTO-a Taleb Rifai Hrvatska je jedna od najperspektivnijih turistiËkih zemalja u modernom svijetu, ministar turizma Azerbajdæana, Abulfas Garayev

Amfiteatar u Puli, borbe gladijatora/ The Pula Amphitheatre: Gladiator Games

Niπta me nije moglo pripremiti na ovo! Svime sam oduπevljen i jedva Ëekam da vidim πto nam sve Hrvatska namjerava pokazati!, ministar turizma i zabave Jamajke, Kenneth Wykeham Mc Neill Znao sam i prije dolaska da Hrvatska ima sjajnu povijesnu i kulturnu baπtinu te krasnu prirodu, no osobito su me zadivili ljudi. NeobiËno su topli, nasmijani i srdaËni. Pravi domaÊini, fasciniran sam, voditelj meunarodnih odnosa u Ministarstvu turizma Bahama, Earlston McPhee.

Ovo je moj drugi posjet Hrvatskoj. Svaki sam se put odliËno proveo, naroËito zbog prijateljski raspoloæenih ljudi. U Hrvatskoj se osjeÊam dobrodoπlo i sigurno, Ëelnik delegacije Sejπela na sjednici, Nico Barito. .

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n this beautiful and culturally and historically rich and fascinating Istrian town, the 100th session of the Executive Council of the World Tourism Organisation of the United Nations (UNWTO) was held. At the jubilee session, there were about 40 delegates from around the world, including the Vice President of Iran, and ministers from Brazil, Jamaica, Zimbabwe, Argentina, Azerbaijan and South Africa.

The meeting was held under the auspices of the Government of the Republic of Croatia and was co-organised by the Ministry of Tourism, the Croatian National Tourist Board... The

opening was attended by the Prime Minister of the Republic of Croatia, Mr. Zoran MilanoviÊ, and a number of ministers of the Croatian Government, in addition to the Minister of Tourism, Darko Lorencin, who hosted the meeting and the Minister of Maritime Affairs, Transport and Infrastructure, Siniπa Hajdaπ-DonËiÊ. Minister Lorencin said that this was an event that not only promoted Croatia touristically, but also greatly influenced the creation of an image of Croatia as a destination which, besides the sun and the sea, offers a range of additional facilities and is suitable for holding large international meetings.

From amongst foreign tourism leaders, the following should be singled out, as well as the Secretary-General of the UN World Tourism Organisation, Mr. Taleb Rifai, who talked to us about his impressions of Croatia and Rovinj.

Rovinj was selected to host the jubilee 100th session of the UNTWO Executive Council at last year’s session held in the Spanish Santiago de Compostela. The fact that Croatia made it through to the final selection for hosting the jubilee session and that it was considered alongside two tourist superpowers − Egypt and Jamaica − makes choosing Croatia all the more significant. In addition, hosting the jubilee 100th session is recognition and a great honour of Croatia for its participation in the work of the UN World Tourism Organisa-

tion, confirming the reputation of our country in this important international institution. The Executive Council has 31 elected members and one permanent member - Spain (the host country of the Secretariat of the World Trade Organization). Currently, the Council is chaired

by Jamaica while Vice-Chairs are Mozambique and Croatia.

Besides the working part of the session held on 28 and 29 May, the participants had the opportunity to enjoy a rich and interesting accompanying programme which included, amongst other things, gladiator games in the Arena of Pula, truffle hunting, wine cellar tours, visiting the Histria Aromatica Park in Bale, a trip to the Brijuni National Park and a cocktail reception in the Brijunka Villa, one of the summer residences of Josip Broz Tito and today a favourite destination of many actors, singers, directors and other world-famous celebrities.

The last weekend of May has brought not only Rovinj and Istria, but also the whole of Croatia unprecedented media attention, promoting them amongst the existing and potential tourists from around the world. After an abundance of experiences that they were given the opportunity to live through, a large number of tourists will most certainly want to come back again to our beautiful country and repeat those magic moments and fabulous gastronomic, cultural and historical experiCROATIA AIRLINES

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ences that they had the opportunity to enjoy in Rovinj. If you were not one of the lucky ones, you can nevertheless enjoy the beauty and experiences offered by Croatia and its destinations throughout the year.

Besides the sun and a beautiful, crystal clear and clean turquoise sea, in Croatia you can enjoy its Mediterranean cuisine, fine wines, a rich cultural and historical heritage, a unique way of life, particularly on the islands, beautiful castles in the inland, and interesting events and festivals. It is worth pointing out that. For a calendar of events or to learn more about Croatia, from culture, health, food and wine tourism, or business tourism, go to: croatia. hr. Croatia is looking forward to welcoming you. Come and see for yourself why our country has become an increasingly popular and sought after destination amongst travellers from around the world who are looking for a unique and different experience on their travels.

Taleb Rifai about Croatia What are your impressions of Croatia as a country and especially as a tourist destination? How would you describe our country to tourists that have never visited Croatia? − Croatia is a unique destination blessed with exceptional natural and cultural heritage. When I first visited Croatia, I was very impressed with its spectacular landscapes, beautiful coastlines and historic walled towns, as well as its excellent gastronomic tradition that I believe all its visitors should take time out to savour. I truly enjoyed tasting Croatian cuisine, which has its own distinct identity that reflects Croatia´s extraordinary geography, culture and history.

How does Croatia compare to other Mediterranean countries? − Croatia is a jewel of the Adriatic Sea and perfectly exemplifies the Mediterranean way of life with great weather, natural beauty and picturesque towns. It is unique because of its more than a thousand islands, complemented by a rich and long history which is a very attractive tourism draw. Today, Croatia is one of the fastest growing countries on the Mediterranean map, fortifying the region´s position as one of the most visited destinations in the world.

Why do you think that Croatia and Rovinj won amongst such strong and attractive competitors (Egypt, Jamaica) to host the 100th session of the UNWTO Executive Council? − The decision to have Croatia as the host country for the UNWTO Executive Council´s 100th session was adopted at the previous session of the Executive Council in Santiago 136

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»elnici delegacije 100. sjednice UNWTO-a/ Head of Delegation to the 100th Session of the UNWTO

de Compostela, Spain, and upon the generous invitation of the Government of Croatia.

As one of the most popular tourism destinations in Croatia, Rovinj promises to be an ideal host city with its rich heritage and natural beauty. Its historical ties as part of the Venetian Empire for centuries have left a unique legacy that merges Croatian and Italian cultural and linguistic attributes. As demonstrated in the past, hosting the Executive Council’s sessions provides the host with an excellent promotion opportunity to a global audience.

Which aspects in a tourism offer/destination are the most important for a modern day tourist and traveller? − Although motivations for travelling are increasingly complex, an increasing number of tourists are seeking out more distinct, authentic experiences that set their journey apart from the conventional, see-everything-in-a-day mode of travelling. Cultural experiences are an excellent way of bringing out this authenticity − from visiting heritage sites, tasting local food and immersing in local customs that are definitive of a people´s culture and identity. In this respect, Croatia is truly fortunate for having such an outstanding cultural heritage, framed by natural beauty.

Please describe in a few words the history of the UNWTO and its importance for the world’s tourism. − The World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO) is a specialised agency of the United Nations mandated with the promotion of sustainable tourism. Headquartered in Madrid, Spain, the UNWTO works to harness tourism´s immense potential in driving economic growth, inclusive social development and environmental sustainability by advancing tourism policies, knowledge and on-the-ground technical projects worldwide.

What type of tourist destinations and what type of holiday do you personally prefer? − I have had the privilege of visiting many destinations around the world, and one valuable lesson which I have learned from these extensive trips is that every place has its own wonderful and distinctive characteristics that distinguish it from the next destination. I personally treasure the fact that travelling gives me an opportunity to get to know different countries and cultures more deeply.

Impressions of participants on Croatia This wasn’t just good, but extraordinary!

The best session so far; it exceeded all our expectations! Croatia is, undoubtedly, a star when it comes to tourism! Secretary-General, UNWTO, Taleb Rifai.

Croatia is one of the most promising countries for tourism in the modern world, Minister of Culture and Tourism, Azerbaijan, Abulfas Garayev.

Nothing could have prepared me for this! I was impressed with everything and I can hardly wait to see what Croatia has planned! Minister of Tourism and Entertainment, Jamaica, Kenneth Wykeham McNeill.

I knew even before getting here that Croatia had a great historical and cultural heritage and beautiful scenery, but I was mostly impressed by the people. They were warm, friendly and always had a smile ready for you. Great hosts; I’m captivated, Head of International Relations, Ministry of Tourism, Bahamas, Earlston McPhee.

This is my second visit to Croatia. Every time I come, I have a great time, especially because of the friendly people. In Croatia, I always feel welcome and safe, Head of the Seychelles Delegation at the session, Nico Barito.

W

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ENOLOGIJA ENOLOGY

Konavosko polje/ The Konavle ямБeld

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Piπe/By Edi MaletiÊ Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

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azliËitih su obilježja, a najviπe ih je u Italiji, zatim u ©panjolskoj i Portugalu, a mi u Hrvatskoj imamo dvije − Malvaziju istarsku i Malvasiju dubrovaËku.

Istarska je poznatija i gospodarski mnogo vaænija, ali pravi biser, gotovo zaboravljena baπtina Konavala i Dubrovnika jest Malvasija dubrovaËka.

Uzgaja se ondje stoljeÊima, prvi spomen datira joπ iz 1383., πto je i najstariji podatak o nekoj hrvatskoj sorti vinove loze uopÊe. Ali, rezultati genetiËkih istraæivanja govore da tu sortu moæemo pronaÊi na raznim mjestima na Sredozemlju, πto otvara pitanje njezine autohtonosti. Nalazimo je na jugu Italije pod nazivom Greco di Gerace, na Siciliji kao Malvasiu di Lipari, a na Sardiniji pod sinonimom Malvasia di Bosa. ©panjolci je zovu Malvasia de Sitges (Katalonija), Malvasia de Banyalbufar (Baleari), te Malvasia de la Palma (Kanarski otoci). Podatak da se nalazi na raznim mjestima na Sredozemlju, pa Ëak i na Atlantiku (Kanari), govori o tome da su je πirili morem, a kako je dubrovaËka trgovaËka mornarica bila vrlo razvijena i svjetski poznata, ne zna se jesu li je u Republiku nekada davno donijeli pomorci, ili je pak nastala ovdje. Ali, u svim tim podruËjima uzgaja se odavna, nerijetko se navodi vrijeme prije Krista, pa se ne moæe sa sigurnoπÊu tvrditi odakle je krenula na svoj pohod. Kod nas se uzgajala na odrinama uz kuÊe i ljetnikovce dubrovaËke vlastele, dajuÊi uvijek visokokvalitetna vina, posebna i prepoznatljiva mirisa i okusa. Bila je vrlo cijenjena, prema nekim izvorima uzgajali su je mnogi, makar tek na odrinama. Imati vlastitu

Gotovo da nema ljubitelja vina, u svijetu i u Hrvatskoj, koji nije Ëuo za ime Malvasija ili Malvazija. To je jedan od najpoznatijih vinskih pojmova, nekoliko je desetaka takvih naziva koje nalazimo ponajviπe u mediteranskim zemljama. Tek rijetki znaju da pod tim imenima imamo razliËite sorte vinove loze, petnaestak prema sluæbenim podacima.

There is hardly a wine lover, in the world or in Croatia, who has not heard of Malvasija or Malvazija. This is one of the most renowned wine names, and there are dozens of similar ones that we come across, mostly in Mediterranean countries. However, only a few people know that these names refer to different varieties of vines − about fifteen, according to the official figures.

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Edi MaletiÊ

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Vinarija Crvik/ Crvik Winecellar

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Vinarija Karaman/ Karaman Winecellar

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Vinarija Crvik/ Crvik Winecellar

Vinarija Karaman/ Karaman Winecellar

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Malvasiju bila je stvar ugleda, a onima koji æene sina, to je bila i svojevrsna obveza.

Vrlo su zanimljivi podaci iz bogatog fonda DubrovaËkog arhiva, u kojemu su saËuvani brojni zapisi o Malvasiji. Da je bila vrlo cijenjena, potvruje i to što se vino nije moglo prodavati bez posebne odluke vlasti. O tome svjedoËi dokument iz 1385. godine, kojim dubrovaËki lijeËnik Bartolo de Piombino traæi od Velikog vijeÊa DubrovaËke Republike dozvolu za kupnju jedne kvinte Malvasije (5,5 L), i to, kako navodi, za potrebe zdravlja osobe svoje. Vrlo je znakovita i uredba iz 1424. godine, kojom se odreuju maksimalne cijene vina po krËmama, osim za vina Malvasije − ono se moglo prodavati po cijeni kako mu se svidi. Nadalje, u putopisu milanskog kanonika Pietra di Casole iz 1494. godine spominje se da DubrovËani imaju vrlo mnogo vinove loze, a prave dobre Malvasije i vrlo mnogo drugoga vina, te da je …odliËna Malvasija, kaæu bolja od one s Krete…. Sve su to jedinstveni podaci, kakvih naæalost nemamo o drugim sortama i vinima, koji Malvasiju dubrovaËku nesumnjivo svrstavaju meu poznate i najkvalitetnije sorte srednjega vijeka.

Iako joj kakvoÊa nije nikada bila upitna, sorta je veÊ nekoliko puta u povijesti gotovo nestajala, ali pojavljivala bi se kao Feniks iz pepela. Razlog je tome neπto veÊa osjetljivost prema bolestima,

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ali i gospodarske okolnosti koje joj nisu pogodovale − u tim su se krajevima Ëesto favorizirale rodnije sorte. Prije pedesetak godina opala je na samo nekoliko trsova, pa je uspjeπno revitalizirana, a onda su opet posljednji rat i okupacija dubrovaËkog podruËja ugrozili njezin opstanak.

SreÊom, 2002. godine poËela je provedba projekta njezine sustavne revitalizacije, a rezultat toga brojni su vinogradi u Konavlima danas. S obzirom na rezultate koje ostvaruje, moæe se reÊi da ponovno zauzima nekad davno steËenu poziciju najvaænijega dubrovaËkog vina.

Kvalitativni potencijal Malvasije veoma je visok − daje vrlo jaka i puna vina, naglaπene sortne arome, a zadræava relativno visoku razinu ukupne kiselosti. A upravo je to ono πto je izdvaja od ostalih juænih sorata. Miris je voÊni, juænoga i egzotiËnog voÊa (smokva, marelica, citrusi, gorka naranËa...).

Na okusu su puna, jaka, ali snaænog tijela i ugodne svjeæine, pa su skladna i osobito uæitna. Vrlo je pogodna za prosuπivanje i proizvodnju desertnih vina, razliËitim metodama i postupcima. U Italiji se Ëesto proizvode vina iz prosuπenoga groæa (posebno na otoËju Lipari). SpecifiËna su mirisa i okusa na suhe bobice (pasito), te su vrlo cijenjena. U Hrvatskoj su se nekad proizvodila vrlo jaka suha ili polusuha vina iz redovite berbe, te desertni proπek od prosuπenoga groæa. Izvrsne rezultate u proizvodnji proπeka sorta pokazuje i

KuÊa GlaviÊ/ House GlaviÊ

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posljednjih godina − na prvoj manifestaciji Svijet malvazija, natjecanju svih vina i svojevrsnome svjetskom prvenstvu malvazija, proπek Malvasije dubrovaËke berbe 2007. (proizvoaË Karaman) bio je najbolje ocijenjeno vino. To je nesumnjivo najbolji dokaz da je to posebna, veoma kvalitetna sorta, Ëija vina opet, kao i stoljeÊima prije, privlaËe pozornost vinskog svijeta. Svijeta u kojemu je sve viπe kvalitetnih vina, ali malo takvih bogatih vinskih priËa. .

T

hey all have different characteristics, and most of them come from Italy, followed

by Spain and Portugal, while in Croatia, there are two varieties − Istrian Malvazija and Dubrovnik Malvasija.

Istria is probably better known and economically more important, but the real pearl, the almost forgotten heritage of Konavle and Dubrovnik, is Dubrovnik Malvasija. It has been grown there for centuries and the first time it was mentioned was in 1383, which was the oldest word on a Croatian variety of vine ever. However, the results of genetic studies suggest that this variety can be found in various places in the Mediterranean, which raises the question of its origin. It can be found in the south of Italy, where it is called Greco di Gerace, in Sicily, as Malvasia di Lipari, and in Sardinia, under the name of Malvasia di Bosa.

The Spanish call it Malvasia de Sitges (Catalonia), Malvasia de Banyalbufar (Balearic Islands), and Malvasia de la Palma (Canary Islands). The fact that it is located in different places in the Mediterranean, and even in the Atlantic (Canary Islands) suggests that it had spread to other areas by sea routes. Since the Dubrovnik merchant fleet was very developed and world-famous, it is not known whether Malvasija was brought to the Dubrovnik Republic once upon a time by seamen, or if it is of Dubrovnik origin. However, in all these areas, it has been grown for a long time, according to many sources, even since BC, so we cannot assert where it was first grown before spreading throughout the world. In our country, it has been grown on trellises, next to the houses and villas of the Dubrovnik nobility, and it has always given us high quality wines, with a special and distinctive scent and taste. It has always been highly valued, and according to some sources, grown by many, if nowhere else, but on a trellis. Having your own Malvasija has always been a matter of prestige, and for parents whose sons were getting married, it was a kind of obligation.

There is very interesting data from the rich holdings of the Dubrovnik Archives, which has preserved numerous records of Malvasija. This wine was especially valued, which is confirmed by the fact that it could not be sold without the approval of the authorities. This is evidenced by

KuÊa GlaviÊ/ House GlaviÊ

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a document from 1385, in which a physician from Dubrovnik, Bartolo de Piombino, requests from the Great Council of the Dubrovnik Republic, a permit to buy one quint of Malvasija (5.5 litres) for health purposes.

There is also an ordinance from 1424, which defines the maximum prices of all wine sold at guest houses, except for Malvasija wine, which could be sold at any price one wished. Furthermore, the 1494 travelogue of the Milan canon, Pietro di Casola, mentioned that the people of Dubrovnik had a lot of vines and were making good Malvasija and a lot of other wine, and that they made ...an excellent Malvasija; people say better than that from Crete... All of this is unique information, which we, unfortunately, do not have about other varieties and wines, which, undoubtedly, ranks the Dubrovnik Malvasija among the famous and best varieties of the Middle Ages.

Although its quality has never been in question, the variety has several times throughout the history almost disappeared, but then, it would reappear again like a phoenix from the ashes. The reason for this lies in its susceptibility to diseases, but also the economic circumstances of the day did nothing to help the situation; in these areas, more fertile varieties have often been favored. Fifty years ago, it was reduced to only a few grapevines; then, it was successfully revitalized, and then again, the latest war and the occupation of the Dubrovnik region endangered its survival. Fortunately, in 2002, the project of its systematic revitalization started, which has resulted in numerous vineyards in Konavle that we can see today. Given the results achieved, we can say that it, again, takes up its longstanding position of being the most important wine of Dubrovnik.

The qualitative potential of Malvasija is extremely high − it produces very strong, full-body wines with a pronounced aroma, and maintains a relatively high level of total acidity. And that is precisely what distinguishes it from other southern varieties. The scent is fruity, of southern and exotic fruits (figs, apricots, citruses, bitter oranges ...). The taste is strong, full-bodied with pleasant freshness, so these wines are harmonious and very palatable. This variety is suitable for drying and for the production of dessert wines using various methods and procedures. In Italy, wines are often produced from semi-dried grapes (especially on the islands of Lipari).

They have a specific scent and taste of dry berries (pasito), and are highly valued. In Croatia, in the past, very strong dry or semi-dry wines were produced from the regular harvest and the dessert wine, Proπek, was made out of dried grapes. This variety has had excellent results in the production of Proπek in recent years, too.

At the first event of The World of Malvasia competition, a kind of world championship in Malvasia wines, Proπek, produced from Dubrovnik Malvasija, vintage 2007, (produced by Karaman), was rated as the best wine. This is, undoubtedly, the best proof that this is a special, premium quality variety, whose wines again, like centuries ago, attract the attention of the world of wines − the world in which there are more and more quality wines, but only a few such interesting stories. ■ 152

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specijalitete temeljene na tradiciji i izvrsnim

riječne ribe, gljive, štrudle i kolače od šumskog

prirodom.

okusima hrane.

voća, sokove, likere i vina od šumskih plodo-

Gorski kotar nudi brojne mogućnosti uživanja

Otkrijte Gorski kotar kroz godišnja doba i uži-

va, med i medicu...

u ljepoti krajolika, od prekrasne Kupske doline

vajte u ugodnom goranskom ambijentu, dobroj

Sve ovo, i još mnogo više, možete isprobati u

na 200 metara nadmorske visine do najvišeg

hrani i gostoprimstvu domaćina. Gorski kotar

našim restoranima.

vrha planine Bjelolasice na 1534 metra. Bogat-

ljeti pruža ugodnu svježinu, a zimi ćete pak

Gorski kotar možete upoznati i kroz pravi

stvo šuma, voda, biljnog i životinjskog svijeta,

uživati u idili snježnih krajolika, sanjkanju ili

biciklistički izazov. Goranska biciklistička trans-

dijelova netaknute prirode...

skijanju i romantičnom pucketanju vatre u

verzala je biciklistička trasa koja povezuje sve

Ako postoji lokalitet koji u sebi sadrži većinu

kaminu. Potražite smještaj, daleko od gradske

gradove i općine Gorskog kotara te njihove

temeljnih značajki turističke ponude područja

vreve, gdje će Vas uspavati nježni šapat šume

prirodne, kulturne i povijesne atrakcije te

Gorskog kotara, onda je to svakako Nacional-

i cvrkut ptica. U svakom goranskom mjestu

gastro delicije. Ona vas vodi po postojećim

ni park Risnjak. Povratkom risa u risnjačke

pronaći ćete ugodan krevet koji čeka samo na

šumskim i lokalnim cestama s malo prometa

šume, na jednom mjestu ponovno su

Vas i vabi da ostanete bar nekoliko dana.

te je namjenjena prvenstveno ljubiteljima

zastupljene sve tri velike zvijeri Europe - vuk,

Gorski kotar je raj za gurmane

prirode i brdskog biciklizma. Transverzalom

medvjed i ris.

Ne propustite uživati u bogatom goranskom

upoznajete cijelo područje Gorskog kotara u

Planinarite, šećite ili vozite bicikl zanimljivim

stolu na kojem su za Vas pripremljeni gastro-

dijelovima što omogućuje planiranje višednev-

goranskim krajolicima, istražujte tajanstveni

nomski specijaliteti od plodova gorja, divljači i

nog aktivnog odmora. Sastavljena je iz 7

svijet špilja, promatrajte životinje, pripremajte

druge domaće delicije. Bogatstvo okusa,

etapa od 28 do 43 kilometra i ukupno broji

se za sportska natjecanja, uživajte u raftingu i

autohtona hrana i domaća pića prilika su za

260 kilometara. Zajedno s 9 poveznica čini

kanuingu na brzim planinskim rijekama ili se

predah i prisjećanje na davno zaboravljene

više od 400 kilometara jedinstvenog užitka na

jednostavno odmorite u gorskom raju…

okuse.

2 kotača. Zbog prepoznatljive i atraktivne

154

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konfi- guracije terena na cijeloj transverzali ima

Find accommodation away from the city

više od 5000 metara ukupnog uspona i

crowds, where you can go to bed listening to

jednako toliko spusteva. Informacije potražite

the gentle whisper of the trees and the birds

na www.gorskikotarbike.com

singing. Gorski kotar offers numerous opportunities for an unforgettable vacation and

Gorski kotar is a green oasis where at every

invites you to explore its rich cultural heritage,

turn

admire its natural attractions, and take part in

you

can

notice

the

harmonious

co-existence of man and nature. With its clear

interesting events.

lakes, sunny meadows, numerous water sources, streams, rivers, and wondrous hills

Gorski kotar is a gourmet's paradise

and mountains, Gorski kotar is an ideal

Do not miss the chance to enjoy the variety of

with attractions to get the adrenaline racing

destination for memorable excursions and

local specialities made from fruits of the

and new insights into the area that you have

holidays.

mountains, as well as game and other

decided to visit.

Gorski kotar welcomes you to lush forests, the

traditional dishes of the region.

The Cycling Trail of Gorski kotar is a cycling

Risnjak

National

reserves,

Rich flavours, local dishes and homemade

trail linking up the natural, historic, cultural and

walking

paths

natural

beverages will help you relax and remember

culinary attraction in towns and municipalities

some long-forgotten tastes.

of this delightful mountainous region. Our trail

Park, and

natural

cycle

trails,

landmarks, caves, lakes, festivals and celebrations, a fine local cuisine that offers wild game

allows you to experience the entire area of

dishes and other delicacies. Whether you are

We recommend:

Gorski Kotar in several stages - planning your

looking for a short adventure or a longer stay

game stew with polenta, Gorski kotar stuffing,

cycling holiday day by day. There are 7 stages

Gorski kotar offers enough variety to satisfy all

homemade cottage cheese, roast potatoes

ranging from 28-43 km with a total distance of

your senses and is only 30 kms from the sea.

and sauerkraut, homemade sausages with

260 km. With the addition of 9 branch routes

Gorski kotar is a part of Kvarner region, an area

sauerkraut, baked potato halves with bacon,

it totals an impressive 400 km of unique

of outstanding natural beauty that has histori-

wild boar prepared in the traditional way "pod

enjoyment on two wheels specially designed

cally linked continental Croatia with the sea.

pekom" (under a baking lid), sarma cabbage

to feature more than 5000 m in climbs and

Gorski kotar offers numerous opportunities to

rolls, freshly baked bread, dormouse goulash,

descents.

enjoy its beautiful nature: from the wondrous

smoked game, bear meat, frogs' legs, fresh-

More information

valley of the River Kupa, located 200 metres

water fish, mushrooms, strudel and cakes

www.gorskikotarbike.com

above sea level, to the area's highest peak,

with wild berries, juices, liqueurs and wines

Mount Bjelolasica, which is 1,534 metres high.

made from forest fruits, honey and medica

Gorski kotar boasts a wealth of forests,

mead.

waters, flora and fauna, and some magnificent

You can try all these and much more in our

examples of unspoilt nature. This extraordinary

restaurants!

biological diversity is a result of the fact that,

If you like to hike or ride a bike in attractive

according to palaeontological findings, this

natural

area and its immediate surroundings were

caves, observe animals, enjoy rafting or

refugia fot flora and fauna during thelast ice

canoeing along river rapids, if you need to

age, which explains why there are so many

prepare for sporting competitions, or just

relict and endemic species living in Gorski

want to relax in this mountain paradise -

kotar today. These include rare land mammals,

whatever you choose, we can guarantee that

large predators (wolf, bear, lynx ond otter), rare

you will have a great time here in combination

landscapes,

explore

mysterious

and endangered birds (golden eagle, honey buzzard, eagle owl, three-toed woodpecker, capercaillie..) and the valuable fauna of the clear rivers. The Kupa, the cleanest mountain river in Croatia, is home to a number of fish species that have been declared endangered in Europe (grayling, brown trout, huchen...) and severel rare and endemic invertebrates.

Discover Gorski kotar through the seasons and enjoy its pleasant scenery, excellent local cuisine and the warm welcome of its inhabitants. In the summer, you will find pleasant refreshment, while in the winter you can admire the idyllic winter landscapes, enjoy sledding or relax in a romantic atmosphere by the fireplace.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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795é$9$ 69 0,+29,/$ - MJESTO GDJE PROŠLOST I SADAŠNJOST OSTAVLJAJU BEZ DAHA 67 0,&+$(/ 6 )2575(66 - A PLACE WHERE THE PAST AND THE PRESENT LEAVE YOU BREATHLESS

and even today we can identify the continuity of its construction from the 13th to the 18th century.

After two years of revitalization, Fortress is available for daily visitors together with its new content - an exclusive open-air stage with 1077 seats oriented towards the sea with the spectacular view of Šibenik and its archipelago.

Among the walls, under the patina of the rich history of Šibenik, the most prestigious open-air stage in Croatia hosted, in its very first season, renowned Croatian and international artists such as 2Cellos, Thievery Corporation, The National, Maxim Mrvica, Nouvelle Vauge, Josipa Lisac, Natali Dizdar, Croatian folk dance and songs ensemble LADO and Sibenik musician Dedic family.

A new season of evening events began with the world vocal sensation Perpetuum Jazzile

Nezaobilazna postaja svakog posjeta Šibeni-

Svjetskom vokalnom senzacijom Perpetuum

ku, Tvrđava sv. Mihovila kao najstarija od četiri

Jazzile 17. svibnja započela je nova sezona

šibenske tvrđave, i pored katedrale sv.

večernjih događanja, a za otvorenjem ne

Jakova, najznačajniji je šibenski kulturno-povi-

zaostaje ni niz kvalitetnih koncerata koji nas

jesni spomenik. Srednjovjekovna tvrđava je

očekuju u narednim mjesecima. Tvrđava i u

izvorište grada koji se u povijesnim izvorima

ovoj godini ostaje vodeći koncertni prostor u

prvi put spominje 1066. godine, a na današ-

Dalmaciji, a nezaboravno iskustvo vrhunskih

njoj tvrđavi prepoznaje se kontinuitet gradnje

glazbeno-scenskih događanja pod zvjezda-

od 13. do 18. stoljeća.

nim nebom nadmašiti može samo novootkrivena ljepota povijesne baštine u kojoj duh

Nakon dvije godine revitalizacije, Tvrđava je

on the 17th of May, and the series of concerts

prošlosti živi.

that await us in the upcoming months are no

svakodnevno dostupna posjetiteljima zajedno s novim sadržajem - ekskluzivnom pozornicom

Uvjerite se

sami zašto je već nakon prve

less spectacular. Fortress today presents the

na otvorenom sa 1077 sjedećih mjesta orijenti-

sezone Tvrđava sv. Mihovila proglašena

leading concert venue in Dalmatia, and the

ranih prema moru s koje pruža prekrasan

Kulturnom atrakcijom 2014. godine po izboru

unforgettable experience of the top musical

pogled na grad Šibenik i šibenski arhipelag.

Hrvatske turističke zajednice!

and theatrical events under the stars can only

Među bedemima, pod patinom bogate

be surpassed by recently discovered beauty

šibenske povijesti, najprestižnija pozornica na

of historical heritage in which the spirit of the past lives on.

otvorenom u Hrvatskoj već u svojoj prvoj

The oldest of the four fortresses of Šibenik, St.

sezoni ugostila je renomirane domaće i

Michael's fortress

inozemne izvođače poput: 2cellos, Thievery

every visit to Šibenik. It is the most important

Find out why the St. Michael's fortress was

Corporation, The National, Maxima Mrvice,

cultural and historical monument of the city,

already, after its first season, awarded as the

Nouvelle Vauge, Josipe Lisac, Natali Dizdar,

next to the Cathedral of St. James. The

Cultural Attraction of the Year by the Croatian

Ansambla LADO te šibensku glazbenu obitelji

medieval fortress is the core of the city that is

National Tourist Board!

Dedić.

in historical sources first mentioned in 1066,

156

is an essential stop on

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29. 5. 2015.

Zvjezdani chefovi pod zvjezdanim nebom Okusi Mediteran, Randez-vous festival / Starry chefs under the starry sky - Taste the Mediterranean, Randez-vous festival 5. / 6. 6. 2015.

Deboto festival 13. 6. 2015. ''Pjesmo moja raspjevana'' - 120. godišnjica rođenja Jakova Gotovca - ŠPD KOLO, simfonijski puhački orkestar OSRH i gosti / ''My songfull song'' - 120th birth anniversary of Croatrian composer Jakov Gotovac - Kolo choir, Symphonic orchestra of the Croatian armed forces and Guests 19. 6. 2015.

Mostovi / Bridges - Darko Rundek & Rundek Cargo Trio 24. 6. 2015. Elvis Stanić & Neven Frangeš Strana B (Side B) 13. 7. 2015. Detour - Strana B (Side B) 22. 7. 2015.

Ansambl narodnih plesova i pjesama Hrvatske / Croatian folk dance and songs ensemble - Lado 24. 7. 2015 Terraneo Summer Break/ KOKOLO AFROBEAT ORCHESTRA + THE BOOGALOO DESTROYERS + La Luz Visual Collective + Terraneo dj crew 25. 7. 2015.

Terraneo Summer Break / LAMBCHOP 31. 7. 2015.

Silk&Stone / Amira Medunjanin 3./4./5. 8.2015. SuperUho Festival/Flogging Molly + Einsturzende Neubauten and more 12. 8. 2015.

Jedan dan ljubavi / One day of love - Massimo *Ulaznice se mogu kupiti na Tvrđavi sv. Mihovila, Muzeju grada Šibenika te na www.eventim.hr i www.croatia-tickets.com

svmihovil.sibenik.hr

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croatiaairlines.com

SUMMER TIMETABLE 2015 Ljetni red letenja Berlin (TXL) - Dubrovnik Berlin (TXL) - Split 158 CROATIA AIRLINES

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D端sseldorf - Dubrovnik D端sseldorf - Split

Frankfurt - Dubrovnik Frankfurt - Split

Erfurt - Split

M端nchen - Split

6/11/15 3:46 PM

More Than a Comfortable Flight!

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POZNATI U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU CELEBRITIES IN OUR AIRCRAFT rimski glazbeni konzervatorij S. Cecilia. »est je gost vrlo popularne TV emisije Domenica In na televiziji RAI. Prije nekoliko godina bio je gost na koncertu Andreje Bocellija uz pratnju simfonijskog orkestra Abruzzija.

Njima se u Dubrovniku pridruæio i mladi engleski pijanist Oliver Poole, kojega Ëesto nazivaju Rubinsteinom 21. stoljeÊa. Diplomirao je na uglednome Royal College of London. VeÊ u dobi od sedam godina osvojio je priznanje EPTA kao najperspektivniji mladi pijanist u Europi, a sudjelovao je kao skladatelj prije tri godine na Brit Awardu. Oliver Poole poznat je diljem svijeta iako su mu samo 24 godine, a Ëesto se koristi i uslugama Croatia Airlinesa.

Od ukupno pet odræanih koncerata najatraktivniji je koncert Ane Rucner u 5 sati ujutro prvog dana ljeta na Sru, ali zanimljiv je i koncert filmske glazbe uz pratnju gudaËa Mostarskih simfoniËara i svjetski poznati Anin repertoar World classics & Croatian Beauties.

Festival Ana u Gradu u organizaciji akademske glazbenice, hrvatske violonËelistice Ane Rucner obiljeæio je petu obljetnicu. .

Meu poznatim putnicima Croatia Airlinesa ovoga su se ljeta naπli i poznati talijanski glazbenici Luca Lucini i Mario Stefano Pietrodarchi.

Putovali su u prekrasni Dubrovnik, kako bi gostovali na dogaanju Ana u Gradu. Njima se u Dubrovniku pridruæio i mladi engleski pijanist Oliver Poole, kojega Ëesto nazivaju Rubinsteinom 21. stoljeÊa.

The renowned Italian musicians, Luca Lucini and Mario Stefano Pietrodarchi, were among some of the most famous Croatia Airlines passengers this summer. Their destination was beautiful Dubrovnik, where they were guests at the event: Ana in Town. In Dubrovnik, they were joined by young English pianist, Oliver Poole, often referred to as the 21st century Rubinstein.

L

uca Lucini virtuoz je na gitari, a Mario Stefano Pietrodarchi glazbeni virtuoz na bandoneonu (svirao s Boccellijem) u Vatrenom tangu.

Luca Lucini osvajaË je mnogih meunarodnih nagrada te Ëesto sudjeluje na meunarodnim festivalima u Italiji i Europi. Prije nekoliko godina svirao je solo uz Bjeloruski komorni orkestar i sudjelovao u svjetskoj premijeri Koncerta za gitaru i orkestar skladatelja Andreje Scarponea.

Mario Stefano Pietrodarchi Ëesto se pridruæi Luci pa tako zajedno nastupaju i u popularnome talijanskom showu Al di la dell’acqua.

Mario Stefano zavrπio je s najboljim ocjenama 160

L

uca Lucini is a true guitar virtuoso and Mario Stefano Pietrodarchi, a musical virtuoso of the bandoneon (he performed with Bocelli in The Fiery Tango). Luca Lucini has won many international awards and often participates in international festivals in Italy and Europe. A few years ago, he played a solo with the Belarusian State Chamber Orchestra and participated in the world premiere of the Concerto for Guitar and Orchestra by composer Andrea Scarpone. Mario Stefano Pietrodarchi often joins Luca and they perform together in the popular Italian show Al

di là dell’acqua. Mario Stefano graduated with honours from the Santa Cecilia Music Conservatory in Rome. He is a frequent guest on the very popular TV show, Domenica In, on RAI (Radiotelevisione Italiana). A few years ago, he made a guest appearance at Andrea Bocelli’s concert, accompanied by the Abruzzo Symphony Orchestra.

In Dubrovnik, they were joined by young English pianist, Oliver Poole, often referred to as the 21st century Rubinstein. He graduated from the prestigious Royal College of Music in London. He was only seven years old when he won the EPTA award as the most promising young pianist in Europe, and three years ago, he participated as a composer in the Brit Awards. Oliver Poole is well-known around the world, although he is only 24 years old.

He often uses the services of Croatia Airlines.

Of the five concerts that were held in total, the most popular was Ana Rucner’s concert on Sr at 5 am on the first day of summer, while the film music concert accompanied by the strings of the Mostar Symphony Orchestra and Ana’s world famous repertoire, World Classics & Croatian Beauties, also received a great deal of attention. The festival Ana in Town organized

by Croatian cellist, Ana Rucner, an academic musician, celebrated its fifth anniversary. ■

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66. Dubrovačke ljetne igre 66th Dubrovnik Summer Festival

10th July − 25th August 2015 PROGRAMME HIGHLIGHTS

11 JULY 21:30

In front of St. Blaise’s Church SLOVENIAN PHILHARMONIC UROŠ LAJOVIC conductor 16, 17, 18, 19. JULY 21:30 Island of Lokrum Festival Drama Ensemble I. VOJNOVIĆ: EQUINOX Joško Juvančić director Subtitled in English via Vipscript app 1 AUGUST 21:30 Rector’s Palace Atrium LANA KOS soprano LJUDMILA IVANOVA piano Russian Romances 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 AUGUST 21:30 Rector’s Palace Atrium & In front of St. Blaise’s Church Festival Drama Ensemble PREMIERE I. VOJNOVIĆ: THE DUBROVNIK TRILOGY Staša Zurovac director

www.dubrovnik-festival.hr web shop and tickets dubrovnik.festival info@dubrovnik-festival.hr tel. +385 (0)20 326 100

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15 AUGUST 21:30 Revelin Fort Terrace GREGORY PORTER Grammy Award for the best vocal jazz album, 2014 20 AUGUST 21:30 Rector’s Palace Atrium ITAMAR GOLAN piano GUY BRAUNSTEIN violin 23 AUGUST 21:30 Rector’s Palace Atrium IVO POGORELIĆ piano ZAGREB PHIILHAROMONIC CHAMBER STUDIO ZOLTÁN KOCSIS conductor 25 AUGUST 22:00 In front of St Blaise’s Church CLOSING CONCERT CROATIAN RADIO AND TELEVISION SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA ZOLTÁN KOCSIS conductor

Član Europske udruge festivala od 1956.

Member of the European Festivals Association since 1956

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LIPANJ/JUNE Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings do poËetka rujna/until the beginning of September, Zagreb TAJNE GRI»A − TURISTI»KA TURA U OBLIKU KAZALI©NOGA NOΔNOG OBILASKA GORNJEGA GRADA ZAGREBA/THE SECRETS OF GRI» − THEATRE EVENING TOUR OF ZAGREB’S UPPER TOWN Na zagrebaËkom Gornjem gradu i ove Êe se godine odræavati Tajne GriËa.

RijeË je o zanimljivoj i interaktivnoj dvojeziËnoj kazaliπnoj noÊnoj turi koja je postala nezaobilazno dogaanje za turiste i posjetitelje Zagreba. Svakoga petka na hrvatskome i subote na engleskom jeziku, Tajne GriËa do poËetka Êe rujna predstavljati bogatu hrvatsku i zagrebaËku povijest na osobit i drukËiji naËin./This year, Zagreb is home to the Secrets of GriË tour, an interesting and interactive journey through the city’s Upper Town.

This theatrical evening tour has become a must-see event for tourists and visitors to the city, offered in Croatian on Fridays, and in English on Saturdays. The Secrets of GriË will be held until the beginning of September and will showcase the rich history of Zagreb in a special and unique way. www.tajne grica.hr

do/to 26.7., Zagreb BAUHAUS − UMREÆAVANJE IDEJA I PRAKSE (BAUNET)/ BAUHAUS − NETWORKING IDEAS AND PRACTICE (BAUNET) Meunarodna izloæba predstavlja opuse umjetnika, arhitekata i dizajnera koji su se πkolovali na najutjecajnijoj meunarodnoj πkoli − Bauhaus, a potjeËu iz Hrvatske. Sastoji se od viπe nego tri stotine djela u raznovrsnim medijima, od slika, grafika, crteæa, objekata, preko arhitektonskih nacrta i maketa, tekstila i namjeπtaja, do fotografija i filma, a potjeËu iz hrvatskih i

inozemnih muzejskih zbirki./This international exhibition features the bodies of work of various artists, architects and designers of Croatian origin who studied at the most influential international school - Bauhaus. It consists of more than three hundred works in various media, from painting, print, drawing, sculpture, architectural design, textiles and furniture, to photography and film, originating from Croatian and international museum collections. www.baunet-info.com do/to 13.9., Zagreb IZLOÆBA IZNIK − OTOMANSKA KERAMIKA IZ DUBINE JADRANA/ THE IZNIK EXHIBITION OTTOMAN CERAMICS FROM THE DEPTHS OF THE ADRIATIC Izloæba u muzeju Mimara predstavlja izvanredan arheoloπki materijal s kraja 16. st., pronaen na potopljenom trgovaËkom brodu kod otoka Mljeta.

Jedinstveni prikaz veoma vrijedne kolekcije keramike iz Iznika, uz interpretaciju povijesti hrvatske pomorske baπtine kao i euroazijske pomorske trgovine Mediteranom izmeu Venecije i Istanbula u doba vladavine Murada III./ The exhibition at the Mimara Museum is showing valuable archaeological material from the late 16th century, found on a sunken merchant ship near the island of Mljet. It is a unique display of an extremely valuable collection of ceramics from Iznik, with a historical interpretation of Croatia’s maritime

* Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara This schedule is valid on May 15th. Allow for change after this date.

heritage and Eurasian maritime trade in the Mediterranean between Venice and Istanbul during the reign of Murad III. www.mimara.hr 22.-24.6., Zagreb INMUSIC FESTIVAL 2015./ THE INMUSIC FESTIVAL 2015 Ljeto Êe poËeti u æestokom ritmu ne samo zbog visokih temperatura, nego i zbog istinskog rocka koji u Hrvatsku dovode organizatori INmusic festivala./ Summer will begin fiercely, not only because of the high temperatures, but also because of the genuine rock music brought to Croatia by INmusic Festival organizers. www.inmusicfestival.com 26.6.-4.7., Zagreb FANTASTIC ZAGREB FILM FESTIVAL/THE FANTASTIC ZAGREB FILM FESTIVAL Ovaj nevjerojatan filmski festival na otvorenome nudi filmove razliËitih æanrova, od trillera i fantasyja do azijskih anime uradaka, ali i radionice, predavanja te posebne projekcije na lokacijama od kojih zastaje dah, ukljuËujuÊi Medvedgradsku tvravu iz 13. stoljeÊa./This incredible open-air film festival offers a wide range of films in various genres, from thrillers and fantasy to Asian anime films, but also workshops, lectures and special screenings at breathtaking locations, including the 13th century Medvedgrad Fortress.

26.-28.6., –urevac PICOKIJADA (Rooster Festival) Jedinstvenom scenskom predstavom na otvorenome –urevËani potkraj lipnja slave originalnu pobjedu nad turskom vojskom. Posjetitelji se mogu uvjeriti u gostoljubivost i kvalitetu priredbe koja je postala prepoznatljivi turistiËki proizvod naπe zemlje./Towards the end of June, the residents of –urevac celebrate the victory over the Turkish army by holding a unique outdoor stage performance. Visitors can witness the city’s hospitality and the quality of this event which has become a recognizable tourist product of our country. www.tz-djurdjevac.hr 26.-27.6., »igoÊ DAN EUROPSKOG SELA RODA/ THE DAY OF THE EUROPEAN STORK VILLAGE U »igoÊu æivi oko 120 mjeπtana i joπ dvjestotinjak roda. S obzirom na njihov skladan suæivot, »igoÊ je proglaπen prvim europskim selom roda, te je stoga organizirana manifestacija u sklopu koje posjetitelji mogu otiÊi u obilazak

Lonjskoga polja ili uæivati u gastronomskoj ponudi. Suæivite se i vi sa selom koje su rode odabrale da im bude dom./About 120 locals and around 200 storks reside in »igoË. Thanks to their harmonious coexistence, »igoË was declared the first European stork village, and thus, an event has been organized during which visitors can take a tour of Lonjsko Polje or enjoy the local gastronomic specials on offer. You can also experience life in the same village where the storks have chosen to call home. www.pp-lonjsko-polje.hr 30.6.-26.7., Zagreb IZLOÆBA DEMON MODERNIZMA Slikari vizionari u zoru proπlog stoljeÊa/THE DEMON OF MODERNITY Visionary Painters at the Dawn of the Last Century Izloæba Êe biti odræana u Modernoj galeriji te predstaviti viπe od stotinu radova, slika, skulptura, crteæa i grafika najeminentnijih europskih umjetnika na prijelazu s 19. u 20. stoljeÊe. Bit Êe to blistavi likovni doæivljaj i prava kulturna poslastica za zagrebaËku likovnu publiku, koja Êe moÊi uæivati u vrhunskim djelima najveÊih slikara i kipara s prijelaza 19. u 20. stoljeÊe./The exhibition will be held at the Modern Gallery and will display more than a hundred works - paintings, sculptures, drawings, and prints of the most eminent European artists from the turn of the 20th century.

This is going to be a splendid artistic experience, a real cultural treat for the Zagreb art public, which will be given a chance to revel in the works of the greatest painters and sculptors from the turn of the 20th century. www.moderna-galerija.hr Osijek i okolica/Osijek and surroundings lipanj-srpanj,/June-July, Osijek OSJE»KO LJETO KULTURE/ OSIJEK SUMMER OF CULTURE U staroj baroknoj Tvri odræava se veliki kazaliπno-umjetniËki festival. Na viπe otvorenih i zatvorenih lokacija mogu se pogledati kazaliπne i kinopredstave, izloæbe, performansi i druga zanimljiva kulturno-umjetniËka dogaanja./A large theatre and art festival is being held at the old Baroque Tvra. Visitors can enjoy theatre and cinematic performances, exhibitions, various other performances, and other interesting cultural and artistic events at several outdoor and indoor locations. www.kultura-osijek.com CROATIA AIRLINES

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Pula i okolica/Pula and surroundings lipanj-rujan/June-September, Groænjan GROÆNJANSKO GLAZBENO LJETO/GROÆNJAN MUSICAL SUMMER Na malim gradskim trgovima i u crkvama odræavaju se koncerti. Glazbeni stilovi su najrazliËitiji − od jazza do komorne glazbe./Concerts are being held at small town squares and in churches. The programme offers a variety of musical genres - from jazz to chamber music. www.tz-groznjan.hr Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 18.-21.6., Pag ME–UNARODNI FESTIVAL »IPKE/ THE INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF LACE ©esti meunarodni festival Ëipke odræava se u gradu Pagu, a pokrenut je u povodu uvrπtavanja paπke Ëipke na listu Unescove nematerijalne svjetske baπtine. Uz brojne izloæbe, radionice i demonstraciju izrade paπke Ëipke, festival je popraÊen bogatim glazbenim i gastronomskim manifestacijama, a u sve dane festivala bit Êe Gastro sajam Paπka kuæina./The Sixth International Festival of Lace will be held in the town of Pag, which first began on the day Pag lace itself made it onto UNESCO’s List of Intangible World Cultural Heritage. Along with numerous exhibitions, workshops and demonstrations of Pag lace-making, the festival will be accompanied by rich musical performances and culinary events, including the gastro fair, the Cuisine of Pag, which will be held every day of the festival. www.pag.hr

SRPANJ/JULY Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 13.-14.7., Zagreb FESTIVAL ZAGREB CALLING/ THE ZAGREB CALLING FESTIVAL U sklopu festivala Zagreb calling na stadionu ©alata, ove godine oËekuju vas poznata imena kao πto su Billy Idol, Partibrejkers, Psihomodo pop, Faithless…/Well-known names, such 164

as Billy Idol, Partibrejkers, Psihomodo Pop, and Faithless, to name but a few, are expected this year at the Zagreb Calling Festival at the ©alata Stadium. www.zahreb-touristinfo.hr 15.-19.7., Zagreb 49. ME–UNARODNA SMOTRA FOLKLORA/THE 49th INTERNATIONAL FOLKLORE FESTIVAL 49. meunarodna smotra folklora bit Êe posveÊena folkloru DubrovaËko-neretvanske æupanije. Folklorna plesna i glazbena baπtina obiljeæena je vezama sa πirim mediteranskim i srednjoeuropskim kulturnim krugom, kojima su u to podruËje dospjeli i, mijenjajuÊi se tijekom vremena, do danas odræali kulturni sadræaji razliËita podrijetla i starosti./The 49th International Folklore Festival will be dedicated to the folklore of the Dubrovnik-Neretva County. This folk dance and musical heritage, enriched over time by additions from the wider Mediterranean and Central European cultural circle, through which cultural events of different origin and age have entered this area, have maintained their presence to this day. www.msf.hr GospiÊ i okolica/GospiÊ and surroundings 25.7., OtoËac EKO-ETNO GACKA Eko-Etno Gacka okuplja izlagaËe autohtonih proizvoda iz Gacke, Like i drugih æupanija Hrvatske. Uz izloæbenoprodajni sajam suvenira, rukotvorina, autohtonih prehrambenih proizvoda, posjetioci sajma moÊi Êe uæivati i u dogaanjima u sklopu sajma: natjecanje u kuhanju lovaËkog kotliÊa, igraonice za djecu, ali i uæivati u nastupima kulturno-umjetniËkih udruga./ Eko-Etno Gacka gathers exhibitors of traditional products from Gacka, Lika and other Croatian counties. The fair offers a wide range of souvenirs, handicrafts, and indigenous food products, as well as events for visitors, such as: a competition in cooking hunter’s stew, children’s workshops, and performances from arts and culture associations. www.tz-otocac.hr Pula i okolica/Pula and surroundings 1.7.-31.8., Labin LABIN ART REPUBLIKA/THE LABIN ART REPUBLIC U srpnju i kolovozu Labin se pretvara u umjetniËku republiku, a na otvorenim i zatvorenim lokacijama starogradske jezgre odvijaju se glazbeni, scenski i drugi programi. Njegovo Malo kazaliπte, crkva, stari trg, ulice i skaline preuzimaju ulogu pozornice./In July and August, Labin transforms into the art republic; music, theatre and other programmes

are held at outdoor and indoor locations within the old town, where its small theatre, church, old square, and streets and stairways become a stage. www.labin-art-republika.com 18.-25.7., Pula 62. PULSKI FILMSKI FESTIVAL/ THE 62nd PULA FILM FESTIVAL Ovaj festival ubraja se u svjetski atraktivne filmske festivale na otvorenome.

Pula je pravo mjesto na kojemu nacionalna kinematografija provjerava komunikaciju filma i publike, istodobno propitkujuÊi jednogodiπnje umjetniËke dosege./This festival is one of the world’s most attractive outdoor film festivals. Pula is the right place for national cinematography to test the communication between films and audiences, while also reviewing artistic achievements in the past year. www.pulafilmfestival.hr 17.-26.7., Umag 26. CROATIA OPEN UMAG/ THE 26th CROATIA OPEN UMAG Ljetni ATP turnir koji se u Umagu odræava viπe od 20 godina, vrhunac je turistiËke sezone u sjeverozapadnoj Istri i jedan od najvaænijih sportskih i druπtvenih dogaaja u Hrvatskoj. U gradu tih dana borave tenisaËi svjetskog ranga i ljubitelji bijelog sporta./ The summer ATP tournament in Umag has been held for more than 20 years; it is the peak of the tourist season in northwestern Istria and one of the most important sporting and social events in Croatia. During the tournament, world class tennis players and lovers of the sport visit the city. www.croatiaopen.hr 24.-27.7., SvetvinËenat 16. FESTIVAL PLESA I NEVERBALNOG KAZALI©TA/ THE 16th DANCE AND NON-VERBAL THEATRE FESTIVAL SVETVIN»ENAT Program festivala sastavljen je od suvremenog plesa, uliËnog teatra, radionica i okupljaliπte je mnogih plesnih umjetnika, pedagoga, struËnjaka, kritiËara, programatora festivala, te, najljepπe od svega, brojne i odane publike./The festival programme is composed of contemporary dance productions, street theatre, workshops and is the gathering place of numerous dance artists, pedagogues, experts, and critics, festival programmers, and most of all, its wide and devoted audiences. www. tz-svetvincenat.hr 25.-29.7., Motovun 18. MOTOVUN FILM FESTIVAL/ THE 18th MOTOVUN FILM FESTIVAL Motovun Film Festival potpuno je posveÊen filmovima nastalima u malim kinematografijama i nezavisnim produkcijama, filmovima koji su se nametnuli inovativnoπÊu, idejom, snagom svojih priËa. Program festi-

vala sastavljen je od sedamdesetak naslova sa svih strana svijeta, od dokumentarnih do igranih, od kratkih do dugometraænih, od gerilskih do skupih produkcija. Jedini kriterij njihova odabira jest da se inventivnoπÊu uklapaju u slobodoumnu atmosferu festivala./The Motovun Film Festival is entirely dedicated to films made by small independent productions films that stand out because of their creativity, ideas and powerful stories.

The festival’s programme consists of about seventy titles from all over the world, from documentaries to feature films, from short to feature-length films, from guerrilla films to expensive productions. The only criterion for their selection was that they fit into the open-minded atmosphere of the festival with their creativity. www.motovunfilmfestival.com Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 4.7., Novi Vinodolski ME–UNARODNI LJETNI KARNEVAL/THE INTERNATIONAL SUMMER CARNIVAL Novi Vinodolski svoja gradska vrata otvara maπkarama i privremeno prepuπta vlast Ljetnom karnevalu./ Novi Vinodolski opens its city gates to a masquerade party and temporarily hands over the rule of the town to the Summer Carnival. www.tz-novi-vinodolski.hr 3.-5.7., Opatija LIBURNIA JAZZ FESTIVAL/ THE LIBURNIA JAZZ FESTIVAL Zbog broja koncerata koji se odræavaju postao je najveÊi jazz festival u Hrvatskoj i regiji, broja posjetitelja koji se svake godine vjerno vraÊaju, te novih oboæavatelja jazza./The Liburnia Jazz Festival has become the biggest jazz festival in Croatia and in the region due to a large number of concerts and visitors who faithfully return there every year, as well as new jazz lovers. www.liburniajazz.hr 19.7.-23.8.,Osor 40. OSORSKE GLAZBENE VE»ERI/ THE 40th OSOR MUSICAL EVENINGS Festival klasiËne glazbe odræava se u Osoru od 1976. g. Koncerti su u Osorskoj katedrali, a izvode se djela hrvatskih skladatelja./This classical music festival has been held in Osor since 1976. The concerts are held in the Osor Cathedral, and the festival features the works of Croatian composers. www.osorskeveceri.hr 25.-27.7., Rab RAPSKA FJERA 2015/ THE RABSKA FJERA 2015 Na Rapskoj fjeri sudjeluju obrtnici, zanatlije i kulturno-umjetniËka druπtva s otoka Raba, pa se tako na njima okupe rapski samostreliËari, baËvari, postolari, zlatari, klesari, gradska straæa,

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dame i plemiÊi, pletaËi koπara, πvelje, drvoresci, svjeÊari, pekari, kovaËi te ribari./Craftsmen, artisans and cultural and artistic societies from the island of Rab participate in Rapska Fjera, which attracts a gathering of crossbowmen, barrel makers, shoemakers, goldsmiths, masons, city guards, ladies and noblemen, basket weavers, seamstresses, wood carvers, candlemakers, bakers, and fishermen. www.tzg-rab.hr 15.-17.7., Pag, plaæa ZrÊe FRESH ISLAND FESTIVAL/ THE FRESH ISLAND FESTIVAL Fresh Island festival, ustoliËen kao jedan od najboljih europskih festivala, odræat Êe se ovoga ljeta Ëetvrti put na najpopularnijoj party destinaciji u Hrvatskoj, plaæi ZrÊe. Tijekom tri dana idiliËnog okruæja uz palme i tirkizno more, pjeπËana plaæa ZrÊe pretvorit Êe se u oazu za više od 20.000 glazbenih ljubitelja koji slave hip-hop lifestyle, ali i sve πto Fresh Island dodatno nudi: veliËanstvene live nastupe, boat i pool partyje, sportske aktivnosti na plaæi, plesni kamp i najbolju festivalsku atmosferu./The renowned Fresh Island Festival, one of the best festivals in Europe, will be held this summer for the fourth time at the most popular party destination in Croatia, ZrÊe Beach. During these three days of idyllic ambiance, by palm trees and the turquoise sea, the sandy beach of ZrÊe will turn into an oasis for over 20,000 music lovers celebrating the hip-hop lifestyle, but also everything that Fresh Island additionally offers: magnificent live performances, boat and pool parties, sports activities on the beach, a dance camp, and the best festival atmosphere. www.fresh-island.org 31.7.-14.8., Pag PAG ART FESTIVAL 2015/ THE PAG ART FESTIVAL 2015 Unatrag 17 godina PagArtFestival dovodi istaknute umjetnike iz Hrvatske i svijeta te prezentira ozbiljnu glazbu u ozbiljnoj izvedbi za ozbiljnu publiku, uz poneka umjetniËka dogaanja druge vrste. Od ovoga ljeta ne samo u Pagu, nego i u Novalji i Kolanu./For the last 17 years, the Pag Art Festival has hosted numerous distinguished artists from Croatia and the world.

The festival brings serious performances for the serious audience to the stage, together with other types of artistic events. Beginning this summer, it will be held not only in Pag, but also in Novalja and Kolan. www.tzgpag.hr

Zadar i okolica/Zadar and surroundings 1.7.-3.8., Zadar 21. ZADARSKO KAZALI©NO LJETO/ THE 21st ZADAR SUMMER THEATRE FESTIVAL Manifestacija je to koja posljednja dva desetljeÊa privlaËi zadarsku publiku i putnike namjernike koji se u to vrijeme nalaze u gradu.

U tom razdoblju oËekuje vas niz dramskih, glazbenih i plesnih programa u Lapidariju Muzeja grada (Narodni muzej Zadar)./For the last two decades, this event has been drawing the attention of Zadar audiences and travelers visiting the town at that time.

The festival offers a wide range of theatre, music and dance programmes in the Lapidarium of the National Museum of Zadar. www.hnk-zadar.hr 1.-8.7. Tisno, otok Murter THE GARDEN FESTIVAL Posjetitelji i zaljubljenici u glazbu mogu uæivati u jedinstvenom iskustvu, jer Tisno Êe i ove godine tijekom festivala postati mediteranski centar klupske glazbene scene uz dolazak izvoaËa i gostiju iz cijeloga svijeta./ Visitors and music lovers will enjoy a unique experience as instead of because, once again this year, during the festival, Tisno will become the Mediterranean centre of the club music scene, with appearances of artists and guests from all over the world. www.thegardenfestival.eu 7.7.-14.8. Zadar 54. GLAZBENE VE»ERI U SV.DONATU/THE 54th MUSICAL EVENINGS IN ST. DONAT Meunarodni glazbeni festival odræava se u crkvi sv. Donata, gdje posjetitelji mogu uæivati u koncertima srednjovjekovne, renesansne i glazbe ranog baroka./This international music festival takes place at St. Donat’s Church, where visitors can enjoy Medieval, Renaissance and early Baroque music concerts. www.donat-festival.com ©ibenik i okolica/©ibenik and surroundings 29.-30.7., Vodice 13. VODICE JAZZ & BLUES FESTIVAL/THE 13th VODICE JAZZ & BLUES FESTIVAL Nastupi eminentnih hrvatskih i stranih jazz & blues glazbenika i stilska raznolikost razlog su πto vodiËki festival privlaËi sve viπe ljubitelja te glazbe./ Performances of eminent Croatian and international jazz and blues musicians and its diversity of style are the reasons why the Vodice Festival is attracting more and more fans of this music genre. www.vodice.hr

Split i okolica / Split and surroundings 3.-27.7., Omiπ FESTIVAL DALMATINSKIH KLAPA/THE FESTIVAL OF THE DALMATIAN A CAPELLA SINGING GROUPS Omiπki festival okuplja ponajbolje klapske skupine kako bi oËuvale i promicale dalmatinske napjeve, ali i kako bi ih osuvremenile./This Omiπ Festival gathers the best of the a capella singing groups; its aim is to preserve, promote and modernise Dalmatian melodies. www.fdk.hr 10.-12.7., Split ULTRA MUSIC FESTIVAL/ THE ULTRA MUSIC FESTIVAL Grad domaÊin spektakla elektroniËke glazbe, koji dolazi izravno iz Miamija (SAD), u Europi bit Êe Split. Festival Êe se odræavati na stadionu Poljud i okolnim prostorima na tri pozornice oko kojih Êe biti mjesta za 30 do 50.000 posjetitelja. OËekuje se da Êe festival pohoditi oko 60.000 ljubitelja elektroniËke glazbe./The European city hosting this spectacle of electronic music coming directly from Miami (USA) will be Split!

The festival will be held at the Poljud Stadium, where three levels will provide seating for 30,000 to 50,000 visitors.

About 60,000 lovers of electronic music are expected to visit the festival. www.ultraeurope.com Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings 10.7.-25.8., Dubrovnik 66. DUBROVA»KE LJETNE IGRE/ THE 66th DUBROVNIK SUMMER FESTIVAL U vrhunskim dramskim izvedbama i najljepπim djelima klasiËne glazbe moæete uæivati ugodno smjeπteni meu drevnim gradskim zidinama./ You can enjoy top theatre performances and the most beautiful classical music concerts comfortably seated between the ancient city walls. www.dubrovnik-festival.hr KOLOVOZ/AUGUST Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 21.-30.8., Varaædin ©PANCIRFEST- FESTIVAL DOBRIH EMOCIJA/©PANCIRFEST - THE FESTIVAL OF GOOD EMOTIONS Varaædin se pretvara u grad smijeha i radosti, na ulice izlaze mnogi izvoaËi, glazbenici, performeri, glumci i zabavljaËi, trgovci…/Varaædin turns into a city of laughter and joy as many artists, musicians, performers, actors, entertainers, and merchants come out in the streets.. www.spancirfest.com

Osijek i okolica/Osijek and surroundings 24.-29.8., Vukovar 9. VUKOVAR FILM FESTIVAL/ THE 9th VUKOVAR FILM FESTIVAL Festival podunavskih zemalja Vukovar Film Festival jedini je filmski festival zajednice podunavskih zemalja i jedini koji se doslovno odræava na Dunavu. Osmiπljen je da promiËe i πiri kreativni uzlet filmaπa iz regije./In the Danube region, the Vukovar Film Festival is the only film festival of the Danube Region Film Association and the only one that literally takes place on the Danube. It was designed to promote and spread the creativity of the region’s filmmakers. www.vukovarfilmfestival.com Karlovac i okolica/Karlovac and surroundings 21.-30.8., Karlovac 29. DANI PIVA KARLOVAC/ THE 29th KARLOVAC BEER FESTIVAL U slavu piva na desnoj obali karlovaËke rijeËne ljepotice Korane æivi Ëitav mali grad zabave i gastronomije.

NajposjeÊenija je to puËka sveËanost u Karlovcu, tijekom koje gradom poteËe peta rijeka, rijeka piva./A little town of fun and gastronomy lives on the right bank of Karlovac’s beautiful river Korana. It is the most frequented folk festival in Karlovac, during which a fifth river flows through the city, a river of beer. www.karlovac-touristinfo.hr Rijeka i okolica / Rijeka and surroundings 1.-6.8., Opatija 6. SPFF - SOLO POSITIVO FILM FESTIVAL/THE 6th SPFF - SOLO POSITIVO FILM FESTIVAL Posjetite Meunarodni festival glazbenog dokumentarca i u sjajnom ambijentu Opatije pogledajte filmove svih kategorija, kao i hrvatske premijerne filmove./Visit the International Music Documentary Festival and see films in all categories as well as Croatian film premieres amid the splendid ambiance of Opatija. www.spff.hr 6.-8.8., Senj 44. ME–UNARODNI SENJSKI LJETNI FESTIVAL/THE 44th INTERNATIONAL SENJ SUMMER CARNIVAL Zacijelo jedno od najatraktivnijih ljetnih zabavnih dogaanja na Jadranu. ©est dana i noÊi maπkare u pravom smislu te rijeËi vladaju gradom, opravdavajuÊi maksimalno sve atribute iz svog naziva. VeÊ od davne 1967.godine, u poËetku kolovoza, Senjani s gostima ovaj grad uzdiæu u prijestolnicu ljetnog maπkaranja na istoËnoj obali Jadrana./It is certainly one of the most attractive summer CROATIA AIRLINES

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entertainment events on the Adriatic.

For six days and nights, masquerades in the true sense of the word “rule” the city, fully justifying each and every attribute of its name!! Ever since 1967, in early August, the residents of Senj, together with their guests, transform the city into the summer masquerade capital of the eastern Adriatic. www.tz-senj.hr 15.8., Rijeka,Trsat HODO»A©ΔE NA VELIKU GOSPU/PILGRIMAGE ON THE FEAST OF THE ASSUMPTION OF THE BLESSED VIRGIN MARY Na Trsatu u Rijeci nalazi se Gospino svetiπte poznato po mnogim usliπenjima i hodoËaπÊima brojnih vjernika, osobito na blagdan Velike Gospe./In Trsat (Rijeka), there is a shrine of Our Lady, where many prayers have been answered. This renowned shrine attracts a large number of pilgrims, especially on the Feast of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. www.trsat-svetiste.com 25.-29.8., IËiÊi, Opatija 13. LIBURNIA FILM FESTIVAL/ THE 13th LIBURNIA FILM FESTIVAL Liburnia Film Festival najstariji je festival dokumentarnog filma u Hrvatskoj i jedini koji prikazuje iskljuËivo recentne hrvatske dokumentarce, a odvija se na otvorenome, u luËici IËiÊi pokraj Opatije./The Liburnia Film Festival is the oldest documentary film festival in Croatia, and the only festival exclusively screening the most recent Croatian documentaries. It takes place in the open air, at the small IËiÊi Harbour in the vicinity of Opatija. www.liburniafilmfestival.com 28.-29.8., Vrbnik DANI VINA OTOKA KRKA/WINE DAYS OF THE ISLAND OF KRK Ovom se manifestacijom nastoji obogatiti turistiËka ponuda otoka Krka izvorno hrvatskim proizvodima.

Svake se godine organiziraju struËna predavanja za vinare i vinogradare s vrsnim predavaËima, te cjelodnevna prezentacija poljoprivredne mehanizacije i opreme za vinarstvo i vinogradarstvo./This event aims to enrich the tourist experience on the island of Krk with original Croatian products. Every year, professional seminars hosting top-notch lecturers are organised for winemakers and vine growers, as well as an all-day presentation of agricultural machinery, wine-making and viticultural equipment. www.vrbnik.hr ©ibenik i okolica/©ibenik and surroundings 21.-22.8. ©ibenik 18. VE»ERI DALMATINSKE ©ANSONE/THE 18th EVENINGS OF DALMATIAN CHANSONS Šibenski je festival prepoznatljiv ponajprije po kvaliteti u organiza166

cijskom i umjetniËkom pogledu.

Predanim i ozbiljnim radom, birajuÊi najbolje hrvatske izvoaËe i autore stihova i glazbe, zauzeo je mjesto meu vodeÊim hrvatskim kulturnoglazbenim festivalima./The Evenings of Dalmatian Chansons is a ©ibenik festival known primarily for its organisational and artistic quality.

Thanks to a dedicated and serious approach to selecting the best Croatian artists, lyricists and composers, it has found its place as one of the leading Croatian cultural and music festivals. www.sansona-sibenik.com Split i okolica/Split and surroundings 6.-8.8., Supetar, BraË BRA» FILM FESTIVAL/ THE BRA» FILM FESTIVAL BraË Film Festival meunarodni je festival igranog filma, a odræava se u sklopu programa Supetarskog lita.

Posjetiteljima se nude projekcije za djecu, izloæbe, radionice, predavanja, okrugli stolovi, veËernje projekcije i neizostavni zabavni program. Vaæan je dio glavnog programa i selekcija kratkometraænih igranih filmova, koja Êe se odræati na izdvojenoj lokaciji, u amfiteatru Waterman Resortsa./ The BraË Film Festival is an international live action film festival that is being held as part of the Supetar Summer programme. Visitors can enjoy kids’ screenings, exhibitions, workshops, lectures, round tables, evening screenings and various other forms of entertainment.

A selection of short films, which will take place at a separate location, in the amphitheatre of the Waterman Resorts, is also an important part of the main programme. www.bracfilmfestival.hr 16.-19.8., Split DANI DIOKLECIJANA/THE DAYS OF DIOCLETIAN Kostimirana zabavnoglazbena manifestacija odnosno povijesni spektakl koji vjerodostojno prikazuje vladavinu cara Dioklecijana u Splitu./This is an entertaining musical event, i.e., a historical spectacle (of people in full costume), which depicts the rule of Emperor Diocletian in Split in a credible way. www.visitsplit.info

7.-9.8.,Sinj SINJSKA ALKA/THE ALKA OF SINJ Sinjska alka odræava se svake godine u poËetku kolovoza u spomen na 1715. godinu i pobjedu Sinjana u bitki protiv Turaka.

Sinjani svakog ljeta prireuju tradicionalno viteπko natjecanje sinjskih alkara./The Alka of Sinj is held every year in early August in remembrance of the year 1715, and the city’s victory over the Turks.

To celebrate the victory, a traditional chivalric competition is organised in Sinj every year. www.alka.hr 15.8., Omiπ GUSARSKA BITKA/THE PIRATE BATTLE Omiπ postaje gradom gusara jer predstavlja jedinstveni dogaaj - izvornu bitku omiπkih i mletaËkih gusara iz 13. stoljeÊa, temeljenu na povijesnim Ëinjenicama./Omiπ becomes the city of pirates as it features a unique event - the original battle between the 13th century Omiπ and Venetian pirates, which is based on historical facts. www.omis.hr

Pula i okolica/Pula and surroundings 11.-13.9., PoreË GIOSTRA PoreËki povijesni festival posjetitelje tematski vraÊa u davnu povijest PoreËa, a glavna je atrakcija konjska utrka Giostra./This is the historical festival of PoreË, which thematically takes visitors back to the ancient history of PoreË, with the Giostra horse race as the main attraction. www.giostra.info

RUJAN/SEPTEMBER Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 6.-12.9., Krapina TJEDAN KAJKAVSKE KULTURE/ KAJKAVIAN CULTURE WEEK 49. tjedan kajkavske kulture tradicionalna je manifestacija kojom se nastoji saËuvati i obogatiti kajkavski jezik i obiËaje Zagorja. Nudi se mnoπtvo sadræaja, od znanstvenog skupa, izloæbi, recitala pa sve do predstavljanja zagorskih proizvoda./The 49th Kajkavian Culture Week is a traditional event which aims at preserving and enriching the Kajkavian dialect, and the traditions of Zagorje. It offers a multitude of content, from a scientific conference, exhibitions, and recitals to product exhibits of Zagorje. www.tzg-krapina.hr

Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings 5.-12.9., KorËula KORKYRA BAROQUE FESTIVAL/ THE KORKYRA BAROQUE FESTIVAL Dovoljan razlog da posjetite KorËulu meunarodni je festival na kojemu Êe se predstaviti vodeÊi ansambli i solisti specijalizirani za baroknu glazbu./A good enough reason for you to visit KorËula is the international festival, which will feature leading ensembles and soloists specializing in Baroque music. www.korkyrabaroque.com

CROATIA AIRLINES

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SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 169 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED

172 NOVOSTI NEWS

174 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 177 FLOTA FLEET 179 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 181 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB ZAGREB AIRPORT 182 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 184 ADRESE ADDRESSES

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THE WAY TO UPGRADE YOUR TRAVEL EXPERIENCE With Star Alliance Upgrade Awards you can now use your miles or points to upgrade your entire journey across all 27 member airlines.

Giving you more choice than any other alliance. staralliance.com

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Prikupljajte milje već danas!

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Odvojite privremenu karticu i navedite Miles & More članski broj s privremene kartice prilikom svake buduće rezervacije Unesite detalje s ovog leta u priloženi formular kako bi vam se dodijelile milje Zatražite milje za kupnju/letove/rezervacije s Miles & More partnerima za proteklih 6 mjeseci kako bi se milje retrogradno upisale na miles-and-more.com/ mileagerequest

Start earning now!

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Privremena Miles & More kartica/ Temporary Miles & More card

This is not a credit card

Tear off the temporary Miles & More card and quote the service card number every time you book or reserve a service from Miles & More partners Enter details of your current flight in the form below and earn miles for it Have miles for purchases/flights/bookings with Miles & More partners in the last six months credited to your account retroactively atmiles-and-more.com/ mileagerequest

0HR01 Molimo da napišete samo jednu adresu velikim, štampanim slovima / Please state only one address in capital letters

Ime / Titula / Oslovljavanje / First or given name Title Salutation g / Mr. Dr. Ga / Mrs. Prof.

Ulica i broj, zgrada / Street and number, building

Poštanski broj / Postcode

1234 5678 9012 345 Datum roenja (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of birth (dd/mm/yyyy)

Prezime / Family name

Poštanski pretinac / PO Box

Grad / Town

Država / Country

Odjel (nije obavezno) / Department (optional)

Molimo Vas da unesete naziv kompanije (nije obavezno) / Please enter name of company here (optional)

E-mail-adresa (Molimo Vas da popunite ovo polje) / E-mail address (Please enter your e-mail address and check/mark the box below to receive account information via the Miles & More online newsletter!)

Telefon / Telephone

Broj mobitela / Mobile number

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Molimo Vas da velikim štampanim slovima popunite polja podacima o svom trenutnom letu / Please fill in your current flight details in capital letters Broj karte, etix®, ETKT (npr. 220 3000000474) / Ticket number, etix®, ETKT (e.g. 220 3000000474)

Br. leta (npr. LH 180) / Flight No. (e.g. LH 180)

Datum odlaska (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of departure (dd/mm/yyyy)

Ruta (npr. Frankfurt−Paris) / Route (e.g. Frankfurt−Paris)

Osoban odabir naËina komunikacije* / Personal communication preferences* Æelim primati sljedeÊe i slažem se da se moji osobni podaci koriste za: / I would like to receive the following communication and agree to the usage of my personal data for communication: Miles & More Online Newsletter/ Miles & More Online Newsletter

Miles & More ponude posebno za Vas / Miles & More offers especially for you

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Informacije o proizvodima Lufthanse i ostalim Miles & More avio partnerima / Product information about Lufthansa and the Miles & More airline partners

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Podaci o Vašem Miles & More raËunu i Miles & More newsletter mogu jedino biti poslani elektroniËkom poštom. NeÊete ih primiti poštom; bilo kako bilo, svoj raËun milja u bilo koje vrijeme možete vidjeti na miles-and-more.com / Miles & More account information is only sent via the Miles & More online newsletter. There is no separate mailing.; however, you can view your mileage account anytime at miles-and-more.com.

Odabirem jezik za komunikaciju / Preferred correspondence language:

NjemaËki / German

Engleski / English

Ovisno o državi koja se prikazuje u Vašoj adresi, moguÊe je da Êete moÊi odabrati jezik od njih nekoliko dodatnih. Jezik korespondencije može varirati ovisno o mediju. Kako biste provjerili svoj raËun ili ažurirali svoj profil, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com/myprofile. / Based on the country shown in your address, additional languages may be available for you to choose from. The language of correspondence may vary depending on the medium. To check your account status or to update your profile, please visit miles-and-more.com/myprofile.

Sudjelovanje u frequent flyer progamu Miles and More je podložno Pravilima i Uvjetima. Kako biste proËitali trenutna Pravila i Uvjete, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com. Registracija u Miles & More programu je besplatna. / Participation in the Miles & More frequent flyer program is subject to the Terms & Conditions. To read the current Terms & Conditions, please visit miles-and-more.com. Registration in the Miles & More program is free of charge. * Imate pravo bilo kad povuÊi svoj pristanak, djelomiËno ili u cijelosti, tako da ažurirate svoj Miles & More profil online ili da nazovete Miles & More Servisni Centar na broj: 072 220 220 ili +49-69-66 10 23 30 10. Vaši dodatni komentari, za koje ne postoji predvien prostor, neÊe biti uzeti u obzir. / You have the right to revoke your consent at any time, inwhole or in part, by updating your Miles & More profile online or by calling the Miles & More Service Center at +49 - 69 - 66 10 23 30 10. Unfortunately all supplementary notes can not be considered.

Datum / Date

Potpis / Signature

Ime/First or given name

Prezime/Family name

Miles & More najveći je program nagrađivanja putnika (frequent flyer program) u Europi.

Sudjelujući u programu, članovi prikupljaju milje letenjem, unajmljivanjem vozila, odsjedanjem u hotelu i potrošnjom preko Miles & More cobrand kreditnih kartica.

Sve informacije o programu možete naći na www.croatiaairlines.com/miles-and-more ili na broj telefona Miles & More kontakt centra 072 220 220.

By participating in the programme, members collect miles by flying, car rental, staying in hotels or by using their co-branded Miles & More credit cards. Enjoy all the privileges the programme offers! Collect and spend your miles!

All information about the program could be found at www.croatiaairlines.com/miles-and-more or to telephone number Miles & More contact centar for Croatia market 072 220 220

Jednostavno je učlaniti se: W

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Predajte vašu popunjenu pristupnicu kabinskom osoblju na letu ili je pošaljite poštom: Miles & More Postfach 1434, 33309 Gütersloh, Deutschland ili pošaljite fax: +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 ili preko interneta na web stranici: miles-and-more.com/croatia

It is so easy to join: W

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Hand your completed application to your flight attendant Or send it by post to: Miles & More Postfach 1434, 33309 Gütersloh, Germany

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Or fax it to: +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200

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Or online. Just visit: miles-and-more.com/registration

Miles & More

Osnove programa Miles & More

Introducing Miles & More

Miles & More je vodeÊi program nagraivanja putnika u Europi i nudi Ëlanovima razliËite moguÊnosti prikupljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih partnera u programu.

Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija partnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kartica Miles & More.

Miles & More is the leading frequent flyer programme in Europe, offering its members numerous pos-sibilites for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many attractive privileges.

Members collect miles by using the services of many partners in the programme.

Miles are credited for flights of all Star Alliance members and other airline partners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car partners or staying in participating hotels.

Razredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti Koriπtenjem usluga partnera u Miles & More programu prikupljate nagradne milje koje se mogu iskoristiti za nagrade. Statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status, na temelju kojeg ostvarujete pogodnosti

Tiers and benefits By using the Miles & More partners’ services members collect awards. Status miles which determine a member’s membership status and privileges can be accrued on scheduled flights operated by Croatia CROATIA AIRLINES

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prikupljaju se na redovitim letovima prijevoznika Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Lufthansa Regional, Luxair, SWISS, i svim Star Alliance partnerima.

Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendarskoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller, a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini oËekuje vas status Senator. »lanovi koji prikupe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u razdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalendarske godine, stjeËu status HON Circle.

Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Lufthansa Regional, Luxair, SWISS, and all Star Alliance partners.

Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status and an award mile.

With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year members acquire the Frequent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, acquire the HON Circle status.

Pogodnosti statusa Frequent Traveller - Executive Bonus − 25 % više nagradnih, statusnih i HON Circle milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - prednost na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog razreda - veÊi iznos prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji te klasi prijevoza. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa 2 komada prtljage u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu, a 3 komada prtljage u prvom razredu putovanja.

Frequent Traveller privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 % for award, status and HON Circle miles - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Waiting list priority - Check-in at the Business Class counter - Increased free baggage allowance depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On flights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in total (Economy or Business) and 3 bags in First Class.

Pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus − 25 % više nagradnih i statusnih HON Circle milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - predujam od 50.000 nagradnih milja - uporaba Lufthansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold Lounge partnera u Star Allianceu - viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog razreda - osigurano mjesto na letu za rezervacije do 48 sati u najvišemu ekonomskome i najvišemu poslovnom razredu - prednost pri ukrcaju i iskrcaju prtljage - dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa 2 komada prtljage u ekonomskom, 3 komada prtljage u poslovnom razredu i 4 komada prtljage u prvom razredu putovanja - dva e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade), prilikom postizanja Senator statusa te prilikom svake obnove statusa.

- Senator Premium Award - Companion Award

Senator privileges - Executive Bonus of 25% for award, status and HON Circle miles - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Miles advance of up to 50,000 award miles - Ac ce ss to the Luf than sa Se na tor Lo un ge as well as to the Star Gold Lo un ges of Star Alli an ce par tners - High waiting list priority - First Class check-in - Booking guarantee up to 48 hours before departure in the highest booking class in Business and Economy class - priority baggage handling - An additional bag depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On flights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in Economy, 3 bags in Business and 4 bags in First Class - 2 e- Upgrade Vouchers on achieving Senator status and for every Senator status renewal.

- Senator Premium Award - Companion award

Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle - sve pogodnosti statusa Senator, najviša prednost na listi Ëekanja - predujam od 100.000 nagradnih milja - Status Senator za supruænika ili partnera, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - šest e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade) prilikom postizanja HON Circle statusa te prilikom svake obnove statusa

HON Circle privileges - All existing Senator privileges highest waiting list priority - 100,000 miles in advance - Senator status for your spouse or partner depending on the airline - 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers when becoming an HON Circle Member and every time the status is extended

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-dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa 2 komada prtljage u ekonomskom, 3 komada prtljage u poslovnom razredu i 4 komada prtljage u prvom razredu putovanja

- An additional bag depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On flights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in Economy, 3 bags in Business and 4 bags in First Class

Troπite milje Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge nagrade: nagradne zrakoplovne karte, premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), razliËite nagrade kojima se moæete koristiti pri putovanju (Miles & More hotelski partneri, Miles & More rent-a car partneri), kupnju te u Lufthansa WorldShop-u.

Spend miles You can exchange collected award miles for awards prepared for you: flight awards, upgrades, various travel awards (Miles & More hotel partners, Miles & More car rental partners), shopping and lifestyle awards, and Lufthansa WorldShop.

Zatraæite svoju Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu! n 5 kuna = 1 nagradna milja − za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko ove kartice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja n Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda − jednostavno plaÊajte svojom Diners Club karticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu. n Osvojite joπ viπe milja − koriπtenje ostalih pogodnosti Diners Cluba poput besplatnih online usluga, e-plaÊanja ili trajnih naloga donosi vam dodatne milje. n 2 kartice − 1 raËun Miles & More − koristite li se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom karticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More.

Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card! n 5 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile n Collect award miles everywhere − simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC offices in Croatia or abroad

Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu!

Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu.

Potroπnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paketu 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card!

Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Zatraæite svoju Croatia Airlines American Express kreditnu karticu! n 4 kune = 1 nagradna milja − za svake 4 kune potroπene preko Premium kartice biljeæi se 1 nagradna milja, odnosno za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko Standard kartice n 2500 milja dobrodoπlice − za nove osnovne Premium korisnike i 1250 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Premium korisnike n 1500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard korisnike i 750 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Standard korisnike n Dvostruke nagradne milje − za potroπnju u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travel American Expressa n Besplatno uËlanjenje u Priority Pass program koji vam omoguÊava pristup u viπe od 450 VIP salona u zraËnim lukama (uz naknadu za pristup).

Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com

Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express credit card! n 4 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 4 HRK spent via Premium card, you collect 1 award mile, and for every 5 HRK spent via Standard card you collect 1 mile. n 2.500 welcome miles − for new basic Premium card users and 1.250 welcome miles for new additional Premium card users. n 1.500 welcome miles − for new basic Standard card users and 750 welcome miles for new additional Standard card users. n Earn double award miles − using the card to pay for travels at Croatia Airlines sales offices and PBZ Card Travel American Expressa. n Free Priority Pass programme enrollment − it enables you to access into more than 450 VIP airport lounges (visit charge applicable).

Collect extra award miles − by using other Diners Club benefits, such as free online services, internet banking and e-paying, standing orders etc.

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2 credit cards − 1 Miles & More membership account − use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account.

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Please find detailed info at: www.miles-and-more.com CROATIA AIRLINES

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CROATIA AIRLINES NOVOSTI

CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS been authorised for the base and line maintenance of foreign aircraft within its maintenance base in Zagreb. Since then, a total of 207 major aircraft maintenance checks have been carried out, including the most demanding D-check, and 285 different technical repairs on the aircraft of foreign airlines.

NASTAVLJEN TREND POZITIVNOG POSLOVANJA

Croatia Airlines zabiljeæio je neto dobit i u 2014. godini, drugu godinu zaredom. Lani je ostvareno 7,100.000 kuna dobiti, πto je deseterostruko bolje u odnosu na 2013. godinu, u kojoj je neto dobit iznosila 721.000 kuna.

Pozitivan trend lani je zabiljeæen i u prometnim uËincima. Ukupno je prevezeno 1,825.063 putnika (+2 posto u odnosu na 2013.g.), a prosjeËna popunjenost putniËke kabine (PLF) iznosila je 69,2 posto (+0,4 postotnih bodova).

U redovitom prometu zabiljeæeno je 84,7 posto polazaka zrakoplova unutar 15 minuta, πto je bolje od prosjeka Europske udruge avioprijevoznika (83,6 posto).

Pozitivan trend u poslovanju rezultat je kontinuiranoga i dosljednog provoenja svih mjera strateπkoga, financijskoga i operativnog restrukturiranja tvrtke, i to prema pravilima Europske komisije, vezanima za dræavne potpore u sektoru zraËnog prijevoza, na temelju odobrenja hrvatske Agencije za zaπtitu træiπnog natjecanja.

OTVOREN TREÊI HANGAR

U veljaËi je u rad puπten treÊi hangar Croatia Airlinesa, novi proizvodni pogon u tehniËkom srediπtu tvrtke u Zagrebu. Hangar veliËine 2200m2 sagraen je vlastitim sredstvima tvrtke, a prilagoen je za obavljanje najzahtjevnijih tehniËkih servisa zrakoplova Airbus, meu kojima je i takozvani D-pregled. Novi hangar omoguÊuje bræe i efikasnije odræavanje flote Croatia Airlinesa, πirenje usluga tehniËkog odræavanja zrakoplova inozemnih avioprijevoznika te dodatni razvoj tehniËkog sektora k a o v i s o k o p ro f i t n o g s re d i π t a t v r t k e .

StruËnjacima tehniËkih sektora istodobno se omoguÊuje joπ snaæniji izvoz hrvatskog znanja, πto dodatno pridonosi jaËanju i konkurentnosti hrvatskoga gospodarstva.

Vrijedi podsjetiti kako Croatia Airlines od 2001. godine ima ovlaπtenje za bazno i linijsko odræavanje inozemnih zrakoplova u sklopu svoje tehniËke baze u Zagrebu.

Od tada do danas ukupno je obavljeno 207 velikih pregleda zrakoplova, ukljuËujuÊi i najzahtjevniji D-pregled, te 285 razliËitih 172

tehniËkih zahvata na inozemnim zrakoplovima.

THE THIRD HANGAR IS OPEN

In February, the Croatia Airlines’ third hangar, a new production plant in the company’s technical centre in Zagreb, was put into operation. The hangar, which covers an area of 2200m2 and was built with the company’s own resources, is suitable for carrying out the most demanding technical services on the Airbus aircraft, including the so-called D-check. The new hangar also allows for faster and more efficient maintenance of the Croatia Airlines’ fleet, for the expansion of technical maintenance of foreign aircraft, as well as for the further development of the technical sector as a high-profit centre for the company. It allows the experts in the company’s technical sectors an even stronger export of Croatian knowledge, which will further contribute to the strengthening of the competitiveness of the Croatian economy.

As a reminder, since 2011, Croatia Airlines has

THE TREND OF POSITIVE BUSINESS OPERATIONS CONTINUES

In 2014, for the second subsequent year, Croatia Airlines recorded a net profit. Last year, it realized a profit of HRK 7,100,000, which was ten times better compared to 2013, when the net profit amounted to HRK 721,000.

Last year, a positive trend was recorded in traffic effects. A total of 1,825,063 passengers were transported (2% higher than in 2013), and the average passenger load factor (PLF) was 69.2 percent (an increase of 0.4 percentage points). In regular traffic, 84.7 percent of aircraft departures within 15 minutes were recorded, which is better than the average figure of the Association of European Airlines (83.6 percent).

The positive trend in business operations is the result of continuous and consistent implementation of all strategic and financial measures as well as the operational restructuring of the company in line with the rules of the European Commission relating to state aid in the air transport sector, with the approval of the Croatian Competition Agency.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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SURADNJA SA SINGAPORE AIRLINESOM

Putnici Croatia Airlinesa i Singapore Airlinesa od 1. svibnja ove godine imaju joπ veÊi izbor putovanja i uæivaju dodatne pogodnosti na letovima izmeu Hrvatske i Singapura te obratno. To je rezultat sporazuma o zajedniËkom koriπtenju oznaka za letove prema kojemu Singapore Airlines dodaje svoju oznaku SQ na letove Croatia Airlinesa iz Londona i Kopenhagena u Zagreb, dakle na letove izvan svojih europskih Ëvoriπta, a na temelju uzajamnosti Croatia Airlines dodaje svoju oznaku OU na letove Singapore Airlinesa izmeu Singapura i Londona te Singapura i Kopenhagena.

COOPERATION WITH SINGAPORE AIRLINES

Starting on May 1st of this year, Singapore Airlines and Croatia Airlines customers can enjoy more choice and convenience when travelling between Singapore and Croatia as a result of a new codeshare agreement between these Star Alliance partners. Under the agreement, Singapore Airlines will add its ‘SQ’ designator code to all Croatia Airlines-operated flights beyond its European gateways from London and Copenhagen to the Croatian capital of Zagreb. On a reciprocal basis, Croatia Airlines will add its ‘OU’ designator code on all Singapore Airlines-operated flights between Singapore and London as well as on flights between Singapore and Copenhagen.

UVEDENI IZRAVNI LETOVI DUBROVNIK - NICA

Dana 25. travnja o.g. naπim zrakoplovom Airbus 319 obavljen je prvi redoviti let izmeu Dubrovnika i Nice. Izravni letovi na toj liniji uvedeni su prvi put u povijesti tvrtke, a do kraja listopada obavljaju se ponedjeljkom i petkom.

Croatia Airlines ove sezone izravno povezuje Dubrovnik s 10 europskih odrediπta (Amsterdam, Atena, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Pariz, Rim, Venecija, Zürich i Nica), a pritom se putnicima nudi ukupno 27 meunarodnih letova na tjedan.

POTVRDA O PRVOM LETU

Za naπe najmlae putnike, koji prvi put lete zrakoplovom, ovog proljeÊa uveli smo posebnu novost. Djeca u zrakoplovima Croatia Airlinesa, osim popularne knjiæice Supi, dobivaju i potvrdu o svome prvom letu, i to s potpisom kapetana zrakoplova. Ta trajna uspomena na prvo putovanje zrakoplovom dosad je razveselila mnogu djecu i pridonijela tomu da im prvi let zauvijek ostane u sjeÊanju.

SUPI

Br/Nr 20

FIRST FLIGHT CERTIFICATE

This spring, we are introducing a special novelty for our youngest passengers flying for the first time. In addition to the popular Supi booklet, children on Croatia Airlines flights will receive a certificate of their first flight signed by the aircraft’s captain. This permanent memento has delighted many children so far and helped them remember their first flight.

DIRECT FLIGHTS FROM DUBROVNIK TO NICE ARE INTRODUCED

On April 25th of this year, our Airbus319 carried out its first regular flight from Dubrovnik to Nice.

Direct flights on this route were introduced for the first time in the company’s history, and will continue on Mondays and Fridays until the end of October. This season, Croatia Airlines is connecting Dubrovnik directly to 10 European destinations (Amsterdam, Athens, Berlin, Dusseldorf, Frankfurt, Paris, Rome, Venice, Zurich and Nice), and passengers will be offered a total of 27 international flights a week.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU RU»NA PRTLJAGA

Sluπalice za suzbijanje buke Digitalni audio/MP3 ureaj n ElektroniËke igre n e-ËitaË n Prijenosna/Notebook raËunala n Prijenosni DVD/CD ureaj n Bluetooth ureaji n Kamere n Medicinski ureaji n ElektriËni brijaÊi aparat n n

Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike ekonomskog razreda: 1 komad n maksimalna teæina 8 kg n zbroj dimenzija do 115 cm (55x40x20) Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike poslovnog razreda: 2 komada n maksimalna teæina 8 kg po komadu n zbroj dimenzija maksimalno 115 cm (55x40x20) ili 57x54x15cm (etui za odijela) Radi ograniËenog spremiπnog prostora u putniËkoj kabini te kada je veÊa popunjenost zrakoplova, i dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga bit Êe Ëekirana i spremljena u prtljaæni prostor.

PO©TOVANI PUTNICI! Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima.

Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije.

Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije.

UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama.

Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi.

RED SJEDENJA

UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima.

PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja.

Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta.

ELEKTRONIČKI URE AJI U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI Upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja dopuπtena je iskljuËivo u zrakoplovnom radu, teæe i veÊe ureaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je upaljen znak obveznog vezivanja.

Popis dopuπtenih elektroniËkih naprava: n Mobilni/Smart telefoni n Tablet raËunala

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva.

USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U naπim zrakoplovima posluæujemo hranu i napitke bez naplate.

U poslovnom razredu na svim letovima usluga ukljuËuje birana hrvatska jela, alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te izbor domaÊega i stranog tiska.

U ekonomskom razredu usluga ovisi o vrsti i duljini leta.

Na domaÊim letovima posluæuje se samo voda, a na meunarodnim letovima usluga se sastoji od snacka i ponude piÊa.

Na veoma kratkim letovima putnicima nudimo samo vodu, a na duljim letovima u ponudi su alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te topli napitci.

IskljuËivo u poslovnom razredu moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed (vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed).

Putnicima nije dopuπteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Alkoholiziranim putnicima ne posluæuju se alkoholna piÊa.

Puπenje je zabranjeno tijekom boravka u zrakoplovu. Toaleti su opremljeni detektorima dima. .

Faze leta u kojima je dopuštena upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo.

Faze leta

Mobilni/ Smart telefoni, Tablet

Prijenosno Sluπalice za raËunalo suzbijanje buke

Funkcija teksta/razgovora

Ukrcavanje

DA

DA

DA

DA

Kaπnjenje u polasku

DA

DA

DA

DA

Taksiranje za polijetanje

DA

NE

DA*

NE

Polijetanje

DA

NE

DA*

NE

Tijekom leta

DA

DA

DA

NE

Spuπtanje

DA

NE

DA*

NE

Slijetanje

DA

NE

DA*

NE

Taksiranje

DA

NE

DA*

DA

*U navedenim fazama nije dopuπteno rabiti sluπalice prikljuËene na audio/MP3 ureaje 174

CROATIA AIRLINES

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ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our first and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests.

With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services.

Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inflight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole flight.

Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the flight.

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking flights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.

Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing.

HAND BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE Economy Class passengers: 1 piece n max. weight 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) Business Class passengers: 2 pieces n max. weight per piece 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) or 57x54x15cm if it is a foldable garment bag Due to a limited storage space and when a flight is fully booked even approved carry-on baggage will be checked-in and stowed in cargo compartments.

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s

n

RESTRICTED ITEMS The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage.

Such items are: explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons, firearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers.

IN-FLIGHT SERVICES

Please read the instructions below, important for your safety and comfort during the flight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your flight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

SEAT ASSIGNMENT

e-Readers Laptop/Notebook computers n Portable DVD/CD player n Bluetooth devices n Personal cameras n Assistive medical devices n Electric shaver n

PERSONAL ELECTRONIC DEVICES Electronic devices may only be used if they are in flight mode. Bulky personal electronic devices must be securely stowed whenever the seat belt sign is turned on.

List of approved personal electronic devices: n Mobile/Smart phones n Tablet computers n Noise-cancelling headphones n Digital audio/MP3 player n Electronic games

We serve food and beverages free of charge in our aircraft.

In business class on all flights the services include a choice of Croatian foods, alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, as well as a choice of domestic and foreign print media.

Our services in economy class depend on the type and length of the flight.

On domestic flights we serve only water, and on international flights our services include snacks and an offer of beverages.

On very short flights our passengers are offered only water, and on longer flights they are offered alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages as well as hot drinks. In business class only you can order a special meal when purchasing your tickets, however, this must be done at least 24 hours ahead (vegetarian, Muslim, diet, but kosher meals must be ordered 48 hours ahead).

Passengers are not allowed to consume their own alcoholic beverages. Passengers that are considered under the influence of alcohol are not served alcoholic beverages. smoking is forbidden in the aircraft. The toilets are equipped with smoke detectors.

■

Use of electronic devices during different flight phases Flight phase

Hand Held PEDs (i.e. smart phones and tablets)

Larger PEDs (i.e. Laptops and notebooks)

Noisecancelling Headphones

Text and phone functions

Boarding

YES

YES

YES

YES

Extended Ground Delay

YES

YES

YES

YES

Taxi-out for Take-off

YES

NO

YES*

NO

Take-off

YES

NO

YES*

NO

Cruise

YES

YES

YES

NO

Descent

YES

NO

YES*

NO

Landing

YES

NO

YES*

NO

Taxi to Stand

YES

NO

YES*

YES

*During critical phases of flight headphones must not be plugged to audio/MP3 players.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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CROATIA AIRLINES

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FLOTA

FLEET Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu.

Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)

122,40 / 1318

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

2

4

6

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

174

144

76

Airbus 320-200

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Airbus 319-100

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Dash 8-Q400

Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje.

Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer.

Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA

A MAP OF DESTINATIONS TRONDHEIM

•

BERGEN

St. Petersburg STAVANGER

Aberdeen Edinburg Belfast Dublin

Manchester

VILNIUS GDANSK

Kassel DUSSELDORF

POZNAN

Chisinau LYON

Turin

PORTO

VENICE

Genoa NICE

Madrid

RIJEKA

OSIJEK BELGRADE Bucharest

BRA»

BARCELONA

Podgorica Bari Tirana

Palermo Catania

ATHENS

Beirut Damascus TEL AVIV Jerusalem Amman Q u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama

Q linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines’ services

in cooperation with partner airline

Partneri / Partners: Air France

Alitalia

Brussels Airlines

KLM

United Airlines CROATIA AIRLINES

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)O\ WR Dubrovnik

tel: +385 20 773 333, fax: +385 20 773 322 180 CROATIA AIRLINES e-mail: info@airport-dubrovnik.hr, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr

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ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

ZAGREB AIRPORT

5

4

4

Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21

International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

2 Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7

P

Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike

1

C

i

Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima

Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

D

D

P C

Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A”

A

Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”

B

N

i S B

Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte

S

3

TAKSI BUS

CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

1

Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

2

V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije

3

Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

4

Restaurant Faust VranËi Ê

5

Panoramic View Panoramski pogled

A

Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila

Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica

B

Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica

Coffee Bar Kavana

C

Customs Control Carinska kontrola

Bar

D

Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina

Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks)

N

Newstand Novinarnica

Baggage Prtljaga

P

Passport Control Kontrola putovnica

S

Shops Prodavaonice

i i

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.

5.00 9.00 13.30 17.30

U DUBROVNIKU autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 75 minuta prije leta.

Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova.

ZAGREB − Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 8.00 8.30 9.00 9.30 10.30 11.30 12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30 14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30 16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30 18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30 20.00

In DUBROVNIK airport buses leave 90 minutes before the flight, and in ZADAR 75 minutes before the flight.

The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing.

Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) − Zagreb (zraËna luka) − Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) − Rijeka − Polazak u 15.30 sati.

Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) − Zagreb Airport − Departure at 5.00. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport − Rijeka − Departure at 15.30.

Flight Information Informacije o letovima Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije

ZAGREB − Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb: Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb: 5.30 10.00 14.00 18.00

6.00 10.30 14.30 18.30

6.30 11.00 15.00 19.00

7.00 11.30 15.30 19.30

7.30 12.00 16.00 20.00

8.00 12.30 16.30

8.30 13.00 17.00

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, 098 472-539, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn.

The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas.

Autobusi iz ZAGREBA polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova.

Bus departures in ZAGREB are an hour and a half prior for domestic flights and two hours prior for international flights.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI?

WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL? Dragi putnici!

Zahvaljujemo vam na prekrasnim fotografijama koje nam πaljete s vaπih putovanja. Bliæi nam se ljeto i sigurni smo da Êe vas more, sunce i lijepo vrijeme inspirirati u nastajanju novih zanimljivih fotografija. Nadamo se kako svoj odmor planirate s Croatia Airlinesom te kako Êete nam i dalje slati svoje fotografije s neobiËnih i zanimljivih mjesta s putovanja.

Poπaljite nam svoje fotografije uz jednu reËenicu u kojoj objaπnjavate zaπto volite putovati i sudjelujte u naπem nagradnom natjeËaju. Pobjednika Êemo nagraditi s dvije povratne aviokarte po izboru za neko od odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa, dok Êe dva dobitnika primiti poklon-pakete.

Autoricu fotografije Adrijanu Apostolovski odabrali smo kao najbolju u ovome broju te je nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa.

Promidæbenim poklon-paketom nagradit Êemo Ledu SutloviÊ i Vilima Uzorinca.

Pozivamo vas da nam nastavite slati svoje fotografije jer vas i u iduÊem broju oËekuju vrijedne nagrade. Posjetite naπu web stranicu www.croatiaairlines.hr (Ponude/Nagradne igre i natjeËaji), pogledajte uvjete nagradnog natjeËaja i sudjelujte!

Leda SutloviÊ

Dear passengers!

Putovanja u daleke zemlje omoguÊuju mi da u stvarnosti doæivim susrete o kojima sam maπtao…

Travelling to faraway countries allows me to experience the encounters I have only dreamed of...

182

Adrijana Apostolovski

Vilim Uzorinac

Volim putovati da bih iznenada pronaπla prekrasan pogled.

My love of travel comes from suddenly finding a beautiful view.

Thank you for the wonderful photographs you have been sending us of your travels. As we get closer to the summer, we are sure that the sea, sun and good weather will inspire you to take new interesting photographs. We hope that you are planning your vacation with Croatia Airlines, and will continue sending us photographs of the unusual and interesting places you have been to on your travels.

Send us your photographs accompanied by a sentence which explains why you like travelling and take part in the photo contest. We will award the first prize winner with two return tickets on Croatia Airlines to a destination of your choice, while the second and third place winners will receive promotional packages.

The winner of two Croatia Airlines return air tickets and best photo in this issue is Adrijana Apostolovski.

Leda SutloviÊ and Vilim Uzorinac have won our promotional packages.

We invite you to continue sending your photographs because valuable awards await you in the next issue. Visit our web page at: www.croatiaairlines.hr (Offers/Contests and Competitions), read the terms and conditions, and take part in the contest!

Nova putovanja, novi horizonti.

New journeys, new horizons.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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„….I have yet to create my best painting. I think of it always. I work from my heart, that I can leave something for my family, my people, my offspring. To let it be known where I was and why I lived... My greatest wish is time: time to complete everything that I have started…!“

A TALE OF CROATIAN NAIVE ART Mijo Kovačić Foundation celebrates 80th birthday and 60th artwork anniversary of the great Croatian naive artist Mijo Kovačić at its own gallery in Zagreb’s Upper town Gallery Mijo Kovačić Basaričekova 22 Visits: Free entrance Monday - Friday 9.30 - 12.30 16.00 - 21.00 Saturdays 9.30 - 12.30 Closed Sundays www.mijokovacic.com CROATIA AIRLINES

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ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 6160 153 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/uprava@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 072-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 18:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept.

Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 072 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Brojevi telefonskog check-ina / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Bruxelles 1930 Zaventem/Brussels Airport Box 31 Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik ZraËna luka/Airport Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt 60 313 Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London Concorde North Wing, Gatwick Airport Room 332, West Sussex RH6 0DW Tel. (+44-20) 8563-0022, Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615 Airport Heathrow, Terminal 1, Zone H Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-4683 Fax (+44-20) 8754-7377 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr München 85 356 München Flughafen/Airport Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Ebene 4. Büro 4.1319 Tel. (+49-89) 975-92-730 Fax (+49-89) 975-92-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr

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ADDRESSES Paris

Pula

95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Roissypôle Le Dôme, Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-40-00 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-55-11 parto@croatiaairlines.hr ZraËna luka/Airport Pula Valtursko polje 210, 52 100 Ližnjan Tel. (+385-52) 218-909, 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr

Rijeka

51 000 Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5 Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma 00054 Fiumicino Aeroporto/Airport Leonardo da Vinci Torre Uffici 2, room 518 Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo 71 000 Sarajevo ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skopje 1000 Skopje ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 3296-967, 3296-969 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split 21 000 Split ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar 23 000 Zadar ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb 10 000 Zagreb Trg Nikole Š, Zrinskog 17 Tel. (+385-1) 481--96-33 Fax (+385-1) 481-96-32 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Meunarodna zraËna luka Zagreb/ Zagreb International Airport Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 62-65-930 Zürich Hardstrasse 2, 8004 Zürich Tel. (+41-44) 2610-840 Fax (+41-44) 2610-883 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe »eπka CK Blue Sky Travel Opletalova 57, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. +420 222 222 235 Fax +420 222 220 237 czech@croatiaairlines.hr GrËka / Greece Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str., 105 57 Athens Tel. +30 210 32 17 679, 32 17 750 Fax +30 210 32 49 152 greece@croatiaairlines.hr

Kosovo Airtour Bill Clinton 32, 10031 Prishtina Tel. +381 38 233 833 Fax +381 38 245 845 kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr Airtour Prishtina International Airport Tel. +381 38 594 111 Fax +381 38 594 222 kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr Portugal APG - Portugal Viela da Beloura, nº7 − Quinta da Beloura 2710 - 693 Sintra Tel. +351 219 100 054 Fax +351 219 100 059 portugal@croatiaairlines.hr SlovaËka CK Blue Sky Travel Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel./fax +421 2 5262 2375 slovakia@croatiaairlines.hr Španjolska / Spain Global Representacion Turistica / GRT c/Valencia, 266, 4, 1, 08007 Barcelona Tel. +34 934 875 775 Fax +34 934 880 121 spain@croatiaairlines.hr Turska ZENITH Services Ordu Caddesi, No. 12/1, Laleli Fatih 34134 Istanbul Tel. +90 212 513 2667, gsm +90 533 738 8470 Fax +90 212 512 4234 turkey@croatiaairlines.hr ZENITH Services Istanbul Ataturk Airport Tel. +90 212 465 5023 Fax +90 212 465 4092 turkey@croatiaairlines.hr Bliski istok Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda Street, Migdalor blgd. 12th floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. +972 3 516 7181, 516 7140 Fax +972 3 516 7174 israel@croatiaairlines.hr Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. +61 3 9699-9355, Fax +61 3 9699-9388 lidia@skyair.biz Novi Zeland / New Zealand CTtravel Limited NZ PO Box 104-056, Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Rd. Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. +64 9 837 9897 Fax +64 9 837 9898 croatiaairlines@cttravel.co.nz Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo, 105-0001 Japan Tel. +81 3 3593 6740 Fax +81 3 3593 6534 asipaxtyo@airsystem.jp Koreja / Korea Bohram Air Services 7F, Donghwa Bldg, 58-7 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: +82 2 754 6336 Fax: +82 2 779 8795 customersupport@croatiaairlines.co.kr Tajvan, Kina, Hong Kong / Taiwan, China, Hong Kong Pacific Express Company Limited 8F, No 137, Nanking E. Road Sec. 2, Taipei, Taiwan, R.O.C. Tel: +886 2 2515 2371 Fax: +886 2 2515 3463 peclpax@ms57.hinet.net

CROATIA AIRLINES

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Where Dubrovnik's timeless beauty meets perfect natural settings

Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel 5*

Valamar Argosy Hotel 4*

Information and reservations: T +385 52 465 000

www.valamar.com

Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel 5*

Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik Hotel 4*+

Enjoy premium hotels on the quiet Babin Kuk peninsula, only minutes away from the world renowned Old Town of Dubrovnik. Spend your days soaking up the sun on one of several beaches surrounding the hotels, exploring the historic old town or simply enjoying the exquisite gastronomic experiences.