Inflight Magazine Croatia - spring 2014 by Croatia Airlines

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Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Krešimir KuËko

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ PrliÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Direktorica marketinga/ Director Marketing Zlata PrpiÊ

Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek

Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o.

Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17

Dobro doπli u naπ zrakoplov. Nadam se da Êe vaπe vrijeme s nama proteÊi u dobrom raspoloæenju te da Êe vam let biti ugodan. Da bi bilo tako, brinut Êe se Ëlanovi naπe posade. Kao obiËno, u novo godiπnje doba ulazimo s joπ jednim brojem putnog Ëasopisa, koji je pred vama. S poËetkom proljeÊa uvijek objavljujemo i naπe poslovne rezultate iz prethodne godine. Vrlo smo zadovoljni πto program restrukturiranja daje dobre rezultate te smo proπlu godinu zavrπili s dobiti, koja Êe kompaniji omoguÊiti daljnje nesmetano poslovanje, na Ëemu æelim posebno zahvaliti svim vrijednim zaposlenicima naπe kompanije. Prve proljetne dane prati i poËetak ljetnog reda letenja, koji vrijedi od 30. oæujka do 25. listopada. Uvodimo i neke nove linije. Naπi zrakoplovi povezat Êe Split s Atenom, Lyonom i Beogradom, Dubrovnik i Pulu s Amsterdamom, Zagreb s Barcelonom, a uvest Êemo i dodatne letove na linijama izmeu Splita i Münchena te Dubrovnika i Züricha te Pariza. Vjerujem da Êe udobnosti naπih letova dodatno pridonijeti i ugradnja novih sjedala i u zrakoplove A 320. RijeË je o sjedalima Recaro, kakvima su veÊ opremljeni naπi zrakoplovi A 319. A dok ste udobno opuπteni u naπim novim sjedalima, predlaæemo da prelistate naπ putni Ëasopis. Na poËetku, predstavljamo vam mladu hrvatsku znanstvenicu Vernesu SmolËiÊ, Ëlanicu meunarodnoga znanstvenog tima, Ëija su istraæivanja posljednja rijeË u znanosti o svemiru. Vjerujemo da Êe vam biti zanimljivo saznati i kako identitet glavnoga hrvatskoga grada Zagreba vide poznati amsterdamski dizajneri. A kad je rijeË o prirodnim ljepotama naπe zemlje, pozivamo vas da posjetite Nacionalni park Krka, blizu prelijepoga ©ibenika. Nadamo se da Êete uæivati u tekstu i fotograﬁjama koje vjerno doËaravaju tamoπnji ugoaj. Zanima li vas viπe kontinentalna Hrvatska, predlaæemo da posjetite Poæegu, grad u Slavoniji bogate povijesti, ali i bogate gastronomske ponude, koja je predstavljena i u jedinstvenome Muzeju u loncu. Od naπih odrediπta, u ovome broju Ëasopisa vodimo vas u francuski Lyon, grad osobitog πarma. Cijenjeni putnici, veÊ se veselimo i sljedeÊem susretu s vama na jednome od naπih letova. Do tada, æelimo vam ugodne i opuπtene trenutke u vaπemu krajnjem odrediπtu, a putujete li poslovno, i mnogo uspjeπnih poslovnih susreta.

Dear passengers,

E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26

Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec

Welcome on board our aircraft. I hope that your time with us will be enjoyable and your ﬂight comfortable. Our staff will certainly do their utmost to make it happen. As usual, a new season starts with a new issue of our in-ﬂight magazine. At the beginning of spring we

D. FabijaniÊ

D. FabijaniÊ, Krka

Poπtovani putnici!

always publish our business results for the previous year. We are very pleased that our restructuring programme has been yielding good results and that we ended last year with a profit, which will make it possible for our company to continue its business operations smoothly. I would like to thank all the hardworking members of our company’s staff for that. The first days of spring coincide with the introduction of the summer flight schedule, which will be in effect from 30 March to 25 October. We will be introducing some new services. Our aircraft will connect Split with Athens, Lyon and Belgrade, Dubrovnik and Pula with Amsterdam, Zagreb with Barcelona, and we will also increase the number of departures on the routes from Split to Munich and from Dubrovnik to Zurich and Paris. I am certain that the new seats we have built into our A320 aircraft will add to your comfort and enhance the flying experience. The seats in question are Recaro, the same ones that already feature on our A319 aircraft. And as you are sitting comfortably in our new seats, I suggest that you leaf through our in-flight magazine. At the beginning, we introduce the young Croatian scientist Vernesa SmolËiÊ, a member of an international team of scientists whose research is the latest in space science. We believe you will find it interesting to learn how well known Amsterdam-based designers see the identity of the capital of Croatia. As for the natural wealth of our country, we invite you to visit Krka National Park, not far from the equally beautiful city of ©ibenik. We hope you will enjoy the text and photos which are a true reflection of the atmosphere that reigns there. If you are more intrigued by continental Croatia, we suggest that you visit Poæega, a Slavonian town steeped in history, whose equally rich gastronomy is represented in the unique Museum in a Pot. The foreign destination we take you to in this issue of the magazine is the particularly charming French Lyon. Dear passengers, we are looking forward to seeing you on one of our upcoming flights. Until then, we hope you spend pleasant and relaxing moments at your final destination, and if it is business that takes you there, we wish you a lot of success and fruitful business meetings. Vaš, Sincerely yours,

Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

Krešimir KuËko Predsjednik Uprave President & CEO

■ SADRÆAJ 6

Razgovor: Vernesa SmolËiÊ

HRVATSKA ZVIJEZDA ZNANOSTI O ZVIJEZDAMA Mlada astroﬁziËarka dr. Vernesa SmolËiÊ, docentica na Prirodoslovno-matematiËkom fakultetu SveuËiliπta u Zagrebu, dio je meunarodnoga znanstvenog tima Ëija su istraæivanja posljednja rijeË u znanosti o svemiru, a Ëesto je u zrakoplovu. 16 Dizajn

POGLED IZNUTRA I SA STRANE Studij dizajna pri Arhitektonskom fakultetu SveuËiliπta u Zagrebu i nizozemski dizajn studio andrews.degen u travnju provode kreativnu radionicu o identitetu Zagreba. 26 Izložbe

MARIJINA INDUSTRIJA LJEPOTE ZagrebaËki Muzej za umjetnost i obrt ugostio je zanimljivu izloæbu koja je javnosti predstavila rad dizajnerice kozmetiËkih proizvoda Marije KataleniÊ, od 1963. do 1985. godine. 40 Nacionalni parkovi

KRKA, PRSKAVA SMARAGDNA LJEPOTICA Nedaleko od ©ibenika, tek nekoliko kilometara od mora, pred posjetiteljima se poput slikovnice otvara zeleni biser prirodnih ljepota koje je svojim razigranim tijekom oblikovala nestaπna voda rijeke Krke. 60 Kontinentalna Hrvatska

VIKEND U POÆEGI Vikend u Poæegi moæe vas smiriti i razgaliti, a vrijedi truda i posjetiti obliænje KutjevaËke vinograde kao i prelijepi park prirode Papuk. 74 Priroda

©ODERICA, PODRAVSKO MORE U pitomoj Podravini kod Koprivnice na jezerima zvanima πodericama kupaËi uæivaju u radostima na vodi. Desetak takvih jezera zrcali se u ravnici na zalazeÊem suncu, blizu obale rijeke Drave… 84 Naπe odrediπte

LYON, PRIJESTOLNICA SVJETLA S dvije tisuÊe godina ljepote i πarma jednakoga pariπkome, Lyon je nekako uspio ostati najbolje Ëuvana francuska tajna…Upoznati Francusku i njezin ritam u kojemu se ljubomorno Ëuva vrijeme za sebe, znaËi zaraziti se neizljeËivom Ëeænjom da opet jednom otputujete tamo. 106 Umjetnost

UZBURKANA NADARENOST ZLATANA VEHABOVIΔA ZagrepËanin Zlatan VehaboviÊ, slikar vrtoglavog uspona, svojom umjetnoπÊu traæi smisao vlastite egzistencije i odgovore na univerzalna pitanja tko smo, πto smo i zaπto smo… 110 Fotograﬁja

PETER LINDBERGH, UMJETNIK, VIZIONAR, REVOLUCIONAR NjemaËki fotograf poljskih korijena promijenio je svojim pristupom viziju fotografske umjetnosti dajuÊi potpuno novo znaËenje crno-bijeloj fotograﬁji, naglaπavajuÊi æensku ljepotu kao pokretaËa svojih ideja. 2

CROATIA AIRLINES

ProljeÊe/Spring 2014

www.croatiaairlines.com

CROATIA AIRLINES

■ CONTENTS 6

Interview: Vernesa SmolËiÊ

A STAR OF CROATIAN SCIENCE ON STARS The young astrophysicist, Vernesa SmolËiÊ, D.Sc, an assistant professor at the Faculty of Science of the University of Zagreb, and a member of an international team of scientists whose research is the ultimate in space science, is also a frequent ﬂyer on our aircraft. 16 Design

A VIEW FROM INSIDE, A VIEW FROM THE SIDE In the month of April, the School of Design at the Faculty of Architecture of the University of Zagreb and the Dutch design studio andrews:degen will organize a creative workshop dealing with the identity of Zagreb. 26 Exhibitions

MARIJA’S BEAUTY INDUSTRY Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts is hosting an interesting exhibition which presents the works by the beauty products designer Marija KalentiÊ, spanning from 1963 to 1985. 40 National Parks

KRKA - SPLASHING EMERALD BEAUTY At a stone’s throw from ©ibenik, only a few kilometres from the sea, the Krka National Park is a green pearl which opens itself to visitors like a picture book; its natural beauties have been created by the playful waters of the river. 60 Inland Croatia

A WEEKEND IN POÆEGA A weekend in Poæega can calm you and put you in a good mood, and it is also worth the effort to visit the nearby Kutjevo Vineyards as well as the beautiful Nature Park Papuk. 74 Nature

©ODERICA - THE PODRAVINA SEA In tame Podravina, near Koprivnica, on the lakes known as ©oderica, is a place popular with those in pursuit of waterside pleasures. A dozen of such lakes shimmer in the valley and bask in the glorious sunset, close to the banks of the Drava River… 84 Our Destinations

LYON - THE CAPITAL OF LIGHTS Despite the two thousand years of charm and beauty on a par with Paris, Lyon has managed to remain the best kept French secret… Getting to know France and its rhythm, in which time is jealously guarded for oneself, means becoming infected with the incurable desire to go back. 106 Art

WHIRLWIND SUCCESS STORY OF ZLATAN VEHABOVIΔ Zagreb native Zlatan VehaboviÊ, a painter with a whirlwind success story, uses his art to ponder the meaning of his own existence and ﬁnd answers to the universal questions: Who are we? What are we? Why are we? 28 Photography

PETER LINDBERGH ∑ REVOLUTIONARY, ARTIST, VISIONARY The German photographer of Polish descent changed the vision of photographic art with his approach, and he gave a completely new meaning to black and white photography by emphasizing female beauty as the generator of all of his ideas. 4

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Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak

This is your personal copy

CROATIA AIRLINES

■ RAZGOVOR VERNESA SMOL»IΔ

CROATIA AIRLINES

Piπe/By Davorka Vukov ColiÊ

Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

INTERVIEW VERNESA SMOL»IΔ ■

CROATIA AIRLINES

»esto je u zrakoplovu, na putu od jednoga do drugog kontinenta, sveuËiliπta i istraæivaËkih centara, u potrazi za novim galaksijama i crnim rupama. Mlada astroﬁziËarka dr. Vernesa SmolËiÊ, docentica na PrirodoslovnomatematiËkom fakultetu SveuËiliπta u Zagrebu, dio je meunarodnoga znanstvenog tima Ëija su istraæivanja posljednja rijeË u znanosti o svemiru.

A frequent ﬂier who travels from one continent to the next, from a university to a research centre, the young astrophysicist Vernesa SmolËiÊ, D.Sc, is on a quest for new galaxies and black holes. She is an assistant professor at the PMF (the Faculty of Science of the University of Zagreb) and a member of an international team of scientists whose research is the ultimate in space science. 8

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an nakon ovoga razgovora sa zagrebaËkom astrofiziËarkom dr. Vernesom SmolËiÊ, iz Finske je na Prirodoslovno-matematiËki fakultet SveuËiliπta u Zagrebu stigao mladi postdoktorand dr. Oskari Miettinen. Izabran na meunarodnom natjeËaju kao najbolji kandidat za prvog Ëlana tima od πestero mladih astrofiziËara za rad na tzv. JVLA-COSMOS-u, znanstvenom istraæivanju naπe sugovornice, on Êe provesti u Zagrebu sljedeÊe Ëetiri godine. − Ideja je zaposliti joπ dva postdoktoranda i jednoga doktorskog studenta, a za godinu dana dopunit Êemo ostatak ekipe - kaæe docentica na PMF-u dr. SmolËiÊ. RijeË je o projektu duga naslova - Istraæivanje rasta zvjezdane mase i mase supermasivnih crnih rupa u galaksijama kroz kozmiËko vrijeme: Utiranje puta za sljedeÊu generaciju pregleda neba (Constraining Stellar Mass and Supermassive Black Hole Growth through Cosmic Times: Paving the way for the next generation sky surveys) - za koji je Europsko istraæivaËko vijeÊe (ERC) Vernesi SmolËiÊ proπloga ljeta odobrilo milijun i pol eura sredstava namijenjenih istraæivaËima poËetnicima.Temelji se na radiopregledima neba koje dr. SmolËiÊ vodi za meunarodne projekte XXL i COSMOS (istraæivanje evolucije svemira), s naglaskom na istraæivanje postanka i razvoja galaksija i crnih rupa, te se tako i Hrvatska aktivno ukljuËuje u velika meunarodna astrofiziËka istraæivanja. Konkurencija je bila golema (3329 prijava i samo devet posto prihvaÊenih), a 34-godiπnja astrofiziËarka postala je prva znanstvenica u Hrvatskoj kojoj je ta neovisna grupa uglednih europskih znanstvenika iskazala tako izdaπno povjerenje, pa nije Ëudno πto su se o njoj i njezinu projektu iznenada raspisali svi domaÊi mediji. ©toviπe, naπla se i meu finalistima vodeÊega hrvatskog dnevnika VeËernji list nagrade za Osobu godine, zajedno s politiËarima, sucima i pilotima Croatia Airlinesa, u druπtvu u kojemu se prema znanosti obiËno odnosi kao o samozatajnoj djelatnosti. Astrofizikom se poËela baviti na treÊoj godini studija, iako prije toga nije bila ni astronomamater. PripremajuÊi diplomski rad iz fizike uz pomoÊ prof. Kreπimira Pavlovskog s PMF-a i astrofiziËara prof. Æeljka IveziÊa, profesora na SveuËiliπtu Washington u Seattleu, u Princetonu je za mjesec dana boravka napravila mali istraæivaËki projekt, dovoljno da se − kako kaæe − zaljubi u posao znanstvenika. Nakon diplome na PMF-u, doktorirala je na SveuËiliπtu u Heidelbergu radeÊi disertaciju na Institutu Maxa Plancka za astronomiju, bila na postdoktoratu u Kalifornijskom institutu za tehnologiju CalTech, usavrπavala se na SveuËiliπtu u Bonnu i European Southern Observatoryju (ESO), te

nakon desetljeÊa iskustva u poËetku proπle godine vratila u Zagreb. Na PMF-u vodi nekoliko dodiplomskih i poslijediplomskih kolegija, a zagrebaËki je fakultet i stalna baza u kojoj Êe se njezin meunarodni znanstveni tim sljedeÊih pet godina baviti spomenutim istraæivanjima. »esto u zrakoplovu, godinama na putu od jednoga do drugog kontinenta, sveuËiliπta, instituta i istraæivaËkih centara, u potrazi za novim galaksijama i crnim rupama, u Hrvatskom ﬁzikalnom druπtvu stigne voditi i grupu æena u znanosti, a od 12. do 16. svibnja ove godine organizirati u Dubrovniku meunarodni simpozij astroﬁzaËa, o temi Pankromatski pregledi neba: Stvaranje i razvoj galaksija od ranog svemira do danas, oËekujuÊi 250 sudionika, te zatim u Zagrebu u Westin hotelu viπednevni sastanak znanstvene grupe COSMOS, oËekujuÊi stotinjak sudionika. ■ Potkraj sijeËnja znanstveni Ëasopis Astrophysical Journal objavio je otkriÊe meunarodne skupine istraæivaËa, kojoj ste i Vi Ëlan, a govori o babyboomu u ranom svemiru. Prvi je put, kaæe izvjeπÊe, rekonstruiran razvoj najmasivnijih galaksija od ranog svemira. O Ëemu je rijeË? − Na temelju podataka sa svemirskih teleskopa, Hubble, Spitzer i Herschel satelita i raznih teleskopa smjeπtenih na Zemlji, otkrili smo u COSMOS (Cosmic Evolution Survey) polju povijest stvaranja najmasivnijih galaksija u ranom svemiru, od poËetnog babybooma − erupcije raanja novih zvijezda − do njihova veoma zbijenog izgleda, nakon Ëega slijedi krajnja sudbina u divovskim eliptiËnim galaksijama. Naime, galaksije rastu prirastom novih zvijezda koje se raaju iz plina i praπine unutar same galaksije. Odreenim tipovima, tzv. crvenim i mrtvim galaksijama, u ranom je svemiru svojstven brzi æivot i rana smrt. Pod umiranjem galaksija u ranom svemiru razumijevamo to što su se prestale raati nove zvijezde veÊ tri milijarde godina nakon Velikog praska, za razliku od naπe MlijeËne staze koja i danas, 13,7 milijardi godina nakon Velikog praska, joπ raa nove zvijezde. ■ ReËeno je da su ti rezultati omoguÊeni stvaranjem dvaju reprezentativnih uzoraka galaksija, od kojih je jedan uzorak tzv. ispodmilimetarskih galaksija nastao pod Vaπim vodstvom. ©to je njime postignuto? − Zajedno s ostalim podacima, njime smo odredili veliËine zvjezdanih masa i brzine stvaranja novih zvijezda u ovome vaænom uzorku vrlo ranih praπnih galaksija. UsporeujuÊi ga s uzorkom zbijenih crvenih i mrtvih eliptiËnih galaksija koje æive u razdoblju svemira tri milijarde godina nakon Velikog praska, otkrili smo vezu izmeu zbijenih crvenih i mrtvih eliptiËnih i praπnih ispodmilimetarskih galaksija koje

intenzivno raaju nove zvijezde, jednu do dvije milijarde godina prije nastanka zbijenih crvenih i mrtvih galaksija. ■ Nedavno ste se vratili iz Australije. Kojim ste povodom ondje boravili? − Provela sam tri mjeseca na posebnoj, tromjeseËnoj stipendiji GO8 (Group of Eight), koju Australci nude mladim znanstvenicima iz zemalja jugoistoËne Europe, do pet godina iskustva nakon doktorata. Tako æele omoguÊiti suradnju izmeu Australije i Hrvatske. Radila sam s kolegama, ne samo u Sidneyu, nego i u Canberri i Perthu, na projektima kojima se inaËe bavim, poglavito opaæanjima posebnih dijelova neba zanimljivih u ovome trenutku. Æivimo u zlatno doba radioastronomije kad se ulaæu milijarde u nove projekte i instrumente. Neki Êe biti dostupni veÊ vrlo skoro, neki nakon 2020., i to Êe nam omoguÊiti da joπ dublje uemo u svemir. Osobito se to vidi u Australiji, veoma pogodnoj za radioastronomiju, jer prostrana je, ima suhu klimu, a nema mnogo ljudi, zbog Ëega je idealno mjesto za radioastronomiju, pa nije Ëudno πto u tome ima dugu i cijenjenu tradiciju. ■ ©ezdesetih godina proπloga stoljeÊa bili smo uzbueni zbog prvih koraka na Mjesecu, a onda je polako splasnulo πiroko medijsko zanimanje za istraæivanja svemira. Ipak, u nas se odavna ne sjeÊam tolikog zanimanja πiroke javnosti za tako neuhvatljivu temu kao πto su Vaπe zvjezdane mase i mase supermasivnih crnih rupa u galaksijama kroz kozmiËko vrijeme. Kako to tumaËite? −Vjerujem da je jedan od razloga to πto sam dobila tako vaæan grant za istraæivanje. Konkurencija je zaista bila velika, tim viπe πto ga Europsko istraæivaËko vijeÊe u veoma ograniËenom broju dodjeljuje za sva podruËja prirodoslovnih i druπtvenih znanosti. ■ Kaæete da se bavite pregledima neba. Kakva je to metoda i koliko je πiroko podruËje vaπega pregleda? − U suvremenoj astroﬁzici to je najbolji naËin dobivanja cjelokupne slike razvoja i stvaranja galaksija. Promatramo tzv. COSMOS polje na nebu. Tako smo, naime, nazvali podruËje na nebu veliËine dva kvadratna stupnja. To je kvadrat od 3 puta 3 Mjeseca, a pronaπli smo ga s pomoÊu gotovo svih svjetskih teleskopa, od klasiËnih optiËkih, do onih u rendgenskom podruËju koje oko ne vidi, satelita i teleskopa koji snimaju u infracrvenom podruËju i radiopodruËja za koje koristimo antene poput onih u Novome Meksiku, koje ste mogli vidjeti u ﬁlmu Kontakt s Jodie Foster. Pregledom COSMOS-a æelimo naÊi odgovor na to kakve zvijezde æive u tim galaksijama, je li rijeË o veoma mladim, vruÊim ili starim, hladnim zvijezdama, te kako

raste srediπnja supermasivna crna rupa u tim galaksijama. OËekujemo otkriti desetak tisuÊa novih galaksija koje zraËe u tom radiopodruËju. ■ Govorite o supermasivnoj crnoj rupi. ©to je to? − Crna se rupa najlakπe moæe zamisliti kao krajnji produkt jedne masivne zvijezde. AstrofiziËari danas misle da svaka galaksija ima u svom srediπtu supermasivnu crnu rupu, a svemir je pun galaksija. ■ Je li bila najprije crna rupa, pa galaksija, ili obrnuto? − Na to nemamo odgovora. To su upravo ona vaæna pitanja koja danas jedva moæemo doseÊi i jedna su od tema kojom Êe se astrofiziËari baviti u daljnjim istraæivanjima. Teorija upuÊuje na to da su u poËetku svemira nastale vjerojatno mnogo masivnije zvijezde od onih koje danas poznajemo i da je njihova smrt vezana uza stvaranje prvih masivnih crnih rupa. ■ Koja su vam sve materijalna sredstva potrebna za rad? − Izvrsna raËunala, brza internetska veza i najfiniji set teleskopa. ©to se tiËe radioastrofizike, to su Australia Telescope Compact Array (ATCA) u australskom Narrabriju, Very Large Array (VLA) pokraj Socorroa u Novome Meksiku i Alma, najbolji VLA interferometar u Ëileanskoj pustinji Atacama. S pomoÊu njih pripremate opaæanja, pa sam i ja neko vrijeme provela u Novome Meksiku radeÊi na VLA podacima. Umjesto vas, neka opaæanja moæe obaviti i service operator te podaci budu dostavljeni internetom. To je moguÊe s teleskopima u Novome Meksiku, za razliku od australskih, na kojima morate sami raditi. ■ ZnaËi, bit Êe dalekih putovanja. − Da, bit Êe ih. Zato i jesmo od ERC-a dobili milijun i pol eura za nabavu opreme, zapoπljavanje ljudi i putne troπkove. ■ Na projektu COSMOS radi stotinjak znanstvenika iz desetak zemalja, na najnovijem otkriÊu objavljenom u Astrophysical Journalu radilo je dvadeset znanstvenika s razliËitih strana svijeta. Koji su razlozi tako intenzivne internacionalizacije? − Jedan od osnovnih razloga jest skupoÊa teleskopa. U njihov se razvoj ulaæu milijarde i bilo bi ih neracionalno i nemoguÊe graditi u svakoj znanstvenoj sredini. Zato i ove postojeÊe rabi cijela astrofiziËka zajednica, pa smo i mi za naπe buduÊe projekte dobili 400 sati njihova koriπtenja. U svijetu se grade novi radioteleskopi, mnogo precizniji od danaπnjih i vrlo skoro Êe nam omoguÊiti dublji ulazak u svemir. I VLA u Novome Meksiku u posljednje je vrijeme tako unaprijedio instrumentaciju da je sada deseterostruko bolji nego u poËetku. Vaæan je razlog i razvoj raËunala i interneta,

bez Ëega se ne moæe zamisliti astrofizika na danaπnjem stupnju istraæivanja. ■ U medijima se spominju i neki drugi mladi astrofiziËari iz Hrvatske, poput dr. Diane Dominis Kresti sa SveuËiliπta u Rijeci, Ëlanice meunarodne grupe znanstvenika koji su nedavno objavili rezultate πestogodiπnjeg istraæivanja, dokazujuÊi da su u naπoj galaksiji mnogobrojni planeti poput Zemlje. Koliko vas je danas u Hrvatskoj? − Mislim da nas je dvadesetak u Hrvatskoj, iz Zagreba, Rijeke, Splita i »akovca. ■ Nedavno sam u Die Zeitu naiπla na seriju portreta o nepravedno zaboravljenim heroinama 19. i 20. stoljeÊa, znanstvenicama i intelektualkama, u kojoj je objavljen krasan tekst o ameriËkoj astronomkinji Mariji Mitchell. Ona je istraæivala u vrijeme kada je æenama bio zabranjen veÊi pristup teleskopu. Koliko danas ima æena u astrofizici i πto uopÊe znaËi podjela na muπko-æensko u znanosti? − U svijetu danas ima oko 7000 profesionalnih astrofiziËara − jedan na milijun stanovnika − koji publiciraju u astrofiziËkim znanstvenim Ëasopisima. Podjela je prema spolovima oko pola-pola, ali samo u najmlaoj generaciji, na poslijediplomskom studiju, a strmoglavo pada na razini profesure. To se razlikuje od zemlje do zemlje, pa je podjela u jugoistoËnoj Europi i Juænoj Americi mnogo ravnomjernija nego, primjerice, u zapadnoj Europi ili SAD. Da bi se iskoristio potpuni znanstveni potencijal, treba, dakako, teæiti ravnomjernoj podjeli. ■ ©to mislite, kakva Êe biti astrofizika na kraju Vaπega radnoga vijeka? − Projekti idu naprijed, pogotovo sada s ovim pregledima neba. Imat Êemo savrπeniju instrumentaciju koja Êe nam omoguÊiti da se znatno viπe pribliæimo Velikom prasku. ■ Jesmo li sami u svemiru? − »ini se da je razvoj planeta normalan proces pri nastanku zvijezda, veÊina zvijezda ima svoj planetarni sustav, milijarde zvijezda tvore galaksiju, a u svemiru je milijarde galaksija. Jesmo li sami? Prema teoriji vjerojatnosti ne moæemo zanemariti mguÊnost da se negdje drugdje dogodilo neπto sliËno kao na naπem planetu, iako to za sada ne moæemo dokazati. ■ ©to kaæete na to da Vas nazivaju hrvatskom zvijezdom u znanosti o zvijezdama? − Vrlo laskavo. ■

day after this interview with the Zagreb-based astrophysicist, Vernesa SmolËiÊ, D.Sc, a young postdoctoral student, Oskari Miettinen, arrived at the Faculty of Science of the University of Zagreb from Finland. He had been selected in an international CROATIA AIRLINES

competition as the first member of a team of six young astrophysicists who will work on Dr. SmolËiÊ’s scientific research project JVLACOSMOS and who will spend the next four years in Zagreb. ∑ The idea is to hire another two postdoctoral students and a doctoral student to start with. In a year, we will complete the team, says the assistant professor at the PMF, Dr. SmolËiÊ. The project’s name is long and quite a mouthful: Constraining Stellar Mass and Super Massive Black Hole Growth through Cosmic Times: Paving the Way for the Next Generation Sky Surveys. Last summer, the European Research Centre granted Vernesa SmolËiÊ one and a half million euro for it from the funds allocated for starting researchers. The research project is based on sky surveys which Dr. SmolËiÊ runs for the international project XXL and COSMOS (space evolution research), with an emphasis on the research of the formation and evolution of galaxies and black holes. In this way, Croatia has become actively involved in major international astrophysics research. The competition for the grant was fierce indeed (3,329 applications, of which only nine percent were accepted) and the 34-year old astrophysicist has become the first scientist in Croatia whom this independent group of prominent European scientists entrusted with such a generous research project fund. Therefore, it is not surprising that she and her project have become a local media darling overnight. Moreover, she has found a place among the finalists of the Personality of the Year Award, organized by the leading Croatian daily, VeËernji list, side by side with politicians, judges and Croatia Airlines pilots, in a society which treats science as a rather unassuming activity. She developed a keen interest in astrophysics as a third year college student, although she was not even an amateur astronomer beforehand. While she was preparing her graduation thesis with the help of Professor Kreπimir Pavlovski from Zagreb’s Faculty of Science and astrophysicist Æeljko IveziÊ, a professor at Washington University in Seattle, she stayed in Princeton for a month and created a research project. Albeit small, the project was big enough to make her fall in love with the job of a scientist, as she says. Having graduated from Zagreb’s Faculty of Science, she obtained her doctoral degree from the University of Heidelberg, working on a dissertation at the Max Planck Institute for Astronomy; she underwent postdoctoral studies at CalTech, the Technology Institute of California, she continued her studies at the University of Bonn and the European 10

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Southern Observatory (ESO). With ten years of experience under her belt, she returned to Zagreb at the beginning of last year. At the PMF, she is in charge of several graduate and postgraduate modules, and the Zagrebbased school is also the permanent address at which her international scientific team will work for the next five years and carry out the aforementioned research. A frequent flyer she travels from one continent to another, and moves between universities, institutes and research centres in pursuit of new galaxies and black holes. Parallel with that, she still finds the time to lead a group of women in science who are affiliated with the Croatian Association of Physicist. In addition, between May 12 and 16 of this year, she will organize an international symposium of astrophysicists in Dubrovnik. The topic is Multiwavelength-surveys: Galaxy Formation and Evolution from the Early Universe to Today. The symposium is expected to attract 250 participants. This will be followed by a meeting in Zagreb’s Westin Hotel of the COSMOS scientific group. It will span several days and it is expected to gather around 100 participants. ■ In late January, the scientific magazine Astrophysical Journal published a discovery made by an international group of researchers, of which you are also a member, about the baby boom in early cosmic space. According to the report, the evolution of the most massive galaxies from early space onwards has been reconstructed for the first time. What is this all about? ∑ Owing to the data sent by the space telescopes Hubble, Spitzer and Herschel satellites, as well as various telescopes deployed all around the Earth, we have discovered in the COSMOS (Cosmic Evolution Survey) a history of the formation of the most massive galaxies in early cosmic space, from the initial baby boom ∑ an eruption of the birth of new stars, to their extremely clustered appearance, followed by their ultimate fate in the gigantic ecliptic galaxies. Namely, galaxies grow with the creation of new stars which are born from gases and dust within galaxies themselves. The characteristic of certain types, the so-called red and dead galaxies, was that they lived fast and died young in early cosmic space. The death of galaxies in early cosmic space means that they stopped bearing new stars as early as three billion years after the Big Bang, unlike our own Milky Way, which even today, 14.7 billion years after the Big Bang, still bears new stars. ■ Apparently, these results have been made possible by the creation of two

representative galaxy samples. One of them, the so-called Sub-Millimetre Galaxies (SMGs) was created under your leadership. What were you able to achieve with that? ∑ In combination with other data, it allowed us to calculate the size of star masses and the rate of new star creation in this very important sample of very young dusty galaxies. When comparing that with the sample of clustered red and dead elliptical galaxies which lived in the life cycle of the universe three billion years after the Big Bang, we discovered a connection between the clustered red and dead elliptical galaxies on the one hand, and dusty Sub-Millimetre Galaxies, on the other. The latter were the source of intense star creation one or two billion years before the formation of clustered red and dead galaxies. ■ You have just recently returned from Australia. What took you there? ∑ I spent three months there thanks to a special, three-month GO8 (Group of Eight) grant which the Australians offer to young scientists from countries of Southeast Europe who completed their doctoral studies no longer than ﬁve years ago. That is how they wish to facilitate cooperation between Australia and Croatia. I worked with colleagues, not only in Sidney but also in Canberra and Perth, on projects that I usually work on, particularly on observations of some special parts of the sky which are quite interesting at the moment. We live in the golden age of astronomy, and billions are invested in new projects and instruments. Some will be available very soon, some after 2020, and they will allow us to penetrate space even deeper. This is particularly evident in Australia, a country conducive to radio astronomy because it is spacious, it has a dry climate, and it is sparsely populated which makes it the ideal place for radio astronomy. It is, therefore, not surprising that it boasts a long and well respected tradition in this area. ■ In the sixties of last century, we were all excited about man’s ﬁrst steps on the moon, and then the broad media interest in space research gradually subsided. I do not remember a time when the general public showed so much interest in such an elusive topic as your star masses and the masses of super massive black holes in galaxies through cosmic times. How do you account for that? ∑ I believe that is one of the reasons for the fact that I have landed such an important research grant. The competition was really impressive, more so due to the fact that the European Research Council awards a very limited number

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of grants to projects from all areas of natural and social sciences. ■ You say that what you do is sky surveys. What method do you use and how vast is your survey area? ∑ In modern astrophysics, this is the best way to obtain an integral picture of how galaxies were formed and how they evolved. What we are surveying is the so-called COSMOS field in the sky. This is the name we have given to a two square degree area in the sky which equals to a square of 3 by 3 moons. We have defined this area with the help of nearly all the telescopes in the world, ranging from classical to optical, to those in an X-ray area invisible to the naked eye, satellites and telescopes which operate in the infrared area and radio areas for which we use antennas, like those in New Mexico that you can see in the movie Contact featuring Jodie Foster. By surveying COSMOS we seek to find answers to the question on the types of stars which live in those galaxies, whether they are very young and hot or old and cold, and how central super massive black holes in these galaxies grow. We expect to discover some dozen thousand new galaxies which radiate in that area. ■ You are talking about a super massive black hole. What is that? ∑ The easiest way to imagine a black hole is to imagine it as the ultimate product of a massive star. Today, astrophysicists believe that nearly every galaxy has a super massive black hole in its centre, and the universe is full of galaxies. ■ What came first: a black hole followed by a galaxy, or the other way round? ∑ We have no answer to that. These are precisely the important questions that currently elude us and one of the topics that will preoccupy astrophysicists in their future research. Theory indicates that stars were the first to be created in the universe, but also that they were much more massive than the ones we know today, and that their death was linked to the creation of the first massive black holes. ■ What kind of equipment do you need for your work? ∑ Excellent computers, a fast internet connection and the most sophisticated set of telescopes. When it comes to astrophysics, there are the Australia Telescope Compact Array (ATCA) in Australian Narrabri, Very Large Array (VLA) near Socorro in New Mexico, and Alma, the best VLA interferometer in the Chilean Atacama desert. They enable you to prepare your observations, which is why I spent some time in New Mexico working on VLA data. Some observations can be carried out by a service operator instead of being there 12

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personally, and they send the data to you by internet. This is possible with the telescopes in New Mexico, unlike with the Australian ones, where your presence is mandatory. ■ Long haul travels are, therefore, in the offing? ∑ Yes, they are. That is one of the reasons we were granted a million and a half euro from the ERC ∑ to purchase equipment, to employ people and to pay for the cost of travel. ■ The COSMOS project involves the work of a hundred or so scientists from a dozen or so countries. The most recent discovery publicised in the Astrophysical Journal involved the work of some 20 scientists from all over the world. What are the reasons behind such an intense internationalisation? ∑ One of the primary reasons is the costliness of telescopes. Billions are invested in their development and it would be not only irrational but also impossible to have them built in every scientific environment. This is why the existing ones are used by the entire astrophysics community. We have been allocated 400 hours of their use for our own future projects. The new radio telescopes which are being constructed around the world are much more precise than the existing ones. Very soon, they will allow us to penetrate space even more deeply. The VLA in New Mexico has improved its instrumentation, so much so that it is now ten times better than at the beginning. Another important reason is the development of computers and the internet∑ the two things without which astrophysics research as we know it would be impossible. ■ Some other young Croatian astrophysicists are mentioned in the media, for example, Dr. Diana Dominis Kresti from Rijeka University, a member of the international group of scientists who have recently publicised the results of a six-yearlong research project and proved thereby that there are a number of planets like our own Earth in our galaxy. How many of you are there currently in Croatia? ∑ I believe that there are some 20 of us, in Zagreb, Rijeka, Split and »akovec. ■ Recently, while leafing through Die Zeit, I came across a series of portraits of the unfairly forgotten heroines of the 19th and 20th centuries, all scientists and intellectuals. Among the articles was a beautiful text about the American astronomer Maria Mitchell. She did her research at a time when women could not come anywhere near a telescope, let alone do research. How many women are there in astrophysics today? And more to the point, how

significant is the division along gender lines in science? ∑ Currently, there are approximately 7,000 astrophysicists in the world, one in every million inhabitants, whose work is publicised in scientific publications specializing in astrophysics. The gender ratio is about half half, but only among the youngest generations, among postgraduate students. At the faculty level, there is a very pronounced misbalance. This differs from one country to the next, so that the ratios in Southeast Europe and South America are much more balanced than, for example, in Western Europe and the USA. Obviously, we need to strive for a more favourable ratio in order to fully exploit the existing scientific potential. ■ According to you, how will astrophysics develop during your career? ∑ Projects are making big steps forward, especially now, with the sky views we have. We can look forward to more sophisticated instruments which will allow us to get much closer to the Big Bang. ■ Are we alone in the universe? ∑ It seems that the development of planets is a normal part of the star formation process; most of the stars have their own planet systems; billions of stars make up a galaxy and there are billions of galaxies in the universe. Are we alone? According to the probability theory, we cannot ignore the fact that something similar to what happened on our planet may have happened somewhere else, although for the time being we cannot prove it. ■ How do you feel about being called a star of Croatian star science? ∑ Very flattered. ■

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most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.

To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËnu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2011. godine, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima. Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica − kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. prosinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine. Hrvatska je od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica Europske unije. This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. By the 2011 census, Croatia’s population is 4,284,889. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The ofﬁcial language is Croatian, and the ofﬁcial script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova. National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice 14

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Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima iz svih ra zdoblja, zbog burnih povijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja ra zliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karak teriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog ra zdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakralna baπtina te niz oËuvanih karak teristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je sred njoe uropsko ga kultur nog kruga i isti Ëe se mnogim prapovijesnim nala zima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitek turom iz ra zdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine. A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of influences of different cultures. Its coast is characterized by the influences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monuments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental complexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik. The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − najveÊe turistiËko iznenaenje te hit-odrediπte na Sredozemlju. Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, priobalje te kontinentalni dio zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u 2012. godini u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima zabilježili su oko 11,835.000 turista, od kojih je stranih oko 10,369.000. Turisti su ostvarili u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima oko 62,743.000 noÊenja. Hoteli, turistiËka naselja i apartmani, hosteli, kampovi, sobe i apartmani u kuÊanstvima te ostale vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim standardima. Bogata je kulturna ponuda, kongresna i wellnes ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, charter ponuda (iznajmljivanje plovila za razonodu i sport), kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih i biciklistiËkih staza, vinske ceste, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti… Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja, nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluau toce sta Hrvatska je bliæa ne go ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mno gih hrvatskih oto ka, pri jevoz trajek tom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od svakodnevice miljama i miljama daleko... Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has be en a hit de stination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international exper ts in tourism. According to data from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, the Croatian tourist destinations located on the islands, along the coast and in the continental part of the country, including the capital city of Zagreb, recorded roughly 11.8 million tourists (11,835,600 tourists) in commercial accommodation facilities in 2012, of whom around 10.4 foreign tourists. Tourists realized about 62,743,000 overnight stays. Hotels, tourist villages and apartments, hostels, camps, rooms and apartments in private homes and other forms of accommodation, such as modern nautical centres, are equipped in line with international standards. There is a rich cultural offer, together with the congress and wellness offer, sport-recreation and entertainment contents, the charter offer (renting sailing vessels for leisure and sport), many kilometres of well-groomed walking and cycling paths, wine roads, sightseeing

excursions that include natural and cultural treasures... Novac i naËin plaÊanja Ku na je na ziv novËa ne je di ni ce Re pu bli ke Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp). NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima − 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac − 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima.

Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Ku na (kn). In cir cu la ti on are ban knotes in Ku na and co ins in Ku na and Li pa (lp) ∑ one hun dredth of a Ku na. The ban knotes are issu ed in the fol lowing de no mi na ti ons: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Ku na, whi le the de no mi na ti on struc tu re of the co ins is 1, 2 and 5 Ku na and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Li pa (100 Li pa = 1 Ku na). Pay men ts can be made by cre dit card (Di ners, Vi sa, Ame ri can Ex pre ss, Eu ro card and Ma stercard), as well as eu ro-chec ks. Ca sh can be wit hdrawn from AT Ms.

Kartografski laboratorij Križovan

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Izravne domaÊe linije Direct domestic routes Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalne / regular sezonske ljetne / seasonal in summer

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Hana Tintor

Jana ObradoviÊ

Studenti studija dizajna na izloæbi dizajna DAN D/

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Students of the School of Design at the Design Exhibition D DAY

DIZAJN DESIGN ■

Piše/By Fedja VukiÊ Ralf Mitsch

Fotograﬁje i ilustracije Arhiva Studija dizajna/ Photos and illustrations School of Design archive Marc Andrews & Christian Degen

rad Zagreb je tijekom stoljeÊa i pol moderne povijesti izgradio veÊi dio vlastitog urbanog identiteta, preko razliËite druπtveno-politiËke, ekonomske i kulturne prakse. Studij dizajna pri Arhitektonskom fakultetu, kao dio SveuËiliπta u Zagrebu, tijekom dvadeset pet godina djelovanja stvorio je oko πest stotina diplomiranih dizajnera koji danas tvore najveÊi dio scene tog segmenta kreativne industrije u Zagrebu i u Hrvatskoj. Kao interdisciplinarno ustrojen preddiplomski i diplomski studij ovaj je visokoπkolski program orijentiran prema projektiranju materijalne i simboliËne okoline, a jedno od obilježja Studija dizajna jesu i diplomske teze koje se bave identitetom lokalne zajednice, pa tako i gradova. Dizajn studio andrews:degen utemeljili su u Amsterdamu graﬁËki dizajneri Marc Andrews i Chris Degen, prije svega s namjerom da stvaraju druπtveno angaæirane vizualne komunikacije i da potiËu socijalni dijalog svojim radom. U portfoliju svojih aktivnosti imaju niz ostvarenja u razliËitim domenama komuniciranja. Vaæan dio njihova kreativnog angaæmana jesu i radionice o identitetu

Velik dio vrijednosti aktualnog identiteta grada sadræan je u stalnoj interakciji graana i grada, ali i onih koji kao posjetitelji dolaze u Zagreb. Zbog dostupnosti transporta a i virtualnih druπtvenih mreæa, svaki grad danas, svako mjesto æivljenja može analizirati i graditi vlastiti identitet u suodnosu stalnih i povremenih stanovnika. Studij dizajna pri Arhitektonskom fakultetu SveuËiliπta u Zagrebu i nizozemski dizajn studio andrews:degen u travnju provode kreativnu radionicu o identitetu Zagreba. The most valuable facet of the city’s current identity is the continuous interaction between the city and its citizens, as well as those who come to Zagreb as visitors. Owing to the ease of travel and the inﬂuence of virtual social networks, every city, every place of living can nowadays analyze and build its own identity as an interaction between its permanent and temporary dwellers. In the month of April, the School of Design at the Faculty of Architecture of the University of Zagreb and the Dutch design studio andrews:degen will organize a creative workshop dealing with the identity of Zagreb. CROATIA AIRLINES

Studij dizajna/ School of Design

Franka Tretinjak: OM MOM NOM, dizajn zdravih sendviËa za djecu, Studij dizajna/ Design of Healthy Sandwiches for Children, School of Design

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gradova. Te radionice provode u suradnji s fakultetima za dizajn na globalnoj razini tako da jedan tjedan intenzivno rade sa studentima diplomskih studija. Studenti analiziraju vlastitu percepciju grada u kojemu æive i rade s percepcijom voditelja radionice, koji imaju drukËiji pogled sa strane, Ëime se omoguÊuje povezivanje perspektiva pa tako i novi kreativni uvid u identitet grada. Studio andrews:degen dosad je provodio takve radionice socijalnog dizajna na fakultetima i u gradovima u Kini, Rumunjskoj i u Turskoj. SljedeÊa je tema Zagreb, a istraæuju je sa studentima studija dizajna. Poslije knjige Project Zagreb, koja je objavljena 2007. godine, nakon istraæivanja provedenog na Graduate School of Design na Harvard University, ovo je novi internacionalni projekt koji Êe se baviti identitetom hrvatskoga glavnoga grada, a u njemu sudjeluje Studij dizajna s meunarodnim ekspertima. Na pitanje kakva su dosadaπnja iskustva s takvom metodologijom rada, Marc i Chris odgovaraju: - Tijekom jednotjedne radionice istraæujemo razliËita lica grada zajedno s lokalnim studentima-kreativcima. Naπ se pristup usredotoËuje na metodologiju rjeπavanja nekog problema u dizajnu. Kako dizajneri mogu poboljπati kvalitetu æivota u gradovima koji naglo rastu i razvijaju se? Kako se iz perspektive dizajna moæe pristupiti nekom urbanom problemu i pridonijeti njegovu rjeπenju? Studenti ili lokalni kreativci, na primjer s podruËja vizualnih komunikacija (graﬁËkog dizajna, ilustracije, fotograﬁje), razvijaju teme i koncepte koji se odnose na njihov grad, promiπljaju svoja osobna iskustva, stvaraju nove vizualne entitete ili predstavljaju stavove, rjeπenja, priËe i intervencije. Mladi lokalni kreativci senzibiliziraju se na svoje druπtveno i kulturno okruæje te ih se potiËe da preuzmu aktivnu i odgovornu ulogu u kompleksnom i difuznom urbanom druπtvu; takoer da spoznaju svoju buduÊu profesiju ne samo kao neπto πto isporuËuje proizvod po narudæbi, nego i kao poziv na istraæivanje i angaæman koji Êe potaknuti pozitivnu promjenu. Radionica je jedna od mnogih kakve se svake godine organiziraju na Studiju dizajna o razliËitim temama, od projekta enterijera turistiËkih soba, preko radionica inkluzivnog dizajna za osobe s posebnim potrebama, sve do internacionalne radionice o prostoru za uËenje, koja je lani organizirana s Unicefom. ©to Êe biti rezultat ove radionice, odgovaraju nizozemski dizajneri. - KonaËni proizvod ovoga intenzivnog tjedna bit Êe raznovrsni i inspirativni tiskani i on-

Nataπa NjegovanoviÊ: BEEBAG/ Studij dizajna/School of Design

line Ëasopisi koji Êe predstaviti radove svih kreativaca. Publikacije, kao i svi kreativci, bit Êe predstavljeni publici posljednje veËeri. »itatelji Êe steÊi nove i iznenaujuÊe uvide u æivot grada. To je ono πto Êe nadahnuti i pozvati na daljnje istraæivanje, otvoriti pitanja i motivirati za daljnji angaæman. Na poËetku radionice nikad ne znamo kakve Êe zamisli i rezultati studentima pasti na um. Na kraju intenzivnog tjedna iznenaenje ne Ëeka samo nas, nego studente kad vide πto je otkriveno, istraæeno i napravljeno u jednom kratkom tjednu. Svaki grad ima svoje teme koje ovise o posebnim kulturnim referencijama, no neke teme i problemi, kao na primjer promet i skrb o okoliπu, imaju bitnu ulogu u mnogim urbanim podruËjima.

Svatko tko povremeno dolazi u neËije stalno mjesto æivljenja formira neku vrstu oËekivanja, stava ili informacija. Graani Zagreba, pa tako i studentska populacija ima jednu razinu samopercepcije i shvaÊanja identiteta grada. ©to Andrews i Degen znaju o Zagrebu? - Obojica smo posjetili Hrvatsku i njezin prekrasan glavni grad Zagreb prije 15 godina, kao mladi turisti. Provezli smo se zemljom od sjevera do juga u dva automobila sa skupinom prijatelja. Nismo imali unaprijed odreen plan putovanja nego bismo spontano zastali na mjestima koja su nam se svidjela i koja su nas privukla. Svidio nam se mentalitet ljudi, krajolik, hrana i vrijeme. Tad smo bili u ranim dvadesetim godinama i iskustili neπto nalik na uzbudljiv i razliËit ﬁlm ceste. Otkrili smo fascinantnu prirodu i sreli

gostoljubive ljude. Na tom putovanju posjetili smo i okolne zemlje, Bosnu i Hercegovinu, Srbiju i Sloveniju. SuoËili smo se i s tragovima rata i poratnim scenarijem te njegovom multietniËkom pozadinom. To je podruËje mnogih moguÊnosti i prilika, ali takoer i podruËje koje se mora izboriti s nizom razliËitih teπkoÊa. Studenti Studija dizajna Ëesto za teme svojih magistarskih teza biraju upravo identitet lokalne zajednice. Postoji odreena razina iskustva koja Êe ovom radionicom biti nadopunjena izravnim uvidom sa strane. Kakva su oËekivanja studija andrews:degen od radionice? - Zagreb, kao najveÊi grad u Hrvatskoj, kao povijesni grad i srediπte kulturnoga i politiËkog æivota, moÊi Êe ispriËati mnoge priËe. CROATIA AIRLINES

Mlada, poratna generacija dolazi s novim i drugaËijim pogledom na æivot i druπtvo. Donose svoje perspektive, zamisli, probleme, rjeπenja i vizije. Zanima nas njihova percepcija te kako mogu pozitivno pridonijeti druπtvu u kojem æive. Radoznali smo da vidimo kakve Êe vizualne priËe o proπlosti, sadaπnjosti i buduÊnosti svoga grada ispripovijedati ti mladi kreativci. ©to ih zaokuplja i zanima i πto bi æeljeli promijeniti, a Ëemu pridonijeti? Mi osobno spoznajemo i upoznajemo grad, stjeËemo iskustvo o njegovoj kulturi kroz oËi studenata. Lokalni studenti vode nas svojim vlastitim priËama, interesima, povijeπÊu i kulturom. Mi smo im samo podrπka i oni koji omoguÊavaju taj proces, pomaæemo svakom studentu da vizualizira svoje zamisli i rjeπenja, te da zajedno sjedine sve zamisli u jednu cjelinu. Napokon, ta vrijedna radionica, kada u tiskanom formatu i u virtualnom okruæju budu javno publicirani njezini rezultati, svakako Êe pridonijeti novim i drukËijim razmiπljanjima o identitetu Zagreba, a i po sebi svakako Êe biti vaæan dogaaj u domeni kreativnih industrija grada. n

Vedran Erceg: Namjeπtaj Armarion, Studij dizajna/ Armarion Furniture/School of Design

D Studentska vjeæba: Dva lica Zagreba,Studij dizajna/ Grgo Petrov: drvena igraËka, Studij dizajna/ Wooden Toy, School of Design

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Students’ Exercise: Two Faces of Zagreb, School of Design

uring the century and a half of its modern history, the City of Zagreb has developed most of its urban identity through various social, political, economic and cultural practices. The School of Design at the Faculty of Architecture, as part of the University of Zagreb, has spawned about six hundred design graduates during the 25 years of its existence. These experts make up the core of the creative industries in Zagreb and Croatia. As an interdisciplinary graduate and postgraduate study, this academic programme is geared towards designing physical and symbolical environments, while one of the characteristics of the study of design are the graduate students’ theses which deal with the identity of local communes, including towns and cities. The design studio andrews:degen was founded in Amsterdam by graphic designers Marc Andrews and Chris Degen. Their primary intention was to create socially engaged visual communications and to foster social dialogue through their own work. Their portfolio features an impressive series of projects in various areas of communication. An important segment of their creative engagement consists of workshops focused on the identity of towns and cities. Their partners in those workshops are design faculties on the global level, while the workshops are week-long, hands-on projects involving work with graduate students. Students analyze their own perceptions of the town they live

and work in and compare them with the perceptions of the workshop leaders who have a totally different view from theirs − a side view. This enables them to connect the perspectives and gain a new creative insight into their town’s identity. So far, the andrews:degen studio has implemented social design workshops at faculties and in cities in China, Romania and Turkey. The next topic − Zagreb, will be explored together with design students from Croatia. After the book Project Zagreb was published in 2007 as a result of research carried out by the Graduate School of Design at Harvard University, this is a new international project which will deal with the identity of the Croatian capital, and it involves a local design school and international experts. When asked about their previous experiences with such a methodology of work, Marc and Chris answered: − In a one-week workshop we explore together with local creative students the diverse facets of a city. Our approach focuses on a design problem solving methodology. How can designers contribute to the quality of life in fast growing cities? How can a design perspective contribute to solve urban problems? Students or local creatives from e.g. visual communication (graphic design, illustration, photography) develop themes and concepts referring to their city, reflect on personal experiences, examine problems, create new visual entities or present statements, solutions, stories and interventions. The young local creatives are sensitized to their social and cultural environment and are encouraged to take an active and responsible role in a complex and diffuse urban society. Seeing their future profession not just as a deliverable but as an invitation to research, engage and to stimulate positive change. The workshop is one of the many organized every year at the School of Design. The range of workshop topics includes tourist room design projects, inclusive design for people with special needs, as well as the international workshop on spaces for studying which was organized last year in cooperation with UNICEF. What can one expect as a result of this workshop? The Dutch designers said: − The ﬁnal product of this intensive week is a multifaceted and inspiring off- and online magazine presenting all the creatives’ work. The publication is then launched on the last evening with presentations of all the participants to a wider audience. The reader gains new surprising and diverse insights into a city’s life. It inspires, invites to continue

Karla Glavaπ: MOBIL, viπenamjenska modularna stambena jedinica za privremeni smjeπtaj, Studij dizajna/ MOBIL, Multi-purpose Modular Housing Unit for Temporary Accommodation, School of Design

Studentska vjeæba: Sva lica Zagreba, Studij dizajna/ Students’ Exercise: All Faces of Zagreb, School of Design CROATIA AIRLINES

Alma ©avar: Plakat za Teatar EXIT, Studij dizajna/ Poster for Teatar EXIT, School of Design

Lura Bosazzi: Grisia: Vizualni identitet/Visual Identity,, Studij dizajna/School of Design

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researching, poses questions and motivates to get engaged. At the beginning of a workshop we never know what kind of ideas and results students will come up with. At the end of an intense week, not just are we surprised, but the students are also surprised about what has been discovered, researched and developed within this short week. In each city most of the topics vary due to its special cultural reference, but some topics and problems, for example traffc and environmental issues, play a role in a lot of urban areas. Every occasional visitor to somebody’s permanent place of residence brings their expectations, views or prior information concerning that place. The citizens of Zagreb, including the student population,

have a certain level of self-perception and understanding of their city’s identity. What do Andrews and Degen know about Zagreb? − Both of us visited Croatia and its beautiful capital Zagreb around 15 years ago as young tourists. We crossed the country by car from north to south, with 2 cars and a group of friends. We did not have a fixed route but just stopped spontaneously at places we liked and felt attracted to. We loved the mentality, its people, the landscape, the food and the weather. Back then we were in our early twenties, and we experienced an exciting and diverse kind of road movie, discovering its amazing nature and meeting hospitable people. On our tour we also visited the surrounding areas like Bosnia Herzegovina, Serbia and Slovenia. On our trip we were also confronted with the traces of the war and the post-war scenario with its multi-ethnical background. This is an area with a lot of possibilities and opportunities, but which also has to deal with a diverse range of problems. Very often, design students choose the identity of local communes as the topic of their master’s theses. There is a certain level of experience which this workshop stands to enhance through a direct side view. What are the andrews:degen design studio’s expectations from this workshop? − Zagreb as the biggest and most cultural, political and historical city of Croatia will have a lot of different stories to tell. A young post-war generation is coming up with a new and different view on life and society, with their own perspectives, ideas, problems, solutions and visions. We are interested in their perception and how they can positively contribute to its society. We are curious about what kind of visual stories these young creatives will tell from the city’s past, present and future. What keeps them busy? What are they interested in? What would they like to change or contribute? We personally explore and get to know the city and experience its culture through the eyes of the students. The local students guide us through their own stories, interests, history and culture. We just support and facilitate the process, helping to visualize the ideas and outcome of each student and bring the ideas together. And finally, when the results of this valuable workshop are publicized off and online, they will certainly provide new ideas and contributions to the reflections on Zagreb’s identity, and the workshop itself will be an important event in the development of the city’s creative industries. n

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Zagreb’s story Zagrebaÿka priÿa Zagreb, glavni grad Republike Hrvatske, jedan je od najstarijih europskih gradova, ali i jedna od najmlaĄih europskih metropola. Iako kulturom i zemljopisnim položajem srednjoeuropski, arhitekturom barokni, Zagreb u mnogoĀemu živi mediteranskim naĀinom života. I baš zbog tog spoja on je - priznaju to njegovi gosti - grad speciÀĀnoga šarma i gostoljubivih, srdaĀnih ljudi. Mnogi kažu, bez konkurencije! Putovanje Zagrebom ovime nije završilo. Možda þete ga najbolje upoznati u šetnji gradom, uz cappuccino u nekoj od mnogobrojnih gradskih kavana. Uz bogatu ponudu kazališnih predstava, galerija i izložbi, Zagreb je i u ovoj sezoni domaþin mnogim svjetski poznatim imenima. Dug popis dogaĄanja koja þe se u Zagrebu održavati sljedeþih mjeseci, dokazuju da grad živi doista dinamiĀno. Ali, najveþa vrijednost ovoga grada za mnoge je ipak njegova atmosfera i ljudi zbog kojih nikad niste sami. Zagreb ima priĀu i srce, veliko srce.

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Zagreb, the capital of the Republic of Croatia, is one of the oldest European cities and is yet one of Europe’s youngest metropolises. Despite being a Central European city in geography, culture and baroque architecture, in many ways, Zagreb has a Mediterranean way of life.Thanks to its many inÁuences, the city has a special charm and hospitable feel generated by its open-hearted people. Many say that nothing compares to this city! The journey through Zagreb is a never ending story. You may best learn about it by walking down the city streets and enjoying a cappuccino in one of its many city cafes. It is a well-known center of culture where you can Ànd one interesting exhibition after another; there is a host of theatrical and musical performances of all styles and expressions. Many world famous names will appear on Zagreb’s stages in the upcoming season and perform for the citizens of Zagreb and their guests. Nevertheless, the biggest value of this city is its atmosphere and the people who never allow you to feel alone. Zagreb has a story to tell and it has a heart, a big heart.

Have you been taken back to the past in a time machine or can you actually see the characters from stories told long time ago standing right next to you? Everything is here: a nostalgic song, a bunch of ¾owers and the times we brought back to the streets of Zagreb because of you… www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

This international street festival turns Zagreb into an all-out party place. Be sure to join in on the fun! www.cestisdbest.com

Croatia’s largest open-air music event, placed on the list of 50 best festivals in the world. Check it out! www.inmusicfestival.com

Fill your hearts with the spirit of Advent as the city streets, squares and parks are adorned with Christmassy delights. Treat yourself with Advent in Zagreb! www.adventzagreb.com

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Âťasopis Svijet,1967. Magazine Svijet, 1967

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■ IZLOŽBE EXHIBITIONS

Piše/By Dubravka PrpiÊ Znaor Fotograﬁja/Photo SreÊko Budek

ZagrebaËki Muzej za umjetnost i obrt ugostio je zanimljivu izloæbu koja je javnosti predstavila rad dizajnerice kozmetiËkih proizvoda Marije KalentiÊ, od 1963. do 1985. godine. No, dizajneri, poput Marije KalentiÊ nisu bili zvijezde, nego, naprotiv, anonimci s velikom ulogom − stvaranjem pakiranja osmiπljavali su svakodnevicu malog Ëovjeka. Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts is hosting an interesting exhibition which presents the works by the beauty products designer Marija KalentiÊ, spanning from 1963 to 1985. However, designers like Marija KalentiÊ were not stars, but just the opposite, anonymous people with a great role − by creating the packaging they designed the everyday life of the proverbial common man.

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− Kako je ambalaæa neπto πto bacamo, prava je sreÊa u arhivi imati primjerke iz proπlog stoljeÊa, a bingo je kad sluËajno otkrijete da u svom domu netko od dizajnera Ëuva svoje radove i spreman ih je darovati muzeju − kaže kustosica izloæbe Koraljka Vlajo. − Dizajnerica Marija KalentiÊ obratila mi se zbog sasvim drugog posla, sluËajno, no kad sam kroz usputni razgovor saznala da ima sve svoje radove, shvatila sam da je to prilika za neπto posebno. Tako je nastala izloæba, ali ne samo to, nego je muzej dobio hvalevrijedno naslijee jedne dizajnerice koja je sudjelovala u oblikovanju onog vremena, jer ambalaæa je svakako dio slike druπtva u kojem postoji. Naime, nakon revolucionarnih i siromaπnih poratnih pedesetih, u tadaπnjoj dræavi jaËa graansko druπtvo koje sa sobom donosi i promjenu odnosa prema osobnoj potroπnji, modi, te ulozi æene u druπtvu. Tadaπnje hrvatsko druπtvo razapeto je izmeu brojnih smjernica koje uvjetuju speciﬁËan − Ëesto i kontradiktoran − odnos prema ovim fenomenima. U druπtvu koje je djela dizajna uglavnom tretiralo s podcjenjivanjem, ambalaæa je bila jedan od najranjivijih povijesnih izvora. Ambalaæa je stvorena da, nakon πto se proiKutija i tuba kreme za ruke Octa, Neva, 1986./ Box with tube of protective hand cream Octa, Neva, 1986.

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mbalaæa kak vu danas poznajemo, koja je ujedno vaæan element potroπaËkog druπtva, intenzivno se razvijala tijekom druge polovice proπlog stoljeÊa, a stvarali su je upravo dizajneri poput Marije KalentiÊ - javnosti nepoznata kao ime, a kao djelo sveprisutna i joπ dan danas prepoznatljiva. Radila je u tvornici Neva, te gotovo dvadeset godina osmiπljavala izgled pakiranja proizvoda Rosal, Plidenta, Asepsoleta, Irel, Frilax, Tabac, Crna MaËka, Corona, Deofen, Simbio, kojih se mnogi Hrvati i danas sjeÊaju, a neki od tih brendova joπ postoje… Istodobno, Neva je ravnopravno suraivala s nekima od najpoznatijih globalnih igraËa na kozmetiËkom træiπtu: s Beiersdorfom, L’Orealom, Odolom, tu su Sara Lee, Juvena of Swizerland, Helena Rubinstein, Woltz, Rimmel, Mäurer & Wirtz, Farina Gegenueber i drugi. Naime, bilo je to vrijeme procvata graﬁËke i tiskarske industrije i mnoge su se tvornice u bivπoj Jugoslaviji bavile upravo tim granama proizvodnje.

PredloĎ&#x20AC;ci za tisak tkanina, samoinicirani rad 1958.-1960. Templates for printing fabric 1958 - 1960

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ambalaæa nosi marketinπke poruke, i ne samo to, ona stvara naπ lifestyle, makar toga nismo ni svjesni. Ujedno, potiËe nas na daljnju potroπnju, Ëime se zatvara taj Ëaroban krug ovog druπtva kojemu je katkad vaænije pakiranje od − sadræaja. O Mariji KalentiÊ: Marija KalentiÊ (r. 5. srpnja 1930.) diplomirala je na zagrebaËkoj Akademiji primijenjenih umjetnosti (1954.), u klasi profesorice Branke HegeduπiÊ, kao akademska slikarica tekstilka te je postdiplomski studij nastavila u majstorskoj radionici Krste HegeduπiÊa (suraivala je na opremi knjiga Razgovori ugodni naroda slovinskoga, A. K. MioπiÊa, te Latinske pjesni razlike, I. –ureviÊa). U poËetku karijere radi samostalno, te preteæno dizajnira uzorke za tisak tkanina za ZagrebaËku industriju svile, Vunteks, Tvorpam. Od 1962. godine stalno je zaposlena u Nevi na dizajnu ambalaæe svih proizvoda i propagandnih materijala. Ujedno projektira Nevine izloæbene prostore na ZagrebaËkom velesajmu. Dobitnica je tri jugoslavenska Oskara za ambalaæu (1965. i 1966. godine): za kuÊni stil ambalaæe kozmetiËke serije Kutije i tube Rosal, Neva 1964.-1965./ Boxes and tubes Rosal, Neva 1964-1965

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zvod proda, bude odbaËena. Upravo stoga, izloæba poput ove − koja zaokruæuje ne samo opus nepravedno zapostavljene dizajnerice, nego i povijest jedne tvornice (a kroz nju i Ëitave grane industrije) od neprocjenjive su vrijednosti za povijest domaÊeg dizajna, istiËe u prologu izloæbe kustosica Koraljka Vlajo. Isto tako, ambalaæa je na izgled banalna tema, no to je zapravo veoma kompleksno podruËje povezano s razvojem potroπaËkog druπtva u kojemu danas æivimo. Sve oko nas je izgled, kupujemo ono πto vriπti bojama, vjerujemo onome πto na kutiji proËitamo. Dodatnu paænju valja posvetiti ambalaæi kozmetike − podruËju koje je bogato simbolikom i kontroverzama. Naime, kroz stoljeÊa, kozmetiËki su preparati bili proglaπavani vjeπtiËjim djelom, promicateljem promiskuiteta (na primjer crveni ruæ i jaki make-up)… Ali, kad gledamo povijest dizajna, ambalaæa je tretirana kao neæeljeno dijete graﬁ Ëkog i produkt dizajna koje je posvojio marketing. Danas su te komponente neodvojive:

BoËica i staklenka Rosal Neva, 1964.- 1965./ Glass bottle and jar Rosal Neva, 1964 ∑ 1965 CROATIA AIRLINES

even today by many Croats, and some of these brands still exist… At the same time, Neva had a partnership with some of the most famous global players in the cosmetics market: Beiersdorf, L’Oreal, Odol, as well as Sara Lee, Juvena of Switzerland, Helena Rubinstein, Woltz, Rimmel, Maurer & Wirtz, Farina Gegenueber and many others. It was the era when the graphic design and printing industry ﬂourished, and many factories in the former Yugoslavia were in this line of business. − Since packaging is something we throw away after use, we are lucky to have specimens from the last century in our archives, and when you accidentally discover that one of the designers keeps her works at home and is willing to donate them to the museum, this is tantamount to a jackpot, says the exhibition’s curator Koraljka Vlajo. − The designer Marija KalentiÊ had contacted me regarding an entirely different matter, but in the course of the conversation I happened to ﬁnd out that she has all her pieces at home and I realized that this was an opportunity for something special. This is how the exhibition was created, but not only that − the museum obtained Kutija i tuba paste za zube Dentasept, OOUR Neva SOUR Pliva, 1983./ Box and toothpaste tube Dentasept, OOUR Neva SOUR Pliva, 1983

Rosal, 1965.; za boËicu za kremu Rosal, 1965.; za kartonsku kutiju s lonËiÊem za kremu Rosal, 1966. Redovito je sudjelovala na izloæbama ULUPUH-a, izlagala je na izloæbi Produkt dizajn 2 (1972.). Neva 1978. godine postaje sastavni dio Plive, a M. KalentiÊ nastavlja raditi kao dizajnerica u OOUR Neva do 1985. godine, kad odlazi u mirovinu. n

ackaging as we know it today, which is a signiﬁcant element of the consumer society, underwent intense development throughout the second half of the last century. It was created by designers like Marija KalentiÊ, whose name is unknown to the public, and yet her work is present everywhere and remains recognizable even today. She worked at the Neva factory, designing the look of the packaging for products such as Rosal, Plidenta, Asepsoleta, Irel, Frilax, Tabac, Crna MaËka, Corona, Deofen and Simbio, which are remembered

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Suknja plavo-crno, Vunteks, Odæak (BiH), 1960.-1961./ Skirt blue-black, Vunteks, Odæak (BiH), 1960-1961

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Marija KalentiÊ

the valuable heritage of a designer who participated in the shaping of an era, since packaging is, to an extent, a reflection of the society in which it exists. After the revolutionary and poverty-ridden post-war 1950s, civil society in the former Yugoslavia experienced a boost, which also brought a change in the attitude to personal spending, fashion and the role of women in society. At that time the Croatian society was torn between numerous infl uences which involved a specific − often even contradictory − attitude to these phenomena. In a society which had a tendency to underestimate design creations, packaging was one of the most vulnerable historical resources. Packaging was created only to be discarded after the product was sold. This is why an exhibition like this − which brings together not only the opus of an unjustly overlooked designer, but also the history of a factory (and through it, the entire line of industry) − 34

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BoËice za parfem i kolonjsku vodu Chypre, OOUR Neva SOUR Pliva, 1980./ Perfume and eau de cologne Chypre, OOUR Neva SOUR Pliva, 1980

Serija proizvoda Rosal, OOUR Neva, SOUR Pliva, 1982./ Rosal Products, OOUR Neva, SOUR Pliva, 1982

PlaĎ&#x20AC;t makete kutije za parferm Crna macka, Neva, oko 1966. Unfolded model for Crna macka (Black cat) perfume box, Neva, around 1966

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Novogodiπnja Ëestitka, Zis, ZagrebaËka industrija svile, 1964. New Year’s Card, Zis, ZagrebaËka industrija svime, 1964

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Novogodiπnja Ëestitka, Neva 1966/ New Year’s Card, Neva, 1966

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is of utmost value for the history of Croatian design, as the curator Koraljka Vlajo emphasizes in the prologue to the exhibition. Also, packaging is a seemingly trivial subject, but it is in fact a very complex domain, related to the development of the consumer society in which we live today. It is all about the image; we buy items in bright colours and we believe the words we read on the box. Additional attention should be given to the packaging of beauty products − an area rich in symbolism and controversies. Throughout the centuries, cosmetic concoctions were denounced as witchcraft, as promoting promiscuity (for example, red lipstick and strong make-up)… However, if we consider the history of design, packaging was treated as the unwanted child of graphic and product design that was adopted by marketing. Today, these components are inseparable: packaging carries marketing messages, and not only that, it creates our lifestyle, whether we are aware of this or not. It also incites us to consume more, thereby closing the vicious circle of this society in which packaging is sometimes more important than the contents.

Reklama za Vunteks, Ëasopis Globus, br.104, 1961/ Vunteks Advertisment, Globus Magazine, no 104, 1961

Tkanina, TVORPAM, 1958. Fabric, TVORPAM, 1958

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About Marija KalentiÊ: Marija KalentiÊ (born 5 July 1930) graduated from the Academy of Applied Arts in Zagreb (1954), Professor Branka HegedušiÊ’s class, as a textile artist, and continued her postgraduate studies at the Krsto HegedušiÊ’s master’s workshop (she collaborated on the design of the books Razgovori ugodni naroda Slovinskoga by A. K. MiošiÊ and Latinske pjesni razlike by I. ÐureviÊ). At the beginning of her career she worked independently, mostly designing patterns for fabric printing for the Zagreb Silk Industry, Vunteks and Tvorpam. In 1962 she was hired as a permanent employee in the factory Neva, designing the packaging of all the products and promotional material. She also designed Neva’s exhibition area at the Zagreb Fair. She is the winner of three Yugoslav Packaging Oscars (1965 and 1966); the Rosal cosmetic series home style in 1965, the Rosal cream bottle in 1965, and the cardboard box containing the Rosal cream jar in 1966. She was a regular participant at the Croatian Association of Artists of Applied Arts (ULUPUH) exhibitions, and presented her work at the Product Design 2 exhibition (1972). In 1978, Neva became a part of the pharmaceutical company Pliva, and M. KalentiÊ continued to work as a designer at OOUR Neva until 1985 when she retired. n

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■ NACIONALNI PARKOVI NATIONAL PARKS

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Piπe/By Ružica MikaËiÊ

Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

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Nedaleko od ©ibenika, tek nekoliko kilometara od mora, u Nacionalnom parku Krka, pred posjetiteljima se otvara poput slikovnice zeleni biser prirodnih ljepota koje je svojim razigranim tijekom oblikovala nestaπna voda rijeke. Slapovi na toj kraπkoj ljepotici njezin su zaπtitni znak, njezin prirodni ukras i osobitost veliËanstvene ljepote zbog koje uz njezin tok nikada nije tiho. CROATIA AIRLINES

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At a stone’s throw from ©ibenik, only a few kilometres from the sea, the Krka National Park is a green pearl which opens itself to visitors like a picture book; its natural beauties have been created by the playful waters of the river. The karst beauty’s cascades are its trademark, its natural ornament and the most remarkable feature; the reason why it is never quiet along its course. CROATIA AIRLINES

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amo gdje je more zagrlilo veliËanstveno zelenilo rijeke stapajuÊi se u jedinstvenu vodenu Ëipku u netaknutoj prirodi, gdje se boje πume i rijeke stapaju s kamenom ljepotom stoljetnoga dalmatinskoga grada Skradina, jedan je od ulaza u zeleno srce rijeke Krke, kraπke ljepotice koja nadomak moru skriva svoje veliËanstvene vizure u sjeni πumovitih staza, πetnica i vidikovaca. VeÊ od izvora rijeke Krke, koji se nalazi ispod 20 metara visokoga Topoljskog slapa na rubu kninskog polja, teËe dalje Ëas pitoma, pa zatim prkosna i buËna Krka, probijajuÊi se slikovitim kanjonom od Knina sve do mora, kojemu se smireno predaje kod Skradina. Na kraju njezina 75 kilometara dugog puta bezvodnim dalmatinskim poljima i krπem, rijeka Krka svu svoju pomno skrivanu ljepotu u vrletima kanjona podastire u mirnom tijeku svojim Ëudesnim slapovima, jezerima i rukavcima, a πetnje pitomim obalama u hladovini vrba i jablana najËeπÊe poËinje od Skradina. Kamena ljepota toga dalmatinskoga gradiÊa, Ëije vizure izmeu mora i rijeke kao da su se tu uπuljale ravno sa slikarskog platna, najbolji je uvod u zelenu bajku koja se otvara pred oËima posjetitelja u Skradinskom buku, najveÊem i najpoznatijem slapiπtu, jednom od najljepπih sedrenih slapova u Europi. Bez obzira na to jeste li do Skradinskog buka stigli cestovnim putem preko glavnog ulaza u Nacionalni park u Lozovcu, biciklistiËkom stazom uz rijeku ili iz Skradina kreÊete manjim brodom koji Êe vas nakon kratke ugodne voænje rijekom dovesti u srce nacionalnog parka, prizori koji Êe vam se otvoriti pred oËima ostat Êe trajno dio vaπih uspomena. Kada nakon kratke πetnje πumovitim poljanama na ulazu u Nacionalni park krenete prema huku vode koja tu i za najveÊih vruÊina stvara svjeæinu, vidjet Êete nepresuπnu igru

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vodenih kapljica i pjenu koju Skradinskom buku donose rijeke Krka i »ikola. One se baπ na tome mjestu posljednji put zajedno prelijevaju preko 17 njeænih sedrenih barijera ukupno dugaËkih 800 metara. A u podnoæju te buËne igre vode i stepenastih barijera, ondje gdje pjena vode ponire do sljedeÊe prepreke, umiruje se voda u rijeËnom jezeru, najomiljenijemu mjestu zadræavanja brojnih turista i posjetitelja koji tu za ljetnih vruÊina traæe osvjeæenje kupajuÊi se. Iznad raskoπnih slapova koji ni za najveÊih suπa ne oskudijevaju vodom, slikoviti su drveni mostovi, πetnice, vidikovci i edukativne staze kojima se ugodno stiæe u svaki zeleni kutak te oaze svjeæine. Slapovi se mogu tim minijaturnim drvenim stazicama obiÊi sa svih strana, uæivajuÊi u opuπtajuÊim prizorima igre vode i πume, svjetla i sjene koje se ljeskaju u bistrini rijeke. »ak 860 razliËitih biljnih vrsta te 221 vrsta ptica naπlo je svoje staniπte na podruËju tijeka Krke, pa je πetnja vijugavim stazama iznad rijeke, koje se probijaju meu deblima i kroπnjama stabala, prilika i za upoznavanje bogatstva ﬂore i faune koja baπ tu ne πtedi na svojoj raskoπnoj raznolikosti. No, jednako je zanimljivo πetnjom upoznati i razgledati etno-selo s bogatom zbirkom starih zanata i rukotvorina, koje kao nekad æivi u obnovljenim kamenim kuÊicama uza πetnice. Tu se moæe saznati kako se u proπlim stoljeÊima na vodenicama rijeke mljelo æito, tkalo prostirke, pripremalo hranu… Vodenice koje su tu, pak, iz 19. stoljeÊa, spomenik su ruralnoga graditeljstva i dokaz gospodarske aktivnosti podruËja sudbinski vezanog uz rijeku. No, Krka je svojom snagom vode ostavila trag i u svjetskim energetskim iskoracima, jer 28. kolovoza 1895. upravo odatle, iz centrale na slapovima Krke, zasvijetlila je prva elektriËna æarulja Ëija snaga je potekla iz grimizne kraπke ljepotice i osvijetlila ©ibenik. Grad

je bio osvijetljen javnom rasvjetom, stilskim balonima s mreæicom u obliku kaplje, od kojih i danas jedan svijetli. Bilo je to samo dva dana nakon prve hidroelektrane u svijetu na rijeci Niagari, koja je tek iduÊe, 1896. godine, uspjela dovesti struju do ameriËkoga grada Buffala. Tada je ©ibenik, zahvaljujuÊi rijeci Krki, veÊ svijetlio, a danas se ostaci te prve hidroelektrane mogu vidjeti na Skradinskom buku, te sluπati i Ëitati o njoj na spomenobiljeæjima unutar nacionalnog parka. No, iako bi se u ljepoti Skradinskog buka moglo uæivati satima, tek neπto dalje uskom πetnicom uz rijeku, nedirnuta je priroda Roπkog slapa, koju prepoznaju istinski zaljubljenici takvog okoliπa. Taj drugi najpoznatiji, ali i najatraktivniji slap na Krki poËinje veliËanstvenim kanjonom. Nakon πto se rijeka u tom potpuno oËuvanom prirodnom prostoru u duæini slapiπta od 650 metara lijeno prelijeva preko niskih kaskada koje lokalni stanovnici zovu ogrlice i nudi umirujuÊu idilu rukavaca i rijeËnih otoËiÊa, pred oËima se otvara ljepota glavnog slapa koji se s visine od 15 metara huËeÊi obruπava u VisovaËko jezero. Voænja Ëamcem podno slapova osobit je doæivljaj u kojemu se bogatstvo kapljica vode u duginim bojama presijava padajuÊi niz slap. U toj igri svjetla, vode i bistrine, naete li se na nekome od okolnih vidikovaca, dah zastaje od ljepote koja se pruža pred vama uobliËena u Visovac, otok mira i molitve, koji se poput rijetkog dragulja smjestio u srediπtu modrog rijeËnog jezera okruæenog pitomim zelenim obroncima. Do Visovca se stiæe brodom iz mjesta Stinica i RemetiÊ. Visoki jablani tek su prirodni zastor otoËiÊa koji Ëuva povijesno kameno zdanje franjevaËkog samostana Majke od Milosti, podignutoga 1445. godine, i crkve Gospe VisovaËke. Gospinu sliku donijeli su tamo franjevci kada su pred Turcima bjeæali iz

Bosne, a hodoËaπÊa Majci VisovaËkoj razlog su cjelogodiπnjih posjeta vjernika tome minijaturnom otoËiÊu na rijeËnom jezeru. I baπ kao πto nevjerojatno prirodno okruæje jedinstvenog otoËiÊa krijepi duπu ljepotom, tako i njegova kulturno - povijesna baπtina saËuvana u samostanskome muzeju, s originalnim dokumentima, rijetkim inkunabulama, te brojnim predmetima povijesne, umjetniËke i etnografske vrijednosti, predoËuje bogatstvo i vjernu sliku povijesnih mijena na πirem prostoru. Briæno njegovanim zelenilom, cvijeÊem i travnjacima, Visovac oËarava mirom i postaje mjesto za okrjepu duha i tijela tisuÊama posjetitelja koji se na njemu u razgledavanju mogu zadræati oko pola sata. I baπ kada bi duπe pune ljepote Ëovjek pomislio kako je to sve, rijeËni kanjon Krke tu ne zavrπava svoju bogatu slikovnicu slapova. SkrivajuÊi se u πumovitim usjecima koji samo na trenutke otvaraju pogledu zelenu bistrinu kraπke ljepotice, meu paπnjacima i poljima dolazi se do najviπega ManojlovaËkog slapa na rijeci Krki. Na njemu se preko sedrenih barijera, meu kojima je razlika gotovo 60 metara, strmo i uza zagluπujuÊi huk vode u visini od 32 metra, Krka sunovraÊuje u svoje korito probijajuÊi se na putu do mirnog utoka u more. ManojlovaËki slap u cijelosti se nalazi u nedirnutoj prirodi, na njemu nema πetnica i staza, a u njegovu podnoæju ostaci su starih mlinica Ëiji kotaËi odavno ne melju æito. Joπ Ëetiri velika i atraktivna slapa upotpunjuju sliku bogatstva Krke na njezinu putu do mora, pa je tako BiluπiÊa buk jedini slap na kojemu nema energetskog iskoriπtavanja vode rijeke, a s vidikovca na sjevernoj strani toka rijeke pruæa se najbolji pogled na bogatstvo vodene mase koja se buËno prelijeva preko barijera, stvarajuÊi malo jezero u podnoæju. Brljan, Roπnjak i Miljacka slapovi su koje u svojem toku tvori dalje razigrana Krka, stvarajuÊi

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pokraj svakoga od njih mala jezerca i brzice, a skuËeni izmeu litica kanjona, ti su slapovi vidljivi tek s obliænjih vidikovaca. U okruæju ljepote vode i prirode Ëija igra na Krki ne prestaje, niz je kulturno-povijesnih i sakralnih spomenika, meu kojima se slikovitoπÊu izdvaja manastir svetog Arhanela u Carigradskoj dragi, na samoj sredini rijeke Krke, koji se u pisanim dokumentima spominje prvi put 1402. godine. Danas je manastir s muzejskim prostorom i knjiænicom, okruæen pitomim brdima, uz rijeku Krku, jedno od najvaænijih duhovnih srediπta pravoslavne Dalmatinske eparhije. Vrijedno je obiÊi na tom podruËju i ostatke rimskog logora Burnum iz 1. stoljeÊa, u koji se moglo smjestiti i po πest tisuÊa vojnika, kao i dvadesetak arheoloπkih lokaliteta i utvrda koje Ëuvaju svoje legende i junake… A Krka mirno teËe obavijena povijeπÊu i hladovinom, u razigranim slapovima i zelenomodroj haljini kanjona, sve do mirne predaje svoje ljepote moru. ■

here is a place where the sea holds the magnificent lushness of a river in a gentle embrace and where their waters merge into a unique symphony of lace in a virginal landscape; there is a place where the colours of the forest and the colours of the river bring out the beauty of the stone which was used to construct the Dalmatian town of Skradin centuries ago. This is where you can enter the green heart of the Krka River, a karst beauty whose magnificent vistas are hidden by the shade of leafy paths, promenades and gazebos, all so close to the sea. From its source under the 20 metre high Topoljski Waterfall on the border of Knin Field, the Krka continues to flow through the picturesque Knin Canyon all the way to the sea. Tame and slow at places, brazen and

loud at others, the river reaches the sea near Skradin and placidly surrenders to it. At the end of its 75 kilometre long journey through arid Dalmatian ﬁelds and karst, the Krka reveals all of its splendour which was carefully hidden among the canyon cliffs. Its amazing waterfalls, lakes and armlets burst before one’s eyes in the lowermost part of its course. A stroll along the gentle banks in the shade of willow and poplar trees usually starts in Skradin. This picturesque Dalmatian town, entirely made of the local stone, whose vistas between the sea and the river could easily be scenes on a painter’s canvass, is the best introduction to the green fairytale which opens in front of visitors’ eyes in Skradinski Buk, the biggest and best known cluster of water cascades and one of the most beautiful travertine waterfalls in Europe. Regardless of how you reached Skradinski Buk, by road through the National Park’s main entrance in Lozovac, along the riverside bicycle path or by a small boat which sails from Skradin and takes you straight to the heart of the national park after a short and pleasant sail, the scenes which unfold in front of your eyes will linger in your memory forever. After a short stroll through leafy leas at the entrance to the national park, all the paths will lead to the place from where you can hear the thunder of water which brings freshness even during the most scorching heat. This is where your eye will be glued to the never ending play of water drops and foam which the Krka and »ikola rivers bring to Skradinski Buk. This is the last place where their streams merge and together they gush over 17 gentle travertine barriers whose total length is 800 metres. At the foot of this noisy playing ground where water playfully cascades over steps like barriers, at the place where foaming water rushes to the next barrier, water ﬁnds respite

in a river lake, a place where tourists like to linger and seek refreshment from the scorching summer heat by soaking in the water. The exuberant waterfalls do not suffer from a shortage of water even during the longest spells of draught. Above them are picturesque wooden bridges, foot paths, gazebos and educational trails which effortlessly take you into every corner of this oasis of freshness. By following the miniature wooden paths, you can inspect the waterfalls from all sides, while enjoying the relaxing scenes of the playful interaction of water and forest, while light and shadows are mirrored in the translucent river. As many as 860 different plants and 221 aviary species have found their habitat around the Krka River, so a stroll along the meandering footpaths which negotiate their way through tree trunks and tree tops above the river presents an opportunity to get to know the wealth of the ﬂora and fauna which are anything but parsimonious in terms of displaying their lavish diversity. Equally interesting is the ethno village with an impressive collection of old crafts and handicrafts which are still produced in the renovated stone houses along the pathways like they used to be in the past. You can see how grain was ground, cloth weaved and food prepared in the river watermills. The 19th century watermills are monuments of rural architecture which bear witness to the regional economic activity that has always relied on the river. Moreover, the power of the Krka’s water made a huge mark on global energy developments; on 28 August 1895, the light of the ﬁrst electric bulb was powered by the power plant on the Krka waterfalls. Its energy came from the emerald karst beauty and brought light to the city of ©ibenik. The town’s public lighting system consisted of stylized balloons with a drop-shaped net, of which one is still in use today. It was introduced

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only two days after the first hydro electrical plant in the world became operational on the Niagara River, but that one managed to bring electricity to the American city Buffalo only a year later, in 1896. At that time, ©ibenik was already electrified owing to the Krka River. The remains of the first hydroelectric plant can be seen on Skradinski Buk and you can hear and read about it on the memorial plaques in the national park. The beauty of Skradinski Buk could easily be savoured for hours. However, more virginal landscapes await further up the path at Roπki Waterfall, which is highly appreciated by aficionados of this type of environment. The second best known waterfall, but also the most attractive of Krka’s waterfalls, begins with a wonderful canyon. In this completely preserved natural environment the river flows lazily over the 650 metre long low cascades which the locals know by their pet name Ogrlice or Necklace and it offers a soothing and idyllic image depicting rivulets and river islands. The beauty of the main cascade reveals itself before one’s eyes as the water precipitates with thunder from the 15 metre high ridge into Visovac Lake. A boat ride under the waterfalls is a special experience. The symphony of water drops shimmers in all the colours of the rainbow as they rush into the lake. After this dance of light, water and brightness, if you find yourself at one of the surrounding vantage points, your breath will be taken away by the beauty that opens right before your eyes in the form of Visovac, an island of tranquillity and prayer. Like a rare precious stone, it is nestled in the middle of the navy blue river lake surrounded by gentle green slopes. You can reach Visovac by boat from Stinica and RemetiÊ. Tall poplars are a natural curtain around the island which protects the historical building of the Franciscan monastery of Our Mother

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of Mercy and the Church of the Lady of Visovac. The former was built out of stone in 1445 when the Franciscan monks fleeing Bosnia before the Turks brought a painting of our Lady to the church. Pilgrimages to the Mother of Visovac bring people in droves to the miniature island on the river lake throughout the year. And just as the amazingly unspoiled environment of the unique island inspires one’s soul with beauty, its cultural and historical heritage safeguarded in the monastery’s museum and containing original documents, rare incunables, and a number of other artefacts with historical, artistic and ethnographic value, represents a material wealth and faithfully refl ects the changes which have taken place in the general area throughout history. The carefully manicured lawns and flower beds combined with the captivating serenity make it a place where thousands of visitors find nourishment for the body and soul. Each visitor can spend up to half an hour on the island. With a soul overflowing with so much beauty, one would be easily misguided to believe that there is nothing else to experience. How wrong they would be. There is another page to open in the picture book that is the Krka River Canyon and waterfalls. Climbing through meadows and fields, one arrives at the highest of the waterfalls on the Krka, ManojlovaËki, hidden between the cuttings in the dense forest which allow only glimpses of the green translucence of the karst beauty. The 32 metre high waterfall rushes with a roar into the Krka river bed over seven travertine barriers, nearly 60 metres apart, and continues its journey towards the sea. ManojlovaËki Waterfall is nestled in a virgin forest; there are no pathways or walkways leading to it; the structural remains at its foot belong to old mills whose wheels stopped turning a long time ago.

Four more large and attractive waterfalls complement the picture of the precious jewels that the Krka River creates on its journey to the sea. BiluπiÊa Buk is the only cascade where water is not exploited to generate energy. The vantage point on the northern side of the stream commands the best view of the water mass which rushes noisily over the barriers creating a small lake at the foot of it. Brljan, Roπnjak and Miljacka are the other waterfalls created by the playful Krka River along its course. Next to every one of them, there is either a small lake or a mischievous torrent. Squeezed between the rocky canyon walls, these waterfalls can be seen only from nearby lookouts. Surrounded by the beauty of water and nature, forever playing with each other, there are numerous cultural, historical and sacral monuments. The Saint Archangel Monastery in Carigradska Draga, at the Krka’s middle course, certainly takes the pride of place among them. The ﬁrst written reference to the monastery dates back to 1402. Today, it serves as a monastery with a museum area and library. It is surrounded by gentle slopes along the river, and is considered one of the most important centres of spirituality for the Orthodox Dalmatian Eparchy. Another location which certainly merits a visit is the remains of the Roman camp Burnum which was erected here in the 1st century when it could accommodate up to six thousand soldiers at any one time. There are also 20 or so archaeological localities and fortresses which all have their own legends and heroes… All the while Krka gently ﬂows, steeped in history and topped by thick treetops, through the emerald green and navy blue dress of the canyon, it cascades and rushes over the travertine barriers until the moment it calmly surrenders its beauty to the sea. ■

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■ KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA

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INLAND ■ CROATIA

Piše/By Anika Rešetar Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

Vikend u Poæegi moæe vas i smiriti i razgaliti, a isplati se posjetiti i obliænje KutjevaËke vinograde u kojima se, kaæu, moæe uæivati u najﬁnijoj graπevini ili provesti cijeli dan u nedalekome i fascinantnom Parku prirode Papuk. Povijest je Poæege povijest ljudi koji nastoje zajedniπtvom ostvariti blagostanje. A weekend in Poæega can calm and enthuse you, and while there, it would be a good idea to visit the nearby vineyards in Kutjevo, where you can enjoy the ﬁnest Graπevina (Welschriesling), or spend a whole day in the fascinating Papuk Nature Park nearby. The history of Poæega is the history of the people who have tried to achieve prosperity through collectiveness. CROATIA AIRLINES

Replika zavjetnog kipa Presvetog Trojstva − Kuæni pil/ Replica of the votive statue of Holy Trinity − the Plague Column

Crkva svetog Lovre/ Church of St. Lovro

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vatko od nas, vjerujem, u sebi nosi sjeÊanje na sljedeÊi prizor iz djetinjstva: mali smo i teπko nam se uspeti na stolac, kuhinjski je stol golem i nekako nesvladiv, a mi uporno æelimo da baπ na njemu bojimo crtanku iako baka mijesi tijesto za neki grenadirmarπ, pitu ili tijesto za juhu. U kuhinji je toplo, a vani je zima zbog koje su svi obrisi mekπi i udaljeniji. Zrak se poËinje puniti mirisima jela πto ih baka sprema, a nama je nekako toplo pri duπi kao da smo omotani mekim vunenim plaπtom koji odbija i brige i tugu. Hrana i njezina priprema, izbor jela i naËin posluživanja, molitva prije obroka i ﬁni servis za goste ovako navedeni kao da pripadaju nekom drugom svijetu. Gotovo muzeju. Ako ste to pomislili, imate pravo jer taj svijet opisan je i

predstavljen u jedinstvenome Muzeju u loncu, koji nastaje i Ëuva se na stranicama Poæeπkoga gradskog muzeja! www.muzejuloncu.com adresa je toga neobiËnog postava, moæete ga posjetiti kad vam srce poæeli, a ulaznice se ne naplaÊuju! A kad adresu otvorite, stupate u pravu pravcatu πpajzu. Na gornjoj su polici recepti, a na donjoj priËe. Recepti smiruju i hrane veÊ svojim nazivima: paπteta od Ëvaraka, musaka od πparoga, pogaËice s kajmakom i vinom, vajnsupa, poæeπki pijanci, salaπki πterc, poæeπki vinogradarski Êevap, πtrudl s bundevom turkinjom, marmelada od mrkve, punË torta familije KraljeviÊ, salaπki kolaË s viπnjama. A u prikupljenim priËama koje istraæuje i zapisuje etnologinja Maja ÆebËeviÊ MatiÊ kazuje se bogata povijest grada. Tako u priËi o kitnkezu trgovca Kindla saznajemo da je Vikotor Kindl 1909.otvorio svoju trgovinu delikatesa u srediπtu grada. Zapanjuje pak podatak da su u Poæegi 1934. godine postojale 73 trgovine svih vrsta u kojima se nudilo sve, od kolonijalno-πpecerajske robe preko one u æeljezari, staklani, do konfekcijske i mjeπovite robe. Konkurencija je bila velika pa su se trgovci, znajuÊi navade Poæeæana, natjecali tko Êe imati viπe ﬁnih sireva, mirisnog maslaca, raznolikog domaÊeg vina, stranih mineralnih voda, svjeæeg voÊa s juænih mora i riba sa sjevernih. Ne Ëudi stoga da se gradonaËelnik Franjo pl.Ciraki odlaskom u mirovinu 1903.godine posvetio pomnom biljeæenju kulinarskih delicija i svakodnevnih obroka koji su se spremali i posluživali u njegovu domu, ali jednako je tako opisivao i strastveno komentirao i jela pojedena u gostima. Cirakijeve biljeπke daju uvid u strukturu, obilježja i znaËenje pojedinih obroka kroz godinu i vjeran su prikaz i ritma dobrostojeÊega graanskog æivota bogatijih poæeπkih obitelji s poËetka 20.stoljeÊa. Jedna od najznaËajnijih obitelji grada bila je obitelj KraljeviÊ, koja je u muzeju u loncu zastupljena svojom slavnom uskrsnom punË tortom. Njihovo je plemstvo potvrdio joπ kralj Leopold, a u Slavoniju su doπli potkraj 17. stoljeÊa. Miroslav KraljeviÊ, djed slikara KraljeviÊa, bio je pisac hrvatskog romana Poæeπki ak ili Ljubimo milu svoju narodnost i grlimo slatki svoj narodni jezik, u kojem opisuje ondaπnju Poæegu, osnivaË je prve poæeπke tiskare i lista Slavonac, a bio je i veliki æupan poæeπke i virovitiËke æupanije. Velika i vrlo povezana obitelj i krajolik koji ga je trajno obiljeæio, dovodili su slikara Miroslava KraljeviÊa uvijek iznova u grad u kojem je imao i atelijer u zgradi koja i danas postoji, a nalazi se preko puta crkve sv. Lovre. U listopadu i studenom u Poæegi je bila retrospektiva slikarevih djela, koja se od 19.prosinca do 6.travnja 2014.moæe razgledati u Modernoj galeriji u

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Zagrebu, a nakon toga u Splitu, Dubrovniku i Osijeku. Zadnju veliku izloæbu slikara za kojeg struka tvrdi da je najveÊi hrvatski slikar ranog 20.stoljeÊa postavio je 1961. plodan kritiËar i putopisac, takoer Poæeæanin Matko PeiÊ. Fascinira broj istaknutih Poæeæana za koje mnogi misle da im je uz talent najviπe u razvoju pomogla poznata Poæeπka gimnazija. Popis znamentih Poæeæana zaista je dojmljiv (www.pozega-tz.hr). Kao podsjetnik navodimo najpoznatije: Dobriπa CesariÊ, pjesnik vedrine i snage za lijepo Ëak i kad je teπko, Dragutin Lerman,sudionik Stanleyevih ekspedicija u porjeËje Konga (19.st.). Njegov dnevnik uredio je i tiskao u dvije knjige njegov prijatelj Julije Kempf. Prva je objavljena 1891. pod 64

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nazivom Listovi iz Afrike, a druga je knjiga objavljena 1894. pod nazivom Novi listovi iz Afrike. Lerman je inspirirao dvojicu drugih hrvatskih istraæivaËa, Mirka i Stjepana Seljana koji su kartograﬁrali Afriku i Juænu Ameriku 20. stoljeÊa. Spomenuti Julije Kempf bio je poznati uËitelj, pisac, gradonaËelnik, a 1924. godine osnovao je i Gradski muzej Poæega. U Poæegi su znameniti i Ëestiti sugraani uzor koji se spominje i æivi, a mnoge poæeπke ulice nose naziv poznatih preminulih sugraana. O povijesti obrazovanja u Poæegi informirao nas je biskup poæeπki dr. Antun ©kvorËeviÊ. ∑ Nakon 150-godiπnje osmanlijske vladavine tijekom 16. i 17. st. crkva je u nastojanju oko duhovne obnove Slavonije imala u programu

odgoj i obrazovanje. Godine 1698. u Poæegi su poËeli djelovati isusovci te su veÊ 1699. osnovali Gimnaziju. Postupno su uspostavljali sustav osnovnih πkola u Poæeπkoj dolini, na razliËite druge naËine bavili se opismenjavanjem, meu ostalim povezano i s puËkim misijama, o Ëemu svjedoËe takozvane Abecevice u obliku letaka ili malih knjiæica. ZagrebaËki biskup Franjo Thauzy otvorio je 1754. u Poæegi Sjemeniπte za odgoj buduÊih sveÊenika, a zatim je dobio iz BeËa dopuπtenje da 1761. poËne djelovati AcademiaPosegana, visokoπkolska javna ustanova. UkinuÊem isusovaca (1773.) a ubrzo nakon toga i pavlina (1786.), prestale su djelovati poæeπke crkvene odgojno-obrazovne ustanove, ostala je samo Gimnazija koju su neko vrijeme vodili franjevci a zatim je preπla pod dræavnu upravu. No, zagrebaËki biskup Aleksandar AlagoviÊ kupio je od dræave zgradu nekadaπnjeg isusovaËkog kolegija, danaπnje sjediπte Poæeπke biskupije, te je u njoj 1835. otvorio Orfanotroﬁj za siromaπne a nadarene uËenike, koji su tijekom 110 godina njegova postojanja, do 1946. kad su je ukinule komunistiËke vlasti, dali velik doprinos odgoju i obrazovanju, visokoj kvaliteti poæeπke gimnazije. U drugoj polovici 19. stoljeÊa doπle su u Poæegu sestre milosrdnice sv. Vinka Paulskoga, poËele s odgojem æenske mladeæi, otvorile za njih πkolu koja je uspjeπno djelovala do zatvaranja nakon Drugoga svjetskog rata. Poæega je 1997.godine postala sjediπte Poæeπke biskupije. Zanimalo nas je da li je to rezultiralo pokretanjem novih inicijativa na podruËju odgoja i obrazovanja. Biskup je stoga nastavio: ∑ Biskupija je ∑ slijedeÊi poæeπka povijesna iskustva ∑ poËela 2002. s pruæanjem snaænije materijalne potpore odreenom broju siromaπnijih uËenika i studenata, 2005. je utemeljila Zakladu za siromaπne uËenike i studente te otada redovito svake godine dodjeljuje sedamdesetak stipendija, 2006. otvorila Kolegij ∑ aËki dom za siromaπnije srednjoπkolce ∑ s besplatnim stanovanjem, 2007. osnovala KatoliËku klasiËnu gimnaziju u Poæegi i Virovitici, a 2009. KatoliËku osnovnu πkolu s produæenim dnevnim boravkom u Poæegi. Pritom Biskupiji nije bila namjera poduprijeti samo druπtvo znanja, nego pruæiti svoj doprinos u nastojanju oko cjelovite izgradnje mladih ljudi, kako bi po odgoju πto su ga primili mogli pravilno primijeniti ono πto su tijekom obrazovanja nauËili, da odgojem u vjeri dosegnu πto cjelovitija iskustva o samima sebi i stvarnosti, postanu mudri ljudi u djelovanju za opÊe dobro hrvatskog druπtva. Povijest je Poæege povijest ljudi koji nastoje zajedniπtvom ostvariti blagostanje. Mjesto Poæega postaje vrlo rano sjediπte velikog vla-

stelinstva, a srednjovjekovni je grad srediπte trgovaËkih, obrtniËkih, upravnih, vojnih i crkvenih funkcija za πiru okolicu. Poæeπka se æupanija spominje prvi put 1210., a crkvena æupa 1232.godine. Glavni gradski trg jest Trg Svetog Trojstva, djeluje monumentalno okruæen boltama i baroknim kuÊama s jedne, a s druge strane crkvom Svetog Duha i zgradom biskupije. Trg nosi naziv po zavjetnom kipu Svetog Trojstva, koji se nalazi na Kuænom pilu, spomeniku umrlima od kuge koja je harala od 15.svibnja do 28. studenog 1739. godine i odnijela æivote 789 Poæeæana. U to je vrijeme grad imao dvije tisuÊe stanovnika. Stup je izradio Venecijanac Gabrijel Granicije, a njegovi su sugraani sudjelovali i u gradnji okolnih baroknih kuÊa sa svodovima, boltama, sliËnima onima u Vukovaru. Najljepπe je moæda doæivjeti sjeseni dokono slavonsko nedjeljno prijepodne u Poæegi kad je veÊ grože obrano i mnogi stanovnici sjede u brojnim kaﬁÊima na trgu pod boltama ili u Cehovskoj ulici, a drugi pak odlaze na misu pa je u gradiÊu æivo kao da je radni dan, a da nije, vidi se i po odabranoj nedjeljnoj, sveËanijoj odjeÊi. Mnogi Poæeæani rado odlaze baπ u crkvu Sv. Duha, Ëiji poËeci datiraju iz 13. stoljeÊa. U crkvi su sahranjivani znameniti Poæeæani, a osobito se πtuje fra Luka IbriπimoviÊ, glasoviti Sokol koji je oslobodio Poæegu od Turaka. Osobito je lijepa poæeπka katedrala u stilu beËkog baroka, posveÊena sv. Tereziji Avilskoj. Iako je barokna, nije prezaguπena pa se Ëovjek u njoj osjeÊa kao da moæe prodisati punim pluÊima i rastegnuti se put visina gdje ga doËekuju slike Otona IvekoviÊa i Celestina MedoviÊa. Tijekom 1898. i 1899. godine ti su hrvatski umjetnici oslikali crkvu, a dekorativno ju je uresio pod njihovim nadzorom slikar Pavao Fabec. Nad glavnim oltarom MedoviÊ i IvekoviÊ zajedniËki su oslikali Presveto Trojstvo. Na svodu svetiπta Celestin MedoviÊ oslikao je sv. Tereziju na nebo uznesenu, a na svodu glavne lae evaneliste Mateja i Marka. Oton IvekoviÊ pak naslikao je Luku i Ivana. Na svodu lijeve lae Oton IvekoviÊ je naslikao Navjeπtenje Marijino, a na svodu desne lae, Celestin MedoviÊ oslikao je Isusa na Maslinskoj gori. Na lijevom stupu glavne lae Oton IvekoviÊ naslikao je veliki lik sv. Metoda, a na desnom stupu Celestin MedoviÊ sv. Δirila. Na svodu iznad pjevaliπta Oton IvekoviÊ naslikao je sv. Ceciliju, zaπtitnicu crkvene glazbe. Tradicija angaæiranja darovitih umjetnika nastavila se uspostavom biskupije i angaæmanom kipara Kuzme KovaËiÊa za izradu stalka za uskrsnu svijeÊu. Osobito je dojmljiv lik pape Ivana Pavla II., izliven u bronci i izloæen u dijelu kripte njemu posveÊenom, autorice Marije UjeviÊ GaletoviÊ. Petar BariπiÊ autor je relikvijara u

»asopis Slavonac, Poæega, 1863./ Magazine Slavonac, Poæega, 1863

koji su poloæene blaæenikove moÊi, dar kardinala Stanislawa Dziwisa, dugogodiπnjega Papinog tajnika, a zid je ukraπen mozaikom slikara Vatroslava Kuliπa. Poæega je bogata ljudima koji znaju i umiju, a za potpun doæivljaj Poæege potrebno je dvoje: dobro je doÊi pripremljen jer tada znate πto traæite s jedne strane, a s druge preporuËujemo da si priuπtite luksuz savrπenoga turistiËkog vodiËa kakav je Mislav PavoπeviÊ iz udruge Putovanja Slavonijom, koja promiËe kulturu putovanja (www.putovanjaslavonijom.hr) i najbolji je savjetnik za potpun doæivljaj πarmantnoga slavonskoga grada baroka, vina i Ëokolade. Ako vam zatreba osvjeæenje, sjednite u neki od mnogobrojnih kaﬁÊa ili poite u

starinsku kavanu Gradskog kazaliπta Poæega, koja je sagraena i ureena u vrijeme kad je u tim prostorima poslovao hotel Zlatno janje. A ako ste ogladnjeli, lijepo Êe vas nahraniti tradicionalnim jelima u krËmi Gavran, koja se nalazi tik do gradskoga glavnog trga. U dijelu grada koji se zove Grgin dol i nalazi se blizu srediπta smjeπten je, u prekrasno prirodno okruæje podno Poæeπke gore, hotel Grgin dol. Hotel se nalazi u nadograenoj i proπirenoj zgradi streljane Poæeπkog streljaËkog druπtva iz 1871. Tu Êe vas kraljevski ugostiti biranim jelima i velikim izborom poæeπko-kutjevaËkih vina. OdluËite li grad posjetiti u vrijeme odræavanja nadaleko poznatoga Aurea fest, festival svih festivala koji se odræava prvi vikend rujna, CROATIA AIRLINES

najbolje je tad u hotelu i prenoÊiti kako bi se moglo uæivati u biranim kapljicama. Poæelite li svojima dragima donijeti suvenir, uz vino je najbolje obradovati bliænje poznatim Ëokoladama πto ih proizvodi tvrtka ZveËevo joπ od 1934. godine kad je poËela suradnja sa πvicarskom tvrtkom Nestlé. Mnogi se joπ sjeÊamo klasika kao πto su Samo ti, Volim te, Braco i seka ili poznate Ëokolade s riæom Mikado. Vikend u Poæegi moæe vas i smiriti i razgaliti, a isplati se posjetiti i obliænje KutjevaËke vinograde, u kojima se, kaæu, moæe uæivati u najﬁnijoj graπevini ili provesti cijeli dan u nedalekom i fascinantnom Parku prirode Papuk. n

believe that every one of us cherishes the following memory of childhood: we are small and we find it hard to climb a chair; the kitchen table is humongous and really difficult to tackle, yet despite that, we insist on doing our colouring only at that table, even though our grandmother is using it to roll the dough for a grenadier march, a pie or noodles for the soup. The kitchen is warm, while outside the winter makes all the shapes softer and seemingly more distant. The air starts filling with the smells of the food that grandma is preparing and we feel warmth in our hearts as if we were wrapped in a soft woollen blanket that repels sorrow and worries. Food and the way it is prepared, the choice of dishes and the way they are served, grace said before each meal and the delicate china which sees the light of day when guests come ∑ when mentioned in one breath, all these things seem to belong to a different world. A museum, even. If this is what has crossed your mind, you are right, because this kind of a world is presented in the unique Museum in a Pot which is being created and showcased on the web pages of the Poæega Municipal Museum at www.muzejuloncu.com. At this address, you can visit this most unusual exhibit whenever you want, and the ticket will cost you nothing! When you click on the web address, a veritable glory hall opens in front of you. The top shelf is full of recipes, and the lower one offers stories. Even the names of the recipes bring peace and comfort: crackling pate, asparagus moussaka, flatbread with clotted cream and wine, wine soup, Poæega drunks, salaπki πterc (a dish made of sautéed flour made into dumplings and served with milk), Poæega vineyard Êevap (grilled ground meat sausage), Turkish pumpkin strudel, carrot marmalade, the KraljeviÊ family punch cake, a farmhouse cake with sour cherries. The rich history of the city is told by the stories which are collected and recorded by the ethnologist Maja ÆebËeviÊ MatiÊ. From the story about the 66

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KolaËi poæeπki fakini/ Poæeπki fakini cakes

Muzej u loncu, Maja ÆebËeviÊ MatiÊ i Boris Knez/ Museum in a Pot, Maja ÆebËeviÊ MatiÊ and Boris Knez

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Med od repe, Muzej u loncu.../ Turnip honey, Museum in a Pot...

quince paste made by the merchant Kindl we learn that Viktor Kindl opened his delicatessen in the city centre in 1909. Moreover, it is quite astonishing that in 1934 Poæega had as many as 73 different stores which offered quite an assortment of merchandise, ranging from colonial goods, groceries, ironmonger’s ware, glassware, fabrics and textiles to the goods unusually found in a general store. The competition among them was fierce so the store owners, who were familiar with their clients’ habits and tastes, competed as to who would stock the largest number of quality cheeses, fine butters, various sorts of local wines, imported sparkling waters, fresh fruit from the southern seas and fish from the north. It is therefore not surprising that, having retired in 1903, the former mayor of Poæega, Franjo von Ciraki, decided to spend his time meticulously recording the culinary delicacies and everyday grub which was prepared and served in his household, and while describing and commenting on the food he was commenting elsewhere with the same kind of passion. Ciraki’s notes are an excellent insider view into the structure, characteristics and meaning of certain meals that were eaten throughout the year, and they are a faithful reflection of the rhythm of life led by a wellto-do urban family residing in Poæega at the beginning of the 20th century. Among the most outstanding in the city were the KraljeviÊ family, who are represented in the Museum in a Pot with their famous punch cake. Their noble status was confirmed already by King Leopold. They arrived in Slavonia in the late 17th century. Miroslav KraljeviÊ, the grandfather of the painter, was the author of the Croatian novel A student from Poæega or We Love our Nation and we Embrace our Sweet Mother Tongue in which he described the one-time town of Poæega. He was the founder of the first printing press in Poæega and the newspaper Slavonac. He was also the grand prefect of the County of Poæega and Virovitica. Both the big and close-knit family and the countryside he loved inspired the painter Miroslav KraljeviÊ to keep coming back to the city where he had his atelier in a building which still stands across the street from the Church of St. Lawrence. In October and November, a retrospective exhibition of the painter’s work was held in Poæega. The same exhibition can be seen in Zagreb from 19 December until 6 April 2014 in the Modern Gallery, whereupon it will travel to Split, Dubrovnik, Osijek and Zadar. The last great exhibition of works by the painter believed to be the greatest Croatian painter of the early 20th century was curated in 1961 by another native of Poæega, a prolific art critic

and travel writer, Matko PeiÊ. The number of prominent Poæega natives is simply fascinating. Many believe that their indisputable talent was very much enhanced by the famous grammar school they attended in Poæega. The list of prominent citizens of Poæega is really remarkable (www.pozega-tz.hr). As a reminder, let us mention but a few of the best known names: Dobriπa CesariÊ, a poet of brightness and a penchant for beauty even when the going got tough; Dragutin Lerman, a member of Stanley’s expeditions into the basin of the Congo River (the 19th c.). His diary was edited and printed in two volumes by his friend Julije Kempf. The ﬁrst was published in 1891 under the title A Journals from Africa, while the second one appeared in 1894 under the title A New Journals from Africa. Lerman inspired two other Croatian explorers, Mirko and Stjepan Seljan, who drew maps of Africa and South America in the 20th century. The already mentioned Julije Kempf was a well known teacher, writer, and in 1924 he founded the Poæega Municipal Museum. In Poæega, prominent and respectable fellow citizens are role models who are frequently mentioned and who permeate the city’s everyday life. Many of the streets bear the names of those who are no longer with us. The Bishop of Poæega, Dr. Antun ©kvorËeviÊ, informed us about the history of education in Poæega. He said: After 150 years of Ottoman rule during the 16th and 17th centuries, the church devised a programme of renewal for Slavonia and included education in it. In 1698, the Jesuits were active in Poæega and founded a grammar school as early as 1699. They gradually established a system of elementary schools in the Poæega valley and fought illiteracy in many other ways. This included sending missionaries among the populace which is testiﬁed to by the so-called Abecevice (ABCs), in the shape of posters or booklets. The Bishop of Zagreb, Franjo Thauzy, opened a seminary for future priests in Poæega in 1754 and was then granted approval from Vienna in 1761 to launch the Academia Posegana, an institution of higher education. Those educational institutions sponsored by the church were disbanded when the two clerical orders, the Jesuits and the Pauline monks, were abolished in 1772 and 1786 respectively. Only the grammar school remained. For a short while it was run by Franciscans and then fell under the state administration. The Bishop of Zagreb, Aleksandar AlagoviÊ, bought the building of the former Jesuit Collegium from the state, and in 1835 he opened an Orphanotrophy for poor and talented students in it. Currently, this is the seat of the Poæega Diocese. During the

110 years of its existence, until the year 1946 when it was abolished by the Communist government, this institution made a significant contribution to the education and high quality of teaching at the Poæega Grammar School. The Sisters of Mercy of St. Vincent de Paul Order arrived in Poæega in the second half of the 19th century and started educating young women. The school they opened operated successfully until it was closed after WW2. In 1997, Poæega became the seat of the Poæega Diocese. We wanted to hear if that had resulted in any new education initiatives. The Bishop, therefore, continued: The Diocese has drawn from historical experiences and in 2002 it started providing substantial financial support to a certain number of students from socially deprived families. In 2005, it founded an endowment fund for poor students and since then it has regularly awarded about 70 scholarships every year; in 2006, it opened a collegium ∑ a dormitory where a certain number of high school students can live for free; in 2007, it founded a Catholic classical grammar school in Poæega and Virovitica; and in 2009 a Catholic elementary school in Poæega. In that, the Diocese’s intention was not only to support a knowledge society but also to make a contribution to the comprehensive education of young people. The intention was for the young people to be educated in such a way so as to be able to apply what they have learned, to receive the kind of religious education which will allow them to acquire the most comprehensive experiences of themselves and the reality of the world they live in, and to become wise people who will work towards the common good of the Croatian society. The history of Poæega is the history of the people who have tried to achieve prosperity through collectiveness. Very early on, Poæega became the centre of a large feudal property, while the medieval town was the centre of trade, crafts, as well as administrative, military and sacral functions for the greater area. The County of Poæega was first mentioned in 1210, and a church parish in 1232. The central square in the city is Holy Trinity Square. It is flanked by monumental vaults and baroque houses on one side, and on the other by the Church of the Holy Spirit and the building of the diocese. The square shares the name with the votive sculpture of the Holy Trinity on the Plague Column, a monument to those who perished in the epidemics of the plague which raged from 15 May to 28 November 1739 and which killed a total of 789 citizens of Poæega. At the time, the town had 2 thousand inhabitants. The column was sculpted by a Venetian, Gabrijel Granicije, while his fellow CROATIA AIRLINES

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citizens participated in the construction of the surrounding baroque houses with vaulted facades similar to those in Vukovar. The best time to ﬁnd yourself in Poæega is probably a lazy weekend morning in autumn when the grapes have been picked and some of the town folks are sitting in the sun in one of the many cafes in the square under the vaults or in Cehovska Street, while others are headed to church, so that the streets and squares are busy and full of life as if it were a working day. The glad rags are the only tell tale sign that it is not. Many citizens of Poæega like to go to the Church of the Holy Spirit, which originates from the 13th century. Prominent citizens of Poæega have found their last resting place in the church, the most revered of them being Father Luka IbriπimoviÊ, the famous Sokol (Falcon) who liberated Poæega from the Turks. A particularly beautiful building is the town’s Cathedral, dedicated to St. Teresa of Ávila, built in the style of the Vienna Baroque. Although baroque in style, the church is not stiﬂing, so that inside one can breathe easily and feel like they can stretch high up to where the eye can gaze across paintings by Oton IvekoviÊ and Celestin MedoviÊ. During 1898 and 1899, these Croatian painters

decorated the church together with painter Pavao Fabec, who worked under their supervision. Above the main altar, MedoviÊ and IvekoviÊ together painted the Holy Trinity. On the vaulted ceiling above the shrine, Celestin MedoviÊ painted St. Teresa who ascends to the sky, and on the vaulted ceiling of the main nave he painted the evangelists Matthew and Mark, while Oton IvekoviÊ depicted Lucas and John. On the vault above the left nave, Oton IvekoviÊ depicted the Annunciation of Mary, and on the vault above the right nave, Celestin MedoviÊ painted Jesus on the Mount of Olives. On the left column of the main nave, Oton IvekoviÊ painted a large portrait of St. Methodius, while on the right column, Celestin MedoviÊ depicted St. Cyril. On the vault above the choir, Oton IvekoviÊ painted St. Cecilia, the patron saint of church music. The tradition of hiring talented artists has continued after the setting up of the diocese. Sculptor Kuzma KovaËiÊ was thus commissioned to create a candle stand for the Easter candle. Particularly impressive is the efﬁgy of Pope John Paul II by Marija UjeviÊ GaletoviÊ cast in bronze and displayed in the part of the crypt dedicated to him. Petar BariπiÊ is the author of the reliquary in which the relics of CROATIA AIRLINES

the blessed Pope were laid. They were a gift from Cardinal Stanislaw Dziwis who had been the Pope’s secretary for a number of years, and the wall features a mosaic by painter Vatroslav Kuliπ. Poæega abounds in people who know and can do. It takes two things to enjoy a comprehensive experience of the city: you have to come well prepared to know what you are looking for, or, alternatively, we recommend that you treat yourself to the luxury of the perfect tour guide, such as Mislav PavoπeviÊ from the association Putovanja Slavonijom (Travels through Slavonia) which promotes the travel culture (www.putivanjaslavonijom.hr). He will be your best advisor on how to obtain an all-inclusive experience of this charming Slavonian town. ...city of baroque, wine and chocolate. If you have the need for refreshment you will certainly find it in one of the myriad of little cafés, or head to the old-world Viennese-style café in Poæega’s city theatre which was set up and decorated when the building housed the hotel Zlatno janje (Golden Lamb). If you have worked up an appetite during your stroll around the city, you are in for a treat of traditional fare at the Gavran (Raven) tavern which is just off the main city square. In the part of the city known as Grgin dol, close to the city centre, you will find the namesake hotel, set in the wonderfully verdant surroundings at the foot of Poæeπka gora hill. The hotel occupies the refurbished and extended building of the former Shooting Association of Poæega which was established in 1871. Here you can look forward to a royal selection of food and wines from Poæega and Kutjevo. If you decide to pay a visit to the city during the famous Aurea Fest, festival of all festivals, which takes place in First weekend in September, it would be wise to book a room for the night and really and truly enjoy the superior quality wines. If you wish to take back a memento of your visit to your dear ones, in addition to wine, they will certainly appreciate the famous chocolate that has been manufactured by the company ZveËevo since 1943 when this chocolate manufacturer started cooperating with the Swiss company Nestlé. Many of us still have fond memories of the classic chocolates, such as Samo ti (Only you), Volim te (I love you), Braco i seka (Brother and Sister), and the famous chocolate with rice, Mikado. A weekend in Poæega can calm and enthuse you, and while there, it would be a good idea to visit the nearby vineyards in Kutjevo, where you can enjoy the finest Graπevina (Welschriesling), or spend a whole day in the fascinating Papuk Nature Park nearby. n 72

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■ PRIRODA NATURE

Tekst i fotograﬁje/Text and Photos Goran Šafarek

Nismo na Jadranskome moru nego u pitomoj Podravini kod Koprivnice, na jezerima zvanim πodericama, gdje kupaËi uæivaju u radostima na vodi. Desetak veÊih takvih jezera zrcali se u ravnici na zalazeÊem suncu, blizu obale rijeke Drave… Otkud jezera ovdje, u nizini negdaπnjega Panonskog mora? We are not on the Adriatic Coast, but rather in tame Podravina, near Koprivnica, on the lakes known as ©oderica, a place popular with those in pursuit of waterside pleasures. A dozen of such lakes shimmer in the valley and bask in the glorious sunset, close to the banks of the Drava River… What is the origin of these lakes in the valley that has remained after the one-time Pannonian Sea disappeared?

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e radi æelje za kupanjem, nego πljunkom (πoderom), mineralnom sirovinom za proizvodnju graevinskog materijala, ljudi su iskopali πoderice. »im se malo dublje razgrne meka zemlja, izviru kamenËiÊi i pijesak. Podravski πljunak visoke je kvalitete i stoga veoma traæen. Snaæan plovni bager iz mutne dubine izvlaËi neproËiπÊeni πljunak na jednome od podravskih polja za iskopavanje. I dok se voda buËno cijedi, πljunak je moæda nakon tisuÊa godina ponovno ugledao svjetlo dana. KamenËiÊi se zatim na golemom situ prosijavaju od mulja, granja i ostalih neËistoÊa. Joπ dok moÊan stroj kopa, podzemna voda puni prazninu, nastaje jezero zvano πoderica. 80

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Joπ mokar, pomalo blatan i grubo prosijani πljunak kreÊe na put do obale na pokretnoj vrpci plovnih transportera. Nastaje planina sedimenta od stotina kubiËnih metara. Golemi kamioni zatim prevoze taj πljunak na daljnju obradu, gdje cijeli zvjerinjak (menagerie) strojeva odreuje sudbinu kamenËiÊa. Obluci se peru i razvrstavaju prema veliËini te nastaju manja brda πljunka. Iz Botova i Jegeniπa putuje u ostatak Hrvatske na okoliπu prihvatljiv naËin − vlakom. Otkud πljunak u Podravini u kojoj prevladava mekana zemlja, daleko od pravih stijena kakve znamo s Velebita ili jadranske obale? Stigao je iz dalekih Alpa rijeËnim putem. Nataloæila ga je rijeka Drava koja izvire u talijanskim Alpama, gotovo na samoj granici s Austrijom. Obluci πljunka dio su negdaπnjih alpskih stijena koje su ledenjaci mrvili, a rijeka dovlaËila. Drava snagu dobiva u proljeÊe kad se u planinama topi snijeg i led. Otopljena voda puni brojne planinske potoËiÊe koji brzo prerastaju u rjeËice, a korita nabujaju otopljenom vodom. Bujica sada moæe okretati velike komade stijena, sudarati ih, otkidati komade. Stijene se zaobljuju i ﬁno poliraju, pa dolaze u Podravinu kao poznati πljunak. Nakon kopanja ostale su brazgotine u okoliπu, ali priroda ih je odmah poËela zacjeljivati. Iz gologa πljunka niËu vrbe i topole, pionirske vrste drveÊa kojima treba samo malo tla, a podnose i poplavu. Niπta manja guæva nije i u vodi. To je pravi mali botaniËki vrt vodenog bilja. Bioloπki to je veoma bogato staniπte, no kako su to manja jezera, ovdje nema ni mnogo ptica niti velikih æivotinja kao u KopaËkom ritu ili Lonjskom polju. Liska se skriva uz rub trske i tek kad je sigurna, izlazi na otvoreno da bi se hranila. U gustiπu gradi gnijezdo te polaæe jaja, a u kasno proljeÊe roditelji uËe mlade ptiÊe πto jesti − vodeno bilje, ali i male æivotinje. Tu sliËno æive i mlakuπa, kokoπica, pokoja patka ili Ëaplja. Iz sela u lov, ali i na kupanje stiæu lastavice. S obliænjih kolonija na Dravi hrane se Ëigre, elegantno grabeÊi krilima. Svjeæe iskopane ili odronjene obale katkada odaberu πarene pËelarice i smee bregunice. Obje vrste buπe tunele u mekoj zemlji na Ëijem vrhu je kuglasta prostorija − gnijezdo. Jedino doba kada se na πodericama via veÊi broj ptica jest zima, doslovno na stotine. Ptice bjeæe od leda na sjeveru, traæeÊi joπ nezaleena jezera. Pozornost valja usmjeriti i na manje æivotinje. Listovi lopoËa i trske izvrsne su platforme za odmaranje vretenaca, kukaca moËvarnih staniπta. DugaËkog tijela te velikih oËiju, s dva para dugaËkih krila lete kao mali helikopteri. Cijeli mali mikrokozmos pliva, klizi i puæe u plitkoj vodi. U proljeÊe odjekuje pjesma vodozemaca. I dok zelena æaba za ljudske

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Project management. Property consulting. Construction & Architect Abis savjetovanje d.o.o. • Abis Consulting Ltd. Nikole Tavelića 50, 21 000 Split • Tel: +385 (0) 98 265 151, Fax: +385 (0)21 473 010 • E-mail: info@abis-croatia.com

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standarde nemuzikalno krekeÊe, mukaË napuhavanjem vokalne vreÊice sasvim pristojno privlaËi æenke. MukaË ima jaku konkurenciju u trstenjaku. Kao πto mu ime kaæe, ta ptica æivi u trsci, a gotovo tako i izgleda. Teπko se zapaža, ali zato se dobro Ëuje dok muæjak oglaπava teritorij. Æivot πoderica bogat je i ispod povrπine. I s obale se u pliÊini vidi sunËanica, unesena vrsta ribe. Na dnu za hranu traæi sitne æivotinjice. Jato mladih riba ljeti izvodi pravi ples - na stotine uklija skuplja se blizu povrπine. Meu njima se motaju i meduze. Potkraj ljeta dolazi do prave eksplozije ovih mekanih i prozirnobijelih organizama, pa se Ëini da snijeg pada u zelenoj vodi. Joπ dublje, vlada mutna voda. Ljudi mogu doÊi ovamo samo uz pomoÊ ronilaËke opreme. Potopljena stabla Ëesta su u πodericama. Zaostala nakon kopanja ili naknadno baËena, to su sada mumije obloæene muljem, a omiljeno su mjesto za somove. Ove velike ribe ne boje se ronioca, Ëak im i radoznalo prilaze. Katkad se nau i grdosije, osobito zimi kada je vidljivost mnogo bolja. Manje ribe moraju se Ëuvati grabeæljivaca poput πtuke, koja u zarasloj vodi nalazi izvrstan zaklon za zasjedu. Kad ugleda plijen, eksplozivno skaËe i grabi ga sa svojih 700

zuba u velikim ustima. Vegetacija je dobra i za πarana. Hrani se sitnijom hranom, kako liËinkama razliËitih æivotinja, kukcima, tako i mladicama biljaka, sjemenkama, korijenjem. »esto Ëeprka po mulju na dnu. Vegetacija je pak kljuËna amuru, vrsti ribe unesenoj iz Azije (rijeke Amur), Ëesto radi ËiπÊenja bilja u vodama. Naime, dnevno moæe pojesti biljaka koliko je teæak, a jede i tvrdu trsku. Katkad se naie na malo jato crnih somiÊa. »esto je veÊ na drugoj obali potpuno drukËija slika. Umjesto æivotinja, u vodi su stotine kupaËa. Na popularno kupaliπte ©odericu dolaze brojni rekreativci, a na drugoj obali strojevi joπ rade. U ljetnim vruÊim danima cijele se obitelji sele u prirodu πoderica. Bjeæe s vruÊeg asfalta i iz zaguπljivih soba u sjenu stabala, na povjetarac otvorena prostora i osvjeæenje u vodi. I poljoprivrednik iz obliænjeg sela i menadæer iz grada, skidajuÊi se u kupaÊi kostim, postaju bezimeni, bezbriæni turisti. Iz parkiranih automobila natjeËe se narodna glazba s rockom, krik Ëigri s laveæom pasa, u vodi cijuk djece sa æamorom desetaka grla − i sve se stapa u jedan glas, glas plaæe. Primamljiv miris soËnog roπtilja negdje u sjeni otvara glad. Dio kupaËa, posebice mladi, ali i cijele obitelji ostaju i po nekoliko dana u πatorima. Kad im

dosadi kupanje, ima drugih opcija za zabavu, a uæivanja na vodi ne nedostaje. Veslanje u Ëamcu i istraæivanje jezera nepresuπan su izvor zabave. Dio jezera rezerviran je i za ljubitelje brzine na vodi. Wind surﬁng manje je nametljiv i gotovo tih, a najbolje je vrijeme za jakog vjetra kad su uvjeti za kupanje i ribolov ionako loπi. RonilaËki klub ©oderica, osim ronjenja, posvetio se i sportskim disciplinama poput plivanja s perajama, podvodnoj orijentaciji i drugom. Tamni oblaci najavljuju kraj ljeta. Jezero je katkada cijelo jutro potpuno skriveno pod velom sive magle. KupaËa viπe nema, sada vladaju samo ribiËi. ©oderica i ostale πljunËare vrlo su popularne lokacije za ribolov te i ljeti, uz kupaËe, love deseci ribiËa. Tu se love tipiËne nizinske vrste kakve nalazimo u Dravi te prirodnim mrtvicama, pa su i tehnike takve. Ipak, zbog selektivnog lova i poribljavanja manjak je grabeæljivaca i opÊenito je poremeÊena prirodna ravnoteæa. Najpopularniji je πaranski ribolov, Ëesto s Ëamcima. U njemu se ne sjedi nego se Ëamac rabi samo za postavljanje mamca na æeljeno mjesto, najËeπÊe na sprud. Pravilo je da se πaran i amur iznad 10 kg vraÊaju u vodu. ©oderica dræi slavan rekord od 33.5 kg− najteæi πaran ulovljen u Hrvatskoj. Blinkanjem s pomoÊu umjetnih varalica love se grabeæljivci CROATIA AIRLINES

poput πtuke, smua ili grgeËa ili pastrvskoga grgeËa (bass) bilo s obale ili Ëamca. Biolozi su veÊ poodavno uvidjeli vaænost πoderica za oËuvanje bioloπke raznolikosti. Neka moËvarna staniπta u Podravini prirodno su ostarjela, druga su isuπili ljudi, a πtetnom regulacijom Drave ne nastaju nova. ©oderice su stoga moæda posljednja utoËiπta mnogim moËvarnim æivotinjama i biljkama. Ta mjesta moraju biti primjer suæivota Ëovjeka i prirode, ali i postati vaæan turistiËki sadræaj, zasnovan na odræivom razvoju. n

eople created them by digging, not because they wanted a place to bathe, but because they needed building materials, gravel or πoder, a mineral based raw-material for the production of building materials. As soon as you start digging into the soft soil, gravel and sand will peak through its layers. Podravina gravel is of high quality and therefore very much sought after. A powerful floating excavator dredges one of the Podravina fields and extracts impure gravel from the muddy depths. And while water noisily pours out of the bucket, the gravel is allowed to see the light of day, perhaps for the first time after thousands of years. The next step involves a large sieve from which water is shaken together with mud, twigs and other impurities, and what remains is clean gravel. All the while the powerful machine keeps on digging, and then the hole fills with underground water which forms a lake, known as πoderica. Still wet, and not completely free from mud, the coarsely sieved gravel sets out on a journey on the floating transporter conveyor belts to add yet another cubic meter 82

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to the mountain of sediments which already accounts for several hundred cubic meters in size. Huge trucks then transport the gravel for further processing at a place where a whole menagerie of machines will determine the gravel’s lot. The gravel is washed clean and classified according to size. Small-sized mountains of gravel thus created in Botovo and Jegeniπ will go on a journey all over Croatia in the most environmentally friendly way − by train. One cannot help but wonder about the origin of gravel in Podravina, a region far from the nearest rocks that can be found on not so close Mount Velebit and on the Adriatic Coast, bearing in mind that the local landscape is better known for its soft soil than rockeries. It arrived from the distant Alps by river. Its deposits were formed by the Drava River which has its source in the Italian Alps, almost on the very border with Austria. The gravel is made of segments of the former Alpine rocks which were crushed by glaciers and dragged along by the river. The Drava gains its strength in springtime, when snow and ice melt in the mountains. The melted water feeds numerous mountain streams, which soon become rivers and their beds swell up out of proportion. The torrential rivers can now swirl large rocks, make them clash with each other and fragment. The rocks get rounded and finely polished and finally reach Podravina as famous gravel. The dredging activity leaves scars on the environment, which nature quickly sets out to heal. The pioneer trees which soon start growing from the bare gravel are willows and poplars, requiring only very little soil and which are also flood resistant. The underwater world is no less crowded. It is a veritable botanical garden replete with water plants. In biological terms, the habitat is rich but since the lakes are only small, the bird and large animal life that thrives here is not as impressive as in KopaËki Rit or Lonjsko Polje. Coots hide on the edge of the reed beds. They come out into the open to feed only when they feel safe to do so. They build their nests amidst the thick marshy plants and lay their eggs in them. In late spring, parents teach their offspring what to eat − water plants and also small animals. A similar lifestyle is shared by swamp chickens, water rails, an occasional duck or a crane. Swallows come from the village to hunt or to take a bath. Terns feed from colonies on the Drava, elegantly cutting the air with their wings. The freshly dug out or eroded banks are sometimes chosen by colourful bee-eaters and brown sand martins. Both species burrow tunnels in the soft soil and on top of them they

build a round room − a nest. The only time of year when one can see a larger number of birds on these quarries is winter, when there are literally hundreds of them. The birds come looking for lakes that are not frozen while fleeing the ice in the north. Smaller animals are no less worthy of our attention. Lotus and reed leaves are excellent pit stops for the dragonfly, the quintessential marshy insect. Their elongated bodies and two pairs of long wings allow them to fly like small choppers and observe the environment with a pair of big eyes. An entire microcosm swims, crawls and glides in the shallow water. Springtime is the concert season for amphibians. And while the green frog croaks quite offensively by human musical standards, the mating call of the yellow bellied toad attracts a decent number of females. The yellow bellied toad has strong competition in the marsh warbler. As the name has it, the bird’s habitats are marsh reed beds where it blends perfectly with the environment. It is very hard to spot but the male’s call to mark its territory is quite distinctive. The life in gravel quarries is rich also below the water surface. Pumpkinseed sunshine fish, introduced from abroad, can easily be seen in the shallow water from the lakeshore. It feeds on small animals on the lake bottom. A school of young fish engage in a veritable dance extravaganza in summer time − hundreds of bleaks gather close to the surface. Medusas mingle with them. In late summer, the numbers of those soft and translucent organisms simply skyrocket and make the green water look like it is covered with snow. Somewhat deeper, the water gets muddy and people can access it only with diving equipment. There is an abundance of sunken tree trunks in ©oderica. Whether they were left there after dredging or thrown into the water, they are now mummies encapsulated in mud and the favourite dwelling places for the catfish. This big fish is not intimidated by divers; they even approach them to satisfy their curiosity. They can get really big, especially in wintertime when visibility is much better. Smaller fish need to beware of predators, such as pikes, who find an excellent cover in the overgrown water world. As soon as it spots its prey, it lounges and grabs it with the 700 teeth in its mouth. The vegetation is also favourable for carp. It feeds on small animals, different animals’ larvae, and insects, as well as on sprouts, seeds and roots. It often rummages through the muddy bottom. Vegetation is important for the grass carp which owes its Croatian name to the River Amur from which it was introduced. The fish can eat its own

weight of plants a day, and it also eats hard reed, thus making quite a contribution to the cleanliness of the lake water. A small school of black bullhead can sometimes be seen gliding through the water. The picture is often completely different on the other bank with hundreds of swimmers in the water instead of animals. ©oderica is a popular bathing place attracting those in pursuit of fun and recreation, while at the same time the machines may be relentless working the other bank. During the scorching heat of summer, entire families move to the banks of the quarries to ﬁnd refuge from the melting hot asphalt and stuffy rooms under the shady tree tops; fresh breezes bring them respite and the cool water offers the greatly needed refreshment. Farmers from the nearby villages and professionals from the city change into swimming gear and thus become anonymous, carefree tourists. Country folk and rock music, both coming from parked cars, compete against each other, as well as with the terns’ shrieks and the barking of the dogs; in the water, the happy chirping of children blends with the murmur of the dozens of adult voices − all these sounds blend into one − the voice of the beach.

The tantalizing smell of grilled meat on barbecues lit in the shade is a mouth watering reminder that hunger needs to be assuaged. Some of the bathers, especially the younger ones, but also entire families, spend several days camping on the lakeshores. When they get tired of bathing, there are other pastimes as well, while waterside frolicking options never run out. Rowing a boat and exploring the lakeshores is an endless source of fun. One part of the lake is reserved for speed lovers. Wind surfing is less intrusive, almost soundless, and the best time for it is when the weather becomes less conducive to swimming and fishing due to the strong wind. The ©oderica Diving Club promotes athletic disciplines other than diving, such as fin swimming, underwater orientation and others. Dark clouds herald the end of summer. On some autumn mornings the lake is completely covered by a veil of grey fog. The swimmers are gone, and the anglers reign supreme. ©oderica and other quarry lakes are popular angling sites. Even in summertime, when swimmers are king, there are dozens of anglers right behind them. The lakes are home to species typical of the Drava River and natural lakes, and the same angling techniques are

used. However, due to selective hunting and ranching, there is a shortage of birds of prey and the natural balance is by and large impaired. The most popular is carp fishing, often from a boat. However, anglers do not sit in it but only use it to place their bytes, most often from a shoal. As a rule, a carp or a grass carp weighing over ten kilos is returned to the water. ©oderica is still the holder of a famous record − a carp weighing 33.5 kg − the heaviest ever in Croatia, was caught here. Jig fishing with artificial bytes is used for predators such as pikes, pike − perches, or bass, either from the shore or a boat. Biologists have been long aware of the importance of gravel quarries for the preservation of biological diversity. Some marsh habitats in Podravina have aged naturally, others were dried up by people, whereas new ones are not created due to the detrimental regulation of the Drava flow. Therefore, ©oderica is perhaps the last oasis for many marshy animals and plants. The lakes need to serve as an example of the cohabitation of man and nature, and at the same time, they have to become an important tourist destination, based on sustainable development. n CROATIA AIRLINES

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Pogled karijatide na Place des Terreaux/ A view of the caryatides in La Place des Terreaux

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Piše/By Dubravka Belas Fotograﬁje/Photos Lyon Tourism and Conventions

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rancuska je zemlja u kojoj se uglavnom æivi neπto ljepπe nego u ostatku svijeta. I ovdje se poslovi odrauju besprijekorno, ali pretjeranoj pohlepi i sirenskom zovu novca odolijeva se nekako prirodno, ne odustajuÊi od uæitaka svakodnevnog æivota. Ili, bolje, ne predaje im se potpuno. Uskratiti zaposlenicima, na primjer, dvosatnu stanku za ruËak, ovdje bi moglo izazvati niπta manje nego novu francusku revoluciju. U zemlji u kojoj su jednakost i solidarnost toliko ugraene u svakodnevicu, novac se i te kako cijeni, ali nije sebi svrhom, nego tek sredstvom da se æivi bolje i udobnije. Ta se vrsta slobode i radost æivljenja osjete i na ulici, jednako u malim, slikovitim mjestima s jednim trgom, crkvom i polivalentnom dvoranom, kao i u velikim gradovima; jednako na osunËanim terasama caféa, izlozima i tezgama ﬁnih duÊana ili πarenoj vrevi trænica. Svi oni rond-points, kruæni tokovi koji pomaæu da se promet rijetko zaustavlja, bukinisti i brokanteri koji, i ne previπe ambiciozno, izlaæu svoje dragocjenosti, bageti iz mirisnih pekarnica na uglu, camemberti i coulommiersi, ti meki, karakterni i senzualni sirevi koje posluæuju za desert ili umjesto njega, mâitre chocolatieri i njihove manufakture za Ëiju bi paletu slatkih ploËica trebao cijeli æivotni vijek da ih se sve iskuša… Dobivπi ime po keltskom bogu svjetla, Lugu, i tvravi (dunum) na brdaπcu Fourvière, u podnoæju Alpa, na raskriæju svih vaænih putova, negdje na pola puta izmeu Pariza i Mediterana, galoromanski Êe Lugdunum ubrzo postati jednim od kulturnih srediπta Rimskog Carstva i srcem pokrajine Galije. ZakuËasti Êe putovi zakonitosti francuskoga jezika s vremenom to ime prezvuËiti u danaπnji Lyon; s okolnim naseljima, drugu urbanu regiju u zemlji. Broj 2 i svjetlost, poput glazbenog motiva koji se uvijek iznova ponavlja, Ëesto se vezuju uz Lyon. Ovdje su roena dva rimska cara, Klaudije i Karakala, dijele ga dvije velike rijeke. Nad gradom se steru dva brda − Fourvière, s bazilikom i kapelom, zvan brdo koje moli i Croix Rousse, brdo koje radi. Proπlost i prosperitet grada vezani su i uz rijeke svile i æakarda, a iz Lyona je, dakako, gospodin Jacquard. Pokretne slike, cinéma, i dva brata Lumière. Lumière znaËi svjetlost, a da se svjetlo lomi u dugine boje, meu prvima je opisao Ampère. ZahvaljujuÊi gospodinu Ampèreu, roenom u Lyonu, danas imamo i amper, mjeru za jakost struje, galvanometar i telegraf, a iz Lyona je i Abbé Pierre, mali brat, osnivaË poznatog Pokreta Emmaüs, laiËke udruge u borbi za inkluziju i smjeπtaj ovisnika, beskuÊnika i nesretnika svake vrste. NoÊni let roman je grofa, poznatijega kao pilota, takoer roenoga u Lyonu, Antoinea de Saint-Exupéryja, i priËa o 86

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ljubavi i ljepoti letenja. Vol de nuit istodobno je nadahnuÊe za glasoviti parfem koji podsjeÊa na pustolovinu, na noÊno nebo, svjetlost zvijezda i gradova daleko dolje. Iz Lyona su i Madame Recamier i njezin brokatni recamier, po kojem se i danas zovu Ëak i nove, moderne poluleæaljke. Lyon je poznat i po ruæiËastim pralinama, zelenim jastucima koji se mogu jesti, po glaziranim maronima i joπ mnogo toga − poput traboulea − javno-privatnih gradskih prolaza i proËeljima oslikanima optiËkim varkama. Lyon se diËi prvom krπÊanskom crkvom u Galiji, ali i najstarijom bolnicom u Francuskoj − svoj je Hôtel-Dieu osnovao nevjerojatne 543. godine. Lyon zovu gastronomskom prijestolnicom svijeta, ne samo zbog gastroreformistiËke nouvelle cuisine i Paula Bocusea, nego i svih onih restorana koje ovdje nazivaju bouchons, a po autohtonosti su sliËni naπim konobama. Bouchoni posluæuju tradicionalna lionska jela, poput crnih krvavica, gusje paπtete ili svinjskih peËenja. To nisu proﬁnjena jela haute cuisine, nego pravi i krepki radniËki obroci, s mesom u glavnoj ulozi i opuπtenom i srdaËnom atmosferom za stolom. Bouchoni svoju povijest vuku joπ iz 17. i 18. stoljeÊa kad su okrjepu u skromnim krËmama traæili lionski svilari ili trgovci svilom - putnici koji su samo prolazili kroz grad. Bouchon je, inaËe, ime plutenog Ëepa za boce, no nekad su se boce Ëepile Ëvrstim smotuljkom od slame. Prikaz takvoga slamnatog snopiÊa na cimeru oznaËavao bi okrjepiliπte. A okrijepiti se ovdje zacijelo moæete uz specijalitete Ëiji su sastojci Ëesto prezreni u graanskim kuhinjama. Ipak, vegetarijanci slabijeg srca svakako bi trebali razmisliti prije ulaska. Ovdje se, uz suhe lionske kobasice, posluæuju juhe od bundeve ili iznutrica, andouillettes - kobasice od krupno kosanih tripica, salate od govee ili magareÊe gubice, od pileÊe jetre, ili lionska od zelene salate sa slaninom, krutonima, poπiranim jajetom i dresingom od senfa; crne krvavice s peËenim jabukama, valjuπci od ribe − quenelles; zatim klasici poput coq-au-vin, pijetla u vinu ili jednolonËnice od govedine pot-au-feu, pileÊi bataci punjeni dudom, artiËoke punjene koπtanom sræi. Neπto je lakπi svilarov mozak, cervelle des canuts − priliËno zastraπujuÊi naziv za svjeæi sir zaËinjen kozjakom, vlascem, paprom, vinskim octom i maslinovim uljem. Ne zvuËi niπta bolje ni fromage de tête de cochon, sir od svinjske glave, iza Ëijega se neobiËnog imena krije domaÊa tlaËenica. Tko sve to ne moæe podnijeti, moæe odabrati svilarski kavijar, popularno jelo u kojemu leÊa glumi kavijar ili sir Saint-Félicien, lokalni meki sir od kravljeg mlijeka, sliËan mnogo poznatijem Saint-Marcelinu, oba podatna i snaæna, oraπastog okusa s barπunastom korom od ﬁne, bijele plijesni.

Obilazak grada na lakπi naËin, cyclopolitainom/ An easier way to see the city - by cyclopolitain

Upoznati Francusku i njezin ritam u kojemu se ljubomorno Ëuva vrijeme za sebe, za obitelj, za dobre ﬁlmove i knjige, za veËere s prijateljima; doæivjeti taj galski savoir vivre − ili kako-izvuÊi-najbolje-od-æivotau-svim-okolnostima, znaËi istodobno zaraziti se neizljeËivom Ëeænjom da opet jednom otputujete tamo. Lyon nije nikakva iznimka. ©toviπe, s dvije tisuÊe godina ljepote i πarma jednakog pariπkome, Lyon je nekako uspio ostati najbolje Ëuvana francuska tajna. Getting to know France and its rhythm, with time jealously guarded for oneself, one’s family, good movies and books, for dinners with friends; experiencing Gaulic savoir vivre − which translates into getting the best out of life under all circumstances, means becoming infected with the incurable desire to go back. Lyon is no exception. Moreover, it has managed to remain the best kept French secret despite the two thousand years of charm and beauty on a par with Paris. CROATIA AIRLINES

Lionski DJ, Festival zvuËnih noÊi/ A Lyon DJ - Nuits Sonores Festival

Mural s optiËkom varkom/ 88 CROATIA AIRLINES Mural with a mirage

Dakako, sve se to zalijeva dobrom kapljicom s obronaka iznad rijeke Rhône. Dvije od najpoznatijih francuskih vinorodnih regija prikladno se nalaze u blizini grada − Beaujolais na sjeveru i Côte du Rhône prema jugu. Beaujolais je osobito popularan i najËeπÊe je stolno vino sluæeno uz lokalna jela. Nezaobilazni lionski deserti pite su od meringe, zapeËene pjene od bjelanjaka s limunom, tart od lionskih ruæiËastih pralina − lomljenih badema u oklopu od ruæiËastog πeÊera, karamelizirane jabuke ili bugnes, præeno tijesto aromatizirano umbirom, cedrom, kardamom ili πafranom i posuto πeÊerom. Svakako, kad smo veÊ kod slatkog, morate znati i πto su to lionski jastuci. U 17. stoljeÊu, za epidemije kuge − lionski su vijeÊnici organizirali procesiju do Blaæene Djevice na Fourvièreu kako bi je zamolili da zaπtiti grad od zaraze. Veliku i teπku svijeÊu nosili su na jastuku od zelene svile. To je majstoru Voisinu poslije dalo ideju za poslasticu od Ëokoladnoga ganaπa aromatiziranog curaçaoom, sve u omotu od zelenog marcipana i u obliku - jastuËiÊa. No vratimo se na poËetak: iz rimskog su doba preostala dva rimska amﬁteatra. Manji Odeon, graen u 2. stoljeÊu, oduvijek je sluæio za muziËke priredbe i recitale. Veliki, promjera 108 metara, poput nogometnog igraliπta, moæe primiti Ëak 11.000 gledatelja. Cijele se godine ovdje odræavaju brojne manifestacije, od kojih su najpoznatije Furvijerske noÊi, u Ëast Blaæene Djevice, zaπtitnice grada. Njoj su se joπ u 17. stoljeÊu zavjetovali i lionski porotnici, da Êe joj na breæuljku sagraditi kapelu ako grad poπtedi poπasti kuge. Tako i bi. Dvije stotine godina poslije, kapela je proπirena i ukraπena zlatnim DjeviËinim kipom. Iz tog se znaka zahvalnosti razvila tradicionalna sveËanost 8. prosinca, na dan postavljanja zlatne statue, kad je grad zasjao pod svjetlima svijeÊa koje su graani postavili u prozore. SveËanost svjetlosti, Fête des lumières, priskrbila je Lyonu joπ jednu titulu − prijestolnice svjetla. Dizajneri sa svih strana svijeta, u Ëetiri dana koja slijede, Lyon doista pretvaraju u Ëaroliju svjetla ali i zvuka − ulice, fontane i zgrade obasjavaju se raznobojnim pokretnim svjetlima, katkad tako da se Ëini kako su rijeke izaπle iz korita i prelijevaju se gradom. Ponekad se ulicama kotrljaju vilinske kugle i mjehuri od svjetlosti ili visoko u nebo diæu obelisci i piramide sazdane od drhtavih svjetlosnih vrpci. Zanimljivo je da su amﬁteatri i arheoloπki park oko njih otkriveni tek 1933. godine. Spomenimo i da su meu prvim puËkim krπÊanskim muËenicima na tlu danaπnje Francuske bili lugdunumska robinja Blandina i mladiÊ Pontik. U progonu je stradao i biskup Potin i joπ 44 krπÊana iz Lyona i obliænjega gradiÊa Vienne.

StubiĎ&#x20AC;te u Starom Lyonu, trabula/ A staircase in Old Lyon the so-called traboule Canuts, omiljeni bouchon, restoran nazvan po lionskim svilarima/ Canuts - the favourite bouchon owes its name to Lyonnais silk workers (dolje/down)

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Ipak, ta se 177. godina smatra poËetkom Zapadne krπÊanske crkve. U Vienni se, tvrde, nalazi, a mnogi ga hodoËasnici i obilaze, grob Poncija Pilata, roenoga u Lugdunumu. Nedaleko je i Mont Pilat, gora u kojoj se, prema jednoj verziji muËen boleπÊu i grizoduπjem, objesio Ëovjek koji je Isusa Krista osudio na smrt na kriæu. U svojoj burnoj povijesti Lyon su pustošili Huni, Franci i Saraceni, u njemu su stolovala Ëak dva njemaËka kralja, a u 13. stoljeÊu postao je mjestom susreta dvaju ekumenskih koncila u tada joπ nedovrπenoj katedrali sv. Ivana. U Lyonu je jedan papa, Klement V., okrunjen, a drugi, Ivan XXII., izabran. Prije toga ondje je, izgnan iz Italije, boravio i Papa Klement Inocent IV. Godine 1562., dva mjeseca od poËetka religioznih ratova, gradska vlast joπ ima protestantsku veÊinu - Lyon je u to vrijeme raskriæje trgovaËkih putova, poglavito trgovaca svilom i tkaninom. NjemaËki i πvicarski trgovci, dolazeÊi iz protestantskih gradova, sreÊu se ovdje na sajmovima, dijeleÊi kalvinistiËke tiskovine. Lyon, drugo po veliËini francusko tiskarsko srediπte, ujedno je intelektualna prijestolnica kraljevine, veÊ tada s tisuÊu tiskarskih radnika, rasporeenih u 20 zanata, od korektora do ilustratora. Tiskare su smjeπtene na Poluotoku (ili bolje − skoro-otoku, kako kaæu Francuzi) izmeu Rhône i Saône, gdje æivi veÊina lionskih protestanata − hugenota, a knjige i broπure svakako potiËu rasprostiranje novih ideja. I Nostradamus je svoje najpoznatije djelo, Centurije, od deset dijelova i stotinu kvatrena, tiskao upravo u Lyonu. Ne treba zaboraviti da je joπ Peter Waldo, bogati lionski trgovac, stoljeÊima prije, posluπao Kristov savjet i sve svoje bogatstvo podijelio siromasima, vodeÊi zatim jednostavan æivot i promiËuÊi krπÊansko milosre. Broj njegovih poklonika rastao je brzo unatoË progonima inkvizicije, i dostigao treÊinu od tadaπnjih 50.000 stanovnika. Danas je ekumenizam zamijenio vjerske ratove, a dijalog se uspostavio meu svim krπÊanskim crkvama, jednako i sa æidovskim i muslimanskim zajednicama. Lyon su, svejedno, Ëekala joπ neka teπka iskuπenja − za Francuske Republike, grad je podræavao æirondince, i tek nakon dva mjeseca jakobinske opsade, slomljen je i proglaπen Otvorenim gradom. Za vrijeme Drugog svjetskog rata, veÊ od 1940. godine, u Lyonu je zaËet Mouvement de la Résistance, πiroki Pokret otpora. Lyon postaje izvoriπtem te vojnim, obavjeπtajnim i intelektualnim sjediπtem borbe protiv njemaËke okupacije. A kad se u Lyonu nije ratovalo i ruπilo, radilo se i gradilo. Povijest lionskog svilarstva zaËetog u renesansi na obalama Saône, proteæe se preko pet stoljeÊa i razumijeva sve faze proizvodnje svile, od uzgoja duda i dudova svilca, predenja 90

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niti i njihova tkanja do kreiranja motiva, apreture i prodaje. Osobit procvat industrija doæivljava za Luja XIV., kad se versajska dvorska moda nameÊe svim ostalim europskim dvorovima, a sve poËinje i zavrπava lionskom svilom. Svoje najslavnije dane svilarstvo doæivljava u 18. stoljeÊu, u vrijeme carice Joséphine za koju se godiπnje proizvodilo dvjestotinjak haljina, a moÊ mode (ili pomodnosti) utjecala na sve francuske dame koje su si to mogle priuπtiti. Svila se stoljeÊima izraivala na ruËnim tkalaËkim strojevima, no u poËetku 19. stoljeÊa izbija prava revolucija. Izumom mehaniËkog razboja, prvog programabilnog stroja zasnovanoga na sustavu perforiranih kartica, Joseph-Marie Jacquard omoguÊuje masovnu proizvodnju dezenirane svile s uzorkom. To je novi boom lionskog svilarstva; u gradu se u jednom trenutku vrti gotovo 3000 Jacquardovih razboja. PolitiËke su krize, poput religijskih ratova ili revolucija, katkad povremeno smanjile proizvodnju, no sredinom 19. stoljeÊa virusi i gljivice poput poπasti zahvaÊaju populaciju dudovih svilaca u zemlji, pa Ëitava industrija gotovo propada. Zanimljivo je da se u to vrijeme i u Hrvatskoj, osobito u Dalmaciji, uzgajao dud i svilena buba i pravila svila. Negdje u poËetku 20. stoljeÊa, samo je u Dalmaciji bilo posaeno viπe od tri milijuna dudovih stabala, pa ipak su Bunjevke i druge vojvoanske Hrvatice svilu za izradu æenskih bunjevaËkih ruva (ruha), najËeπÊe s pliπanim granama ili cvjetnim motivima, te atlasnu sjajnu i glatku svilu, nabavljale izravno iz Lyona, iako je za jednu noπnju trebalo i do πest metara svile. KonaËni udarac lionskoj svili nove su umjetne tkanine pa proizvodnja tridesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa gotovo zamire. Iako je bilo pokuπaja oæivljavanja svilarstva nakon Drugoga svjetskog rata, danas se svila proizvodi tek u manjim koliËinama dovoljnima za potrebe haute couture. Jedan od nezaobilaznih razgleda u Lyonu su traboules, djelomiËno natkriveni pasaæi kroz blokove zgrada. Tridesetak danas otvorenih trabula neprocjenjive su estetske i povijesne vrijednosti grada. Ulazi u prolaze nisu lako uoËljivi, najËeπÊe su zatvoreni obiËnim vratima, poput uobiËajenih ulaza u palaËe ili njihove veæe. No kad na njima vidite ploËu koja vas poziva da poπtujete mir i privatno vlasniπtvo stanara, znat Êete da se ovuda moæe skratiti put do druge ulice, umjesto da se obilazi oko Ëitavog bloka. Trabule su otkljuËane najËeπÊe od 7 do 19 sati, a zauzvrat stanarima koji dopuπtaju prolaz graanima i turistima, gradska uprava Lyona snosi troπkove odræavanja, ËiπÊenja i osvjetljenja. Kad jednom odπkrinete neka od tih oznaËenih vrata, osjetit Êete se poput istraæivaËa kojemu je dopuπteno iznutra pogledati ljubomorno Ëuvano blago. Prolazi se

veÊinom nalaze u Starom Lyonu (Vieux Lyon) i zgradama koje se spuπtaju niz Croix Rousse. Smatra se da su prve trabule sagraene u 4. stoljeÊu kako bi stanovnici Lugdunuma lakπe silazili do Saône. Tradicija se nastavila i kad je trebalo omoguÊiti nesmetani silazak svilarskih trgovaca koji su se s lionskih breæuljaka spuπtali noseÊi dugaËke bale svile do rijeke i srediπta Lyona. Mreæa tajnih prolaza bila je veoma korisna i Pokretu otpora za njemaËke okupacije, kad se, zacijelo, mnogi gestapovac zbunio iznenadnim propadanjem u zemlju ljudi koje su progonili. RaËuna se da ukupno u Lyonu ima oko Ëetiri stotine trabula, no veÊina ih je zatvorena za graanstvo. Neke su restaurirane do posljednjeg detalja, pa u preostalih tridesetak otvorenih svi imaju priliku uæivati u prekrasnim zavojitim stubiπtima, ureenim unutarnjim dvoriπtima, kupolama, portalima, svodovima, loama i dvoriπnim galerijama. Joπ jedna od spektakularnih osobitosti Lyona njegovi su trompe l’oeil murali, duhovite, umjetniËki oslikane optiËke varke, od malih prizora ponekih vrata ili velikih stuba kojima æelite nastaviti πetnju, no kad im se pribliæite, vidite da je rijeË tek o oslikanome zidu, do velikih genre-prizora. Ponekad Êe vam neki muπkarac s balkona neumorno pokazivati put, drugi Êe s obitelji silaziti nepostojeÊim stubama, treÊi Êe stajati pred bankomatom i podizati novac. Ni Ëovjek niti bankomat nisu stvarni, pa opet Êe mnogi prolaznik prijeÊi ulicu da i sam ubaci svoju karticu, i tek tada shvatiti da se nalazi pred slikom. Jedan od umjetniËki oslikanih murala jest i Freska s Lioncima, koja obuhvaÊa svih sedam katova zgrade, s prikazom slavnih graana Lyona, od Paula Bocusea, muËenice sv. Blandine, rimskog cara Klaudija, kreatora Guignola Laurenta Mourgueta, Augustea i Louisa Lumièrea i mnogih drugih. UmjetniËko je oslikavanje praznih zidova poËelo sedamdesetih godina s namjerom da osvjeæi pomalo sumorni industrijski image grada, i danas doista svjedoËi o njegovu modernom i vedrom duhu, i, zamislite, bez ijednoga jedinoga graﬁta na vidiku. Guignol, poznato francusko lutkarsko kazaliπte nazvano po svome glavnom liku, lutku Guignolu, kreirano je upravo u Lyonu, prije dvije stotine godina. UliËne su predstave bile nadahnute teπkim poloæajem svilarskih radnika, a poslije su, πirom zemlje, satiriËno komentirale svaku loπu politiku, bilo u gradu ili dræavi. Lutak Guignol jedan je od prvih druπtvenih komentatora, vrlo omiljen zbog svoje duhovitosti i jetkog jezika, a njegovi sukobi s policijom Ëesto zavrπavaju u komiËnoj borbi palicama. Danas je guignol omiljena obiteljska zabava, a marionetske su lutke postale popularnim suvenirima. Lyon je na karti svijeta oznaËen i kao rodno

mjesto sedme umjetnosti. Dva sloæna brata, Auguste i Louis Lumière 1895. godine izumili su kinematograf koji je omoguÊio javno prikazivanje filmova, prvu filmsku kameru sa svim funkcijama u jednom aparatu. Kamera je i snimala i procesuirala film te sluæila za projekciju, a filmove je sada moglo gledati mnoπtvo ljudi, za razliku od Edisonova kinetoskopa koji je bio ograniËen samo na jednoga gledatelja. Danas se u njihovu dvorcu u središtu Lyona, zanimljivom i arhitektonski, nalazi Muzej Lumière, u kojemu se mogu vidjeti prvi filmovi na svijetu, u trajanju od Ëetrdesetak sekundi − sve tri verzije legendarnog Izlaska radnika iz tvornice Lumière, zatim Ulazak vlaka u stanicu zbog Ëije su sugestivno snimljene lokomotive mnogi od tih prvih, neiskusnih gledatelja bjeæali iz kinodvorane u strahu da Êe ih pregaziti vlak te Poliveni poljevaË, prva i najkraÊa filmska komedija, s trikom koji se poslije Ëesto ponavljao u slapstick komedijama. U glavnoj je ulozi obiteljski vrtlar kojemu deran stane na crijevo za polijevanje dok zalijeva gredice s povrÊem. Kad zbunjeni vrtlar pogleda u kraj crijeva iz kojega je iznenada prestala teÊi voda, deran podigne nogu i …ostalo je povijest. Lyon je sa svojim trgovima, kilometrima πetnica na besprijekorno ureenim obalama dviju rijeka, sa svojim uπËuvanim antiËkim spomenicima, netaknutom srednjovjekovnom i renesansnom jezgrom zbog koje je drugi najveÊi renesansni grad poslije Venecije, poπteenom graevinskog vandalizma, oËekivano dospio na popis Unescove kulturne baπtine. Ali nije samo proπlost najljepπe lice Lyona − na njegovim su rubovima, poput suvremene Ëetvrti Confluence (UπÊe), sagraeni mnogi suvremeni arhitektonski dragulji od onih Jeana Nouvela do drugih glasovitih arhitekata danaπnjice. Ovdje gdje se sastaju dvije velike vode, stotinama su godina postojali luËki dokovi, a sada se pretvaraju u nove urbane cjeline s parkovima i zelenilom, marinama, shopping centrima, restoranima i poslovnim zgradama, pokazujuÊi sva dostignuÊa suvremene arhitekture. A na Poluotoku, dugom jeziku kopna uvuËenom izmeu dviju rijeka sve do njihove spojnice, paænju privlaËe dva najveÊa trga - Place Bellecour sa svojim kaféima i duÊanima, spomenicima Luju XIV. i Saint-Exuperyju, s pilotskom kapom i likom Malog princa za leima. Place des Terreaux s raskoπnom gradskom vijeÊnicom, s malim Louvreom − Muzejom lijepih umjetnosti, te monumentalnom Bartholdijevom fontanom, s Ëetiri konja koje zauzdaje Marianne, simboliËki lik Francuske. Ovdje je i katedrala sa spektakularnim vitrajima i astronomskim satom, uspinjaËa koja odatle vodi do bazilike Notre Dame de Fourvière, pune zlatnih ukrasa i mozaika, odakle se pruæa CROATIA AIRLINES

Bijenale suvremene umjetnosti − Drugi peËat, Tsang Kin-wah/ Biennale of Contemporary Art − The Second Seal, Tsang Kin-wah

Rimski amﬁteatar na brdu Fourvière/ The Roman amphitheatre on Fourvière

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Hôtel-Dieu s druge obale Rhône/ Hôtel-Dieu from the other bank of the Rhône

Le Marché Gare, koncertna dvorana, Festival zvuËnih noÊi/ Le Marché Gare - Concert Hall, Nuits Sonores Festival

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fantastiËan pogled na grad, a Parc de la Tête d’Or s botaniËkim i zooloπkim vrtom jedan je od europskih najveÊih parkova. Lyon je i snaæno poslovno srediπte s nekoliko meunarodnih velesajmova, kongresni centar, æeljezniËko i cestovno Ëvoriπte, sa suvremenom zraËnom lukom nazvanom po Saint-Exupéryju, kako drugaËije…Centar bankarstva, softverske, farmaceutske i biotehnoloπke industrije, sjediπte je Interpola i Euronewsa te programa interkulturalnih gradova Europske komisije. Jednome se poduzetniku iz Dubaija Lyon toliko svidio da je u svome gradu, na povrπini veliËine 400.000 hektara, odluËio sagraditi svoju verziju Lyona, s ulicama i trgovima, restoranima, kinematograﬁma, πkolama. Cilj mu nije samo ﬁziËki preslikati Lyon nego i prenijeti kompletnu atmosferu pulsirajuÊega grada i francuske kulture. Uz stanove, urede i hotele, Lyon-Dubai City previa i ugostiteljsku πkolu pod palicom Paul Bocuse Instituta, kinoteku, pa i centar za πkolovanje nogometaπa, po uzoru na lionski Olympique. Treba reÊi da poslovni Ëovjek iz Dubaija nije jedini zaljubljenik u Lyon, jer se, jednostavno, svi koji su ga ikad posjetili, æele onamo vratiti. Na vama je da provjerite zaπto. ■

ife in France is by and large more pleasant than anywhere else in the world. Here, work does get done impeccably, but excessive greed and the sirens’ call of money are resisted quite naturally, or rather, one does not succumb to them − at least not fully and never at the expense of the small pleasures of everyday life… If staff were denied their two-hour lunch break, for example, the decision-maker should better expect no less than a new French Revolution. In a country where equality and solidarity are so ﬁrmly rooted in everyday life, money is certainly valued, but not just for its own sake, but as the means to a better and more comfortable life. This is the kind of freedom and joie de vivre that can be felt everywhere: on the streets of small picturesque places with just one square, one church and one multifunctional hall, as well as in large cities; on the sun-drenched café terraces, in the shop windows and at the counters of luxury good shops, as well as in the hustle and bustle of outdoor food markets. One should experience the roundabouts through which trafﬁc slows smoothly, bouquinistes and brocanters who put their ware on display with little apparent ambition, the smell of baguettes coming from the bakeries on the corner, camembert and coulommiers, those soft, typically French, sensuous cheeses which are served after dinner with dessert or instead of it, mâitres chocolatiers and their manufactures; a whole 94

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lifetime would not suffice to taste the whole gamut of their sweet produce… Deriving its name from the name of the Celtic god of light, Lugh, and the fortress (dunum) on Fourvière hilltop at the foot of the Alps, at the crossroads of all the important routes, almost half-way between Paris and the Mediterranean, Gaulic Roman Lugdunum quickly became one of the centres of culture in the Roman Empire and the heart of the Gaulic province. Following the obscure laws of the French language, the name was changed to Lyon, and the city, together with the suburban area, became the second largest urban region in the country. Like a recurring musical motif, the number 2 and light are often used when describing Lyon. Two Roman emperors were born here, Claudius and Caracalla. It is crossed by two big water courses. Two hills overlook the city, Fourvière, also known as the Praying Hill with a basilica and a chapel; and Croix Rousse, the Working Hill. The city’s history and prosperity are tied to the rivers of silk and jacquards; needless to say, Mr. Jacquard himself hails from Lyon. It is associated with moving images, cinéma, and the two Lumière brothers. Lumière means light, and Ampère was the first to describe the fragmentation of light into the colours of the rainbow. He was born in Lyon and gave his name to ampere, the unit of electric current. We also owe him the galvanometer and the telegraph. Another notable of Lyon was Abbé Pierre, his younger brother, the founder of the well known Emmaus Movement, a laypersons association whose goal is inclusion and providing accommodation for addicts, homeless people and the needy of all kind. Night Flight is a novel and the story of the love and beauty of flying which was written by a count, better known as a pilot, and also a native of Lyon, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. Vol de nuit provided inspiration for a famous fragrance which conjures up adventure, the night sky, starlight and the cities way beneath them. Lyon was the birth place of Madame Recamier and her brocade Recamier. The name is proudly worn even today by most contemporary backless sofas. Lyon is also famous for pink pralines and edible green cushions (Coussin de Lyon), for marons glacées and many other things − like traboules − private passageways used by the general public, and facades featuring optical illusions. Lyon boasts the first Christian church in Gaul as well as the oldest hospital in France - its Hôtel-Dieu was opened unbelievably early, in 543. Lyon boasts the title of the gastronomic capital of the world, not only because of Paul Bocuse’s gastro-reformist nouvelle cuisine, but also because of all those

PjeĎ&#x20AC;ice i biciklom preko Pasarele st. Vincent/ On foot and by bike across the Passerelle St. Vincent CROATIA AIRLINES

restaurants which people here call bouchons and whose authenticity is similar to our own Dalmatian konoba. Bouchons serve traditional Lyonnais dishes, like black pudding, goose pâté or roast pork. None of these falls within the gamut of refined haute cuisine; they are truly wholesome workers’ dishes, with meat at the centre stage, eaten with a relaxed and jovial table atmosphere. Bouchon is the word used for a cork bottle stopper, but there was a time when bottles were closed with a tight roll of straw. An image of such a roll of straw depicted on the sign above the door denoted a place where you could get nourishment for your body. And your body can certainly get plenty of nourishment with specialties containing ingredients which are often sneered upon in bourgeois cuisine. Fainthearted vegetarians should think twice before entering. Lyon dry sausages are a staple dish; there are pumpkin or innards soups, andouillettes - sausages made with coarsely grained tripe, beef or donkey snout salads, chicken liver salad or the typical Lyon salad with lettuce, bacon, croutons, a poached egg and mustard dressing; black pudding with baked apple, ground fish dumplings − quenelles; the classics like coq-au-vin, or pot-au-feu or pot roast, chicken thighs stuffed with morels, artichokes filled with bone marrow. Somewhat lighter are the dishes like silk worker’s brain, cervelle des canuts − a rather off-putting name for a cheese spread seasoned with chives, pepper, wine vinegar and olive oil. Not any better sounding is the fromage de tête de cochon, pig’s head cheese. The somewhat unusual name hides the equivalent of our own brawn. There is an alternative for all those who find these dishes too much: silk worker’s caviar, a dish in which lentils emulate caviar, or SaintFélicien, a local soft cow’s milk cheese similar to the much better known Saint-Marcellin, both soft and powerful, with a nutty taste and a white, mould ripened rind. Of course, all of that goes down much better with a glass of wine produced on the slopes above the banks of the Rhône. Quite conveniently, two of the best known French wine growing regions are close to the city - Beaujolais in the north and Côte du Rhône towards the south. Beaujolais is a particularly popular table wine and most commonly served with local food. The notto-be-missed Lyonnais desserts are lemon meringue pies, pink praline tart − crushed almonds encased in pink sugar, caramelized apples, and bugnes de Lyon or angel wings, deep fried dough seasoned with ginger, cedar, cardamom or saffron and coated with sugar. Since we are talking about desserts, you have to hear the story of the Lyon cushions. 96

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During the plague epidemic in the 17th century, the aldermen of Lyon made a vow to organize a procession at Fourvière to implore the Virgin to save the city. They carried a big and heavy candle of wax on a green silk cushion. This gave the chocolatier Voisin the idea of using the shape of the cushion to create this confection with chocolate ganache flavoured with curacao and enveloped in a green marzipan cushion. But let us go back to the origin of things. Two Roman amphitheatres bear witness to the Roman rule: the smaller one, Odeon, was built in the 2nd century and was always used for musical events and recitals. The bigger one, with a diameter of 108 metres, thus equalling the size of a football pitch, can accommodate up to 11,000 spectators. Throughout the year it is used as the venue for various events, of which the most popular one is the so called Fourvière Nights, dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, the patron saint of the city. In the 17th century, Lyon’s municipal councillors promised to build a chapel and dedicate it to her if she spared the city from the plague. And so they did. Two hundred years later, the chapel was extended and decorated with a golden effigy of the Virgin. The act of gratitude has since become a traditional festivity on 8 December, the day when the gold statue was erected and when the city was illuminated with candles that the citizens placed in their windows. The Festival of Lights, Fête des lumières, has afforded Lyon yet another title − the Capital of Lights. During the four days that follow, designers from the world over transform Lyon into a wonderland of light and sound − its streets, fountains and buildings are set ablaze with multicoloured pyrotechnics and light shows, looking as if the rivers have left their beds and spilled over around the town. Fairy balls and light bulbs roll down the city streets; obelisks and pyramids built of shivering light beams rise high up into the sky. Interestingly enough, the amphitheatres and the archaeological park around them were discovered only in 1933. Let us mention here the Lugdunum slave Blandina and the young man Ponticus who were among the first The same persecution claimed the lives of Bishop Pothinus and 44 other Christians of Lyon and nearby Vienna. That year, 177, is considered the beginning of the Western Christian church. People believe that the grave of Pontius Pilate, a native of Lugdunum, is in Vienna and pilgrims come to visit it in great numbers. Not far from there is Mont Pilat. A version of his life story has it that tortured by sickness and remorse the man who condemned Jesus Christ to death on the cross hanged himself there.

Conﬂuence, moderna arhitektura na UπÊu/ Conﬂuence - modern urban architecture

ZvuËni apero − bar, Festival zvuËnih noÊi/ Nuits Sonores Festival Sound Apero Bar CROATIA AIRLINES

Vodene igre na πetnici uz rijeku/ Frolicking with water on a river promenade Bazen, Festival zvuËnih noÊi/ Swimming Pool, Nuits Sonores Festival

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Place des Terreaux za trajanja SveËanosti svjetlosti/ Place des Terreaux during the Lights Festival Katedrala sv. Ivana/ St. John’s Cathedral

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NaranËasta kocka, Le cube orange, na dokovima Saône, poslovni i izloæbeni prostor/ The Orange Cube - Le Cube Orange on the banks of the Saône River, a commercial and exhibition space

NoÊni æivot, Festival zvuËnih noÊi/ Night life, Nuits Sonores Festival

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During its stormy history, Lyon was the seat of two German kings, and in the 13th century its unﬁnished Cathedral of St. John was the venue of two ecumenical councils. One Pope, Clement V, was crowned in Lyon, and another one, John XXII, was elected there. When he was expelled from Italy, Pope Clement Innocent IV had spent some time in Lyon. In 1562, two months after the beginning of the religious wars, the city authorities still had a protestant majority. At that time, Lyon was a crossroads of trade routes, particularly for the silk and clothes trades. German and Swiss merchants who came from protestant cities met at trade fairs in Lyon and distributed Calvinist materials. At the time, Lyon was the second largest centre of printing in France, and also the intellectual capital of the kingdom which had one thousand workers in the printing industry, divided into 20 various crafts, including correctors and illustrators. Printing presses were located on the Peninsula (or, better yet, as the French call it, the near-island) between the Rhône and Saône rivers, where most of the Lyonnais protestants − the Huguenots, resided, while books and brochures certainly encouraged the spreading of new ideas. Nostradamus chose Lyon as the place to print his best known work, Centuries. Each of the ten centuries had one hundred quatrains. It should not be forgotten that centuries before that a rich Lyonnais merchant, Peter Waldo, had followed Christ’s advice, distributed all of his wealth among the poor, and continued to live a simple life and promote Christian mercy. The number of his followers grew rapidly, despite prosecution by the Inquisition, and eventually comprised one third of the 50,000 total population. Ecumenism has replaced religious wars, and dialogue has been established among all Christian churches, as well as with the Jewish and Muslim communities. But many trials and tribulations befell Lyon in the meantime. During the French Republic, the city supported Girondists. It took Jacobins two months of siege to break Lyon’s resistance and proclaim it an open city. During World War II, a wide spread resistance movement, le Mouvement de la Résistance, was conceived as early as 1940. The newspaper Combat was printed here and secretly distributed all over the country. Lyon thus became the source, and the military, intelligence and intellectual centre of struggle against German occupation. When there was no warfare and destruction, Lyon worked and prospered. The history of silk weaving in Lyon started during the Renaissance period on the shores of the Saône. The industry’s tradition spanned

over five centuries and comprised all the stages in the silk production process, from growing mulberry trees and silk worms, spinning thread and weaving it, to creating patterns, applying finishes and selling finished products. The industry flourished during the reign of Louis XIV when the Versailles court fashion became the order of the day in all other European courts. At that time, everything started and finished with silk from Lyon. The silk industry saw its heyday in the 18th century, during the reign of Empress Joséphine who had no fewer than two hundred dresses made every year. Her fashion style influenced all the French ladies who could afford to follow it. For centuries, silk was manufactured on draw looms until the moment when a true revolution took the city by storm in the early 19th century. By inventing the first programmable mechanical loom with punched cards, Joseph-Marie Jacquard spearheaded the mass production of patterned silk and the Lyon silk industry experienced a new boom. At one time, nearly 3000 Jacquard looms were in full swing in the city. Political and religious wars and revolutions sometimes slowed down production but never brought it to a standstill, unlike the viruses and fungi that spread in the mid-19th century, affecting the entire population of silk worms in the country and bringing the silk-making industry down to its knees. Interestingly enough, at the same time mulberry trees and silk worms were being grown and silk fabric was being produced in Croatia, particularly in Dalmatia. By the beginning of the 20th century, over three million mulberry trees had been planted in Dalmatia. Nevertheless, Bunjevci women and other Croatian ladies from Vojvodina, who made their own attires, featuring branch and flower shaped velvet decorations, obtained silks and shiny and smooth atlas fabrics straight from Lyon, although just one folk costume easily consumed six metres of expensive fabrics. New man-made materials dealt a final blow to the Lyon silk industry which was already in agony. Despite attempts made after World War II to revive silk production, silk is nowadays manufactured in very small quantities, only for haute couture. The not-to-be-missed attractions in Lyon are its traboules, the famous covered passageways between blocks of buildings. The thirty or so of them currently open to visitors are veritable jewels in terms of their aesthetic and historical value. Their entrances are not easy to spot; traboules are often hidden behind the most ordinary gates, not dissimilar to gates leading to palaces and their courtyards. However, a notice on a gate asking you to respect the peace and private property is a clear sign that inside is a shortcut to another street which CROATIA AIRLINES

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you can take instead of skirting an entire city block. Most of the traboules are unlocked between 7 a.m. and 7 p.m. To compensate residents for their trouble of allowing passage to citizens and tourists, the Lyon city authorities bear their maintenance, cleaning and lighting costs. Once you open one of the labelled gates, you will start feeling like an explorer who has permission to inspect a jealously safeguarded treasure. Most of these passages are in Old Lyon (Vieux Lyon) between the buildings on Croix Rousse. It is believed that the ﬁrst traboules were constructed in the 4th century to allow the inhabitants of Lugdunum easier access to the River Saône. The tradition continued when unhindered passage was needed by silk tradesmen who descended from Lyon hills hauling long bundles of silk to the river and the centre of Lyon. The network of secret passages was also useful for the Resistance Movement during the German occupation of the city. Many a Gestapo soldier must have been gaping in surprise at the sudden disappearance of a fugitive who was as good as caught. Or so they thought. It is believed that there are around four hundred traboules in Lyon all together, but most of them are offlimits to the general public. Some, however, have been restored to the last detail, and the thirty or so that are open to visitors now delight with their spiralled staircases, manicured inner courtyards, domes, portals, arched ceilings, loggias and galleries à l’italienne. Another one of Lyon’s spectacular idiosyncrasies are its trompe l’oeil murals, humorous, artistically painted optical illusions depicting a range of scenes: a small door or a grand staircase which invite you to continue your stroll. Only when you come closer to them you realize that they are no more than a painted wall. Sometimes, a man on the balcony will tirelessly point in the direction you should take, another one will be descending a non-existing staircase with his family, the third one will be standing in front of an ATM, taking money out of it. Neither the man nor the ATM is real, still many a passer-by will cross the street fully intent on inserting their own bank card and withdrawing money. One of the artistically painted murals is the Fresco of the Lyonnais People which covers an entire building, all seven ﬂoors of it, and depicts famous citizens of Lyon, including Paul Bocuse, the martyr St. Blandina, the Roman Emperor Claudius, designer Guignol Laurent Mourguet, Auguste and Louis Lumière and many others. The project to decorate the insipid walls started in the 70s. The underlying idea was to revive and refresh a somewhat oppressive industrial image of the city. Several decades later, these murals bear 102

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Festival zvuËnih noÊi/ Nuits Sonores Festival

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witness to the city’s modern and joyous spirit and − fancy that − not a single graffiti in sight. Guignol, the famous French puppet theatre, which bears the name of its main character, the hand puppet Guignol, was conceived in Lyon 200 years ago. One-time street performances were inspired by the grave position of the silk industry workers, and continued being performed all over the country offering a satirical view of every bad policy, either in the city or in the state. The puppet Guignol was the first social commentator, famous for its wit and sharp tongue, and his clashes with the police often ended up in comic stick fighting. Today, Guignol is a well-liked family pastime, and marionettes have become popular souvenirs. On the map of the world, Lyon is sometimes highlighted as the birth place of the seventh art. In 1895, two close-knit brothers, Auguste and Louis Lumière, invented a cinematograph which enabled the projection of movies; the first film camera with all the functions in one device. The camera recorded and processed the film and also served as a projection device, so films could be watched by many people, unlike Edison’s Kinetoscope which was designed for films to be viewed by one individual at a time. Today, their villa in the heart of Lyon, an interesting piece of architecture in its own right, houses the Museum Lumière where you can see the first films ever made in the world, the three forty-second-long versions of the legendary Workers Leaving the Lumière Factory, as well as The Arrival of a Train at La Ciotat Station. The story goes that the inexperienced premiere audience was so overwhelmed by the image of a locomotive coming directly at them that people ran from the projection room fearing that the train would run over them. The brothers also made the first and the shortest film comedy, The Sprinkler Sprinkled. The trick they filmed in it was often repeated in subsequent slapstick comedies. The main character is a family gardener who is watering the vegetable plots. A little rascal steps on his watering hose and when the confused gardener looks at the tip of his hose to check why it has suddenly gone dry, the rascal lifts off his foot and… the rest is history. With its squares, kilometres of promenades along the perfectly manicured banks of the two rivers, and with its well preserved ancient monuments and the intact medieval and renaissance nucleus, which constitutes the second biggest renaissance city after Venice, and having been spared building development vandalism, Lyon is, quite deservedly, classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But it is not just its history that makes Lyon a pretty city; its exceptional heritage is fur104

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ther enhanced by the signature creations of contemporary architects which adorn its outskirts, like the modern Confluence neighbourhood where Jean Nouvel and many others have made their mark. For hundreds of years, the confluence of the two rivers had been given over to docks, but the area is currently undergoing a radical change. New housing projects with parks and green surfaces, marinas, shopping centres, restaurants and commercial buildings showcase the full array of achievements in contemporary architecture. The Peninsula, a long tip of land protruding into the area between the two water courses all the way to their confluence, features the two biggest squares − Place Bellecour with its cafes, shops, monuments to Louis XIV and Saint Exupery sporting a pilot’s cap and a figure of the Little Prince behind him; and Place des Terreaux with the imposing City Hall, the little Louvre − Museum of Fine Arts, and the magnificent Bartholdi’s Fountain depicting four horses reined by Marianne, the symbol of France. There is also the cathedral with spectacular stained glass windows and an astronomical clock, the funicular which leads from there to the Basilica of Notre Dame de Fourvière, replete with golden ornaments and mosaics and commanding a fantastic view of the city. You can also find the Tête d’Or Park with botanical and zoological gardens − one of the largest parks in Europe. Lyon is a vibrant economic centre where several international fairs are held every year; it has a congress centre, and it has a railway and road hub with a modern airport bearing the name of Saint Exupery, who else… It is a centre of the banking, software, pharmaceutical and biotechnological industries, the seat of Interpol and Euronews, as well as the Intercultural Cities programme of the European Commission. An entrepreneur from Dubai took such a liking to Lyon that he decided to develop his own version of Lyon, together with streets and squares, restaurants, cinema halls and schools in his own city, on a footprint of 400,000 hectares. His objective was not only to copy the physical image of Lyon but also to transfer the atmosphere of the pulsating city and French culture to it. In addition to apartments, offices and hotels, Lyon − Dubai City is envisaged to have a cooking academy headed by the Paul Bocuse Institute, a film library, even a football training centre, modelled after Lyon’s Olympique. It should be noted that the businessman from Dubai is not the only person enamoured with Lyon, and to put it simply: everybody who has ever visited it wants to return. It is up to you to check out why. ■

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■ UMJETNOST ART

Piše/By Anelka MustapiÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Romeo IbriševiÊ

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Sretna okolnost u cijeloj priËi o vrtoglavom uspjehu Zlatana VehaboviÊa, 31-godiπnjeg ZagrepËanina s uspomenama na Banju Luku kao dio obiteljske povijesti, moæda je ta πto je pogodio senzibilitet umjetniËke javnosti, publike kojoj je blizak njegov svemir, koja se diljem svijeta okreÊe sebi i traæi smisao vlastite egzistencije i odgovore na sva ona univerzalna pitanja (tko smo?, πto smo?, zaπto smo?). The fortunate circumstance in the whirlwind success story of Zlatan VehaboviÊ, a 31 year old painter with a Zagreb address who cherishes souvenirs of Banja Luka as part of his family history, may be the fact that he tapped into the sensibility of artistic audiences the world over; audiences who ﬁnd his universe close to their hearts, people who turn to themselves while pondering the meaning of their own existence and looking for answers to the universal questions (Who are we? What are we? Why are we?).

remda ga svrstavaju meu pripadnike novoga hrvatskoga realistiËnog slikarstva (realizma suvremenog æivota) ∑ sa statusom zvijezde, Zlatan VehaboviÊ ne osjeÊa neku ËvrπÊu vezu s tom odrednicom, niti se moæe poistovjetiti s cijelim slikarskim pokretom. Njegov realizam nastao je, kako sam naglaπava, viπe kao posljedica njegova istraæivanja naËina i moguÊnosti prenoπenja priËe u sliku, πto ga je na kraju dovelo ili uvelo u ﬁguraciju i realizam, i to u vrijeme kad je takvo slikarstvo bilo nepopularno u njegovoj generaciji i, πtoviπe, smatralo se subverzivnim. VehaboviÊeva slikarska poetika, tehnika, tematika i kolorizam, napokon, i njegov stav da slikarstvo uvijek treba imati konkretan razlog (zaπto slikati, kakve teme odabrati, kakve slike slikati…), i, napose, njegovo zanimanje za intimno, unutarnje, individualno, za svemir psihe koji je graen od emocija, misli i stavova, kako je jednom prigodom rekao, pa i perspektiva iz kojih slika, nadahnut nekom starom fotograﬁjom, nekim stihom, nekim zvuËnim naslovom…, koji su mu bitni kao stvaralaËka provokacija, rezultirali su tzv. subjektivistiËkim realizmom i zavidnom pozicijom u europskim slikarskim centrima i u Americi. Sretna okolnost u cijeloj priËi o vrtoglavom uspjehu Zlatana VehaboviÊa, 31-godiπnjeg ZagrepËanina s uspomenama na Banju Luku kao dio obiteljske povijesti, moæda je ta πto je pogodio senzibilitet umjetniËke javnosti, publike kojoj je blizak njegov svemir, koja se diljem svijeta okreÊe sebi i traæi smisao vlastite egzistencije i odgovore na sva ona univerzalna pitanja (tko smo?, πto smo?, zaπto smo?) i, povrh svega toga, kao imperativ ∑ doæivljaj ljepote, πto je zapravo temelj s kojega VehaboviÊ polazi u svakom svom ciklusu. Na veÊ spomenute referencije i priznati status zvijezde u Hrvatskoj, vaænijim europskim gradovima i u Americi, VehaboviÊ reagira samo naoko bezazleno: ∑ Super, ali može se tu joπ mnogo napraviti, ne treba se zavaravati. Uza svaku dobru sliku veæe

se i rintanje. Nema viπe onog mita o slikarima kao o nekim boemima koji glavinjaju po svijetu i traæe inspiraciju. Svaki dan moram u atelijeru raditi osam sati, jer slikanje je posao kao i svaki drugi. Za svaku sliku moram imati vrlo Ëvrstu motivaciju, moram znati zaπto je radim i πto Êu s njom, i svaku sliku radim kao da je posljednja koju Êu naslikati. To je jedini naËin koji omoguÊava, vjerujem, da umjetnik i nakon deset godina moæe s ponosom pogledati ono πto je naslikao. ©to se tiËe uspjeha, mora se tu poklopiti mnogo stvari, da bi se bilo πto dogodilo. ObiËno jedna stvar vodi drugoj. Nitko me neÊe otkriti, nazvati me i reÊi: Evo, æivot ti je promijenjen. Tako je i moj galerist u Americi jedna od milijun stavki koje se dogaaju u mom æivotu. Niπta mi nije manje bitno djelovanje ovdje u Hrvatskoj. VehaboviÊ je slikar ciklusa od tri, Ëetiri, sedam ili devet slika, koliko ih ima njegov posljednji, najopseæniji ciklus Prokleta posada, koji je poslije odræavanja u zagrebaËkoj Laubi ∑ kuÊi za umjetnost i ljude predstavljen u uglednoj njujorπkoj galeriji Marc Straus, koju je na Manhattanu pod svojim imenom otvorio ugledni galerist i kolekcionar. Na jednoj od prethodnih VehaboviÊevih izloæbi u svojoj galeriji, Straus je zadivljeno tumaËio posjetiteljima kako VehaboviÊ diskretno i s distancijom secira amplitude danaπnjeg druπtva upozoravajuÊi na svoj umjetniËki naËin da joπ ni danas humanistiËki principi nisu zaboravljeni. ∑ Ciklus Prokleta posada inspiriran je istoimenom pjesmom πkotskog pjesnika Owena Handa, posveÊenoj kitolovcu o Ëijem æivotu govori njegova æena ∑ objasnio je VehaboviÊ prije odlaska u Ameriku. ∑ Naslov je vrlo zvuËan i predstavlja poetiËnu dimenziju priËe, ali ne objaπnjava puno πto mi tu toËno gledamo, on je kao neka smjernica, tako da je ciklus viπe u vezi sa mnom nego s konkretnom pjesmom, slike viπe govore o nekim mojim slikarskim problemima, razmiπljanjima o vizualizaciji umjet-

nosti opÊenito. BuduÊi da sam veliki zaljubljenik pustolovina, priËa o kitolovcu bila mi je zanimljiva s tog stajaliπta, kao pustolovina, zatim zbog romantiËnog prizvuka toga razdvojenoga ljubavnog para i, treÊe, povukao sam paralelu izmeu te romantiËne komponente i svog zanimanja, koje je izolirano u prostoru, takoer je samotniËko i nema pretjerano veze s vanjskim svijetom, s kulturom koju æivimo svaki dan. OkidaË za cijeli ciklus bila je stara fotograﬁja koju sam naπao u National Geographicu a predoËuje neku viπestoljetnu signalizaciju za brodove, koja mi se uËinila zgodnom za kompariranje pozicije æene koja je na kopnu i njezina muæa u posadi, koja, opet, malim svjetiljkama osvjetljava djeliÊ otvorenoga i nepreglednog mora. Ideja mi je bila uprizoriti nekakav strah, tjeskobu, paniku, ali jednako tako i odreenu ljepotu koju takav prizor ima. To su zapravo dvije potrebe koje su u mojim radovima konstante: i u teπkim trenucima pronalaziti trenutke ljepote! Osim Proklete posade, centralne slike po kojoj je dobio ime cijeli ciklus (posadu tvore Ëetiri VehaboviÊeva autoportreta, πto je rjeπenje iznueno tehniËkim prilikama (po VehaboviÊevu tumaËenju lakπe je raditi sam sa sobom, nego inscenirati i slikati u studiju potrebnu situaciju), veliËanstvene su joπ dvije slike, tj. dva zasebna VehaboviÊeva autoportreta, dakako, u funkciji priËe o kitolovcu, kao i dvije slike sa po jednim uginulim kitom, koje je VehaboviÊ naslikao da bi naglasio monumentalnost i veliËanstvenost te æivotinja, makar i kao leπinu, a ne zbog ekoloπkog pozicioniranja i djelovanja. − Zanimaju me vrijednosti koje spoznajemo kroz æivot, a koje su univerzalne, koje nisu striktno vezane za ovu civilizaciju u kojoj æivimo. Tema kojom se rado bavim i koju smatram najveÊom temom u povijesti cjelokupne umjetnosti jest tema meuljudskih veza, odnosa, odnosno ljubav. Moje su slike pune naracije i mojih osobnih priËa i svaka za sebe govori neku moju epizodu, ali koju svaki Ëovjek tijekom CROATIA AIRLINES

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æivota uglavnom doæivi: od osobe koju, unatoË æarkoj æelji, nikada nismo uspjeli osvojiti, pa tinja u nama kako nekakav duh, do ljubavnog para, koji ne uspijeva ostvariti komunikaciju, i slomljenog srca, kojemu mudrim savjetima ne mogu pomoÊi Ëak ni najodaniji prijatelji. Fasciniraju me i povijesne priËe o pustolovima, zbog obrasca hrabrosti i izdræljivosti, kao πto je priËa o prvim osvajaËima Mount Everesta, kojima sam posvetio jedan ciklus, ili priËa o polarnom istraæivaËu Ernestu Shackeltonu, koji me nadahnuo da kroz ciklus Zauvijek Êu te pamtiti odgonetnem, da tako kaæem, kako bilo tko na ovome svijetu postaje kulturoloπki bitan i poznat. Glavna teza Zlatana VehaboviÊa jest da je umjetnost produkt uma i na taj se naËin jedino moæe percipirati. Iskreno Êe i lako priznati da ga je strah moguÊnosti da ne radi neπto πto je realno i egzistencijalno nuæno. Pogotovo kad se nae u tramvaju s ljudima koji rintaju da preæive. Zato tako Ëvrsto gradi konstrukciju svojih slika i ciklusa. I æeli, dakako, raditi kontinuirano. Napominje da umjetnost mora pridonositi, ma πto god to znaËilo. Ali nema konaËnu viziju. O ideji da napravi neπto πto Êe moæda ostati, ne usuuje se Ëak ni pomisliti. A upravo je to pravo lice treperavih talenata, uzburkanih, koji se stalno propitkuju, iako su veÊ stvorili djela bitna za njih i za umjetnost kojom se bave. Zlatan VehaboviÊ je takav: veliki slikar, kako ga se god gleda. n

lthough being classified among the new realists in Croatian painting (the realism of real life) and enjoying a star status in that, Zlatan VehaboviÊ does not feel a strong attachment to that determinant, nor can he identify himself with an entire movement in painting. According to him, his realism is a consequence of his own research into various possibilities and ways of transforming a story into a painting, a process which ultimately brought him or, rather, introduced him to figuration and realism at a time when that was quite unpopular among his peers. More to the point, it was considered subversive. VehaboviÊ’s artistic poetics, technique, themes and colourism, his view that the art of painting must always have a specific raison d’être (why paint, what motifs to chose, what kind of paintings to paint...) and particularly his interest in all things intimate, inner, individual, in the universe of the mind which is made of emotions, thoughts and views, as he himself said on one occasion, and even the perspectives from which he paints as he finds inspiration in an old photograph, a verse, or a resonant title, have brought him to the so-called subjectivist realism and the enviable position he now 108

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occupies in European painting centres and in the States. The fortunate circumstance in the whirlwind success story of Zlatan VehaboviÊ, a 31 year old painter with a Zagreb address who cherishes souvenirs of Banja Luka as part of his family history, may be the fact that he tapped into the sensibility of artistic audiences the world over; audiences who ﬁnd his universe close to their hearts, people who turn to themselves while pondering the meaning of their own existence and looking for answers to the universal questions (Who are we? What are we? Why are we?). On top of that there is an imperative − the experience of beauty as the foundation on which VehaboviÊ stands before embarking upon every new cycle. VehaboviÊ’s reaction to the aforementioned references and the recognized star status he enjoys in Croatia, the more important European cities and in the States is only seemingly innocuous: − It’s all well and dandy, but there is a lot more to it than that, one should not delude oneself. There is a lot of hard graft behind every painting. The myth about painters as some sort of bohemians who roam the world looking for inspiration is long gone. I have to spend eight hours a day working in my atelier because painting is a job, just like any other. I have to be strongly driven before I start painting; I have to know why I am painting and what I am going to do with the painting when it’s done. And I approach every single painting as if it were the last one I will ever do. I believe that this is the only way a painter can be proud of what he has created, even ten years later. As for the matter of success, a lot of things have to come together before anything can happen. Usually, one thing leads to another. Nobody is going to discover me, call me and tell me: Here you have it; your life is now completely changed. My gallerist in America has been just one in a myriad of happenings in my life. My activity here in Croatia is no less important to me. VehaboviÊ is a painter whose cycles consist of three, four or seven paintings. His last and most extensive body of works, titled Prokleta Posada (Cursed Crew), consisted of nine paintings. After having been displayed in Zagreb’s Lauba − the People and Art House, it moved to the prestigious Marc Straus Gallery which the well known gallerist and collector had opened in Manhattan, New York under his own name. During one of VehaboviÊ’s previous exhibitions in his gallery, Straus enthusiastically explained to the visitors that, Discreetly and from a distance, VehaboviÊ dissects amplitudes of modern-day society and reminds people, in his own artistic way, that humanist principles are not forgotten.

− The cycle Cursed Crew was inspired by the poem My Donal by the Scottish bard, Owen Hand, who had dedicated the poem to a seaman working on the sea fishing whales and it was told from his wife’s perspective, VehaboviÊ explained before his departure for the States. − The title is quite reverberant and represents the poetic dimension of the story but does not reveal much about what exactly goes on: it serves as a mere guideline and the cycle is more about me than the specific poem. The paintings speak more about some of the problems I face while I paint and about reflections on visualisation and art in general. Being a great fan of adventure, I found the whaler story intriguing from that point of view, as an adventure and also as a source of romantic resonance that reverberates between the separated lovers. Last but not least, I drew a parallel between the romantic component in the poem and my own profession which is isolated in space, equally solitary and offers little contact with the external world and the culture we live in. The trigger for the entire cycle was an old photo I found in an issue of National Geographic depicting a centuries-old ships’ signals system. I thought that it would be quite seemly to compare the positions of a woman ashore and her seafaring husband, while these little lanterns shed light on a part of the open and unfathomable sea. The idea was to conjure up feelings of fear, anxiety, panic, but at the same time to instil a certain measure of beauty inherent to this kind of a scene. These are actually the two needs which constantly permeate my work: revealing moments of beauty in the hardest of times! − Besides Cursed Crew, the centrepiece which gave the name to the entire cycle (the crew are four of VehaboviÊ’s self portraits, a solution that imposed itself through technical necessity − ac-

cording to VehaboviÊ, it is easier to work with oneself than to stage and paint a requisite situation in a studio), there are two other magnificent paintings, i.e. two separate self-portraits of VehaboviÊ, which work well within the whaler story, as well as two other paintings, each depicting a dead whale. VehaboviÊ painted them in order to emphasise the monumentality and magnificence of the animal, even when it is no more than a carcass, and not to express his ecological position or advocate action. − I am interested in the values that every one of us acquires throughout life. They are universal, rather than strictly tied to the particular civilization we belong to. A topic which I treasure and consider most important for the entire history of art is the topic of human relations, i.e. love. My paintings are replete with narration and my personal stories. Each of them tells an episode from my own life which nearly everybody can relate to as being their own. One of them is about a person whom we are never able to call ours despite our fervent attempts to win them over, and that person flitters like a ghost inhabiting our being. Other stories are about a couple who love each other but fail to establish communication; or a broken heart that even the most loyal friends’ wise advice is unable to mend. I am fascinated by stories about daredevils from our past; there is a pattern of courage and endurance to all of them, for example, the story of the first conqueror of Mt. Everest to whom I dedicated a cycle, or the story of the polar explorer Ernest Shackelton, whose life inspired me for the cycle I shall Always Remember You, through which I tried to devise, as it were, how just about anybody in this world can become important for our culture and globally famous. Zlatan VehaboviÊ’s main thesis is that art is a product of the mind and this is the only way it

can be perceived. He will admit honestly and matter-of-factly that he frets a situation where he would not be doing something real or existentially necessary, especially when he ﬁnds himself riding on a tram together with people who toil to survive. That is why he insists on a strong construction in his paintings and cycles. And obviously, he wants to go on working. He says that art needs to make a contribution, whatever that may mean. But he does not have a ﬁnal vision. He does not even dare dream about the possibility of leaving behind something that will outlive him. And this is precisely the true face of vibrant and restless talents who constantly re-examine themselves although they have already created works that matter both to them and to their art. And this is what Zlatan VehaboviÊ is: a great painter, whichever way you look at him. n

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AMBER VALETTA, magazine Harper’s Bazaar, December 1993

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FOTOGRAFIJA PHOTOGRAPHY ■

Ovaj njemaËki fotograf poljskih korijena promijenio je svojim pristupom viziju fotografske umjetnosti dajuÊi potpuno novo znaËenje crno-bijeloj fotograﬁji, naglaπavajuÊi æensku ljepotu kao pokretaËa svih svojih ideja i stvarajuÊi nove modne trendove… The German photographer of Polish descent changed the vision of photographic art with his approach, and he gave a completely new meaning to black and white photography; he emphasised female beauty as the generator of all of his ideas and he created new fashion trends…

Piše/By PRiredba Fotograﬁja/Photo Peter Lindbergh

osljednjih nekoliko godina Zagreb je u svim svojim segmentima postao europska metropola uz bok BeËu, Pragu, Parizu, Berlinu, Londonu te svim veÊim i utjecajnijim europskim gradovima. Upravo je zato danas Zagreb sve poæeljnije turistiËko odredište te ga zato mnogi svrstavaju meu najljepπe i najpristupaËnije gradove u svijetu. Zato ne Ëudi πto je upravo Zagreb kao svoju sljedeÊu izloæbenu postaju izabrao i Peter Lindbergh, jedan od najuglednijih svjetskih fotografa i neprijeporan vizionar modne fotograﬁje. U Lindberghovoj izloæbi ne bi bilo niËega Ëudnoga da svoju posljednju izloæbu u ovom dijelu Europe nije odræao joπ davne 1998. godine u BeËu. Stoga je njegova izloæba, koja Êe biti otvorena 7. travnja 2014. u Domu Hrvatskog druπtva likovnih umjetnika (mnogima poznatijem kao mjesto gdje se nekada nalazila prva zagrebaËka dæamija), veliki uspjeh agencije PRiredbe kao glavnog organizatora tog zbivanja, a sigurni smo i jedan od najznaËajnijih kulturno-umjetniËkih

dogaaja u 2014. godini. U ovome jedinstvenom zdanju u središtu Zagreba, koje dominira svojom vizurom kako interijera tako i eksterijera, svi ljubitelji vrhunske umjetnosti i crno-bijele fotograﬁje moÊi Êe uæivati do 10. svibnja i saznati zaπto Lindbergha smatraju jednim od najveÊih fotografa danaπnjice. A kako to obiËno biva s velikim umjetnicima, njihovi æivotni putovi isprepleteni su mnogim nelogiËnostima, rekli bismo ﬁ lmskim scenarijima, pa tako ni Lindberghov æivot nisu zaobiπle mnoge kontroverzije, veliki uspjesi, priznanja i glamur koji prati rad svih najveÊih umjetnika danaπnjice. Peter Lindbergh roen je 1944. godine u poljskom gradu Leszno, a veÊ godinu dana poslije, nakon zavrπetka Drugoga svjetskog rata, s obitelji se seli u NjemaËku. ©kolovanje napuπta s nepunih 15 godina i seli se u ©vicarsku traæeÊi zanimanje i posao koji bi mu donijeli zaradu, ali i izgradili ga kao osobu. Nakon osam mjeseci rada u ©vicarskoj kao ureivaË izloga, 1961. godine odluËio se

preseliti u Berlin te doπkolovati na berlinskoj Likovnoj akademiji. Prvu samostalnu izloæbu kao slikar Lindbergh je imao u Düsseldorfu u galeriji Denise Rene pokazavπi svoj talent i izrazitu povezanost s umjetnoπÊu. Ipak u kasnima dvadesetima i ranima tridesetima Lindbergh se sreo s fotoaparatom i u tom trenutku zapravo poËinje njegov uspon i upoznavanje s fotograﬁjom i svim Ëarima fotografskog posla. Tako 1971. godine poËinje raditi kao asistent poznatom njemaËkom fotografu Hansu Luxu, a veÊ 1973. s nepunih 30 godina otvara vlastiti fotografski studio u Düsseldorfu i poËinje raditi kao komercijalni fotograf forsirajuÊi crno bijelu fotograﬁju kao fokus svog rada. Vjerojatno tada nitko nije mogao ni slutiti da Êe upravo Lindbergh postati jedan od najuglednijih modnih fotografa, koji svoj ugled nikada nije stjecao kroz trend ili stil nego kroz veliËanje æenske ljepote, πto je i sam objasnio za Independent 1997. godine: Æena je uvijek vaænija od odjeÊe koju nosi. Svoje prve ozCROATIA AIRLINES

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Fotograﬁja iz opusa The Unknown/ Photo from the opus of The Unknown

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biljnije umjetniËke fotografije Lindbergh je snimio za magazin Twen 1977., a godinu dana poslije, sa 17 stranica modne priËe za utjecajni njemaËki Stern, otvorio vrata vrhunskoj modnoj fotografiji, predstavivπi se Europi i svijetu u najboljemu moguÊem svjetlu. Uspjeh u Sternu nagnao ga je na selidbu u Pariz, gdje poËinje raditi za najutjecajnije magazine i europska izdanja Voguea, The New Yorkera i Rolling Stonea. Veliki uspjeh i fotografije na naslovnicama kao da su zasitile Lindbergha te u velikom intervjuu 1980.

godine on govori o prezasiÊenosti kiËem i glamurom tog vremena i donosi odluku da neÊe raditi za modne magazine. Njegovu odluku promijenio je razgovor s tada legendarnim urednikom Alexanderom Libermanom, koji mu je dao priliku da predstavi svoju viziju i fotografiju æene pruæajuÊi mu moguÊnost da se izrazi ne samo fotografijom, nego rijeËju, mislima koje su se dugo skupljale u njemu, a kojima je æelio ispriËati vaænost i ljepotu svoje crno-bijele fotografije. Bio je to zapravo poËetak, odskoËna daska koja je Lindbergha

lansirala u fotografske besmrtnike. Vrhunac njegova fotografskog izriËaja bilo je snimanje naslovnice za izdanje magazina Vogue u studenom 1988. godine, za koji ga je osobno angaæirala urednica modnog magazina Anna Wintour. Prilika da ponovno snima za Vogue pružila mu se 1990., kad snima crno-bijelu naslovnicu britanskog izdanja Vogue s Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Tatjanom Patiz, Christi Turlington i Lindom Evangelistom, koju i danas smatraju jednom od najboljih naslovnica modnih magazina. O Lindberghu su raspravljali mnogi, a kustosica Charlotte Cotton u magazinu The Observer opisuje ga kao umjetnika koji svojim spontanim idejama unosi ljepotu u do tada monoton crno-bijeli svijet fotografije. Njegove fotografije donose revoluciju i potpuno drugaËiji pogled na neke od najljepπih æena toga vremena. Lindbergh je oduπevljavao svojom jednostavnoπÊu, a set na kojemu je snimao uvijek je bio jednostavan, skroman, odjeÊa nepretenciozna, sa æeljom da se uvijek naglasi prirodna ljepota æene. Upravo potkraj 80-ih godina, upotrebom svoga minimalistiËkog pristupa i stavljanjem modela u središte paænje i same fotografije, Lindbergh je zapravo poËeo trend fascinacije supermodelima, koja traje i danas. Lindbergh je kao svestrani umjetnik 1991. godine predstavio i svoj prvi dugometraæni dokumentarac Models, nakon Ëega slijede godine velikih uspjeha i priznanja za njegov rad i doprinos fotografskoj umjetnosti. Godine 1996. postaje Ëlan njemaËkoga umjetniËkog kluba, snima svoj prvi kalendar za Pirelli te postaje glavni snimatelj spota za pjesmu Missing You Tine Turner. Jedan od najpoznatijih svjetskih modnih dizajnera Karl Lagerfeld izjavio je poslije, 1996. godine, za Lindbergha: Vizija njegove æene uvijek je odraz sadaπnjosti, ali i u isto vrijeme vjeËna, Ëak i na fotografijama nagih æena uvijek lice ima glavnu ulogu. U poËetku 1997. godine Lindberghova izloæba Images of Women održana je u berlinskome muzeju Bahnhof, nakon Ëega slijede Hamburg, Rim, Milano, BeË, Moskva i Tokio. Lindbergh je uspjeπno sudjelovao i u filmskoj umjetnosti pa tako njegov tridesetominutni dokumentarac Inner Voices pobjeuje na ITTC-u, meunarodnom filmskom festivalu u Torontu. Wim Wenders, jedan od najcjenjenijih i najboljih njemaËkih filmskih redatelja, fotograf i profesor za film na Visokoj πkoli za slikovne umjetnosti u Hamburgu, o Lindberghu je pisao za knjigu Stories: Mogu se diviti njegovim slikama, zgraæavati, æudjeti ili biti zapanjen, ali kao fotografije one su joπ i sada dio naπega suvremenog svemira. Bez obzira na to koliko se divili tim slikama, ono πto je najvaænije jest

Fotograﬁja iz opusa The Unknown/ Photo from the opus of The Unknown Peter Lindbergh by Stefan Rappo

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Fotograﬁja iz opusa The Unknown/ Photo from the opus of The Unknown

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to da ih moæemo ‘razumjeti’. Ljepota æena ispred Peterova objektiva nama je poznata, vidjeli smo te æene u nekom drugom kontekstu, u drugoj odjeÊi, s drugom πminkom, ali nikada to nije bilo to, samo on zna æenu na fotograﬁ ji iznova pokazati posebnom i drugaËijom. On je njeæan Ëovjek, gospodin za fotoobjektivom, Ëija se duπa vidi u svim njegovim slikama, jer sve πto radi, radi kako samo on to zna. Lindbergh 2005. osvaja Lucie, nagradu za dostignuÊa u modnoj fotograﬁ ji, 2009. na

120 stranica ispriËao je priËu o Berlinu za 30. obljetnicu njemaËkog magazina Vogue, πto mu je donijelo nominaciju za nagradu Lead, najuglednije svjetsko fotografsko priznanje. U Vogue se vraÊa nakon punih 18 godina i 2010. snima editorijal Magniﬁcent Obssesion s modelom Natalijom Vodianovom i glumcem Ewanom McGregorom. UzimajuÊi sve s odmakom i duboko zavirujuÊi u njegovu karijeru, nema sumnje da je Peter Lindbergh uveo novi pravac u fotograﬁji, novi realizam, nove ideje, pravac koji govori o

promjenama i drugaËijem pristupu modi, a opet sve to ne znaËi da se njegovoj doprinos modnoj povijesti zaustavlja na fenomenu supermodela, nego, naprotiv, modi je dao dimenziju koja je i danas zrcalo uspjeπnosti i sputanosti. Zasluæan je za estetiku mode koja dominira devedesetim godinama, njegov minimalistiËki pristup odrazio se na tadaπnje propagandne poruke, modne revije i razvoj modne scene opÊenito, a njegove ideje i danas su putokaz mnogim priznatim modnim fotografima. PriËa o razvoju fotografije Petera Lindbergha ujedno je priËa o revoluciji æena u svijetu mode. A πto Lindbergh oËekuje od svoje izloæbe i πto Êe imati priliku vidjeti svi oni koji posjete izloæbu toga osebujnog umjetnika najbolje Êe objasniti njegove rijeËi: Ono πto æelimo pokazati na izloæbi u Zagrebu mjeπavina je izloæbi Images of Women, kojoj je glavni cilj prikazati fotografi je iz 80-ih i 90-ih, koje su u to doba definirale æenstvenost, i serija fotografija The Unknown koja predstavlja ‘nepoznato’ − ljudska biÊa izloæena prijetnjama koje im u tom trenutku nisu uopÊe poznate... a sve je zapravo fikcija. A za ljubitelje filma, pokretne slike u velikoj okrugloj sobi bit Êe zanimljiva projekcija koja prikazuje susret s nepoznatim. Siguran sam da Êe svatko pronaÊi svoj trenutak, svoj kutak, i, vjerujem, uæivati u mojoj viziji mode i ljepote. n

ver the past few years, Zagreb has be come a tr ue Europe an metropolis in all of its segments − side by side with Vienna, Prague, Paris, Berlin, London and all the other major and inﬂuential European cities. This is precisely why Zagreb has become an increasingly desirable tourist destination and why many rank it among the most beautiful and most accessible cities in the world. Therefore, it is not surprising that Zagreb was chosen as the venue for the next exhibition by Peter Lindbergh, one of the most respectable world photographers and an indisputable visionary of fashion photography. There would be nothing surprising in the fact that Lindbergh’s work will be exhibited in Zagreb if it did not come so long after his last exhibition in this part of Europe − in Vienna in 1998. That is why his exhibition, which will open on April 7th 2014 in the exhibition space of the Croatian Association of Visual Artists (known to many as the site of the ﬁrst mosque in Zagreb), is a major success on the part of the agency PRiredbe, the main organizer of the event which will certainly

be one of the most important cultural and artistic events in 2014. In this unique edifice in the centre of Zagreb, which commands respect with both its interior as well as its exterior, all lovers of the most exquisite art and black and white photography will be able to enjoy the exhibit until May 10 th and learn why Lindbergh is considered one of the greatest photographers of today. Very often, the life journeys of great artists are conundrums of many illogical developments, comparable to film scripts, and Lindbergh’s is no exception. It has not been devoid of the controversies, major successes, recognitions and glamour which garnish the lives of the greatest artists of today. Peter Lindbergh was born in 1944 in the Polish town of Leszno. Only a year later, after the end of World War II, he moved to Germany with his family. He left school before the age of 15 and moved to Switzerland in search of an occupation and a job both lucrative and conducive to his growth as a person. He worked for eight months as a window dresser and then, in 1961, he decided to move to Berlin and continue his education at the Berlin Academy of Arts. He exhibited his work for the first time at the Gallery Denise René in Düsseldorf where he displayed his talent and strong connection with art. In his late twenties and early thirties he discovered a photographic camera. As he became more familiar with photography and the delights of the photographic profession, his artistic expression gained momentum. In 1971, he started working as the assistant to the well known German photographer Hans Lux, and already in 1973, before the age of 30, he opened his own photographic studio in Düsseldorf and worked as a commercial photographer. His main interest was black and white photography, which he pushed as his main artistic agenda. At that time, no one would have predicted he was on a trajectory that would bring him to the top of the fashion industry and that he would never attempt to build his reputation by following current trends or styles, but rather by paying tribute to female beauty. For Lindbergh, it has never been style that brought out his best work. As he explained to London’s Independent in 1997, The woman is always more important than the clothes. Lindbergh published his fi rst serious art photos in 1977 in Twen magazine, and a year later he introduced himself to Europe and the world in the best possible light with a 17-page fashion editorial in the influential German Stern. The door to top fashion photography was thus opened for him. His CROATIA AIRLINES

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Fotograﬁja iz opusa The Unknown/ Photo from the opus of The Unknown

success with the Stern editorial made him move to Paris, where he started working internationally for the most inﬂuential magazines and the European editions of Vogue, The New Yorker and Rolling Stone. The great success he achieved and the cover page photos he authored seemed to have been too much for Lindbergh. In a major interview in 1980 he said that he had grown weary of the oversaturated kitsch and high glamour of the 1980s and decided to stop working for fashion magazines. He changed his decision after a conversation with the then legendary editorial director Alexander Liberman, who gave him the opportunity to present his photographic vision of women and express himself not only with photos but also with words to convey the thoughts that had been building in him for a long time. He wanted to use narrative to emphasize the importance and beauty of his black and white photos. That was actually the true beginning, the springboard which launched Lindbergh among the photography immortals. In 1988 Anna Wintour herself signed him to shoot the November Vogue cover. The opportunity to work for Vogue presented itself again in 1990 when he photographed what is still considered one of the best fashion magazine covers, the iconic black and white British Vogue cover that featured Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Tatjana Patiz, Christi Turlington and Linda Evangelista. Lindbergh has been the topic of many debates. Described by the curator Charlotte Cotton in The Observer as an artist who has instilled beauty into the previously monotonous world of black and white photography with his spontaneity, he revolutionized fashion photography and brought an entirely different perspective to some of the most beautiful women of the time. Lindbergh’s no-nonsense approach was delightful, his set was always plain and modest, the outﬁts unfussy; the idea was always to underline the natural beauty of a woman. In the late eighties, when he began to use his minimal116

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ist approach, he was, in effect, putting the model herself at the centre of magazine editorials for the first time, kick-starting a public fascination with supermodels that still continues today. As a universal artist, Lindbergh presented his first feature-length documentary, Models, in 1991, followed by further achievements and recognitions for his work and contribution to photographic art. In 1996, he became a member of the German Art Directors Club, he shot his first Pirelli calendar and he was signed as the chief cameraman for Tina Turner’s Missing You video spot. That same year, one of the top world designers, Karl Lagerfeld, wrote about Lindbergh: His vision of women is always up-to-date, but at the same time timeless. Even in his nude photographs it is always the face that plays the main role. At the beginning of 1997, Berlin’s museum, Hamburger Bahnhof, exhibited Peter Lindbergh: Images of Women, which later toured museums in Hamburg, Rome, Milan, Vienna, Moscow and Tokyo. Lindbergh has also proven himself as a successful filmmaker: he won the prize for Best Documentary at the International Festival of Cinema in Toronto with his 30-minute long documentary Inner Voices. Wim Wenders, one of the most respected and best German film directors, a photographer and fi lm professor at the High School for Visual Arts in Hamburg, wrote in the introduction to Lindbergh’s Stories: I can marvel at his pictures, gasp, yearn, or be stunned, but as photographs they are still part of our contemporary universe. No matter how much we can admire them, we can still ‘understand’ them. The beauty of these women in front of Peter’s lens, after all, is known to us. We’ve seen them and adored them all in many other contexts, with other makeup, different hairstyles, in other clothes, but that’s not it. He is the only one who knows how to make the woman in the photo look special and different, time and again. He is a truly gentle man behind the lens whose soul shows in all his pictures, because whatever he does, he does it in a way that only he knows how. In 2005, Lindbergh won Lucie, the award for achievements in fashion photography. In 2009, the 120-page narrative of Berlin featured in the German issue of Vogue to mark its 30 th anniversary won him a nomination for the Lead Award, the most coveted photographic recognition in the world. He had returned to Vogue after 18 years, and in 2010 he shot the editorial Magnificent Obsession

featuring model Natalia Vodianova and actor Ewan McGregor. Looking at things from a distance and taking a long and hard look at his career, there is no doubt that Peter Lindbergh has introduced a new direction in photography; a new realism, new ideas, a direction which speaks of changes and a different approach to fashion. However, this does not mean that Lindbergh’s contribution to fashion history stops at the supermodel phenomenon. On the contrary, he has given fashion a new dimension which is still a mirror of success and restraint. He takes credit for the aesthetic of fashion which dominated the 90s; his minimalist approach made an impact on the then promotional messages, fashion shows and the development of the fashion scene in general. His ideas are still the benchmark for many recognized fashion photographers. The story of the development of Peter Lindbergh’s photography is also the story of female revolution in the world of fashion. As for what Lindbergh expects from his exhibition and what the visitors can look forward to may be best explained by the remarkable artist himself: What we want to show in Zagreb is a combination of the exhibitions Images of Women, taken in the 80s and 90s and which defined femininity at the time, and the photographs from The Unknown project, which represent the ‘unknown’ − human beings exposed to threats they are unaware of at the moment when the photo was taken − and everything is actually fi ctitious. And for the fi lm lovers, mobile images in the big round room will be an interesting projection of an encounter with the unknown. I am sure that everybody will fi nd their own moment, their own corner and I believe that they will enjoy my vision of fashion and beauty. n

Izloæba je postavljena od 7. travnja do 10. svibnja u Domu hrvatskih likovnih umjetnika, Trg ærtava faπizma 16, a moæete je posjetiti utorakom, srijedom i Ëetvrtkom od 11 do 19 sati, petkom i subotom do 11 do 21 sati, te nedjeljom od 10 do 18 sati.

The exhibition is open from 7 April to 10 May at the Home of the Croatian Association of Visual Artists, Trg ærtava faπizma 16, on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and on Sundays from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

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D. FabijaniÊ CROATIA AIRLINES

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DOK STE U U HRVATSKOJ POSJETITE NAŠA ODREDIŠTA

Taj vjeËno mladi grad s oko 200.000 stanovnika æivi svojim urbanim ritmom veÊ 1700 godina, sa srcem u Dioklecijanovoj palaËi koja je, uz povijesno srediπte grada, kao kulturna baština, pod zaπtitom Unesca. Katedrala sv. Dujma, zaπtitnika Splita, nalazi se u mauzoleju cara Dioklecijana, a njezina raskoπna unutraπnjost mjesto je okupljanja brojnih vjernika i turista. Mnogo vrijednih spomenika kulture nalazi se i izvan zidina Dioklecijanove palaËe (renesansni trg Prokurative, palaËe, crkve, muzeji…). Smjeπten na najtoplijem podruËju sjeverne obale Sredozemlja, u srediπtu jadranske obale, taj turistiËki, gospodarski i sportski centar regije (Goran IvaniπeviÊ, Branka VlaπiÊ, Toni KukoË) svoju zelenu duπu Ëuva na brdu Marjan, gdje park-πuma nadomak gradu pruæa ugodu mirnih i od gradske buke udaljenih πetnica. Bogata turistiËka ponuda udruæena s jedinstvenim kulturnim naslijeem te mnogo kulturnih i turistiËkih dogaanja daju Splitu osobit πarm i stoga je idealno mjesto za odmor tijekom cijele godine.

This eternally young city with around 200 thousand inhabitants has lived its urban rhythm for 1700 years with Diocletian’s palace at its heart, which is also the historical centre of the city and a UNESCO world heritage site. The Cathedral of sv. Dujam [St. Domnios], the patron saint of Split, is located in the mausoleum of Emperor Diocletian, and its sumptuous interior is a gathering place for many of the faithful and tourists. Many valuable monuments of culture are located outside the walls of Diocletian’s Palace (Renaissance Prokurative Square, palaces, churches, museums...). Located in the warmest part of the northern Mediterranean coast, in the very centre of the Adriatic coast, this tourist, economic and sports (Goran IvaniπeviÊ, Branka Vlasic, Toni KukoË) region guards its green soul on Marjan hill, where a forest park near the city offers a comfortable and quiet atmosphere and a walk far from the town noise. The rich offer for tourists as well as the unique cultural heritage and many cultural and tourist events gives Split its special charm and makes it an ideal holiday destination throughout the year.

D. FabijaniÊ

WHILE IN CROATIA VISIT OUR DESTINATIONS

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M. RomuliÊ & D. StojËiÊ

Viπe od tisuÊu godina povijesti Dubrovnika sadržano je u svakom dijelu ovoga grada. On je grad muzej i æiva pozornica, idealan spoj povijesti i suvremenosti. Okruæen je srednjovjekovnim zidinama dugima 1940 m, koje su oËuvane u svom izvornom obliku i otvorene posjetiteljima kao najveÊa atrakcija.Od 1979. godine grad je pod zaπtitom Unesca. Dubrovnik je u prvom redu kulturna destinacija koja, uza spomeniËko blago, nudi niz kulturnih dogaanja i festivala. Dubrovnik je i odredište za uæivanje u odmoru, zraËnim linijama veoma dobro povezano sa svim veÊim centrima Europe. Dubrovnik je grad koji oËarava, u koji se zaljubite i uvijek iznova dolazite, otkrivajuÊi u njemu jedinstvene doæivljaje.

The over a thousand year old history of Dubrovnik is visible in every part of this city. The city is a living museum and a live stage, and has an ideal connection between its historical past and the modern day. It is surrounded by medieval walls that are 1940 metres long and are preserved in their original form. They are open to visitors and are the city’s greatest attraction. Since 1979 the town has been under UNSECO protection. Dubrovnik is mainly a cultural destination, which asides from monuments of interest, offers a series of cultural events and festivals. Dubrovnik is a destination where you can enjoy a rest, and has extremely good air connections with all the larger European centres. Dubrovnik is a city that charms, a city that you fall in love with and always return to like new, to discover more unique experiences.

D. FabijaniÊ

DUBROVNIK

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Pula, grad koji postoji tri tisuÊljeÊa, smjestila se na jugu istarskog poluotoka. Grad je to prekrasnih plaæa rasprostranjenih na gotovo sto kilometara lijepe i razvedene obale.

Posjetite Pulu, priπapnut Êe vam priËu o mitskim Argonautima, Rimljanima, MleËanima, Francima i vremenu Austro-Ugarskog Carstva. Sa saËuvanim graevinama i spomenicima iz prohujalih vremena predstavlja grad-muzej: Slavoluk Sergijevaca, Augustov hram, Herkulova vrata...

If you visit Pula, you will hear whispers about a story of mythical Argonauts, Romans, Venetians, Franks and the time of the Austrian and Hungarian Empire. The city-museum will present you with its buildings and monuments preserved from bygone times: the Arch of the Sergi, Temple of Augustus, Hercules door... In Pula you will enjoy excellent restaurants, and on the most beautiful stage in the world, in the Arena under the stars, during the summer you can listen to some of the most famous names from the world of music. The most renowned event is the International ﬁlm festival, one of the most spectacular in Europe, which is held in the open air. The view of the Pula region is framed by the Brijuni National Park, a gem in Istria’s natural heritage. With its fourteen islands and islets of exceptional beauty, safari park, the remains of Roman villas and forts Brijuni are a wonderful blend of nature and culture.

I. ©eler

U Puli Êete uæivati u odliËnim restoranima, a na najljepπoj svjetskoj pozornici na svijetu, u Areni pod zvijezdama, moæete i ovoga ljeta posluπati neke od najpoznatijih svjetskih imena glazbene scene. Najpoznatija manifestacija ipak je Meunarodni ﬁlmski festival igranog ﬁlma, jedan od najspektakularnijih u Europi na otvorenom. Vizuru pulske okolice uokviruje Nacionalni park Brijuni, biser prirodne baπtine Istre. Sa svojih Ëetrnaest otoka i otoËiÊa velike ljepote, safariparkom, ostacima rimskih ljetnikovaca i utvrda Brijuni su Ëudesan spoj prirode i kulture.

Pula, a city that has existed for three thousand years, is situated in the south of the Istrian peninsula. The town has beautiful beaches spread over nearly one hundred miles of beautiful and indented coastline.

Ranco KosinoæiÊ

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ZADAR

Graen po rimskim urbanistiËkim naËelima od nekoliko veÊih uzduænih ulica i više popreËnih koje su grad dijelile u pravokutne insule, stari grad riznica je arheoloπkog i spomeniËkog blaga iz antiËkog, srednjovjekovnog i renesansnog razdoblja. O tome svjedoËe brojni sakralni i arhitektonski spomenici − crkva sv. Donata u kojoj svako ljeto odjekuju zvuci Zadarskih glazbenih veËeri, rimski Forum u blizini glavnoga trga, Kalelarga − najduæa i najπira ulica, katedrala sv. Stoπije, Arheoloπki muzej s velikim blagom kao i mnogi drugi spomenici kulturno-povijesne baπtine (gradska vrata, Arsenal, crkve, muzeji…). U gradu s najljepπim zalaskom sunca, u morskom arhipelagu okrenutom prema mnoπtvu otoka i otoËiÊa, koji grad πtite od jakih vjetrova, uæivajte u simfoniji Morskih orgulja i Ëarobne svjetlosti urbane instalacije Pozdrav Suncu u blizini novog pristaniπta za cruisere. Zadar je moÊan kulturni i gospodarski grad ugodan za æivot tijekom cijele godine, no ljeti pokazuje svu svoju raskoπ. Posjetite tradicionalne priredbe ili suvremena dogaanja

I. Pervan

Zadar - drevni mediteranski grad i luka. Stari grad, okruæen bedemima i kulama na poluotoku, s novim, urbanim dijelom povezan je mostom, simbolom grada.

poput NoÊi punog mjeseca, Zadar snova, Millenium jump, Kalelarga art… Uæivajte u mediteranskoj kuhinji, osladite se maraskinom, likerom od viπanja, kupajte se na pjeπËanim plaæama u okolici Zadra! Zadar is an ancient Mediterranean port city. The old town, surrounded by walls and towers on a peninsula, with a new, urban part is connected by a bridge, a symbol of the city. Built on Roman urban principles, where there are several major longitudinal streets traversed by a greater number of latitudinal

streets, give the city a rectangular shape. The old town is a treasure trove of archaeological treasures and monuments to the ancient, medieval and Renaissance periods. This is visible by a number of sacral and architectural monuments − the church of sv. Donat [St. Donatus] where every summer the sounds of Zadar’s musical evenings echo, the Roman Forum near the main square, Kalelarga - the longest and widest street, the Cathedral of sv. Stoπije [St. Anastasia], an Archaeological Museum with its exceptional treasures and many other monuments of cultural and historical heritage (town gate, Arsenal, churches, museums...). In a city with the most beautiful sunset, in a maritime archipelago facing a multitude of islands and islets, which protect the city from the strong winds, enjoy the symphony of the Sea Organ and magical urban light installation Pozdrav suncu [Greeting the Sun] near the new harbour for cruise ships.

M. RomuliÊ & D. StojËiÊ

Zadar is a powerful cultural and economic city whose life is comfortable all year round, but shows all its splendour in the summer. Visit the traditional events or contemporary events like the full moon nights, Zadar dreams, Millennium jump, Kalelarga art... Enjoy the Mediterranean cuisine, taste the sweet Maraschino cherry liqueur, and take a swim from one of the sandy beaches in the Zadar area! www.htz.hr

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ZDRAVSTVENI TURIZAM NA KVARNERU HEALTH TOURISM IN KVARNER KVARNER HEALTH & WELLBEING

Sportove moæemo voljeti ili ne voljeti, u hrani uæivati viπe ili manje, ali prema zdravlju svi osjeÊamo strahopoπtovanje. Znanost, puËke izreke i vlastito iskustvo jednako svjedoËe da Ëovjek bez zdravlja u stvaralaËkom, druπtvenom i svakom drugom pogledu stradava i gasne, a zdravlje, naprotiv, priskrbljuje najdragocjeniju pomoÊ pri svakovrsnim teπkoÊama. Tragom ideje dramatiËara Euripida da More ispire sve zlo s Ëovjeka, veÊ su grËki i rimski lijeËnici vjerovali u morske kupke kao lijek, kao i u utjecaj morskog zraka i sunca na zdravlje. No, procvat zdravstvenog turizma na Kvarneru poËeo je u drugoj polovici 19. stoljeÊa, kada Austro-Ugarska Monarhija proglaπava klimatska ljeËiliπta, ureuju se kupaliπta, grade hoteli, gradi prometna i druga infrastruktura, a cijela se regija pretvara u privlaËno ljeËiliπno odredište. Duga tradicija njegovanja, unapreenja i Ëuvanja zdravlja na Kvarneru, kombinirana s prirodnim i kulturnim vrednotama, poziva vas da im se bezbriæno prepustite. Odvojite za zdravlje pokoji tjedan godiπnje, maknite se naËas iz sredine koja vas je zasitila i zaronite u raznolikost ponude koju vam podastiremo. U πirokom rasponu zdravstvenopreventivnih postupaka - od πetnji mirisnim πumskim stazama i kupanja u morskim valovima do suvremenih wellness-metoda - naÊi Êe se poneπto za sva vaπa osjetila i potrebe. A kada se odmor pribliæi kraju, osjetit Êete polet i volju da se iznova ulovite ukoπtac sa svakodnevicom iz koje ste pristigli. Od toga Ëasa Kvarner Êe svuda putovati s vama i vuÊi vas kriomice, ali snaæno, da mu se uvijek iznova vraÊate kao na izvoriπte zdravlja i dobrog osjeÊanja. Otkrijte i druge prednosti turistiËke regije Kvarner, odredište jedinstvenog spoja primorja, otoka i gorja. 124

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We might like sports or enjoy food to greater or lesser degrees, but we all take our health seriously. Science, folk wisdom and our own experience tell us that a man with poor health suffers creatively, socially and in all other respects, and that health is our best ally in life’s difﬁculties. Following the idea of the playwright Euripides that „the sea washes away all the ills of man”, ancient Greek and Roman physicians believed in the healing powers of bathing in the sea and the beneﬁcial effects of the sea air and sun on human health. The golden age of health tourism in Kvarner was in the late 19th century, when the Austro-Hungarian government proclaimed climatic health resorts, and built public baths, hotels, and transport and other infrastructure, which made this region a desirable destination for those in search of health and relaxation.

The long tradition of caring for, improving and protecting health in Kvarner, combined with its natural and cultural features, provides you with the perfect reason to visit the area and surrender to its benefits. Spend a week or two each year on your health and change your daily environment for a while to enjoy the diversity of services that we offer. We are confident that you will find something for yourself in our wide range of health-promoting and preventive treatments, including pleasant walks along fragrant forest paths, bathing in the sea, and modern wellness services. And when your holiday comes to an end, you can rest assured that you will feel new energy and enthusiasm to cope with the challenges of everyday life. From that moment on, Kvarner will travel everywhere with you, enticing you secretly yet insistently to visit the region as a source of health and wellbeing over and over again.

We also invite you to discover the other advantages of the Kvarner tourist region, a destination distinguished by its unique combination of coastline, islands and highlands.

Hrvatska/Croatia KVARNER/KVARNER RijeËko podruËje/Rijeka area Opatijska rivijera/Opatija Riviera Otok Cres/Island of Cres Otok Loπinj/Island of Loπinj Gorski kotar/Gorski kotar CrikveniËko-vinodolska rivijera/ Crikvenica-Novi Vinodolski Riviera Otok Krk/Island of Krk Otok Rab/Island of Rab

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Prilaz braÄ&#x2021;e Kaliterna 10/1, 21000 Split, Croatia tel/fax: +385 (0) 21 490 032, 490 033, 490 036

www.dalmatia.hr

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info@dalmatia.hr

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ROYAL PRINCESS HOTEL DUBROVAČKI HOTELSKI BISER THE HOTEL PEARL OF DUBROVNIK

Royal Princess Hotel, dubrovaËki hotelski biser Na poluotoku Lapadu, odnosno na samo nekoliko koraka od prekrasnoga Jadranskog mora, smjeπten je Royal Princess Hotel Dubrovnik, najnoviji dubrovaËki luksuzni hotel u sklopu Importanne Resorta. Mnogi Êe biti oduπevljeni veÊ pri prvom susretu s hotelskim apartmanima, iz kojih se pruæa jedinstven i oËaravajuÊi pogled na morsko plavetnilo. Taj hotel svojom izuzetnom ponudom moæe udovoljiti potrebama svakoga turistiËkoga i poslovnog gosta, a ljubazno i profesionalno osoblje jamstvo je vrhunske usluge. Svakako vrijedi istaknuti kako jedinstvenom doæivljaju boravka u tom hotelu pridonosi i obliænja stara jezgra grada Dubrovnika, jednoga od najljepπih i najromantiËnijih gradova svijeta. Luksuzni smjeπtaj na obali Jadranskog mora Royal Princess Hotel raspolaæe s 54 luksuzna Deluxe apartmana i predsjedniËkim apartmanom, u kojima se svatko osjeÊa doista kraljev128

CROATIA AIRLINES

ski, kako to i priliËi Dubrovniku. Hotel gostima pruæa gotovo nenadmaπivu razinu komoditeta i luksuza temeljenoga na visokokvalitetnom dizajniranom namjeπtaju, koje se u kombinaciji s ostatkom interijera, stapa u zadivljujuÊi spoj tradicionalnoga i modernoga. Svi su apartmani ureeni s osobitom pozornoπÊu te stoga gosti u intimi vlastite sobe mogu pronaÊi sve πto im je potrebno za odmor iz snova. Za romantiËne jutarnje ili veËernje trenutke idealan izbor je terasa restorana La Castile, na kojoj se uz ugodno druπtvo i Ëaπu vrhunskog vina mogu ispratiti Ëarobni prizori izlaska i zalaska sunca nad Jadranskim morem. Wellness zona i vrhunsko gastronomsko iskustvo Popratni sadræaji Royal Princess Hotela takoer su bogati i prilagoeni individualnim potrebama gostiju, koji imaju priliku uæivati u mediteranskom vrtu i πetnicama uz more, ekskluzivnim restoranima i jedinstvenim kulinarskim delicijama, wellness centru s unutarnjim i vanjskim bazenom, ﬁtnesu, saunama, relax

zoni i prostorijama za masaæu te atraktivnom golf simulatoru. Wellness zonu odlikuje jedinstveni oblik aromatskog spa tretmana, koji se temelji na autohtonim uljima dubrovaËkog podneblja i esencijalnim mirisima Mediterana. Za vrijeme boravka u Royal Princess Hotelu gosti nikako ne smiju propustiti uæivati u kulinarskim specijalitetima restorana La Castile, koji osim vrhunskih delicija oËarava i jedinstvenim ambijentom što se proteæe na jednu od najljepπih terasa grada Dubrovnika. Tu su takoer restorani Zoë i Mediterraneo, koji Êe uz vrhunske gastronomske uæitke i vina u oËaravajuÊoj mediteranskoj atmosferi razveseliti sva osjetila gostiju. Kongresna ponuda Royal Princess Hotela Royal Princess Hotel, osim idiliËnog odmora, gostima nudi i moguÊnost organiziranja poslovnih kongresa i drugih dogaanja. Kongresni centar Royal Princess Hotela moæe ugostiti i do 500 osoba, a uz konferencijski prostor opremljen najsuvremenijom audiovizualnom i tehniËkom opremom, gostima su na ras-

polaganju i brojne druge pogodnosti, poput struËnoga konzultantskog osoblja. Upravo spoj vrhunskoga poslovnog i relaksirajuÊeg luksuznog ambijenta Royal Princess Hotel tvori jedinstvenim izborom za organizaciju poslovnih i drugih dogaanja. To su prepoznale i brojne svjetske tvrtke te organizacije, poput Microsofta, Siemensa, Svjetske zdravstvene organizacije, UNICEF-a i Coca Cole. Stoga, bilo da u Dubrovnik dolazite turistiËki, na odmor ili zbog posla, Royal Princess Hotel osigurat Êe vam jedinstveni uæitak i vrijedne uspomene koje Êete zauvijek pamtiti.

providing guests with unique and enchanting

attention to detail so guests can ﬁnd everything

views from their rooms and balconies. With its

they need for a dream vacation in the comfort

exceptional amenities, the Royal Princess Hotel

of their own rooms. For romantic moments in

meets the needs of every tourist and business

the morning or evening, an ideal choice is the

guest, while the friendly and professional Hotel

terrace at La Castile restaurant, where you can

staff guarantees premium service. All of this is

witness wonderful sunrises and sunsets above

available to you in the vicinity of Dubrovnik’s old

the Adriatic in good company and with a glass

town, one of the most beautiful and romantic

of excellent wine.

cities in the world.

Luxury accommodation on the Adriatic coast

Wellness zone and ultimate culinary experience The Royal Princess Hotel’s amenities are also

The Royal Princess Hotel has 54 luxurious Deluxe

extensive and adapted to the individual needs of

Suites and a Presidential Suite, where everybody

guests. While staying at the Hotel, guests have

Royal Princess Hotel, the hotel pearl of Dubrovnik

will truly feel like royalty, as beﬁts Dubrovnik. This

the opportunity to enjoy the Mediterranean garden

hotel offers its guests unrivaled levels of comfort

and seaside walkways, exclusive restaurants and

The Royal Princess Hotel Dubrovnik, Importanne

and luxury, while the designer furniture, in com-

unique culinary delicacies, wellness center with

Resort’s ﬂagship luxury hotel, is located on Lapad

bination with the rest of the interior, blends into

indoor and outdoor pool, ﬁtness center, saunas,

peninsula and only a few steps from the beautiful

an amazing synergy of traditional and modern

relaxation area and massage rooms, as well as an

Adriatic Sea which the Hotel’s suites overlooks,

design. All suites are decorated with particular

modern golf simulator. The Royal Wellness & Spa zone features a unique form of aromatic spa treatment based on endemic oils from the Dubrovnik region and essential scents of the Mediterranean. During their stay at the Royal Princess Hotel, guests should not miss out on the culinary specialties prepared exclusively at La Castile restaurant. Besides the delicious dishes, this restaurant also captivates with its wonderful and unique ambience, which extends onto one of the most beautiful terraces in Dubrovnik. Furthermore, the restaurants Zoë and Mediterraneo will awaken all of the senses with superb culinary treats and wines in a unique Mediterranean setting.

Royal Princess Hotel congress facilities In addition to an idyllic holiday, the Royal Princess Hotel offers its guests the possibility of organizing conferences and other events. The Royal Princess Hotel congress center can host up to 500 people, and in addition to the congress facilities equipped with the most modern audiovisual and technical equipment, guests have at their disposal numerous other beneﬁts, such as professional staff. It is this combination of top-notch business, yet relaxing ambience that makes the Royal Princess Hotel a unique choice for the organization of business and other events. This has been recognized by numerous global companies and organizations, such as Microsoft, Siemens, the World Health Organization, UNICEF and Coca-Cola. Therefore, whether you are arriving in Dubrovnik as a tourist, on holiday or business, the Royal Princess Hotel will provide you with a unique experience and precious memories that you will cherish forever.

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Piše/By Lana MariÊ Štimac

rvoga sijeËnja 2014.g obiljeæava se stota obljetnica roenja komercijalnog zrakoplovstva, Ëijim se zaËetkom smatra pionirski let Tonyja Jannusa 1.sijeËnja 1914.g od St. Petersburga do Tampe na Floridi. Suputnik mu je bio Abram Pheil, tadaπnji gradonaËelnik St. Petersburga, koji je platio 400 dolara za 23-minutni let. Prijevoz zrakoplovom u to je vrijeme smatran skupom ekstravagancijom, a spomenuti pioniri nisu ni sanjali kakve Êe revolucionarne promjene na globalnoj razini donijeti razvoj

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zrakoplovne industrije u gospodarskom, socijalnom i kulturnom smislu u iduÊem stoljeÊu. Tijekom proteklih sto godina komercijalno zrakoplovstvo preobrazilo je svijet i dotadaπnji naËin æivota do neprepoznatljivosti, omoguÊivπi povezivanje razliËitih kultura, otvaranje træiπta, ekspanziju turizma i globalnog naËina razmiπljanja, te napredak u svim sferama ljudske djelatnosti. Danas zrakoplovne kompanije prosjeËno godiπnje prevezu 3.1 milijardu putnika, 50 milijuna tona robe, industrija podupire 57 milijuna radnih mjesta, a oËekuje se da Êe u 2014.g. globalni promet u industriji dosegnuti 743 milijarde dolara. Milijuni putnika koji se danas koriste uslugama zrakoplovnog prijevoza u svijetu, uzimaju zdravo za gotovo to što, uz maksimalnu udobnost, mogu prevaliti tisuÊe kilometara za samo nekoliko sati. Napredak koji je ostvarila civilna avijacija u proteklih sto godina temelji se na entuzijazmu pojedinaca Ëije su inovacije i vizije pomicale granice do tada poznatoga. No, tisuÊe aktivnosti koje se odvijaju unutar te soﬁsticirane industrije, obavlja svakodnevno devet milijuna zaposlenika, izravno zaposlenih u industriji: pilota, inæenjera, kabinskog osoblja, dispeËera, sigurnosnog osoblja, kontrolora leta, prodajnoga i administrativnog osoblja, koji svojim predanim radom tvore naπ svijet malenim, a buduÊnost kakvu æelimo − ostvarivom!

1914. prvi komercijalni let St Petersburg − Tampa, Florida 1929. potpisana je Varπavska konvencija kojom su udareni temelji komercijalnog zrakoplovstva, stvoreni pravni okviri odgovornosti za prijevoz putnika, prtljage i robe, te stvorene globalne pretpostavke zraËnog prometa. 1936. pojavio se Douglas DC-3, zrakoplov koji je promijenio svijet i uspostavio stalnu liniju New York − Chicago. 1944. 52 zemlje potpisale su »ikaπku konvenciju, kojom je ustrojen ICAO, specijalizirana agencija Ujedinjenih naroda zaduæena za koordinaciju i regulaciju meunarodnoga zraËnog prometa. 1945. u Havani je osnovana Meunarodna udruga zrakoplovnih prijevoznika (IATA) u Ëijem je Ëlanstvu 240 zrakoplovnih kompanija, koje ostvaruju 84 posto redovitoga zraËnog prometa. IATA standardi i regulative okvir su bez kojega je nezamislivo poslovanje redovitih zraËnih prijevoznika, a na njezinim ﬁnancijskim projektima i proizvodima temelji se poslovanje cjelokupne industrije. 1970. na træiπte ulazi Boeing 747, prvi πirokotrupni zrakoplov koji poËinje operacije na liniji New York − London. 1971. pojavljuje se Southwest Airlines, Ëime je poËela era niskobudæetnih prijevoznika koji donose brojne inovacije i izmjene u dotadaπnjem naËinu poslovanja zrakoplovnih kompanija.

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131

1976. prvi let Concorda na redovitoj liniji London − Bahrain. Taj supersoniËni zrakoplov na træiπtu se zadræao sljedeÊih 27 godina. 1978. u SAD je doneπena uredba o deregulaciji (US Airline Deregulation Act) kojom su onemoguÊene dræavne intervencije na formiranje cijena zrakoplovnih karata, odabir ruta, te ulazak novih aviokompanija na træiπte SAD. Pozitivni uËinci te odredbe vrlo brzo su se manifestirali na drastiËno smanjenje cijena zrakoplovnih karata. 1997. pet zrakoplovnih kompanija osniva Star Alliance, prvu globalnu zrakoplovnu alijansu, nakon Ëega slijedi osnivanje i ostalih kao πto su Oneworld i SkyTeam, koje konsolidacijom pruæaju kvalitetniji i πiri spektar usluga svojim putnicima. 1998. proveden je prvi transpolarni let od New Yorka do Hong Konga, koji je trajao 16 sati, πto je, u odnosu na uobiËajenu rutu, skratilo putovanje za tri sata. 2004. humanitarni angaæman zrakoplovnih kompanija na podruËjima opustoπenim tsunamijem u Indijskom oceanu pokazao se nezamjenjivim u situacijama u kojima su brze intervencije vitalno vaæne. 2008. uspjeπno zavrπen globalni projekt implementacije elektroniËkih aviokarata nakon kojega su slijedili i ostali projekti Ëiji je cilj unapreenje usluge i poveÊanje udobnosti putniËkog prijevoza. 2014. sto godina nakon prvog komercijalnog leta, na træiπtu se pojavljuje zrakoplov tipa Airbus A350, tehnoloπki najnapredniji proizvod suvremene avijacije, koji istodobno zadovoljava i najstroæe standarde udobnosti, te operativne i ekoloπke uËinkovitosti. n

Florida, is considered to be its beginning. He was

tion, created the legal framework for the responsi-

joined on his ﬂight by Abram Pheil, who was the

bility for passenger, luggage and goods transport,

mayor of St. Petersburg at the time, and who paid

and fulﬁlled the preconditions for global air trafﬁc.

400 dollars for the 23-minute ﬂight.

1936 The Douglas DC-3 was launched, an air-

At the time, air transport was considered an

craft which changed the world and established a

expensive luxury, and the said pioneers did not

regular New York − Chicago route.

even dream of the revolutionary changes on the

1944 52 countries signed the Chicago Conven-

global level which the development of the aviation

tion, which founded ICAO, a specialized United

industry would bring in terms of economy, society

Nations agency in charge of coordinating and

and culture in the next century.

regulating international air trafﬁc.

In the course of the past 100 years, commercial

1945 The International Air Transport Association

aviation has transformed the world and the

(IATA) was founded in Havana, the members of

contemporary way of life beyond recognition by

which are 240 airline companies which make up

facilitating connections between different cultures,

84% of regular air trafﬁc. The IATA standards and

opening markets, expanding tourism and the

regulations are the framework which is indispens-

global mindset, as well as stimulating progress

able to the operations of regular air carriers, and

in all spheres of human activity.

the entire industry’s business is based on its

Today, airline companies annually transport 3.1

ﬁnancial projects and products.

billion passengers, the industry supports 57

1970 The Boeing 747, the ﬁrst wide-body aircraft,

million jobs, and it is expected that, in 2014, the

entered the market and started ﬂying on the New

global turnover in the industry will reach 743 bil-

York − London route.

lion dollars.

1971 Southwest Airlines appeared on the market,

The millions of passengers who use air transport

thereby starting the era of low-budget carriers

services around the world take for granted the

which brought many innovations and changes in

fact that they can, with the utmost convenience

the way airline companies worked.

and comfort, travel thousands of kilometres in

1976 The ﬁrst Concord ﬂight on the regular Lon-

only a matter of hours. The progress made by

don − Bahrain route took place. This supersonic

civil aviation in the past 100 years is based on

aircraft remained on the market for the next 27

the enthusiasm of individuals whose innovations

years.

and visions shifted the limits of what was known

1978 The US Airline Deregulation Act was ad-

at the time. However, the thousands of activities

opted, which prohibited the state from intervening

that take place within this sophisticated industry

in the setting of prices of air tickets, route selection

are carried out daily by nine million employees

and the entry of new airline companies on the

directly working in the industry: pilots, engineers,

US market. The positive effects of the Act soon

cabin crew, dispatchers, security staff, air trafﬁc

manifested themselves, as the prices of air tickets

controllers, and sales and administrative staff

dropped drastically.

whose dedicated work makes our world small

1997 Five airline companies founded Star Alliance,

and the future we want reachable!

the ﬁrst global airline alliance. Other alliances fol-

January 2014 marks the 100th anniversary of

1914 The ﬁrst commercial ﬂight took place from

lowed, such as Oneworld and SkyTeam, which

the birth of commercial aviation, and

St. Petersburg to Tampa, Florida.

through consolidation offer better quality and a

Tony Jannus’s pioneering ﬂight which took place

1929 The Warsaw Convention was signed which

broader range of services to their passengers.

on 1 January 1914 from St. Petersburg to Tampa,

established the foundations of commercial avia-

1998 The first transpolar flight from New York to Hong Kong took place, lasting 16 hours, which shortened the trip by three hours compared to the standard route. 2004 The humanitarian effort of airline companies in regions devastated by the tsunami in the Indian Ocean proved to be vital in situations where quick intervention is of crucial importance. 2008 The global electronic air ticket implementation project was successfully completed, followed by other projects whose goal was to improve the service and increase the comfort of passenger transport. 2014 A hundred years after the first commercial flight, the Airbus A350 aircraft was placed on the market. It is technologically the most advanced product of contemporary aviation, and it meets the strictest comfort standards as well as operational and ecological efficiency criteria.

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Otk rijte zašt Otk pivvo br. 1 u H pi Discover why Žu Ožujsko pivo najomiljenije je jjee rvaatskoj. i najprodavanije pivo u Hrvatskoj.

Ožujsko ppivo is the most popular and best best-selling beer in Croatia.

Ožujsko pivo ima tradiciju dugu više od 120 godina, jošš od 1892. kada se počelo proizvoditi u Zagrebačkoj pivovari. Jedan je od najstarijih jstarijih brendova s neprekinutim kontinuitetom proizvodnje u Hrvatskoj. Proizvodi oizvodi se samo od ode. Pune je zlatne prirodnih sastojaka: ječmenog slada, kvasca, hmelja i vode. boje, osvježavajućeg okusa, fine gorkaste arome, pitko, s postotkom alkohola od 5,0%. Poslužuje se ohlađeno na 5°C s bijelom kompaktnom paktnom pjenom. Dobitnik je mnogih zlatnih medalja i priznanja za kvalitetu tu koji potvrđuju izvrsnost ovog proizvoda.

Ožujsko has more than th 120 years of a brewing tradition. It was in 1892 when it was produced the th first time in Zagreb brewery and it is one of the oldest products with uninterrupted continuity of production in Croatia. It is made unin from natural ingredients – barley, yeast, hops and water. Ožujsko has a ingr goldenn color, is refreshing, has smooth taste & fine bitter flavor. It is best re served at 5°C with w rich and compact foam. It has won numerous gold medals dals and awards awa for its quality which only confirms its excellence.

Dobilo je ime po mjesecu ožujku jer se u povijesnim vremenima nima sma smatralo matralo tralo da je upravo pivo proizvedeno u ožujku, zbog dostupnosti sti kvalitetnih sastojaka, najkvalitetnije. U današnje vrijeme tehnologijee to nije toliko važno, ali Zagrebačka pivovara i dalje konstantnim inovacijama ijama i ulag ulaganjima u proizvodnju vodi brigu o kvaliteti Ožujskog piva i oduševljava Hrvate i turiste 365 dana u godini. U Hrvatskoj ćete često umjesto Ožujsko čuti Žuja. Naime, Ožujsko je jedino hrvatsko pivo s nadimkom – koji su mu nadjenuli enuli nuli rema ema upravo potrošači – što dovoljno govori o odnosu Hrvata prema njihovom omiljenom pivu. Također, od potrošača potječe i slogan ogan Žuja je zakon, što je i danas glavna okosnica Žujinih kampanja. ja ja. Žuja je tamo gdje su njezini potrošači – na nogometnim utakakmicama, koncertima ili jednostavno na odmoru i roštiljanju njuu uz prijatelje. Ponosni je sponzor Hrvatske nogometne reprezentacije ntacije žujsko j od 1998. godine, a od 2010. tradicionalno se održava Ožujsko Kup, najveći malonogometni turnir u Hrvatskoj, u kojem svaki Žujin potrošač može iskusiti žar borbe i natjecanja, ali u isto grade. vrijeme dobro se zabaviti s prijateljima i osvojiti vrijedne nagrade.

It was named name after the month of March (Croatian: ožujak), when traditionally ditionally the t best beer is made. With development of modern technology, innovations and investments in production this technology constant c seasonality is no longer important for the quality of Ožujsko pivo and now it can be b brewed all year round, delighting Croats and visitors 365 days a year. y In Croatia Croati you can often hear Žuja instead of Ožujsko. You see, Ožujsko is the only Croatian beer with a nickname – given by the consumers themselves – which speaks volumes of the c relationship between Croats and their favorite beer. Also, the relat elat slogan “Žuja rules!” comes from the consumers, and it serves sl sloga the backbone of all of Žuja's campaigns to this day. as th Žuja is always where its consumers are – at football games, concerts or simply at a relaxing barbecue with friends. It is a conc conce prou sponsor of the Croatian football team since 1998., and proud since 2010 it organizes the traditional Ožujsko cup, the biggest futsal tournament in Croatia, in which every consumer of Žuja the fervor of contest and competition, and have can experience ex great time with friends and win valuable prizes at the same time. a grea

ivala u Ožujsko je pivo i partner INmusic Festivala, najvećeg festivala Hrvatskoj, na kojem će ove godine u Zagrebu nastupati brojni olly i poznati bendovi kao što su Black Keys, Pixies, Flogging Molly mnogi drugi. Na Jadranskoj obali odvijaju se pak Ožujsko Balote turniri – prvenstvo Hrvatske u tradicionalnom i prepoznatljivom tljivom sportu regije – balotama. Turniri se odvijaju sve od Zadraa pa do Dubrovnika s više od 1.000 prijavljenih timova.

Ožujsko pivo is also a partner of the INmusic Festival, the biggest Ožujsk festival in Croatia, its lineup for this year in Zagreb including festiva festiv bands such as Black Keys, Pixies, Flogging Molly many famous f others. On the Adriatic coast Ožujsko organizes and many m Ožujsko bowls tournaments – the Croatian championship in the traditional recognizable sport of the region – bowls. Tournatraditio ments are held everywhere from Zadar to Dubrovnik with more than a 1.000 enlisted teams.

Zatražite od stjuardese jedno hladno Ožujsko pivo, uvjerite te se u kvalitetu najboljeg hrvatskog piva i provjerite zašto više od milijun Hrvata kaže: Žuja je zakon!

Ask a fflight attendant for a cold Ožujsko beer, experience the quality of Croatia's best beer for yourself and find out why than a million Croats say: Žuja rules! more th

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Piše/By Lana MariÊ Štimac

STRUČNJACI ZA ZRAČNI PRIJEVOZ TERETA OKUPILI SE U ZAGREBU AIR CARGO SPECIALISTS GATHER IN ZAGREB outh West Europe IATA cargo aviation day najznaËajnija je konferencija posveÊena zraËnom prijevozu robe, koja je ikada odræana u ovoj regiji. Moæete li nam objasniti motive IATA-e za organiziranje takvog dogaanja u Hrvatskoj i zaπto je odabrala Croatia Airlines za svog partnera iz podruËja zrakoplovne industrije? ∑ Nekoliko je valjanih razloga zaπto smo smatrali da je Hrvatska dobra lokacija za taj znaËajni dogaaj. S populacijom od više nego 70 milijuna stanovnika, ova regija ima odliËan potencijal rasta. Sa stajaliπta logistike, Zagreb je vrlo pristupaËan. Takoer, IATA ima snaæan tim u ovoj regiji, koji je bio kadar obaviti sve pripremne radnje. No, najvaæniji je bio angaæman i vodstvo kompanije Croatia Airlinesa, koja je pruæila podrπku ovoj konferenciji i omoguÊila okupljanje na regionalnoj razini. ZraËni teretni prijevoz u razdoblju je znaËajnih promjena te je duænost organizacije IATA osigurati da su sve naπe Ëlanice, njih 240, kao i partneri u ovoj djelatnosti, bez obzira na njihovu veliËinu ili lokaciju, informirani i upoznati s najnovijom najboljom praksom. Konferencija je okupila sudionike u prometu robom iz Ëitave regije, ukljuËivπi Sloveniju, Crnu Goru, Bosnu i Hercegovinu, Srbiju i Hrvatsku. Zajednicu teretnih avioprijevoznika predstavljale su zra-

Filip Bundalo

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koplovne tvrtke, zraËne luke, prodajni zastupnici, πpediteri, carine i regulatori. Kakve koristi oËekujete nakon konferencije jer okupili ste tako πirok spektar relevantnih sudionika i ukljuËili ih u dijalog o ovoj industriji? ∑ Prisutnost brojnih predstavnika zraËnog prijevoza robe bila je izvrsna prilika za pruæanje informacija korisnicima iz Ëitave regije jugozapadne Europe. Æelimo biti sigurni da su svi upoznati s transformacijom s kojom je ova djelatnost suoËena i spremni provesti promjene. Jedna od najznaËajnijih promjena koje slijede novi je sigurnosni reæim za teretni promet u Europi, πto znaËi da lanci dobave za robu koja se unosi u EU moraju biti sigurni i ovjereni. UnatoË oËitim prednostima zraËnog prijevoza robe, brojke pokazuju spori rast u usporedbi s rastom putniËkog prometa i ostalih naËina transporta u Ëitavom svijetu. ©to je, po Vaπemu miπljenju, glavni razlog takvog trenda? ∑ Globalna potraænja za zraËnim prijevozom robe malo se poboljπala posljednjih mjeseci. U proπlosti je svjetska trgovina rasla dvostruko bræim ritmom od industrijske proizvodnje, ali u posljednjih nekoliko godina poËinje konvergencija trgovinskih i ekonomskih stopa rasta. OËekujemo da Êe oporavak globalnoga gospodarstva uroditi rastom trgovine, pa tako i zraËnog teretnog prometa, stoga je za zraËni prijevoz robe bitna modernizacija. Svrha je IATA-ina e-freight programa ubrzati globalne aktivnosti teretnog prijevoza u Ëitavom svijetu, ukinuti papirnatu dokumentaciju u teretnom prijevozu i zamijeniti je razmjenom elektroniËkih podataka i poruka. Kako se zrakoplovne tvrtke nose sa zahtjevima vezano uz e-freight program i slijede li ih na odgovarajuÊi naËin ostali sudionici u ovoj djelatnosti? ∑ Imate potpuno pravo. Svrha je e-freighta zamijeniti svu papirnatu dokumentaciju (Ëak do 30 dokumenata po poπiljci) elektroniËkim porukama. To Êe ne samo poveÊati uËinkovitost i kvalitetu, nego i poboljπati brzinu i sigurnost zraËnog prijevoza robe, a da i ne spominjemo smanjenje negativnog utjecaja na okoliπ. Ali dobavni lanac u zraËnom robnom transportu vrlo je kompleksan zbog velikog broja sudionika i stoga je nužno sve sudionike ukljuËiti u ovaj projekt. Dobili smo veliku podrπku drugih udruga kao πto su FIATA, TIACA i Global Shippers Forum, ali provedba nije lagan zadatak te je stoga bitno kontinuirano angaæirati sve sudionike. ElektroniËki zraËni tovarni list najznaËajniji je transportni dokument u zraËnom prijevozu robe, te predstavlja prvi korak

u realizaciji vizije e-freighta. Razina koriπtenja elektroniËkog zraËnog tovarnog lista bila je 12,3% u 2013. godini, a cilj je da se do kraja 2016. postigne razina od 80%. Koje su glavne prepreke u postizanju tog cilja, te πto poduzima IATA da bi ubrzala taj rast? ∑ Glavna je zapreka pronalazak lokalnih lidera koji mogu voditi promjenu. PrihvaÊanje elektroniËkog okruæja nije lako. Za postizanje naπe zajedniËke vizije standardiziranog, digitaliziranog okruæja, poËevπi od elektroniËkoga zraËnog tovarnog lista (e-AWB), iznad svega je nuæno snaæno politiËko vodstvo i jasno deﬁniran proces upravljanja promjenom, koji Êe ukljuËivati sve relevantne sudionike. Hrvatska je nedavno postala nova zemlja Ëlanica EU, a za to se pripremila i preuzela mnogo novih odgovornosti i obveza. U skladu s e-freight inicijativom, Croatia Airlines je investirao u potrebnu tehnologiju i 2011. godine uveo nekoliko Cargo IT rjeπenja. Ipak, ne moæemo sami mnogo napraviti i potrebna su nam snaæna i stabilna partnerstva da bismo postigli poboljπanja u okruæju zraËnog teretnog prometa. ©to bi, prema Vaπemu miπljenju, trebao biti sljedeÊi korak prema tom cilju? ∑ Najbolji pristup koji smo do sada vidjeli jest angaæman svih dionika formiranjem radnih grupa. Ovaj pristup vrlo dobro funkcionira u nekim Ëvoriπtima zraËnog teretnog prijevoza kao πto su Singapur, Hong Kong ili Dubai, gdje su rano implementirali e-AWB. Hrvatska je prepoznata kao jedna od najljepπih europskih turistiËkih destinacija, ali takoer i kao privlaËna kongresna destinacija. Imavπi na umu zemljopisnu poziciju i povoljne cijene, hoÊe li IATA razmotriti moguÊnost organizacije sliËnih dogaaja u Hrvatskoj u buduÊnosti? ∑ Ova konferencija bila je vrlo uspjeπna i nema nikakve sumnje da Êe se organizirati joπ takvih dogaanja. Ljubaznost i profesionalizam osoblja kompanije Croatia Airlines bili su pri tome znaËajan Ëimbenik. Dakako, takoer i ljepota vaπe zemlje! Organizirat Êe se sljedne radionice, ali ima i drugih programa koji takoer zahtijevaju paænju. ©to se tiËe putniËkog prijevoza, osuvremenjavanje je takoer bitno, te bi se uz podrπku industrije mogla organizirati sliËna dogaanja u tom segmentu. GovoreÊi o putnicima, 2014. je godina u kojoj se navrπava 100 godina komercijalnih putniËkih letova. HoÊe li IATA na neki naËin obiljeæiti tu stogodiπnjicu? ∑ »itava industrija slavi 100 godina komercijalnog zrakoplovstva, a nadamo se da Êe nam se u tome pridruæiti i πiroka javnost. Zaista je

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nevjerojatno kad pomislite da smo 1. sijeËnja 1914. imali jednog putnika na jednoj liniji, u 2014. Êemo prevesti 3,3 milijarde putnika na 40.000 linija. Zrakoplovstvo je donijelo neizmjerne koristi svim zemljama, ali i viπe od toga ∑ omoguÊilo je ljudima πirenje vlastitih horizonata. Svi zainteresirani za zrakoplovstvo mogu posjetiti mreænu stranicu www.fl ying100years.com, gdje Êe pronaÊi viπe informacija o prvome komercijalnom letu, glavnim prekretnicama u povijesti zrakoplovstva, te sudjelovati u razgovoru o tome πto im znaËi letjeti. n outh West Europe IATA Cargo Aviation Day is the most significant conference focused on air cargo activities ever held in this region. Could you explain what IATA’s motives were to organize such an event in Croatia and to choose Croatia Airlines as an industry partner? ∑ There were several good reasons why Croatia was a good location for this important event. With a population of over 70 million, this region has great potential for growth. From a logistical aspect, Zagreb is very convenient to reach. We also have a strong IATA team in the region that was able to put the groundwork in. But most importantly, it was the commitment and leadership from Croatia Airlines to support the event that brought the entire region together and made it possible. Air Cargo is in a period of considerable change and it is our duty, as IATA, to ensure that all our 240 members, and our industry partners, are informed and aware of the latest best practice, no matter their size or location. The conference has gathered cargo stakeholders from the entire region. The air cargo community here is represented by airlines, airports, cargo agencies, freight forwarders, customs and regulators. What benefits do you expect at the end of the day from having such a wide range of relevant participants engaging in industry dialogue? ∑ The attendance of such a wide range of representatives from the air cargo world gives us an excellent opportunity to update the whole

Filip Bundalo

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South West Europe region. We want to make sure that they are aware of the transformation facing the industry and are ready to start committing themselves to implementing change. One of the most important changes coming up is a new cargo security regime for Europe, which means that supply chains for goods being brought into the EU need to be secured and validated. In spite of the obvious advantages of air cargo transport, statistical figures show a slow increase in comparison with passenger travel growth and other transport modes worldwide. What do you think is the main reason for such a tendency? ∑ Global demand for air cargo has improved a little in recent months. In the past, world trade has grown at twice the pace of industrial production, but the last few years have seen trade and economic growth rates converge. We are expecting a pick-up in the global economy which will lead to a pick-up in global trade ∑ and thus air freight ∑ but it is important for air cargo to modernize. IATA’s e-freight program aims to accelerate the global cargo activities worldwide, to take the paper out of air cargo and to replace it with the exchange of electronic data and messages. How are the airlines coping with e -freight requirements and are they adequately followed by other stakeholders in the industry supply chain? ∑ You are absolutely right. E-freight aims to replace all the paper documents (up to 30 per shipment) with electronic messages. This will not only raise efficiency and quality, but improve the speed and security of air cargo, not to mention, reduce our environmental footprint. The air cargo supply chain, however, is very complex due to the large number of participants, and as such it is imperative to engage all of them in this project. We have received great support from other associations such as FIATA, TIACA and the Global Shippers Forum, but implementation is not an easy task and therefore it is important to continually engage all actors. The electronic Air Waybill is the most important transportation document in air cargo, and is the first step to realizing the e-freight vision. The penetration level of e-AWBs was 12.3% in 2013, with an objective to reach 80% at the end of 2016. What are the main obstacles in achieving this target, and what is IATA doing to accelerate this trend? ∑ The main obstacles are to find the local leaders that can drive change. Adopting an electronic environment is not easy. Above all, strong political leadership and a clearly defined

change-management process that engages all the relevant stakeholders are critical to achieving the shared vision of a streamlined, digitized environment, starting with the e-AWB. Recently having become a new EU Member State, Croatia has prepared for and has undertaken a lot of new responsibilities and commitments. In line with the industry’s e-freight initiative, Croatia Airlines has also invested in the technology needed and in 2011 introduced several Cargo IT solutions. Still, we cannot do much alone and we need strong and stable partnerships to achieve improvements in the air cargo environment. What do you think should be our next step towards this goal? ∑ Engaging all stakeholders by creating working groups is the best approach we have seen so far. It is working very well in some of the air cargo hubs that were early adopters of the e-AWB, such as Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. Croatia is recognized as one of the most beautiful European tourist destinations, but also as a desirable congress destination. Considering its geographical position and favourable prices, would IATA consider organizing similar events in Croatia in the future? ∑ This event was very successful and there is no doubt that more will be organized. The warmth and professionalism of the Croatia Airlines staff was a big factor in that. And of course, the beauty of the country helps! There will be followup workshops, but there are other programs that also require attention. On the passenger side, modernization is also important and with the support of the industry, similar events on the passenger side can be organized. Talking about passengers, 2014 marks the 100th anniversary of commercial passenger flights. Is IATA marking this centenary in any way? ∑ The whole industry is celebrating 100 years of commercial aviation and we hope that the general public will join in too. It really is an incredible miracle when you consider that on 1 January 1914 we had 1 passenger on 1 route, and now in 2014 we will transport 3.3 billion passengers across 40,000 routes. Aviation has brought immense benefits to every country it touches, but more than that, it enables everyone to stretch their personal horizons. There is a website, www.flying100years.com, where anyone interested in aviation can visit and find out more about the first commercial flight, the major milestones in aviation history, and take part in a conversation about what flying means to them. n

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OÆUJAK / MARCH Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 21. i 22.3., Zagreb 23.3., Rijeka LORD OF THE DANCE/ LORD OF THE DANCE Irski sastav Lord of the Dance, predvoen Michaelom Flatleyem, ponovno gostuje u Hrvatskoj. Stoga posjetite jednu od najatraktivnijih plesno-glazbenih predstava na svijetu, temeljenu na irskom folkloru./ The Irish troupe, Lord of the Dance, led by Michael Flatley, will once again be performing in Croatia. Visit one of the most attractive dance-musical performances in the world based on Irish folklore. www.eventim.hr

death of painter Miroslav KraljeviÊ with the largest ever retrospective of the works of this champion of the Croatian Moderna. The exhibition includes nearly two hundred of his most important creations. www.moderna-galerija.hr 23.3., Zagreb-»azma OD KAPTOLA DO KAPTOLA/ FROM KAPTOL TO KAPTOL Meunarodni sportski dogaaj uvrπten u meunarodni kalendar atletskih utrka. TrkaËi kreÊu iz Zagreba, s Trga bana Josipa JelaËiÊa, i trasom dugom πezdesetak kilometara stiæu od zagrebaËke do Ëazmanske katedrale./ This international sporting event is included in the international calendar of athletic races. Runners set out from Zagreb, from Ban Josip JelaËiÊ Square, and the roughly 60 kilometre route leads them from the Zagreb Cathedral to the »azma Cathedral. www.tzbbz.hr

TRAVANJ / APRIL Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 19.12.2013. - 6.4.2014., Zagreb IZLOÆBA DJELA MIROSLAVA KRALJEVIΔA/ EXHIBITION OF WORKS BY MIROSLAV KRALJEVIΔ Moderna galerija u Zagrebu obiljeæava stotu obljetnicu smrti slikara Miroslava KraljeviÊa dosad najveÊom retrospektivom toga prvaka domaÊe moderne. Izloæba je postavljena s gotovo dvjesto njegovih najvaænijih ostvarenja./ The Modern Gallery in Zagreb is marking the hundredth anniversary of the

12.4.-28.9., Zagreb ZAGREBA»KI VREMEPLOV/ ZAGREB’S TIME MACHINE U proljeÊe na zagrebaËkim ulicama sretat Êete pjevaËe starogradskih pjesama, boeme, πestinske kumice, a iz zrinjevaËkog paviljona πirit Êe se zvuci valcera i tanga, baπ kao nekad…/In the spring, on the streets of Zagreb, you will come across singers of old-town songs, bohemians, village women who sell at the markets, and from the Zrinjevac Pavilion will come the sounds of waltzes and tangos, just like long ago... www.zagreb.touristinfo.hr 13.-15.4., Zagreb ZAGREB WINE GOURMET WEEKEND 2014./ ZAGREB WINE GOURMET WEEKEND 2014 Meunarodni festival enogastronomije i mjesto okupljanja najboljih hrvatskih i stranih proizvoaËa, te poznavatelja i zaljubljenika u vino i kuhinju./This is an international festival of eno-gastronomy and a gathering place for the best Croatian and foreign producers, as well as connoisseurs and aﬁcionados of wine and food. www.timeoutcroatia.com

* Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara This schedule is valid on February 28th. Allow for change after this date.

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22.- 27.4., Zagreb DANI HRVATSKOG FILMA/ DAYS OF CROATIAN FILM U zagrebaËkom Studentskom centru svake se godine prikazuje i vrednuje jednogodiπnja domaÊa filmsku produkcija, a program obuhvaÊa razliËite filmske vrste. Uz festival u Puli to je srediπnji filmski dogaaj kad je rijeË o domaÊoj kinematografiji./Each year, in Zagreb’s Student Centre, films from one year of domestic film production are shown and evaluated, and the program includes a variety of film types. Along with the festival in Pula, it is the main film event when it comes to the domestic film industry. www.idemvan.hr 25.4.-11.5., Zagreb FESTIVAL SV. MARKA/ ST. MARK’S FESTIVAL Organizatori festivala i za ovu godinu najavljuju nastupe domaÊih i gostujuÊih solista i ansambala na zagrebaËkom Gornjem gradu, Ëije Êe vas izvedbe ostaviti bez daha./ Festival organizers have again announced concerts by Croatian and foreign soloists and ensembles in Zagreb’s Upper Town. Their music will take your breath away. www.festivalsvmarka.hr 28.4. 11. FESTIVAL PLIVANJA/ 11th SWIMMING FESTIVAL Meunarodno plivaËko natjecanje u kategorijama mlae juniorke, kadeti, mlai kadeti i poËetnici./This is an international swimming competition in the following categories: younger junior girls, cadets, younger cadets and beginners. www.pkdubrava.hr Zadar i okolica/Zadar and surroundings 28.4., Zadar KONCERT U POVODU 80. RO–ENDANA mo. PAVLA DE©PALJA/CONCERT MARKING THE 80 th BIRTHDAY OF MO. PAVLE DE©PALJ U sveËanoj dvorani SveuËiliπta u Zadru 28. travnja u 20 sati odræat Êe se koncert u povodu osamdesetog roendana maestra Pavla Deπpalja./ In the grand hall of the University of Zadar, on 28th April at 8 PM, there will be a concert to mark the eightieth birthday of maestro Pavle Deπpalj. Pavle Deπpalj, dirigent/conductor Gordan Tudor, saksofon/ saxophone www.hnk-zadar.hr

Split i okolica/Split and surroundings 9.-13.4., Supetar, BraË BISER MORA/ THE PEARL OF THE SEA U sklopu meunarodnoga kulinarskog festivala odræavaju se radionice, prezentacije, gastro-izloæbe i natjecanja u sklopu kojih se predstavljaju profesionalnihi kuhari, kuhari amateri i turistiËki djelatnici mediteranskih zemalja./Workshops, presentations, food exhibitions and competitions take place within the framework of an international culinary festival which presents professional chefs, amateur cooks and tourist professionals from Mediterranean countries. www.skmer.hr 17.- 18. 4., Jelsa, Hvar PROCESIJA ZA KRIÆEM/ FOLLOWING THE CROSS PROCESSION Punih pet stoljeÊa Hvarani na osobit naËin slave Uskrs - procesijom Za Kriæem. Jedinstven je to obred poboænosti te izraz vjerskoga i kulturnog identiteta stanovnika srediπnjeg dijela otoka Hvara./For ﬁve centuries, the people of Hvar have celebrated Easter in a unique way ∑ with the Following the Cross Procession. This is a unique ritual of the religious devotion and cultural identity of the people inhabiting the central part of the island Hvar. www.putovnica.net 20.4.-15.10., Hvar HVARSKE LJETNE PRIREDBE/ SUMMER EVENTS IN HVAR Grad Hvar ponosan je na svoje umjetniËko naslijee te je tijekom ljetnih mjeseci domaÊin mnogim kazaliπnim skupinama, glazbenicima i folklornim sastavima iz Hrvatske i inozemstva./ The city of Hvar is proud of its artistic

heritage and throughout the summer months it hosts many theatre troupes, musicians and folklore bands from Croatia and abroad. www.tzhvar.hr

trade. That is why the locals stage a large trade fair where you will get acquainted with medieval customs, crafts, weapons, games and food. www.karlovac-touristinfo.hr

Osijek i okolica/Osijek and surroundings

Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings 24.-26. 4., Dubrovnik DUBROVNIK FESTWINE 1. regionalni vinski festival/ DUBROVNIK FESTIWINE ∑ 1st REGIONAL WINE FESTIVAL Izloæba meunarodno priznatih vrhunskih vina DubrovaËko-neretvanske æupanije, na kojoj se predstavljaju i regionalni vinari s viπe stotina razliËitih etiketa te mnoge autohtone sorte./The is an exhibition of internationally recognized top quality wines from Dubrovnik-Neretva County at which the regional winemakers present hundreds of different labels and many indigenous varieties are presented. www.dubrovnikfestiwine.com 25.-27.4, Dubrovnik FESTIVAL AKLAPELA/ AKLAPELA FESTIVAL Posjetite ovaj festival ponajboljih hrvatskih muπkih, æenskih i mjeπovitih klapa koje njeguju izvorno klapsko pjevanje bez instrumentalne pratnje./ Visit this festival of the best Croatian men’s, women’s and mixed klapa groups which cherish original klapa singing without instrumental accompaniment. www.aklapela.hr

SVIBANJ / MAY Karlovac i okolica/Karlovac and surroundings 12..-31.5., Dubovac SAJAM VLASTELINSTVA DUBOVAC/ NOBILITY FAIR IN DUBOVAC Dubovac je æivio burnim trgovaËkim æivotom davno prije nego πto je Karlovac utemeljen, stoga stanovnici toga kraja prireuju veliki sajam na kojemu Êete se upoznati sa srednjovjekovnim obiËajima, zanatima, oruæjem, igrama i jelima./Long before Karlovac was founded, Dubovac lived an exciting life as a centre of

10. 5.,Vukovar FESTIVAL DUHOVNE GLAZBE BONOFEST/FESTIVAL OF SPIRITUAL MUSIC BONOFEST Na ovom festivalu duhovne glazbe predstavljaju se glazbenici te potiËu tekstopisci i skladatelji na pisanje novih duhovnih skladbi. U sklopu ovogodiπnjeg festivala odræat Êe se i glazbene radionice 9., 10. i 11. svibnja./Musicians present themselves at this festival of spiritual music while songwriters and composers are motivated to produce new spiritual songs. This year’s festival will also include musical workshops on May 9, 10 and 11. www.laudato.hr 28..- 31.5., Poæega HRVATSKI FESTIVAL JEDNOMINUTNIH FILMOVA/ THE CROATIAN FESTIVAL OF ONE-MINUTE FILMS Na festivalu pogledajte zbirku filmova svih æanrova, tematika i poruka, Ëija je zajedniËka nit jednominutno trajanje. U samo jednoj minuti film mora sadræavati sve zadane elemente priËe: zaplet, vrhunac i rasplet radnje./At this festival, you can see films of all genres, themes and messages. Their common characteristic is their duration ∑ just one minute. During the one minute, every movie has to have all the elements of a story: a plot, a climax and a resolution. www.crominute.hr

Pula i okolica/Pula and surroundings 25.5. WINE DAY- DAN OTVORENIH VINSKIH PODRUMA U ISTRI/ WINE DAY - THE DAY OF OPEN WINE CELLARS IN ISTRIA Posljednje nedjelje u svibnju obiljeæava se svjetski Dan vina, a od 1999. godine obiljeæavaju ga i istarski vinari. Stoga doite toga dana u neki od istarskih vinskih podruma i uæivajte u kvalitetnom vinu./The last Sunday in May marks the World Day of Wines. Since 1999, it has been marked by Istrian wine makers. Therefore, come to one of the Istrian wine cellars on that day and enjoy the high quality wines. www.istra.hr./www.istra.com

Zadar i okolica/Zadar and surroundings 4.5., Zadar WINGS FOR LIFE, GLOBALNA UTRKA/WINGS FOR LIFE GLOBAL RACE Hrvatska je jedna od zemalja sudionica ove globalne utrke humanitarnog obilježja, a grad Zadar jedan je od gradova domaÊina. Utrka poËinje u nedjelju, 4. svibnja, u isto vrijeme, u 12 sati po naπem vremenu, na 44 lokacije diljem svijeta. Utrka, po konceptu jedinstvena u svijetu, popularizira fondaciju Wings for Life kojoj je cilj pronaÊi naËin izljeËenja ozljeda lene moædine./Croatia is one of the countries participating in this global charity race, and the city of Zadar is one of the host cities. The race starts on Sunday 4 May at the same time, which is 12:00 PM our time, in 44 locations around the world. The race, a unique concept in the world, has been promoted by the Wings for Life Foundation, which aims to ﬁnd a way to cure spinal cord injuries. www.wingsforlife.com

5.5. i/and 5.8., Nin HODO»A©ΔE NA BLAGDAN GOSPE OD ZE»EVA/ PILGRIMAGE ON THE DAY OF OUR LADY OF ZE»EVO Na dan ukazanja, 5. svibnja, utemeljen je blagdan Gospe od ZeËeva. Gospa se, prema pisanim tragovima i sluæbenom priznanju ondaπnje Ninske biskupije, 5. svibnja 1516. godine na otoËiÊu ZeËevu ukazala pastirici Jeleni GrubiπiÊ. Stoga vjernici iz razliËitih krajeva hodoËaste Blaæenoj Djevici Mariji na otoËiÊ ZeËevo u srcu Ninske biskupije./The holiday of Our Lady of ZeËevo is celebrated on the apparition day, 5 May. According to written records and ofﬁcial recognition by the then Diocese of Nin, on 5 May 1516, Our Lady appeared to Jelena GrubiπiÊ on the island of ZeËevo. Believers from different corners come as pilgrims to the Blessed Virgin Mary on the island of ZeËevo in the heart of the Nin Diocese. www.nin.hr 29. 5. - 1. 6., Zadar 9. ME–UNARODNO NATJECANJE PJEVA»KIH ZBOROVA/ 9 th INTERNATIONAL CHOIR COMPETITION Tradicionalno meunarodno natjecanje amaterskih pjevaËkih zborova -

mjeπovitih, muπkih i æenskih./This is a traditional international competition of amateur choirs ∑ mixed, men’s and women’s. www.tzzadar.hr Split i okolica/Split and surroundings 7.-10.5., Hvar DANI HVARSKOG KAZALI©TA/ THE DAYS OF THE HVAR THEATRE U nekoliko se dana grad Hvar posveÊuje daskama πto æivot znaËe. Brojne predstave prikazuju se na pozornici staroga hvarskog kazaliπta i mnogim drugim gradskim lokacijama, a svima im je zajedniËko to πto su sve zapravo adaptacije tekstova hrvatskih knjiæevnika./For a few days, the city of Hvar lives and breathes theatre. A number of theatre shows are staged in the old Hvar theatre and at other locations around the city. All of them are theatre adaptations of Croatian writers’ texts. www.tzhvar.hr

Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings 1.-31.5., MetkoviÊ SMOTRA FOLKLORA NA NERETVU MISE»INA PALA/ THE MOONLIGHT FELL ON THE NERETVA FOLKLORE FESTIVAL U MetkoviÊu se okupljaju folklorne skupine iz cijele Hrvatske i inozemstva te pjesmom i plesom skladaju odu Mjesecu nad voljenom rijekom Neretvom./MetkoviÊ is the gathering place of folklore bands from all over Croatia and abroad who come to pay homage to the moon over the beloved Neretva River with their songs and dances. www.metkovic.hr

LIPANJ / JUNE Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 3.- 8.6. ANIMAFEST ZAGREB 2014./ ANIMAFEST ZAGREB 2014 Svjetski festival animiranog ﬁlma nastao na tradiciji poznate ZagrebaËke πkole crtanog ﬁlma. Po dugogodiπnjoj tradiciji drugi je festival animacije u CROATIA AIRLINES

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Europi posveÊen dugometraænom animiranom ﬁlmu u trajanju od najmanje 60 minuta./The World Festival of Animated Film was founded on the tradition of the Zagreb School of Animation. In term of its longevity, it is the second festival of animation in Europe dedicated to feature animated movies lasting no less than 60 minutes. www.animafest.h

5.-12.6. CEST IS D’BEST Ovaj festival na desetak dana pretvara ulice zagrebaËkog središta u vedri i optimistiËni svijet cirkusa i uliËnog teatra. Nikada grad nije πareniji i njime se ne πiri vedriji duh nego kada njime hodaju klaunovi i zabavljaËi koji na zagrebaËki festival dolaze iz cijelog svijeta./This ten day festival transforms the streets in the centre of Zagreb into a bright and optimistic world of circus and street theatre. The city is never as colourful nor does it exude such a cheerful spirit as when clowns and entertainers who come to the Zagreb festival from around the world are walking around. www.cestisdbest.com 1.- 8..6., Daruvar VINODAR-IZLOÆBA VINA/ VINODAR - WINE EXHIBITION Grad se iz urbanoga pretvara u sajmeno srediπte koje posjetiteljima, uz izloæbu vina, nudi i bogatu gastronomsku ponudu i sajam tradicionalnih obrta./From an urban settlement, the city becomes transformed into a centre of trade which offers its visitors a wine exhibition, a rich offer of food and a traditional arts and crafts fair. www.daruvar.hr Osijek i okolica/Osijek and surroundings 1.6.-31.7., Pakrac PAKRA»KO LJETO/ SUMMER IN PAKRAC Svoju srednjovjekovnu ostavπtinu PakraËani slave ovom manifestacijom. Uz kazaliπne predstave i koncerte razliËitih æanrova, moæete pratiti mnoge sportske priredbe. /Pakrac celebrates its medieval heritage with this event. Along with theatrical performances and concerts of dif140

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ferent genres, you can follow many sports events. www.pakrac.hr 7.6.-6.7., –akovo –AKOVA»KI VEZOVI U –akovu se predstavljaju tri oblika kulturne tradicije Slavonije ∑ folklor, gastronomija te tradicija uzgoja konja./In –akovo, three aspects of Slavonian cultural traditions are presented: folklore, gastronomy and the horse breeding tradition. www.tz-djakovo.hr 13. i 14.6., PitomaËa PJESME PODRAVINE I PODRAVLJA/ SONGS OF PODRAVINA AND PODRAVLJE Ovaj glazbeni festival, na kojemu svake godine nastupaju poznati izvoaËi hrvatske tradicionalne glazbe, posveÊen je njegovanju puËke suvremene pjesme./Every year this musical festival features well known performers of Croatian traditional music. It is dedicated to fostering contemporary popular songs. www.pitomacafestival.hr Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 12.-15.6., Rijeka JUBILARNA 15. FIUMANKA/ 15th ANNIVERSARY OF FIUMANKA JedriliËari iz svih krajeva svijeta okupljaju se jedanput na godinu na jedriliËarskoj regati Velika Fiumanka, koja se odræava na ruti od Rijeke do Omiπlja i natrag. To je neizostavan dogaaj za sve ljubitelje jedrenja./ Sailing boat aﬁcionados from all over the world gather once a year at the sailing regatta Velika Fiumanka which takes place en route from Rijeka to Omiπalj and back. This is a not to be missed event for all sailing lovers. www.ﬁumanka.eu 15. 6., Rijeka PROSLAVA BLAGDANA SV. VIDA/ ST. VITUS DAY CELEBRATION Blagdan sv. Vida, zaπtitnika Rijeke, obiljeæava se svake godine 15. lipnja kad se u crkvici odræava bogosluæje uz hodoËaπÊe. Takoer, u gradu se odræavaju razliËite sportske, kulturne i zabavne manifestacije./The holiday of St. Vitus, the patron saint of Rijeka, is marked every year on 15 July with a pilgrimage and a service in the little church. In addition, sporting, cultural and entertainment events take place in the city itself. www.najboljeuhrvatskoj.info 6.6..-31.8., Kastav KASTAFSKO KULTURNO LJETO/ CULTURAL SUMMER IN KASTAV Predstave, koncerti domaÊih i inozemnih glazbenika te razliËite izloæbe pridonose romantiËnom ugoaju kojim to dogaanje privlaËi mnoge posjetitelje./ Performances, concerts of local and foreign musicians and

various exhibitions contribute to the romantic atmosphere which charms the guests of this festival. www.kkl.hr 6.- 8.6.,Ogulin OGULINSKI FESTIVAL BAJKE/ FAIRYTALE FESTIVAL IN OGULIN Ogulinci svake godine u Ëast Ivani BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ, popularnoj spisateljici bajki koje rado Ëitaju djeca mnogih naraπtaja, prireuju ovaj festival koji njihov grad pretvara u svijet bajke./Every year, the citizens of Ogulin pay homage to Ivana BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ, the popular author of fairytales which delight children. They organize this festival which turns their town into a fairytale city. www.ogfb.hr 1.-21.6., Mali Loπinj MORAM U MORE/I NEED TO THE SEA Festival je posveÊen moru i æivotu ljudi s otoka, koji su oduvijek æivjeli od mora i za more, a oËekuje vas niz dogaanja i izloæbi./The festival is dedicated to the sea and the life of the islanders who have always lived from the sea and for the sea. You can look forward to a series of events and exhibitions. www.tz-malilosinj.hr 7.6.-12.9., Malinska KULTURNO LJETO/CULTURAL SUMMER Malinska na otoku K rku svojim gostima nudi kulturni program koji obogaÊuje ljetni odmor. Tijekom ljetnih mjeseci iz Samostana sv. Marije Magdalene πire se zvuci klasiËnih instrumenata, a u Galeriji sv. Nikole moæete uæivati u likovnim djelima./ Malinska on the island of Krk offers its guests an impressive cultural programme which makes a summer holiday more eventful. During the summer months, the sounds of classical instruments resound from the St. Mary Magdalena Monastery, whereas you can enjoy works of art in the St. Nicholas Gallery. www.tz-malinska.hr

Pula i okolica/Pula and surroundings 12.- 14.6., Pula PULA SUPERIORUM Posjetite Pulu jer njezine se ulice na nekoliko dana pretvaraju u pozornice slikovitoga rimskog teatra, a Arena ponovno postaje mjesto odræavanja gladijatorskih borbi./Visit Pula, whose streets become stages of a picturesque Roman theatre for a couple of days, while the Arena again becomes the venue for gladiator ﬁghts. www.pulasuperiorum.com

Zadar i okolica/Zadar and surroundings 6. - 8. 6., Zadar UNDERWALL FESTIVAL 2014 Europski metal festival na morskoj obali opet Êe otvoriti sezonu i posjetiteljima pruæiti uæitak praznika na jednome od najljepπih dijelova Mediterana. Na Underwallu pogledajte neke od najeminentnijih metal, rock, hard rock, HC, punk, gothic, industrial, EBM, darkwave bendova i otkrijte nove bendove./The European metal festival on the coast will again open the season and provide visitors with an enjoyable holiday in one of the most beautiful parts of the Mediterranean. At Underwall you can listen to some of the most eminent metal, rock, hard rock, HC, punk, gothic, industrial, EBM, darkwave bands and discover new bands. www.underwallfestival.com 1.6. - 30.9., Novalja NOVALJSKO KULTURNO LJETO/CULTURAL SUMMER IN NOVALJA Nakon πto proslave dan svoga Grada na blagdan svetog Antuna, 13.6., Novaljci poËinju dugo toplo ljeto bogato razliËitim kulturno-umjetniËkim i zabavnim sadræajima./After celebrating their town’s day, on St. Anthony’s Day on 13 June, the locals of Novalja embark on a long hot summer rife with various cultural, artistic and entertainment packed events. www.tz-novalja.hr 3.-7.6., Starigrad-Paklenica TRAGOVIMA WINNETOUA/ FOLLOWING WINNETOU’S TRAIL Doæivite lokaciju na kojoj se snimao film o hrabrom poglavici Winnetouu, Starigrad-Paklenicu, i uæivajte u prirodnim ljepotama, okuπajte se u jahanju, sjednite uz logorsku vatru i kuπajte razne delicije./Experience the locations where the movie about the brave Indian chief Winnetou was fi lmed ∑ Starigrad-Paklenica, and enjoy the beauties of nature, try horseback riding, sit around a campfire and taste various delicacies. www.rivijera-paklenica.hr Split i okolica /Split and surroundings 16.-28.6., Split FESTIVAL ULI»NIH ZABAVLJA»A/ A FESTIVAL OF STREET ENTERTAINERS Na meunarodnom festivalu uliËnih zabavljaËa, umjetnici i performeri neformalnoga umjetniËkog izraæavanja iz mnogih zemalja zabavit Êe goste i graane Splita na viπe lokacija u gradu./At this international festival of street entertainers, artists and performers from many countries of the

world who foster informal forms of artistic expression will entertain the citizens and guests of Split at many locations around the city. www.visitsplit.com

Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings 21.i 22.6., Dubrovnik VIKEND FESTIVAL ANA U GRADU/ANA IN THE CITY WEEKEND FESTIVAL Tijekom festivala predstavit Êe se Ana Rucner, vrsna violonËelistica prepoznatljivoga glazbenog stila i osebujnih scenskih nastupa. 21. lipnja u 5 sati koncert Pozdrav ljetu uz izlazak Sunca na brdu Sr 22. lipnja u 21 sat humanitarni koncert u Kneæevu dvoru/During the festival, Ana Rucner, an excellent cellist recognized for her trademark musical style and attractive stage performance, will appear on 21 June at 5 AM at the Welcome Summer sunrise concert on Mount Sr, and on 22 June at 9 PM she will have a charity concert at the Rector’s Palace. www.anarucner.com 1.6.- 31.10., KorËula TRADICIJA VITE©KIH IGARA/ KNIGHTS’ TOURNAMENTS TRADITION U gradu i na otoku KorËuli moæete doæivjeti izvedbu moreπke, tradicionalnih maËevalaËkih plesova koji simboliziraju borbu izmeu dobra i zla./ In the city and on the island of KorËula you can attend moreπka, a traditional dance with swords which symbolizes the battle between good and evil. www.korcula.net

REGIONALNI VINSKI FESTIVAL / REGIONAL WINE FESTIVAL KLARISA, DUBROVNIK

24-26/04/2014 www.dubrovnikfestiwine.com DubrovaËkoneretvanska županija

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SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 144 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED

147 NOVOSTI NEWS

150 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 153 FLOTA FLEET 155 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 157 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB ZAGREB AIRPORT 158 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 160 ADRESE ADDRESSES

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Miles & More

Kupujte eksluzivne proizvode u Lufthansa WorldShopu − od sada moguÊa dostava u Hrvatsku! Otkrijte naπ πiroki asortiman zanimljivih proizvoda kao πto su putne torbe i kovËezi, dodatna oprema, elektroniËki ureaji i ostali nezaobilazni proizvodi za putovanje i kuÊu. Posjetite nas na www.worldshop.eu ili u naπim prodavaonicama u zraËnim lukama. Moæete plaÊati gotovinom ili kreditnim karticama te Miles & More nagradnim miljama, a moguÊe je i kombinirati ta dva naËina plaÊanja. Shop for exclusive products at Lufthansa WorldShop − now available for delivery to Croatia! Discover our wide assortment of interesting products such as luggage, accessories, electronics, and other must-haves for on the move or at home. Visit us at www.worldshop.eu or in our airport shops. Available for purchase with cash or credit card, redeemable for Miles & More award miles, or a combination of both.

Osnove programa Miles & More

Introducing Miles & More

Miles & More najve Êi je program nagraivanja putnika u Europi i nudi Ëlanovima ra zliËite moguÊnosti prikupljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih par tnera u programu. Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija par tnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kar tica Miles & More.

Miles & More is the greatest frequent ﬂyer programme in Europe, offering its members numerous possibilites for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many at tractive privileges. Members collect miles by using the ser vices of many par tners in the programme. Miles are credited for ﬂights of all Star Alliance members and other airline par tners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car par tners or staying in participating hotels.

Zatra æite svoju Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditnu kar ticu! n 5 ku na = 1 mi lja - za sva kih 5 ku na potro πe nih preko ove kar tice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja n Dvo s tru ke mi lje - osva ja te za pla Êa nje tu ri stiËkih aranæmana i zrakoplovnih karata u Diners Club Travelu

Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card! n 5 HRK = 1 mi le - for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile n Earn do u ble mi les - for paying pac ka ge to urs and ﬂight tickets at Diners Club Travel

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Miles & More Popunite i pošaljite / Complete and send off

Pristupnica − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia ili na fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200 Enrolment − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia or by fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200 0HR01

Molimo da napišete samo jednu adresu velikim, štampanim slovima / Please state only one address in capital letters Ime / Titula / Oslovljavanje / First or given name Title Salutation g / Mr. Dr. Ga / Mrs. Prof. Ulica i broj, zgrada / Street and number, building

Poštanski broj / Postcode

Datum roenja (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of birth (dd/mm/yyyy)

Prezime / Family name

Poštanski pretinac / PO Box

Grad / Town

Država / Country

Odjel (nije obavezno) / Department (optional)

Molimo Vas da unesete naziv kompanije (nije obavezno) / Please enter name of company here (optional)

E-mail-adresa (Molimo Vas da popunite ovo polje) / E-mail address (Please enter your e-mail address and check/mark the box below to receive account information via the Miles & More online newsletter!) Telefon / Telephone

Broj mobitela / Mobile number

Molimo Vas da velikim štampanim slovima popunite polja podacima o svom trenutnom letu / Please fill in your current flight details in capital letters Broj karte, etix®, ETKT (npr. 220 3000000474) / Ticket number, etix®, ETKT (e.g. 220 3000000474)

Br. leta (npr. LH 180) / Flight No. (e.g. LH 180)

Datum odlaska (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of departure (dd/mm/yyyy)

Ruta (npr. Frankfurt−Paris) / Route (e.g. Frankfurt−Paris)

Osoban odabir naËina komunikacije* / Personal communication preferences* Æelim primati sljedeÊe i slažem se da se moji osobni podaci koriste za: / I would like to receive the following communication and agree to the usage of my personal data for communication: Miles & More Online Newsletter/ Miles & More Online Newsletter

Miles & More ponude posebno za Vas / Miles & More offers especially for you

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Informacije o proizvodima Lufthanse i ostalim Miles & More avio partnerima / Product information about Lufthansa and the Miles & More airline partners

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Podaci o Vašem Miles & More raËunu i Miles & More newsletter mogu jedino biti poslani elektroniËkom poštom. NeÊete ih primiti poštom; bilo kako bilo, svoj raËun milja u bilo koje vrijeme možete vidjeti na miles-and-more.com / Miles & More account information is only sent via the Miles & More online newsletter. There is no separate mailing.; however, you can view your mileage account anytime at miles-and-more.com.

Odabirem jezik za komunikaciju / Preferred correspondence language:

NjemaËki / German

Engleski / English

Ovisno o državi koja se prikazuje u Vašoj adresi, moguÊe je da Êete moÊi odabrati jezik od njih nekoliko dodatnih. Jezik korespondencije može varirati ovisno o mediju. Kako biste provjerili svoj raËun ili ažurirali svoj profil, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com/myprofile. / Based on the country shown in your address, additional languages may be available for you to choose from. The language of correspondence may vary depending on the medium. To check your account status or to update your profile, please visit miles-and-more.com/myprofile. Sudjelovanje u frequent flyer progamu Miles and More je podložno Pravilima i Uvjetima. Kako biste proËitali trenutna Pravila i Uvjete, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com. Registracija u Miles & More programu je besplatna. / Participation in the Miles & More frequent flyer program is subject to the Terms & Conditions. To read the current Terms & Conditions, please visit miles-and-more.com. Registration in the Miles & More program is free of charge. * Imate pravo bilo kad povuÊi svoj pristanak, djelomiËno ili u cijelosti, tako da ažurirate svoj Miles & More profil online ili da nazovete Miles & More Servisni Centar na broj: 072 220 220 ili +49-69-66 10 23 30 10. Vaši dodatni komentari, za koje ne postoji predvien prostor, neÊe biti uzeti u obzir. / You have the right to revoke your consent at any time, inwhole or in part, by updating your Miles & More profile online or by calling the Miles & More Service Center at +49 - 69 - 66 10 23 30 10. Unfortunately all supplementary notes can not be considered.

Datum / Date

Potpis / Signature

Jednostavno je prijaviti se za Ëlanstvo: • preko interneta na web stranici www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • poπtom • telefaksom na broj +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 • kod osoblja u zrakoplovu Bit Êe nam zadovoljstvo ubiljeæiti Vam milje za trenutaËni let kao i za bilo koji drugi let koji ste ostvarili u posljednjih 6 mjeseci s Croatia Airlinesom, kompanijom Lufthansa ili nekim drugim partnerom u programu. Molimo Vas da gore unesete podatke o trenutaËnom letu. Retroaktivno ubiljeæavanje milja za druge letove moæete zatraæiti na stranici www.miles-and-more.com. Molimo Vas da uvijek Ëuvate originalnu kartu za ulazak u zrakoplov (boarding pass) i kopiju putne karte dok Vam se milje ne ubiljeæe na raËun.

It’s so easy to register: • Online at www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • By fax +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200

• By post • With one of your flight attendants

We will be happy to credit your account with the miles for this flight and for any other flights taken in the last 6 months with Croatia Airlines, Lufthansa or another Miles & More partner. Enter your current flight above. To have the miles for the other flights credited to your account, go to www.miles-and-more.com. Please retain your original boarding card and passenger receipt (copy of your ticket) until the miles have been credited to your account.

Razred putovanja/ Service class

Klasa knjiæenja/ Booking class

Miles & More – veÊ sad poËnite prikupljati milje

Broj leta/

Flight number

Broj karte/

Miles & More – start collecting miles now

Document number

LUFTPOST Prostor za marku.

PAR AVION PRIORITAIRE

Please affix stamp here.

RÉPONSE PUBLICITAIRE/ANTWORT ALLEMAGNE Miles & More Postfach 14 34 33309 Gütersloh ALLEMAGNE

»im se poËnete koristiti svojom privremenom karticom Miles & More, milje Êe Vam se biljeæiti na raËun. Molimo Vas da pri svakoj rezervaciji navedete broj svoje kartice Miles & More. Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. Milje za danaπnji let bit Êe Vam ubiljeæene na raËun ako na prednju stranu unesete sve potrebne podatke o letu.

Ime/First name

Miles will start landing in your account immediately after you start to use your temporary Miles & More Card. Please remember to state your personal Miles & More number every time you make a reservation. You will receive your proper Miles & More Card once you have collected one mile.

Prezime/Surname

We will credit the miles for your current flight to your account once you have provided all the details of the current flight on the front.

Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. We will send you your regular Miles & More Card as soon as you have earned one mile.

Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda - jednostavno plaÊajte svojom Diners Club kar ticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu. n Osvo ji te joπ vi πe mi lja - ko ri πte nje osta lih po godnosti Diners Cluba poput besplatnih online usluga, e-plaÊa nja ili trajnih naloga donosi vam dodatne milje. n 2 kar ti ce - 1 ra Ëun Mi les & More - ko ri stite li se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom kar ticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More. n

Collect award miles ever ywhere - simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC of ﬁces in Croatia or abroad n

Collect ex tra award miles - by using other Diners Club beneﬁts, such as free online ser vices, internet banking and e-paying, standing orders etc.

n 2 cre dit car ds - 1 Mi les & Mo re mem ber ship ac count - use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account.

Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu! Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club objavili su, osim companion kreditnih kartica (poslovnih i privatnih), i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potroπnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paru 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card! Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club have issued, besides a companion credit card (both business and private), a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Zatraæite svoju Croatia Airlines American Express kreditnu kar ticu! n 4 ku ne = 1 nagradna mi lja - za sva ke 4 ku ne potroπene preko Premium kar tice biljeæi se 1 nagradna milja, odnosno za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko Standard kar tice n 2500 mi lja do bro do πli ce - za nove osnov ne Premium korisnike i 1250 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Premium korisnike n 1500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard korisnike i 750 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Standard korisnike n Dvostruke nagradne milje - za potroπnju u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i Jumbo Travel Ser vices PBZ Carda n UËlanjenje u Priority Pass bez naknade te pristup u viπe od 450 VIP salona u zraËnim lukama

Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express credit card! n 4 HRK = 1 award mile - for every 4 HRK spent via Premium card, you collect 1 award mile, and for every 5 HRK spent via Standard card you collect 1 mile. n 2.500 wel co me mi les - for new ba sic Pre mi um card users and 1.250 welcome miles for new additional Premium card users. n 1.500 wel co me mi les - for new ba sic Stan dard card users and 750 welcome miles for new additional Standard card users. n Earn do u ble award miles - using the card to pay for travels at Croatia Airlines sales of ﬁces and Jumbo Travel Ser vices of PBZ Card. n Free Pri ority Pa ss enrol lment- it ena bles you to access into more than 450 VIP airport lounges

Ra zredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti Koriπte njem usluga par tne ra u programu prikupljate nagradne milje koje zamjenjujete za nagrade i statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status, na temelju kojeg ostvarujete pogodnosti. Statusne milje prikupljaju se redovitim letovima sljedeÊih zrakoplovnih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Austrian Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Luf thansa (ukljuËujuÊi Luf thansa Regional i Luf thansa Pri vate Jet), SWISS i svi zra koplov ni par tneri iz mreæe Star Alliance, Air Dolomiti i Luxair. Svaka tako ostvarena milja biljeæi se i kao statusna i kao nagradna milja. Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendarskoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller, a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini oËe kuje vas status Se nator. »lanovi koji prikupe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u ra zdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalendarske godine, stje Ëu status HON Circle.

Tiers and beneﬁts By using the Miles & More par tners’ ser vices members collect award miles, which are traded in for awards; and status miles, which determine a member’s membership status and privileges. Status miles can be accrued on scheduled ﬂights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Austrian Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Luf thansa (in clu ding Luf thansa Re gi o nal and Luf thansa Private Jet), SWISS, all Star Alliance par tners, Air Dolomiti and Luxair. Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status and an award mile. With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year members earn the Frequent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, earn the HON Circle status.

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Pogodnosti statusa Fre quent Traveller - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja na zaista prijeeni ili standardni iznos za letove sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Luf thansa (ukljuËujuÊi Luf thansa Regional i Luf thansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Air ways, United, Brussels Airlines i Luxair. - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - uporaba Luf thansa Business Class Loungea prilikom letova s nekom od Ëlanica Star Alliancea - prednost na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog razreda - 40 kg prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji Ako je rijeË o komadnom prijevozu prtljage, 2 komada u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu, a 3 u prvom razredu putovanja

Frequent Traveller privileges - Exe cu ti ve Bo nus of 25 per cent on the ac tu al flown miles or standard mileage amounts on flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Air lines, LOT Polish Air lines, Luf thansa (including Luf thansa Regional and Luf thansa Pri vate Jet), SWISS, US Air ways, United, Brussels Airlines and Luxair. - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Use of the Luf thansa Busine ss Class Lounges while flying with a Star Alliance Member - Waiting list priority - Check-in at the Luf thansa Business Class counter - Free baggage allowance of 40 kg depending on the destination and the airline If piece concept is applicable 2 bags in total (Economy or Business) and 3 bags in the First Class

Pogodnosti statusa Senator - Exe cutive Bonus - 25 posto milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - predujam od 50.000 milja - uporaba Luf thansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold Lounge par tnera u Star Allianceu - viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog ra zreda - osigurano mjesto na letu za rezer vacije do 48 sati odnosno do 72 sata unaprijed, ovisno o razredu putovanja - 50 posto manje milja za suputnika na nagradnom letu, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dodatnih 20 kg ili dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonomskom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu - šest e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade), te dva vauËera prilikom svake obnove statusa. - Senator Premium Award

Senator privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - 50,000 miles in advance - Access to the Luf thansa Senator Lounge as well as to the Star Gold Lounges of Star Alliance par tners - High waiting list priority - First Class check-in - Booking guarantee up to 48 or 72 hours in advance depending on the booking class - A 50 per cent mileage discount for an accompanying person on ﬂight awards depending on the airline - Additional 20 kg baggage allowance or an additional bag depending on the destination and the airline - Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and 4 in the First Class - 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers and two e-vouchers each time the status is renewed. - Senator Premium Award

Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle - sve pogodnosti statusa Se nator - Exe cutive Bonus od 25 posto - predujam od 100.000 milja - Status Se nator za supruænika ili par tnera, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - šest e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade) te šest prilikom zadržavanja statusa - dodatne pogodnosti koje nude par tneri programa osiguravajuÊi jedinstveno iskustvo putovanja - komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonomskom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu

HON Circle privileges - All existing Senator privileges - Executive bonus of 25 per cent - 100,000 miles in advance - Senator status for your spouse or par tner depending on the airline - 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers and 6 every time the status is renewed - Additional beneﬁts of fered by Miles & More partners, rounding off the travel experience - Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and 4 in the First Class

Troπite milje Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge nagrade: nagradne karte, premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), razliËite nagrade kojima se moæete koristiti pri putovanju (hotelski smjeπtaj, unajmljivanje vozila). Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com

Spend miles You can exchange collected award miles for awards prepared for you: award tickets, upgrades, various travel awards. You can ﬁnd more at: www.miles-and-more.com

SAME PRICES. GREATER DEALS.

ATTENTION! NEW BIGGER QUANTITIES FOR EU-TRAVELLERS.

Split

Airport

S A M E P R I C E S . G R E AT E R D E A L S .

:WSP[ (PYWVY[ *LZ[H KY - ;\KTHUH 2HZ[LSH ÷[HMPSPǅ e-mail: trgovina@split-airport.hr · Tel.: + 385 21 20 35 55 · Fax.: + 385 21 20 34 22 · www.split-airport.hr

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CROATIA AIRLINES NOVOSTI

CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS SUMMER FLIGHT SCHEDULE ANNOUNCEMENT

During the summer flight schedule (30.3 25.10.2014), in international traffic our aircraft will directly connect Croatian cities with Athens and Amsterdam. On the Split ∑ Athens route we will have flights on Saturdays, while on Tuesdays we will connect Dubrovnik and Amsterdam, and Pula and Amsterdam. Besides this, we will introduce another flight from Split to Munich on Saturdays, and additional flights on Thursdays from Dubrovnik to Zürich and from Dubrovnik to Paris on Tuesdays. We will also connect Split and Lyon on Saturdays. During the summer flight schedule we will again have flights on the Split ∑ Belgrade route on Mondays, Fridays and Saturdays, and on the Zagreb ∑ Barcelona route on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. NAJAVA LJETNOG REDA LETENJA

Naπi Êe zrakoplovi tijekom ljetnog reda letenja (30.3.-25.10.2014.), u meunarodnom prometu, izravno povezivati hrvatske gradove s Atenom i Amsterdamom. Na liniji Split − Atena letjet Êemo subotom, a utorkom Êemo povezivati Dubrovnik i Amsterdam te Pulu i Amsterdam. Osim toga, uvest Êemo joπ jedan let iz

Splita u München subotom, kao i dodatni let Ëetvrtkom iz Dubrovnika u Zürich te utorkom iz Dubrovnika u Pariz. Naši zrakoplovi povezat Êe Split i Lyon subotom. U ljetnom redu letenja ponovno prometujemo na liniji Split - Beograd ponedjeljkom, petkom i subotom te na liniji Zagreb − Barcelona utorkom, Ëetvrtkom i nedjeljom.

NOVA SJEDALA U ZRAKOPLOVIMA A 320

Kako bi putovanja naπim zrakoplovima bila joπ ugodnija, odluËili smo tijekom sljedeÊih mjeseci u naπim zrakoplovima Airbus 320 takoer zamijeniti putniËka sjedala. Nova sjedala Recaro istoga su modela kao ona u zrakoplovima A319, s dodatnim poboljπanjima koja se tiËu tehniËkih izvedbi te ne mijenjaju izgled sjedala. Kvalitetna sjedala izraena su u NjemaËkoj i Poljskoj, a rezultat su viπegodiπnjih istraæivanja i zadovoljavaju vrlo zahtjevne standarde avioindustrije kao πto su visoka kvaliteta, funkcionalnost i ergonomiËnost. Pri tome takoer valja istaknuti renomiranu nagradu za dizajn − Red Dot 2012. − koju su dobila sjedala RECARO BL3520. Na sjedalima je primijenjen vrlo inventivan Recarov produkt dizajn. StruËnjaci na ergonomskim institutima i pojedinim fakultetima istraæivali su kako udovoljiti vrlo razliËitim projektnim zahtjevima, πto je, izmeu ostalog, rezultiralo znaËajnim smanjenjem teæine sjedala za oko 5 kilograma. Smanjenje teæine sjedala bitno pridonosi smanjenju potroπnje goriva, πto je u zrakoplovstvu kljuËno vaæno zbog konstantno visokih cijena goriva. NEW SEATS IN A320 AIRCRAFT

In order to make your ﬂights on Croatia Airlines even more comfortable, we have decided to replace the passenger seats in our Airbus 320 aircrafts in the upcoming months. The new Recaro seats are of the same model as those in the A319 aircrafts, with additional improvements in terms of technical characteristics but which do not alter the appearance of the seats. 148

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These top quality seats were produced in Germany and Poland as a result of many years of research, and they meet the very demanding air industry standards such as high quality, functionality and ergonomy. It is worth mentioning that RECARO BL3520 seats won the reputable Red Dot 2012 design award. The innovative Recaro product design was applied to the seats. Experts at institutes of ergonomy and several faculties researched how they could satisfy various project requirements, which, among other things, resulted in a significant decrease in the seat weight of about 5 kilograms. The seat weight reduction significantly contributes to a decrease in fuel consumption which is of key importance in the air traffic industry due to the constantly high fuel prices. NOVI BROJ KONTAKT CENTRA

Broj telefona Kontakt centra 062 500 505 za hrvatsko træiπte potkraj oæujka mijenja se u 072 500 505. U Kontakt centru naπi Êe vam kolege rado odgovoriti na sva pitanja u vezi s putovanjem, rezervirati let i izdati zrakoplovnu kartu. NEW CONTACT CENTRE NUMBER

The 062 500 505 Contact Centre number for the Croatian market will change at the end of March to 072 500 505. Our colleagues at the Contact Centre will gladly answer all your questions relating to your travels, book your ﬂight and issue your ﬂight ticket. NOVO U PONUDI

Prigodna torta − za mladence na medenome mjesecu i za roendan. Viπe na www.croatiaairlines.hr NEW IN THE OFFER

Special occasion cakes ∑ for newlyweds on their honeymoon and for birthdays. More at www.croatiaairlines.hr

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U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU RED SJEDENJA Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo.

videorekorderi; kalkulatori. SljedeÊi ureaji mogu se rabiti sve vrijeme: sluπni aparati, ugraeni medicinski aparati, elektroniËki satovi, elektroniËki stimulatori æivaca.

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI RU»NA PRTLJAGA

PO©TOVANI PUTNICI! Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima. Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije. UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi.

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Sva Ëekirana prtljaga mora imati putnikovo ime. Besplatne oznake za prtljagu mogu se dobiti u svim prodajnim uredima Croatia Airlinesa. Oznaku za prtljagu stavite i unutar prtljage. Sve vrijedne stvari i predmete nosite sa sobom u zrakoplov. Osobnu ruËnu prtljagu odloæite iznad svojeg sjedala ili ispod njega, tako da teæi komadi idu ispod, a lakπi iznad, a da istodobno ne smeta drugim putnicima i posadi zrakoplova.

UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima. PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja. Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta.

Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva.

USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U naπim zrakoplovima posluæujemo hranu i napitke bez naplate. U poslovnom razredu na svim letovima usluga ukljuËuje birana hrvatska jela, alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te izbor domaÊega i stranog tiska. U ekonomskom razredu usluga ovisi o vrsti i duljini leta. Na domaÊim letovima posluæuje se samo voda, a na meunarodnim letovima usluga se sastoji od snacka i ponude piÊa. Na veoma kratkim letovima putnicima nudimo samo vodu, a na duljim letovima u ponudi su alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te topli napitci. IskljuËivo u poslovnom razredu moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed (vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed). Putnicima nije dopuπteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Alkoholiziranim putnicima ne posluæuju se alkoholna piÊa. Puπenje je zabranjeno tijekom boravka u zrakoplovu. Toaleti su opremljeni detektorima dima.

UPORABA TELEFONSKIH NAPRAVA MEDICINSKA POMOΔ Sadaπnje odredbe zabranjuju uporabu odreenih prenosivih elektroniËkih naprava tijekom komercijalnih letova, zbog moguÊnosti ometanja navigacijske i komunikacijske opreme. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa zabranjena je uporaba ovih elektroniËkih naprava: prijenosnih telefona, komercijalnih dvovalnih prijenosnika (npr. walkie talkie); amaterskih prijenosnih ureaja; CB prijenosnih ureaja: prijenosnih ureaja koji emitiraju RF energiju na odreenoj frekvenciji, perifernih ureaja za raËunala ili igre. Ovi se ureaji mogu rabiti kad zrakoplov nije na pisti, uzletu, poËetnom penjanju, prilazu ili fazama slijetanja: osobna raËunala (periferni ureaji kao πto su πtampaËi, vanjski disc driveovi itd. nisu dopuπteni); osobna raËunala s igrama, VHF skenerski prijamnici; CD diskovi; kasetofoni,

U zrakoplovu imamo priruËnu ljekarnu sa svim potrebnim lijekovima za prvu pomoÊ (s lijekovima protiv bolova, ﬂasterima i ostalim osnovnim medicinskim sredstvima). Za medicinsku pomoÊ obratite se kabinskom osoblju. ■

DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our ﬁrst and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned

ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT improvements are an answer to your requests. With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services. Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inflight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr Please read the instructions below, important for your safety and comfort during the flight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your flight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible. In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking flights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.

Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the ﬂight.

USE OF ELECTRONIC DEVICES Current regulations prohibit the use of certain types of portable electronic devices (PFDs) on board commercial ﬂights, due to potential interference with navigational and communications equipment. On Croatia Airlines’ ﬂights it is prohibited to use the following electronic devices: cellular telephones, commercial two-way transmitters

and solids, radioactive materials and poisons, ﬁrearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers.

IN-FLIGHT SERVICES We serve food and beverages free of charge in our aircraft. In business class on all flights the services include a choice of Croatian foods, alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, as well as a choice of domestic and foreign print media. Our services in economy class depend on the type and length of the flight. On domestic flights we serve only water, and on international flights our services include snacks and an offer of beverages.

SEAT ASSIGNMENT Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the ﬂight, please return to it before each landing.

BAGGAGE All checked-in baggage must have the passen-ger’s name on the outside. Free identification cards are available at all OU ticket offices. We suggest that you place an identification tag inside your luggage as well. Carry all valuable and important items with you on the plane. Hand luggage must be stowed under the passenger seat or in the overhead compartment - heavy pieces below and lighter above the seat - in a way not to disturb other passengers or the cabin crew.

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the ﬂight attendant’s predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole ﬂight.

(e. g., walkie-talkies); amateur radio transmitters; Citizen Band (CB) transmitters; 49-MHz transmitters, devices designed to radiate RF energy on a speciﬁc frequency; peripheral devices for computers or computer games. The following devices may be used when the aircraft is not in the taxiing, take-off, initial climb, approach or landing phases: personal computers (cable-connected peripheral devices such as printers, external disc drives, etc. are not permitted); personal computer games, VHS scanner receivers; compact disc players; cassette tape players; video recorders; calculators. The following may be operated at all times: hearing aids, implanted medical devices, electronic watches, electronic nerve stimulators.

On very short flights our passengers are offered only water, and on longer flights they are offered alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages as well as hot drinks. In business class only you can order a special meal when purchasing your tickets, however, this must be done at least 24 hours ahead (vegetarian, Muslim, diet, but kosher meals must be ordered 48 hours ahead). Passengers are not allowed to consume their own alcoholic beverages. Passengers that are considered under the influence of alcohol are not served alcoholic beverages. smoking is forbidden in the aircraft. The toilets are equipped with smoke detectors.

MEDICAL AID RESTRICTED ITEMS The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage. Such items are: explosives, ﬂammable liquids

Painkillers, Band Aid and other essential medical items are kept on the aircraft. Ask your ﬂight attendant should you need any assista nce. ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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NEW YORK Y

LONDON

Star Alliance member airlines as at 21st March 2014.

THE WAY TO RELAX IN OVER 1,000 LOUNGES WORLDWIDE BEIJING

With Gold Status you’re welcome in every one of our lounges, whether you ﬂy Business or Economy. staralliance.com

FLOTA

FLEET Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m /ft )

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

174

144

Airbus 320-200 Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Airbus 319-100 Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Dash 8-Q400 Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking. CROATIA AIRLINES

153

154

CROATIA AIRLINES

A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

•

TRONDHEIM

USA NEW YORK WASHINGTON

BERGEN

St. Petersburg STAVANGER

Aberdeen Edinburg Belfast Dublin

Manchester

VILNIUS GDANSK

Kassel DUSSELDORF

POZNAN

Chisinau LYON

Turin

PORTO

VENICE

Genoa Madrid

RIJEKA

OSIJEK BELGRADE Bucharest

BRA» BARCELONA

Podgorica Bari Tirana

Palermo Catania

ATHENS

Beirut Damascus TEL AVIV Jerusalem Amman Q linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines’ services

Q u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama

in cooperation with partner airline

Partneri / Partners:

Brussels Airlines

United Airlines CROATIA AIRLINES

155

156

CROATIA AIRLINES

ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

ZAGREB AIRPORT

Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21

International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

2 Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7

Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike

Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima

Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

P C

Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A”

Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”

i S B

Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte

TAKSI BUS

CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije

Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

Restaurant Faust VranËi Ê

Panoramic View Panoramski pogled

Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila

Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica

Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica

Coffee Bar Kavana

Customs Control Carinska kontrola

Bar

Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina

Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks)

Newstand Novinarnica

Baggage Prtljaga

Passport Control Kontrola putovnica

Shops Prodavaonice

i i

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.

5.00 9.00 13.30 17.30

U DUBROVNIKU autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 75 minuta prije leta. Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova.

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 8.00 8.30 9.00 9.30 10.30 11.30 12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30 14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30 16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30 18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30 20.00

In DUBROVNIK airport buses leave 90 minutes before the ﬂight, and in ZADAR 75 minutes before the ﬂight. The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing. Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) - Zagreb (zraËna luka) - Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) Rijeka - Polazak u 15.30 sati.

Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) - Zagreb Airport - Departure at 5.00. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport - Rijeka - Departure at 15.30.

Flight Information Informacije o letovima Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb: Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb: 5.30 10.00 14.00 18.00

6.00 10.30 14.30 18.30

6.30 11.00 15.00 19.00

7.00 11.30 15.30 19.30

7.30 12.00 16.00 20.00

8.00 12.30 16.30

8.30 13.00 17.00

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, 098 472-539, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn. The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas. Autobusi iz ZAGREBA polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova. Bus departures in ZAGREB are an hour and a half prior for domestic ﬂights and two hours prior for international ﬂights.

CROATIA AIRLINES

157

WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL?

Ivan VukuπiÊ

Dragi putnici!

Svako putovanje novi je let, za duπu i tijelo. Every journey is a new ﬂight - for the body and soul.

Zahvaljujemo na prekrasnim fotografijama koje nam πaljete s vaπih putovanja. Pred nama je proljeÊe, po mnogima najljepπe godiπnje doba. Nadamo se da svoj odmor planirate s Croatia Airlinesom te vas pozivamo da nam πaljete svoje fotografije s neobiËnih i zanimljivih mjesta s putovanja. Poπaljite nam svoje fotografije uz jednu reËenicu u kojoj objaπnjavate zaπto volite putovati i sudjelujte u naπem nagradnom natjeËaju. Pobjednika Êemo nagraditi s dvije povratne aviokarte po izboru za neko od odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa, dok Êe dva dobitnika primiti poklon-pakete. Autoricu fotografije Martinu ©opiÊ odabrali smo kao najbolju u ovome broju te je nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa. Promidæbenim poklon-paketom nagradit Êemo Ines TriËkoviÊ i Ivana VukuπiÊa. Pozivamo vas da nam nastavite slati svoje fotografije jer vas i u iduÊem broju oËekuju vrijedne nagrade. Posjetite naπu web stranicu www.croatiaairlines.hr (Ponude/Nagradne igre i natjeËaji), pogledajte uvjete nagradnog natjeËaja i sudjelujte!

Ines TriËkoviÊ

Dear passengers!

Volim putovanja jer ona spajaju ljude i kulture te nas obogaÊuju na naËine kakve ne moæemo ni sanjati. I like to travel because it connects people and cultures and enriches us in ways we cannot even dream about.

Thank you for the wonderful photographs you have been sending us from your travels. Spring is ahead of us; according to many - the most beautiful season. We hope you are planning your vacations with Croatia Airlines and invite you to send us your photographs taken at unusual and interesting travel destinations. Send us your photos accompanied by a sentence which explains why you like travelling and take part in the photo contest. We will award the ﬁrst prize winner with two return tickets on Croatia Airlines to a destination of your choice, while the second and third place winners will receive promotional packages. We have selected Martina ©opiÊ as the author of the best photo in this issue; she is the winner of two Croatia Airlines return tickets. Ines TriËkoviÊ and Ivan VukuπiÊ have won our promotional packages. We would like to invite you to continue sending us your photographs because valuable awards await you in the next issue, too. Visit our web page www.croatiaairlines.hr (Offers/Contests and competitions), see the conditions, and take part in the contest!

Martina ©opiÊ

»ak i tijekom zore, stranci se pretvaraju u prijatelje. Even at dawn, strangers turn into friends.

158

CROATIA AIRLINES

Dubrovnik Card

Special tourist discount card Available at all Tourist Information Ofﬁces, Cultural Institutions, Hotels & Travel Agencies

DailyCard

3-dayCard

WeeklyCard

ONLY 150,00 kn

ONLY 200,00 kn

ONLY 250,00 kn

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions and 24 h public transport rides

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions and 10 public transport rides

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions and 20 public transport rides

No charge for children up to 12 years old

www.dubrovnikcard.com Includes free entrance to City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin DræiÊ, Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, DulËiÊ-Masle-Pulitika Gallery and discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car, souvenir shops... CROATIA AIRLINES

159

ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 6160 153 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/uprava@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 072-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 18:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 15:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept. Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 072 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Brojevi telefonskog check-ina / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Bruxelles 1930 Zaventem/Brussels Airport Box 31 Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik ZraËna luka/Airport Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt 60 313 Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London Concorde North Wing, Gatwick Airport Room 332, West Sussex RH6 0DW Tel. (+44-20) 8563-0022, Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615 Airport Heathrow, Terminal 1, Zone H Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-4683 Fax (+44-20) 8754-7377 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr München 85 356 München Flughafen/Airport Terminal 2, Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Büro 4.1322 Tel. (+49-89) 975-92-730 Fax (+49-89) 975-92-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr

160

CROATIA AIRLINES

ADDRESSES Paris 95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Roissypôle Le Dôme, Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-40-00 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-55-11 parto@croatiaairlines.hr Pula ZraËna luka/Airport Pula Valtursko polje 210, 52 100 Ližnjan Tel. (+385-52) 218-909, 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka 51 000 Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5 Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma 00054 Fiumicino Aeroporto/Airport Leonardo da Vinci Torre Ufﬁci 2, room 518 Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo 71 000 Sarajevo ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skopje 1000 Skopje ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 3296-967, 3296-969 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split 21 000 Split ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar 23 000 Zadar ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb 10 000 Zagreb Trg Nikole Š, Zrinskog 17 Tel. (+385-1) 481--96-33 Fax (+385-1) 481-96-32 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Meunarodna zraËna luka Zagreb/ Zagreb International Airport Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 62-65-930 Zürich Tel. (+41-44) 261-08-40 Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe »eπka CK Blue Sky Travel Opletalova 57, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. +420 222 222 235 Fax +420 222 220 237 czech@croatiaairlines.hr GrËka / Greece Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str., 105 57 Athens Tel. +30 210 32 17 679, 32 17 750 Fax +30 210 32 49 152 greece@croatiaairlines.hr

Kosovo Airtour Bill Clinton 32, 10031 Prishtina Tel. +381 38 233 833 Fax +381 38 245 845 kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr Airtour Prishtina International Airport Tel. +381 38 594 111 Fax +381 38 594 222 kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr Portugal ATR - Actividades Turisticas e Representações Av. D. João II, Lt. 1.16.1 - 8º Andar, 1990-083 Lisboa Tel. +351 21 761 89 80 Fax +351 21 425 24 12 croatiaairlines@atr.co.pt SlovaËka CK Blue Sky Travel Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel./fax +421 2 5262 2375 slovakia@croatiaairlines.hr Španjolska / Spain Global Representacion Turistica / GRT c/Valencia, 266, 4, 1, 08007 Barcelona Tel. +34 934 875 775 Fax +34 934 880 121 spain@croatiaairlines.hr Turska ZENITH Services Ordu Caddesi, No. 12/1, Laleli Fatih 34134 Istanbul Tel. +90 212 513 2667, gsm +90 533 738 8470 Fax +90 212 512 4234 turkey@croatiaairlines.hr ZENITH Services Istanbul Ataturk Airport Tel. +90 212 465 5023 Fax +90 212 465 4092 turkey@croatiaairlines.hr Bliski istok Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda Street, Migdalor blgd. 12th ﬂoor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. +972 3 516 7181, 516 7140 Fax +972 3 516 7174 israel@croatiaairlines.hr Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. +61 3 9699-9355, Fax +61 3 9699-9388 lidia@skyair.biz Novi Zeland / New Zealand CTtravel Limited NZ PO Box 104-056, Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Rd. Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. +64 9 837 9897 Fax +64 9 837 9898 croatiaairlines@cttravel.co.nz Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo, 105-0001 Japan Tel. +81 3 3593 6740 Fax +81 3 3593 6534 asipaxtyo@airsystem.jp Koreja / Korea Bohram Air Services 7F, Donghwa Bldg, 58-7 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: +82 2 754 6336 Fax: +82 2 779 8795 customersupport@croatiaairlines.co.kr Tajvan, Kina, Hong Kong / Taiwan, China, Hong Kong Paciﬁc Express Company Limited 8F, No 137, Nanking E. Road Sec. 2, Taipei, Taiwan, R.O.C. Tel: +886 2 2515 2371 Fax: +886 2 2515 3463 pcpnexpr@ms23.hinet.net

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Dubrovnik's new stars

Opening in spring 2014

Enrich your Dubrovnik experience with two completely refurbished premium hotels. Enjoy the amazing sights offered by Valamar Dubrovnik President, the ďŹ&#x201A;agship 5 star hotel with luxurious comfortable rooms and suites, great gastro and wellness experiences and its own tranquil beach. The 4 star Valamar Argosy offers a quiet seaside retreat in the midst of aromatic Mediterranean gardens, indoor and outdoor pools and great wellness features. Both properties are located just minutes from the old town of Dubrovnik on the peaceful peninsula of Babin Kuk.

www.valamar.com/dubrovnik2014

Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel 5* Photos are for illustration purposes only. Project is subject to permits and master plans.

Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel 5*

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Valamar Argosy Hotel 4*

3/12/14 2:05 PM