Inflight magazine by Croatia Airlines

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12/14/11

3:31 AM

CROATIA PUTNI »ASOPIS n

INFLIGHT MAGAZINE

P U T N I

» A S O P I S

Z I M A

I N F L I G H T

W I N T E R

ZIMA

VA© VLASTITI PRIMJERAK

M A G A Z I N E

2 0 1 1 / 2 0 1 2

YOUR PERSONAL COPY

WINTER 2011/2012

Ideas are Better when Shared Sheraton is where colleagues gather. Welcome to the Sheraton Zagreb Hotel, where we’ll help you make the event you’re envisioning a reality. 14 meeting rooms and a 617-square meter Grand Ballroom are just what you need to plan a successful and memorable event.

sheraton.com/zagreb or +385 1 455 3535

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DOBRO DO©LI U ZRAKOPLOV!

WELCOME ABOARD!

D. FabijaniÊ

Poπtovani putnici!

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Direktor/President & C.E.O. SreÊko ŠimunoviÊ

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ΔulumoviÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ

Uredniπtvo/Editorial staff Silvana Jakuπ, –uro TomljenoviÊ, Ksenija ÆlofRoman Gebauer, Miljen

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ PrliÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek

Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o.

Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26

Na kraju smo godine u kojoj smo zabiljeæili rekordne prometne uËinke. Iskreno vam zahvaljujem na povjerenju i nadam se kako Êemo i u sljedeÊoj godini ispuniti vaπa oËekivanja. PodsjeÊam kako je Croatia Airlines jedini avioprijevoznik u Hrvatskoj koji leti 364 dana u godini i pritom povezuje sve hrvatske regije te Hrvatsku sa svijetom. U 2012. g. kompaniju oËekuju veliki izazovi, ali i dalje smo odluËni u namjeri da ostanemo prepoznatljivi po kvaliteti usluge na zemlji i u zraku, sigurnosti letaËkih operacija i povoljnim cijenama karata. Naπu ponudu veÊ smo obogatili u ovome zimskom redu letenja uvoenjem izravnih letova Dubrovnik − Pariz, a odnedavno vam moæemo preporuËiti i naπe nove internetske stranice, joπ funkcionalnije i preglednije. I u ovom broju naπega putnog Ëasopisa otkrit Êete, vjerujemo, mnoge teme koje Êe vas zanimati. Objavljujemo razgovor s proslavljenim tenorom svjetskoga glasa Plácidom Domingom, koji je u Zagrebu odræao sjajan koncert. Vodimo vas u otmjenu staru damu, Opatiju, koja zimi odiπe osobitim πarmom. Ugoaj toplijega i sunËanijeg dijela godine doËarat Êe vam tekst o otoku Zlarinu, koji je, kaæu, i otok vikendaπa. A buduÊi da je pred nama blagdansko razdoblje, objavljujemo i nekoliko prigodnih tema. Bor s nama, natjeËaj je mladih dizajnera i izloæba njihovih maπtovitih radova, postavljena u Hrvatskom druπtvu dizajnera u Zagrebu. Piπemo i o Bogorodici. Takoer, vodimo vas i u Rim. Pogled na naπe dugogodiπnje odrediπte otvaramo ovaj put iz drugog rakursa − predstavljamo, naime, novi suvremeni Rim… Kraj zime i dolazak proljeÊa obiljeæava vrijeme poklada. Put nas je odveo u TurËiπÊe, pa su stranice naπeg lista æivopisno oslikale meimurske maπkare… Eto, dragi putnici, to su samo neke od tema, a nadamo se da Êe listanje naπeg Ëasopisa pridonijeti tome da se dobro i opuπteno osjeÊate u naπem zrakoplovu. Vama i vaπima najmilijima od srca Ëestitam BoæiÊ! U novoj 2012. godini æelim vam dobro zdravlje, mir i blagostanje te uspjeh na svakom podruËju. Nadamo se da Êemo se joπ ËeπÊe sretati u zrakoplovima CTN-a, a mi Êemo i dalje nastojati da vam letovi s nama proteknu ugodno.

Dear passengers! We are coming to the end of yet another record breaking year. I sincerely thank you for your trust with a hope that we may continue to meet your expectations in the next year. Let me remind you that Croatia Airlines is the only airline carrier in Croatia which operates flights 364 days a year and connects all Croatian regions as well as Croatia with the rest of the world. The company expects to face major challenges in 2012, but we are still determined in our intent to remain recognizable for the quality of our ground and in-flight services, the safety of our flying operations and favourable ticket pricing. We have already enriched our winter flying offer by launching a direct Dubrovnik-Paris service. Moreover, as of recently, we have redesigned our web pages to make them even more functional and user-friendly. In this issue of our in-flight magazine you will again

discover many interesting topics. One of them is an interview with the globally renowned tenor Plácido Domingo who held a splendid concert in Zagreb. We are taking you to the dignified old lady, Opatija, a resort that exudes a special winter charm. The atmosphere of the warmer and sunnier part of the year will be conjured up by the story of Zlarin, also known as the island of weekend holiday makers. As I write this, we are heading towards the holiday season, hence a few appropriately toned topics. Christmas Tree With Us is a story about a competition for young designers and an exhibition of their imaginative works on display at the Croatian Designers’ Association in Zagreb. We also write about Our Lady and we take you to Rome. Our long-standing destination is presented from a different perspective − what we discover for you is the new, contemporary facet of Rome. The end of winter and the beginning of spring is a carnival season. Our travels have taken us to TurËiπÊe and the colourful masks of Meimurje that you will find on the pages of our magazine. These, dear passengers, are just some of the topics. We sincerely hope that leafing through our magazine will make your flight even more comfortable and relaxed. I wish you and your dearest ones a merry Christmas. May the new year 2012 bring you good health, peace, prosperity and a lot of successes. I hope that we will see you on Croatia Airlines flights even more often than before. On our part, we shall endeavour to make your flying experience with us pleasant and comfortable as possible.

Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec Tisak/Print

Vaš, Sincerely yours,

Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

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■ SADRÆAJ 6

Razgovor: Plácido Domingo

OPERA JE STRAST I RADOST

Proslavljeni tenor Plácido Domingo potkraj listopada odræao u je Zagrebu gala koncert. Doputovao je zrakoplovom Croatia Airlinesa. 14 Baština

ALKEMIJA TIŠINE LUDBREŠKOG DVORCA

Ludbreπki dvorac odiπe alkemijskom tiπinom. Kad uemo u to veliko zdanje, osjetit Êemo titraj pradavnih vremena, πto zaustavlja ubrzanost vanjskog svijeta. 28 Kontinentalna Hrvatska

PLEŠIVI»KA VINSKA CESTA, VINA S OSUN»ANIH AMFITEATARA

PleπiviËki osunËani amﬁteatri zasaeni su vinovom lozom. Doite i uživajte... 36 Muzeji

FEUDALNA PROŠLOST U STUBI»KOJ DOLINI

U Muzeju seljaËkih buna u Gornjoj Stubici uprizorene su teme iz feudalne proπlosti Zagorja, iz razdoblja u kojemu su kmetovi i vlastelini æivjeli svoju svakodnevicu. 46 Obala

OPATIJA, JEDNA I JEDINSTVENA

Wellness centri, jedriliËarske regate, maskenbali, kongresi, koncerti, festivali… cijele se godine smjenjuju razlozi zbog kojih jednostavno morate biti u ovom gradu… 68 Otoci

ZLATNI OTOK BRNISTRE I SMILJA

NOVI RIM

BOGORODICA

Prema novozavjetnim tekstovima Marija se rijeËima Neka mi bude po rijeËi tvojoj, potpuno predala i posvetila Bogu svoj æivot. Poslije devet mjeseci, 25. prosinca, slavi se BoæiÊ… 108 Dizajn

BOR S NAMA

I ove godine od 10. prosinca do 7. sijeËnja, u Galeriji HDD, dizajneri demonstriraju golem, iznova pronaen, potencijal za igru, stvaranje i komunikaciju. 112 Inovacije

CONCEPT ONE: NAJBRÆI ELEKTRI»NI SUPER AUTOMOBIL NA SVIJETU

Na poznatome 64. salonu automobila u Frankfurtu predstavljen je luksuzni sportski automobil na struju nazvan Concept One, mladog inovatora Mate Rimca iz Samobora. 116 ObiËaji

POKLADE U ME–IMURJU

Kraj zime i dolazak proljeÊa vrijeme je poklada, kad se prirodni red obrÊe naglavce, da bi se mogao ponovno uspostaviti. 2

Zima/Winter 2011/2012

www.croatiaairlines.com

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■ CONTENTS 6

Interview: Plácido Domingo

OPERA IS PASSION AND JOY

The world renowned tenor Plácido Domingo held a gala concert in Zagreb at the end of October. He travelled onboard Croatia Airlines. 14 Heritage

THE LUDBREG CASTLE’S ALCHEMY OF SILENCE

The Ludbreg Castle exudes an alchemical silence. Inside this great ediﬁce, vibrations of antiquity bring the urban world outside to a standstill. 28 Inland Croatia

PLEŠIVICA WINE ROAD, WINES FROM SUNNY AMPHITHEATRES

The Pleπivica sunny amphitheatres are planted with grape vines. Come and enjoy... 36 Museums

THE FEUDAL PAST OF STUBICA VALLEY

In the Peasants’ Revolt Museum in Gornja Stubica themes from Zagorje’s feudal past are enacted, from the period in which the serfs and noblemen lived their daily lives. 46 Coast

OPATIJA, THE ONE AND ONLY

Wellness centres, sailing regattas, costume balls, congresses, concerts, festivals − throughout the year events follow each other back to back, making this city a must-visit. 68 Islands

GOLDEN ISLAND OF BROOM AND IMMORTELLE

The island of Zlarin is situated less than half-anhour’s sail on Tijat from the port of ©ibenik. Zlarin has managed to preserve its serenity, its scented ﬁelds, without mega hotels and with few interventions in the local architecture. 82 Our destinations

NEW ROME

Despite its illustrious history, Rome does not rest on the laurels of the past. Indeed, in the last ten years capital architectural projects have either been completed or are nearing completion. 94 Tradition

MOTHER OF GOD

According to the New Testament, using the words Let it be to me according to your word, Mary totally surrendered and devoted her life to God. After nine months, on 25 December, the Catholic believers celebrate Christmas. 108 Design

CHRISTMAS TREE WITH US

From 10 December to 7 January, in the gallery of HDD, designers demonstrate their tremendous potential to play, create and communicate. 112 Innovations

CONCEPT ONE, THE FIRST ELECTRIC SUPERCAR IN THE WORLD

At the prestigious 64th Frankfurt Motor Show, the young innovator Mate Rimac from Samobor presented his luxury electric sports car, the socalled Concept One. 116 Customs

CARNIVAL IN ME–IMURJE

The end of winter and the coming of spring is the period of carnival, a time when the natural order is turned upside down, only to be restored again when carnival is over. 4

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak

This is your personal copy

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Damir FabijaniÊ

■ RAZGOVOR: PLÁCIDO DOMINGO

Piπe/By Ante BatinoviÊ

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Fotograﬁje/Photos Cropix

INTERVIEW: PLÁCIDO DOMINGO ■

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Proslavljeni tenor Plácido Domingo potkraj listopada odræao u je Zagrebu gala koncert. Doputovao je iz Omana, u kojemu je otvorio Kraljevsku opernu kuÊu, preko Münchena, zrakoplovom Croatia Airlinesa. Poslije trodnevnog boravka u hrvatskome glavnom gradu odletio je u London, takoer naπim zrakoplovom. Jedini intervju dao je novinaru i uredniku HTV-a Anti BatinoviÊu. LjubaznoπÊu HRT-a razgovor s maestrom Domingom objavljujemo i u naπem Ëasopisu. The world renowned tenor Plácido Domingo held a gala concert in Zagreb at the end of October. He travelled from Oman, where he had opened the Kings Opera House, via Munich onboard Croatia Airlines. After his three day stay in Croatia’s capital city, he ﬂew to London, also onboard our aircraft. He gave an interview to journalist and editor of HTV, Ante BatinoviÊ. The interview with maestro Domingo has been published in our magazine, courtesy of HRT. 8

ala koncert Plácida Dominga u velebnoj zagrebaËkoj Areni bio je najavljivan kao kulturni dogaaj godine u nas. Bez obzira na to πto Êe odluËiti kulturna javnost u godiπnjim anketama, ne bi se moglo reÊi da je najava koncerta bila samo pretjerani marketinπki trik. Daleko od toga… Prije prvog pokusa sa ZagrebaËkim filharmoniËarima sreo se s novinarima na konferenciji za novinare u druπtvu dirigenta Eugena Kohna, uglednih goπÊa, pjevaËica Angel Blue i Micaele Oeste i hrvatske pop-zvijezde Tonyja Cetinskog. Bio je tako susretljiv da je, iako nakon dugog putovanja, dao intervju cijeli sat prije dogovorena vremena kako bi ga, na primjer, gledatelji Dnevnika HTV-a vidjeli Ëim prije. Na intervju je, u poseban salon jednoga zagrebaËkog hotela, doπao toËno u sekundu. Dobro raspoloæen i bez pratnje stilista, πminkera i sliËnih asistenata koje imaju pop i rock-zvijezde na snimanju televizijskih intervjua. ■ Maestro, treÊi ste put u Hrvatskoj, ali prvi put u Zagrebu. Nastupali ste na Prokurativama u Splitu i u pulskoj Areni. Kakva su Vaπa iskustva s prethodnih gostovanja? Pretpostavljam da to πto ste pozvali kao gosta hrvatskog pjevaËa Tonyja Cetinskog nije samo protokolarnog obiljeæja… - Znam da ljudi u Hrvatskoj veoma vole glazbu, vole operu i, dakako, imam osobito lijepe uspomene na neke operne pjevaËice. Zinku Kunc, na primjer, kojoj se uvelike divim. Tu je i Biserka CvejiÊ, takoer roena u Hrvatskoj. Ima tu joπ pjevaËa ali ne znam, nisam siguran tko je odakle. Svakako, Hrvatska je predivna zemlja, publika je veoma topla i veselim se nastupu u Zagrebu, koji je reprezentativan na svjetskoj glazbenoj sceni. Kako u Zagrebu nastupam u velikoj Areni pred mnogo ljudi, koncert Êe biti kombinacija klasiËnog repertoara, operetnih arija, zarzuele, Broadwaya. Naime, kad imate mnogo publike, onda morate znati da ona dolazi uæivati u razliËitoj glazbi. ■ ImajuÊi na umu Vaπ golem posao, da ste velika operna zvijezda ali istodobno i direktor opernih kuÊa u Washingtonu i Los Angelesu, dirigent i veliki promicatelj novih talenata, da aktivno radite na povezivanju filmske i operne umjetnosti, a jedanput ste istaknuli i kako su opera i film prirodno povezani, osjeÊate li se kao renesansni Ëovjek, neπto kao Leonardo da Vinci, s obzirom na to da ste viπestruko nadareni i neprestano u potrazi za novim iskustvima i spoznajama… - Nije na meni da to kaæem, radio sam mnogo razliËitih stvari. Na ljudima je poput vas i na publici da ocijeni umjetnika. Mi, kad poËnemo

karijeru, ne znamo koliko Êemo daleko dospjeti u tome glazbenom businessu. Publika je ta koja vas otkrije i daje vam odreeni status. Dakle, da budem prepoznat kao jedan od popularnih pjevaËa opere. To s vremenom raste. Ali publika je ta koja vam to moæe dati, koja vas moæe prepoznati i dati vam titule. Vi samo radite neπto πto je vaπa predivna strast, vaπa velika ljubav, znate. Radite neπto πto je na neki naËin…samo kaæem da smo vrlo sretni i povlaπteni πto radimo sve to πto radimo. Jer, usreÊujemo publiku, Ëinimo da zaborave svoje probleme za to vrijeme dok su s nama, tako da je to sjajno. ■ Ali, Maestro, Vi niste samo operna zvijezda, niste samo operni pjevaË, to sam htio istaknuti. - Ono πto vrijedi pred ljudima jest to kako nastupate. Ostalo je druga vrsta ljubavi. Moji su roditelji, dok sam nastupao, imali sklonosti prema zarzueli. Posljednjih godina angaæiran sam oko administracije i umjetniËke organizacije opera u Washingtonu i Los Angelesu. To mi donosi veliko zadovoljstvo, ali najvaænije je kad nastupate pred publikom, bilo da pjevate ili dirigirate. ■ Slaæete li se s procjenom da ste umjetnik sa zaËudnom kombinacijom nordijske radne etike i mediteranskog temperamenta, πto je vrlo rijetko, ne samo meu opernim pjevaËima? - Disciplina mi je veoma vaæna. Vjerujem da je to poπtovanje prema onome πto radite i u tome æelim biti Nordijac, ali ne mogu si pomoÊi πto nisam i mediteranski tip, poput vas. Hrvatska je takoer dio Mediterana, pa su i stanovnici Hrvatske Mediteranci. Imate prelijepi Dubrovnik, grad koji masovno posjeÊuju turisti. Nadam se da se tako neÊe naπtetiti Dubrovniku. Razumljivo, morate æivjeti od turizma i imati mnogo turista. To je veoma delikatna stvar, imate prekrasna mjesta, ali morate paziti da vam turisti ne preplave zemlju. ■ Veoma Ëesto novinari Vas izravno pitaju kad Êete u mirovinu ili u kojim bi godinama æivota tenor trebao/morao prestati nastupati. »ak su vas pitali o konkretnom datumu odlaska u mirovinu, odnosno kad Êete prestati pjevati. Meni je to u najmanju ruku neukusno. I ne samo pitati Vas, nego bilo kojeg umjetnika, bez obzira na umjetnost kojom se bavi. Negdje sam proËitao da ste izjavili kako ste se i prihvatili posla administratora opera u Washingtonu i Los Angelesu, jer jednoga Êete dana prestati pjevati. Kako tu temu komentirate, osjeÊate, doæivljavate? - Prije mnogo godina poËeo sam razmiπljati o tome. Rekao sam sebi, moæda je vrijeme da prestanem pjevati i poËnem planirati odlazak

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u mirovinu u 55. godini… Onda su doπle te godine i shvatio sam da joπ mogu pjevati i, dakako, nastavio sam pjevati. I joπ nastavljam, pjevam evo i danas (Plácidu Domingu 70 je godina, nap.a.). Jednostavno ne volim govoriti o datumima. Volim u ovakvim situacijama i razmiπljanjima reÊi da neÊu pjevati ni dana viπe nego πto bih trebao. Ali ni dan manje no πto bih mogao. Dakle, vidjet Êemo πto Êe biti. ■ Dosad ste tumaËili 136 opernih uloga, viπe nego i jedan drugi operni pjevaË. Vjerojatno je teπko, ali ipak, molim Vas, recite koja Vam je uloga najdraæa, a koji lik najomraæeniji i zaπto. Navodno Rasputina, u najmanju ruku, ne volite? - Dakako, kod likova moæda ne volite one poput Rasputina, vojvodu od Mantove, neke uloge koje su negativne… Pinkertona. Ali teπko mi je izdvojiti najdraæi lik zato πto sam ih mnogo pjevao. To je jedini razlog. Jednako je to kao i s latinskoameriËkim obiteljima koje katkad imaju po desetero, dvadesetero djece. I kad ih pitate koje im je dijete najdraæe, i to im je veoma teπko. Imam cijelu listu izvrsnih uloga: Otelo, Hoffman, Siegmund, Chenier, Herman… To je popis od barem dvadeset uloga, ili dvadeset i pet, za koje mogu reÊi da ih veoma volim, oboæavam ih. ■ A ona najmanje draga, u ulozi kojega negativnog lika? - Mislim da sam spomenuo tri uloge u prethodnom odgovoru, koje su negativne. Ali morate i to odraditi. TumaËio sam joπ jednu, svjetsku premijeru, koja je napisana za mene, Divinas palabras, ulogu Lucera. Lik nije bio baπ dobar, ali morate glumiti razliËite likove. Trudim se izbjegavati negativne likove. Ipak, katkad vas i to zadesi. ■ Poznata mi je Vaπa sklonost popularnoj glazbi, kako staroj, tako i novijoj, ali o tome Êemo poslije. Je li istina, kako se navodi u Wikipediji, da ste u poËetku karijere, negdje u Meksiku, pjevali prateÊe vokale u nekom rock-bandu? To je navodno bilo 1958. godine. Rock-band zvao se Los Black Jeans, a vodio ga je Cesar Costa. ZvuËi popriliËno neobiËno, jer nije poznat ni jedan sliËan podatak iz Vaπe karijere. - Da, voa banda zvao se Cesar Costa. Da, tako je. Morao sam raditi za æivot, pa sam pjevao i prateÊe vokale u rock-bandu. Bila je to poznata pjesma koju je pjevao …ma tko je to u SAD-u pjevao? Paul Anka ili netko drugi… Put Your Head On My Shoulder (Maestro pjeva, nap.a.). ■ Jeste li uæivali u pjevanju pjesme Paula Anke s bandom Los Black Jeans Cesara Coste? Ili je to bilo onako viπe silom prilika, nego milom? - Uæivam u svemu πto radim s glazbom. Bez

obzira na to πto sam u tom trenutku to morao napraviti, i jesam. ■ Je li to bio Vaπ jedini kontakt s rockglazbom? Niste nikad imali suradnju poput Montserrat Caballé s Freddyjem Mercuryjem? - Snimio sam mnogo stvari, ali ne mislim da je baπ bilo rocka. Snimio sam mnogo balada, ameriËke glazbe, pogotovo starije latinske glazbe, koju oboæavam. ■ Prvi sam put s Vama razgovarao u Barceloni 1992. u Gran Teatru del Liceu, tri dana prije sveËanog otvorenja Olimpijskih igara, na kojemu ste nastupali s Caballé i Joséom Carrerasom. Govorili smo o operi na sportskim stadionima i vaπoj sklonosti sluπanja pop-glazbe, posebice Michaela Jacksona. Tom ste mi prilikom rekli i da biste æeljeli snimiti duet s Vama omiljenom pop-zvijezdom Mariah Carey. Na moj upit biste li isto æeljeli s Madonnom, niste baπ bili oduπevljeni. Imate li sliËnih æelja ili razmiπljate o toj temi i danas? - Moæda i nisam baπ tako rekao… Moæda je to bio neki teæak trenutak kad je Madonna radila neπto πto je bila meta kritika ili sliËno. Mislim da bih danas pjevao s njom. I s Mariah Carey i … kako se ono zove, ona poznata… Beyoncé, Céline Dion, dakako. Ako je trenutak pravi, pjesma prava i razlozi pravi, uËinio bih to, zaπto ne? ■ Kako komentirate to što je u britanskoj inaËici televizijskog Talent showa pobijedio pjevaË koji je izveo Nessun dorma? Mislite li, poput nekih, da je to neπto poput oskvrnuÊa opere i klasiËne glazbe? Takoer, prije dvadesetak godina, kad su se pojavila Tri tenora i kad ste pjevali na sveËanim otvaranjima Svjetskih nogometnih prvenstava, bilo je oπtrih kritika izvoenja opere i klasike u takvim eksterijerima. Govorilo se i o oskvrnuÊu opere i klasiËne glazbe. Istina, bilo je to prije dvadesetak godina ali… - Mislim kako je izvrsno πto se opere izvode na stadionima jer to znaËi da smo stekli mnogo nove publike. Isto tako i to πto na televiziji u Talent showima pobjeuju mnogi izvodeÊi dijelove opera, to je opet dobro. Moæda ne znam mogu li ti ljudi zaista otpjevati operu bez mikrofona, ali barem se repertoar popularizira… Dogodilo se takoer viπe puta, ne jedanput, vidio sam u razliËitim dijelovima svijeta da mnogi pjevaËi crossovera pobjeuju pjevajuÊi neπto operno. Ja to ne kritiziram. Ja Ëinim i puπtam da bude Ëinjeno. To je moj postulat, ja ne kritiziram nikoga. ■ U meuvremenu opera u pravoj opernoj kuÊi ostaje izvedba za povlaπtene. Ulazni-

ce su skupe, i vi ste jedanput rekli da je opera skupa, ali da su operni pjevaËi jeftini. Moæete li to objasniti? Vi ste i pjevaË na pozornici, ali i administrator u operi. - Rekao sam, ako usporedite kako je teπko ono πto operni pjevaË mora izvesti − ne govorim to za sebe, radio sam mnoge druge stvari ∑ pjevati tako teπke uloge i pjevati po cijelome svijetu, to je veoma skupo. Ali najjeftiniji su u svemu tome pjevaËi. PjevaËi stoje najmanje. Opera je vrlo skupa i smatram da pjevaËi nedovoljno zarauju. Veoma je teπko æivjeti samo od opere. Ako pjevaË ode u mirovinu u dobi od 50 ili 55 godina, i treba æivjeti joπ tridesetak… to nije tako jednostavno. Usporedite li koliko zarauju pop-pjevaËi i bandovi s onim πto zarade operni pjevaËi, operni pjevaËi zaista nisu dobro plaÊeni. Ali, opera jest najskuplja. ■ UnatoË slaboj plaÊenosti, kako kaæete, opernih pjevaËa, mnogi mladi hoÊe upravo pjevati u operi. Mnogim mladim talentima nesebiËno pomaæete. Vremena se mijenjaju, nadolaze svaki dan novi oblici i zabave i umjetnosti, ali opera ne prestaje biti privlaËna svakom novom naraπtaju. U Ëemu je tajna privlaËnosti opere, u krajnjem sluËaju i za Vas osobno? - Opera je strast, opera je radost, ona vas dirne u srce i duπu, pobuuje osjeÊaje, natjera vas da neko vrijeme odete u drugi, izmiπljeni svijet. I to je sjajno, povlastica je raditi to. ■

lácido Domingo’s gala concert in Zagreb’s magnificent Arena was announced in our magazine as the cultural event of the year. Regardless of what will be decided by the cultural public in the annual survey, one could not say that the announcement of the concert was only hype and a marketing trick. It was far from that... Prior to the first rehearsal with the Zagreb Philharmonic Orchestra, Domingo and conductor Eugene Kohn met with journalists at a press conference, they were also accompanied by prestigious guests such as singer Angel Blue and Micaela Oeste and Croatian pop star Tony Cetinski. He was so accommodating that even after coming from a long trip he gave the interview an entire hour ahead of the scheduled time so that the viewers of the evening news, Dnevnik HTV, could see him as soon as possible. He appeared precisely on time for the interview, which was held in a special room in one of Zagreb’s hotels. He was in a great mood and came without the usual entourage that pop and rock stars have when filming television interviews, such as stylists, make-up artists and other assistants. ■ Maestro, this is your third time in Croatia, but first time in Zagreb. You have CROATIA AIRLINES

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performed on Prokurative in Split and in the Arena in Pula. What were your experiences from your previous appearances? I assume it was not just because of protocol that you invited Croatian singer Tony Cetinski to appear as a guest... - I know that people in Croatia love music very much, they admire opera and, of course, I have especially wonderful memories of some female opera singers, for example Zinka Kunc, who I admire very much, and Biserka CvejiÊ, who was also born in Croatia. There are other singers, too, but I am not sure where they are all from. Certainly, Croatia is a beautiful country, the audience is very warm and I look forward to appearing in Zagreb, which is so representative on the world music scene. Since I will be performing in Zagreb in the great Arena in front of many people, the concert will be a combination of classical repertoires, operetta arias, zarzuelas and Broadway pieces. When you have such a big audience you have to understand that they have come to enjoy a variety of music. ■ Keeping in mind your incredible job that you are a great opera star, but at the same time you are also the director of the Washington and Los Angeles opera houses, a conductor and great promoter of new talent, and you actively work on making a connection between the arts of ﬁlm and opera, and once you pointed out that opera and ﬁlm are naturally connected - do you feel like a renaissance man, like Leonardo da Vinci, given that you are multi-talented and constantly looking for new experiences and insights... - It is not up to me to say. I have worked on so many various projects. It is up to people like you and the audiences to be the judge of every artist. When we start our careers we do not know how much we will accomplish in the music business. The audience is the one who discovers us and determines our status, that is, for me to be known as one of the popular opera singers. That grows with time. However, the audience is the one who can give that to you, who must recognize you and give you that title. You are only doing something that is your beautiful passion; your great love. You do something that in some way...I am only saying that we are very lucky and privileged to be doing what we are doing. We make the audience happy and they forget their problems during the time they are with us. That is wonderful. ■ However, Maestro, I would like to point out that you are not only an opera star and not only an opera singer. - What matters to the people is how you perform. The rest is another type of love. While 10

I performed, my parents had zarzuela and I love that. Last year I was engaged in the administrative and artistic organization of the Washington and Los Angeles opera houses. This gave me great pleasure, but the most important is when you perform in front of an audience, whether singing or directing. ■ Do you agree with the assessment that you are an artist with a wonderful combination of a Nordic work ethic and Mediterranean temperament, which is very rare, not only among opera singers? - Discipline is very important to me. I believe that this reflects a kind of respect toward what you do, and in that way I want to be Nordic, but I cannot help that I am also Mediterranean, just like you. Croatia is also a part of the Mediterranean and so the inhabitants of Croatia are Mediterraneans, too. You have the beautiful Dubrovnik, a city that is visited by masses of tourists. I hope that will not harm Dubrovnik. It is understandable that you have to live from tourism and have many tourists. That is a very delicate situation. You have an incredible place, but you have to be careful that tourists do not flood the country. ■ Very often journalists ask you directly when you will retire or at what age a tenor should stop performing. Once they even asked you to give an exact retirement date, that is, when you will stop singing. That is incredible distasteful to me, and not only in terms of you, but any artist regardless of what kind of art they are a part of. I read somewhere that you said you accepted the position as the administrator of the Washington and Los Angeles opera houses because you will stop singing one day. What are you comments, feelings and perceptions regarding this topic? - I started to think about that many years ago. I told myself that maybe it was time to stop singing and plan to retire at 55 years old... That time came and I realized that I could still sing and I continued, of course. I still perform. I am even singing today (Plácido Domingo is 70 years old). Therefore, I simply do not like to talk about dates. In these types of situations and reflections I love to say that I will not sing one day more than I should. But not a day less than what I can. And so, we will see what happens. ■ You have played 136 opera roles to date, more than any other opera singer. It is probably difficult to choose, but please tell us which role was your favourite and which character was the worst, and why. Apparently, you really dislike Rasputin, to say the least. - Of course, when it comes to characters, it is hard to warm up to the likes of Rasputin,

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the Duke of Mantua and some other negative roles...Pinkerton. But it is hard for me to choose my favourite character because I have played so many of them. That is one reason. That is the same as with a Latin American family which has ten to twenty children. When you ask them which child is their favourite, it is very difficult to answer. I have an entire list of excellent roles: Othello, Hoffman, Siegmund, Chenier, Herman...That is a list of at least twenty or twenty five roles for which I can say I liked them very much, even adored. ■ And the ones you liked less, the roles of negative characters? - I think that in my previous answer I mentioned three roles which are negative, but you have to do them also. I have interpreted one more, the role of Lucero in the world premiere of the opera Divinas Palabras, which was written for me. That character was not a very good person. However, I have to be a variety of characters. I try to avoid negative characters, but sometimes it happens. ■ I know your preferences for popular music, both old and new, but we will talk more about that later. Is it true, as we can read on Wikipedia, that at the beginning of your career you sang backup vocals in a rock band somewhere in Mexico? It was apparently in 1958. The rock band was called Los Black Jeans and was led by Cesar Costa. This sounds quite unusual because there is nothing similar to that in your career. - Yes, the leader of the band was named Cesar Costa. Yes, that is it. I had to work to survive, so I sang backup vocals in a rock band. We sang famous songs by...who is the one in the USA who sings that? Paul Anka or someone else...Put Your Head on My Shoulder. (the maestro sings the tune) ■ Did you enjoy singing Paul Anka songs with the band Los Black Jeans and Cesar Costa? Or was that more because you had to rather than you wanted to? - I enjoy everything I do that is connected to music, despite the fact that at that particular moment I had to do it, and I did. ■ Was that your only contact with rock music? Did you ever cooperate with someone like Montserrat Caballé and Freddy Mercury did? - I have recorded many things, but I do not think any were really rock songs. I recorded many ballads and American music, especially older Latin music, which I adore. ■ The first time I spoke with you was at the Grand Theatre of Liceu in Barcelona in 1992, three days after the opening ceremony of the Olympic Games where you

performed with Caballé and José Carreras. We discussed opera performances at sports stadiums and your preference for listening to pop music, especially Michael Jackson. On that occasion you said that you would like to record a duet with your favourite pop star, Mariah Carey. I asked you if you would also like to perform with Madonna, but you were not thrilled by the idea. Do you still feel the same about that topic today? - Perhaps I did not say it quite like that. Perhaps that was a difficult moment when Madonna was working on something that was the target of criticism or something. I think I would sing with her today; and with Mariah Carey and, what is her name, the famous one...Beyonce, and Celine Dion, of course. If the moment was right, and the song was right and the reasons were right, I would, why not? ■ Do you have anything to say about the British TV talent show Britain has got Talent in which the winner was a singer who performed Nessun dorma? Do you think, like many others do, that it was a sort of travesty on opera and classical music? Also, when the Three Tenors first appeared some twenty years ago and sang at the opening ceremony of the World Football Championship, there were harsh criticisms about performing opera and classical music at that type of venue. People talked about the desecration of opera and classical music. True, that was twenty years ago, but... - I think it is great that opera is performed at stadiums because that means we have reached many new audiences. The fact that many winners have performed parts of operas on the television talent shows is also very good. Perhaps we do not know if those people can really sing opera without a microphone, but at least they have made the songs more popular... I have also seen many times, not just once, that in different parts of the world many crossover singers have won by singing something from operas. I am not criticizing that. I do it myself and allow it to be done by others. That is my postulate, and I am not criticizing anyone. ■ In the meantime, opera in real opera houses has continued to be entertainment for the privileged few. Tickets are expensive, and once you said it yourself that opera is expensive but the opera singers are cheap. Could you explain that? You are a singer on the stage as well as an administrator in the opera. - I said that if you consider how difficult it is to do what the opera singers do − I am not

talking about myself, I have done many other things − singing such demanding roles and travelling the entire world to do so, that is very expensive. However, the cheapest part of an opera production are the singers. The singers cost the least. Opera is very expensive and I think the singers do not earn enough. It is very tough to live just from opera. If a singer retires at 50 or 55 years old, and they still have to live another thirty years...it is not that simple. If you compare how much rock stars and bands earn with the earnings of opera singers, the opera singers are really not well paid. However, opera is the most expensive. ■ In spite of the poor salaries earned by opera singers, as you said, many young people still want to sing in the opera. You unselfishly help many young talented people. Times are changing, everyday new forms of entertainment and art are developing, but opera has not stopped being attractive to every new generation. What is the secret appeal of opera, in general, and ultimately for you personally? - Opera is passion, opera is joy, it touches your heart and soul, awakens your emotions, forces you to enter some other, imaginary world, at least for a short time. That is what makes it so wonderful and a privilege to do. ■

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HRVATSKA Republika

To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËne obale Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do Panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2001. godine, 4,437.460 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima.

CROATIA Republic of

National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contribu-

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Izravne domaÊe linije Direct domestic routes Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines’ destinations stalne / regular sezonske zimske / seasonal in winter

............................................ Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica - kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (779.145 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. prosinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine.

This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. By the 2001 census, Croatia’s population is 4,437,460. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The ofﬁcial language is Croatian, and the ofﬁcial script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (779,145 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih zajedno Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova. 12

ted to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima iz svih razdoblja, zbog burnih povijesnih zbivanja i preplitanja utjecaja razliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karakteriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakralna baπtina, te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeuropskoga kulturnog kruga i istiËe se mnogim prapovijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka i kulturnim spomenicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine.

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A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of inﬂuences of different cultures. Its coast is characterized by the inﬂuences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monuments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous

prehistoric ﬁndings of world signiﬁcance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental com-plexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik. The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina - ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari - najveÊe turistiËko iznenaenje te hit odrediπte na Sredozemlju. Niz uspjeπnih godina nastavlja se ∑ suglasni su analitiËari turistiËkih prilika ∑ i u 2009. godini. Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska je turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, u priobalju te u kontinentalnom dijelu zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb,

u 2010. godini posjetilo oko 11,000.000 turista, od kojih je inozemnih bilo oko 9,400.000. Ostvareno je ukupno oko 56,400.000 noÊenja. Pritom je broj inozemnih noÊenja bio oko 50,700.000. Tradicionalno najbrojniji gosti, Nijemci, prvo su mjesto zadræali i u 2010. godini (22,5 %), a njih slijede gosti iz Slovenije (11,5 %), Italije (9,3 %), Austrije (8,7 %), »eπke (8,2 %), Poljske (5,7 %), Nizozemske (4,4 %)... Hoteli, turistiËka naselja, kampovi i sve druge vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim turistiËkim standardima. Bogata kulturna ponuda, wellness ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, mnogi kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih staza ili pak vinske staze, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledavanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti ili pak pravi spoj doæivljaja i avanturizma poveÊavaju adrenalin...

Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog njezine geograf ske bli zine, ne go i zbog mreæe zraË nih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa, kao i drugih zraËnih pri jevozni ka. Na te me lju mreæe au to ce sta i poluautocesta, Hrvatska je i cestom bliæa nego ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajek tom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe - i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji - manje od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od svakodnevice miljama i miljama daleko...

Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has been a hit destination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international experts in tourism. Tourist analysts are agre ed that a series of successful years is due to continue in 2010. According to data provided by the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, Croatian tourist destinations on the islands, coast and in the interior, including the capital Zagreb 2010 were visited by nearly 11 million tourists, of whom 9.4 million were foreign guests. The total number of overnight stays was more than 56.4 million, of which foreign visitors accounted for 50.7 million. The largest number of foreign guests came from Germany (22,5 %), followed by Slove nia (11,5 %), Italy (9,3 %), Austria (8,7 %), the Czech Republic (8,2 %), Poland (5,7 %) the Netherlands (4,4 %)... Hotels, tourist sites, camps and other types of accommodation, as well as modern nautical centers, are equipped in line with international tourism standards. There is a rich cultural of fer, together with wellness, spor ts, recreational and enter ta inment facilities, many kilometers of

well-kept footpaths or wine roads, excursions including sight-seeing of natural and cultural treasures, or the right combination of experience and adventure to raise the adrenalin level... Croatia is close by, not just geographically, but thanks to its airport network and the high-quality ser vice of its national air company, Croatia Airlines, besides other air companies. The network of newly built freeways and semi-freeways means that Croatia is easier to reach by road than ever. If you have chosen to spend your vacation on one of Croatia’s many islands, the crossing by ferry or hydrofoil boat will take you ∑ even for the most remote islands ∑ less than two hours. Yet their beauty and the immediate contact with virgin nature will be unforgettable, as if you were miles and miles away from the ever yday world...

Novac i naËin plaÊanja Kuna (kn) je naziv novËane jedinice Republike Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp) ∑ stoti dio kune. NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima - 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac - 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima. Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Kuna (kn). In circulation are banknotes in Kuna and coins in Kuna and Lipa (lp) ∑ one hundredth of a Kuna. The banknotes are issued in the following denominations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Kuna, while the denomination structure of the coins is 1, 2 and 5 Kuna and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Lipa (100 Lipa = 1 Kuna). Payments can be made by credit card (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard and Mastercard), as well as euro-checks. Cash can be withdrawn from ATMs.

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BAŠTINA HERITAGE ■

Piše/By Goran StojanoviÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Saša PjaniÊ

Ludbreπki dvorac odiπe alkemijskom tiπinom. Kad uemo u to veliko zdanje, osjetit Êemo titraj pradavnih vremena πto zaustavlja ubrzanost vanjskog svijeta. Ali prije ulaska u priËu o æivotu jedne spomeniËke baπtine, o ludbreπkom dvorcu Batthyány ili BaËani, kako ga nazivaju stanovnici tog kraja, treba zakoraËiti u izvornost naziva grada Ludbrega. The Ludbreg Castle exudes an alchemical silence. Inside this great ediﬁce, vibrations of antiquity bring the urban world outside to a standstill. Before embarking on the story about the life of a cultural heritage, the Ludbreg Batthyany Castle, or otherwise known by the locals as BaËani, we need to take a step back and discover the origin of the name Ludbreg. CROATIA AIRLINES

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z Ëega izvire izvor? Kako nastaje grad? Otkud potjeËe naziv naπih gradova? Iz kojih nadahnuÊa, legenda, zbivanja ili sjeÊanja? Rijetko se upitamo zaπto se naπa mjesta, gradovi, rijeke ili doline nazivaju tako kako ih piπemo ili izgovaramo. Ludbreg nije takav grad. Smjeπten u idiliËnoj podravskoj ravnici i na slikovitim breæuljcima kalniËkog kraja, duboko je povezan sa svojim povijesnim izvorom, zdencem iz kojega svaki dan crpi svoju snagu. U njemu je sadaπnjost dodirnuta povijeπÊu kroz dokumentirane tragove i vrijednosti koje iz njih izviru i koje se stoljeÊima prelijevaju u naslijee ovog kraja. Ludbreg vole njegovi graani, s njim æive, njega slave, o njemu govore dobronamjernim dolaznicima, putnicima i posjetiteljima koji to æele Ëuti. U njihovim povijesnim iskazima nema isticanja, natjecanja, uveliËavanja ili nadmaπivanja. PrisjeÊanja, memorijske zapise i anegdote iskazuju toplim rijeËima, bogatstvom tradicije i obiËajima koji se doæivljavaju tankoÊutnoπÊu istine koja boravi u svakome ljudskom biÊu. Ime grada, po navodima pavlina opata Honorisa iz Lepoglave, potjeËe od neke Ludberge ili Liutbergi, roene 1. travnja davne 1141. godine, kÊeri imuÊnog upravitelja imanja u sluæbi grofa Bele II. Nakon bezbriænog djetinjstva na obalama rijeke Bednje, njezina je mladost procvala rijetko vienom ljepotom. Obrazovana i prelijepa djevojka podlegla je tjelesnom iskuπenju, na koje ju je naveo mlad i stasit, ali neËastivi vitez Ulrik. Nakon mnogih godina æivota provedenih u kajanju i predanim molitvama te poærtvovno radeÊi kao sluæavka, ujedno pomaæuÊi bolesnima i siromaπnima te brinuÊi se o malenom sinu Theobaldu, Ludberga, nakon dugo vremena, napokon pronalazi mir u malenoj vinogradarskoj kuÊi, jednoj od mnogih koje joπ od rimskih vremena istiËu ljepotu vinorodnih breæuljaka toga kraja, obraujuÊi manji vinograd te praveÊi kvalitetno vino. Njezino vinogradarsko umijeÊe ubrzo postaje poznato u feudalnim kurijama, samostanima i æupnim dvorima. Vino je darivala samostanima te crkvama za misne obrede. Omiljena meu ljudima svog kraja, Ludberga je doæivjela duboku starost, a njezin roendan Ludbreæani i danas slave kao Dan Centra svijeta. Njezin sin Theobald poslije je postao priznati vinogradar, a umijeÊe je usavrπio u dalekoj ali i danas poznatoj prijestolnici vrhunskih vina ∑ Burgundiji. Ovdje su, u Ludbregu, i prema staroj legendi, u davna vremena tlocrtno opisani zemaljski obodi s vidljivo smjeπtenim europskim metropolama, koji i danas u srediπtu grada pokazuju pozicije svoga geografskog smjeπtaja. Zanimljivo je da Ludbreg, toËno na suprotnoj

strani planeta Zemlje, nedaleko od Novog Zelanda, ima svoj antipod, juænopacifiËki vulkanski otoËiÊ Antipodes. DijeleÊi tu osobitost sa svijetom, Ludbreg je prozvan Centrom svijeta ∑ Centrum mundi. PostojeÊa legenda potiËe znatiæelju i istraæivaËku strast, pa se njome u 18. stoljeÊu pozabavio i Kazimir BedekoviÊ (1727.-1782.), domaÊi matematiËar, fiziËar, teolog, filozof te pisac i veliki promicatelj Newtonove teorije. Tu svakako treba istaknuti i roenog Ludbreæanina Rudolfa Fizira (1891.-1960.), jednoga od najpoznatijih konstruktora zrakoplova joπ u njihovo pionirsko doba razvoja. Ipak, najzasluæniji za iznimnost otkriÊa i njegovu meunarodnu promidæbu jest πvicarski mudroslovac i filozof dr. Erasmus Weddingen, veliki prijatelj Ludbrega. Taj povjesniËar umjetnosti, filozof i restaurator, entuzijast postmoderne, razvio je mirakulsku priËu o Ludbregu kao srediπtu svijeta. Stoga i danas Ludbreæani s veseljem iskazuju svoju Ëasnu poziciju na geografskom atlasu sloganom: Neka pati kome smeta, baπ Ludbreg je centar svijeta! Ludbreg s neobiËno dugom i bogatom proπloπÊu doslovce leæi na zidinama rimskoga grada Castra Ioviae Botivo. Kao jedno od najvaænijih rimskih naselja u dolini Drave, na antiËkom putu od slovenske Poetoviae (Ptuja) prema Mursi (Osijeku) ∑ tadaπnji Ioviae bio je opasan bedemom od prvoga do petog stoljeÊa. Pretpostavlja se da je ovdje najranije antiËko naselje bilo obrambeno-upravno srediπte, sve do propasti Rimskog Carstva. Od srednjeg vijeka, Ludbreg postaje sjediπte prostranoga feudalnog posjeda, kojemu su pripadala i mnoga okolna sela od Kalnika do rijeke Drave. Ovdje se spominje i druga manje poznata legenda koja kazuje da je Ludbreg osnovao, vraÊajuÊi se iz kriæarske vojne, burgundski plemiÊ Lodbring oko 1100. godine. Sluæbeno, ludbreπko vlastelinstvo prvi je put spomenuto u dokumentima kralja Bele IV. iz 1244. godine, u kojima se navodi kao kraljevski posjed. Dvorac o kojemu slijedi pripovijest nastao je na mjestu utvrde. Kao srednjovjekovni burg, formiran je u 13. stoljeÊu. Tadaπnja utvrda bila je jezgra danaπnjeg dvorca, koji je do sada doæivio mnoge preinake i dogradnje te danas pokazuje obiljeæja svih graditeljskih stilova od 14. do 19. st., o Ëemu svjedoËi i gotiËki prozor u zidu sjevernoga te rozeta u zidu njegova zapadnog krila. U drugoj polovici 13. stoljeÊa kao ludbreπki vlasnici spominju se plemiÊi Paliæani i BakonjiÊi, a od 1320. godine ovdje gospodari Nikola Ludbreπki, koji je osim ovoga imao i popriliËno drugih posjeda. Veliko se ludbreπko imanje i u drugoj polovici 14. stoljeÊa proteæe

- ©to je prolazno? ∑ upita Ilija. - Neminovnost. - A πto je onda konaËno? - Pouke neminovnog. Kazavπi to, aneo nestade. (P. Coelho, Peta gora) - What is temporary? ∑ asked Elijah. - The unavoidable. - And what is lasting? - The lessons of the unavoidable. Having said this, the angel disappeared. (P. Coelho, The Fifth Mountain)

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od rijeke Bednje do Drave. Dvorac se otad nalazi u vlasniπtvu viπe poznatih hrvatskih i ugarskih plemiÊkih obitelji. Ban Ivan Chuz, vlasnik dvorca od 1370. godine, Ludbreg je obogatio i donacijom gradnje gotiËke, zatim barokizirane æupne crkve koja je u to vrijeme zidana kamenjem iz ruπevina stare antiËke Ioviae. Iz gotiËke faze na dvorcu saËuvan je i Ëetverokutni toranj, u kojemu je poslije smjeπteno svetiπte barokne kapele. U njoj se, prema predaji, toËno prije 600 godina ∑ 1411., dogodilo Ëudo pretvorbe misnog vina u Krv Kristovu. Prema predaji, te davne 1411. sveÊenik je u znamenitoj kapeli ludbreπkog dvorca slavio svetu misu. Tijekom mise, u sebi je posumnjao da li se uistinu nakon rijeËi pretvorbe: Hoc est corpus meum /Ovo je tijelo moje i Hic est Calix sanguinis mei /Ovo je kaleæ krvi - kruh i vino pretvaraju u Tijelo i Krv Isusovu. Kad je dospio do onoga dijela mise gdje se hostija lomi u tri dijela, a jedan dio spuπta u kaleæ, sveÊenik je ugledao u kaleæu svjeæu krv. Preplaπen te silno uzbuen, ubrzo je dovrπio misu, a tekuÊinu s kaleæom osobno zazidao u samo njemu poznat prostor. Do smrtnog Ëasa sveÊenik taji o tom dogaaju, no predosjeÊajuÊi skori odlazak, pred svjedocima priznaje Ëudotovorno iskustvo, a kaleæ s tekuÊinom vidljive i naravne krvi predaje na Ëuvanje u dvorsku kapelu sve do 1787., kad je prenesen u æupnu crkvu i ondje je stalno pohranjen. Iako su Ëuda u ljudskim æivotima najrjea, najposebnija i najnevienija pojava, po svojoj naravi ona nadilaze ono πto se smatra uobiËajenim i svakodnevnim. U trenutku kad nas zadesi Ëudo, svijet zaiskri slobodom, osloboen svake izvjesnosti u kojoj se svaki dan boravi. Taj trenutak dat je i sluæitelju mise u ludbreπkom dvorcu kao osobit znak i poziv da se okrene stvarnosti, sasvim drugaËijoj od one koja se obiËajno poima. To dramatiËno zbivanje na zidovima i svodu dvorske kapele oslikao je Michael Peck iz Kaniæe 1753. godine. Vrijedne freske nadahnute navedenim Ëudom u æupnoj crkvi u poËetku 20. stoljeÊa naslikao je i Mirko RaËki, jedan od velikana domaÊeg slikarstva. Nakon dugotrajne, pomne i svestrane istrage oko vjerodostojnosti tog dogaaja, papa Leon X., nakon viπe od jednog stoljeÊa od Ëudotvornog dogaaja, 1513. godine svojom bulom priznaje jedinstveno ludbreπko proπteniπte. Prema papinskome sveËanom pismu otad se relikvija svake prve nedjelje u rujnu, uz veliko euharistijsko slavlje, izlaæe vjernicima na πtovanje u ludbreπkoj æupnoj crkvi. Tijekom turskih prodora u te krajeve, relikvijska pokaznica prenesena je na Ëuvanje 18

u plemiÊki grad Gotalovec, a nakon vojne pobjede kod Kaniæe 1587. ponovno se vraÊa u Ludbreg. Kako povijest svetiπta govori o mnogim milostima, usliπanjima i Ëudesnim ozdravljenjima, meu nebrojenim mnoπtvom hodoËasnika, koji su u Ludbregu pred relikvijom traæili osobni mir i spokoj, bili su i Ëlanovi kraljevske obitelji Habsburgovaca. Car Josip II. godine 1787. posjetio je Ludbreg, a car Franjo I. sa suprugom Karolinom 1817. godine. Hrvatski sabor 1739. godine dao je sveËani zavjet kako Êe u Ludbregu sagraditi zavjetnu kapelu u Ëast Predragocjene Krvi Kristove. Bilo je to u vrijeme teπkih kuπnji za Hrvatsku te se tad taj zavjet nije mogao ispuniti. Nakon dva i pol stoljeÊa ∑ 1994. godine−sveËano je posveÊena podignuta kapela i tako ispunjen navedeni zavjet iz 18. stoljeÊa. Godine 1505. ludbreπko vlastelinstvo preuzima plemiÊki sudac Bernard Turóczi, u Ëijim je rukama neπto manje od dvije stotine godina. U tom razdoblju ludbreπki dvorac postaje naglaπeno ugodno i prostrano obrambeno, ali i plemiÊko staniπte. Æenidbenim vezama, u prvoj polovici 17. stoljeÊa dvorac prelazi u vlasniπtvo obitelji Erdödy. Joπ od 15. stoljeÊa ludbreπko trgoviπte gospodarski jaËa. Od tada datiraju i njegovi sajmovi razvijeni utjecajem formiranja i danas znamenitoga hodoËasnog srediπta. U tom razdoblju od 14. do 17. stoljeÊa, kad je stanovnicima tadaπnjeg mjesta vlastela priznavala status graana, iako su ostali feudalni podloænici, ludbreπki dvorac poprimio je oblik utvrenoga grada klasiËne tlocrtne koncepcije: pravokutnog tlocrta s ugaonim tornjevima te okruæen opkopom s vodom i pokretnim mostom preko njega. Na prijelomu u 18. stoljeÊe dvorac postaje posjed obitelji Batthyány, a taj naziv nosi i danas. Navedena plemiÊka obitelj 1745. godine naruËuje radikalnu barokizaciju dotadaπnje gotiËko-renesansne cjeline, izvedene prema projektu gradaËkog arhitekta Josepha Huebera. Preinake su i intervencije velike. Iz obrambene utvrde izrasta stambeno-gospodarski kompleks za boravak vlastele, nastaje dvokatni dvor s Ëetverokutnim dvoriπtem s baroknim i klasicistiËkim pojedinostima. Katarina Horvat-Levaj u tekstu o utvrdama i dvorcima opisala je rezidencijalnu arhitekturu dvorca sljedeÊim naznakama: Prvi kat dvorca bio je glavna etaæa feudalne rezidencije, s jedanaest soba te velikom dvoranom oblikovanom kroz dvije etaæe u zapadnom krilu. Ta dvorana, nekad ukraπena i bogatim baroknim πtrukaturama, rastvarala se prema svetiπtu kapale, u zoni njegove kupole, osebujnom emporom iz koje su vlasnici pratili obrede.

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Na drugom katu bile su sobe za goste, njih dvanaest, te soba za oﬁcire i kuhinja, dok je u posljednjoj, nisko potkrovnoj etaæi, izvorno smjeπtenoj unutar mansarde, bilo petnaest soba. Iza sebe vlastela Batthyány-Strattman ostavila je mnoge spomenike kulture: 1753. godine osigurali su oslikavanje dvorske kapelice, sagradili su kapelicu sv. Roka u Karlovcu Ludbreπkom (1768.), æupnu crkvu u –uru (1775.), a ludbreπku æupnu crkvu potkraj 18. st. okruæili trijemom − cintorom. Za vrijeme njihove vladavine Ludbreg dobiva novi izgled, a 1800. dali su ukloniti i zidove oko tvrave te dvorski toranj iznad kapele. Dominantni barokni izgled dvorca, s boËnim gospodarskim zgradama, ostao je saËuvan do danaπnjih dana. Istaknute promjene vidljive su u radovima iz 19. stoljeÊa u zoni treÊe etaæe, kad je mansarda preoblikovana u treÊi kat. Filip Batthyány bio je posljednji feudalni vladar Ludbrega, a umro je 1870. godine, naslijedio ga je njegov roak Gustav, koji je 1883. izdahnuo u Londonu. Njegov sin Edön posvetio je brigu Körmendu, a imanjem su se koristili zakupnici. Posljednji vlasnik, Ladislav Batthyány, prodao je svoj posjed barunu Amonu Rukavini, a od njega ga je otkupila tvrtka Berger iz Zagreba. Za nekoliko godina rasparcelirane su sve livade, oranice i πume, a 1939. godine dvorac ili tzv. Stari grad otkupila je opÊina Ludbreg. Od tada dvorac je u funkciji vojarne, socijalnih stanova i pogona tvornice Varteks, sve do 1992. godine, kad ga Ludbreg ustupa za Restauratorski centar, koji djeluje u sastavu Hrvatskoga restauratorskog zavoda radi restauriranja umjetnina oπteÊenih u Domovinskom ratu, deponiranih u prostorijama dvorca, a zatim i drugih pokretnih spomenika hrvatske pokretne kulturne baπtine. Pet godina poslije, uz veliku pomoÊ Bavarske sluæbe za zaπtitu spomenika kulture, Hrvatski restauratorski zavod poËeo je s cjelovitim zahvatom saniranja dvorca, uz opremanje Restauratorskog centra. Obilazimo u tiπini golemo zdanje dvorca od 3500 m2, u kojemu se obnavlja spomeniËka baπtina. Mnogobrojne sobe ispunjene su spomeniËkim artefaktima, koje obnavljaju mirne ruke. Ovdje se restauriraju slike na platnu, izvode se drvorezbarski radovi na starim crkvenim oltarima, obnavlja se tekstil... Sve je podreeno miru, bez kojega se ti poslovi i ne mogu odvijati. UsredotoËenost na detalj trajna je obveza tih restauratora. Tijekom rada na nekoj umjetnini bitno je dotaknuti izvorno nadahnuÊe umjetnika koji ju je osmislio, naslikao, istkao, izradio ili sagradio. PovezujuÊi se s detaljem, obnavlja se cjelina. Bez zrna nema CROATIA AIRLINES

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braπna, bez fokusiranoga i predanog rada nemoguÊe je dotaknuti eteriËnost kreativnog nadahnuÊa davno preminula autora, kojega treba zamijeniti u obnovi njegove umjetnine. n

rom what does a source spring? How does a town arise? From where do the names of our cities originate? From which inspirations, legends, events and memories? We rarely ask why our towns, cities, rivers and valleys are called the names we write and speak. Ludbreg is not that kind of city. Located in the idyllic Drava River valley surrounded by the picturesque hills of the Kalnik region, it has strong ties to its historical origins; the well from which it draws its strength every day. In Ludbreg, the present is touched by history through documented traces and values that derive from them, and which for centuries have been built into the heritage of this region. The citizens of Ludbreg love their city; they live with it and glorify it, they talk about it to the well intentioned passersby, travellers, and visitors who are more than happy to hear the stories. There is nothing showy about their historical narrations. They are not about competing, exaggerating or outdoing others in any way. They convey their recollections, memorial notes and anecdotes with warm words; the richness of the traditions and customs that are experienced owing to the delicacy of the truth that resides in every human being. Before embarking on the story about the life of a cultural heritage, the Ludbreg Batthyany Castle, or otherwise known by the locals as BaËani, we need to take a step back and discover the origin of the name Ludbreg. According to the Pauline abbot Honoris from Lepoglava, the name of the city is derived from one Ludberga or Liutberga, the daughter of a wealthy estate manager in the service of Count Bela II, who was born on 1 April back in 1141. After a carefree childhood on the banks of the Bednja River, the young girl bloomed into a rarely seen beauty. The destiny of the well-accomplished and stunningly beautiful girl was to succumb to the physical temptation of the young and noble, but dishonourable knight Ulrik. Having devoted many years of her life to penitence and prayers, and having sacriﬁced herself working as a maid, while at the same time helping the sick and the poor and taking care of her little son Theobald, Ludberga ﬁnally found peace in a small vineyard house, one of many that had existed since Roman times and enhanced the beauty of the wine-growing hills of the region. She worked the small vineyard making quality

wine. Her winemaking skills soon became known in the feudal manor houses, monasteries and the parish houses. She donated wine to the monasteries and churches for liturgical ceremonies. Beloved by the people in the region, Ludberga lived a long life and her birthday is celebrated today by the people as The Day of the Centre of the World. Her son Theobald also became a recognized vintner who mastered his skills in the distant Burgundy, a province still considered the capital of high quality wines. An ancient legend has it that Earth’s circles were delineated around Ludbreg, with European cities placed on their peripheries. A depiction still stands in the centre of the city showing their geographical locations. It is interesting that, exactly on the opposite side of the earth, not far from New Zealand, is Ludbreg’s antipode; the volcanic islands called the Antipodes in the southern Pacific Ocean. Sharing this uniqueness with the world, Ludbreg is nicknamed the Centre of the World (Centrum Mundi). The legend inspired curiosity and incited explorers’ passion. Among those who studied it in the 18th century was Kazimir BedekoviÊ (1727-1782), a local mathematician, physicist, theologian, philosopher, as well as writer and great promoter of Newton’s theory. Here we should certainly point out the Ludbreg-born Rudolf Fizir (1891-1960), who has gone down in history as one of the pioneers of aircraft construction. Yet, according to old archives, the person who deserves the most credit for giving prominence to this discovery and for promoting it internationally was a great friend of Ludbreg, the Swiss philosopher Dr. Erasmus Weddingen. Moreover, being an enthusiast of the post-modern, he developed this miraculous story about Ludbreg as the centre of the world. Therefore, even today the people of Ludbreg happily show their honourable position on the geographical map using a cheeky slogan: Sod the begrudgers; Ludbreg is the centre of the world! Ludbreg is a city with an unusually long and rich history; it literally lies on the walls of the Roman city Castrum Iovia Botivo. As one of the most important Roman settlements in the valley of the Drava River, on the ancient road from Slovenian Ptuj (known as Petovia at the time) to Mursa (present-day Osijek), the then Iovia was a walled city from the first to the fifth century. It is assumed that the earliest ancient settlement was a military-administrative centre, which had a defensive character and existed up until the fall of the Roman Empire. In the Middle Ages, Ludbreg became the seat of a large feudal estate, which encompassed CROATIA AIRLINES

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a host of surrounding villages from Kalnik to the Drava River. The other less well known legend has it that Ludbreg was founded by the Burgundy nobleman Lodbring on his way back from the Crusades around the year 1100. The first official reference to the Ludbreg estate can be found in a document King Bela IV issued in 1244, where it is mentioned as a royal estate. The protagonist of this story was built on the site of a fort. It existed as a medieval burg during the 13th century. The edifice that started its life as a fortress became the core of today’s castle. During a long transformation process it has undergone numerous modifications and upgrades, but it has still managed to retain some of the features of all the architectural styles from the 14th to the 19th century, as evidenced by the Gothic window in the northern wall and the rosette in the wall of its west wing. In the second half of the 13th century, the Paliæani and BakonjiÊi noble families were mentioned as Ludbreg’s owners, and from 1320, the master here was Nikola Ludbreπki, who also had a lot of other properties in addition to this one. During the second half of the 14th century, the great Ludbreg estate spread from the Bednja River to the Drava River. From then onwards, the castle was owned by various well known Croatian and Hungarian noble families. Croatian Governor Ivan Chuz, the owner of the castle from 1370, enriched Ludbreg with his donations by building a Gothic parish church with stones from the ruins of the ancient Iovia, and subsequently remodelled it after the Baroque fashion. A square tower testifies to the castle’s Gothic past. In the subsequent phase the tower housed the sanctuary of the Baroque chapel where a miracle happened exactly 600 years ago in 1411 when the mass wine famously turned into the Blood of Christ. According to legend, back in 1411, a priest celebrated Mass in the famous chapel in Ludbreg Castle. During the Mass, for a brief moment he was seized with doubt as to whether the bread and wine indeed transformed into the Body and Blood of Christ after reciting the words: Hoc est corpus meum (This is my body) and Hic est Calix sanguinis mei (This is my cup of blood). When he came to the part of Mass when the host is split into three parts, and one part is placed in the chalice, the priest noticed fresh blood in the chalice. Scared and yet very excited, he quickly finished the Mass, and he personally sealed the chalice with the liquid in an area known only to him. The priest kept the whole event secret until the hour of his death. However, sensing 24

his imminent passing, he admitted the miraculous experience in front of witnesses. The said chalice with the liquid, which was indeed quite obviously genuine blood, was handed over for safekeeping in the royal chapel until 1787 when it was transferred to the parish church where it is permanently stored. Miracles happen quite rarely in people’s lives, but when they do occur, they are the most special and extraordinary phenomena which surpass everything one tends to consider ordinary and commonplace. At the moment when a miracle happens to us a spark of freedom is sent to the world; the freedom from all certainty in which we live our everyday lives. That experience was given to the servant of God to behold during the Mass in Ludbreg Castle as a special sign and a call to face another reality, completely different from the one we are regularly aware of. Those dramatic events were depicted on the walls and the dome of the castle’s chapel by Michael Peck from Kaniæa in 1753. The valuable frescoes in the parish church, inspired by the said miracle, were painted in the early 20th century by Mirko RaËki, one of the great national painters. More than a century after the miraculous event, after a long, careful and comprehensive investigation into its authenticity, Pope Leo X recognized the uniqueness of Ludbreg’s shrine by his 1513 Bull. According to the solemn papal letter, ever since then, the first Sunday in September has been dedicated to the Eucharistic celebration of the Relic, which is displayed in Ludbreg’s parish church to be adored by believers. During the Turkish invasion in this region, the relic was transferred to the care of the noble city Gotalovec, and after a military victory in Kaniæa in 1587 it was again returned to Ludbreg. Prompted by the shrine’s historical reputation for the many graces bestowed, miraculous healings experienced and prayers heard, members of the royal Habsburg family joined the innumerable multitude of pilgrims who sought personal peace and tranquillity before the relic in Ludbreg. Also, Emperor Joseph II came in 1787, while Emperor Franz I and his wife Karolina followed in 1817. In 1739, the Croatian parliament vowed to build a votive chapel in honour of the Precious Blood of Christ in Ludbreg. It was a difficult period for Croatia and at the time that vow could not be fulfilled. After two and a half centuries, in 1994, the official dedication of the chapel was held, thus the solemn pledge made in the 18th century was finally honoured. In 1505, Ludbreg estate was taken over by the noble judge Bernard Turoczi, and it

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stayed in his family for a little less than two hundred years. During that time Ludbreg Castle became a pronouncedly comfortable and spacious defensive manor as well as a noble habitat. In the first half of the 17th century, through marriage the castle became the property of the Erdödy family. Already from the 15th century Ludbreg started to grow politically and economically, as an administrative centre and market town. That was the time when trade fairs started developing driven by the growing prominence of the shrine, which is still a popular pilgrim site. In the period from the 14th to the 17th century, when the inhabitants of the town were recognized by the landed gentry with the status of citizens, even though they remained feudal subjects, Ludbreg Castle took on the form of a fortified city with a conventional footprint: a rectangular shape flanked by corner towers, surrounded by a moat with water and a drawbridge over it. At the beginning of the 18th century, the castle became the property of the Batthyany family, whose name it still carries today. In 1745 the noble family commissioned radical alterations to the previously Gothic-Renaissance complex by way of which it would be refashioned in the more contemporary Baroque style according to the design of the architect Joseph Hueber from Graz. As a result of major modifications and interventions, the former defensive fortress grew into a typical manor where the owners could reside and conduct their business, which included a two-storey palace with a square courtyard featuring Baroque and Classicist details. This is what Katarina Horvat-Levaj wrote about the castle’s residential architecture in her text about fortress and castles: The first floor of the castle was the principal floor of the feudal residence, with eleven rooms and a great two-storey hall in the west wing. That hall, once decorated with rich Baroque stucco work, had a distinctive gallery which opened towards the chapel shrine, in the area of its dome from which the owners followed the ceremonies. The second floor consisted of guest rooms, twelve of them, as well as a room for officers and the kitchen staff, while the last, low attic floor, originally located in the mansard, contained fifteen rooms. The Batthyany-Strattman owners left many cultural monuments behind: in 1753 they commissioned the painting of the castle’s chapel; they built the St. Roch Chapel in Karlovac Ludbreπki (1768); the parish church in –ur (1775); while in the late 18th century they surrounded the Ludbreg parish church 26

with an arcaded porch. During the time of their reign Ludbreg got a new look, and in 1800 they had the walls from around the fortress removed, as well as the castle’s tower above the chapel. The dominant Baroque appearance of the castle, with its lateral outbuildings, has been preserved to this day. Major changes are evident as a result of the works done during the 19 th century in the area of the third floor where the mansard was transformed into the third floor. Philip Batthyany, the last feudal lord of Ludbreg, died in 1870. He was succeeded by his cousin Gustav, who died in London in 1883. His son Edön put its care in the hands of the people of Körmend and the property was used by the tenants. The last owner, Ladislav Batthyany, sold his estate to Baron Amon Rukavina, who in turn sold it to the company Berger from Zagreb. Within the following few years, all the meadows, fields and forests were further divided, and in 1939 the castle, the so called Stari Grad (Old City), was bought by the municipality of Ludbreg. From then on the castle functioned as a barracks, social housing and workshop for the factory Varteks. This was until 1992 when Ludbreg ceded it to the Croatian Conservation Institute as a Conservation Centre, the aim of which is to restore the works of art that were damaged during the Homeland War and deposited in the premises of the castle, and then the other movable cultural heritage. Five years later, with great help from the Bavarian department for the protection of cultural monuments, the Croatian Conservation Institute embarked on a major project to repair the castle and equip the Conservation Centre. Silence fills this vast edifice with a staggering footprint of 3500 m2, despite the restoration works which are currently underway. Many of the rooms are filled with historical artefacts and the gentle hands that are restoring paintings on canvas, repairing wood-carvings on old church altars and regenerating various types of textiles that served as backgrounds for paintwork. Peace reigns supreme, as a condition without which such works could not be carried out. The attention to detail is a continuous commitment during these works. Restoring a piece of artwork is all about figuring out what it was that inspired the artist to design, paint, weave, create or build what he did. One must connect with the details in order to renew the whole. Without grain there is no flour, without focused and dedicated effort it is impossible to touch the ethereality behind the creative inspiration of the long gone artist, whose shoes one needs to fill in order to restore his art. n

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Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Dubrovnik Sun Gardens

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Amfiteatri grËki i rimski antiËkim duhom i tisuÊljetnom postojanoπÊu osvajaju vremenskim i zemljopisnim prostorom, ali ima amfiteatara koji nisu ni u mediteranskom prostoru, niti su zapisani u Ëvrstom kamenu. U njihovu je duhu da se ponovno svake godine, kad joπ i ne okopne snjegovi, oblikuju ispoËetka, briænim rukama vinogradara. PleπiviËki su to osunËani amfiteatri zasaeni vinovom lozom. The ancient spirit of the Greek and Roman amphitheatres has conquered geographical space and spanned millennia, but amphitheatres exist which are not in the Mediterranean region and are not carved in hard stone. It is in the nature of these amphitheatres to be formed anew every year, just before the first snow, with the loving labour of the winegrowers. These are the Pleπivica sunny amphitheatres planted with grape vines. 28

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KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA INLAND CROATIA ■

jeseni se prelijevaju toplim akvarelom i pjesmama beraËa, koje najavljuje blagdan sv. Mihaela. Zimi se pred mrazom u tiπini uπuπkaju pod bijelom snjeænom tuhicom sve do rezidbe i do sijeËnja kad Êe lozu nadariti blagoslovom sv. Vinka, kobasicama, kupicom vina i nadom, ako se lozi da sve πto joj treba, u joπ jednu dobru berbu. U proljeÊe Êe ponovno zamirisati i blagom divljinom i kultiviranim prkosom. A ljeti Êe πumjeti raskoπno zeleno kao da opet komu æele izmamiti Lorcin ili barem kakav lokalni vinarski, gotovo ljubavni stih: Nikaj na svetu lepπega ni, neg je gorica kada rodi. Kume moj dragi, daj se napij, dugo nas ne bu, daj se ga væi… No u svako doba godine tu su, na planini Pleπivici visokoj 779 metara, ni desetak kilometara od Jastrebarskoga a na tridesetak kilometara od Zagreba, pripravni gostoljubivo potoËiti koje od ponajboljih svojih, ali odavno i ponajboljih hrvatskih vina, te iznijeti na stol i hranu veÊ zaboravljenih, tako domaÊih okusa. Tu, na PleπiviËkoj vinskoj cesti, uvijek imaju u pripravi neko iznenaenje. VeÊ sredinom listopada zrelo je prvo vino ovogodiπnje berbe, pobratim francuskoga beaujoleau nouvaisa, portugizac, mlado crno vino, koje se sjajno slaæe s peËenim kestenima, peËenim guskama i patkama. Navodno su tu lozu na podruËje Jastrebarskoga u poËetku 19. stoljeÊa, u vrijeme Napoleonovoe Ilirije, donijeli baπ francuski vojnici. Cijeli jaskanski kraj tako zovu domovinom portugisca, a proizvoaËi te tradicionalne sorte 1999. osnovali su i Udrugu

proizvoaËa marke vina Portugizac Pleπivica. Prodaja portugisca u prigorske je kuÊe od davnina donosila prvi velik prihod od godiπnjega uroda, ali ta se tradicija ubrzano mijenja. VeÊ za sv. Martina i tradicionalno krπtenje vina 11. studenoga bit Êe pripravan cijeli podrum, kako vina autohtonih pleπiviËkih sorta portugizac, plavec æuti, slatki zelenac i πipelj, tako i svjetski poznate sorte udomaÊene na strmim plešiviËkim obroncima - chardonnay, rajnski rizling, sauvignon, traminac crni, bijeli i sivi pinot. No mnogi Êe vinogradari i vinari ostaviti da njihova vina nastaju i zriju po speciﬁËnim tehnologijama, u odreenim uvjetima, u kojima su nerijetko i pioniri ne samo svoga podruËja. Ovdaπnja se graπevina, primjerice, svojim stilom uvelike razlikuje od istoËnijih, slavonskih i baranjskih, precizno otkrivajuÊi svoj speciﬁËni terroire. PleπiviËka vina nekad nisu slovila velikima, ali posljednjih godina osvajaju mnoge nagrade na hrvatskim i poznatim svjetskim ocjenjivanjima. Jedan od elitnih, Velimir Korak, proglaπen je tako najboljim hrvatskim vinarom 2010. godine, a buduÊe dosege najavljuju i mlai vinari, drugo ili treÊe koljeno svojih vinogradarsko-vinskih obitelji: Tomislav Tomac je 2007., a Kreπimir Reæek 2008. godine proglaπen najboljim mladim hrvatskim vinarom. Korakov rizling 2002., charonnay sur lie 2008. i joπ neka velika su svjetska vina, a pjenuπci oca Zvonimira i sina Tomislava Tomca posloviËno se smatraju najboljima hrvatskima, a ta obitelj predvodi i u proizvodnji vina u amforama.

Piše/By Boæica Brkan Fotograﬁje/Photos Romeo IbriπeviÊ i/and Arhiva turistiËke zajednice grada Jastrebarskog/Jastrebarsko Tourist Association Archive

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Nedavno je u srediπtu Jastrebarskoga otvoren vinski podrum Mazana. Nazvan po starinskome vinskom vrËu iz kojega se pilo u sveËanim prilikama, omoguÊuje da svakog dana, ukratko, upoznate pleπiviËke vinare i vina - kvalitetna, vrhunska i predikatna te ponajbolje hrvatske pjenuπce uz pleπiviËki sir te domaÊe nareske. Ne treba nikako zaobiÊi Podrum Mladina, koji uvelike odreuje i povijest uzgoja vinove loze i proizvodnje vina cijeloga kraja. Podigao ga je grof Erdödy joπ 1736. godine; od 1922., kad je umro posljednji grof Erdödy, Stjepan, promijenio je nekoliko vlasnika, a 1998. prelazi u vlasniπtvo Jamnice, odnosno Agrokora, i ponovno diktira tempo visokim i zanimljivim ambicijama. Svi su ti vinari i podrumi tek dio PleπiviËke vinske ceste, jedne od desetak u Hrvatskoj. Uza Zelinsku, 2001. godine, osnovala ju je ZagrebaËka æupanija, inaËe prva hrvatska vinarsko-vinogradarska æupanija i po broju proizvoaËa vina s oznakom kontroliranoga podrijetla (Ëetvrtina) i po broju vina sa znakom kvalitetno s kontroliranim podrijetlom (treÊina), te po broju nagraenih vina na nacionalnim ocjenjivanjima (treÊina). VeÊ su se na startu vinari PleπiviËke vinske ceste mogli pohvaliti bogatom i raznovrsnom ponudom vina, a nakon jednoga desetljeÊa veÊ ih je 35 i nude sve raznovrsnije turistiËke usluge, od kuπanja vina u opremljenim kuπaonicama, do jela, a pet ih nudi i uslugu smjeπtaja na svojim gospodarstvima. Tako, primjerice, na PleπiviËkoj vinskoj cesti moæete kuπati razliËite domaÊe specijalitete, nerijetko i s vlastita imanja - nareske, gibanice, πtrudl, pleπiviËki copanjek, domaÊe sirove, Ëeπnjovke, πpek, paprikaπ, domaÊe purice i patke s mlincima, jela s raænja i roπtilja te ispod peke, ribu iz vlastita ribnjaka... Vinarije, restorani, izletiπta, obiteljska poljoprivredna gospodarstva, vinske kuÊe te poljoprivredne i vinogradarske zadruge ponudu oplemenjuju sve ambicioznije razliËitim dogaajima. Tu su i programi team buildinga i paraglidinga, motocross staza i sliËno, ali i sadræaji za one koji se od brzoga urbanog æivota æele odazvati zovu prirode i otkrivati, makar πetnjom, saËuvanu ljepotu, osobito πuma i voda. Mnoge su tu joπ nedovoljno poznate kulturne i sakralne graevine. Temama se taj ruralni prostor tek otkriva i neumrlom etno ljepotom, πto nadograuje vinogradarstvo i vinarstvo, koje je nekad donosilo glavni prihod, a danas je temelj na koji cijeli kraj nadograuju razliËite ideje i ponudu. Od 1981. u selu Volavju tako se odræava Zelena livada, priredba koja njeguje davne puËke pastirske igre - gaanje lukom 30

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i strijelom, guranje drvenih kola kroz πumu, bacanje πtapa u dalj rukom i nogom, hodanje na πtulama, prasiÊkanje, kozanje, potezanje konopa, penjanje po uæetu... Oæivljavaju i stari obrti − baËvarstvo, lonËarstvo, kovaËija itd. Obnavljaju se i stari mlinovi te meljava i ponuda tradicijskih ekoloπkih proizvoda, od kruha do meda te rakija i drugih voÊnih proizvoda. Odnedavno su u Jastrebarskom na jednome mjestu predstavljena pleπiviËka vina i vinari. Vinski podrum Mazana nalazi se u središtu Jastrebarskog, otvoren je svaki dan i izvrsno je mjesto za iskusne zaljubljenike u vino, ali i one koji Êe to tek postati. Kvalitetna, vrhunska i predikatna vina, ali i ponajbolji hrvatski pjenuπci nude se uz pleπiviËki sir te nareske iz domaÊe proizvodnje. U vinskom podrumu, koji je ime dobio po starinskom vinskom vrËu što se rabio u sveËanim prigodama, poËnite svoje putovanje ovim lijepim vinorodnim krajem. Zbog mnogih se razloga Jastrebarsko naziva i gradom najboljih hrvatskih vinara i najvinskijim gradom u Hrvatskoj. Iako se Jaskanci mogu pohvaliti mnogim viπednevnim priredbama u vezi sa, primjerice, BoæiÊem, faπnikom i sliËno, najznaËajniji su im druπtveni dogaaj veÊ πesnaest godina Jaskanske vinske sveËanosti, kojima se, dakako, predstavljaju vina i vinari toga kraja najavljujuÊi novu berbu. A berbu, dakako, portugisca, nerijetko poËinju - diplomati. Na Jaskanskim vinskim sveËanostima tradicionalno se predstavljaju i kandidatkinje za Vinsku kraljicu ZagrebaËke æupanije, a nerijetko njima postaju i kÊeri jaskanskih vinara, i same vinarice. Od 1984. godine Klub prijatelja dobroga vina, udruga koja okuplja vinogradare i vinare cijeloga pleπiviËkoga vinorodnog prostora, u svibnju, kada list vinove loze naraste da moæe pokriti dobar pehar, o joπ jednome od Ëetiri vinska sveca, sv. Urbanu, tradicionalno organizira Vinske igre. Njima prethodi πpijunaæa vina, odnosno procjenjivanje kvalitete berbe, πto je ulaznica vinarima za struËno ocjenjivanje. Natjecateljski duh pod geslom tko Êe od iste sorte groæa napraviti bolje vino, smatra se, pokrenuo je vinare u nadmetanje za kvalitetom. A poπtovaocima vina tim je zabavnim, a sada i za ukupni æivot kraja veoma vaænim ocjenjivanjem, ne samo na srediπnjem gradskom trgu, osigurao kuπanje i povoljnu kupnju lokalnih vina, nego im u tome vinogradskome i vinarskom kraju bjelodano omoguÊio joπ jednom spoznaju u boji i bukèu kako joπ - ima istine u vinu. n

n the autumn they are like an aquarelle overflowing with warm colours and the songs of the grape pickers, which

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announce the holiday St. Michael. Before the frosts of winter, they rustle in silence under the white snow duvet, up until the time when the vines are pruned, and then until January when St. Vincent’s Day is celebrated and the vines are blessed with sausages and cups of wine, all in the hope that the vintage will be good if the vines are given everything they need. In the springtime they will again start exuding the fragrance of a moderate wildness and cultured defiance. And in the summer they will whirr with lush green as if again wanting to elicit a verse such as those by Lorca or at least some kind of local ode to wine, almost a love song in its own right: There is nothing more beautiful in this world than a vineyard with vines full of grapes. C’mon mate and have a good drink − we are not in this world for long − indulge while you can… Here, on the slopes of Pleπivica, at 779 meters above sea level, not even ten kilometres from Jastrebarsko and less than thirty kilometres from Zagreb, in every season of the year the locals are more than happy to show their hospitality and pour you a glass of the best of their own products, which, incidentally, also have a long reputation as the best of Croatian wines, and lay a table full of homemade food, the tastes of which we have long forgotten. Here on the Pleπivica Wine Road there is always a surprise in store for you. Already in the middle of October the first wine of this year’s vintage is mature, that is the equivalent of the French beaujolais nouveau, Portugizac, a young red wine which marries excellently with roasted chestnuts, roasted goose and duck. Supposedly this grape variety has been present in the Jastrebarsko region since the beginning of the 19th century, when it was brought here by French soldiers during the time of the Napoleonic Illyria. The entire Jaska region is therefore dubbed the Homeland of Portugizac. In 1999, the growers of this traditional variety established the Association of Producers of the Wine Brand Portugizac Pleπivica. For centuries, the sale of Portugizac was what brought the first and sometimes only income to the homes in the foothills, but this tradition is rapidly changing. Already for St. Martin’s Day and the traditional blessing of the wine on November 11th the entire cellar will be prepared and full of the wines from the autochthonous Pleπivica varietals, such as Portugizac, Plavec Æuti, Slatki Zelenac and ©ipelj, as well as the world renown varieties which have become domesticated on the steep slopes of Pleπivica − Chardonnay, German Riesling (Rajnski Rizling), Sauvignon, Red Traminac (Traminac Crni), Pinot Blanc (Bijeli Pinot) and Pinot Gris (Sivi Pinot).

Many of the winegrowers and winemakers will allow their wines to develop and mature under special conditions using special technologies, which they often pioneer, and not only in their region. The style of the local Graπevina, for example, differs greatly from the same wine produced in the east, in Slavonia and Baranja, and very distinctly reveals its specific terroir. Pleπivica wines were not always considered big; however, in recent years they have won numerous awards at Croatian and other important world competitions. Velimir Korak, one of the elite, was named the best winemaker in 2010, whereas young winemakers show great prospects for future achievements. They are the second or third generation of their winegrowing-winemaking families: Tomislav Tomac and Kreπimir Reæek, in 2007 and 2008 respectively, were named the best young Croatian winemakers. Korak’s 2002 Riesling, 2008 Chardonnay Sur Lie and a few others are big wines in global terms. The sparkling wines from the father and son team of Zvonimir and Tomislav Tomac are considered the best in Croatia, and that family is also the leader in the production of wines in amphoras. We should not overlook the significance of the Mladina Cellar, which has largely determined the history of winegrowing and winemaking in the entire region. It was built by Count Erdödy in 1736. Since 1922, when Stjepan Erdödy died, the last of the Erdödy counts, it has changed hands a few times. In 1998 it was acquired by Jamnica, i.e., Agrokor, and once again it dictates the tempo, driven by high and interesting ambitions. All of these wineries and cellars are merely a part of the Pleπivica Wine Road, one of about a dozen wine roads in Croatia, which, along with the Zelina Wine Road was founded in 2001 by Zagreb County, the leading Croatian winegrowing-winemaking county, both in terms of the number of winemakers who produce wines with appellations of controlled origin (one-fourth) and the number of wines with quality and appellation of controlled origin labels (one-third), as well as the number of wines which have been recognized with national ratings (one-third). Already from the outset, the winemakers along Pleπivica Wind Road boasted a rich and diverse wine offer, and after one decade there are already 35 of them and they offer various tourist services, from wine tastings in equipped tasting rooms to food, and five of them even offer accommodation on their estates. Therefore, for example, on the Pleπivica Wine Road you can try different homemade specialities, not uncommonly coming from the CROATIA AIRLINES

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owner’s estate − cold meats, gibanica, strudel, PleπiviËki copanjek, homemade cheeses, garlic sausages, bacon, stew, domestic turkey and duck with mlinci, food on a spit or grilled or prepared under a cast iron bell, fish from their own fish pond… Wineries, restaurants, excursion sites, family farms, wine houses, as well as agricultural and winemaking cooperatives enrich the offer with many different and ever more ambitious events. These include team building programs, paragliding, motocross circuits and others, as well as facilities for those who want a break from their rapid urban life and want to answer the call of nature and discover, even just by walking, the preserved beauty, especially of the forests and water streams. There are many cultural and religious buildings still waiting to be explored. Different themes serve to discover this rural area which offers undying ethno beauty as an added value to the viticulture and winemaking. At one time these were the biggest profit earners, and today they serve as the source of ideas for the expansion of the entire region and the foundation for an ever-growing range of offers. Since 1981, the village of Volavje has been the venue of the Green Meadow - a festivity that fosters ancient pastoral games − archery, pushing wooden wheels through the forest, tossing a wooden pole by hand or foot, walking on stilts, prasiÊkanje, kozanje, rope pulling, rope climbing… The old crafts − coopery, pottery, blacksmithing, etc. are being revived. The old mills and milling are being restored and the production of traditional eco produce, from bread to honey to rakija (brandy) and other fruit products is being encouraged. As of recently, there is a place in Jastrebarsko where you can find Pleπivica wines and winemakers on one location. The Mazana Wine Cellar is located in the very centre of Jastrebarsko. It is open every day and is an excellent place for experienced wine lovers, as well as those who are just starting out. Quality, premium quality and predicate wines, as well as the best Croatian sparkling wines, are offered along with Pleπivica cheese and homemade cold meats. You can start your journey of this beautiful wine-growing region in the wine cellar, which is named after an old vine jug that was used during ceremonial events. There are many reasons why Jastrebarsko is dubbed the city of the best Croatian viticulturists and the greatest wine city in Croatia. The locals of Jaska take pride in the numerous multi-day performances they stage to mark special days, such as Christmas and carnival. Still, for 16 years now, the most significant

event in the social calendar of the region has been the Jaska Wine Fest, at which, needless to say, they promote the wines and winemakers of the region by announcing the new vintage. Not uncommonly, the ﬁrst grapes of Portugizac are picked by diplomats. The Jaska Wine Fest is traditionally the place to present the candidates for Wine Queen of Zagreb County, and often the winner of the pageant is a daughter of a Jaska winemaker, or even a female winemaker. Since 1984, the Friends of Good Wine Club, an organization which brings together winegrowers and winemakers from the entire Pleπivica wine-growing region, have organized the traditional Wine Games in honour of another one of the four wine saints, St. Urban, whose day falls in May, when the vine leaf is big enough to cover a good pitcher of wine. The games are preceded by a wine espionage exercise, i.e. the purely amateur, peer-assessment of vintage quality, the winemakers’ ticket for subsequent professional evaluation. The competitive spirit fostered under the motto who will make the best wine from the same grape variety is believed to have stirred the winemakers to compete in terms of quality. This entertaining evaluation process, which has become an important social event in the region, provides wine aﬁcionados with tasting opportunities, not only in the central square but at many other places in town, as well as with opportunities to buy local wines at bargain prices. Most importantly, the event brings them to this winegrowing and winemaking area where they will get to admire the colour and bouquet of the wine, and appreciate, yet again, that there is still truth in wine. n

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■ MUZEJI MUSEUMS

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suton, kad sunce u jesen zalazi bacajuÊi crvene zrake po stubiËkoj dolini, vatreni nas kolorit krajolika i nehotice podsjeti na burne proπle dogaaje i Veliku seljaËku bunu, koja je krvavim kronikama obiljeæila davnu 1573. godinu. GupËeva buna, kako je Ëesto po njezinu voi zovu, pronijela je glas ne samo o stubiËkom kraju, nego i o Ëitavu Zagorju kao mjestu u kojemu se stare pravice i te kako cijene. VeÊ od 17. st. buna je bila predmet istraæivanja znanstvenika, o njoj su pisali najpoznatiji hrvatski knjiæevnici poput Augusta ©enoe i Miroslava Krleæe, dogaaje iz nje slikali su Oton IvekoviÊ, Ferdo Quiquerez i Mirko RaËki, a mnogi kipari, meu kojima je uz Antuna AugustinËiÊa najpoznatiji Robert Frangeπ-MihanoviÊ, nastojali seljaËkom voi Matiji Gupcu dati dojmljiv lik. Ona je bila i poticaj da se na njezinu 400. obljetnicu u Gornjoj Stubici osnuje Muzej seljaËkih buna kao dio veÊega spomeniËkog kompleksa, zajedno sa spomenikom Matiji Gupcu i SeljaËkoj buni, s perivojem i alejom koja vodi do viπe od Ëetiri stoljeÊa stare GupËeve lipe. Pod njom su se prema legendi sastajali ustaniËki kapetani pripremajuÊi pobunu. Danas, u hladu njezine kroπnje, posjetitelji mogu predahnuti i kuπati koji od specijaliteta kleti Pod lipom. Nedaleko, na susjednom brijegu, nalazi se selo Hiæakovec u kojemu je æivio Matija Gubec, odnosno kmet kojega urbari navode pod imenom Ambroz Gubec, a povjesniËari ga povezuju sa seljaËkim voom − kraljem Matijaπem. M u ze j s e l j a Ë k i h b u n a s m j e π te n j e u nekadaπnjem dvorcu OrπiÊevih, a njegov se prvi postav temeljio na autorskoj zamisli povjesniËara i istraæivaËa dr. sc. Josipa AdamËeka, koji je o SeljaËkoj buni objavio mnoga znanstvena djela. Novi stalni postav otvoren je u lipnju 2002. godine, a zasnovan je na koncepciji istaknutog muzeologa Vladimira MalekoviÊa. Atraktivnim prostornim oblikovanjem uprizorene su odabrane teme iz feudalne proπlosti Zagorja, a suvremenim pristupom, inscenacijama i briæljivo selektiranom muzejskom graom posjetiteljima se nastoji pribliæiti razdoblje u kojemu su kmetovi i vlastelini svoju svakodnevicu Ëesto obojili krvavim sukobima. No tlaËitelji kmetova bili su i borci protiv Osmanlija i vojnici koji brane zemlju od turskih najezda, grade burgove i ureuju svoje ladanjske rezidencije, pa su ostavili Zagorju u naslijee mnoge dvorce i kurije. Povijesni se dogaaji publici nastoje prikazati preko razliËitih aspekta odnosa feudalnih staleæa i slojevitosti njihovih uloga. U novom postavu vidimo kako plemiÊi dugo æele zadræati privilegije koje im pruæa feudalizam, ali poneki od njih uviaju nuænost promjena. NaruËitelji

Piše/By Goranka Horjan Fotograﬁje/Photos Nikola DrempetiÊ HrËiÊ, Miljenko HegediÊ, Branimir KuÊan

U Muzeju seljaËkih buna u Gornjoj Stubici uprizorene su teme iz feudalne proπlosti Zagorja, razdoblja u kojemu su kmetovi i vlastelini æivjeli svoju svakodnevicu. DinamiËna povijest, kultura i umjetnost toga doba isprepleÊu se s pitomom svakodnevicom danaπnjega Zagorja. Muzej seljaËkih buna pravo je mjesto na kojemu treba poËeti πetnju tim lijepim, zelenim krajem… In the Peasants’ Revolt Museum in Gornja Stubica themes from Zagorje’s feudal past are enacted, from the period in which the serfs and noblemen lived their daily lives. The dynamic history, culture and art of that period have been intertwined with the tame daily life of today’s Zagorje. The Peasants’ Revolt Museum is the right place in which to start a walk through this unique, green region... CROATIA AIRLINES

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lijepih stvari i umjetnina Ëesto su bili nesmiljeni prema svojim podloænicima, no upravo se na zagorskim posjedima plemiÊkih obitelji poËela voditi skrb o seljacima, poticali su se obrti i poËelo s industrijskom proizvodnjom koja je Zagorje uvela u moderno doba. Stoga je Muzej seljaËkih buna pravo mjesto na kojemu treba poËeti πetnju feudalnim Zagorjem. Povijest, kultura, umjetnost i svakodnevica feudalnoga doba isprepliÊu se sa srediπnjom temom SeljaËke bune. Tadaπnje druπtvo æeli se prikazati ne samo kroz prizmu sukoba staleæa, nego i kroz slojevite promjene koje Hrvatsko zagorje prolazi od kasnoga srednjega vijeka do sluæbenog ukinuÊa kmetstva 1848. godine. Tema Vlastelinski gradovi otkriva nam niz fortiﬁkacija sagraenih u Zagorju u kasnome srednjem vijeku. Oruæje i bojna oprema omoguÊuje posjetiteljima uvid u vrstu naoruæanja i umijeÊe ratovanja u 16. i 17. stoljeÊu, a tema Anno Domini 1573. opisuje tijek dogaaja vezan uza SeljaËku bunu. Odgovore na pitanje zaπto Hrvatsko zagorje danas ima najveÊu koncentraciju plemiÊkih dvoraca u zemlji moæemo naÊi u dijelu postava PlemiÊki posjedi u 17. i 18. stoljeÊu. Muzejska ekspozicija zavrπava temama Hrvatski narodni preporod i Ban Josip JelaËiÊ i ukinuÊe kmetstva u Hrvatskoj 1848. godine, koje opisuju turbulentna zbivanja u 19. stoljeÊu, koja su, uz podizanje nacionalne svijesti, povele Hrvatsku u moderno doba. U postavu nas tema Galantno stoljeÊe upoznaje s obitelji OrπiÊ, nekadaπnjim vlasnicima gornjostubiËkog posjeda, koji su ih stekli u 17. stoljeÊu na temelju nelijepih okolnosti. Naime, Ivan Franjo OrπiÊ, koji se istaknuo brojnim vojnim zaslugama u svojoj uspjeπnoj karijeri, bio je suprug Elizabete PetriËeviÊ, sestre Franje PetriËeviÊa od Gornje Stubice. U gor-

njostubiËkom je kaπtelu gospodar PetriËeviÊ 1658. ubio svoju suprugu, barunicu Katarinu KegleviÊ. Okrutno ubojstvo Ëlanice jedne od najistaknutijih hrvatskih plemiÊkih obitelji nije moglo proÊi nekaænjeno. Stoga je PetriËeviÊ svoje posjede ustupio πurjaku Ivanu Franji OrπiÊu kako ih baruniËina obitelj ne bi mogla traæiti kao naknadu. Kustosi i vodiËi u Muzeju mogu posjetiteljima ispriËati joπ mnoπtvo sliËnih zanimljivih priËa - o prekrasnoj Mariji Tereziji Wintershoffen, koju je suprug Antun OrπiÊ optuæio za preljub i Ëarobnjaπtvo, o Bernardinu OrπiÊu, koji je stradao kao ærtva ljubomore groﬁce Vojkﬁ. Ima i lijepih priËa, kao πto je skladan i uspjeπan æivot Krste i Josipe OrπiÊ, koji su Zagorju ostavili dva prekrasna barokna dvorca i bogatu kulturnu ostavπtinu. Josipa OrπiÊ autorica je i poznatoga veterinarskog priruËnika na kajkavskom jeziku BetegujuÊe æivine vraËitel, koji se Ëuva u zbirci Druπtva Kajkaviana u obliænjem dvorcu StubiËki Golubovec. U Muzeju, u dvorskoj kapeli koju su podigli OrπiÊevi, nalaze se zidne slike istaknutog baroknog majstora Antona Lerchingera, a u njoj je i stalna izloæba crkvene umjetnosti. Dodatnu obradu tema iz postava Muzej provodi popratnim aktivnostima, izloæbama i dogaanjima. Muzej seljaËkih buna prvi je u Hrvatskoj poËeo s dogaanjima oæivljene povijesti. Isprva obiljeæavanjem obljetnice SeljaËke bune, kad se æivim crticama iz bune, a poslije i uprizorenjem same stubiËke bitke, nastoji publiku upoznati s regionalnom i nacionalnom povijeπÊu. Obljetnica bune danas se obiljeæava u stubiËkoj dolini velikim dogaanjem u kojemu sudjeluju mnoge udruge, πto je jedinstven doæivljaj za publiku koja svake veljaËe dolazi pogledati uprizorenje bitke. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Prije jedanaest godina poËeo je i prvi viteπki turnir u Hrvatskoj na prostoru i u organizaciji Muzeja seljaËkih buna. To je jedini turnir koji nastoji slojevito oæivjeti naËin ratovanja u 16. stoljeÊu, uz prikaz dvoboja konjanika i njihovih vjeπtina. Vaæno je istaknuti joπ jednu novu ulogu Muzeja i novoga postava u Gornjoj Stubici, a to su tematske radionice za posjetitelje razliËitih uzrasta, namijenjene onima koji æele nauËiti viπe o pojedinim sadræajima. Dobar je primjer radionica Heraldika, koja donosi znanja o plemiÊkim grbovima, zatim su tu demonstracije streliËarenja i maËevanja, a za one vjeπtije moguÊe je organizirati i da sami iskuπaju pojedine vjeπtine. Kostimirana vodstva o temi Legende i priËe iz zagorskih dvoraca oslikavaju feudalno razdoblje iz sasvim novoga kuta, a za najmlae tu su i lutkarske radionice koje na zabavan naËin mogu pribliæiti teme poput gradnje utvrenih gradova − burgova. Novi interaktivni vodiË za djecu kroz stalni postav donosi i smijeπnu stranu povijesti. Posljednjih nekoliko godina Muzej provodi arheoloπka istraæivanja tijekom kojih je istraæen veliki dio nekadaπnjega Tahijeva kaπtela u Donjoj Stubici, πto je donijelo nove spoznaje o povijesti kraja. U partnerstvu s razliËitim udrugama Muzej organizira predstave i glazbene nastupe, a Ljeto u dvorcu OrπiÊ veÊ je niz godina prepoznato kao mjesto gdje se mogu posluπati vrhunski glazbenici klasiËne, ali i suvremene glazbe. Dakle, Muzej nema samo baπtinsku ili edukativnu ulogu, nego je i aktivno propriπte razliËitih kulturnih dogaanja. I muzejski postav nije samo pregled i saæetak kulturno-povijesne situacije na prostoru Hrvatskoga zagorja od 14. do polovice 19. stoljeÊa, nego je i snaæan poticaj za daljnja istraæivanja toga osobito zanimljivoga prostora, tako blizu Zagrebu. Muzej seljaËkih buna moæemo smatrati polaziπnom toËkom za istraæivanje feudalnog razdoblja u Hrvatskom zagorju, poticajem koji svakom radoznalcu moæe donijeti radost otkrivanja dvoraca i kurija, zanimljivih sudbina plemiÊa i podloænika, uæivanje u lijepim krajolicima i perivojima πto okruæuju plemiÊke rezidencije. Proπlost bogata i raznovrsna u svojoj slojevitosti otkriva dio po dio mnogih tajni, ostavljajuÊi nas iznenaene ali i ponukane da istraæujemo dalje, jer joπ mnogo toga nije otkriveno. n

t dusk, when the autumn sun sets in the west, it casts its red rays across the Stubica valley. A ﬁery coloured landscape inadvertently reminds us of stormy past events and the great Peasants’ Revolt, which marked the distant 1573 with its bloody 40

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chronicles. Gubec’s revolt, as it is popularly known by the name of its leader, spread the fame not only of the Stubica area but also of all of Zagorje, as the place where ancient rights were indeed greatly valued. Already in the 17th century, the revolt was the subject of scientific research. Well known Croatian writers, such as August ©enoa and Miroslav Krleæa wrote about it; the revolt inspired paintings by Oton IvekoviÊ, Ferdo Quiquerez and Mirko RaËki, while a number of sculptors, including Antun AugustinËiÊ and the most famous, Robert Frangeπ MihanoviÊ, tried to provide the peasants’ leader, Matija Gubec, with a striking figure. Even one of the most successful Croatian rock operas, Gubec Beg, was inspired by the revolt. The marking of the 400th anniversary of the revolt was also the inspiration behind the opening of the Peasants’ Revolt Museum in Gornja Stubica. The museum makes up a part of the monumental complex, together with the Monument to Matija Gubec and the Peasants’ Revolt, with gardens and a tree-lined walkway that leads to Gubec’s linden − an over four centuries old tree. According to legend, the captains of the future rebellion met below the tree to discuss battle plans. Today, in the shadows of its tree top, visitors can take a break and try some of the specialties prepared in the restaurant Pod lipom (Under the Linden Tree). Not far from here, on the neighbouring hilltop, is the village Hiæakovec, where Matija Gubec lived, that is, the peasant whose name was recorded in the old municipal books as Ambroz Gubec, and who historians associate with the peasants’ king Matija. The Peasants’ Revolt Museum is situated in the one-time palace of the OrπiÊ family, and its fi rst exhibit was based on the original idea of the historian and researcher, Josip AdamËek, PhD, who published many scientific works on the subject of the Peasants’ Revolt. The new permanent display opened in June of 2002 and was based on the concept of the prominent museologist Vladimir MalekoviÊ. The attractive design of the space offers selected themes from Zagorje’s feudal past, while the modern approach, inscenation and carefully selected museum holdings attempt to provide the visitors with insight into the period in which the everyday lives of the serfs and noblemen were often coloured with bloody conflicts. However, the peasants’ oppressors were also fighters against the Ottoman Empire and the soldiers who defended the land against Turkish invasion. They built burgs and maintained their country residences, and so they left Zagorje with a

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legacy of many castles and manors. The museum is an attempt to present historical events from different aspects of the relations among feudal classes and the complexity of their roles. The new exhibit shows how the noblemen wanted to hold on to the privileges they were entitled to under feudalism for as long as possible, but also, how a few of them recognized the necessity for change. Those who commissioned beautiful things and pieces of art were often merciless toward their serfs. However, it was precisely the noble families on the estates in Zagorje who started to take care of their serfs; they encouraged them to engage in crafts; industrial production began and brought Zagorje into the modern era. Therefore, the Peasants’ Revolt Museum is the right place in which to start a walk through feudal Zagorje. History, culture, art and the daily life of the feudal period are all interwoven with the central theme of the Peasants’ Revolt. Society at that time is shown not only through a prism of conflicting classes, but through the complex changes that Hrvatsko Zagorje underwent from the late Middle Ages to the official abolition of serfdom in 1848. The theme Noble Cities shows us a series of fortifications

built in Zagorje during the late Middle Ages. Weapons and Military Equipment gives the visitors insight into the types of weapons and the art of warfare in the 16th and 17th centuries, while the theme Anno Domini 1573 describes the course of developments directly related to the Peasants’ Revolt. We can find the answer to the question as to why Hrvatsko Zagorje today has the greatest concentration of noble castles in the country in the section presenting Noble Estates in the 17th and 18th Centuries. The museum displays end with the topic Croatian National Revival and Ban Josip JelaËiÊ and the Abolition of Serfdom in Croatia in 1848, which describes the turbulent events in the 19th century, which in addition to raising national awareness in Croatia brought Croatia into the modern era. The Gallant Century exhibit introduces us to the OrπiÊ family, the one-time owners of the estate in Gornja Stubica, the possession of which they acquired in the 17th century under somewhat grim circumstances. In fact, Ivan Franjo OrπiÊ, who received a number of military merits during his successful career, was married to Elizabeta PetriËeviÊ, the sister of Franjo PetriËeviÊ of Gornja Stubica. In 1658, master PetriËeviÊ killed his wife, Baroness CROATIA AIRLINES

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Katarina KegleviÊ in the castle in Gornja Stubica. The brutal murder of a member of a most prominent Croatian noble family could not go unpunished. Therefore, PetriËeviÊ ceded his estate to his brother-in-law, Ivan Franjo OrπiÊ, so that the baroness’s family could not ask for it in compensation. The curators and guides at the museum can share many similar and interesting stories with visitors − about the beautiful Maria Theresa Wintershoffen, whose husband, Antun OrπiÊ, accused her of adultery and witchcraft, or about Bernardin OrπiÊ, who was the victim of the jealous Countess Vojkffy. There are also endearing stories, such as the one about the harmonious and successful lives of Krsto and Josipa OrπiÊ, who have left Zagorje two beautiful Baroque castles and a rich cultural heritage. Josipa OrπiÊ was the author of the well known veterinary reference manual, BetegujuÊe Æivine VraËitel (The Healer of Sick Animals), which she composed in the Kajkavian dialect. It is part of the collection of the Kajkaviana Association in nearby StubiËki Golubovec Castle. In the museum, the castle’s chapel, which was built by the OrπiÊ family, houses wall paintings by the prominent Baroque master, Anton Lerchinger, as well as the permanent exhibition of sacral art. Further elaboration of the themes displayed 44

in the museum is provided by way of concurrent activities, exhibitions and events. The Peasants’ Revolt Museum was the first in Croatia to launch revived history pageants. Initially, they marked the anniversary of the Peasants’ Revolt with pageants or tableaux vivants of scenes from the revolt, and later the entire battle of Stubica was staged, all with the purpose of introducing the audience to the regional and national history. The anniversary of the revolt is today marked in Stubica valley by a great event involving a number of participating associations. This is a unique experience for the people who come every February to see the staging of the battles. Another first for Croatia was the knights’ tournament that was first organized eleven years ago by the Peasants’ Revolt Museum and held on its premises. It has been taking place ever since as the only tournament which aims to revive the different facets and methods of warfare in the 16th century through duels between horsemen and displays of their skills. It is important to point out another new role of the museum and the new display in Gornja Stubica: the themed workshops for visitors of all ages, aimed at those who would like to learn more about certain elements of the exhibit. A good example is the workshop

Heraldika which teaches about the noble coats-of-arms, as well as demonstrates archery and fencing. As part of this workshop, special arrangements can be made for those with advanced dexterity and skills to try out their individual talents. Costumed guided tours on the subject Legends and Stories from the Castles of Zagorje look at the feudal period from a completely new angle, and there are puppet show workshops for children, which offer an entertaining approach to some serious topics, such as the construction of fortiﬁed towns − burgs. The new children’s interactive guide of the permanent exhibition is another rather entertaining take on history. In the past few years, the museum has carried out archaeological research which has explored a large part of the once Tahy Castle in Donja Stubica and revealed, in the process, new information about the history of the area. In cooperation with various associations, the museum organizes shows and musical performances. For a few years already, OrπiÊ Castle has been known as a place where you can listen to top musicians of classical as well as modern music every summer. The museum does not purport to be only a custodian of heritage or an institution with an educational role; it is also an active scene for various cultural events. Even the museum exhibit itself is much more than an overview and summary of the culture and history of the region of Hrvatsko Zagorje from the 14th to the 19th century. It is a powerful incentive to further investigate this especially interesting region, located so close to Zagreb. The Peasants’ Revolt Museum can be seen as a starting point for the exploration of the feudal period in Hrvatsko Zagorje, as an incentive that can reward a curious mind with the joy of discovering the castles and manors, the interesting fates of the nobles and their subjects, with the delight of admiring the beautiful landscapes and gardens that surround the noble residences. The rich and multilayered history reveals its secrets one after the other, leaving us amazed but prompted to go on exploring, because there is still much more to be discovered. n

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■ OBALA COAST

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Piπe/By Dubravka Belas

Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

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Ondje gdje Mediteran duboko uklizuje u meki trbuh srednje Europe, mnogo je toga πto Êe vas podsjetiti na najbolji dio francuske rivijere. Neopazice prelazit Êete kroz naselja koja Opatiji prethode ili joj slijede - Volosko, IËiÊi, Ika, Lovran, Medveja, MoπÊenice… kao kad iz Mentona ulazite u Monte Carlo ili onako kako se na Azurnoj obali redom niæu biseri ∑ Nica, Antibes, Cannes. Ali, Opatija je jedna i jedinstvena… 48

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I zimi, iz kavana, slastiËarnica i restorana zveckaju Ëaπe i pribor za jelo, a neËujno izmeu stolova klize konobari. Wellness centri, jedriliËarske regate, maskenbalovi, kongresi, koncerti, festivali… cijele se godine smjenjuju razlozi zbog kojih jednostavno morate biti u ovom gradu… CROATIA AIRLINES

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There where the Mediterranean slides deeply into the soft belly of Central Europe, there is much that will remind you of the best part of the French Riviera. You will unknowingly pass through the villages which come either before or after Opatija ∑ Volosko, IËiÊi, Ika, Lovran, Medveja, MoπÊenice... just like passing through Menton before you enter Monte Carlo or like when travelling along the Côte d’Azur you pass 50

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through the string of pearls â&#x2C6;&#x2018; Nice, Antibes and Cannes. But Opatija is the one and only. Even in winter from the coffee shops, pastry shops and restaurants you can hear the clinking of glasses and cutlery while the waiters glide silently between the tables. Wellness centres, sailing regattas, costume balls, congresses, concerts, festivals â&#x2C6;&#x2018; throughout the year the reasons why you simply must be in this city alternate. CROATIA AIRLINES

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puπtate se tako do kristalnoga, jednako azurnoga mora cestom koja krivuda izmeu vila utonulih u mirne perivoje i luksuznih hotela, u hladu palmi i lovora, istim putem kojim su se nekad s obronaka UËke ujesen spuπtali magarci natovareni kestenjem, drvom i ugljenom za kuÊerke teæaka, tkalja, ribara i mornara. U ta su vremena s mora prijetile mnoge opasnosti, stvarne ili tek zamiπljene, od davnina utisnute u pamÊenje, od osvajaËa do obiËnih gusara, pa su se kuÊe gradile u zaseocima povuËenima na blage padine u zaleu. Po pravilu uæom su stranom okrenute obali kako bi bile manje vidljive s mora. Usamljene ili u grozdovima, neke od njih mogu se joπ pronaÊi u danaπnjoj Opatiji. PodsjeÊaju na vrijedne i Ëestite ljude koji veÊ viπe od stoljeÊa i pol iz skromnih domova stiæu u sve te vile, dvorce i hotele odræavati, opskrbljivati i opsluæivati otmjeni kozmopolitski svijet. Njegovo πarenilo upotpunjuje onu Opatiju o kojoj piπe KumiËiÊ: Raskoπna Opatija. Sinje more miluje joj i cjeliva sparnim i teπkim jugom ispranu obalu. Iz tamnih lovor-gajeva i πumica proviruju bogati dvorci, draæesni zaseoci, gospodski ljetnikovci i mornarske kuÊice. Stranci iz Ëitavoga svijeta πto dolaze amo da se u prozirnom moru kupaju, prispodabljaju taj Ëarobni kutak naπe otadæbine s istom, glasovitom Nizzom. A u Viencu iz 1885. joπ piπe: Ljudi su u Opatiji sami mornari koji imadu malene posjede, na njih njeπto lovora, masline, gdjekoji trs, smokvu, πto im ne daje dovoljno priroda da se mogu prehraniti. Ljudi obiraju liπÊe sa svojih lovorah, pa ga prodavaju uz malenu cijenu. Dolazak mnoæine gospode u Opatiju daje ljudem dobra dobitka. Svaki od njih ima u malenoj luci Opatije po koju barku, pa vozi goste po moru amo tamo i dobiju za to plaÊu. I tako mornari i teæaci postadoπe barkarioli, trgovci ribom, voÊem i povrÊem. Drugi se upustiπe u gostioniËarstvo, slastiËarstvo, hotelijerstvo. I bi turizam. Opatija, grad s najduæom neprekinutom turistiËkom tradicijom u Hrvatskoj, ime je (Abbazia) dobila po pravoj opatiji, benediktinskom samostanu podignutom u poËetku 12. stoljeÊa uz crkvicu sv. Jakova, zaπtitnika grada. U srcu Liburnije, domovine pradavnoga i ponositog plemena Liburna, suvremenoga EtruπËanima i FeniËanima, Ëije gene autohtono stanovniπtvo i danas nosi, s vremenom se oko crkvice podignute na ostacima svetiπta liburnske boæice ljubavi, poËelo πiriti naselje. Kad je 1838. godine sagraena cesta uz more do Rijeke, poËeo se razvijati grad. Uskoro Êe rijeËka gospoπtina to mirno i skromno mjesto sa stotinjak kuÊa odabrati za odmor i predah od uæurbanosti i buke

velikoga luËkoga grada. RijeËki patricij i veletrgovac Iginio Scarpa 1844. Êe godine, a i ta se godina uzima kao sluæbeni poËetak turizma u Opatiji, dovrπiti prvu opatijsku vilu, Villu Angiolinu, raskoπni ljetnikovac usred botaniËkoga parka. Iste godine vila Êe, uz rijeËku elitu, ugostiti i mnoge strane posjetitelje, meu prvima austrijsku caricu Mariju Annu, botaniËara Heinricha Noëa, hrvatskoga bana Josipa JelaËiÊa, prestolonasljednika Rudolfa sa suprugom, krunskom princezom, i bezbroj drugih okrunjenih glava. Opatija oæivljava, na terasama se odræavaju ljetne zabave, u paviljonu svira æiva glazba, marπiraju puhaËki orkestri, ispred vile oblikuje se πetaliπte, sade biljke donesene izdaleka. Uz domaÊe mirte, planike, mogranje, Ëemprese, masline i ruæmarine, rajski vrtovi Opatije sada miriπu japanskim kamelijama i magnolijama, himalajskim cedrovima, ameriËkim tulipanovcima, bijele se platane, πuπtavi bambusi oblikuju πumarke, po proËeljima penju se kozokrvine, glicinije i pasiﬂore. U toploj sezoni grad se gotovo guπi u cvijeÊu. Vjerni gosti ubrzo potiËu osnivanje klimatskoga kupaliπnog ljeËiliπta. Najzasluæniji meu njima, generalni direktor austrijskih Juænih æeljeznica, dr. Friedrich Schüler, Ëije je kameno poprsje danas u Gradskome parku, spretan je i sposoban poduzetnik, ulaæe novac, kupuje zemljiπta, gradi ljetnikovce i hotele. Uz oduπevljenu potporu lijeËnika koji hvale ljekovitost podneblja, ubrzo se poËne Opatija puniti ne samo najimuÊnijom i najzahtjevnijom klijentelom, nego i onima koji ovamo pristigoπe traæiti izgubljeno zdravlje. KarlovaËki lijeËnik ©porer preporuËivao je kupanje u Opatiji svima koji pate od pluÊnih smetnji, æivËanih bolesti, kardiopatije, gastrohepatskih teπkoÊa, slabokrvnosti i iscrpljenosti. Otac abdominalne kirurgije, cijenjeni lijeËnik Theodor Billroth, Opatiju ovako preporuËuje u pismu prijatelju: u Italiji se Ëovjek lako prehladi, dok u Opatiji nema vjetrovitih i hladnih pasaæa pri πetnji. Upravo zbog njegova autoriteta, Opatija je 1889. godine proglaπena ljeËiliπnim mjestom. »etiri godine prije toga, 1885., tu je odræan prvi kongres, skup lijeËnika balneologa, postavπi presedanom bogatoj kongresnoj turistiËkoj ponudi Opatije. I jedan vaæan podatak za sladokusce - prijelomne 1900. godine otvoren je Pavillon für eine Conditorei, danaπnji Paviljon ©porer, u kojemu je stolovao Emile Gerbaud, porijeklom ©vicarac, glasoviti tvorniËar Ëokolade, vlasnik kavana ali i daroviti umjetnik-chocolatier, kreator mnogih nezaboravnih slastica, Ëija je slastiËarnica u Budimpeπti i danas meka ovisnika o slatkim zalogajima.

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Iako se taj turistiËki procvat odvijao u siromaπnome i pitomome mjestu vrlo naglo, Opatijci su se lako i brzo prilagoavali dominantnome beËkom duhu i kozmopolitskoj klijenteli. Brzo svladavaju strane jezike, prihvaÊaju nove obiËaje, nove uloge i pravila igre. ToËnost bez krutosti, organiziranost bez strogosti, pristojnost bez ukoËenosti, ali zato srdaËnost, opuπtenost i meusobno uvaæavanje nisu neπto na πto se bilo teπko naviknuti. Vrijedni primorski æivalj nije propustio ponuenu priliku, pa su se novi æivotni obrasci πirili posve mirno i prirodno. Samo su neki puËki obiËaji, poput muπkog kupanja bez odjeÊe u gradskoj luci, morali biti iskorijenjeni zabranom i kaznama. Ubrzo Opatija postaje zaπtitnim znakom austrougarskoga carstva, pa je Ëitav BeË rado dolazio ovamo, poËevπi od carske obitelji Habsburgovaca. Car Franjo Josip I. sreo se upravo ovdje s pruskim carem Vilimom II., o Ëemu tada izvjeπtava New York Times. Dok je njegova supruga Elizabeta, poznatija kao Sissy, boravila u Cap Martinu, on je odræavao tajnu vezu s njemaËkom glumicom Caterinom Schratt, koja je ljetne i jesenske mjesece radije provodila u Opatiji. Carev njemaËki kolega, Vilim II., ovamo je doveo suprugu i brojnu pratnju ∑ majordome, sobare, guvernante, dvorske dame, koËijaπe, Ëak i vrtlare. ©vedski kralj Oskar II., koji je ovdje boravio mjesecima, donirao je gradnju evangeliËke crkve, zbog sve viπe turista iz protestantske Sjeverne Europe. Nadvojvoda Rudolf sa suprugom Stephanie stigao je na otvorenje hotela u njezinu Ëast, prozvanoga Kronprinzessin Stephanie (danaπnji hotel Imperial), u ono doba jednoga od najraskoπnijih u Europi, s velebnom kazaliπnom dvoranom. U parku hotela poslije je postavljena mramorna Fontana sa skulpturama boæanstava Helija i Selene, alegorije Sunca i Mjeseca, dana i noÊi, pri Ëemu je dan predvien za kupanje u moru, a noÊ za ljubav. I Rudolfov je brak, poput oËeva, bio viπe stvar protokola nego ljubavi, pa je nakon sveËanog otvorenja nastavio dolaziti sâm i pronalaziti strast u drugim æenama. Neusporedivo je sretniji bio rumunjski kraljevski par. Kralj Karol i njegova supruga Elizabeta, pjesnikinja sa pseudonimom Carmen Sylva. Veliki zaljubljenici u Opatiju i njezinu okolicu darovali su popriliËno novca za popravak putova i gradnju πumskog πetaliπta. Njezini francuski stihovi ostali su uklesani na ploËi na πumskome putu. No nisu samo aristokrati opsjedali grad. Dolazili su slavni lijeËnici, botaniËari, bankari, politiËari, revolucionari, umjetnici, od opernih pjevaËa i skladatelja do literata. Pod laænim

imenom dr. JeræenkijeviËa boravio je ovdje i Vladimir IljiË Lenjin, a nakon Drugoga svjetskog rata, kao gosti Josipa Broza Tita, etiopski car Haile Selassie, vijetnamski dræavnik Ho-©i-Min, egipatski predsjednik Naser, indijski Dæavaharlar Nehru. Izmjenjivali su se perzijski πah Reza Pahlavi, HruπËov i Breænjev. Veliki osvajaË æenskih srca Giacomo Puccini, Pietro Mascagni, Arturo Toscanini, Giorgio de Chirico, Gabriele d’Annunzio, zatim Kalman, Gigli, »ehov, Molnar, Ady, Zilahy, Zinka Kunc, Tilla Durieux, Vladimir Nabokov, svi su oni bili opatijski gosti. Gustav Mahler, boleÊivo opsjednut smrÊu nakon tragiËnoga gubitka kÊeri, nekoliko je puta posjetio Opatiju, a ovdje je, u pratnji svoje muze i supruge Alme Mahler-Schindler, i skladao dijelove svoje 6. simfonije. Poljski nobelovac Henryk Sienkiewicz stiæe u Opatiju izlijeËiti grlobolju, na prvi se pogled zaljubljuje u grad, divi se egzotiËnim parkovima i luksuznim hotelima. Opatija je idealno mjesto, tvrdi, jer ima sve, i brda i more i zrak. Jedne kiπovite jeseni, kad mu je pomalo dosadno, napisao je ovdje Borbu bikova, preteËu svoga najvaænijeg djela Quo vadis. U Vili Amelia, 1902. godine, odsjeda sa svojom sestrom mlada plesaËica na vrhuncu popularnosti, Isadora Duncan, rodonaËelnica slobodnog plesa, buduÊa supruga Sergeja Jesenjina. O boravku u glasovitom kupaliπtu piπe u svojim memoarima. Neobuzdana i koketna, zadivila je mondenu opatijsku publiku, mnoge i sablaznila, uvela prvi put lagane, leprπave i svijetle kupaÊe kostime. Zadivila je i nadvojvodu Ferdinanda, koji je dæentlmenski uskoËio ponudivπi joj smjeπtaj kad ga nije uspjela sama naÊi. Kaæu da bi mu srce jaËe zalupalo kad bi dalekozorom uhvatio njezinu vrckavu ﬁguru i mrmljao u bradu: Ach, wie schön ist diese Duncan. Ach, wunder schön! Diese Fruhlingzeit ist nicht so schön wie sie... Isadoru je sve u Opatiji oduπevljavalo i opijalo, stabla, more, planina, a jedna je opatijska palma za njezinu umjetnost bila osobito inspirativna. Ispred prozora naπe ville rasla je palma koja je privukla svu naπu pozornost, jer dosad nisam nikada vidjela rasti palmu u slobodi. Svakoga sam dana promatrala njezine veliËanstvene listove kako podrhtavaju na jutarnjem povjetarcu. Od te sam palme preuzela ono lagano podrhtavanje ramena, ruku i grudi, u kojemu su moje oponaπateljice u plesu toliko pretjerivale, pisala je. Kad u Puli nije poduËavao engleski jezik, i James Joyce bi katkad, nakon πetnji niz Lungomare, predahnuo ispijajuÊi Ëaj na terasi hotela Imperijal. Istini za volju, nisu svi bili tako oduπevljeni kao Sienkiewicz, Ëiji je spomenik sada u CROATIA AIRLINES

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opatijskoj luci i promatra more onako kako je nekad, na istome mjestu, osluπkujuÊi slavuje i domaÊe, gledao brodove dok su, ispaljujuÊi rakete i s upaljenim ukrasnim vatrama, otplovljavali prema Rijeci. U vili Dalibor, u stanu knjiæevnika Viktora Cara Emina i njegove supruge, u poËetku proπlog stoljeÊa okupljala se hrvatska intelektualna elita. Fran Supilo, Iso Krπnjavi, DomjaniÊ, Nehajev, KranjËeviÊ. Vladimir Nazor nije mario za otmjeni kupaliπni svijet, ali ostao je oËaran stoljetnim hrastovima kojima korijenje zadire u more, kao da bi mu htjelo, govorio je, osporiti carstvo. Plemenitoga –alskoga, naprotiv, privlaËio je baπ taj πareni svijet πto se ovdje okupljao. Njegov je domaÊin Emin rekao da je prouËavao tipove, muπke, a bogme i æenske! Padom monarhije, prestaje i uspon mondenog ljetovaliπta. Trebala su desetljeÊa da se ponovno oporavi i vrati barem djeliÊ staroga sjaja. Gospoda su nastavila dolaziti, ali zacijelo je stizalo manje vojvoda, grofova i markiza, tek jedan πah i jedan car, ali zato su u poratnoj opatijskoj turistiËkoj ponudi svoje mjesto mogli pronaÊi i udarnici, u vrijeme kad je rad joπ bio vaæan i kad ste zalaganjem i marljivoπÊu mogli zasluæiti dvotjedni boravak u dotad nedostupnome otmjenom ljetovaliπtu. I svi bi se - i ta gospoda staroga kova i ti turisti hrapavih ruku, a odnedavno i posve novi bogataπi, i domaÊi i bjelosvjetski, i djeca sa sladoledom, i kupaËi, i πetaËi, slikali pokraj Djevojke s galebom, simbola Opatije, kipa podignutoga pedesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa na mjestu tragiËne Madonne, koju je jedne noÊi more iπËupalo s hridi. G rand hoteli i dalje su be sprije kor no odræavani, na terasama i dalje sviraju orkestri, u dvoranama se sluπaju operne arije, odræavaju se glazbeni festivali. I dalje vjerni gosti unajmljuju vile na viπe mjeseci, ali sad ËeπÊe, u jednoj od najljepπih jadranskih marina, borave na svojim jahtama. Iz kavana, slastiËarnica i restorana zveckaju Ëaπe i pribor za jelo, neËujno izmeu stolova klize konobari, na πetaliπtima uz more æamore πetaËi i joπ je sve u besprijekornoj sluæbi velike radionice lagodnosti i uæivanja, Ëiste industrije hedonizma. Wellness centri, jedriliËarske regate, maskenbalovi, kongresi, koncerti, festivali, cijele se godine smjenjuju razlozi zbog kojih jednostavno morate biti u ovom gradu. Sagraen je suvremeni ThalassoWellness centar u Opatiji, koji prvi put u Hrvatskoj uvodi novu granu wellnessa - medicinski wellness. I da, i dalje se velika paænja pridaje opatijskom cvijeÊu i perivojima. Na uglednom natjecanju Entente Florale ∑ Zlatni cvijet Europe, Grad Opatija je prije nekoliko godina, u konkurenciji 60

viπe od 5800 prijavljenih gradova kandidata, osvojio srebrnu nagradu. S obzirom na najdulju turistiËku tradiciju u Hrvatskoj, vjerojatno nigdje drugdje na tako malom prostoru ne postoji viπe restorana sljedbenika slow food kulture, kao πto je to u Opatiji i njezinoj okolici. A kad se veÊ govori o gastronomskim uæicima, treba spomenuti joπ jedan dar prirode ovom kraju ∑ lovranske marune, endemiËnu sortu kestena meu najkvalitetnijima na svijetu. Bio bi grijeh ne iskoristiti do kraja te krupne i slasne plodove, pa je osmiπljena Marunada, gastro festival tijekom kojega se maruni uæivaju na sve moguÊe naËine, peËeni, kao juhe i slana jela, kuhani i protisnuti u prozraËan pire s tuËenim vrhnjem, i, napokon, u najboljim, najraskoπnijim kolaËima na svijetu. Stoga je Marunada proπle jeseni opravdano uvrπtena meu deset najboljih europskih gastro festivala, prema izboru britanskog lista Guardian. I dok tako, ljuπteÊi mirisne peËene marune, πetate opatijskom πetnicom, naiÊi Êete na neπto πto podsjeÊa na Walk of Fame holivudskog bulevara. Mramorne zvijezde pod vaπim nogama posveÊene su osobama koje su pronijele glas Hrvatske svojim umjetniËkim, znanstvenim, sportskim radom. Petnaest uglednih hrvatskih institucija tvori Komisiju za nominacije, koja svake godine predlaæe imena ljudi Ëiji doprinos smatraju osobitim: tu su Nikola Tesla, Janica KosteliÊ, Slavoljub Penkala, Draæen PetroviÊ i mnogi drugi... A noÊu, kad napokon prave zvijezde prekriju svod, πetnice opuste, a mjeseËina se poput mlijeka izlije na usnulu Staru damu, uËinit Êe vam se moæda da neπto ipak svjetluca u Ëudesnome zimskom vrtu, najljepπe, sada prazne i divno zapuπtene Ville Mintz. Moæda vam se od drhtanja palmina liπÊa, u perivoju koji opija mirisom kamelija, uËini da leluja najﬁniji krepdeπin Isadorine plesne koπulje, od πapta bambusova liπÊa u gradskom parku da πuπte Ëipkaste podsuknje, od vlastitih koraka da to zapravo iz maglice koja se diæe s mora izranjaju novopridoπli putnici kao nekad iz pare vlakova s kolodvora u Matuljima.... A more, to beskrajno, moÊno i mirno more πto stidljivim i sitnim poljupcima oblizuje opustjele plaæe, dræeÊi obeÊanje o opatijskim noÊima stvorenima za ljubav, to more jedva Ëujno diπe, kao da ovdje njegov spokoj, s malim daπkom proπle grandezze i posve svjeæe melankolije, uopÊe moæe biti veÊi od vaπega... ■ ou descend down to the crystal navy blue sea, similar to the Côte d’Azur, on a road which winds between the villas immersed in peaceful

gardens and the luxury hotels, in the shade of palm and laurel trees, along the same route down the slopes of UËka which in the autumns long ago donkeys would descend laden with chestnuts, wood and coal for the small houses of the farmers, weavers, fishermen and sailors. At that time the sea was threatening and full of dangers, either real or only imaginary. From ancient times those threats were burned into one’s memory, from conquers to ordinary pirates, and so the houses were built in the hamlets away from the sea on the gentle slopes of the hinterland. As a rule, the narrow sides of the houses faced the coast so they would be less conspicuous from the sea. Solitary or in clusters, some of them can still be found in today’s Opatija. They remind us of the hard working and decent people who for already more than a century and a half have set off from their humble homes to all those villas, palaces and hotels to maintain, cater and serve the refined cosmopolitan guests. Their colourful variety makes up the Opatija that KumiËiÊ writes about: Luxurious Opatija. The vast sea caresses its shores, weathered by the sultry and heavy southern winds. From the darkness of the laurel groves and boskets peer rich palaces, charming villages, lordly villas and sailors’ houses. Foreigners who come here from all around the world to swim in the clear sea compare this magical corner of our motherland with the same, famous Nice. As written in the paper Vienac in 1885, this still holds true: The people in Opatija are only sailors who have small estates with some laurel, olives, maybe some grape vines and fig trees which do not provide enough to feed them. The people pick the leaves from their laurel trees and sell them for a small price. The arrival of many noblemen in Opatija provides a good profit to the locals. Each of them has some kind of boat in the small port of Opatija and so they provide guests with sea transportation for a fee. And so the sailors and labourers became barkarioli (boat rowers) fish, fruit and vegetable traders. Others engaged in the restaurant business, baking and the hotel industry. So there was tourism. Opatija (Abbazia), the city with the longest uninterrupted tourism tradition in Croatia, was named after a real abbey that included a Benedictine monastery which was built at the start of the 12th century, along with the small church of Saint Jacob, the city’s patron saint. In the heart of Liburnia, the homeland of an ancient and proud Illyrian tribe, the contemporaries of the Etruscan and

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Phoenicians, whose genes are still carried by the indigenous population, over time the village expanded around the little church which had been erected on the remains of the sanctuary to the Luburian goddess of love. The city really began to develop when a coastal road to Rijeka was built in 1838. Soon the nobility of Rijeka chose this quiet and modest place consisting of one hundred houses as a place to rest and take a break from the fast pace and noise of the big port town. In 1844, Rijeka patrician and tradesman, Iginio Scarpa, completed the construction of the first villa in Opatija, Villa Angiolina, a luxurious villa in the centre of a botanical park. Therefore, that year marks the official beginning of tourism in Opatija. It was also the year that the villa hosted, in addition to elite guests from Rijeka, a number of foreign visitors, such as the Archduchess Maria Anna of Austria, the botanist Heinrich Noë, the Croatian ban Josip JelaËiÊ, Crown Prince Rudolf and his wife, with the crown princess and countless other crowned heads. Opatija was the centre of life; summer entertainment took place on the terraces, live music played in the beach pavilions, brass band orchestras marched around, a promenade started being formed in front of the villas, and plants brought from far away were planted. In addition to the domestic myrtle, strawberry trees, pomegranates, cypresses, olives and rosemary, the heavenly gardens of Opatija now smell of Japanese camellias and magnolias, Himalayan cedar, American tulips; the white London Planes sparkle in the sun, the rustling bamboo forms groves, and the façades are covered with climbing honeysuckle, wisteria and passionflower. In the warm season the town is practically choking with flowers. The loyal guests were quick to prompt the setting up of a climatic bathing spa. The most deserving of them was the general director of the Austrian Southern Railway Company, Dr. Friedrich Schüler, whose stone bust today stands in the city park. The resourceful and capable business man invested money, bought land and built villas and hotels. As a result of the enthusiastic support of physicians who praised the therapeutic climate, Opatija soon began to fill up with not only the most affluent and most demanding clientele, but also those who came here in search of lost health. A doctor from Karlovac, ©porer, recommended bathing in Opatija to everyone who suffered from lung disorders, nerve disorders, cardiopathy, gastrohepatic diffi culties, anaemia and exhaustion. The father of abdominal surgery, the respected doctor Theodor Billroth, thus recommended 62

Opatija in a letter to a friend: In Italy a man can easily catch a cold, while in Opatija there are no windy and cold passages when walking. It was due to his authority that in 1889 Opatija was declared a health resort. Four years prior to that, in 1885, the first congress was held here; a gathering of medical balneologists, which was a precedent to the rich congress tourist offer of Opatija. One more important fact for gourmets ∑ at the beginning of 1900, the Pavillon für eine Conditorei opened, today’s Pavilion ©porer, which benefitted from the genius of Emile Gerbaud, of Swiss origin, the owner of the famous chocolate factory and a number of cafes, a gifted chocolatier and the creator of many memorable desserts. Today his pastry shop in Budapest is a real Mecca for those who are addicted to sweet treats. Even though this tourist boom took place very quickly in a poor and quiet place, the people of Opatija easily and quickly adjusted to the dominating Viennese spirit and cosmopolitan clientele. The quickly learned foreign languages, accepted new customs, new roles and rules of the game. Precision without rigidity, organization without severity, politeness without stiffness, but also cordiality, a relaxed attitude and mutual respect were not difficult to get used to. The hardworking coastal populace did not miss any opportunity offered, and so the new models of living spread in a completely calm and natural manner. There were just a few folk traditions that had to be eradicated by way of prohibition and penalties, such as men swimming without clothes in the city’s harbour. Opatija quickly became the trademark of the AustroHungarian Empire, and all of Vienna enjoyed coming here, starting with the members of the imperial family, the Habsburgs. Emperor Franz Joseph I met right here with Prussian Emperor William II, which at the time was reported in the New York Times. While his wife, Elisabeth, better known as Sissy, was staying in Cap Martin he maintained a secret relationship with the German actress Katherine Schratt, who enjoyed spending the summer and autumn months in Opatija. The emperor’s German colleague, William II, also brought his wife here, as well as a number of escorts ∑ majordomos, valets, governesses, ladies in waiting, coachmen, and even gardeners. The Swedish king, Oscar II, who would stay here for months, financed the construction of the Evangelist church, which brought greater numbers of tourists from the Protestant countries of Northern Europe. Archduke Rudolf and his wife Stephanie arrived at the opening of a

hotel in her honour called the Kronprinzessin Stephanie, (now the Imperial Hotel), at that time one of the most splendid in Europe, and which also included a magnificent theatre. In the park of the hotel a marble fountain was later erected, with statues of the deities Helios and Selene, an allegory of the sun and moon, day and night, where the day is spent swimming in the sea and the night is for love. Rudolf’s marriage, like his father’s, was more a matter of protocol than love, and so after the opening ceremony he continued to come and find passion in other women. Incomparably happier was the Romanian royal couple, King Carol and his wife Elisabeth, a poet who used the pseudonym Carmen Sylva. As great admirers of Opatija and its surroundings, they donated considerable sums of money to repair the roads and construct paths for walking through the forest. Her French verses have remained engraved on the boards along the forest path. It was not just aristocrats who were obsessed with the city. Other guests included famous doctors, botanists, bankers, politicians, revolutionaries and artists, from opera singers and composers to writers. Vladimir Illyich Lenin stayed here under the alias Dr. Jerzenkijevitz, and after World War II the guests of Joseph Broz Tito included the Ethiopian emperor Haile Selassie, the Vietnamese statesman Ho Chi Minh, the Egyptian president Nasser and the Indian Jawaharlal Nehru. The Persian Shah Reza Pahlavi, Khrushchev and Brezhnev took turns coming. Other guests in Opatija also included great womanizers, such as Giacomo Puccini, Pietro Mascagni, Arturo Toscanini, Giorgio de Chirico, Gabriele d’Annunzio, as well as Kalman, Gigli, »ehov, Molnar, Ady, Zilahy, Zinka Kunc, Tilla Durieux and Vladimir Nabokov. Gustav Mahler, who was obsessed with death after the tragic loss of his daughter, visited Opatija a few times. Accompanied by his muse and wife, Alma Mahler-Schindler, he composed part of his Sixth Symphony while in Opatija. The Polish Nobel Prize winner, Henryk Sienkiewicz, came to Opatija to cure a sore treat. He fell in love with the city at first sight, admiring its exotic parks and luxury hotels. He claimed that, Opatija is an ideal place. It has everything; mountains, the sea and fresh air. One rainy autumn day, when he was a bit bored, he wrote Bull Fight, the precursor to his most important work: Quo Vadis. In 1902, a young dancer and her sister stayed in Villa Amelia. Isadora Duncan, the creator of modern dance and the future wife of Sergei Yesenin, was then at the peak of her popularity. She wrote about staying at the

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famous resort in her memoirs. Unrestrained and flirtatious, she mesmerized the fashionable Opatija public, and scandalized many; she was the first to introduce lightweight, fly-away and bright coloured swimsuits. She also impressed Archduke Ferdinand, who was a gentleman and jumped to offer her accommodation when she failed to find it herself. They say that his heart started racing when, through his binoculars, he saw her perky figure, and he muttered under his breath: Ach, wie schön ist diese Duncan. Ach, wunder schön! Diese Fruhlingzeit ist nicht so schön wie sie... Isadora was smitten and entranced with everything in Opatija; the trees, sea and mountains, and even one of Opatija’s palm trees was especially inspirational for her art. In front of the window of our villa grows a palm tree which has attracted all of our attention because until now I have never seen a palm tree grow in nature. Every day I watch how its magnificent leaves flutter in the morning breeze. From that palm tree I have adopted that gentle fluttering of the shoulder, hand and chest which was later pushed to the extremes by all those dancers who wanted to imitate me, she writes. When he was not giving English lessons in Pula, James Joyce was known to take a break to sip tea on the terrace of the Hotel Imperial after walking along the Lungomare (promenade). Truth be told, not everyone was as enthusiastic as Sienkiewicz, whose monument now stands in Opatija’s harbour observing the sea as he once did, in the same place, listening to the nightingales and the locals as he watched the ships that sailed toward Rijeka, fi ring rockets and with Easter lights burning. At the start of last century, the Croatian intellectual elite, Fran Supilo, Iso Krπnjavi, DomjaniÊ, Nehajev and KranjËeviÊ, started to gather in the apartment of writer Vikor Car Emin and his wife in Villa Dalibor. Vladimir Nazor did not care for the noble spa world, but as he said, he remained fascinated by the ancient oak trees with their roots stretching into the sea, as if they want to challenge the empire. The nobleman Gjalski, on the contrary, was attracted to that very colourful world that gathered here. His host Emin said about him that he had been busy studying people, men, and women! With the fall of the monarchy, the rise of the popular resort also halted. It took decades for it to recover and regain at least some of the old glory. The good and the great continued to come, but certainly there were fewer dukes, counts and marquises, only one shah and one emperor. Consequently, 64

the more democratic post-war tourist supply of Opatija opened its door to shock-workers at the time when labour was still important and when hard work and diligence could earn you a two-week stay in the elegant resort that was hitherto out-of-bounds to the common people. The colourful melange consisting of old world gentlemen and the tourists with rough hands, recent parvenus, both local and foreign, children with ice cream, swimmers and walkers, all had their photos taken in front of the Maiden with a Seagull, the symbol of Opatija, a statue erected in the 1950s on the location of the tragic Madonna, who one night was torn from the rocks by the sea. The grand hotels are still impeccably maintained, orchestras are still playing on the terraces, in the theatres you can listen to opera arias, and music festivals are being held. Loyal guests continue to rent villas for many months, but even more of them stay on their own yachts in one of the most beautiful marinas on the Adriatic. From the coffee shops, pastry shops and restaurants you can hear the clinking of glasses and cutlery, the waiters glide silently between the tables, while the murmur of the walkers comes from the promenade along the sea. Everything is still in the impeccable service of the big industry of leisure and pleasure; the pure hedonism industry. Wellness centres, sailing regattas, costume balls, congresses, concerts, festivals ∑ throughout the year the reasons why you simply must be in this city alternate. The modern ThalassoWellness Centre was built in Opatija, which for the first time in Croatia has introduced a new branch of wellness ∑ medicinal wellness. And yes, great attention is still given to Opatija’s flowers and gardens. A few years ago, at the prestigious competition Entente Florale Europe (Golden Flower of Europe), in competition with more than 5,800 candidates, the City of Opatija won a silver medal. Considering the fact that it has the longest tourist tradition in Croatia, probably nowhere else in such a small area are there more followers of the slow food restaurant culture as in Opatija and its surroundings. And since we are already talking about culinary delights, we should mention another gift of nature in this region ∑ the Lovran chestnut, an endemic variety of chestnuts which is among the best in the world. It would be a sin not to give full credit to the large and tasty fruit, and so the Marunada was thought up, a culinary festival during which the chestnuts are enjoyed in all possible ways; baked, in soups and savoury dishes, boiled and mashed into an airy purée served with whipped cream, and finally, they

are used in the best, most luxurious cakes in the world. Therefore, last autumn the Marunada Festival was justifiably included among the ten best European gastronomic festivals, according to the British Guardian. And while you peel the fragrant roasted chestnuts walking along the Opatija promenade, you will come across something that reminds you of the Walk of Fame on Hollywood Boulevard. The marble stars under your feet are dedicated to people who have spread Croatia’s reputation through their artistic, scientific and sports activities. Fifteen prominent Croatian institutions make up the nominating committee which each year recommends the names of people whose contributions are considered exceptional: such as Nikola Tesla, Janica KosteliÊ, Slavoljub Penkala, Draæen PetroviÊ and many others... And at night, when at last the true stars cover the sky, the promenade is abandoned, and a moon like milk emerges over the dreaming Old Lady, you may think that you see something glitter in the wonderful winter garden of the beautiful, now empty and neglected, magnificent Villa Mintz. Perhaps the fluttering palm leaves in the garden which intoxicate with the scent of camellia will conjure up the finest Crêpe-de-Chine of Isadora’s dancing shirt billowing in the breeze; the whispering of the bamboo leaves in the city park may resemble the rustling of lace petticoats; your own steps may make you believe that they belong to the newly arrived travellers emerging from the mists which rise from the sea, as they once emerged from the steam of the trains at the station in Matulji... And the sea, that endless, powerful and calm sea, which licks the deserted beaches with timid and tiny kisses, holding the promise of Opatija’s nights created for love, the sea can hardly be heard breathing, as if here its tranquillity, with a little hint of the past grandezze and completely fresh melancholy, can hardly be any bigger than yours... ■

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DUBROVNIK - grad za sva godiπnja doba - a city for all seasons D

ubrovnik je grad za sva godiπnja doba. Svako dubrovaËko godiπnje doba ima svoj osobit πarm, i topli ljetni dani kad turisti hrle u Grad, ali i blagi, mirni zimski mjeseci.

Svaki dan, bez obzira na vremenske uvjete, pruæa brojne moguÊnosti za istraæivanje i uæivanje u Dubrovniku zimi. Nadahnite se zadivljujuÊom arhitekturom toga povijesno-

ga Grada, izgubite u zanimljivim sporednim ulicama, provedite dio svog vremena u jednoj od brojnih umjetniËkih galerija i muzejima, opustite se u kaﬁ Êu ili ugodite sebi u jednome od restorana. Prepustite se osobnom ritmu kako biste zaista uspjeli upoznati Dubrovnik. Tijekom jeseni i zime Dubrovnik ima izravne zrakoplovne veze s europskim gradovima: Rimom, Frankfurtom, Parizom i Londonom. Iskoristite poseban zimski vikend−program koji je kreiran kako bi pokazao najbolje od onoga πto Grad nudi. Kuπajte ﬁ na domaÊa vina u vinogradu, uæivajte u koncertu DubrovaËkog simfonijskog orkestra, upoznajte bogatu povijest uz pratnju vodiËa, sami uberite kamenicu i kuπajte je, predajte se æivoj noÊnoj zabavi, kušajte tradicionalnu dubrovaËku kuhinju... Zaboravite stres i napetost vaπega uobiËajenoga dnevnog ritma i prepustite se ljepoti i æivotnim uæitcima - moru, suncu i svjeæem zraku u nezaboravnom Dubrovniku. Dubrovnik zaista jest grad za sva godiπnja doba! ■

ubrovnik is a city for all seasons. Each season has its distinctive charm, from the warm summer days when tourists ﬂ ock to the city to the mild and calm winter months when a peace falls over Dubrovnik. On any given day, no matter what the weather is like, there are numerous opportunities to explore and enjoy Dubrovnik through the winter. Be inspired by the breathtaking architecture of the historic city, lose yourself in the quaint side streets, spend some time in one of the many art galleries and museums, relax in a café or indulge yourself in a restaurant. Take life at your own pace with the time and space to really get to know Dubrovnik. During the autumn and winter periods Dubrovnik has direct air connections with the European cities Rome, Frankfurt, Paris and London. Take advantage of a winter special weekend program organised to showcase the best the city has to offer. Taste ﬁ ne local wines in a vineyard, enjoy a concert by the Dubrovnik symphony orchestra, learn the rich history with a guided tour, try your hand at harvesting oysters, let your hair down with the lively nightlife and experience traditional Dubrovnik cuisine. Forget the stresses and strains of your modern day routine and enjoy the simple things in life: the sea, sun and fresh air in unforgettable Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik: truly a city for all seasons. ■ 66

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OTOCI ISLANDS ■

Udaljen od πibenske luke nepunih pola sata plovidbe brodom Tijat, otok Zlarin uporno Ëuva svoj mir, svoja mirisna polja, bez megalomanskih hotela i bez mnogo intervencija u arhitekturi. To je otok vikendaπa i svih Zlarinjana raseljenih trbuhom za kruhom, novinara, televizijskih djelatnika, glumaca, arhitekata, lijeËnika, fotografa, kustosa, lutkara, pjesnika, diplomata i poslovnih ljudi − svih koji mu se tijekom ljeta vraÊaju, pretvarajuÊi ga u kulturno æivahno srediπte, kojemu bi pozavidjele mnoge turistiËke meke. The island of Zlarin is situated less than half-an-hour’s sail on Tijat from the port of ©ibenik. Zlarin has managed to preserve its peacefulness, its scented ﬁelds, without huge hotels and with few interventions in the local architecture. It is an island of holiday homes of the people of Zlarin who have left the island to ﬁnd work − journalists, television workers, actors, architects, doctors, photographers, custodians, puppeteers, poets, diplomats and businesspersons − and who return in the summer and transform the island into a culturally vibrant place that many tourist meccas would envy.

ijeloga proteklog proljeÊa i rane jeseni Zlarin je æivio u ritmu Loze. Autori te popularne televizijske dramske serije æeljeli su priËu o sukobu dviju obitelji na djeviËanski Ëistom otoËiÊu Kamparu snimati na nekom otoku srednje Dalmacije, a Zlarin se pokazao idealnim da glumi imaginar-

ni Kampar koji joπ nije uguπio masovni turizam. Pogledaj tu ljepotu, kaæe razdragano vinogradar Vinko Radovani (Æarko RadiÊ) pokazujuÊi sinu Frani (Vicko BilandæiÊ) jednu od najljepπih, netaknutih zlarinskih vala, koju namjerava pretvoriti u plodni vinograd. Ali na tome istome arkadijski lijepom kamenjaru protkanom

Piše/By Davorka Vukov ColiÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Gojko Vukov ColiÊ

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THE BIG ONE

NEW IN 2012

THE SMART ONE

Optimised by Jason Ker

“Salona produce a performance cruiser range with some beautifully built yachts. The 38 was very nice to steer, very well balanced and comfortable.“ DEAN BARKER

s 38

s 41

s 44

s 60

Salona is global brand with local touch and all our sailing boats can be personalised, for further information please contact our distributers in UK, Italy, Holland, Belgium, Luxemburg, Germany, Norway,Finland, Denmark, France, Spain, Sweden, Slovenia, Greece, Turkey, Latvia, Estonia Lihuania, Ukraina, Australia, New Zealand,South Korea, Japan, Hong Kong, China, Columbia nad South America Due to recent growth in demand for our sailing yachts Salona is looking for more regional distributors across the globe. There are opportunities in the countries with already established distributers and in new countries.

International enquiries www.salonayachts.com info@adboats.hr plodnom zemljom i opojnim raslinjem, graevinar Zvonimir Gamulin (Milan ©trljiÊ) æeli sagraditi apartmane za masovni turizam ... Udaljen od πibenske luke nepunih pola sata plovidbe dobrim, starim brodom Tijat, otok je tako postao popriπte uzbudljive TV priËe u kojoj se prelama dvojba: ekoloπki raj ili turistiËke betonjare? Tridesetak posto serije dogaa se u Zagrebu, a sve ostalo na otoku, u autentiËnim interijerima starih konoba, æivopisnim uliËicama, malim trgovima, na rivi, boÊaliπtu, u æupnoj crkvi i mediteranskim krajolicima s ruba Kornata, svemu onome zbog Ëega je Zlarin biser πibenskog arhipelaga, zajedno s njegovih dvjestotinjak stanovnika, od kojih su mnogi statirali i glumili Ëak manje uloge, pa nije Ëudno πto su seriju doæivjeli kao svoje dite. A na toj vagi izmeu ekoloπki Ëistog otoka i otoka okovanog betonom, Zlarinjani su desetljeÊima uspijevali saËuvati svoj mir, svoja mirisna polja, bez megalomanskih hotela i bez mnogo intervencija u arhitekturi. Dvjestotinjak vikendica najveÊim su dijelom preureene stoljetne kamene ljepotice, a kad na jednoj od njih na vrh krova i sleti mali bazen, poput golemoga staklenog πeπira s pogledom na cijelu uvalu, prvi i jedini u mjestu naËinjen je ipak tako diskretno da ga zapazite tek kad ste pred vratima zgrade. Automobilima je na otoku 74

zabranjen pristup, pa uskim uliËicama prometuju tek bicikli, motorini i neËujni papamobili, neka vrsta vozila za golf made in China, za one koji æive u brdu. Dva restorana, konoba, zalogajnica, tri kaﬁÊa, prenoÊiπte Koralj, koje treba obnoviti da ponovno stekne status hotela, ali zato se u njemu dobro jede, jedna trgovina i πtand za prodaju povrÊa i voÊa, novinarnica i trgovina za prodaju koraljnog nakita, te kuÊe s privatnim apartmanima za iznajmljivanje, koje moæete nabrojiti na prste jedne ruke - to je sve πto Êe na otoku naÊi sluËajni turist. Nema ni ribarnice, riba ionako izravno skaËe s ribarskog Ëamca u vreÊicu kupca. Malo, pa niπta, rekli bi turistiËki struËnjaci, ali baπ takav samosvojan otok kao da ljubomorno za sebe Ëuvaju vikendaπi i svi Zlarinjani raseljeni trbuhom za kruhom, danas mahom intelektualci, novinari, TV djelatnici, glumci, arhitekti, lijeËnici, fotograﬁ, kustosi, lutkari, pjesnici, diplomati, poslovni ljudi − svi koji mu se ljeti vraÊaju, pretvarajuÊi ga tih dvaju mjeseca u kulturno æivahno srediπte, kojemu bi pozavidjele mnoge turistiËke meke. A sve zbog entuzijazma privremenih, povremenih i stalnih otoËana. U Zlarinu tih dana nema turistiËke guæve s pizzama i animatorima kulture, ali pun je ljudi koji su veÊinom i promatraËi i sudionici dogaanja. Istodobno, najveÊa otoËna riva na

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d.o.o. CAVTAT

Jadranu, dugaËka 131 metar, uveËer æivi neki svoj æivot kad uz nju pristanu luksuzne jahte svih dimenzija i registracija, u noÊnom predahu nakon otkrivanja nestvarno lijepih Kornata. Tradicionalna Srdelada traje joπ od 1973. godine, Zlarinski jaht-klub redovito organizira tri regate na godinu, od kojih je najatraktivnija ona starih drvenih brodica Latinskin idrun na kureja (Latinskim jedrima na koralje). Potkraj srpnja odræava se VeËer budulskih balada, a na Veliku Gospu mjestom hodi sveËana procesija. Lutkarica Petra Radin u produkciji kazaliπta Tvornice lutaka veÊ nekoliko ljeta priprema sa zlarinskim maliπanima multimedijske predstave za koje scenarij, uz potporu glumaca poput fetivog Zlarinjanina Leona LuËeva, Filipa ©ovagoviÊa i redatelja Marija KovaËa, piπu sama djeca. Fotograf Gojko Vukov ColiÊ i njegov kolega s HTV-a Luka Marotti organiziraju fotoradionicu za sve zainteresirane u mjestu. Neumorni novinar i knjiæevnik, pjesnik Mladen BjaæiÊ, podsjeÊa vjerne sluπatelje na ljepote Ëakavπtine, u Zlarinu je joπ æivo ljetno kino, u otoËnome muzeju Kaæerna, odnedavna podruËnome Muzeju grada ©ibenika, ljeti se izmjenjuju mnoge izloæbe. Organizira se Brudetijada i uprizoruje IspraÊaj koraljara autora, TV urednika Zvonka Varoπanca, s gajetama koje su nekad odlazile

u lov na crveno blago. To je podsjeÊanje na zlatna vremena (Zlarinjani se kao koraljari spominju veÊ 1412. godine, a u 19. stoljeÊu lovili su ih od Kvarnera do Boke kotorske), kad je otok imao πesnaest laa za lov i kad je cijelo mjesto sveËanim ritualom ispraÊalo lovce na dug, neizvjesan i opasan put. A Zlarin se nije samo Lozom dokazao ﬁlmogeniËnim. Tu je joπ daleke 1937. njemaËki redatelj Victor Janson s Itom Rinom, Angelinom Jolie svoga doba, snimio romantiËni ljubiÊ Princeza koralja, a autori glazbe bili su poznati Josip Slavenski i Ivo TijardoviÊ. Na projekciji restauriranog ﬁlma, upriliËenoga na jednoj od manjih otoËkih riva, mjeπtani su, dirljivo uzbueni, u svakom kadru traæili Zlarin svojih oËeva i djedova. I danas se joπ vrte crno-bijeli dokumentarci TV redatelja Ante Viculina o mitskom otoku poezije i legendi, estetici samoukog slikara Ante Gregova s njegovim vidinama (morskim vjeπticama) i mistiËnim Ëempresima koji rastu noÊu, a osobito o pjesniπtvu Vesne Parun, roenoj na Zlarinu, kao najveÊoj od hrvatskih pjesnikinja porijeklom s tog otoka. Zlarin, mali otok brnistre i smilja/ Joπ uvijek stoji kraj puËine sive... pjevala je Vesna Parun, a ©ibenËanin Juraj ©iægoriÊ joπ ga je u 15. stoljeÊu nazvao zlatnim otokom, moæda baπ zbog bogato æute brnistre koja u proljeÊe CROATIA AIRLINES

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zazlati svaki kutak. U doba ©iægoriÊa sagraena je zavjetna crkvica Gospa od Raπelje (danas puna zavjetnih slika, a nekad raskoπnih maketa brodova koji su visjeli sa stropa), a godine 1458. Bratovπtina Gospe od Raπelje donosi svoj pravilnik, prvu Ëakavsku matrikulu na latinici, kojom je nakon glagoljice najavila novo doba. Jedan ljetopis biljeæi da je 1567. otok imao 56 kuÊa i 496 stanovnika, dvostruko viπe no danas zimi. U poËetku 19. stoljeÊa Zlarin postaje opÊina, ima svoj telegraf, a 1810. proradila je osnovna πkola. Golema πkolska zgrada, danas kuÊa duhova obrasla brπljanom, svjedoËi o vremenima kad je otokom trËalo stotine maliπana. Godine 1831. sagraen je toranj s javnim satom (popularni 76

Leroj), 1929. mjesto je veÊ imalo malu termoelektranu i javnu rasvjetu, ali vodovod je dobio tek 1976. godine. Samo stare Zlarinjanke znaju s koliko se muke nosila voda u vjedrima, na glavi, s mjesne cisterne udaljene dvadesetak minuta hoda uzbrdo, po kamenjaru, i kako je bila dragocjena svaka kaplja. Kaæem Zlarinjanke, jer vodu su nosile samo æene, muπkaraca ionako nije bilo. Oni su vjekovima plovili i lovili, a i oni koji su se bavili vinogradarstvom i uzgojem maslina, potkraj 19. i u poËetku 20. stoljeÊa nadniËarili su u stranim zemljama, osobito poπto im je peronospora desetkovala vinograde. Bilo ih je na gradnji Sueskog kanala, podizali su njujorπki Empire State Building, provodili godine na ribarskim brodovima u kalifornijskom San Pedru. Iza sebe ostavljali su mlade æene u prvim mjesecima trudnoÊe i vraÊali se tek nakon brojnih desetljeÊa, da provedu koju godinu s kÊerima i snahama, jer sinovi bi nastavljali njihovim stopama. O otoku æena i staraca govori i zapis s poËetka proπlog stoljeÊa, u kojemu piπe da je na njemu 300 udavaËa i svega 10 mladoæenja. Na otoku æena, æene su radile sve muπke poslove, od veslanja, do okopavanja vinograda, i iπle na æurnatu (najamni rad) da zarade za braπno i πeÊer dok im iz Amerike ne stigne koji dolar. O njihovoj samostalnosti govori i naoko nevaæan detalj na jednostavnoj narodnoj noπnji - mali srebrni noæ, zakvaËen o struk, znak da se same probijaju kroz æivot. Na ©arinoj rivi, drugom po duæini gatu u luci, danas dva golema brodska sidra, posveÊena sinovima mora, govore o svim tim pomorcima, ribarima, koraljarima i iseljenicima koji su æivot proveli daleko od kuÊnog praga, no vjerno mu se vraÊali, nerijetko i na posljednji poËinak. To je ona prava slika carstva koralja, a najljepπe koralje na Jadranu Zlarinjani su odavna lovili za druge brodovlasnike i druge majstore, jer tek je tridesetih godina na otoku otvorena prva brusionica, a i danas postoji samo jedna. U dvoriπtu muzeja Kaæerna tek visi golemi kriæ s objeπenim mreæama (inæinj), alat kojim se nekad lovilo crveno zlato. Povijest jadranskog koraljarstva zapravo je povijest zlarinskog koraljarstva, a samo rijetki ronioci danas mogu uæivati u ljepoti koraljnih grana na dnu mora, skrivenih u bjeliËastoj mreni poput mladenkina vela. Koralji se danas love oko Mljeta, Lastova i Visa, u Zlarinu se obrauju, a na carstvo koralja podsjeÊa suvenir − granËica crvenog zlata na kamenu ∑ autora Kristina Ljube i Mire Beπkera, koji je 2010. godine Hrvatska turistiËka zajednica proglasila najboljim suvenirom u Hrvatskoj. A otok je u poËetku proπloga stoljeÊa biljeæio i svoje turistiËke procvate. Javno kupaliπte dobio je 1914., a u vrijeme kad su obliænje Vodice joπ bile carstvo muha, zvali su ga malom

Opatijom. Imao je ureenu plaæu s kabinama, nekoliko elegantnih vila, zasaene palme na obali, tri hotela i nekoliko gostionica, Druπtvo za poljepπavanje i promet strancima i prve turistiËke broπure, pozivajuÊi goste na boravak u pansionu ©umica, koji se sastojao od vila Makale i Acalin, te restorana u boriÊima. Poslije Drugoga svjetskog rata turizam se preselio na kopno, a Zlarinjani, u svojevrsnoj svojevoljnoj izolaciji i letargiji, ionako su pristojno æivjeli od ameriËkih mirovina. Zaboravljeni otok otkrivali su rijetki vikendaπi, uglavnom ZagrepËani. U posljednjih trideset godina napustilo ga je 500 ljudi, odlazeÊi uglavnom u Split, ©ibenik i Zagreb, a danas mu se neki vraÊaju, ovaj put intelektualci, veÊinom u mirovini, struËnjak za naftu koji se ovdje pretvorio u uspjeπnog ugostitelja, bankar koji se okrenuo maslinarstvu. Na otoku se devedesetih pojavio i Ante Maglica, roeni Zlarinjanin, Ëovjek koji se u Americi obogatio proizvodnjom dæepne svjetiljke Maglite. Kupio je i obnovio vilu Makale, tek kojih stotinjak metara od rodne kuÊe Vesne Parun, i posadio mladu travu u kalifornijskom stilu. Punih 56 godina Tijat je bio najËvrπÊa veza otoka s kopnom, a rt sa skrivenom vilom meu kroπnjama ono prvo πto bi putnik ugledao ulazeÊi u zlarinsku valu tim brodom. I dok odgovorni vape za novim plovilom, mjeπtani ne mogu zamisliti æivot bez Jadrolinijinog Tijata koji na sebi ima slojeva boje kao drvo godova, ali dobro pamti nekoliko naraπtaja posade i mjeπtana. Posljednjih godina u Zlarin dvaput na tjedan pristaje i trajekt, ali Tijat s tim svojim pamÊenjem i patinom dio je one osobite otoËke romantike koju Zlarinjani vole s toliko upornosti i strasti. n

ll last spring and early autumn, Zlarin lived to the rhythm of Loza, a popular TV drama series about a conﬂict between two families on the island of Kampar which is untouched by mass tourism. The makers of this series wanted to ﬁlm it on a central Dalmatian island, and Zarin proved ideal as the imaginary Kampar. Look at all this beauty, says wine-grower Vinko Radovani (Æarko RadiÊ) as he shows his son, Fran (Vicko BilandæiÊ), a beautiful, untouched cove on Zlarin. He intends to turn this rocky area of Arcadian beauty, with fertile soil and fragrant plants between the rocks, into a vineyard. But a developer, Zvonimir Gamulin (Milan ©trljiÊ), wants to build apartments for mass tourism there. Thus the island, situated less than half-anhour’s sail on the good, old boat Tijat from the port of ©ibenik, became the setting for an exciting TV series that revolves around the question: ecological paradise or concrete

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t a, a r a do k a j i likac stova, u. p a Od i do po u tijek fotk i uvijek swipe uke. bud o jedan ohvat r S a m je na d n. o f i sve . e f l rsel etni te u o m wy Sho ia N9 pa Nok i a . h r nok

3RWUDﾅ有WH QDV QD / NokiaCroatia / NokiaASE / NokiaCroatia / NokiaASE

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structures for tourists? Thirty percent of the series takes place in Zagreb and the rest on the island, in the authentic interiors of old taverns, on picturesque streets and small squares, on the seafront, on the bowling alley, in the parish church and amid the Mediterranean scenery at the edge of the Kornati islands. Zlarin is a jewel in the ©ibenik archipelago, and its roughly two hundred inhabitants, many of whom were extras or had small roles in the series, regard the series as their own baby. The people of Zlarin have managed to preserve the island’s peacefulness, its scented fields, without huge hotels and with few interventions in the local architecture. The two hundred-odd holiday homes are mostly renovated century-old stone houses. One of them has a small swimming pool on the roof, like a glass hat with a view over the bay. It has been constructed so discreetly that you only notice it when you are in front of the house. Cars are not allowed on the island, so the only means of transport in the narrow streets are bicycles and some kind of golf cart made in China for those who live in the hills. All that the accidental tourist can find on the island. There are also two restaurants, a tavern, a snackbar, three cafés, the Koralj guest house (which needs renovation to acquire the status of a hotel but where the food is good), one shop, a greengrocer stall, a newsstand, a shop that sells coral jewellery, and houses with holiday apartments for rent (you can count them on one hand). There is no fish shop − the fish go straight from the boat into the customer’s shopping bag. Not much, the tourism professional might say, but when the people of Zlarin who have left the island to find work − journalists, television workers, actors, architects, doctors, photographers, custodians, puppeteers, poets, diplomats and businesspersons − return to their homes in the summer, they transform the island for two months into a culturally vibrant place that many tourist meccas would envy. And all thanks to the enthusiasm of the temporary and permanent residents. During this period, there are no tourist throngs with pizzas and entertainment organizers but plenty of people who are at the same time spectators and participants in the events. Also, Zlarin has the longest island jetty on the Adriatic, 131 metres long, which has a life of its own in the evening, when luxury yachts of all sizes and registrations dock there for a night’s respite after discovering the unreal beauty of the Kornati. The events include the Sredlada fish festival, which has been taking place since 1973; three 78

regattas organized by the Zlarin Yacht Club, the most attractive being With Latin Sails to Corals, a regatta of old wooden boats; an evening of Budul Ballads at the end of July; and a ceremonial procession at the Feast of the Assumption. For several summers now, puppeteer Petra Radin of the Puppet Factory Theatre has provided Zlarin children with a multimedia performance, whose script is written by the children with the assistance of actors like Zarin-born Leon LuËev, Filip ©ovagoviÊ and the director Marijo KovaË. The photographer Gojko Vukov ColiÊ and his colleague at HTV, Luka Marotti, organize a photo-workshop; the tireless journalist and author, Mladen BjaæiÊ, reminds his audience of the beauty of the Chakavian dialect; films are shown in Zlarin’s open-air cinema; the Kaæerna museum, which has recently become a branch of the Town Museum of ©ibenik, puts on a series of exhibitions during the summer; and a Brodetto festival is organized. Seeing Off the Coral Hunters by TV producer Zvonko Varoπanac is staged, using the type of boats which were once used in the hunt for the red treasure that is coral; this harks back to the golden age (Zlarin’s coral divers are mentioned in 1412, and in the nineteenth century they hunted from Kvarner to Boka Kotorska), when the island had sixteen boats for the hunt and when the inhabitants gave a ritual send-off to the hunters on their long, uncertain and dangerous voyage. It is not just Loza that has found Zlarin to be filmogenic. In 1937, the German director Victor Janson filmed the romantic Princess of the Corals there, with Ita Rina, the Angelina Jolie of the time, and with music composed by Josip Slavenski and Ivo TijardoviÊ. At the showing of the restored film at one of the island’s smaller seafronts, the locals were excitedly searching for the Zlarin of their parents and grandparents in every scene. And black-and-white documentaries by TV producer Ante Viculin are still being shown about a mythical island of poetry and legends, the artist Ante Gregov and his sea-witches and mystical cypress trees that grow at night, and the poetry of Zlarin-born Vesna Parun, one of the greatest Croatian poets. Zlarin, a small island of broom and immortelle /Still stands by the grey open sea... wrote Vesna Parun. In the fifteenth century, Juraj ©iægoriÊ of ©ibenik called Zlarin the golden island, perhaps because of the yellow broom that covers the island in spring. At the time of ©iægoriÊ, the votive church of Our Lady of Raπelje was built; today it is fi lled with votive paintings and once with models of boats that hung from the ceiling. In 1458, the

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Blagdanska

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ÂŠ 2011 Hewlett-Packard Development Company, L.P. Intel, Intel Logo, Intel Inside, Intel Core i Core Inside trĹžiĹĄni su znaci tvrtke Intel Corporation u SAD-u i drugim drĹžavama. Za viĹĄe informacija rangiranju Intel CROATIAoAIRLINES 79 procesora posjetite www.intel.com/go/rating. Ponuda vrijedi do isteka zaliha. *PreporuÄ?ena cijena za krajnjeg korisnika (PDV ukljuÄ?en u cijenu). **Sukladno IDC Reportu 2010.

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Brotherhood of Our Lady of Raπelje devised a rulebook, the first Chakavian matricula in Latin script, which augured a new era after the Glagolitic one. A chronicle notes that in 1567 the island had 56 houses and 496 inhabitants, twice as many as in winter today. At the beginning of the nineteenth century, Zlarin became a municipality, with its own telegraph. It got its primary school in 1810; the huge school building, today a ghost house overgrown with ivy, is what is left of a time when hundreds of children ran about the island. The clock tower, popularly known as Leroj, was erected in 1831. Zlarin had a small thermo-electric plant and public lighting in 1929, but it has to wait for a water supply until 1976. The old women of Zlarin know how hard it was to carry buckets of water on their heads from the local cistern, which was a twenty-minute walk away uphill, on a rocky path, and how precious each drop of water was. I say the women of Zlarin because it was only women who carried water. The men were not around. For centuries, they had sailed and hunted, and those who were involved in growing grapes and olives left for foreign lands at the end of the nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth, especially when peronospora decimated the vineyards. They were at the construction of the Suez Canal, they helped raise the Empire State Building, they spent years on the fishing boats at San Pedro in California. They left behind young women in the first months of pregnancy and returned only decades later, to spend a few years with their daughters and daughters-inlaw, because their sons were following in their footsteps. A record at the beginning of the last century states that there were 300 unmarried women and only 10 unmarried men on the island. So Zlarin was an island of women, with the women doing all the men’s work, from rowing boats to digging in the vineyards, or becoming hired hands to earn money for flour and sugar until a few dollars arrived from America. Their independence is symbolised on a seemingly unimportant detail on their simple national costume − a small silver knife, tied at the waist, showing that they hack their own way through life. At ©arina jetty, the second longest in the harbour, there are two large ship’s anchors, dedicated to the sons of the sea, all those sailors, fishermen, coral hunters and emigrants who spent their lives far from home but who faithfully returned, if only to die there. That’s the real picture of the coral empire. The Zlarin coral hunters long hunted for other shipowners and other coral craftsmen, for the first coral workshop was opened on the island only 80

thirty years ago, and there is only one today. In the yard of the Kaæerna Museum, there is a large crucifix with hanging nets, the tool with which they once captured the red gold. The history of Adriatic coral hunting is in fact the history of the Zlarin coral hunters. Today, only the rare diver can enjoy the beauty of the coral branches at the bottom of the sea, hidden under a whitish film like a bridal veil. Coral is today hunted around Mljet, Lastovo and Vis and polished at Zlarin. Souvenirs of the coral empire − branches of red gold on rock, the work of Kristin Ljuba and Miro Beπker, were named the best souvenirs in Croatia by the Croatian Tourist Board in 2010. The island became a tourist destination at the beginning of the last century. A public bath was built in 1914, and, at the time when nearby Vodice was ruled by flies, Zlarin was called Little Opatija. It had a public bathing area with cabins, a few elegant villas, palm trees along the seafront, three hotels and several taverns, a Society for Beautification and Tourism, a tourist brochure that invited guests to stay at the ©umica guesthouse, which consisted of the Makala and Acalin villas, and a restaurant in a pine wood. After the Second World War, tourism moved to the mainland, but the people of Zlarin, in a kind of self-imposed isolation and lethargy, lived comfortably off American pensions. Only a few outsiders, mostly from Zagreb, set up holiday homes on this forgotten island. In the last thirty years, 500 people have left Zlarin, mainly for Split, ©ibenik and Zagreb. But some are now returning, mainly in retirement, like an oil engineer who is now a successful tavern-keeper, and a banker who has turned to olive growing. In the 1990s, Zlarin-born Ante Maglica returned to the island. He had made his fortune in the States with the manufacture of the Maglite flashlight. He bought and renovated the Villa Makale, just a few hundred metres from the birthplace of Vesna Parun and sowed grass in the Californian style. The Jadronlinija ship Tijat has been the island’s main link with the mainland for 56 years and the first thing that the traveller on Tijat used to see on entering Zlarin bay was a wooded cape with a villa hidden among the trees. While the administration has been arguing for a replacement of Tijat, the locals cannot imagine life without it. It wears coats of paint like a tree its growth rings. It has carried generations of crews and locals. A ferry has been docking at Zlarin twice a week for the last few years, but the Tijat, with its special associations and patina, is part of the particular island charm that the people of Zlarin love with so much devotion and passion. n

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Arhitektonske ikone novog tisuÊljeÊa Architectural icons of a new millenium Tekst i fotograﬁje/Text and photos Vanja Šolin

UnatoË slavnoj i bogatoj povijesti Rim ne spava na lovorikama proπlih vremena, upravo protivno, u gradu su u posljednjih desetak godina sagraeni ili se dovrπavaju novi, kapitalni arhitektonski projekti. Novi Rim, nove ikone… Despite its illustrious history, Rome does not rest on the laurels of the past. Indeed, capital architectural projects have been completed in the last ten years. New Rome, new icons, new architectural projects… 82

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NAŠA ODREDIŠTA OUR DESTINATIONS ■

Maxxi Museum Zaha Hadid

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d antike Rim je posjedovao metropolitski duh stalnih mijena i kontinuiranog izvoenja novih i sve impresivnijih arhitektonskih zahvata. Kroz vjekove na podruËju su Rima nicali hramovi, palaËe, amﬁteatri, katakombe, akvedukti, prometnice. Grad se urbanistiËki razvijao kao polivalentni organizam spreman u prihvaÊanju novih ideja i smjerova u arhitekturi. U Rimu pitanje arhitekture oduvijek je bilo i pitanje politiËkog stava. Krajnji cilj svakog doba joπ od antike, preko neoklasicizma, pa sve do suvremenih projekata meunarodno poznatih arhitektonskih studija, bio je da se zadivi publika i stvori strahopoπtovanje. Sve te velebne graevine

bile su iskazivanje moÊi i znaËenja Rima u πirem kontekstu. Na natjeËaju za muzej Maxxi, koji je 1998. godine raspisalo Posebno vijeÊe Nacionalne galerije moderne umjetnosti na zahtjev Ministarstva kulture, odabran je projekt Zahe Hadid i njezinih suradnika kao najbolji. Njihovo se rjeπenje u svojoj formi, inovativnom i kreativnom arhitekturom, kao i funkcionalnoπÊu, najbolje uklopilo u postojeÊe gradsko tkivo. Muzej Maxxi sveËano je bio otvoren 30. svibnja 2010. godine, kad je sluæbeno otvorio vrata javnosti. Taj je objekt veoma znaËajan za Rim te se moæe pretpostaviti da Êe ubuduÊe biti jedno od nezaobilaznih odrediπta posjetitelji-

ma gladnima suvremenih umjetniËkih izloæbi i dogaanja. Zgrada je niknula na lokalitetu bivπih vojnih baraka u predgrau Flaminio. Nagraeno djelo zadivljuje kompleksnoπÊu formi, zakrivljenim linijama, organskim strukturama, te varirajuÊim i preklapajuÊim platformama kojima je arhitektica uspjela stvoriti vizualno atraktivnu prostornu instalaciju. HodajuÊi po stubiπtima osvijetljenima LED rasvjetom, dolazite do razliËitih platformi u prostoru gdje svatko bira svoj put i smjer kretanja. U poveÊemu, veoma visokom foajeu, nalazi se recepcija koja vas vodi u auditorijum, niz galerija πto udomljuju stalne kolekcije radova

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muzeja, te dalje prema prostorima u kojima Êe se izlagati radovi suvremenih umjetnika. Djelovanje muzeja usmjereno je na problematiku suvremene arhitekture i umjetnosti. Maxxi za arhitekturu sastoji se od dva baziËna dijela, jedan kojemu je primarni fokus na teoretskoj i znanstvenoj obradi arhitekture 20. stoljeÊa, a drugi se koncentrira na izlaganje, prezentaciju i raspravu o suvremenoj arhitekturi. Povijesna i suvremena komponenta mijeπaju proπlost sa sadaπnjoπÊu, prilagoavajuÊi sadræaj i metode edukacije, gdje publika dobiva informacije od ljudi iz struke, analizirajuÊi nove trendove u arhitekturi, kulturoloπke modele, kao i odnos Ëovjeka unutar i spram arhitekture.

Maxxi art prvi je talijanski muzej potpuno posveÊen suvremenoj umjetnosti. Osmiπljen je za postavu πirokog spektra izloæbi i multimedijalnih projekata, odræavanje konferencija, projekcije videoumjetnosti, te za glazbene i plesne performanse. Najbitnija je funkcija muzeja ona duhovna, u svojoj koncepciji prostor je osmiπljen da bude æivo tkivo umjetniËkog eksperimentiranja, te se njegova uloga shvaÊa kao ad hoc mjesto stvaranja i komunikacije umjetnosti, πto muzeju daje interaktivno obiljeæje kojim se njegova polivalentna funkcionalnost prilagoava svakoj novonastaloj situaciji. Auditorium Parco Della Musica (Renzo Piano) tri su multifunkcionalna objekta koja su

osmiπljena za odræavanje glazbenih koncerata i ostalih kulturno-umjetniËkih dogaanja: Dvorana Petrassi, imenovana tako u Ëast Goffeda Petrassija, ima 700 sjedala, zatim Dvorana Sinopoli, kapaciteta 1200 sjedeÊih mjesta, dobila je ime po poznatome talijanskom skladatelju Giuseppeu Sinopoliju, te najveÊa dvorana Santa Cecilia za 2800 posjetitelja. Objekti su strukturalno odijeljeni da osiguraju zaπtitu od zvuka iz vanjskog prostora, no meusobno su povezani i isprepleteni podzemnim hodnicima. »etvrta koncertna arena, Cavea, kazaliπte je otvorena tipa, koje podsjeÊa na doba grËkih i rimskih amﬁteatara. Oko srediπnjeg prostora nalazi se polukruæno formirano gledaliπte. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Od poËetka djelovanja, od 21. studenoga 2002., Auditorium je postao srediπnje mjesto kulturnih zbivanja u Rimu i cijeloj zemlji, veliki odjek uspjeπnosti stvoren je kvalitetnim programom, izvrsnom organizacijom i mnoπtvom posjetitelja. Svake godine taj objekt, koji vodi fundacija Musica Per Roma, posjeti viπe od milijun posjetitelja. NajveÊa je dvorana takoer i dom rimskoga klasiËnog orkestra Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia. Osim klasiËne i komorne glazbe, te multifunkcionalne dvorane ugoπÊuju i razliËite jazz, pop, rock, etno te ostale glazbene sastave, u dvoranama se takoer organiziraju i kazaliπne predstave, filmske projekcije, umjetniËke 86

izloæbe, modne revije, konferencije te knjiæevni skupovi. Raznovrsni festivali i druge kulturne manifestacije u Auditoriumu brzo su u Rimljana postali neizbjeæni dogaaji u njihovu kulturnom kalendaru. Sve te aktivnosti promiËu kvalitetu i napredak æivota u metropoli te se moæe ustvrditi da je Parco della Musica generator kulture i predvodnik novog koncepta Rima, institucija koja gradi moÊan identitet grada za nova vremena. Deﬁnicija Renza Pianove, Auditoriuma kao Tvornice kulture, nikad nije bila æivlja i aktualnija nego danas. Iako se u Rimu stvara suvremena generacija impozantnih graevina, ambiciozni

graevinski zahvati iz 1920-ih i 1940-ih joπ su prepoznatljivi u gradskom krajoliku. U kontekstu ovog izlaganja ne moæe se zaobiÊi poslovno-rezidencijalni kompleks EUR (Esposizione Universale di Roma). U Ëast 20. godiπnjice dolaska faπista na vlast, te u nakani da Rim proπiri na jugozapad do mora, Mussolini je dao sagraditi moderno satelitsko predgrae nazvano Cartière Europa ili E42, poslije preimenovano u EUR. Taj fascinantni spomenik ondaπnje ideologije i danas privlaËi svojom konceptualnoπÊu i stilom. Arhitektura je izvorno bila nadahnuta Rimskim Carstvom, njegovom umjetnoπÊu i arhitekturom. ProËiπÊene forme toga novog pravca

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nazvanoga Razionalismo prepoznatljive su u odnosu na uzore neπto hladnijim i jednostavnijim stilom s izraæenim totalitarnim obiljeæjem. Objekt Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana napravljen je s namjerom da bude srediπnji dio i simbol Svjetske izloæbe, koja se trebala odræati u Rimu 1942. godine. Popularno nazvani Colloseo Quadrato osmislili su i dizajnirali arhitekti Guerrini, Padula i Romano. NadahnuÊe za projekt bio je antiËki kolosej, te je objekt implicitno i osmiπljen u slavu toga slavnog spomenika rimske kulture. Zgrada je dovrπena tek 1943. godine. Koncept zgrade bio je vrlo sliËan svom izvorniku

sa πest poredanih loa po visini, na boËnim stranama isprepletenih s devet arkadnih polja po πirini. Govori se da su ti brojevi aluzija na ime i prezime diktatora: Benito (πest) Mussolini (devet) polja. Arhitekt Adalberto Libera u projektiranju zgrade Palazzo dei Ricevimenti e dei Congressi, jedne od srediπnjih i najznaËajnih graevina EUR-a, nastojao je objekt obdariti plemenitom i elegantnom vizurom, kombiniranjem suvremenih oblika s klasiËnim stilom. Zbog oπtrih arhitektonskih linija vanjskog plaπta, Ëistih oblika i predanosti detaljima, dvorana Pallazo dei Congressi klasiËni je primjer arhitekture racionalizma, oboæavane i cijenjene u

cijelom svijetu. Ta se graevina s pravom moæe smatrati pravim spomenikom arhitekture svog vremena i zasluæuje mjesto u povijesti. Inicijalno, projekt je trebao biti dovrπen za svjetsku izloæbu 1942., no poËetak rata odgodio je njegovu planiranu gradnju do 1954. godine. Prostoriju u srediπtu Aula Magna obnovio je i uredio arhitekt Paolo Portoghesi, a ostali interijeri obogaÊeni su djelima poznatih umjetnika, freske koje ocrtavaju razdoblja rimske povijesti djelo su Achillea Funija i krase zidove paviljona J.F. Kennedyja (djelo iz 1953.). UmjetniËki paviljon rad je Gina Severinija, znakovitog futurista, napravljen u povodu meunarodne izloæbe agrikulture. Valja spomenuti i dva predivna CROATIA AIRLINES

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Santo Volto di Gesù Pietro Sartogo / Nathalie Grenon

mozaika u kavani kongresnog centra, koja su djelo umjetnika A. Canavarija iz 1940. godine. Joπ jedna znaËajna zgrada onog vremena jest i Museo della Civilta Romana, koju su projektirali arhitekti: Ascheri, Bernardini, Pascoletti 1941. godine. Arhitektonski stil speciﬁËan je za EUR, graevina je eklatantni primjer monumentalnih zgrada iz doba Rimskog Carstva. Muzej je podijeljen u 59 odjeljaka koji opisuju povijest rimske civilizacije. Nadalje, tu je i Marconijev obelisk napravljen 1959. u povodu Olimpijskih igara u Rimu. Podignut je u Ëast izumitelju radiotehnologije Guglielmu Marconiju, a na mramornim ploËama obeliska uklesana je priËa s alegorijama iz njegova æivota. 88

EUR je istinski primjer kakva bi najvjerojatnije bila talijanska arhitektura druge polovice 20. stoljeÊa da faπistiËki reæim kojim sluËajem nije izgubio rat - πiroke ulice i ogoljene zgrade od bijelog mramora i sedra reﬂektirale bi stilove antiËkog Rima i racionalizma. Richard Meier, ameriËki arhitekt, ostavio je duboki peËat u Rimu sa svoja dva stilski vrlo karakteristiËna projekta, Padre Dio Misericordioso (Bog, naπ milostivi otac, 2003.) i Museo dell’Ara Pacis Augustae (2006.). La Chiesa del Dio Padre Misericordioso jedan je od 50 novosagraenih sakralnih objekata iz programa Vatikanski milenijski projekt. Struktura graena u bijelom betonu

i staklu od 9000 Ëetvornih metara povrπine smjeπtena je u siromaπnom predgrau zvanom Tor Tre Teste, udaljenom desetak kilometara istoËno od Rima. Crk va se nalazi na ravnome, trokutastom poloæaju uglavljenome izmeu nekoliko stambenih nebodera. Sakralni objekt stvara posve novi vizualni i duhovni sadræaj za zajednicu od 8000 stanovnika, koji su se onamo doselili 1970-ih u klasiËne socijalne deseterokatnice onog vremena, s betonskim dvoriπtima bez parkova, koja su funcionirala kao jedini prostori druæenja, igre i komunikacije lokalnog stanovniπtva.

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R. Meier osvojio je natjeËaj u vrlo jakoj konkurenciji koju su tvorili Tadao Ando, Santiago Calatrava, Peter Eisenman i Frank Gehry. U stvaranju nagraenog rada arhitekt je bio nadahnut crkvama ﬁnskog arhitekta Alvara Aaltoaje, Franka Lloyda, Wrightovom kapelom Wayfairer’s Chapel u Americi, kao i radovima Le Corbusiera. Osim speciﬁËno odreenih uvjeta u arhitektonskom zadatku, bitno obiljeæje i snaga koncepta u njegove je tri zakrivljene betonske ljuske, koje tvore unutarnju i vanjsku opnu objekta. Ta jedra proteæu se 36 metara u visinu, graena su od betonskih ploËa s mramorno bijelom zavrπnom obradom. Struktura je iznutra ojaËana Ëelikom,

a sva tri broda zajedno povezuju klinasto zatezni kablovi po horizontalnoj i vertikalnoj osi. SamostojeÊa jedra, koja simboliziraju Sveto Trojstvo, naËinjena su da odolijevaju vruÊini, vjetru i potresima. Glavni zid zdesna, okrenut sjeveru, nadsvouje i πtiti glavni prostor crkve. Sam arhitekt najbolje izraæava koncept i filozofiju projekta komentirajuÊi: ...u crkvi tri betonske oplate definiraju atmosferu otvaranja duπe, u kojoj svjetlo s nebesa stvara luminiscentno-prostorno iskustvo, gdje zrake sunca sluæe kao mistiËna metafora prisutnosti Boga. Museo dell’Ara Pacis od svog otvaranja izazvao je mnogo publiciteta i kontroverze.

U svibnju 2006. godine Reuters i La Repubblica objavili su vijest s novinske konferencije novoizabranoga gradonaËelnika Rima Giannija Alemanna, na kojoj je istaknuo da Êe Meierov upravo dovrπeni muzej Ara Pacis biti prisilno uniπten i preseljen na drugu lokaciju. Allemanno je poslije ublaæio retoriku i u popularnoj TV emisiji Porta a Porta rekao da Êe raspisati referendum o premjeπtanju muzeja, na kojemu Êe rimski graani sami odluËiti o njegovoj sudbini. Ara Pacis jedina je suvremena struktura unutar stare jezgre Rima joπ od doba Mussolinija, no unatoË tomu po svim statistikama i treÊa najposjeÊenija zgrada u Rimu. Po kazivanju gradonaËelnika CROATIA AIRLINES

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… to je pitanje nekompatibilnosti, zgrada je u baroknom dijelu grada, takav stil ne odgovara srediπtu Rima. Ruπenje nije prioritet, ali smatram da su neke intervencije na muzeju popriliËno invazivne. Mary Lou Bunn, glasnogovornica Meierova ureda, odgovorila je: …stvari su bile tiho. (misleÊi na inauguraciju muzeja), a zatim dodala da je gosp. Meier ... spreman na razgovor s gradnaËelnikom o svim nesuglasicama te je napomenula da su arhitekti u uredu … uvelike vezani i emotivni prema projektu. Mary Lou Bunn ustvrdila je kako su najËitanije nacionalne dnevne novine Corriere della Sera napravile nezavisno istraæivanje javnog 90

miπljenja te su dobile statistiËke podatke da 70 posto graana Rima nema niπta protiv toga da zgrada ostane. Muzej je stvoren za potrebe udomljavanja, Ëuvanja i prezentacije Are Pacis, ærtvenog oltara koji datira iz 1. stoljeÊa prije Krista, iz doba cara Augusta. U kontekstu suvremene sakralne arhitekture valja spomenuti crkvu Santo Volto di Gesù, koja je otvorena 2006. u predgrau Magliana. Raena u mramoru i staklu, impresionira velikom staklenom stijenom koja tvori osjetljivu granicu izmeu unutarnjega i vanjskog prostora (svijeta). Arhitekti Pietro Sartogo i Nathalie Grenon stvorili su estetizirani sakralni objekt u Ëijemu je predloπku

metaforiËki postavljena duhovna reﬂ eksija Isusa. U Rimu se danas gradi nekoliko vrijednih projekata, koji Êe za nekoliko godina ugledati svjetlo dana. Predgrae EUR svjedoËi gradnji novoga kongresnog centra Centro Congressi Italia, πto je projekt slavnog arhitekta Massimiliana Fuksasa. LebdeÊi objekt naËinjen je od transparentnih, high-tech materijala Fuksasovi oblaci. Projekt Torre Giardino luksuzni je poslovno rezidencijalni kompleks koji je osmislio Renzo Piano. Rem Koolhas u predgrau Ostiense radi grad mladih, koji Êe se protezati na 86.000 Ëetvornih metara.

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OËito je da se u Rimu ne spava, te da svjetska kriza ne utjeËe na metropolitanske sredine koje su u svojoj povijesti prolazile kroz razdoblja procvata i vlastite propasti. Rim ima legitimitet svjedoËiti o tim ekstremima, nekoÊ nedodirljivi Caput Mundi, zatim razoreni i napuπteni grad koji su u valovima uniπtavale i pljaËkale horde Vandala, Vizigota i Huna, dok ga renesansa ponovno nije preporodila i prometnula u religiozno, umjetniËko i arhitektonsko srediπte svijeta. Sveto mjesto u kojemu se povijest isprepleÊe u mistiËnoj igri gdje suËeljavanje æivota i smrti, svjetla i tame, staroga i novoga tvori unutarnji modus vivendi grada u njegovoj duhovnoj i materijalnoj opstojnosti. n

ince antiquity, Rome has had a metropolitan spirit of constant change and the continuous implementation of increasingly impressive architectural innovation. Through the centuries, it has seen the construction of temples, palaces, amphitheatres, catacombs, aqueducts, streets and roads. The city developed like a polyvalent organism ready to accept new ideas and new directions in architecture. In Rome, the question of architecture has always also been a question of politics. The ultimate aim of every period, from classical antiquity through neoclassicism to modern projects of internationally famous architectural studies, has been

to amaze the public and inspire awe. All the majestic buildings have been the expression of the power and importance of Rome in a wider context. In 1998, the Ministry of Culture requested a special committee of the National Gallery of Modern Art to announce a competition to design the MAXXI Museum. The design competition was won by Zaha Hadid and his team, whose functional, innovative and creative design was considered to ﬁt best into the city environment. The MAXXI opened its doors to the public on 30 May 2010. This is a highly important building for Rome, and one can assume that it will become a primary CROATIA AIRLINES

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destination for visitors, hungry for modern art exhibitions and events. The museum arose on the site of a former military barracks in the Flaminio neighbourhood. It amazes with its complexity of shapes, bending lines, organic structures, and varying and overlapping platforms by which the architect has managed to create a visually attractive spatial installation. Walking up the stairs lit by LED lights, you come to different platforms in an area where everyone chooses their own path and direction of movement. In the large, very high foyer, there is a reception area that leads you to an auditorium, to a series of galleries that house the museum’s permanent collection, and on to rooms hosting the works of modern artists. The Museum’s activities are directed towards experimentation and innovation in the arts and architecture. The MAXXI architecture museum consists of two basic parts, one focusing primarily on a theoretical and scientiﬁc analysis of twentieth century architecture and the other focusing on presenting and discussing modern architecture. Historical and modern components combine the past and the present in a way that is educational; the public is presented with expert analyses of new trends in architecture, cultural models and the human relationship within and towards architecture. The MAXXI art museum is the ﬁrst Italian museum completely devoted to modern art. It was conceived as a stage for a wide range of exhibitions and multimedia projects, conferences, video-art projections, and music and dance performances. Its major function is to stimulate artistic experimentation, as an ad hoc place for artistic creation and communication, which gives the museum an interactive characteristic by which its polyvalent functionality adapts to each new situation. The Auditorium Parco Della Musica (Renzo Piano) consists of three multifunctional buildings designed for hosting concerts and other cultural events: Sala Petrassi, named after Goffredo Petrassi, with 700 seats; Sala Sinopoli, named after Italian composer Giuseppe Sinopoli, with 1200 seats; Sala Santa Cecilia, with 2800 seats. These concert halls are structurally separated to ensure soundproofing, though joined at the base by a continuous lobby. A fourth concert hall, called Cavea, is an open-air theatre recalling ancient Greek and Roman amphitheatres, with a semi-circular auditorium around a central space. The Parco Della Musica, which is managed by the Musica per Roma Foundation, was inaugurated on 21 December 2002 and has become the central location for cultural events in Rome 92

and in the entire country due to the quality of its programme, its excellent organisation and the number of visitors: it attracts more than a million spectators a year. The largest concert hall is the home of Rome’s Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia classical orchestra. The multifunctional halls host not only classical and chamber music but also jazz, pop, rock, ethno and other forms of music; they also host theatre performances, ﬁlm projections, art exhibitions, fashion shows, conferences and literary events. The various festivals and cultural events that the Auditorium hosts soon became must-see events in Rome’s cultural calendar. All these activities raise the quality of life in the capital. The Parco della Musica is a generator of culture and a new concept of Rome, an institution that creates a powerful identity for the city in these new times. Renzo Piano’s deﬁnition of the Auditorium as a Culture factory has never been more apt than today. Although Rome is creating a modern generation of imposing buildings, the ambitious buildings of the 1920s and 1940s still stand out in the cityscape, especially in the EUR (Esposizione Universale di Roma) residential and business district. Mussolini had it built to direct the expansion of the city towards the south-west and the sea. This modern satellite district was called Cartière Europa or E42 but was later renamed EUR. It is a fascinating monument to the ideology of the time but has a conceptuality and style that is attractive even today. The architecture was inspired by the art and architecture of the Roman Empire. The clean lines of the new direction called Razionalismo stands out against the colder and simpler style with a totalitarian character. The Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana was constructed as the centrepiece of the World Exhibition that was meant to be held in Rome in 1942. Popularly known as the Colosseo Quadrato, it was designed by the architects Guerrini, Padula and Romano. The design was inspired by the Colosseum and is a celebration of that famous Roman monument. Construction was completed in 1943. It is very similar in design to the original, with a series of superimposed loggias, shown on the façade as six rows of nine arches each. The numbers are said to be an allusion to the name of the dictator: Benito (six letters) Mussolini (nine). The Palazzo dei Ricevimenti e dei Congressi, designed by Adalberto Libera, is one of the most interesting buildings in the EUR. Libera aimed at endowing the structure with a noble and elegant appearance, combining modern

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lines with a classical style. The sharp architectural outlines, the clean shapes and the attention to detail make the Palazzo dei Congressi a representative example of rationalist architecture, admired throughout the world. This building should rightly be considered as a genuine monument taking its place in history. The Palazzo should have been ready for the 1942 World Exhibition, but the start of the Second World War delayed its completion until 1954. Inside the Palazzo, the Aula Magna has been refurbished by the architect Paolo Portoghesi, and the other interiors are enriched by works of major artists. For example, there is a fresco painted by Achille Funi in 1953 on the wall of the Kennedy Hall. In the Art Hall, there is a work by Gino Severini, a major Futurist artist, painted for the International Exhibition of the Confagricoltura. And there are two magnificent mosaics in the café room, the work of Angelo Canevari in 1940. Another important building of the time is the Museo della Civiltà Romana, designed in 1941 by the architects Ascheri, Bernardini and Pascoletti. Its architectural style is specific to EUR and is a striking example of the monumental building of the time of the Roman Empire. The museum is divided into 59 sections that illustrate the history of Roman civilization. There is also the Marconi Obelisk, built in 1959 for the Summer Olympics in Rome; it was raised in honour of the inventor of radio technology, Guglielmo Marconi, and its marble panels contain illustrations of Marconi’s career and allegorical scenes. The EUR district is a prime example of what Italian architecture in the second half of the twentieth century might have looked if the fascist regime had not lost the war − wide streets and austere buildings of marble and limestone reflecting the style of Ancient Rome and Rationalism. The American architect Richard Meier has left his mark on Rome with two very characteristic designs: Dio Padre Misericordioso (the Jubilee Church), 2003, and Museo dell’Ara Pacis Augustae, 2006. La Chiesa del Dio Padre Misericordioso is one of 50 newly-built sacral buildings in the Vatican’s Millennium Project. The church is built of white concrete and glass and covers an area of 9,000 square metres in the poor Tor Tre Teste district, ten kilometres east of Rome. It is placed in a flat, triangular area between mainly residential tower blocks. It provides a completely new visual and spiritual content for the eight thousand residents of the area, who moved there in the 1970s into the classical high-rises of the time, with concrete yards, devoid of

green areas, that functioned as the only place for the residents to get together, play games and communicate. Meier won a competition that included Tadao Ando, Günter Behnisch, Santiago Calatrava, Peter Eisenman, and Frank Gehry. He was inspired by the churches of Finnish architect Alvar Aalto, Frank Lloyd Wright’s Wayfairer’s Chapel in America, and the work of Le Corbusier. The design includes three dramatic concrete shells that form the inner and outer membrane of the structure. These sails stretch 36 metres high and are made of concrete panels with a white marble finish. The structure is reinforced inside with steel, and the three naves are linked together by cruciform cables along the horizontal and vertical axes. The self-standing sails, which symbolize the Holy Trinity, are made to withstand heat, wind and earthquakes. The main wall, facing north, arches over and protects the main space of the church. As the architect puts it: … in the Jubilee Church, the three concrete shells define an enveloping atmosphere in which the light from the skylights above creates a luminous spatial experience, and the rays of sunlight serve as a mystic metaphor of the presence of God. Museo dell’Ara Pacis was created with the purpose of housing, preserving and exhibiting Are Pacis, a sacrificial altar dating from the fi rst century BC, the time of Emperor Augustus. It has aroused a great deal of publicity and controversy since its opening. In May 2006, Reuters and La Republicca reported that the newly-elected mayor of Rome, Gianni Alemanno, had said at a news conference that Meier’s just-fi nished Ara Pacis museum would be taken down and moved to another location. Allemanno later toned down his remarks, and said in the popular TV show Porta a Porta that he will hold a referendum on moving the museum, leaving it to the people of Rome to decide its fate. Ara Pacis is the only modern structure built within the ancient centre of Rome since the time of Mussolini, but it is the third most visited building in Rome. According to the mayor, …it is a question of incompatibility. It is in the baroque part of town, and such a style does not belong in the centre of Rome. Taking it down is not a priority, but I believe that some of the interventions in the museum are rather invasive. Mary Lou Bunn, a communications spokesperson for Richard Meier’s office said, things have been quiet (since the announcement was made). She added that Meier is willing to talk to the Mayor about the matter and that people at the firm are very attached to the

project. Ms. Bunn said that the Italian daily, the Corriere della Sera, had polled its readers about the matter with the results being that somewhere near 70% of respondents want the building to stay. In the context of modern sacral architecture, mentions should be made of the parish church of Santo Volto di Gesù, which was inaugurated in 2006 in the district of Magliana. Made of marble and glass, it has an enormous glass window that creates a delicate border between the inner and outer spaces (worlds). It was designed by Piero Sartogo and Nathalie Grenon, who have created an aesthetic sacral building that metaphorically embodies the spiritual reflection of Jesus. Several important buildings are now being built in Rome that will see the light of day in a few years. A new congress centre, Centro Congressi Italia, is being built in the EUR district. Designed by Massimiliano Fuksas, it is a translucent structure inside of which floats an enormous Teflon cloud. The Torre Giardino project is a luxury residential and business complex devised by Renzo Piano. Rem Koolhas is working on a City of Youth in the Ostiense area that will cover 86,000 square metres. It is obvious that Rome never sleeps and that global crises do not affect this city that has experienced rises and falls throughout its history. Once the untouchable Caput Mundi, it was devastated by waves of plundering hordes of Vandals, Visigoths and Huns, but then the renaissance turned it again into a religious, artistic and architectural centre. This holy place, where history weaves a mystical game in the interplay of life and death, light and dark, the old and the new, creates an inner modus vivendi for the spiritual and material existence of the city. n

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Svetište Majke Božje Trsatske, Trsat Shrine of Our Lady of Trsat, Trsat

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TRADICIJA TRADITION ■

Prema novozavjetnim tekstovima 25. oæujka, u Nazaretu, prihvativπi preko anela Gabrijela Boæju ponudu da bude majkom Sina Boæjega, Marija se rijeËima Neka mi bude po rijeËi tvojoj, potpuno predala i posvetila Bogu svoj æivot i prihvatila suradnju s njime u spasenju ljudskog roda. KatoliËki vjernici slave to blagdanom Blagovijesti. Poslije devet mjeseci, 25. prosinca, slavi se BoæiÊ, dan kad je Marija rodila Isusa i svijetu donijela dugo oËekivanog Spasitelja.

Piše/By Anelka MustapiÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

evaneljima se veoma malo govori o Mariji i njezinu æivotu, i to samo ako se tiËe Isusa. On je, naime, srediπte Svetoga pisma. Stari zavjet priprava je za njegov dolazak, a Novi prikazuje njega. Na temelju Svetog pisma ne znamo ni gdje se rodila, ni kako su joj se zvali roditelji... Njezino ime na aramejskome Miryam (gorka) bilo je u to vrijeme vrlo Ëesto. Iz apokrifnih spisa i crkvene Predaje doznajemo da su joj se roditelji zvali Joakim i Ana, a dobili su je veÊ u poodmakloj dobi. Bila je zaruËena s Josipom, a svog sina Isusa vjerno je pratila, tako da se moæe reÊi da je Marija prva Isusova uËenica, kako istiËe papa Pavao VI. - Iz evanelja oËito je da je Marija prava majka Isusa Krista. I crkveni oci uËe to isto. Ali, naslov Bogorodice u Svetom pismu nije nigdje izriËito

According to the New Testament, in Nazareth on 25 March, through the angel Gabriel, Mary accepted God’s offer to be the mother of the Son of God. Using the words Let it be to me according to your word, she totally surrendered and devoted her life to God and agreed to cooperate with him in the salvation of mankind. Catholic believers celebrate this with the Feast of the Annunciation. After nine months Mary gave birth to Jesus and brought the world its long-awaited Saviour. This was on 25 December, the day we celebrate Christmas. donesen. Prvi ga put nalazimo u 3. stoljeÊu. U 4. st. izbija prepirka u vezi s odnosom izmeu dviju naravi u Kristu, boæanske i ljudske, pa nastaje pitanje moæe li se Marija zvati Bogorodicom. Bogoslovsku raspravu zakljuËuje OpÊi crkveni sabor u Efezu 431. g., koji je Mariji dao naslov Majke Boæje ili Bogorodice i od kojega naziv Bogorodica postaje iskaznicom prave vjere o Isusovu utjelovljenju. Marija sudjeluje u stvaranju tijela Sina Boæjega, a ne njegove duπe, joπ manje njegova boæanstva. Naslov Bogorodica znaËi da je ona majka jednoga Ëovjeka koji je istodobno i Bog. Naslov Bogorodice radije upotrebljava krπÊanski Istok, a Majke Boæje krπÊanski Zapad - objaπnjava pater Petar Lubina, splitski franjevac i ugledni promicatelj marioloπke znanosti i marijanske poboænosti, te, meu ostalim, glavni urednik

katoliËkoga marijanskog mjeseËnika Marija, redoviti Ëlan Papinske meunarodne marijanske akademije u Rimu kao i Ëlan te donedavno petnaest godina tajnik Hrvatskoga marioloπkog instituta KatoliËkoga bogoslovnog fakulteta SveuËiiπta u Zagrebu. Marijino djeviËanstvo otajstvo je vjere. U Apostolskom vjerovanju Crkva ispovijeda da je Isus Krist zaËet po Duhu Svetomu, roen od Marije Djevice, da je pravi Bog i pravi Ëovjek. Da je Marija zaËela kao djevica, zahvatom Duha Svetoga, svjedoËe evanelja (Lk 1, 34). Crkva vjeruje i uËi da je ona vazda Djevica - prije Isusova poroaja, za poroaja i poslije poroaja. Ali, KatoliËka crkva vjeruje da je ona i bezgreπna. Tim izrazom æeli se reÊi da je Mariju Bog oËuvao od svake ljage grijeha, da je sva sveta. O njezinoj bezgreπnosti

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Svetište Majke Božje Remetske, Zagreb Shrine of Our Lady of Remete, Zagreb

Svetište Majke Božje BistriËke, Marija Bistrica Shrine of Our Lady of Bistrica, Marija Bistrica

novozavjetni tekstovi ne govore niπta. Te istine ne poznaju ni crkveni oci niti pisci iz prvih stoljeÊa Crkve. OslanjajuÊi se na tvrdnju sv. Pavla o opÊenitosti grijeha i sveopÊenitosti otkupljenja, poznati teolozi srednjeg vijeka istiËu da je Krist otkupio sva stvorenja, pa tako i Mariju − napominje pater Lubina. FranjevaËki mislilac bl. Ivan Duns ©kot (+1308.) razvija izvornu postavku prema kojoj bi Majka Isusova bila bi saËuvana od svake ljage grijeha iskonskoga u obliku zasluga Isusa Krista. On ne polazi od Marije, nego od Krista, savrπena Otkupitelja, koji je otkupljenje izveo na najsavrπeniji moguÊi naËin. Prema tome, Marija nije bila izuzeta od otkupljenja, nego je pre-otkupljena, tj. otkupljena na najsavrπeniji naËin, kako je to dolikovalo Kristu, savrπenu Otkupitelju. Tvrdnja Dunsa ©kota izvela je 96

srednjovjekovnu teologiju iz slijepe ulice i otvorila put prema dogmatskom pravorijeku. Crkva vjeruje da je Bl. Djevica Marija od prvog trenutka svoga æivota, zbog zasluga Isusa Krista, bila obdarena posebnom miloπÊu te stoga nije bila u stanju koje nazivamo izvornim grijehom. Bezgreπno Marijino zaËeÊe sastoji se u posjedovanju boæanskoga milosnog æivota od poËetka njezina postojanja. To joj je dano ne po njezinoj zasluzi, nego u obliku zasluga Isusa Krista kako bi mogla biti Otkupiteljeva majka. Stoga je ona od poËetka svoga postojanja bila obuhvaÊena otkupiteljskom i posvetnom Boæjom ljubavlju i njegovom boæanskom miloπÊu. To je saæet sadræaj nauka koji je 8. prosinca 1854. papa Pio IX. proglasio dogmom. Crk va je uvijek podupirala marijansku poboænost, kojoj su se priklonili i Hrvati odmah nakon pokrπtenja. Najstariji Gospin lik uklesan u kamenu pronaen je u Biskupiji kod Knina. Prvi spomen Marijina zagovora u Hrvata zabiljeæen je u 12. st. na crkvenoslavenskom jeziku na Kijevskim listiÊima iz 10. st., a prvu poznatu crkvu u Hrvatskoj sagradila je kraljica Jelena u 10. st. u Solinu, i to kao krunidbenu baziliku hrvatskih kraljeva. Na njezinim temeljima sagraeno je svetiπte Gospe od otoka. Od tog vremena pa do naπih dana gradile su se crkve u Ëast Majci Isusovoj, unatoË tomu πto hrvatski narod nikad nije bio bogat, tako da su danas u Hrvatskoj najbrojnije crkve posveÊene Majci Boæjoj, a teπko je naÊi koju bez Marijina oltara, kipa ili slike. Poslije benediktinaca, velike zasluge u πirenju marijanske poboænosti u Hrvatskoj imaju pavlini, zatim popovi glagoljaπi, prvi sijaËi pismenosti u Hrvatskoj, koji su uËili narod Ëitati, pisati i moliti, i veÊ u 13. st. pisali na hrvatskome bogoslovne udæbenike i prevodili starozavjetne i novozavjetne dijelove, kojekakve apokrife i pseudoepigrafe, osobito one u kojima se spominjala Bogorodica. U 14. stoljeÊu objavljivali su zbirke o Ëudesima Majke Boæje, πto im je bila osobito draga tema, a 1508. u Senju tiskali su, po uzoru na jednu sliËnu talijansku zbirku, Mirakule slavne Devi Marie, u kojoj Mariju prikazuju kao svoju najmoÊniju zagovornicu na nebu. U hrvatskoj marijanskoj tradiciji franjevci su dali gotovo osam stoljeÊa nemjerljiv doprinos. Jedino je u razdoblju protureformacije bilo jakih pokuπaja jedne crkvene struje da se Marija potisne, kako ne bi Ëinila sjenu Kristu Otkupitelju, ali pobijedila je ona struja koja je naglaπavala da se, dapaËe, Bog preko Marije odræava. Prvu struËnu skolastiËku Mariologiju na hrvatskom jeziku objavio je 1899. godine prof. dogmatike na KatoliËkom bogoslovnom fakultetu u Zagrebu Ivan BujanoviÊ. On u svojoj

knjizi naπiroko obrazlaæe tvrdnju da je Marija naπa posrednica (Mediatrix nostra), da je naπa majka, uzor i primjer krπÊanskim vjernicima, osobito æenama, posrednica svih milosti i, πto je novina u tumaËenju uloge Majke Boæje, da je ona suradnica u otkupljenju ljudskog roda. Fra Karlo BaliÊ (+1977.) najveÊi je i najpoznatiji hrvatski mariolog svjetskoga glasa novijega doba. U Rimu je utemeljio Papinsku meunarodnu marijansku akademiju, sa svrhom da koordinira rad nacionalnih marijanskih i marioloπkih druπtava u svijetu i organizira meunarodne marijanske i marioloπke kongrese, na kojima je prouËavano Marijino πtovanje. Istaknuo se u radu oko pripremanja proglaπenja dogme o Marijinu uznesenju 1950. godine i kao teolog na II. vatikanskom saboru (1962.-1965.). Naglaπavao je posebice ulogu Marije kao posrednice. BaliÊ upozorava na to da se smisao Marijina majËinstva ne moæe svesti samo prema ljudima. Ona je i Majka Crkve, kako ju je proglasio papa Pavao VI. na II. vatikanskom saboru. U godiπnjem krugu otajstava, od utjelovljenja do slavnog dolaska na kraju vremena, KatoliËka crkva slavi ove marijanske blagdane koji se, prema stupnju liturgijskog slavlja, razlikuju: Svetkovina svete Bogorodice Marije (1. sijeËnja), Uznesenje Blaæene Djevice Marije ili Velika Gospa (15. kolovoza), Bezgrjeπno zaËeÊe Blaæene Djevice Marije (8. prosinca), koji se slave kao svetkovine; zatim Pohoenje Blaæene Djevice Marije (31. svibnja) i Roenje Blaæene Djevice Marije ili Mala Gospa (8. rujna) kao blagdani. Ostalo su obvezatni spomendani: Bezgreπno Srce Marijino (subota nakon 2. nedjelje po Duhovima), Bl. Djevica Marija Kraljica (22. kolovoza), Bl. Djevica Marija Æalosna (15. rujna), Gospa od svete Krunice (7. listopada), Prikazanje bl. Djevice Marije u Hramu ili Gospa od Zdravlja (21. studenoga) i neobvezatni spomendani: Bl. Djevica Marija Lurdska (11. veljaËe), Gospa Fatimska (13. svibnja), Gospa Karmelska (16. srpnja), Posveta bazilike sv. Marije ili Gospa Snjeæna (5. kolovoza), Ime Marijino (12. rujna) i Gospa Guadalupska (12. prosinca). Osim toga, Crkva u Hrvata slavi k tome i ove blagdane: Marija, Majka Crkve (Duhovski ponedjeljak), Majka Boæja BistriËka (13. srpnja) i Gospa Velikoga hrvatskoga krsnog Zavjeta (nedjelja poslije blagdana Male Gospe). O tome kako je svoj ovozemaljski æivotni put zavrπila Majka Isusova u Svetom pismu nema niπta izriËito, a nema za to ni svjedoËanstava iz prvih stoljeÊa. To je bio povod apokrifnim spisima da razviju pretpostavke koje su stavile u pitanje Marijinu smrt i predloæile njezin prijelaz iz ovoga æivota bez smrti. Ako je smrt posljedica grijeha, a Marija je od njega bila izuzeta,

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Svetište Majke Božje Sinjske Shrine of Our Lady of Sinj

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onda je bila izuzeta i od smrti! Prve naznake o tome nalazimo kod sv. Efrema Sirijskog (+373.), a o Marijinu uznesenju prvi izriËito govori Epifanije (+403.). VeÊ od 7. st. slavilo se Marijino uznesenje na nebo u bogosluæju, a od 10. st. veÊina teologa nauËava tu vjersku istinu. Tek je papa Pio XII. bulom Predareæljivi Bog (Muniﬁcentissimus Deus) 1. studenoga 1950. to proglasio dogmom: Bezgreπna Bogorodica vazda Djevica Marija, nakon zavrπetka svoga zemaljskog æivota, duπom i tijelom uznesena je u nebesku slavu. To je uËinio nakon πto je pismeno zatraæio miπljenje svih biskupa, na πto su oni odgovorili da smatraju da je Marijino uznesenje sadræano u objavi i dræe korisnim da se ta istina proglasi. Poslije svog uznesenja Marija je napokon proslavljena u Bogu i s Bogom. I tijelom i duπom, Ëime je izraæeno da je i ljudsko tijelo predodreeno za slavu. Izraz uznesena æeli reÊi da je Marijino uznesenje Boæje djelo. Na Marijinu primjeru najbolje se vidi kako Bog ne napuπta Ëovjeka koji mu se potpuno dariva u vjeri. - Crkva je uvijek dræala da je Marija umrla. BuduÊi da je Isusa u svemu slijedila na njegovu æivotnom putu, bilo bi neobiËno da nije prije proπla kroz smrt kao i on. Marijina smrt potvruje da je trebala otkupitelja, da je imala smrtno ljudsko tijelo i da je Isus kojega je rodila bio pravi Ëovjek. U nebesku slavu uznesena je Ëitavim svojim biÊem i veÊ postigla ono πto je zajamËeno svim Ëlanovima Crkve na kraju vremena. Ono πto se dogodilo s Marijom, Bog Êe uËiniti sa svima koji poput nje vjeruju, sluπaju Boæju rijeË i nju provode u æivot. Marija je tako znak i zalog proslave Ëitave Crkve kao zajednice i svakog otkupljenika napose. Ali, Mariji nije sve bilo objavljeno.Nije sve znala. Isprva nije bila potpuno svjesna tko je Isus, ali stalno je napredovala na putu vjere, rasla u njoj iz dana u dan. I bliska nam je svima kao Majka Isusova, okuplja nas oko njega i na njega nas usmjerava, osobito na vaæne marijanske blagdane po svojim svetiπtima i crkvama. I, kao πto je bila na zemlji zabrinuta za sudbinu ljudskog roda, vjerujemo da tu svoju majËinsku ulogu i danas nastavlja: iz nebeske slave brine se za braÊu svoga Sina, koji su joπ na putu prema nebeskoj domovini i nailaze na njemu na razliËite teπkoÊe, a to znaËi za krπÊane, i da nas sve æeli privesti Isusu − napominje pater Petar Lubina koji je 1995. objavio knjigu Marijanska Hrvatska, monograﬁju o marijanskim hrvatskim svetiπtima. Obiπao je sva marijanska svetiπta na prostoru bivπe Jugoslavije, opisao ih je 101, od kojih su 85 njih u Hrvatskoj. Neka to zapravo viπe i nisu u pravom smislu rijeËi, ali znaËajna su zbog svoje proπlosti, joπ ih ljudi posjeÊuju. Neka 98

viπe zbog njihove umjetnosti, kulture i sl., πto je sluËaj s pavlinskom crkvom u Lepoglavi, nekadaπnjim pavlinskim sjediπtem, u kojemu je bilo otvoreno visoko uËiliπte u Hrvatskoj. Ili Crkva sv. Marije Snjeæne u Belcu, koju ljudi viπe posjeÊuju zbog njezine umjetnosti, nego zbog svetiπta. Meu poznatija svetiπta Majke Boæje u Hrvatskoj ubrajaju se bistriËko, remetsko, trsatsko, aljmaπko, voÊinsko, trπkovrπko, loborsko, sinjsko, vepriËko, krasnarsko, Gospe od Kamenitih vrata u Zagrebu, molvarsko, vrpoljaËko, kloπtarsko, u Slavonskom Brodu, Majke Boæje GoriËke na Krku... Novija su svetiπta: Sv. Mati Slobode na Jarunu, sagraeno na spomen svim poginulim braniteljima u Domovinskom ratu, i Gospa od Suza u Pleternici, koja je prije nekoliko godina slavila pola stoljeÊa postojanja. - Svetiπta su uvijek imala odreene povode nastanka - tvrdi pater Lubina. − NajËeπÊe su sagraena u znak zahvalnosti Gospi na njezinoj pomoÊi. Primjerice, slika Sinjske Gospe donesena je u Sinj iz Rame 1687., a Sinj postaje poznatiji kao svetiπte 1715., nakon pobjede nad Turcima, jer vjerovalo se da je u tome Sinjanima pomogla Gospa. »ak su Turci govorili da su na zidinama vidjeli æenu u bijelome, i to ih je nagnalo u bijeg. Svetiπte Gospe od Kamenitih vrata nastalo je 1731.g., poslije poæara u kojemu je jedino saËuvana slika Majke Boæje. Sva ta svetiπta imaju istu funkciju: Majka Boæja privlaËi svijet, okuplja ga oko svoga sina Isusa, njemu ga privodi, jer domovina naπa je na nebesima, kako kaæe apostol Pavao. Prema tome, Majka Isusova imala je ulogu svijetu donijeti Spasitelja, a ostaje i dalje Majka jer ljude i dalje upuÊuje na Isusa, pogotovo kad su vremena teπka, kao πto su danaπnja. Vidite koliko su puna Gospina svetiπta! Hrvati Gospu osobito rado zazivaju Odvjetnicom ili Zagovornicom Hrvata i Kraljicom Hrvata - kaæe pater Lubina, koji dræi da je ispravnije Majku Boæju zvati odvjetnicom: - Zapis da je Majka Boæja Odvjetnica Hrvata naen je ispod remetskog kipa: Advocata Croatiae ﬁdelisima mater, πto bi znaËilo Odvjetnica Hrvatske - najvjernija Majka. To pitanje provlaËi se od srednjeg vijeka, kad su ljudi bili veoma optereÊeni problemom spasenja, tko Êe se spasiti. A osobit problem jest Ëas smrti, odlazak s ovoga svijeta. Onda treba doÊi na sud Boæji, gdje nam treba netko tko Êe nas obraniti, dakle odvjetnik. ©to se tiËe naziva Kraljica Hrvata, majku Boæju sliËno zovu i drugi narodi, Poljaci, Slovenci… rijeË je samo o tome kako Êe tko osjeÊati njezinu blizinu… Hrvati Ëesto smatraju da im je Majka Boæja osobito naklonjena. Hrvatska je proπlost bila tegobna. Kao narod uvelike smo patili, postavljeni smo na vjetrometini izmeu Istoka i Zapada, na

kriæiπtu kultura i svjetova. Hrvatski narod u Majci Boæjoj nalazi Ëvrst oslonac. Iskazuje joj πtovanje na razliËite naËine: odlaskom na sv. mise, primanjem svetih sakramenata ispovijedi i priËesti, dræeÊi subotu kao dan Majke Boæje, moljenjem krunice, odreenih devetnica, trodnevnica, hodoËaπÊem u Gospina svetiπta, neki to danas Ëine jednako kao πto su Ëinili i naπi preci, bosih nogu, neovisno o tome pjeπaËe li asfaltom ili kamenjarom, obilazeÊi oko njezinih slika… A Majka Boæja naklonjena je svakomu tko joj se otvori. Bog se otvara svakomu tko mu otvori srce. »esto u propovijedima i susretima s ljudima spominjem zakon stisnute πake. Ako Ëovjek dræi πaku zatvorenu, ne moæe niπta u nju primiti. Odnosno, ako su naπa srca zatvorena i nemamo mjesta u njima za Boga, ne moæemo niπta ni dobiti. Rekao bih joπ da je najbolja priprava za BoæiÊ kroz doπaπÊe s Majkom Boæjom koja je oËekivala Sinov dolazak, znajuÊi da Êe tako obradovati cijeli svijet. I danas nam moæe biti uzor kako i mi sami, u skromnosti, poniznosti, osluπkujuÊi Boæju volju, moæemo najbolje doËekati BoæiÊ i radosno ga proslaviti - zakljuËio je pater Lubina. n

here is precious little about Mary and her life in the Gospels, and what we find is only in relation to Jesus. He is, in fact, the centre of the Scriptures. The Old Testament is a preparation for his arrival, and the New Testament presents him. The Scriptures tell us nothing as to where she was born, or even the names of her parents... Her name in Aramaic, Miryam (bitter), was very common at that time. We learn from the Apocryphal Scriptures and church legends that her parents were called Joachim and Anne, and they had her at an advanced age. She was engaged to Joseph, and she followed her son Jesus faithfully, so we can say that Mary was the first disciple of Jesus, as pointed out by Pope Paul VI. From the Gospel it is obvious that Mary was the real mother of Jesus Christ. The church fathers teach the same. But, the title Mother of God is explicitly proffered nowhere in the Scriptures. The first time we come across it is in the 3rd century. In the 4th century an argument broke out in connection with the relationship between the two natures in Christ, the divine and the human, so that the question arose as to whether Mary could be called Mother of God. Theological discussions concluded by the general Church Council at Ephesus in the year 431 gave Mary the title Mother of God or Our Lady Mother of God. From the time of the Councils onwards, the title Mother of God became a sign of the true

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Svetište Majke Božje Jeruzalemske, Trški Vrh Shrine of Our Lady of Jerusalem, Trški Vrh CROATIA AIRLINES

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Crkva Bezgrešnog ZaËeÊa, Lepoglava Church of the Immaculate Conception, Lepoglava

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Crkva Uznesenja sv. Marije, Samobor Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Samobor

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Crkva Svete Marije Snje탑ne, Kutina Church of Our Lady of the Snows, Kutina

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Kamenita vrata, Zagreb Stone Gate, Zagreb

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faith concerning Jesus’ incarnation. Mary participated in creating the body of the Son of God, but not his soul, and his divinity even less. The title Virgin Mary means that she is the mother of a man who is at the same time God. The title Virgin Mary is preferred by the Eastern Christians, while Mother of God is used by the Western Christians, explains Father Peter Lubin, a Franciscan from Split and renowned promoter of the science of Mariology and Marian devotion, and, among other things, the chief editor of the Marian Catholic monthly Mary. He is also a regular member of the Pontifical International Marian Academy in Rome, as well as a member, and until recently, the secretary for fifteen years of the Croatian Mariological Institute of the Catholic Theology Faculty of the University of Zagreb. Mary’s virginity is a mystery of faith. In the Apostles’ Creed the church teaches that Jesus Christ was conceived by the Holy Spirit and born of the Virgin Mary, that he is true God and true man. The Gospel (Luke 1, 34) testifies that Mary conceived as a virgin with the intervention of the Holy Spirit. The church believes and teaches that she is the ever-Virgin; before Jesus’ birth, during birth and after birth. However, the Catholic Church believes that she is also immaculate. This phrase means that God preserved Mary from any stain of sin; that she is a saint. The texts of the New Testament do not say anything regarding her immaculateness. These truths are not known either by the church fathers or the writers from the first centuries of the existence of the church. Famous medieval theologians point out that Christ redeemed all creatures including Mary as they relied on Saint Paul’s claims regarding the universality of sin and the generality of redemption, says Father Lubin. The Franciscan philosopher, the Blessed John Duns Scotus (1308), developed the original thesis according to which the Mother of Jesus would be freed from sin and from its effects through the saving power of Jesus Christ. He did not start from Mary, but from Christ, the perfect Redeemer, who brought redemption in the most perfect way possible. Thus, Mary was not exempt from redemption; rather, she was pre-redeemed, that is, redeemed in the most perfect way, as it befitted Christ, the perfect Redeemer. Duns Scotus’ claim guided medieval theology from a dead end street and paved the way towards the definition of the dogma of the Immaculate Conception. The Church believes that the Blessed Virgin Mary was endowed with a special grace from the first moment of her life, due to the merits of Jesus Christ, and therefore she was not

in the state which we call original sin. Mary’s Immaculate Conception consists in the possession of the divine grace of life from the beginning of her existence. It was given to her not for her merit, but in view of the merits of Jesus Christ, in order to be Mother of the Redeemer. Therefore, from the beginning of her existence she was included in the redemption and consecration of God’s love and his divine grace. This is a short abstract of the teaching that Pope Pius IX proclaimed dogma on 8 December 1854. The Church has always supported the Marian devotion, which the Croats also conformed to immediately after Baptism. The oldest image of Our Lady carved in stone was found in the diocese of Knin. The first mention of Mary’s intercession in Croatia was recorded in the 12th century in the Church Slavonic language in the Kijevo Missals from the 10th century, and the first known church in Croatia was built by Queen Helen in the 10th century in Solin as the Coronation Basilica of Croatian Kings. The Shrine of Our Lady of the Island was built on its foundations. From that time until our days, churches have been built in honour of the Mother of Jesus, despite the fact that the Croatian people have never been rich, so that today most of the churches in Croatia are dedicated to the Mother of God, and it is difficult to find one without Mary’s altar, statue or picture. After the Benedictine monks, the Paulists take the greatest credit for spreading Marian devotion in Croatia, then the Glagolitic priests, the first disseminators of literacy in Croatia, who taught the people to read, write and pray, and already in the 13th century they wrote theological books in Croatian and translated parts of the Old Testament and New Testament, and all sorts of Apocrypha and Pseudepigrapha, especially those in which the Virgin was mentioned. In the 14th century they published collections of the Wonders of the Mother of God, which was their particularly dear topic, and they printed the Miracles of the Famous Virgin Mary in Senj in 1508, modelled after a similar Italian collection. In that work, Mary was depicted as their most powerful advocate in heaven. The Franciscans have made an almost immeasurable contribution to the Croatian Marian tradition over the past eight centuries. Only during the Counter Reformation was there a strong attempt by one church stream to suppress Mary so she would not cast a shadow on Christ the Redeemer, but the stream that won was the one that stressed that, indeed, God persisted through Mary. The first professional scholastic Mariology in the Croatian language was published in 1899

by Ivan BujanoviÊ, a professor of dogmatics at the Catholic Theological Faculty in Zagreb. In his book he widely substantiated the claim that Mary is our mediator (Mediatrix Nostra); that she is our mother, role model and example for Christian believers, especially women, and that she is the mediator of all graces. He also proposes a novelty in the interpretation of the role of the Mother of God as an assistant in the redemption of mankind. Fra Karlo BaliÊ (1977) was the greatest and most famous Croatian Mariologist of the modern era who achieved global fame. In Rome he founded the Pontiﬁcal International Marian Academy, in order to coordinate the work of the national Marian and Mariological associations in the world and organize international Marian and Mariological congresses in which devotion to Mary was studied. He is distinguished for his work preparing the proclamation of the dogma of the Assumption of Mary in 1950 and as a theologian at the Second Vatican Council (1962 to 1965). He particularly stressed the role of Mary as a mediator. BaliÊ points out that the meaning of Mary’s motherhood cannot be seen in its reduced form as mother to the people. She is the Mother of the Church, as she was proclaimed by Pope Paul VI at the Second Vatican Council. In the annual cycle of mysteries, from the incarnation to the glorious coming at the end of time, the Catholic Church celebrates the following Marian holidays, which differ according to the degree of liturgical celebrations: Solemnity of Mary, Mother of God (1 January), the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary or the Assumption (15 August), Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary (8 December) which are all celebrated as feasts; then the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary (31 May) and Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary or Little Lady (8 September) as holidays. Others are holy days of obligation: The Immaculate Heart of Mary (Saturday after the 2nd Sunday of Pentecost), The Blessed Virgin Mary (22 August), Our Lady of Sorrows (15 September), Our Lady of the Holy Rosary (7 October), Presentation of the Blessed Virgin Mary in the Temple or Our Lady of Good Health (21 November). There are also days without obligation of remembrance: Our Lady of Lourdes (11 February), Our Lady of Fatima (13 May), Our Lady of Mount Caramel (16 July), Dedication of the Basilica of St. Mary or Our Lady of the Snows (5 August), The Holy Name of Mary (12 September) and Our Lady of Guadalupe (12 December). Moreover, the Church in Croatia celebrates these holidays as well: Mary, Mother of the Church (Whit Monday), The Mother of God of Bistrica (13 CROATIA AIRLINES

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July) and Our Lady of the Great Croatian Vow (Sunday after the feast of Our Lady). Nothing particular is written in the Scriptures about how the Mother of Jesus’ earthly life ended; and nothing testifies to that from the first centuries. That was the reason why apocryphal writings developed assumptions that questioned Mary’s death and suggested her transition from this life without death. If death is the result of sin, and Mary was exempt from sin, she was also exempt from death! The first indication of this is found in Saint Ephrem the Syrian (373), whereas Epiphanius (403) was the first to explicitly talk about the Assumption of Mary. Already from the 7th century, the Assumption of Mary into heaven was celebrated in worship, and as of the 10th century, the majority of theologians taught that as religious truth. It was not until Pope Pius XII’s bull, Munificentissimus Deus, on 1 November 1950, that it was a declared dogma: the Immaculate Mother of God, the ever-Virgin Mary, having completed the course of her earthly life, was assumed body and soul into heavenly glory. He did that after a written opinion was requested from all the bishops, to which they replied that they thought the Assumption of Mary was contained in the annunciation, and deemed it useful to declare this truth. Upon her assumption Mary was finally reputed in God and with God, as well as with body and soul, which shows that the human body is destined for glory. The term assumed means that the Assumption of Mary is God’s work. The example of Mary best shows how God does not abandon a man who gives himself fully unto him in faith. The Church has always held that Mary died. Since she followed Jesus during his life’s journey in every way, it would be unusual if she had not previously passed through death, the same as he did. Mary’s death confirms that she needed a redeemer; that she had a mortal human body and that Jesus, whom she gave birth to, was a real person. She was assumed in to the glory of heaven with all her being, and she has already achieved what is guaranteed to all members of the church at the end of time. What happened to Mary God will do to all those who like her believe, who obey God’s word and live their lives accordingly. Mary is, therefore, a sign and pledge of the celebration of the whole church as a community and each redeemed person in particular. However, not everything was revealed to Mary. She did not know everything. At first she was not fully aware of who Jesus was, but she always progressed on the path of faith, growing in it from day to day. As the 106

Mother of Jesus she is close to all of us, she gathers us around him and points us in his direction, especially on the important Marian holidays which are celebrated in her shrines and churches. She was concerned for the fate of mankind while she was on earth; we believe that her maternal role still continues in the same way: from the glory of heaven she cares for the Christian brethren of her Son who are still making their journey to our heavenly home and who stumble on that path faced with various difficulties. She wants to bring us all to Jesus. This is explained by Father Peter Lubin who, in 1995, published the monograph entitled Marian Croatia depicting the Croatian Marian shrines. He had visited all the Marian shrines in the former Yugoslavia, describing 101 of them, of which 85 are in Croatia. In fact, some of them no longer exist in the true sense of the word, but they are still significant because of their past, and people still visit them. Some of them are visited more because of their art, culture, etc., as is the case with the Pauline church in Lepoglava, the former Pauline headquarters, where the first higher education academy was opened in Croatia. There is also St. Mary of the Snow in Belec, one of those which people visit more for its art than for its role as a sanctuary. Among the better known shrines of Our Lady in Croatia are those in Bistrica, Remete, Trsat, Aljmaπ, VoÊin, Trπki Vrh, Lobor, Sinj, Vepric, Krasno, Our Lady of the Stone Gate in Zagreb, Molve, Vrpolje, Kloπtar in Slavonski Brod, Our Lady of Gorica on Krk... The newer sanctuaries include: Holy Mother of Freedom at Jarun, built in memory of all the soldiers killed in the Homeland War, and Our Lady of Tears in Pleternica, which a few years ago celebrated its half century of existence. - Shrines have always been created for a cause, says Father Lubin. - They are often built as a token of gratitude to Our Lady for her help. For example, the painting of Our Lady of Sinj was brought to Sinj from Rama in 1687, and Sinj became known as a shrine in 1715, after the victory over the Turks, because it is believed that the people of Sinj were helped by Our Lady. Even the Turks themselves said that they saw a woman in white on the walls and that drove them to flee. The Shrine of Our Lady of the Stone Gate was created in 1731, from which only a painting of the Mother of God came out unscathed. All these shrines have the same function: the Mother of God draws people; she gathers everyone around her son Jesus; she leads them to him because our homeland is in the heavens, as the Apostle Paul says. Therefore, the Mother of Jesus had the role to bring the world their Savior, and she

still remains a mother because she continues to lead people to Jesus, especially when times are tough, as they are today. You can see for yourself how full Our Lady’s shrines are! Croatians are especially happy to call our Lady an attorney or an advocate of the Croats or the Queen of the Croats. Father Lubina thinks it’s correct to call the Mother of God an advocate. - A written record that the Mother of God is the advocate of the Croats was found beneath the statue in Remete: Advocata Croatiae fidelis mater, which would mean - Croatian advocate - the most faithful mother. This idea comes from the Middle Ages when people were extremely burdened with the issue of salvation and who would be saved. The moment of death and departure from this world was a particularly poignant subject. And then, onto the moment we come before the court of God where we need someone to defend us; a lawyer. As for the name Queen of the Croats, the mother of God is called by this or similar names by other nations, the Poles, Slovenians ... it is just about how close people feel to her... Croatians quite firmly believe that the Mother of God especially favours them. The Croats’ past was harsh. As a nation we have suffered greatly; it was given to us to live at a windswept place between East and West, at the intersection of cultures and worlds. Croatian people have found a staunch supporter in the Mother of God. They express their respect for her in various ways: by going to Mass, confession, communion, receiving the Holy Sacraments of confession and communion, keeping Saturdays as the day of the Mother of God, by praying the Rosary, particularly the novenas, triduums, by going on pilgrimages to the shrines of Our Lady, which some people still do the same way our ancestors did, barefoot, regardless of whether they walk on streets or on rocky ground, and walking around her paintings... The Mother of God is inclined to everyone who opens to her. God is open to anyone who opens his heart. In my sermons and meetings with the people I often mention the law of a clenched fist. If a man keeps his fist closed, he cannot accept anything in it. That is, if our hearts are closed and we have no place in them for God, we cannot get anything. I would also like to say that the best preparation for Christmas is through advent with the Mother of God, who expected her Son’s arrival, knowing that she would bring joy to the whole world. And even today she can be our role model and show us by example how we ourselves, in modesty, humility, listening to the will of God, can best welcome Christmas and celebrate it with joy, concludes Father Lubin. n

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NagraďŁżeni radovi/awarded pieces, 2009.

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DIZAJN DESIGN ■

I ove godine od 10. prosinca do 7. sijeËnja, u Galeriji HDD, mladi dizajneri i studenti dizajna, kao i veÊ aﬁrmirani autori, demonstriraju golem potencijal za igru, stvaranje i komunikaciju, iznova pronaen ondje gdje smo ga zaboravili. Bor s nama, natjeËaj i izloæba, postao je tradicija u kojoj uæivaju i dizajneri i publika… From 10 December to 7 January, in the gallery of HDD, young designers and design students, as well as the already renowned authors, demonstrate their tremendous potential to play, create and communicate, rediscovering there what we have forgotten. The Christmas Tree with us became a tradition which is equally enjoyed by designers and the audience.

amislite golem supermarket specijaliziran za boæiÊna drvca svih vrsta i boja, svih veliËina, oblika i namjena - ukratko, sve πto moæete poæeljeti, a da ima pravo zvati se boæiÊnim drvcem. Moæda su takvu sliku u glavi imali idejni zaËetnici natjeËaja i izloæbe Bor s nama − Christmas Tree Superstore kad su smiπljali naziv za projekt koji bi u isti mah trebao biti intelektualan i topao, ironiËan i iskren, kritiËan i dobrohotan, podjednako opijen blagdanskim ugoajem i zaoπtren britkim trezvenim humorom. Iako engleski podnaslov pojaËava spomenutu sliku, namjera Christmas Tree Superstorea nije bila, niti je danas, ni blizu tako megalomanska, nadrealna i apsurdna. Projekt je zaËet unutar male, ali propulzivne galerije u sklopu Hrvatskoga dizajnerskog druπtva, koja je te 2009. tek poËela djelovati. Kao prvi izloæbeni prostor u Hrvatskoj potpuno posveÊen dizajnu, galerija HDD od samoga je poËetka nastojala ne samo prikazivati najbolje u suvremenome hrvatskom dizajnu i njegovoj povijesti, nego i preko razliËitih izloæaba postavljati kljuËna pitanja o ulozi dizajna u druπtvu, o dizajnu kao procesu, o nesvakidaπnjim vrijednostima sasvim svakodnevnih predmeta, o jedinstvenosti vizualnih poruka πiroke cirkulacije, i o potencijalima za bolji, a ne samo dizajniraniji svijet. A onda je, s

prvom godinom djelovanja na izmaku, uslijedio predah od svih tih vaænih tema i uranjanje punim pluÊima u blagdansku atmosferu sa svim njezinim vjerskim i sekularnim licima i naliËjima te je dizajnerima poslan poziv da se odazovu na prvi natjeËaj za dizajniranu alternativu konvencionalnoga boæiÊnog drvca. Rezultat je bio tako svjeæ, zanimljiv i raznovrstan, da je Bor s nama postao tradicija u kojoj uæivaju i dizajneri i publika, pa i nemalo vlasnika maloserijski proizvedenih najboljih radova s proteklih izloæbi. No, kakvog smisla ima redizajn neËega tako nepromjenjivoga, autentiËnoga i zadanoga? Zapravo, obiËaj ukraπavanja bora nije baπ tako star kako obiËno mislimo, niti je tako odreen u kamenu kao πto se Ëini. Dok mitova o njegovu porijeklu ima mnogo i seæu do duboko u proπlost, sam ritual kiÊenja boæiÊnog drvca tek je u 19. stoljeÊu postao masovan i raπiren u obliku i znaËenju pribliæno onakvome kakav poznajemo danas. U Hrvatsku je uπao tek oko 1850., najvjerojatnije pod njemaËkim utjecajem. Za naπa danaπnja oËekivanja od boæiÊnog ugoaja, takoer, jednako je zasluæan Charles Dickens kao i religijska tradicija, a za sadaπnji imidæ ikone kao πto je Djed BoæiÊnjak, kaæe urbana legenda, velikim je dijelom odgovorna promidæbena kampanja proizvoaËa popularnoga gaziranog piÊa iz tridesetih godina

Piše/By Marko Golub Fotograﬁje/Photos Arhiva Hrvatskog dizajnerskog društva/Croatian Designers’ Asociation Archive

Izložba/exhibition, 2010.

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proπlog stoljeÊa. I industrija je zabave u ovome i proπlom stoljeÊu naveliko eksploatirala boæiÊnu i novogodiπnju euforiju, ali istodobno ju je u mnogim segmentima bitno transformirala. Marketing i dizajn imali su sliËnu ambivalentnu ulogu. Pa ipak, Bor s nama nije zamiπljen kao generator hiperprodukcije novih trgovinskih artikala koji Êe se stopiti s bezbrojem drugih, nego prije svega kao inkubator ideja koji dizajnerima pruæa priliku da participiraju u atmosferi kakva jest i ne treba je ignorirati, i to na kreativan, kritiËan, samosvjestan, nepretenciozan naËin. I u skromnome, humanome mjerilu. Predmeti koje su pritom proizveli idejno i estetski odskaËu od uobiËajene træiπne ponude, ali ne tek kao marketinπka nadogradnja veÊ postojeÊih obrazaca, koja ih Ëini drugaËijima i samim time poæeljnima i konkurentnima. U projektima koji su stizali na natjeËaj sada veÊ tri godine za redom, dizajneri interpretiraju uobiËajene boæiÊno-novogodiπnje rekvizite nerijetko ih dovodeÊi u oblikovno i znaËenjski neobiËne i neoËekivane odnose. Kroz inteligentne ideje i priËe koje komuniciraju, ili kroz interakciju na koju pozivaju potencijalnog korisnika, mnogi od njih ujedno su i komentar samog konteksta u kojem nastaju. Ekoloπki aspekt na prvoj je izloæbi bio naglaπen ne samo u temi natjeËaja, nego i u preferiranome materijalu. Papir je tako odabran zbog moguÊnosti reciklaæe, jednostavnosti produkcije i minimuma potrebnih sredstava. Neke od radova korisnik dovrπava sam, Ëime se razvija afektivan odnos prema predmetu, ali i ohrabruje vlastita kreativnost, koju preËesto zanemarujemo podreujuÊi je kompulzivnim potroπaËkim navikama. Katkad je dovoljan obiËan svakodnevni predmet i najjednostavnija ideja koja Êe ga transformirati u neπto sasvim drugo. I ove godine od 10. prosinca do 7. sijeËnja, u Galeriji HDD, mladi dizajneri i studenti dizajna, kao i veÊ aﬁrmirani autori, demonstrirat Êe golem potencijal za igru, stvaranje i komunikaciju, iznova pronaen ondje gdje smo ga zaboravili. Netko Êe se s izloæbe vratiti inspiriran humorom, domiπljatoπÊu i samom atmosferom, netko Êe sa sobom iz galerije ponijeti redizajnirani bor, dar, Ëestitku ili dekoraciju u njezin novi æivot. Bor s nama - Christmas Tree Superstore vjerojatno nikad neÊe izrasti u ironiËnu metaforu kojom se poigrao u nazivu, ali sasvim sigurno nastavlja rasti u fascinantnu kolekciju hrvatskog produkt dizajna. n

Borda, pohvala/acknowledgement, 2011.

magine a huge supermarket that specializes in Christmas trees of all types and colours, all sizes, shapes and purposes − in short, everything you could want that has the right to be called a Christmas tree. Perhaps that is exactly the picture the initiators of the 110

QR kuglice, nagrada/award, 2011.

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Izložba/exhibition, 2009.

Izložba/exhibition, 2010.

X-maspom-pom kit, nagrada/award, 2011.

competition and exhibit Christmas Tree with us − Christmas Tree Superstore had in their heads when they came up with the name of the project which at the same time would be intellectual and warm, ironic and honest, critical and benevolent, equally intoxicating with a holiday feeling and sharpened by harsh, sane humour. Although the English subtitle reinforces the images mentioned, the intention of the Christmas Tree Superstore was not, nor is it today, nearly that megalomaniacal, surreal and absurd. The project was conceived within the small, but dynamic gallery within the Croatian Designers’ Association (HDD), which only started working in 2009. As the first exhibition space in Croatia fully dedicated to design, the HDD gallery, from the very beginning, sought to not only show the best in modern Croatian design and its history, but also through various exhibitions ask key questions about the role of design in society, about design as a process, about the quite unusual values of everyday objects, about the uniqueness of the visual message in wide circulation, and about the potential for achieving an improved, not just a more designed world. And then, with the first year of operation coming to an end, followed by a break from all of those important topics and being totally immersed in the holiday atmosphere with all its religious and secular rectos and versos, the designers were invited to respond to the first contest to design an alternative to the conventional Christmas tree. The result was so fresh, interesting and varied that the Christmas Tree with us became a tradition which is equally enjoyed by designers and the audience, as well as quite a number of the owners of the small batches that have been produced of the best works from past exhibitions. What sense does it make to redesign something that is so unchanging, authentic and given? Actually, the tradition of decorating the tree is not as old a custom as we think, nor is it as set in stone as it seems. While there are many myths about its origin which extend far into the past, the ritual of decorating the Christmas tree became rampant and widespread in the form and meaning similar to what we know today only in the 19th century. It only started in Croatia around 1850, probably due to German influence. For our present expectations of the Christmas feeling, credit also goes to Charles Dickens, as well as to religious traditions. For the current image of icons such as Father Christmas, says an urban legend, a good part of the responsibility goes to the advertising campaign by the producers of a popular soft drink from the 30s of last century. Also, in this century and the last, the entertainment industry

has widely exploited the Christmas and New Year euphoria, but at the same time it has transformed it in many important segments. Marketing and design have played a similarly ambivalent role. However, Christmas Tree with us is not meant to be a generator of the hyperproduction of new trade products that will blend in with countless others, but rather, primarily as an incubator of ideas that gives designers the opportunity to participate in an atmosphere that is already present and should not be ignored, in a creative, critical, confident and unpretentious way; and on a modest, human scale. The items they have produced in the process differ from the staple market supply both in terms of the idea that governs them as well as their aesthetics, but not just as a marketing spin on the already existing patterns which make them different and thus desirable and competitive. In the projects that have been entered in the competition, now already in its third year in a row, the designers have interpreted the usual Christmas and New Year’s paraphernalia, quite often putting them in unusual and unexpected relationships with their forms and meanings. Through intelligent ideas and stories that communicate, or through interactions which potential customers are invited to join, many of them also provide comment to the context in which they were created. The ecological aspect of the first exhibition was highlighted not only in the theme of the competition, but also in the preferred material. Paper was chosen because of the possibility of recycling, the simplicity of production and the minimum funds necessary. Some of the works are meant to be finished by the users themselves, thus developing an affective relationship with the object, but also encouraging their own creativity, which we too often ignore because of succumbing to compulsive spending habits. Sometimes it is enough to have a simple everyday object and the simplest of ideas that will transform it into something else. And this year, from 10 December to 7 January, in the gallery of HDD, young designers and design students, as well as the already renowned authors, will demonstrate their tremendous potential to play, create and communicate, rediscovering there what we have forgotten. The exhibition will inspire someone with its humour, ingenuity and the atmosphere. From the gallery someone will take home a redesigned tree, gift, greeting card or decoration into their new life. The Christmas Tree with us − Christmas Tree Superstore will probably never grow into the ironic metaphor playfully used in the name of the project, but it will certainly continue to develop into a fascinating collection of Croatian product design. n CROATIA AIRLINES

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■ INOVACIJE INNOVATIONS

NAJBRŽI ELEKTRIČNI SUPER AUTOMOBIL NA SVIJETU THE FASTEST ELECTRIC SUPERCAR IN THE WORLD 112

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Na rujanskome poznatome 64. salonu automobila u Frankfurtu predstavljen je luksuzni sportski automobil na struju nazvan Concept One, mladoga hrvatskog inovatora Mate Rimca. Svojim visokim performansama, odnosno brzinom i jaËinom, zasluæio je epitet zvijeri na cesti. Prestiæe benzince, poznate po moguÊoj brzoj voænji, na primjer ferrarija, porschea i bugattija, ali dizajnom, izvedbom i estetikom neosporno je remek-djelo manufakturnog rada. In September, at the prestigious 64th Frankfurt Motor Show, the young Croatian innovator Mate Rimac presented his luxury electric sports car, the so-called Concept One. With its high performance level that is, with its speed and power, it deserves the title Road Beast, which can outrun the gasoline cars that are known for allowing insane driving, for instance, Ferrari, Porsche and Bugatti. Also, in terms of its design, performance and aesthetics it is an undisputed manufacturing masterpiece.

Piše/By Anelka MustapiÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Romeo IbriševiÊ i/and Rimac automobili

rvi svjetski elektriËni hyper-car, koji je izumitelj Mate Rimac nazvao Concept One, bio je najveÊe iznenaenje na meunarodnom autosalonu u Frankfurtu. Okupljao je oko sebe svu moguÊu paænju medija, britanski Sunday Times proglasio ga je automobilom tjedna, i, πto je osobito vaæno, izazivao je oduπevljenje predstavnika najrespektabilnijih autoindustrija na svijetu, od kojih su mu, recimo, BMW i Audi, kao kupci, ponudili konkretnu suradnju. Dva RimËeva automobila veÊ je kupio bogati πeik, a neki iz Arapskih Emirata nude mu se kao investitori, oni koji Êe ulagati, praktiËki kao suvlasnici, na πto je, reËeno usput, Rimac prisiljen. Takvo je stanje bilo kad smo s Rimcem razgovarali nakon zavrπene prezentacije u Frankfurtu i uoËi njegova odlaska u Abu Dhabi na pregovore. Ali, zanimanje za njegov automobil takvo je da se preko noÊi stvari mogu iz temelja promijeniti, pogotovo πto ima ponuda da se sa svojim projektom, odnosno prototipom, preseli nekamo u svijet. ©to se Rimca tiËe, sve su opcije otvorene, iako bi svim srcem æelio 2013. g. proizvodnju poËeti u Hrvatskoj, koja

bi njegovim automobilom dobila prepoznatljiv brand u svijetu. - Uvelike su me u Frankfurtu zaËudili komplimenti proizvoaËa i medija − naglasio je Rimac - tim viπe πto je, recimo, samo πtand Audija stajao kao naπ cijeli projekt puta dvadeset i pet. Primjer spominjem tek toliko da se dobije percepcija o kakvim mi konkurentima govorimo, kakva je i kolika to autoindustrija u kojoj stotine tisuÊa ljudi radi samo na jednom automobilu, za razliku od nas, male tvrtke u kojoj je dvadesetak ljudi napravilo Ëudo. A to nam je otpoËetka bio cilj, da uemo meu velike i, eto, dogodilo se da nas oni traæe, æele da radimo za njih jer su oni usredotoËeni na druge stvari, tj. na masovnu proizvodnju automobila prihvatljivih cijenom, za razliku od naπeg automobila koji je neusporedivo skuplji. ©to to sada znaËi za nas? Mi Êemo raditi svoje automobile po narudæbi, za kupce, a æeli li primjerice, BMW da mu radimo za ograniËenu seriju elektriËnih automobila, slat Êe nam πasiju, a mi Êemo im raditi pogon. Sasvim je logiËno da BMW-u ili nekoj drugoj autoindustriji neÊemo raditi kompletne automobile, kad

oni sami znaju napraviti auto, i to rade izvrsno. Concept One, najbræi cestovni elektriËni automobil na svijetu, nastao je tijekom posljednjih dviju godina u velikoj tajnosti, kao πto se, uostalom, rade i sve druge inovacije diljem svijeta. Izloæen je u prostranom salonu u Svetoj Nedelji, gdje je i nastajao. Ponajprije, kako je to objasnio Rimac, njegov je automobil jednostavan i Ëist, s dominantnim dojmom sportske elegancije, koji je karakteristiËan za klasu ekskluzivnih sportskih automobila. Drugim rijeËima, izaziva umjetniËki doæivljaj, estetiziran je u cjelini i u svakom detalju, do felgi ili samog loga, na primjer. Eksterijer automobila dizajnirao je Adriano Mudri, podrijetlom iz Karlovca, vrlo mladi dizajner koji je veÊ radio, meu ostalima, i za grupu Magna Steyr, a interijer je uredila skupina bivπih dizajnera talijanske tvrtke Pininfarina, koju je predvodio Goran PopoviÊ. Taj tim napravio je tzv. visoko napredni interijer, s akcentom na infotainment sustavu (sedam kamera, Head-up Display, vrlo zanimljiv mehanizam za mekano otvaranje vrata…). U projekt je otpoËetka ukljuËen i inæenjer Zlatko KvoËiÊ, koji je slagao automobil Nike PuliÊa. Concept One teæak je, predoËio je Rimac, 1650 kg, ima 1088 KS, s 3800 Nm okretnog momenta do 100 km/h moæe doÊi za 2,8 sekundi, postiæe 305 km/h i s kapacitetom baterije od 92 kWh moæe prijeÊi 600 km. Prototip Concept Onea rabi Rimac Battery Module (92 kWh), πto je takoer RimËeva inovacija, a radit Êe ih i za druge tvrtke elektriËnih automobila. InaËe, kod elektriËnih automobila jedan od najvaænijih dijelova i, stoga, velikih problema, jest rjeπavanje pohranjivanja energije, tj. baterijskoga pogonskog sustava, a Rimac je oËito u tome zasad postigao maksimum. No radi i dalje na razvoju tzv. paketa baterija, jer to je, kako je rekao, jedno od podruËja gdje se njegova tvrtka namjerava razvijati. RimËev super automobil inovativan je i po straænjim svjetlosnim sklopovima, koji imaju duboki 3D efekt i animirane indikatore. Uza sustav Batrry Module, koji se uvelike svidio velikim autoindustrijama, Rimac i njegov tim razvili su jedinstven pogonski sklop, Ëime su ostvarili sasvim nov pristup dinamici. Sustav, nazvan All Wheel Torque Victoringa, podijeljen je u Ëetiri podsustava, a svaki od njih sastoji se od jednog motora, pretvaraËa struje i reduktora. ReËeno jasnije, svaki kotaË ima svoj pogon i svaki kotaË radi neovisno jedan o drugome. U automobilu je mnogo senzora, a zbog senzora za okretanje automobila, automobil zna kamo vozaË æeli iÊi i usmjerava ga u æeljenom smjeru. Prototip generacije Concept One ostat Êe u trajnom vlasniπtvu Mate Rimca, kao i zeleni BMW M3 na benzinski pogon, popularno CROATIA AIRLINES

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nazvan kockica, koji je, polovni, kupio 1986. i, kako u πali Rimac kaæe, dvije godine stariji od njega. Tim je automobilom vozio drift i track utrke. Jednom takvom prigodom na Grobniku je BMW-u zakazao motor, i to je bio trenutak kad je Rimac rekao: Ovo Êe biti elektriËni automobil! To je, zapravo, poËetak priËe o svjetskom uspjehu 23-godiπnjeg inovatora Mate Rimca, apsolventa poslovne πkole VERN u Zagrebu. PriËa se uklapa u sada veÊ stereotip evolucijskih djela nastalih u garaæi, jer i Rimac je doslovno poËeo πaraﬁti u BMW-u u garaæi obiteljske kuÊe. Prve dijelove za svoj prvi elektriËni automobil kupovao je preko interneta, ali kako ga nisu zadovoljavali, poËeo je sam konstruirati. Malo-pomalo, mijenjajuÊi dio po dio, doπao je do pete generacije trkaÊeg elektriËnog automobila, kojim je oborio pet svjetskih rekorda i danas viπe uopÊe ne sliËi starom BMW-u, tako da je prije dvije godine dobio pravo da se registrira kao proizvoaË elektriËnog trkaÊeg automobila Rimac e-M3. Tada je utemeljio tvrtku Rimac automobili za proizvodnju visoko performansnih elektriËnih automobila, pogona i baterija. Zelena kockica, sada, dakle, e-M3, izloæena je takoer u RimËevu salonu, gdje postoji i radni, odnosno projektni odjeljak, sluæi za iskuπavanje novih stvari i kao RimËev osobni automobil koji Êe ostati u njegovu trajnom vlasniπtvu. Na zidu medalja u RimËevu salonu prve su osvojene joπ dok je bio u elektrotehniËkoj πkoli. Kao maturalni rad konstruirao je Glove, rukavicu koja zamjenjuje tipkovnicu raËunala i miπ, a radi na naËelu meusobnog dodirivanja prstima, s tim da je s raËunalom povezana beæiËnom vezom. Njegov profesor prepoznao je vrijednost te inovacije i poslao ga na razliËita natjecanja inovatora, na kojima je osvojio domaÊe i meunarodne nagrade. Drugi RimËev izum bio je aktivni retrovizor (active mirror system, AMS) kojim se rjeπava, odnosno otklanja problem tzv. mrtvog kuta. Nije rijeË o retrovizoru u pravom smislu rijeËi, o nekakvoj ﬁziËkoj napravi, nego o softverskom rjeπenju, koje je prodao stranoj tvrtki, objasnio je Rimac, naglaπavajuÊi vrlo bitnu stvar: zaπto se orijentirao na proizvodnju trkaÊih, ekskluzivnih hyper automobila: 114

- Danas se u svijetu teæi proizvodnji elektriËnih ili barem hibridnih automobila, to znaËi koji rade na benzinski pogon i na struju, πto znaËajno poskupljuje automobil, ali i πtiti okoliπ. Zbog toga ameriËka vlada, a i neke europske, traæe i potpomaæu upravo takve inovativne projekte. Primjera radi, ameriËka je vlada samo u Tesla Motors investirala 450,000.000 dolara (zbog novog zapoπljavanja i ekologije). Mi u Rimac automobilima ne raËunamo na takvu pomoÊ, iako smo stvorili visokotehnoloπki proizvod po kojemu Hrvatska moæe biti prepoznatljiva u svijetu. Æeljeli smo super automobil dovesti u 21. st., i u tome smo uspjeli. Ali, bili smo svjesni da veÊ ima proizvoaËa benzinskih sportskih automobila, pa smo se odluËili za elektriËne. Drugi je razlog to πto za jeftinije automobile, πto je takoer jedna od svjetskih orijentacija, trebate raditi mnogo automobila da biste neπto zaradili, a za takvu veliku proizvodnju, primjerice, 10.000 vozila, trebate, opet, veliku tvornicu koja stoji oko 500,000.000 eura. Stoga smo se u tvrtki odluËili da radimo jedino ono πto je ekonomski isplativo, a to bi bilo, po naπoj raËunici, 15 do 20 Concept One automobila na godinu. Namjeravamo 2012. godine sagraditi tvornicu, samo joπ ne znamo gdje. Uzor nam je bio talijanski proizvoaË Pagani, Ëiji je kapacitet otprilike toliki kao πto Êe biti naπ. Æelimo postati mala manufaktura, kao πto je spomenuti Pagani ili Koigsegga, i, ako je ikako moguÊe, u Hrvatskoj. Spekulira se da Êe cijena automobila Mate Rimca biti izmeu 700.000 do milijun eura. Za njega osobno njegov prototip nema cijenu. A za kupce je, kao konstruktivan, inovativan duh, poπao oËito od raËunice: manje je viπe! Uz neprestano poboljπavanje i ugraivanje inovacija, jer, na posljetku, ni prototip Concept One u proizvodnji neÊe biti isti kao πto je sada u salonu kao izloæbeni primjerak. Pa i Mate Rimac je od igraËke na bateriju doπao do vlastite konstrukcije najbræega svjetskog automobila na bateriju, πto je samo jedan od primjera da se djeËje igre ne smiju zanemariti. Jer, iz njih katkad nastaju velika djela, kako je to rekao neki ﬁziËar, a Rimac konkretizirao, pa i poosobio, rekavπi: Muπkarci nikada ne odrastaju, samo su igraËke skuplje! n

he world’s ﬁrst electric hyper-car, which the inventor Mate Rimac named Concept One, was the biggest surprise at the international motor show in Frankfurt. It attracted all types of media attention, with the British Sunday Times calling it the car of the week. Particularly important was that it thrilled the most respected representatives of the auto industry in the world, including BMW and Audi, for example, which

made concrete offers of cooperation as customers. Two of Rimac’s cars have already been bought by a wealthy sheik, while some people from the Arab Emirates offered to be investors, who would invest in his company practically as co-owners, which, by the way, is a prospect that Rimac is forced to accept. At least that was the situation when we spoke with Rimac at the end of his presentation in Frankfurt and just before he left for Abu Dhabi to negotiate. However, interest in his car is such that things can change radically overnight, especially in view of the fact that he has already had serious offers to move his project, i.e., his prototype, to another part of the world. As far as Rimac is concerned, all the options are open, even though he would like the production to start in Croatia in 2013, which would mean that Croatia would have a recognizable brand in his car. - I was amazed in Frankfurt by the compliments I received from the producers and the media, and even more so because, for example, Audi’s stand alone cost twenty ﬁve times more than our entire project, said Rimac. I am giving this example just so you have an idea of the kind of competition we are talking about, what the auto industry is like and how big it is, where hundreds of thousands of people work on just one car, as compared to us, a small company where about 20 people have created a miracle. That was our goal from the beginning, to enter the game with the big players. And what happened is that they came looking for us. They want us to work for them because they concentrate on other things, for example, on the mass production of more acceptably priced automobiles than our car which is incomparably more expensive. What does that mean for us now? We will custom make our cars for known buyers, and if, for example, BMW wants us to make a limited series of electric cars, they will send us the chassis and we will build the battery power system. It is totally logical that we will not make the entire automobile for BMW or for any other auto industry because they know how to make cars themselves and they do it well. Concept One, the fastest electric road car in the world, was created over the past two years in secret, as, indeed, any other innovation around the world. It is currently on display in the spacious salon in Sveta Nedelja where it was created. Above all, as Rimac explained, his car is simple and clean, with a dominating impression of sporting elegance, which is typical of this class of exclusive sports cars. In other words, it evokes an artistic experience, highly aestheticized as a whole and in every detail, from the rims to the logo, for example.

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The car’s exterior was created by the very young designer Adriano Mudri, originally from Karlovac, who had already worked for, among others, the Magna Steyr group. The interior of the car was designed by a group of designers who formerly worked at the Italian company Pininfarina, led by Goran PopoviÊ. That team has created the so-called highly advanced interior, with emphasis on the infotainment system (seven cameras, Head-up Display, a very interesting slow door opening mechanism...). The engineer Zlatko KvoËiÊ, who assembled Niko PuliÊ’s car, has also been included in the project from the very beginning. Rimac described the Concept One as weighing 1650 kilograms, having 1,080 horsepower, with 3800 pound-feet of torque it can reach 100km/h in 2.8 seconds, with a top speed of 305 kilometres per hour, and with a battery capacity of 92 kWh on which it can run for 600 km. The Concept One prototype uses the Rimac Battery Module (92kWh), which is also Rimac’s invention, and which he will also make for other electric car companies. Normally, when it comes to electric cars, one of the most important parts and, therefore, a great problem, is energy storage, i.e., the battery power system, and for the time being Rimac has obviously achieved the maximum in that area. However, he continues to work on the development of the so-called battery pack because that is one of the areas where his company intends to develop, said Rimac. Another innovative characteristic of Rimac’s supercar are the rear light systems which have a deep 3-D effect and animated indicators. In addition to the Battery Module System, which the great auto industry is extremely excited about, Rimac and his team have developed a unique powertrain, as an entirely new approach to dynamics. The system, called All Wheel Torque Vectoring, is divided into four sub-systems, and each one of them is made up of one motor, inverter and reduction gearbox. Simply put, each system drives one wheel and each wheel works independently of the others. The car is full of sensors and because of those sensors the car can turn; the car knows where the driver wants to go and points him in the desired direction. The prototype of the Concept One generation will remain the permanent property of Mate Rimac, just like the gasoline powered green BMW M3, popularly called brick, which was bought second hand in 1986, and, as Rimac jokes, is two years older than he is. He drove drift and circuit races with that car. On one of those occasions, at the Grobnik race track, the BMW’s motor stalled, and that was the moment when Rimac said: This will be an

electric car! That was, actually, the start of the story about the world renowned success of the 23 year old innovator Mate Rimac, a graduate of the VERN business school in Zagreb. His is one of the stories that fits perfectly well in what has now become the stereotype of the evolution of work that starts in a garage: Rimac is yet another one of those who literally began to fiddle with a screwdriver on his BMW in his parents’ garage. As he was not satisfied with the first parts that he bought for his first electric car over the internet he began to construct them himself. Little by little, changing part by part, he arrived at the fifth generation of the electric racing car, with which he broke five world records and which today is a far cry from the good old BMW, so much so that two years ago he was granted the right to register as the producer of the electric sports car the Rimac e-M3. At that time he incepted the company Rimac Automobili for producing high performance electric cars, powertrains and batteries. Nowadays, what was once the green brick, and is now the e-M3, is also on display in Rimac’s salon, which also contains a working space and a design room, the area where new things are tried out. It is Rimac’s personal car, which will remain his permanent property. On the wall of medals in Rimac’s salon, you can see that he won his first medals when he was still in the school of electrical engineering. For his final graduation project he constructed the Glove; a glove which replaces the computer keyboard and mouse, and which works based on the principle of touching the fingers together, and it is connected with the computer through a wireless connection. His teacher recognized the value of the innovation and entered him in various competitions for innovators at which he won national and international awards. Another one of Rimac’s inventions was the active mirror system (AMS), which resolved, that is eliminated, the problem of the so-called blind spot. We are not talking about a mirror in the true sense of the word, a physical object of some kind, but rather about a software solution which he sold to a foreign company. When Rimac explained to us why he focused on the production of exclusive racing hyper cars he emphasised one very important thing: - In today’s world there is a tendency toward producing electric or at least hybrid cars, this means cars which operate on gasoline power and electricity, which makes the cars substantially more expensive, but also more environmentally friendly. As a result, the U.S. government, as well as some European countries, is looking for and subsidizing exactly those types of innovative projects. For

example, the U.S. government has invested $450 million in Tesla Motors alone (due to new employment and ecology). We at Rimac Automobili cannot rely on that type of assistance, even though we have created a high technology product for which Croatia can be recognized around the world. We wanted to bring the super car into the 21st century, and we have succeeded in doing so. However, we were aware that there were already manufacturers of gasoline sports cars, and so we decided on electric cars. Another reason is that in order to make a proﬁt by producing cheaper cars, which is also a world trend, you need to have mass production of, for example, 10,000 cars, and for that, again, you need a huge factory which costs about 500 million euro. Therefore, we as a company opted to do what was economically feasible, and that was, according to our calculations, make 15 to 20 Concept One cars a year. We plan to build a factory in 2012, but we still do not know where. Our role model was the Italian producer Pagani, which has a capacity similar to what we will have. We want to be a small manufacturer, just as the already mentioned Pagani or Koenigsegg, and if at all possible, in Croatia. We work fast, but then something we order from somewhere else in the world ends up sitting at customs for ﬁve days. It is speculated that the price of Mate Rimac’s cars will be between 700,000 and one million euro. For him personally, his prototype has no price. And when it comes to his future buyers, as a constructive and innovative spirit, he is obviously governed by the philosophy that less is more! Along with constantly improving and implementing innovation, because, after all, even the Concept One prototype will not be the same car in production as it is now in the salon as a display copy. Mate Rimac himself has evolved from playing with battery-operated toys to the stage where he constructed the world’s fastest batteryoperated car, which just goes to show that you should not ignore children’s games, because great works sometimes develop from them. Or as one physicist said, and Rimac turned into a concrete and very personalized example: Guys never grow up or get old, they just get more expensive toys! n

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■ OBI»AJI CUSTOMS

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Tekst i fotograﬁje/Text and photos Davor Rostuhar

Seljaci meimurskog TurËiπÊa provode zimske dane u dokolici poπto su od proljeÊa do jeseni, sve dane od zore do mraka, provodili u polju. Hladno je, pa se malo druæe. Ali kraj zime i dolazak proljeÊa vrijeme je poklada, vrijeme kad se prirodni red obrÊe naglavce, da bi se mogao ponovno uspostaviti. I druæenje opet poËinje… The villagers of the Meimurje town of TurËiπÊe spend the winter days in leisure, seeing that from spring to autumn they spend every day from sunrise to nightfall in the ﬁelds. It is cold, so they do not socialize much. However, the end of winter and the coming of spring is the period of carnival, a time when the natural order is turned upside down, only to be restored again when carnival is over. And partying starts again!

lodna je zemlja veÊ dugo zamrznuta ispod snijega, ali dani su sve dulji. Sunce u sve viπem luku obasjava bijele ravnice optimizmom novog buenja. Vrijeme je poklada. Maπkori se skupljaju u jutro pokladnog utorka na jedinoj cesti koja prolazi selom. RazliËiti Ëudnovati likovi trljaju ruke da se ugriju, cupkaju u mjestu i zvone, a oko njih skuplja se oblak toplog daha vodene pare. Najbrojniji su nap’hanci − muπkarci odjeveni u lanenu noπnju ispunjenu slamom. Oko struka glomazna su im zvona, oko grudi izvrnuti prsluk od ovËjeg runa, a u rukama æeljezne vile ili metla. Lica su im skrivena neobiËnom vrbenom zoomorfnom maskom lampom: obrazine su nalik na Ëovjeka, ali gubica i rogovi nalik na æivotinju. Ima tu ovnova, svinja, krava, jelena, ptica, roda i raca. Jedan nap’hanac za sobom vuËe prdu − improvizirano glazbalo za stvaranje buke, a druga dvojica uprla su se u plug. Posred sela zaorali su brazdu, da im nova godina bude plodna. Stariji se podsjete kako su prije orali cijeli krug oko sela, ali ta su vremena gotova. Sad cupkaju i skaËu po ulici i ulaze u svaku kuÊu bez kucanja. Gazde ih rado puπtaju u svoj dom, a oni pri ulasku pjevaju pjesmu Tu za repu, tu za len te ËuËnu i kokodaËu da bi pujkice sedele, da bi kvoËke nesle jaja. Gazdarice su taj dan pripremile hranu kojom nude maπkore. Dok su im muæevi rano ujutro cijepali drva za sreÊu u ribolovu, one su zaklale kokota i krvlju prskale dvoriπte da bi zaπtitile svoju perad od svih nedaÊa. Osim hrane, tu je i obvezatni πpricer, koji maπkori ne propuπtaju. Povorka uz velik meteæ i graju baulja od kuÊe

do kuÊe, a iza nje neki likovi kroËe πutke. Mnogo je parova odjevenih u dronjke, koji na glavi imaju antropomorfne maske lafre. Ti se babe i dedovi ponaπaju razvratno, pipaju se nasred ulice, skaËu jedni po drugima i navlaËe se oponaπajuÊi koitus. Tu je i dupli ded − lik u kojem su od puno slame i muπke i æenske odjeÊe sastavljeni i baba i ded. No, jedan par priliËno zaostaje za povorkom i πutke se kreÊe ulicom. Ciganova lafra ima brkove i bradu, a ciganica u naruËju nosi lutku slamnatog djetenca. Laganim korakom obilaze selo, ne obaziru se ni na koga, ne razgovaraju, samo se zagledaju u kuÊe gdje ukuÊani oËekuju poroaj. Joπ jedan usamljeni lik kroËi πutke selom. Lafra smrt zaogrnuta u bijelu plahtu, s kôsom u lijevoj ruci, zalazi u pojedine kuÊe, niπta ne govori i ne prima darove. Potkraj dana povorka zastaje uz rijeku Trnavu. Diæe vjeπala, galge, koja su dva nap’hanca cijeloga dana vukla kroz selo. UpriliËe suenje ciganu te ga ismijavaju i podvrgavaju ruglu. Sudac maskiran u graansko ruho optuæuje cigana da je Ëmelce vkral i presuuje mu smrt vjeπanjem. Ciganka s kolijevkom u krilu riËe od bola, na πto cigan koristi trenutak pomutnje, bjeæi i nestaje iza prve staje. Za njim pohitaju Ëetiri maπkora, uhvate ga i vrate se natrag sa slamnatom lutkom sliËnom ciganu. Vjeπaju je, a zatim utapaju u rijeci Trnavi. Poklade su gotove, red obnovljen, a ljudi se vraÊaju svojim kuÊama grijanima na peÊ i osvijetljenima uljanicama. Godina je 1956., kad u TurËiπÊe dolazi struja, a s njom i televizori. Godina kad je pokladne obiËaje prvi put s CROATIA AIRLINES

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osobitim zanimanjem promatrao netko izvana − etnolozi. Opisali su obiËaje, pokupovali drvene maske za Etnografski muzej u Zagrebu i zakljuËili da je pokladno preruπavanje uz upotrebu drvenih maski odræano u cjelini jedino u TurËiπÊu. Pola stoljeÊa poslije, na pokladnu subotu, asfaltiranom cestom prolaze automobili, a ljudi se okupljaju u zadruænom domu. Od jutra piju πpricer. - Nejdemo nikam dok se ne poËme ljuljat! − zavija mlai maπkor, a svi se krevelje u smijehu. - Nekad su poklade bile svetek, tak veli moj stari - kaæe tridesetËetverogodiπnji Danijel Novak, koji je 30 godina staru lafru cigana preuzeo od oca, ali viπe ne moæe ludovati zbog bolova u kraljeænici, pa ju je posudio drugomu mladiÊu. - Vezd su se gastarbajteri vraÊali zvana da bi bili tu barem od subote do vtorka. A i ljudi kaj su tu bili sam su tak dobili dopust! Sad to tak viπe nejde. Nemreπ sam tak otiÊ na vtorek van s posla! Malo-pomalo skupljaju se i drugi maπkori. Dvadesetak ljudi kreÊe u povorku selom. VeÊina je sakrivena zoomorfnim lampama, ali tu je i par samih ciganica s dojenËadi, poluzamaskirana lafra smrt i nekoliko novih, tradicijski nepoznatih likova. Nema duplog deda, nema pluga, ne pjeva se pjesma Tu za repu, tu za len. Povorka baulja, galami i zvoni, a obijesni maπkori zaustavljaju promet i otvaraju vrata nepoznatih automobila. Ne ulaze u kuÊe, ali na ulici ih Ëekaju gazde s demiæonkama πpricera. Zastanu, skinu masku, porazgovaraju s gazdom, popiju i kreÊu dalje. U kuÊe ulaze joπ samo djeca, koja se i dalje s istim poletom igraju maπkara, samo πto im je draæe preruπavati se u klaune i princeze. Na kraju vraÊaju se u zadruæni dom. Ondje se ljudima vraÊa krv u lice. Jedu grah s kobasicom i krafne, pleπu na zvuke s pozornice. Bend svira KlinËek stoji pod oblokom, zatim Mamica su πtrukle pekli. ©to zabava dalje odmiËe, ljudi sa sebe polako skidaju dijelove pokladnog ruha. Zabava se rasplamsava i traje do kasno u noÊ. Mnogo se toga izgubilo od prvotnog znaËenja u turËiπkim pokladama. Etnolozi kaæu da je karneval odreen vremenom i druπtvenim okolnostima, pa isti elementi u razliËitim povijesnim trenucima poprimaju razliËita znaËenja. Neki elementi poprime potpuno nova znaËenja, ali i dalje u sebi nose tragove davno zaboravljenih poruka, kojih se danaπnji sudionici viπe ne sjeÊaju. Jedan su od najstarijih i najatraktivnijih takvih elemenata turËiπkih poklada antropomorfne maske lafre i zoomorfne maske lampe. 118

»ovjek se koristio maskama joπ u kamenom dobu kako bi se zaπtitio od demona ili identiﬁcirao s lovinom. Poljodjelci su zastirali lica maskama u vrijeme zimske nove godine, kad se magijskim Ëinima trebala osigurati plodnost u tekuÊoj godini. Zato su se maskama u TurËiπÊu dodavali razliËiti elementi plodnosti, poput rogova, gubice i uπiju. Osim osiguravanja plodnosti, maske su sluæile i u svrhu odbijanja zlih sila, kao i zvonjava te sva buka i meteæ koju su prilikom pokladnih obreda stvarali. Podloga tih obiËaja bio je strah od svih zala koje donosi zima, neplodnosti, hladnoÊe, bolesti, gladi, vukova i divljih zvijeri, strah od svega πto donose zli dusi i demoni, koje obredom treba uplaπiti i otjerati. Iako porijeklo poklada sigurno seæe mnogo dalje, etnolozi ga lako mogu pratiti do rimskog doba. - Raπirenost pokladnih obiËaja poklapa se s granicama Rimskog Carstva, a kolonizacijom su otiπli i u Ameriku. Mnogi teoretiËari povezuju naπe poklade s praslavenskim elementima kojima se evociraju duhovi pokojnika i poganskih novogodiπnjih svetkovina. Elementi poganske nove godine mogu se naÊi i u BoæiÊu i u Uskrsu. Onaj korpus koji je bio prelascivan crkva je smjestila u taj svjetovni praznik poklada - napominje etnologinja Nevena ©krbiÊ, profesorica na Filozofskom fakultetu u Zagrebu. Poklade imaju razliËite dimenzije, a naπ priznati folklorist Ivan Lozica, predstojnik Instituta za etnologiku i folkloristiku u Zagrebu, upozorio je na tri najbitnije, koje se sve mogu povezati s pradavnim rimskim svetkovinama. KritiËki trenutak druπtva dogaao se u saturnalijama, kad se za kratko vrijeme obrnutog reda dopuπtala nekaænjena kritika druπtvenog poretka. Tada se birao laæni kralj karnevala, koji je vladao za vrijeme sveËanosti. On se na kraju ærtvovao kako bi se ciklus vlasti povezao s ciklusom prirode i njezinim vjeËnim obnavljanjem. Luperkalije su druga rimska sveËanost znaËajna za karneval. Tim starim pastirskim obiËajem naglaπavala su se magijska svojstva, odnos Ëovjeka prema prirodi, pri Ëemu je Ëovjek nastojao odreenim postupcima izazvati rodnost i plodnost. TreÊa i najjasnija dimenzija karnevala povezuje se s bakanalijama − gozbama u kojima se slavilo piÊe, seksualne slobode i raspojasano veselje. Sve su te dimenzije karnevala, osim posljednje, gotovo posve nestale iz pokladnih obiËaja u Meimurju. Ali, dr. Lozica zakljuËio je da traganje za porijeklom karnevala nije istodobno i traganje za njegovom biti. Njegova kolegica dr. Maja PovrzanoviÊ Frykman, koja danas radi na SveuËiliπtu u Malmöu, prouËavala je turËiπke pokladne obiËaje sredinom osamde-

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setih godina 20. stoljeÊa, te njihove promjene u odnosu na vanjski svijet. S dolaskom televizora u TurËiπÊe ljudi su postajali sve svjesniji velikoga vanjskog svijeta, a nekoliko su puta postali i sami sudionici toga televizijskog programa. Dokumentarni ﬁlmovi koji su snimljeni o njima 1968. i 1984. godine prikazani su na televiziji i izazvali burne reakcije i salve oduπevljenja meu mjeπtanima TurËiπÊa. Osim toga, poËeli su nastupati i izvan svog sela, na smotrama folklora u Zagrebu, na pokladnim sveËanostima u »akovcu, Varaædinu, Ptuju, maarskome Mohácsu… - Gotovo je sigurno da pokladnih obiËaja u selu ne bi bilo u danaπnjem obliku i intenzitetu te da za selo kao zajednicu ne bi imali danaπnja znaËenja kad istodobno ne bi æivjeli izvan sela i kad za vanjski svijet ne bi znaËili vrijednost ili barem zanimljivost - kaæe dr. PovrzanoviÊ Frykman. - TurËiπÊani su svojom kulturnom speciﬁËnoπÊu uspjeli uÊi u njima vanjsko masovno druπtvo i postati tvorbenim elementom, malenim ali jedinstvenim, njegova kulturnog mozaika - nastavlja dr. PovrzanoviÊ Frykman te zakljuËuje da su poklade za TurËiπÊane danas stijeg kulturnog identiteta kojim se æeli izboriti priznanje osobnosti, prisutnosti i vrijednosti seoske zajednice u svijetu πto je okruæuje i nameÊe joj vlastitu kulturu. Tako TurËiπÊani zadovoljavaju opÊu potrebu za druπtvenim samoodreenjem. No, tako se zadovoljava i nova potreba za prepoznavanjem svoga mjesta u globalnome druπtvenom kontekstu. - Nebu to nigdar vmrlo - kaæe maπkor Antun Jakunlija, dok promatramo kako se maπkori iz TurËiπÊa mijeπaju s pucama iz drugih sela i lascivno pleπu na meimursku glazbu. Ruke im lete tamo gdje inaËe ne bi smjele, ali danas su poklade i danas se πtoπta dopuπta. Za drugim stolom sjedi Slavica Ævorc, a njezin sedmogodiπnji sin Matija dræi malu lafru u ruci i promatra velike deËke kako pleπu. Pitam mještanku zar mu nije draæe biti klaun kao drugim njegovim vrπnjacima. - Je, ne znam − odgovara. - Ove godine je rekel da bi πtel bit nap’hanec. n

he fertile land has been frozen beneath the snow for a long time already, but the days are longer and longer. As the sun gets higher and higher it shines on the white plains with the optimism of a new awakening. It’s carnival time.The masqueraders gather in the morning of Shrove Tuesday on the only road that passes through the village. The various strange characters rub their hands together to warm themselves, they run in place and ring, and around them a cloud of steamy warm breath develops. The most 120

common are the nap’hanac − men dressed in linen costumes filled with straw. Around their waists are bulky bells, around their chests are vests made of sheep’s wool, and in their hands are iron pitchforks or brooms. Their faces are hidden by an unusual zoomorphic mask made of willow wood and called a lampa: the entire masks are similar to humans, but they have a snout and horns like an animal. There are all sorts: rams, pigs, cows, deer, birds, storks and ducks. One nap’hanac pulls a prda − an improvised musical instrument intended to make noise, and the other two drag a plough. In the middle of the village they plough a furrow, to make sure their new year would be fruitful. The older villagers remember how they used to plough a complete circle around the village, but those times are long gone. Now they hop and jump around the street and enter every house without knocking. The owners of the houses would gladly let them into their homes, but before entering they sing a song: Grab the turnip, grab the flax and then they squat and cackle so that the hens will sit and lay eggs. The women of the houses prepare food to offer the masqueraders on that day. While their husbands go out early in the morning to chop wood for luck in fishing, they slaughter a rooster and splatter the blood around the courtyard to protect their poultry from all misfortunes. Besides the food, there are the obligatory wine spritzers, which the masqueraders do not pass up. The procession, with huge confusion and noise, staggers from house to house, followed by some characters moving around in silence. Many of the couples are dressed in rags, and on their heads they wear anthropomorphic masks called lafra. These babes and dedovi (old ladies and men) behave lecherously, touching each other in the middle of the street, jumping on each other and imitating coitus. There is a dupli-ded - a character made from a lot of straw and men’s and women’s clothing which is put together to make both a baba and ded (grandmother and grandfather) under one mask. However, one couple basically lags rather far behind the rest of the procession and silently moves down the street. The gypsy’s lafra has a moustache and a beard, and the female gypsy carries a straw baby doll. They walk around the village at a slow pace, not paying attention to anyone else, not talking, only looking at the houses where the households are expecting a birth. Another lone figure walks silently through the village. The lafra smrt (mask of death) is wrapped in a white sheet and carries a scythe in his left hand. He enters

some houses, but says nothing and does not receive gifts. At the end of the day the procession stops along the Trnava River. They erect the gallows, galge, which two nap’hanac masks had dragged through the village all day. They arrange the trial of the gypsy, while they laugh and ridicule him. The judge, masked in civilian clothes, accuses the gypsy that he had stolen beehives and he is sentenced to death by hanging. A female gypsy, with a cradle in her lap, roars in pain; the male gypsy mask meanwhile benefits from the commotion; he escapes and disappears behind the nearest cowshed. Four masqueraders rush after him, catch him and return him with the gypsy-like straw doll. They hang the doll and then drown it in the Trnava River. Carnival is over, order is restored, and people return to their homes which are heated by fireplaces and lit with oil lamps. The year is 1956, when electricity came to TurËiπÊe and with it came televisions. That was the year when the carnival tradition, for the first time, was watched with special interest by people from outside − ethnologists. They described the customs, bought the wooden masks for the Ethnographic Museum in Zagreb, and concluded that carnival disguises using wooden masks were fully preserved only in TurËiπÊe. Half a century later, on Shrove Saturday, cars pass on the paved road and people gather in the village hall. They drink wine spritzers from early morning. We are not going anywhere until everything starts spinning! shouts the young masqueraders, and everyone grimaces and laughs. - At one time the carnival festivities were a holiday, that’s what my old man says, said thirty four year old Danijel Novak, who took over the 30 year old gypsy lafra from his father, but since he can no longer enjoy the craziness because of pain in his spine, he lent it to another young man. - Folks who work abroad would always come home to be here at least from Saturday to Tuesday. And those who work here could get a day off just like that. That is impossible to do now. You cannot just leave work to be here on Tuesday! Little by little other masqueraders begin to gather. About twenty people start the procession in the village. Most of them are hidden by zoomorphic lampas, but there are also a few of the lone gypsy women with babies, the half-masked lafra smrt and a few new characters that are not part of the tradition. There is no dupli-ded, no ploughing, no singing the song Grab the turnip, grab the flax. The procession staggers and flails, shouting and

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ringing, and the wanton masqueraders stop trafﬁc and open the doors of strangers’ cars. They do not enter the houses, but the owners wait for them on the street with the demijohns ﬁlled with wine spritzers. They stop, take off their masks, talk with the owners, drink and move on. Only children enter the houses and continue to play with the masks with the same enthusiasm, except that nowadays they prefer to be dressed up as clowns and princesses. Afterwards they return to the village hall. There the blood returns to the people’s cold faces. They eat beans with sausage, as well as doughnuts, dancing to the sounds coming from the stage. The band plays A Carnation Stands Below the Window and then Granny Baked Strukli (a savoury pastry dish with

cheese). As the fun goes on, people slowly start to take off their carnival costumes. The entertainment gains momentum and lasts until late into the night. A lot has been lost of the original meaning of the TurËiπÊe carnival. Ethnologists say that carnival is determined by time and social circumstances, and the same elements in different historical moments take on different meanings. Some elements take on entirely new meanings, but still carry the traces of long-forgotten messages, which today’s participants no longer remember. One of the oldest and most attractive of these elements of the TurËiπÊe carnival is the anthropomorphic masks lafra and the zoomorphic masks lampa.

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Man used masks already in the Stone Age to protect against demons or identify with prey. Farmers covered their faces with masks during the time of the winter New Year, when fertility in the upcoming year had to be ensured with magical spells. That is why the masks in TurËiπÊe add various elements of fertility, such as horns, snouts and ears. Besides ensuring fertility, the masks were used in order to thwart evil powers, as were all the bells and noise and commotion that were created during the carnival rituals. The basis of these practices was the fear of all the evils that brought winter infertility, coldness, disease, hunger, wolves and wild beasts; fear of anything that was brought by evil spirits and demons, which you had to frighten and send away with rituals. Although the origin of carnival certainly goes back much further, ethnologists can easily trace it back to Roman times. - The distribution of the carnival customs coincides with the borders of the Roman Empire, and with colonization they reached America. Many theorists associate our carnival with the pre-Slavic elements that evoke the spirits of the deceased and the pagan New Year festivities. Elements of the pagan New Year can also be found in Christmas and Easter. The church moved into a secular festivity, carnival, all those parts which were too lascivious to exist in any of the religious holidays, noted the ethnologist Nevena ©krbiÊ, professor at the Faculty of Philosophy in Zagreb. Carnivals have different facets, and our prominent folklorist Ivan Lozica, head of the Institute for Ethnology and Folklore Research in Zagreb, points out the three most important ones, which can all be linked to the ancient Roman feasts. The critical moment in society happened during the Saturnalia, when for a short time roles in society were reversed and people could go unpunished for criticising social order. A false king, the king of carnival, was elected to reign during the ceremony. He was eventually sacriﬁced so that the cycle of power was connected with the cycle of nature and its eternal renewal. The Roman Lupercalia is another ceremony of some importance for the modern-day carnival. The old shepherds’ custom stressed magical properties, the relationship of man with nature, where man created certain procedures to bring about fecundity and fertility. The third and the clearest facet of carnival is associated with Bacchanalia − a feast that celebrated drinking, sexual freedom and unbridled joy. All of those facets of carnival, except the last one, have almost completely disappeared from the carnival traditions in Meimurje. 122

However, Dr. Lozica has concluded that the search for the origin of carnival is also a quest for its very essence. His colleague, Dr. Maja PovrzanoviÊ Frykman, who now works at the University of Malmö, studied the TurËiπÊe carnival customs in the mideighties of the 20th century, and the changes they underwent under the influence of the outside world. With the advent of television in TurËiπÊe, people became increasingly aware of the great outside world, and on several occasions, they themselves were participants in those television programs. The documentary films that were made about them and shown on television in 1968 and 1984 caused a boisterous reaction and salves of delight among the locals in TurËiπÊe. In addition, they began to perform outside their village, at the Folklore Festival in Zagreb, the carnival festivities in »akovec, Varaædin, Ptuj, Hungarian Mohács... - It is almost certain that the carnival tradition in the village would not exist in its present form and at its present level of intensity, and that for the village as a community, it would not have today’s meaning if at the same time it did not live outside the village and if the outside world did not rate it or at least find it interesting, said Dr. PovrzanoviÊ Frykman. - The people of TurËiπÊe, with their cultural specificity, have succeeded to enter into the outside mass society and become a formative element, albeit small but certainly unique of its cultural mosaic, continues Dr. PovrzanoviÊ Frykman, who concludes that for the people of TurËiπÊe today’s carnival is the standard of cultural identity with which they want to gain recognition for the individual character, presence and value of the rural community in the world which surrounds it and imposes its own culture on it. This is how the locals of TurËiπÊe satisfy the general need for social self-determination. At the same time, this is the way to satisfy the new need for recognition of one’s position in the global social context. - This will never die out, says masquerader Antun Jakunlija, while we observe how the masqueraders from TurËiπÊe mix with the lassies from the other villages and dance lasciviously to music from Meimurje. Their hands fly where they normally should not, but today is carnival and today much is allowed. At another table sits Mrs. Slavica Ævorc and her seven year old son Matija holding a small lafra in his hand and observing the big boys dance. I ask Mrs. Ævorc if Matija would not have been happier being a clown like some of his peers. - I don’t know. This year he said he wanted to be a nap’hanac, she answered. n

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■ GASTRONOMIJA GASTRONOMY

Piše/By Jasmina StošiÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos –ore StošiÊ

Svratite li u motovunsku πumu, gustu i vlaænu, gdje se zrake sunca teπko probijaju kroz liπÊe prekriveno rosom, a svaki korak, osim pucketanja granja, proizvodi zvuk, Ëinit Êe vam se kao da se ondje dogaa neπto tajanstveno. Govori se da su neki vidjeli diva kako se probija kroz gusto granje visokih stabala, kao da traæi kraljeve divljih gljiva − tartufe. Pay a visit to the thick and damp forests of Motovun, where the sun’s rays have difﬁculty breaking through the leaves covered with dew. Each step is accompanied by the crackling of branches, but there are also other sounds that imply some mysterious goings on below. They say that some people have seen the giant as he breaks through the thick branches of the tall trees, seemingly searching for the king of all wild mushrooms! Trufﬂes!

zmeu mediteranskih plaæa na obali i planine UËke, duboko uronjena u more, svima znana modra i bistra, a magiËno zelena, skrivena u svojoj unutraπnjosti − nalazi se naπa Istra. Pozivamo vas na povratak prirodi, u potragu za vlastitim mirom i tiπinom, na susret sa sobom upravo u tu zelenu, bliæe srcu, Istru koja na breæuljkastim uzviπenjima krije srednjovjekovne gradiÊe, stare kaπtele obrasle u brπljan, πto pripadaju nekim drugim vremenima, bajkovitima i punima Ëarolije. 124

U jednome od njih, Motovunu, æivi div Veli Joæe. Moæda je previπe godina proπlo otkad je bio dio obvezatne πkolske lektire, moæda smo zaboravili kako nas je Vladimir Nazor s naglaπenom lirskom poantom odveo u svijet istarske proπlosti. A moæda nije kasno da barem nakratko dopustimo da nas zavede Ëarobnica Istra, da bajku pretvori u stvarnost. Dovoljno je da svratite u motovunsku πumu. Gustu i vlaænu. Ondje gdje se zrake sunca teπko probijaju

kroz liπÊe prekriveno rosom, a svaki korak, osim pucketanja granja, proizvodi zvuk i izaziva osjeÊaj kao da se pod njim dogaa neπto tajanstveno. Govori se da su neki vidjeli diva kako se probija kroz gusto granje visokih stabala i Ëinilo im se kao da neπto traæi. Katkad bi u njegovim velikim rukama vidjeli neπto kuglasta oblika, blijedoæute ili pak crne boje, veliËine jabuke, po kojoj su (nimalo dopadljivo) piramidaste ili spljoπtene bradavice. Gomolji koje je dræao u ruci ostavljali su snaæan, karakteristiËan miris (mnogima neugodan), a opet nekako primamljiv, zavodljiv, opojan i neobiËan... Ubrzo su shvatili da je div zapravo brao gljive, no ne bilo koje, nego one koje bi bile i dostojne nekog diva. Kraljeve divljih gljiva! Tartufe! Gljive gomoljaËe, da budemo botaniËki precizni. Ostavimo malo naπeg diva po strani (navodno je baπ on kumovao pronalasku najveÊeg tartufa na svijetu, teπkoga 1,3 kilograma, no u Guinnessovoj knjizi rekorda to su zaboravili napomenuti) da bismo malo prouËili te osobite gljive. Danas u svijetu postoje 63 vrste gljiva klasiﬁciranih kao tuber. Samo je 9 od 25 vrsta jestivo, a u prodaji najËeπÊe se nalaze Ëetiri vrste. Tuber Magnatum Pico (plemeniti bijeli tartuf) moguÊe je pronaÊi tek u kasno ljeto, jesen i u poËetku zime, a zbog speciﬁËnosti okusa i mirisa cijenjen je u cijelom svijetu i proglaπen kulinarskim kraljem. Konzumira se, dakako, sirov. Tuber Melanosporum Vittadini (plemeniti crni tartuf) skuplja se tijekom cijele zime, a osobito u prvim mjesecima u godini. Francuzi ga

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svojataju i smatraju najboljim i stoga najcjenjenijim meu crnim tartuﬁma. Tuber Aestivum Vittadini (ljetni tartuf) jedan je od najËeπÊih crnih tartufa koji je moguÊe pronaÊi tijekom cijele godine, i to u velikim koliËinama, u podnoæju hrasta, ljeπnjaka, topola, bukvi i borova. Na kraju: Tuber Brumale Vittadini (zimski tartuf) moæe se pronaÊi u jesen i u poËetku zime, a Ëesto ga se zamjenjuje s cijenjenim Mellasporumom, iako mirisom ni pribliæno ne mogu dostiÊi slavnog Francuza. Crno-bijelo, ljeto-zima, sve same suprotnosti, πto i ne Ëudi, jer i konzumente moæe podijeliti na one koji su njime oduπevljeni, gotovo ovisni, i na one koji su ga kuπali samo jedanput, i nikad viπe. Na tanjuru ga ima siromaπni istarski seljak iz okolice Buzeta i Motovuna, kao i okrunjena glava u svojem kraljevskom dvoru. »ak je i Marija Terezija na putu iz Trsta u BeË svraÊala u male Livade podno Motovuna na porciju delicije, a od 1815. godine tartuﬁ se nalaze na jelovniku BeËkog kongresa. Spomenute Livade, mjestaπce dobro skriveno i πtiÊeno gustim πumama doline rijeke Mirne, gledano budnim okom diva iz Motovuna, prijestolnica su tartufa, a Restoran-Enoteka Zigante njezini kraljevski dvori. ©arm osoblja kao i topao osmijeh vlasnika ugledne titule pronalazaËa najveÊeg tartufa na svijetu, Giancarla Zigantea, na to mjesto prizivat Êe vas iznova i iznova sve dok ne priznate da ste ovisnik ne samo o delikatesi, nego i o naËinu prezentacije kakva je samo u tom restoranu. Restoran posluæuje samo svjeæe tartufe, i to onako kako nalaæe sezona vaenja. Njihove beskrajno estetski sloæene tanjure karakterizira neskromna koliËina tartufa, ne ribanih, nego rezanih na tanke kriπkice, tako da poznavatelj toËno zna koja je vrsta posrijedi. U ambijentu kamena, kovanog æeljeza u obliku vinove loze, glasovitog MurtiÊa po zidovima, uza svjetlost svijeÊa i biranu glazbu, nije se teπko posve prepustiti u ruke osoblja koje bi poæelio svaki vrhunski restoran. Bez obzira na to jedete li janjeÊe kotlete s bijelim tartufom, domaÊe fuæe (vrsta tjestenine) ili samo umuÊena jaja s crnim, znajte da je u svakoj kombinaciji zvijezda upravo gljiva i ne treba joj mnogo ukrasa, dodataka, skupocjenih namirnica, kavijara, jastoga… Bogat, zemljan okus tartufa oplemenjuje razliËita jela, a nadahnuÊe je mnogih gurmanskih ostvarenja. Sladoled od tartufa jedno je takvo, gotovo remek-djelo, spajanja nespojivoga. Te gurmanske gljive, nuæne u otmjenoj kuhinji (houte cuisine), prati glas sredstva za jaËanje ili pobuivanje libida, πto zapravo nema znanstveno uporiπte. No, jedno je sigurno: novac 126

je moÊan afrodizijak, a astronomska cijena (i do 4000 eura za kilogram) jamËi malo, slatko, kratko i rijetko zadovoljstvo. No neka je on nama uzdignut na pijedestal blagoslovljenog afrodizijaka i neka ostane i dalje jedan od udarnih hrvatskih gastronomskih aduta. Iako je u svijetu crni tartuf u prvom redu poznat pod nazivom Truffe de Perigord i Francuska dræi monopol, a Talijani svoje zovu Tartufo Nero Pregiato (cijenjeni crni tartuf), u promidæbenoj i poslovnoj terminologiji za tartufe koji uspijevaju u Istri trebalo bi uvijek upotrebljavati naziv istarski, kao πto Ëine Talijani i Francuzi za svoje tartufe. Taj podzemni gospodin ima personality, tajanstven je, apsolutno nedokuËiv i nimalo jednostavan. KlasiËan i suvremen istodobno... Zavoljeti ga znaËi imati hrabrosti, usuditi se, a zatim beskrajno uæivati, jer moæe se reÊi: Uæivati u tartufu znaËi imati stila! Zlatni zalogaj Ma gdje se u Hrvatskoj naπao znatiæeljnik, poznavatelj ili samo uæivatelj dobre kuhinje, slasnog zalogaja, zanimljivog recepta…. postaje zaljubljenik - jer, na izvrsnome je mjestu. Mediteranska Hrvatska carstvo je lagane hrane okupane tekuÊim zlatom maslinova ulja. Takoer, podruËje s okusom creske janjetine, paπkog sira, kvarnerskih πkampa, stonskih kamenica, dalmatinskih riba, istarskih tartufa… U kontinentalnom dijelu nema onoga tko neÊe polizati prste nakon slavonskog kulena, zagorske purice s mlincima, baranjskog fiπ paprikaπa, gorskokotarske divljaËi… Nekima Êe ti zlatni zalogaji biti priruËnik za pripremanje jela, neke Êe podsjetiti na djetinjstvo i iskonske okuse, nekima smjernica prema novim-starim gastro trendovima… a ono πto nije zapisano, neki sastojak po vaπem ukusu, dodat Êete sami. Vjeπtina pripremanja i bogatstvo kombinacija proizaπlih iz vaπe maπte vaπemu Êe æivotu podariti neku novu dimenziju i zadovoljstvo za stolom. Dobar tek! UzlijeÊemo s tartufom, ali ne bilo kojim, nego bijelim. To je ponos istarskih πuma, conditio sine qua non svih boljih restorana, gastro exclusive i san svakoga gurmana odnosno πefa kuhinje u Ëijim Êe rukama njegov bogat, zemljan okus, kao dio maπtovite kombinacije, oplemeniti razliËita jela. Zavodljiva snaga bijelog tartufa na janjeÊem kotletu, s domaÊom pastom, carpacciom od ribe ili mesa, filetom brancina, uza svjeæu tunu ili u svjeæemu kravljem siru, u svakoj kombinaciji naglaπava raskoπnost i profinjenost. Predjelo, glavno jelo, salata... ali i deserti, s bijelim tartufom postaju dio ugledne hrvatske

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Fly to Dubrovnik

tel: +385 20 773 333, fax: +385 20 773 322 e-mail: info@airport-dubrovnik.hr, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr

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kulinarske baπtine, a Istra i njezina zemlja turistiËko top odrediπte na svjetskoj karti zakopana blaga! Morska delicija (Restoran Zigante−Livade) Pripremite: filet brancina (100 g), filet tune (100 g), filet repa grdobine (100 g), zaËine po æelji, kapare po æelji, riblji temeljac (2 dl), korjenasto povrÊe (200 g), tartuf bijeli (10 g), maslac od tartufa (20 g) Ovaj doæivljaj na tanjuru zahtijeva strpljenje, dobru pripremu i nabavu svih potrebnih sastojaka. Æelite li zaista uæivati, onda prije svega treba nabaviti dobar crni tartuf. MoguÊnosti su raznolike. Najlakπe je otiÊi u jednu od trgovina i kupiti Zigante tartuf u boËici. Varijanta koja se meni najviπe svia jest otiÊi u Livade kraj Motovuna i izabrati dobar svjeæi, jutroπnji, mirisni crni tartuf, koji sada caruje. Ribu nabavite ili kod ribara ili u ribarnici, dakako s nekim vama dragim, da moæete popiti poneko piÊe kao zagrijavanje za predstojeÊu akciju. OËiπÊeni file brancina napunite mrkvom i tikvicom, zavijte ga pa vakumirajte. Korjenasto povrÊe skuhajte u kipuÊoj vodi, procijedite te provrtite u tavi s maslacom od tartufa. Riblji temeljac zgusnite malo duljim kuhanjem da dobijete gustu emulziju. File kuhajte u kipuÊoj vodi nekoliko minuta. U zagrijanoj tavi samo nekoliko minuta zapecite file grdobine i tune. Dok su topli, blago ih pomilujte solju, paprom i maslinovim uljem. Slaæite ih na tanjur, a iz vakumirane vreÊice paæljivo izvadite brancina sa svim bogatstvom mirisa i okusa. Dodajte korjenasto povrÊe i preko brancina prelijte umak od ribljeg temeljca i, dakako, na kraju onaj lijepi bijeli tartuf naribajte preko svega. Ovaj tanjur radi se brzo, ali u njemu se uæiva sporo, sporo, sporo… n

etween the Mediterranean beaches on the coast and UËka Mountain, deeply immersed in the sea, there lies our Istria; known to all, blue and clear, magically green, hidden inland. We invite you to return to nature in search of your own peace and quiet; ﬁnd the opportunity to meet yourself here in this greenery, closer to the heart; come to Istria, whose rolling hills hide medieval towns, ancient castles covered in ivy, ediﬁces that belong to some other time, full of fairy tales and magic. In one of them, Motovun, lives the giant Veli Joæe (Big Joe). Perhaps too many years have passed from when the tale of Veli Joæe was part of the mandatory school reading, and perhaps we forgot how the poet Vladimir Nazor used the legend to take us back to the world of the Istrian past on the wings of his lyric.

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Yet again, it may not be too late to be seduced, albeit briefly, by the sorceress that is Istria; perhaps a fairy tale can be made real. It is enough to pay a visit to the thick and damp forests of Motovun, where the sun’s rays have difficulty breaking through the leaves covered with dew. Each step is accompanied by the crackling of branches, but there are also other sounds that imply some mysterious goings on below. They say that some people have seen the giant as he breaks through the thick branches of the tall trees, seemingly searching for something. Sometimes in his big hands they would see some round object, pale yellow or even black in colour and the size of an apple, on which there are (not at all attractive) pyramidal or flat warts. The bulbs which he holds in his hands leave behind a powerful and distinctive odour (unpleasant to many), and yet, somehow alluring, seductive, intoxicating and unusual. They soon understood that the giant was actually picking mushrooms. Not just any kind, but those that are worthy of a giant. The king of all wild mushrooms! Truffles! These are mushrooms of the Tuber genus, to be botanically precise. Let us leave our giant for a bit (allegedly, he takes the credit for the discovery of the largest truffle in the world, weighing 1.3 kilograms, which they forgot to mention in the Guinness Book of World Records) so we can learn a bit about these special mushrooms. Currently in the world there exist 63 types of mushrooms which are classified as Tuber. Only 9 out of 25 types are edible, while only 4 types are most commonly commercially available. The Tuber Magnatum Pico (precious white truffle) can be found only in late summer, autumn and at the beginning of winter, and because of its specific taste and smell it is highly esteemed around the world and has been declared the culinary king. It is eaten raw, of course. The Tuber Melanosporum Vittadini (precious black truffle), which is gathered throughout the entire winter, especially in the first months of the year, the French have adopted as their own and consider it to be the best and therefore the most valuable among black truffles. The Tuber Aestivum Vittadini (summer truffle) is one of the most common black truffles which can be found throughout the entire year and in great quantities at the foot of oak, hazelnut, poplar, beech and pine trees. And last but not least, the Tuber Brumale Vittadini (winter truffle) can be found in the autumn and at the beginning of winter, and it is often

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confused with the valuable Melanosporum, even though the fragrance is not even close to that of the famous Frenchman. Black-white, summer-winter, nothing but opposites, which is not surprising because the consumers themselves can also be divided into those who are enthusiastic about them, almost addicted, and those who try them just once and never again! Truffles are found on the plates of poor Istrian farmers in the areas around Buzet and Motovun, as well as on the plates of crowned heads in their royal courts. Even Maria Theresa on her trip from Trieste to Vienna made a stop in the small village of Livade (below Motovun) for a portion of the delicacy, and since 1815 truffles have been found on the menus of the Congress of Vienna. The above mentioned Livade, a small place, well hidden and protected by thick forests in the valley of the Mirna River, under the watchful eye of the giant of Motovun, is the capital of the truffle, while the restaurant-wine bar Zigante, is its royal palace. The charm of the employees, as well as the warm smile of the owner of the prestigious title discoverer of the largest truffle in the world, Giancarlo Zigante, will appeal to you over and over again until you alone admit that you are addicted, and

not only to the delicacy but to the special way it is presented only in this restaurant. The restaurant only serves fresh truffles and that is dictated by what is found that season. Their endlessly aesthetic and complex dishes are characterised by immodest amounts of truffles, not grated, but rather cut into thin slices so that the experts know exactly which type is being served. In an atmosphere of stone, of wrought iron in the form of grape vines, of paintings on the walls by the famous artist MurtiÊ, along with candlelight and specially selected music, it is not hard to completely put oneself in the hands of the staff, who are the pride of any top-class restaurant. Regardless of whether you are eating lamb cutlets with white truffles, homemade fuæi (a type of pasta) or just scrambled eggs with black truffles, you need to know that in every combination the real star is the mushroom and it does not need much garnish, additives, expensive ingredients, caviar, lobster... The rich, earthy flavour of truffles enhances various dishes and has inspired numerous gourmet creations. Truffle ice cream is one such invention, a masterpiece of joining the incompatible. These gourmet mushrooms, essential to haute cuisine, are reputed to CROATIA AIRLINES

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strengthen and awaken the libido, a claim to fame which actually has no scientific basis. However, one thing is sure: money is a powerful aphrodisiac, and the astronomical price (up to 4000 euro per kilogram) guarantees small, sweet, short and rare satisfaction. Having said all that, may the truffle stay on the pedestal of the blessed aphrodisiacs, and may it continue to be one of the main selling points of Croatian gastronomy. Even though the black truffle is mostly known around the world as the Truffe de Perigord with the French having a monopoly, and the Italians have their Tartufo Nero Pregiato (the precious black truffle), in promotional and business terminology for truffles which grow in Istria, one should always use the term Istrian as do the Italians and the French for their truffles! This underground gentleman has personality; he is secretive, absolutely unfathomable and not at all simple. Classic and modern at the same time... To fall in love with it means to have courage, to dare, and then immensely enjoy it because we can say: Enjoying truffles means you have style! Golden Tidbits Whether you are just a traveller with a generally inquisitive mind, a true food connoisseur or somebody who takes pleasure in good cooking (a delicious snack, an interesting recipe), a stay anywhere in Croatia will turn you into a food aficionado - Croatia is simply that kind of place. The Croatian side of the Mediterranean is an empire of light food bathed in liquid gold - olive oil. Also, an area filled with the tastes of lamb from the island of Cres, cheese from the island of Pag, shrimp from the Kvarner region, oysters from Ston, Dalmatian fish, Istrian truffles... In the continental part you will be hard pressed to find someone who will not be licking their fingers after Slavonia kulen (flavoured pork sausage), turkey with mlinci (thin dried flatbread) from the Zagorje region, Baranja fish stew, or wild game from Gorski Kotar... For some people these Golden Tidbits will be a cook book, for others they will be a reminder of their childhood and primordial flavours, and for the rest they will act as a guideline to the new-old culinary trends... and what is not written− some ingredients based on your own tastes− you will add yourself. The art of preparation and the rich combinations that flow from your imagination will give your life a new dimension and pleasure at the table. Dobar tek! (Bon appetit!) We will start off with the truffle, but not just any− the white truffle. It is the pride of the Istrian 130

woods, conditio sine qua non of all the better restaurants, a culinary exclusive and the dream of every gourmet or kitchen chef, in whose hands its rich, earthy flavour will enhance various dishes as part of imaginative combinations. In every combination the seductive power of the white truffle enhances the richness and delicacy of the meal, whether on lamb chops, with homemade pasta, meat or fish carpaccio, sea bass fillets, with fresh tuna, or in fresh cottage cheese. Appetizer, main dish, salad... and dessert, with white truffles they become part of the prestigious Croatian culinary heritage, putting Istria and her land on the world map of top tourist destinations with buried treasure! Seafood Delicacies (Restoran Zigante−Livade) Ingredients: sea bass fillet 100 g, tuna fillet 100 g, monkfish tail fillet 100 g, spices to taste, capers to taste, fish stock 2 dcl, vegetable roots 200 g, white truffles 10 g, truffle butter 20 g Preparation: This experience on a plate requires patience, good preparation and purchasing of all of the necessary ingredients. If you really want to enjoy it, then you must first get one good black truffle. There are various options. The easiest way is to go to a store and buy a jar of Zigante Tartuf (Truffle). The variant that I like the best is to go to Livade near Motovun and choose a good, fresh, aromatic black mushroom that is currently available and was picked that morning. The fish you will buy either from a fisherman or at the fish market, of course go with someone dear to you so you can have a quick drink as a warm up to the upcoming event. Clean the sea bass fillets and stuff them with carrots and zucchini, then roll them and place them in a vacuum-sealed bag. Cook the root vegetables in boiling water, drain, and then quickly stir-fry them in a pan with the truffle butter, while boiling the fish stock on low heat until it thickens and turns into a thick emulsion. While the fillet is cooking in boiling water for a few minutes, you are in for some pure Rock and Roll action as you will not even have time to pour yourself a refreshing glass of white wine. In a preheated pan, grill the monkfish and tuna fillets quickly on both sides. While they are still warm lightly brush them with salt, pepper and a drizzle of olive oil. Arrange them on a plate, and then carefully remove the sea bass from the vacuumed-sealed bag with all the richness of aroma and flavour. Add the root vegetables and pour the sauce of fish stock over the sea bass, and of course, at the end, grate the beautiful white truffle over everything. This dish takes no time at all to prepare, but it deserves to be enjoyed slowly, slowly, slowly... n

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■ FENOMENI PHENOMENA

Piše/By Dubravka Belas

Imaju vlastiti teritorij, najËeπÊe na rubovima grada, ali neki su od njih osvojili i izborili svoje mjesto pod suncem Ëak i u najuæem gradskom srediπtu, usred pjeπaËke zone. Imaju svoju vojsku, svoje pretorijance, svoju πvicarsku gardu, naoËite mladiÊe u zaπtitarskim odorama razliËitih oznaka. Imaju svoje ulice, svoja πetaliπta, Ëak i prave palme i ﬁkuse… Oni su… shopping centri. They have their own areas, usually on the outskirts of town, but some of them have won and obtained their place under the sun, even in the most central part of town, in the middle of the pedestrian zone. They have their own armies, their praetorians, their Swiss Guard, dapper young men in security uniforms with various labels. They have their streets, their walkways, even real palm and ﬁcus trees. They are… shopping centres.

maju i svoje klupe i πetaliπa, natkrivene prolaze. Imaju svoje svodove kroz koje dopire svjetlost sunca, mjeseca i zvijezda, samo πto rijetki stignu podiÊi pogled. Imaju Ëak i svoje Ëudesne slapove i mala jezera koja se neËujno prelijevaju i odlaze preko glatkih mramornih obala da bi se uvijek iznova vratila. Svoje otporne washingtonije, benjamine, pandurate, koji rastu kao da su usred Kalifornije ili praπuma Juæne Azije… Imaju svoje bankomate, svoj poseban plastiËni novac, svoj logo i zastave. Svoje magazine, Ëasopise, restorane, kavane, kina, djeËje igraonice. Svoju komunalnu infrastrukturu.

Svoju odjeÊu, hranu, kuÊne potrepπtine, sportsku opremu, cipele i Ëizme, svoje parfeme, kozmetiku, namjeπtaj, posteljinu, kamere, televizore i raËunala. Knjige. Glazbu. Imaju Ëak i svoje neprijatelje − konkurentske centre. Na posljetku, imaju svoje odane podanike, gotovo vjernike. Jedino nemaju svoje hramove, ali to ovdje nikomu ne nedostaje. Oni su sami postali hramovi. Sociolog Benjamin PerasoviÊ smatra ih novom crkvom u kojoj se svi svjesno ili nesvjesno mole. Novinar Damir PiliÊ govori o bogu novca koji se uselio u hramove πopinga, vezujuÊi to za speciﬁ Ëno, hrvatsko i istoËnoeuropsko

dugogodiπnje iskustvo prikraÊenosti, jednoliËnih, praznih i sivih polica trgovina. Zapad je pohrlio na novo træiπte istoËne Europe, a ona je æudnju za Zapadom pohrlila utaæiti u hramovima πopinga, prodavπi duπu ’kapitalistiËkom avlu’, baπ kao πto onomad Indijanci za πaku πarenog stakla prodaπe Manhattan, zapisao je. Po svojoj samodostatnosti i svojoj samoodræivosti podsjeÊaju na polise, moÊne gradove-dræave helenskoga svijeta. Kako prikladno - prema Maxu Weberu i antiËki je polis bio grad potroπaËa, Konsumentenstadt. U potroπaËkome gradu Ëitavo je gospodarstvo usmjereno na to da sluæi vladajuÊoj klasi potroπaËa i zadovoljava sve potrebe stanovniπtva. Danas, u ovim suvremenim polisima, potroπaËi vladaju samo prividno, ne proizvodi se niπta, i sve je u potroπnji, ali barem se mogu zadovoljiti sve potrebe. Dobro, veÊina njih. Aristotel je isticao kako idealni polis ne bi smio biti toliki da se graani ne bi mogli meusobno poznavati. Moæda je, slijedeÊi tu nategnutu metaforu polisa, teπko zadovoljiti i taj uvjet, osobito kad je rijeË o metropoli, ali kod trgovaËkih centara sve je moguÊe, pa ni prepoznavanje nije posve iskljuËeno. Posrijedi je jednostavno to da su trgovaËki centri uspjeli u onome πto pola stoljeÊa nisu mogli postiÊi ujedinjeni napori urbanista, arhitekata, sociologa i psihologa − udahnuti æivot novim naseljima koja su u gradovima postala pukim spavaonicama, bijelim zonama otuenosti. Uza sve dobre namjere i projekte, æivot je ipak bio negdje drugdje. Ljudi su radili, razonodili CROATIA AIRLINES

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se, kupovali − negdje drugdje. Govorilo se: idem u grad. Æivot se odvijao na srediπnjim gradskim ulicama i trgovima, a onda bi se vraÊalo kuÊi, u mirna, topla, ali druπtveno zapuπtena naselja, u tvrdi grad, urbani hardware, njegove gole obrise, oskudne kulturnim i reakreacijskim javnim sadræajima. Sociologija arhitekture, zbog stalne racionalizacije, πto je nerijetko znaËilo posve banalnu besparicu, nije uspijevala rijeπiti taj problem. Nova naselja, Ëak i kad bi im okoliπ na posljetku bio kultiviran, nisu zavrπavala u mekom gradu individualiziranome, sadræajnome, prilagoenom druæenju, mjestu susreta i razgovora, osim na razini djeËjih igraliπta. Ali prepoznavanje nije rezervirano samo za kvartovske, susjedske odnose. Danas je jednostavno mnogo veÊa vjerojatnost da Êete ljude koje poznajete sresti u City Centru one ili u Branimir centru, nego u Ilici ili na glavnome trgu. TrgovaËki su centri u Hrvatskoj, na neki posve neoËekivan naËin, uspjeli u tome. Danaπnji klinci i klinke iz kvarta sastaju se pred ulazima tih centara. Odlaze zatim unutra, gledaju izloge, vitrine s kolaËima i pecivom, da, to se moæe i s nekoliko kuna u dæepu, listaju sjajne knjige u knjiæarama, gledaju TV program u trgovinama japanske elektronike, presluπavaju glazbu, sjedaju na dizajnerski namjeπtaj, isprobavaju talijanske cipele i πpanjolski prêt-à-porter, prskaju francuske parfeme po njeænim zapeπÊima, igraju se sa zvjerËicom iz pet-shopa, uæivaju u videoigrama ili jednostavno sjednu na klupe i promatraju rijeku ljudi koja teËe pred njihovim oËima. Ne trebaju im putokazi, jer svoj centar poznaju bolje od vlastite ulice, vlastite Ëetvrti. Ne trebaju im autobusi i tramvaji da bi doπli ovamo, ne trebaju im kiπobrani ili posebna odjeÊa, ovdje je vrijeme uvijek ugodno. Vani moæda puπe sjeverac, lije kiπa ili pada snijeg, ali ovdje neon svejednako svijetli. Vani sunce moæe nemilosrdno præiti, ali ovdje je zrak uvijek kondicioniran. Komu ovdje nedostaju prave ulice? Ovdje se uvijek Ëuje glazba, uvijek je guæva, æivot ovdje pulsira jaËe nego vani, ovdje osjeÊaju, tvrdi PerasoviÊ, da su blizu vrela æivota, πto je i bit potroπaËkog kapitalizma. Predstava Jana Fabrea Orgija tolerancije predstavlja Ëovjeka kao æivotinju koja kupuje, s instinktom preæivljavanja kupnjom, sa æeljom za stvarima duboko ukorijenjenima u genima, Ëistom silom prirode. Ili bi barem trgovaËki bog volio da je tako. A mi se uglavnom toj ulozi zduπno i uvjerljivo predajemo. Kao πto u predgovoru djela Orgija tolerancije kaæe Luk Van der Dries, u ovome druπtvu oni koji je ne igraju, bivaju iskljuËeni. Sa svojim vlastitim pravilima ponaπanja, svojim sigurnosnim sustavima, shopping mall, taj ameriËki izum prihvaÊen radosnije 136

i spremnije od McDonaldsa i Coca-Cole, suprotstavljen je javnim ulicama, igraliπtima su suprotstavljeni ﬁtness centri, trænicama s individualnim prodavaËima suprotstavljeni su zajedniËki anonimni trgovaËki prostori, i na neki smo apsurdan i skriven naËin, bjeæeÊi od jednog kolektiviteta i, ne sluteÊi, upali u drugi. TraæeÊi individualizam, ponovno smo naπli svoje jato. Ali kakvo divno, slatko jato, kakvo πarenilo, kakvo izobilje tekstura, mirisa, boja, Ëak i cijena… i odjednom je nepodnoπljivo lako pred svime time poloæiti oruæje. Onako kako je trgovina, dok se odvijala na ulici, tu istu ulicu artikulirala i intenzivirala, danas je od nje postala posve neovisna, kontrolirana svojim novim prostorom. Sve πto je ponueno, napravljeno je kako bi nas dovelo u iskuπenje. Cijela je znanost zasnovana na tome na kojoj Êe se polici neπto nalaziti, kojom veliËinom slova Êemo biti upozoreni na novi proizvod, na koju Êemo se boju lakπe upecati, a pulsirajuÊe Êe æaruljice upuÊivati na mitske akcije i promocije, uvijek dodatne razloge da neπto kupimo. I mi, tako napaljeni, dolazimo, punimo svoja æiËana kolica, guramo ih radosno od jednoga do drugog reda polica i ubacujemo unutra robu za koju vjerujemo da Êe uËiniti viπe od toga da nas odjene ili nahrani. Svi Êe ti πareni paketi pomoÊi da ostvarimo poneki san, zadovoljimo neku dublju glad od tjelesne. Kupnjom pokazujemo da smo veÊ ili joπ tu, da moæemo, da pripadamo. Kupujemo, dakle jesmo. Strast od koje je na Zapadu veÊ poËelo otreænjivanje, danas uskrsava na tako dugo uskraÊivanom Istoku. Homo ludensa zamijenio je homo emens, Ëovjek koji kupuje, novi, nadnacionalni soj na Zemlji, potroπaËka æivotinja. I doista, uza sve priËe i piskaranja o krizi i recesiji, pogledajte samo prostrana parkiraliπta shopping centara - cijeloga dana automobili ulaze i izlaze, traæi se mjesto viπe i πto bliæe ulazima, vrte se spirale u garaæama. Ah, kakve li blagodati dogurati puna kolica do samoga prtljaænika, bez noπenja tereta u rukama. Uostalom, kako odoljeti tomu da na jednome mjestu, ne kruæeÊi gradskim ulicama u potrazi za parkingom, proganjani vjeËitom vremenskom stiskom, kupimo gotovo sve πto je potrebno cijeloj obitelji i da za to vrijeme dijete ostavimo u igraonici, da ne zanovijeta, istrenirano od malena da mu kupimo baπ ovu igraËku ili baπ ove æele bombone. Kako odoljeti moguÊnosti da bebu, koju nismo morali ostaviti kod kuÊe, negdje izmeu dva duÊana, premotamo pelenom iz automata (jer svoju smo zaboravili ponijeti) ili da u miru moæda negdje sjednemo i nahranimo je. Kad smo sretni, kupujemo. Kad smo nesretni, kupujemo joπ viπe. Nakon napornoga i teπkog

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dana kupujemo da bismo se opustili, nakon dobroga i uspjeπnog dana da bismo se nagradili, kupujemo da bismo se utjeπili nakon loπega, ili se lakπe nosili s napetoπÊu. Kupujemo da bismo se smirili kad smo uzrujani ili bezbolno i brzo eliminirali neku svoju malu tugu i usamljenost. Katkad je dovoljno da sjednemo u neki od kafiÊa i predahnemo gledajuÊi ljude koji prolaze, ispijajuÊi svoj café latte s daπkom cimeta ili capuccino s Ëokoladnom praπinom na Ëvrstoj kapi od tuËene pjene. Ili da, zavedeni privlaËnim mirisom, ostanemo ovdje na ruËku − moæda samo na ﬁnoj, hrskavoj pizzi ili pak guπtajuÊi u nekome proﬁnjenijem uratku slow-fooda. Ali, ærtve nove æudnje nisu samo obitelji, æene ili djeca − trik je u tome da svakome centri pruæaju neπto posebno i svaka je druπtvena skupina znalaËki ciljana, mamljena i dobrodoπla. »ak i ona koja u ovom trenutku nema viπe πto potroπiti, jer vremena se mijenjaju i niπta nije stalno, pa ni besparica. Psihologinja Mirjana KrizmaniÊ oduπevljeno govori o posve novome momentu koji je zapazila odlazeÊi u trgovaËke centre jednim odreenim danom - nedjeljom. Vidjela je, naime, mnogo samih oËeva s djecom. Vidi ih kako trËkaraju za djecom, nose ih u nosiljkama, guraju u kolicima, premataju ih, igraju se s njima i drugom djecom koju su dopratili njihovi oËevi ili tek Ëekaju pred igraonicama. Majkama, koje se uglavnom mnogo viπe bave djecom, vrijeme koje mogu provesti same dragocjeno je. Nebitno je pritom hoÊe li ga iskoristiti za rjeπavanje zaostalih kuÊnih poslova, kuhanje nedjeljnog ruËka ili se jednostavno posvetiti sebi samoj. Vaæan je ne samo taj obnavljajuÊi predah, nego i ono πto to zajedniËko vrijeme Ëini jedinstvenoj i zasebnoj vezi izmeu oËeva i djece, sve bitnijoj muπkoj odrednici. Tek Êe takvim aktivnim ukljuËivanjem u roditeljske kompetencije i oËevi ostvariti puni roditeljski identitet, doæivjeti ga potpuno na emocionalnu dobrobit obitelji. Poseban dobitak oËinskog sudjelovanja izraæen je u zaigranijem pristupu i manjoj zabrinutosti za svakodnevne detalje i opasnosti, odakle Ëesto veÊa djetetova sloboda, kreativnost pa i hrabrost. To je, dakle, jedan neoËekivani bonus muπkih nedjelja u πoping centrima. Mnogi su centri prepoznali obitelji kao vaæne potroπaËe, pa se za njih organiziraju razliËite predstave i priredbe − djeËje glazbene manifestacije, priËanje priËa, zajedniËko slaganje puzzlea ili kiÊenje boæiÊnog drvca, roendanske proslave. Za odrasle, tu su koncerti, kasnonoÊne prigodne kupnje s velikim popustima, razliËite nagradne igre s izloæenim poæeljnim i sjajnim zgodicima, automobilima parkiranima u predvorju centra.

Tu su degustacije, predstavljanja, gostujuÊi vizaæisti. Nedavno je u naπemu najveÊem trgovaËkom centru odræano sad veÊ tradicionalno i ugledno modno dogaanje Cro-a-porter. I taj je centar sa svojim arhitektonskim rjeπenjima viπe od obiËnog mjesta za kupnju. KrijuÊi u svome srcu amﬁteatarsku dvoranu, iznenadio je 120 metara dugom modnom pistom na kojoj su, uz poznate svjetske brandove, predstavljeni renomirani ali i tek dolazeÊi hrvatski modni dizajneri. A za obiËno popodne provedeno u kupnji, ponudit Êe vam osobnog stilista. Ili te raskoπne multipleks kinodvorane koje su zamijenile nekadaπnja kvartovska kina. Moæda Êe vas muËiti nostalgija za njima, ali zbog udobnosti i tehniËkih prednosti, od slike do ozvuËenja, brzo Êete zaboraviti njihovu starinsku romantiku i, uz rezervaciju ulaznice, naruËiti piÊe i jelovnik, kojim Êe vas tijekom projekcije neËujno posluæiti. Za Zagreb kaæu da je zabavan grad. To je svakako istina u veÊem dijelu godine. Imidæu metropole zabave zacijelo pridonosi i Branimir centar - zabavni centar u srediπtu grada u Branimirovoj ulici u blizini Glavnog kolodvora, samo 10 minuta pjeπice od glavnog trga. Cinestar, najposjeÊenije i najbolje multipleks kino u Zagrebu, samo je jedan od zabavnih aduta Branimir centra. Tu je i Wettpunkt automat klub, gdje je lako izgubiti pojam o vremenu u igri na nekome od automata. Uz kaﬁÊe, knjiæare i nekoliko trgovina u prizemnoj etaæi, valja spomenuti i donju etaæu, koja nudi neπto æivlju zabavu. Prije svega tu je pivnica Hopdevil, u kojoj slobodno moæete pretjerati uæivajuÊi u svim moguÊim vrstama piva, ali i Ëuti najbolje live bendove, od poznatih Majki i Psihomodo Popa do mlaih i ne toliko eksponiranih bendova. Nadalje tu je izvrstan meksiËki i talijanski restoran, a ponudu noÊne zabave nadopunjuje Drop In - mjesto u kojemu Êete, osobito vikendom, moÊi i zaplesati. Toliko sadræaja na jednome mjestu - Branimir centar mjesto je koje svakako vrijedi posjetiti. Teπko je zamisliti da neπto πto traæite neÊete pronaÊi u najposjeÊenijim zagrebaËkim πoping centrima. Uostalom, treba napraviti domaÊu zadaÊu, pregledati njihovu ponudu na internetu pa se onda zaputiti u potragu u viπe od tisuÊu trgovina koje centri zajedno nude kupcima. Uz hranu, vjerojatno se najviπe prodaje odjeÊa, prema pouci junakinje serije Seks i grad − koja svoj novac najviπe voli ondje gdje ga moæe vidjeti − kako visi u njezinu ormaru. Ponuda odjeÊe u City Centru one, zadovoljit Êe muπko i æensko, mlado i staro, a ima poneπto i za one koji trebaju velike brojeve. U ovom raju obilja naÊi Êete sve: od kozmetike i parfema do djeËje mode, opreme, i higijenskih potrepπtina, papirnice, kuhinjska pomagala, CROATIA AIRLINES

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zdravu hranu i slatkiπe koje nigdje drugdje ne moæete kupiti, drogerije i parfumerije, modne dodatke, cipele, prehrambene trgovine, kao i restorane i kaﬁÊe, u kojima moæete imati ugodnu stanku. Jedino se ovdje u gradu mogu kupiti ævakaÊe s okusom cimeta, ponajbolje engleske winegums i mekane karamele. Jedinstvenost su tih shopping centara su i usluge koje nude posjetiteljima, poput shoppinga sa stilistom i Beauty&Make-up cornera. Naime, samo u City Center one shopping centrima moæete shoppingirati uz besplatne savjete stilistica te iskoristiti potpuno bes-platno πminkanje vizaæistica, uz predoËenje raËuna o kupnji za 200 kuna ili viπe. No tu priËi nije kraj. Dok vi shoppingirate, vaπi najmlai sigurni su u velikoj besplatnoj igraonici Kid’s Jungle, gdje ih Ëuva profesionalno osoblje. Tu su i stalna dogaanja, kojima City Center one nudi nove sadræaje posjetiteljima, poput modnih revija za djecu i odrasle, sportske evente, razliËita natjecanja, predstave i radionice za klince i joπ mnogo toga. Uz City Centre one u Zagrebu i Splitu u proljeÊe 2012. otvorit Êe se i treÊi City Center one na zagrebaËkom Æitnjaku. I tako, izmjenjuju se sjajni izlozi i treπte svoj altiserovski Hej, ti tamo-povik, samo pretoËen u vizualno. I vi se prepoznajete, da, zovu upravo vas, regrutiraju vas svejednako, ribare i hvataju u svoju neodoljivu mreæu, u svoju srebrnu i zlatnu pauËinu. TrgovaËki su centri danas postali viπe od novih, nezaobilaznih, strateπki rasporeenih gradskih toponima. Promijenili su navike ljudi, oblikovali novi javni prostor, kreirali nove vrijednosne sustave i kulturnu geograﬁju, neoËekivano i dvoznaËno ozbiljujuÊi onu duhovitu dosjetku: Nekad smo gradili civilizacije. Sada gradimo trgovaËke centre. n

hey have their own benches and promenades, and covered passages. They have their own vaulted ceilings through which shines the light of the sun, moon and stars, except that few people have the time to take a look. They even have their own enchanting waterfalls and small lakes which silently run over their smooth marble coasts and always return anew, their resistant washingtonias, benjamins, pandurate, which grow as if they are in the middle of California or the rainforests of South Asia. They have their own ATMs, their particular plastic money, their logos and ﬂags. Their magazines, restaurants, cafes, cinemas, and children’s play centres. Their own urban infrastructure. Their own clothes, food, household items, sports equipment, shoes and boots, their own perfumes, cosmetics, furniture, bed linens, cameras, televisions and computers. 138

Books. Music. They even have their own enemies − competing centres. Finally, they have their own loyal subjects, almost faithful followers. The only things they don’t have are their own temples, but nobody misses them here. The centres themselves have become temples. Sociologist Benjamin PerasoviÊ considers shopping centres to be the new churches in which everyone prays, either consciously or unconsciously. Journalist Damir PiliÊ talks about the God of money who has moved into the temples of shopping, linking it specifically to Croatia and Eastern Europe where for many years people experienced deprivation, reflected in the unvarying and empty stores shelves. The West rushed on to the new markets of Eastern Europe, and the countries of Eastern Europe ran to satisfy their own craving for all things western in the shopping temples, selling their souls to the ‘capitalistic devil’, just as the Indians once sold Manhattan for a handful of coloured glass, wrote PiliÊ. Based on their self-sufficiency and sustainability they remind us of the polis of the powerful city-states of the Hellenic world. It is an appropriate comparison because according to Max Weber the ancient polis was a consumer city, Konsumentenstadt. In a consumer city the entire economy is aimed at serving the ruling class of consumers and satisfying all of the needs of the population. In today’s modern polis, it only seems like the consumers rule. They do not produce anything and it is all about spending, but at least they can satisfy all of their needs. Well, at least most of them. Aristotle said that the ideal polis should not be too big because the citizens would not be able to get to know one another. Perhaps it is difficult to satisfy that condition by following the already overstretched metaphor of the polis, especially when we are talking about a metropolis. However, everything is possible in a shopping centre, and even recognizing familiar faces is not impossible. It is simply a fact that the shopping centres have succeeded in doing what the joint efforts of urban planners, architects, sociologists and psychologists could not achieve in half a century − give life to new settlements which in the cities have become mere dormitories and white zones of alienation. Regardless of all the good intentions and projects, life still took place somewhere else. People worked, ate and shopped somewhere else. They said: I am going to town. Life took place on the streets and in the shops in the centre of town. Then they would return home, to a quiet, warm but socially neglected village, to the urban hardware, its bare outlines, lacking

in cultural, recreational and any other public contents. The sociology of the architecture, because of constant rationalization, which often meant a completely banal lack of money, did not succeed to resolve that problem. The new neighbourhoods, even when their surroundings were eventually cultivated, did not end up as urban software; individualized, rich in content, adapted to socializing, places to meet and talk, except at the level of children’s play centres. Recognizing familiar faces, however, is not just reserved for the neighbourhood and neighbourly relations. Today the chances are simply much greater that you will run into people you know in City Centre one or in Branimir Centre rather than on Ilica or the main square. The shopping centres in Croatia have succeeded in that in a completely unexpected way. Today girls and boys from the neighbourhood meet each other at the entrances of these centres. Then they go inside, look at the shop windows, the stands with cakes and bread, which they can do even with only a few kuna in their pockets, they also ﬂip through the wonderful books in the book shops, watch TV shows in the shops with Japanese electronics, listen to music, sit on designer furniture, try on Italian shoes and Spanish prêt-à-porter, spray French perfumes on their tender wrists, play with the animals in the pet shops, enjoy video games or simply sit on the benches and watch the river of people who ﬂow in front of their eyes. They do not need directions because they know their shopping centres better than they know their own streets, their own neighbourhoods. They do not need to use the buses or trams to come here. They do not need umbrellas or special clothes since the weather is always comfortable. Perhaps it is windy outside, or pouring rain or snowing, but inside the neon lights are shining. Outside the sun may be burning mercilessly, but here it is always air conditioned. Who here is missing the real streets? Here you can always listen to music, it is always crowded, the pulse of life is stronger here than outside. PerasoviÊ claims that here you can feel that you are close to the well of life, which is the essence of consumer capitalism. Jan Fabre’s show Orgy of Tolerance presents man as an animal who shops, with an instinct for survival through shopping, and a desire for things which is deeply rooted in our genes as a pure force of nature. Or at least the God of shopping would like it to be so. In general, we give in to that role wholeheartedly and convincingly. As Luk Van den Dries says in the preface to his work; in this society, those who are not playing are excluded.

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LANVIN, BALENCIAGA, AZZEDINE ALAร A, YVES SAINT LAURENT, GIVENCHY, BALMAIN, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, STELLA MCCARTNEY, &ะด/,1( &+/2ะด %85%(55< 3525680 5,&. 2:(16 0,8 0,8 0$51, -,/ 6$1'(5 9,211(7 $/(;$1'(5 :$1* $&1( -($16 )$/,(52 6$57, 0$,621 0,&+(/ 720 %,116 (5,&.621 %($021 1$7$/,$ %5,//, *,86(33( =$1277, '(6,*1 1,&+2/$6 .,5.:22' *,$19,72 5266, %85$. 8<$1 3285 0$5,$ /,1'$ )$552: /8;( 12,6 5(' /,1( 67(,'/ 7$6&+(1 )/$00$5,21 6.,5$ 0DULD =DJUHE 0DVDU\NRYD 0DULD 'XEURYQLN 6Y 'RPLQLND EE 2XWOHW 'XEURYQLN &YLMHWH =X]RULรพ www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr facebook.com/mariastore.hr CROATIA AIRLINES 139

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With its own rules of conduct, its own security systems, the shopping mall, that American invention, has been more readily and cheerfully accepted than McDonalds and Coca-Cola, and now it competes against the public streets. The sports grounds compete against the fitness centres, the markets with individual sellers compete against the common anonymous shopping areas; in some absurd and obscure way, by trying to flee one collectiveness we are unaware that we have fallen into another. In search of individualism we again find ourselves in a herd. But what a wonderful, sweet herd, so colourful, and with such a wealth of textures, fragrances, colours, and even prices... and suddenly it is incredibly easy to surrender. In the same way that street trade managed to articulate the street and intensify life on it, nowadays, street trade has become independent from the street and is now controlled by its new area. Everything that is offered has been made to tempt us. There is an entire science based on the layout of the shelves and what will be displayed on what shelf; what size of letters will be used to alert us, what colour will be best to get us hooked, and there will be flashing lights on the mythical discounts and sales, which always add reasons why we should buy something. With our desire aroused, we race to fill our metal shopping carts, pushing them with joy from one row of shelves to another. We throw in things that we believe will do more for us than just clothe or feed us. All those colourful packages will help us realize some of our dreams; to satisfy a hunger deeper than simple bodily hunger. By shopping we show that we have arrived or that we are still there, that we can and that we belong. We shop, therefore we are. This passion, from which the West has already started sobering up, has today been resurrected in the East, which has been deprived for so long. Home ludens has been replaced by homo demens; the shopping man, a new supranational breed on the Earth − a consumer animal. Indeed, despite all of the stories and articles about the crisis and recession, just take a look at the enormous parking lots of the shopping centres − cars are coming and going all day long, looking for more parking spots as close to the entrances as possible, and driving around the spirals in the garages. Ah, what a blessing it is to push your full cart right up to the trunk of your car, without having to carry anything in your arms. Indeed, how does one resist the temptation of one-stop shopping, where you do not have to circle around the city streets looking for parking persecuted by the eternal pressure

of time? How can one resist an opportunity to buy everything for the family in one place while leaving one’s child in the play centre, and thus train him from a very early age not to whine and cry for a particular toy or particular jelly candies? How does a couple resist the temptation not to leave their baby at home but rather change him/her at a place conveniently located between two shops and use a nappy from a machine (since they forgot to take their own from home) or perhaps sit somewhere peaceful and quiet so they can feed the baby? When we are happy, we shop. We shop even more when we are unhappy. After a long and hard day, we shop to unwind; after a good and successful day, we shop to reward ourselves; we shop to find consolation when something bad has happened; we shop to ease tension. We shop to calm our nerves when we are upset; we shop to find a quick remedy or relief for some petty sorrow or loneliness. Sometimes, it is enough just to sit down in some of the cafes and take a break while watching the people go by, sipping one’s cafe latte with a hint of cinnamon or a cappuccino with a sprinkle of chocolate powder on top of a solid base of whipped cream. Maybe the seducing smells will tempt us to stay and have lunch − a slice of delicious thin-crust pizza or something more sophisticated in the shape of a refined slow-food product. The victims of this new craving are not only families, women and children − the trick lies in the fact that shopping centres offer something special to everybody; every social group is skilfully targeted, tempted and welcome. Even those who have no disposable income at the moment, because times change and nothing remains the same forever, not even a lack of money. Psychologist Mirjana KrizmaniÊ speaks with delight about an entirely new thing that she has noticed during her visits to shopping centres on one particular day in the week − Sunday. She has seen a large number of fathers alone with their children. She has seen them running after their children, carrying them in baby carriers, pushing them in their prams, changing them, playing with them and with other children accompanied by their fathers or waiting for them in front of the play centres. Mothers, who usually spend much more time with their children, cherish the me-time that this leaves them. It does not really matter whether they use that time to do the piledup ironing, cook Sunday dinner or devote it to themselves. What matters is not only this regenerating break for the mothers, but also what the time that the fathers spend with their children does to that unique and special bond, which is becoming increasingly important to CROATIA AIRLINES

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men. Only by taking this type of active involvement in parenting duties can fathers achieve their full parental identity, and experience it fully to the beneﬁt of the entire family. As a result of the fathers’ involvement, children are becoming more playful and less concerned about everyday details and dangers, which in turn leads to more freedom, creativity and courage. Thus, this is an unexpected bonus of the Sundays men spend in shopping centres. Many centres have recognized families as important consumers and therefore organize different shows and events for them − children’s musical festivals, storytelling, group puzzle assembly, or group Christmas tree decorating, as well as birthday parties. For adults, there are concerts, late night shopping events with big discounts, prize winning contests with the beautiful coveted awards on display, for example cars parked at the very entrance to the centre. There are also food tastings, product presentations and guest make-up artists. Just recently, the traditional and popular fashion event, Cro-à-porter, was held in our biggest shopping centre. The architectural design makes this shopping centre much more than just a place to shop. An amphitheatric hall hidden in its heart surprised the audience with a 120 metre-long runway where the creations of already well known, as well as up and coming, Croatian designers were presented along with famous global fashion brands. You can even count on the services of your own personal stylist for a simple afternoon of shopping. And what about the fantastic multiplex cinemas that have replaced the good old neighbourhood cinemas? You may be nostalgic for the latter, but the comfort and technical capabilities, both visual and audio, will make you soon forget their old-world romantic feel. And last but certainly not least, when you reserve your seat in one of the new multiplex theatres, you can also order from a drink or food menu and your order will be served silently and unobtrusively during the show. They say that Zagreb is a fun city. That is certainly true most of the year, apart from summer when the entertainment moves to the coast. Branimir Centre undoubtedly contributes to the fun image − this entertainment centre is situated in Branimir Street in the city centre, close to Zagreb’s Main Railway Station and only a ten-minute walk from the main square. Cinestar, the best and most popular multiplex cinema in Zagreb, is just one of Branimir Centre’s attractions. There’s also the Wettpunkt casino, where it is easy to lose track of time when playing on a slot machine. There are coffee bars, bookshops and shops on the 142

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ground floor. On the lower ground floor, there is the HopDevil pub, where you can enjoy a wide range of beers and listen to live bands, from top bands like Majka and Psihomodo Pop to young and upcoming bands. There are also excellent Mexican and Italian restaurants, and the Drop in, where you can dance in the evenings. With so much to do in just one place, Branimir Centre is certainly worth a visit. It is quite hard to imagine that you will not be able to find what you are looking for in the most popular shopping centres in Zagreb. You can always start by doing your homework: compare their offers on the Internet and then start your search in over a thousand different shops, which is the combined number of shopping opportunities in all these centres together. Besides food, the second best selling products are clothes. To quote one of the main characters from the series Sex and the City: I like my money right where I can see it − hanging in my closet. The offer of clothing in City Center one will satisfy both men and women, young and somewhat older; there is something even for those who wear plus sizes. In this paradise of plenty you will find a comprehensive offer ranging from cosmetics and fragrances,

baby fashion and equipment, drug stores and perfumeries, accessories, shoes, grocery stores as well as restaurants and coffee bars in which you can take a break, toiletries, stationary, kitchen paraphernalia to healthy food products and sweets that cannot be found anywhere else. Only here in the city of Zagreb can you buy cinnamon ﬂavoured chewing gum, the best English wine gums and soft toffee. What makes these shopping centers unique are also the services they offer its’ customers, like shopping with the stylist and Beauty&Make-up corner. Only in City Center one you can shop with the stylist for free and get free make-up treatment just by showing a receipt with 200 kuna spent in the Center. But that is not where the story ends, while you shop, your children are safe playing in large playroom − Kid’s Jungle, while being taken care of by professional staff. In City Center one there are also events and new contents that these centers offer its’ customers like fashion shows for children and adults, sport events, competitions, workshops and plays for children and much more. Along with City Center one in Zagreb and Split, in spring 2012 third City Center one shopping center will open in Zagreb Æitnjak area.

The opulent and splendid shop windows take their turn and shout at you like Althuusser’s policeman: Hey, you there − only they do it visually. And you recognize that it is you they are calling out to. They are recruiting you all the time; they ﬁsh and catch you in their irresistible net, they pull you into their silver and golden cobweb. Shopping centres have become more than new, unavoidable, strategically deployed city toponyms. They have changed people’s habits, they have shaped public spaces, they have created new systems of values and cultural geography. All of a sudden, the witty remark: We used to build civilizations. Now we build shopping malls, has assumed an unexpected and ambiguous reality. n

PRVA REGIONALNA KONFERENCIJA O AVIOINDUSTRIJI FIRST REGIONAL AVIATION INDUSTRY CONFERENCE

U organizaciji Infoarene u poËetku studenoga, u zagrebaËkom hotelu The Regent Esplanade, okupili su se renomirani struËnjaci iz avioindustrije. O dræavnoj politici prema civilnom zrakoplovstvu, ﬁnanciranju aviokompanija i zraËnih luka, promjenama koje nas oËekuju ulaskom u EU, razgovarali su priznati struËnjaci i autoriteti te industrije. Programski menadæer konferencije Omer Pita, direktor Agencije za civilno zrakoplovstvo, tom je prilikom istaknuo: - U svim se zemljama zraËni promet znatno poveÊao u godini ulaska u Europsku uniju, u prosjeku dvadesetak posto. Stoga Êe i zraËni prijevoznici i aerodromi uskoro morati poveÊavati kapacitete. Takoer je zakljuËeno kako bi zraËni promet u Hrvatskoj i jugoistoËnoj Europi u buduÊnosti mogao znaËajno prosperirati, za πto se treba pripremiti jaËom suradnjom i pronalaskom novih poslovnih modela. 144

Aviation industry experts gathered at Zagreb’s Regent Esplanade Hotel for a conference organised by Infoarena. The conference covered topics such as national policies towards civil aviation, the financing of aviation companies and airports, and changes that can be expected upon entry into the EU. The conference programme manager, Omer Pita, Director of the Croatian Civil Aviation Agency, said at the conference: All countries experienced a considerable increase in air traffic, of about twenty percent on average, in their year of entry into the European Union. It was concluded that air traffic in Croatia and Southeast Europe might prosper greatly in the future and that preparations should be made for this through stronger cooperation and the implementation of new business models.

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(-3$1- 3(.- + BUSINESS CONFERENCES ZAGREB, CROATIA

Supply Chain Management Arena – 1st February, 2012 $MDQFX $ŪBHDMBX QDM@ – 27th and 28th February, 2012 9th 3DKDBNLLTMHB@SHNM ,DCH@ 3DBGMNKNFX QDM@ – 13th March, 2012 %HM@MBD QDM@ – 27th March, 2012 8th CRM Arena – 17th April, 2012 CIO Arena – 25th April, 2012 Health Care Business Arena – 8th May, 2012 3QC Energy Arena – 24th May, 2012 2MC (MEQ@RSQTBSTQD +NFHRSHBR 3Q@MRONQS QDM@ – 5th June, 2012

Organizer

YOUR BUSINESS INTELLIGENCE AND NETWORK PARTNER VVV HMEN@QDM@ GQ | tel: +385 1 555 3721 | fax: +385 1 557 1851 | e-mail: conferences@infoarena.hr CROATIA AIRLINES 145

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■ POZNATI U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU CELEBRITIES IN OUR AIRCRAFT

Piše/By Anika Rešetar

POLETITE U HRVATSKU S ASHLEY COLBURN

TAKEOFF TO CROATIA WITH ASHLEY COLBURN Ashley Colburn jedna je od najmlaih dobitnica sveameriËke televizijske nagrade Emmy. Nagradu je dobila u dobi od samo 23 godine. Ugledna nagrada dodijeljena joj je 2010. godine u kategoriji dokumentarnog filma s podruËja povijesti i kulture za tridesetominutni film WOWCroatia. Ashley Colburn is one of the youngest winners of an Emmy Award, an American television award. She was only 23 years old when she got it. She won the prestigious award in 2010 in the category historical and cultural documentary films for her thirty minute film WOWCroatia. 146

shley Colburn oduvijek je, kaæe, htjela snimati putopisne serijale. Zato je svom uredniku na TV postaji Wealth predloæila snimanje polusatnih dokumentarnih ﬁlmova iz razliËitih zemalja, a prva zemlja za koju se odluËila bila je Hrvatska. Naime, meu mnogim fotograﬁjama njezina brata, koje joj je pokazao poslije povratka s putovanja po Europi, najviπe su joj se svidjele one iz Hrvatske. Kako o toj zemlji nije baπ niπta znala, poËela se sve viπe zanimati za Hrvatsku. Mnogi njezini sunarodnjaci takoer nisu baπ znali neπto o Hrvatskoj, pa je odluËila Hrvatsku prikazati kao dobro skrivenu tajnu. Mnogo turistiËkih zemalja, kaæe, pretjeralo je u svemu, previπe je i posjetitelja i ponude iskljuËivo namijenjene turistima. U Hrvatskoj joπ postoji prava mjera pa se zato tu osjeÊa vrlo ugodno. Najviπe joj se sviaju ljudi. Kaæe da su vrlo pristupaËni i susretljivi, uvijek ponude pomoÊ i doista to misle. Pred kamerama Ashley Colburn djeluje pristupaËno i vedro, kao da se i sama raduje zbog priËa koje otkriva sebi i gledateljima. Uspjeh je ojaËao njezin poloæaj na TV postaji Wealth, pa je ostvarila serijal putopisnih dokumentaraca pod nazivom Take off with Ashley Colburn. Hrvatska, Nikaragva, Makao, ©vicarska, Tajland, Turska, ©panjolska, Italija, ©vedska samo su neke od 20 zemalja u kojima je veÊ snimala. Iako ste joπ vrlo mladi, ostavljate dojam osobe koja zna πto hoÊe, a u posljednjih nekoliko godina predano ste i vrlo ambiciozno radili... Jeste li veÊ u djetinjstvu znali πto æelite raditi? Kako je proteklo to razdoblje Vaπeg æivota? - Od malih nogu veoma sam voljela stajati pred ljudima i pripovijedati priËe. Moæda sam i zbog toga bila uspjeπna na πkolskim natjecanjima dræanja govora u javnosti. U srednjoj sam πkoli pokrenula i internu televiziju sa πkolskim vijestima, koja i danas radi. Poslije sam studirala televizijsko novinarstvo te πpanjolski jezik i knjiæevnost na sveuËiliπtu u Coloradu, a studijski semestar provela sam u ©panjolskoj. Odrasla sam u San Diegu, u Kaliforniji. Otac mi je veterinar, majka kuÊanica, a imam joπ dva brata i sestru. Naπ obiteljski æivot bio je obiljeæen snaænim vjerskim æivotom, oba roditelja potjeËu iz protestantskih obitelji (preci su doπli iz ©vicarske i NjemaËke). Otac je zagovarao, podræavao i provodio program 4H, poËetna slova za rijeËi head, heart, hands, health (glava, srce, ruke, zdravlje). Tako sam odmalena vodila brigu za svinje i ovce koje mi je dodijelio otac na skrb, i s njima osvojila mnoge nagrade. Volim se natjecati, postavljam sebi visoke ciljeve, izazovi

me motiviraju, a teπkoÊe rjeπavam u hodu. Obitelj, rodbina i brojni prijatelji vode æivot pun zajedniËkih aktivnosti i to me Ëvrsto ukorjenjuje, a djed i baka zarazili su me virusom putovanja. Nedavno su se vratili s trotjednog putovanja po Africi, iako im je 85 godina. NekoÊ je putovalo samo plemstvo kao zavrπni razred obrazovanja, a sad putuju svi i putovanja su postala veoma vaæna mnoπtvu ljudi, kao nikad prije. Kako to? - Putovanja su vaæna jer nam dopuπtaju da otkrijemo i svijet i sebe. Okruæeni smo razliËitim krizama i ratovima te izloæeni mnogim slikama nasilja. Putovanja nam daju osjeÊaj slobode. Otvoreniji smo za raznovrsne doæivljaje i otkrivamo kako u svijetu postoje Ëuda i mjesta mirnog æivota. Mislim da nam putovanja pomaæu da bolje shvatimo i svijet i sebe. Kad putujemo, otvoreni smo za razliËite kulture i religije, poπtujemo tue obiËaje koji daju peËat zemlji u kojoj se nalazimo. Za mene je svijet mjesto puno razliËitih moguÊnosti. Æeljela bih proputovati cijeli svijet i prikazati ga u svojim emisijama. Osim toga, na putovanjima uvelike uËim. I vidim stvari koji mi pomaæu da bolje vodim svoj æivot. Meni putovanja kao da govore kakav æivot æelim poslije voditi. Mediji imaju sve veÊu ulogu u promidæbi turizma. Koliki je danas njihov utjecaj? - Odnos izmeu medija i turizma postao je vrlo vaæan, a moj je dojam da danas mediji velikim dijelom kontroliraju turistiËku industriju. Ako je neka zemlja malo prisutna u medijima, veÊa je vjerojatnost da Êe je posjetiti malo posjetitelja. ©to viπe radim ovaj posao, Ëini mi se da mediji i turizam zanemaruju ljude koji æive u tim odrediπtima, da nedovoljno govore o æivotima tih ljudi. Volim ljude. Oduvijek su me zanimali ljudi i njihova priËa. Ljudi æive æivote, a njihove priËe mogu nam biti ohrabrenje i nadahnuÊe. To je u fokusu moga posla. PriËam priËe o tome kako ljudi æive i kako im æivot obiljeæavaju krajolici, povijest, hrana, kako to oblikuje njihov naËin æivljenja æivota. Mislim da su te priËe faktor zbog kojih se posjetitelji neprestano vraÊaju, zbog snage povijesti i kulture koja ih privlaËi. Kad radim, pokuπavam ne tragati samo za Ëvrsto odreenim temama. Pokuπavam raditi tako da i priËe nau mene. Tako je bilo nedavno i na Rabu. Poπla sam pojesti tortu u slastiËarnici, a zavrπila snimajuÊi prilog o izradi torte Ëiji je recept star viπe od 800 godina. To me kao Amerikanku privlaËi. Mi imamo veoma veliku zemlju, suvremene ceste i velike parade. Ali nemamo viπestoljetne tradicije, a to zanima mene i moje gledatelje. Veoma sam

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Romeo IbriševiÊ

zahvalna TV postaji Wealth Channel za sve πto mi je omoguÊila, ali upravo zbog æelje da radim na svoj naËin i preuzmem kontrolu nad svojim proizvodima, osnovala sam nedavno vlastitu produkcijsku kuÊu. Odgovornost je veÊa, ali i sloboda. A izazove volim. Veoma sam ambiciozna! TuristiËka industrija sve viπe raste. Opiπite nam træiπte za Vaπe proizvode. Kakva je konkurencija? - Træiπte za moje proizvode nepregledno je, ali vlada velika konkurencija. Popularnost je mojih putopisnih dokumentaraca u osjeÊaju gledatelja da bi i sami mogli poÊi na sliËno putovanje. Istraæujem stvari koje zanimaju prosjeËne Amerikance i postavljam pitanja koja bi i oni postavili. Uspjeh je mojih ﬁlmova kod mlaeg naraπtaja, rekla bih, oËekivan. Mladi vole otkrivati svijet i nije im teπko zaputiti se u daleko i nepoznato. A starije generacije vole priËe koje im priËam o tim zemljama. Uvelike se trudim u pripremi. Kad sam prvi put doπla u Hrvatsku i ostale zemlje, vodila sam sa sobom kamermana. VeÊ drugi serijal Take off with Ashley Colburne radila sam s lokalnim kamermanom i tonskim snimateljem i lokalnim vodiËima. Sada, kad treÊi put dolazim u te zemlje koje sam veÊ dijelom upoznala, mogu joπ bolje procijeniti πto je doista novo i zanimljivo. Tako, na primjer, sad u Hrvatskoj u vlastitoj produkciji radim sedam jednosatnih emisija koje Êe pokriti cijelu zemlju, ne samo obalni dio. U Hrvatskoj ljudi stavljaju naglasak na more, ali, vjerujte, mnogo je vaænije πto svaki grad, gradiÊ i selo uz more ima i vlastitu tradiciju i atmosferu. Mislim da mi moj pristup jamËi kvalitetu, a u konaËnici o uspjehu ipak odluËuju gledatelji. »ini se kao da ste s Hrvatskom u nekoj osobitoj vezi… - Uistinu je tako. Nagradu Emmy dobila sam za svoj ﬁlm WOWCroatia i, premda æelim snimati po cijelom svijetu, i u svakoj zemlji postoji neπto πto volim, postoje stvari koje me osobito veæu uz Hrvatsku. Prvu nagradu za svoj rad dobila sam u Hrvatskoj dva tjedna prije nego πto sam dobila nagradu Emmy. RijeË je o nagradi Hrvatske turistiËke zajednice Zlatna penkala, koja se dodjeljuje najboljemu inozemnom novinaru. OsjeÊala sam se doista poËaπÊeno. Lijepo je u takvim prigodama moÊi upoznati i druge novinare iz cijelog svijeta, koji poznaju i promiËu Hrvatsku. Kad sam putovala u Hrvatsku po nagradu, bila sam veÊ nominirana za nagradu Emmy i presretna. Tom sam prigodom u Hrvatskoj kupila i haljinu hrvatske kreatorice Branke Donassy, koju sam odjenula za dodjelu nagrade Emmy, i svi su je hvalili. Imate sjajnu modnu industriju. A prije ovog snimanja doπla sam i na kraÊi odmor u Hrvatsku. I opet je rijeË o sluËaju. Proπle zime posjetila sam turistiËki sajam u New

Yorku i tom prigodom dobila na tomboli tjedan dana odmora u Baπki. A i taj mi je odmor baπ trebao. Godina je bila uzbudljiva i naporna i prije poËetka snimanja uæivala sam na Krku tjedan dana. Odmorila sam se, zalijeËila jet leg i doæivjela kao pravi turist Ëari vaπe domovine! Sad snimam tri mjeseca u Hrvatskoj, a onda Êu postprodukciju raditi u Americi. A poslije? Vidjet Êemo! Svijet je doista pun razliËitih moguÊnosti. Samo treba Ëvrsto æeljeti i uvelike se potruditi! n

shley Colburn says that she has always wanted to film a travel series. So she suggested to her editor at Wealth TV to shoot half hour documentary shows from different countries, and the ﬁrst country she decided on was Croatia. Out of the host of photos that her brother had showed her upon his return from travelling around Europe, the photos from Croatia were the most impressive to her. Since

she hardly knew anything about the country, she became more and more interested in Croatia. Many of her fellow countrymen were also ill informed about the country, thus she decided to present Croatia as a well hidden secret. She says that many countries that deal with tourism go overboard with everything; there are too many tourists and the offers are only aimed at the tourists. In Croatia there is still a balance and that is why she feels so comfortable here. She enjoys the people the most, they are very approachable and easy to meet; they always offer a helping hand and really mean it. In front of the cameras, Ashley Colburn appears approachable and cheerful, as if she is really enjoying the story she is sharing with her viewers. Her success strengthened her position at Wealth TV and now she has produced an entire documentary travel series called TakeOff with Ashley Colburn. Croatia, Nicaragua, Macau, Switzerland, Thailand, Turkey, Spain, Italy and CROATIA AIRLINES

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Sweden are just some of the 20 countries where she has already filmed. Even though you are still very young, you leave an impression of someone who knows what they want, and in the past few years you have done some very ambitious work... Did you already know as a child what kind of work you wanted to do? How did you spend that period of your life? - From a very young age I have really loved standing in front of people and reciting stories. Perhaps that is the reason why I was so successful at school competitions for public speaking. When I was in high school I started a television station which broadcast the school’s news, which is still in operation today. I later studied television journalism and Spanish language and literature at the University of Colorado, during which I spent a semester studying abroad in Spain. I grew up in San Diego, California. My father is a veterinarian and my mother is a homemaker, and I also have two brothers and a sister. Our family life was marked by a strong religious life, both parents came from protestant families (their ancestors came from Switzerland and Germany). My father promoted, supported and led the 4H program, which stands for the first letters of the words head, heart, hands, health. From an early age I also raised pigs and sheep that my father gave me to care for, and I won many awards with them. I love to compete and I set very high goals for myself; challenges motivate me and I deal with difficulties quite easily. My family, relatives and many friends lead lives that are full of activities and that has been ingrained in me, while my grandfather and grandmother infected me with the travel bug. They have just recently returned from a three week trip to Africa, even though they are 85 years old. At one time travelling was reserved for nobility; it was like the end of their education, but now everyone travels and more than ever it has become incredibly important to an increasing number of people. Why is that? - Travelling is important because it allows us to discover ourselves and the world around us. We are surrounded by different crises and wars and are bombarded with scenes of violence. Travelling gives us a feeling of freedom. We are more open to different experiences and we can discover that there are miraculous places in the world and places where life is peaceful. I believe that travelling helps us to better understand ourselves and the world. When we travel we are open to different cultures and religions, we respect other people’s customs, which makes a mark on the country we are visiting. The world, to me, is a place filled with different 148

opportunities. I would like to travel around the entire world and show it to people through my show. Also, I really learn a lot on my trips. I see things that help me live my life better. All these various travels seem to be telling me what kind of life I want to lead in the future. The media have a bigger and bigger role in promoting tourism. How much of an impact do they have today? - The relationship between the media and tourism has become very important, and I believe that in great part the media control the tourism industry today. If a country’s presence in the media is insignificant, it is quite likely that it will be visited by few people. The longer I do this job, the more I feel that the media and tourism ignore the people who live in those destinations, and that they do not talk about their lives enough. I love people. I have always been interested in them and their stories. People live their lives, and their stories can encourage and inspire us. That is the focus of my work. I tell stories about how people live and how their lives have been marked by their surroundings, history, food, and how those things have shaped their way of living. I think those stories are the reasons why visitors constantly come back; because the power of the history and culture attracts them. When I am working, I try not to search only for the same old topics. I try to work in a way that the stories find me. That is how it was recently on Rab. I started off by just having a piece of cake in a sweet shop and ended up filming a piece about making cakes from recipes that are more than 800 years old. As an American that always gets my attention. We have an extremely large country, modern highways and great parades, but we do not have traditions that are centuries old, and those are the things that I and my viewers find interesting. I am extremely grateful to Wealth TV for everything they have given me, but it is because of the desire to do things my way and have control of my products that I have recently established my own production house. There is more responsibility, but also more freedom. I love challenges and I am very ambitious! The tourism industry is growing more and more. Please tell us which markets your products are aimed at. What is the competition like? - The market I am dealing with is quite vast, and yet the competition is great. My travel documentaries are so popular because they give my viewers the feeling that they could also set out on similar trips. I explore things that I think the average American would find interesting and I ask the questions that they would ask. I would say that the success of my show was quite expected with the younger

generations. Young people love to explore the world and it is not difficult for them to travel to far and unknown places. The older generation, on the other hand, enjoys the stories I tell about the countries. I work really hard to prepare. The first time I came to Croatia, and to the other countries, I brought a cameraman with me. During the second season of TakeOff with Ashley Colburn I worked with local cameramen, sound recordists and local guides. Now, when I come to those countries which I have already become familiar with, I can better assess what is really new and interesting; for example, I am currently working on a project in Croatia with my own production company that will include 7 one hour shows which will cover the entire country, not only the coastal regions. In Croatia people tend to emphasize the sea, but believe me, it is much more important to uncover the kinds of traditions and atmospheres in each city, town and village along the coast. I believe that my approach guarantees quality, but in the end the viewers will decide if I was successful or not. It seems that you are somehow personally connected with Croatia... - It is true. I won the Emmy Award for my film WOWCroatia and even though I want to film all around the world and I find something I love in every country, there are still some things that connect me with Croatia. I actually received the first award for my work in Croatia, two weeks before I was awarded the Emmy. The Croatia Tourist Board awarded me with the Zlatna Penkala (Golden Pen), which is given to the best foreign journalist. I was truly honoured. That occasion was also special because I was able to meet other journalists from around the world who also know and promote Croatia. When I travelled to Croatia to accept the award, I was beside myself because I had already been nominated for the Emmy. While I was in Croatia I bought a dress by the Croatian designer Branka Donassy which I wore to the Emmy Awards and received many words of praise. You have a wonderful fashion industry. Even before starting to film, I came to Croatia for a short vacation; again coincidentally. Last winter I visited a tourist fair in New York, and there I won a raffle for a one week vacation in Baπka; a vacation I desperately needed. The year had been exciting and exhausting, and before we started filming I enjoyed a week on Krk. I rested, overcame jet lag and enjoyed the magic of your homeland as a tourist! I am currently filming for three months in Croatia and the post production will be done in America. And after? We will see! The world is full of so many opportunities. It just takes a strong will and hard work! n

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KALENDAR DOGA–ANJA U HRVATSKOJ PROSINAC/DECEMBER Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 3.-31.12. Advent na Zrinjevcu, svakodnevni koncerti, prodajni sajam/Advent on Zrinjevac, daily concerts, sales fair - tijekom prosinca posjetite brojna dogaanja na ostalim zagrebaËkim trgovima i ulicama (www.adventzagreb.com) - visit various events on Zagreb’s squares and streets throughout December (www.adventzagreb.com) 16.-30.12. NajboæiÊniji sajam na ZagrebaËkom velesajmu/The Best Christmas Fair at Zagreb Fair

31.12. DoËek nove godine na Trgu bana JelaËiÊa - The New Gypsies (ex Gipsy Kings)/Celebrate New Year’s Eve on Ban JelaËiÊ Square - The New Gypsies (ex Gipsy Kings)

SIJE»ANJ/JANUARY Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 3. i 5.1. Svjetski skijaπki kup za muπkarce i æene VIP Snow Queen Trophy/World Skiing Championship for Men and Women VIP Snow Queen Trophy

26. 2.-4.3. Zagreb Dox Meunarodni festival dokumentarnog ﬁlma/International documentary ﬁlm festival 29. 2. ZagrebaËki solisti u Hrvatskom glazbenom zavodu /Zagreb soloists at the Croatian Institute of Music 11. 2. Inscenacija SeljaËke bune - bitke kod Stubice (Gornja Stubica)/ Reenactment of the Peasants’ Revolt Battle at Stubica (Gornja Stubica) 31.1.-11.2. UEFA Futsal EURO 2012 (mali nogomet)/UEFA Futsal EURO 2012 (indoor football) 17. 1. ZagrebaËki solisti u Hrvatskom glazbenom zavodu/Zagreb soloists at the Croatian Institute of Music 27. 1. NoÊ muzeja/Museum Night 19.-21. 1. Meunarodni tjedan udaraljkaπa u Bjelovaru/ International Percussion Week in Bjelovar

19.12.2011.-15.1.2012. BoæiÊna priËa na imanju obitelji Salaj u Grabovnici u blizini »azme/ The Christmas Story on the estate of the Salaj family in Grabovnica near »azma Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 29.-30.12. Novogodiπnji kup u podvodnom ribolovu u Malom Loπinju/New Year’s Fishing Championship in Mali Loπinj 150

CALENDAR OF EVENTS IN CROATIA

21.1. Vincekovo u Meimurju (Meimurska vinska cesta)/ St. Vincent’s Day in Meimurje (Meimurje Wine Road)

Slavonija i Baranja/Slavonija and Baranja 25.2.-8.3. ©okaËko sijelo u Æupanji/©okac Jamboree in Æupanja Rijeka 11.2. DjeËja karnevalska povorka u srediπtu Rijeke/Children’s Carnival Parade in the centre of Rijeka 19.2. (17.1.-22.2. RijeËki karneval/ Rijeka Carnival) Meunarodna karnevalska povorka u srediπtu Rijeke/ International Carnival Parade in the centre of Rijeka

Dubrovnik 2.-3.2. Festa svetog Vlaha/ Saint Blaise Festival

OŽUJAK/MART Zagreb 1.- 3.3. Trofej zagrebaËkih pahuljica − meunarodno prvenstvo u sinkroniziranom klizanju/Zagreb Snowﬂake Trophy − International Championship in Synchronized Skating 20. 3. ZagrebaËki solisti u Hrvatskom glazbenom zavodu/Zagreb soloists at the Croatian Institute of Music Slavonija i Baranja/Slavonija and Baranja 4.-7.3. Festival dokumentarnog rockﬁlma DORF u Vinkovcima/ Festival of Documentary Rock Film DORF in Vinkovci

VELJA»A/FEBRUARY Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 11.-21. 2. 186. samoborski faπnik / 186th Samobor Carnival 16. 2. Chris Rea u BoÊarskom domu/ Chris Rea in BoÊarski Dom

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Passengers travelling to or through Zurich can travel more simply. Short routes, optimum connections to national and international transport networks, and reliable and punctual service characterize Zurich Airport. This is also the opinion of the travel ř ř » prizes each year. Why not see for yourself. 152

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SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 153 NOVOSTI/NEWS 159 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST/ LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED 162 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU/ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 165 FLOTA/FLEET 167 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA/A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 169 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB/ZAGREB AIRPORT 170 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI/ WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 172 ADRESE/ADDRESSES CROATIA AIRLINES

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IMAMO NOVE WEB STRANICE

Od sredine studenoga u funkciji su nove web stranice Croatia Airlinesa. Na domeni www.croatiaairlines.com moæete se koristiti redizajniranim i funkcionalnijim web stranicama koje Êe vam pomoÊi da lakπe organizirate svoja putovanja zrakoplovom. Nove su web stranice jednostavnije i preglednije za koriπtenje, vizualno poboljπane te potpuno prilagoene potrebama suvremenih putnika, koji u prvom redu æele πto bræe pronaÊi informacije o redu letenja i cijenama, detaljne i raznovrsne informacije o posebnim ponudama, te rezervirati i kupiti zrakoplovnu kartu preko interneta. Unaprijeena je dosadaπnja informacijska struktura pa korisnici veÊ na poËetnoj stranici dobivaju pregled najvaænijih usluga Croatia Airlinesa. U srediπtu je paænje usluga rezervacije letova preko koje putnik vrlo jednostavno i samostalno bira i kreira uvjete putovanja u skladu s osobnim potrebama. Nove web stranice pritom nude pregled planiranog reda letenja zrakoplova Croatia Airlinesa, omoguÊuju jednostavan pristup usluzi web check in za ﬂeksibilnu registraciju za let preko osobnih raËunala u vlastitom domu ili uredu, te putnika usmjeravaju na informacije o aktualnom statusu odabranog leta. Valja naglasiti kako je web check in usluga dostupna 24 sata. Takoer postoji moguÊnost on line rezervacije hotela i transfera, oËekuju vas informacije o Miles&More programu skupljanja milja i niz drugih vama korisnih informacija, kojih Êe iz dana u dan biti sve viπe. Na novim internetskim stranicama Croatia Airlinesa oËekuju vas i kontinuirane ponude povoljnijih cijena zrakoplovnih karata za domaÊa i inozemna odrediπta i detaljne informacije o putovanju i odrediπtima. Takoer se moæete zabaviti sudjelujuÊi u nagradnim igrama i natjeËajima.

CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS The current information structure has been improved so that already on the home page users can see the most important services of Croatia Airlines. The most attention was paid to the service of reserving flights, by which travellers can very simply and independently choose and create their travel conditions in accordance with their personal needs. While at the same time offering an overview of the planned flight schedule for Croatia Airlines, the new web site also allows easy access to the services of web check-in for flexible flight registration via your personal computer in your own home or office, as well as directing passengers to information regarding the current status of selected flights. It is important to highlight that web check-in is available 24 hours a day. It is also possible to make on line reservations for hotels and transfers, as well as get information about the Miles&More programme regarding collecting miles, and other useful information that will increase from day to day. On the new internet web site of Croatia Airlines there are always special offers for flights to domestic and international destinations, as well as detailed information about travel and our destinations. You can also have fun by participating in our sweepstakes and contests. ERSTE NETPAY USLUGA

Croatia Airlines i Erste banka omoguÊili su FlyOnLine korisnicima joπ jednu moguÊnost plaÊanja zrakoplovnih karata. Preko web stranice (www.croatiaairlines.com) svi korisnici sustava elektroniËkog bankarstva

Erste Banke u Hrvatskoj, od poËetka studenoga, mogu sigurno, jednostavno i brzo kupovati zrakoplovne karte. Dovoljno je da se prigodom izbora naËina plaÊanja odabere opcija Erste NetPay. Mnogo je prednosti te usluge: kupnja preko interneta koriπtenjem Erste NetBanking usluge; usluga je besplatna, naplaÊuje se samo regularna naknada za plaÊanje Erste NetBankingom (kao i za svako drugo plaÊanje Erste NetBankingom); brzina i jednostavnost kupnje; plaÊanje u sigurnom okruæju Erste NetBankinga (potrebno je korisniËko ime, zaporka i TAN tablica), bez unosa osobnih podataka, a za koriπtenje ove usluge ne treba nikakva dodatna registracija ni aktivacija Erste NetPay usluge. Iskoristite tu uslugu i kupite svoju kartu πto prije! Uz novi je sustav plaÊanja korisnicima usluga Croatia Airlinesa na raspolaganju i opcija plaÊanja kreditnom karticama (American Express, Visa, Diners, MasterCard i JCB). ERSTE NETPAY SERVICE

Croatia Airlines and Erste Bank offer their FlyOnLine customers one more way to pay for airline tickets. As of the beginning of November, all users of Erste Bank’s electronic banking system in Croatia can buy airline ticket on the web site (www.croatiaairlines.com) safely, simply and quickly. When you have the opportunity to select the method of payment, it is enough to select the option Erste NetPay. There are many advantages of the services of buying over the internet using Erste Net-

OUR NEW WEB SITE

Croatia Airlines’ new web site has been in operation since mid November. At the domain www.croatiaairlines.com you can use the redesigned and more functional web site to help you organize your air travel more easily. The new web site is simpler and easier to use, it has been visually improved and has been completely adapted to the needs of the modern traveller, who first and foremost wants to quickly find information regarding flight schedules and prices, details and various information about specials offers, as well as reserve and buy airline tickets on the internet. 154

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CROATIA AIRLINES NOVOSTI

CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS

Banking services: the service is free, you only pay the regular fee for using Erste NetBanking (just like any other payment using Erste NetBanking); fast and simple purchasing; payments are made within the secure environment of Erste NetBanking without entering personal data (it is necessary to have a user name, password and TAN tablet); and to use these services you do not need to register additionally or activate Erste NetPay services. Use these services and buy your tickets as soon as possible! Along with the new payment system, the users of Croatia Airlines’ services also have access to the option to pay by credit card (American Express, Visa, Diners, MasterCard and JCB). NOVE ODREDBE ZA PRIJEVOZ PRTLJAGE

Sa zimskim redom letenja uvedene su nove odredbe za prijevoz prtljage. Prije su putnici imali pravo na besplatni prijevoz prtljage do odreene teæine (u meunarodnom prometu 30 kg za poslovni razred i 20 kg za ekonomski razred, te u domaÊem prometu 20 kg za poslovni i 15 za ekonomski razred), bez obzira na to koliko komada prtljage nose sa sobom. Po novim propisima u poslovnom se razredu sada dopuπta besplatan prijevoz dva komada prtljage (maksimalne teæine 32 kg po komadu) te jednog komada prtljage u ekonomskom razredu (maksimalne teæine do 23 kg). U domaÊem prometu besplatno se moæe prevesti jedan komad prtljage maksimalne teæine 20 kg u poslovnome i 15 kg u ekonomskom razredu. Novi se propisi odnose i na prtljagu nestandardiziranih dimenzija, kao πto su npr. sportski rekviziti, glazbeni instrumenti i sl. Primjenjuju se na letovima na kojima je Croatia Airlines operativni prijevoznik. NEW REGULATIONS FOR LUGGAGE TRANSPORTATION

Along with the winter flight schedule new regulations for luggage transportation were introduced. Previously, passengers had the right to free luggage transportation up to a determined weight (on international ﬂights it was 30 kg in business class and 20 kg in economy class, and on domestic ﬂights it was 20 kg in business class and 15 kg in economy class) regardless of how many pieces of luggage. According to the new regulations, in business class you are now allowed free luggage transportation of two pieces of luggage (maximum weight of 32 kg each), and one piece of luggage in economy class (maximum weight of 23 kg).

On domestic ﬂights you can carry one piece of luggage for free, with a maximum weight of 20 kg in business class and 15 kg in economy class. New regulations have also been introduced on non-standard sizes of luggage, such as sports equipment, musical instruments and similar. This applies to ﬂight in which Croatia Airlines is the operating carrier. STAR ALLIANCE: UVEDENA FAREFINDER APLIKACIJA

Potkraj kolovoza Star Alliance postala je prva udruga zraËnih prijevoznika, koja je uvela jednostavnu i lako uporabljivu mobilnu aplikaciju za pronalaæenje najpovoljnijih cijena zrakoplovnih karata. Poπto je prije toga uveden Navigator za iPhone, uporaba nove FareFinder aplikacije omoguÊuje klijentima pretraæivanje cijena jednosmjernih i povratnih karata izmeu bilo kojih dviju zraËnih luka u mreži Star Alliance. Kako bi se dobile informacije koje najbolje odgovaraju klijentovim æeljama, aplikacija omoguÊava dodatne kriterije pretrage kao πto su broj putnika, vremena dolaska ili odlaska, razredi usluge, broj presjedanja, transfernih zraËnih luka i prodajnih mjesta. Aplikacija takoer prikazuje raspoloæivost sjedala u zrakoplovu pa putnici mogu odabrati zraËnog prijevoznika ili prijevoznike s kojima æele putovati. SlijedeÊi upute aplikacije FareFinder, klijenti zatim mogu obaviti rezervaciju preko odgovarajuÊega pozivnog centra ili mreænih stranica zraËnog prijevoznika. Aplikaciju Star Alliance FareFinder razvio je i odræava ITA Software, a dostupna je za besplatno preuzimanje na engleskom jeziku na adresi www.staralliance.com ili u distribucijskom

sustavu za aplikacije, Apple app storeu. U bliæoj buduÊnosti oËekuju se nove verzije za druge operativne sustave. STAR ALLIANCE: FAREFINDER APPLICATION INTRODUCED

At the end of August, Star Alliance became the ﬁrst alliance of airline carriers which introduced a simple and easy to use mobile application to search for the cheapest airline tickets. Having previously introduced Navigator for iPhone, using the new FareFinder application enables customers to search for prices of one-way and return tickets between any two airports in the Star Alliance network. In order to get the information that best suits the clients’ needs, the application allows you to enter additional criteria to the search, such as the number of passengers, the arrival and departure times, services in the different classes, number of connecting ﬂights, transfer airports and selling points. The application also shows the availability of seats on the airplane and passengers can choose which air carrier or carriers they wish to travel with. By following the directions on the FareFinder application, clients can then make reservations through the appropriate call centre or on the web site of the air carrier. The Star Alliance FareFinder application was developed and is maintained by ITA Software. The FareFinder application is available for free and can be downloaded in English from the web site www.staralliance. com or from the distribution system for applications, Apple App Store. New versions for other operating systems are expected in the near future. CROATIA AIRLINES

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OUR STAFF AT YOUR SERVICE

Biba meu parfemima Amidst Perfumes Piše/By Ana ΔulimoviÊ

Biserka KoËman, specijalist konsignacije i zastupstva a predstavljanje naπe kolegice Biserke KoËman u naπemu putnom Ëasopisu potaknula nas je naπa dizajnerica, koja je izjavila kako je Biserka dobri duh Croatia Airlinesa, bez koje naπa tvrtka zacijelo ne bi bila ista. Naπa uvijek nasmijeπena i optimistiËna kolegica Biserka u Croatia Airlinesu je od 1993. godine, a prije toga radila je u raËunovodstvu ZraËne luke Zagreb, dakle, oduvijek je vezana uz podruËje zrakoplovstva. Zaduæena je za tzv. Duty Free ponudu na meunarodnim letovima, odnosno za nabavu robe, asortiman, distribuciju u zrakoplove i prodaju. Radni joj se dan stoga temelji na komunikaciji s dobavljaËima, osobljem u skladiπtu i kabinskim osobljem, koje prodaje bescarinsku robu. Uslugu u naπim zrakoplovima svakako upotpunjuje raskoπna ponuda nakita, satova, kravata i rubaca, cigareta, piÊa, igraËaka i Ëokolada… Na meunarodnim letovima, po znatno povoljnijoj cijeni, oËekuje vas vrhunska ponuda parfema renomiranih svjetskih kozmetiËkih kuÊa (Bulgari, Calvin Klein, Yves Saint- Laurent, Dior, Armani, Davidoff i sl.). Naπa kolegica nastoji nabaviti novitete koje Êete pronaÊi u ponudi na letu. Kolegica Biba i njezina suradnica Nina rado se prisjeÊaju sljedeÊe anegdote. Naime, proπle je godine u katalogu Duty free ponude objavljena slika crvene kravate Croata s ornamentom glagoljice i otad naπi putnici uglavnom æele upravo takvu kravatu. Stoga je kolegica pri nabavi traæila veÊe koliËine baπ takve kravate, na πto su u Croati komentirali da Êe nam putnici biti uniﬁcirani! Ipak, smijeπeÊi se, kaæu

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Naπa uvijek nasmijeπena i optimistiËna kolegica Biserka zaduæena je za tzv. Duty Free ponudu na meunarodnim letovima, odnosno za nabavu robe, asortiman, distribuciju u zrakoplove i prodaju. Uvijek nastoji nabaviti novitete, koje Êete pronaÊi u ponudi na letu. Our always smiling and optimistic colleague Biserka is responsible for the so called Duty Free offer on international flights that is, for purchasing the goods, choosing the assortment, organizing distribution in the airplanes and sales. She always endeavours to ensure that our passengers find the latest products on our flights. da se to neÊe dogoditi, jer su koliËine kravata ograniËene i s razliËitim uzorcima. Kompletan asortiman moæete pronaÊi u katalogu Duty Free ponude, koji se nalazi u zrakoplovima, i na novoj web stranici www.croatiaairlines.com, a æeljeni se proizvod, posljednjih godina, takoer moæe unaprijed naruËiti i preko web stranice. ■ Biserka KoËman, Consignment and Foreign Trade Specialist he interview with our colleague Biserka KoËman was prompted by our designer who said that Biserka was the good spirit of Croatia Airlines, that without her our company would not be the same, and that we should feature her in our magazine. Our always smiling and optimistic colleague Biserka has been a part of Croatia Airlines since 1993, and prior to that she worked in the accounting department of Zagreb Airport, therefore always having a connection with the aviation industry. She is responsible for the so called Duty Free offer on international flights; that is, for purchasing the goods, choosing the assortment, organizing distribution in the airplanes and sales. Her work day is therefore based on communicating with suppliers, with the employees

in the warehouse and with the cabin crews who sell the duty free items. The service in our airplanes includes the offer of luxurious jewellery, watches, ties and scarves, cigarettes, drinks, toys and chocolates... Top brand perfumes by world famous cosmetics companies (Bulgari, Calvin Klein, Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, Armani, Davidoff etc.) are available at very attractive prices on our international flights. We always endeavour to ensure that our passengers find the latest products on our flights. Our buyers, Biba and her associate Nina, like to tell the following anecdote. In last year’s Duty free catalogue there was a picture of a red Croata tie with a Glagolitic design, which became a hit with our passengers. So Biba and Nina ordered a larger quantity of this particular tie, at which the Croata company remarked that it would look as if our passengers were wearing a uniform! But they hastened to add that this will not happen since there is a limited quantity of ties with the same pattern. The complete assortment can be found in the catalogue Duty Free which is located onboard our airplanes and on our new web site www.croatiaairlines.com. For a few years now, desired products can also be pre-ordered on our web site. ■

Romeo IbriševiÊ

NAŠI ZAPOSLENICI VAMA NA USLUZI

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NU RU A L M ČO IZBO O K SVA ANJE P ETS G V O BER OICE PUT M ME F CH H C EA TRIP O A

SUPERBRANDS PREDSTAVLJA

SHOPPING CLUB SUPERBRANDS PRESENTS

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OSNOVE MILES & MORE PROGRAMA

INTRODUCING MILES & MORE

Miles & More najveÊi je program nagraivanja putnika u Europi i nudi Ëlanovima razliËite moguÊnosti prikupljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih partnera u programu. Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija partnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kartica Miles & More.

Miles & More is the greatest frequent ﬂyer programme in Europe offering its members numerous possibilities for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many attractive privileges. Members collect miles by using the services of many partners in the programme. Miles are credited for ﬂights of all Star Alliance members and other airline partners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car partners or staying in participating hotels.

Zatraæite svoju Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu! 5 kuna = 1milja - za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko ove kartice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja n Dvostru ke milje - osvajate za plaÊanje turistiËkih aranæmana i zrakoplovnih karata u Diners Club Travelu n Prikupljajte nagradne milje svugdje - jednostavno plaÊajte svojom Diners Club karticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu. n Osvojite joπ viπe milja - koriπtenje ostalih pogodnosti Diners Cluba poput besplatnih online usluga, e-plaÊanja ili trajnih naloga donosi vam dodatne milje. n 2 kartice - 1 raËun Miles & More - koristite se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom karticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More.

Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card! n 5 HRK = 1mile - for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1mile. n Earn double miles - for paying package tours and flight tickets at Diners Club Travel n Collect award miles ever ywhere - simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC offices in Croatia or abroad n Collect extra award miles - by using other Diners Club benefits, such as free online services, internet banking and e-paying, standing orders etc. n 2 credit cards - 1 Miles & More membership account - use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account.

Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu! Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club objavili su, osim companion kreditnih karica (poslovnih i privatnih), i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potroπnja od 13 kuna na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles and More milju, a za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu se preko kartica u paru dobiva 1 nagradna Miles and More milja.

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card! Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club have issued, besides a companion credit card (both business and private), a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles and More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles and More award mile will be credited to your account.

Zatraæite svoju kreditnu karticu Croatia Airlines American Express! n 4 kune = 1 milja - za svake 4 kune potroπene preko Premium kartice biljeæi se 1 nagradna milja, odnosno za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko Standard kartice n 2500 milja dobrodoπlice - za nove osnovne Premium korisnike i 1250 milja dobodoπlice za nove dodatne Premium korisnike n 1500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard korisnike i 750 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Standard korisnike n Dvostruke nagradne milje - za potroπnju u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i Jumbo Travel Services PBZ Carda n UËlanjenje u Priority Pass bez naknade te pristup u viπe od 450 VIP salona u zraËnim lukama

Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express credit card! n 4 HRK = 1mile - for every 4 HRK spent via Premium card, you collect 1mile, and for every 5 HRK spent via Standard card you collect 1 mile. n 2.500 welcome miles - for new basic Premium card users and 1.250 welcome miles for new additional Premium card users. n 1.500 welcome miles - for new basic Standard card users and 750 welcome miles for new additional Standard card users. n Earn double award miles - using the card to pay for travels at Croatia Airlines sales ofﬁces and Jumbo Travel Services of PBZ Card. n Free Priority Pass enrollment- it enables you to access into more than 450 VIP airport lounges

Razredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti Koriπtenjem usluga partnera u programu prikupljate nagradne milje koje zamjenjujete za nagrade i statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status i pogodnosti πto ih ostvarujete. Statusne milje prikupljaju se redovitim letovima sljedeÊih zrakoplovnih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Lufthansa Regional i Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS i svi zrakoplovni partneri iz mreæe Star Alliance, te Cirrus Airlines, Air Dolomiti i Luxair. Svaka tako ostvarena milja biljeæi se i kao statusna i kao nagradna milja. Milje HON Circle statusne su milje koje se prikupljaju letovima sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Lufthansa Regional i Lufthansa Private Jet), Luxair i Swiss International Airlines.

Tiers and benefits By using the Miles & More partners’ services members collect award miles, which are traded in for awards; and status miles, which determine a member’s membership status and privileges. Status miles can be accrued on scheduled flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, all Star Alliance partners, Cirrus Airlines, Air Dolomiti and Luxair. Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status and an award mile. HON Circle miles are status miles that you collect on flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), Luxair and Swiss International Airlines.

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Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendarskoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller, a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini oËekuje vas status Senator. »lanovi koji prikupe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u razdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalendarske godine, stjeËu status HON Circle.

With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year members earn the Frequent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, earn the HON Circle status.

Pogodnosti statusa Frequent Traveller - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja na zaista prijeeni ili standardni iznos za letove sljedeÊih kompanija: Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Lufthansa Regional i Lufthansa Private Jet), Adria Airways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Croatia Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, SWISS, US Airways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair i Continental - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - uporaba Lufthansa Business Class Loungea prilikom letova s nekom od Ëlanica Star Alliancea - prednost na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog razreda - 40 kg prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji

Frequent Traveller privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent on the actual flown miles or standard mileage amounts on flights operated by Luf thansa (including Luf thansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), Adria Air ways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Croatia Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, SWISS, US Air ways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair and Continental. - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Use of the Lufthansa Business Class Lounges while flying with a Star Alliance Member - Waiting list priority - Check-in at the Lufthansa Business Class counter - Free baggage allowance of 40 kg depending on the destination and the airline

Pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja na zaista prijeeni ili standardni iznos za letove sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Lufthansa Regional i Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Airways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair i Continental. - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - predujam od 50.000 milja - uporaba Lufthansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold Lounge partnera u Star Allianceu - viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog razreda - osigurano mjesto na letu za rezervacije do 48 sati odnosno do 72 sata unaprijed, ovisno o razredu putovanja - 50 posto manje milja za suputnika na nagradnom letu, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dodatnih 20 kg ili dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dva elektronska vauËera za premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), te joπ dva za svako zadræavanje statusa

Senator privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent on the actual flown miles or standard mileage amounts on flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Luf thansa (including Luf thansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Air ways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair and Continental. - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - 50,000 miles in advance - Access to the Lufthansa Senator Lounge as well as to the Star Gold Lounges of Star Alliance partners - High waiting list priority - First Class check-in - Booking guarantee up to 48 or 72 hours in advance depending on the booking class - A 50 per cent mileage discount for an accompanying person on flight awards depending on the airline - Additional 20 kg baggage allowance or an additional bag depending on the destination and the airline - 2 electronic upgrade vouchers and two more for every status retention HON Circle privileges - All existing Senator privileges - Executive bonus of 25 per cent - 100,000 miles in advance - Senator status for your spouse or partner depending on the airline - 6 electronic Upgrade Vouchers and 6 more for every status retention - Additional benefits offered by Miles & More partners, rounding off the travel experience

Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle - sve pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus od 25 posto - predujam od 100.000 milja - Status Senator za supruænika ili partnera, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - πest elektronskih vauËera za premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), te joπ šest prigodom zadræavanja statusa - dodatne pogodnosti koje nude partneri programa osiguravajuÊi jedinstveno iskustvo putovanja Troπite milje Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge nagrade: nagradne karte, premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), razliËite nagrade kojima se moæete koristiti pri putovanju (hotelski smjeπtaj, unajmljivanje vozila). 160

Spend miles You can exchange collected award miles for awards prepared for you: award tickets, upgrades, various travel awards.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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nag igra_kupon1.ai

12/12/2011

06:03

Croatia Airlines nagrauje autora najoriginalnije fotografije.

Ljubica TomiÊ

Fotografirajte i otputujte Letite Croatia Airlinesom, fotografirajte i osvojite zrakoplovne karte. Autor najoriginalnije fotografije bit Êe nagraen dvjema povratnim meunarodnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa.

Zaπto volite putovati ? Budite kreativni. Fotografijom i jednom reËenicom izrazite zaπto volite putovanja. Najbolju fotografiju izabrat Êe Sluæba promotivnih aktivnosti Croatia Airlinesa, a fotografiju Êemo objaviti u sljedeÊem broju putnog Ëasopisa. Crno-bijele, fotografije u boji ili dijapozitive dostavite do 10. veljaËe 2012. godine na adresu: Croatia Airlines, Sluæba promotivnih aktivnosti, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, Hrvatska. Ne zaboravite priloæiti kupon s dna stranice.

" g.

ga

gica

Uvjeti nagradne igre: - fotografije postaju vlasniπtvo Croatia Airlinesa - Croatia Airlines ne preuzima nikakvu odgovornost u sluËaju gubitka materijala - Croatia Airlines zadræava pravo koriπtenja fotografija u promidæbenim materijalima Croatia Airlinesa bez naknade - nagrada ne moæe biti zamijenjena za novac - djelatnici Croatia Airlinesa te Ëlanovi njihove uæe obitelji nemaju pravo sudjelovanja u nagradnoj igri

nag igra_kupon2.ai

12/12/2011

06:03

Croatia Airlines is rewarding the author of the most original photograph.

Lina Ernjak

Take a photo and travel Fly Croatia Airlines, take photographs and win two air tickets. The winner will receive 2 Croatia Airlines international round trip tickets.

Why do you love to travel ? Be creative. In one sentence and a single photograph express why you love to travel. Selection of the most original photograph will be made by the Croatia Airlines Promotion Department and the photograph will be published in the next issue of our inflight magazine. You should send us your B/W or color photographs and/or slides by 10th February 2012 to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Promotion Department, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, Croatia. Do not forget to include the coupon from the page bottom.

" Mr.

Mrs.

Miss.

NAME SURNAME DATE OF BIRTH ADDRESS POSTAL CODE CITY COUNTRY TEL. NO. E-MAIL Conditions for participation: - photographs become the property of Croatia Airlines - Croatia Airlines does not assume any responsibility in case of the possible loss of the material - Croatia Airlines reserves the right to use the material in the Croatia Airlines promotional activities and materials, without an additional payment. - reward cannot be exchanged for money - employees of Croatia Airlines as well as the members of their immediate families, are not allowed to participate

pristup-hrvatski:pristup-hrvatski 2010.06.09 09:14 Page 1

Miles & More Broj leta/ Flight number

TrenutaËni let/Current flight Broj karte/Document number

Klasa knjiæenja/ Booking class

Datum polaska/Date of departure Linija (npr. Frankfurt–Pariz)/Route (e.g. Frankfurt–Paris)

Adresa (molimo vas da navedete samo jednu adresu)/ Address (please state only one address) ga/Ms

g./Mr

Titula/Title

Telefon/Telephone

KuÊna/ Home Ime/First name

Poslovna/ Business Prezime/Surname

Poπtanski pretinac/PO Box

Ulica i broj/Street and number

Grad/Town

Razred putovanja/ Service class Economy Class Business Class First Class

Dræava/Country

Molimo vas da unesete ime kompanije/Please enter name of company here

Poπtanski broj/Postcode

Datum roenja/Date of birth Dan/ Mjesec/ Day Month

Godina/ Year

Odjel/Department

Mobilni telefon/Mobile number Privatni/ Home

Poslovni/ Business

Ovime potvrujem* da od sljedeÊih (dolje oznaËenih) kompanija æelim primati SMS poruke s vaænim i najnovijim informacijama u vezi s mojim letom tijekom putovanja. /I hereby give my permission* for the following listed companies (ticked below) to send me important and up-to-date information regarding my travel itinerary by SMS during my travels. Deutsche Lufthansa AG, kompanija iz koncerna Lufthansa ili kompanije koje sudjeluju u programu Miles & More (ukljuËujuÊi Croatia Airlines) Deutsche Lufthansa AG, a company of the Lufthansa Group or joint operators of the Miles & More programme (including Croatia Airlines)

Drugi partneri programa Miles & More Other Miles & More partner corporations

e-mail adresa/E-mail address Privatna/ Home

Poslovna/ Business

Ovime potvrujem* da od sljedeÊih (dolje oznaËenih) kompanija æelim elektronskom poπtom primati obavijesti o ponudama, promocijama, novim uslugama i drugim zanimljivim temama vezanima uz Lufthansu, grupu Lufthansa i partnerske kompanije. /I hereby give my permission* for the following listed companies (ticked below) to send me information by e-mail about offers, promotions, new services and other interesting topics from Lufthansa, the Lufthansa Group, as well as partner corporations. Deutsche Lufthansa AG, kompanija iz koncerna Lufthansa ili kompanije koje sudjeluju u programu Miles & More (ukljuËujuÊi Croatia Airlines) Drugi partneri programa Miles & More Deutsche Lufthansa AG, a company of the Lufthansa Group or joint operators of the Miles & More programme (including Croatia Airlines) Other Miles & More partner corporations

Uvjete Ëlanstva u programu Miles & More moæete pronaÊi na web stranicama www.miles-and-more.com ili www.lufthansa.com. Ova vas prijava ne obvezuje ni na koji naËin. Ne budete li viπe htjeli primati obavijesti o naπim posebnim ponudama, u svakom trenutku moæete povuÊi pristanak za koriπtenje vaπih osobnih podataka u promotivne svrhe pozivom na telefonski broj + 49-1805-5959 (€0.12/min. preko fiksne mreæe u NjemaËkoj) * Znam da dopuπtenje dano Deutsche Lufthansi AG mogu povuÊi u svakom trenutku.

Poljski/ Polish

Japanski/ Japanese

Conditions of participation in our Frequent Flyer Programme Miles & More can be obtained on request on the Internet at www.miles-and-more.com and www.lufthansa.com This registration places you under no obligation. If you no longer wish to receive our special offers, you can withdraw your permission to use your personal information for advertising purposes by contacting us on +49 -18 05 - 59 59 (€ 0.12/min. from a German landline). * I am aware that I can revoke this permission from Deutsche Lufthansa AG at any time.

Odabrani naËin komunikacije za Miles & More News i izvjeπtaj o stanju milja na raËunu/Preferred means of communication for Miles & More News and Miles & More account statements: Elektronski/ Poπtom/ Online Post

POU01

Jezik za komunikaciju/Preferred correspondence language Engleski/ Francuski/ Talijanski/ NjemaËki/ English French Italian German

Datum/Date

Potpis/Signature

Jednostavno je prijaviti se za Ëlanstvo: • preko interneta na web stranici www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • poπtom • telefaksom na broj +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 • kod osoblja u zrakoplovu Bit Êe nam zadovoljstvo ubiljeæiti vam milje za trenutaËni let kao i za bilo koji drugi let koji ste ostvarili u posljednjih 6 mjeseci s Croatia Airlinesom, kompanijom Lufthansa ili nekim drugim partnerom u programu. Molimo vas da gore unesete podatke o trenutaËnom letu. Retroaktivno ubiljeæavanje milja za druge letove moæete zatraæiti na stranici www.miles-and-more.com. Molimo vas da uvijek Ëuvate originalnu kartu za ulazak u zrakoplov (boarding pass) i kopiju putne karte dok vam se milje ne ubiljeæe na raËun.

It’s so easy to register: • Online at www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • By fax +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200

• By post • With one of your flight attendants

We will be happy to credit your account with the miles for this flight and for any other flights taken in the last 6 months with Croatia Airlines, Lufthansa or another Miles & More partner. Enter your current flight above. To have the miles for the other flights credited to your account, go to www.miles-and-more.com. Please retain your original boarding card and passenger receipt (copy of your ticket) until the miles have been credited to your account.

pristup-hrvatski:pristup-hrvatski 2010.06.09 09:14 Page 2

Razred putovanja/ Service class

Klasa knjiæenja/ Booking class

Miles & More – veÊ sad poËnite prikupljati milje

Broj leta/ Flight number

Broj karte/

Miles & More – start collecting miles now

Document number

LUFTPOST

Prostor za marku.

PAR AVION PRIORITAIRE

Please affix stamp here.

RÉPONSE PUBLICITAIRE/ANTWORT ALLEMAGNE Miles & More Postfach 14 34 33309 Gütersloh ALLEMAGNE

»im se poËnete koristiti svojom privremenom karticom Miles & More, milje Êe vam se biljeæiti na raËun. Molimo vas da pri svakoj rezervaciji navedete broj svoje kartice Miles & More. Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. Milje za danaπnji let bit Êe vam ubiljeæene na raËun ako na prednju stranu unesete sve potrebne podatke o letu.

Ime/First name

Miles will start landing in your account immediately after you start to use your temporary Miles & More Card. Please remember to state your personal Miles & More number every time you make a reservation. You will receive your proper Miles & More Card once you have collected one mile.

Prezime/Surname

We will credit the miles for your current flight to your account once you have provided all the details of the current flight on the front.

Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. We will send you your regular Miles & More Card as soon as you have earned one mile.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU UPORABA TELEFONSKIH NAPRAVA Sadaπnje odredbe zabranjuju uporabu odreenih prenosivih elektronskih naprava tijekom komercijalnih letova, zbog moguÊnosti ometanja navigacijske i komunikacijske opreme. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa zabranjena je uporaba ovih elektronskih naprava: prijenosnih telefona, komercijalnih dvovalnih prijenosnika (npr. walkie talkie); amaterskih prijenosnih ureaja; CB prijenosnih ureaja: prijenosnih ureaja koji emitiraju RF energiju na odreenoj frekvenciji, perifernih ureaja za raËunala ili igre. Ovi se ureaji mogu rabiti kad zrakoplov nije na pisti, uzletu, poËetnom penjanju, prilazu ili fazama slijetanja: osobna raËunala (periferni ureaji kao πto su πtampaËi, vanjski disc driveovi itd. nisu dopuπteni); osobna raËunala s igrama, VHF skenerski prijamnici; CD diskovi; kasetofoni, videorekorderi; kalkulatori. SljedeÊi ureaji mogu se rabiti sve vrijeme: sluπni aparati, ugraeni medicinski aparati, elektronski satovi, elektronski stimulatori æivaca.

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI

RU»NA PRTLJAGA

Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima. Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

Sva Ëekirana prtljaga mora imati putnikovo ime. Besplatne oznake za prtljagu mogu se dobiti u svim prodajnim uredima Croatia Airlinesa. Oznaku za prtljagu stavite i unutar prtljage. Sve vrijedne stvari i predmete nosite sa sobom u zrakoplov. Osobnu ruËnu prtljagu odloæite iznad svojeg sjedala ili ispod njega, tako da teæi komadi idu ispod, a lakπi iznad, a da istodobno ne smeta drugim putnicima i posadi zrakoplova.

Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije. UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi.

RED SJEDENJA Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo. 162

UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima. PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja. Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta.

Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva.

USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U zrakoplovu raspolaæemo razliËitim vrstama alkoholnih i bezalkoholnih piÊa, kojima Êe vas stjuardese posluæiti zajedno s jelom. Prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed, moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka (oznaka: SPML), kao npr. vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed. Ako ste naruËili poseban obrok, molimo vas da o tome na vrijeme izvijestite osoblje. Putnicima nije dopušteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Osoblje zrakoplova neÊe posluæiti alkoholna piÊa alkoholiziranim putnicima. Prije slijetanja osoblje Êe ukloniti sve πalice i Ëaπe. Puπenje nije dopuπteno tijekom cijelog leta, a u toaletima postoje i detektori za dim, koji se aktiviraju u sluËaju puπenja.

MEDICINSKA POMOΔ U zrakoplovu imamo priruËnu ljekarnu sa svim potrebnim lijekovima za prvu pomoÊ (s lijekovima protiv bolova, ﬂasterima i ostalim osnovnim medicinskim sredstvima). Za medicinsku pomoÊ obratite se kabinskom osoblju.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT SKY - SHOP U avionu moæete kupiti bescarinsku robu. Što se tiËe cijena, obratite se domaÊici zrakoplova. Roba se moæe platiti u sljedeÊim konvertibilnim valutama: euro, ameriËki dolar, funta, πvicarski franak i u nacionalnoj valuti kunama, te sljedeÊim karticama: Diners, Visa, American Express i EuroMaster Card. Zbog teæine aviona ili trenutaËnog nedostatka prostora ponuda moæe biti ograniËena, pa vas molimo da to uzmete u obzir. ■

DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our first and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests. With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services. Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inﬂight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

luggage must be stowed under the passenger seat or in the overhead compartment - heavy pieces below and lighter above the seat - in a way not to disturb other passengers or the cabin crew.

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole flight. Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the flight.

Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the ﬂight, please return to it before each landing.

BAGGAGE

RESTRICTED ITEMS

All checked-in baggage must have the passenger’s name on the outside. Free identification cards are available at all OU ticket offices. We suggest that you place an identification tag inside your luggage as well. Carry all valuable and important items with you on the plane. Hand

The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage. Such items are: explosives, ﬂammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons, ﬁrearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers.

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking ﬂights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.

SEAT ASSIGNMENT

Both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are available on board and are served with your meal. If you wish to order a special kind of meal such as vegeterian, dietary etc., you can do so when buying your ticket but must be 24 hours in advance. Kosher meals should be ordered 48 hours in advance. Make sure that your ﬂight attendant is aware that you have ordered a special meal. Passengers are prohibited from consuming their own alcoholic beverages on board. The cabin crew are instructed to discontinue serving passengers who appear to be intoxicated. All cups and glasses will be removed from the passenger areas prior to take-off and landing. Smoking is not permitted on any of Croatia Airlines’ ﬂights. A fresh air vent and smoke detectors are located in toilletes and will be activated if smoking.

USE OF ELECTRONIC DEVICES Current regulations prohibit the use of certain types of portable electronic devices (PFDs) on board commercial flights, due to potential interference with navigational and communications equipment. On Croatia Airlines’ flights it is prohibited to use the following electronic devices: cellular telephones, commercial twoway transmitters (e. g., walkie-talkies); amateur radio transmitters; Citizen Band (CB) transmitters; 49-MHz transmitters, devices designed to radiate RF energy on a specific frequency; peripheral devices for computers or computer games.The following devices may be used when the aircraft is not in the taxiing, take-off, initial climb, approach or landing phases: personal computers (cable-connected peripheral devices such as printers, external disc drives, etc. are not permitted); personal computer games, VHS scanner receivers; compact disc players; cassette tape players; video recorders; calculators. The following may be operated at all times: hearing aids, implanted medical devices, electronic watches, electronic nerve stimulators.

Please read the instructions below, important for your safety and comfort during the ﬂight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your ﬂight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

SERVICE ON BOARD

MEDICAL AID Painkillers, Band Aid and other essential medical items are kept on the aircraft. Ask your ﬂight attendant should you need any assistance.

SKY SHOP Duty free goods can be paid for in major currencies such as: Euro, US Dollar, British Pounds, Swiss Franks and national currency Kuna, whilst Diners, Visa, American Express and Euro-Master Card are also welcome. ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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Ethiopian Airlines has joined 26 other world-class airlines. So whether I’m running marathons or my global business, it’s now easier to travel throughout Africa and beyond. I’ve earned it.

H a i l e Ge b re s e l a s s i e 4 times world champion athlete, holder of 27 world records and Star Alliance Gold Status.

staralliance.com

164

CROATIA AIRLINES

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FLOTA

FLEET Zrakoplovi A320-200, A319-100, i Dash8 - Q400 Ëine naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of A320-200, A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

A320-200

A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m /ft )

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

(1 unajmljen / 1 leased)

A320-200

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnog i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednog do drugog leta. One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

A319-100

Dash 8-Q400

Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje. Raspored poslovnog i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednog do drugog leta. One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking. CROATIA AIRLINES

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A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

St. Petersburg ABERDEEN EDINBURG BELFAST DUBLIN

MANCHESTER

Chisinau LYON

VENICE

Turin

Genoa MADRID

RIJEKA

OSIJEK BELGRADE Bucharest

BRA» Bari

Palermo Catania

ATENA

TEL AVIV

Partneri / Partners:

bmi

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...will warm your hearts during the holidays!

ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD 168

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ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

ZAGREB AIRPORT

Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21

International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

2 Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7

Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike

P C

Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A”

Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima

Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”

B S B

Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte

TAKSI BUS

CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije

Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

Restaurant Faust VranËiÊ

Panoramic View Panoramski pogled

Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila

Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica

Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica

Coffee Bar Kavana

Flight Information Informacije o letovima

Customs Control Carinska kontrola

Bar

Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije

Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina

Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks)

Newstand Novinarnica

Baggage Prtljaga

Passport Control Kontrola putovnica

Shops Prodavaonice

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.

5.00 5.30 6.00 6.30

U DUBROVNIKU autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 60 minuta prije leta. Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova. In DUBROVNIK airport buses leave 90 minutes before the ﬂight, and in ZADAR 60 minutes before the ﬂight. The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing. Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) - Zagreb (zraËna luka) - Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) Rijeka - Polazak u 15.30 sati. Cijena karte u jednom smjeru: 145 kuna. Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) - Zagreb Airport - Departure at 5.00. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport - Rijeka - Departure at 15.30. Price of a one-way ticket: 145 Kunas.

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb (do 29. listopada 2011.): Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb (until 29 October 2011): 7.00 7.30 8.00 8.30

9.00 10.00 11.00 11.30

12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30

14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30

16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30

18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30

20.00

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 8.00 8.30

9.00 9.30 10.30

11.30 12.00 12.30

13.00 13.30 14.00

14.30 15.00 15.30

16.00 16.30 17.00

17.30 18.00 18.30

19.00 19.30 20.00

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, 098 472-539, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn. The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas. Autobusi iz ZAGREBA polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova. Bus departures in ZAGREB are an hour and a half prior for domestic ﬂights and two hours prior for international ﬂights.

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ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI? Dragi putnici! Zahvaljujemo svima vama koji ste nam poslali fotografije i pozivamo i ostale da se pridruæe u sudjelovanju. Osim izvrsne zabave prilikom fotografiranja, najboljeg autora oËekuju i vrijedne nagrade − dvije povratne zrakoplovne karte za odrediπte po izboru na letovima Croatia Airlinesa. Vjerujemo da se veselite zimi, Ëarobnom ugoaju koji nam pruæa i snjeænim radostima. Autoricu fotografije Kseniju ŠkoriÊ odabrali smo kao najbolju u ovome broju te je nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa. Promidæbenim poklon-paketom nagradit Êemo Dinu Šimeka i Danijelu ©imaniÊ. Pozivamo vas da nam nastavite slati svoje fotografije jer vas i u iduÊem broju oËekuju vrijedne nagrade. Danijela ©imaniÊ

Dear Passengers, We wish to thank all of you who have sent us your photos and we invite the rest of you to participate in our competition. Besides having fun taking photos, the author of the best photo can look forward to valuable prizes ∑ two return Croatia Airlines tickets for a destination of their choice. We believe that you are enjoying winter, the magical atmosphere it offers and the hours of fun frolicking in the snow. Ksenija ŠkoriÊ has been selected as the author of the best photo in this issue and we have awarded her with two Croatia Airlines return tickets. Dino Šimek and Danijela ©imaniÊ will receive our promotional gift packages. We invite you to keep on sending us your photos because valuable prizes await in the next issue of our in-ﬂight magazine.

Ne znam zašto, samo znam da volim. I do not know why I love it; I only know that I do.

Dino ©imek

Kao i mnogi drugi ljudi, volim putovati kako bih osjetila toplo sunce i pijesak, zvuk pjenuπavog vala i energiju ljudi. Like many other people I love to travel to feel of the hot sun and sand, the sound of the surf and the energy of the people.

Andrea Busch

Volim se buditi na novim mjestima, s novim pogledima. I like waking up in new places, with new views.

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Martina Horvat

WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL?

Matea PeniÊ

Volim putovati jer tada sve postaje moguÊe. I love to travel because travelling makes everything possible.

Svako je putovanje korak viπe, korak dalje u ostvarivanju mojih snova, ali i neπto πto otvara vrata novim snovima. Every journey is a step more, a step forward towards making my dreams come true, but also something that opens a door to new dreams.

Pod otvorenim vedrim nebom niπta nije ljepπe nego otkrivati kamo nas vodi nepoznata cesta æivota. Under an open clear sky there is nothing more beautiful than discover where the unknown road of life leads.

Ljudi su najljepπa pustolovina. People are the most beautiful adventure.

Jennifer Lakos

Marko BubiÊ

Volim putovati jer ni um ni srce nikad neÊe biti zatvoreni kad se iskuse nove kulture. I love to travel because your mind and heart will never be closed once you experience other cultures.

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ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 616-01-53 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/ugd@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 062-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 18:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept. Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team Tel. +385 (0) 91 77 312 Brojevi telefonskog check-ina / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam WTC, Tower B, Level 4, Schiphol Boulevard 207, 1118 BH Luchthaven Schiphol Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Fax (+31-20) 316-42-81 amsto@croatiaairlines.hr BeË / Wien Airport Office Objekt / Building 645, Room 115-116, A-1300 Wien Flughafen Tel. (+43-1) 7007 359-62 Fax (+43-1) 7007 359-63 vieap@croatiaairlines.hr Bruxelles Brussels Airport Box 31, 1930 Zaventem Airport office: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5133 Airport counter: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik ZraËna luka, Airport Dubrovnik 20 117 »ilipi, Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, 60 313 Frankfurt, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London 2 The Lanchesters, 162-164 Fulham Palace Road, London, W6 9ER, Tel. (+44-20) 8563-00-22, 0844 3710 310 (UK only) Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615

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ADDRESSES Airport Heathrow, Room 531, Terminal 1, Zone K Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-46-83 Fax (+44-20) 8754-73-77 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr München Flughafen Franz Josef-Strauss, Terminal 2, Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Büro B.4.1322, 85 356 München, Tel. (+49-89) 97-592-730/731 Fax (+49-89) 97-592-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr Paris Roissypôle, Le Dôme 1, 3th ﬂoor Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France 95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-4000 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-5511 parto@croatiaairlines.hr Pula ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-52) 218-909 (+385-52) 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyto@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5, 51 000 Rijeka, Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma ZraËna luka, Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci Torre Ufﬁci 2, Room 518 00054 Fiumicino Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo ZraËna luka Sarajevo, Airport Khurta Schorka 36, 71 210 Sarajevo, Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skoplje Ul. Dame Gruev 3, 1000 Skoplje, Tel. (+389-2) 3115-858, 3296-967 Fax (+389-2) 3114-203 ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpto@croatiaairlines.hr Split Obala hrv. nar. preporoda 9, 21 000 Split, Tel. (+385-21) 362-997, 362-055 (komercijala) Fax (+385-21) 362-567 sputo@croatiaairlines.hr ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadto@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb Zrinjevac 17, 10 000 Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 48-19-633 Fax (+385-1) 48-19-632 ZraËna luka Zagreb, Zagreb Airport, 10 150 Zagreb, Pleso Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-585 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Zürich Limmatquai 138, 8001 Zürich, Tel. (+41-44) 261-08-40 Fax (+41-44) 261-08-83 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr

Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe Crna Gora / OKI AIR MONTENEGRO d.o.o. Ivana VujoševiÊa 46, 81 000 Podgorica Montenegro Tel. (+382-20) 201-201 Tel./Fax (+382-20) 241-154 »eπka CK Blue Sky Travel Na Perštýne 1, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. (+420-2) 2222-2235 Fax (+420-2) 2222-0237 GrËka / Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str. 105 57 Athens, Greece Tel. (+30-210) 32-17-679, 32-17-750 Fax (+30-210) 32-49-152 Kosovo Airtour Head Office: St. Luan Haradinaj #27 10031 Prishtina, Kosovo Tel. (+381-38) 233-833 Fax (+381-38) 245-845 Airport Office: Prishtina International Airport Tel. (+381-38) 594-111 Fax (+381-38) 594-222 Portugal / Global Portugal Representacoes (GRT) Rua Castilho, N˚ 5 − 1˚ andar, Sala 18 1250-066 Lisboa, Portugal Tel. (+351-21) 351-2982 Fax (+351-21) 351-2988 SlovaËka / CK Blue Sky Travel 1. poschodie, Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel. (+421) 5262 2375 Španjolska / Global Representacion Turistica (GRT) c/Valencia, 266, 4/1a 08007 Barcelona Tel. (+34-934) 875-775 Fax (+34-934) 880-121 Turska / ZENITH Services Head Office: Ordu Caddesi, No. 206/1, Laleli 34134 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 513-2667 Fax (+90-212) 512-4234 Airport Office: Istanbul Ataturk Airport International Terminal Departure Floor Yesilkoy 34149 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 465-50-23, 465-40-92 Fax (+90-212) 465-40-92 Bliski istok / Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda St., Migdalor blgd. 12th Floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. (+972-3) 516-7181, 516-7140 Fax (+972-3) 516-7174 SAD / USA Networld Inc. / Croatia America 300 Lanidex Plaza, Parsippany NJ 07054, Tel. (+1-973) 884-3401 Fax (+1-973) 428-3929 Toll free 888-462-7628 Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. (+61-3) 9699-9355 Fax (+61-3) 9699-9388 Novi Zeland / New Zealand Croatia Times Limited Ltd. NZ PO Box 104-056; Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Road, Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. (+64-9) 837-9897 Fax (+64-9) 837-9898 Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo 105-0001 Japan Tel. (+81-3) 3593-6740 Fax (+81-3) 3593-6534

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