Inflight Magazine CROATIA Spring 2012

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CROATIA PUTNI »ASOPIS n

INFLIGHT MAGAZINE

P U T N I

» A S O P I S

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P R O L J E Δ E

I N F L I G H T

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S P R I N G

PROLJEΔE

VA© VLASTITI PRIMJERAK

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M A G A Z I N E

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YOUR PERSONAL COPY

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SPRING 2012

SET FOR SUCCESS It’s the little things that add up to a great meeting. From inspiring spaces and wholesome menus to thoughtful attention to details, we’ll set you up for clear-thinking productivity.

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©2012 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. SPG, Preferred Guest, Aloft, Element, Four Points, Le Méridien, Sheraton, St. Regis, The Luxury Collection, W, Westin and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. For full terms & conditions visit westin.com/zagreb

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WELCOME ABOARD!

DOBRO DO©LI U ZRAKOPLOV!

Poπtovani putnici!

D. FabijaniÊ

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Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Direktor/President & C.E.O. SreÊko ŠimunoviÊ

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ

Uredniπtvo/Editorial staff Silvana Jakuπ, –uro TomljenoviÊ, Ksenija Ælof

Urednik fotografije/Chief in photos Damir FabijaniÊ Roman Gebauer, Miljen

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ PrliÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Lektorica/Proof reader

obro doπli na naπ let! Raduje nas πto ste i ovom prigodom odabrali zrakoplov Croatia Airlinesa za svoje putovanje i zahvaljujemo vam na tome.

Naπa je æelja da se osjeÊate ugodno kad ste s nama, pa smo, æeleÊi poboljπati kvalitetu naπu usluge tijekom leta, uveli nekoliko novina. Uvjereni smo da Êe nova sjedala u naπim zrakoplovima let uËiniti joπ udobnijim. Naime, do svibnja Ëetiri naπa zrakoplova Airbus 319 bit Êe opremljena sjedalima Recaro, poznatima po visokoj kvaliteti, koja zbog manje teæine istodobno pridonose manjoj potroπnji goriva i joπ boljem oËuvanju okoliπa. Nove su i aplikacije za iPhone i iPad ureaje, koje moæete preuzeti na naπoj web stranici, te aplikacija za mobitele s operativnim sustavom Android.

Novost je i originalni koncept usluge, kojim Êemo vam predstaviti gastronomiju hrvatskih regija − Istre, Dalmacije, Hrvatskog zagorja i zagrebaËkog kraja, Slavonije...

Svaka tri mjeseca nudit Êemo reprezentativni obrok, koji okusima, bojama i mirisima vjerno doËarava naπe krajeve.

PoËinjemo s Istrom, pa vam najprije predstavljamo ukusnu i osebujnu istarsku kuhinju. Viπe o istarskim vinima i probranim specijalitetima moæete proËitati upravo u Ëasopisu koji je pred vama.

Od 25. oæujka poËinje i ljetni red letenja. Uvodimo i neke nove linije, meu kojima istiËemo one iz Zadra u Frankfurt i Pariz te iz Splita u Beograd, a ponovno Êemo povezati i Dubrovnik i Zagreb s Atenom, te Zagreb, ali i Rijeku, s Barcelonom. Kad veÊ spominjemo meunarodne letove, vrijedno je podsjetiti i na jedan povijesni datum. Naime, 5.travnja obiljeæavamo dvadesetu obljetnicu naπega prvoga meunarodnog leta. Bio je to let Zagreb − Frankfurt.

I srediπnjom temom ovoga proljetnog izdanja ostajemo u Istri, a s tamoπnjim ljepotama i specifiËnostima upoznat Êemo vas u starom gradiÊu Bale, bajkovitoga ugoaja.

Ali donosimo i mnoge druge zanimljive teme. Na drugom kraju naπe domovine, u uvijek atraktivnom Dubrovniku, predstavljamo vam dio stoljetne baπtine u ljekarnici male braÊe, koja neprekidno radi od 14. stoljeÊa.

No, putujemo i dalje. Kao πto vam je, vjerujemo, poznato, hrvatski graani odluËili su postati dijelom Europske unije, kojoj Êemo se pridruæiti sljedeÊe godine. To je ujedno i razlog viπe πto u ovom broju piπemo o Mariboru, nama bliskom gradu u susjednoj Sloveniji, koji je ove godine proglaπen europskom prijestolnicom kulture.

Nadamo se da Êe u naπem Ëasopisu i ovaj put svatko od vas naÊi neπto πto za sebe. Stoga, udobno se smjestite i prelistajte ga.

Zahvaljujemo vam na povjerenju i s radoπÊu vas ubrzo ponovno oËekujemo u naπem zrakoplovu!

Mirjana Miholek

Dear passengers!

Prijevod na engleski/

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English translation Lancon d.o.o.

Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26 Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec

elcome to our flight! We are glad that you have once again decided to travel by Croatia Airlines aircraft and we thank you for that.

We want you to feel comfortable with us, and therefore, in order to improve the services offered on our flights, we have introduced certain novelties. We believe that the new seats in our aircraft will make your flight even more comfortable. Indeed, by May four of our Airbus 319 aircraft will be equipped with Recaro seats, which are well known for their high quality. These seats also contribute to lower fuel consumption and therefore environmental protection as a result of their reduced weight. We have also introduced new applications for iPhone and iPad devices, which you can download from our website, as well as an application

for mobile phones that use the Android operating system.

Another novelty is an original service concept which will enable us to present the gastronomy of Croatian regions to you − Istria, Dalmatia, Hrvatsko Zagorje and the region of Zagreb, and Slavonia. Every three months we will change the menus in order to faithfully represent the Croatian regions through their tastes, colours and scents. We start with Istria, so we will first present the tasty and specific Istrian cuisine. You can read about Istrian wines and selected specialties in the magazine you are now reading.

The summer flight schedule begins on 25 March. We have introduced some new routes, of which we would like to emphasise those from Zadar to Frankfurt and Paris, and from Split to Belgrade. We shall again connect both Dubrovnik and Zagreb with Athens, as well as Zagreb and Rijeka with Barcelona. Since we are talking about international flights, let us remind you of a historic date. On 5 April we will mark the 20th anniversary of our first international flight, which was the route Zagreb − Frankfurt.

The main topic of the spring issue keeps us in Istria. We introduce you to the beauties and characteristics of the Istrian region with a visit to Bale, an old town with a fairytale atmosphere.

However, we bring you many other interesting topics as well. At the other end of our country, in the always attractive town of Dubrovnik, we present to you part of the centuries-old heritage of the Friars Minor Pharmacy, which has continuously been in operation since the 14th century.

However, our journey continues. As you probably know, Croatian citizens have decided to become part of the European Union, and we will join it next year. This is just another reason why this issue brings you an article on Maribor, a friendly town in neighbouring Slovenia, which has been declared the European Capital of Culture this year.

We hope each of you will find something for yourself in this issue. So, make yourself comfortable and enjoy reading.

Thank you for your trust and we look forward to seeing you again on our aircraft!

Vaš, Sincerely yours,

Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

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■ SADRÆAJ Razgovor: Martina Filjak

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UMJETNI»KO PUTOVANJE KRAJOLICIMA GLAZBENE LJEPOTE

Hrvatska pijanistica Martina Filjak danomice niæe blistave nastupe u uglednim koncertnim dvoranama vodeÊih svjetskih metropola, a ovih dana pohvale diljem svijeta ubire i njezin novi CD. 14 Okusi Hrvatske: Istra

NOVA USLUGA U NA©IM ZRAKOPLOVIMA

Novom uslugom u naπim zrakoplovima predstavljamo hrvatsku gastronomiju preko pojedinih regija i reprezentativnog obroka, koji vjerno doËarava naπe krajeve okusima, bojama i mirisima. PoËinjemo s Istrom.

6 Gastronomija

JELA I VINA ISTRE

Istra je zemlja bijelog tartufa i malvazije, najcjenjenijih namirnica suvremene gastronomije i jedna od najuzbudljivijih vinskih regija nove Europe.

Doete li u Istru, zacijelo neÊete poæaliti, jer uæivat Êete u tamoπnjim raznovrsnim specijalitetima.

6 Baπtina

BALE, ISTARSKA ARKADIJA

Uzdignut na brdu Mon Perin, stari gradiÊ Bale sadræajna je raskrsnica koja prπti ljepotom, stoljetnim vrijednostima i obiËajima. Utkan je u arkadijski krajolik svojih dolina otmjene, ali jednostavne ljepote te idiliËnoga ozraËja.

6 Tradicija

DUBROVA»KA LJEKARNICA MALE BRAΔE

Gradnjom samostana male braÊe u Dubrovniku 1317. godine osnovana je i glasovita franjevaËka ljekarnica, i to kao treÊa apoteka po starosti, poslije one u Bagdadu i Padovi, koja neprekidno radi sve do danas.

6 Muzeji

INVAZIJA KULTURE U NOΔI

U noÊi 27. sijeËnja 2012.g. muzeji su postali ognjiπta duha na kojima su roditelji djeci ponosno pronosili priËu o sjaju hrvatske i svjetske kulturne baπtine te o njezinoj bitnoj ulozi u razvoju identiteta druπtva. Bila je to NoÊ muzeja u Hrvatskoj pokrenuta još 2005. godine.

6 Europa

MARIBOR, EUROPSKA PRIJESTOLNICA KULTURE 2012.

Tijekom ove godine Maribor nosi prestiæni naslov Europske prijestolnice kulture, a sljedeÊe bit Êe i domaÊin Zimske univerzijade i svjetski grad mladih. Grad pod zelenim Pohorjem na objema obalama Drave ponosi se bogatim zabavnim i kulturnim æivotom, vinskom tradicijom i burnom povijeπÊu.

6 Meridijani

SVE BOJE YUNNANA

Yunnnan je provincija na jugozapadu Kine, gotovo sedam puta prostranija od Hrvatske, Ëije je stanovniπtvo 11 puta brojnije od hrvatskoga.

Kad bi se traæilo drugo ime za Yunnan, bilo bi to raznolikost.

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ProljeÊe/Spring 2012

www.croatiaairlines.com

CROATIA AIRLINES

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Veö 10. lipnja…

Hrvatska igra s Irskom u Poznanju UEFA EURO 2012™ UEFA vas poziva u izuzetan program Corporate Hospitality Club Prestige

Rezervirajte vaše mjesto i osjetite sve emocije prvenstva u stadionskoj business klasi! tel.: +48 22 500 94 40, e-mail: hospitality.euro2012@uefa.ch hospitality.uefa.ch CROATIA AIRLINES

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■ CONTENTS Interview: Martina Filjak

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AN ARTISTIC JOURNEY THROUGH THE LANDSCAPES OF MUSICAL BEAUTY

The Croatian pianist Martina Filjak has given an endless string of outstanding performances in renowned concert halls in the world’s leading metropolises, and these days her new CD is also being praised around the world.

14 Flavours of Croatia: Istria

A NEW SERVICE ON BOARD

A new service in our aircraft introduces you to Croatian cuisine by way of representative meals from individual regions which faithfully capture the areas flavours, colours and aromas. We start with Istria.

14 Gastronomy

ISTRIA’S FOODS AND WINES

Istria is the land of white truffles and Malvasia. It is the land of the most respected foods in modern gastronomy and the land of the most exciting wine region in new Europe. You surely will not regret coming to Istria because you will enjoy the variety of the local specialities.

14 Heritage

BALE, ISTRIAN ARCADIA

Nestled on top of the hill Mon Perin, woven into the Arcadian landscape of the valley, Bale boasts elegant but simple beauty and idyllic atmosphere.

This ancient townlet is a crossroads bursting with beauty, ancient values and customs.

14 Tradition

FRIARS MINOR PHARMACY IN DUBROVNIK

When the Monastery of Friars Minor was built in Dubrovnik in 1317, the famous Franciscan pharmacy was also established. It is the third oldest pharmacy, after the ones in Baghdad and Padua, and has been in continuous operation until today.

14 Museums

CULTURE INVADES AT NIGHT

On that night, 27 January 2012, museums became the homes of spirits, where parents proudly told their children the story of the glory of the Croatian and the world’s cultural heritage and its essential role in the development of society’s identity. It was The Night of Museums, which was started in Croatia in 2005.

14 Europe

MARIBOR, EUROPEAN CAPITAL OF CULTURE 2012

During 2012, Maribor carries the prestigious title of the European Capital of Culture, and next year Maribor will host the Winter Universiade and will be the World’s Youth Capital. The city under the green slopes of Pohorje, stretched on both banks of the Drava River, is proud of its turbulent past, rich viticulture and vibrant entertainment and cultural life.

14 Meridians

ALL THE COLOURS OF YUNNAN

Yunnan is a province in the southwest of China which is almost seven times larger than Croatia, and whose population is 11 times more numerous than the Croatian population. If you were to search for another name for Yunnan, it would be diversity.

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Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak

This is your personal copy

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Matko Masterl

■ RAZGOVOR: MARTINA FILJAK

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Piπe/By Zlatko Madžar

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Romano GroziÊ

Fotografije/Photos Romano GroziÊ i/and Matko Masterl

INTERVIEW: MARTINA FILJAK ■

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Hrvatska pijanistica Martina Filjak danomice niæe blistave nastupe u uglednim koncertnim dvoranama vodeÊih svjetskih metropola, New York, Pariz, Amsterdam, Berlin, BeË, Barcelona, Cleveland, ©angaj, Hong Kong… Njezin debi u kultnome njujorπkom Carnegie Hallu popraÊen je u New York Timesu svesrdnim kritiËkim hvalospjevom, a ovih dana pohvale diljem svijeta ubire i njezin novi CD. The Croatian pianist Martina Filjak has given an endless string of outstanding performances in renowned concert halls in the world’s leading metropolises: New York, Paris, Amsterdam, Berlin, Vienna, Barcelona, Cleveland, Shanghai, Hong Kong…

Her debut at New York’s famous Carnegie Hall received unanimous praise from critics in The New York Times and these days her new CD is also being praised around the world.

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a dosadaπnji umjetniËki rad pijanistica Martina Filjak u domovini Hrvatskoj dobila je tri vaæne nagrade - Milke Trnine, Vladimira Nazora i Orlando, a 2009. odlikovana je Redom hrvatskog pletera za postignuÊa u glazbi. Martina Filjak odnedavna æivi u Berlinu, a rijetke slobodne dane najradije provodi u rodnome Zagrebu te u prelijepome hrvatskom Gorskom kotaru, gdje se predano bavi oËuvanjem ugroæene populacije euroazijskog risa.

■ Vaπu afirmaciju na meunarodnoj sceni pospjeπile su pobjede na velikim pijanistiËkim natjecanjima. Nakon toga slavodobitnoga natjecateljskog razdoblja, veÊ se nekoliko sezona zapravo natjeËete sami sa sobom, prireujuÊi diljem svijeta πezdesetak koncerata na godinu. ZnajuÊi kako su tek malobrojni laureati velikih glazbenih natjecanja uspjeli izgraditi respektabilnu umjetniËku karijeru, moram Vas upitati u Ëemu je tajna Vaπeg uspjeha.

- Zaista ne znam koliko se u vlastitim oËima doista vidim i smatram uspjeπnom ni koliko mi je taj takozvani uspjeh uistinu bitan. No, mislim da ste veÊ i sami donekle odgovorili na to pitanje: kod mene je sada doista posrijedi neprestano natjecanje sa samom sobom! Uvijek si iznova postavljam sve brojnije i sve zahtjevnije umjetniËke zadaÊe, pa mi je, baπ u tome smislu, tijekom proπle i ove sezone osobit izazov bio da u πto kraÊem roku, iz tjedna u tjedan, zaredom izvedem nekoliko razliËitih klavirskih koncerata.

Tako sam, primjerice, u aktualnoj sezoni, u razmacima od po samo nekoliko dana, uz razliËite simfonijske orkestre, odsvirala tako razliËite klavirske koncerte »ajkovskog, Ravela, Beethovena, Liszta, Brahmsa i Paula Hindemitha…

Zbog Ëestih nastupa svikla sam se na pozornicu, na kojoj se osjeÊam posve prirodno, πto je veliko blago. Stekla sam tu dobrodoπlu rutinu, koja za umjetnost moæe biti i pogubna, pa upravo stoga baπ na svakom nastupu nastojim saËuvati svjeæinu stava kako bih ostvarila uvijek drugaËije nijansiranu i − nadam se − joπ bolju izvedbu. Kad ponovno izvodim iste skladbe u njih se uvijek iznova zaljubljujem, a takvu æivotnu svjeæinu svojstvenu koncertnom nastupu nastojim saËuvati i na svojim studijskim snimkama. U umjetnosti, ali i u æivotu, vrlo sam radoznala osoba, sklona istraæivanju, pa Ëak i riziËnim eksperimentima, jer ako se to veoma dragocjeno koncertno iskustvo s vremenom svede samo na lagodnu rutinu, onda kao umjetnik postajete zapravo mrtav.

■ Zarana ste ovladali opseænim repertoarom u kojemu je, osim solistiËkih skladbi, i niz velikih klavirskih koncerata. Vaπi angaæmani ravnopravno su raspodijeljeni na solistiËke koncerte i nastupe uza simfonijske orkestre; podjednako ste, dakle, skloni objema kon-

Z

certnim disciplinama, no one su umnogome i popriliËno razliËite, zar ne?

- Od malih nogu Ëesto sam nastupala uz orkestre, pa sam veÊ tada izgradila veliki dio standardnog repertoara. Mnoge od klavirskih koncerata s lakoÊom sam nauËila veÊ u tinejdæerskim godinama, jer u mladosti sve upijate kao spuæva, πto ima svojih dobrih, ali i loπih strana. No tek sada − kad mentalno i tehniËki potpuno vladam povelikim i stilski raznolikim repertoarom − zaista se mirno mogu prepustiti pronalaæenju osobnijih interpretacijskih rjeπenja i vlastitoga umjetniËkog puta. A ta spomenuta razlika izmeu recitala i nastupa s orkestrom doista je velika, no u oba sluËaja posrijedi je vrlo profinjeno reagiranje na uvelike drugaËije okruæenje. Na recitalima reagiram kako na sam instrument, tako i na osjetne oscilacije akustiËke slike, koja ovisi o promjenama temperature ali i broju posjetitelja u dvorani. Kako vrijeme prolazi, sve mi draæi postaju upravo recitali koji mi − kroz delikatnije tonsko sjenËanje − omoguÊuju mnogo intimniji izriËaj od onoga koji je moguÊ u suËeljavanju s bujnom zvukovnoπÊu simfonijskog orkestra.

S orkestrima uglavnom nastupam u velikim, katkad i golemim dvoranama, gdje se pomalo osjeÊam kao gladijator koji je gurnut u arenu. »ak i u takvoj interakciji sa stotinjak orkestralnih glazbenika, uvijek se nastojim izboriti za dijaloπke kvalitete svojstvene komornome muziciranju, pa stoga reagiram na svaki instrumentalni solo, orkestralnu grupaciju i gestu dirigenta; bez takvoga umjetniËkog zajedniπtva ne moæe se izraziti sadræajno jedinstvo nijednoga uistinu vrijednoga klavirskog koncerta.

■ Mnogi od Vaπih koncerata dogodili su se u kultnim koncertnim dvoranama obiju hemisfera. Kako se nosite sa spoznajom da se tada predstavljate najrazmaæenijoj publici, poput, primjerice, one koja u njujorπkome Carnegie Hallu izrijekom sluπa samo najveÊe glazbenike danaπnjice?

- Takva spoznaja moæe, dakako, i optereÊivati, ali te poznate dvorane, njujorπki Carnegie Hall, beËki Musikverein, berlinski Konzerthaus… odreda imaju divnu akustiku, znalaËku publiku i, dakako, vrhunski klavir, koji je, po pravilu, ugoen do savrπenstva. U takvim, zapravo idealnim, okolnostima, uvijek sam se dobro osjeÊala te bila sretna, pa i ponosna πto imam povlasticu da u tim posveÊenim koncertnim prostorima muziciram pred elitnom glazbenom publikom.

Meni je to zapravo vrlo poticajan izazov.

■ ZnajuÊi za Vaπ pretrpan koncertni raspored, uvijek novi repertoar i Ëeste interkontinentalne letove, pretpostavljam da katkad ima raznoraznih zanimljivih dogaaja.

- Upravo u tom smislu dogodilo mi se nešto neobiËno na dan prije poËetka snimanja moga debitantskog CD-a za Naxos. Posrijedi je pet-

CROATIA AIRLINES

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naest sonata katalonskog skladatelja Antonija Solera, a tih osamdesetak minuta njegove prekrasne glazbe vjeæbala sam, dakako, mjesecima.

Dan uoËi snimanja zaputila sam se u Barcelonu preko Münchena. Zbog obilnog snijega svi su letovi poËeli kasniti, tako da sam nakon zamornog sjedenja u avionu, koji je sedam sati Ëekao dozvolu za polijetanje, u Barcelonu prispjela sa zakaπnjenjem od deset sati. Ja sam doduπe stigla, ali nije i moja prtljaga u kojoj su bile sve Solerove partiture, ali i moje kontaktne leÊe, bez kojih sam jednostavno bespomoÊna. Kako je snimanje trebalo poËeti toËno u 11 sati, zaista nisam imala izbora. Ranim sam se jutrom zaputila u potragu za bilo kakvim kontaktnim leÊama i zamjenskim partiturama tih izgubljenih Solerovih sonata, no u tim novim i netaknutim notama sada viπe nije bilo nijedne od mojih brojnih, mjesecima unoπenih zabiljeπki. UnatoË svemu tome, usredotoËeno sam odradila zahtjevno trodnevno snimanje, a Ëetvrtog dana ujutro, dakako, stigao je kovËeg. Naxosov CD u meuvremenu je objavljen, pa dok Ëitam izvrsne kritike kojima je popraÊen, svaki se put tajnovito osmjehnem i s razlogom pomislim: Eh, kad biste samo znali…

■ Vaπe glazbeno naukovanje poËelo je u veoma poticajnom obiteljskom okruæenju; majka Milvia profesorica je klavira, a pokojni je otac Ranko bio vrstan koncertant i pedagog. ©to ste u glazbenome, ali i ljudskome smislu baπtinili od svojih roditelja?

- Od roditelja sam, dakako, naslijedila veliku ljubav prema glazbi, ali i radne navike, upornost.

U naπemu su domu pojmovi umjetnik, glazbenik i pijanist imali onu istu teæinu i znaËenje koje se u nekim drugim obiteljima pridaje zvanjima bankara, pravnika ili kirurga. Zbog toga velikoga poticajnoga obiteljskog ozraËja posve je prirodno πto sam odmalena æeljela postati pijanistica, no unatoË tomu, ipak nisam bila veoma posluπno dijete: Ëesto sam se opirala i tvrdoglavo traæila samo svoj put, πto je postalo joπ izrazitije u tinejdæerskim godinama, pa Ëak i tijekom studija.

Sada mi se pak Ëini kako je za razvoj svakog mladog umjetnika takav buntovni stav zapravo veoma koristan.

■ Vaπ se æivot tijekom cijele godine odvija na relaciji: zrakoplov − hotel − koncertna dvorana − hotel − zrakoplov… Iako znam da Vam dokolica nipoπto nije dosuena, ipak Êu Vas zapitati: kakva je zapravo Martina Filjak izvan svjetala pozornice?

- Imate pravo, jer i ove odgovore na Vaπa pitanja piπem u Business Loungeu zrakoplovne luke u Chicagu, a na upit kakva sam osoba u privatnom æivotu, najbolje bi Vam mogli odgovoriti moji prijatelji. No, zato Êu Vam odati nekoliko svojih tajni: veoma volim putovati, oboæavam strane jezike i zasad ih govorim sedam, a na dugim putovanjima moja neizostavna popudbina izrijekom su

dobre knjige… Od svega spomenutoga, najviπe ipak volim iskonsku prirodu, s kojom bih se u buduÊnosti æeljela πto viπe poistovjetiti. Jednom Êe valjda prispjeti vrijeme i za to. Iskreno se nadam da Êe se do toga dalekog dana uspjeπno nastaviti moje umjetniËko putovanje zaËudnim krajolicima neiscrpne glazbene ljepote.

■ Pijanistica u zemlji risova Martina Filjak voli æivot koji se sastoji od putovanja i neprestano izmjenjivanje klima i kontinenata, kako geografskih, tako i glazbenih. Ipak, na asfaltu bilo koje metropole najlakπe pronalazi svoj unutarnji mir zamiπljajuÊi drvenu kuÊicu na rijeci Kupi, usred Gorskog kotara, koju su podigli njezini djed i baka, strastveni ljubitelji prirode i etnolozi. Od njih je naslijedila i ljubav prema πumama i vrletima nacionalnog parka Risnjak, kao i prema rijetkoj i prelijepoj zvjerci koja ondje obitava: euroazijskom risu.

U suradnji s Vedranom KoceiÊ i agencijom Lifestyle Martina tu svoju ljubav pretvara u djela sa æeljom da podigne svijest i znanje o tim æivotinjama i njihovoj ugroæenosti. Potpisavπi ugovor s hrvatskim Ministarstvom kulture, Martina je postala ambasadorica risa, a u veljaËi ove godine poduzela i veliku akciju. U suradnji s glumcem Vilijem Matulom i mladim znanstvenikom i prouËavateljem risova Vedranom SlijepËeviÊem, u kazaliπtu Zorin dom u Karlovcu organizirala je jedinstvenu umjetniËkoprirodnjaËku veËer pod naslovom Zemlja risova.

Martina osniva i vlastitu zakladu koja Êe u Ëvrstoj suradnji sa struËnjacima Dræavnog zavoda za zaπtitu prirode sjedinjavati te dvije velike i nerazdvojive ljubavi: prema glazbi i prirodi. NazivajuÊi Martinu Filjak tigricom i lavicom klavijature, svjetski su kritiËari oËito naslutili njezinu bliskost s velikim, otmjenim, okretnim i lijepim zvjerkama, koje su rijetke i ugroæene baπ kao i prava umjetnost kojoj sluæi ta predana pijanistica.

Branimir Pofuk

he pianist Martina Filjak has so far received three important awards for her artistic work in her homeland Croatia − Milka Trnina, Vladimir Nazor and Orlando, and in 2009 she was awarded the Order of the Croatian Interlace for her accomplishments in music. As of recently, Martina Filjak lives in Berlin, and prefers to spend her rare days off in her hometown Zagreb and in the beautiful Croatian region of Gorski Kotar, where she is dedicated to preserving the endangered population of the Eurasian lynx.

■ Your presence on the international scene has been reinforced by winning great piano competitions. After this glorious competitive period, you have in fact been competing against yourself for several seasons now,

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giving about sixty concerts a year around the world. Knowing that only a handful of winners of great musical competitions have managed to build respectable artistic careers, I have to ask you what the secret of your success is.

- I really do not know how successful I am in my own eyes or how much this so-called success really means to me. But I believe that you have already partially answered this question: I really am in constant competition with myself now! I always give myself more numerous and more demanding artistic tasks, and in this very sense, during this and the previous season, a special challenge for me was to give several different piano concerts in the shortest possible time, from week to week. For example, in the current season I have played different piano concertos

by Tchaikovsky, Ravel, Beethoven, Liszt, Brahms and Paul Hindemith, with different symphonic orchestras and with only a few days between performances… Thanks to the frequent performances, I have become accustomed to the stage, where I feel completely at ease, which is a great asset. I have gained this welcome routine, which can also be disastrous to the art, and this is why I try to keep a fresh attitude at every concert, in order to give differently nuanced and − I hope − even better performances every time. When I play the same compositions several times, I fall in love in them again and again, and I try to retain this vivid freshness, a characteristic of live performances, in my studio recordings as well. In life, as in art, I am a very curious person who likes to explore and even take risks, because if the precious concert experience is reduced to a comfortable routine you become essentially dead as an artist.

■ Quite early you mastered an extensive repertoire, consisting of, in addition to solo pieces, a number of great piano concertos.

Your engagements are evenly distributed between solo concerts and performances with symphonic orchestras. Therefore, you are equally inclined to both concert disciplines, but they are quite different in many ways, aren’t they?

- I frequently performed with orchestras at an early age, and I built a large part of my standard repertoire back then. I mastered many of the piano concertos with ease back in my teens, because when you are young you soak up everything like a sponge, which has its advantages and disadvantages as well. But it is only now − when I have full mental and technical command of a sizeable and stylistically diverse repertoire − that I can truly commit myself to finding more personal interpretations and my own artistic path. As you mentioned, the difference between recitals and performCROATIA AIRLINES

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did not, together with all of Soler’s scores and my contact lenses, without which I am simply helpless. As the recording session was scheduled for 11 a.m., I really had no choice.

Early in the morning I began my search for any contact lenses available and for replacement scores of these lost Soler sonatas, but the new and intact sheet music now lacked the many remarks which I had been jotting down for months. Despite all this, I was fully focused on the demanding three-day recording sessions, and on the morning of the fourth day my suitcase arrived. The Naxos CD has been released in the meantime, and whenever I read the excellent reviews which it has received, I smile secretively and think, with a good reason: Eh, if only you knew…

■ Your music education started in a very stimulating family environment; your mother, Milvia, is a piano teacher, and your late father, Ranko, was an outstanding concert performer and a pedagogue.

What have you inherited from your parents, both in terms of music and human values?

- From my parents I have inherited, of course, a great love for music, but also a work ethic and persistence. In our home the terms artist, musician and pianist had the same significance and weight as some other families attribute to the professions of bankers, lawyers or surgeons.

It is natural that I wanted to become a pianist from an early age due to this wonderful and stimulating family atmosphere, but despite this I was not a very obedient child. I often fought back and stubbornly searched for my own way, which became even more pronounced in my teens and during my years in the academy.

Now I believe that such a rebellious attitude is actually very useful for the development of any young artist.

■ Throughout the year your life follows the pattern: airplane − hotel − concert hall − hotel − airplane… Although I know that you do not get to enjoy leisure a lot, I will ask you nonetheless: what is Martina Filjak really like away from the lights of the stage?

- You are right, as I am writing answers to these questions in the Business Lounge at the Chicago Airport. What I am like in my private life is a question which would be best answered by my friends. But, I will tell you a few of my secrets: I love to travel, I adore foreign languages and so far, I have become fluent in seven of them, and on long trips, good books are my obligatory companions… However, out of all of the above, I love true nature the most and I would like to somehow be a part of this as much as possible in the future. Hopefully, the time for this will come. I sincerely wish that until that far-off day comes, my artistic journey through the

amazing landscapes of infinite musical beauty will successfully continue.

■ A Pianist in the Land of Lynx Martina Filjak likes a life that consists of travelling and constantly changing climates and continents, both in terms of geography and music.

However, on the asphalt of any metropolis, the easiest way for her to find inner peace is by fantasizing about a wooden cabin on the bank of the Kupa River in the heart of Gorski Kotar, which was built by her grandparents, nature lovers and ethnologists. She inherited her love for the forests and cliffs of the Risnjak National Park from them, as well as her fondness of the beautiful wild animal that dwells there: the Eurasian lynx.

In cooperation with Vedrana KoceiÊ and the Lifestyle Agency, Martina transforms her love into action, wishing to raise awareness and knowledge about these animals and their endangered status. By signing an agreement with the Croatian Ministry of Culture, Martina became the ambassador of the lynx, and in February this year she launched a big campaign. In cooperation with the actor Vili Matula, and the young scientist and lynx expert Vedran SlijepËeviÊ, she organized a unique show which brought together art and natural science entitled The Land of Lynx at the Zorin Dom Theatre in Karlovac. Martina is establishing her own foundation which will, in close cooperation with the experts at the State Institute for Nature Protection, combine these two great and inseparable loves: music and nature. By nicknaming Martina Filjak a tigress and lioness of the keyboard, critics around the world have obviously sensed her closeness with these large, elegant, nimble and beautiful wild animals, which are rare and endangered, just like true art, which this pianist is dedicated to.

Branimir Pofuk

Romano GroziÊ

ing with an orchestra is great indeed, but in both cases it is about a subtle response to a significantly different environment. In recitals I respond both to the instrument itself and the sensory images of acoustic oscillations, which depend on changes in temperature but also on the number of audience members in the hall. As time goes by I like recitals more and more, as they − through more delicate tonal shading − give me the opportunity to express myself more intimately than when faced with the lavish sound of a symphonic orchestra. I perform with orchestras mostly in large and sometimes huge halls, where I feel a bit like a gladiator pushed into an arena. Even when interacting with a hundred orchestral musicians, I always try to fight for dialogical qualities that are characteristic of chamber music-making, and I therefore respond to each instrumental solo, orchestral group and the conductor’s gesture; without this musical unity, one cannot express the unity of content of any truly valuable piano concerto.

■ Many of your concerts have taken place in legendary concert halls on both hemispheres. How do you deal with knowing that you are presenting yourself to the most pampered of audiences like the one, for example, at Carnegie Hall in New York, which listens only to the greatest musicians of modern times?

- This knowledge can be a burden, of course, but these famous halls, like New York’s Carnegie Hall, Vienna’s Musikverein, Berlin’s Konzerthaus… all have the most wonderful acoustics, an educated audience and, of course, top-quality pianos which are, as a rule, tuned to perfection. In these indeed ideal circumstances I have always felt good and I was happy and even proud to have the privilege to make music in these sacred concert halls in front of an elite musical audience. In fact, this is a very stimulating challenge for me.

■ Having in mind your packed concert schedule, always new repertoire and frequent intercontinental flights, I assume that you sometimes experience different interesting situations when travelling.

- Something like that happened to me the day before starting the recording of my debut CD for Naxos. There were fifteen sonatas by the Catalan composer Antonio Soler, and of course, I had been practicing the eighty minutes of his beautiful music for months. The day before the recording was scheduled I travelled to Barcelona via Munich. All the flights were delayed due to heavy snow, and I arrived in Barcelona with a ten-hour delay. My plane had been waiting for permission for takeoff for seven hours. That is, I arrived but my luggage CROATIA AIRLINES

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HRVATSKA Republika

To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËne obale Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do Panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2001. godine, 4,437.460 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima.

CROATIA Republic of

National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet).

Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contribu-

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Izravne domaÊe linije Direct domestic routes Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines’ destinations stalne / regular sezonske zimske / seasonal in winter

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Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka.

Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica - kuna.

Glavni je grad Zagreb (779.145 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje.

Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. prosinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine.

This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. By the 2001 census, Croatia’s population is 4,437,460. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs.

There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited.

The official language is Croatian, and the official script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna.

The capital is Zagreb (779,145 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center.

The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992.

Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih zajedno Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova.

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ted to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima iz svih razdoblja, zbog burnih povijesnih zbivanja i preplitanja utjecaja razliËitih kultura.

Njezinu obalu karakteriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakralna baπtina, te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina.

Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeuropskoga kulturnog kruga i istiËe se mnogim prapovijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka i kulturnim spomenicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka.

Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku.

Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine.

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A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of influences of different cultures. Its coast is characterized by the influences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monuments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous

prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era.

Three Croatian cities and two monumental com-plexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik.

The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina - ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari - najveÊe turistiËko iznenaenje te hit odrediπte na Sredozemlju.

Niz uspjeπnih godina nastavlja se ∑ suglasni su analitiËari turistiËkih prilika ∑ i u 2009. godini.

Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska je turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, u priobalju te u kontinentalnom dijelu zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb,

u 2010. godini posjetilo oko 11,000.000 turista, od kojih je inozemnih bilo oko 9,400.000.

Ostvareno je ukupno oko 56,400.000 noÊenja. Pritom je broj inozemnih noÊenja bio oko 50,700.000. Tradicionalno najbrojniji gosti, Nijemci, prvo su mjesto zadræali i u 2010. godini (22,5 %), a njih slijede gosti iz Slovenije (11,5 %), Italije (9,3 %), Austrije (8,7 %), »eπke (8,2 %), Poljske (5,7 %), Nizozemske (4,4 %)...

Hoteli, turistiËka naselja, kampovi i sve druge vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim turistiËkim standardima. Bogata kulturna ponuda, wellness ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, mnogi kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih staza ili pak vinske staze, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledavanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti ili pak pravi spoj doæivljaja i avanturizma poveÊavaju adrenalin...

Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog njezina geografskog smještaja, nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa, kao i drugih zraËnih pri jevozni ka. Na te me lju mreæe au to ce sta i poluautocesta, Hrvatska je i cestom bliæa nego ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajek tom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe - i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji - manje od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od svakodnevice miljama i miljama daleko...

Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has been a hit destination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international experts in tourism.

Tourist analysts are agre ed that a series of successful years is due to continue in 2010.

According to data provided by the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, Croatian tourist destinations on the islands, coast and in the interior, including the capital Zagreb 2010 were visited by nearly 11 million tourists, of whom 9.4 million were foreign guests.

The total number of overnight stays was more than 56.4 million, of which foreign visitors accounted for 50.7 million. The largest number of foreign guests came from Germany (22,5 %), followed by Slove nia (11,5 %), Italy (9,3 %), Austria (8,7 %), the Czech Republic (8,2 %), Poland (5,7 %) the Netherlands (4,4 %)...

Hotels, tourist sites, camps and other types of accommodation, as well as modern nautical centers, are equipped in line with international tourism standards. There is a rich cultural of fer, together with wellness, sports, recreational and enter ta inment facilities, many ki lometers of

well-kept footpaths or wine roads, excursions including sight-seeing of natural and cultural treasures, or the right combination of experience and adventure to raise the adrenalin level...

Croatia is close by, not just geographically, but thanks to its airport network and the high-quality ser vice of its national air company, Croatia Airlines, besides other air companies. The network of newly built freeways and semi-freeways means that Croatia is easier to reach by road than ever. If you have chosen to spend your vacation on one of Croatia’s many islands, the crossing by ferry or hydrofoil boat will take you ∑ even for the most remote islands ∑ less than two hours. Yet their beauty and the immediate contact with virgin nature will be unforgettable, as if you were miles and miles away from the ever yday world...

Novac i naËin plaÊanja Kuna (kn) je naziv novËane jedinice Republike Hrvatske.

U optjecaju su novËanice kuna i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp) ∑ stoti dio kune. NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima - 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac - 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima.

Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Kuna (kn).

In circulation are banknotes in Kuna and coins in Kuna and Lipa (lp) ∑ one hundredth of a Kuna.

The banknotes are issued in the following denominations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Kuna, while the denomination structure of the coins is 1, 2 and 5 Kuna and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Lipa (100 Lipa = 1 Kuna). Payments can be made by credit card (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard and Mastercard), as well as euro-checks. Cash can be withdrawn from ATMs.

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■ OKUSI HRVATSKE... FLAVOURS OF CROATIA...

Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

U naπim Êemo vam zrakoplovima tijekom dvije godine, u prvom redu gastronomski, predstavljati pojedine hrvatske krajeve Istru, Dalmaciju, Zagreb i Hrvatsko zagorje, Slavoniju...

PoËinjemo s okusima Istre.

In the next two years we will be presenting individual Croatian regions − Istria, Dalmatia, Zagreb and Hrvatsko zagorje and Slavonia in our aircraft, first of all through gastronomy. We start with flavours of Istria. ako bi vam boravak u naπim zrakoplovima bio πto ugodniji, naπu smo uslugu tijekom leta odluËili unaprijediti.

Novom uslugom, u prvom redu, æelimo vam predstaviti gastronomiju naπe lijepe zemlje preko pojedinih regija i ponuditi vam reprezentativni obrok koji vjerno doËarava hrvatske krajeve, ostaje u sjeÊanju i moæda vas potakne na neki sljedeÊi let.

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Od travnja do lipnja predstavljamo vam Ëarobnu Istru i njezinu raskoπnu gastronomiju.

Pri predstavljanju naπega prvog podruËja, Istre i njezine gastronomije, pomogli su nam kuhari restorana San Rocco iz tipiËnoga istarskog mjestaπca Brtonigle, koji su nam predloæili izbor jela πto vam ih nudimo te pokazali naËin njihove pripreme i posluæivanja.

Gourmet Restoran San Rocco Ëlan je prestižne europske udruge Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe (JRE) koja promiËe poštivanje tradicije pod motom talent & passion (talent i strast).

Novu smo uslugu usredotoËili na poslovni razred, u kojemu putnicima nudimo specijalitete te vrhunska vina, aperitive i digestive iz aktualnog kraja.

Na meunarodnim letovima, u ekonomskom razredu, takoer putnicima nudimo obroke obogaÊene specifiËnim namirnicama iz odreenog kraja, kao i vina karakteristiËna za pojedina podruËja. Pri izboru vina konzultirali smo Sašu Špiranca, vinskog konzultanta i novinara koji je za vas izabrao reprezentativno crno i bijelo vino.

Valja takoer naglasiti kako su raznovrsni topli obroci posluæeni u novodizajniranom posuu koje prati suvremene gastronomske trendove, a na podloπcima za posue pronaÊi Êete pomno osmiπljene gastro motive aktualnog kraja − tartufe, πparoge, masline i smokve…

Kako bismo uz novu ponudu obroka podignuli i razinu usluge u zrakoplovu, odluËili smo dodatno educirati domaÊice i domaÊine zrakoplova, te smo naπe instruktore za servis poslali na πkolovanje u uglednu πvicarsku πkolu za hotelski menadæment Ecole hôtelière de Lausanne i kompaniju PrivatAir. Valja spomenuti kako Êe aktualna regija

takoer biti predstavljena karakteristiËnom instrumentalnom glazbom tijekom ukrcaja u zrakoplov.

U naπemu Êe putnom Ëasopisu svaka regija biti reprezentativno predstavljena rijeËju i slikom, u zrakoplovu moæete pogledati film o regiji, a u broπuri, koju Êemo vam takoer ponuditi na letu, pronaÊi Êete zanimljive informacije o regiji i njezinoj gastronomiji.

Vina, piÊa i specifiËne proizvode pojedine regije moÊi Êete i kupiti u zrakoplovu.

Preko naπe internetske stranice www.croatiaairlines.hr moæete se informirati o novoj usluzi i obrocima koji se nude na letu, kao i o svim drugim pogodnostima koje vam s radoπÊu nudimo. n

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With the new service we first and foremost want to introduce you to the fine cuisine of our beautiful country based on the individual regions. We will do this by offering you a representative meal which will be a faithful portrayal of the different parts of Croatia, become a cherished memory, and maybe even inspire you to take another flight with us.

From April to June, we will introduce you to the magic of Istria and its luxurious gastronomic offer. Chefs from the restaurant San Rocco from the typical Istrian village of Brtonigla have helped us present our first region, Istria, and its cuisine, suggesting the selection of dishes we will offer you and showing us how to prepare and serve them.

Gourmet Restaurant San Rocco is a member of the prestigious association Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe (JRE) promoting tradition under the motto talent & passion.

We have focused our new service on business class, where passengers are offered specialties and top-quality wines, aperitifs and digestifs from the presented region.

On our international flights, we also offer our economy class passengers meals enriched with ingredients specific to a particular

n order to make your time on board as enjoyable as possible, we have decided to enhance our inflight service.

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region, as well as wines characteristic of particular areas. We have consulted with Saša Špiranec, wine expert and journalist, in terms of our wine selection, and he has chosen representative red and white wine for you.

It should also be emphasized that the diverse hot meals are served in new designed serving dishes which are in line with modern gastronomic trends, and on the trays you will find carefully designed gastronomic motifs of the relevant region − truffles, asparagus, olives and figs …

In order to raise the level of our inflight service along with the new meal offer, we have decided to provide additional training for our flight attendants, and have sent our service instructors to receive education at the renowned Swiss hotel management

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school, Ecole hôtelière de Lausanne, and the company PrivatAir. It should be noted that the relevant region will also be presented through characteristic instrumental music which will be played as passengers board the plane.

Our inflight magazine will feature each region through texts and images, and while on board, you can see a film on the region, and in the brochure which will also be offered to you during the flight you will find interesting information on the region and its cuisine.

Wines, beverages and characteristic products of each region can also be bought on board.

You can get information on the new service and the meals of fered during the flight, as well as all other benefi ts we are pleased to offer you, on our website at www.croatiaairlines.com. n

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nilom parka. Luksuzan, a istodobno diskretan ambijent, ovdje je da ugodi æeljama gostiju u sugestivnoj atmosferi i znaku kvalitetnog æivl jenja. n

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raditions, fragrances, and tastes of Istria and a family environment have brought the Hotel and Restaurant San Rocco to the top position of the Istrian and Croatian scene.

In the heart of wine, truffle and olive oil region, and immersed in tradition, the Hotel San Rocco is situated on a hill, in the typically Istrian village of Brtonigla (wine village) from where the sea can be reached in just few minutes.

The beauty of Brtonigla is almost magical.

This undiscovered pearl of Istrian Peninsula has beautiful present and exciting future. It offers diverse landscape, and inspires every guest with its beauty, people, and traditions.

Five years ago, members of Fernetich family have opened one of the most beautiful and

+385 52 725 000 +385 52 725 026 info@san-rocco.hr www.san-rocco.hr Hotel-Restaurant-Wellness San Rocco Srednja ulica 2 52 474 Brtonigla- Verteneglio Istra-Croatia

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radicija, mirisi i okusi Istre obiteljsko okruæje doveli su hotel i restoran San Rocco na najviπe pozicije istarske, a i hrvatske scene. U srcu teritorija vina, tartufa i maslinova ulja, udubljen u tradicije, hotel San Rocco nalazi se na breæuljku, u tipiËnome istarskome mjestaπcu Brtonigli, gradu vina,

udaljen samo nekoliko minuta od mora.

Ljepota koja krasi Brtoniglu Ëudesna je. Taj neotkriveni biser istarskog poluotoka pokazuje prekrasnu sadaπnjost i obeÊava nevjerojatnu buduÊnost. Nudi raznoliki krajolik, oduπevljava ljepotom, ljudima i tradicijom.

Obitelj Fernetich otvorila je prije pet godina jedan od najljepπih autentiËnih malih obiteljskih hotela u Hrvatskoj. SlijedeÊi najstroæe kriterije restauracije, drevno obiteljsko imanje pretvoreno je u ekskluzivni turistiËki kompleks od 14 ekskluzivnih soba. Hotel San Rocco idealno je odredište gostima koji æele osjetiti istinske vrijednosti æivota, ljubiteljima gastronomije vina, aktivnog odmora (bike turizam) ili onima koji se jednostavno æele odmoriti u πarmantnome ruralnom okruæju.

Hotel San Rocco Ëetiri je godine za redom proglaπen najboljim boutique hotelom u Hrvatskoj, a 2011. godine dodijeljena mu je trajna nagrada za viπegodiπnju kvalitetu. Gourmet Restoran San Rocco Ëlan je prestiæne europske udruge Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe (JRE), koja promiËe poπtivanje tradicije pod motom talent&passion (talent i strast).

U duhu otmjenosti i tradicije, u jedinstvenom kutku bogatom povijeπÊu i πarmom, nalazi se ta oaza posveÊena opuštanju, okruæena zele-

authentic small family hotels in Croatia. Following a high class restoration to its former glory, this exclusive tourist resort with 14 exquisite rooms was converted from an old family peasant property. The Hotel San Rocco is an ideal destination for all the guests who want to experience true values of life, lovers of gastronomy and wine, people who seek active vacation (bike tourism) or those who simply like to enjoy charming rural environment.

The Hotel San Rocco won the prize for the best boutique hotel in Croatia four years in a row, and in 2011 it was awarded a permanent award for continuous quality. Gourmet Restaurant San Rocco is a member of the prestigious European Association des Jeunes Restorateurs d’Europe (JRE) that promotes respect of tradition under the motto talent & passion.

The Hotel San Rocco radiates refinement and tradition in this unique charming corner of Istria. This oasis is dedicated to relaxation and serenity while surrounded by magical green park. Luxurious, but at the same time discreet ambiance is simply made to meet every needs of our guests in suggestive ambiance and to symbolize the high-quality living. n CROATIA AIRLINES

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stra je zemlja bijelog tartufa i malvazije, najcjenjenijih namirnica suvremene gastronomije i jedna od najuzbudljivijih vinskih regija nove Europe.

Povijest nije uvijek bila naklona Istri kao πto je danas. Ali, baπ zbog te burne i teπke povijesti, rodila se danaπnja jedinstvena i enogastronomski specifiËna Istra. Gastronomija danaπnje Istre temelji se na tri osnovna stupa koji ne vuku korijene iz gastronomije, nego iz povijesti. To su multikulturalnost, siromaπtvo puka i jedinstveni geoklimatski poloæaj.

Multikulturalnost Istra je multikulturalna i multinacionalna regija Ëija je sadaπnjost sazdana od mnogih komadiÊa πto su ga sa sobom donosili doseljenici ili ostavljali osvajaËi stoljeÊima unatrag kroz burnu povijest. Od Histra i Rimljana iz antiËkih vremena, preko Bizanta, Franaka i Venecije u srednjem vijeku, do Austrije, Italije i Jugoslavije u 20. stoljeÊu. »ak i Otomansko Carstvo, koje ovdje nikad nije imalo vlast, i te kako je utjecalo na danaπnji izgled Istre, jer potaknulo je mnoge zbjegove drugih naroda poput Rumunja, Albanaca i Crnogoraca, od kojih su neki ovdje naπli svoje trajno utoËiπte. Uz dvije glavne etniËke skupine, Hrvate i Talijane, Ëija tradicija formira okosnicu danaπnje gastronomije, svaka je od spomenutih kultura donijela sa sobom ili ostavila iza sebe svoj doprinos danaπnjemu gastronomskom bogatstvu Istre.

TeæaËka kuhinja Bilo da je rijeË o plavoj (pomorskoj) Istri, u Ëijoj kuhinji prevladavaju jela od riba, πkoljaka i mekuπaca, ili o zelenoj (unutraπnjosti), gdje prevladavaju maneπtre, πparoge, faæol, kupus, fuæi i njoki, suvremena se istarska kuhinja temelji na nekoÊ svakodnevnim sirotinjskim jelima što su se spravljala od jeftinih namirnica koje su se mogle nabaviti u najbliæem okoliπu. Jelovnici kojima su se hranili plemiÊi i patriciji, temeljeni na velikim koliËinama mesa i divljaËi, oËito nisu bili dovoljno uvjerljivi novim naraπtajima. Tu pobjedu gladnih nad sitima i siromaπnih nad bogatima najbolje pokazuje divlja πparoga.

Nekad hrana oËajnika, hrana divlja u prirodi, danas je ultimativna delicija istarske kuhinje.

U proljeÊe, kad poËne sezona divljih πparoga, gotovo da nema restorana u Istri koji tu jedinstvenu biljku ne preporuËuje s ponosom.

Geoklimatska specifiËnost Geografski poloæaj omoguÊio je Istri joπ jednu specifiËnost. Tu se sreÊe topla mediteranska s prohladnom kontinentalnom klimom. Obale oplakuje toplo Jadransko more, a istodobno se s obronaka Alpa u zaleu po istarskim breæuljcima i poljima spuπta svjeæina. U Istri se moæe naÊi sve bilje kao i na vrelim dalmatinskim otocima, poput ruæmarina, timijana, lovora ili maslina, jedino su, za razliku od ostatka

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Sredozemlja, to grmlje ili stabla ovdje okruæeni zelenom travom, umjesto golim kamenom.

Upravo je takva klima s idealnim omjerom svjeæine i topline, vlage i sunca, omoguÊila æivot i reprodukciju najvaænijoj gomoljastoj izraslini na svijetu − bijelom tartufu (Tuber magnatumu).

Iako se struka joπ nije sloæila jesu li tartufi hrana ili zaËin, svi su sloæni kako je posrijedi jedna od najcjenjenijih namirnica uopÊe.

Plava i zelena Istra Stanovnici Istre, ali i oni drugi koji je vole i posjeÊuju, dijele je na plavu i zelenu. To je u prvom redu geografska podjela izmeu primorskih naselja πto su kroz povijest uglavnom bila okrenuta ribarstvu, brodogradnji i trgovini pod imenom plava Istra i unutraπnjosti, uglavnom zemljoradniËke i πumarske tradicije, pod imenom zelena Istra. Ali, podjela ima i svoje dublje korijene koji se zatim tako lijepo odraæavaju na gastronomski izriËaj. Plava je Istra u srednjem vijeku najprije pripadala Bizantu, poslije Veneciji, a zelena je Istra uglavnom bila pod vlaπÊu Slavena, a poslije njemaËkih i austrijskih grofova. Zbog toga je u unutraπnjosti jedno od klasiËnih jela kupus s kobasicama, πto neodoljivo podsjeÊa na germansku tradiciju, a na obali rado se sprema bakalar, koji je Venecija, na temalju svojih trgovaËkih dosega od Azije do sjevera Europe, joπ u 16. stoljeÊu uvela kao standard u tradiciju istarske kuhinje.

Ipak, unatoË zanimljivim i neobiËnim utjecajima na istarsku tradiciju, glavnina specijaliteta jela su iz neposrednog okoliπa.

Omiljene su ribe plave Istre brancin, πkarpina i list, koje moæete naÊi u gotovo svakome ribljem restoranu. Prava je poslastica istarski brodet od razliËitih vrsta riba, poput palamide i grdobine. To je najËeπÊi naËin pripremanja ribe u neπto manje pretencioznim objektima poput konoba i oπtarija. Jedini fjord u Istri, Limski kanal, vaæno je uzgajaliπte izvrsnih πkoljaka poput dagnji i kamenica, koje moæete u restoranima tik do uzgajaliπta pojesti praktiËno izvaene izravno iz mora. Moæda su najvaæniji dio kuhinje plave Istre rakovice i mekuπci. Buzara od grancigula ili πkampa najcjenjenija je, zatim πkampi u bijelom vinu ili s nekom od pasta. Najbolja jela plave Istre posluæuju se uglavnom u obalnim mjestima s turistiËkim sadræajima, poput Novigrada, Umaga, Rovinja ili Pule.

Zelenu Istru najbolje reprezentira agroturizam u unutraπnjosti. Ondje nalazimo kuhinju koja traæi domaÊu i svjeæu namirnicu, srdaËnoga i jednostavnog domaÊina, pristupaËnu cijenu, te recepte iz kuharica predaka. Zbog toga se osobito cijene juπna jela na kojima su odrastali mnogi naraπtaji. Maneπtra je istarski izraz za pomalo uobiËajeno varivo koje ovdje poprima sasvim drugu dimenziju. KlasiËni sastojci poput graha i komada mesa naÊi Êe se i u istarskim 28

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maneπtrama, ali specifiËan ih naËin pripreme okusom uvelike odvaja od obiËnih variva. Po pravilu u svaku se maneπtru dodaje takozvani peπt, sitno isjeckani i pomijeπani panceta, Ëeπnjak i perπin, πto joj, uz dodatak maslinova ulja na kraju, daje osobit okus. Potraæite osvjeæavajuÊu maneπtru s bobiÊima (mladim kukuruznim zrnima) ili tipiËnu bogatu istarsku maneπtru. Drugo je vaæno jelo zelene Istre fritaja sa πparogama. Vrlo jednostavno, ali efektno i nezamjenjivo jelo za trajanja sezone πparoga. Fuæi su specifiËna vrsta rukom raene tjestenine, koja je zbog neutralna okusa izvrsna podloga za zaËinjenije umake i neizbjeæne tartufe. Tartuf se sluæi gotovo sa svakim jelom u Istri. Tijekom ljeta dostupan je samo neπto manje cijenjen ljetni tartuf (Tuber aestivum), visokovrijedni crni tartuf (Tuber melanosporum) posluæuje se uglavnom zimi, a najvaæniji bijeli tartuf (Tuber magnatum) dostupan je tijekom cijele jeseni i u poËetku zime.

Vina Vinska Istra jednako je uzbudljiva i originalna kao i gastronomska. Ne dijeli se na priobalje i unutraπnjost, nego po nadmorskoj visini i tipu zemlje, jer ti parametri snaænije utjeËu na profil aroma i strukturu vina.

Najvaænije danas jest to πto su vodeÊe vinske sorte u Istri potpuno autohtone. Naime, Ëak i kad su poπasti peronospora i filoksera potkraj 19. stoljeÊa gotovo istrijebile vinograde, Istrani su uspjeli saËuvati svoje stare sorte i posaditi ih nanovo na sigurniji naËin, na ameriËkim podlogama. U danaπnje vrijeme opÊe globalizacije Ëak i neËega tako individualnog kao πto je vino, istarska su vina svojom kvalitetom i osobitoπÊu stila oaza za istraæivaËe i one æeljne novoga.

Meu domaÊim sortama najviπe se istiËu malvazija i teran, ali i neke meunarodne sorte daju dobre rezultate. To su najËeπÊe bordoπke sorte merlot i cabernet sauvignon, koje u kupaæi s teranom ili refoπkom daju izvrsna vina internacionalnog obiljeæja, ali sa specifiËno istarskim izriËajem, osobito kad je posrijedi soËna svjeæina.

Malvazija (malvasia istriana) uvjerljivo je vodeÊa istarska sorta koja zauzima viπe od polovice istarskih vinograda, a u cijeloj Hrvatskoj Ëak je druga sorta po zastupljenosti. UnatoË imenu malvazija koje se moæe naÊi na joπ Ëetrdesetak sorata diljem Sredozemlja, od kojih je veÊina ista porodica ili Ëak samo sinonim istih sorata u drugoj regiji, malvazija istarska unikatna je sorta koja se moæe naÊi samo u Istri. To je potvreno nedavnim DNA analizama svih poznatih sorata s nazivom malvazija. Malvazija postoji u dva oblika. Jedan je svjeæe vino s bogatim mirisom voÊno-cvjetnih aroma, s postojanim mineralnim πtihom u okusu i ugodnim gorkastim tonom πto se tiËe retrookusa. Jamstvo kvalitete za 30

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vodeÊu poziciju. Karakterizira je osobita tamnocrvena boja s refleksima ljubiËaste, voÊni viπnjasti miris s primjesama herbalnih tonova, te æivahan okus visokog intenziteta i obiËno naglaπenijih kiselina. Zbog tih je obiljeæja idealni partner pri veÊini jela zelene Istre kao πto su maneπtre, kobasice, jota ili mesa s roπtilja, a malvazija u viπe sluËajeva odgovara ribljim jelima plave Istre.

Muπkat momjanski (muscat momiano) i druge vrste muπkata treÊa su enoloπka atrakcija Istre. Kod muπkata osobito dolazi do izraæaja klimatoloπka specifiËnost Istre, u kojoj se koliËine sunca i svjeæine nuæne za intenzitet i bogatstvo aroma skladno izmjenjuju u idealnom omjeru. Muπkati iz Istre uvijek intenzivno miriπu na muπkatno groæe i cvjetne note te su uglavnom blago slatkasti, ali imaju i priliËno kiselina, koje im daju svjeæu notu i stvaraju osjeÊaj slasti na retrookusu. n

stria is the land of white truffles and Malvasia. It is the land of the most valued food in gastronomy and the land of new Europe’s most exciting wine regions.

History was not always as kind to Istria as it is today. However, it is thanks to this turbulent and difficult history that the Istria of today, unique and specific in enological and gastronomic terms, was born. Today’s Istrian gastronomy is based on three fundamental pillars which are not rooted in gastronomy but in history: multiculturalism, poverty of the local population, and a unique geo-climatic location.

Multiculturalism Istria is a multicultural and multinational region, whose current essence has been built out of the many pieces brought by immigrants or left by invaders throughout its turbulent, centuries-long history; from the Histrians and Romans in ancient times, to the Byzantines, Franks and Venetians in the Middle Ages, and Austria, Italy and Yugoslavia in the 20th century. Even the Ottoman Empire, which never ruled this region, had a significant impact on Istria’s present-day appearance because they prompted the flights of many refugees from other nations, like Romanians, Albanians and Montenegrins, and some of them found permanent residence here in Istria. Along with the two principal ethnic groups, Croats and Italians, whose traditions form the axis of today’s gastronomy, each of the above cultures brought or left behind contributions to Istria’s current gastronomic wealth.

Peasants’ cuisine Whether we are talking about Blue Istria (the maritime part), whose cuisine is dominated by dishes made of fish, shellfish and molluscs, or

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takav stil oznaka je IQ koju vinari dobivaju od vlastite udruge ako vino proe stroge standarde prilikom ocjenjivanja. To je ujedno tip vina koji morate kuπati kad ste u prilici, jer posrijedi je jedan od najtipiËnijih okusa Istre, koji treba zapamtiti. Drugi tip malvazije jest odleæana malvazija. Za razliku od prethodne ne dozrijeva u inoksu, nego najËeπÊe u veÊim ili manjim drvenim hrastovim baËvama ili onima od akacije. Takva malvazija namijenjena je connossieurima koji od vina oËekuju viπe od osvjeæenja. Odleæane malvazije imaju veoma dug æivotni vijek, πto tu sortu svrstava uz bok samo nekoliko meunarodnih sorata poput chardonnaya, po potencijalu odleæavanja.

Dobar je prilog u dokaz toj tvrdnji Malvazija KozloviÊ Santa Lucia iz 2001., koja je na proπlogodiπnjem natjecanju 10 godina starih vina na IWC Library Collection u Londonu odnijela titulu najboljega bijelog vina na svijetu.

Teran je vodeÊa istarska crna sorta. Doduπe, u ranima devedesetima merlot ju je po zastupljenosti u vinogradima bio potisnuo na drugo mjesto, s kojeg se danas ponovno vraÊa na 32

Green Istria (inland), which favours maneπtra (stews), asparagus, beans, cabbage, fuæi and gnocchi pasta, modern Istrian cuisine is based on food that at one time was eaten every day by the poor and was made of cheap ingredients available in the immediate environment.

Menus enjoyed by the aristocracy and patricians, which were based on large quantities of meat and game, were obviously not compelling enough for the newer generations. This victory of the hungry over the full, and the poor over the rich, is best interpreted by the wild asparagus. Once the food of the desperate, picked wild in nature, today it is the ultimate delicacy of Istrian cuisine. In spring, when the wild asparagus season begins, there is almost no restaurant in Istria which does not proudly recommend this unique plant.

Geo-climatic specifics Another of Istria’s specifics is defined by its geographical position. Here the warm Mediterranean meets the cool continental climate. The shores are washed by the warm Adriatic Sea, while at the same time coolness comes down the slopes of the Alps in the inland to the Istrian hills and fields. Istria boasts all the plants which can be found on the hot Dalmatian islands, like rosemary, thyme, laurel and olives; but, unlike the rest of the Mediterranean, these shrubs or trees are surrounded by green grass instead of bare stone. It was this climate, with its ideal balance of coolness and warmth, humidity and sun, which enabled the existence and renewal of the most important tuberous plant in the world − the white truffle (Tuber Magnatum).

Although experts have not reached agreement on whether truffles are a food or spice, they all agree that this is one of the most valued ingredients in existence.

Blue and Green Istria Istria’s inhabitants, but also other people who love and visit the region, classify it into Blue and Green. This is primarily a geographical classification of the maritime villages which pursued fishing, ship building and trade throughout history under the name of Blue Istria, and Green Istria, the inland region with mostly agricultural and forestry traditions. However, this classification has deeper roots which reflect so beautifully on the culinary expression. In the Middle Ages, Blue Istria belonged first to Byzantium and then to Venice, while Green Istria was mostly ruled by the Slavs and then by German and Austrian counts. This is why one of the classic dishes of the inland is cabbage with sausages, which reminds one of German traditions. Along the seashore people like to prepare codfish, which Venice introduced as a traditional standard of Istrian cuisine, thanks to

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its achievements in trading starting from Asia to the north of Europe back in the 16th century.

However, despite the interesting and unusual influences on Istrian traditions, the majority of its specialties consist of ingredients found in the immediate environment.

Blue Istria’s favourite fishes are sea bass, grouper and sole, which are served in almost all fish restaurants. A true delicacy is Istrian brodetto (fish stew), made of different kinds of fish, like bonito and frogfish. This is the most common way of preparing fish in less pretentious establishments like taverns and oπtarija (pubs). The only fjord in Istria, called the Lim Channel, is an important breeding ground for excellent shellfish like mussels and oysters, which can be enjoyed in the restaurants next to the fish farm, practically lifted directly from the sea. The crustaceans and molluscs are perhaps the most important part of Blue Istrian cuisine. Buzara made of European spider crab or prawns are the most prized, followed by prawns in a white wine sauce or with a type of pasta. Blue Istria’s best dishes are served mainly in maritime tourist-oriented towns like Novigrad, Umag, Rovinj or Pula.

Green Istria is best represented by extensive agro-tourism in the inland. This cuisine re-

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quires local and fresh ingredients, a friendly and simple host, accessible prices and recipes from ancestors’ cookbooks. Therefore, soup dishes, on which entire generations have grown up, are held in high esteem. Maneπtra is an Istrian name for a rather common stew which takes on a whole other dimension here.

Typical ingredients like beans and pieces of meat are found in Istrian maneπtra, but the specific method of preparation sets its flavour far apart from that of regular stews. As a rule, the so-called peπt, finely chopped and mixed bacon, garlic and parsley, is added to every maneπtra, which along with olive oil eventually gives it its particular flavour. Look for the refreshing maneπtra with bobiÊi (young corn) or a typical rich Istrian maneπtra. Another important Green Istrian dish is fritaja with asparagus. It is a very simple and yet impressive dish, irreplaceable during the asparagus season. Fuæi is a specific type of hand-made pasta, whose neutral taste serves as an excellent basis for spicier sauces and obligatory truffles. The truffle is served with almost any dish in Istria. In the summer, only the slightly less valued summer truffle (Tuber aestivum) is available. The highly prized black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) is consumed mostly in winter, while the most important white truffle (Tuber magnatum) is available throughout the autumn and in early winter.

Wines The enological aspect of Istria is just as exciting and important as the gastronomic one. It is not classified into seaside and inland, but divided according to the altitude and type of soil, as these parameters have a stronger effect on the aroma profiles and structures of wines.

The most important fact today is that Istria’s leading wine sorts are completely indigenous.

Namely, even when the epidemics of peronospora and phylloxera in the late 19th century all but destroyed the Istrian vineyards, Istrians managed to preserve their old sorts and plant them again in a safer way, on American soil. In today’s era of general globalization which affects even something as individual as wine, the quality and particular style of Istrian wines are an oasis for researchers and those searching for something new.

Among the local sorts, the most prominent are Malvasia and Teran; however, some of the international sorts also yield good results.

These are mostly Bordeaux sorts, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon which, when blended with Teran or Refosco, produce magnificent wines of an international character, but yet with a specific Istrian tone, especially when it comes to succulent freshness.

Malvasia (malvasia istriana) is by far the leading Istrian sort, taking up as much as half of Istrian vineyards, and is the second most common sort in all of Croatia. Despite its name, Malvasia, which can be found on as many as some forty sorts throughout the Mediterranean, the majority of which belong to the same family or are even a synonym for the same sorts in another region, Istrian Malvasia is a unique sort, found only in Istria. This was recently confirmed

by DNA analysis of all the sorts known as Malvasia. Malvasia comes in two forms. One is a fresh wine with a rich fruity and floral scent, with a lasting mineral touch of flavour and a pleasant bitter aftertaste. The quality guarantee for this style is the IQ label received by wine-makers from their own association, if the wine passes the strict evaluation standards. When you have the opportunity you must taste this type of wine, as it is one of Istria’s most typical flavours which should be remembered. Another type of Malvasia is the aged Malvasia which, unlike the previous one, does not mature in stainless steel barrels, but in smaller oak or acacia barrels. This Malvasia is intended for connoisseurs who expect more than refreshment from a wine. Aged Malvasias have a long life, which ranks this sort alongside only a handful of international sorts, like Chardonnay, in terms of its aging potential. A confirmation of this is the 2001 Malvazija KozloviÊ Santa Lucia which won the title of the world’s best white wine at last year’s competition of 10-year-old wines at the IWC Library Collection in London.

Teran is Istria’s leading red wine sort. Even though it was pushed back to second place in terms of vineyard coverage by Merlot in the early 1990s, it is slowly regaining its leading position. It is characterized by an exceptionally dark red colour with hints of purple, a sour-cherry fruity aroma with additional herbal tones, and a vivacious, highly intense taste, usually with distinct acidic properties.

These features make it an ideal partner with most Green Istria dishes, such as maneπtra, sausages, jota stew or grilled meat, while Malvasia is generally better suited to the fish dishes of Blue Istria.

The Momjan Muscat (muscat momiano) and other types of Muscat are Istria’s third enological attraction. The specific climatological features of Istria are prominent in Muscat, where the amounts of sunlight and fresh air necessary for the intensity and richness of flavour are harmonized in ideal proportions. Istrian Muscats always have an intense Muscat grape scent and floral tones and are usually slightly sweet, but they also have a generous presence of acid, which gives them a nice fresh touch and leaves a sweet aftertaste. n

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■ BAŠTINA HERITAGE

Sjenu svoju bacaju preda se oni koji nose svjetiljku na leima.

(Rabindranat Tagor, Zlatopis, pjesme)

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Piπe/By Goran StojanoviÊ

Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

They throw their shadows before them who carry their lantern on their back.

(Rabindranath Tagore, Stray Birds, poems)

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Na putu od Rovinja prema Puli, uz obalni pojas zapadne Istre, nalaze se Bale ili, na talijanskome, Valle, malen ali dragocjen predstavnik arhaiËne osobitosti. U njemu je sve jarko i intenzivno: modrina neba, sivozeleni maslinici, blistavo zelenilo vinograda, netaknuta priroda, dobrohotni osjeÊaj prihvaÊenosti.

Ovdje Ëovjekovo biÊe biva ispunjeno titrajima koji se Êute samo u mjestima πto zaokupe duh…

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On the way from Rovinj to Pula, along the coastal belt of western Istria, is Bale, or in Italian Valle, a small but valuable example of archaic particularities. In this town everything is bright and intense: the blueness of the sky, the gray-green olive groves, the bright green colour of the vineyards, the unspoiled nature and the benevolent sense of acceptance. Here a human being is ďŹ lled with vibrations that can only be heard in places which captivate one’s soul.

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CRUISES AND TOURS OF CROATIA

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namjerom putujemo u daleke zemlje kako bismo se divili Velikoj piramidi u Gizi, Kineskom zidu, Taj Mahalu u Agri, katedrali Notre-Dame u Parizu, bazilici svetog Petra u Rimu ili nekoj drugoj svjetski poznatoj znamenitosti, a tako Ëesto prolazimo kraj magiËnih sredina, gradova i ljudi koji æive u tiπini svojih prostora, ne hvaleÊi se svojim dosezima, povijeπÊu i rezultatima.

Takva je Istra. Kakvo bogatstvo raznolikosti!

Iako mistiËno povuËena u svoju prostranost, Istra svakoga ozbiljnijeg istraæivaËa i otkrivatelja poziva u svijet svojih tajni. A ima ih bezbroj: u prirodnoj, povijesnoj, obiËajnoj i arhitektonskoj baπtini. U Istri valja skrenuti s glavne ceste ili puta i pohoditi je otvoreno, iskreno, s dobrim namjerama. Tada se, kao neki dobroduπan Ëarobnjak, oprezno otvara sluËajnom dolazniku, nastavljajuÊi osluπkivati snagu njegove poniznosti i namjere. Kad osjeti razumijevanje i poπtovanje, Istra postaje prijatelj − proljetni cvijet u ruci dobronamjernika.

Uzdignut na brdu Mon Perin, stari gradiÊ Bale sadræajna je raskrsnica koja prπti ljepotom, stoljetnim vrijednostima i obiËajima. Utkan je u arkadijski krajolik svojih dolina otmjene ali jednostavne ljepote, s idiliËnim ozraËjem koje, kao i svaka urbana istarska priËa, nastaje u davnim opusima povijesnih sjeÊanja.

Esej o Balama valja poËeti dalekom povijeπÊu, tako dalekom da kreÊemo od mezozoika i dinosaura koji su u njemu obitavali prije 100, 120 ili viπe milijuna godina. Doista, u proπlosti dinosauri bijahu ovdje nastanjeni. Proπlost se skriva u nutrini stijena, a mi, hodajuÊi po njima, tek katkad otkrijemo njihovu poruku. Tek kad nam se okamenina ili fosil jasno pokaæe oku ili kad je izvuËemo iz dubine zemlje, uvijek se nanovo zaËudimo æivotu, jer, treba priznati, ono Ëega nismo svjesni, nismo mi, nego postojanje bez nas.

Prije tridesetak godina, toËnije 1984., pukim sluËajem, talijanski ronilac Dario Boscarolli na morskom dnu Porta Colonea, obalnog podruËja nedaleko od Bala, izronio je kamen neobiËna oblika, koji je istraæivanjem potvren kao kost dinosaura πto je ovdje obitavao u jurskom razdoblju. To nalaziπte odreuje se kao otkriÊe stoljeÊa jer rijeË je o jedinom otkriÊu fosilnih kostiju dinosaura u cijelom sredozemnom podruËju te najstarijim tragovima iz donje krede u Istri, istiËe Flavio Forlani u svojoj knjizi Dinosaurus Histriae. Na tim prostorima u to je vrijeme æivjelo viπe od deset razliËitih, danas izumrlih æivotinjskih vrsta. U Istri su, na desetak mjesta, otkriveni i njihovi tragovi, najËeπÊe stope, pa se zato Istra i nalazi na listi Svjetskog popisa paleontoloπkih nalaziπta.

Meu glomaznim gmazovima hodao je tu i brachiosaurus, gotovo najveÊi dinosaur Ëija

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je teæina dosezala do 30 tona, a duæina do 25 metara. Baljansko nalaziπte, koliko je poznato, jedino je nalaziπte u svijetu koje okamenjene ostatke tih gmazova skriva pod morem. Danas je nalaziπte zaπtiÊeno i kategorizirano, a okamenine njihovih kostiju mogu se razgledati u baljanskoj galeriji Ulika.

Masline su oduvijek bile simbol Boæje providnosti i brige za ljude, snage, odanosti i vjernosti.

Najstariji Êe vam Baljani s nostalgijom reÊi kako se nekada sve do mora, udaljenoga izmeu pet i πest kilometara, moglo stiÊi s masline na maslinu, ne dodirujuÊi zemlju. Danas maslinovih stabala nema viπe u takvoj mnoæini, ali tridesetak ovdaπnjih maslinara vraÊa maslinarstvu dostojanstvo postojanja obnovom zaboravljenih te sadnjom novih maslinika, posebice autohtone sorte Buæa, simbolom tradicionalne ekoloπke poljoprivrede.

VeÊ na ulazu na baljansku ulaznu cestu zaiskri nam pogled na obnovljenu uljaru za masline Emanuela GrubiÊa, koja sjaji oËuvanom proπloπÊu. Od strica Virgilija kupio ju je zapuπtenu, ruπevnu i zatvorenu πezdesetih godina proπloga stoljeÊa. Objekt je nedavno obnovio po posebnom projektu; jednu prostoriju pretvorio je u muzej u kojemu se nalazi restaurirani kameni mlin, preπe i ostali strojevi, stari stotinjak godina. U drugoj, podignuta je 58

nova i suvremena uljara na Ëast i hvalu obiteljske tradicije.

Na trgu poploËenom kamenom, nasuprot glavnom ulazu u starogradsku jezgru, u obnovljenom zdanju gradske palaËe iz 14. stoljeÊa, sreÊemo Zdenku VratoviÊ, proËelnicu, i Edija Pastrovicchija, naËelnika opÊina Bale. IstiËu da su Bale uzdignute na kruniπtu veÊ spomenutog breæuljka Mon Perin. Grad koji sada ima 1295 stanovnika razvijao se u kontinuitetu od prapovijesnih vremena, preko antike i Rimskog Carstva. Tijekom viπestoljetne proπlosti Bale su dijelile sudbinu istarskih naselja: pod vlaπÊu bizantskih careva, zatim Karla Velikog pa akvilejskih patrijaha. Od 1332. godine pod Prejasnom je Republikom Svetoga Marka i tada se Balama priznaje status gradske komune, koji zadræava i tijekom austrijske i francuske dominacije. U zdanju opÊinske administracije i danas se Ëuva Statut MletaËke Republike iz 1477., u kojemu se Bale nazivaju Castel de Valle, odnosno Comun de Valle.

Rimska gradina Castrum Vallis zaglavni je temelj danaπnjih Bala, njegova jezgra, osobito lijepa urbanistiËka cjelina. Sagradio ga je Caius Palcrus s namjerom da obrani solane i ceste, πto su od Pule vodile prema PoreËu, od tada Ëestih upada stanovnika iz unutraπnjosti. I danas ti oËuvani dijelovi bedema s dominantnim

kaπtelom i ulaznim vratima pokazuju putokaz formiranja baljanske urbanosti, njezina æivota, navika i intimnosti ulica i trgova.

Jedna godina znakovito povezuju otok Vis, njegovu Komiæu i daleki puËinski otok Palagruæu s istarskim Balama. To je 1177. godina kad je papa Aleksandar III., prvi nasljednik sv. Petra, pohodio naπe krajeve, prolazio je kroz balski teritorij, zaustavivπi se u samostanu sv. Marije, gdje je udijelio oproπtenje grijeha, i u samostanu sv. Mihovila. Na putu u Veneciju iz Rima papa Aleksandar III. posjetio je i Palagruæu, Vis, Zadar i neke druge gradove na naπoj obali Jadrana.

Baljanske kuÊe graene su u nekoliko koncentriËnih krugova, zbijene u urbanoj varijanti s radnim ili trgovaËkim prostorijama, a u ruralnoj s konobom u prizemlju, povezane tek tiπinom svojih poploËenih ulica. »esto su jednostavna proËelja, ukraπene samo cvijeÊem, a na nekima vidljiva je i godina gradnje, nerijetko u 14. ili 15. stoljeÊu.

Leptiri, leptiri, leptiri! U Balama je leptir zaπtitni znak. Iako grad u svom grbu ima bijeli zadebljani kriæ na crvenom polju, oznake svih ulica u Balama resi lik leptira. Vjerovali ili ne - na tome Ëistome i netaknutom podruËju baljanskog prostora i okolice æivi oko 390 vrsta leptira.

Mnogi od njih zaπtiÊeni su zakonom, jer ubrajaju se u visoko ugroæene vrste koje se rijetko

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mogu naÊi u svijetu. »udesan je pogled na ta divna biÊa i u zelenoj oazi starogradske jezgre, zbog brojnosti i boja.

Baljanske uliËice starogradske jezgre osobito su lijepe, Ëarobno pitome, prijateljski tihe i intimno privlaËne. Njima je prije dva i pol stoljeÊa πetao i talijanski pustolov, sveÊenik, glazbenik, vojnik, πpijun, diplomat i pisac Giacomo Girolamo Casanova Chevalier De Seingalt. Nedavno je otkriveno da je taj poznati ljubavnik u dva navrata, 1743. i 1744. godine, posjetio taj gradiÊ radi mlade gospoice iz obitelji Soardo.

I danas, πetajuÊi tim malim ulicama, izmeu skladnih domova od kojih su neki graeni joπ u romanici, lako se ostavlja uæurbanost suvremenog aktivizma a prihvaÊa vremenska dimenzija koja vibrira frekvencijom mira, magiËnosti zvuka, pokreta, oblika i boja. Tu æive i kreativno stvaraju i poznati umjetnici. Podravskoj slikarici naivne umjetnosti Mariji Peti BoæiÊ Bale su drugi dom veÊ 17 godina. U njezinoj kuÊi s galerijom slike istiËu sjaj ulja na staklu, bogatstvo boja, sklad kompozicije i minuciozan rad. Malo dalje, ponovno umjetniËki prostor, ovaj put poznate keramiËarke Eleonore Grgac, koja keramiku u tehnici raku i glaziranu terakotu zanosno oslikava motivima etnografskog naslijea. Na glavnom trgu, nedaleko od ulaza u starogradsku jezgru, nalazi se i novi arhitektonski studio

mladoga braËnoga para Maura Zulijanija i Dragane MariniÊ, koji su se upoznali na studiju arhitekture u Veneciji, a poslije zavrπetka studija za svoj su dom i radno okruæje izabrali Bale. Svoj umjetniËki otisak veÊ su iskazali u projektiranju novoga gradskog hotela, koji je nastao u zanimljivom procesu adaptacije viπe ruπevnih kuÊa u jedinstvenu cjelinu.

Put ljubavi i entuzijama, kreativnosti, izazova i kontinuirana nadahnuÊa u æivotu Bala ocrtavaju Kamene priËe, idejni projekt Tomislava Pavleke i njegove majke Nade. Æivjeti sebe, reÊi Êe mnogi, vrlo je teπko, a æivjeti sebe u nadahnuÊu obnove nekoliko potpuno devastiranih kuÊa starijih i od 800 godina bilo je mnogim promatraËima, prije dvadesetak godina, znak svojevrsne nerazumnosti i sustavnog Ëuenja.

A Ëuda su se i dogaala.

- Prilikom sanacije podruma navedenih kuÊa, kao i podruma kaπtela Bembo, otkriveni su ostaci materijalne kulture iz prapovijesnog doba. RijeË je o ostacima prapovijesne keramike kojima su se koristili ondaπnji stanovnici gradine, a Ëijom je analizom utvreno da potjeËe iz srednjega bronËanog doba, tj. 1600 godina prije Krista. Nadalje, ËiπÊenjem prostora na vidjelo su izaπle poravnate kamene ploËe, koje su najvjerojatnije bili podovi nastamba − istiËe arheolog Damir MatoπeviÊ iz ZaviËajnog

muzeja grada Rovinja. Danas, ta upornost Pavlekovih jasno je iskazana u rezultatu nadahnute obnove navedenih kuÊa u cjelovitost atrijskih prostora gostoprimstva u kojima, uz otvoreno ognjiπte, moæete uæivati u povijesnim reminiscencijama, ljetnom Open Jazz Festivalu ili izvrsnom domaÊinstvu s obiteljskom toplinom doËeka.

Svake prve subote u kolovozu turistiËka zajednica organizira Baljansku noÊ, puËku feπtu kad Balama vladaju pjesma, ples i domaÊa gastronomija. Ona Ëesto potraje do jutra, kad i stari i mladi, kao u dobra stara vremena, izvuku stolce iz svojih kuÊa, donesu ih na ulicu i malo proÊakulaju - na istroromanskom ili istriotskom dijalektu koji se ovdje joπ odræao od davnih vremena. U toj veseloj noÊi sudjeluju i mnogobrojni gosti koji su Bale odabrali za svoje odrediπte odmora, boraveÊi u Ëarobnosti grada ili nedalekom kampu na dugoj baljanskoj obali, okruæenoj modrim morem i mirisima bujne mediteranske vegetacije.

U starogradskoj jezgri, u drevnom bedemu rimske gradine nalazi se i zamak Soardo-Bembo, danas i najveÊa zgrada u Balama. Nakon pazinske, druga je to najoËuvanija palaËa u Istri.

GotiËko-renesansno proËelje te gospodske rezidencije sa srediπnjim balkonom saËuvano je potpuno, nedirnuto u svojoj izvornosti i sjaju.

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Nastala je od dvaju Ëetvrtastih obrambenih tornjeva staroga kaπtela. Na prijelazu iz 14. u 15. st. izmeu tornjeva (do tada povezanih mostom) sagraen je stambeni dio palaËe ukraπen gotiËkim kvadriforama. Prvi vlasnik palaËe bila je obitelj Soardo. Ostavπi bez muπkih nasljednika, 1618. godine Veronica Soardo udaje se za Ëlana obitelji Bemba, Ëime palaËa prelazi u njihovo vlasniπtvo. Nad ulaznim okvirom glavnih vrata uzidan je lav sv. Marka s otvorenom knjigom i grbom obitelji Bembo, te sunËanim satom nad njim.

To kulturno-povijesno zdanje danas je sjediπte Zajednice Talijana, a veÊ mjesecima u njemu su se zahuktali radovi opseæne restauracije i rekonstrukcije. Delamo tutta forza! U proljeÊe otvaramo svoja vrata turistima, gostima i struËnoj javnosti, istiËe Rosanna Berné, predsjednica Zajednice. Cjelokupna obnova usmjerena je na punu funkcionalnost toga osobitog prostora, koji Êe uskoro, uz dosadaπnje djelatnosti Zajednice, pruæati i nove sadræaje knjiænice i Ëitaonice, ljetne pozornice, glavne dvorane za kulturne i druge organizirane skupove, gastronomiju i smjeπtaj.

Od sakralnih znamenitosti, veliku pozornost privlaËi kripta u æupnoj crkvi, koju je ugradio æupnik Deperis. Deperis je na mjestu male ranokrπÊanske crkvice iz 5. ili 6. stoljeÊa sam sagradio novu crkvu. Iznimnost je u tome πto je taj Ëovjek sam napravio projekt i vodio gradnju, tako da je bio i projektant i poduzetnik.

Svladavπi neke administrativne probleme i prepreke s tadaπnjim crkvenim vlastima, Deperi, gradeÊi novu crkvu, u njezinu kriptu pohranjuje sve vrednije predmete do kojih je doπao demontirajuÊi staru, istiËe Roman LatkoviÊ u svojoj knjizi Vilinska Istra.

InaËe æupna crkva s romaniËkim raspelom, koju je podigao Deperis, posveÊena je Pohodu Blaæene Djevice Marije, istiËe njezin sadaπnji æupnik, veleËasni Darko ZgrabliÊ. Unutraπnjost ima iste dimenzije kao Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu; trobrodna je s dvanaest monolitnih stupova dobivenih iz lokalnog kamenoloma.

Novu je baziliku posvetio biskup Glavina 1882. godine, kao i podzemnu kriptu u kojoj je smjeπten kameni sarkofag iz druge polovice osmoga stoljeÊa, s relikvijama blaæenog Julijana, balskog franjevca, zaπtitnika grada koji je umro u 14. stoljeÊu. Crkveni zvonik, sagraen 1856., zanimljivo, odvojen je od crkve. Kroz stoljeÊa bio je prenosnik zbivanja tih vremena: zvonila su tu zvona na osobit naËin: zbog poæara, nevremena, za mrtve i molitvu, opominjala moreplovce na maglu te ih usmjeravala na sigurna pristajanja, sazivala su opÊinska vijeÊa, okupljala narodni sabor. U baljanskom kraju, osim æupne crkve, joπ 22 crkve krase okolna brda, mjesta i provinciju.

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U ambijentu crkve sniman je i film o Giuseppeu Garibaldiju, talijanskom borcu iz 19. stoljeÊa i darovitom lideru koji je uvelike pridonio ujedinjenju Italije i njezinoj slobodi. Tu je poznati glumac Franco Nero − u liku Garibaldija − dao sveËanu prisegu... Æupna crkva Ëuva i drveno raspelo te drveni kip Gospe od Mon Perina iz 15. stoljeÊa, koji je naen iskapanjem kraj gradskih bedema.

Starosjedioci kazuju da kip ima Ëudotvornu moÊ, a legenda istiËe kako su jedne vrlo suπne godine nakon mnogih molitvi pred kipom nad Bale doπli oblaci s jakom kiπom koja je spasila mjesto od posljedice velike suπe. Kiπa je, nastavlja legenda, padala samo u Balama, a sva su okolna mjesta ostala bez vodenih oblaka i potrebne kiπe.

U Bale se lako zaljubiti na prvi pogled. Za to je dovoljno uÊi u ovaj mali svijet nadahnute i pradavne urbanosti u kojoj ljudi znaju æivjeti svoju viziju. Ovdje se iskustvo proπlosti pretaËe u znanje kreiranja buduÊnosti. Primjeri primijenjenog vizionarstva vidljivi su i u veoma lijepoj sportskoj dvorani, koja je osvojila prvu nagradu na Svjetskom festivalu arhitekture u Barceloni 2008. godine. Interpolacija dvorane, kao suvremenog objekta u prostor tradicionalnoga istarskog mjesta, s motivom tradicionalnog kaæuna i suhozida u gradnji dvorane i njezina oploπja, zaista je Ëudesan. I novosagraena osnovna πkola te razvoj nove gradske infrastrukture samo dokazuju razboritost u vizionarskom razvoju toga gradiÊa.

Iznad svega, Balama treba priÊi srcem, djeËjom otvorenoπÊu i Ëudesnom zbunjenoπÊu. Tako Êete najlakπe doæivjeti oËaranost prostorom u brdovitim dolinama izvorne prirodnosti. Tada Êe i Bale prihvatiti vaπe druπtvo, vaπe razumijevanje, prijateljstvo i ljubav koju svi nosimo u sebi, joπ u mnogoËemu neosvijeπtenu.

Doista, ako zavolite Bale − one su vam spremne uzvratiti tu ljubav. Viπestruko.

■ e intentionally travel to distant lands to admire the Great Pyramid of Giza, the Great Wall of China, the Taj Mahal in Agra, the Cathedral of NotreDame in Paris, St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, or some other world famous landmarks, and so often we ignorantly pass by magical places, the cities and people who live in the silence of their space, not boasting of their achievements, history or results.

That is what Istria is like. What a wealth of diversity! Although mystically withdrawn in its spaciousness, it beckons every self-respecting explorer and discoverer into the world of its mysteries. And there are many of them; in the natural, historical, traditional and architectural heritage. In Istria it is useful to turn off the main

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road or path and visit the area with open, honest and good intentions. Then Istria, like some benevolent wizard, carefully opens to the chance passerby, continuing to listen to the strength of their humility and sincerity of intent.

When it feels understanding and respect, Istria becomes a friend - a spring flower in the hands of a well-intentioned person.

Nestled on top of the hill Mon Perin, woven into the Arcadian landscape of the valley, Bale boasts elegant but simple beauty. Its idyllic atmosphere, as in every urban Istrian story, originates in the ancient opus of historical memory.

This ancient townlet is a crossroads bursting with beauty, ancient values and customs.

One should start a story about Bale in the distant past, so distant that it takes us back to the Mesozoic Era and the dinosaurs which inhabited the area 100, 120 or more million years ago. Indeed, dinosaurs really lived here in the past. And the past is hidden inside of the rocks on which we walk and very seldom manage to discover their message. Only when a fossil appears clearly before our eyes or when we pull it out from the depth of the soil, do we again marvel at life because we need to admit: what we are not aware of is not us, but rather, existence without us.

Some 30 years ago, more precisely in 1984, by pure chance, Italian diver Dario Boscarolli emerged from the bottom of the sea at Porto Colone, an offshore area near Bale, with a strangely-shaped stone. Research proved that this was a bone of a dinosaur, a creature which inhabited the area during the Jurassic period.

This site has been declared the discovery of the century because this was the only discovery of fossilised dinosaur bones in the entire Mediterranean region and the oldest trace of the lower Cretaceous period in Istria. This is according to Flavio Forlani’s book Dinosaurus Histriae. At that time, more than ten different animal species inhabited this area. Nowadays, those animals are extinct. Their traces have been discovered in some dozen places all over Istria, all of which have been included into the World Heritage List of Sites Related to Palaeontology. The Brachiosaurus, one of the biggest dinosaurs, was among the giant creatures which roamed the area. It weighed up to 30 tonnes and its body was up to 25 metres long. The site near Bale, as far as we know, is the only site worldwide which hides the fossils of these reptiles at the bottom of the sea. The site is now protected and categorized, and the fossilized bones may be viewed at the Ulika Gallery in Bale.

Olives have always been a symbol of God’s providence and his concern for people, power, loyalty and fidelity. The oldest inhabitants of

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Bale will tell you with nostalgia that at one time you could go from olive tree to olive tree without setting foot on the ground, all the way to the sea, thus covering a distance of about five to six kilometres. There are not as many olive trees today. However, about thirty of today’s olive growers have brought back the dignity of their existence by giving a new lease of life to the neglected olive groves and by planting new olive trees, particularly the indigenous variety Buza, a symbol of traditional ecological agriculture.

Already at the entrance to the access road to Bale our eyes are drawn to the restored olive oil mill owned by Emanuel GrubiÊ, which shines with its preserved past. He bought it from his uncle Virgil in the 60s of last century. It had been run-down, dilapidated and closed at that time. The object was soon restored in line with a special project; one room was turned into a museum which housed the restored stone mill, the presses and other machinery that are a hundred years old. In the second room a new and modern mill was erected to the honour and prize of the family tradition.

On the stone-paved square, opposite the main entrance to the old town, in the renovated building of the city palace from the 14th century, we find Zdenka VratoviÊ and Edi Pastrovicchio, the head and mayor of Bale, respectively. They point out that Bale was erected on the crown of the already mentioned hill Mon Perin. The life of this city, which now has 1295 inhabitants, has evolved continuously since pre-historic time, through antiquity and the Roman Empire.

Over the past centuries, Bale has shared the fate of other Istrian villages; the rule of the Byzantine emperors was followed by the rule of Charlemagne, and then the Patriarchate of Aquileia. From 1332, under the Most Serene Republic of Saint Mark, it was then that Bale was acknowledged the status of a city commune, which was maintained throughout Austrian and French domination. Even today, the building of the municipal administration houses the Statute of the Venetian Republic from 1477 in which Bale was called Castel de Valle, that is, Comun de Valle.

The Roman fort, Castrum Vallis, was the foundation of today’s Bale, its core, and constitutes a beautiful urban complex. It was built by Caius Palcrus with the intention to defend the salt works and roads which ran from Pula to PoreË, since they were frequently attacked by people living inland. Today, these preserved parts of the walls, with the dominating castle and the front door, show signs of formal urban living in Bale, including its life, habits and the social intimacy of its streets and squares.

One year, the island of Vis, its Komiæa, and the

distant offshore island Palagruæa were significantly connected with Istrian Bale! This was in 1177 when Pope Alexander III, the first successor of St. Peter, visited our region, passing through the territory of Bale, stopping at the St. Mary monastery, where he granted forgiveness of sins, and at the St. Michael monastery. On his way to Venice from Rome, Pope Alexander III visited Palagruæa, Vis, Zadar and other cities on our Adriatic coast.

The houses in Bale were built in several concentric circles, compressed in their own selves, connected only with the silence of their paved streets. The town version had business and commercial premises, whereas rural houses had wine cellars on the ground floors. They often had simple facades, decorated only with flowers, and the year of construction was visible on some of them, often from the 14th or 15th century.

Butterflies, butterflies, butterflies! The butterfly is the protective symbol of Bale. Although the town’s coat of arms is made up of a bold white cross on a red background, every street sign in Bale is marked with a butterfly. Believe it or not - throughout the uncontaminated and pristine area of Bale and its environs there are about 390 species of butterflies. Many of them are protected by law because they constitute a highly endangered species which are rarely found in the world. It is marvellous to see these wonderful creatures in the green oasis of the old town, where their numbers and colours give the impression of a magical detachment from the world in which we live.

The streets in the old town of Bale are particularly beautiful, magically calm, pleasantly quiet and intimately attractive. Two and a half centuries ago, these streets were walked by the Italian adventurer, priest, musician, soldier, spy, diplomat and writer Giacomo Girolamo Casanova Chevalier de Seingalt. It was recently discovered that the famous lover visited this town twice for a young lady from the Soardo family, in 1743 and 1744.

Even today, walking the small streets, between the harmonious homes, some of which are constructed in the Romanesque style, it is easy to leave the bustle of modern activism and accept the time dimension which vibrates with the frequency of peace, magical sounds, movement, shapes and colours. Well-known artists live and realize their creations here. For 17 years already, Bale has been a second home to the naive art painter Marija Peti BoæiÊ from Podravina. In her house she has a gallery of her paintings which emphasizes the glow of oil on glass, the richness of colours, the harmony of the compositions and the minutious works.

A little further away is another artistic space.

École Française de Zagreb L’école, un chemin vers l’avenir * The Ecole française de Zagreb offers children aged 3 to 14 a complete high enthusiastic teachers.

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Our pupils are all equipped with a personal computer and have a library of more than 3000 books at their disposal.

To discover more about our school, please make an appointement with our secretary at 01 234 77 10. *School, a path to the future

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This belongs to the famous ceramist Eleonora Grgac, whose ceramics in Raku technique and glazed terra cotta spectacularly portrays features of ethnographic heritage. On the main square, near the entrance to the old town, there is new architectural studio of a young married couple, Mauro Zulijani and Dragana MariniĂŠ, who met when they were studying architecture in Venice, and upon completion of their studies they chose Bale for their home and work environment. They have already made their artistic mark in the design of the new city hotel, which was created by the interesting process of adapting a number of dilapidated houses into a uniďŹ ed whole.

The path of love and enthusiasm, creativity, challenge and continuous inspiration in life in Bale is conveyed by the Kamene PriËe, a conceptual design by Tomislav Pavleka and his mother Nada.

According to many, living one’s life by being true to one’s self is very hard; when somebody decided twenty years ago to live their life by following the inspiration of renovating several completely devastated old houses, some over 800 years old, many observers saw that as a sign of a kind of insanity and a source of systematic wonderment. And wonders indeed did happen! During the repairs of the basements of these houses, and the cellar of the Bembo castle, the remains of material culture from pre-historic time were discovered.

These were the remains of pre-historic ceramics which were used by the then inhabitants of the ruins, and by analysis it was conďŹ rmed that they originated from the Middle Bronze Age, i.e., 1600 BC. Furthermore, by cleaning the area, smooth stone tiles have come to light, which are likely to have been the oors of the living quarters, said Damir MatoĎ€eviĂŠ, an archaeologist at the Regional Museum of Rovinj. Today, Pavleka’s persistence is clearly seen in the result: the inspired reconstruction of these houses has turned them into an integral atrial area of hospitality, where you can enjoy historical reminiscences by an open ďŹ replace, the summer Open Jazz Festival or excellent hospitality, the kind one can expect from a warm-hearted family.

Every ďŹ rst Saturday in August, the tourist ofďŹ ce organizes Bale Night, a folk festival at which Bale is overtaken by song, dancing and local cuisine.

It can often last until morning, when the old and young, like in the good old times, pull chairs out of their homes, bring them into the street and chat a little − either in the Istro-Roman or Istriot language which is still spoken here since ancient times. That joyous night is attended by many guests who have chosen Bale for their holiday destination, staying in the magic of the city or at a nearby camp along the long Bale coast, surrounded by the blue sea and the scent of lush Mediterranean vegetation.

In the old town, within the ancient walls of the Roman ediďŹ ce, lies the castle Soardo-Bembo, now

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the largest building in Bale. After the one in Pazin, this is the second best preserved palace in Istria. The Gothic-Renaissance facade of this lordly residence with a central balcony is fully preserved, untouched in its originality and brilliance. It was created from two square defence towers of the old castle. At the turn of the 14th to the 15th century, the residential part of the palace decorated with Gothic quadriphore was built between the towers (until then connected by a bridge). The Soardo family were the first owners of the palace. Left without a male heir, Veronica Soardo married a member of the Bembo family in 1618, and the ownership of the palace was transferred to them. Engraved above the main entrance door frame is the lion of St. Mark with an open book and the Bembo family crest, as well as a sun clock above it.

This cultural-historic building is now the headquarters of the Italian Community, and extensive works of restoration and reconstruction have been taking place here for months.

Delamo tutta forza! In the spring we open our doors to tourists, guests and professionals, adds Rosanna Berné, president of the Community. The entire reconstruction is focused on the full functionality of this exceptional space that will soon, along with the current activities of the Community, offer new contents, such as a library and reading room, a summer theatre, a main hall for cultural and other organized gatherings, gastronomy and accommodation.

In terms of the sacred sites, special attention is drawn to the crypt in the parish church, which was built by pastor Deperis. On the place where a small early Christian church from the 5th or 6th century had been, Deperis built a new church all alone! What is so exceptional is that this man, made a project and led the construction, so that he was the designer and contractor. Having overcome some administrative problems and obstacles with the then church authorities, Deperis stored all the valuables he had recovered during the dismantling of the old church in the crypt of the new church building! Roman LatkoviÊ points this out in his book Vilinska Istra (Fairy Istria).

Deperis’ parish church with a Romanesque crucifix was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, said the current pastor, the reverend Darko ZgrabliÊ. The interior is of the same dimensions as the Euphrasian Basilica in PoreË; a triple-nave church with twelve monolithic columns obtained from the local quarries.

The new basilica was consecrated by Bishop Glavina in 1882, as was the underground crypt which houses a stone sarcophagus from the second half of the eighth century, with relics of Blessed Julian of the Bale Franciscans, who was the city’s patron saint and who died in 66

the 14th century. The bell tower, built in 1856, interestingly, is separated from the church.

Throughout centuries it was the broadcaster of the events of the time. The bells tolled in different ways for fires, storms, prayers for the dead, to remind sailors of the fog and guide them to safe docking, to convene the municipal council and to gather the national Parliament.

In the area of Bale, in addition to the parish church, there are 22 churches which adorn the surrounding hills, towns and countryside.

The church served as the stage for a film about Giuseppe Garibaldi, an Italian fighter from the 19th century and a gifted leader who had significantly contributed to the unification of Italy and its freedom. Here the famous actor, Franco Nero − playing the role of Garibaldi, gave a solemn oath...

The parish church preserves the wooden crucifix and the wooden statue of Our Lady of Mon Perin from the 15th century, which was found during excavations near the city walls.

The natives say that the statue has miraculous power, and a legend has it that one very dry year, after many people prayed before the statue, clouds came over Bale with heavy rain that saved the area from what would have been the consequences of a drought. The rain, the legend continues, fell only in Bale, while all the surrounding villages remained without the clouds filled with water and the needed rain.

It is easy to fall in love with Bale at first sight.

For that it is enough just to enter this little world of inspired and ancient urbanity, where people know how to live their visions. Here, past experiences translate into knowledge for creating the future. Examples of applied visionary are evident especially in the beautiful sports hall, which won first prize at the World Architecture Festival in Barcelona in 2008. The interpolation of the hall, as a modern building in the area of a traditional Istrian town, with the motif of the traditional kaæuns (stone huts) and drywall in the construction of the hall and its surface area is truly amazing. The newly built primary school and the development of new urban infrastructure just go to prove a sense of understanding in the visionary development of the town.

Above all, Bale should be approached with heart, children’s openness and amazing bewilderment. In this way, you will most easily experience the fascination with space which lives in the mountainous valleys of authentic nature. Then Bale will accept your company, your understanding, friendship and love that we all carry within ourselves, yet in many ways unaware of it.

Really, if you come to love Bale − it is ready to return that love. Multiple times.

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Kvarner - just a short flight away...

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Kvarner is one of Croatia’s best kept secrets with fabulous beaches, seafood, wine, seaside promenades, watersports... and a touch of romance

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Æ

elite odmor ili predah na moru? Ili πumskom krajoliku? Uæivate u samotnim otocima? Na koncertu u prekrasnoj crkvi? U ritmu moderne glazbe? Uæitak boravka na moru kombinirali biste sa svjeæim veËerima i noÊima u gorju? I ne samo to: popisu æelja ili moguÊnosti dodajte joπ mnoge vrijedne spomenike, zanimljive izloæbe, tradicionalne manifestacije, bogatu wellness ponudu i najbolju aromaterapiju na otvorenome, voænju biciklom, pjeπaËenje, adrenalinske sportove, uæitak u netaknutoj prirodi u nacionalnim parkovima i parkovima prirode.... ©to god odabrali, pa Ëak i kombinirali u jednome jedinom danu, cilj je isti: Kvarner!

Ne bez razloga, slogan je kvarnerskog turizma: Raznolikost je lijepa. I doista jest!

Na Kvarneru, regiji na kojoj se suprotnosti spajaju u savrπen sklad bezbrojnih moguÊnosti, svoj Êe kutak pronaÊi oni koji vole bljeπtavilo mondenih ljetovaliπta duge i slavne proπlosti poput Opatije, dinamiËnost gradova kao πto je Rijeka, turistiËku tradiciju Crikvenice i Novog Vinodolskog, ljepote i osobitih priËa otoka Cresa i Loπinja, Krka i Raba…

Posluπajte vrhunski jazz ili klapsku pjesmu, zapleπite uz zvuke evergreena, posjetite svetiπta, napiπite poruku staroslavenskim pismom glagoljicom ili pak uæivajte u dogaanjima temeljenima na tradiciji. Budite romantiËni, neobuzdani, aktivni... budite to πto jeste i πto ste odavno æeljeli a niste mogli, znali, smjeli...

U lokalnoj konobi ili vrhunskom restoranu, uz more, u gorju ili u romantiËnom akropolskom gradiÊu kuπajte najbolje πkampe, mediteransku hranu zaËinjenu izvrsnim ovdaπnjim maslinovim uljem, divljaË, divlje πparoge, gljive... a uz njih i odliËna kvarnerska vina. Pa onda ne zaboravite slastice od treπanja, maruna, agruma ili borovnica, kao i tradicionalne torte Ëiji se tajni sastojci prenose iz generacije u generaciju. Koliko izazova!

Jesmo li rekli sve? Ni izdaleka! Ono samo vama najljepπe i najvaænije otkrijte sami − tu, vama tako blizu, na Kvarneru. Dobro doπli! ■

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re you longing for a holiday or a break at sea? Or in a forest landscape per-

haps? Does visiting a secluded island sound enticing? Do you enjoy concerts in beautiful churches? Or do you prefer the beat of modern music? Would you like to combine the benefits of a seaside holiday with the advantages of spending the evenings and nights in the fresh mountain air? The list does not end here, as there are also valuable cultural monuments, interesting exhibitions, traditional events, a wide range of wellness services, the best open-air aromatherapy, cycling, hiking, adrenaline sports, and beautiful natural scenery in national and nature parks.

Whatever you choose, or even combine in one day, the goal remains the same: Kvarner!

It is not for nothing that Kvarner’s tourism slogan is Diversity is beautiful. Diversity really is beautiful!

Kvarner, a region where contrasts merge into a perfect harmony of endless possibilities, is the perfect destination for those looking for the splendour of fashionable resorts with a long and glorious past such as Opatija, the brisk urban life of cities like Rijeka, the tourism tradition of resorts such as Crikvenica or Novi Vinodolski, and the unique beauty of islands like Cres, Loπinj, Krk, or Rab. Listen to excellent jazz or a concert by a traditional a cappella choir; dance to the sound of evergreen hits; visit ancient shrines; write a message using the Old Slavic Glagolitic alphabet; or enjoy festivals based on local traditions. Be romantic, unrestrained, active...

Be what you really are and what you have always wanted to be but were not able to, did not know how to, or did not dare to…

Visit a local tavern or an elegant restaurant right by the sea, in the mountains or in a romantic hilltop town. Taste the best scampi and excellent Mediterranean specialities dressed with the superb local olive oil. Try the venison,

asparagus and mushrooms, washed down with a glass of excellent wine from the Kvarner region. After that, do not forget so savour a dessert made with cherries, sweet chestnuts, citrus fruits or blueberries, or a traditional cake whose secret ingredients have been passed down from generation to generation. There are so many choices!

Have we said everything? Not quite! It is up to you to discover what is most precious for you here, so close to you, in Kvarner. Welcome! ■

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TRADICIJA TRADITION ■

Gradnjom samostana male braÊe u Dubrovniku 1317. godine osnovana je i glasovita franjevaËka ljekarnica, koja neprekidno radi sve do danas. Te je godine Veliko vijeÊe DubrovaËke Republike donijelo odluku da se poruπi franjevaËki samostan sv. Tome na Pilama i sagradi novi, danaπnji, unutar gradskih zidina. Stoga se godina osnutka samostana poistovjeÊuje s godinom osnutka njegove ljekarnice, i to kao treÊe apoteke po starosti, poslije one u Bagdadu i Padovi.

When the Monastery of Friars Minor was built in Dubrovnik in 1317, the famous Franciscan pharmacy was also established, which has been in continuous operation until today. That year, the Great Council of the Dubrovnik Republic adopted a Resolution to tear down the Franciscan Monastery of St. Thomas at Pile and build a new one within the city walls, the one that is presently there. Therefore, the year when the monastery was founded is also considered the year when the pharmacy was founded, as the third oldest pharmacy after the ones in Baghdad and Padua.

Piše/By Kate Bagoje Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

ovijest europskog ljekarniπtva seæe u davna vremena, sve od drevnog Egipta, preko stare GrËke i Rima, do razdoblja arapske prisutnosti u Europi. U poËetku nije postojalo samostalno zanimanje ljekarnika nego je bilo Ëvrsto vezano uz lijeËniËko zvanje, a ulogu tih Ëudotvoraca koji su vraÊali vjeru i nadu, tijelo i duπu u æivot, preuzimali su sveÊenici pomaæuÊi bolesnima

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religijskim obredima. S vremenom je nastala potreba za znanjem koje Êe se baviti iskljuËivo pripravljanjem ljekovitih tvari protiv mnoπtva bolesti i epidemija, pa se ljekarniπtvo sve viπe odvajalo od zanimanja lijeËnika.

Roendanom europskog ljekarniπtva smatra se 1240. godina kad je kralj Fridrik II. izdao u Napulju svoj poznati Medicinski edikt, kojim je odvojio farmaciju od medicine, tj. ljekarniπtvo

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od lijeËniπtva. Poslije toga nastale su mnoge ljekarnice πirom Europe kao zasebne zdravstvene ustanove.

Na tlu Hrvatske osnivaju se prve ljekarnice pod utjecajem nedalekih talijanskih obala, a ljekarniπtvo u hrvatskim gradovima ne zaostaje za ljekarniËkim umijeÊem najrazvijenijih srediπta Europe. Prva graanska ljekarnica u Hrvatskoj bila je otvorena u Trogiru veÊ 1271. godine.

Apoteka se tada nazivala ostava, pa prodavaonica, jer se uz razliËite lijekove u njoj nudilo i druge potrepπtine. Otud naziv speciarius za ljekarnika. Tek se prave ljekarnice, koje su izdavale samo lijekove, pojavljuju u renesansi, iako se i u njima, uz lijekove, moglo kupiti razliËito kandirano voÊe, alkoholni napici i sliËno.

ZaËeto u sjeni i tajnovitosti egipatskih hramova, procvalo u toplini antiËkih atrija, ljekarniπtvo je, viπe od drugih znanosti, kao po tradiciji naπlo utoËiπte i saËuvalo svoju æivotnu energiju u tiπini i miru samotnih samostana kroz duga stoljeÊa srednjovjekovlja. Poput utvrda, samostani su bili okruæeni visokim zidovima, gdje su redovnici razvili zdravstvenu sluæbu, njegovali bolesnike ljekovitim biljem iz svojih vrtova, kao i drugim lijekovima s kojima su se upoznavali ËitajuÊi antiËku literaturu. Bili su to benediktinci, cisterciti, kartuzijanci, franjevci, dominikanci i pavlini.

Tako je gradnjom samostana male braÊe u Dubrovniku 1317. godine osnovana i poznata franjevaËka ljekarnica s neprekidnim kontinuitetom rada sve do danas. Te je godine Veliko vijeÊe DubrovaËke Republike donijelo odluku da se poruπi franjevaËki samostan sv. Tome na Pilama i sagradi novi, danaπnji, unutar gradskih zidina. Stoga se godina osnutka samostana poistovjeÊuje s godinom osnutka njegove ljekarnice, i to kao treÊe apoteke po starosti poslije one u Bagdadu i Padovi. Franjevci su, gradeÊi samostan, istodobno mislili i na ljekarnicu kao pravilo svoga reda da se osobita briga mora voditi o bolesnoj braÊi. I dubrovaËki dominikanci imali su svoju ljekarnicu sve do dolaska Francuza, o Ëemu svjedoËi portret njihova posljednjeg ljekarnika fra Vita de Sanctisa, danas izloæen u samostanskoj zbirci.

Povijesni podaci o ljekarnici male braÊe od njezina osnutka pa do razornog potresa 1667. godine vrlo su oskudni jer bogati je arhiv samostana izgorio u poæaru, a s njim i svi podaci 76

o samostanu i ljekarnici. Jedini izvor pisanih dokumenata iz samostanskog arhiva potjeËe od redovnika koji je preæivio potres, a to je samostanska kronika oca Vitalisa AndrijaπeviÊa, koju je napisao od 1643. do 1713. godine. U poËetku je umetnuo i neke biljeπke iz ranijeg doba, pa tako saznajemo da je u prizemlju samostana do 1681. godine bila ljekarnica, aromatarium, u Dubrovniku zvana spiËarija.

Suprotno mnogim miπljenjima, ta je ljekarnica prvotno zamiπljena i osnovana kao javna ljekarnica, a ujedno i za potrebe bolesne samostanske braÊe (Regula Fratrum Minorum, Caput 6) jer njezinim se osnivanjem rjeπavalo i pitanje osiguranja materijalne baze egzistencije braÊe. Rad u apoteci bio je humanitarne naravi i u duhu sv. Franje, kojim se i on sam bavio u poËetku svog obraÊenja, te u skladu s tradicijom redovniπtva kad su samostanska Ëuvaliπta bila jedine apoteke, a redovnici jedini apotekari. Navedeni razlog osnutka i postojanja ljekarnice male braÊe razvidan je i u knjigama ekonomske administracije provincije, gdje se biljeæio godiπnji prinos od apoteke. Tomu ide u prilog i prvotni smjeπtaj ljekarnice u prizemnom dijelu samostana. Posrijedi je bila manja prostorija ispod starog sata, smjeπtena izmeu sakristije i dvorane kapitula, s dvojim vratima, od kojih su jedna izlazila na Prijeko, a druga u klaustar. To je bilo u dijelu samostana sagraenome prije onoga gornjega dijela u kojemu je bila smjeπtena samostanska bolnica.

O. AndrijaπeviÊ zabiljeæio je ozlojeenost braÊe kad je vizitator iz Aquile 1681. godine naloæio da se ljekarnica preseli u gornji dio samostana, pod svodove gornjeg klaustra, u neposrednu blizinu samostanske bolnice.

Iako manje pristupaËne, te su ustanove bile mnogo prikladnije za rad redovnicima. Ljekarnica je na tome mjestu nastavila s radom sve do pada moÊne DubrovaËke Republike.

Nakon kraÊe Napoleonove vladavine u Dubrovniku, vlast je preuzela Austrija, koja zahtijeva prilagodbu austrijskomu apotekarskom zakonodavstvu i traæi od voditelja apoteke poloæen ispit na jednome carskom sveuËiliπtu sa stjecanjem diplome, ugroæavajuÊi tako viπestoljetnu egzistenciju ljekarnice. Bilo je to prvi put da dræavna vlast postavlja ljekarnicima uvjete za rad, jer slavna je Republika sv. Vlaha bila zadovoljna znanjem i iskustvom koje su stari spiËari vjekovima prenosili na svoje mlade nasljednike bez diploma. Republika se osobitim marom zanimala za ljekarnicu male braÊe, a graanstvo i plemstvo, kako nju tako i bolnicu, potpomagali su bogatim nadarbenim potporama, πto je zabiljeæeno u knjizi Testamenta Notariae.

Pred teπkoÊama se naπla i uprava samostana, nemoÊna da nekoga od redovnika odmah

poπalje na studij ili da zaposli nekoga vanjskog apotekara, i to zbog viπe razloga. Ipak, trebalo je odræati kontinuitet rada ljekarnice, pa su redovnici uloæili mnogo truda i diplomatske vjeπtine da zadræe svoga dugogodiπnjeg ljekarnika u sluæbi voenja ljekarnice dok se ne nae po zakonu osposobljen ljekarnik. Austrijska je vlast pokrenula Ëak i pitanje pravnog postojanja stare ljekarnice, πto je rijeπio sam car Franjo I. u korist samostana, dodijelivπi mu 1828. godine posebnu povlasticu po kojoj Samostan male braÊe i dalje ostaje vlasnikom svoje ljekarnice, dræaÊi se vaæeÊih zdravstvenih propisa πto se svega tiËe. No, pitanje akademski obrazovanog apotekara trebalo je rijeπiti πto prije, pa je to i uËinjeno. Prvi diplomirani ljekarnik postao je Ivan KuzmiÊ, ak poznatoga padovanskog sveuËiliπta. Nadalje, prema austrijskim propisima, ljekarnica je trebala biti pristupaËna i lako dostupna svojim korisnicima, a ona stara unutar gornjeg dijela samostana, kao i zbog klauzure, to nije bila. Razmiπljalo se o preseljenju u renesansnu crkvu sv.Spasa u neposrednoj blizini, koju su vlasti bile pretvorile u skladiπte tuinske vojske, πto je bilo krajnje nedopustivo za to zavjetno svetiπte DubrovËana. Nakon dugog pregovaranja potpisan je i ugovor 1832. godine, ali crkva nikad nije ustupljena za prostorije ljekarnice, pa je stara ostala na svome mjestu u gornjem klaustru.

Ali, sve ono πto Austrijanci nisu napravili preko svojih Instrukcija na πtetu ljekarnice, obavila je farmaceutska industrija koja je izmijenila ne samo rad starih spiËara, nego i izgled starih spiËarija. Ljekarnica starog tipa postala je neprikladna za potrebe novog vremena, pa je ljekarnica 1901. godine morala napustiti svoju stoljetnu tiπinu i spokoj drevnog klaustra i ponovno se vratiti pod svodove donjeg trijema, ali ne na prvotno mjesto, nego nasuprot, uz ulaz u trijem. Ureenje nove ljekarnice velikoduπno je financirao Inje Amerling, samostanski dobroËinitelj u mnogim prigodama. Na tome mjestu ljekarnica je ostala do danas, dakako, prilagoena suvremenim zahtjevima farmaceutske znanosti.

O vjeπtini, znanju i sposobnostima ljekarnika male braÊe kroz stoljeÊa, moæe se proËitati u Nekrologiju provincije, gdje, na æalost, nedostaju imena iz prvih dvaju stoljeÊa od osnutka ljekarnice, jer u poæaru je nestao bogati arhiv i knjižnica samostana. Iz te knjige umrle braÊe, kao i iz drugih izvora, vidi se da su uglavnom svi spomenuti ljekarnici-franjevci bili naπi, domaÊi ljudi (iz Dubrovnika, Konavala, Peljeπca, Stona, Komolca, Rijeke DubrovaËke), osim nekolicine koji su, zbog nedostatka domaÊih, doπli iz Italije. Pokraj imena nalaze se pohvale i priznanja pojedincima, πto najbolje govori o ljekarnicima kao dostojnim predstavnicima

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Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Dubrovnik Sun Gardens

MEET IN DUBROVNIK

Open all year round

Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Dubrovnik Sun Gardens Na Moru 1, 20234 Orašac Dubrovnik, Croatia Tel: +385 20 361 500, Fax: +385 20 361 501 info.dubrovnik@radissonblu.com www.radissonblu.com/resort-dubrovnik CROATIA AIRLINES

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farmacije u naπim krajevima. Zbog glasovitosti i ljekarniËkih kvaliteta primali su mnoge studente iz susjednih dræava na naukovanje farmacije u samostanu.

Ljekarnici male braÊe ulazili su u tajne farmacije svog vremena dugogodiπnjim radom kod svog meπtra, starog spiËara, koji je na njih prenosio svoje iskustvo, ali i ono iz farmaceutskih knjiga i rukopisa. Mnogi su od njih kao sveÊenici poznavali latinski i talijanski jezik πto im je sluæilo u dopuni i πirenju znanja u struci.

Bili su praktiËari i nisu im trebale posebne πkolske kvalifikacije za obavljanje sluæbe sve do 19. stoljeÊa.

Prvi akademski πkolovani ljekarnik i, svakako, najistaknutiji u nizu ljekarnika male braÊe bio je franjevac Ivan Evangelist KuzmiÊ, Ëlan mnogih europskih struËnih druπtava, koji je pronio glas i slavu svoje ljekarnice daleko izvan granica svoje domovine. Mnoge su πkoljke πirom znanstvenog svijeta u sferi malakologije prozvane njegovim imenom, a bio je osnivaË nekoliko naπih malakoloπkih zbirki (Zadar, Zagreb, Dubrovnik). Ime Ivana KuzmiÊa stoji uz bok mnogih diËnih imena ljekarnika 19. stoljeÊa, a to potvruje Ëinjenicu da je ljekarnica male braÊe u Dubrovniku uvijek duboko osjeÊala ritam povijesnog razvoja u farmaciji.

Tijekom gotovo 700 godina postojanja na istome mjestu i u vlasniπtvu iste zajednice, ljekarnica Male braÊe u Dubrovniku skupila je i saËuvala veliku i jedinstvenu zbirku farmaceutske literature, a znanstvena literatura odraz je stanja znanosti vremena kad su knjige pisane.

Najstarija je knjiga te zbirke inkunabula Herbolarium autora Arnolda de Nova Villa iz 1491. godine. Tu su takoer odabrani predstavnici antiËke i arapske medicine, srednjovjekovne skolastike, a nadasve su zanimljiva razliËita izdanja farmaceutske renesanse, kao i iz doba prosvjetiteljstva. Iz novijih vremena tu je kolekcija prirodoznanstvenih djela 19. stoljeÊa, te zbirka farmakopeja − riËetarija, πto sve govori o internacionalnom obiljeæju naπe ljekarnice, jer tu je zastupljena gotovo Ëitava Europa s 78

naglaskom na Italiju (Bologna, Napulj). Talijani su predvodili razvojem u farmaciji, a njihovi lijeËnici najËeπÊe su dolazili u Dubrovnik. Svi su ti strani priruËnici sluæili ljekarnicima male braÊe, πto se vidi po razliËitim biljeπkama, napomenama ili nadopunama na njihovim stranicama. Tu osobitu paænju zasluæuju hrvatski nazivi biljaka, koje su unosili u te knjige uz latinska i talijanska imena biljaka i razliËitih droga. Osobito je dragocjena zbirka rukopisa ljekarnika od 17 svezaka, koja svjedoËi o njihovoj osobitoj ljubavi prema tome uzviπenom pozivu, a to je lijeËenje i ublaæavanje boli svoga bliænjega. Pisani su latinskim ili talijanskim jezikom raznovrsne kaligrafije i trostruka su sadræaja: zbirke recepata (njih oko 2000), imenici biljaka i knjige administracije. Zanimljivi su rukopisi administrativnog obiljeæja, koji sadræavaju imena duænika, a voeni su viπe radi evidencije nego nade u vraÊanje novca, jer u tim se popisima istiËe humanitarna uloga ljekarnice. Preko tih rukopisa upoznajemo se s vrstom lijekova, potroπnjom i izvorom, a to su bile biljke iz dva samostanska vrta, gdje rastu gorki bademi, limuni i naranËe, raznovrsno aromatiËno bilje, sve ljekovite trave boæanskih mirisa (poznata hrvatska poslovica govori: Svaka bolest svoje bilje ima), a droge su nalazili i u naπim krajevima i nabavljali iz Venecije i drugih europskih gradova.

Valja spomenuti dokument koji nije rukopis, pisan je na pisaÊem stroju, ali znaËajan je za povijest ljekarnice; to je Primopredajni inventar ljekarnice male braÊe s popisom svega πto se u ljekarnici zateklo potkraj prosinca 1947. godine, otkad se ta ljekarnica male braÊe viπe ne nalazi na popisu postojeÊih ljekarnica. Ona nastavlja s radom pod istim svodovima istog trijema, ali s nje je izbrisano staro ime i smei kestenjasti habit njezinih vjekovnih ljekarnika zamijenio je bijeli ogrtaË kao u svakoj drugoj apoteci.

Danas Stara ljekarnica male braÊe nastavlja svoj æivot i kao muzej svjedoËi o starini i dosezima naπe farmacije. Reprezentativni izgled interijera ljekarnice u gornjem klaustru, u blizini bolnice i voπtarnice, nosio je dah proπlosti osobita ozraËja sa svim svojim inventarom i, kako svjedoËe suvremenici, ostavljao osobit dojam na posjetitelja. Slika te stare spiËarije bila je duboko u srcima svih redovnika samostana male braÊe s kojom su æivjeli i u kojoj su radili uz prisutnost duha Eskulapa i Hipokrata i s pomoÊu svojih sprava i alata pomagali bolesne i utjeπili neutjeπne. Svojim posudama, vagama, muæarima i prekrasnim vazama razliËitih veliËina, oblika, podrijetla i starosti, zvanima stojnicama, koje su imale svaka svoje mjesto na fino urezanim i pozlaÊenim policama i sadræavale mitsku moÊ i nadu izljeËenja uz Boæju pomoÊ

i blagoslov, oni su posvetili cijeli svoj æivot.

Ideja o ljekarnici-muzeju ostvarena je 1938. godine i, nakon nekoliko izloæbenih mjesta u samostanu, napokon je 1955. godine, ponovno radi lakπe pristupaËnosti, ali ovaj put znatiæeljnih turista, prezentirana u dijelu monumentalnoga renesansnog kapitula samostana kao zasebna kompletna cjelina sa svim saËuvanim namjeπtajem, vagama, utezima, lukjernarima, posudama, muæarima i spravama, posudicama s otrovom, vrËevima i Ëak 51 saËuvanom vazom, donoseÊi nam mirise srednjovjekovnih aromatarija, ali i vrijeme seicenta i settecenta sa svojih pozlatom ukraπenih polica. Nad tim pravim dragocjenostima naπe slavne ljekarniËke proπlosti bdije portret najpoznatijega meu njezinim ljekarnicima, franjevca Ivana E. KuzmiÊa, koji je naslikao Ëeπki majstor J. »ermak u 19. stoljeÊu, pa on umjesto svetih Kuzme i Damjana πtiti i Ëuva sve to samostansko blago kao svjedoke tolikih ljudskih sudbina, ali i kao jedinstveni spomenik farmacije i naπe farmaceutske proπlosti. n he history of European pharmaceutics dates back to antiquity, from Ancient Egypt and Ancient Greece and Rome, to the time of the presence of Arabs in Europe. In the beginning there was no independent pharmacist profession; rather, it was closely tied to the medical profession. The role of these miracle workers who restored faith and hope and brought the body and soul back to life was taken on by priests, who helped the sick through religious rituals. With time, a need emerged for a science that would deal exclusively with preparing medicinal substances to combat various diseases and epidemics, and therefore pharmaceutics became more and more separate from the physicians’ profession.

The year 1240 is considered the birth year of European pharmaceutics, when King Frederick II issued his famous Medical Edict in Naples, separating pharmaceutics from medicine, i.e. pharmaceutics from the physicians’ profession. After that, many pharmacies were established throughout Europe as individual healthcare institutions.

The first pharmacies were established on Croatian territory, influenced by the nearby Italian shores, and pharmaceutics in Croatian cities was in no way behind the skills of pharmacists in the most developed European centres. The first civilian pharmacy in Croatia was opened in Trogir back in 1271. A pharmacy was then called a pantry, and later a shop, as it sold different items along with medicines; hence the name speciarius for a pharmacist. Real pharmacies which sold only drugs appeared during the Renaissance, although they also

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sold candied fruit, alcoholic beverages and so on in addition to drugs.

Conceived in the shadow and mystery of Egyptian temples, flourishing in the warmth of ancient atria, more than other sciences, pharmaceutics has traditionally found a refuge and has preserved its life energy in the peace and quiet of lonely monasteries throughout the long centuries of the Middle Ages. Like fortresses, monasteries were surrounded by high walls where monks developed healthcare services, treated the sick with medicinal herbs from their gardens, as well as with other medicines they became familiar with by reading ancient literature. These were the Benedictines, Cistercians, Carthusians, Franciscans, Dominicans and Pauline monks.

Thus, with the construction of the Friars Minor Monastery in Dubrovnik in 1317, the famous Franciscan pharmacy was also established, which has been in continuous operation until today. That year, the Great Council of the Dubrovnik Republic adopted a Resolution to tear down the Franciscan Monastery of St. Thomas at Pile and build a new one within the city walls, the one that is presently there. Therefore, the year when the monastery was founded is also considered the year when the pharmacy was founded, as the third oldest pharmacy after the ones in Baghdad and Padua. While building their monastery the Franciscans also had the pharmacy in mind, as a rule of their order which demands that special care must be given to sick brethren. The Dominicans in Dubrovnik also had their own pharmacy until the arrival of the French, as evidenced by the portrait of their last pharmacist, Fra Vito de Sanctis, which today is on display in the monastery’s art collection.

Historical information on the Friars Minor Pharmacy, from its establishment until the disastrous earthquake of 1667, is scarce, as the monastery’s rich archive was lost in a fire, together with all the data on the monastery and the pharmacy. The only source of written 80

documentation in the monastery’s archive comes from the monk who survived the earthquake, namely the monastery chronicles by Father Vitalis AndrijaπeviÊ, written from 1643 to 1713. At the beginning he included some notes from earlier periods, and thus we know that until 1681 the monastery’s ground floor housed the pharmacy, or aromatarium, also called spiËarija in Dubrovnik.

Contrary to many opinions, this pharmacy was originally designed and founded as a public pharmacy, as well as for the needs of sick monks (Regula Fratrum Minorum, Caput 6), since its establishment also solved the issue of the material basis for the monks’ existence.

Pharmacy work was of a humanitarian nature and in the spirit of St. Francis, who also pursued this trade when he first converted. It was also in harmony with the monastic tradition when the pharmacies were the only repositories at monasteries and the monks were the only pharmacists. The reason stated for the founding and existence of the Friars Minor Pharmacy is evidenced in the province’s economic administration books, which recorded the annual income from the pharmacy. This is also corroborated by the pharmacy’s original location on the monastery’s ground floor. This was a smaller room beneath the old clock, located between the vestry and the chapter hall, with two doors, one of which opened to Prijeko and the other to the cloister. This was in the part of the monastery built before the upper part, which housed the monastery hospital. Father AndrijaπeviÊ recorded the monks’ displeasure in 1681 when a visitor from Aquila ordered that the pharmacy be moved to the upper part of the monastery, under the vaults of the upper cloister, in the immediate vicinity of the monastery hospital.

Although less accessible, these facilities were much more suitable for the monks’ work.

The pharmacy continued to operate on this location until the fall of the mighty Dubrovnik Republic. After Napoleon’s short rule over Dubrovnik, control was assumed by Austria, which demanded that pharmaceutical legislation be in accordance with Austrian legislation, and therefore required the pharmacy manager to take an exam at an imperial university and obtain a diploma, which threatened the pharmacy’s centuries-long existence. This was the first time that state authorities laid down conditions for pharmacists’ work, as St. Blaise’s glorious Republic was satisfied with the knowledge and experience that the old spiËari, pharmacists, had passed on to their young heirs for centuries, without diplomas.

The Republic had a keen interest in the Friars Minor Pharmacy, and the citizens and nobility

supported both the pharmacy and the hospitals with generous contributions, as evidenced in the book Testamenta Notariae. The monastery administration was faced with problems as well, since for a number of reasons they were unable to immediately send one of the monks to study or to hire a pharmacist from the outside. However, the pharmacy’s continuity had to be preserved, and the monks therefore invested great effort and diplomatic skill to retain their long-standing pharmacist at the post of pharmacy manager until a legally qualified person could be found. The Austrian authorities even raised the issue of the legal existence of the old pharmacy, which was settled

by Emperor Francis I himself, to the benefit of the monastery, granting it a special privilege in 1828, under which the Friars Minor Monastery remained the owner of its pharmacy, provided that healthcare regulations were observed in every way. However, the issue of a pharmacist with an academic degree had to be resolved as soon as possible, which was then done. The first graduate pharmacist was Ivan KuzmiÊ, a student of the famous University of Padua.

Furthermore, according to Austrian regulations, the pharmacy had to be easily reachable and accessible to its customers, and the old pharmacy located in the inner upper part of the monastery and because of the cloister was not. An option was considered to move the pharmacy to the nearby Renaissance St. Saviour Church, which had been converted by the authorities into the foreign army’s storage facility, which was an outrageous desecration of this votive shrine to the citizens of Dubrovnik.

After long negotiations, an agreement was signed in 1832, but the church was never given over for the premises of the pharmacy, so the pharmacy remained at its old location in the upper cloister.

However, whatever the Austrians did not do by way of their instructions to the detriment of the pharmacy was instead done by the pharmaceutical industry, which changed not only the work of the old spiËari but also the appearance of the old spiËarija. The old-style pharmacy became unsuitable for the needs of modern times, and the pharmacy had to leave the centuries-old quiet and tranquillity of the ancient cloister in 1901 and return under the vaults of the lower porch, not to its original location but opposite it, next to the entrance to the porch. The refurbishing of the new pharmacy was generously funded by Inje Amerling, the monastery’s benefactor on many occasions. The pharmacy has remained here until today. Of course, it has been adapted to the modern demands of pharmaceutical science.

You can read about the skills, knowledge and

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competence of the Friars Minor pharmacists throughout the centuries in the necrology of the province, which unfortunately does not list the names from the first two centuries after the establishment of the pharmacy, as the monastery’s rich archive and library were destroyed in a fire. This book, which lists the deceased monks, as well as other sources, shows that most of the Franciscan pharmacists were Croatian locals (from Dubrovnik, Konavle, Peljeπac, Ston, Komolac, Rijeka DubrovaËka), except a few who came from Italy due to a shortage of local staff. In addition to the names, there are tributes and recognitions given to individuals, which is the best testimony to the pharmacists as worthy representatives of their profession in our land. Their fame and professional qualities attracted many students from neighbouring countries who came to study pharmaceutics at the monastery.

Friars Minor pharmacists became familiar with the secrets of the trade of their times through years of working with their master, old spiËar, who passed on his own experience, as well as the information found in pharmaceutical books and manuscripts. Many of them, being priests, were fluent in Latin and Italian, which was useful in supplementing and expanding their professional knowledge. They were practitioners and needed no special academic qualifications to perform their service, until the 19th century.

The first graduate pharmacist, and certainly the most prominent among the Friars Minor pharmacists, was a Franciscan, Ivan Evangelista KuzmiÊ, a member of many European professional associations, who spread the fame and glory of his pharmacy far beyond the borders of his homeland. Many species of shellfish in the field of malacology were named after him, and he was the founder of several of our malacological collections (Zadar, Zagreb, Dubrovnik).

The name Ivan KuzmiÊ ranks among the many honourable names of pharmacists in the 19th century, which confirms the fact that the Friars 82

Minor Pharmacy in Dubrovnik always deeply felt the rhythm of historical development in the pharmaceutical industry.

Throughout almost 700 years of its existence at the same location and in the ownership of the same community, the Friars Minor Pharmacy in Dubrovnik has collected and preserved a large and unique body of literature; and scientific literature is a reflection of the state of science during the era when the books were published. The oldest book in the collection is the incunabulum Herbolarium by Arnaldus de Nova Villa in 1491. There are also select representatives of ancient and Arabic medicine, Medieval Scholasticism, and particularly interesting are the different editions of the pharmaceutical Renaissance, as well as the Age of Enlightenment. From more recent times, there is a collection of natural science literature from the 19th century, as well as the pharmacopoeia − riËetarij collection, all of which points out the international character of our pharmacy, as almost all of Europe is represented here, with emphasis on Italy (Bologna, Naples). Italians were the leaders of pharmaceutical advancement, and their doctors were among the most frequent visitors to Dubrovnik. All these international manuals were frequently used by the Friars Minor pharmacists, as notes, comments and clarifications on their pages show. Special attention must be given to the Croatian names of plants, which were entered into the books next to the Latin and Italian names of plants and different drugs. Particularly precious is the collection of pharmacists’ manuscripts consisting of 17 volumes, which testifies to their special love for this noble profession, which is healing and alleviating the pain of their fellow people. These manuscripts are written in Latin or Italian, with diverse calligraphy and with triple contents; a collection of recipes (about 2000), plant indices and administrative books.

Administrative manuscripts containing the names of debtors are an interesting read, and they were kept more for the sake of keeping records than for the ultimate purpose of getting back the money, as these lists emphasize the pharmacy’s humanitarian role. Through these manuscripts, we are acquainted with the type of drugs, their consumption and their provenance. The sources were two monastery herb gardens, where they grew bitter almonds, lemons and oranges, diverse aromatic plants, and every type of divinely smelling medicinal herb (as the famous Croatian proverb says, Every disease has its herb), and drugs were found in the local regions and imported from Venice and other European cities.

It is worth mentioning a document that was not handwritten, but was rather typed on a

typewriter, yet is significant for the history of the pharmacy; this is the Delivery and Receipt Inventory of the Friars Minor Pharmacy with the list of every item found in the pharmacy at the end of December 1947, when the Friars Minor Pharmacy was no longer on the list of existing pharmacies. It continues to operate under the same vaults of the same porch, but the old name has been erased and the brown, Maron habits worn by its long-standing pharmacists have been replaced by white coats like in any other pharmacy.

Today, the Old Friars Minor Pharmacy continues its life also as a museum, testifying to the tradition and achievements of our pharmacy.

The representative look of the pharmacy’s interior in the upper cloister, near the hospital and the wax workshop, had the air of the past with a special atmosphere, together with its entire inventory, and as contemporaries testify, left an exceptional impression on visitors.

The image of this old spiËarija was cherished deep in the hearts of all the monks in the Friars Minor monastery with whom they lived and in which they worked in the presence of the spirits of Asclepius and Hippocrates, and using their instruments and tools they helped the sick and comforted the inconsolable. They devoted their entire lives to their containers, scales, mortars and pestles, and beautiful vases of different sizes, shapes and origin, called stojnice, every one of which had its own place on the delicately crafted and gilded shelves, and they contained a mythical power and hope of healing, with God’s help and blessing.

The idea of a pharmacy museum was realized in 1938, and after a few exhibition stands at the monastery, in 1955 it was finally presented in a part of the monumental Renaissance chapter of the monastery, again for easier accessibility to the benefit of curious tourists. It was set up as a separate and self-contained unit with all the preserved furniture, scales, weights, candlesticks, dishes, mortars and pestles, instruments, venom bottles, pitchers and as many as 51 preserved vases, bringing to us the scents of a medieval aromatarium, but also the eras of Seicento and Settecento on the gold-ornamented shelves. The portrait of the most famous among its pharmacists, Franciscan Ivan E. KuzmiÊ, painted by the Czech master J. »ermak in the 19th century, watches over these truly precious relics of our glorious pharmaceutical past, and instead of Sts. Cosmas and Damian, he protects and keeps the monastery treasures as the witness of so many human destinies, but also as a unique monument to the pharmacy and our pharmaceutical past. n

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DUBROVNIK

- grad za sva godiπnja doba - a city for all seasons D

ubrovnik je grad za sva godiπnja doba.

Svako dubrovaËko godiπnje doba ima svoj osobit πarm, i topli ljetni dani kad turisti hrle u Grad, ali i blagi, mirni zimski mjeseci.

Svaki dan, bez obzira na vremenske uvjete, pruæa brojne moguÊnosti za istraæivanje i uæivanje u Dubrovniku zimi. Nadahnite se zadivljujuÊom arhitekturom toga povijesnoga

grada, izgubite u zanimljivim sporednim ulicama, provedite dio svog vremena u jednoj od brojnih umjetniËkih galerija i muzejima, opustite se u kafiÊu ili ugodite sebi u jednome od restorana. Prepustite se osobnom ritmu kako biste zaista uspjeli upoznati Dubrovnik.

Tijekom jeseni i zime Dubrovnik ima izravne zrakoplovne veze s europskim gradovima: Rimom, Frankfurtom, Münchenom, Parizom i Londonom.

Iskoristite poseban zimski vikend−program koji je kreiran kako bi pokazao najbolje od onoga πto Grad nudi. Kuπajte fina domaÊa vina u vinogradu, uæivajte u koncertu DubrovaËkog simfonijskog orkestra, upoznajte bogatu povijest uz pratnju vodiËa, sami uberite kamenicu i kuπajte je, predajte se æivoj noÊnoj zabavi, kušajte tradicionalnu dubrovaËku kuhinju... Zaboravite stres i napetost vaπega uobiËajenoga dnevnog ritma i prepustite se ljepoti i æivotnim uæicima - moru, suncu i svjeæem zraku u nezaboravnom Dubrovniku.

Dubrovnik zaista jest grad za sva godiπnja doba!

■

D

ubrovnik is a city for all seasons. Each season has its distinctive charm, from the warm summer days when tourists flock to the city to the mild and calm winter months when a peace falls over Dubrovnik. On any given day, no matter what the weather is like, there are numerous opportunities to explore and enjoy Dubrovnik through the winter. Be inspired by the breathtaking architecture of the historic city, lose yourself in the quaint side streets, spend some time in one of the many art galleries and museums, relax in a café or indulge yourself in a restaurant. Take life at your own pace with the time and space to really get to know Dubrovnik.

During the autumn and winter periods Dubrovnik has direct air connections with the European cities Rome, Frankfurt, München, Paris and London.

Take advantage of a winter special weekend program organised to showcase the best the city has to offer. Taste fine local wines in a vineyard, enjoy a concert by the Dubrovnik symphony orchestra, learn the rich history with a guided tour, try your hand at harvesting oysters, let your hair down with the lively nightlife and experience traditional Dubrovnik cuisine. Forget the stresses and strains of your modern day routine and enjoy the simple things in life: the sea, sun and fresh air in unforgettable Dubrovnik.

Dubrovnik: truly a city for all seasons. ■ visit.dubrovnik.hr

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U Velikom tjednu koji prethodi Uskrsu poËinju se bojiti jaja starinskim naËinom penganja posebice raπirenome u DubrovaËkom primorju i Konavlima.

During Holy Week eggs are painted in the old-fashioned way typical of the Dubrovnik coastline and Konavle.

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a Cvjetnicu u dubrovaËkom kraju u crkvu na blagoslov vjernici nose maslinove granËice i lijepo ispletene palmine granËice−pome. Pome su tipiËne za jug Hrvatske, no na sreÊu tradicija pletenja tih ukrasa saËuvala se ne samo za sadaπnjost, nego i za buduÊnost, jer prenosi se na mlae naraπtaje. Nakon mise i blagoslova na Cvjetnicu, granËice se postavljaju u kuÊu ispred raspela ili se zataknu za sliku. U proπlosti granËice su se nosile i u pËelinjak, polje ili u staju. Prema vjerovanju, blagoslovljene granËice osiguravale su dobar poljoprivredni urod, zaπtitu od nevremena, a obitelji zdravlje, sreÊu, blagostanje.

U Velikom tjednu koji prethodi Uskrsu poËinju se bojiti jaja starinskim naËinom penganja posebice raπirenome u DubrovaËkom primorju i Konavlima. Pengana jaja se odlikuju skladnoπÊu i ljepotom izrade ornamenata, pisanih poruka i Ëestitki, koje su i specifiËnost ovoga kraja. Iako se starinska tehnika penganja jaja u prvi mah Ëini veoma kompliciranom, iskusne Primorke i Konavoke tvrde drukËije. ©to se viπe jaja penga, ona postaju sve ljepπa, kaæu. Sirova se jaja iscrtavaju

(pengaju) otopljenim pËelinjim voskom, u koji se umaËe glaviËasta igla priËvrπÊena na komadiÊ drva. NajËeπÊe je to lovorika, a za ispisivanje poruka koristi se penicom.

Iskazivanje ljubavi i naklonosti glavne su namjene penganih jaja, dara kojima su se nerijetko otkrivale simpatije, skriveni osjeÊaji.

Stoga se dobro pazilo kome Êe se jaje darovati. Osobito se cijeni crveno pegano jaje, jer se tako istiËe simbolika æivota i prirode.

Budite na Stradunu u Dubrovniku na uskrsno jutro, dopustite da vam mlada djevojka daruje pengano jaje... n

During Holy Week eggs are painted in the old-fashioned way typical of the Dubrovnik coastline and Konavle. The painted eggs are characterized by neat and beautiful decoration, written messages and congratulatory messages which are typical of the region.

Although the old egg-painting technique seems to be exceptionally complex at first, the experienced women of Primorje and

O

n Palm Sunday people of faith in the Dubrovnik region go to church where olive twigs and finely plaited palm leaves are taken for blessing. The plaited palm leaves are characteristic of south Croatia. The tradition of plaiting palm leaves has fortunately been preserved not only for the present day, but also for the future, because it is passed on to young generations. On Palm Sunday, after the mass and blessing, the twigs are taken to the houses and placed under the crucifix or on a picture frame. In the past the twigs were taken to the apiaries, fields and stables.

It is believed that the blessed twigs granted good crops, protection against bad weather, and health, happiness and prosperity.

Konavle deny it. They claim that the more experience you have in painting the eggs the more beautiful they look. The drawings on the raw eggs are made using melted beeswax into which one plunges a needle attached to a piece of wood, most often laurel or grapevine. The penica is used for writing the messages.

Painted eggs were mainly aimed at expressing love and affection, and such a gift often revealed a fancy for someone and hidden feelings. People thus took good care when choosing the person to whom they would present the egg. Particularly valued were eggs painted in red, which symbolized life and nature.

Come to Dubrovnik and be in the Stradun on Easter morning. Let a young girl present you with an egg. n CROATIA AIRLINES

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Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos Vanja Šolin

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MUZEJI MUSEUMS ■

Bila je hladna sijeËanjska noÊ. Toplomjer je pokazivao 10 stupnjeva ispod niπtice. Ali to nikomu nije smetalo i ulice su bile prepune ljudi. Svi naraπtaji i svi profili ljudi prisustvovali su festivalu u Hrvatskoj, u kojemu su traæili nadahnuÊe i pogled na onu drugu stranu æivota, u kojoj stoluju kultura i umjetnost, znanost, struka, kreativnost i promiπljanje… Bila je to NoÊ muzeja.

It was a cold night in January. The thermometer showed 10 degrees below zero. However, nobody seemed to mind and the streets were crowded. People of all generations and from all walks of life attended a festival in Croatia, searching for inspiration and a view of another side of life; one ruled by culture and art, science, professionalism, creativity and reflection... It was the Night of Museums.

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toj noÊi, 27. sijeËnja, 325.000 ljudi bilo je na ulicama. Odrasli su svojoj djeci i unucima priËali priËe o slikama, kipovima, arheoloπkim nalazima, o razliËitim izumima i upozoravali na znaËenje i smisao koji kultura i umjetnost imaju u naπim æivotima. Objaπnjavali su zaπto se divimo umjetnosti te zaπto kroz njezina djela uËimo biti bolji i kvalitetniji ljudi. A nisu morali biti vani, jer imali su i druge moguÊnosti. Ostati u toplim domovima i gledati na TV-u rukometni dvoboj izmeu Hrvatske i Srbije ili obavljati svoje uobiËajene rituale kraja radnog tjedna.

Ali, mnogi gladni kulture, odabrali su NoÊ muzeja.

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Takvi dogaaji pruæaju nam i moralnu satisfakciju uæivanja u pozitivnim iskustvima kulturnoga i civilizacijskog egzistiranja. Bajkovita i inspirativna noÊ obilovala je prizorima u kojima su cijele obitelji, prolazeÊi dugim muzejskim hodnicima, odavale poπtovanje radovima umjetnika. Otvorenih i izoπtrenih osjetila, mladi su, promatrajuÊi izloæena djela, raspravljali sa svojim mentorima, roditeljima, bakama i djedovima. NoÊ je bila prepuna ozbiljnih promiπljanja, ali i smijeha… U duπama najmlaih tad je nesvjesno klijalo sjeme novih umjetnika i znanstvenika, zaËarani krug koji kao perpetuum mobile kontinuirano izbacuje nove naraπtaje kreativnih poklonika baπtine

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i tradicije. A jednoga Êe dana i oni ne samo naslijediti tu baπtinu, nego biti njezina znaËajna nadogradnja. Ta mala iskra koja je prvi put u svojoj formi bila uspjeπno pokrenuta u ujedinjenom Berlinu 1997. godine pod nazivom Lange Nacht der Museen, zarazila je ostatak Europe, kao i neke druge kontinente i gradove. Recimo samo da je taj koncept prihvatio i Buenos Aires, a 2004. godine dogaajem La Noche de los Museos ta zamisao dobila je i interkontinentalno obiljeæje. Posljednjih godina u Europi viπe od 120 gradova svake godine uspjeπno organizira NoÊ muzeja sa sve veÊim udjelom institucija i gledateljstva, svojevrsni kulturni tsunami poprima veliku

moÊ u oplemenjivanju stanovniπtva i skretanju njihovih misli u uzviπenije razine duhovnosti. Kad vidite kolone ljudi kako strpljivo Ëekaju na svoju besplatnu ulaznicu za muzej, osjetite euforiju. Jer, oËito je, i danas vlada veliko zanimanje za kulturu, to je neosporno.

NoÊ muzeja u Hrvatskoj pokrenuta je 2005. godine kao gradski projekt sa πest zagrebaËkih muzeja, a 2006. postaje nacionalni kulturni dogaaj, koji je pokrenula Sekcija kulturnog turizma Hrvatskoga muzejskog druπtva, u suradnji sa Zajednicom kulturnog turizma HGK i svim zainteresiranim muzejima. Akcija je razumijevala novi i otvoreniji pristup muzejskoj i turistiËkoj publici te CROATIA AIRLINES

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ukljuËivala posjet izloæbenom dijelu muzeja, popratnu seriju dogaanja (umjetniËkih, modnih, knjiæevnih, glazbenih) u navedenim kulturnim institucijama.

Upravo nevjerojatno zvuËi podatak da od 2007. godine, otkad se i statistiËki vode podaci o NoÊi muzeja, broj posjetitelja raste. Od 70.000 registriranih posjetitelja 2007. godine, taj broj je 2012. dosegao rekordnih 325.000 posjetitelja, πto nam govori da Hrvatsko muzejsko druπtvo, u suradnji s muzejskim institucijama, radi veoma kvalitetan posao.

Svake godine ta manifestacija postaje sve uspjeπnija, πto dokazuju i podaci: u 80 gradova i mjesta muzeji, galerije i srodne ustanove 90

u kulturi od 18 do 1 sat poslije ponoÊi nudile su ove godine atraktivan program na 180 lokacija. U Splitu je na manifestaciji sudjelovalo 39.000 posjetitelja, u Rijeci 26.000, u Zadru 22.000, u Osijeku 13.000, u Varaædinu 8700, u Dubrovniku 8000, u Puli 7700, u Koprivnici 2700, u »akovcu i Slavonskom Brodu 2600, u Karlovcu 2200... U najbrojnijim i najveÊim zagrebaËkim muzejima bilo je 160.000 posjetitelja, a od tog broja najviπe njih bilo je u Muzeju suvremene umjetnosti (16.000). Prvi put u NoÊ muzeja ukljuËili su se Buzet, Jasenovac, Kumrovec, MetkoviÊ, Senj, Varaædin, Vis, Sutivan i Hvar. Mnogo publike NoÊi muzeja privukle su atraktivne

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izloæbe, ali i ostala dogaanja: pedagoπke radionice, predavanja, okrugli stolovi, strukovna vodstva, performansi, recitali i koncerti, filmske i videoprojekcije, modne revije, prigodne prodaje kataloga, promidæbenog materijala i suvenira, predstavljanja i prezentacije tehnoloπkih i prirodoslovnih pokusa te druæenja s umjetnicima i muzejskim donatorima. NoÊ kad su bila ponuena probrana djela umjetnosti od arheoloπkih iskopina iz doba neandertalaca, egipatskih faraona, preko renesanse i baroka, secesije, impresionizma, ekspresionizma, moderne i suvremene umjetnosti, radionice Nikole Tesle... za svakoga poneπto, izbor kojega se ne bi posramile

ni najveÊe svjetske metropole. Autorice koncepcije NoÊi muzeja, Dubravka OsreËki JakeliÊ, predsjednica Hrvatskog muzejskog druπtva, i Vesna JuriÊ-BulatoviÊ, glavna voditeljica marketinga, zahvalile su publici na odazivu, a za uspjeπnu realizaciju projekta pohvale su zasluæili i svi muzejski djelatnici, sudionici u realizaciji NoÊi muzeja. Edukativno i marketinπki, NoÊ muzeja potpuno je uspio projekt, zamiπljen da ljude informira, obrazuje i iznenadi svojim sadræajima u toj ludoj noÊi igre, plesa, zabave, performansa kao i ozbiljnih promiπljanja i razgovora o umjetnosti, arheologiji, arhitekturi, prirodoslovnim i tehniËkim znanostima...

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Muzeji su u toj noÊi postali ognjiπta duha na kojima su roditelji djeci ponosno pronosili priËu o sjaju hrvatske i svjetske kulturne baπtine te o njezinoj bitnoj ulozi u razvoju identiteta druπtva. Topla pobjeda civiliziranoga, kulturnog mnoπtva u ledenoj, zimskoj NoÊi muzeja. n

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n this night, on 27 January, 325,000 people were in the streets. Adults told their children and grandchildren stories about paintings, sculptures, archaeological finds and about different inventions, pointing out the significance and meaning that culture and art have in our lives.

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They explained why we admire art and why we learn to be better and to grow as people through its creations. They did not have to be outdoors, as they had other options, like staying in their warm homes and watching the handball match between Croatia and Serbia on TV or doing their usual end of the work week rituals. However, many of them, thirsting for culture, chose the Night of Museums.

Such events also give us moral satisfaction by enjoying the positive experiences of the existence of culture and civilization.

This fairytale and inspiring night was filled with scenes of entire families wandering

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through long museum halls and paying their respects to artists’ works. With keen and sharp senses, young people, gazing at the exhibits, discussed them with their mentors, parents and grandparents. The night was filled with serious reflections, but also with laughter… In the souls of the youngest ones, the seed of new artists and scientists began to sprout instinctively, creating an unending circle which, like perpetuum mobile, continuously brings forth new generations of creative admirers of heritage and tradition. They will not only inherit this legacy one day, but raise it to the next level. This small spark, which was first initiated in this

form in the unified Berlin in 1997 under the title Lange Nacht der Museen, has spread to the rest of Europe, as well as some other continents and cities. Let’s just say that the concept was embraced by Buenos Aires, and in 2004, with the event La Noche de los Museos, this idea gained an intercontinental character. In recent years, more than 120 cities in Europe have successfully organized the Night of Museums every year, with increasing participation by institutions and audiences.

This is becoming a sort of cultural tsunami, gaining great power in ennobling the population and turning their thoughts to higher levels of spirituality. You feel euphoric when you see CROATIA AIRLINES

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lines of people patiently waiting for their free tickets to a museum, because it is obvious and beyond doubt that culture, even today, draws great interest.

The Night of Museums in Croatia was started in 2005 as a city project with six of Zagreb’s museums, and in 2006 became a national cultural event, initiated by the Cultural Tourism Section of the Croatian Museum Association, in cooperation with the Cultural Tourism Board of the Croatian Chamber of Commerce and all interested museums.

The campaign implied a new and more open approach to museum and tourist audiences, and included a visit to the exposition wings 94

of museums and a series of accompanying events (related to art, fashion, literature and music) at the said cultural institutions.

It is amazing that the number of visitors has kept growing since 2007, when statistical data on the Night of Museums were fi rst recorded. From 70,000 recorded visitors in 2007, this number has grown to a recordbreaking 325,000 in 2012, which indicates that the Croatian Museum Association, in cooperation with museum institutions, is doing a great job. This event is more and more successful every year, as evidenced by the following facts: in 80 cities and villages, museums, galleries and similar cultural

institutions offered an attractive program at 180 locations, from 6 p.m. to 1 a.m. In Split, 39,000 visitors participated in the event, in Rijeka 26,000, in Zadar 22,000, in Osijek 13,000, in Varaædin 8700, in Dubrovnik 8000, in Pula 7700, in Koprivnica 2700, in »akovec 2600, in Slavonski Brod and Karlovac 2200... The most numerous and largest museums in Zagreb received 160,000 visitors, and the majority of them were at the Museum of Contemporary Art (16,000). For the fi rst time, the towns of Buzet, Jasenovac, Kumrovec, MetkoviÊ, Senj, Varaædin, Vis, Sutivan and Hvar joined the Night of Museums. The large Night of

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Museums audience was attracted by fascinating exhibitions, but also by other events: children’s workshops, lectures, roundtable discussions, professionally guided tours, performances, recitals and concerts, fi lm and video screenings, fashion shows, sales of catalogues, promotional materials and souvenirs, promotions and presentations of technological and natural science experiments, and a chance to meet artists and museum donors. It was a night which offered select works of art, ranging from archaeological fi nds from the age of the Neanderthals and Egyptian pharaohs, to Renaissance and Baroque, Art Nouveau,

Impressionism, Expressionism, modern and contemporar y ar t, to Nikola Tesla workshops... something for every taste, a choice which would make even the largest world metropolises proud. The authors of the Night of Museums concept, Dubravka OsreËki JakeliÊ, president of the Croatian Museum Association, and Vesna JuriÊ-BulatoviÊ, chief manager of marketing, thanked the audience for their attendance. Credit for the successful realization of the project must also go to all the employees of the museums that participated in the Night of Museums.

In terms of education and marketing, the Night of Museums is a completely success-

ful project, designed to inform and educate people, as well as surprise them with its rich offer on this crazy night of playing, dancing, entertainment and performances, as well as serious reflections and conversations about art, archaeology, architecture, natural and technical sciences...

That night museums became the homes of spirits, where parents proudly told their children the story of the glory of the Croatian and the world’s cultural heritage and its essential role in the development of the society’s identity. It was a warm victory for the civilized, cultured crowd on the ice-cold, winter Night of Museums. n CROATIA AIRLINES

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EUROPA EUROPE ■

Piše/By Alan »aplar Fotografije/Photos Alan »aplar, TZ Maribora, Narodni dom Maribor

Tijekom ove godine Maribor nosi prestiæni naslov Europske prijestolnice kulture, a sljedeÊe bit Êe i domaÊin Zimske univerzijade i svjetski grad mladih. Grad pod zelenim Pohorjem na objema obalama Drave ponosi se bogatim zabavnim i kulturnim æivotom, vinskom tradicijom i burnom povijeπÊu. Uz to, Maribor je i grad najstarije vinske loze na svijetu, koja tu raste veÊ viπe od 400 godina.

During 2012, Maribor carries the prestigious title of the European Capital of Culture, and next year Maribor will host the Winter Universiade and will be the World’s Youth Capital. The city under the green slopes of Pohorje, stretched on both banks of the Drava River, is proud of its turbulent past, rich viticulture and vibrant entertainment and cultural life. In addition, Maribor boasts the oldest grapevine in the world, which has been growing here for more than 400 years.

odruËje Maribora od davnina je imalo vaænu prometnu ulogu. To je mjesto toËno na polovici dravskog toka, upravo ondje gdje se bistra rijeka izvlaËi iz visokih planinskih dolina i postaje mirna nizinska rijeka. Kod Maribora se dolina Drave proπiruje, a na putu u Panonsku ravnicu rijeka viπe nigdje ne prolazi kroz okruæje visokih planina. Na Dravi u Mariboru joπ se naziru temelji uskog mosta kojim se u doba Habsburπke Monarhije odvijao æiv promet Maribor je bio glavna poveznica Hrvatske s BeËom. Maribor je ostao prometno vaæan i danas - pogotovo za Hrvatsku, jer Maribor je kljuËna toËka na jednom od glavnih smjerova prema zapadnoj Europi. Donedavno sav je cestovni promet prema Grazu i BeËu tekao kroz grad, no prije nekoliko godina mariborski gradski promet rastereÊen je gradnjom suvremene obilaznice, zbog koje je put od Zagreba prema Austriji joπ kraÊi.

Na svome 720 kilometara dugom putu Drava

P

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Maribor je pravi primjer kako razmjerno malen grad moæe biti velik po raznolikoj turistiËkoj ponudi i po kulturnim dosezima. Kultura æivi na gradskim ulicama i u domovima njegovih graana.

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nema mnogo velikih pritoka - glavni je pritok rijeka Mura, koja osnaæuje dravske vode kod Legrada. Tri najveÊa grada na Dravi slovenski su Maribor te naπi Varaædin i Osijek - svi odreda vrlo slikoviti gradovi s bogatom kulturom i zanimljivom povijeπÊu. Drava, oËito, ima blagotvorni utjecaj na kulturu i ljude.

Gradsko je srediπte Maribora na sjevernoj strani Drave, nasuprot Pohorju, pod kojim se nalazi noviji dio grada. Stari dio Maribora po graditeljskoj baπtini i strukturi sliËan je mnogim drugim srednjoeuropskim gradovima sliËne veliËine, no ima i neπto svoje, zbog Ëega je grad drukËiji od drugih. Ovdje svaka ulica i svaki gradski ugao nudi drugaËiju sliku - iz mirne i tihe uliËice starih kuÊeraka zaËas Êete stiÊi u πiroku ulicu skladnih secesijskih graevina, na drugom uglu stiÊi do trga punog zelenila koje okruæuje velebne zgrade suvremenih linija, koje su srediπte sveuËiliπnoga, crkvenoga i poslovnog æivota, a zatim Êete se tihom neuglednom uliËicom spustiti prema πirokoj πetnici uz obalu Drave. Mnoge secesijske graevine izmjenjuju se s novijima nastalima nakon Drugoga svjetskog rata te u najnovije doba. Maribor je, naime, teπko stradao u Drugom svjetskom ratu - gotovo pola grada potpuno je uniπteno, a obnovom u poratnom razdoblju stvorena je πarmantna kombinacija starih i novih graditeljskih stilova.

Meu starim graevinama osobito se istiËu crkva Janeza Krstnika (Ivana Krstitelja), graena u romaniËkom stilu, te Mariborski stari grad - zdanje masivnih zidova s lijepim nadsvoenim prolazima i gradskim tornjem.

Na glavnom trgu istiËu se spomenik stradalima od kuge te zgrada stare gradske vijeÊnice koja izgledom i uspravnim tornjem sa satnim mehanizmom neodoljivo podsjeÊa na staru vijeÊnicu u naπem Varaædinu. Iz vremena kad je cijela gradska jezgra bila opasana zidinama ostalo je saËuvano nekoliko tornjeva, meu kojima najviπe pozornosti privlaËe Vodni stolp i Æidovska kula. Unutar Vodnog stolpa danas je vinoteka s dugogodiπnjom tradicijom.

Uza Æidovsku kulu nalazi se obnovljena sinagoga koja podsjeÊa na to da je u srednjem vijeku Maribor bio glavno srediπte æidovske zajednice na πirem podruËju. Æidovski geto u Mariboru prvi se put spominje 1277. godine.

Geto je bio smjeπten u jugoistoËnom dijelu grada i na vrhuncu, u poËetku 15. stoljeÊa, imao mnogo ulica i trgova. Slavu mariborske æidovske zajednice u tom vremenu najviπe je pronio rabin Israel Isserlein, koji se smatra najznaËajnijim talmudskim uËenjakom dræava Svetoga Rimskoga Carstva u prvoj polovici 15. stoljeÊa. Nakon 1450. godine situacija za æidovsku zajednicu dramatiËno se promijenila zbog poveÊane konkurencije drugih trgovaca

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Maribor is a true example of how even a relatively small city can be big in terms of its varied tourist offers and cultural achievements. Maribor cultures lives on the city streets and in the homes of its citizens.

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i gospodarske krize, koja je zadala teæak udarac ekonomskoj moÊi mariborskih Æidova.

Osim toga, uredbom Maksimilijana I. godine 1496. svi Æidovi morali su napustiti grad, a ograniËenja za naseljavanje i zapoπljavanje Æidova ostala su na snazi sve do 1861. godine. Njihova je sinagoga bila preureena u katoliËku crkvu, a poslije je sluæila kao stambena kuÊa te kao trgovaËko skladiπte. Prije nekoliko godina obnovljena je u izvornom obliku, ali u njoj se viπe ne odræavaju bogosluæja, nego sluæi kao izloæbeni i dokumentacijski centar.

Voditelj izloæbe napominje da je to jedna od najstarijih saËuvanih sinagoga u Europi i jedna od dviju saËuvanih u Sloveniji.

U srediπtu je grada i prostrani park, idealan za πetnju i opuπtanje odraslima, a djeci prostor za bezbriænu igru. Rubovi parka i grada na sjevernoj strani dodiruju vinorodne breæuljke, na kojima dozrijeva vinova loza. Doista su dojmljivi vinski trsovi koji se spuπtaju u gradski park i u srediπte grada, upotpunjujuÊi na osobit naËin sliku grada bojama vinograda s osunËanih breæuljaka.

U gradskoj jezgri mnogo je galerija, muzeja i izloæbi, a popriliËno je i dogaaja te festivala.

Kreiranju vrhunske gradske kulture nedvojbeno je mnogo pridonijelo Slovensko narodno kazaliπte, u kojemu danas djeluju poznati umjetnici. Cijeli ansambl drame, opere i baleta poznat je po umjetniËkim dosezima svjetske razine. Tomu u prilog svjedoËi i to πto je u listopadu 2011. u Hrvatskom narodnom kazaliπtu u Zagrebu postavljena predstava Rat i mir, koju je reæirao slovenski kazaliπni redatelj svjetskoga glasa Tomaæ Pandur - podrijetlom iz Maribora. Svakako treba spomenuti i Narodni dom, koji je u posljednje vrijeme postao glavni kulturni pokretaË gradskih zbivanja.

U Lutkarskom kazaliπtu Mocja Planπak upoznaje nas s lutkarskim ansamblom i najvaænijim priredbama, a vodi nas i u tajne odaje gdje se izrauju unikatne scenske lutke.

Lutkarsko kazaliπte prije godinu dana uselilo se u obnovljen prostor, koji je vjeπtim arhitektonskim intervencijama na starom zdanju nekadaπnjeg samostana dobio sasvim nove dimenzije. U kazaliπtu nalazi se i mali muzej lutki iz predstava koje viπe nisu na repertoaru ujedno i najslikovitiji prikaz povijesti kazaliπta.

Maribor je grad mnogobrojnih dobro posjeÊenih festivala, koji se odræavaju tijekom cijele godine. Srediπnje je dogaanje multikulturni festival Lent, koji svake godine u lipnju dravske obale pretvara u æivahno kulturno i druπtveno srediπte πto pulsira u ritmovima cijeloga svijeta. Po mnogo toga taj je festival sliËan naπem ©pancir-festu u Varaædinu, no ne treba zaboraviti da Lent ima dulju tradiciju i viπestruko viπe priredbi, izvoaËa i posjetite-

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ϭϮ͘ ŵĞĜƵŶĂƌŽĚŶŝ ĨĞƐƟǀĂů ŬŽŵŽƌŶĞ ŐůĂnjďĞ ͬ ϭϮth /ŶƚĞƌŶĂƟŽŶĂů ŚĂŵďĞƌ DƵƐŝĐ &ĞƐƟǀĂů

Julian Julian Rachlin Rachlin & Friends Friends s DUBROVNIK D U B R O VNIK K 27.08.-08.09.2012.

27.08.-08.09.2 2012. Ύ ĚĂƚĞƐ ĂŶĚ ƉƌŽŐƌĂŵ ƐƵďũĞĐƚ ƚŽ ĐŚĂŶŐĞ Ύ Ě ĚĂƚĞ ĂƚĞƐ Ă Ɛ ĂŶĚ ĚƉ ƉƌŽ ŽŐŐƌĂ ŐƌƌƌĂĂŵ Ɛ ŵ ƐƵďũ ƵďũĞĐƚ Ğ ƚŽ ĐŚ ĞĐƚ ŚĂŶŐĞ

ǁǁǁ͘ƌĂĐŚůŝŶĂŶĚĨƌŝĞŶĚƐ͘ĐŽŵ

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lja - to je najveÊi festival u Sloveniji i jedan od najveÊih u Europi i svijetu. Na predstavama i koncertima u sklopu festivala Lent samo je proπle godine sudjelovalo 4964 izvoaËa iz 40 zemalja svijeta, a tim brojevima treba pridodati i 1888 sudionika na sportskim natjecanjima odræanima u sklopu Lenta. Neumorni pokretaË i nositelj svih aktivnosti Lenta, direktor Narodnog doma Maribor Vladimir Rukavina, pohvalio nam se statistiËkim podatkom da je lani na festivalskim priredbama sudjelovalo 650.000 posjetitelja - πesterostruko viπe nego πto Maribor ima stanovnika.

- Kad smo prije 20 godina poËeli s festivalom, æeljeli smo kulturu iz zatvorenih prostora prenijeti na ulice i tako pribliæiti stanovnicima grada, ali i svima onima koji prepoznaju kulturu kao kljuËan dio naπega æivota. Odmah smo æeljeli da to bude viπedimenzionalni festival koji Êe kulturu prezentirati u najπirem smislu - od komornih koncerata ozbiljne glazbe do rock- koncerata. Jedini kriterij bio je da izvoaËi budu kvalitetni i da dostojno predstavljaju kulturu. Uostalom, ovaj je festival tako popularan upravo zbog kvalitete.

Uistinu, festival Lent najpoznatije je festivalsko dogaanje u Sloveniji i danas jedan od novih brendova Maribora. Maribor nastoji svoju kulturnu aktivnost, a napose festival Lent, najviπe πto je moguÊe prilagoditi novom vremenu i novim tehnologijama, jer tako kultura ulazi u svaËiji dom. Lent tako ima svoju facebook stranicu s viπe od 10.000 prijatelja, svoju aplikaciju za mobilne telefone, svoju televiziju i svoj kanal na YouTubeu.

Osim Lenta, u Mariboru se odræava i niz veÊih i manjih festivala kao πto su Borπtnikovo sreËanje (Borπtnikov susret), Festival Maribor, Magdalena, Izzven (Odzvanjanje) i drugi. Osobito su popularni Festival stare trte (Festival stare loze), Pisani december (©areni prosinac), DokMa, Etnika i druge tradicionalne priredbe, npr. Splavarski krst (Splavarsko krπtenje), Martinje i Nova godina na otvorenome. Svi ti festivali svrstavaju Maribor medu vaæna kulturna srediπta zbog svih tih dogaanja.

Nema sumnje da je dokazana sposobnost za organizaciju takvih festivala, i to πto u Mariboru kultura æivi na gradskim ulicama i u domovima njegovih graana, bila jedan od razloga zaπto je upravo Maribor odabran za europski grad kulture 2012. godine. Ugledna titula koju Maribor nosi u 2012. godini velika je Ëast, ali i obaveza.

Mladoga marketinπkog promotora Maribora Mitju ©eπka pitali smo πto takvo domaÊinstvo znaËi Mariboru i MariborËanima.

- Europski grad kulture projekt je koji ne traje samo jednu godinu. Naπ je cilj da tijekom tih godinu dana podignemo razinu kulturne

ponude i predstavimo grad kao kulturno srediπte πireg prostora. Osim toga, cilj nam je obuhvatiti kulturu u najπirem smislu - dakle ne samo koncerte i izloæbe kao najistaknutiji dio kulturne ponude, nego i kulturu stanovanja, kulturu dijaloga, kulturu æivota... sve ono πto kulturu Ëini velikom idejom. Nema sumnje, ambiciozni projekt realizira se s velikom ozbiljnoπÊu i velikim oËekivanjima.

Maribor je stjeciπte mnogih vinskih putova gdje se proizvode vrhunska bijela vina i istodobno izvrsno odrediπte za vinske poznavatelje i sladokusce. Uz to kulinarske i istraæivaËke uæitke nude mnogobrojna seoska turistiËka gospodarstva u okolici, gdje se veÊ duga stoljeÊa Ëuvaju i njeguju stari recepti lokalnih izvornih jela, kao πto su npr. kosana mast, bundevino ulje, πtajerski mesni specijaliteti, pohorski omlet, tj. pohorski pisker, slasna πtajerska jabuka i mnogi drugi.

Dokaz o veoma bogatoj vinskoj tradiciji grada jedinstvena je najstarija loza na svijetu koja veÊ stoljeÊima raste i raa u staroj gradskoj jezgri, uza zid stare katnice u blizini Drave.

NemoguÊe je toËno odrediti kad je dugovjeËni trs prvi put olistao, no starost loze procjenjuje se na viπe od 400 godina. Najstariji æivuÊi trs na svijetu - mariborska stara trta - upisan je i u Guinessovu knjigu rekorda. MariborËani su na nj vrlo ponosni, uredili su mu kuÊu i u njoj postavili muzej, a posvetili su mu i festival kulinarstva i vina, koji je - osim proslave Martinja - pravi πtajerski praznik. Poznato je kako se petnaestak litara vina, koliko se od njega proizvede svake godine, u malim koliËinama puni u posebne boËice i Ëuva kao najdragocjenije blago. Vino najstarije loze nije u prodaji, nego se daruje kao gradski suvenir u sveËanim protokolarnim prigodama.

U Muzeju stare trte moæe se vidjeti i pismo zahvale koje je mariborskim vinarima poslao bivπi predsjednik SAD-a Bill Clinton, kuπavπi vrhunsko vino stare trte.

Ljubitelje vina oduπevit Êe i posjet podrumu vinarije Vinag u srediπtu Maribora, koji skromnim nazivom Vinagova klet ne daje naslutiti veliËinu podzemnih hodnika koji nalikuju na prave podzemne ulice. Duæ velebnih podzemnih tunela redaju se baËve razliËitih veliËina i razliËite starosti, meu kojima i mnoge velike kao kuÊe, sve oznaËene kuÊnim brojevima, pa se πetajuÊi hodnicima ne moæete oteti dojmu da se nalazite u pravom podzemnom gradu. Vrijeme je za svaku kuÊu i svaku ulicu satkalo poneku priËu, pa neÊete ni osjetiti kako u ovome æivopisnom podrumu vrijeme za posjet (pre)brzo prolazi.

Povrπina je podzemnih hodnika 20.000 Ëetvornih metara, a u podrumu ima mjesta za pet i pol milijuna litara vina! Postoji samo

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nekoliko gradova u svijetu koji u srediπtu mjesta imaju tako velik vinski podrum. Mariborski vinski podrum u funkciji je od sredine 19. stoljeÊa, a vinarija Vinag joπ se i danas koristi njime za proizvodnju i Ëuvanje svojih vina. U posebnom tunelu Ëuvaju se najstarija vina, namijenjena kupcima dubokoga dæepa.

- Ima i takvih, dakako - sa smijeπkom nam otkriva Mateja ©tabuc, pozivajuÊi nas da zavirimo u najmraËniji dio podruma. - U odjeljku arhivskih vina ima mjesta za 400.000 boca, a danas ih je oko 250.000. Najstarije arhivsko vino ovog podruma rizling je kasne berbe godine 1946. godine.

Maribor je poznat i kao grad sporta i rekreacije te kao dobar organizator mnogih vrhunskih meunarodnih sportskih dogaaja. Njegovu su slavu po svijetu pronijele mnogobrojne tradicionalne sportske priredbe, meu koje se zacijelo ubraja Zlatna lisica, koja se veÊ viπe od Ëetiri desetljeÊa odræava na mariborskom Pohorju.

Mitja nam je ispriËao svoju anegdotu s Pohorja: - Meu mladima u Mariboru oduvijek je bilo popularno skijanje na Pohorju. I ja sam u tome vrlo rado sudjelovao, pa Ëak i na skijaπkim natjecanjima koja su se ovdje odræavala. Eto, na jednom natjecanju bio sam trinaesti - i bio sam nesretan s takvim plasmanom. Dobro se sjeÊam deËka iz Zagreba koji je bio odliËan u svim natjecanjima, ali je taj put bio nekoliko stotinki sporiji od mene i osvojio je 14. mjesto - bio je to Ivica KosteliÊ. Eto, na tom natjecanju bio sam bolji od buduÊeg pobjednika svjetskog kupa!

Maribor je s Pohorjem srastao sliËno kao i Zagreb s Medvednicom, a nije tajna da su skijaπka natjecanja na naπem Sljemenu osmiπljena i organizirana upravo po uzoru na Zlatnu lisicu. Pohorje je okrenuto sjevernom stranom prema gradu. Zato pohorska natjecateljska skijaπka staza zavrπava na rubu Maribora, pa je lako pristupaËna. Sasvim je uobiËajeno da se svake zimske veËeri, nakon posla, MariborËani zapuÊuju na noÊno skijanje na neku od pohorskih skijaπkih staza.

U podnoæju Pohorja, kod ciljne arene staze Zlatne lisice, nalazi se nekoliko hotela visokih kategorija, a sliËno je i na vrπnom dijelu Pohorja. Najpoznatiji su hoteli Habakuk i Arena, a na vrπnom dijelu Pohorja hoteli Bellevue, Bolfenk i Videc. Svi oni, osim skijaπkih moguÊnosti, nude i vrlo πiroku ponudu prateÊih aktivnosti - od bazena i wellnesa do organizacije kongresa i raznovrsnih pustolovnih i sportskih aktivnosti. Suprotno oËekivanjima, domaÊini nam otkrivaju da su u hotelima najbrojniji upravo hrvatski skijaπi.

- Ovi skijaπki tereni privlaËe najviπe Hrvate, Slovence, Austrijance, ali i Maare, kojima je to najbliæe pravo skijaliπte.

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Od zadnje autobusne stanice na Pohorje moæe se stiÊi lako brzom visinskom æiËarom, koja u zimsko doba vozi neprekidno, a u ostatku godine svaki sat. Voænja æiËarom oduπevljava jer niotkuda se ne pruæa tako lijep vidik na cijeli Maribor i dolinu Drave kao s Pohorja.

Sportske aktivnosti MariborËana nisu vezane samo uz Pohorje. Grad je domaÊin meunarodnih nogometnih susreta na obnovljenom stadionu Ljudski vrt, meunarodnih natjecanja u hokeju, plivanju, biciklizmu i streljaπtvu i mnogim drugim sportovima. Maribor zbog mnogobrojnih sportskih objekata nudi izvrsne uvjete za sve oblike vrhunskog sporta. Upravo zato nije iznenaujuÊe πto je grad odabran za domaÊina 26. zimske univerzijade koja Êe se odræati 2013. godine.

Te godine Maribor Êe ujedno biti i svjetski grad mladih.

Sve sportske priËe o Mariboru ne mogu zaobiÊi ime gimnastiËkog πampiona Leona ©tukelja. Na velikim svjetskim sportskim priredbama u svojoj mladosti osvojio je 20 medalja, od Ëega šest olimpijskih. MariborËani Êe obvezatno napomenuti kako je i u vrlo visokoj æivotnoj dobi - a doæivio je 101 godinu - redovito trenirao i vjeæbao na gradskim ulicama, privlaËeËi zadivljujuÊe poglede znatiæeljnika i svjedoËeÊi da se u zdravom tijelu krije zdrav duh. Ime mariborskoga sportskog velikana danas nosi glavna gradska sportska dvorana, a pripovijest o neumornom sportaπu prerasla je u pravu urbanu legendu.

Niπta manje nije dojmljiva ni priËa o Hermanu PotoËniku Noordungu, vizionaru astronautike i idejnom zaËetniku Ëovjekova putovanja u svemir, Ëija se bista nalazi pred zgradom mariborskog sveuËiliπta na Slomπkovu trgu.

Herman je roen 1892. godine u Puli, a djetinjstvo proveo u Mariboru. U knjizi Das Problem der Befahrung des Weltraums (Problem voænje svemirom) iznio je genijalnu ideju o geostacionarnom satelitu, koju je potanko razradio: naveo je zadivljujuÊe precizne nacrte satelita, te s velikom toËnoπÊu odredio visinu na kojoj Êe satelit kruæiti (35.900 km), kao i brzinu njegova kruæenja (3080 m/s). Tridesetak godina nakon njegove knjige, 1963. godine, vodeÊi struËnjak za rakete Werner von Braun prilikom lansiranja ameriËkog satelita Syncom izjavio je: - Udaljenost od Zemlje i pribliænu toËku u svemiru sa zavidnom je toËnoπÊu odredio joπ 1928. godine umirovljeni satnik austrijske vojske, inæenjer Herman PotoËnik. Njegova knjiga Problem voænje svemirom povijesna je prekretnica u svjetskoj svemirskoj i raketnoj tehnici.

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PotoËnikovo djelo ovjekovjeËeno je i u jednome od najpoznatijih filmskih prizora iz Kubrickove Odiseje, kad se svemirski brod pribliæava velikom kotaËu smjeπtenome u orbiti Zemlje. Taj veliki kotaË idejno je dijete Hermana PotoËnika Noordunga.

Burna povijest i mnoge nedaÊe ostavile su na Mariboru mnogobrojne rane i spomenike, u njemu su se povijest i tradicija neprestano mijeπale sa suvremenoπÊu i dinamiËnoπÊu.

Arheoloπki nalazi svjedoËe da je mariborsko podruËje bilo naseljeno joπ u kasno bronËano i æeljezno doba, no po svemu sudeÊi tu nije bilo velikog naselja. O starosti Maribora novosti su donijela nedavna arheoloπka istraæivanja, u kojima su neposredno uza sjevernu obalu Drave otkriveni ostaci nekoliko rimskih graevina. Ipak, to je nedovoljno da bi se pouzdano moglo utvrditi kontinuirano postojanje naselja od rimskih vremena, pa se nitko ne æuri donositi zakljuËke o rimskoj preteËi grada dok arheolozi ne zavrπe istraæivanja. Jasno je da tu nije bilo veliko rimsko srediπte poput Emone na podruËju danaπnje Ljubljane, no unatoË tomu odgovor na pitanje πto se dogaalo uz Dravu u rimskom razdoblju jedno je od najintrigantnijih pitanja za suvremene slovenske arheologe i povjesniËare.

Jezgrom nastanka Maribora smatra se utvrda podignuta na vrhu breæuljka strmih strana zvanom Piramida, koji dominira sa sjeverne strane dravske doline. Utvrda je tijekom povijesti viπe puta bila dograivana i ruπena, a do danaπnjih dana od svega nije ostalo niπta osim fragmentarnih povijesnih zapisa i legendi. BuduÊi da je u poËetku 12. stoljeÊa podruËje na kojemu se danas nalazi grad Maribor bilo na granici velike franaËke dræave, utvrda je oËito sluæila za nadzor prometa kroz dolinu Drave. Utvrda se prvi put spominje u dokumentima 20. listopada 1164. kao Castrum Marchburch i taj se dan slavi kao dan grada. Naziv grada potjeËe od pojma dvorac u marki, ili na njemaËkom Markburg. Utvrda je vjerojatno sagraena i prije, o Ëemu svjedoËi zapis da se markgrof Podravske krajine iz roda Spanheim nazivao Bernard Markburπki joπ 1124. godine.

Pod brijegom i utvrdom, ali podalje od nepredvidljive Drave, poËelo se u to doba razvijati trgovaËko naselje. Godine 1209. trgoviπte se u povelji vojvode Leopolda VI. Babenberæana spominje kao trgoviπte forum Marchpurch, a u dokumentu od 4. prosinca 1254. Maribor prvi put spominje kao mjesto civitatem Marpurg, πto znaËi da je naselje tada imalo obiljeæja grada i gradska prava, no joπ su stoljeÊa trebala proÊi da bi trgoviπte dosegnulo snagu nedalekog Ptuja, najstarijega 110

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grada na podruËju Slovenije. Za zaπtitu grada podignute su moÊne zidine, Ëiji se ostaci naziru i danas. Maribor je uspjeπno prkosio opsadama Matijaπa Korvina 1480. i 1481. godine, te se obranio od opsada osmanlijske vojske u 16. stojeÊu.

Do poËetka 19. stoljeÊa grad je imao samo jedan, njemaËki naziv Marburg, koji su Slovenci preinaËili u u Marprok. Da bi se izbjegla zamjena s njemaËkim gradom Marburgom, koji se nalazi u Hessenu na rijeci Lahn (Marburg an der Lahn), u 19. stoljeÊu poËelo se ime grada pisati kao Marburg an der Drau (njemaËki Marburg na Dravi). Prvi zapis slovenskog imena Maribor nalazi se u pismu preporoditelja Stanka Vraza poslanome Ljudevitu Gaju 10. studenoga 1836. godine.

Vraz je jednostavno ime njemaËkog Marburga preuredio tako da je iz njemaËkog naziva uzeo prvi dio rijeËi Mar, a umjesto rijeËi burg upotrijebio bor, po uzoru na naËin kako su Slovenci prevodili Brandenburg u Branibor.

Uglavnom zbog otpora meu Slovencima, borba za uspostavu imena trajala je sljedeÊih 25 godina, no veÊ u drugoj polovici 19. stoljeÊa potpuno je prevladao naziv Marbor, koji je poslije preinaËen u lakπe izgovorljiv naziv Maribor.

Grad je snaæan ekonomski uzlet doæivio u godinama nakon 1846. kad je kroz njega prošla æeljezniËka pruga koja je povezala BeË i Trst. Jedna od prvih æeljezniËkih pruga u Europi dala je i Mariboru novu ulogu, koju je grad objeruËke prihvatio i razvio se u malu metropolu slovenske ©tajerske.

Izgled Maribora u drugoj polovici 19. i prvoj polovici 20. stoljeÊa oblikovala su dva istaknuta Ëovjeka, biskup Anton Martin Slomπek, koji je 1859. sjediπte Lavantinske biskupije premjestio iz Svetog Andrije u Maribor, te pjesnik i general Rudolf Maister, koji je nakon Prvoga svjetskog rata grad i sjevernu granicu uspjeπno obranio i taj dio Slovenije prikljuËio novoj dræavi Slovenaca, Hrvata i Srba.

Grad je priliËno stradao u Drugome svjetskom ratu. VeÊ u poËetku rata 1941. godine grad se naπao pod njemaËkom vlaπÊu, a da bi potvrdio svoje osvajaËke namjere, nedugo nakon osvajanja posjetio ga je i Hitler. U drugoj polovici 20. stoljeÊa Maribor se uspjeπno razvio u jedno od najsnaænijih industrijskih i gospodarskih srediπta u tadaπnjoj Jugoslaviji i u πiroj regiji, a proizvodi poznatih tvornica TAM, MTT, Metalna, Hidromontaæa, Marles i drugih, postali su poznati po visokoj kvaliteti proizvoda. Ali, osamostaljenje Slovenije znaËilo je za mariborsku industriju nagli gubitak træiπta, zbog Ëega su mnoga postrojenja propala te se grad morao okrenuti prema novim djelatnostima. Na mjestu nekadaπnjih 112

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velikih industrijskih zona u Melju sada su poslovni centri s mnogo novih malih poduzeÊa.

Grad se usmjerio vinarstvu, kulturi i turizmu kao svojim novim glavnim adutima.

Kad biste ZagrepËane upitali koje su im glavne asocijacije na Maribor, veÊina bi odgovorila da su to skijanje na Pohorju i natjecanje Zlatna lisica. Ne treba zaboraviti ni to da je Maribor, na temelju ustrajnog zalaganja MariborËana i dobrih prometnih veza s velikim gradovima u okruæju - Ljubljanom, Mariborom i Grazom, postao i prepoznatljivo suvremeno poslovno, studijsko i sportsko srediπte, mjesto priredbi i, ne manje vaæno, turistiËko srediπte πire regije.

Odabir Maribora za europski grad kulture 2012. godine svjedoËi da i svojom kulturnom ulogom Maribor znaËajno premaπuje okvire sjeveroistoËne Slovenije.

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Maribor je vaæna toËka na putu iz Hrvatske prema Grazu i BeËu, ali i mnogo viπe od toga - pravi uzor kako razmjerno malen grad moæe biti velik po raznolikoj turistiËkoj ponudi i po kulturnim dosezima. K tome, kultura i turizam u Mariboru joπ nisu postali masovni i industrijalizirani kao u mnogim razvikanim europskim gradovima - svaki MariborËanin rado Êe vas primiti kao dragoga gosta i bez laænog osmijeha potruditi se da vam posjet Mariboru ostane u ugodnoj uspomeni. Upravo je ova godina idealna za posjet nedalekomu Mariboru - europskoj prijestolnici kulture. n he location of Maribor (Slovenia) has always played an important role in transport. This place is exactly at the half point of the Drava River flow, pre-

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cisely where the clear river derives from the high mountain valleys and becomes a quiet lowland river. In Maribor the Drava valley expands, and on the way to the Pannonian plains the river does not go through an environment of high mountains again. Along the Drava in Maribor one can still see the foundations of the narrow bridge which at the time of the Habsburg monarchy was used by heavy traffic − Maribor was the main link between Croatia and Vienna. Even today Maribor has remained important for traffic − especially for Croatia, because Maribor is a key point on one of the main routes to Western Europe.

Until recently, all road traffic toward Graz and Vienna went through the city, but a few years ago Maribor city traffic was relieved due to the construction of a modern ring road, which

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makes the trip from Zagreb to Austria seem even shorter.

Along its 720 kilometre long journey the Drava does not have many large tributaries − the main tributary is the Mura River, which strengthens the water of the Drava at Legrad.

The three main cities on the Drava are Maribor in Slovenia and Varaædin and Osijek in Croatia − all of which are very picturesque cities with rich cultures and interesting histories. The Drava, obviously, has a beneficial impact on culture and people.

The city centre of Maribor is located on the northern side of the Drava River, opposite of Pohorje, under which the newer part of town is located. The old part of Maribor is similar to many other central European cities of similar size in terms of the architectural heritage and the structure, but it has something of its own which makes the city seem different from the others. Here every street and every corner offers a different picture − from the peaceful and quiet alleys with the old huts you will instantly arrive at the broad street with harmonious Secession buildings, while from the other corner you will reach the square full of greenery which is surrounded by magnificent buildings with modern lines which are the centre of the university, church and business life, and then, a quite unassuming street, will take you toward the wide promenade along the bank of the Drava River. Many of Secession buildings alternate with newer buildings created after the Second World War and in more recent times. Maribor, in fact, suffered significant damage during the Second World War − nearly half the city was completely destroyed, and thanks to the reconstruction in the post war period a charming combination of old and new architectural styles was created. Among the old buildings, one that particularly stands out is the Church of Janez Krstnik (St. John the Baptist), which was built in Romanesque style, as well as the old Maribor burg − an edifice boasting solid walls with beautiful archways and the city tower. On the main square is a monument to the victims of the plague and the building of the old city hall which with its appearance and erect tower with a clock mechanism is overwhelmingly reminiscent of the old town hall in our own Varaædin. From the time when the entire town centre was surrounded by walls there remain several preserved towers, including the two that draw the most attention, the Water Tower and the Jewish Tower. Today the Water Tower houses a wine cellar with a long tradition.

Next to the Jewish Tower is a rebuilt synagogue that reminds of the fact that in the Middle Ages Maribor was the main centre of

the Jewish community in the wider area. The Jewish ghetto in Maribor was first mentioned in 1277. The ghetto was located in the south eastern part of the city, and at its peak in the 15th century it had many street and squares.

The fame of the Maribor Jewish community at that time was spread by the most famed Rabbi Israel Isserlein, who was considered the most important Talmudic scholar in the countries of the Holy Roman Empire in the first half of the 15th century. After 1450, the situation for the Jewish community dramatically changed due to increased competition from other retailers and the economic crisis that dealt a heavy blow to the economic power of the Maribor Jews. In addition, according to the regulation by Maximilian I in 1496, all the Jews had to leave the city, and restrictions on settlement and recruitment of Jews remained in force until 1861. Their synagogue was converted into a Catholic church, and later served as a residence and as a commercial warehouse. Several years ago it was rebuilt to its original form, but it is not a place of worship, rather it serves as an exhibition and documentation centre. The head of the exhibition will introduce you to the fact that this is one of the oldest preserved synagogues in Europe and one of two preserved in Slovenia.

In the centre of town is a spacious park which offers an ideal haven for walking and relaxation for adults, as well as a children’s play area for carefree games. The edges of the park and the city on the northern side touch the wine-growing hills on which grapes ripen. It is really impressive to see how the grape-vines descend into the city park and in the centre, in a special way completing the picture of the city with the colours of the vineyards on the sunny hillside.

In the town centre there are many galleries, museums and exhibitions, and many events and festivals are held here. The Slovene National Theatre, where famous artists create culture today, has undoubtedly contributed to the creation of the top-class city culture.

The entire ensemble of drama, opera and ballet is known for its artistic achievements on the world level. This is supported by the fact that in October 2011 the Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb presented a performance of War and Peace which was directed by world renowned Slovenian theatre director Tomaz Pandur − a native of Maribor. It is important to mention Narodni Dom, which has recently become a major driver of urban cultural events.

At the Puppet Theatre Mojca Planπak introduces us to the puppet ensemble and the CROATIA AIRLINES

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most important events, and leads us into the secret chamber where the unique theatrical puppets are made. A year ago the Puppet Theatre moved into a renovated space − the building of a former monastery which was given an entirely new appearance with skilled architectural interventions. Inside the theatre is a small museum of puppets from the plays which are no longer in the repertory − also it is the most colourful display of the history of the theatre.

Maribor has many well-visited festivals which are held throughout the year. The main event is the multicultural festival of Lent which in June transforms the banks of the Drava into a lively cultural and social centre that pulsates to rhythms of the whole world. In many ways the festival is similar to Croatian ©pancir Festival in Varaædin, but one should not forget that Lent has a long tradition and many times the number of shows, performers and visitors − this is the biggest festival in Slovenia and one of the largest in Europe and worldwide. The plays and concerts at last year’s Lent Festival alone featured as many as 4964 performers from 40 countries worldwide, and these numbers should be added to the 1888 participants in sporting competitions held within the framework of Lent. The person behind all

the activities of Lent is the tireless director of the Narodni Dom of Maribor, Vladimir Rukavina. He proudly shared with us last year’s statistics according to which the festival’s events included 650,000 visitors − more than six times the population of Maribor.

- When we started with the festival 20 years ago we wanted the culture of closed spaces to be conveyed onto the streets, and in this way bring it closer to the inhabitants of the city, and all those who recognize culture as a key part of our lives. From the very outset, we wanted it to be a multifaceted festival which would offer culture in the broadest sense − from chamber concerts of classical music to rock concerts. The only criterion was that the performers are good quality and that they appropriately present culture. After all, this festival is so popular precisely thanks to the quality.

Indeed, the festival of Lent is the most famous festival in Slovenia and today it is one of the new brands of Maribor. Maribor strives to adapt its cultural activity, particularly the festival of Lent, to new times and new technologies because in this way culture enters into everyone’s home. Lent also has its own Facebook page with more than 10,000 friends, its own application for mobile phones,

its own television channel and its own channel on YouTube.

In addition to Lent, there are a series of larger and smaller festivals held in Maribor, such as the Maribor Theatre Festival (Borπtnik Gathering), Festival Maribor, Magdalena Festival, Izzven Jazz Festival (Sounding Off) and others. Especially popular are the Old Vine Festival, Colourful December, DokMa, and ethnic and other traditional events, such as Rafter’s Christening, St. Martin’s Day and the New Year’s Eve outdoors. All these festivals classify Maribor among the important cultural centres because all of these events excel.

There is no doubt that the proven ability to organize such festivals and the fact that in Maribor cultures lives on the city streets and in the homes of its citizens was one of the reasons why Maribor was selected as the European City of Culture 2012. The prestigious title, which Maribor carry in 2012, is a great honour and a responsibility.

We asked the young marketing promoter of Maribor, Mitja ©eπko, about the significance of hosting such an important event to Maribor and Mariborians.

- The European City of Culture is a project that will not last only for one year. Our goal is that during this year we raise the level of cultural

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feels like home :) Located downtown, in the heart of Zagreb’s bustling business district, Hotel International is the ideal venue, whether you’re visiting the City for business or pleasure. Our spacious, elegantly appointed guest-rooms, and luxurious suites, will ensure that your stay in Zagreb will be one to remember. Just minutes away from Zagreb’s main attractions, the Hotel International is your best bet as a starting point to explore the City’s hidden corners, green parks, picturesque open-air markets, theatres, museums, galleries, bohemian cafés and lively clubs.

“Feels like home ...” is not just a slogan, but rather our service promise.

Come and see for yourself - be sure to book Hotel International on your next visit to Zagreb.

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0DULD =DJUHE 0DVDU\NRYD 0DULD 'XEURYQLN 6Y 'RPLQLND EE 2XWOHW 'XEURYQLN &YLMHWH =X]RULรพ www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr facebook.com/mariastore.hr

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www.a bis-croa tia .com offerings and present the city as a cultural centre in the greater region. In addition, we aim to include culture in the broadest sense − i.e., not just concerts and exhibitions as a distinct part of the cultural offerings, but also the culture of living, the culture of dialogue, the culture of life... everything that makes culture such a great idea. There is no doubt; the ambitious project has been approached with great seriousness and great expectations.

Maribor is the focal point for many wine roads where excellent white wines are produced, and at the same time, it is an excellent destination for wine connoisseurs and gourmets.

Many of the rural households in this area also offer culinary and exploration opportunities.

For centuries already they have cherished and protected the old recipes of authentic local dishes, such as chopped and seasoned pork fat, pumpkin oil, Styrian meat specialties, Pohorje omelettes, i.e., Pohorski pisker, delicious Styrian apples and many others.

Evidence of the very rich wine tradition of the city is represented by the unique, oldest vine in the world, which for centuries has grown and regenerated in the old town centre, along the walls of the old storey houses near the Drava River. It is impossible to determine exactly when the long-lived vine leafed out

for the first time, but its age is estimated at more than 400 years old. The oldest living vine in the world − the Maribor Old Vine − was entered into the Guinness Book of Records.

The Mariborians are very proud of it. They fitted out a house for it and set up a museum inside, and have devoted a culinary and wine festival to it, which is, in addition to celebrating St. Martin’s Day, the true Styrian holiday.

There is no need to especially emphasize that the 15-odd litres of wine which it yields each year is used in small quantities to fill special bottles and is preserved as a precious treasure. The wine from the oldest vine is not for sale, but it is given as a souvenir of the city at special protocol occasions. In the Museum of Old Vine one can see a letter of thanks to the Maribor wine producers sent

by U.S. President Bill Clinton upon tasting the premium wine Old Vine.

Wine lovers will be thrilled with a visit to the wine cellar Vinag in the centre of Maribor, whose modest nickname Vinag’s Cellar does not imply the size of the underground passages that resemble real underground street. Along the magnificent underground tunnels are rows of barrels of different sizes and different ages, including many which are as big as houses, all of which are marked with

house numbers so while walking through the hallways you cannot escape the feeling that you are in a real underground city. Times past have given every house and every street a special story, so you will not even notice that in this lively basement the time of your visit (too) quickly leaks away.

The surface of underground tunnels is 20 thousand square meters, and in the basement there is room for five and a half million litres of wine! There are just a few cities in the world that have such a large wine cellar in the centre of town. The Maribor wine cellar has been in operation since the mid-19th century, and today the Vinag winery still uses it for manufacturing and storing wine. The oldest wines are kept in a separate tunnel, intended for customers with deep pockets.

- There are those, of course, Matthew ©tabuc reveals with a smile, inviting us to look into the darkest part of the basement.

- In a section where old vintage and rare wines are kept there is space for 400,000 bottles of wine, and currently there are about 250,000. The oldest vintage in this cellar is 1946 late harvest Riesling.

Maribor is also known as a city of sport and recreation, and as a good organizer of many top international sporting events. Its CROATIA AIRLINES

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claims to global fame are its many traditional sporting events, including the Golden Fox, a competition which has been held at Pohorje in Maribor for over 4 decades. Mitja shared with us his own Pohorje-related anecdote: - Skiing at Pohorje has always been popular among the youngsters of Maribor. I was no exception. I even participated in ski competitions that were held here. Well, I ended one event in 13th position which did not make me very happy. I remember well the guy from Zagreb who was excellent in all competitions, but that time he was a few hundredths of a second slower than me and took 14th place it was Ivica KosteliÊ. So, at that competition I was better than the future winner of the World Cup! The close relationship that Maribor has forged with Pohorje may be compared with Zagreb’s relationship with Medvednica, and it is no secret that skiing competitions on Croatian Sljeme have been modelled after the Golden Fox. Pohorje faces the city with its north side. As a result, the trails of the Pohorje ski competitions end at the edge of Maribor, and are easily accessible. It is quite common that on every winter evening, after work, the Mariborians set out for night skiing on one of the Pohorje ski slopes.

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At the foothills of Pohorje, at the finish line of the Golden Fox, there are several high category hotels, and the situation is similar at the peak of Pohorje as well. The most famous hotels are Habakkuk and Arena, and at the peak of Pohorje are the Bellevue Hotel and Bolfenk and Videc. All of them, in addition to skiing opportunities, offer a broad range of other activities - from swimming pools and wellness to the organization of congresses and various adventure and sport activities.

Contrary to expectations, the hosts revealed to us that Croatian skiers make up the greatest number of guests at the hotels. These ski slopes attract mostly Croats, Slovenes, Austrians, and Hungarians as well, since this is the closest real ski resort to them.

From the last bus stop Pohorje can easily be reached by the fast vertical lift, which during the winter season runs continuously, while the rest of the year it operates every hour. The cable car ride is exciting because nowhere else can one have such a beautiful view of all of Maribor and the Drava River valley as from Pohorje.

The Mariborians do not relate sports activities only with Pohorje. The city also hosts international football matches at the renovated stadium, Ljudski Vrt (People’s Garden), inter-

national competitions in hockey, swimming, cycling, archery and many other sports. Owing to the numerous sports facilities, Maribor provides excellent conditions for all forms of competitive sports. Therefore, it should come as no surprise that the city was chosen to host the 26th Winter Universiade, which will be held in 2013. That year Maribor will also be the World’s Youth Capital.

Sports stories of Maribor would not be complete without mentioning the name of gymnastics champion Leon ©tukelj. As a young athlete he won 20 medals at the world’s great sporting, of which 6 were Olympic medals.

The Mariborians will not fail to mention that at a very old age − he lived to be 101 years old − he regularly trained and practiced on the city streets, arousing admiration among curious onlookers and proving by example that a sound mind indeed lives in a sound body. The town’s main sports hall still bears the name of Maribor’s sporting great, and the story about the tireless athlete has, in the meantime, become a real urban legend.

Hardly less impressive is the story of Herman PotoËnik Noordung, a visionary of astronautics and the brain behind the idea of man’s travels into space, whose bust can be seen in front of the University of Maribor building in

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Slomπkov Square. Herman was born in 1892 in Pula and moved to Maribor as a child. In his book entitled Problem der Befahrung des Weltraums (The Problem of Space Travel) he presented the breakthrough idea of a geostationary satellite which he elaborated in minute details. He illustrated his books with remarkably precise drawings of satellites and calculated the distance of the orbit on which the satellite would circle around the Earth (35,900 km), as well as the speed at which it would do so (3.080 m/s) with a high degree of accuracy. Some thirty years after the publication of his book, at the launch of the American satellite Syncom in 1963, the leading rocket authority Werner von Braun stated: - The distance between the Earth and an approximate point in space was determined quite accurately way back in 1928 by the retired captain in the Austrian Army, engineer Herman PotoËnik. His book The Problem of Space Travel is a turning point in the history of global space and rocket technologies. PotoËnik’s work was also borrowed by Stanley Kubrick in one of the best known scenes in the movie Space Odyssey where a space ship is depicted approaching a large wheel orbiting around the Earth. This large wheel is the brain child of no other than Herman PotoËnik Noordung.

The stormy past and numerous hardships have left many wounds and monuments in Maribor. In this city, history and traditions have always crossed paths with modernity and dynamism. Archaeological remains bear witness to the habitation of the area, which goes back to the late Bronze and Iron Ages.

However, there is no evidence of a sizeable local settlement in early history. Recent archaeological explorations have shed some new light on the age of Maribor as they have unearthed the remains of several Roman buildings along the northern bank of the Drava River. Yet, this does not suffice to reliably prove the continuity of settlement from the times of Ancient Rome, so nobody is in a haste to proffer conclusions about a Roman predecessor of modern-day Maribor while archaeological explorations are still ongoing. It is clear that nothing like Emona, a major Roman urban city that existed in the place of modern Ljubljana, ever existed here.

However, what went on along the Drava during the period of antiquity is something that still puzzles Slovenian archaeologists and historians who are working hard to find an adequate answer to that question.

The fortress which was erected atop of the steeply-sloped Piramida hill which domineers

over the northern side of the Drava Valley is considered to be the nucleus of future Maribor. During the course of history, the fortress was extended and destroyed several times. Nothing of it remains today, save for some fragmentary historical writings and legends. In the early 12th century, the territory of today’s Maribor was at the border of the large Frankish Empire, so the fortress was obviously there to control the traffic that passed through the Drava Valley. The first written record of the fortress under the name of Castrum Marchburch can be found in the documents dating back to 20 October 1164, which is also the date chosen as the day of the city. The city derives its name from the term March Castle or Markburg in German.

The fortress probably predates the document which is corroborated by a document proving that the Marchgraf of the Podravina Province who hailed from the Spanheim family styled himself Bernard of Markburg as early as 1124.

About that time, a market town started growing at the foot of the hill and the fortress atop of it, but a bit further from the capricious Drava River. In the year 1209, the market town was referred to as the forum Marchpurch in the charter of Duke Leopold VI. A document CROATIA AIRLINES

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issued on 4 December 1254 made the first ever reference to Maribor as civitatem Marpurg, which means that the settlement had assumed the characteristics of a town and that it enjoyed town privileges. However, centuries had to pass before the new market town matched nearby Ptuj, the oldest city in Slovenia in terms of power and influence. Strong walls were erected around the town to protect it from enemies. Its remains can be seen to this day. Maribor successfully withstood sieges by Matias Corvinus in 1480 and 1481 and by the Ottoman Empire in the 16th century.

Until the early 19th century, the town had just one German name, Marburg, which Slovenians altered to Marprok. In order to avoid confusion with the German town Marburg in Hessen on the River Lahn (Marburg an der Lahn), in the 19th century the name of the city was increasingly written as Marburg an der Drau (German translation of Marburg on the Drava). The first record of the Slovenian name of Maribor can be found in a letter that the translator from the enlightenment movement period, Stanko Vraz, sent to Ljudevit Gaj on 10th November 1836. Vraz simply rearranged the name of German Marburg by taking the first part of the German name Mar and combining it with the ending bor instead of burg, following the example of Branibor which was the Slovenian alternative for Brandenburg.

Due to opposition among the Slovenians, the struggle to adopt the new name lasted for the next 25 years. However, already in the latter part of the 19th century, the name Marbor fully prevailed. It was later changed into the more easily pronounceable Maribor.

The city experienced a powerful economic surge after 1846, the year when it became a stop on the railway line which connected Vienna and Trieste. One of the first railway lines in Europe provided Maribor with a new role, one that Maribor accepted with both its arms wide open, and so it developed into a little metropolis of the Slovenian Styria in its own right.

The appearance of Maribor was shaped in the late 19th and early 20th centuries by two prominent individuals, Bishop Anton Martin Slomπek, who moved the seat of the Lavant Diocese from Sveti Andrija to Maribor in 1859, and poet and general Rudolf Maister, who defended the city and the northern border successfully during the post WWI period and united them with the newly established State of Slovenians, Croats and Serbs.

The city suffered a considerable degree of damage during WWII. Already at the beginning of the war, in 1941, it found itself in German hands. Hitler himself visited it soon thereafter to confirm his invasion intentions. In

the second part of the 20th century, Maribor developed successfully into one of the most powerful industrial and economic centres in the then Yugoslavia and the wider region.

Goods made by the well known Mariborbased companies such as TAM, MTT, Metalna, Hidromontaæa, Marles and others were famed for their high quality. When Slovenia became an independent state, the Mariborbased industry suddenly lost a large portion of its market, which is why many of the facilities fell into a state of disrepair and the city had to turn towards new business activities.

What was once the industrial area in Melje is nowadays a busy business park with many new, small companies. The city is looking at wine making, culture and tourism as its new leading industries.

If you were to ask citizens of Zagreb what their immediate associations of Maribor are, for most these would be skiing on Pohorje and the Golden Fox skiing competition. One should not overlook the fact that due to the persistent efforts of Maribor’s citizens and good traffic connections with nearby cities, Ljubljana, Maribor and Graz, Maribor has become recognizable as a modern business, study and sports centre, a place for entertainment, and last but not least, the centre of the regional tourism industry. The choice of Maribor as the European City of Culture 2012 proves that with the role it plays in the development of culture Maribor’s influence extends far beyond the boundaries of northeast Slovenia.

Maribor is an important crossroads on route from Croatia towards Graz and Vienna, but it is even more than that: it is a true example of how even a relatively small city can be big in terms of its varied tourist offers and cultural achievements. Moreover, culture and tourism in Maribor are still not mass phenomena; they have not become industrialized as in many other popular European cities. Every citizen of Maribor will receive you as a prized guest, and without a fake smile on their face they will make sure that your visit to Maribor remains a memorable one. This year is the ideal time to visit Maribor − the European Capital of Culture. n

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unnnan je kineska provincija gotovo sedam puta prostranija od Hrvatske, Ëije je stanovniπtvo 11 puta brojnije od hrvatskoga. Smjeπten je na granici s Laosom, danaπnjim Mianmarom, nekadaπnjom Burmom, i Vijetnamom. Ta je provincija dio Kine od 2. stoljeÊa prije Krista, kad je dinastija Han, druga carska kineska dinastija, to podruËje pripojila Kini. Srediπte je provincije Kunming, grad u kojemu æivi viπe od tri milijuna stanovnika, a s okolicom brojka premaπuje i πest milijuna. Kunming je staro trgovaËko srediπte, smjeπteno na karavanskim putovima koji povezuju jugoistoËnu Aziju, Indiju, Tibet.

Grad bogate povijesti bio je vaæan i u Drugom svjetskom ratu - bio je vaæno srediπte kineske vojske, u njemu je bila ameriËka zraËna baza, a bio je i vaæan transportni terminal na glasovitome Burmanskom putu. To πto je Kunming u povijesti bio trgovaËki grad vjerojatno je pripomoglo otvorenosti lokalnog stanovniπtva. SrdaËnost i ljubaznost glavne su osobine stanovnika. Istina, sporazumijevanje s njima je oteæano, teπko je sresti nekoga tko govori strani jezik. No, komuniciranje s njima uopÊe nije nemoguÊe. DapaËe, tko æeli, uz malo truda zacijelo Êe se sporazumjeti s tim srdaËnim i znatiæeljnim ljudima.

Nekad, ne tako davno, jedan od zaπtitnih znakova Kine bio je bicikl. Svi su Kinezi vozili bicikle, a danas je standard ipak viπi. Ali, u Kunmingu ne voze svi automobile nego motocikle, i to na - elektriËni pogon.

Meu najljepπe atrakcije Kunminga ubraja se hram Yuantong, najpoznatiji budistiËki hram u cijelom Yunnanu. Hram iz 8. stoljeÊa viπe je puta obnavljan i dograivan, a posljednjih godina proπirivan je na temelju novËanih donacija iz Tajlanda. Prije πest desetljeÊa u hramu su budistiËki vjernici mogli pozdraviti sveti zub Bude i zbog toga Yuantong je postao vaæan budistiËki hram u cijeloj jugoistoËnoj Aziji. Dodatnu vaænost hramu pridaje i to πto je smjeπten u zaπtiÊenom podruËju - prirodnoj depresiji. Kunming je ugodan grad, iako smjeπten na dvije tisuÊe metara nadmorske visine, grad vjeËnog proljeÊa, ali i folklornih festivala razliËitih yunnanskih etniËkih skupina.

Meu najbrojnijim etniËkim skupinama jest narod Dai, jedna od 56 sluæbeno priznatih nacionalnih manjina u Kini. U Yunnanu ih æivi oko 1,200.000, a joπ oko 300.000 u Laosu i Tajlandu. Kao i gotovo sve etniËke skupine, i narod Dai ostao je vjeran tradiciji i tradicijskim naËinima æivota. Suncobrane, kojima se masovno koriste, mahom proizvode upravo Daiji.

Njihova je specijalnost i proizvodnja platna od bambusa, koje postiæe visoke cijene i na tome se moæe dobro zaraditi. No kad Ëovjek zna koliko je truda i muke uloæeno u proizvodnju

Tekst i fotografije/ Text and photos Nenad Reberšak

MERIDIJANI MERIDIANS ■

Kad bi se traæilo drugo ime za Yunnan, bilo bi to raznolikost.

Raznolikost Yunnana, provincije na jugozapadu Kine, odræavaju ljudi i narodi te provincije. U Yunnanu æivi viπe od 20 naroda, a svaki je treÊi stanovnik pripadnik nacionalne manjine.

Od 30.000 biljnih vrsta koliko ih ima u Kini, 17.000 ima ih u Yunnanu, a 2500 su endemske.

If you were to search for another name for Yunnan, it would be diversity. The diversity of Yunnan, a province in the southwest of China, is made up of people, nations and provinces. There are more than 20 nations in Yunnan, and every third resident belongs to a national minority. Of the 30,000 plant species that can be found in China, 17,000 of them are in Yunnan and 2,500 are endemic.

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tog platna i sazna koliko vremena treba za proizvodnju, jasno mu je da taj tradicionalni proizvod, tradicionalno proizveden, ne moæe biti jeftin. Æivot Daija kombinacija je tradicije i suvremenosti, ukorijenjenosti u vlastitu kulturu i globalizacije, a utjecaj globalizacije, na mikro razini, vidi se i u trapericama koje nosi djeËaËiÊ i na natpisu na njima.

I dok se narod Dai ubraja meu veÊe manjinske etniËke zajednice u Yunnanu, narod Wa pripada meu manje. U Yunnanu ih æivi oko 350.000, a u Mianmaru oko 600.000.

Cijeli je Yunnan na povijesnome i glasovitom putu Ëaja.

U tradicijski pripravljenom Ëaju uæiva i starac snimljen u Weng Dinu. Wa su u proπlosti bili na glasu kao narod ratnika kojima ni brutalnost nije bila strana. Europljani, osbito Britanci, koje je kolonijalizam doveo u to podruËje Kine i Burme, zvali su ih i divlji Wa, ponajviπe zbog toga πto su bili lovci na glave, πto se pak povezuje s njihovim magijskim ritualima koje su prakticirali vjerujuÊi da tako potiËu plodnost zemlje. PodruËje koje naseljava narod bremenito je narkotiËko-trgovaËkom povijeπÊu.

Upravo je to podruËje bilo jedna od glavnih baza za proizvodnju opijuma, a opijum i opijumski ratovi u 19. su stoljeÊu Kinu bacili na koljena. Danas su, Ëini se, ipak u modi neke druge kulture, barem u dijelu Kine u kojemu æive Wa, u Burmi je, navodno, ipak neπto drugaËije stanje. Vremena se mijenjaju i Wa u Kini danas viπe nisu ratnici. Æive od izrade rukotvorina, drvenih suvenira i æada.

Upravo nedaleko od Weng Dina snimljena su riæina polja. Poljoprivreda je vaæna u Yunnanu, nema neobraene zemlje. Sve, ama baπ sve πto se moæe iskoristiti, vrijedni Kinezi iskoriπtavaju. Kroz riæina polja sagraena je i suvremena cesta, ali riæina polja dopiru do ceste.

Obiljeæje je Yunnana i crvena zemlja, a ta je crvenica boju dala i glasovitoj Crvenoj rijeci, koja izvire u toj kineskoj provinciji. Kinezi je nazivaju Yuan. Vode su, uz bioloπku raznolikost, drugo veliko prirodno bogatstvo Yunnana. Viπe je od 600 rijeka i jezera u Yunnanu. Blizu je Kunminga jezero Dianchi, najveÊe u provinciji.

U Yunnanu je i jezero Fuxian, sa 155 metara dubine, drugo najdublje jezero u Kini. Kroz Yunnan protjeËe i Mekong, protjeËe i Yangtze, koju u Yunnanu zovu rijekom zlatnoga pijeska.

U ruralnim podruËjima Yunnana æivi se uz vodu i od vode. U toj, u usporedbi s drugim, istoËnijim kineskim provincijama, ruralnoj provinciji, kljuËna je za poljoprivredu. Uzgajaju se riæa, πeÊerna trska, bambus, banane, Ëaj, vaæna je za stoËarstvo, omoguÊuje razvoj slatkovodnog ribarstva, a Yunnan Êe zacijelo razviti i svoj golemi hidroenergetski potencijal.

Yunnan nudi Kinu na kakvu nismo naviknuli, 132

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Freehold Resort Home Ownership on the Adriatic Sea

Take advantage of this rare opportunity to own one of 25 recently released one and two bedroom residences. These fully appointed and professionally managed residences, ranging in size from 44 to 111 square metres, are situated in the ďŹ ve-star Dubrovnik Sun Gardens Resort only 11 kilometres from the historic Old Town of Dubrovnik. Ownership offers full access to amenities at this stunning waterfront resort, including a 201-room Radisson Blu hotel, award winning spa, sports centre and ďŹ tness facilities, a variety of restaurants and bars featuring local and international cuisine, swimming pools, beach and water sports activities.

Ä&#x2018;ĆŤ Ownership starts from â&#x201A;Ź 170,000 The information set out above is a general outline only and does not constitute part of an offer or contract and any statements made are without responsibility on the part of Dubrovacki Vrtovi Sunca d.o.o. Copyright Dubrovacki Vrtovi Sunca d.o.o 2012.

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prateÊi u zapadnim medijima πto se zbiva u toj golemoj zemlji brzoga ekonomskog rasta i industrijalizacije. Suvremenu, ali opet duboko ukorijenjenu u svoju tradiciju i tradicionalne naËine æivota: starca iz naroda Wa koji spravlja Ëaj na tradicionalan naËin, staricu za koju samo moæemo pretpostaviti da puπi opijum, ali i djeËaka iz naroda Dai u trapericama, ili pionira iz sela Baien, u koje joπ nije doprla industrijalizacija, ali teπko je ne vjerovati da ti danaπnji pioniri neÊe svjedoËiti i industrijalizaciji i tehnoloπkom osuvremenjavanju Yunnana. n unnan is a Chinese province that is almost seven times larger than Croatia, and whose population is 11 times more numerous than the Croatian population. It shares a border with Laos, today’s Myanmar, formerly Burma, and Vietnam. This province has been a part of China since the 2nd century BC, when the Han dynasty, the second Chinese imperial dynasty, annexed this area to China. The capital of the province is Kunming, a city in which more than three million inhabitants live, and with its surroundings that number exceeds six million.

Kunming is an old trading centre, situated on the caravan routes linking Southeast Asia, India and Tibet. This city with its rich history was also important during the Second World War − it was an important centre for the Chinese military, it was an American air base, and was also an important transport terminal on the renowned Burma Road. The fact that Kunming was historically a merchant city has probably contributed to the openness of the local population. The main characteristics of the population are cordiality and courtesy.

True, communication with them is somewhat difficult, as it is hard to meet someone who speaks a foreign language. However, communication is not entirely impossible. Indeed, those who want to, with a little effort, will certainly reach agreement with these kind and curious people.

Once, not so long ago, one of the trademarks of China was the bicycle. All the Chinese rode bicycles before, and today that standard is somewhat higher. However, not everyone in Kunming drives cars, but rather motorcycles − powered by electricity.

Among the most beautiful attractions in Kunming is the Yuantong Temple, the most famous Buddhist temple in all of Yunnan.

The 8th century temple has been rebuilt and upgraded several times, and in recent years it has been expanded owing to cash donations from Thailand. Six decades ago the Buddhists welcomed the sacred tooth of

Y

Buddha to the temple, and therefore Yuantong became an important Buddhist temple in the whole of Southeast Asia. The temple draws additional benefits from its location in a protected area - a natural depression. Kunming is a pleasant city, although it is located at two thousand meters above sea level. It is a city of eternal spring, as well as folk festivals of various Yunnan ethnic groups.

Among the most numerous ethnic groups are the Dai people, one of 56 officially recognized national minorities in China. About 1,200,000 of them live in Yunnan, and another 300,000 in Laos and Thailand. Like almost all ethnic groups, the Dai people have also remained faithful to tradition and the traditional ways of life. Umbrellas or parasols, which are widely used, are mainly produced by the Dai people. Their specialty is the production of bamboo fabric, which achieves a high price and therefore one can earn a decent amount.

When one knows how much work and effort is invested in the production of that fabric and finds out how long it takes to produce, it is clear that the traditional product, traditionally made, cannot be cheap. The life of the Dai people is a combination of tradition and modernity, rooted in their own culture.

Globalization also plays a large part in their lives. The impact of globalization at the micro level can be seen by the jeans worn by the little boy and by the label on them.

While the Dai people make up a larger minority of the ethnic communities in Yunnan, the Wa people are among the smaller communities. About 350,000 of them live in Yunnan, and about 600,000 live in Myanmar.

The whole of Yunnan is on the historic and famous Tea Road.

The traditionally prepared tea is enjoyed by the old man filmed in Weng Dina. The Wa people have historically been known as a warrior nation which was not a stranger to brutality. Europeans, especially the British who came to the areas of China and Burma during colonialism, called them the Wild Wa, mostly because they were head hunters, which in turn is connected with the magic rituals they practiced believing they could encourage fertility of the land. The area is inhabited by people burdened with a drugtrading history. This particular area was one of the main bases for the production of opium, while opium and the opium wars in the 19th century knocked China to its knees. However, it seems other cultures are trendy today, at least in the part of China where the Wa live.

Supposedly the situation is somewhat different in Burma. Times are changing and the Wa people in China are no longer warriors.

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They live from making handicrafts, such as souvenirs made of wood and jade.

The photo of the rice fields was taken near Weng Dina. Agriculture is important in Yunnan and there is no uncultivated land. Everything, absolutely everything that is valuable and can be used is exploited by the Chinese. A modern road has been built through the rice fields, while the rice fields stretch all the way to the road.

A characteristic of Yunnan is the red soil.

It gave the name to the famous Red River, which has its source in that Chinese province.

The Chinese call it the Yuan. Water, along with biological diversity, is the second major natural wealth of Yunnan. There are more than 600 rivers and lakes in Yunnan. The Dianchi Lake, the largest in the province, is near Kunming. The Fuxian Lake is also in Yunnan, and with its depth of 155 metres it is the second deepest lake in China. Through Yunnan the Mekong River and the Yangtze River flow, which in Yunnan is called the river of golden sand. In rural areas of Yunnan people live with the water and from the water.

Of all the eastern Chinese provinces Yunnan is the most rural one and the water is of the utmost importance for the cultivation of rice, sugar cane, bamboo, bananas and tea. It is also important for raising cattle, as well as for the development of freshwater fisheries.

Yunnan will also most probably develop its huge hydropower potential.

Yunnan offers an image of China that those of us who rely on Western media for news from this vast country with a rapid economic growth and industrialization are not accustomed to. It is modern, yet deeply rooted in its traditions and the traditional ways of life.

This is represented by the old man of the Wa people who prepares tea in the traditional way; an old woman we can only assume is smoking opium; boys from the Dai people in jeans; or the pioneers of the village Baien, which industrialization has not yet reached, but it is hard not to believe that these pioneers of today will also witness the industrialization and technological modernization of Yunnan. n

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udesni svijet zadarskih otoka podruËje je neotkrivenih ljepota, bistrog mora i nedirnute prirode.

Pag, Ugljan, Paπman, Dugi otok, Silba, Olib, Molat, Premuda, Ist, Iæ, Sestrunj, Rivanj, Rava, Zverinac, Vir, Vrgada samo neki su od viπe nego 200 otoka, otoËiÊa i hridi πto se pruæaju u Ëetiri niza paralelno s obalom, najrazliËitijih oblika i veliËina, nastanjeni ili pusti, turistiËki razvijeni ili neotkriveni. To je podruËje idealno za sve vrste aktivnosti na moru i pod morem, a vaπe Êe plovilo naÊi sigurno utoËiπte u viπe od pedesetak luka i luËica, na organiziranim sidriπtima i u zaπtiÊenim uvalama.

Unutraπnjost otoka moæe se najbolje upoznati πetnjama pjeπaËkim, planinarskim i mountain-bike stazama udiπuÊi Ëisti zrak s mirisom bogate mediteranske flore.

Za ljubitelje izvorne mediteranske kuhinje uvijek se nae tek ulovljena riba, koja najbolje prija uz domaÊe vino i pjesmu u nekoj od konoba otoËnoga ribarskog mjesta.

Park prirode TelaπÊica i Nacionalni park Kornati labirint su od 150 otoka, otoËiÊa i hridi bijelih od sunca i soli, koji izranjaju iz tamnoplavog mora u najrazliËitijim oblicima i veliËinama, jedinstvena skupina otoka kakve nema na Sredozemlju. Tek uredno sazidani suhozidi, oaze maslinika i ribarska naselja odaju boravak Ëovjeka na tom prostoru.

Feπte Saljske uæance - tradicionalna puËka manifestacija u poËetku kolovoza s tradicijom dugom 41 godinu, koja se odvija u saljskoj luci. Vrhunac su dogaanja Trke tovarov i nastup TovareÊe muæike s originalnim glazbalima.

Iπka feπta - kraj srpnja/poËetak kolovoza s biranjem iπkog kralja, jedinstvenoga na naπem otoËju, prema obiËaju iz antiËkih vremena, povezanima s rimskom tradicijom bakanalija i saturnalija.

Procesija Gospi od sniga - 5. kolovoza, na dan Gospe od sniga, veÊ se gotovo pet stoljeÊa odræava procesija prilikom koje se Gospin kip morskim putem, u pratnji stotinjak brodova svih veliËina, nosi iz zavjetne crkvice u prolazu Ædrelac u Kukljicu na otoku Ugljanu.

Gastronomija OtoËka kuhinja ima sve odlike zdrave mediteranske kuhinje, vrlo je jednostavna, s ribom i 138

πkoljkama pripremljenima na razliËite naËine, najËeπÊe na leπo. Kao prilog posluæuje se domaÊe povrÊe, a sve je zaËinjeno veoma kvalitetnim maslinovim uljem.

Svjetionici Svjetionici su oduvijek bili putokazi pomorcima kroza svijet otoka. Na ovom ih podruËju ima desetak, brinu se za sigurnu plovidbu, a u posljednje vrijeme na nekima se od njih (Veli Rat, npr.) moæe provesti i godiπnji odmor.

Zanimljivosti - carica Marija Terezija na beËkome je dvoru dræala Ëipkaricu koja je za potrebe dvora izraivala paπku Ëipku - engleski je kralj Eduard VIII. s Wallis Simpson posjetio otok Molat na krstarenju Jadranom - u æbuku svjetionika Veli Rat umijeπano je 100.000 æumanaca da bi bila ËvrπÊa - na otoku Ugljanu viπe je od 200.000 stabala maslina n

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he amazing island world of Zadar is a region of undiscovered beauty, clear sea and intact nature. The islands of various shapes and sizes, inhabited and uninhabited stretch out in 4 rows parallel to the coast, which is known as Dalmatian type of coast. This area is ideal for all types of activities on sea and under the sea and your vessel will find a safe refuge in more than 50 ports and havens in organized anchorages or protected coves.

The interior of the islands can be best discovered by walking, climbing or mountain-biking while breathing the fresh scent of the rich Mediterranean flora.

Pag, Ugljan, Paπman, Dugi otok, Silba, Olib, Molat, Premuda, Ist, Iæ are only some of the more than 200 islands and islets in the Zadar archipelago.

TelaπÊica Nature Park and Kornati National Park are labyrinths of 150 islands, islets and rocks of various shapes and sizes, whitened by the sun and sea surrounded by a dark blue sea.

This is a genuine group of islands unique on the Mediterranean. Neat stone walls, oases of olive groves and fishermen’s settlements reveal the presence of man.

Celebrations Saljske uæance (Customs of Sali) − a traditional folk manifestation that takes place at the beginning of August in the port of Sali with a tradition that goes back 41 years. The peak of the event are Trke tovarov (donkey races) and the performance of TovareÊa muæika (donkey music) with original instruments.

Iπka feπta (Celebration of Iæ) − end of July/beginning of August with the election of the King of Iæ, a genuine event on our islands according to the ancient customs associated with the Roman tradition of bacchanalia and saturnalia.

Procession of Our Lady of the Snow- it has been taking place for almost 5 centuries on August 5th, feast of Our Lady of the Snow during which the statue of Our Lady is carried by sea, accompanied by hundred of boats from the small church in the Crossing of Ædrelac to the church in Kukljica on the island of Ugljan.

Gastronomy The island cuisine has all the distinctions of healthy Mediterranean cuisine, very simple, with fish and seashells prepared in various ways, most often leπo (boiled) accompanied with vegetables, all seasoned with homemade olive oil of best quality.

Lighthouses Lighthouses have always helped navigators in their voyages through the island world. In this are there are about ten of them. Their task is safe navigation and in recent times some of them are available for vacations (ex. lighthouse Veli Rat).

Interesting items - the Austrian Empress Mary Theresa had a lace maker at her court in Vienna who made Pag laces for the needs of the court - the English king Edward VIII, accompanied bx Wallis Simpson, visited the island of Molat during hic cruise of the Adriatic - 100.000 egg yolks were mixed into the mortar of the lighthouse Veli Rat to make it stronger - there are more than 200.000 olive trees on the island of Ugljan n

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redišnji dio Dalmacije od Marine na sjeveru do Gradca na jugu, koji se duboko uvukao okolnim planinama pod skute, s niskom otoka i desecima kilometara šljunčanih i pješčanih plaža, sa zelenim zaleđem koje oplemenjuju park prirode Biokovo i rijeke Jadro i Cetina, regija je duge i bogate turističke tradicije, povijesti i kulture.

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Split

kladan spoj prirodnih ljepota koje obogaćuje slojevito povijesno nasljeđe od antike do pučkog graditeljstva, pružit će Vam neslućene mogućnosti odmora, zabave, uživanja u toplini sunca, smiraju predvečerja i bučnim mediteranskim noćima.

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Sinjska alka

er, boravak u srednjoj Dalmaciji izbor je prostora koji kao ni jedan drugi, uz odmor u ekološki očuvanoj prirodi, na samo dvadesetak kilometara udaljenosti, nudi uživanje u razgledavanju dva grada pod zaštitom UNESCO-a, Splita i Trogira, ali i Salone, najvećeg arheološkog lokaliteta na Jadranskoj obali te niza manjih, slikovitih mjesta i gradova od kojih svaki skriva svoju zanimljivu i jedinstvenu povijest.

Stari Grad, ager Salona

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igdje kao u srednjoj Dalmaciji nećete moći imati istovremeno noge u kristalno čistom moru, tijelo na suncu, a glavu u sjeni borova koji se nadvijaju nad plažom.

tek desetak kilometara od užurbane priobalne vreve, u zelenoj oazi Dalmatinske zagore s daškom kontinenta, svoj odmor možete svakodnevno obogatiti uživanjem u jahanju, spuštanju niz pitome ali i divlje brzace Cetine, vožnji biciklom i brojnim aktivnostima koje pruža prostorusječen između vrleti planina i modrine mora.

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ko tražite nešto što je tom jedinstvenom turističkom prostoru zajedničko, onda je to svakako jednostavna i dobrodušna srdačnost domaćina, njihova vedra, miroljubiva i bučna narav, njihova nepatvorena želja da gostu podare sve najbolje što mogu.

Trogir

B

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ogatstvo je to koje odlazeći kući ne možete spremiti u svoj kovčeg, ali će Vam ono ispunjavati dušu sve do slijedećeg dolaska u srednju Dalmaciju.

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f the feeling of freedom with a touch of adventure provided to you by staying in a camp is the answer to your lost strength and brings you long awaited relaxation,

come to Central Dalmatia where your vacation in a spacious, well equipped, family-run mini-camp will be an unforgettable experience.

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his region is composed of a lace-like network of the coast and islands gently scattered across the crystal clear sea connecting its blueness with the azure

of the sky. In quiet coves away from the rush of the cities, thickly interwoven branches of pine trees will shelter your tents and campers offering you unexpected vacationing possibilities.

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ike nowhere else, you will stop here during your hikes or bicycle rides enchanted by the smell of the pines and medicinal herbs; in the quiet enriched

only by the sound of crickets. Only a bit further away, in the shade of an old stone house, you will be welcomed by hosts with a glass of wine. Here you will enjoy the beauty of the sun-bathed vineyards and be offered the pleasure of tasting seafood specialties.

W

hen you set off to the small nearby towns after enjoying the warm

clear sea, you will encounter the shadows of centuries preserved in cultural monuments which tell you the rich history of these parts.

A

t the end of the day, a breath of wind will bring freshness to your

temporary homes under the tree tops and you will surely wish to take a part of the beauty home with you.

But, even when you realise this is not possible, do not be sad, as Central Dalmatia will be waiting for you, year after year, and ever more beautiful...

info@dalmatia.hr

www.dalmatia.hr

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■ POZNATI U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU CELEBRITIES IN OUR AIRCRAFT

Fotografije/Photos Romeo IbriševiÊ

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ao dinamiËan i spretan struËnjak za putovanja te komunikativna i uspjeπna poslovna æena, Wanda S. Radetti, vlasnica i osnivaËica tvrtke VISITCROATIA.com - Tasteful Croatian Journeys, naπa je Ëesta putnica.

Tu πesterostruku dobitnicu nagrade Condè Nast Travelera Vrhunski svjetski specijalist za odrediπta za Hrvatsku (πto je svojevrsni Oscar putniËke industrije) u Hrvatsku Ëesto vraÊaju ne samo posao, nego i srce. Kaæemo vraÊaju, jer Wanda je roena ovdje. Æivotne su okolnosti natjerale njezinu obitelj da napusti njezin rodni grad Rijeku i preseli se u izbjegliËke logore u Italiji, ËekajuÊi moguÊnost odlaska u Ameriku. Obitelj je dobila dozvolu za useljenje u Sjedinjene AmeriËke Dræave kad je Wandin otac, po struci kuhar, sluËajno dobio ponudu za posao u restoranu u Chicagu, te se nadao da Êe ondje njegova obitelj poËeti novi æivot. Ali, njegova neoËekivana smrt mjesec dana prije nego πto je obitelj trebala otputovati, zadala je teæak udarac obiteljskom snu o odlasku u Ameriku. No to nije sprijeËilo Wandinu majku da smogne hrabrosti i snage kako bi ostvarila obiteljski san. Odjevena u crninu, skupila je djecu i poπla na put prepun neizvjesnosti, ali i ispunjen nadom, te je svoju obitelj dovela u Ameriku.

- Smjestili smo se u New Yorku, a majka je naπla posao u tvornici knjiga. Moj sedam godina stariji brat takoer je radio, a ja pohaala πkolu - prisjeÊa se Wanda. Uz engleski i talijanski, njezin materinski jezik, Wanda govori i πpanjolski te poneπto hrvatski. Poznavanje jezika i ljubav prema njima bez sumnje su joj uvelike koristili ne samo u poslu, nego i u njezinome velikome osobnome putniËkom iskustvu.

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- Æivot je oblik putovanja, on je put. Zato volim svoj posao, jer omoguÊuje mi s drugima podijeliti regiju svijeta koju najviπe volim, nudeÊi putnicima individualizirana iskustva koja obogaÊuju æivot - naglaπava Wanda te detaljnije objaπnjava razliku izmeu turista i putnika.

- Putnici toËno znaju zaπto æele putovati u neko odrediπe, πto ondje æele doæivjeti i πto se nadaju iskusiti. Dobro obrazovan, sofisticiran, nezasitno radoznao, putnik se priprema za putovanje doznajuÊi πto viπe moæe o destinaciji, te uæiva u oËekivanju otkriÊa. Putnici prouËavaju zemljopis, povijest, knjiæevnost i politiËke utjecaje odrediπta. Uæivaju u svim izrazima umjetnosti, u lokalnoj kuhinji i vinima.

Viπe od svega æele upoznati i povezati se s ljudima te nauËiti poneπto o njihovim obiËajima i njihovim priËama. Putnik nastoji uspostaviti osobnu povezanost te trajne odnose, jer vidi svoj odraz u oËima svojih novih prijatelja. Putnik cijeni ljepotu prirode, poπtuje ju i ukljuËen je u oËuvanje netaknutog okoliπa.

Wanda za nas stvara romantiËnu sliku: - Na primjer, putnici prepoznaju razliku izmeu jutarnjeg lahora koji njeæno miluje njihove obraze, te blagog vjetra koji donosi daπak svjeæine u sparna kasna ljetna popodneva na obali Jadrana. Takoer, znaju i naziv vjetra πto ih zapahuje tog trenutka.

Wanda i njezin visokoprofesionalni tim pomno rade kako bi osigurali da njihovi putnici dobivaju profesionalnu uslugu dok uæivaju u prekrasnim trenucima koje Êe zauvijek pamtiti. Njezina tvrtka, VISITCROATIA.com Tasteful Croatian Journeys u praksi potvruje latinsku poslovicu nomen est omen, tj. ime je znak. Oni koji putuju u Hrvatsku s Wandom ne samo da Êe dobro upoznati ljepote naπe zemlje, nego Êe i probuditi svoja osjetila dok uæivaju u razliËitim okusima, bojama, mirisima i melodijama. Na posebnom putovanju za male skupine, Annual Tasteful Croatian Journeys’ Spring Processions of Korcula™, putnici imaju priliku doslovno uroniti u æivote hrvatskih obitelji koje su cijenjeni Ëlanovi triju drevnih bratovπtina u gradu KorËuli: Svih Svetih iz 1301. godine, Sv. Roka iz 1575. te Blaæene Djevice Marije od Utjehe iz 1603. godine. Putnika posvajaju obitelji tijekom Velikog tjedna, i on se pridruæuje obiteljskim tradicijama i ritualima, pomaæuÊi pri pripremi hrane, kuhanju, peËenju i blagoslovu jela, te sudjeluje u kompleksnim procesijama koje organiziraju bratovπtine. To je jedinstvena prilika Ëiji je vrhunac obiteljsko slavljenje ponovnog

roenja i obnove proljeÊa za uskrsnim stolom u nedjelju.

Kao odraz naËina na koji ju je majka dovela u SAD, Ëak i prije nego πto je rat potpuno zavrπio u svim dijelovima Hrvatske, Wanda je 1995. imala hrabrosti osmisliti i organizirati putovanja Tasteful Istra and Kvarner Journeys™. Aranæman je organiziran za Æensku udrugu Histra u New Yorku. Bio je to put samootkriÊa za sudionice, te uistinu emocionalan i sentimentom nabijen povratak u rodni kraj. Aranæman je bio vrlo uspjeπan te je potraænja za njim i dalje velika.

Godine 1995. Wandin je san o organiziranju luksuznih putniËkih iskustava u Hrvatskoj primio pohvale od hrvatskog tiska, koji ga je nazvao avangardnim.

- Naravno, trebalo je obaviti mnogo posla, i bio je to nevjerojatan izazov koji je postigao uspjeh, πto mi donose najveÊe zadovoljstvo.

A sada je Hrvatska odrediπte koje nudi putovanja s pet zvjezdica.

Wanda danas organizira luksuzna iskustva za sofisticirane i zahtjevne Ëlanove sve duæe liste putnika koji dolaze iz svih dijelova svijeta. Sa svojim putnicima Wanda dijeli teænju prema najviπim standardima kvalitete i vrijednosti, a to i ostvaruje πto se svega tiËe. Vjeruje da dobro obavljen posao ovisi o osjetljivosti na detalje i nijanse. A rezultati su neosporivi i, kako Wanda kaæe, prekrasno je raditi s ljudima i donijeti osmijeh na njihova lica, to je najveÊe zadovoljstvo koje dobijemo nakon napornog rada.

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Postani moj facebook frend Become my facebook friend www.facebook.com/paprenjak www.paprenjak.hr

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Wanda uvijek nastoji obogatiti svoju ponudu novim projektima koji su istinski odraz njezina duha i u skladu s njezinim æivotnim putovanjem.

Za Rijeku, grad svog roenja i svoj emocionalni dom, snuje gradnju Mediteranskoga iseljeniËkog spomenika Ëasti, koji bi bio odraz Zida Ëasti na Otoku Ellis u New Yorku, gdje su zabiljeæena imena useljenika koji su prispjeli u Sjedinjene Dræave. Taj spomenik svake godine privuËe milijune posjetitelja iz svih dijelova Sjedinjenih Dræava i svijeta u New York. Smisao Mediteranskoga iseljeniËkog spomenika Ëasti bio bi obrnut, jer na njemu bi bila navedena imena hrabrih ljudi koji su napustili svoje domove, obitelji i prijatelje kako bi naπli svoje mjesto u svijetu − i on bi doveo svijet u Hrvatsku.

- Granice su zamiπljene kao mjesto gdje se moæemo sresti, a ne razilaziti. Kao djetetu granica, trebao mi je cijeli æivot da shvatim kako je blagoslov πto sam roena u regiji gdje se sreÊu mnoge europske kulture, tvoreÊi prekrasan italski, germanski i slavenski mozaik umjetnosti, povijesti, arhitekture, glazbe i kuhinje. Moj me æivot u Americi joπ viπe obogatio. Ja sam Hrvatica, Talijanka i Amerikanka.

U skladu sa svojom misijom da zdruæuje ljude, sada radi oko projekta pod nazivom Dining Beyond Borders™, butik putniËkom iskustvu koje istraæuje gastronomiju Hrvatske, Italije i Slovenije. Nadalje, projekt Êe predstaviti zajedniËku kulturu, povijest i baπtinu πto je dijele te tri susjedne zemlje koje su nekad bile dijelom Austro-Ugarskoga Carstva.

- Ljudi se vole vratiti svojim korijenima, te πto dulje æive, to su skloniji gledati unatrag. Kako godine prolaze, postaje nam sve vaænije znati tko smo i odakle dolazimo. Sve viπe klijenata Ëiji su korijeni u Hrvatskoj i okolnim regijama angaæira nas kako bismo za njih kreirali putniËki aranæman Tasteful Heritage and Culture Journeys™. Nakon zavrπetka putovanja, uæitak mi je Ëuti kad govore o svojim ispunjujuÊim emocionalnim reakcijama, o obogaÊenju æivota i πirenju srca i uma. Jer, Hrvatska je prelijep dragulj koji blijeπti razliËitim bojama kad se gleda iz razliËitih kutova − naglaπava Wanda.

- Moja pustolovna i hrabra hrvatska majka kaæe: Putovati je lijepo, i treba putovati u æivotu, ali je najljepπe kad imate dom u koji se moæete vratiti.

Wanda pak zakljuËuje: - Volim putovati i pomoÊi ljudima da putuju.

Kad se napokon vratim u svoju domovinu, vraÊam se u Rijeku… u Hrvatsku. n

A

dynamic and agile travel professional and communicative, successful business woman, Wanda S. Radetti, owner and founder of the company VISITCROATIA.com - Taste-

ful Croatian Journeys, is one of our frequent passengers. The six-time Condè Nast Traveler Awardee as World Top Destination Specialist for Croatia (think the Oscars of the travel industry) has repeatedly been drawn back to Croatia, not only due to her work, but also her heart. We say back to Croatia because Wanda was born here. Circumstances of life compelled the family to leave her birth town of Rijeka and move to the refugee camps of Italy while waiting to migrate to America. Permission to immigrate to the United States of America was given to the family when Wanda’s father, a professional chef, was fortuitously offered a job in a restaurant in Chicago where he hoped to bring his family to start a new life.

However, his sudden and unexpected death one month before the family’s scheduled departure dealt a staggering blow to the family’s dream of going to America. That did not stop Wanda’s mother from mustering up the courage and strength to follow through with the realization of the family’s dream. Dressed in the black of mourning, she gathered her children and embarked upon a voyage fraught with uncertainty, but filled with hope as she brought her family to America.

- We settled in New York City and my mother got a job in a book factory. My brother, who is seven years older than I am, also worked while I went to school, remembers Wanda.

In addition to English and Italian, her mother tongue, Wanda also speaks Spanish and a bit of Croatian. Her knowledge and love of languages has, undoubtedly, been very useful not only in her work, but also in her extensive personal travel experience.

- Living is a form of travel; it is a journey. That is why I love my work as it permits me to share the region of the world that I love most by offering customized, life-enriching experiences to travellers, Wanda emphasizes, and goes on to more precisely explain the difference between a tourist and a traveller.

- Travellers know exactly why they want to travel to a destination, what they wish to experience there and hope to discover. Well educated, sophisticated, insatiably curious the traveller prepares for the journey by learning as much as possible about the destination and revels in the anticipation of discovery.

They study the destination’s geography, history, literature and political influences. They take pleasure in all the expressions of art, savour the local cuisine and enjoy the wines.

Most of all, they want to meet and connect with the people and learn about their customs and their stories. A traveller endeavours to personally connect and establish long-lasting relationships as they see the refl ection of

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themselves in the eyes of their new friends.

A traveller appreciates the beauty of nature, respects it and is engaged in the preservation of a pristine environment.

Wanda creates a romantic image for us, Travellers, for instance, recognize the difference between the morning breeze that gently caresses their cheek, and the mild wind which brings a bit of freshness to the late afternoon of a hot summer day on the Adriatic Coast.

And, they know the name of the wind that envelops them in that particular moment.

Wanda and her highly professional team work meticulously to ensure that all her travellers are professionally served while experiencing beautiful moments that they will forever cherish. Her company, VISITCROATIA.com - Tasteful Croatian Journeys, in practice confirms the Latin saying nomen est omen, i.e. a name is a sign. Those who travel to Croatia with Wanda will not only become well acquainted with the beauties of our country, but will also reawaken their senses as they take in the various flavours, colours, scents, and melodies. On a particular small group journey, the Annual Tasteful Croatian Journeys’ Spring Processions of Korcula™, the travellers have a chance to literally immerse themselves into the lives of the Croatian families that are the venerated members of the three ancient fraternities in the town of Korcula: All Saints from 1301, St. Rok from 1575, and Our Lady of Comfort from 1603. The traveller is adopted by the families during Holy Week and will join in the family’s traditions and rituals, help with the foraging, cooking, baking, and blessing of the food, and participate in the fraternities’ elaborate processions. It is a once in a lifetime opportunity that culminates with the family’s celebration of rebirth and the renewal of spring at the Easter table on Sunday.

In reflection of the way her mother brought her to the U.S., even before the war was completely over in certain parts of Croatia, Wanda had the courage to design and organize Tasteful Istra and Kvarner Journeys™ in 1995. The tour was organized for the Histra Association for Women in New York. It was a journey of self-discovery for the participants and a truly emotional and sentimental return to the land of their birth. The tour was a wonderful success and remains in great demand.

In 1995 Wanda’s dream to organize luxurious travel experiences to Croatia was hailed as avant-garde by the Croatian press. There was, of course, a lot of work to be done, and it was an incredible challenge that has become a most satisfactory accomplishment and success. And now, Croatia is a destination that delivers five-star travel.

Presently, she arranges luxury experiences for the sophisticated and demanding members of a growing list of travellers that come from every part of the world. Wanda shares a keenness with her travellers for the highest standards of quality and value, and delivers in all capacities. She believes that a job well done is reliant upon sensitivity to detail and nuance. And the results are undeniable, as Wanda states, It’s wonderful to work with people and bring a smile to their faces − it is the greatest satisfaction we can get after much hard work.

Wanda is always striving to enrich her offerings with new projects that are true to her spirit and coherent with her life journey. For Rijeka, the city of her birth and her emotional home, she dreams of building the Mediterranean Migration Monument of Honour, a reflection of the Honor Wall on Ellis Island in New York City which records the names of immigrants who arrived in the United States.

The monument brings millions of visitors every year to New York City from all parts of the United States and the world. The design for the Mediterranean Migration Monument of Honour would be the reverse, as it would list the names of the courageous people that left their homes, families and friends in order to find their place in the world - and it will bring the world to Croatia.

- Borders are meant to be a place where we can meet, not where we separate. As a child of borders, it took me a lifetime to understand that I was blessed to be born in a region where many European cultures converge resulting in a beautiful Italic, Germanic and Slavic mosaic of art, history, architecture, music and cuisine.

My life in America has further enriched me - I am a Croatian Italian American.

In line with her mission to bring people together, she is currently working on a project called Dining Beyond Borders™, a boutique travel experience exploring the gastronomy and wines of Croatia, Italy and Slovenia. Moreover, the project would present the common

culture, history and heritage shared by these three neighbouring countries that used to be part of the Austrian-Hungarian Monarchy.

- People like returning to their roots and the more they live the more inclined they are to look back. As years go by, it becomes increasingly more important to us to know who we are and where we came from. More and more clients with ancestral roots in Croatia and surrounding regions engage us to create their Tasteful Heritage and Culture Journeys™.

Upon completion of their journeys, I delight in learning about their fulfilling emotional reactions, the life enrichment, and the expansion of their hearts and minds. Croatia is a beautiful jewel which gives off different flashes of brilliant colour when looked at from different angles. As my adventurous and courageous Croatian mother would often say, Travel is wonderful, and one must travel in life, but it is most wonderful when there is a home to return to.

Wanda concludes, I love to travel and to help people travel. When to my ‘domovina’ I eventually return, I return to Rijeka... to Croatia. n

Oni koji putuju u Hrvatsku s Wandom ne samo da Êe dobro upoznati ljepote naπe zemlje, nego Êe i probuditi svoja osjetila dok uæivaju u razliËitim okusima, bojama, mirisima i melodijama.

Those who travel to Croatia with Wanda will not only become well acquainted with the beauties of our country, but will also reawaken their senses as they take in the various flavours, colours, scents, and melodies.

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OŽUJAK/MARCH Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 15.3.-5.4.

ZGRAF 11 Meunarodnu izloæbu grafiËkog dizajna i vizualnih komunikacija moæete posjetiti u Domu likovnih umjetnika u MeπtroviÊevu paviljonu u Zagrebu.

ObuhvaÊa odabrane recentne radove s podruËja grafiËkog dizajna i vizualnih komunikacija, te izloæbu radova koji problematiziraju predoËenu temu./ The international exhibition of graphic design and visual communications can be visited at the Home of the Croatian Association of Artists in MeπtroviÊ Pavilion in Zagreb. It includes recent selected works in the area of graphic design and visual communication, as well as an exhibition of works that examine the main theme.

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PLACE2GO Meunarodni je sajam turizma zamiπljen kao predstavljanje Hrvatske svijetu i svijeta Hrvatskoj preko niz prezentacija, radionica i predavanja, a odræava se u zagrebaËkome BoÊarskom domu./An international tourism fair which is designed as a presentation of Croatia to the world and the world to Croatia through a series of promotions, workshops and lectures, and it is being held at BoÊarski Dom in Zagreb. www.place2go.org

TRAVANJ/APRIL Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 1.4., Zagreb-»azma OD KAPTOLA DO KAPTOLA/ FROM CHAPTER TO CHAPTER Sudionici meunarodnog atletskog maratona ispituju svoju izdræljivost na stazi duæoj od 60 km, od zagrebaËke katedrale do Ëazmanske crkve./Participants in this international athletic marathon test their endurance on a course longer than 60 km from Zagreb Cathedral to »azma Church. www.cazma.hr 13.-15.4 ZAGREB WINE GOURMET WEEKEND 2012 Festival vina i hrane postao je jedno od najvaænijih dogaanja enogastro-

nomije ne samo u Hrvata, nego i u ovom dijelu Europe, a odræava se u Gliptoteci HAZU./This wine and food festival has become one of the most important enogastronomy events, not only in Croatia but also in this part of Europe, and it is being held at the Glipoteka of the Croatian Academy of Arts and Sciences. http://www.zagrebwinegourmet.com 14.4.-29.9.

ZAGREBA»KI VREMEPLOV/ ZAGREB TIME MACHINE Promenadni koncerti na Zrinjevcu i u Maksimiru, glazba u TkalËiÊevoj i na Gornjem gradu, likovi iz proπlosti, kumice s Dolca i folklorni nastupi doËarat Êe vam duh grada i toplinu njegovih stanovnika, baπ kao nekad…/Promenade concerts at Zrinjevac and Maksimir, music on TkalËiÊeva and in the Upper Town, characters from the past, the kumice (rural ladies) from Dolac and folklore performances will conjure up the spirit of the city and warmth of its inhabitants, just as long ago... www.zagreb.touristinfo.hr 25.4.-16.5., Zagreb 14. FESTIVAL SV. MARKA/ 14th FESTIVAL OF ST. MARK Organizatori festivala i za ovu godinu najavljuju nastupe domaÊih i gostujuÊih solista i ansambala, Ëije Êe vas izvedbe ostaviti bez daha./ Organizers of this year’s festival have announced performances by local and visiting soloists and ensembles whose performances will leave you breathless. www.festivalsvmarka.hr 27.4.

ZAGREBA»KI SOLISTI U HRVATSKOME GLAZBENOM ZAVODU/ZAGREB SOLOISTS AT THE CROATIAN MUSIC INSTITUTE M. Kelemen: Pet eseja za gudaËe/ Five essays for strings F. ParaÊ: Koncert za violinu, violu i gudaËe/Concerto for violin, viola and strings Solisti/Soloists: Borivoj Mar tiniÊ JerËiÊ − violina/violin Aleksandar Miloπev − viola L. JanáËek: Suita za gudaËe/Suite for strings B. Bartók: Rumunjski plesovi za gudaËe/Romanian dances for strings www.zg-solisti.hr

29.4.

9. FESTIVAL PLIVANJA/ 9 th SWIMMING FESTIVAL Meunarodno plivaËko natjecanje odræava se na bazenu Utrina u Novom Zagrebu. Natjecateljske su kategorije - mlae juniorke, kadeti, mlai kadeti i poËetnici./The international swimming competition will be held at the pool in Utrina in Novi Zagreb. The competitive categories are: young juniors, cadets, young cadets and beginners. www.pkdubrava.hr 1.4. i/and 8.5., Ludbreg DAN CENTRA SVIJETA/DAY OF THE CENTRE OF THE WORLD Tu manifestaciju Ludbreæani iz godine u godinu upriliËuju na Dan grada.

Dogaaj je vezan uz vjerovanje kako se upravo grad Ludbreg nalazi u centru svijeta./The people of Ludbreg celebrate this event every year on the day of the city. The event is related to the belief that the city of Ludbreg is located exactly in the centre of the world. www.tz-ludbreg.hr 23.-29.4., Velika Gorica TUROPOLJSKO JURJEVO/ST. GEORGE’S DAY IN TUROPOLJE D i l j e m ko n ti n e n t a l n e H r vats ke prireuju se 23. travnja sveËanosti temeljene na pradavnim narodnim obiËajima. Osobito su dojmljivi tradicionalni Jurjevski krijesovi./Throughout continental Croatia festivities are organized based on ancient folk customs on 23 April. Particularly impressive are the traditional St. George’s Bonfires. www.tzvg.hr Slavonija i Baranja/Slavonija and Baranja 15.-20.4., Slavonski Brod U SVIJETU BAJKI IVANE BRLIΔ MAÆURANIΔ/IN THE WORLD OF FAIRYTALES OF IVANA BRLIΔ MAÆURANIΔ Broani svake godine obiljeæavaju roendan spisateljice Ivane BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ i predaju se razigranoj djeËjoj maπti./Every year the townspeople of Slavonski Brod celebrate the birthday of writer Ivana BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ and abandon themselves to the playful imagination of children. www.usvijetubajki.org

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Pula i okolica/Pula and surroundings 31.4.-15.9., Faæana MALA RIBARSKA AKADEMIJA SARDELA/SMALL FISHING ACADEMY SARDINE ProlazeÊi Cestom sardela, upoznat Êete po restoranima i konobama u Faæani mnoge naËine pripreme srdele. Tijekom svibnja moæete sudjelovati i u faæanskoj ©koli soljenja sardele./ On a bar and restaurant hopping tour of Sardine Road in Faæana you will get to know the many ways to prepare sardines. During the month of May you can participate in the Faæana School of Salting Sardines. www.istria-fazana.com Zadar i okolica/Zadar and surroundings 27.- 29.4., Sv. Filip i Jakov DANI CVIJEΔA/FLOWER DAYS Travanj je u Sv. Filipu i Jakovu u znaku cvijeÊa. Festival cvijeÊa zadarske æupanije omoguÊuje vam sudjelovanje na ekološkim radionicama, prezentacijama, prigodnim savjetovanjima i predavanjima, natjecanjima aranæera, izloæbama i modnim revijama./In April, everything in Sv. Filip i Jakov is about fl owers. The Zadar County Flower Festival allows you to participate in eco-workshops, presentations, advisory sessions and lectures, competitions of flower arrangers, exhibitions and fashion shows. www.sv-filipjakov.hr

Split i okolica/Split and surroundings 5.4., Jelsa PROCESIJA ZA KRIÆEM/ FOLLOWING THE CROSS OdluËite li Uskrs proslaviti na otoku Hvaru, sudjelovat Êete u proslavi onako kako se taj blagdan slavi punih pet stoljeÊa./If you decide to spend Easter on the island Hvar, you will participate in its celebration the same way it has been celebrated for five centuries. www.tzjelsa.hr 25.4.-15.5., Split SUDAMJA 2012. NEKA RIVA U CVIΔU PLIVA/SUDAMJA 2012 − LET THE WATERFRONT SWIM IN FLOWERS Zaπtitnik grada Splita sv. Duje veÊ se dugi niz godina svetkuje i obiljeæava ujedno kao dan grada − 7.svibnja.

U tom razdoblju Split vam nudi niz kulturnih, zabavnih i sportskih manifestacija./For many years already, the patron saint of Split, St. Domnius, has been celebrated and marked on the same day as the day of the city, on 7 May. During this period, Split offers many cultural, entertainment and sporting events. www.tzjelsa.hr

I. Pervan

Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 16.-28.4., Mali Loπinj 6. FE©TA LO©INJSKE KUHINJE/ 6 th LO©INJ CUISINE FESTIVAL Predstavljanje gastronomske ponude otoka Loπinja i izvorne otoËke kuhinje.

Sudjeluje dvadesetak loπinjskih ugostitelja, koji nude dva specijaliteta o temi Loπinjskim jedrima oko svijeta./ This is a promotion of the gastronomic offer of the island of Loπinj and the original island cuisine. The participants include twenty Loπinj restaurateurs who offer two specialties based on the theme Around the World with Loπinj Sails. www.tz-malilosinj.hr 28.-29.4., Lokve 36. ÆABARSKA NOΔ/36 th FROG NIGHT Uz raznoliku gastronomsku ponudu æabljih jela, vrhunac je veËeri poznato natjecanje u æabljim skokovima./ Along with a diverse gastronomic offer of frog dishes, the highlight of the evening is the famous frog jumping contest. www.tz-lokve.hr

SVIBANJ/MAY Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 5.5. − 2.9.

LJETO NA STROSSU/SUMMER ON STROSS Na jednome od najromantiËnijih dijelova zagrebaËkoga Gornjega grada − na Strossmayerovu πetaliπtu - odræava se manifestacija u sklopu koje se svakoga dana posjetiteljima nude besplatni koncerti etno, jazz, soul, rock i drugih glazbenika. Ondje se nalazi i likovna kolonija i druge zanimljivosti./On one of the most romantic parts of Zagreb’s Upper Town − Strossmayer’s Promenade − an event will take place at which every day visitors will be offered free concerts by ethno, jazz, soul, rock and other musicians. There will also be an art colony and other entertainment. www.ljetonastrossu.com

9.-12.5.

CROTOUR 2012.

Peti meunarodni sajam turizma mjesto je susreta inozemnih turoperatora s domaÊom ponudom turistiËkih usluga i kapaciteta./The 5th International Tourism Fair is the place where foreign tour operators learn about the domestic offer of tourist services and capacity. www.zv.hr 26.5.

OTVORENO PRVENSTVO GRADA ZAGREBA I 11.

MEMORIJALNA UTRKA MATIJE LJUBEKA/ZAGREB OPEN CHAMPIONSHIP AND THE 11th MEMORIAL RACE MATIJA LJUBEK Svake godine na Sportsko-rekreacijskom centru Jarun odræava se memorijalna utrka Matije Ljubeka na 1000 m u kanuu jednokleku. Ta je disciplina i jedna od najzanimljivijih, a nagrade su vrijedne./The Memorial Race Matija Ljubek, a 1000 metre single kneeling canoe race, is held each year at the Jarun Sports and Recreation Centre. This discipline is one of the most attractive and the prizes are quite valuable. www.kkkmatijaljubek.hr 29.5.-3.6.

ANIMAFEST ZAGREB 2012.

Svjetski festival animiranog filma posveÊen je kratkometra ænome animiranom filmu u trajanju do 30 minuta./ The World Festival of Animated Film is dedicated to the short animated film lasting up to 30 minutes. www.animafest.hr 29. 5.

ZAGREBA»KI SOLISTI U HRVATSKOME GLAZBENOM ZAVODU/ZAGREB SOLOISTS AT THE CROATIAN MUSIC INSTITUTE S. Horvat: Concertino za gudaËe/ Concertino for strings M. Giuliani: Koncert za gitaru i gudaËe u A-duru, op. 30/Concerto for guitar and strings in A major, op. 30 Solist: Ana VidoviÊ - gitara A.Dvorˇak: Serenada za gudaËe u E-duru, op. 22/Serenade for strings in E major, op. 22 www.zg-solisti.hr 30.5.-3.6.

FLORAART Na zagrebaËkom jezeru Bundek odræava se izloæba cvijeÊa Floraart, na kojoj vas oËekuju bezbrojne kombinacije boja i opojni mirisi raznolikoga i zanimljivo dekoriranog cvijeÊa./ Zagreb’s Bundek Lake will be the location of the flower exhibition Floraart; look forward to countless combina-

tions of colours and scents of diverse and interesting flower decorations. www.floraart.net

31.5.-10.6.

CEST IS D’BEST Ovaj festival pretvara ulice zagrebaËkog središta u vedri i optimistiËni svijet cirkusa i uliËnog teatra./ This festival transforms the streets of Zagreb’s centre into a cheerful and optimistic world of circus and street theatre. www.cestisdbest.com 18.-20.5., Sveti Ivan Zelina ME–UNARODNI VITE©KI TURNIR SVETE HELENE/ INTERNATIONAL KNIGHTS’ TOURNAMENT SVETA HELENA Na ovome turniru ne morate biti samo promatraË viteπkih borbi, okuπajte se i vi u gaanju lukom i strijelom, provezite se koËijom ili jaπite./At this tournament you do not have to be only an observer of knightly combat, but rather you can try your hand at archery, take a ride in a carriage or ride a horse. www.tz-zelina.hr www.vitezovi-zelingradski.hr 25.5., 1. i/and 2.6., Veliki Grevac LOVRAKOVI DANI KULTURE/ LOVRAK DAYS OF CULTURE Manifestacija je posveÊena uglavnom djeci, kojoj je pisac Mate Lovrak posvetio svoja djela./The event is devoted mainly to children to whom the writer Mate Lovrak dedicated his work. www.turizam-cazmamoslavina.com.hr www.tzbbz.hr 25.5.-3.6., Meimurska vinska cesta/Meimurje Wine Road URBANOVO − DANI VINA U ÆUPANIJI ZRINSKIH/ URBANOVO − DAYS OF WINE IN THE COUNTY OF ZRINSKI U vinskim kuπaonicama na Meimurskoj vinskoj cesti moæete uæivati u priznatim vinima i tradicionalnim meimurskim kulinarskim specijalitetima./You can enjoy the renowned wines and traditional culinary specialties of Meimurje in the wine tasting rooms along the Meimurje Wine Road. www.tic-strigova.hr

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Karlovac i okolica/Karlovac and surroundings 16.5.-3.6., Dubovac SAJAM VLASTELINSTVA/ MEDIEVAL FAIR Dubovac je æivio burnim trgovaËkim æivotom davno prije nego πto je Karlovac utemeljen, pa stoga stanovnici toga kraja prireuju veliki sajam na kojemu Êete se upoznati sa srednjovjekovnim obiËajima, zanatima, oruæjem, igrama i jelima./Dubovac had been a bustling trade centre long before Karlovac was founded.

Therefore, the residents of the area organize a big fair where you will become familiar with medieval customs, crafts, weapons, games and food. www.karlovac-touristinfo.hr Slavonija i Baranja/Slavonija and Baranja 11. i/and 12.5., Vukovar FESTIVAL DUHOVNE GLAZBE BONOFEST/FESTIVAL OF SPIRITUAL MUSIC - BONOFEST Na ovom festivalu duhovne glazbe predstavljaju se glazbenici i potiËu tekstopisci i skladatelji na pisanje novih duhovnih skladbi./The aim of the festival of spiritual music is to hear musicians perform and to encourage songwriters and composers to write new spiritual songs. www.filipjakov-vu.com 27.5.-3.6., Orahovica ORAHOVA»KO PROLJEΔE/ SPRING IN ORAHOVICA OËekuju vas sportska natjecanja u malom nogometu, turnir u boÊanju, kazaliπne predstave, nastupi folklornih skupina i razliËiti koncerti./You can expect to enjoy sports competitions in indoor soccer, a bowling tournament, theatre performances, folklore group shows and various concerts. www.orahovica.hr 28.-29.5., Poæega HRVATSKI FESTIVAL JEDNOMINUTNIH FILMOVA/ CROATIAN FESTIVAL OF ONE MINUTE FILMS Zbirku filmova svih æanrova, tematika i poruka, Ëija je jedina zajedniËka nit jednominutno trajanje, pogledajte na ovom festivalu kojemu posljednjih godina raste ugled./At this festival, which in recent years has had a growing reputation, you will see a collection of movies of all genres, themes and messages, whose only common thread is a length of one minute. www.crominute.hr svibanj/May, Kutjevo PUTOVIMA TRENKOVIH PANDURA/ON THE TRAIL OF THE TRENK PANDOURS Gradom prolazi sveËana povorka povijesnih postrojba, puhaËke glazbe i razliËitih udruga, a pred dvorcem 148

Kutjevo priprema se kazaliπna predstava koja Êe pribliæiti vrijeme Marije Terezije./A festive parade passes through the city with historical units, brass music and various associations, while a theatrical performance that will bring back the time of Maria Theresa takes place in front of the castle in Kutjevo. www.tz-kutjevo.com Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 1.5.-31.8., Kastav KASTAFSKO KULTURNO LJETO/ KASTAV CULTURAL SUMMER Predstave, koncerti domaÊih i inozemnih glazbenika te razliËite izloæbe pridonose romantiËnom ugoaju kojim to dogaanje πarmira svoje goste./Performances, concerts of local and international musicians, and various exhibitions enhance the romantic atmosphere with which this event charms its guests. www.kkl.hr 3.-11.5., Rijeka ME–UNARODNI FESTIVAL MALIH SCENA/INTERNATIONAL SMALL SCENE THEATRE FESTIVAL Taj rijeËki festival omiljeno je okupljaliπte europskih kazaliπtaraca koji njeguju nekonvencionalan pristup scenskom razmiπljanju./This Rijeka festival is a favourite gathering place for European theatre enthusiasts who foster an unconventional approach to theatrical thinking. www.theatrefestival-rijeka.hr 27.5., PoreË WINE DAY − DAN OTVORENIH VINSKIH PODRUMA U ISTRI/ WINE DAY − OPEN WINE CELLARS DAY IN ISTRIA Posljednje nedjelje u svibnju obiljeæava se svjetski Dan vina, a od 1999. godine obiljeæavaju ga i istarski vinari.

Stoga doite toga dana u neki od istarskih vinskih podruma./The last Sunday in May marks World Wine Day, and since 1999 it has also been celebrated by the Istrian winemakers. Therefore, on this day come visit some of the Istrian wine cellars. www.istra.hr./www.istra.com Zadar i okolica/ Zadar and surroundings 5.5. i/and 5.8., Nin HODO»A©ΔE NA BLAGDAN GOSPE OD ZE»EVA/ PILGRIMAGE ON THE DAY OF OUR LADY OF ZE»EVO Na dan ukazanja, 5. svibnja, utemeljen je blagdan Gospe od ZeËeva.

Vjernici iz razliËitih krajeva dolaze na otoËiÊ ZeËevo u srcu Ninske biskupije i hodoËaste Blaæenoj Djevici Mariji zbog potvrenih Ëudotvornih

dogaanja koja su se zbila tijekom proteklih pet stoljeÊa./The Feast of Our Lady of ZeËevo takes place on the day of the apparition, 5 May. The faithful come from all different regions to the islet of ZeËevo in the heart of the Nin diocese and go on a pilgrimage to the Blessed Virgin Mary because of the miraculous events that have occurred during the past five hundred years. www.nin.hr ©ibenik i okolica/Šibenik and surroundings 1. i/and 2. 5., Skradin EKO−ETNO SAJAM/ ECO−ETHNO FAIR Posjetite skradinski eko-etno sajam na kojemu moæete nauËiti sve πto ste htjeli znati o kulturi i povijesti toga kraja./Visit Skradin’s Eco-Ethno Fair where you can learn everything you have wanted to know about the culture and history of this region. www.skradin.hr Split i okolica/Split and surroundings 3.-7.5., Hvar DANI HVARSKOG KAZALI©TA/ DAYS OF THE HVAR THEATRE Mnoge predstave prikazuju se na pozornici staroga hvarskog kazaliπta i na drugim lokacijama u gradu, a sve su preradbe tekstova hrvatskih knjiæevnika./Numerous plays, all of them stage adaptations of texts by Croatian writers, are presented on the stage of the old Hvar Theatre and other locations in town. www.tzhvar.hr 15.5.-15.10., Hvar HVARSKE LJETNE PRIREDBE/ HVAR SUMMER FESTIVAL Grad Hvar domaÊin je tijekom ljetnih mjeseci mnogim kazaliπnim skupinama, glazbenicima i folklornim sastavima iz Hrvatske i inozemstva./During the summer months the town of Hvar host numerous theatre groups, musicians and folk ensembles from Croatia and abroad. www.tzhvar.hr 21.-27.5., Makarska MAFEST 2012.

Posjetite meunarodni festival stripa, jedan od najznaËajnijih kulturnih dogaanja u Makarskoj./Visit the International Comic Strip Festival, one of the most important cultural events in Makarska. www.mastripfest.com

MOONLIGHT FELL ON THE NERETVA RIVER U MetkoviÊu se okupljaju folklorne skupine iz cijele Hrvatske i inozemstva te pjesmom i plesom skladaju odu Mjesecu nad voljenom rijekom Neretvom./Folklore groups gather in MetkoviÊ from all over Croatia and from abroad, and with singing and dancing they compose an ode to the moon over their beloved Neretva River. www.neretva.info www.metkovic.hr

LIPANJ/JUNE Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 7. i 8.6.

ROKAJ FEST 2012.

ZagrebaËki velesajam/Zagreb Fair Grounds Slayer, Gojira, Mastodon, TBF, Lagwagon, Enter Shikari… www.rokajfest.com 11.6., Gornja Stubica VITE©KI TURNIR − SREDNJI VIJEK U HRVATSKOM ZAGORJU/ KNIGHTS’ TOURNAMENT − MIDDLE AGES IN HRVATSKO ZAGORJE Posjetite Muzej seljaËkih buna u Gornjoj Stubici i nauËite viπe o herojskome srednjem vijeku./Visit the Peasants’ Revolt Museum in Gornja Stubica and learn more about the heroic Middle Ages. www.viteski-turnir.com 19.6., Sisak SISA»KI VITE©KI TURNIR/ SISAK KNIGHTS’ TOURNAMENT Tim se turnirom slavi kljuËan trenutak iz povijesti Siska kad su sisaËki hrabri vitezovi zaustavili nadmoÊnu tursku vojsku u njezinu pohodu prema zapadu./This tournament celebrates a key moment in the history of Sisak when the brave knights of Sisak stopped the superior Turkish army in their march westward. www.sisakturist.com

Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings 17.-20.5., MetkoviÊ SMOTRA FOLKLORA NA NERETVU MISE»INA PALA/ FOLKLORE FESTIVAL

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lipanj/June, Sisak KELTSKA NOΔ/CELTIC NIGHT SiπËani se ovom predstavom, Ëija je pozornica rijeka Kupa, prisjeÊaju kako je njihov grad izgledao nekoÊ./With this play, whose stage is the Kupa River, the people of Sisak remember what their city once looked like. www.sisakturist.com Slavonija i Baranja/Slavonija and Baranja 2.-17.6., Slavonski Brod BRODSKO KOLO/ THE SLAVONSKI BROD KOLO Posjetitelji mogu razgledati mnoge etnografske i likovne izloæbe, prisustvovati djeËjim smotrama, smotrama izvornog pjevanja i folklornih skupina, sajmu kolaËa, smotrama konjskih zaprega te natjecanju u preponskom jahanju i u dvoprezima, izboru za najljepπu Hrvaticu u narodnoj noπnji…/Visitors can see many ethnographic and art exhibitions, attend children’s parades, festivals of original singing and folk groups, a cake fair, parades of horse teams and competitions in show jumping and pair-horse carriages, the most beautiful Croatian girl in folk costume pageant... www.brodsko-kolo.com 14.6.-1.7., Pakrac PAKRA»KO LJETO/SUMMER IN PAKRAC Posjetitelji mogu pogledati kazaliπne predstave, pratiti mnoga sportska nadmetanja, a sva su dogaanja u znaku srednjeg vijeka./Visitors can see theatre performances and follow numerous sporting events, and all the events are related to the Middle Ages. www.pakrac.hr 15. i/and 16.6., PitomaËa PJESME PODRAVINE I PODRAVLJA/SONGS OF PODRAVINA AND PODRAVLJE Na glazbenom festivalu svake godine nastupaju poznati izvoaËi hrvatske izvorne tradicionalne glazbe, a posveÊen je njegovanju puËke suvremene pjesme./This music festival, at which known Croatian traditional music artists perform each year, is dedicated to fostering contemporary folk songs. www.pitomacafestival.hr 15.6.-8.7., –akovo –AKOVA»KI VEZOVI U –akovu se predstavlja nekoliko oblika kulturne tradicije Slavonije-folklor, gastronomija te tradicija uzgoja konja./In –akovo, the cultural traditions of Slavonia are presented: folklore, gastronomy and the traditions of horse breeding. www.tz-djakovo.hr

lipanj/June, Kutjevo GRAND PRIX KUTJEVO Posjetite meunarodni konjiËki turnir u preponskom jahanju. Zbog viπegodiπnje tradicije uzgoja rasnih konja i vrhunskih jahaËa taj je turnir popularan i posjeÊen./Visit the international equestrian show jumping tournament. The long tradition of breeding thoroughbred horses and the top jockeys make this event popular and visited. www.tz-kutjevo.com Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 7.-10.6., Rijeka FIUMANKA JedriliËari iz svih krajeva svijeta okupljaju se jedanput na godinu na jedriliËarskoj regati Velika Fiumanka, koja se odræava od Rijeke do Omiπlja i natrag. To je neizostavan dogaaj za sve ljubitelje sportskog nadmetanja./ Sailors from all over the world gather annually at the Great Fiumanka sailing regatta which takes place on a route from Rijeka to Omiπalj and back. This is a real must for all lovers of sporting competition. www.fiumanka.hr 19.6.-14.7., Rijeka RIJE»KE LJETNE NOΔI/RIJEKA SUMMER NIGHTS RijeËki se trgovi, ulice i terase pretvaraju u kazaliπnju pozornicu. OËekuju vas izvedbe klasiËnih drama i novijih dramskih tekstova, koncerti klasiËne glazbe, nastupi uliËnih kazališta i koncerti estradnih zvjezda./The squares, streets and terraces of Rijeka are converted into theatrical stages. You can expect performances of classic dramas and the latest plays, concerts of classical music, street theatre performances and concerts by pop stars. www.rijeckeljetnenoci.com 7.- 9.6., Pula PULA SUPERIORUM Posjetite Pulu jer njezine se ulice na nekoliko dana pretvaraju u pozornice slikovitoga rimskog teatra, a Arena ponovno postaje mjesto odræavanja gladijatorskih borbi./Visit Pula as its streets are turned into stages of a picturesque Roman theatre for a couple of days, and the Arena once again becomes the venue for gladiator fights. www.pulasuperiorum.com lipanj-rujan/June - September, Novalja NOVALJSKO KULTURNO LJETO/NOVALJA CULTURAL SUMMER Poπto proslave dan svoga grada 13. lipnja na Antunovo, Novaljci poËinju dugo toplo ljeto bogato razliËitim kulturno-umjetniËkim i zabavnim sadræajima./After the celebration of

the day of their town’s patron saint, St. Anthony, on 13th June, the people of Novalja begin a long, hot summer with a wide variety of cultural, artistic and entertainment events. www.tz-novalja.hr 10.-12.6., Ogulin OGULINSKI FESTIVAL BAJKE/ OGULIN FESTIVAL OF FAIRYTALES Ogulinci svake godine u Ëast Ivani BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ, popularnoj spisateljici bajki koje oduπevljavaju djecu, prireuju festival što njihov grad pretvara u svijet iz bajke./Every year the people of Ogulin honour Ivana BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ, a popular writer of fairytales that delight children, by organizing this festival which turns their town into a world of fairytales. www.ogfb.hr 9.6.-15.9., Malinska KULTURNO LJETO/CULTURAL SUMMER Malinska na otoku Krku svojim gostima nudi impresivan kulturni program koji obogaÊuje ljetni odmor. Tijekom ljetnih mjeseci iz samostana sv. Marije Magdalene πire se zvuci klasiËnih glazbala, a u Galeriji sv. Nikole moæete uæivati u likovnim djelima./Malinska, on the island of Krk, offers its guests an impressive cultural program that enriches their summer vacation. During the summer months the sounds of classical instruments can be heard from the Monastery of St. Mary Magdalena, and you can enjoy art works in the St. Nicholas Gallery. www.tz-malinska.hr 18.-30.6., Mali Loπinj MORAM U MORE/ I MUST GO IN THE SEA Festival je posveÊen moru i æivotu ljudi s otoka, a oËekuje vas niz dogaanja i izloæbi./This festival is dedicated to the sea and the lives of people from the island, and you can expect a series of events and exhibitions. www.tz-malilosinj.hr Zadar i okolica/Zadar and surroundings 1.-3.6., Biograd n/m FESTIVAL IZVORNE HRANE, PIΔA, IZVORNOG SUVENIRA I FOLKLORA/FESTIVAL OF INDIGENOUS FOOD, DRINK, ORIGINAL SOUVENIRS AND FOLKLORE Ugostitelji Zadarske æupanije za goste pripremaju hranu od izvornih proizvoda po originalnim recepturama i posluæuju je, veÊ tradicionalno, na πest stotina metara dugaËkom stolu./ Chefs from all over Zadar County prepare food for guests made from original products according to original recipes and serve it, traditionally, on a six-hundred-metre-long table.

www.biogradnamoru.hr 5.-9.6., Starigrad-Paklenica TRAGOVIMA WINNETOUA/ WINNETOU TRACKS Doæivite lokacije na kojima se snimao film o hrabrom poglavici Winnetouu − Paklenicu, Krku i PlitviËka jezera, uæivajte u prirodnim ljepotama, okuπajte se u jahanju, sjednite uz logorsku vatru i kuπajte razliËite delicije./ Experience the locations where the films about the brave chief Winnetou were shot-Paklenica, Krka and Plitvice Lakes, enjoy the natural beauty, try horseback riding, sit around a camp fire and taste various delicacies. www.rivijera-paklenica.hr ©ibenik i okolica/Šibenik and surroundings 18.6.-2.7., ©ibenik ME–UNARODNI DJE»JI FESTIVAL/INTERNATIONAL CHILDRENS’ FESTIVAL ©ibenik Êe i ljetos, 51. godinu zaredom, biti domaÊin djeci te svoje ulice, trgove i pozornice prepustiti raspjevanoj i kreativnoj djeci svijeta./For the 51st consecutive year, ©ibenik will be the host to children, and its streets, squares and stages will be given over to the all-singing, all-dancing and creative children of the world. www.mdf-si.org Split i okolica/Split and surroundings 15.-30.6., Split FESTIVAL ULI»NIH ZABAVLJA»A/FESTIVAL OF STREET PERFORMERS Na meunarodnom festivalu uliËnih zabavljaËa, umjetnici i performeri neformalnoga umjetniËkog izraæavanja iz 16 zemalja zabavit Êe goste i graane na šest lokacija u Splitu./At the International Festival of Street Performers, artists and performers of informal artistic expression from 16 countries will entertain guests and citizens at 6 locations in Split. www.visitsplit.com Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings lipanj-listopad/June - October, KorËula TRADICIJA VITE©KIH IGARA/ CHIVALRY GAMES TRADITION U gradu i na otoku KorËuli moæete doæivjeti izvedbu Moreπke, tradicionalne narodne viteške bojne igre sa sabljama, koja simbolizira borbu izmeu dobra i zla./In the city and on the island of KorËula you can experience the performance of Moreπka, a traditional sword dance that symbolizes the struggle between good and evil. www.korcula.net ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 152 NOVOSTI/NEWS 159 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST/ LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED 162 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU/ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 165 FLOTA/FLEET 167 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA/A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 169 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB/ZAGREB AIRPORT 170 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI/ WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 172 ADRESE/ADDRESSES CROATIA AIRLINES

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CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS

CROATIA AIRLINES NOVOSTI

NOVOSTI U LJETNOM REDU LETENJA

Naπi Êe zrakoplovi tijekom ljetnog reda letenja (25.3.- 27.10.) u meunarodnom prometu izravno povezivati Zagreb s Barcelonom, Ëetvrtkom i nedjeljom, a utorkom Êe letjeti na relaciji Zagreb-Rijeka-Barcelona v.v. Prvi let iz Zagreba u Barcelonu bit Êe 29. oæujka, a posljednji potkraj listopada.

Na liniji Atena - Zagreb naπi Êe zrakoplovi izravno letjeti utorkom, u razdoblju od 12. travnja do 21. listopada, a Ëetvrtkom i nedjeljom povezivat Êemo Zagreb, Dubrovnik i Atenu v.v..

Tijekom ljetnog reda letenja takoer Êemo povezati Zadar s Frankfurtom i Parizom.

Zadar i Frankfurt povezat Êemo u razdoblju od travnja do listopada, ponedjeljkom i petkom, a Zadar s Parizom utorkom, od svibnja do listopada. Croatia Airlines takoer Êe povezivati Split s Beogradom, ponedjeljkom i petkom, od 1. lipnja do 28. rujna. PodsjeÊamo, povoljnije zrakoplovne karte za sve naπe letove moæete kupiti na www.croatiaairlines.hr.

NEWS ABOUT THE SUMMER FLIGHT SCHEDULE

During the summer flight schedule (25 March to 27 October), on international routes our aircraft will directly connect Zagreb and Barcelona on Thursdays and Sundays, while on Tuesdays they will fly the Zagreb-RijekaBarcelona v.v. route. The first flight from Zagreb to Barcelona will be on 29 March, and the last one will be at the end of October.

On the Athens - Zagreb route, our aircraft will have direct flights on Tuesdays, from 12 April to 21 October, and we will connect Zagreb, Dubrovnik and Athens v.v. on Thursdays and Sundays.

During the summer we will also connect Zadar to Frankfurt and Paris. Zadar and Frankfurt will be connected during the period from April to October on Mondays and Fridays, and Zadar will be connected to Paris on Tuesdays from May to October. Croatia Airlines will also connect Split with Belgrade, from 1 June to 28 September, on Mondays and Fridays.

Let us remind you, more favourable air tickets for all our flights can be purchased at www.croatiaairlines.com.

NOVI BROJ KONTAKT CENTRA

U Kontakt centru naπe Êe vam kolege rado odgovoriti na sva vaπa pitanja u vezi s putovanjem, rezervirati vaπ let i izdati vam 152

zrakoplovnu kartu. Stoga nazovite broj 062 500 505 i +385 1 6676 555, te od 1.travnja i na broj koji vam je dostupan samo iz Hrvatske, i to preko mobilnih ureaja: *500 NEW CONTACT CENTRE NUMBER

The staff at our Contact Centre will gladly answer all your travel-related questions, reserve your flight and issue a flight ticket to you. Therefore, call 062 500 505 or +385 1 6676 555, and as of 1 April you can also call the number which is only available via your mobile phone when calling within Croatia: *500 NOVE MOBILNE APLIKACIJE

PodsjeÊamo vas da na naπoj web stranici www.croatiaairlines.hr. moæete preuzeti nove aplikacije - aplikaciju za iPhone / iPad ureaje, te aplikaciju za mobilne telefone s operativnim sustavom Android. Uvoenjem tih aplikacija kompanija je nastavila primjenjivati najsuvremenije tehnologije, a najvaænije putniËke informacije odsad su dostupne joπ veÊem broju korisnika mobilnih tehnologija.

Nove mobilne aplikacije omoguÊuju jednostavan, brz, uËinkovit i lokacijski neovisan pristup informacijama kao πto su provjera statusa bilo kojeg leta u svakom trenutku, jednostavno pretraæivanje mreæe letova, pregled informacija o poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa u zemlji i inozemstvu, informacije o prijavi za let Croatia Airlinesa (check in), informacije o autobusnim linijama prema zraËnim lukama i iz njih, pregled svih informacija o prtljazi, pregled brojeva telefona i radnog vremena Kontakt centra kao i moguÊnost pristupa web stranici Croatia Airlinesa.

Croatia and abroad, Croatia Airlines’ check-in information, information on bus lines to and from airports, information regarding luggage, telephone numbers and working hours of the Contact Centre, as well as access to the Croatia Airlines’ web site.

20. OBLJETNICA PRVOGA ME–UNARODNOG LETA

Iz Hamburga je 3. travnja 1992. godine doπao prvi od pet Boeinga u naπu flotu. Zrakoplovi tipa Boeing u poËetku su poslovanja naπe tvrtke tvorili naπu fl otu. Poslije dva dana, dakle 5. travnja 1992., tim je zrakoplovom (9A-CTA) obavljen prvi meunarodni let Zagrab-Frankfurt. Bio je to poËetak formiranja vlastite flote.

20 th ANNIVERSARY OF THE FIRST INTERNATIONAL FLIGHT

On 3 April 1992, the first of five Boeings arrived from Hamburg to join our fleet. In the beginning our fleet was comprised of Boeing type aircraft. Two days later, that is, on 5 April 1992, that aircraft (9A-CTA) carried out our fi rst international fl ight, Zagreb-Frankfurt, marking the beginning of the creation of our own fleet.

NEW MOBILE APPLICATIONS

We would like to remind you that on our web page www.croatiaairlines.com you can download new applications − applications for iPhone and iPad devices, as well as an application for mobile phones with the Android operational system. With these applications the company is continuing its introduction of state-of-the-art technologies, and from now on the most important travel information will be available to an even larger number of users of modern technologies. The new mobile applications enable a simple, fast and effi cient approach to information, regardless of your location, such as: checking the status of any flight at any moment, simple browsing of the flight network, an overview of information on Croatia Airlines’ affiliates in

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Kako bi putovanja naπim zrakoplovima bila joπ ugodnija, odluËili smo, do svibnja, u Ëetiri naπa zrakoplova Airbus 319, zamijeniti putniËka sjedala.

In order to make flying on our aircraft even more comfortable, until May we decided to replace the passenger seats in four Airbus 319 aircraft.

Z

a naπa nova sjedala izabrali smo najkvalitetnija sjedala Recaro, napravljena u NjemaËkoj i Poljskoj, koja su rezultat viπegodiπnjih istraæivanja i zadovoljavaju vrlo zahtjevne standarde avioindustrije kao πto su visoka kvaliteta, funkcionalnost i ergonomiËnost.

Na sjedalima je primijenjen vrlo inventivan Recarov produkt dizajn. StruËnjaci u ergonomskim institutima i na pojedinim fakultetima istraæivali su kako da se udovolji vrlo razliËitim projektnim zahtjevima, πto je, izmeu ostaloga, rezultiralo znaËajnim smanjenjem teæine sjedala za otprilike 5 kilograma. Smanjenje teæine sjedala bitno pridonosi smanjenju potroπnje goriva, πto je veoma vaæno u zrakoplovstvu zbog konstantno visokih cijena goriva.

Stara su sjedala zamijenjena u hangaru Croatia Airlinesa, Ëije je otvaranje 2008. godine omoguÊilo odræavanje ne samo zrakoplova Croatia Airlinesa, nego i zrakoplova inozemnih aviokompanija, odnosno omoguÊilo je izvoz struËnog znanja naπih djelatnika iz Tehnike.

Branimir VukoviÊ, direktor inæenjerskih poslova i voditelj ovoga projekta, o zamjeni sjedala rekao nam je sljedeÊe: - U Tehnici Croatia Airlinesa vrlo smo ponosni πto smo svojim znanjem i radom mogli pomoÊi da naπi zrakoplovi dobiju danas najsuvremenija sjedala RECARO BL 3520. Recaro je svjetski lider i inovator u svim segmentima izrade sjedala, a vrhunac njihove proizvodnje upravo su sjedala za zrakoplove. Sjedala kojima je Croatia Airlines opremila svoju A319 flotu razvijena su u suradnji s vodeÊim svjetskim zrakoplovnim kompanijama i ergonomskim institutima kako bi putnicima pruæila najveÊu moguÊu udobnost na kontinentalnim letovima.

Posebna koæa u kompanijskim bojama sjedalu daje ekskluzivan izgled. Pri projektiranju osobito se vodilo raËuna o ekoloπkim zahtjevima.

Zato su nova sjedala Recaro bitno lakπa od prijaπnjih, πto omoguÊuje manju potroπnju goriva, a smanjeno je ispuπtanje πtetnih plinova u atmosferu - zakljuËio je kolega VukoviÊ.

Ergonomski oblikovana sjedala s tankim naslonom zauzimaju manje mjesta od pret154

hodnih, tako da u svaki zrakoplov moæemo ugraditi joπ dva nova reda sjedala. Stoga Êemo u Ëetiri naπa zrakoplova, u poslovnome i u ekonomskom razredu, imati dodatna mjesta, πto Êe takoer pridonijeti konkurentnosti naπe kompanije.

Tamnoplava sjedala sa svijetloplavim sigurnosnim pojasima, detaljima i uzglavcima u skladu su s vizualnim identitetom Croatia Airlinesa.

Napravljena su od ekoloπke koæe kako bi se lakπe odræavala, a prate posljednje trendove u europskom zrakoplovstvu.

Straænji dio sjedala projektiran je tako da se standardna ruËna prtljaga moæe staviti u

prostor ispod sjedala u redu ispred. Mjesto za naπ putni Ëasopis podignuto je u razinu oËiju, iznad stoliÊa. Vaæno je naglasiti kako su sjedala projektirana tako da naπi putnici imaju viπe mjesta za koljena, jer to bitno pridonosi udobnosti na letu.

Sjedala je dizajnirala naπa kompanijska dizajnerica Ivana IvankoviÊ PrliÊ, a u vezi s tim projektom rekla je: - Sjedala u zrakoplovima Aibus 319 posebno su dizajnirana s kompanijskim obiljeæjima i presvuËena visokokvalitetnom koæom tamnoplave boje s utkanim stiliziranim valovima kako bi se u putniËkoj kabini stvorila asocijacija na hrvatsko mediteransko podneblje. Ekoloπka koæa obojena je najsuvremenijom ekoloπkom bojom koja ne sadræava krom. Na vrhu sjedala istiËu se novi, posebno dizajnirani koæni uzglavci s utisnutim kvadratnim uzorkom, prepoznatljivim simbolom hrvatskoga nacionalnog identiteta, a ujedno i identiteta naπe kompanije. Croatia Airlines od osnutka sustavno stvara svoj vizualni identitet koji proæima sve segmente kompanije. Novim dizajnom sjedala naπa kompanija ostaje dosljedna, ali i unapreuje dosadaπnji vizualni identitet − istaknula je naπa dizajnerica.

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Uvoenjem novih sjedala u kabine naπih zrakoplova A 319 ponovno smo vam æeljeli ponuditi vrhunsku kvalitetu, udobnost i sigurnost na naπim letovima te se nadamo kako smo u tome uspjeli.

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e selected top-quality Recaro seats which are made in Germany and Poland. These seats are the result of many years of research and they meet the demanding aircraft industry standards, such as top-quality, functionality and ergonomics.

The innovative Recaro product design was applied. Experts at ergonomics institutes and several faculties carried out research studies in order to investigate how they could meet the various demands of the project, and, among other things, their research resulted in a significant reduction in the weight of the seats, by about five kilograms. Such a reduction considerably contributes to a decrease in fuel consumption, which is of key importance in the airline business due to continuously high fuel prices.

The old seats were replaced in the Croatia Airlines’ hangar, which opened in 2008. Since then, the hangar has been used for maintenance on Croatia Airlines’ aircraft but also for maintenance for third party customers, hence enabling the export of our expert services offered by the Technical Department. Branimir VukoviÊ, Director of Engineering Services and head of the project, told us more about the replacement of the seats: - The Technical Department of Croatia Airlines is very proud to have invested our knowledge and efforts so that our aircraft now have stateof-the-art RECARO BL 3520 seats. Recaro is a global leader and innovator in all segments of seat production, and aircraft seats are the most important part of their production. The seats that can now be seen in Croatia Airlines A319 fleet were developed in cooperation with the leading global aircraft companies and ergonomics institutes, so that passengers can enjoy maximum comfort on continental flights.

Specially designed leather in the company’s colours gives the seats quite an exclusive appearance. Ecological requirements were also taken into account when designing the

seats. That is why the new Recaro seats are significantly lighter than the old ones, which has resulted in lower fuel consumption, and hence a reduction in the emission of harmful gasses into the atmosphere, our colleague VukoviÊ concluded.

The ergonomically shaped seats with thin backrests take up less space than the old seats, and hence another two rows of seats could be installed in each of the aircraft. This is why we will be able to offer you additional seats on four of our aircraft, in both economy and business classes, which will also contribute to the competitiveness of our company.

Dark blue seats with navy blue seat belts, details and headrests, are all in line with the visual identity of Croatia Airlines. They are made of ecological leather so that their maintenance is simple, and they follow the latest trends in the European aircraft business.

- The rear part of the seat is designed in such a way that standard hand luggage can be placed in the space under the seat in front of you. The place for our inflight magazine has been raised to eye level, above the table. It is worth mentioning that the seats are designed in such a way that passengers have more space for their knees, which makes their flight more comfortable.

The visual identity of the seats was created by our company’s designer, Ivana IvankoviÊ PrliÊ. When we asked her about this project, she told us: - The seats on Airbus 319 aircraft have been specially designed to bear the company’s symbols and are upholstered in high-quality dark blue leather with a woven pattern of sea waves. This was done so that the passenger cabin creates an association with the Croatian Mediterranean region. Eco leather has been dyed using top-notch ecological dye which does not contain chrome. On top of the seats are new, specially designed, leather headrests with an imprinted pattern of small squares, which is a recognisable part of the Croatian national identity, and the identity of our company as well. Croatia Airlines has been continuously creating its visual identity since its establishment, which has become a part of all the segments of the company. With the new seat design our company remains faithful to the visual identity it has created so far, and even improves it, our designer concludes.

With the introduction of new seats in the cabins of our A319 aircraft, once again we would like to offer you supreme quality, comfort and safety on our flights. We hope we have succeeded in that.

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Darinka svoj posao voli, i to se osjeÊa pri svakom susretu s naπom uvijek nasmijeπenom, optimistiËnom i susretljivom kolegicom. Kaæe nam kako joj je posao izazov, jer svaki joj je dan drugaËiji.

Darinka loves her job and this shows whenever you meet our always smiling, optimistic and friendly colleague. She tells us that her job is a challenge, as every day is different.

Darinka ©imon, poslovna tajnica glavnog direktora

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arinka ©imon, poslovna tajnica glavnog direktora, radi u Croatia Airlinesu veÊ osamnaest godina. Prije zaposlenja u naπoj tvrtki radila je u hotelima Holiday i Esplanade, jer po struci je hotelijersko-turistiËka radnica. Prvi joj je posao u Croatia Airlinesu bio na telefonskoj centrali. Rado ga se prisjeÊa, jer omoguÊio joj je da se dobro upozna sa zaposlenicima i organizacijom tvrtke. Bio je, kaæe, dobar start za dalje. Kad joj se pruæila nova prilika, postala je tajnicom u marketingu, a danas je poslovna tajnica glavnog direktora SreÊka ©imunoviÊa. Svoj posao voli, i to se osjeÊa pri svakom susretu s naπom uvijek nasmijeπenom, optimistiËnom i susretljivom kolegicom.

Darinka nam kaæe kako joj je posao izazov, jer svaki joj je dan drugaËiji. Posao joj se temelji na komunikaciji s poslovnim partnerima i zaposlenicima tvrtke, dogovaranju i pripremi poslovnih sastanaka, ima uvid i u poslovne procese, ali, kaæe, ne ulazi previπe u njihovu problematiku.

Njezin je glavni zadatak filtrirati mnoge informacije koje dobiva i odrediti prioritete, a povjerenje je, istiËe, kljuË njezina posla. ©aleÊi se, i uz vjeËni osmijeh, kaæe nam, kako katkad valja i zatajiti poneku informaciju, o Ëemu govori i ime njezina zanimljivoga radnog mjesta. Radi u smjenama i dostupna je, kao i njezine kolegice, tijekom cijeloga dana, kako bi posao mogao funkcionirati.

Svaki dan kontaktira s mnogo ljudi i u πali kaæe kako uvijek ima tona, ali nema slike. IstiËe ugodnu radnu atmosferu, koja je vaæna kako bi se posao mogao kvalitetno obavljati, a glavni direktor i njezine dvije kolegice, Marijana i Sanda, uvijek su, kaže, spremne na suradnju.

Izravna i draga kolegica Darinka proπla je ra156

Darinka ©imon, Personal Assistant to the President&C.E.O.

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ur colleague, Darinka, has been working for Croatia Airlines for eighteen years.

Before joining our company, she worked at the hotels Holiday and Esplanade, since her profession is in hotel management and the tourism industry. Her first job at Croatia Airlines was at the switchboard, and she remembers it fondly as it gave her a chance to get to know the staff and the company’s organization, and it was, as she says, a good starting point. She was offered a new opportunity to become a secretary in the marketing department, and today she is Personal Assistant to the President & C.E.O. SreÊko ©imunoviÊ. She loves her job and this shows whenever you meet our always smiling, optimistic and friendly colleague.

Darinka tells us that her job is a challenge, as every day is different. Her work is based on communicating with the company’s business partners and employees, arranging and preparing business meetings, and she also has access to the company’s entire business operations and business processes; however, she says, she does not delve too deep into their intricacies. Her main task is to filter through the abundance of incoming information and set priorities, and trust is, as she says, crucial to her work. Joking and always smiling, she tells us that sometimes a piece of information must be kept secret, as the title of her fascinating job suggests. She works in shifts and is avail-

able, like her colleagues, throughout the day, in order to ensure that the business operations run smoothly.

Every day she is in contact with a lot of people and jokes that there’s always sound, but no picture.

She emphasizes a pleasant work environment, which is essential for doing work well, and the C.E.O. and her two colleagues, Marijana and Sanda, are always cooperative.

Our outgoing and kind colleague has undergone different training courses for business secretaries, and her boss often tells her that today, with her experience, she could teach others. She says that the training courses were very useful, as they were taught by psychologists, and the students had a chance to learn about written communication, etc., all of which she applies in practice today, which is appreciated by the numerous people she speaks to.

In her personal life, Darinka is a mother of three grown children; her son Ivan and daughter Maja are already in college, while her youngest son, Danijel, is in high school.

In her free time she likes to hike with her husband, Tibor, and she is the secretary of the Croatia Airlines Mountaineering Club, which organizes many interesting hikes every year. In the little free time left, she tends to her garden and reads in order to be prepared for new business challenges.

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Nenad Reberšak

Piše/By Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ

zliËite edukacije za poslovne tajnice i glavni joj direktor Ëesto kaæe kako bi ona danas sa svojim iskustvom mogla predavati drugima. ©kolovanja su joj uvelike koristila, jer sluπala je predavanja psihologa, o pisanoj komunikaciji i sl., a sve to danas primjenjuje u praksi, procjenjujuÊi mnoge sugovornike.

Darinka je privatno mama troje odrasle djece.

Sin Ivan i kÊi Maja veÊ su na fakultetu, a najmlai je sin Danijel gimnazijalac. U slobodno vrijeme sa svojim suprugom Tiborom rado planinari.

Tajnica je i Planinarskog druπtva Croatia Airlinesa, koje organizira mnoge zanimljive izlete.

Takoer, u malo vremena koje joj preostaje, bavi se vrtlarstvom. A mnogo i Ëita, kako bi bila spremna za neke nove poslovne izazove. ■

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Miles & More

Osnove Miles & More programa

Introducing Miles & More

Miles & More najveÊi je program nagraivanja putnika u Europi i nudi Ëlanovima ra zliËite moguÊnosti prikupljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih par tnera u programu.

Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija par tnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kar tica Miles & More.

Miles & More is the greatest frequent flyer programme in Europe offering its members numerous possibilities for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many attractive privileges.

Members collect miles by using the services of many partners in the programme.

Miles are credited for flights of all Star Alliance members and other airline partners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car partners or staying in participating hotels.

Zatraæite svoju Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditnu kar ticu! n 5 kuna = 1 milja - za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko ove kar tice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja n Dvostruke milje - osvajate za plaÊa nje turistiË kih aranæmana i zrakoplovnih karata u Diners Club Travelu n Prikupljajte nagrad ne milje svuda - jed nostav no plaÊajte svojom Diners Club kar ticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu.

Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card! n 5 HRK = 1 mile - for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile. n Earn double miles - for paying package tours and flight tickets at Diners Club Travel n Collect award miles ever ywhere - simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC offices in Croatia or abroad

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Osvojite joπ viπe milja - koriπtenje ostalih pogodnosti Diners Cluba poput besplatnih online usluga, e-plaÊanja ili trajnih naloga donosi vam dodatne milje. n 2 kar tice - 1 raËun Miles & More - koristite se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom kar ticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More.

n Collect extra award miles - by using other Diners Club benefits, such as free online services, internet banking and e-paying, standing orders etc. n 2 credit cards - 1 Miles & More membership account - use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account.

Zatražite svoju kreditnu karticu VISA Croatia Airlines!

Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club objavili su, osim companion kreditnih karica (poslovnih i privatnih), i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu.

Potroπnja od 14 kuna na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu milju Miles & More, a za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu se preko kartica u paru dobiva 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card!

Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club have issued, besides a companion credit card (both business and private), a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Zatra æite svoju kreditnu kar ticu Croatia Airlines American Express! n 4 kune = 1 nagradna milja - za svake 4 kune potroπene preko Premium kar tice biljeæi se 1 nagradna milja, odnosno za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko Standard kar tice n 2500 milja dobrodoπlice - za nove osnovne Premium korisnike i 1250 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Premium korisnike n 1500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard korisnike i 750 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Standard korisnike n Dvostruke nagradne milje - za potroπnju u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i Jumbo Travel Ser vices PBZ Carda n UËlanjenje u Priority Pass bez naknade te pristup u viπe od 450 VIP salona u zraËnim lukama

Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express credit card! n 4 HRK = 1 award mile - for every 4 HRK spent via Premium card, you collect 1 award mile, and for every 5 HRK spent via Standard card you collect 1 mile. n 2.500 welcome miles - for new basic Premium card users and 1.250 welcome miles for new additional Premium card users. n 1.500 welcome miles - for new basic Standard card users and 750 welcome miles for new additional Standard card users. n Earn double award miles - using the card to pay for travels at Croatia Airlines sales offices and Jumbo Travel Services of PBZ Card. n Free Priority Pass enrollment- it enables you to access into more than 450 VIP airport lounges

Razredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti Koriπtenjem usluga par tnera u programu prikupljate nagradne milje koje zamjenjujete za nagrade i statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status i pogodnosti πto ih ostvarujete.

Statusne milje prikupljaju se redovitim letovima sljedeÊih zrakoplovnih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Luf thansa Regional i Luf thansa Private Jet), SWISS i svi zrakoplovni par tneri iz mreæe Star Alliance, Air Dolomiti i Luxair. Svaka tako ostvarena milja biljeæi se i kao statusna i kao nagradna milja.

Milje HON Circle statusne su milje koje se prikupljaju letovima sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Austrian Air lines, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Luf thansa (ukljuËujuÊi Luf thansa Regional i Luf thansa Private Jet), Luxair i Swiss International Airlines.

Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendarskoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller, a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini oËe ku je vas status Se nator. »la novi koji prikupe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u ra zdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalendarske godine, stjeËu status HON Circle.

Tiers and benefits By using the Miles & More partners’ services members collect award miles, which are traded in for awards; and status miles, which determine a member’s membership status and privileges.

Status miles can be accrued on scheduled flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, all Star Alliance partners, Air Dolomiti and Luxair.

Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status and an award mile.

HON Circle miles are status miles that you collect on flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), Luxair and Swiss International Airlines.

With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year members earn the Frequent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, earn the HON Circle status.

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Pogodnosti statusa Frequent Traveller - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja na zaista prijeeni ili standardni iznos za letove sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Lufthansa Regional i Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Airways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair i Continental.

- neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - uporaba Lufthansa Business Class Loungea prilikom letova s nekom od Ëlanica Star Alliancea - prednost na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog razreda - 40 kg prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji Ako je rijeË o komadnom prijevozu prtljage, 2 komada u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu, a tri u prvom razredu putovanja

Frequent Traveller privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent on the actual flown miles or standard mileage amounts on flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Airways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair and Continental.

- Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Use of the Lufthansa Business Class Lounges while flying with a Star Alliance Member - Waiting list priority - Check-in at the Lufthansa Business Class counter - Free baggage allowance of 40 kg depending on the destination and the airline If piece concept is applicable 2 bags in total (Economy or Business) and 3 bags in the First Class

Pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - predujam od 50.000 milja - uporaba Lufthansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold Lounge partnera u Star Allianceu - viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog razreda - osigurano mjesto na letu za rezervacije do 48 sati odnosno do 72 sata unaprijed, ovisno o razredu putovanja - 50 posto manje milja za suputnika na nagradnom letu, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dodatnih 20 kg ili dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonomskom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu - dva elektroniËka vauËera za premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), te joπ dva za svako zadræavanje statusa - Senator Premium Award

Senator privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - 50,000 miles in advance - Access to the Lufthansa Senator Lounge as well as to the Star Gold Lounges of Star Alliance partners - High waiting list priority - First Class check-in - Booking guarantee up to 48 or 72 hours in advance depending on the booking class - A 50 per cent mile age discount for an ac companying per son on fl ig ht awar ds depending on the airline - Ad di ti o nal 20 kg bagga ge al lowan ce or an addi ti o nal bag depending on the destination and the airline - Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and 4 in the First Class - 2 electronic upgrade vouchers and two more for every status retention - Senator Premium Award

Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle - sve pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus od 25 posto - predujam od 100.000 milja - Status Senator za supruænika ili partnera, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dva elektroniËka vauËera za premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), te dva prigodom zadræavanja statusa - dodatne pogodnosti koje nude partneri programa osiguravajuÊi jedinstveno iskustvo putovanja - komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonomskom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu

HON Circle privileges - All existing Senator privileges - Executive bonus of 25 per cent - 100,000 miles in advance - Senator status for your spouse or partner depending on the airline - 2 electronic Upgrade Vouchers and 2 more for every status retention - Additional benefits offered by Miles & More partners, rounding off the travel experience - Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and 4 in the First Class

Troπite milje Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge nagrade: nagradne karte, premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), razliËite nagrade kojima se moæete koristiti pri putovanju (hotelski smjeπtaj, unajmljivanje vozila).

Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com

Spend miles You can exchange collected award miles for awards prepared for you: award tickets, upgrades, various travel awards.

You can find more at: www.miles-and-more.com

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Croatia Airlines nagrauje autora najoriginalnije fotografije.

Renata BedekoviÊ

Fotografirajte i otputujte Letite Croatia Airlinesom, fotografirajte i osvojite zrakoplovne karte.

Autor najoriginalnije fotografije bit Êe nagraen dvjema povratnim meunarodnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa.

Zaπto volite putovati ?

Budite kreativni. Fotografijom i jednom reËenicom izrazite zaπto volite putovanja.

Najbolju fotografiju izabrat Êe Sluæba promotivnih aktivnosti Croatia Airlinesa, a fotografiju Êemo objaviti u sljedeÊem broju putnog Ëasopisa.

Crno-bijele, fotografije u boji ili dijapozitive dostavite do 10. svibnja 2012. godine na adresu: Croatia Airlines, Sluæba promotivnih aktivnosti, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, Hrvatska.

Ne zaboravite priloæiti kupon s dna stranice.

" g.

ga

gica

IME PREZIME DATUM RO–ENJA ULICA I BROJ PO©TANSKI BROJ GRAD DRÆAVA TEL. E-MAIL

Uvjeti nagradne igre: - fotografije postaju vlasniπtvo Croatia Airlinesa - Croatia Airlines ne preuzima nikakvu odgovornost u sluËaju gubitka materijala - Croatia Airlines zadræava pravo koriπtenja fotografija u promidæbenim materijalima Croatia Airlinesa bez naknade - nagrada ne moæe biti zamijenjena za novac - djelatnici Croatia Airlinesa te Ëlanovi njihove uæe obitelji nemaju pravo sudjelovanja u nagradnoj igri

Croatia Airlines is rewarding the author of the most original photograph.

Robert Benich

Take a photo and travel

Fly Croatia Airlines, take photographs and win two air tickets.

The winner will receive 2 Croatia Airlines international round trip tickets.

Why do you love to travel ?

Be creative. In one sentence and a single photograph express why you love to travel. Selection of the most original photograph will be made by the Croatia Airlines Promotion Department and the photograph will be published in the next issue of our inflight magazine.

You should send us your B/W or color photographs and/or slides by 10th May 2012 to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Promotion Department, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, Croatia.

Do not forget to include the coupon from the page bottom.

" Mr.

Mrs.

Miss.

NAME SURNAME DATE OF BIRTH ADDRESS POSTAL CODE CITY COUNTRY TEL. NO. E-MAIL Conditions for participation: - photographs become the property of Croatia Airlines - Croatia Airlines does not assume any responsibility in case of the possible loss of the material - Croatia Airlines reserves the right to use the material in the Croatia Airlines promotional activities and materials, without an additional payment.

- reward cannot be exchanged for money - employees of Croatia Airlines as well as the members of their immediate families, are not allowed to participate

pristup-hrvatski:pristup-hrvatski 2010.06.09 09:14 Page 1

Miles & More TrenutaËni let/Current flight Broj karte/Document number

Klasa knjiæenja/ Booking class

Broj leta/ Flight number

Datum polaska/Date of departure Linija (npr. Frankfurt–Pariz)/Route (e.g. Frankfurt–Paris)

Adresa (molimo vas da navedete samo jednu adresu)/ Address (please state only one address) ga/Ms

g./Mr

Titula/Title

Telefon/Telephone

KuÊna/ Home Ime/First name

Poslovna/ Business Prezime/Surname

Poπtanski pretinac/PO Box

Ulica i broj/Street and number

Dræava/Country

Grad/Town

Razred putovanja/ Service class Economy Class Business Class First Class

Molimo vas da unesete ime kompanije/Please enter name of company here

Poπtanski broj/Postcode

Datum roenja/Date of birth Dan/ Mjesec/ Day Month

Godina/ Year

Odjel/Department

Mobilni telefon/Mobile number Privatni/ Home

Poslovni/ Business

Ovime potvrujem* da od sljedeÊih (dolje oznaËenih) kompanija æelim primati SMS poruke s vaænim i najnovijim informacijama u vezi s mojim letom tijekom putovanja. /I hereby give my permission* for the following listed companies (ticked below) to send me important and up-to-date information regarding my travel itinerary by SMS during my travels.

Deutsche Lufthansa AG, kompanija iz koncerna Lufthansa ili kompanije koje sudjeluju u programu Miles & More (ukljuËujuÊi Croatia Airlines) Deutsche Lufthansa AG, a company of the Lufthansa Group or joint operators of the Miles & More programme (including Croatia Airlines)

Drugi partneri programa Miles & More Other Miles & More partner corporations

e-mail adresa/E-mail address Privatna/ Home

Poslovna/ Business

Ovime potvrujem* da od sljedeÊih (dolje oznaËenih) kompanija æelim elektronskom poπtom primati obavijesti o ponudama, promocijama, novim uslugama i drugim zanimljivim temama vezanima uz Lufthansu, grupu Lufthansa i partnerske kompanije./I hereby give my permission* for the following listed companies (ticked below) to send me information by e-mail about offers, promotions, new services and other interesting topics from Lufthansa, the Lufthansa Group, as well as partner corporations.

Deutsche Lufthansa AG, kompanija iz koncerna Lufthansa ili kompanije koje sudjeluju u programu Miles & More (ukljuËujuÊi Croatia Airlines) Drugi partneri programa Miles & More Deutsche Lufthansa AG, a company of the Lufthansa Group or joint operators of the Miles & More programme (including Croatia Airlines) Other Miles & More partner corporations

Uvjete Ëlanstva u programu Miles & More moæete pronaÊi na web stranicama www.miles-and-more.com ili www.lufthansa.com. Ova vas prijava ne obvezuje ni na koji naËin.

Ne budete li viπe htjeli primati obavijesti o naπim posebnim ponudama, u svakom trenutku moæete povuÊi pristanak za koriπtenje vaπih osobnih podataka u promotivne svrhe pozivom na telefonski broj + 49-1805-5959 (€0.12/min. preko fiksne mreæe u NjemaËkoj) * Znam da dopuπtenje dano Deutsche Lufthansi AG mogu povuÊi u svakom trenutku.

©panjolski/ Spanish

Poljski/ Polish

Japanski/ Japanese

Conditions of participation in our Frequent Flyer Programme Miles & More can be obtained on request on the Internet at www.miles-and-more.com and www.lufthansa.com This registration places you under no obligation.

If you no longer wish to receive our special offers, you can withdraw your permission to use your personal information for advertising purposes by contacting us on +49 -18 05 - 59 59 (€ 0.12/min. from a German landline). * I am aware that I can revoke this permission from Deutsche Lufthansa AG at any time.

Odabrani naËin komunikacije za Miles & More News i izvjeπtaj o stanju milja na raËunu/Preferred means of communication for Miles & More News and Miles & More account statements: Elektronski/ Poπtom/ Online Post

POU01

Jezik za komunikaciju/Preferred correspondence language Engleski/ Francuski/ Talijanski/ NjemaËki/ English French Italian German

Datum/Date

Potpis/Signature

Jednostavno je prijaviti se za Ëlanstvo: • preko interneta na web stranici www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • poπtom • telefaksom na broj +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 • kod osoblja u zrakoplovu Bit Êe nam zadovoljstvo ubiljeæiti vam milje za trenutaËni let kao i za bilo koji drugi let koji ste ostvarili u posljednjih 6 mjeseci s Croatia Airlinesom, kompanijom Lufthansa ili nekim drugim partnerom u programu. Molimo vas da gore unesete podatke o trenutaËnom letu.

Retroaktivno ubiljeæavanje milja za druge letove moæete zatraæiti na stranici www.miles-and-more.com. Molimo vas da uvijek Ëuvate originalnu kartu za ulazak u zrakoplov (boarding pass) i kopiju putne karte dok vam se milje ne ubiljeæe na raËun.

It’s so easy to register: • Online at www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • By fax +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200

d

• By post • With one of your flight attendants

We will be happy to credit your account with the miles for this flight and for any other flights taken in the last 6 months with Croatia Airlines, Lufthansa or another Miles & More partner.

Enter your current flight above. To have the miles for the other flights credited to your account, go to www.miles-and-more.com. Please retain your original boarding card and passenger receipt (copy of your ticket) until the miles have been credited to your account.

pristup-hrvatski:pristup-hrvatski 2010.06.09 09:14 Page 2

Razred putovanja/ Service class

Klasa knjiæenja/

Miles & More – veÊ sad poËnite prikupljati milje

Booking class

Broj leta/ Flight number

Broj karte/

Miles & More – start collecting miles now

Document number

LUFTPOST

Prostor za marku.

PAR AVION PRIORITAIRE

Please affix stamp here.

RÉPONSE PUBLICITAIRE/ANTWORT ALLEMAGNE Miles & More Postfach 14 34 33309 Gütersloh ALLEMAGNE

»im se poËnete koristiti svojom privremenom karticom Miles & More, milje Êe vam se biljeæiti na raËun. Molimo vas da pri svakoj rezervaciji navedete broj svoje kartice Miles & More. Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu.

Milje za danaπnji let bit Êe vam ubiljeæene na raËun ako na prednju stranu unesete sve potrebne podatke o letu.

Ime/First name

Miles will start landing in your account immediately after you start to use your temporary Miles & More Card. Please remember to state your personal Miles & More number every time you make a reservation.

You will receive your proper Miles & More Card once you have collected one mile.

Prezime/Surname

We will credit the miles for your current flight to your account once you have provided all the details of the current flight on the front.

Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu.

We will send you your regular Miles & More Card as soon as you have earned one mile.

NU RU A L M ČO IZBO O K SVA ANJE P ETS G V O BER OICE PUT M ME F CH H C EA TRIP O A

SUPERBRANDS PREDSTAVLJA

SHOPPING CLUB SUPERBRANDS PRESENTS

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U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU RED SJEDENJA Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo.

RU»NA PRTLJAGA

PO©TOVANI PUTNICI! Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima.

Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije.

Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije.

UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama.

Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi.

162

Sva Ëekirana prtljaga mora imati putnikovo ime. Besplatne oznake za prtljagu mogu se dobiti u svim prodajnim uredima Croatia Airlinesa. Oznaku za prtljagu stavite i unutar prtljage. Sve vrijedne stvari i predmete nosite sa sobom u zrakoplov. Osobnu ruËnu prtljagu odloæite iznad svojeg sjedala ili ispod njega, tako da teæi komadi idu ispod, a lakπi iznad, a da istodobno ne smeta drugim putnicima i posadi zrakoplova.

UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima.

PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja.

Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta.

mogu se rabiti sve vrijeme: sluπni aparati, ugraeni medicinski aparati, elektroniËki satovi, elektroniËki stimulatori æivaca.

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva.

USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U zrakoplovu raspolaæemo razliËitim vrstama alkoholnih i bezalkoholnih piÊa, kojima Êe vas stjuardese posluæiti zajedno s jelom. Prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed, moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka (oznaka: SPML), kao npr. vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed. Ako ste naruËili poseban obrok, molimo vas da o tome na vrijeme izvijestite osoblje.

Putnicima nije dopušteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Osoblje zrakoplova neÊe posluæiti alkoholna piÊa alkoholiziranim putnicima. Prije slijetanja osoblje Êe ukloniti sve πalice i Ëaπe. Puπenje nije dopuπteno tijekom cijelog leta, a u toaletima postoje i detektori za dim, koji se aktiviraju u sluËaju puπenja.

MEDICINSKA POMOΔ U zrakoplovu imamo priruËnu ljekarnu sa svim potrebnim lijekovima za prvu pomoÊ (s lijekovima protiv bolova, flasterima i ostalim osnovnim medicinskim sredstvima).

Za medicinsku pomoÊ obratite se kabinskom osoblju.

UPORABA TELEFONSKIH NAPRAVA

SKY - SHOP

Sadaπnje odredbe zabranjuju uporabu odreenih prenosivih elektronskih naprava tijekom komercijalnih letova, zbog moguÊnosti ometanja navigacijske i komunikacijske opreme.

Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa zabranjena je uporaba ovih elektroniËkih naprava: prijenosnih telefona, komercijalnih dvovalnih prijenosnika (npr. walkie talkie); amaterskih prijenosnih ureaja; CB prijenosnih ureaja: prijenosnih ureaja koji emitiraju RF energiju na odreenoj frekvenciji, perifernih ureaja za raËunala ili igre. Ovi se ureaji mogu rabiti kad zrakoplov nije na pisti, uzletu, poËetnom penjanju, prilazu ili fazama slijetanja: osobna raËunala (periferni ureaji kao πto su πtampaËi, vanjski disc driveovi itd. nisu dopuπteni); osobna raËunala s igrama, VHF skenerski prijamnici; CD diskovi; kasetofoni, videorekorderi; kalkulatori. SljedeÊi ureaji

U avionu moæete kupiti bescarinsku robu. Što se tiËe cijena, obratite se domaÊici zrakoplova. Roba se moæe platiti u sljedeÊim konvertibilnim valutama: euro, ameriËki dolar, funta, πvicarski franak i u nacionalnoj valuti kunama, te sljedeÊim karticama: Diners, Visa, American Express i EuroMaster Card.

Zbog teæine aviona ili trenutaËnog nedostatka prostora ponuda moæe biti ograniËena, pa vas molimo da to uzmete u obzir.

■ DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our first and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken

CROATIA AIRLINES

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ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests.

With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services.

Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inflight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr Please read the instructions below, impor-tant for your safety and comfort during the flight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your flight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the flight.

USE OF ELECTRONIC DEVICES Current regulations prohibit the use of certain types of portable electronic devices (PFDs) on board commercial flights, due to potential interference with navigational and communications equipment. On Croatia Airlines’ flights it is prohibited to use the following electronic devices: cellular telephones,

firearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers.

SERVICE ON BOARD Both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are available on board and are served with your meal. If you wish to order a special kind of meal such as vegeterian, dietary etc., you can do so when buying your ticket but must be 24 hours in advance. Kosher meals should be ordered 48 hours in advance. Make sure that your flight attendant is aware that you have ordered a special meal.

Passengers are prohibited from consuming their own alcoholic beverages on board.

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking flights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.

SEAT ASSIGNMENT Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing.

BAGGAGE All checked-in baggage must have the passen-ger’s name on the outside. Free identification cards are available at all OU ticket offices. We suggest that you place an identification tag inside your luggage as well.

Carry all valuable and important items with you on the plane. Hand luggage must be stowed under the passenger seat or in the overhead compartment - heavy pieces below and lighter above the seat - in a way not to disturb other passengers or the cabin crew.

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole flight.

commercial two-way transmitters (e. g., walkie-talkies); amateur radio transmitters; Citizen Band (CB) transmitters; 49-MHz transmitters, devices designed to radiate RF energy on a specific frequency; peripheral devices for computers or computer games.

The following devices may be used when the aircraft is not in the taxiing, take-off, initial climb, approach or landing phases: personal computers (cable-connected peripheral devices such as printers, external disc drives, etc. are not permitted); personal computer games, VHS scanner receivers; compact disc players; cassette tape players; video recorders; calculators. The following may be operated at all times: hearing aids, implanted medical devices, electronic watches, electronic nerve stimulators.

The cabin crew are instructed to discontinue ser-ving passengers who appear to be intoxicated. All cups and glasses will be removed from the passenger areas prior to take-off and landing. Smoking is not permitted on any of Croatia Airlines’ flights. A fresh air vent and smoke detectors are located in toilletes and will be activated if smoking.

MEDICAL AID Painkillers, Band Aid and other essential medical items are kept on the aircraft. Ask your flight attendant should you need any assistance.

SKY SHOP RESTRICTED ITEMS The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage.

Such items are: explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons,

Duty free goods can be paid for in major currencies such as: Euro, US Dollar, British Pounds, Swiss Franks and national currency Kuna, whilst Diners, Visa, American Express and Euro-Master Card are also welcome. ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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Wherever my photo shoot, I can earn miles, and spend them taking my family with me.

Across 27 airlines, all on one card.

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve earned it.

A n n i e G r i f f i th s, N a ti o n a l G e o g r a p h i c Photo g r a p h e r a n d S ta r A l l i a n c e Go l d S tatu s

staralliance.com

164

CROATIA AIRLINES

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FLEET

FLOTA

Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 Ëine naπu flotu.

Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m /ft )

122,40 / 1318

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

3

4

6

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

162/164

144

76

2

2

Airbus 320-200

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnog i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednog do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Airbus 319-100

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnog i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednog do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Dash 8-Q400

Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje.

Raspored poslovnog i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednog do drugog leta.

One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer.

Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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CROATIA AIRLINES

3/13/12 6:00 PM

A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA USA NEW YORK WASHINGTON

St. Petersburg ABERDEEN EDINBURG BELFAST DUBLIN

MANCHESTER

Chisinau LYON

VENICE

Turin

Genoa MADRID

RIJEKA

OSIJEK BELGRADE Bucharest

BRA» Bari

Palermo Catania

ATENA

TEL AVIV

Partneri / Partners:

bmi

CROATIA AIRLINES

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168

CROATIA AIRLINES

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PREFERRED DESTINATION OF THE YEAR 2011/2012

3/13/12 6:01 PM

ZAGREB AIRPORT

ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

5

4

4

Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21

International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

2 Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7

1

P

Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

D

Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike

D

C

P C

Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A”

A

Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima

Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”

N

B S B

Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte

3

S

TAKSI BUS

CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

1

Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

2

V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije

3

Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

4

Restaurant Faust VranËiÊ

5

Panoramic View Panoramski pogled

A

Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila

Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica

B

Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica

Coffee Bar Kavana

Flight Information Informacije o letovima

C

Customs Control Carinska kontrola

Bar

Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije

D

Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina

Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks)

N

Newstand Novinarnica

Baggage Prtljaga

P

Passport Control Kontrola putovnica

S

Shops Prodavaonice

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.

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U DUBROVNIKU autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 60 minuta prije leta.

Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova.

In DUBROVNIK airport buses leave 90 minutes before the flight, and in ZADAR 60 minutes before the flight.

The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing.

Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) - Zagreb (zraËna luka) - Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) Rijeka - Polazak u 15.30 sati.

Cijena karte u jednom smjeru: 145 kuna.

Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) - Zagreb Airport - Departure at 5.00. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport - Rijeka - Departure at 15.30. Price of a one-way ticket: 145 Kunas.

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb (do 27. listopada 2012.): Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb (until 27 October 2012): 7.00 7.30 8.00 8.30

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ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 8.00 8.30

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Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, 098 472-539, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn.

The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas.

Autobusi iz ZAGREBA polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova.

Bus departures in ZAGREB are an hour and a half prior for domestic flights and two hours prior for international flights.

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ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI? Dragi putnici!

Tina ©ariÊ

Primili smo mnogo vaπih prekrasnih fotografija i zahvaljujemo svima na trudu. Pred nama je proljeÊe, godiπnje doba u kojemu se sve budi i poziva nas da se viπe druæimo i putujemo. Vjerujemo da Êete biti nadahnuti ljepotom dolazeÊeg proljeÊa i fotoaparatom zabiljeæiti lijepe trenutke. Najboljeg autora oËekuju vrijedne nagrade − dvije povratne zrakoplovne karte za odrediπte po izboru na letovima Croatia Airlinesa.

Autora fotografije Igora BoπkiÊa odabrali smo kao najboljega u ovome broju te ga nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa.

Promidžbenim poklon−paketom nagradit Êemo Tinu ©ariÊ i Zrinku Sabadoπ.

Pozivamo vas da nam nastavite slati svoje fotografije jer vas i u iduÊem broju oËekuju vrijedne nagrade.

Dear Passengers,

Putovanja mi otkrivaju da smo ispod razliËite koæe svi isti.

Travelling reveals to me that we are all alike under the skin.

Zrinka Sabadoπ

We have received many of your amazing photographs and would like to thank you all for your efforts. Spring is just ahead of us, a season when everything awakens and invites us to enjoy each other’s company and travel more than usual. We believe you will be inspired by the beauty of the forthcoming spring and record some wonderful moments with your camera. The best authors will be rewarded with valuable prizes − two return air tickets to a destination of their choice on Croatia Airlines’ flights.

We have selected the photograph by Igor BoπkiÊ as the best in this issue and he will be awarded two return tickets on Croatia Airlines’ flights.

Tina ©ariÊ and Zrinka Sabadoπ have won packages of our promotional materials.

We encourage you to continue sending us your photographs because valuable awards are waiting for you in the next issue as well.

Volim pronalaziti prekrasne trenutke na mojim putovanjima.

I love to find amazing moment during travel.

Svaki put, pa tako i put prema novim bojama, osjeÊajima, svjetovima, poËinje prvim korakom.

Every journey begins with a first step, and so does a journey towards new colours, feelings and worlds.

Ana Puh

Mami Kawabata

Onog dana kada se rodiπ, poËeo si postojati, onog dana kad poËneπ putovati svijetom, poËeo si æivjeti!

The day you are born you start to exist, and the day you start travelling the world you start to live!

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Ivona Rovis

WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL?

?????

Paola JukiÊ

Valentina LukiÊ

Samo uæivo mogu upoznati obje strane nove kulture.

I can learn about both sides of a new culture only if I experience it in person.

Putovanja su moje nadahnuÊe i adrenalin.

Travels are my inspiration and my adrenaline.

Igor BoπkiÊ - Prva nagrada/First prize

Putovanja oplemenjuju i nikad neÊemo otkriti veÊ otkriveno. Jer, putujuÊi po svijetu, stvaramo vlastite doæivljaje i otkrivamo svjetove koji su nam se do sada Ëinili dalekima i nestvarnima.

We are enriched by travelling and we will never discover what has already been discovered, because when we travel around the world we create our own experiences and discover the worlds which until now have always seemed so far away and unreal.

Kad putujem, mislim samo na jedno − na svoj put i danaπnji dan.

When I travel I only think about my journey and the present day.

Ana GrubanoviÊ

Peter Hoyer

Volim putovati jer tada nalazim vremena da bih uæivao u skrivenom skladu boja u prirodi.

I like to travel because then I find time and enjoy the hidden harmonies of colour in nature.

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ADDRESSES

ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 616-01-53 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/ugd@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 062-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 *500 za p ozive iz mob ilne mr eže Hr vatske pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 18:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept.

Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 062 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Brojevi telefonskog check-ina / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam WTC, Tower B, Level 4, Schiphol Boulevard 207, 1118 BH Luchthaven Schiphol Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Fax (+31-20) 316-42-81 amsto@croatiaairlines.hr BeË / Wien Airport Office Objekt / Building 645, Room 115-116, A-1300 Wien Flughafen Tel. (+43-1) 7007 359-62 Fax (+43-1) 7007 359-63 vieap@croatiaairlines.hr Bruxelles Brussels Airport Box 31, 1930 Zaventem Airport office: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5133 Airport counter: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik ZraËna luka, Airport Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, 60 313 Frankfurt, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London 2 The Lanchesters, 162-164 Fulham Palace Road, London, W6 9ER, Tel. (+44-20) 8563-00-22, 0844 3710 310 (UK only) Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615

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Airport Heathrow, Room 531, Terminal 1, Zone K Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-46-83 Fax (+44-20) 8754-73-77 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr München Flughafen Franz Josef-Strauss, Terminal 2, Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Büro B.4.1322, 85 356 München, Tel. (+49-89) 97-592-730/731 Fax (+49-89) 97-592-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr Paris Roissypôle, Le Dôme 1, 3th floor Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France 95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-4000 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-5511 parto@croatiaairlines.hr Pula ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-52) 218-909 (+385-52) 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5, 51 000 Rijeka, Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma ZraËna luka, Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci Torre Uffici 2, Room 518 00054 Fiumicino Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo ZraËna luka Sarajevo, Airport Khurta Schorka 36, 71 210 Sarajevo, Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skoplje ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 2561 850 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split Obala hrv. nar. preporoda 9, 21 000 Split, Tel. (+385-21) 362-997, 362-055 (komercijala) Fax (+385-21) 362-567 sputo@croatiaairlines.hr ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb Zrinjevac 17, 10 000 Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 48-19-633 Fax (+385-1) 48-19-632 ZraËna luka Zagreb, Zagreb Airport, 10 150 Zagreb, Pleso Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-585 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Zürich Limmatquai 138, 8001 Zürich, Tel. (+41-44) 261-08-40 Fax (+41-44) 261-08-83 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr

Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe Crna Gora / OKI AIR MONTENEGRO d.o.o.

Ivana VujoševiÊa 46, 81 000 Podgorica Montenegro Tel. (+382-20) 201-201 Tel./Fax (+382-20) 241-154 »eπka CK Blue Sky Travel Na Perštýne 1, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. (+420-2) 2222-2235 Fax (+420-2) 2222-0237 GrËka / Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str. 105 57 Athens, Greece Tel. (+30-210) 32-17-679, 32-17-750 Fax (+30-210) 32-49-152 Kosovo Airtour Head Office: St. Luan Haradinaj #27 10031 Prishtina, Kosovo Tel. (+381-38) 233-833 Fax (+381-38) 245-845 Airport Office: Prishtina International Airport Tel. (+381-38) 594-111 Fax (+381-38) 594-222 Portugal / Global Portugal Representacoes (GRT) Rua Castilho, N˚ 5 − 1˚ andar, Sala 18 1250-066 Lisboa, Portugal Tel. (+351-21) 351-2982 Fax (+351-21) 351-2988 SlovaËka / CK Blue Sky Travel 1. poschodie, Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel. (+421) 5262 2375 Španjolska / Global Representacion Turistica (GRT) c/Valencia, 266, 4/1a 08007 Barcelona Tel. (+34-934) 875-775 Fax (+34-934) 880-121 Turska / ZENITH Services Head Office: Ordu Caddesi, No. 206/1, Laleli 34134 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 513-2667 Fax (+90-212) 512-4234 Airport Office: Istanbul Ataturk Airport International Terminal Departure Floor Yesilkoy 34149 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 465-50-23, 465-40-92 Fax (+90-212) 465-40-92 Bliski istok / Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda St., Migdalor blgd. 12th Floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. (+972-3) 516-7181, 516-7140 Fax (+972-3) 516-7174 SAD / USA Networld Inc. / Croatia America 300 Lanidex Plaza, Parsippany NJ 07054, Tel. (+1-973) 884-3401 Fax (+1-973) 428-3929 Toll free 888-462-7628 Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. (+61-3) 9699-9355 Fax (+61-3) 9699-9388 Novi Zeland / New Zealand Croatia Times Limited Ltd. NZ PO Box 104-056; Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Road, Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. (+64-9) 837-9897 Fax (+64-9) 837-9898 Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo 105-0001 Japan Tel. (+81-3) 3593-6740 Fax (+81-3) 3593-6534

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