Inflight proljeće 2011

CROATIA PUTNI »ASOPIS n

INFLIGHT MAGAZINE

P U T N I

» A S O P I S

n

P R O L J E ∆ E

I N F L I G H T

n

S P R I N G

PROLJE∆E

VA© VLASTITI PRIMJERAK

n

M A G A Z I N E

2 0 1 1

YOUR PERSONAL COPY

n

SPRING 2011

D. FabijaniÊ

DOBRO DO©LI U ZRAKOPLOV!

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com Direktor/President & C.E.O. SreÊko ŠimunoviÊ Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ∆ulumoviÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ Uredniπtvo/Editorial staff Silvana Jakuπ, –uro TomljenoviÊ, Ksenija ÆlofRoman Gebauer, Miljenkbravka

Dragi put­ni­ci!

Dear passengers,

Z

I

adovoljstvo nam je πto ste s nama na joπ jednome od naπih letova. S dolaskom proljetnih dana, a osobito prije poËetka turistiËke sezone, sve je viπe i naπih poslovnih aktivnosti. Stoga mi dopustite da vas s njima upoznam. U ljetnom redu izravnim letovima povezat Êemo dva prelijepa jadranska bisera Dubrovnik i Veneciju, a novost su i letovi iz Dubrovnika u Beograd i Atenu te iz Splita u Hamburg.

Izravno Êemo letjeti i iz Zadra u München i Zürich.

Osim toga, zrakoplovi Croatia Airlinesa letjet Êe iz Zagreba u Istanbul, a opet su uspostavljeni i letovi izmeu Rijeke i Londona, te iz Splita i Dubrovnika za Düsseldorf. Od ljeta u suradnji sa SAS-om povezat Êemo Hrvatsku preko Kopenhagena s New Yorkom i Washingtonom.

Takoer, Croatia Airlines uvodi joπ jednu moguÊnost plaÊanja svojih usluga, a rijeË je o usluzi NetPay unutar Net Bankinga Erste banke, koja vam omoguÊuje fleksibilnost plaÊanja.

Za korisnike telefona Nokia novost je πto Êe se uskoro moÊi koristiti mobilnom aplikacijom Croatia Airlinesa. Korisnicima MaxTV-a dostupna je usluga kupnje naπih zrakoplovnih karata u vlastitom domu.

Urednik fotografije/Photo editor Damir FabijaniÊ Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ PrliÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o.

Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26 Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec

WELCOME ABOARD!

Nekoliko rijeËi i o naπim temama iz ovog broja. Na poËetku objavljujemo intervju s veleposlanikom Europske unije u Republici Hrvatskoj SreÊko ŠimunoviÊ Paulom Vandorenom. Provest Êemo vas u rijeËi i slici kroz impresivnu izloæbu Art déco u zagrebaËkome Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt. U Istri nakratko Êemo zastati u Humu, najmanjem gradu na svijetu, te posjetiti i bajkoviti DraguÊ. Da Rijeka moæe i te kako mnogo toga ponuditi, zacijelo Êete se uvjeriti prolistate li stranice posveÊene tom gradu, treÊemu po veliËini u Hrvatskoj. Ako ste u Zadru, predlaæemo, posjetite Muzej antiËkog stakla. A od naπih odrediπta, vodimo vas u uvijek neodoljivu Veneciju. Predstavljamo i Kaliforniju, zemlju superlativa. Mnogi je tako zovu, a ËitajuÊi naπ tekst, provjerite i zaπto. Onda Êemo se opet vratiti u grad neiscrpne baπtine, Dubrovnik, te svratiti u tamoπnju UmjetniËku galeriju, mjesto gdje umjetnost nastaje.

Cijenjeni putnici, zahvaljujem πto ste nam i ovaj put darovali svoje povjerenje i nadam se da se u naπem zrakoplovu osjeÊate ugodno. Vama i vaπim obiteljima æelim sretne i vesele uskrsne blagdane i radujem se ponovnom susretu s vama na nekome od naπih letova.

t is a pleasure to have you on one of our flights. With the arrival of spring, and especially during the build up to the tourist season, our business activities are intensifying. Allow me to inform you about some of those activities. In the summer flight schedule we will have direct flights connecting two magnificent pearls of the Adriatic, Dubrovnik and Venice. Another novelty is flights from Dubrovnik to Belgrade and Athens, as well as those from Split to Hamburg. We will also have direct flights from Zadar to Munich and Zurich. Croatia Airlines’ aircraft will fly from Zagreb to Istanbul; and once again we have reinstated flights between Rijeka and London, as well as from Split and Dubrovnik to Dusseldorf. Starting this summer, in cooperation with SAS, we will connect Croatia with New York and Washington via Copenhagen.

Croatia Airlines has introduced another flexible payment option for its services: the NetPay facility within the Erste Bank Net Banking network. Good news for Nokia users is the fact that very soon they will have access to the Croatia Airlines mobile phone application. MaxTV subscribers have the privilege of buying our tickets in the comfort of their own homes.

And now, just a few words about the topics covered in this issue of our in-flight magazine. We start with an interview with the European Union ambassador to the Republic of Croatia, Mr. Paul Vandoren. Words and pictures take you through an impressive Art Deco exhibition at Zagreb’s Arts and Crafts Museum. In Istria, we have stopped for a short visit to Hum, the tiniest city in the world, as well as the fairy tale like city of DraguÊ.

The city of Rijeka has a lot to offer visitors. We are sure you will share this impression after having read the pages dedicated to Rijeka, the third largest city in size in Croatia. If you find yourself in Zadar, our tip would be to visit the Museum of Ancient Glass. As for our foreign destinations, we take you to the always irresistible city of Venice. There is also a glimpse of California, a land of superlatives, as many would say. Read the article to understand why. And then, we go back to the city of rich heritage, Dubrovnik, where we pay a visit to the Art Gallery, a place where art is created.

Dear passengers, I thank you for placing your trust in us yet once again. I hope that your flight is comfortable and I wish you and your families happy Easter holidays. I am looking forward to welcoming you again on another of our flights.

Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

SreÊko ©imunoviÊ President & C.E.O.

■ SADRÆAJ 6 Razgovor: Paul Vandoren Dobro je kad zemlja ima toliko raznolikosti kao Hrvatska Veleposlanik Paul Vandoren πef je Delegacije Europske unije u Hrvatskoj. Prije preuzimanja te duænosti priliËno je godina proveo u diplomaciji, a Hrvatsku je doæivio kao zemlju ugodnih, gostoljubivih ljudi.

16 Izloæbe Art dÉco − umjetnost u Hrvatskoj izme–u dva rata Izloæba u zagrebaËkome Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt, kulturni megaprojekt Ëija prezentacija ima sva obiljeæja nevienoga i nezaboravnog spektakla, dokazala je da je art déco u Hrvatskoj imao veliki odjek.

30 Istra Grad iz srca Ka©tela Snaæan osjeÊaj povezanosti postoji u ljepoti draguÊke arhitekture, u æivopisnosti prostora koji, unatoË vremenu, joπ pulsira bez zastajanja.

DraguÊ je biser koji treba Ëuvati od praπine i o njemu skrbiti.

44 Zanimljiva mjesta Mala pri»a o najmanjem gradu na svijetu U pripovijesti o istarskom gradiÊu Humu proËitajte kako je Hum stekao titulu najmanjega grada na svijetu te kako to da u tom gradu ima viπe zabave po stanovniku nego u hrvatskoj metropoli.

58 Muzeji Profinjena ljepota oblika Nanese li vas put u Zadar, svakako posjetite Muzej antiËkog stakla, kako biste kroz priËu o staklu doæivjeli Ëudesnu ljepotu staklenih obliËja i pradavni svijet antike.

72 Obala Rijeka, otvoreni grad okrenut budu∆nosti Rijeka je oduvijek bila, a i danas jest, raskrπÊe novih ideja i senzibiliteta, poveznica mora i kopna, proπlosti i buduÊnosti. Vitalan je to grad, otvoren mladima.

98 Naša odredišta Venecija, druk»ija od drugih Venecija je bajka izrasla na drvenim reπetkama ponad pjeπËanih sprudova. Kad se spoji zraËnim mostom s drugim legendarnim gradom, Ëudovitim Dubrovnikom, bit Êe to Ëarolija bez premca…

112 Meridijani Kalifornija - za svakogA pone©to!

Kalifornija predstavlja mnogo od onoga πto je najbolje u Americi - etniËku raznolikost, æivotnu filozofiju sve je moguÊe i optimizam osvajanja granice.

124 Baπtina ONDJE STANUJE umjetnost Sretna je podudarnost πto je spoj tradicionalnoga i suvremenoga, lokalnoga i internacionalnoga, kakav se moæe naÊi u arhitektonskoj koncepciji vile, i u konceptu na kojemu se temelji program UmjetniËke galerije Dubrovnik.

142 Priroda ©ume najljep©e pjevaju Svijest o vaænosti pluÊa Zemlje neprekidno raste, a 2011., meunarodna godina posveÊena πumi, na simboliËkoj razini pokazuje da Êe πume opet zapjevati punim pluÊima.

150 Tradicija Uskrsni obi»aji u Dalmaciji SjeÊanje na muku i uskrsnuÊe Kristovo obiljeæava se razliËitim obiËajima koji se razlikuju od mjesta do mjesta te predstavljaju tradiciju pojedinog kraja. Svi ti razliËiti uskrsni obiËaji duboko su ukorijenjeni u hrvatskim krajevima.

2

CROATIA AIRLINES

ProljeÊe/Spring 2011

www.croatiaairlines.com

CROATIA AIRLINES

3

■ CONTENTS 6 Interview: Paul Vandoren It’s good for a country to be as varied as Croatia is Ambassador Paul Vandoren is the head of the European Union delegation in the Republic of Croatia.

Prior to accepting this position, he had already spent many years in diplomacy. He sees Croatia as a country of pleasant and hospitable people.

16 Exhibitions Art DÉco and Art in Croatia Between the Two Wars The exhibition at Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts, a cultural megaproject whose presentation has all the makings of a previously unseen and unforgettable spectacle, has proven that Art Déco had a great impact on Croatia.

30 Istria A City that Grew from the Heart of a Castle The powerful sense of connection exists in the beauty of DraguÊ’s architecture, in the vitality of the area which, despite the time, still pulsates without stopping. DraguÊ is a pearl that needs to be saved from the dust and taken care of.

44 Intriguing places A Little Story about the Smallest Town in the World This is a story about Hum. Find out how it earned the title of the world’s smallest town. It provides more entertainment per capita than the capital.

58 Museums The Delicacy of Beautiful Forms Should your travels bring you to Zadar, a visit to the Museum of Ancient Glass would certainly be worth your while. Through stories about glass you can experience the wonderful beauty of the glass shapes and the immemorial ancient world.

72 The Coast Rijeka, A City Open Toward the Future Rijeka has always been, and is still today, a crossroads of new ideas, a connection between the sea and the land, as well as the past and future. It is a vibrant city open to young people.

98 Our destinations Venice, A City Like No Other In the World Venice is a fairytale that has grown from wooden grids above sandy shoals. When it is connected by bridges in the sky with another legendary city, the magical Dubrovnik, it will be the ultimate magical experience...

112 Meridians California − Something for Everyone California represents much of what is best about America − its ethnic diversity, its can-do philosophy and its frontier optimism.

124 Heritage Art LIVES THERE It is a fortunate coincidence that the combinations of traditional and contemporary, local and international in the architectural concept of the villa are also incorporated in the concept behind the programme of the Dubrovnik Art Gallery.

142 Nature Forests Sing the Most Beautifully Awareness of the importance of the earth’s lungs is constantly on the rise. By dedicating the year 2011 entirely to forestry, on a symbolic level this gives hope that the forests will once again sing with full lungs.

150 Traditions Easter Traditions in Dalmatia Remembering Christ’s suffering and resurrection is celebrated with various customs which differ from place to place and represent the traditions of each region. All of the different Easter customs are deeply rooted in the regions of Croatia.

4

CROATIA AIRLINES

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak

This is your personal copy

CROATIA AIRLINES

5

■ RAZGOVOR: Paul Vandoren

6

CROATIA AIRLINES

Piπe/By Ksenija Žlof

Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

INTERVIEW: PAUL VAndoren ■

CROATIA AIRLINES

7

Paul Vandoren, veleposlanik i πef Delegacije Europske unije u Hrvatskoj, veÊ viπe od godinu dana æivi u Zagrebu. S naπim sugovornikom, Belgijancem roenim u Antwerpenu, razgovarali smo o dovrπavanju hrvatskih pristupnih pregovora za Ëlanstvo u Europskoj uniji, ali i o tome kako doæivljava æivot u naπoj zemlji, kako provodi slobodno vrijeme, koje je dijelove Hrvatske posjetio te kako se opuπta na Ëestim putovanjima avionom.

Paul Vandoren, the ambassador and the Head of Delegation of the European Union to the Republic of Croatia, has been living in Zagreb for more than a year. With our interlocutor, a Belgian born in Antwerp, we had a conversation on closing the Croatian negotiations and accession of the Republic of Croatia to European Union but he also spoke about his life in Croatia, about his free time, about parts of Croatia he visited, about his frequent travels and the way he relax while flying.

8

CROATIA AIRLINES

P

aul Vandoren, veleposlanik i πef Delegacije Europske unije u Hrvatskoj, prije preuzimanja spomenute duænosti priliËno je godina proveo u diplomaciji, ali bavio se i drugim razliËitim i istaknutim poslovima. Bio je, primjerice, znanstveni suradnik na Lee Kuan Yew School of Public Policy u Singaporeu, direktor OpÊe uprave Europske komisije za trgovinu u Bruxellesu, a radio je i u meunarodnom bankarstvu.

Prije toga bio je i profesor prava na Pravnom fakultetu SveuËiliπta u Alæiru. Diplomirao je europsko pravo na College of Europe u belgijskom Brugesu, magistrirao na SveuËiliπtu Michigan u ameriËkom Ann Arbouru, a doktorirao na belgijskom sveuËiliπtu Katholieke Univerisiteit Leuven, na kojemu je nedavno imenovan i gostujuÊim profesorom te predaje o temama koje se tiËu pregovaranja o sporazumima o meunarodnom intelektualnom vlasniπtvu.

■ Sada ste veÊ viπe od godine dana u Hrvatskoj. Prije ste æivjeli i radili kao diplomat u mnogim drugim zemljama.

Kakvi su Vaπi dojmovi o Hrvatskoj? Koje ste dijelove Hrvatske posjetili i gdje ste najviπe uæivali i zaπto?

- Proπle sam godine postavio sebi cilj posjetiti sve æupanije. To sam i uËinio, a upoznao sam i sve æupane kao i gradonaËelnike veÊih gradova, πto je za mene bilo izvrsno iskustvo.

To mi je otvorilo oËi, jer po definiciji najviπe vremena provodim u Zagrebu na diplomatskim poslovima i moji su prvi sugovornici u Zagrebu. Ali, pristupanje Hrvatske Europskoj uniji pitanje je koje se tiËe svih graana i zato je vaæno suraivati s regionalnim i lokalnim tijelima vlasti, a takoer i druæiti se s graanima u razliËitim regijama, πto sam ja poËeo raditi. To je vrlo zanimljivo iskustvo, a moram reÊi da sam stekao dojam kako, na lokalnoj razini, i vlasti i graani veoma cijene πto sam doπao razgovarati s njima. Posjetio sam i brodogradiliπta u Rijeci i Splitu, a posjet su pozdravile i uprave i radnici u njima. Lani sam i godiπnji odmor proveo u Hrvatskoj.

Zaπto bih iπao drugamo kad svi dolaze na godiπnji odmor u Hrvatsku? Stoga se koristim prednoπÊu πto sam ovdje na duænosti.

Sa suprugom sam veÊ priliËno putovao po razliËitim dijelovima Hrvatske, da spomenem recimo Slavoniju, u kojoj smo se u prirodi vrlo ugodno proveli, ukljuËujuÊi planinu Papuk.

A posjetili smo i Istru, vrlo privlaËnu regiju vaπe zemlje. Bili smo i u Dubrovniku, i na otoku Visu, divili smo se krasnim slapovima na Plitvicama. Prekrasni su! Potencijali vaπe zemlje zaista su veliki.

■ Hrvatska je joπ 2003. godine podnijela molbu za Ëlanstvo u Europskoj uniji.

Pristupni pregovori bliæe se kraju. Kakva je sadaπnja uloga Delegacije Europske unije kojoj ste na Ëelu i koji su joj glavni zadaci?

- Uloga ove delegacije promijenila se poslije potpune primjene Lisabonskog ugovora, koji je stupio na snagu 1. prosinca 2009. godine.

Od 2010. godine nadalje moja delegacija preuzela je ulogu jedinog predstavnika Europske unije u Hrvatskoj. Tu stavljam naglasak na Europsku uniju, a ne samo Europsku komisiju, kao πto je bilo prije, πto znaËi da je moja delegacija jedini sugovornik hrvatskih tijela vlasti o pitanjima u vezi s Europskom unijom. RijeË je o institucionalnoj promjeni, stoga je tu novost dobro objasniti. Istodobno moj je zadatak, kao πefa delegacije, da s veleposlanicima zemalja Ëlanica Europske unije koordiniram rad na pitanjima u vezi s Europskom unijom.

■ ©to je joπ potrebno da bi se pregovori i zakljuËili?

- Uvijek ponavljam da nije moguÊe toËno predvidjeti trenutak zakljuËenja pregovora.

Naime, nije rijeË o neËemu πto bi se moglo prikazati kao matematiËki zadatak. Na Hrvatskoj je da dovrπi ono πto joπ treba dovrπiti u procesu pregovora, a otvoreno je joπ nekoliko znaËajnijih pitanja. Znamo da je hrvatska vlada odredila lipanj kao svoj ciljni rok dovrπenja pregovora. To je svakako vrlo ambiciozno postavljen cilj. Ali moja delegacija, i Europska komisija, kao i zemlje Ëlanice, nadaju se da Êe se taj cilj ostvariti. Dopustite mi da citiram predsjednika Europske komisije, gospodina Barossa, koji je nedavno rekao da Êe to zahtijevati maksimalan napor.

■ ©to Êe, prema Vaπoj procjeni, Ëlanstvo u Europskoj uniji donijeti hr vatskim graanima?

- Bez oklijevanja tvrdim da Êe buduÊe pristupanje Republike Hrvatske Europskoj uniji graanima donijeti mnogo viπe prednosti nego nedostataka. Postoji nekoliko argumenata koje obiËno pritom navodim. Po mojemu je miπljenju prvi od njih prilika koju Êe Hrvatska imati da se ukljuËi u definiranje politike i u donoπenje odluka na razini Europske unije. To znaËi da Êe, kad Hrvatska postane Ëlanica Europske unije, njezini predstavnici moÊi preko institucija Europske unije sudjelovati u donoπenju vaænih odluka koje Êe imati utjecaja na buduÊnost Hrvatske. Dat Êu vam primjer. Sada se u Bruxellesu raspravlja o vrlo vaænim pitanjima. Ovaj tjedan Europsko vijeÊe treba provesti raspravu o sveopÊoj energetskoj politici Europske unije. To je neπto novo, jer u proπlosti su kompetencije u tom podruËju na razini Europske unije bile tek parcijalne. Drugi je primjer poljoprivred-

na politika Europske unije, a to je jedna od najstarijih i najvaænijih zajedniËkih politika Europske unije, a sada je pod revizijom.

TreÊi je primjer politika konvergencije, kojoj je cilj pokuπati premostiti najveÊa odstupanja meu regijama unutar Europske unije. To se, dakako, onda odnosi i na Hrvatsku i na hrvatsku politiku, jer posrijedi su znaËajna pitanja sredstava Kohezijskih fondova.

Drugi argument koji æelim istaknuti odnosi se na otvaranje jedinstvenog træiπta EU prema Hrvatskoj. Sve prepreke u tom smislu trebaju biti uklonjene do dana kad Hrvatska pristupi EU, πto Êe hrvatskim tvrtkama omoguÊiti neograniËen pristup træiπtu od viπe nego pola milijarde graana, odnosno ako hoÊete, potroπaËa. To je vrlo vaæno za hrvatske tvrtke koje namjeravaju izvoziti robe i usluge, a ja se nadam da Êe mnoge pokazati tu namjeru, i to i u veÊoj mjeri nego πto to Ëine sada.

TreÊa vaæna prednost - i sad se pribliæavam temi koju sam veÊ spominjao, a to je da i u ovoj pretpristupnoj fazi u kojoj smo sada, to znaËi prije uËlanjenja - Hrvatska veÊ ostvaruje prednost koriπtenja odreenih sredstava, πto je omoguÊilo naπoj delegaciji da surauje s hrvatskim tijelima vlasti i institucijama na mnogo podruËja. Raspoloæiva Êe sredstva biti znatno veÊa kad Hrvatska postane Ëlanica EU, te Êe sredstva stavljena na raspolaganje solidarnošÊu zemalja Ëlanica omoguÊiti bræe osuvremenjavanje hrvatskoga gospodarstva i daljnji druπtveni razvoj zemlje. To su, dakle, za mene tri najvaænije prednosti, a uz to, dakako, ide i Ëinjenica da Êe hrvatski graani imati pristup træiπtu rada Europske unije. »lanstvo Hrvatske u Europskoj uniji znaËi da zemlja ulazi u veliku obitelj jednoga globalnog igraËa, πto je važno na svjetskoj razini.

■ Koju imate poruku za hrvatske poduzetnike, kako da uspiju u EU? - Prije svega, Europska je unija veliko træiπte s viπe od pola milijarde potroπaËa. No na tom træiπtu veÊ sada ima mnogo konkurenata.

Ako æele iskoristiti tu zlatnu priliku, ja uvijek potiËem hrvatske tvrtke da analiziraju proizvode koje nude, bez obzira na to jesu li to roba ili usluge, kako bi bili sigurni da potroπaËima u naπih 27 zemalja Ëlanica nude najviπu kvalitetu proizvoda i usluga po najboljoj moguÊoj cijeni. Jedino se tako mogu iskoristiti poslovne prilike koje se nude na tome vrlo kompetitivnom træiπtu, a uz to isto je tako vaæno da hrvatski poduzetnici traæe træiπne niπe u kojima bi mogli prodati svoje proizvode ili usluge. Za to se tvrtke trebaju pripremiti i ja ih potiËem da u tome budu aktivne, jer neÊe træiπte doÊi njima, nego oni trebaju iÊi prema træiπtu. To jest izazov, ali izvedivo je.

■ »esto prisustvujete mnogim vaænim dogaajima u Hrvatskoj, koji nisu samo politiËke prirode. Otvarate konferencije, struËne skupove... Obilazite gospodarske sajmove… Primjerice, otvorili ste prvu meunarodnu konferenciju u organizaciji Hrvatske obrtniËke komore o alternativnom rjeπavanju sporova i moguÊnosti suradnje pravosua i gospodarstva na tom podruËju, kojom je bio obiljeæen i Europski dan pravosua… PotiËete razliËite pozitivne promjene kao, na primjer, otvaranje Hrvatske stranim investitorima…

- Vrlo je dobro imati alternativne naËine rjeπavanja sporova. Sudovi su preoptereÊeni, mnogo je starih a nerijeπenih sluËajeva pred sucima. Neki put i u nekom sluËaju medijator moæe biti u boljem poloæaju nego sudac da rijeπi spor u kraÊem roku. S time imamo vrlo dobra iskustva u naπim zemljama Ëlanicama.

Znam da se takav sustav razvija i u Hrvatskoj i nadam se da Êe i ovdje zaæivjeti. ©to se tiËe stranih ulaganja, siguran sam da Êe se ulaskom Hrvatske u Europsku uniju poveÊati broj prilika za privlaËenje stranih ulaganja. No to zahtijeva reforma. Kad investira, investitor æeli biti siguran da je ono πto kupuje njegovo.

Klima se o tom pitanju u Hrvatskoj mijenja i vidim neke pozitivne trendove, pa se nadam da Êe u buduÊnosti biti moguÊe privuÊi viπe stranih ulaganja u Hrvatsku, na primjer u podruËju energetike, infrastrukture i turizma.

■ Kakvi Vam se Ëine ljudi u Hrvatskoj?

Kako biste opisali tipiËnog Hr vata?

Moæete li usporediti Hrvate s nekim drugim narodom? Ako moæete, πto im je zajedniËko?

- Oduπevljen sam πto sam u Hrvatskoj. Hrvati su vrlo ugodni, gostoljubivi ljudi. Kako je zemlja puna raznolikosti, i karakteri i osobine ljudi uvelike se razlikuju. Na sjeveru osjeÊa se sliËnost sa stilom æivota u Austriji i Maarskoj, za razliku od Dalmacije, koja je bliæa mediteranskom stilu æivota. Iako te razlike i tipovi ljudi postoje, dobro je da svih tih raznolikosti ima u nekoj zemlji. I nadam se da Êe tako i ostati. Zagreb je mjeπavina svega toga, iako bih rekao da je grad ipak viπe kontinentalan, nego mediteranski.

■ Kako provodite slobodno vrijeme? ©to radite u Zagrebu kad ne radite?

- Nemam previπe slobodnog vremena jer posao je vrlo zahtjevan. No zaista ima mnogo zanimljivih prilika da se ode na koncert ili pogleda balet. Joπ uËim hrvatski, πto zahtijeva popriliËno vremena. No svia mi se. Veoma je to zanimljiv napor. Vikendom volim iÊi hodati, osobito na Sljeme, Medvednicu. To je, Ëini se, vrlo popularno. Vidim mnogo Hrvata koji

su u tome dobri i veÊ su rano ujutro na putu prema vrhu. To nisam vidio nigdje drugdje u Europi. A na Medvednici se moæe naÊi i dobre hrane i piÊa.

■ ©to mislite o hrani i vinu u Hrvatskoj, te o gastronomiji opÊenito?

- Meni su veoma ukusni tradicionalni proizvodi: sir, vrhnje, kolaËi, vino i rakija…Takoer rado subotom ujutro kupujem na trænici Dol-cu u Zagrebu. U Slavoniji sam kuπao mlado vino… Dakako, svi æele posjetiti prekrasnu hrvatsku obalu i otoke, ali smatram da i kontinentalni dijelovi zemlje imaju πto ponuditi. Ovo je fantastiËna zemlja, a njezine su raznolikosti goleme, zbog Ëega je vrlo privlaËna.

■ Zacijelo mnogo putujete, πto onda znaËi da vjerojatno i mnogo letite. ©to obiËno radite tijekom leta?

- Unutar Hrvatske uvijek letim Croatia Airlinesom, no popriliËno putujem i izmeu Zagreba i Bruxellesa i opet uvijek letim Croatia Airlinesom. Dok sam u avionu, obiËno Ëitam, jer trebam se pripremiti za sljedeÊi govor koji Êu odræati ondje kamo letim, a i pokuπavam nadoknaditi Ëitanje svega onoga πto nisam stigao proËitati u uredu.

■

B

efore taking the position of the Ambassador and the Head of Delegation of the European Union to the Republic of Croatia, Paul Vandoren spent quite a period in diplomacy, and he also worked on various other demanding positions. For example, he was Visiting Research Fellow at the Lee Kuan Yew School of Public Policy at the National University of Singapore. He is a former Director a.i. at the Directorate-General for Trade at the European Commission in Brussels.

Before joining the European Commission, Paul Vandoren worked in international banking and, previously, he was Professor of law at the LawSchool of the University of Algiers (Algeria).

Paul Vandoren graduated in European Law at the College of Europe in Bruges (Belgium).

He also holds Master’s Degree in Comparative Law from the University of Michigan in Ann Arbor (USA) and the degree of Doctor in Law from the Katholieke Universiteit Leuven (Belgium), where he was recently appointed Visiting Professor on subjects concerning negotiating international intellectual property rights agreements.

■ You have been in Croatia for more than a year. Prior to this you were working as a diplomat in many other locations. What is your impression of Croatia? What parts of Croatia have you visited and enjoyed most? Why? CROATIA AIRLINES

9

- Last year I had set the objective for myself to visit all the counties. I did this, and I also met all the prefects and the mayors of the major cities, which was an excellent experience for me. It opened my eyes because, by definition, I spend most of my time in Zagreb as a diplomat, and my primary interlocutors are in Zagreb. However, the accession of Croatia to the European Union is an issue for all of the citizens in the republic, and therefore it is also important to work with the regional and local authorities, and of course to reach out to the citizens in the regions, which is what I have started to do. I find it very interesting and I have learned a lot by meeting the people in the regions. I must also say that my impression is that the local authorities and people greatly appreciated that I came out to speak with them. I also visited the shipyards in Rijeka and Split, which was also greatly appreciated by the management and the workers. I spent my holidays here in Croatia last year. Why would I go somewhere else when everyone comes to Croatia on holiday?

So, being based here, I took advantage of that. My wife and I have already visited quite a few parts of Croatia, for example Slavonia, where we spent a very nice time in the countryside, including in the Papuk mountains. We also visited Istria, which is a very attractive part of the country. We also went to Dubrovnik, spent some time on the island of Vis, and we admired the wonderful waterfalls in Plitvice. Beautiful! You have such potential in this country.

■ Croatia applied for EU membership in 2003 and negotiations are nearly finished at this point. What is currently the role and which are the key tasks of the EU Delegation that you are the head of?

- The role of this delegation has changed with the full implementation of the Lisbon Treaty. The Lisbon Treaty came into force on 1 December 2009, and in the course of 2010 my delegation assumed, and continues to assume, exclusive representation on behalf of the European Union; here I would stress the European Union, and not only the European Commission as before. In other words, my delegation is the only interlocutor with the government on EU related matters in Croatia. It is an institutional change, so it is better to clarify this. At the same time, it is now up to me, as the head of my delegation, to coordinate with the ambassadors of the EU member states the work on EU related matters.

■ What is still needed to close negotiations?

- I always say that it is impossible to predict 10

CROATIA AIRLINES

when the negotiations will be concluded because this is not a mathematical exercise and it is up to Croatia to finish what remains to be done in the context of the negotiations, and there are still a few major challenges.

We know that the government of Croatia has set an objective to conclude negotiations by June. It is certainly very ambitious but my delegation, the Commission, and the member states in general very much hope that this will be the case. And to quote a statement by the president of the European Commission, José Manuel Barrosso, it will require an all out push.

■ In your view, what will EU membership bring to the citizens of Croatia ?

- I will not hesitate to say that there are many more advantages than disadvantages regarding the future accession of the Republic of Croatia to the EU. There are a few arguments I usually put forward. In my view, the first one is that in the future Croatia will have the opportunity to take part in policy shaping and decision making at the European level.

This means that when Croatia is a member of the European Union, its representatives will be able to take part in making important decisions at European Union institutions which will affect Croatia’s future way of life. To give you one example; there are currently very important subjects on the table in Brussels.

This week the European Council will debate on a full-fledged European Union energy policy. This is new, as in the past there were only partial competencies in this field at the level of the European Union. The second example is that the agricultural policy of the European Union is being reviewed, which is one of the oldest and most important common policies of the European Union. The third example is the convergence policy, which aims to bridge major differences between regions in the European Union, and of course this will also apply to Croatia and Croatian policy in terms of important matter of finance, the Cohesion Fund.

The second argument that I would like to mention has to do with the opening of the single market to Croatia. All obstacles should be eliminated by the day Croatia becomes a member of the European Union. This means that without restrictions Croatian companies will be able to have access to a market of more than half a billion citizens, or if you wish, consumers. This is important for Croatian companies that intend to export goods and services, which I hope many will do, even more than they do now. The third important advantage, and this is similar to an issue I have already touched on before, is that

throughout this pre-accession phase, which we are in until Croatia becomes a member of the European Union, Croatia has already significantly benefited from EU funding in a wide variety of areas. This funding will increase substantially once Croatia is a member, and based on the solidarity of our member states to make funding available, they will contribute to Croatia’s modernization of the economy and fur ther social development. In my opinion, these are the three most important advantages. In addition, of course, is the fact that individuals will have access to the labour market in the European Union. By becoming a member of the European Union, Croatia will be part of a big family, a global player, which really matters in this world.

■ What is your message to Croatian entrepreneurs; how can their businesses prosper in the EU? - First of all, the market will be huge, more than half a billion consumers. However, this is already a highly competitive market. In order to be able to benefit from this golden opportunity, I regularly encourage Croatian companies to take a look at the products they offer, whether material products or services, in order to ensure that they can offer the consumers in our current 27 member states the highest quality products and service at the best possible price in order to take advantage of this highly competitive market.

When doing so it is important for Croatian entrepreneurs to look for niche markets where they can sell their goods or services.

The companies have to prepare themselves for that and I encourage the companies to do so very actively, because the market will not come to them, they have to go to the market.

This is a challenge, but it is doable.

■ You of ten attend many impor tant events in Croatia which are not all of a political nature; the opening of conferences, professional gatherings... You visit economic fairs... For example, you opened the conference organized by the Croatian Chamber of Trades and Crafts entitled the First International Conference Alternative Dispute Resolution ∑ Possibilities of Cooperation between the Judiciary and Economic Sectors, which marked the European Day of Civil Justice... Also, you encourage various positive changes, for example, the opening of Croatia to foreign investors...

- It is very good to have alternative ways of solving disputes. The courts are overloaded and judges are extremely backlogged.

Sometimes, for certain issues, mediators are better and faster than judges in terms

of reaching solutions. Our member states have very good experiences with mediators.

I know it is being developed in Croatia and I hope that it will take off here as well. As for foreign investments, I am sure that with the accession of Croatia to the European Union, the opportunities for attracting foreign investments will increase, but this requires reforms.

If someone is going to invest, that investor wants to be sure that what he is buying really belongs to him. The climate about this matter in Croatia is changing, I am seeing some positive signs, so I hope that in the future it will be possible to attract more foreign investments in Croatia, for example in the field of energy, infrastructure and tourism.

■ How do you find people in Croatia? How would you describe a typical Croatian?

Could you compare Croatians to any other nation? If so, what do they have in common?

- I am delighted to be in Croatia. Croatians are very nice people, hospitable people. As the country is so diverse, the characters and the characteristics of the people differ a lot. In the northern parts the people are very similar to the Austrian and Hungarian style, while in Dalmatia they have more of a Mediterranean style. The types and differences are quite obvious, but nevertheless it is good that you manage to bring them together in one country. I hope that will continue to be the case. Zagreb is a mixture of all that, although I would say more continental than Mediterranean.

■ How do you like to spend your free time? What do you do in Zagreb when you are not working? What parts of Zagreb do you like best?

- I do not have very much free time. The work is very demanding. Indeed, there are many very interesting opportunities for attending concerts or watching ballets. I am still studying the Croatian language, which is quite a time consuming exercise, but I love it.

It is quite an interesting exercise. During the weekends I like to go hiking, particularly on Sljeme, Medvednica. This seems to be very popular here. I see very many Croats who are good hikers, and they are up in the mountains very early. I have not seen that anywhere else in Europe. You can also find something great to eat and drink on Medvednica as well.

■ What is your opinion about Croatian food, wine and gastronomy in general?

- I very much like the traditional products: the cheeses, creams, sweets, the wine and rakija… I also love to do my shopping at Dolac market in Zagreb on Saturday mornings. In Slavonia I tasted the new wine. Of course

everyone wants to go to the beautiful seaside and islands, but I think that there are also many opportunities in the rest of the country.

It is a fantastic country and the diversities are so immense; it is so attractive.

■ You surely travel a lot, which probably means that you also fly a lot. What do you usually do while flying?

- Within Croatia I always fly with Croatia Airlines, but I also travel quite a lot between Zagreb and Brussels, and even then I always fly with Croatia Airlines. While flying I tend to read a lot because I usually have to prepare for a speech that I will deliver whereever I am flying to, and I catch up on the reading that I was not able to finish in the office.

■

Oduπevljen sam πto sam u Hrvatskoj. Hrvati su vrlo ugodni, gostoljubivi ljudi. Kako je zemlja puna raznolikosti, i karakteri i osobine ljudi uvelike se razlikuju. Zagreb je mjeπavina svega toga, iako bih rekao da je grad ipak viπe kontinentalan, nego mediteranski.

I am delighted to be in Croatia. Croatians are very nice people, hospitable people. As the country is so diverse, the characters and the characteristics of the people differ a lot. Zagreb is a mixture of all that, although I would say more continental than Mediterranean.

CROATIA AIRLINES

11

HRVATSKA Republika

To je Hrvatska Re­pu­bli­ka Hrvat­ska smjeπte­na je uz istoË­ne oba­le Ja­dran­skog mo­ra i u nje­go­vu za­le­u. Pro­teæe se od obro­na­ka Al­pa na sje­ve­ro­za­pa­du do Pa­non­ske rav­ni­ce na isto­ku. Povrπina je nje­zi­na kop­na 56.542 Ëe­tvor­na ki­lo­me­tra, a povrπina te­ri­to­rijal­nog mo­ra 31.067 Ëe­tvor­nih ki­lo­me­ta­ra. U Hrvat­ skoj æivi, pre­ma po­pi­su iz 2001. go­di­ne, 4,437.460 lju­di. Duæina je mor­ske oba­le 5835 km za­jed­no s oto­ci­ma, oto­Ëi­Êi­ma i gre­be­ni­ma.

CROATIA Republic of

National parks Cro­a­tia has eig­ht na­ti­o­nal par­ks, fo­ur of which are lo­ca­ted in the mo­un­ta­in re­gi­on (Pa­kle­ni­ca, Pli­tvi­ce La­kes, Ri­snjak and Nor­thern Ve­le­bit), and fo­ur in the co­a­stal re­gi­on (Bri­ju­ni, Kor­na­ti, Krka and Mljet).

Be­si­des the­se, cer­ta­in are­as un­der strict na­tu­re pro­tec­ti­on ∑ re­ser­ves, na­tu­ral mo­nu­men­ts and na­tu­ral par­ks ∑ sho­uld be men­ti­on ­ ed as a na­tu­ral he­ri­ta­ge of spe­ci­al va­lue. They ha­ve all con­tri­bu­

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Izravne domaÊe linije Direct domestic routes Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines’ destinations stalne / regular sezonske zimske / seasonal in winter

............................................

Oto­ka, oto­Ëi­Êa i gre­be­na ima 1185, a na­se­lje­no je 47 oto­ka.

Sluæbe­ni je­zik je­st hrvat­ski, a pi­smo la­ti­niË­no. Nov­Ëa­na je­di­ni­ca - ku­na.

Glav­ni je grad Za­greb (779.145 sta­nov­ni­ka), ko­ji je ujed­no ad­mi­ni­s­tra­tiv­no, kul­tur­no, aka­dem­sko i trgo­vaË­ko sre­diπte zem­lje.

Ustav Re­pu­bli­ke Hrvat­ske iz­gla­san je 22. pro­sin­ca 1990., a me­u­na­rod­no je pri­zna­ta 15. si­jeË­nja 1992. go­di­ne.

This is Croatia The Re­pu­blic of Cro­a­tia li­es along the ea­st co­as­ t of the Adri­a­tic Sea and its hin­ter­land. It stret­ches from the slo­pes of the Al­ps in the nor­th-we­st to the Pan­no­ni­an Pla­in in the ea­st. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its ter­ri­to­ri­al sea is 31,067 km2. By the 2001 cen­sus, Cro­at­ia’s popu­ la­ti­on is 4,437,460. The len­gth of its sea co­a­st is 5835 km, in­clu­ding islan­ds, islets and re­efs.

The­re are 1185 islan­ds, islets and re­efs, of which 47 islan­ds are in­ha­bi­ted.

The of­fi­ci­al lan­gu­a­ge is Cro­a­ti­an, and the of­fic ­ i­al script is La­tin. The cur­ren­cy is the Ku­na.

The ca­pi­tal is Za­greb (779,145 in­ha­bi­tan­ts), which is al­so the co­un­try’s ad­mi­ni­s­tra­ti­ve, cul­tu­ral, aca­ de­mic and eco­no­mic cen­ter.

The Con­sti­tu­ti­on of the Re­pu­blic of Cro­a­tia was adop­ted on 22 De­cem­ber 1990, and the co­untry re­ce­i­ved in­ter­na­ti­o­nal re­cog­ni­ti­on on 15 Ja­nu­ary 1992.

Nacionalni parkovi ­­Hrvat­ska ima osam na­ci­o­nal­nih par­ko­va, od kojih su Ëe­ti­ri u pla­nin­skom po­dru­Ëju (Pa­kle­ni­ca, Pli­tviËka je­ze­ra, Ri­snjak i Sje­ver­ni Ve­le­bit), a Ëe­ti­ri na obal­nom po­dru­Ëju (Bri­ju­ni, Kor­na­ti, Krka i Mljet). Nji­ ma, kao pro­stor oso­bi­to vri­jed­ne pri­rod­ne baπti­ne, tre­ba pri­do­da­ti i po­dru­Ëja pod stro­gom zaπti­tom pri­ro­de, re­zer­va­te, spo­me­ni­ke pri­ro­de, par­ko­ve pri­ ro­de. Zbog svih za­jed­no Hrvat­sku mno­gi sma­tra­ju jed­nim od naj­ljepπih eu­rop­skih vrto­va.

12

CROATIA AIRLINES

ted to Cro­a­tia’s be­ing con­si­de­red one of the mo­st be­a­u­ti­ful gar­dens of Eu­ro­pe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvat­ska obi­lu­je kul­tur­no-po­vi­je­snim spo­me­ ni­ci­ma iz svih ra­zdob­lja, zbog bur­nih po­vi­je­snih zbi­va­nja i pre­pli­ta­nja utje­ca­ja ra­zli­Ëi­tih kul­tu­ra.

Nje­zi­nu oba­lu ka­rak­te­ri­zi­ra­ju utje­ca­ji me­di­te­ran­ ske kul­tu­re, mno­gi an­tiË­ki spo­me­ni­ci, spo­me­ ni­ci rim­skog ra­zdob­lja i ra­no­ga sred­njeg vi­je­ka, ro­ma­niË­ko-sa­kral­na baπti­na, te niz oËu­va­nih ka­rak­te­ri­stiË­nih me­di­te­ran­skih ur­ba­nih cje­li­na.

Kon­ti­nen­tal­na Hrvat­ska dio je sred­njo­e­u­rop­sko­ ga kul­tur­nog kru­ga i isti­Ëe se mno­gim pra­po­vi­ je­snim na­la­zi­ma sv­jet­ske vaæno­sti, sta­rim gra­ do­vi­ma, utvrda­ma i dvor­ci­ma ka­sno­ga sred­njeg vi­je­ka i kul­tur­nim spo­me­ni­ci­ma i ar­hi­tek­tu­rom iz ra­zdob­lja ba­ro­ka.

Tri hrvat­ske ur­ba­ne cje­li­ne i dva spo­me­niË­ka kom­plek­sa ima­ju sta­tus spo­me­ni­ka sv­jet­ske kul­tur­ne baπti­ne, ko­ji do­dje­lju­je Une­sco. To su ka­sno­an­tiË­ka Di­o­kle­ci­ja­no­va pa­la­Ëa, pre­gra­e­na ti­je­kom sto­lje­Êa u sred­njov­je­kov­ni Split, gra­do­vi Du­brov­nik i Tro­gir te Eu­fra­zi­je­va ba­zi­li­ka u Po­re­Ëu i ka­te­dra­la sv. Ja­ko­va u ©ibe­ni­ku.

Na­ci­o­nal­ni park Pli­tviË­ka je­ze­ra, naj­ljepπi i najpozna­ti­ji hrvat­ski na­ci­o­nal­ni park, ta­ko­er je dio Une­sco­ve Sv­jet­ske baπti­ne.

A past for the present Cro­a­tia is rich in cul­tu­ral and hi­sto­ri­cal monuments from all eras, due to the tur­bu­lent even­ts of hi­story and the in­ter­la­cing of in­flu­en­ces of dif­fe­rent cul­tu­ res. Its co­a­st is cha­rac­te­ri­zed by the in­flu­ences of Me­di­ter­ra­ne­an cul­tu­re, nu­me­ro­us an­ci­ent re­ma­ins, mo­nu­men­ts of the Ro­man era and ear­ly Mid­dle Ages, a Ro­ma­ne­sque chur­ch he­ri­ta­ge and a num­ ber of di­stin­cti­ve Me­di­ter­ra­ne­an ur­ban en­ti­ti­es that ha­ve be­en pre­ser­ved. Inland Cro­a­tia is a part of the Cen­tral Eu­ro­pe­an cul­tu­ral circle and is di­stin­gu­i­shed by nu­me­ro­us

pre­hi­sto­ric fin­din­gs of wor­ld sig­ni­fi­cance, by old tow­ns, for­tre­sses and ca­s­tles da­ting from the la­te Mid­dle Ages, and cul­tu­ral mo­nu­men­ts and ar­chi­tec­tu­re from the Ba­ro­que era.

Three Cro­at­i­an ci­ti­es and two mo­nu­men­tal com­ple­xes ha­ve the sta­tus of mo­nu­men­ts of wor­ld cul­tu­ral he­ri­ta­ge ac­cor­ded by UNE­SCO. The­se are the La­te An­ti­que Pa­la­ce of Di­o­cle­ti­an, re­mo­ de­led thro­ugh the cen­tu­ri­es in­to the me­di­e­val city of Split, the ci­ti­es of Du­brov­nik and Tro­gir, the Ba­si­li­ca of Eup­hra­si­us in Po­reË and the Cat­he­dral of St. Jacob in ©ibe­nik.

The na­ti­o­nal park of the Pli­tvi­ce La­kes, Cro­a­tia’s mo­st be­au ­ ­ti­ful and ce­le­bra­ted na­ti­o­nal park, is al­so a part of UNE­SCO’s wor­ld he­ri­ta­ge.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvat­ska je po­sljed­njih go­di­na - ocje­nju­ju meu­na­rod­ni tu­ri­stiË­ki znal­ci i sta­ti­sti­Ëa­ri - naj­ve­ Êe tu­ri­stiË­ko izne­na­e­nje te hit odre­di­πte na Sre­do­zem­lju.

Niz us­pjeπnih go­di­na na­stav­lja se ∑ su­gla­sni su ana­li­ti­Ëa­ri tu­ri­stiË­kih pri­li­ka ∑ i u 2009. go­di­ni.

Pre­ma po­da­ci­ma Dræav­nog za­vo­da za sta­ti­sti­ku, hrvat­ska je tu­ri­stiË­ka odre­diπta na oto­ci­ma, u pri­o­ ba­lju te u kon­ti­ne­ntal­nom di­je­lu zem­lje, uk­lju­Ëu­ju­Êi i glav­ni grad Za­greb,

u 2010. go­di­ni po­sje­ti­lo oko 11 mi­li­ju­na tu­ri­sta od ko­jih je ino­zem­nih bi­lo oko 9,4 mi­li­ju­na.

Os­tva­re­no je ukup­no oko 56,4 mi­li­ju­na no­Êe­nja.

Pri­tom je broj ino­zem­nih no­Êe­nja bio oko 50,7 mi­li­ju­na. Tra­di­ci­o­nal­no naj­broj­ni­ji go­sti, Ni­jem­ci, prvo su mje­sto za­dræa­li i u 2010. go­di­ni (22,5 %), a njih sli­je­de go­sti iz Slo­ve­ni­je (11,5 %), Italije (9,3 %), Austrije (8,7 %), »e­πke (8,2 %), Polj­ske (5,7 %), Nizozemske (4,4 %)...

Ho­te­li, tu­ri­stiË­ka na­se­lja, kam­po­vi i sve dru­ge vrste smjeπta­ja, kao i mo­der­ni na­ut­iË­ki cen­tri, oprem­lje­ni su u skla­du s me­u­na­rod­nim tu­ri­ stiË­kim stan­dar­di­ma. Bo­ga­ta kul­tur­na po­nu­ da, wel­lne­ss po­nu­da, spor­tsko-re­kre­a­tiv­ni i za­bav­ni sa­dræaji, mno­gi ki­lo­me­tri ure­e­ nih pjeπaË­kih sta­za ili pak vin­ske sta­ze, izle­ti ko­ji uk­lju­Ëu­ju ra­z­gle­da­va­nje pri­ rod­nih i kul­tur­nih vri­jed­no­sti ili pak pra­vi spoj doæiv­lja­ja i avan­tu­rizma po­ve­Êa­va­ju adre­na­lin...

Hrvat­ska je bli­zu ne sa­mo zbog nje­zi­ne geograf­ske bli­zi­ne, ne­go i zbog mreæe zraË­nih lu­ka i kva­li­ tet­nih uslu­ga na­ci­o­nal­nog avi­o­pri­je­vo­zni­ka Croatia Air­li­ne­sa, kao i dru­gih zraË­nih pri­je­vo­zni­ka. Na te­me­lju mreæe au­to­ce­sta i po­lu­a­u­to­ce­sta, Hrvat­ska je i ce­stom bliæa ne­go ikad. Ako ste pak oda­bra­li od­mor na jed­no­me od mno­gih hrvat­skih oto­ka, pri­je­voz tra­jek­tom ili hi­dro­gli­se­rom s kop­na tra­jat Êe - i kad su po­sri­je­di oni na­ju­da­lje­ni­ji - ma­nje od 2 sa­ta. Ali nji­ho­va lje­po­ta i ne­po­sre­dan do­dir s iskon­ skom pri­ro­dom bit Êe ta­ko ne­za­bo­rav­ni kao da ste od sva­kod­ne­vi­ce mi­lja­ma i mi­lja­ma da­le­ko...

Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Cro­a­tia has be­en a hit de­sti­na­ti­on and the bigge­st to­u­ri­st sur­pri­se in the Me­di­ter­ra­ne­an in the pa­st few ye­ars, say sta­ti­sti­ci­ans and in­ter­na­ti­o­nal ex­ per­ts in to­u­ri­sm.

To­u­ri­st anal­ysts are agre­ed that a se­ri­es of suc­ce­ s­sful ye­ars is due to con­ti­nue in 2010.

Ac­cor­ding to da­ta pro­vi­ded by the Cro­a­ti­an Bu­ re­au of Sta­ti­stics, Cro­a­ti­an to­u­ri­st de­sti­na­ti­ons on the islan­ds, co­a­st and in the in­te­ri­or, in­clu­ding the ca­pi­tal Za­greb 2010 we­re vi­si­ted by nearly 11 million to­u­ri­sts, of whom 9.4 mil­li­on we­re fo­ re­ign gu­es­ ts.

The to­tal num­ber of over­nig­ht stays was more than 56.4 mil­li­on, of which fo­re­ign vi­si­tors ac­ co­un­ted for 50.7 mil­li­on. The lar­ge­st number of fo­re­ign gu­e­sts ca­me from Ger­many (22,5 %), fol­lo­wed by Slo­ve­nia (11,5 %), Italy (9,3 %), Austria (8,7 %), the Czech Re­pu­blic (8,2 %), Po­land (5,7 %) the Net­her­lan­ds (4,4 %)...

Ho­tels, to­ur­ i­st si­tes, cam­ps and ot­her types of ac­com­mo­da­ti­on, as well as mo­dern na­u­ti­cal cen­ters, are equ­ip­ped in li­ne with in­ter­na­ti­o­nal to­ur­ i­sm stan­dar­ds. The­re is a rich cul­tu­ral of­fer,

to­get­her with wel­lne­ss, spor­ts, re­cre­a­ti­o­nal and en­ter­ta­in­ment fa­ci­li­ti­es, many ki­lo­me­ters of well-kept fo­ot­pat­hs or wi­ne ro­ads, ex­cur­si­ons in­clu­ding sig­ht-se­e­ing of na­tu­ral and cul­tu­ral tre­ a­su­res, or the right com­bi­na­ti­on of ex­pe­ri­en­ce and adven­tu­re to ra­i­se the adre­na­lin le­vel...

Cro­a­tia is clo­se by, not ju­st ge­og ­ rap­hi­cal­ly, but thanks to its air­port net­work and the high-qu­al­ity ser­vi­ce of its na­ti­on ­ al air com­pany, Cro­a­tia Air­lines, be­si­des ot­her air com­pa­ni­es. The net­work of ne­wly bu­ilt fre­e­ways and se­mi-fre­ew ­ ays me­ans that Cro­a­tia is ea­si­er to re­ach by ro­ad than ever.

If you ha­ve cho­sen to spend yo­ur va­ca­ti­on on one of Cro­a­tia’s many islan­ds, the cro­ssing by fer­ry or hydro­fo­il bo­at will ta­ke you ∑ even for the mo­st re­mo­te islan­ds ∑ le­ss than two ho­urs. Yet the­ir bea­uty and the im­me­di­a­te con­tact with vir­gin na­tu­re will be un­for­get­ta­ble, as if you we­re mi­les and mi­les away from the ever­yday wor­ld...

Novac i naËin plaÊanja Ku­na (kn) je na­ziv nov­Ëa­ne je­di­ni­ce Re­pu­bli­ke Hrvat­ske.

U op­tje­ca­ju su nov­Ëa­ni­ce ku­na i ko­va­ni no­vac ku­na i li­pa (lp) ∑ sto­ti dio ku­ne. Nov­Ëa­ni­ce su izda­ne u slje­de­Êim apo­e­ni­ma - 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 ku­na, a ko­va­ni no­vac - 1, 2 i 5 ku­na, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 li­pa (100 li­pa = 1 ku­na). Mo­gu­Êe je pla­ Êa­nje kre­dit­nim kar­ti­ca­ma (Di­ners, Vi­sa, Ame­ri­can Ex­pre­ss, Eu­ro­card i Ma­ster­card) i eu­ro­Ëe­ko­vi­ma.

No­vac se moæe po­di­za­ti i na ban­ko­ma­ti­ma.

Currency and payment methods The cur­ren­cy of the Re­pu­blic of Cro­a­tia is cal­led the Ku­na (kn).

In cir­cu­la­ti­on are ban­kno­tes in Ku­na and co­ins in Ku­na and Li­pa (lp) ∑ one hun­dred­th of a Ku­na. The ban­kno­tes are issu­ed in the fol­lo­wing de­no­mi­na­ti­ ons: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Ku­na, whi­le the de­no­mi­na­ti­on struc­tu­re of the co­ins is 1, 2 and 5 Ku­na and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Li­pa (100 Li­pa = 1 Ku­na). Pay­men­ts can be ma­de by cre­dit card (Di­ners, Vi­sa, Ame­ri­can Ex­pre­ss, Eu­ro­card and Ma­ster­card), as well as eu­ro-chec­ks. Ca­sh can be wit­hdrawn from AT­Ms.

CROATIA AIRLINES

13

14

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

15

16

CROATIA AIRLINES

■ IZLOŽBE EXIHIBITIONS

Izloæba zagrebaËkog Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt Art déco i umjetnost u Hrvatskoj izmeu dva rata, kulturni je megaprojekt Ëija prezentacija ima sva obiljeæja nevienoga i nezaboravnog spektakla.

Pripremana je dugo, paæljivo i sveobuhvatno, ali ne samo za Zagreb i Hrvatsku, nego i za Europu, za koju je ovaj muzej veÊ odavna znaËajna institucija.

Preko postava od 700 izloæaka, ravnatelj muzeja i njegovi suradnici dokazali su da Hrvatska nije bila izolirani otok u razdoblju avangardnih pluralizama, posebice art décoa, kao πto se dosad uglavnom tumaËilo, nego da je, πtoviπe, art déco, kao jedini globalni stil, meunarodni, tj. svjetski, u Hrvatskoj imao i te kako veliki odjek i dao znaËajne rezultate.

Piše/By Anelka MustapiÊ Fotografije/Photos Arhiva muzeja

J

e li art déco umjetniËki stil izmeu dva svjetska rata, ili mnoπtvo trendova i pojava, ili, opÊenito reËeno, fenomen modernog doba, odnosno umjetnost æivljenja: iskljuËivo urbanoga, a ludoga, luksuznoga, glamuroznoga, pomodnoga i neobuzdanoga ∑ dugo je i za povjesniËare umjetnosti i teoretiËare bila zagonetka. Nije uspio Ëak ni pokuπaj definiranja art décoa kao povijesno-umjetniËke kategorije, Ëemu se teæilo vrlo znaËajnom izloæbom Les Années ’25: Art déco /Bauhaus/Stijl/L’Esprit Nouveau, odræanoj u Musée des Arts Décoratifs u Parizu 1966. godine. Ona je znaËila svojevrsnu CROATIA AIRLINES

17

The exhibition at Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts Art Deco and Art in Croatia Between the Two Wars is a cultural mega-project whose presentation has all the makings of a previously unseen and unforgettable spectacle. The preparations were long, careful and comprehensive, not only for Croatia and its capital Zagreb, but also for Europe, which has long recognised the significance of this museum. With a collection that numbers more than 700 displays, the direc18

CROATIA AIRLINES

tor of the museum and his associates have shown that Croatia, contrary to popular belief, was not an isolated island during the period spanning Avant-Garde and Pluralisms, and certainly not during Art Deco. Quite the opposite is true, as a matter of fact. As the only global, international, i.e. worldwide spread style, Art Deco had a great impact in Croatia and resulted in significant artistic achievements.

CROATIA AIRLINES

19

20

CROATIA AIRLINES

rekapitulaciju artdécoovskog razdoblja, i bila posveÊena glasovitoj pariπkoj izloæbi Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes iz 1925. (Meunarodna izloæba dekorativnih umjetnosti), koju je posjetilo Ëetrnaest milijuna posjetitelja i na kojoj je stvoreno ime stila. Odgovor se nije dobio ni na dosad najznaËajnijoj izloæbi za recepciju art décoa, prireenoj pod istoimenim nazivom u londonskome Muzeju Victoria&Albert 2003., inaËe najveÊemu muzeju primijenjene umjetnosti i dizajna na svijetu, koja je, kao novost u cijelome kontroverznom kontekstu umjetniËkih pluralizama, art déco proπirila na vrijeme od 1910. do 1939. godine.

Po sudu Miroslava GaπparoviÊa, ravnatelja zagrebaËkog Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt te voditelja projekta i jednog od autora koncepcije izloæbe Art déco. Umjetnost u Hrvatskoj izmeu dva rata, otvorenoj 26. sijeËnja, prije svega kao kulturno-povijesni prikaz estetike i stilizacije razdoblja izmeu tek okonËanoga Prvoga svjetskog rata do 1939., dakle nove kataklizme, art déco jest prvi pravi globalni stil, koji se pojavljuje na svim kontinentima, i amalgam tadaπnjih paralelizama.

- U tom razdoblju preplitanja i preklapanja razliËitih stilskih izriËaja ∑ naglasio je ravnatelj GaπparoviÊ - jedna od struja koja ga je oznaËila bio je i art déco, kompozitni stil koji je u prvom redu percipiran kroz primijenjene umjetnosti, grafiËki dizajn i ilustraciju. Ali, zbog velike proπirenosti art déco je neminovno utjecao i na hrvatsko slikarstvo, u koje ulazi 1921. izloæbom Save ©umanoviÊa, uËenika slikarske πkole Andréa Lhotea, Ëija su djela postkubistiËke orijentacije bila jedan od temelja slikarstva art déco i bitno utjecala na hrvatske umjetnike, Lhoteove uËenike: ©umanoviÊa, Sergija Glumca i Sonju KovaËeviÊ TajËeviÊ.

Drugi znaËajan pravac dolazi iz Praga preko tzv. praπke Ëetvorke. Povratak iz Praga Milivoja Uzelca, Vilka Gecana, Marijana Trepπea i Vladimira Varlaja 1919. u Zagreb i njihova djela odredila su smjer koji je konvergirao s postkubistiËkim ©umanoviÊevim utjecajima i postao temelj na kojemu su se odvijale bitne promjene na tadaπnjoj likovnoj sceni, na kojoj je do tada dominantno vladao utjecaj Miroslava KraljeviÊa.

Zasluga Miroslava GaπparoviÊa i njegovih suradnika za prikaz stanja hrvatske umjetnosti i duha dvadesetih i tridesetih godina dvadesetog stoljeÊa, i znaËenje izloæbe o tim desetljeÊima upravo je u tome πto su oπtrom artdécoovskom optikom prepoznali u Hrvatskoj utjecaje veoma snaæne umjetniËke struje, umjetnike i njihova djela, koji su se tada nalazili i pripadali europskom srediπtu. U tom kontekstu, neizmjerni doprinos dao je i slikar Otto CROATIA AIRLINES

21

22

CROATIA AIRLINES

Antonini, prvi glavni urednik kultne revije Svijet i njezin glavni ilustrator. ZahvaljujuÊi njemu, Svijet je bio i druπtvena kronika, i promicanje svjetskih noviteta, prije svega mode, i scena ljepote na kojoj je stasala i 1927. Miss Europe postala ©tefica VidaπiÊ, poslije djevojka s hollywoodskom karijerom sporednih uloga u pet-πest filmova.

Svijet i Antonini nametnuli su artdécoovsku stilizaciju kao stil gradskog æivota, s preteæitim pariπkim i ameriËkim utjecajima. Na Antoninijevim ilustriranim naslovnicama moderna æena imala je upadljivo naπminkane oËi, crveni ruæ na usnama, kratko oπiπanu kosu, tj. bubikopf frizuru, nosila je svilu, krzno, neπto poslije i odjeÊu po uzoru na muπku, vozila je automobil, igrala golf i tenis, ljetovala je, bila je neizostavna na balovima u hotelu Esplanade i kojekakvim noÊnim zabavama… Ukratko, zabavljala se ili pripremala za zabavu.

Punu, ravnopravnu afirmaciju doæivjele su slikarice Vera NikoliÊ, Cata Dujπin Ribar, Sonja KovaËeviÊ TajËeviÊ i Anka Krizman. One su u slikarstvu dokinule ulogu dokonih dama koje slikaju u slobodno vrijeme i uvele kategoriju slikarice koja izlaæe i slobodno zagovara svoje umjetniËke stavove. ©to se tiËe mode art déco, posredno i lifestylea, nametnule su se potkraj razdoblja, kao uzor, svojim strogim kostimima, glumica Joan Crawford i Wallis Simpson, Amerikanka koja je uzdrmala Ujedinjeno Kraljevstvo.

U Zagrebu, velegradu, promjene su bile najoËitije: 1901. godine grad je imao sedamdesetak tisuÊa stanovnika, jedan jedini automobil, Opel koji je iz BeËa dovezao pustolov Ferdinand Budicki; 1907. osvijetljen je æaruljama, 1911. dobiva prvi asfalt, vrlo znaËajan za kulturu æivljenja u stilu art décoa, ima prekrasne palaËe i parkove, neπto malo industrije, ali, uz to, ima i Muzej za umjetnost i obrt, Obrtnu πkolu i Akademiju za umjetnost i umjetni obrt, jaku obrtnu tradiciju, dakle prave pretpostavke za art déco, Ëiji je jedan od imperativa bio ∑ vrhunsko zanatsko umijeÊe. Osim toga, kroz Zagreb prolazi slavni Orient Express, koji Êe posredno utjecati na ubrzanu gradnju hotela Esplanade.

Godine 1926., pod utjecajem spomenute pariπke izloæbe, Tomislav Krizman s nekoliko suradnika osniva u Zagrebu Udruæenje za promicanje umjetniËkog obrta Djelo s istoimenom zadrugom, koja je prodavala djela primijenjene umjetnosti. Krizman je uspio oko sebe okupiti najistaknutije umjetnike, od kojih su neki sudjelovali i na pariπkoj izloæbi. Krizman je objavio program Djela u zasebnoj knjiæici i sam izradio vizualni identitet u formi stubaste piramide, πto je bio jedan od najprisutnijih znakova art décoa. NajkraÊe, osnovni je cilj CROATIA AIRLINES

23

Djela i njegove zadruge bio ponuditi træiπtu suvremene uporabne predmete. Od najjednostavnijih do najluksuznijih. No, u opremanju stanova bio je popularan ultramoderan namjeπtaj tvornice Thonet.

Cijenjena je i autorska keramika i skulpture manjih formata, koje je radio i Ivan MeπtroviÊ, premda je u razdoblju art décoa, 1928., stvorio svoje najambicioznije djelo Indijance, kao javni spomenik u Chicagu i jedan od najznaËajnijih svjetskih djela tzv. konjaniËke skulpture. Njegova Kontemplacija (1924.) oznaËila je novu epohu, odnosno poËetak moderne skulpture, za koju je dobio Zlatnu medalju na Internacionalnoj izloæbi u Barceloni 1929. godine. Décoove godine 1925., na pariπkoj izloæbi, MeπtroviÊ je dobio Grand prix za kapelu Gospe od Anela u Cavtatu, koju je u Parizu pokazao na fotografijama.

Dr. sc. Viktor ÆmegaË, hrvatski intelektualac par excellence, koji je, kako je sâm istaknuo, proveo djetinjstvo upravo u artdécoovsko vrijeme, te autor tematske kataloπke cjeline zagrebaËke izloæbe, definira art déco kao derivat secesije (po dekorativnosti i ornamentalizmu, nap. A.M.) u doba automobila, zrakoplova, modernih plesnih dvorana, jazza i modnih revija. Po njemu, art déco je funkcionalizirani stil, primijenjeno oblikovanje, koje je puni zamah naπlo na ulici: na plakatima, proËeljima zgrada, u oblikovanju javnih prostora, kao πto su izloæbene zgrade, u opremi tiskovina, kao πto su modni Ëasopisi, filmske fotografske publikacija, u dizajnu prometnih medija (vlakova, automobila, bicikla…) Radio, gramofoni i filmovi imali su veliku ulogu u art décou, koji je, inaËe, dominirao u likovnim umjetnostima, malo u arhitekturi, a u glazbi gotovo nimalo, zato πto su naπi skladatelji bili okrenuti folklornom izriËaju i tematici. U knjiæevnosti, dr. sc. ÆmegaË istiËe tzv. uporabnu liriku, kao pjesniπtvo modernog velegrada (pjesme o mostovima, æeljeznicama, neboderima, gradskoj bohemi, æivotu predgraa…), πto je posljedica nastojanja da umjetnost i umjetni obrt budu pristupaËni πirim slojevima, ali i izraz kolektivnog pokreta u tom smislu πto se u njemu ne istiËu nadmoÊno vodeÊe liËnosti, imena umjetnika dospijevaju u drugi plan pred idejom zajedniËkog stila. Art déco naπao je svoje plodno tlo u kazaliπtu: u drami, operi i baletu, gdje se scenografijom izraæavao dekorativni modernizam, u Ëemu je u Hrvatskoj vjerojatno najbolji bio Sergije Glumac.

Ali, u art décou nije sve bilo tako bajkovito.

Samo je elitni dio æena nosio svilu, krzno, pomade, pudere i mirise: Coty, Worth, Bourjois, L’Oreal…, vozio kabriolete…, iako je nepobitna Ëinjenica da je upravo u art décou stvorena moderna æena i uopÊe tip æene potroπaËa.

24

CROATIA AIRLINES

Æivot se ipak odvijao u Kraljevini Srba, Hrvata i Slovenaca, u kojoj su elitizam i luksuz bili povlastica povlaπtenih, a dikatura politiËki okvir.

Isto tako, bilo bi pogreπno art déco potpuno poistovjetiti s uporabnom umjetnoπÊu, koja proizvodi djela za odreenu funkciju, koja neËemu sluæe. Jer, da je art déco bio samo to, unatoË njegovoj dekorativnoj ljepoti i kakvoÊi, on ne bi preæivio, on bi vrlo brzo izgubio u prilagodbi, tvrdi dr.sc. Viktor ÆmegaË, πto se nije dogodilo. DapaËe, art déco je ostao prepoznatljiv, a to je posljedica okolnosti da je pobijedila predodæba o koherentnosti stilskog izraza nad funkcijom samog objekta. Pobijedila je ljepota djela art décoa, koja ga je uzdizala iznad njegove funkcije. n

F

or a long time art historians and theoreticians were undecided in defining the mystery of Art Deco: was it an artistic style which prevailed between the two world wars? Was it a hotchpotch of trends and phenomena; or, was it, in more general terms, a phenomenon of the modern era, an art of living: exclusively urban, crazy, luxurious, glamorous, fancy and outrageous? No one was able to, or even tried to define Art Deco as a historical-artistic category. Even the very significant exhibition Les Années ‘25: Art Deco/ Bauhaus/Stijl/L’Esprit Nouveau, which was held at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 1966, failed to answer that very question, although that was the reason it was organized in the first place. The exhibition represented a kind of recapitulation of the Art Deco era, and was dedicated to the famous Paris exhibition Exposition Internationale des Artes decoratifs et industriels modernes in 1925 (International Exposition of Modern Industrial and Decorative Arts), which had been attended by 40 million visitors and gave the name to the style.

Even the most significant Art Deco exhibition of all times, which was organized under that same title in 2003 at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum, the largest museum of applied arts and design in the world, failed to provide an answer to those questions. As a novelty which compounded the entire controversial context of artistic pluralism, Art Deco was represented as spanning the period from 1910 to 1939.

According to Miroslav GaπparoviÊ, the director of Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts, as well as the head of the project and one of the authors of the concept of the exhibition Art Deco and Art in Croatia Between the Two Wars, which opened on 26 January, the exhibition is primarily a cultural-historical presentation of the aesthetics and style of the period that started at the end of World War I and lasted until 1939, the year that marked the begin-

ning of a new cataclysm; Art Deco, indeed, was the first true global style which appeared on all continents and was an amalgam of the contemporary parallelisms.

- During that time various stylistic expressions were interlacing and overlapping, and one of the streams which characterized the period was Art Deco ∑ a composite style which was primarily perceived through the applied arts, graphic design and illustration, - the director, GaπparoviÊ, pointed out. However, the great expansion of Art Deco had an inevitable impact on Croatian painting as well; it appeared initially in 1921, at the exhibition by Sava ©umanoviÊ. He was a student of the André Lhote Painting School. Lhote’s PostCubist work was one of the foundations of Art Deco painting and he had a significant influence on several Croatian artists who were his students: ©umanoviÊ, Sergije Glumac and Sonja KovaËeviÊ TajËeviÊ. The second important movement came from Prague by way of the so-called Prague Foursome. When Milivoj Uzelac, Vilko Gecan, Marijan Trepπe and Vladimir Varlaj returned to Zagreb from Prague in 1919 their works set the direction which converged with ©umanoviÊ’s PostCubist influence and became the foundation on which important changes were made on the art scene at that time, which until then had been dominantly governed by the influence of Miroslav KraljeviÊ.

Miroslav GaπparoviÊ and his associates are credited with portraying the state of Croatian art and the spirit during the 1920s and 1930s of the 20th century. The importance of this exhibition depicting those decades lies in the fact that the authors have applied acute Art Deco optic to give recognition to the influence in Croatia of that incredibly powerful artistic stream, the artists and their works, which at that time existed and belonged to the European centre. In that context, the painter Otto Antonini made an immense contribution as the first editor-in-chief and main illustrator of the cult magazine World. Owing to him, World was also a society chronicle, and a promoter of world novelties, above all fashion and the world of beauty, a world in which a Croatian girl, ©tefica VidaπiÊ, grew up in, and in 1927 became Miss Europe and then went on to a career in Hollywood where she landed supporting roles in five or six films.

World and Antonini imposed the Art Deco style as an urban way of life, with predominant Parisian and American influences. Antonini’s illustrated covers feature modern women with conspicuously made-up eyes, red lipstick, short hair, the so-called bubikopf hairstyle; they are depicted wearing silk and fur, and

somewhat later clothes that were based on models for men. They drove cars, played golf and tennis, went on summer vacations, attended the must-attend balls at the Esplanade Hotel and were part of the night-life in general... In short, they were either having fun or getting ready for a good time. Much equal affirmation was enjoyed by painters Vera NikoliÊ, Cata Dujπin Ribar, Sonja KovaËeviÊ TajËeviÊ and Anka Krizman. In the world of painting they did away with the role of the lady of leisure who painted in her free time; instead they introduced a new category of female painters who were exhibited and freely advocated their artistic attitudes. Art Deco fashion, and indirectly the lifestyle that went with it, was perfectly illustrated by two female figures who imposed themselves as role models with their austere costumes: the American actresses Joan Crawford and Wallis Simpson, the latter of which literally shook the British Empire.

In Zagreb, a metropolis, the changes were the most obvious. In 1901 the city had a population of 70,000 and only one car ∑ an Opel which was brought to Zagreb from Vienna by the adventurer Ferdinand Budicki.

In 1907 the first light bulbs in the city were lit; and 1911 saw the first asphalt road, which was very significant for the Art Deco style of living. There were beautiful palaces and parks, and relatively little industry. However, along with all of that, there was the Museum of Arts and Crafts, the School of Crafts and the Academy of Arts and Crafts. There was, obviously, a very strong craft tradition. What this meant was that the preconditions were right in place for Art Deco, as one of its imperatives was ∑ professional skills of the highest calibre. Moreover, the famous Orient Express passed through Zagreb, which had an indirect impact on the speed at which the Esplanade Hotel was built.

In 1926 in Zagreb, under the influence of the abovementioned exhibition in Paris, Tomislav Krizman and a few associates set up the Association for Promoting Craft Art Djelo, as well as a cooperative by the same name, which sold works of applied art. Krizman succeeded to surround himself with the most distinguished artists, some of whom had participated in the Paris exhibition. Krizman announced Djelo’s program in a booklet, and he himself designed the visual identity in the form of a step-like pyramid, which was one of the most inherent symbols of Art Deco. In short, the basic aim of Djelo and its cooperative was to offer the market modern items for everyday use; from the simplest to the most luxurious.

When it came to furnishing apartments, the CROATIA AIRLINES

25

most popular and ultramodern furniture came from the company Thonet.

The authors who created small-scaled ceramics and sculptures were quite respected, such as Ivan MeπtroviÊ, even though he created his most ambitious work in 1928 during the Art Deco period. His piece Indians is a public monument in Chicago and one of the most significant works in the world in terms of the so-called equestrian statuary.

MeπtroviÊ’s Contemplation (1924) was a sign of a new era, that is to say the start of modern sculpture, for which he won the gold medal at the 1929 international art exhibition in Barcelona. At the Paris Art Deco exhibition in 1925, MeπtroviÊ was awarded the Grand Prix for the Chapel of Our Lady of Angels in Cavtat, which he showed at the fair by way of pictures.

Dr. Viktor ÆmegaË, the Croatian intellectual par excellence, who, as he himself says, grew up during the Art Deco period, and is also the author of the thematic contribution in the catalogue of the Zagreb exhibition, defined Art Deco as a derivative of secession (in terms of decorativeness and ornamentation, author’s remark) during the time of cars, planes, modern dance halls, jazz and fashion shows.

According to him, Art Deco was a functionalised style, a practical form which found its full expression on our streets: on bill boards, on the facades of buildings, in the design of public spaces, such as the exhibition buildings, and in the design of printed publications, such as fashion magazines, and illustrated film magazines, in the design of transport means (trains, cars, bicycles...). Radio, gramophones and films played a great role in Art Deco, the style which was most strongly present in the fine arts, somewhat less in architecture, and almost absent from music, due to the fact that our composers relied heavily on folk musical expression and themes. In literature, Dr. ÆmegaË points to the so-called applied lyrics as the poetry of the modern cities (poems about bridges, railroads, skyscrapers, the city’s bohemian culture, suburban lifestyle...), which was a consequence of the efforts invested in making arts and crafts accessible to all the classes, but also an expression of a collective movement, in the sense that the style was not overpowered and dominated by any leading figures; the artists’ names were no longer centre stage; they surrendered their place to the idea of a common style. Art Deco found its happy footing in the theatre: in dramas, operas and ballets, where the set design was able to express decorative modernism.

In Croatia, Sergije Glumac was probably the best at this, by far.

26

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

27

However, not everything was fairy-tale perfect when it came to Art Deco. Only the elite women wore silk and fur, or used creams, powders and perfumes: Coty, Worth, Bourjois, L’Oreal…, drove convertibles..., even though it is an indisputable fact that Art Deco created the modern woman and the type of woman who was a consumer. In the Kingdom of Serbia, Croatia and Slovenia elitism and luxury were privileges of the privileged, and a dictatorship served as a political frame for everyday life. In addition, it would be inaccurate to equate Art Deco completely with the applied arts, which create items for a specific function, items which were meant to serve a purpose. If Art Deco had been only that, it would not have survived despite all of its decorative beauty and quality. It would have quickly lost its identity and refashioned itself to something else, argues Dr. ÆmegaË. Yet, it did not happen. Art Deco has remained a recognizable style. This is due to the ultimate prevalence of the perception that the coherence of stylistic expression is more important than an object’s function. What mattered was the beauty of an Art Deco piece which elevated the style beyond its mere function. n

28

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

29

Dobro doπao na mjesto gdje je nebo uvijek plavo, makar ono bilo sivo, jer poznajemo boju iznad oblaka…

Dobro doπao k meni koji sam ovdje kako bih te primio i odao ti poËast zbog traæenja.

(Paulo Coelho, Zahir) Welcome to the place where the sky is blue even when it is gray, because we know that the colour is still there above the clouds…

Welcome to me, for I am here to receive you and to honour you for your search.

(Paulo Coelho, Zahir) 30

CROATIA AIRLINES

■ ISTRA ISTRIA

Istarskim gradiÊima pripisuju se ljudske osobine i raspoloæenja. DraguÊ tako odiπe sjeÊanjem na minula doba te poziva na jedinstvenost svijeta u kojemu Êe snaga æivota snaænije ispunjavati titraje ulica i kuÊa. Ovdje se æivi u prostoru koji ljude nije odvojio od drugih ljudi, kao na nekom otoku, nego ih uputio i na sebe same.

You can attribute human characteristics and moods to the Istrian towns. DraguÊ exudes the memories of past times, and calls for unity in a world in which the force of life will more powerfully fill the streets and houses with vibrations.

Here one lives in an environment where people are not separated from one another like on an island, but at the same time, they have to rely on themselves.

Piše/By Goran StojanoviÊ Fotografije/Photos Ivo Pervan

I

stra je snovita zemlja - Terra Magica, poluotok isprepleten dolinama, brdima i πumama, visokom UËkom i prekrasnim morem, zelenim paπnjacima, maslinicima i vinogradima, voÊnjacima, rijekama i proplancima. GradiÊi, zaseoci, kuÊe i stancije, rijetko gdje kao ovdje, odiπu puninom sjeÊanja, koja æele nanovo oæivjeti. Mnogobrojne crkve, kapele i zvonici nadahnjuju prostor vjerom, kulturom i tradicijom. Uvijek blaga i dobroduπna, raπirenih ruku ona pozdravlja sve dobronamjernike koji u njoj iπËekuju doæivljaj magiËna iskustva, ljepotu i susret s joπ jednim obrubom Sredozemlja, njegovim mitskim i povijesno-stvarnim bivstvovanjem.

Danas, u tome po mnogo Ëemu osebujnom podruËju prastare Histrije, s daleko poznatom crvenom, bijelom i sivom zemljom, na vijugavoj cesti izmeu Cerovlja i Buzeta, pomalo zaboravljenoj meu novonastalim autocestama - nalazi se posve mali grad CROATIA AIRLINES

31

koji svojim poloæajem i osobitom vizurom putnicima budi pozornost. Ne treba dvojiti, nadomak ste DraguÊu, bisernoj znamenitosti srednjovjekovne Istre.

U granicama ocrtanima kulturom maslina, tom tradicijskom oznakom Sredozemlja, okruæen prostranim dragama, taj æivopisni gradiÊ, πto plovi kao jahaË na sedlu sa πtitom malenog zmaja, drago ili drakuna, svojom urbanom osobitoπÊu, poloæajem i arhitekturom privlaËi i zaustavlja pogled sluËajnog prolaznika.

Svoje postojanje DraguÊ biljeæi joπ od prapovijesnog doba, s prvotnim gradinskim naseljem podignutim na istoimenom brdu na jugoistoËnoj 500-metarskoj visoravni. Taj stari lokalitet πume su s vremenom ponovno uzele pod svoje okrilje i tek poneki ostatak kamene grae govori o æivotu zaboravljenih kuÊa i utvrda…

Danaπnji DraguÊ podignut je u srednjem vijeku, prvotno kao dominantni kaπtel s utvrenim podgraima, s vremenom uklopljen u arhitekturu kasnijih razdoblja. Promiπljeno oblikovan te zamamno spuπten na hrbat 360-metarske uzvisine, on oku dopuπta uzlet u prostor veliËanstvenog leta nad prostranstvima istarskih dolina, posebice usmjerenih na blagoliki krajolik DraguÊke vale.

Prvi se put kaπtel kao preteËa naselja spominje daleke 1102. godine kao Dravuie, u tadaπnjoj darovnici istarskog markgrofa Ulricha II. akvilejskom patrijarhu. Svojom idejom tadaπnji zamak bio je odraz konstituiranja feudalnog ureenja jer grofovi su ga davali svojim vazalima na koriπtenje, a okolno je stanovniπtvo u podgraima imalo obvezu vojne sluæbe. To staro fortifikacijsko naselje viπe je stoljeÊa bilo pograniËno mjesto izmeu mletaËkih-venecijanskih i austrijskih posjeda u Istri, pa je Ëesto bilo na udaru svakog sukoba izmeu tih dviju dræava. Godine 1374. kao dio buduÊe Pazinske grofovije DraguÊ je pripao GoriËkim grofovima, zatim Habsburgovcima.

Napadali su ga razliËiti neprijatelji, palili ga i razarali. Ono πto su poËeli ratovi, viπe je puta nastavila kuga, a dovrπila 1855. kolera, koja je desetkovala stanovniπtvo. Pravo je Ëudo πto je gradiÊ opstao i πto se toliko toga saËuvalo do danaπnjih dana. Iz tog vremena saËuvani su tek dijelovi fortifikacije na sjeverozapadnom dijelu glavnoga i jedinoga draguÊkog trga.

Nakon UskoËkog rata izmeu MletaËke Republike i Habsburπke Monarhije, koji se u europskim razmjerima vodio od 1615 do 1617., a u Istri i osam mjeseci dulje, te kuge koja je harala, Istra je ostala tako pusta da je 1649.

Imala jedva 51.000 stanovnika. Godine 1650.

DraguÊ je imao oko 480 stanovnika, a poslije se taj broj poveÊao, osobito u podruËnim se32

CROATIA AIRLINES

lima. U to je vrijeme gradiÊ iz temelja iznikao svjedoËeÊi pomnu planiranost svoje gradnje s kvalitetnim otklonom od ranosrednjovjekovnih spontano nastalih korti koje su se Ëesto podizale kao nepravilne kruæne fortifikacije.

Taj posve Ëaroban urbani prostor, pouzdano, ubraja se u nedovoljno istraæenu tipoloπku skupinu istarskih srednjovjekovnih gradova, a istiËe se paralelnim nizovima kuÊa, koje formiraju ulice usmjerene k izvoru svojega nastajanja - nekadaπnjem kaπtelu, koji danas s ostacima svojih zidina tvori neveliko gospodarstvo obitelji Zaneli.

Nisu tu bez razloga snimani i mnogi filmovi, u kojima je gradiÊ bio mjesto radnje, a nekima samo posuivao svoje vizure i ambijente. PopriliËno je filmskih zvijezda πetalo draguÊkim ulicama, a meu njima bili su i Gerard Depardieu, Nastassja Kinski, Michael York u »etiri muπketira, Karl Malden u Sutonu, Boris Dvornik, Zvonko LepetiÊ boravili su u njemu snimajuÊi LetaËe velikog neba, a Relja BaπiÊ, Sandra Ceccarelli, Sven Medveπek glumili su ovdje u filmu Libertas Veljka BulajiÊa…

Od 1972. godine do danas ovdje se snimilo devet filmova, pa ga domaÊi i inozemni filmski djelatnici umiljato nazivaju i istarskim Hollywoodom.

Osjetiti æivotnost toga gradiÊa, danas samo sa 42 stanovnika, osobito je iskustvo. Lijepi krajolici, osebujna arhitektura, nepostojanje buke, trgovina i restorana - brzo vas ponesu u prostore dalekih vremena u kojima se sporije æivjelo, ali punije doticalo pulsiranje godiπnjih doba, dana i noÊi. U tim nesigurnim vremenima, stanovnici ovih sredina bili su upuÊeni na uzajamnu susretljivost i pomaganje, nesebiËnost i razumijevanje.

U tako maloj urbanoj sredini, na ulazu u DraguÊ sagraena je kapelica svetog Elizeja u 12. stoljeÊu, osebujnoga koloristiËkog efekta vanjπtine, a u gradu su Ëak tri crkve: crkva svetoga Kriæa iz 15. stoljeÊa, poslije viπe puta dograivana, s orguljama iz 18. stoljeÊa, crkvica svetoga Roka, nebeskog zaπtitnika od kuge, sagraena na zagovor od te teπke bolesti i pojave njezine epidemije u poËetku 16. stoljeÊa. Crkvica se nalazi na sjevernoj strani, pred nekadaπnjim ulazom u utvreni grad, na proplanku s kojega se prostire predivan vidik na brdovitost srediπnje Istre. TreÊa nosi ime Gospe od ruæara, a graena je 1641. godine u vrijeme kada je na zgariπtu starog DraguÊa, nakon veÊ spomenutoga UskoËkog rata, nicalo novo obnovljeno naselje. Svojim poloæajem pokriva poËetak srediπnje glavne ulice, a interijer joj je ispunjen drvenim oltarima saËuvanih inventara iz obliænjih crkvi, tako da je s vremenom postala svojevrsni muzej sakralne umjetnosti.

CROATIA AIRLINES

33

34

CROATIA AIRLINES

Crkve i kapelicu danas gostima otvara gospodin Zaneli, u kojega su, kao u svetoga Petra, svi golemi kljuËevi crkvenih vrata. U njega su kljuËevi i zvonika, a zvona se danas oglaπavaju na struju svaki puni sat. Do prije koje godine uæad je potezala zvonarica i vodila putnike namjernike kroz gradske ulice i sakralna zdanja.

Gdje se nalazi izvorni poticaj povijesnom zajedniπtvu draguÊke zajednice, toga visoravnog mjesta poloæenoga u udaljeni zagrljaj prirodnih dolina? Kako su mnogi istarski srednjovjekovni gradiÊi, meu njima i DraguÊ, uspjeli sagraditi mnogo crkvi, kapelica i zvonika? Kako su ljudi, unatoË velikom siromaπtvu, Ëestim ratovima i razliËitim epidemijama koje su katkad desetkovale stanovniπtvo - uspjeli prikupiti veÊa sredstva za solidarnu pomoÊ, humanu urbanost i gradnju mnogih objekata sakralne i druπtvene namjene? Na kojim je temeljima nastajala motiviranost stanovnika za uzajamnim pomaganjem, unatoË oskudicama, feudalnom sustavu i Ëestim ratovima?

Odgovor je viπestoljetne opstojnosti istarskih zajednica u bratovπtinama, laiËkim udrugama nastalima u krπÊanskim sredinama sredinom 14. stoljeÊa. Do kraja 18. stoljeÊa, kad ih je dekretom ukinuo car Josip II., u Istri ih je djelovalo viπe od 800, a svaka od njih imala je od 10 do 20 Ëlanova, koji su dobrovoljno i ravnopravno, bez obzira na staleπke ili druge druπtvene razlike, ostvarivali bratsko ozraËje, pa im otuda i naziv.

U DraguÊu djelovalo je dvanaest takvih bratovπtina, a æivotnost im se, sukladno nauku, zasnivala na socijalnoj solidarnosti, a oËitovala u pojaËanoj skrbi za vlastito Ëlanstvo i zajednicu. Neke od bratovπtina imale su neprekinutu nit djelovanja i viπe od tri stotina godina, a neke su Ëak i starije. Zanimljivo je CROATIA AIRLINES

35

istaknuti da je preljubnicima i lihvarima bilo najstroæe zabranjeno uËlanjivanje u bilo koju bratovπtinu. Imena bratovπtina, po pravilu, uvijek su se odabirala meu imenima nebesnika ili vjerskih atribucija koje su imale dodirne veze s planiranim aktivnostima bratovπtine, tako da su draguÊke bratovπtine nosile nazive sv. Fabijana i sv. Sebastijana, sv. Antuna, sv. Roka, Blaæene Djevice Marije od svete krunice, sv. Kriæa…

Joπ je jedna osobitost ovdje. Bilo da je rijeË o pismenoj ili usmenoj komunikaciji, ona se u draguÊkim dolinama do sredine sedamnaestog stoljeÊa intenzivno odvijala na hrvatskome. MatiËne knjige vodile su se hrvatsko-glagoljski do 1650. godine i fiziËkog odlaska dugovjeËnog æupnika Andrije MatkoviÊa, vrijednoga pastoralnog radnika, Boæjeg vinogradara, koji je ostao zapamÊen kao glasoviti zapisivaË matiËnih knjiga i notarskog protokola na glagoljici (od 16. do 17. st.). Dragocjeni dokumenti i danas se Ëuvaju u Hrvatskoj akademiji znanosti i umjetnosti.

DraguÊ danas nema æupnika. Antun MerliÊ, posljednji draguÊki æupnik, bio je poznat i po tome πto bi Ëesto odjenuo radnu odjeÊu te zidarskom ælicom popravljao sakralna zdanja. Od njegova odlaska veÊ se godinama o DraguÊu brine æupnik iz nedalekog Vrha.

Taj mali æivotopisni prostor ima staru i zatvorenu πkolsku zgradu. Djece je sve manje, a i ono malo πto ih ima, putuje u Cerovlje, opÊinu u koju pripada i ovaj gradiÊ. Stara draguÊka πkola uskoro se poËinje adaptirati i u njoj se oËekuje otvaranje turistiËkoga informacijskog centra, polivalentne dvorane i Istarskog centra za freske. Jedna gostionica te znamenita fontana posred trga, podignuta joπ 1888. godine, i danas svjedoËe da je trg srediπte grada, povezan s prostorom nekadaπnje utvrde glasovitim kaπtelskim pothodnikom, koji je nekad bio glavni ulaz.

Ovo je mjesto sasvim sigurno i svojevrsni etnografski kutak, æivuÊi muzej s graanima kustosima. Mnogo tu kruæi informacija, sjeÊanja, osobitih zgoda iz proπlosti. »uje se tu da je DraguÊ iznjedrio i poznate lijeËnike i umjetnike.

U srediπnjoj ulici sa zgradama baroknih i klasicistiËkih proËelja, koja vodi do glavnog trga, rodna je kuÊa Antonija Grossicha, lijeËnika, kirurga i politiËara roenoga 1849. godine. Medicinu je diplomirao u BeËu 1875., nakon Ëega se zaposlio u Kastvu, te poslije kao πef kirurgije rijeËke gradske bolnice, tada veÊ i kao znanstvenik, 1908. otkrio metodu dezinficiranja rana s pomoÊu joda, koja je u svjetskoj medicini ubrzo prihvaÊena, a i danas se aktivno primjenjuje.

Istarskim gradiÊima pripisuju se ljudske osobine i raspoloæenja: nepoznatost, usamlje36

CROATIA AIRLINES

nost, umjetniËka nadahnutost, siromaπtvo, bla æenost, iπËekivanje… DraguÊ odiπe sjeÊanjem na minula doba te poziva na jedistvenost svijeta u kojemu Êe snaga æivota snaænije ispunjavati titraje ulica i kuÊa. Ovdje su se nekoÊ domovi meusobno povezivali gradeÊi davni sklad zajedniπtva bez kojeg tako male sredine i ne bi mogle opstati.

Snaæan osjeÊaj povezanosti postoji u ljepoti draguÊke arhitekture, u æivotnosti prostora koji, unatoË vremenu, joπ pulsira bez zastajanja. On i dalje æivi viteπke vizure, ispunjene dahom proπlosti, stopljen s dostojanstvom ljudi i obiËaja. Grad Ëezne za davnim zajedniπtvom, u kojemu je ruka darovatelja bila veÊa od ruke primatelja, solidarnost snaænija od osobnih interesa.

Ovdje se æivi u prostoru koji ljude nije odvojio od drugih ljudi, kao na nekom otoku, nego ih uputio i na sebe same. U toj spoznaji oni æive prolaznu vjeËnost ispunjenu dijalektikom Sredozemlja, koja se uveÊava prema razmjeru i naravi toga podneblja na sasvim svojevit, originalan i dobroduπan naËin.

Ovdje si ljudi kao i nekoÊ pomaæu u æivljenju, jer πto im je joπ i ostalo ako izgube to staro zajedniπtvo. –ani BlaæeviÊ i dalje obrauje stare maslinike, proizvodeÊi ulje od kojega æivi. I sin mu u tome pomaæe, iako radi u Pazinu… U proljeÊe sve zazeleni, doline i njive zadiπu buenjem, u ljeto pulsiranje zajednice podignu turisti, u jesen sve je okrenuto berbi groæa i maslina. Tek u zimi, kad kiπe ispune magliËasti prostor dolina, ljudima je dat prostor unutraπnjeg promiπljanja: Kako je to bilo juËer, kako je danas… πto Êe biti sutra?

DraguÊ jest biser koji treba Ëuvati od praπine.

Biser je to o kojemu se treba skrbiti, o njemu zboriti, njega oæivjeti. To je i zaglavni kamen prisjeÊanja na vremena zajedniπtva kad su bratovπtine primjerom pokazivale da se moæe mnogo toga napraviti, sagraditi, podignuti i pomoÊi dobrom voljom i ispravnim odlukama, tim vjeËnim polugama ljudskih vrijednosti koje mijenjaju svijet nabolje. n

I

stria is a dreamlike land - Terra Magica, a peninsula of intertwining valleys, hills and forests, with towering Mt. UËka and the beautiful sea, green pastures, olive groves and vineyards, orchards, rivers and glades. Like in very few other places, the small towns, hamlets, houses and stancijas exude the fullness of memories and experiences that they wish to relive. The numerous churches, chapels and church towers inspire the area with a sense of faith, culture and tradition. Always gentle and kind-hearted, with open arms Istria greets all the good intentioned people who have come in expectation of magical experiences, beauty CROATIA AIRLINES

37

and an encounter with yet another part of the Mediterranean, its mythical and historically founded existence.

Today, there are many reasons why this particular region of ancient Histria draws travellers’ attention. Amongst the fields of its widely known red, white and grey soil, on the winding road between Cerovlje and Buzet, almost forgotten as a result of the newly built highway - there lies a tiny little city which is known for its location and remarkable cityscape. There is no need to doubt, you are near DraguÊ, the shiny pearl of medieval Istria.

Within boundaries that are delineated by olive trees, a traditional trademark of the Mediterranean, and encircled by wide creeks, this picturesque little town, which floats like a horseman in a saddle carrying a shield of a small dragon, drago or drakun, as it is known in these parts, with its urban idiosyncrasies, its location and architecture, the town attracts and catches the eyes of chance passers-by.

DraguÊ’s existence dates back to the prehistoric period, with the first town settlement built on its namesake hill on the south-east part of a 500 meter plateau. With time the ancient site has again been reclaimed by the forest, and only a few remains of the stone buildings tell the story about the life of the forgotten houses and fortresses...

Today’s DraguÊ was erected in the Middle Ages, initially as a dominant castle with suburbs along its fortified walls, which over the years were incorporated into the architecture of later periods. Its well conceived plan and charming location on the ridge of a 360 meter high hill, allow the eye to ascend into the area of a magnificent flight over the expanse of Istrian landscapes, particularly those of the eye-pleasing DraguÊ valley.

The first time the castle Dravuie was mentioned, as far back as 1102, as a predecessor to the future settlement, was when the Istrian Marquis Ulrich II donated his land to the Patriarch of Aquileia. The concept of the castle reflected an organized feudal system in the making. The counts lent it their vassals and the residents in the surrounding villages were obliged to serve in the army. For many centuries the ancient fortified town served as the border between the properties of the Venetian Republic and the Austrian Republic in Istria. Therefore, it was often caught in the crossfire during conflicts between these two states. In 1374, as part of the future County of Pazin, DraguÊ fell under the control of the Counts of Gorizia, and then was passed on to the Habsburgs.

It was attacked, burned and ravaged by different enemies. What the wars started often 38

CROATIA AIRLINES

continued with epidemics of the plague, and the process ended in 1855 with the cholera which decimated the population. It is a sheer miracle that the city survived and that anything of it has been preserved until today. The only remains that still exist from that time are the parts of a fortification that was located on the north-western corner of the main square, which was also the one and only public square.

After the Uskok war between the Venetian Republic and the Habsburg Monarchy, which raged all across Europe from 1615 to 1617, and with the battles in Istria continuing for eight months longer and then the plague that devastated the area, Istria was left so deserted that in 1649 there were not even 51,000 inhabitants. DraguÊ had about 480 residents in 1650, but that number increased afterwards, especially in the surrounding villages. At that time the little town rose from the ashes testifying to the well conceived urban planning and demonstrating a quality shift from the early medieval settlements that often times sprung up spontaneously around circular irregularly shaped fortifications.

In terms of its typology, that truly marvellous urban space certainly belongs to the group of insufficiently explored Istrian Medieval towns.

Its prominent features are the parallel rows of houses which form streets that run in the direction of the source of their existence - the one-time castle. Today the castle and the remains of its ancient walls make up part of a little estate owned by the Zanelli family.

It is not without reason that many movies have been filmed here. This little town was often the setting of the action, while some films just borrowed its vistas and ambience.

Quite a few film stars have walked along the streets of DraguÊ, including Gerard Depardieu, Nastassja Kinski and Michael York in La Femme Musketeer, Karl Malden in Sunset, Boris Dvornik and Zvonko LepetiÊ stayed here while filming The Flyers of the Great Sky, while Relja BaπiÊ, Sandra Ceccarelli and Sven Medveπek acted in the film Libertas

by Veljko BulajiÊ… Nine movies have been filmed here since 1972, thus domestic and foreign film crews have lovingly dubbed it the Istrian Hollywood.

Getting a sense of the vitality of that little town, with only 42 residents today, is an exceptional experience. The beautiful landscape, peculiar architecture, absence of noise, the non-existence of shops and restaurants - will quickly take you back to the time when life was slower, but when one was more fully in touch with the pulse of the seasons, of days and nights. During those precarious times,

CROATIA AIRLINES

39

the people who lived in this area were bound to help one another; they had to be unselfish and understanding.

In such a small urban environment, a particularly colourful chapel dedicated to St. Elisha was built in the 12th century at one of the entrances to DraguÊ. In the town there are also three churches: the Church of the Holy Cross from the 15th century, which was added on to several times and contains an organ from the 18th century; the Church of Saint Roch, the patron of plagues, was built as a votive church against the terrible sickness whose epidemic broke out at the start of the 16th century. The church is located on the northern side of the town, in front of the one-time entrance to the fortified city, on an open field which commands an amazing view of the hills in the centre of Istria. The third church is the Church of Our Lady of Rosary, built in 1641.

This was during the time when a newly reconstructed settlement was being built on the site of the fires that destroyed old DraguÊ after the previously mentioned Uskok war. It is situated at the start of the town’s main street, and its interior is filled with wooden altars that were preserved and came from nearby churches, so that over the years this church has become a kind of museum of sacral art.

Today the churches and chapel are unlocked for guests by Mr. Zanelli, who like St. Peter, is the keeper of all the keys to the doors of the churches. He also has the keys to the bell tower. Today the church bells are controlled by an electric system and ring at the top of every hour. Until just a few years ago, there was a bell ringer who pulled a rope to chime the bells, and she also guided chance travellers through the streets of the city and gave them tours of the sacral buildings.

Where is the origin of the unity of the DraguÊ commune, the settlement on a high plateau nestled in the distant embrace of natural valleys? How did so many Medieval Istrian towns, including DraguÊ, manage to build so many churches, chapels and bell towers? How were these people, despite being incredibly poor, frequently at war and often suffering from various epidemics which sometimes decimated their population numbers - able to raise the incredible resources that were needed to help one another, to create humane urban dwellings and build so many edifices that were used for sacral and social purposes?

What was the inhabitants’ motivation to help one another based on, especially in the face of such hardships, a feudal system and frequent wars?

The answer can be found in the many centuries of survival of the Istrian community, in 40

CROATIA AIRLINES

the brotherhoods, the laymen’s societies that emerged in the Christian midst of the mid 14th century. Until the end of the 18th century, when they were abolished by decree of Emperor Joseph II, there were more than 800 active societies. Each of them had 10 to 20 voluntary members who enjoyed equal rights, regardless of class or other social differences. These societies provided a fraternal environment and were consequently named as so.

In DraguÊ there were twelve such active brotherhoods. According to doctrine, their existence was based on social solidarity, which was manifested by the increased care of its own members and community. Some of the brotherhoods had been carrying out their activities uninterrupted for more than three hundred years, and some are even older. It is interesting to point out that adulterers and usurers were strictly forbidden to join any of the brotherhoods. According to the rules, the names of the brotherhoods were always chosen based on names of saints or religious attributes which had something in common with the planned activities of that particular brotherhood. Thus, the brotherhoods in DraguÊ were named after St. Fabian and St. Sebastian, St. Anthony, St. Roch, Blessed Virgin Mary of the Holy Rosary, Holy Cross...

Another interesting fact concerns written and oral communication. Until the mid 17th century, the written and spoken language used in the DraguÊ valley was Croatian. The main register was kept in Croatian-Glagolitic until 1650 when the long-lived pastor Andrija MatkoviÊ passed away. He was a valuable pastoral worker known as God’s Wine-grower, and is remembered as the famous data logger of the main registry and notarial protocol in Glagolitic (from the 16th - 17th centuries). These precious documents are today kept in the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts.

DraguÊ does not have a pastor today. Antun MerliÊ, the last parish priest in DraguÊ, was known for often being dressed in worker’s overalls and using a trowel to fix the sacral buildings. Since his departure many years ago, the parish priest from nearby Vrh has been taking care of DraguÊ.

This little colourful place has an old school building, which is now closed. There are fewer and fewer children, and those that there are must travel to Cerovlje, the municipality in which this little town belongs. The old school in DraguÊ will soon undergo adaptation to accommodate a new tourist information centre, a polyvalent hall and the Istrian Centre of Frescoes. The one pub and the famous fountain in the centre of the square, which was erected in 1888, still mark the centre

CROATIA AIRLINES

41

of the town. It was connected with the onetime fortress by means of a renowned castle underground passage, which was once the town’s main entrance.

This place is certainly an ethnographic nook of sorts, a living museum with the citizens as its curators. The place is rife with stories, memories and recollections of special events from the past. It is said that many well known doctors and artists hail from DraguÊ.

In the middle of the street that leads to the main square and contains buildings with Baroque and Classicist facades, is the house that Antonio Grossich, famous doctor, surgeon and politician, was born in in 1849. He studied medicine in Vienna, graduating in 1875, after which he found a job in Kastav. He went on to become Chief of Surgery at the City Hospital of Rijeka. Already considered a scientist, in 1908 he discovered a method to disinfect wounds by using iodine. This was quickly adopted in the world of medicine and is still actively applied today.

You can attribute human characteristics and moods to the Istrian towns: obscurity, solitude, artistic inspiration, poverty, blissfulness, expectancy... DraguÊ exudes the memories of past times, and calls for unity in a world in which the force of life will more powerfully fill the streets and houses with vibrations. Ties were once built here among the homes in order to build a harmonious unity which was a sine qua non of survival in such tiny communities. The powerful sense of connection exists in the beauty of DraguÊ’s architecture, in the vitality of the area which, despite the time, still pulsates without stopping. It continues to live its chivalrous vistas, filled with the breath of the past, and blended with the greatness of the people and their customs.

42

CROATIA AIRLINES

The town yearns for the unity of long ago, when the giving hand was greater than the taking hand, and when solidarity prevailed over personal interest.

Here one lives in an environment where people are not separated from one another like on an island, but at the same time, they have to rely on themselves. Seized with that knowledge, they live a transient eternity filled with the Mediterranean dialectics, which grows in proportion and in keeping with the nature of the environment in a very particular, original and good-natured way.

People still help each other as they always did, because what would they have left if they lost that old community. –ani BlaæeviÊ still continues to cultivate his old olive groves, and he lives from the oil that he produces.

His son helps him with this even though he works in Pazin... In the springtime everything is completely green, and the valleys and fields breath fully awaken. In the summer the community pulsates as the number of tourists increases, and in the autumn the focus turns to harvesting the grapes and olives. Only in the winter, when the rains fill the hazy valley, people can afford to take the time to think: What was it like yesterday, how is it today... what will tomorrow bring?

DraguÊ, indeed, is a pearl that needs to be saved from the dust. A pearl that needs to be taken care of, spoken for and brought back to life. It is the pivotal rock that reminds us of the times of community, when the brotherhoods showed by example that much more could be done, built and erected, and that many more could be helped with good will and proper decision making. These are the eternal levers of human values which can change the world for the best. n

CROATIA AIRLINES

43

44

CROATIA AIRLINES

ZANIMLJIVA MJESTA IntRIGUING PLACES ■

N

akon manje od pedeset prijeenih koraka, glavnom ulicom doπli smo do posljednje kamene kuÊe koja je prijeËila pogled na umirujuÊe prostranstvo Istre, okupano suncem. Iza kuÊe ËuËao je neki Ëovjek i preslagivao kamenje. Pitali smo ga πto radi, na πto se nasmijao i kratko rekao: Radim kraj Huma.

Tu se poËelo odmotavati klupko oko tajne najmanjega grada na svijetu, koji se prvi put spominje 1102. godine, kad je postao feudom akvilejskih patrijarha. No kako je Hum zaista stekao titulu najmanjega grada na svijetu, unatoË tomu πto po svim birokratskim pravilima ne moæe uæivati takav status?

U srednjem vijeku Hum je doista imao status grada, kao i RoË i Motovun, no danas je to savrπen brand, legenda zbog koje je istina potpuno nevaæna. Legenda kaæe da su najzanimljivije gradove u unutraπnjosti Istre, poput Motovuna, Sovinjaka, Groænjana i Buzeta nekoÊ gradili divovi koji su, prije naseljavanja ljudi, æivjeli u dolini rijeke Mirne.

Bili su tako veliki da su, radeÊi svaki na svom brdu, jedan drugomu dodavali kamenje. Kad su napravili sve πto su htjeli, ostao im je viπak kamena kojim su, ekonomiËnosti radi, stvorili siÊuπan Hum. Kao viπak materijala, vjeran vlastitim granicama, Hum je dokazao smisao i vrijednost svoga postojanja, opiruÊi se naletima opasnih vremena kada su njime koraËale vojske razliËitih dræava. Taj je divovski grad kroz povijest postupno propadao dok ga pod svoje okrilje nije uzeo »akavski sabor, sastavljen od nekoliko zaljubljenika u Hum, poput glavnog tajnika Sabora Zvane »rnje, koji je u poËeku sedamdesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa poËeo s kolegama revitalizaciju i spaπavanje gradiÊa.

U jedno proljetno jutro 1972. godine kljuËevi Huma predani su »akavskom saboru i tom prilikom Æeljko Marinac, predsjednik Skupπtine opÊine Buzet, s obzirom na tadaπnji broj od 16 stanovnika, nazvao je Hum (starohumski Hlm) najmanjim gradom na svijetu. Njegov glas Ëuo se u svim krajevima svijeta, a dospio je i do daleke Kine.

Piše/By Æeljka LaslaviÊ Fotografije/Photos Dražen LapiÊ

Iako æivjeti u najmanjem gradu na svijetu ne zvuËi previπe uzbudljivo, Humljanima nije nimalo dosadno. Cijeli svijet posjeÊuje Hum, u knjizi dojmova u konobi nalaze se rukopisi i crteæi iz svih kutova svijeta i posjetitelji najmanjega grada na cijelome svijetu ne razlikuju se mnogo od onih Londona ili Pariza.

Although living in the smallest town in the world does not seem to be too exciting, the citizens of Hum are not bored at all. The whole world visits Hum, and the visitors’ book in the konoba contains inscriptions and drawings from all the corners of the world. In terms of the structure of its visitors the smallest town in the world does not differ much from London or Paris.

CROATIA AIRLINES

45

Tako je osamdesetih godina u Hum stigao gradonaËelnik ©angaja s delegacijom i zamolio tadaπnjeg æupana Huma, Miloπa Merlaka, da se ta dva grada pobratime. Hum bi tako, s pridruæenih 18,000.000 stanovnika, postao najveÊi grad na svijetu. Ne bi bio problem dvadesetak Humljana ugostiti u ©angaju, no s obzirom na to da u Humu sobe iznajmljuju samo mjeπtani Nela i Franko, teπko da bi u Hum stalo viπe od dvije kineske obitelji. Iako je Hum dobio πangajsku plaketu, pobratimstvo se joπ nije dogodilo, no bilo bi zgodno ponovno aktivirati prijateljstvo najmanjega i jednoga od najveÊih gradova na svijetu.

Hum je i srediπe pisma glagoljice, πto se vidi i pri dolasku Alejom glagoljaπa, cestom duæine sedam kilometara od RoËa do Huma, gdje je, usred πume i livade, sagraeno jedanaest obiljeæja u Ëast glagoljici, u autorskoj reæiji kipara Æelimira Janeπa i knjiæevnika Josipa BratuliÊa. U Humu su, naime, Misal iz 1483. godine, najstariju tiskanu knjigu u Hrvatskoj, redigirali istarski popovi glagoljaπi.

Istarski studenti bili su jedni od prvih koji su sedamdesetih godina stigli Humu pruæiti prvu pomoÊ i neko vrijeme broj se stanovnika udvostruËio. Za njima su dolazili i studenti s drugih sveuËiliπta, iz Berlina, Milana, BeËa pa i SAD-a i Kanade, pa je Hum neko vrijeme æivio kao pravi multinacionalni grad. Masovne radne akcije u kojima su sudjelovali svi mjeπtani i oni koji su prepoznali vrijednost maloga grada, spasili su ga od propadanja vlastitim rukama.

Najpoznatiji su simboli grada gradski zid i vrata na kojima je zgodan glagoljaπki natpis: Vrata se ne zatvaraju danju, nema noÊi u ovom gradu. I nek ne ue nitko tko je okaljan. Grad ima i zvonik koji je nekoÊ sluæio za obranu, vijeÊnicu, dvije crkve i okolicu, Humπtinu, koju tvori tridesetak sela i zaselaka, od kojih je danas samo pet naseljeno.

Iako Istra ima svog æupana, Hum je nekim Ëudom uspio saËuvati tradiciju biranja lokalnog æupana svake godine. S obzirom na broj stanovnika, gotovo svi su imali Ëast uæivati tu titulu, i to po nekoliko puta. SveËana ceremonija odræava se svake godine u lipnju, kad se na glavnom trgu, gdje se nalazi tzv. vijeÊnica, okupljaju mjeπtani, 11 sudaca bira dva kandidata, za koja glasa oko 130 biraËa iz Humπtine. Koji kandidat dobije viπe ureza na raboπu (πtapu), nasljeuje æupanovu palicu.

Nekad je æupan bio nositelj pravde, odluËivao je u sukobima izmeu mjeπtana, kad bi se, primjerice, dva susjeda posvadila oko zemljiπta, onaj koji nije imao pravo ili koji je zbog neËega zgrijeπio, morao je platiti letinu, danak u vinu i prπutu, koji se dijelio mjeπtanima. ©teta πto se takva praksa danas nije nastavila u cijeloj Hrvatskoj. Hrvati bi danas bili bogat narod.

46

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

47

48

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

49

Uloga æupana danas je viπe figurativna, nadleæan je za organizaciju razliËitih manifestacija, razgovore s turistima i novinarima iz cijelog svijeta. Od ukupno sedam obitelji koje æive u Humu, uza æupana najpopularnija je osoba u Humu mladi Aleksandar Merlak, vlasnik obiteljske konobe i suvenirnice, koji je svojedobno bio najpoznatije dijete u Hrvatskoj. Njegovo lice izaπlo je u gotovo svim novinama kao prvoga novoroenËeta u Humu nakon 16 godina, tako da je Aleksandar zbog demografskog doprinosa postao svojedobnim simbolom grada.

U sezoni Hum na dan posjete stotine turista koji se sudaraju hodajuÊi po dvije uliËice i tri suvenirnice, pokuπavajuÊi fotoaparatima cijelo mjesto obuhvatiti u jedan kadar. Nevjerojatno zvuËi, ali posjetitelji se Ëesto izgube poπto se razdvoje u razgledavanju, πeÊu u krugu dok ne pronau suputnika jer neugodno im je mobitelom dogovarati se o mjestu ponovnog susreta. Parkiraju se gdje nau slobodno mjesto, ovjekovjeËe posjet jednim klikom, najedu se u glasovitoj Humskoj konobi i nestanu.

Hum tada ostaje prepuπten πaËici mjeπtana, toËnije njih 23 sluæbeno registriranih, bez trgovine, bez kina i kazaliπta, bez poπte i svega ostaloga πto bi izludjelo urbanu osobu. U toj veliËanstvenoj tiπini, kad posjetitelji odu svojim putem, a Humljani se povuku u toplinu svog doma, najmanji grad na svijetu, pod æutom svjetiljkom koja lomi svjetlost na kamenu, zasja u punom sjaju svoje tisuÊljetne postojanosti. »esto se ljudi pitaju kako mjeπtani mogu æivjeti tako izolirani u klaustrofobiËnoj i predvidljivoj svakodnevici, no upoznajuÊi pomalo ljude koji ondje æive cijeloga æivota, Ëovjek zakljuËi da njima ne nedostaje ama baπ niπta.

Iako po arhitekturi Hum izgleda kao mjesto kojemu je 21. stoljeÊe odmaklo u punoj brzini, komfor Humljana ne razlikuje se od naËina æivota stanovnika drugih suvremenih srediπta - do glavne ceste koja Hum povezuje s ostatkom svijeta samo je deset minuta.

Uostalom, cijeli svijet posjeÊuje Hum, u knjizi dojmova u konobi nalaze se rukopisi i crteæi iz svih kutova svijeta i posjetitelji najmanjega grada na cijelome svijetu ne razlikuju se mnogo od onih Londona ili Pariza. Iako æivjeti u najmanjem gradu na svijetu ne zvuËi previπe uzbudljivo, Humljanima nije nimalo dosadno.

Osim Dana Huma (Leto dan) koji su u posljednjih pet godina postali pravom cjelodnevnom feπtom, Hum je poznat i po Danima biske.

Zbog jedinstvenog nektara spravljenoga od imele, nastaloga upravo u malome Humu, po tradicionalnom receptu æupnika Josipa Vidana, poznavatelja ljekovitih trava, grad tih dana posjeti oko dvije tisuÊe turista, i tada situacija postaje priliËno kaotiËna. Æuta ili bijela, jaËa ili blaæa, biska svojom gorko-slat50

CROATIA AIRLINES

The Leading Human Resources Company in Croatia executive search | human resources consulting

www.selectio.hr

Oglas_CroatiaAirlines_210x280.indd 9

26.5.2010 16:35:59

kom esencijom imele vraÊa i one najumornije u æivot, neπto ljepπi, neπto opuπteniji, mnogo zanimljiviji. Ljeti se u Humu odræava i festival japanskoga animiranog filma, veËeri poezije Humsko ognjiπÊe u kojima se recitiraju verπi, stihovi od rakije, pa kad Ëovjek sve zbroji, u Humu po stanovniku ima viπe zabave nego u hrvatskoj metropoli. Zabave i turizma bilo je u Humu i πezdesetih godina, suraivalo se sa svim putniËkim agencijama iako nije bilo telefona. Tako bi, primjerice, agencije u Buzet slale telegramom rezervacije za ruËak i nije bilo otkazivanja, snalazilo se kako se moglo.

Maneπtra ili gulaπ od divljaËi, koji i danas krase jelovnik konobe, kuhali bi se po Ëetiri sata i bilo je uglavnom dovoljno jela za sve.

Hum je tako malen da je bespotrebno izvlaËiti iz njega joπ bilo koju osobitost, jer raspao bi se.

On je æivi muzej po sebi, Ëiji su najdragocjeniji izloπci ljudi, njih 23, koji tvore neoborivi stup najmanjega grada na svijetu. Grada u kojemu se svatko osjeÊa veliko i veliËanstveno, poput diva koji ne mari za klaustrofobiju, nego uæiva u mjestu po mjeri vlastite duπe. n

A

fter less than fifty steps along the main street, we reached the last stone house which blocked the view of Istria’s soothing, sunbathed expanse.

A man squatted behind the house, rearranging some stones. When we asked him what he was doing, he just laughed and briefly answered: I am finishing Hum. Thus began to unravel the mystery of the smallest town in the world mentioned for the first time in 1102 when it became a fief of the Aquileia Patriarchate. But how did Hum acquire the title of the smallest town in the world even it could not be entitled to such a status according to any bureaucratic rules?

In the Middle Ages Hum indeed enjoyed the status of a town, as did RoË and Motovun, but today Hum is a top brand, a legend that makes truth totally unimportant. According to a legend, the most interesting towns in the interior of Istria such as Motovun, Sovinjak, Groænjan and Buzet were built in the old times by giants who lived in the valley of the Mirna before the humans settled there. They were so big that they each worked on his own hill and passed stones to others. When they built what they wanted, they were left with some surplus stones and, for the sake of economy, constructed the tiny Hum. As the product of a surplus and true to its own boundaries Hum proved the meaning and the value of its existence, resisting the onslaughts of dangerous times when it was crossed by different armies.

During history the gigantic town slowly went to ruin until it fell under the aegis of the »akavski 52

CROATIA AIRLINES

Sabor Cultural Society, made up of a few people in love with Hum like the Sabor secretary general Zvanje »rnja, who started together with his colleagues to revive and save the town in the nineteen-seventies. On a summer morning in 1972 the keys of Hum were handed over to »akavski Sabor, and on the occasion Æeljko Marinac, chairman of the municipal assembly of Buzet, named Hum (or Hlm in Old Humian) as the smallest town in the world considering its population (16) at the time. Its fame spread all over the world and even reached faraway China. In the nineteen-eighties, the mayor of Shanghai arrived in Hum with his delegation and asked Miloπ Merlak, mayor of Hum at the time, to establish a sister city relationship.

This would make Hum, with the associated 18 million, the largest city in the world. Accommodating the twenty-odd citizens of Hum in Shanghai would pose no problem, but since rooms in Hum are let only by Ms. Nela and Franko, Hum could hardly accommodate more than two Chinese families. Although Hum got the Shanghai plaque, the sister city relationship has not yet come into being, but it would be nice to renew the friendship between the smallest town in the world and one of the world’s largest cities. Hum is also the centre of the glagolitic script, as clearly demonstrated on arrival by the Glagolitic Alley, a road seven kilometres long from RoË to Hum, with eleven monuments honouring the glagolitic script strung out along woods and meadows. It was in Hum that glagolitic priests edited in 1483 the Missal, the oldest printed book in Croatia.

Istrian students were among the first to arrive in Hum and provide first aid in the nineteenseventies, and for a time the population of the town doubled. They were followed by students from other universities, Berlin, Milan, Vienna, even the US and Canada, and for a time Hum lived like a truly multiethnic city. Mass work drives, with the participation of all citizens and those who recognized the worth of the minute town, saved Hum from destruction.

The best known symbols of the town are the town wall and the gate with an engaging glagolitic inscription: The gate is not closed by day, there is no night in this town. And let no man that hath a blemish enter.

The town also has a bell-tower, used formerly for defence, two churches, and its environs, Humπtina, with some thirty villages and hamlets, of which only five are still inhabited.

Although Istria has its own æupan (prefect), Hum miraculously succeeded in preserving the tradition of electing its own æupan every year. Considering the number of its inhabitants, almost every citizen has had the honour of enjoying this title even several times. The

solemn ceremony is held every year in June, when the citizens assemble in the main square in front of the town hall. Eleven judges elect two candidates, and about 130 voters from Humπtina cast their ballot. The æupan’s staff is given to the candidate who gets most notches on the tally. In old times the æupan was also the magistrate and decided in conflicts between citizens; thus, if two neighbours quarrelled about land, the one who was wrong or guilty of any offence had to pay letina, a tribute in wine and smoked ham which were distributed to the citizens. It is a pity that this practice has not been sustained throughout Croatia. Otherwise the Croats would today be a rich people.

The role of the æupan is now more figurative; he is responsible for the organization of events, and meetings with tourists and newsmen from all over the world. Among the altogether seven families in Hum, the most popular person - along with the æupan - is young Aleksandar Merlak, the owner of the family konoba (tavern) and gift shop, at one time the best known child in Croatia. His face appeared in almost every paper as the first newborn in Hum after 16 years, and Aleksandar’s demographic contribution made him a singular symbol of the town.

Hum is visited every day by hundreds of tourists bumping into one another in the two alleys and three gift shops and trying with their cameras to catch the whole place in a single take. However incredible that may sound, visitors often get lost after getting separated and walk in circles until they find their fellow traveller because they find it awkward to use their cell phone in order to agree where they should meet. They park their cars, perpetuate their visit with a single click, eat their fill at the famous Humska konoba and disappear.

Hum is then left to its handful of citizens, officially 23 of them to be accurate, with no shop, cinema or theatre, no post office and everything else that would drive an urban man to insanity. In this magnificent silence, when the visitors have gone their way and the people of Hum have retreated into their warm homes, under the yellow lamp the light of which diffracts on the stone paving the smallest town in the world shines forth with the full brilliance of its millennial persistence. People often ask themselves how people can lead such an isolated, claustrophobic and predictable everyday life. However, when you get to know the people who have spent all their life there, you gradually come to the conclusion that they do not lack anything at all. Although Hum, in terms of its architecture and setup, looks like a place which the twenty-first century has left at full sped, the conveniences of its citizens do

CROATIA AIRLINES

53

not differ from those enjoyed by the inhabitants of modern towns, and the highway connecting Hum with the rest of the world is barely ten minutes away. And, after all, the whole world visits Hum, and the visitors’ book in the konoba contains inscriptions and drawings from all the corners of the world. In terms of the structure of its visitors the smallest town in the world does not differ much from London or Paris. Although living in the smallest town in the world does not seem to be too exciting, the citizens of Hum are not bored at all. In addition to Leto Dan, Hum Day, an event that has become an all-day fête during the last five years, Hum is also known for its Biska Days. Thanks to biska, a unique nectar originating from this town and prepared from mistletoe after the traditional recipe of Josip Vidan, parish priest and herbalist, Hum attracts during these days about two thousand visitors, and the situation becomes fairly chaotic. Yellow or whitish, stronger or weaker, with its bitter-sweet essence biska restores even the most exhausted visitors back to a nicer, more relaxed and much more interesting life. In summer Hum is also the venue of the festival of Japanese animated films, of Humsko ognjiπÊe (Hum fireplace) poetry evenings where verπi, brandy inspired verses are recited.

Thus, when you sum it all up, on a per capita basis Hum offers more entertainment than the Croatian metropolis. There was entertainment and tourism in Hum also in the nineteen-sixties, and cooperation was established with all travel agencies even if there was no phone. Thus, for instance, agencies in Buzet cabled lunch reservations, and there were no cancellations, one managed one way or another. They prepared the minestra or the game goulash, which still grace the konoba menu, and there was always enough food for everybody.

Hum is so small that it would be unnecessary to draw any other specific feature out of it because it would fall apart. It is a live museum and its most precious exhibits are its people, the twenty-three who make up the indestructible pillar of the smallest town in the world - a town where everybody feels big and magnificent like a giant who does not care for claustrophobia but enjoys the place to the scale of his own soul. n

54

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

55

Visit picturesque medieval towns

ISTRIA . . . . . . more than a holiday on a sunny peninsula

Experience blue and green Istria

Dive into the crystal clear Adriatic Sea

www.istra.com 56

CROATIA AIRLINES

+385 52 880088

Best in Travel 2011, a special edition of the prestigious guidebook Lonely Planet, elected Istria at the second place among the world’s most interesting regions to visit.

Taste the Istrian gold

Discover three thousand years of history

CROATIA AIRLINES

57

58

CROATIA AIRLINES

MUZEJ MUSEUMS ■

L

jepota i vaænost stakla ne zastarijeva veÊ 4500 godina - pretpostavlja se da je sluËajno nastalo sredinom 3. tisuÊljeÊa pr. Kr. na podruËju Mezopotamije.

Prvi je poznati recept za proizvodnju stakla pronaen u ruπevinama knjiænice asirskog kralja Asurbanipala u Ninivi. Od tada pa do danas naËin dobivanja stakla nije se bitno promijenio - taljenjem osnovnih sastojaka: kvarcnog pijeska, alkalne supstancije i vapna pod visokom temperaturom te zatim hlaenjem, nastaje amorfna, tvrda i vrlo kruta talina.

Staklo je u antici imalo nevjerojatno veliku primjenu, od ukrasnih do popriliËno uporabnih predmeta. VeÊ od 1. st. pr. Kr., poπto su Rimljani od Sidonjana preuzeli vjeπtinu puhanja stakla, staklo postaje vaæan predmet trgovine, a vjeπtina izrade πiri se Sredozemljem dotiËuÊi i naπu obalu.

Bogatstvo otkrivenih antiËkih staklenih nalaza na zadarskom podruËju vrijedna je kulturnopovijesna baπtina, prikupljana godinama i zatim predoËena javnosti kad je u svibnju 2009. godine u Zadru otvoren specijalizirani muzej antiËkog stakla - jedinstven u svijetu. Muzej je smjeπten na gradskim renesansnim zidinama u palaËi stare zadarske obitelji Cosmacendi,

sagraenoj 1877. godine te dograenom, skladno uklopljenom staklenom aneksu koji je projektirao arhitekt Branko Silain.

Unutarnje ureenje Muzeja takoer je povjereno istom arhitektu, muzejsku koncepciju stalnog postava osmislio je ravnatelj novog muzeja, arheolog i povjesniËar umjetnosti dr.

Ivo FadiÊ. U moderno ureenome izloæbenom prostoru prevladavaju jednostavne, svijetle povrπine, u kojima savrπeno dolaze do izraæaja krhki stakleni izloπci. Na povrπini od 2575 Ëetvornih metara, osim izloæbenih dvorana, posjetiteljima su ponueni i dodatni sadræaji u knjiænici, kongresnoj dvorani, suvenirnici te radionici za puhanje stakla.

U prvoj dvorani u prizemlju, kao uvod u temu o antiËkom staklu, izloπci vode kroz zanimljivu priËu o povijesti staklarstva - od izuma stakla, alata, preko razvoja staklarstva do razliËitih tehnika izrade i naËina ukraπavanja. U susjednoj se prostoriji prikazuju dokumentarni filmovi o pronalasku stakla i tehnikama izrade, a u prostoriji aneksa predvien je prostor za gostujuÊe izloæbe, koji je tijekom 2010. godine ugostio poznatu skulpturu hrvatskog Apoksiomena.

Sedam meusobno kruæno povezanih soba na prvome katu ugodan su prostor stalnoga

Piše/By Edita GreguriÊ CveniÊ Fotografije/Photos Goran Saletto

ProzraËno, elegantno, jednostavno, Ëvrsto, a ipak krhko, staklo je jedno od najstarijih i najimpresivnijih ljudskih otkriÊa. Bogatstvo otkrivenih antiËkih staklenih nalaza na zadarskom podruËju vrijedna je kulturno-povijesna baπtina, prikupljana godinama i zatim predoËena javnosti kad je u svibnju 2009. godine u Zadru otvoren specijalizirani muzej antiËkog stakla - jedinstven u svijetu.

Serene, elegant, simple, hard and yet still fragile, glass is one of the oldest and most impressive human discoveries. The wealth of glass objects found in the Zadar area is a notable part of Croatian cultural-historic heritage. For years the glass was collected, and finally it was publicly displayed in May of 2009 when the specialized Museum of Ancient Glass was opened in Zadar − the only one of its kind in the world.

CROATIA AIRLINES

59

60

CROATIA AIRLINES

muzejskog postava Ëija se koncepcija zasniva na razliËitim tematskim cjelinama. Prostor proæima ambijentalna glazba skladana posebno za potrebe muzeja. Autor glazbe, zadarski skladatelj Milko Belevski, nazvao je svoja djela Doæivljaj stakla. I zaista, preko antiËkih staklenih izloæaka moæe se doæivjeti minuli svijet stanovnika Zadra i okolice iz doba Rimskoga Carstva od 1. st. pr. Kr. do 5. stoljeÊa. Ostaci staklenih predmeta otkrivaju njihovu svakodnevicu - kako su posluæivali hranu i piÊe, Ëime su se kitili, u Ëemu su Ëuvali mirise, pomade, lijekove, kako su pokapani…

U sobi s tematskom cjelinom KuÊanstvo prezentirana je raznolika primjena stakla u svakodnevnom æivotu, posebno u 1. i 2. stoljeÊu. Izloæeno je stolno stakleno posue: πalice, Ëaπe, zdjelice, vrËevi, ritoni, stakleni lijevci…, koniËnih, kruænih, jajolikih, plosnatih, trbuπastih oblika…, prozirni ili kobaltno plavi, tamnoljubiËasti, zelenkasti, smei, jantarno æuti ili crni - u neizmjernom bogatstvu oblika i boja. Poneki joπ djelomiËno ispunjeni osuπenim sadræajem potiËu na razmiπljanje πto se u njima Ëuvalo. Tako su u jednom tipu amfordiska otkriveni ostaci umaka garum, veoma cijenjenoga u antici.

Meu izloæenim kuÊanskim predmetima osobito su dekorativni lumini - staklene uljanice koniËna ili vretenasta tijela s plivajuÊim æiπkom, koje su davale svjetlo, ali i ukraπavale prostor. Staklo je uglavnom puhano u reljefno obraene kalupe, ali pritom se teæilo postiÊi vrhunsku kvalitetu i profinjenu ljepotu oblika. »ak su i jednostavni predmeti namijenjeni svakodnevnoj uporabi odavali teænju majstora za dekorativnoπÊu. Tijekom ljetnih mjeseci na drugom katu muzeja moæete vidjeti demonstraciju puhanja stakla s pomoÊu staklarske lule, upriliËenu kako bi se posjetiteljima pribliæilo to majstorsko umijeÊe i zahtjevna tehnika oblikovanja stakla.

Kao i danas, u antiËko je doba staklo bilo osobito cijenjeno u kozmetici, farmaciji i medicini, jer πtiti sadræaj od kemijskog djelovanja. U manje zdjelice i boËice spremane su pomade i pomasti - ljekoviti ili kozmetiËki pripravci. U balzamarijima su se Ëuvala razliËita eteriËna ulja koriπtena prilikom spaljivanja pokojnika na lomaËi kako bi se ublaæili neugodni mirisi. Tanki stakleni πtapiÊi dokaz su velikoga zanatskog umijeÊa, a najËeπÊe su sluæili za mijeπanje lijekova ili kozmetiËkih pripravaka. Mnogo je otkrivenih kapaljki, pseudomerkur boËica rabljenih u farmaciji, a osobito su zanimljivi stakleni recipijenti za isisavanje upaljenih dojki dojilja. Mnoge su staklene posudice bile vaæan dio æenskoga toaletnog stoliÊa, npr. aribalosi toaletne boËice u kojima su se Ëuvali parfemi ili pak staklene posude s bojama za kosu.

Nezaobilazni dio æenskih salona bio je i nakit, stoga se smisleno nadovezuje na prethodnu temu. Stakleni nakit - prstenje, ukosnice, ogrlice, narukvice, talismani, bilo da je rijeË o masivnim keltskim narukvicama ili fino izraenim staklenim privjescima - odavao je teænju za estetikom. Svaki je primjerak razliËit i osobit, prekrasan u svojoj jednostavnoj ljepoti.

Osobito je zanimljiva tematska cjelina Minijature - tu privlaËe paænju veoma mali stakleni primjerci od samo 2 ili 3 cm visine - minijaturni balzamariji, vrËiÊi i amfore, Ëija je uporabna vrijednost zbog veliËine vrlo upitna, stoga je vjerojatnije da su bili tek odraz iskazivanja vrhunskoga majstorskog umijeÊa.

Rariteti i unikati takoer pokazuju istanËan pristup izradi i visok umjetniËki doseg starih tehnika - rebraste zdjelice, amforice i aribalosi iz sjeveroitalskih staklarskih radionica, reljefno ornamentirani sirijski vrËiÊi, amforisci za posebne umake, ritoni te Ëaπe i zdjelice s grËkim tekstovima, meu kojima se pak mogu posebno izdvojiti skupocjeni balzamariji u obliku datulje od smeeg stakla, boca u obliku ribe, Ëaπa u ahat tehnici te πalica u obliku Ëeπera.

Tematska cjelina TrgovaËki putevi pokazuje kako je u antiËko doba veÊina staklene robe stizala u naπe krajeve morem. Staklo se uvozilo preteæno iz istoËnog Sredozemlja: Egipta, Sirije, Palestine, Cipra i GrËke; zatim s Apeninskog poluotoka: srediπnje Italije oko Rima i Pompeja; iz prostora sjeverne Italije oko Akvileje i neπto manje iz udaljenih galsko-rajnskih staklarskih srediπta.

Manji je dio muzejske grae proizveden u lokalnim staklarskim radionicama na juænoliburnskim lokalitetima - Iader (Zadar), Aenona (Nin) i Asseria (Podgrae kod Benkovca). Na njima je pronaeno obilje antiËkih staklenih izraevina - boca zvonolika tijela, boËica s uleknuÊima i vrËiÊa kvadratiËna tijela, Ëiji tipovi i oblici upozoravaju na postojanje lokalnih staklarskih radionica u razdoblju od druge polovice 1. do kraja 3. stoljeÊa. Je li rijeË o uvoznoj ili domaÊoj robi najlakπe je otkriti s pomoÊu reljefnih radioniËarskih æigova, koji najËeπÊe prikazuju ime ili simbol staklarske radionice.

U najveÊoj dvorani muzeja uprizoreni su razliËiti naËini ukopa pokojnika u doba antike. Od 1. st. pr. Kr. do kraja 3. st. Ëesti su bili obredi spaljivanja pokojnika, stoga je otkriveno i izloæeno mnogo staklenih urni i urneta, od minijaturnih oblika do onih veliËine 40 centimetara.

Staklene urne Ëesto su dodatno polagane u kamene ili keramiËke, a tako se obavljalo tzv. dvostruko pohranjivanje. Zato se uza staklene urne u Muzeju mogu vidjeti i primjerci kamenih i keramiËkih urni, u kojima su Ëuvani spaljeni ostaci pokojnika.

CROATIA AIRLINES

61

Prikazani su i ostali oblici ukopa iz tog doba skeletni pogreb u zidane grobnice ili ukop pod tegulama, krovnom opekom, ili pak keramiËke amfore u koje su najËeπÊe pokapana mala djeca. Pokraj pokojnika u grob su se stavljali bogati prilozi, zbog vjerovanja u zagrobni æivot: bili su to predmeti za svakodnevnu uporabu, za ugodniji æivot na onome svijetu. Upravo na temelju bogatih grobnih priloga danas moæemo priliËno detaljno spoznati æivot na naπim prostorima u antiËko doba.

Stakleni predmeti zadarske zbirke - prastari, njeæni, krhki, prekrasni u svojoj prozraËnoj ljepoti, opstali su punih 20 stoljeÊa, oËuvani u zemljanim slojevima, glinenim amforama, urnama. Oni nisu samo svjedoci naπe povijesti i naseljenosti hrvatskog prostora u antici, nego i visoke estetske razine i velikog umijeÊa majstora tog doba.

Zadarsku muzejsku zbirku od 2000 izloæenih predmeta nadopunjuje joπ gotovo 3000 primjeraka smjeπtenih u Ëuvaonici muzeja, koje tek Ëeka restauratorski postupak. Koliko je zanimljiva antiËka staklena graa, najbolje govori podatak da je u samo dva mjeseca nakon otvaranja muzej posjetilo 4000, a do danas viπe od 30.000 posjetitelja. Nanese li vas put u Zadar, svakako posjetite Muzej antiËkog stakla kako biste kroz priËu o staklu doæivjeli Ëudesnu ljepotu staklenih obliËja i pradavni svijet antike. n

T

he beauty and importance of glass has not become obsolete for the past 4500 years ∑ it is believed that glass was discovered by chance in the middle of the 3rd millennium B.C. in Mesopotamia.

The first known recipe for manufacturing glass was found in the ruins of the library of Assyrian King Asurbanipal at Nineveh. Since that time, the method of producing glass has not significantly changed ∑ the basic components: quartz sand, alkaline substances and sodalime are melted together at a high temperature and then cooled; the result of the process is formless, hard and very solid smelt. In ancient times glass had an incredibly great number of uses, from being decorative to being items of considerable use. Already during the 1st century B.C., after the Romans learned the art of glass blowing from the Sidonians, glass became an important trade item, and the art of glassmaking spread throughout the Mediterranean, all the way to our coast.

The wealth of glass objects found in the Zadar area is a notable part of our cultural-historic heritage. For years the glass was collected, and finally it was publicly displayed in May of 2009 when the specialized Museum of Ancient Glass was opened in Zadar ∑ the only one of

62

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

63

its kind in the world. The museum is situated within the city’s Renaissance walls in the Cosmacendi family home, built in 1877 and in the harmoniously constructed glass annex, which was designed by architect Branko Silain. The interior design of the museum was also entrusted to the same architect, while the concept for the permanent exhibition was conceived by the head of the new museum, archaeologist and art historian, Dr. Ivo FadiÊ.

The predominantly simple and bright areas in the modernly designed exhibition hall are the perfect backdrop for the fragile glass objects.

In addition to the exhibition hall, the 2,575 square meter museum also offers its visitors a library, congress hall, a souvenir shop, and a workshop for glass blowing.

As an introduction to the topic of ancient glass, in the first hall on the ground floor the displays lead you through an interesting story about the history of glass making ∑ from the discovery of glass, the tools used, through the development of glass making, to the various production techniques and decorating methods. In the next area you can watch documentary films about the discovery of glass and the production techniques. The area in the annex is foreseen as a venue for guest exhibits. In 2010 this area was used to display Croatia’s famous Apoxyomenos sculpture.

There are seven connecting rooms that go around in a circle on the first floor. This comfortable area is used for the museum’s permanent collection, the concept of which is based on different themes. Ambient music that was composed especially for the museum permeates the area. The author of the music, composer Milko Belevski from Zadar, named his piece Experiencing Glass. Indeed, through the exhibits of ancient glass you can experience the past world of the inhabitants of Zadar and its surroundings during the time of the Roman Empire, from the 1st century B.C. to the 5th century. The remains of the glass artefacts reveal their everyday lives ∑ how they served food and drinks, how they decorated themselves, where they kept their perfumes, creams and medicines in, how they were buried...

The room with the theme Household presents the various functions of glass in everyday life, especially in the 1st and 2nd century A.C. On display you can see glass table wares: cups, glasses, bowls, jugs, ritons, glass funnels... conical, circular, oval, flat and bulgy shapes... transparent or cobalt blue, dark purple, green, brown, amber yellow or black ∑ a myriad of rich shapes and colours. Some of them are still partly filled with dried contents that prompt you to think about what they held. In one amphora the remains of garum sauce (fermented fish 64

CROATIA AIRLINES

sauce) were found, which was quite popular in ancient times. Among the household items displayed are the decorative lumini lamps ∑ glass oil burning lamps with conical or cylindrical bases with floating wicks, which not only gave off light, but adorned the space as well. Glass pieces were mostly blown in relief molds, in an attempt to achieve high quality and delicate and beautiful forms. Even the simplest items that were meant for everyday use demonstrate the glass makers’ aspiration for decorativeness. During the summer months, on the second floor of the museum there are demonstrations of glass blowing using a glass pipe. This is organized so that the visitors can better understand the skills of the masters and the demanding techniques used to form glass.

Just as it is today, during ancient times glass was especially valuable for cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and medicines because it protected the contents from chemical reactions.

Creams and ointments used for medicinal and cosmetic preparations were stored in smaller bowls and bottles. Balsam bottles were used to store different essential oils which were meant to cover up the unpleasant smells at funerals when the bodies were cremated.

The ability to make thin glass sticks testifies to a craftsman’s great skill, and the sticks were most often used for mixing medicine or cosmetic preparations. Many droppers were discovered, pseudo-mercury bottles used in pharmacies, but particularly interesting are the glass containers used to store milk pumped from the inflamed breasts of nursing mothers. Glass bowls were an important part of a woman’s toiletry table, for example, aribalo toiletry bottles that were used to hold perfume or even glass jars that held hair dye.

An inevitable part of ladies’ salons was their jewellery, which is a logical sequel to the previous theme. Glass jewellery ∑ rings, hair pins, necklaces, bracelets, talismans, either massive Celtic bracelets or delicate handmade glass pendants ∑ demonstrate high aesthetic aspirations. Every item is different and unique; breathtaking in its simple beauty.

Particularly interesting are the Miniatures ∑ as these extremely small glass items, only 2 or 3 cm tall, draw your attention. The usefulness of the miniature balsam bottles, jars and amphorae is quite questionable; it is more likely that they were just a way for the masters to demonstrate their supreme skills.

Collector’s items and unique items also show a refined approach to the craft and the great artistic range of the old techniques ∑ ribbed bowls, amphorae, and aribalo bottles from the workshops of glass makers in Southern Italy,

reliefs of ornamental Syrian jars, amphorae for special sauces, ritons, as well as glasses and bowls with Greek wording. Among them, we would perhaps point out the precious balsam bottles in the shape of dates and made from brown glass, the bottle in the shape of a fish, a glass made using the agate technique and a glass in the shape of a cone.

The theme Merchant Travels shows how most of the glass items came to our area by sea during ancient times. Glass was mostly imported from the Eastern Mediterranean: Egypt, Syria, Palestine, Cyprus and Greece; as well as from the Apennine Peninsula: the area around Rome and Pompeii in the middle of Italy; from areas in Northern Italy near Aquileia; and somewhat fewer came from further afield: Gallic glass centres in the Rhine valley. A small part of the museum collection was produced in local glass workshops in the Southern Liburian centres - Iadera (Zadar), Aenona (Nin) and Asseria (a settlement near Benkovac). Plenty of ancient glass artefacts were found here, such as bell-shaped bottles, bottles with concave shapes and square-bodied jars, whose types and forms inform us about the existence of

local glass workshops in the period between the first half of the 1st century to the end of the 3rd century. The easiest way to determine if the goods were made locally or were imported is to inspect the reliefs of the workshops’ seals, which most often depict the name or the symbol of the glass making workshop.

In the biggest hall of the museum there are depictions of the various ways that the deceased were buried during ancient times.

From the 1st century B.C. to the end of the 3rd century, the deceased were often ceremoniously cremated, thus many urns and urnlets were discovered and are on display, from miniature forms to those that are 40 centimetres in size. The glass urns were often also placed in stone or ceramic, which is how a so-called double storage was achieved. As a result, in the museum you can find glass urns along with examples of stone and ceramic urns, in which the ashes of the deceased were kept.

Other forms of burials from that period are also presented ∑ skeletal burials in the built crypts or burials under the so-called tegulae, roof tiles, or perhaps ceramic amphorae in which young children were most often buried. People CROATIA AIRLINES

65

used to place luxurious items in the grave with the deceased, because they believed in the afterlife. These were everyday items which were supposed to make life on the other side more comfortable. Based on those luxurious contributions found in the graves, today we have a fairly detailed understanding of life in this area during ancient times.

The glass artefacts in the Zadar collection ∑ ancient, delicate, fragile, magnificent in their serene beauty, have survived for 20 centuries, preserved in the layers of the earth, in clay amphorae and urns. Not only do they stand witness to our history and the Croatian settlements in ancient times, but also to the high level of aesthetics and the great skills of the masters during that time.

The Zadar museum collection contains 2000 displayed artefacts and another 3000 items that are located in the museum’s storage facility, awaiting restoration. How interesting these ancient glass items really are is best illustrated by the fact that in just the first two months after its opening, the museum was visited by 4000 people, and until today there have been more than 30,000 visitors. Should your travels bring you to Zadar, a visit to the Museum of Ancient Glass would certainly be worth your while. Through stories about glass you can experience the wonderful beauty of the glass shapes and the immemorial ancient world. n 66

CROATIA AIRLINES

Kvarner − raznolikost je lijepa Kvarner − diversity is beautiful

Pojam Kvarner Qua(te)rnarius u jeziku starih Rimljana znaËi Ëetiri nebeska pravca koji se upravo ovdje sreÊu. Svjetovi su to koji vas Ëekaju, oplemenjuju i obogaÊuju i u koje Êete se, pouzdano, s radoπÊu vraÊati. I od tisuÊu moguÊosti koje vam se nude, stvorit Êete samo svoju priËu....

The name Kvarner comes from the Latin word Qua(te)rnarius, meaning the four cardinal directions that meet at this very point. This is a region of enchanting diversity and new experiences, a place where you will definitely want to return over and over again. Choose from the wide range of possibilities to create your very own Kvarner story...

P

rimorski krajolik ovdje je u neposrednoj blizini πumskoga, a svijet mondenoga turistiËkog srediπta tako je drugaËiji od jednostavnog ritma otoËkoga æivota. Ovdje Êete uæivati u mnogim priredbama i festivalima na kojima gostuju vrhunski svjetski i hrvatski umjetnici razliËitih izriËaja, posjetiti svetiπta, pisati staroslavenskim pismom glagoljicom ili pak, pod maskom, biti ono πto ste oduvijek æeljeli.

Kvarner Samo vaπa priËa Posvojite dupina ili promatrajte let bjeloglava supa. Uæivajte u aromaterapiji na otvorenome ili pak zoru doËekajte s ribarima na puËini.

IspraÊajte brodove kao πto su to stoljeÊima radile æene kapetana. Sanjkajte se ili skijajte gledajuÊi s planinskih obronaka − more.

Kuπajte jela i slastice od πumskih plodova ili pak morske specijalitete zaËinjene veoma cijenjenim maslinovim uljem. Nazdravite vrhunskim vinom. ©eÊite opatijskim lungomarom i uæivajte u stoljetnim parkovima, zapleπite u prekrasnoj dvorani ili uæivajte u bogatoj wellness ponudi i tretmanima koji obnavljaju tijelo i duh. Uæivajte u otoËkoj tradiciji i samo za vas oæivjelim obiËajima. Pod maskama, na karnevalu, budite ono πto ste oduvijek æeljeli biti...

Koliko razliËitih moguÊnosti, koliko joπ neispriËanih priËa i prekrasnih krajolika zbog kojih slogan kvarnerskog turizma glasi: Raznolikost je lijepa. I doista jest!

Jedinstvo suprotnosti Primorski krajolik ovdje je u neposrednoj blizini πumskoga, mediteransko podneblje i naËin

æivota nasuprot su planinskoj klimi, a svijet mondenoga turistiËkog srediπta 150-godiπnje tradicije toliko je drugaËiji od jednostavnog ritma otoËkoga æivota. Na Kvarneru, regiji na kojoj se suprotnosti spajaju u savrπen sklad bezbrojnih moguÊnosti, svoj Êe kutak pronaÊi oni koji vole bljeπtavilo mondenih ljetovaliπta, poput Opatije, dinamiËnost gradova kao πto je Rijeka, turistiËku tradiciju Crikvenice i Novog Vinodolskog, otoka Cresa i Loπinja, Krka i Raba…

Samo poneki kilometar od mora oËekuje vas posve drugaËija slika πumovitoga Gorskog kotara koji vam nudi moguÊnost opuπtanja i rekreacije u svako doba godine. Njegov uskliËnik svakako je Nacionalni park Risnjak.

Bujne πume, zanimljiv æivotinjski svijet i CROATIA AIRLINES

67

raskoπni kraπki oblici naπli su u okrilju Risnjaka posljednje sigurno utoËiπte.

Nema dvojbe, ta je regija i najbolji scenarij za vaπ aktivan odmor ili pak uspjele poslovne susrete.

Wellness odrediπta duge tradicije, pjeπaËke ili biciklistiËke staze, planinarenje ili pak adrenalinski sportovi, likovne ili kulinarske radionice, berba maslina ili agruma ...πto god izabrali, bit Êete sjedinjeni s prirodom i uæivati u njezinim mirisima i bojama, svjeæem zraku i energiji i zbog toga biti vedriji, jaËi i spremniji za svakim danom sve veÊe æivotne izazove.

Kulturna riznica Posluπajte vrhunski jazz ili klapsku pjesmu, zapleπite uza zvuke evergreena, pogledajte kazaliπnu predstavu na otvorenome ili pak posjetite neku od mnogih galerija. U Kvarneru Êete uæivati u brojnim manifestacijama, kulturnim priredbama i festivalima na kojima gostuju vrhunski svjetski i hrvatski umjetnici raliËitih izriËaja, posjetiti svetiπta, pisati staroslavenskim pismom glagoljicom ili pak uæivati u dogaanjima temeljenima na tradiciji. I zajedno Êete sa zvonËarima tjerati zimu ili pak pod maskama, u dugim karnevalskim povorkama, smjelo govoriti o svakidaπnjici ili se prepustiti maπti. U Astronomskom centru Rijeka, najsuvremenijemu u ovom dijelu Europe, saznat Êete sve o zvijeæu Ëiju romantiËnu stranu moæete provjeriti za prekrasnih, vedrih i tako romantiËnih kvarnerskih noÊi...

Moæda ipak niste znali da je Kvarner i prava riznica kulturnih spomenika, priredaba i ma-

68

CROATIA AIRLINES

nifestacija zbog kojih Êe vaπ boravak biti joπ zanimljiviji i ugodniji. Naime, upravo je ovdje nastao najstariji pisani spomenik hrvatskoga jezika − BaπËanska ploËa (1100.), najstariji tekst hrvatskoga srednjovjekovnoga obiËajnog prava iz 13. stoljeÊa Vinodolski zakonik, itd. Iz ovoga je kraja svjetski priznati umjetnik Julije KloviÊ, po mnogima Michelangelo minijature…

Tu su prekrasni akropolski gradiÊi koji æive sve intenzivnije i prekrasno su mjesto za dolazak, predah ili dulji boravak.

Upravo je na podruËju Kvarnera, u maloloπinjskom akvatoriju, nedavno pronaen i kip Apoksiomena, grËkog atleta iz 4. stoljeÊa prije Krista.

I joπ je mnogo spomenika, vrhunskih priredaba kao i lokalnih feπti zbog kojih dan ovdje traje dulje a srce kuca jaËe.

Tu, vama nadomak…

Kvarner intenzivno turistiËki æivi cijele godine, pruæajuÊi izvanredne moguÊnosti za aktivan odmor, zdravstveni turizmam kao i odræavanje poslovih skupova. Nudi vam smjeπtaj u vrhunskim hotelima, apartmanskim naseljima, nautiËkim centrima, kampovima i kuÊnoj radinosti.

U vaπoj je neposrednoj blizini i lako dostupan, izvanredno povezan auto-cestama, zrakoplovima, brodskim vezama te æeljeznicom. Uostalom, i rijeË Kvarner Qua(te)rnarius u jeziku starih Rimljana znaËi Ëetiri nebeska pravca, koji se upravo sreÊu ovdje. Svjetovi su to koji vas Ëekaju, oplemenjuju i obogaÊuju i u koje Êete se, pouzdano, s radoπÊu vraÊati. I od tisuÊu moguÊosti koje vam se nude, stvorit

Êete samo svoju priËu.... san koji na Kvarneru moæete æivjeti....

■

H

ere on Kvarner, with coastal landscapes lying right alongside their forest hinterland, the vibrant rhythm of elegant tourist resorts differs so much from the easy pace of traditional life on the islands. There is always plenty to do here − participating in festivals, enjoying performances by famous Croatian or international artists, visiting sacred shrines and places, learning how to write the Old Slavic Glagolitic alphabet or donning a mask and becoming whatever you want to be during the heady days of carnival…

Kvarner Make it your own Adopt a dolphin or watch the griffon vultures in flight. Feel the benefits of aromatherapy in the open air or welcome in the dawn with fishermen at sea. Wave goodbye to ships like captains’ wives used to do for centuries. Enjoy sledding or skiing within sight of the sea. Taste traditional dishes and desserts made from fruits of the forest, or seafood specialities prepared with highly appreciated olive oil. Raise a toast with a glass of top-quality wine. Take a walk along Opatija’s Lungomare coastal promenade and through historic, well-tended parks, get in the rhythm in the splendid atmosphere of the area’s magnificent dancehalls, or choose something just for you from the extensive offer of wellness treatments that renew both body and mind.

Learn more about the ancient traditions and

CROATIA AIRLINES

69

customs of the islands that are being brought back to life. Join in a carnival party, put on a mask and become what you’ve always wanted to be…

So many different possibilities, so many stories to be told, so many wonderful landscapes to investigate! It is no accident that Kvarner has adopted the tourism slogan Diversity is beautiful.

Because indeed it is!

The union of opposites Here on Kvarner, where the coastal landscape lies so close to the forests, the Mediterranean climate and way of life are just a step away from the mountainous hinterland and the elegant tourist and health resorts with a long tradition of tourism are so different from the simple rhythm of life on the islands. On Kvarner, the region where opposites merge into a perfect harmony of endless possibilities, every visitor will find something to suit their needs: elegant coastal resorts such as Opatija, dynamic towns such as Rijeka, traditional hospitality in Crikvenica and Novi Vinodolski, or on the islands of Cres, Loπinj, Krk and Rab… Just a few kilometres in from the coast, completely different landscapes await you in Gorski kotar, a wooded region perfect for relaxation and recreation at any time of the year. Its highlight is Risnjak National Park, which abounds in lush forests, interesting wildlife and magnificent karst formations.

There is no doubt: Kvarner is the ideal venue for your activity holiday or successful business meeting.

Wellness resorts steeped in tradition, walking and biking trails, hiking and adrenaline sports, art and cooking workshops, harvesting of olives or citrus fruits... whatever your choice, this is where you will become one with nature, its fragrances and colours, fresh air and energy, making you more cheerful, stronger and bet-

70

CROATIA AIRLINES

ter prepared for the increasing challenges of modern life.

Cultural treasure trove Listen to excellent jazz performances, or concerts by a traditional klapa vocal singing group, dance to the sound of popular melodies, enjoy a theatrical performance in the open air or visit some of the area’s numerous galleries. Here on Kvarner you can chose from plenty of events and festivals featuring famous Croatian and international artists, visit sacred places and shrines, try your hand at writing the Old Slavic Glagolitic alphabet, or enjoy events based on local tradition. During the carnival, join with the zvonËari bell-ringers to chase winter away, or put on a mask and join in a carnival parade to comment on actual events or let your imagination go. In Rijeka Astronomy Centre, the most modern of its kind in this part of Europe, there is plenty to learn about the starry sky and enjoy its more romantic side during wonderful bright Kvarner nights...

You may not have known that Kvarner is also a treasure chest of cultural monuments and events that will make your stay here even more interesting and fulfilling. Kvarner is home to some of the oldest documents ever written in the Croatian language, like the Baπka Tablet from the year 1100, or the Vinodol Law from the 13th century − the oldest text about Croatian medieval common law. This region is also the birthplace of Julije KloviÊ, an artist renowned as the Michelangelo of the miniature. The area’s landscape is dotted with enchanting hilltop towns that are ideal for short breaks or longer holidays.

It was here in the Kvarner region too, or more precisely in the waters off the island of Loπinj, that the statue of Apoxyomenos, a Greek athlete from the 4th century BC, was recently found.

There are many other visitor attractions, performances and local traditions to enjoy here, making the days last longer, and hearts beat stronger.

Within easy reach…

Here on Kvarner life goes on right throughout the year, offering excellent opportunities for activity holidays, health tourism and business conventions. And excellent accommodation too in superb hotels, holiday villages, marinas, campsites and private houses or apartments.

For many, this region is almost just around the corner − for it can be easily reached by road, air, sea or railway from many parts of central Europe. After all, the word Kvarner comes from the Latin word Qua(te)rnarius, meaning the four cardinal directions that meet here. It’s a region of enchanting diversity, filling visitors with new sensations. A place to which you will definitely want to return over and over again. Choose from the wide range of possibilities to create your very own story... a dream that can be lived right here on Kvarner!

■

CROATIA AIRLINES

71

■ OBALA COAST

72

CROATIA AIRLINES

Piπe/By Davorka Vukov ColiÊ

Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

CROATIA AIRLINES

73

74

CROATIA AIRLINES

Rijeku prepoznaju kao grad bogate industrijske baπtine, grad kulture, dinamiËnoga gradskog æivota, tolerantnih i gostoljubivih stanovnika. To je i grad okrenut buduÊnosti, grad ideja mladih, koji prπti njihovom energijom. A tek kad se na Trsatu dovrπi golemi sveuËiliπni kampus za tisuÊe studenata… Rijeka Êe se tako joπ jedanput potvrditi kao vitalan grad otvoren mladima.

CROATIA AIRLINES

75

76

CROATIA AIRLINES

Rijeka is known as a city with a rich industrial heritage, a city of culture, with a dynamic lifestyle and tolerant and hospitable inhabitants. It is a city that is open toward the future, a city that is bursting with energy based on the ideas of its young citizens. Just imagine what it will be like when the huge university campus for thousands of students will be completed on Trsat... Once again Rijeka will confirm its status as a vibrant city that is open to young people.

CROATIA AIRLINES

77

78

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

79

80

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

81

82

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

83

84

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

85

86

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

87

88

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

89

90

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

91

92

CROATIA AIRLINES

R

ijeka je oduvijek bila, a i danas jest, raskrπÊe novih ideja i senzibiliteta, poveznica mora i kopna, proπlosti i buduÊnosti. Dok je Zagreb 1914. mogao nabrojiti samo tri hotela, a Opatija sedamnaest, Rijeka ih je imala dvadeset. Iste je godine u njoj radilo sedam kinematografa, Ëetiri u Puli, a u Zagrebu samo tri. U gradu su bila 22 konzulata, a luka je imala 39 teretnih linija duge plovidbe i 31 liniju male i velike obalne plovidbe. Grad je bio krcat prekomorskom robom, putnicima i mornarima, pruæajuÊi dom kapetanima, govorilo se mnogim jezicima svijeta. Tu se æivjelo hitrije pa se bræe i razmiπljalo o novim pothvatima - veÊ 1930. na Grobniku je sagraena prva zraËna luka, a godinu poslije uvedene zraËne linije do Zagreba, Splita, Sarajeva i Beograda.

Zbog razvijene trgovine æeljezom, uljem, drvom, vunom, stokom i koæom, grad joπ u 16. stoljeÊu doæivljava trgovinski procvat i kulturni napredak, te nije Ëudno πto je zanimljiv austrijskom caru Karlu VI., koji ga u 18. stoljeÊu proglaπava slobodnom lukom, a Ugarsku privlaËi kao idealan izlaz na Jadran. Idealan zemljopisni poloæaj i 60 metara dubine Kvarnerskog zaljeva, dovoljne za uplov najveÊih brodova duboka gaza, te dva vaæna kopnena prometna pravca, jedan prema panonskoj unutraπnjosti, a drugi prema istoËnoalpskom prostoru, izvrsnii su uvjeti u kojima Rijeka u 19. stoljeÊu izrasta u jednu od najveÊih srednjoeuropskih luka i moÊno industrijsko srediπte.

O vremenu trgovaËkog uzleta svjedoËi i barokna palaËa AdamiÊ na Fiumari. U drugoj polovini 18. stoljeÊa sagradio ju je veletrgovac i posjednik ©imun AdamiÊ, koji se nakon dolaska u Rijeku tako obogatio da je praznovjerni puk vjerovao kako mu pomaæu tajne sile. SluËajno otkriveni arheoloπki nalaz na njegovu imanju u MartinπÊici, u maπti RijeËana pretvorio se u tajnovito zakopano blago, zbog Ëega su ga neki prijavili vlastima, te je dospio u zatvor, odakle ga je, uz posredovanje cara Josipa II., izbavio sin Andrija Ljudevit. Za osvetu, razjareni stari AdamiÊ pred svoju je novu elegantnu palaËu postavio uz nogostup Ëetrnaest kamenih stupiÊa s poprsjima ljudi koji su laæno svjedoËili protiv njega.

Gotovo stoljeÊe poslije, palaËa je nadograena, a u nju smjeπtena Hrvatska gimnazija, rasadnik istaknutih hrvatskih intelektualaca, znanstvenika i knjiæevnika, a posramljeni AdamiÊevi svjedoci danas poËivaju u parku Pomorskoga i povijesnog muzeja. A da je Rijeka bila puna æivopisnih likova, potvruje i AdamiÊev sin Andrija Ljudevit. Bio je bankar, trgovac, industrijalac i graevinski tehniËar, projektirao je i sagradio vlastito kazaliπte, osnovao moderan orkestar, dovodio u grad kazaliπne druæine, utemeljio trgovaËki klub

i zalagao se za gradnju velikog hotela za poslovne ljude i trgovce. Jedan je od takvih i znameniti austrijski vojni Ëasnik, grof Laval Nugent. Roeni Irac, Nugent je kupio i obnavljao nekoliko dvoraca u Hrvatskoj, ali osobito se zaljubio u srednjovjekovni Trsatski kaπtel, koji je obnovio i u njemu dræao kolekciju umjetnina, te sagradio mauzolej za sebe i obitelj.

Dugo pod vlaπÊu Habsburgovaca, grad je u zamrπenoj povijesti devetnaestog i burne prve polovine proπloga stoljeÊa Ëesto mijenjao gospodare. Od 1848. godine pripojen je Banskoj Hrvatskoj, dvadesetak godina poslije Maarskoj, pa kao najveÊi maarski pomorsko-luËki centar, glavni je rival Trstu pod austrijskom upravom. U to je doba veliko gradiliπte. Sagraena je Tvornica papira Hartera, u rad je puπtena prva plinara, utemeljena rafinerija nafte, æeljezniËka pruga Rijeka - Karlovac, a gradom, osobito duæ Rive, niËu reprezentativne zgrade, poput palaËe Adria, Guvernerove palaËe ili zgrade Casa Veneziana, vlasniπtvo tvorniËara Roberta Whiteheada. Taj britanski strojarski inæenjer osnovao je tvornicu torpeda, poπto je zapovjednik austrougarske pomorske fregate, RijeËanin Ivan Luppis, izumio to oruæje, koje je ubrzo postalo standardno naoruæanje razvijenijih ratnih mornarica. To je vrijeme kad su RijeËani i u estetskome, duhovnome i praktiËnom smislu djelovali moderno.

Novosagraeno OpÊinsko kazaliπte, danaπnje Hrvatsko narodno kazaliπte Ivana pl. Zajca, ukraπava poznati Gustav Klimt, gradom je od 1899. vozio elektriËni tramvaj, Frano Supilo 1900. pokreÊe Novi list (poslije RijeËki Novi list), najstarije dnevne novine u Hrvatskoj, RijeËani se ponose autorom najpopularnije hrvatske opere Nikola ©ubiÊ Zrinjski, Ivanom pl. Zajcom, a u tom ozraËju odrasta prkosni, pustolovni pjesnik Janko PoliÊ Kamov.

A negdje potkraj svakog sijeËnja, rijeËki gradonaËelnik predaje kljuËeve grada meπtru karnevala, koji sve do Pepelnice i spaljivanja pusta pretvara Rijeku u najveseliju toËku na zemljopisnoj karti Hrvatske. U to vrijeme grad na RjeËini ulazi u peto godiπnje doba, kako RijeËani zovu dane karnevala, koji je u nepuna tri desetljeÊa prerastao u jednu od najveÊih manifestacija takve vrste u Europi. Od prve povorke 1982. u organizaciji TuristiËke zajednice grada Rijeke, kao podsjeÊanje na staru, zaboravljenu i zapuπtenu mesopusnu tradiciju, Karneval je prerastao u spektakl Ëije πarenilo i maπtovitost mnogi mjere s onim u Veneciji i Rio de Janeiru. Od djece do noniÊa, tijekom petoga godiπnjeg doba svi uæivaju u tancima, feπtama i natjecanjima, karnevalske grupe za to æive cijelu godinu, a viπesatna mamutska povorka namaπkaranih veseljaka vrhunac je i

zavrπetak karnevalske sezone, kad se na ulice i trgove slije deset tisuÊa sudionika, stotinu tradicijskih i urbanih karnevalskih grupa iz zemlje i inozemstva i stotinu tisuÊa gledatelja.

PoËelo je skromno, ali preraslo je u neπto πto mijenja imidæ administrativnog srediπta Primorsko-goranske æupanije kao strogoga industrijskoga, luËkoga i tranzitnoga grada, kroz koji su prolazili ljudi i roba, zadræavajuÊi se u njemu kratko na putu za daleka europska i svjetska odrediπta. Za turizam na ovom dijelu Jadrana tradicionalno su bili zaduæeni Opatija i Lovran, a sada i Rijeka postaje zimi turistiËka meka. TreÊi grad po veliËini u Hrvatskoj tako pokazuje dva lica, ono veselo i razuzdano, i ono ozbiljno, poslovno, kako dolikuje luci koja je prije stotinu godina bila po ukupnom prometu osma u Europi, a poslije Drugoga svjetskog rata brodograditeljski div, imala jednu od najstarijih tvornica papira i torpeda, rafineriju nafte u Urinju, kemijsku industriju i zraËnu luku na susjednom Krku (godine 2011. oËekuje se promet od 250.000 putnika), osiguravajuÊa druπtva i trgovaËke tvrtke, te bila jedno od najvaænjih financijskih srediπta bivπe dræave.

Svikli na promjene vlasti, RijeËani su nauËili biti poligloti. S kraja 19. i u poËetku 20. stoljeÊa ravnopravno su se koristili hrvatskim, talijanskim, njemaËkim i maarskim jezikom, a nakon zavrπetka Prvoga svjetskog rata, ameriËki predsjednik Wilson predloæio je Rijeku za sjediπte Lige naroda, preteËe Ujedinjenih naroda. Izabrana je ipak Æeneva, a za Rijeku to je bio poËetak novih politiËkih turbulencija, pa su RijeËani, roeni 1913., a doæivjeli 1991., promijenili πest dræava: Austro-Ugarsku, Slobodnu Dræavu Rijeku, Kraljevinu Italiju, TreÊi Reich (NjemaËku), SFR Jugoslaviju i, napokon, Republiku Hrvatsku! Izmeu dva rata Rijeka je Ëak podijeljena izmeu dviju dræava, jer uπÊe RjeËine bilo je dræavna granica izmeu zapadne obale pod vlaπÊu Italije i istoËne, Suπaka, pod vlaπÊu Kraljevine Srba, Hrvata i Slovenaca.

A Rijeku cijene kao grad industrijske arhitekture, koja danas dobiva nove duhovne sadræaje. Nekadaπnji industrijski pogoni na podruËju Mlake i oko Industrijske ulice oæivljuju kao povremene pozornice kazaliπnih predstava i koncerata. Tako Rijeka, kao uvijek do sada, ide dalje. Sa Zagrebom i slovenskom granicom povezuju je nove, najsuvremenije cestovne prometnice, promet u gradu rastereÊen je gradnjom suvremenih zaobilaznica, na PeÊinama je otvoren Tower Centar Rijeka, jedan od najveÊih trgovaËkih centara u ovom dijelu Europe, obnovljeni su najpoznatiji hoteli, a nad Mrtvim kanalom zavrπen Most hrvatskih branitelja, nagraivan uglednim meunarodnim nagradama za arhitekturu i inovativnu tehnologiju. Prije dvije CROATIA AIRLINES

93

godine otvoren je Kompleks bazena na Kantridi - prvi veliki sportski objekt u Rijeci nakon viπe od 30 godina, a u njemu je odræano Europsko prvenstvo u plivanju u kratkim bazenima. Luka se sprema za suvremenu ulogu Vrata Srednje Europe, pripremajuÊi novo luËko pristaniπte, a iza zgrada Trænice, uz obalu, trebaju niknuti parkovi, te novi zabavni i kulturni sadræaji.

Rijeku mnogi nazivaju gradom rock’n’rolla, Novi val i punkerski pokret obiljeæili su je viπe no bilo koje drugo urbano srediπte u Hrvatskoj, a alternativna kultura postala je svojevrsni gradski folklor, osobito zanimljiv mladim turistima. Prvi punk bendovi u dræavi, Paraf i Termiti, nastali su upravo u gradu na RjeËini, a zbog blizine i dobrih prometnih veza sa Zapadom, novi trendovi ovdje su brzo puπtali korijenje.

Za mnoge posjetitelje Rijeka je osobito privlaËna zbog Trsatskog svetiπta, najstarijega marijanskog svetiπta u Hrvatskoj, neizostavnog cilja πtovatelja Marijina kulta, na obliænjoj uzvisini ponad grada, koji su ovamo hodoËastili stoljeÊima. U njemu Êe danaπnji hodoËasnici ispred crkve Gospe Trsatske naiÊi na spomenik Ivana Pavla II. u Ëast njegova treÊega pastoralnog posjeta Hrvatskoj, kad je u lipnju 2003. posjetio i ovo svetiπte. Legenda kaæe da je potkraj 13. stoljeÊa, na danaπnjem svetiπtu, osvanula Sveta kuÊa u kojoj je æivjela Sveta obitelj. Na Trsat su je iz Nazareta prenijeli aneli, a nakon toga odnijeli u Loreto, blizu Ancone, gdje se i danas nalazi…

Na Trsatu dovrπava se i golemi SveuËiliπni kampus, jedinstven u Hrvatskoj, koji Êe primati tisuÊe studenata, a nakon njegova dovrπenja, kaæu, Rijeka neÊe biti ista. U prvoj je fazi sagraeno i obnovljeno gotovo sto tisuÊa Ëetvornih metara prostora, a kad se do planirane 2013. zavrπi cijeli kompleks, u njemu Êe biti smjeπteni svi fakulteti, od Filozofskoga i UËiteljskoga, do Medicinskoga, Graevinskoga, Ekonomskoga i Pomorskoga, sveuËiliπni odjeli, sportske dvorane, studentski smjeπtaj sa 750 kreveta, objekt studentske prehrane kapaciteta 4500 obroka itd. Rijeka se tako potvruje kao vitalan grad otvoren mladima.

■

R

ijeka has always been, and is still today, a crossroads of new ideas and sensibility, a connection between the sea and land, as well as the past and future. In Zagreb in 1914 there were only three hotels, in Opatija there were seventeen, while in Rijeka you could count twenty hotels. In that same year there were seven cinemas built in Rijeka, four were built in Pula, and only three in Zagreb. The city had 22 consulates, there were 39 long-haul cargo lines, and 31 short and long-haul coastal sailing routes for passen94

CROATIA AIRLINES

gers. There were goods from overseas galore; the city was bustling with travellers and sailors; it provided homes to captains, and many of the world’s languages were spoken. People lived faster here, and so they also thought up new projects faster ∑ already in 1930 the first airport was built at Grobnik, and a year later flights to Zagreb, Split, Sarajevo and Belgrade were introduced.

Already in the 16th century the city experienced a trade boom and cultural progress due to the development of trading with iron, oil, wood, wool, cattle and leather. It was no surprise that the city was interesting to the Austrian emperor Carl VI, who in the 18th century proclaimed Rijeka a free royal harbour, or that the city was attractive to the Hungarians who thought it was an ideal exit to the Adriatic Sea. There were excellent conditions that led to Rijeka growing into one of the biggest Central European harbours and a powerful industrial centre in the 19th century; the city’s geographic location was ideal; the 60 metre deep Kvarner Bay was deep enough for the biggest ships; there were two important land traffic routes, one toward the Pannonian inland and the other toward the region east of the Alps.

The Baroque Palace AdamiÊ at Fiumara testifies to the time when trading took off. It was built by the great trader and owner ©imun AdamiÊ in the second half of the 18th century.

After his arrival in Rijeka he became so rich that superstitious commoners believed he was being helped by secret forces. Archaeological findings were accidentally discovered on his property in MartinπÊica, and in the minds of the people of Rijeka they were secret buried treasures. As a result, some people reported him to the authorities and he finished in jail. However, with the help of the Emperor Joseph II, he was rescued by his son, Andrija Ljudevit. In order to take revenge, the enraged older AdamiÊ put up fourteen stone posts on the sidewalk in front of his new elegant palace on which were busts of the people who gave false testimony against him.

Nearly a century later, the palace has been expanded and it houses a Croatian grammar school, a breeding ground for eminent Croatian intellectuals, scientists and writers, and the final resting place of the ashamed AdamiÊ witnesses in the park of the Maritime and History Museum.

AdamiÊ’s son, Andrija Ljudevit was proof that Rijeka was full of colourful characters. He was a banker, tradesman, industrialist and construction technician who designed and built his own theatre, founded a modern orchestra, brought theatre companies to the city, established trade clubs and advocated for the construction of a large hotel for business people and salesmen.

One of those people was the famous Austrian army officer, Count Laval Nugent. Born in Ireland, Nugent bought and renovated several castles in Croatia, but he was especially in love with the medieval Trsat castle, which he refurbished and in which he kept his collection of works of art, as well as erected a mausoleum for himself and his family.

Under the governance of the Habsburgs for a long period the city often changed rulers during its complicated history in the 19th century and a stormy first half of last century. In 1848 the city became part of Croatian Banovina, and then part of Hungary twenty years later.

As the largest Hungarian seaport, the city was the main rival to Trieste, which was under Austrian rule. During that period the city was a giant construction site. The Harter Paper Factory was built, the first gas works started operating, the oil refinery was set up, and the railroad tracks Rijeka - Karlovac were built.

There were also a number of representative buildings built in the city, especially along the waterfront, such the Adria Palace, Governor’s Palace and Casa Veneziana, owned by the manufacturer Robert Whitehead. The British mechanical engineer founded the torpedo factory because the captain of the AustroHungarian naval warship, Rijeka citizen Ivan Luppis, had invented the weapons which soon became the standard weapons of developed naval forces. This was the time when the citizens of Rijeka, in an aesthetic, spiritual and practical sense, acted modern. The newly built town theatre, today the Croatian National Theatre Ivan pl. Zajc, was decorated by the well known Gustav Klimt. In 1899 the city’s electric tram was put into service, and in 1900 Frano Supilo started Novi List (later RijeËki Novi List), the oldest daily newspaper in Croatia. The citizens of Rijeka are proud of their fellow-citizen Ivan pl. Zajc the author of the most popular Croatian opera, Nikola ©ubiÊ Zrinjski. In that environment the rebellious and adventurous poet, Janko PoliÊ Kamov, grew up.

Sometime in late January every year, the mayor of Rijeka hands over the key of the city to the master of Carnival ceremonies who turns Rijeka into the most exciting spot on the geographic map of Croatia until the Carnival himself is burned at the stake on Shrove Tuesday. During that time the city on the RjeËina River enters its fifth season, as the citizens like to call the days of Carnival. In less than three decades this has grown into one of the greatest manifestations of its kind in Europe.

Since the first parade in 1982, which was organized by the Tourist Board of the City of Rijeka in order to remember the old, forgotten and abandoned Carnival tradition, Carnival

CROATIA AIRLINES

95

has grown into a spectacle whose variety and imaginativeness is often compared with that of Venice and Rio de Janeiro. From children to grandmothers, during the fifth season of the year, everyone enjoys dancing, parties and contests. Carnival groups live for this all year and the hours-long float parade of cheerful masqueraders is the climax and the end of the Carnival season. Ten thousand participants descend on the streets and squares for this, including hundreds of traditional and urban carnival groups from Croatia and abroad, as well as a hundred thousand spectators.

At the beginning it was quite modest, but it grew into something that has changed the image of the administrative centre of PrimorjeGorski Kotar County, which was thought of as a tough industrial, harbour and transit city through which people and goods passed, only lingering here for a short time on their way to European and further world destinations.

Opatija and Lovran were traditionally in charge of tourism in this part of the Adriatic Sea, but now Rijeka has become a winter tourism attraction. In this way Croatia’s third largest city has shown its two faces; the one that is joyful and riotous and the other one that is serious and business-like, becoming of a harbour which one hundred years ago was ranked eighth in Europe in terms of total traffic, and after World War II was a ship building giant, had one of the oldest paper and torpedo factories, an oil refinery in Urinj, a chemical industry and an airport on the neighbouring island of Krk (250,000 passengers are expected in 2011), insurance companies and trading companies, and was one of the most important financial centres in the former state.

Quite used to changes in government, the people of Rijeka learned to be polyglots. At the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, they equally used Croatian, Italian, German and Hungarian languages, and after the end of World War I, American President Wilson recommended that Rijeka become the headquarters of the League of Nations, the precursor to the United Nations. Geneva was actually chosen, but for Rijeka that was the start of new political turbulences, so much that a person who was born in Rijeka in 1913 and lived until 1991 actually lived in six different countries: Austro-Hungarian, Free State of Rijeka, Kingdom of Italy, Third Reich (Germany), Socialist Federalist Republic of Yugoslavia, and finally, the Republic of Croatia without ever moving from Rijeka! Between the two wars, Rijeka was even split between two states because the mouth of the RjeËina River was the state border between the west coast that was under Italian rule, and the east, 96

CROATIA AIRLINES

Suπak, that was under the Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats and Slovenes.

Rijeka is appreciated as a city of industrial architecture, which today has new spiritual contents. The one-time industrial facilities in the area of Mlaka and around Industrial Street have been revived and occasionally serve as modern stages for theatre performances and concerts. Thus, as always before and still today, Rijeka is moving forward. The city is now connected with Zagreb and the Slovenian borders with the newest and most modern highways, traffic in the city centre has been reduced owing to the building of the new modern bypass, the Tower Centar Rijeka, one of the biggest shopping centres in this part of Europe, has been opened in PeÊine, the most famous hotels have been refurbished, and over the Dead Canal the Veterans Bridge has been completed, a prize winner of prestigious international awards for architecture and innovative technology. Two years ago the Kantrida Swimming Pool Complex was opened ∑ the first big sports centre in Rijeka in the last 30 years. The European Short Course Swimming Championships were held here. The harbour is being prepared for its modern role as the Door to Central Europe, as new harbour docks are being built. Behind the marketplace building, along the coast, parks will soon appear, as well as new entertainment and cultural contents.

Many people call Rijeka the city of rock’n’roll, and the new wave and punk movements have made more of a mark on Rijeka than on any other urban centre in Croatia. An alternative culture has become a kind of city folklore, which is especially interesting to young tourists. The first punk bands in the country, Paraf and Termiti, came from the city on the RjeËina River, and because of the proximity and excellent transportation connections with the west, new trends quickly take root here.

For many visitors, Rijeka is especially attractive because of the Trsat pilgrimage centre located high above the city. It is the oldest Marian pilgrimage site in Croatia and a mustsee destination for admirers of the Marian cult who have been coming here on pilgrimages for centuries. The pilgrims who come here today can see the monument dedicated to John Paul II in honour of his third pastoral visit to Croatia when he visited this pilgrimage site in June of 2003. It is located in front of the Shrine of Our Lady of Trsat. A legend says that the Holy House in which the Holy Family had lived appeared overnight on this site at the end of the 13th century. It was brought to Trsat from Nazareth by angels, and afterwards the angels took it to Loreto, near Ancona, where it still stands today...

On Trsat they are building a huge university campus, one of a kind in Croatia, which will be able to accept thousands of students. They say that Rijeka will never be the same once it is finished. In the first phase they constructed and renewed close to 100,000 m2 of space.

It is expected to be finished in 2013, and the entire complex will include all of the university schools, from Philosophy and Education, to Medicine, Construction, Economics and Maritime, the departments of the university, sports halls, student dorms with 750 beds, a student cafeteria with a capacity for 4,500 meals, etc. With this, Rijeka will confirm its status as a vibrant city that is open to young people.

■

CROATIA AIRLINES

97

■ NA©A ODREDI©TA Our DESTINATIONS

98

CROATIA AIRLINES

Piše/By Dubravka Belas Fotografije/Photos Davor Rostuhar

Graditi grad ondje gdje ga je nemoguÊe graditi, veÊ je ludost po sebi, ali graditi na takvu mjestu jedan od najotmjenijih i najsjajnijih gradova, ludost je genija, zapisao je o njoj pisac i putnik Alexander Herzen.

Upravo je tako nastala Venecija, usprkos svim dotad znanim pravilima. I postala Serenissima. Prejasna.

Preuzviπena. DrukËija od drugih.

To build a city where it is impossible to build a city is madness in itself, but to build one of the most elegant and grandest of cities there is the madness of genius. This is what writer and traveller Alexander Herzen wrote about Venice. And this is precisely how Venice came to be, despite and in defiance of all hitherto known rules. This is how it became Serenissima. The serene one. The most illustrious one.

A city like no other in the world.

CROATIA AIRLINES

99

100

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

101

L

egenda kaæe da su se u petome i πestom stoljeÊu nove ere Akvilejci, pred naletima Avarikovih Vizigota i Atilinih Huna, povlaËili u moËvarno podruËje s morem za leima. Naπavπi se na posljetku na rasteru stotinjak razasutih sprudova odakle se dalje moglo samo u more, sagradiπe na njihovu nestalnom pijesku svoja prva skloniπta.

A za razliku od utvrenih obalnih gradova susjedne, dalmatinske obale Jadrana, koji Êe, na prijeteÊem razmeu svjetova, biti opasani zidinama i prema moru i prema kopnu, MleËani Êe svoje zaπtitniËko more proglasiti svetim zidinama grada.

Prvi su naseljenici zemlju na kojoj su æivjeli πtitili kompleksnim sustavom kanala kako bi voda mogla slobodno otjecati i nasipima ojaËanim pleterima od vrbova pruÊa. Na naplavljenom tlu zasadili su vrtove i æivjeli od ribolova i skupljanja soli. Bilo je to, kako ga je d’Annunzio nazvao, praskozorje vremena u kojemu se raala buduÊa slava grada u pustoπi, bez zidova, bez vrata i bez grobova, sa snagom i temeljima koji stoje na moru.

Najstariji, pak, pisani trag samih poËetaka æivota u laguni ostavio nam je Kasiodor, ostrogotski diplomat: Prizore naselja u vaπem kraju naizmjence skrivaju i otkrivaju plima i oseka.

Vaπe kuÊe sliËe gnijezdima morskih ptica, Ëas se Ëini da leæe na tlu, Ëas da plutaju na vodi poput Ciklada. Razbacane po valovima, ukazuju se graevine koje nisu djelo prirode, nego ljudske umjeπnosti. UËvrstili ste tlo s pomoÊu isprepletene savijene trske i bez straha morskim valovima suprotstavljate te krhke bedeme... nastavljao je Kasiodor svoje divljenje. Barke privezane uz kolibe i kuÊe, prevaæne za æivot u laguni, usporeuje s domaÊim æivotinjama.

Ta je vezanost uz barku prorekla buduÊu pomorsku veliËinu Venecije Ëiji se sav æivot odvija na vodi i oko vode. PovjesniËar Charles Diehl tvrdio je da se joπ u proπlom stoljeÊu, a moæda je tako i danas, u nekim zakutcima lagune, ribarskim kuÊama oko Grada ili sojenicama Comacchija, mogu vidjeti iste slike - drvene kolibe, uski kanali na Ëijoj zelenoj tratini lelujavih alga barke sporo plove... PodsjeÊa Diehl na mrtve gradove koji su prethodili Veneciji, potopljeni u mulju lagune ili svedeni njezinim usponom tek na bijedna sela. Na jedva naseljenom otoËiÊu leæi Torcello, jedan takav umiruÊi grad, do 11. stoljeÊa veliko srediπte lagune, s palaËama i crkvama. Tonuo je otad polako u pijesak, napuπten, nezdrav, sumoran. No saËuvao je svjedoke svoje nekadaπnje veliËine ∑ crkvu sv. Foske i katedralu u bizantskom slogu, podignutu na temeljima crkve iz 7. stoljeÊa.

Najstarija je graevina u cijeloj laguni, a dijelovi prvobitne crkve ugraeni su u njezinu mramornu propovjedaonicu.

102

CROATIA AIRLINES

I dok je vaænost drugih naselja slabjela, glavne su se njihove patricijske obitelji okupljale u Veneciji koja ubrzo preuzima primat u laguni, ali i na Ëitavome istoËnom Sredozemlju, ponijevπi titulu Vrata Istoka. Prevozili su u daleke krajeve vino, sol, drvo za gradnju, krzno, laneno platno, vunu, a vraÊali se natovareni mirodijama ∑ paprom, cimetom, muπkatnim oraπcem, πeÊerom, sandalovinom, tamjanom, svilom, suknom iz Damaska, Êilimima, dragim kamenjem. ZakljuËivali su trgovaËke ugovore s bizantskim carevima na istoku i njemaËkima na zapadu, imali povlastice za slobodnu trgovinu i monopol na prijevoz sve robe. Polako se, ali sigurno, raalo basnoslovno bogatstvo.

Uz gospodarsku i politiËku, trebalo je osigurati i duhovnu prevlast. Oduvijek se u laguni πtovao sveti Marko evanelist. Navodno je bio prvi akvilejski biskup, a jednoga mu je dana, u posjetu otoku Rialtu, doπapnuo aneo: Mir tebi, moj evaneliste Marko, ovdje Êe ti kosti poËivati. PAX TIBI MARCE EVANGELISTA MEUS, poznate su rijeËi koje Êe otad biti upisivane na grbove i zastave Republike, klesane u kamene knjige svih krilatih lavova, simbola Venecije.

Obaviπe stoga dva mletaËka trgovca 828. godine tzv. poboænu pljaËku, prvu od svih buduÊih opravdanih i Ëasnih kraa kakvima Êe se bogati Mleci i ubuduÊe uljepπavati. Od aleksandrijskih nevjernika oteπe sveto tijelo evanelista.

KatunariÊ je napisao: Bruno i Rustico nisu uzeli obiËne svete moÊi, pero s krila anela Gabrijela, ni obiËne ljestve kakve je sanjao Jakov, veÊ tijelo evanelista Marka koji na sprudove donosi lavlji mir, sklonost letenju i Ëitanju knjiga, mudrost koja ima posluæiti kao nadahnuÊe da se od obiËna skloniπta ptica sagradi veliËanstven grad... I, dakako, duæd je, na Rialtu, naredio odmah sagraditi crkvu sv. Marka da u nju skloni tijelo sveca. A oko crkve rasla je i ljepπala se Venecija.

Voljeli bismo znati πto bi Ëestiti Kasiodor mislio da je mogao vidjeti danaπnju Veneciju, palaËe na mjestu ribarskih koliba. Godine 1902. viπe puta nadograivan, previsok i preteæak, uruπio se zvonik na Trgu sv. Marka. Hrastovi i borovi trupci na kojima se temeljio, pronaeni su u izvrsnom stanju, poπto su u tlu stajali tisuÊu godina. Venecijanski su se graditelji koristili balvanima zaπiljenih vrhova i zabijali ih viπe od sedam metara duboko, sve do sloja komprimirane gline na dnu lagune. Stisnuti jedan uz drugoga u muljevitu tlu, bez slobodna kisika, nisu bili izloæeni truljenju. Na njih su polagali temelje od nepropusnog istarskog mramora, a zatim gradili ruæiËastim opekama, oblikujuÊi danaπnje palaËe izvanvremenske ljepote.

Gustu mreæu stotinu pedeset kanala povezuje Ëetiri stotine mostova, a nasip s cestom i æeljeznicom povezuje je s terrafermom. NajveÊi

od kanala, Canal Grande, Canalazzo kako ga zovu Venecijanci, kruæi oko stare gradske jezgre, slijedeÊi nekadaπnji rijeËni tok. Prije viπe od pet stotina godina francuski ga je veleposlanik s pravom prozvao najljepπom ulicom na svijetu.

Duæ njegovih obala niæu se biseri ponajbolje mletaËke arhitekture, palaËe nekad velikih aristokratskih obitelji koje su davale i po nekoliko duædeva, Ëlanova Senata, ili Signorije, ili bijahu tek domovi sveÊenika i bogatih trgovaca. Uostalom, vjersko i svjetovno oduvijek se znalo uskladiti pa su neki od najbogatijih trgovaca Republike bili upravo klerici.

Neπto viπe od pola sata plovidbe vaporettom ili gondolom pruæit Êe vam upravo onakav uvid u Veneciju kakav su njezini graditelji zamiπljali ∑ onaj s vode. PalaËe su graene tako da im je glavni ulaz bio okrenut kanalu i ta je fasadna strana bila uvijek raskoπno ureena, sa stubama koje se spuπtaju do vode i æivo obojenim motkama za pristajanje, s obiljeæjima obitelji na vrhu, kako bi naglasile njihovo privatno znaËenje. Plovidba kanalom tako je svojevrsna izloæba svih graditeljskih stilova Venecije, ali i njihovih mjeπavina: od bizantskog stila palaËe Loredan i Fondaco dei Turchi, preko kiÊene, cvjetne gotike, Ëipkasto izvedene u kamenu kao na palaËama Foscari ili Ca’d’Oro. Tu je i siÊuπna palaËa Contarini Fasan, poznata kao kuÊa nesretne Otelove Dezdemone. Niπta manje dojmljive nisu umjerenije renesansne palaËe poput palaËe Grimani ili one barokne, s obilato ukraπenim proËeljima gotovo u strahu od praznog prostora ∑ naËiËkane su kerubinima, maskama i statuama, kamenim girlandama, rozetama i kartuπama, poput Ca’ Pesaro.

Prastaro srce Venecije svejednako æivo pulsira izmeu tri najvaænije toËke srediπnjega Trga sv. Marka: istoimene bazilike s pet bizantskih kupola koje πtite veliËanstvene mozaike, gotiËke Duædeve palaËe, neopisivo raskoπnoga sjediπta mletaËke vlade i duædeve rezidencije, te zvonika sv. Marka, s Ëijeg vrha puca prekrasan pogled na lagunu, odakle je Galileo demonstrirao svoj teleskop. Pet zvona u tornju imalo je svako svoju funkciju - marangona je oznaËavala poËetak i kraj radnoga dana, malefico najavljivao smaknuÊe, nona je zvonila u podne, mezza terza sazivala senatore u Duædevu palaËu, a trottiera najavljivala sjednicu Velikoga vijeÊa. U oltaru bazilike, nazvane Chiesa d’Oro, crkva od zlata, Ëuvaju se ostaci sv.

Marka. Uz pozlaÊeni fasadni mozaik koji prikazuje krijumËarenje njegova tijela iz Aleksandrije te nevjerojatno raskoπnu oltarnu palu od zlata, za nas je osobito zanimljiva skupina tetrarha isklesana u porfiru, prikaz Ëetiri suvladara, salonitanskog Dioklecijana te Maksimijana, Valerija i Konstancija, zorno istiËuÊi njihovu meuovisnost.

CROATIA AIRLINES

103

Duædeva palaËa jedan je od simbola veliËine i snage Republike. Malo gdje se bogatstvo tako obilato iskazivalo u vanjskim obiljeæjima. Sinjorija je pozivala umjetnike Ëitavoga talijanskoga poluotoka da svojim djelima urese i uveliËaju slavu Republike. Tako se Duædeva palaËa, ali i mnoge druge i javne i privatne zgrade u Veneciji, diËe potpisima najslavnijih umjetnika ∑ Tiziana, Michelangela, Sansovina, Veronesea, Carpaccia, braÊe Bellini, Giorgionea, Veneziana, Lombarda, oca i sina Buono, Tiepola, Guardija, nenadmaπnog Tintoretta.

U svoj toj raskoπi i moÊi, ipak su i obiËni graani, cittadini, mogli utjecati na svakodnevni æivot Republike, ubacivanjem anonimnih tuæbi i prijava kroz lavlja usta - bocca di leone, najljepπi poπtanski sanduËiÊ na svijetu. Te se prijave nisu olako uzimale, razmatrale bi se i provjeravale ozbiljno, a kad bi se ustanovile istinitima, joπ praktiËnijom bi se pokazala izravna veza palaËe sa zatvorom Piombi, preko Mosta uzdisaja, s kojega se buduÊim zatvorenicima otvarao posljednji pogled prema Ëarobnoj laguni.

Predahnete li od tolike raskoπi i ljepote u cafféu Florian, uæivat Êete u najskupljoj kavi na svijetu.

Ne zaostaju po cijeni ni male zlatarnice pod trijemovima trga prepuna ljudi i golubova, kamo zacijelo svrati svaki od nevjerojatnih 14,000.000 posjetitelja koji se svake godine sliju u Veneciju. A onda se, odmoreni, zaputite u istraæivanje onoga mirnijeg labirinta malih ulica i mostova, skromnijih, bliæih, ali jednako ljupkih, u kojima se odvija stvarni æivot Venecije. Tu caruju obiËni prizori ∑ zaËin svakog putovanja, poput lijepih, ravnoduπnih maËaka πto predu na popodnevnom suncu, ili klepetave zbirke malih, veselo obojenih vjetrenjaËa kojima je vlasnik ukrasio straænji zid svoje kuÊe ili pjenuπavoga ljubiËastog plaπta kojim drugu kuÊu krasi rascvjetala glicinija. Moæete posjetiti obliænje otoËiÊe ∑ Lido, veliko kupaliπte s grand hotelima, Murano s glasovitim majstorima-puhaËima stakla, od kojih je po jednome, osobito uspjeπnome staklarskom umjetniku pristiglom iz Splita, Ballarinu, primljenim Ëak u muransko plemstvo, nazvan srediπnji muranski most.

Teπko je odluËiti πto je ovdje ljepπe, nestvarno krhki stakleni predmeti ili æivopisni millefiori.

Ili Êete se radije na Buranu diviti delikatnim, pauËinastim Ëipkama. A opet, svjesni ste da joπ mnogo toga valja vidjeti ∑ barem neke od veliËanstvenih crkava, barem neke od bogatih galerija, barem neke od slavnih Ëetvrti ∑ od prvoga æidovskoga Ghetta na svijetu, preko Dorsodura do Castella i tko zna joπ Ëega πto ne smijete propustiti.

FranjevaËka bazilika S. Maria Gloriosa dei Frari jedna je od najveÊih gotiËkih crkava na tlu Italije, vaæno mjesto venecijanskog slikarstva, 104

CROATIA AIRLINES

ali i grobnica duædeva i drugih znamenitih zasluænika Venecije. Moæda najljepπa barokna crkva na svijetu, Santa Maria della Salute, zavjetna je crkva sagraena poslije okonËanja poπasti kuge koja je u 17. stoljeÊu poharala Republiku. I danas je mjesto hodoËaπÊa i stanovnika Venecije i njezinih posjetitelja, ali i jedna od nezaobilaznih vizura voænje niz Canalazzo.

Tu je Arsenal, pomorski centar nekadaπnjeg carstva, Accademia sa znaËajnom zbirkom venecijanskog slikarstva, muzej Guggenheim s internacionalnom zbirkom modernoga slikarstva, Teatro Fenice, gnijezdo commedie dell’arte.

Jedno su od jedinstvenih obiljeæja Stare Dame gondole, ruËno pravljene od devet vrsta drveta, uske i izduæene kako bi se lako mimoilazile u uskim kanalima, ravna dna da ne bi zapinjale po dnu na niskim vodama. NaËin veslanja gondolijera, stojeÊi, naziva se i drugdje voga alla veneta. Uz caorline, teretne barke kojima se s okolnih otoËiÊa odavna doprema voÊe i povrÊe, i vaporette, sredstva javnog prijevoza, glavna su venecijanska prometala. Treba reÊi da su povijesna venecijanska brodogradiliπta u sklopu Arsenala, u kojima je nekad radilo i 16.000 osoba, bila kadra isporuËivati svakoga dana po jedan ratni brod.

Pomorska nadmoÊ Kraljice Jadrana temeljila se na brzim i okretnim triremama, galijama s jedrima. Danas na te slavne dane podsjeÊa Regata Storica, povijesna regata, rujanska utrka brodova s poËasnim defileom na kojoj sudjeluju i Hrvati s batanama i falkuπama. Poznata je i festa vjenËavanja mora, Sposalizio del Mar, ustanovljena u spomen na uspjeπni vojni pohod iz 1000. godine na istoËnu, hrvatsku obalu Jadrana, nakon kojega su svi vaæniji otoËni i obalni gradovi Dalmacije priznali zaπtitu MleËana. »ak je i slobodarski Dubrovnik neko vrijeme bio u podreenom poloæaju.

Duæd, sa svoga ceremonijalnog broda, ploveÊe palaËe od zlata i grimiza, svake godine na Spasovo u more u znak zahvalnosti polaæe blagoslovljeni zlatni prsten rijeËima: Ti sposiamo, o mare, in segno di vero e perpetuo dominio.

Dalmacija je bila uvjet bez kojeg se ne moæe MletaËke Republike ∑ razvedenoπÊu svoje obale, sa svojih tisuÊu otoka i mnogo luka u kojima se opskrbljivala i sklanjala imperijalna flota, isto onako kako se davno i brod s tijelom sv. Marka pred nevremenom sklonio u Istri, u Umagu.

Regrutirala je Republika u oporome i skromnome hrvatskome stanovniπtvu vojnike, izvrsne ratnike, na koje podsjeÊa mnogo tragova u Veneciji. Riva dei Schiavoni, kako nazivahu Hrvate, najveÊe je mletaËko πetaliπte, Ëiju vrevu poznajemo s Canalettovih slika, veliko pristaniπte uz koje su brodove sidrili hrvatski

pomorci. Na rivi je postavljena i spomen-ploËa u Ëast vjernih skjavunskih soldata, odluËnih da brane Veneciju od nadiruÊe Napoleonove armade. Riva je rubna crta Castella, Ëetvrti u koju se naseljavaju Hrvati, istiËuÊi se brojem meu ostalim useljenicima. I u Ëetvrti Dorsoduro postoji DubrovaËka ulica, Calle dei Ragusi, nekadaπnja kolonija dubrovaËkih trgovaca, pomoraca i intelektualaca. Jedan od najpoznatijih komediograf je Marin DræiÊ, Ëije je posljednje poËivaliπte u dominikanskoj bazilici SS Giovanni e Paolo.

StoljeÊa pak mletaËke dominacije na hrvatskoj obali vidljiva su posvuda i danas - na mnogim je kamenim gradskim portama i utvrdama uklesan krilati lav, prepoznatljiv simbol Serenissime.

Francuski povjesniËar navodi da je Venecija vladala hrvatskim krajevima na najsebiËniji naËin, ne uËinivπi niπta za napredak siromaπne i zapuπtene zemlje, za blagostanje stanovniπtva, trgovinu ili ceste. I, da, potvruje Diehl staru legendu o sjeËi πuma za opskrbu balvanima i za gradnju brodova. Obavljala je Venecija nadzor i nad Motovunskom πumom, odakle je crpila hrast luænjak kao vrhunsku sirovinu za brodogradnju, a drvo s Hvara upotrebljavalo se za izradu baËvi u kojima se Ëuvalo vino i solila riba.

Jedan je od davnih prijepora i Marco Polo, putujuÊi diplomat, o kojemu hrvatska legenda tvrdi da se rodio na otoku KorËuli, gdje joπ rado pokazuju njegovu rodnu kuÊu, a Talijani tvrde da se rodio i odrastao u venecijanskoj Ëetvrti Cannaregio, odakle je i krenuo na svoj prvi veliki put do Mongolije, na dvor moÊnoga Kublaj-kana. Ali, korËulansko podrijetlo smatra moguÊim i dr. Frances Wood, znanstvenica Kineskog odjela British Library. Napadi senjskih uskoka i neretljanskih gusara na carsku flotu te protumletaËke pobune u Zadru, ovjekovjeËeni na Tintorettovu monumentalnom platnu izloæenome u Duædevoj palaËi, uz ostalo, pridonijeli su ambivalentnim odnosima nasuprotnih jadranskih obala.

A onda se potkraj 18. stoljeÊa dogodio pad, ono πto prije ili poslije doæive sva velika carstva. Sve se nekako poklopilo: Republiku je zauzeo Napoleon, Portugalci otkrili morski put do Indije i Kine, Turci vratili Carigrad. Venecija je prestala biti vaæna. Napoleon je prepuπta Austrijancima i upravo je njihova autoritarna vladavina zapalila prve idejne iskre Risorgimenta, pokreta za osloboenje i ujedinjenje Italije. Povezana je s tom opÊom nesigurnoπÊu dekadentna raskoπ kojom su MleËani odluËili slavno propasti, troπeÊi nemilice naslijeena bogatstva. Kockarska groznica zahvatila je Republiku, toliko da su stolovi bili postavljeni i u trijemovima Piazze.

Venecija na izdisaju bijaπe leprπavija i æivlja no

ikada, raskoπne zabave i karnevali, raskalaπene krabulje, maioniËari i opsjenari, akrobati i marionete tvorili su je najzabavnijim gradom na svijetu. PosjeÊivale su je okrunjene glave, Josip II., ruski car Petar I., πvedski kralj Gustav II., papa Pio VI., prinËevi i vojskovoe, skladatelji i pisci. Karneval je trajao od BoæiÊa do Pepelnice, krinke su nosili muπkarci i æene, plemiÊi i puËani, bogati i siromaπni, posvuda su plesali Harlekini, Pulcinelle i Kugini doktori dugaËkih kljunova. Krabulje su slobodno klizile ulicama, snaæeÊi priËin Ëarobnoga grada. Odanost domovini i ozbiljnost dræavnika ustupila je mjesto frivolnosti, kao da se grad namjerno opijao da ne vidi katastrofu koja se pribliæavala. No kao i obiËno, kad Bog zatvori neka vrata, otvori prozor. I bi turizam. Joπ u poËetku 18. stoljeÊa otvoren je glasoviti Caffé Florian, buduÊe okupljaliπte plemiÊa i europske elite ∑ gosti su Goldoni, Goethe, Lord Byron, Dickens, Proust, Rousseau. I Casanova je, bjeæeÊi iz zatoËeniπtva, prije odlaska u Pariz tu, na popriπtu svojih mnogih osvajanja, hladnokrvno popio kavu. Navodno je ovdje zaËeta i ideja o venecijanskom glazbenom Biennaleu.

Blizu je i Harry’s Bar, gdje moæete uæivati u Ciprianijevu belliniju ∑ koktelu od prosecca ∑ talijanskog pjenuπca i gustog soka bijele breskve. Kaæu da je u ovome baru, u kojemu je bio stalan gost i imao svoj stol u kutu, dareæljivi Hemingway ispisao viπe Ëekova no stranica svojih romana.

Na naπoj Rivi dei Schiavuni dominira hotel Danieli, legendarno okupljaliπte europske umjetniËke elite. Knjiga gostiju diËi se imenima poput Balzaca, Cocteaua, Prousta, Dickensa, Ruskina, Debussyja, Wagnera.. U sobi 10 odvijala se notorno burna ljubavna priËa Alfreda de Musseta i George Sand. Dok se on oporavljao od orgija, ona je, navodno, pobjegla s njegovim venecijanskim lijeËnikom...

Venecija i danas izgleda baπ onako kakva je bila na svom vrhuncu. Moæda jedino noÊu, kad se zatvore lokali, a trgovci i konobari uhvate posljednji vaporetto, ulice utihnu, pomalo sablasne budu divotne palaËe u kojima viπe nema svjetla.

Pokupovaπe ih bogati stranci koji ondje borave kratko, moæda po nekoliko dana na godinu.

Stara Dama umorna je i spava. Ona ista u koju je Thomas Mann, ÊuteÊi neraskidivu vezu erosa i thanatosa, smjestio smrt Ëovjeka zaljubljenoga u ljepotu. Sam ju je nazvao najnevjerojatnijim od svih gradova na svijetu. I Lord Byron divio se bijelom labudu meu gradovima.

Ali katkad bi bestidno pokazivala svoje drugo, jednako stvarno lice. Arndt bi govorio o odvratnom pogledu i mirisu...Theodore Fontane smatrao ju je Ëarobnom i poetskom, ali i prljavom - poput lijepe djevojke neoprana vrata.

Njoj je potrebna mjeseËina pri kojoj se sve vidi

nekako napola, zapisao je. Putopisac Tvrtko KulenoviÊ zabiljeæio je: Venecija nije pauËinasti veo koji se danju sijajuÊi opruæa na Suncu, a noÊu blago obavija tijela usnulih ljubavnika. Ona je zapuπtena drolja u starom izazovnom ruhu, koju su zbog grijeha objesili tako da joj se kosa vuËe po kanalima, a ona joπ neÊe da proguta iskeπeni osmijeh zlatnih zuba. Fran Lebowitz toËno je osjetila: Ako puno Ëitate, niπta nije tako sjajno kao πto zamiπljate. Venecija jest.

Venecija je bolja.

Venecija je bajka, Ëarolija izrasla na drvenim reπetkama ponad pjeπËanih sprudova, zlatni teret koji neumitno tone. Kad se danas s drugim legendarnim gradom, Ëudovitim Dubrovnikom, nekadaπnjim rivalom na drugom kraju jadranske dijagonale, povezuje izravnim letovima, a ne samo zajedniËkim morem, shvatite da je i ovo samo joπ jedna priËa o prolaznosti, poput nestalne brazde koju, ploveÊi, Ëovjek zalud ore povrπinom mora. Poput pjene iznad vode...

Letovi Dubrovnik − Venecija v.v.

Prvi put u povijesti tvrtke, u ovogodiπnjemu ljetnom redu letenja, dva najromantiËnija grada na jadranskoj obali - Dubrovnik i Venecija - bit Êe povezana redovitim povratnim letovima Croatia Airlinesa. Naime, od 19. svibnja do 23. listopada uspostavit Êe se povratni letovi nacionalnog avioprijevoznika izmeu Dubrovnika i Venecije, dvaput na tjedan − Ëetvrtkom i nedjeljom. Iz Dubrovnika zrakoplov Êe polijetati u 12 sati i 30 minuta (let OU 398), a Veneciju Êe slijetati u 14 sati i 5 minuta. Iz Venecije u Dubrovnik zrakoplov Êe polijetati u 14 sati i 40 minuta (let OU 399), a slijetanje u Dubrovniku bit Êe u 16 sati i 5 minuta. Dva prelijepa jadranska bisera, Dubrovnik i Veneciju, povezivat Êe zrakoplovi Dash8-Q400 sa 76 sjedala. n

L

egend has it that in the 5th and 6th centuries A.D., during Alaric the Visigoth and Attila the Hun’s onslaughts, the populace of Aquileia retreated towards the safety of a marshy area bordered by the sea.

Having found themselves amidst a grid of some hundred or so sandbanks strewn across the sea, with nothing else but water in front of them, they built their first shelters on the volatile sandy ground. Unlike fortified Dalmatian cities which had to survive at the menacing crossroads of different worlds on the coast across the Adriatic Sea, and thus relied on thick walls to afford them protection from the sea as well as from the mainland, Venetians decided that the sea would be their protector, the walls of their city.

The first settlers secured the land on which they lived with a complex system of canals to allow for the free flow of water, and em-

bankments reinforced with osier grids. They planted their gardens on flooded land and made their living from fishing and harvesting salt. According to d’Annunzio, that was the dawn of the time when the future glory of a city in the desert was being born; there were no walls, no doors and no graves, but there was power and foundations that lay in the sea.

We owe the oldest written trace of life in the lagoon to Cassiodorus, an Ostrogoth diplomat who noted: The vistas of your settlement are in turn hidden and revealed by high and low tides. Your houses resemble seabirds’ nests; at times, they seem to sit firmly on the ground; at other times, they appear to float on water, like the Cyclades. Strewn upon the waves, structures appear; they are not the work of nature, but rather of human dexterity and diligence. You have protected the soil with woven cane and you present those fragile walls to the mercy of the waves... This is how Cassiodorus waxed admiringly. He compared the little boats tied to the shacks and houses with livestock, because they were so important for life in the lagoon. The early attachment to the vessels heralded the future maritime power of Venice whose entire life evolved on water and around it. Historian Charles Diehl claimed that even as late as last century, and this may also be true of today, one could witness a similar sight: in some corners of the lagoon, in the fishermen’s houses around the city or in the houses on stilts in Comacchi, there you could see log cabins, narrow canals, with little boats slowly floating on the water’s surface covered with green algae. Diehl reminds us about the precedents of Venice, cities now dead and submerged completely in the mud of the lagoon, or those that have been reduced to humble villages with the surge of Venice.

One such little dying town is Torcello, situated on a sparsely inhabited island. This was once a large hub of the lagoon, with palaces and churches to match its role. Since the 11th century, the city has been sinking slowly into the sand, abandoned, unhealthy, and gloomy.

Yet, the witnesses of its former glory still stand ∑ the Church of St. Fosca and a cathedral in Byzantine style erected on the foundation of a former 7th century church. The cathedral is the oldest building in the entire lagoon, and parts of the original church were built into its marble pulpit.

As the importance of other settlements in the lagoon slowly dwindled, the main patrician families from those settlements flocked to Venice, which in no time assumed supremacy not only over the lagoon but also over the entire Eastern Mediterranean, and became known as the Gate of the East. Venetians transported CROATIA AIRLINES

105

wine, salt, building timber, furs, linen and wool to distant parts and returned with their ships full of spices ∑ black pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, sugar, sandalwood, incense, silk, Damascus cloth, oriental rugs and precious stones. They made business deals with Byzantine emperors in the east and German rulers in the west; they enjoyed free trade privileges and a monopoly on the transport of all commodities. Slowly but surely, an immense wealth was being born.

Economic and political supremacy could not survive without spiritual supremacy. St. Mark the Evangelist, the alleged first bishop of Aquileia, had always been revered in the lagoon.

Legend has it that one day, during his journey through the island of Rialto, an angel whispered to him: Peace unto thee Mark my evangelist; here your body will rest. PAX TIBI MARCE EVANGELISTA MEUS are the famous words which were therefore inscribed on the flags and coats of arms of the Republic, and carved into the stone books held by winged lions, the familiar emblem of Venice. Thus, in 828, two Venetian merchants embarked on a so-called holy robbery, the first in a series of all future justified and honourable robberies which were subsequently undertaken by rich Venetians on a mission to help decorate their city. They 106

CROATIA AIRLINES

kidnapped the sacred body of the evangelist from infidels in Alexandria. To quote KatunariÊ: Bruno and Rustico did not take just any holy relics, not a feather from angel Gabriel’s wing, or a common ladder from Jacob’s dreams. They took the body of evangelist Mark, who brought lion’s peace to the sandy shoals, a propensity for flying and reading books, a wisdom which would serve as an inspiration for transforming a measly bird shelter into a magnificent city.

Of course, the Dodge ordered that a church consecrated to St. Mark be immediately built at Rialto and that the body of the saint should be sheltered there. Venice continued to grow and thrive around the church.

We are curious to know what the honourable Cassiodorus might make of modern-day Venice, of its palaces in lieu of the fishermen’s cottages. The bell tower in the Square of St. Mark collapsed in 1902. Having been extended one too many times, it had become too tall and too heavy to bear its own weight. The oak and pine pylons on which it had rested were found to be in excellent condition, even after having been buried in the ground for a thousand years.

Venetian builders used piles with pointed tips and hammered them down, more than seven meters deep into the ground until the tips

reached the layer of compressed clay. Pressed close together in the muddy ground, without any free oxygen, they were not exposed to rotting. Those pylons supported the foundations that were constructed from impermeable Istrian marble, upon which the builders erected walls of pink bricks and produced the present-day palaces of ephemeral beauty.

The dense grid of one hundred and fifty canals is connected with four hundred bridges. The road and railroad along the bank connect the city with terraferma. The largest of the canals, Canal Grande, or Canalazzo as Venetians like to call it, encircles the old city nucleus, following the course of a one-time river. Over five hundred years ago, a French ambassador described it as the most beautiful street in the world. Quite deservingly. Its banks are adorned with pearls of the most exquisite Venetian architecture, palaces which used to house grand aristocratic families each of whom spawned a Dodge or five, numerous Senate or Signoria members, or were the homes of priests and rich merchants. Indeed, the secular and the sacral could always find ways to coexist in perfect harmony, which is why some of the richest Venetian merchants were also clerics. A half an hour sail on a vaporetto or in a gondola is the

perfect way to admire the view of Venice from exactly the same perspective as its builders intended - a view from the water. The palaces’ main canal-side entrances and facades were inevitably very grand and lavishly decorated, with staircases leading all the way down to the water and the mooring pools painted in vivid colours, with family emblems on their tops highlighting their owner’s importance. A sail down the canal reveals an abundance of building styles, either in their pure form or as mixtures: from the Byzantine style of Palaces Loredan and Fondaco dei Turchi, to the ornate, flourishing gothic of Palaces Foscari or Ca’d’Oro and their stonework of the finest lace-like quality.

There is also the bijoux Palace Contarini Fasan, known as the house of Othello’s unfortunate Desdemona. None the less impressive are the more sober renaissance palaces such as Palace Grimani or baroque ones, like Ca’Pesaro whose builders were anxious not to leave a stone uncarved ∑ their sumptuous facades are simply bursting with cherubs, mascherons and sculptures, stone garlands, rosettes and cartouches.

The ancient heart of Venice throbs incessantly among the three most important points in the central square of St. Mark: the namesake CROATIA AIRLINES

107

basilica whose five Byzantine cupolas protect the most magnificent mosaics; the gothic Dodge’s palace, the unspeakably lavish seat of the Venetian government and the Dodge’s private residence; and, last, but not least, the bell tower of St. Mark whose top commands a wonderful view of the lagoon and from which Galileo once demonstrated how his telescope worked. Each of the five bells in the tower had a different function: the marangona used to mark the beginning and the end of a work day; the malefico announced executions; the nona could be heard at noon; the mezza terza called the senators for meetings at the Dodge’s palace; and the trottiera announced the Great Council’s sessions. The altar of the basilica, known as Chiesa d’Oro, the church of gold, is where the remains of St. Mark are kept. Besides the gilded facade mosaic that depicts the smuggling of his body from Alexandria and the amazingly opulent golden altar known as Pala d’oro, of particular interest to us is the porphyry statue of the Tetrarchy of four co-emperors, Diocletian from Salona, Maximilian, Valerius and Constantine, and quite vividly represents their interdependence.

The imposing Dodge’s Palace is one of the symbols of the Republic’s size and might.

Rarely ever was wealth displayed so gladly and conspicuously as here. The nobility invited artists from across the Italian peninsula to come to Venice and magnify the glory of the Republic with their works. Hence the Dodge’s Palace, as do indeed many other public and private buildings in Venice, boasts the signature works of the greatest artists ∑ Titian, Michelangelo, Sansovino, Veronese, Carpaccio, the Bellini brothers, Giorgione, Venezian, Lombardo, 108

CROATIA AIRLINES

father and son Buono, Tiepolo, Guardi, and the one and only Tintoretto. Amidst all that lavishness and power, common folks, the so-called cittadini, could exert their influence on the daily life of the Republic by pushing anonymous applications and complaints through the lion’s mouth∑bocca di leone, the most beautiful mailbox in the world. Those complaints were not taken lightly at all; they were seriously considered and checked. If proven to be true, it was quite practical that there was a direct passage that connected the Dodge’s Palace and the Piombi prison, the Ponte dei Sospiri, or the Bridge of Sighs. Crossing the bridge, future prisoners could cast one last glance over the marvellous lagoon. Should you wish to take a break from so much beauty and abundance, head for café Florian which serves the most expensive cup of coffee in the world. More than a good match in the exorbitant price department is the host of little jewellers’ shops under the porticos around the square. There is never a lack of people or pigeons there as every one of the astonishing 14 million visitors who descend upon Venice every year also descend upon the square. Well rested and refreshed, start exploring the more peaceful labyrinth of little streets and squares, somewhat more modest and approachable but equally charming, and they offer a glimpse into the real life of Venice. This is where scenes of ordinary life reign supreme and add the necessary spice to every journey.

Their protagonists are beautiful indifferent cats that purr and bask in the afternoon sun; or the rattling collection of minute windmills painted in vivid colours which have been hung on the back walls of houses by the owner who wanted to decorate his abode; or an effervescent mauve

cloak of blooming wisteria flowers adorning another house. You may also be interested in visiting one of the nearby islands ∑ Lido, a bathing place with grand hotels, or Murano, the island of master glass blowers. One of those glass blowers, Ballarino, had arrived all the way from Split; he climbed the ranks of Murano’s aristocracy and finally gave his name to the main bridge on Murano. It is really hard to choose the most beautiful object here among all the surreally fragile glass objects and colourful millefiori. Perhaps your pick will be the island of Burano where you can admire the delicate cobweb-like lace. And yet, you know that there is still so much to see ∑ at least some of the magnificent churches; at least one or two of the rich galleries; at least some of the famous quarters ∑ including the first Jewish ghetto in the world, as well as Dorsoduro and Castello, and who knows what else there is that you must not miss. The Franciscan Basilica of St. Maria Gloriosa dei Frari is one of the largest gothic churches on Italian soil, an important gallery of Venetian painting and also the burial place of dodges and other notable dignitaries of Venice.

Perhaps the most beautiful baroque church in the world, Santa Maria della Salute was built as a votive church to mark the end of the devastating pest epidemics that had ravaged the Republic in the 17th century. It is still a place for pilgrimages for the citizens of Venice and its visitors, and is one of the remarkable sights on a sail down the Canalazzo. There is also the Arsenal, the maritime centre of the former empire, as well as the Accademia building with its significant collection of Venetian paintings.

The Guggenheim Museum houses an international collection of modern art and Teatro

Fenice is the birthplace of commedia dell’arte.

Featuring very prominently among the quintessential symbols of the Old Lady are also gondolas, crafted by hand from nine different types of wood. Their slender, elongated bodies allow them to negotiate narrow canals and squeeze pass other gondolas, while their flat bottoms are purposely designed to keep them from hitting the bottom of the canal at low tide.

The distinctive style of rowing that requires the oarsman to be on his feet is recognized everywhere, not only in Venice, as Venetian rowing, or Voga alla veneta. Besides the caorline, cargo vessels that transport fruit and vegetables from the neighbouring islands, and the vaporetto, boats used for public transport, gondolas are the main means of transportation to get from one place to another in Venice. It should be noted that the historical shipyards in the Venetian Arsenal, which employed up to 16,000 people at times, were capable of delivering a war ship a day. The maritime supremacy of the Queen of the Adriatic relied on fast and easily manageable ships known as Trirema, galleons with sails. Modern-day homage to those glorious days is the Regata Storica, the Historical Regatta, a boat race that takes place every September. It includes a ceremonious boat procession with Croatian batana and falkuπa boats as proud participants. A well known event is the so-called Marriage of the Sea, Sposalizio del Mar, established in memory of a successful military campaign launched in the year 1000 against the Croatian part of the Adriatic Coast on the eastern seashores. The end of the campaign saw all of the more important coastal and island cities of Dalmatia accepting Venice as their protector. Even freedom-loving Dubrovnik was under enemy control for a while.

Every year, on Ascension Day, the Dodge sails out on his ceremonial ship, a floating palace of gold crimson; he lays a consecrated golden ring on the bottom of the sea as a token of his gratitude and utters the following words: Ti sposiamo, o mare, in segno di vero e perpetuo dominio. Dalmatia was a sine qua non for the Venetian empire ∑ owing to the indentation of its coastline, its thousand islands and a myriad of harbours from which the imperial fleet got its supplies and where its vessels sought refuge, just like so many years before when caught in a storm, the ship carrying the body of St. Mark had found shelter in Istria, in Umag. The Republic recruited its soldiers amongst the uncouth and poor Croatian populace who proved to be excellent warriors and eventually left many of their traces in Venice. Riva dei Schiavoni, as the Croats were known, is the largest Venetian promenade, and the hustle and bustle of the dock is a familiar sight in CROATIA AIRLINES

109

Canaletto’s paintings. At one-time this large dock was where Croatian sailors called to port. It features a plaque to commemorate the loyal Schiavoni solders, determined to defend Venice from Napoleon’s invading armada. The promenade is also the borderline with Castello, a quarter settled by Croats in numbers higher than those of any other immigrant group. One of the streets in the Dorsoduro quarter bears the name of Dubrovnik, Calle dei Ragusi, to commemorate the former colony of Dubrovnik merchants, seafarers and intellectuals. One of the most prominent was comedy writer Marin DræiÊ whose last resting place is in the Dominican Basilica of SS Giovanni e Paolo.

The centuries of Venetian supremacy have left a huge mark on the Croatian coast ∑ to this very day, many city gates and fortresses depict carved winged lions ∑ the recognizable symbol of the Serenissima. The French historian says that Venice ruled over Croatian regions in the most egotistical way. It did not do anything to promote progress in the poor and neglected land; it did not do anything for the welfare of the population, for trade or road transport. And yes, Diehl does confirm the old legend about the felling of Croatian woods from which pylons for construction and timber for shipbuilding were supplied. Venice controlled the Motovun forest wherein it exploited red oak as the supreme raw material for its shipbuilding industry, whereas timber from the island of Hvar was used to build barrels for storing wine and salting fish. One of the longest bones of contention between Venice and Croatia is the travelling diplomat Marco Polo. Croatian legend has it that he hails from the island of KorËula, where they will gladly show you the house where he was born. Italians, on the other hand, claim that he was born and raised in the Venetian quarter of Cannaregio, wherefrom he set out on his first big journey all the way to Mongolia, to pay a visit to the court of mighty Kublai Khan. Dr. Frances Wood, a scientist affiliated with the Chinese Section of the British Library thinks that his Croatian origin is quite plausible. The attacks of the Senj uskoks and anti-Venetian uprisings in Zadar, recorded in Tintoretto’s monumental oil on canvass on display in the Dodge’s Palace, were among the many reasons which contributed to the ambivalent relations of the two coasts on the two opposite sides of the Adriatic.

And then, in the late 18th century, there was a decline. Venice experienced what all great empires experience sooner or later. All things had come to a head at about the same time: the Republic fell under Napoleon’s rule, the Portuguese discovered a maritime route to India and China, and the Turks regained 110

CROATIA AIRLINES

Istanbul. Venice was no longer important.

Napoleon ceded it to the Austrians and it was precisely their authoritarian rule that ignited the first spark of the Risorgimento, the movement for the liberation and unification of Italy.

The overall feeling of insecurity seems to have inspired decadent abandon with which Venetians decided to destroy themselves in a blaze of glory, wantonly spending their inherited wealth. A gambling fever struck the Republic with vengeance: gambling tables were set up even in the porticoes along the Piazza. Venice was dying, but it was more of a flaunt and more animated than ever; lavish balls and carnivals, lecherous masks, magicians and illusionists, acrobats and marionettes, turned Venice into the most entertaining city in the world. It became the playground of crowned heads, including Joseph II, Russian emperor Peter I, Swedish king Gustav II, Pope Pio VI, princes and military leaders, composers and writers.

Carnival festivities lasted from Christmas till Ash Wednesday; masks were worn by men and women, aristocrats and plebeians; Harlequins, Pulcinellas and long-beaked plague doctors danced everywhere. Masked people roamed the streets freely, enhancing the image of the magical city. Loyalty to the homeland and the seriousness of statesmen was replaced by frivolity. The city seemed to drink itself into oblivion, to avoid facing the imminent disaster. Yet, just like it usually happens, when god closes a door, he opens a window. And there was tourism. The famous café Florian opened its door in the early 18th century and became the favourite watering hall of aristocracy and European elite.

Its patrons were Goldoni, Goethe, Lord Byron, Dickens, Proust, and Rousseau. The cold blooded Casanova himself paid his last visit to the very stage of his numerous conquests and had a cup of coffee, although he was running away to Paris to avoid incarceration. Ostensibly, this is where the idea of the Venetian musical Biennale was born. Nearby is also Harry’s Bar where you can enjoy Cipriani’s Bellini ∑ a cocktail made with prosecco ∑ Italian sparkling wine and thick white peach juice. Hemingway was one of the regulars who had his own table in a corner. A generous patron as he was, he allegedly wrote more cheques than pages of his novels in this bar. Our Riva dei Schiavuni is dominated by Hotel Danieli, a legendary gathering spot for the European art elite. The book of guests boasts the names of Balzac, Cocteau, Proust, Dickens, Ruskin, Debussy and Wagner.

Room 10 was the scene of a notoriously stormy love story whose protagonists were Alfred de Musset and George Sand. While he was recuperating from orgies, she, famously, ran away with his Venetian physician…

Venice still looks the same as it did in its heyday. Perhaps only at night, when the bars close their doors and shop assistants and waiters catch the last vaporetto home, the streets become quiet and the palaces look like ghost buildings without any lights in them. They have all been bought by rich foreigners who stay in them only briefly, a few days a year at most. The Old Lady is tired and asleep. The same one whom Thomas Mann, sensing the unbreakable bond between Eros and Thanatos, chose as the stage for the death of a man enamoured with beauty. He himself called it the most amazing of all cities in the world. Lord Byron also admired the white swan of cities. Yet Venice sometimes shamelessly shows its other face, equally real.

Arndt spoke about its repugnant look and stench… Theodore Fontane saw it as magical and poetical but also dirty ∑ like a beautiful girl with an unwashed neck. Moonlight becomes her as everything is half seen, he wrote. Travel writer Tvrtko KulenoviÊ noted: Venice is not a cobweb that shimmers like a veil basking in the sun during the day and softly envelopes the lovers’ bodies at night. She is a squalid whore, wearing old provocative attire, who was hung for her sins. Her hair drags down the canals, and she still refuses to swallow her snarling - gold toothed smile. Fran Lebowitz was right when she said: If you read a lot, nothing is as great as you’ve imagined.

Venice is - Venice is better.

Venice is a fairytale, a magic that grew from wooden grids above sandy shoals, a sinking golden load in spades. Until recently, Venice and Dubrovnik, its former rival at the other end of the Adriatic diagonal, were connected only by the sea that they have in common. And now there are direct flights. Suddenly you realize that this is yet another story about transience, about something that disappears: just like the wake of a boat; like froth on water.

Flight Dubrovnik ∑ Venice, and vice versa For the first time in the company’s history, this year’s summer flight schedule will connect two of the most romantic cities on the Adriatic coast ∑ Dubrovnik and Venice − with regular return flights on Croatia Airlines. Namely, from 19 May to 23 October, return flights will be set up by the national airline carrier between Dubrovnik and Venice two days a week − Thursdays and Sundays. The flight will leave from Dubrovnik at 12:30 (flight OU 398) and land in Venice at 14:05. The return flight will leave Venice at 14:40 (flight OU 398) and land in Dubrovnik at 16:05. The two beautiful pearls of the Adriatic, Dubrovnik and Venice, will be linked by a Dash8-Q400 airplane with seating for 76 passengers. n

CROATIA AIRLINES

111

112

CROATIA AIRLINES

■ MERIDIJANI MERIDIANS

Piše/By Corey Gregory Fotografije/Photos Jasmin Krpan

Idi na zapad, mladiÊu. Idi na zapad. Te slavne rijeËi ameriËkoga novinskog urednika upuÊene mladom znancu u potrazi za sreÊom i bogatstvom u Americi 19. stoljeÊa savjet su koji vrijedi i danas, u 21. stoljeÊu, i to za svakog putnika koji putuje

ZA SVAKOGA PONEŠTO SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE

u Sjedinjene AmeriËke Dræave. Kad stignete na zapadni rub sjevernoameriËkog kontinenta, stigli ste do Kalifornije, jednoga od najzanimljivijih i najugodnijih mjesta u zemlji koja nudi i te kako mnogo prekrasnih odrediπta.

Go West, young man. Go West., as a U.S. newspaper editor famously advised a young acquaintance looking to make his fortune in nineteenth century America, is good advice for a twenty-first century traveler to the United States as well. That is because when you come to the western edge of the continental United States you have reached California, one of the most interesting and enjoyable places to visit in a country of many wonderful destinations.

K

alifornija je tako bogata zemljopisnim raznolikostima, prirodnim ljepotama, simbolima turistiËke djelatnosti, svjetski poznatim zabavnim parkovima i vodeÊim srediπtima te gospodarske grane da svake godine privuËe viπe od Ëetrnaest milijuna stranih posjetitelja i svaki od njih moæe Kaliforniju doæivjeti na potpuno jedinstven naËin, onako kako najbolje odgovara njegovu individualnom stilu i ukusu.

Nesumnjivo je globalno najprepoznatljivija od svih 50 dræava koje tvore Sjedinjene AmeriËke Dræave. Nije to bez razloga. Kalifornija je oduvijek bila Meka za pustolove i doseljenike svih nacionalnosti. StarosjedilaËka ameriËka plemena koja su prva naselila ovo podruËje stigla su privuËena obiljem njezinih zlatnih brda i zlatnog sunca. Za njima su zatim sa sjevera stigli ruski lovci i trgovci krznima te s juga πpanjolski misionari i istraæivaËi. Ali nakon 1848. godine, kad je ustinu otkriveno zlato na Sutter’s Millu, u regiju su pohrlili ljudi sa svih strana svijeta stvarajuÊi tako multietniËke zajednice od mnoštva individualaca koji su CROATIA AIRLINES

113

pristizali izdaleka i odasvud, svi u potrazi za bogatstvom i sreÊom.

VeÊ dvije godine poslije Kalifornija je bila trideset i prva dræava Sjedinjenih AmeriËkih Dræava, s pravom prozvana Zlatna dræava i s reputacijom graniËne destinacije pune obeÊanja, koja i danas privlaËi doseljenike sa svih strana svijeta. Iako je u proteklih 150 godina bilo razdoblja i sluËajeva etniËkih nesuglasica i diskriminacije, treba priznati da stanovniπtvo Kalifornije do danas svjedoËi najveÊu razinu kako raznolikosti, tako i integriranosti u nekoj saveznoj dræavi. DinamiËnost Kalifornije proizlazi upravo iz multietniËkih i poduzetniËkih temelja, koje su poloæili doseljenici i starosjedioci u 19. stoljeÊu, ispiruÊi vodu iz rijeka i kopajuÊi u Zlatnoj dræavi rudu istog imena.

Od osnutka do danas, Kalifornija je uvijek bila zemlja superlativa. U demografskom smislu, to je najnapuËenija od svih ameriËkih dræava (37, 200.000 stanovnika); tu se nalazi najviπe od pedeset najveÊih gradova u Sjedinjenim Dræavama (8) i ukupno najveÊe manjinsko stanovniπtvo u zemlji, u koje se ubraja i najviπe Amerikanaca azijskoga i juænoameriËkog podrijetla, kao i najviπe domorodaËkog stanovniπtva. Zemljopisno, od 48 donjih dræava (kako se obiËno grupiraju dræave SAD-a), Kalifornija je povrπinom druga po veliËini (nakon Teksasa), a jedino Florida ima dulju obalu. Tu je i najviπi vrh (Mt. Whitney, 4421 m), a samo se 200 milja dalje nalazi i najniæa toËka na kopnu (Death Valley, Dolina smrti, 86 m ispod razine mora), ujedno toËka s najviπim temperaturama u Sjevernoj Americi. Ekoloπki, ima najraznolikiju klimu (od mediteranske do subarktiËke) i teren u Americi, te se takoer moæe pohvaliti najstarijim, najviπim i najveÊim stojeÊim stablima na svijetu (drvo Pinus Longaeva poznato kao Metuzalem, Sequoia Sempervirens i divovska sekvoja).

S gospodarskog stajaliπta gledano, ovdje prebiva viπe milijardera nego igdje drugdje u Americi, a gospodarstvo dræave Kalifornije (najsnaænije u SAD-u) pripadalo bi meu deset najrazvijenijih na svijetu da je Kalifornija samostalna dræava. Ovo su samo neki od mnogih superlativa u vezi s Kalifornijom.

Osobno vjerujem da najveÊa ljepota Kalifornije proizlazi iz njezine zemljopisne raznolikosti te dobro razvijenih sustava parkova i podruËja za rekreaciju, πto stanovniπtvu i posjetiteljima omoguÊava uæivanje u mnogo aktivnosti i znamenitosti koje ova dræava nudi.

Obala se u duljini od 1365 km proteæe od juga prema sjeveru, od prostranih pjeπËanih plaæa juæne Kalifornije s najviπe sunËanih dana i s fascinantnom kulturom æivota na plaæi, preko srediπnjeg dijela obalnog pojasa, kroz koji se planine pruæaju s istoka na zapad izdiæuÊi 114

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

115

se gotovo iz samog mora, s vinogradima i vinarstvom svjetske kvalitete, sve do maglom obavijene obale na sjeveru, sa πumama sekvoje, golemima i tihima poput katedrala.

MoguÊnosti za raznovrsne aktivnosti nebrojene su, ali evo πto ne biste smjeli propustiti na putu od juga obalom prema sjeveru: jedrenje na dasci na plaæi Black’s u San Diegu; posjet galerijama u Laguna Beachu; jahanje na vrhu divovskog vala na mjestu poznatome pod imenom the Wedge na poluotoku Balboa, igranje odbojke s profesionalcima na plaæi Huntington, voænju na vrtuljku na Santa Monica Pieru, promatranje zvijezda u Malibuu, ronjenje i planinarenje u nacionalnom parku Channel Islands, uæivanje u obilasku vinarija u Santa Barbari, promatranje igre vidri u zaljevu Morro, rundu golfa na slavnom terenu u Pebble Beachu s prekrasnim pogledom na ocean u Monterreyu, prelazak mosta Golden Gate ili pogled na nj s vrha svjetionika Point Bonita, izlet brodom za promatranje kitova, koji isplovljava iz Mendocina, i istraæivanje nacionalnog parka Redwood.

Za ljubitelje prirode jednako su lijepe i ugodne kalifornijske planine. U dræavi je nekoliko planinskih lanaca, meu kojima su Coastal Range (Obalni lanac), a proteæe se uz obalu i tvori prekrasnu kulisu na mjestu Big Sur, sjeverni lanci Klamath i Cascades s vulkanskim nacionalnim parkom Lassen, te juæni poluotoËni lanac Peninsular Range sa svjetski glasovitim opservatorijem Palomar.

Najpoznatije su i najposjeÊenije planine u lancu Sierra Nevada. Ondje je i omiljeno mjesto mnogih u Sjedinjenim Dræavama, nacionalni park Yosemite s tisuÊama kilometara pjeπaËkih staza kroz divljinu i s raskoπnim prizorom Half Dome na mjeseËini, te najviπim slapovima u zemlji. Ondje je i El Capitán, impozantna granitna stijena visoka 910 metara, omiljena meu penjaËima iz cijelog svijeta.

Park Yosemite tako je veleban da susjedni nacionalni parkovi Sequoia i Kings Canyon nerijetko prou nezapaæeni unatoË tomu πto nude izvrsne moguÊnosti za izlete i uæivanje u prirodnim ljepotama. Upravo je namjera da se sva ta blaga zaπtite kako bi u njima mogli uæivati i Amerikanci i strani posjetitelji navela biologa Johna Muira i druge da svoje æivote posvete zagovaranju ideje o uspostavi sustava nacionalnih parkova Sjedinjenih AmeriËkih Dræava.

U razmiπljanjima o morskim obalama i slapovima smetnulo se s uma to da je Kalifornija u osnovi dræava sa suπnom klimom. Jedino sjeverozapadni dio zemlje i Sierra Nevada dobivaju dovoljno padalina. »ak i najproduktivnija poljoprivredna dobra u srediπnjoj dolini ovise o paæljivom upravljanju vodom i 116

CROATIA AIRLINES

navodnjavanju. Zapravo, cijeli jugoistok dræave prekriva pustinja Mojave. No, iako uglavnom neplodna i stjenovita, pustinja nudi zanimljive moguÊnosti za rekreaciju te fascinantan uvid u prilagodljivost æivih biÊa i biljaka na mjestima kao sto su nacionalni parkovi Dolina smrti i Joshua Tree.

UnatoË prirodnim ljepotama, milijunima hektara divljine i nepreglednosti Pacifika koji se pruæa tisuÊama kilometara od njezine obale, Kalifornija je vjerojatno najpoznatija po gradovima koji su nastali iz malih misija sagraenih prije viπe od dva stoljeÊa u malim oazama okruæenima neprijateljskim okoliπem. To πto su ta naselja postala goleme i globalno znaËajne metropole kao πto su Los Angeles, San Francisco i San Diego svjedoËi o prilagodljivosti, poduzetniËkom duhu i æelji za uspjehom prvih doseljenika u Kaliforniju te doprinosu svih onih koji su stigli nakon njih. Svi ti gradovi i dalje privlaËe putnike, doseljenike ili tek radoznale promatraËe iz cijelog svijeta, a doæivljaj Kalifornije teπko moæe biti potpun bez posjeta barem jednomu od njih.

Los Angeles je suncem okupan grad s viπe od Ëetiri milijuna stanovnika (sedamnaest milijuna u πirem gradskom prostoru) na povrπini od gotovo 1290 Ëetvornih kilometara, smjeπten u juænoj Kaliforniji. VeÊ se i njegova veliËina doima nevjerojatnom mnogim posjetiteljima kad prvi put posjete grad, a takav dojam ostavljaju i milijuni automobila koji svaki dan zakrËe njegove πiroke, a ipak pretrpane autoceste. Svejedno je najbolje razgledavati LA, kako grad nazivaju diljem svijeta, iz automobila, jer su njegove turistiËke znamenitosti razasute po cijeloj njegovoj okolici.

Od Disneylanda i stadiona kluba Dodger do Venice Beach i Malibua, Los Angeles je igraliπte pod otvorenim nebom za sve poklonike sunca i zabave. No grad je takoer i vaæno gospodarsko srediπte. Pod dobro poznatim znakom Hollywooda, ali i po onome πto se vidi svuda po gradu, Los Angeles svjetska je prijestolnica zabave, mjesto na kojemu se proizvede i stvori veÊi dio filmskoga, televizijskoga i glazbenog programa, u kojemu uæiva cijeli svijet. LA je i sjediπte vodeÊih tvrtki proizvoaËa aviona kao i drugih proizvodnih djelatnosti, a tu su smjeπteni i vaæni centri obrazovanja i kulture, koji crpe snagu iz raznolikosti jednoga od najjaËih multikulturnih srediπta Sjedinjenih AmeriËkih Dræava.

Za razliku od suncem okupanoga Los Angelesa, San Francisco poznat je po magli koja nerijetko obavija idiliËnu okolicu njegovog zaljeva. Zaljubljenici u San Francisco vole reÊi da je LA moæda glavni grad zabave, ali San Francisco glavni je grad kulture dræave

Kalifornije. Sa svojim elegantnim restoranima, dinamiËnom umjetniËkom zajednicom i svjetski poznatim vinogradima po okolnim brdima i dolinama, San Francisco odiπe ozraËjem otmjenosti i ukusa koji Êe oduπeviti svakoga tko odluËi posjetiti njegove turistiËke znamenitosti. No San Francisco mnogo je viπe od mosta Golden Gate, pristaniπta i luke Fisherman’s Wharf, doline Napa i Alcatraza; on je epicentar najveÊe svjetske koncentracije poduzeÊa i inovatora u podruËju novih tehnologija smjeπtenih u Silikonskoj dolini, te sjediπte nekih od najboljih obrazovnih i istraæivaËkih sveuËiliπta svijetu: SveuËiliπta Stanford u Palo Altu te sveuËiliπta Berkeley, perjanice kalifornijskog sveuËiliπta UCLA. Mnogi gradovi Kalifornije nude jedinstvene atrakcije zbog kojih valja zastati na putu kroz ovu dræavu. Tu je San Diego sa pjeπËanim plaæama, zooloπkim vrtom svjetskog ugleda i tematskim parkovima SeaWorld i LegoLand, koje vole i mlai i stariji posjetitelji.

Palm Spring, pustinjsko stjeciπte bogatih, jednako je privlaËno odrediπte i za ljubitelje sunca i golfa. Santa Barbara ili AmeriËka rivijera nudi mediteransku klimu i stoga je omiljeno ljetovaliπte i kupaliπno odrediπte.

Jezero Tahoe svoje je prekrasne planinske vode i pograniËni poloæaj uz dræavu Nevadu pretvorilo u odrediπte za lovce i ljubitelje sportova na vodi. I, napokon, poπteni i vrijedni gradovi Fresno i Sacramento, glavni grad dræave, u srediπnjoj dolini nude zanimljiv pogled na povijest naseljavanja Kalifornije i vaænu ulogu koju su u njezinom razvoju imali zlato i poljoprivreda.

Kalifornija predstavlja mnogo od onoga πto je najbolje u Americi ∑ etniËku raznolikost, æivotnu filozofiju sve je moguÊe, optimizam osvajanja granice te neograniËene moguÊnosti. Putovanje raznolikim krajobrazima Kalifornije, posjet njezinim dobro ureenim i saËuvanim nacionalnim i dræavnim parkovima, uæivanje u kupnji, zabavi i kulturnoj ponudi velikih i malih gradova, budi u svakome jednak osjeÊaj ∑ to je zemlja neograniËenih moguÊnosti, koja ima za svakoga poneπto.

Na sljedeÊim web stranicama naÊi Êete informacije o mnogim znamenitostima i mjestima koja se spominju u ovom Ëlanku te o mnogima drugima koja nisu spomenuta zbog nedostatka prostora: www.visitKalifornia.com www.discoverlosangeles.com www.onlyinsanfrancisco.com www.sandiego.org www.nps.gov (informacije o nacionalnim parkovima) www.ca.gov (mjesto za sve sluæbene informacije i statistiËke podatke o Kaliforniji). n

CROATIA AIRLINES

117

118

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

119

C

alifornia is so rich in geographic diversity, natural wonders, tourism icons, world-renowned entertainment parks and industry-leading business hubs that it attracts over fourteen million international visitors each year and every one of them can have a unique California experience that matches their own individual styles and tastes.

California is undoubtedly the most globally recognizable of the fifty states that make up the United States of America. And for good reason. It has always been a Mecca for adventurers and immigrants of all nationalities.

The Native American tribes that first settled the region came for the great bounty of its golden hills and its golden sun. They were eventually followed from the north by Russian hunters and fur traders and from the south by Spanish missionaries and explorers. But, after the discovery of actual gold at Sutter’s Mill in 1848, people from all over the world rushed to the region, creating thriving multiethnic communities from and amidst the massing individualists that came from far and wide to seek their own fortunes. Within two years, California was the 31st state of the United States of America with the apt nickname of The Golden State and a reputation for frontier opportunity that, even today, attracts people from around the globe. Without glossing over the fact that in the intervening century and a half there have been periods and instances of ethnic discord and discrimination, it is fair to say that California still has the most diverse and integrated statewide population in America and that its dynamism derives from the multiethnic and entrepreneurial foundation those mid-nineteenth century settlers and natives built as they panned and dug for the Golden State’s namesake ore.

From its founding through the present day, California has been a land of superlatives.

Demographically, it is the most populous U.S. state (37.2 million people), has the greatest number of the largest fifty cities in the United States (8) and the largest overall minority population in the country, including the largest Asian-American, the largest HispanicAmerican and the largest Native American populations. Geographically, of the lower 48 states (as the contiguous mainland U.S. states are often grouped), it is the second largest by area (after Texas) with the second longest coastline (after Florida). It has the highest elevation point (Mt. Whitney ∑ 14,505 feet/4421 m) and, just 200 miles away, the lowest elevation point (Death Valley ∑ 282 ft/86 m below sea level), which is also the hottest point in North America. Ecologically, 120

CROATIA AIRLINES

it has the greatest diversity of climate (from Mediterranean to subarctic) and terrain in America and boasts the oldest, the tallest and the largest living trees in the world (a Bristlecone Pine known as Methuselah, the Coastal Redwood and the Giant Sequoia respectively).

And, economically, more billionaires live there than anywhere else in America and the state’s economy (the nation’s largest) would rank in the top ten in the world if California were a country. And that’s just some of a long list of superlatives associated with California.

From a personal perspective the greatest attraction of California is the geographic diversity of the state and the extensive recreation and park systems that exist to allow visitors and residents to take advantage of the vast range of activities and sights available in the state.

The 850 mile/1365km coastline stretches northward from the wide sandy beaches of southern California with their predominantly sunny days and fascinating beach cultures, past the central coast with its east/west running mountains rising nearly from the water’s edge and nurturing a viticulture industry of world class quality, and all the way to the fog-enshrouded northern coast, home to the cathedral-like immensity and silence of the redwood forests. The activity opportunities are boundless, but a sampling of coastal must-dos from south to north would include: surfing at Black’s Beach in San Diego, visiting the art galleries of Laguna Beach, body surfing the Wedge on Balboa Peninsula, playing beach volleyball with the pros at Huntington Beach, riding the carousel on Santa Monica Pier, star-gazing in Malibu, snorkeling and hiking at the Channel Islands National Park, enjoying a winery tour in Santa Barbara, watching the sea otters play in Morro Bay, playing a round of golf at the famed Pebble Beach course overlooking the ocean at Monterrey, crossing the Golden Gate Bridge or sighting it from the Point Bonita lighthouse, riding whale-watching boats from Mendocino and exploring the Redwood National Park.

Equally beautiful and enjoyable for outdoor enthusiasts are the mountains of California.

There are several ranges in the state, including the Coastal Range (which hug the coast and form the imposing backdrop at Big Sur) as well as the northern ranges of Klamath and Cascades, home to the Lassen Volcanic National Park, and the southern Peninsular Range where the world famous Palomar Observatory is located. The best known and most visited mountains are the Sierra Nevada range, home to my favorite place in the United

States, Yosemite National Park with its miles of wilderness hiking trails, the splendor of Half Dome in the moonlight, the tallest waterfalls in the country and El Capitán, the imposing 3000 ft/910 m granite face that is a favorite of the world’s rock climbers. So magnificent is Yosemite, that the neighboring Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks are often overlooked, but each offers outstanding outdoor vacation opportunities and a keener appreciation of the natural beauty that led naturalist John Muir and others to dedicate their lives to advocating for the creation of the National Park System in the United States to protect these treasures so that they could be shared by all Americans and with visitors from other nations.

Lost among the thoughts of seashores and waterfalls is the fact that California is essentially an arid state. Only the northwestern part of the state and the Sierra Nevadas receive significant rainfall. Even the highly productive produce farms of the Central Valley depend on careful water management and irrigation.

In fact, the entirety of the southeastern part of the state is covered by the Mojave Desert.

Still, although predominantly barren and rocky, the desert offers interesting recreational opportunities and fascinating insight into the adaptability of living creatures and plants in places like Death Valley and Joshua Tree National Parks.

Despite its natural beauty, its millions of acres of wilderness and the vastness of the Pacific Ocean that stretches thousands of miles beyond its shores, California is probably best known for the cities that have grown from the small missions built over two centuries ago in small oasis’s surrounded by inhospitable environments. That those villages have become huge and globally significant metropolises like Los Angeles, San Francisco and San Diego is a testament to the adaptability, entrepreneurial spirit and drive to achieve of those early Californians and the contributions of the many that came after them. These cities continue to beckon to travelers, immigrants and merely curious observers the world over and the California experience is seldom complete without visiting one of them.

Los Angeles is a sprawling sun-drenched city of over four million people (17 million in the metropolitan area) that covers almost 500 square miles (1290 km2) in southern California. Its sheer size is incredible to many first time visitors, as are the millions of cars that daily clog the expansive yet still overwhelmed highway system. But LA, as it is known worldwide, is best seen by car as its tourist icons are scattered throughout its environs. From

CROATIA AIRLINES

121

Disneyland and Dodger Stadium to Venice Beach and Malibu, Los Angeles is an outdoor playground for worshippers of sun and fun.

Yet, it is also an important economic center.

Under the iconic Hollywood sign and throughout the city is the entertainment capital of the world, producing and creating much of the movie, television and music content enjoyed throughout the world. LA is also home to leading aerospace and industrial companies as well as important centers of learning and culture that profit from the diversity of one of the most multicultural cities in the United States.

Unlike sunny Los Angeles, San Francisco is well-known for the fog that frequently enshrouds its idyllic environs surrounding the San Francisco Bay. The lovers of San 122

CROATIA AIRLINES

Francisco like to say that LA might be the entertainment capital but San Francisco is the cultural capital of California. With its many fine restaurants, its vibrant arts community and the world class vineyards in the surrounding hills and valleys, San Francisco exudes an air of refinement and taste that will entrance any visitor to its own tourist icons. But San Francisco is far more than the Golden Gate Bridge, Fisherman’s Wharf, Napa Valley and Alcatraz, it is also the epicenter of the world’s greatest concentration of technological firms and innovators in Silicon Valley and home to some of the finest educational/research universities in the world: Stanford in Palo Alto and the University of California’s flagship institution in Berkeley.

California has many cities with unique attractions that make them well worth a stop on any tour of the state. San Diego, with its sandy beaches, world-class zoo and SeaWorld and LegoLand theme parks is a favorite of young and old. Palm Springs, the desert playground of the rich and famous, is also a great destination for all sun seekers and golfers. Santa Barbara, or the American Riviera, and its Mediterranean climate are a favored spa and resort destination. Lake Tahoe, which has turned its beautiful mountain waters and border position with Nevada into a gaming and water sports destination.

And finally, earnest and hard-working Fresno and Sacramento (the state’s capital) in the Central Valley offer an interesting view into the history of California’s settlement and the important role that gold and agriculture had in that development.

Having lived in California for a number of years, I know that the state represents much of what is best about America ∑ its ethnic diversity, its can-do philosophy, its frontier optimism and its limitless opportunities. Travelling around California’s varied landscapes, visiting the well-developed and well-preserved national and state parks and enjoying the shopping, entertainment and cultural offerings in its cities, big and small gives one the same feeling ∑ limitless opportunities and something for everyone!

Check these websites for more information on many of the attractions/places mentioned here and on the many, many more that there was not enough space to mention: www.visitcalifornia.com www.discoverlosangeles.com www.onlyinsanfrancisco.com www.sandiego.org www.nps.gov (for National Park information) www.ca.gov (for all things official and statistical regarding California). n

AZZEDINE ALAÏA, YVES SAINT LAURENT, GIVENCHY, BALMAIN, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, STELLA MCCARTNEY, C�LINE, CHLO�, BURBERRY PRORSUM, RICK OWENS, MIU MIU, MARNI, JIL SANDER, VIONNET, ALEXANDER WANG, ANTONIO BERARDI, ACNE JEANS, FALIERO SARTI, MAISON MICHEL, TOM BINNS, ERICKSON BEAMON, NATALIA BRILLI, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN, NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD, GIANVITO ROSSI, BURAK UYAN, CAMILLA SKOVGAARD, TOYWATCH, NOIS, RED LINE, STEIDL, TASCHEN, FLAMMARION, SKIRA Maria Zagreb, Masarykova 8, 01-4811011 Maria Dubrovnik, Sv. Dominika bb, 020-321330 Outlet Dubrovnik, Cvijete Zuzorić 3, 020-323495 www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr

Piše/By Evelina TurkoviÊ Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ 124

CROATIA AIRLINES

BA©TINA HERITAGE ■

CROATIA AIRLINES

125

126

CROATIA AIRLINES

UmjetniËka galerija Dubrovnik osnovana je kao zbirka nacionalne umjetnosti 1945. godne, a danas ima oko 2500 djela koja datiraju od kraja 19. stoljeÊa. U programskoj koncepciji Galerije piπe: Sve interese u izloæbenom programu paæljivo se usklauje kako bi se stvorila interakcija izmeu proπlosti i sadaπnjosti, te lokalnih, nacionalnih i internacionalnih umjetniËkih zbivanja.

CROATIA AIRLINES

127

H

Dubrovnik Art Gallery was established as a collection of national art in 1945. Currently, it boasts a collection of about 2500 works that date back to the late 19th century. The gallery’s programme manifesto reads: All interests pertaining to the exhibition programme are carefully considered in order to create interactions between the past and present, as well as between local, national and international developments in art.

128

CROATIA AIRLINES

odajuÊi Ulicom Frana Supila uzduæ mora od vrata dubrovaËkoga staroga grada na PloËama, uz popularno kupaliπte Banje i dalje putem prema mirnijem sv. Jakovu, prolaznik Êe imati dojam da se naπao u gledaliπtu nekoga prirodnog teatra.

Pogled je tu πirok, nebo veliko, otok Lokrum na obzoru i stalne prirodne mijene nesumljivo Êe zaokupiti svu paænju. I vrlo se lako moæe dogoditi da ne zapazi jednostavan kameni zid s tamnim drvenim portalom pokraj kojega Êe proÊi. Zapravo, ta se kamena stijena, iako monumentalne Ëiste geometrijske forme suprotne prirodnim oblicima, na tome mjestu doima kao prirodno nastala pojava. No, ako su vrata portala otvorena, pogled prolaznika zacijelo Êe se uvuÊi u prostrani atrij. I onda, kad mu pogled klizne u vis, otvorit Êe se sav unutraπnji svijet zaËudne graevine: visoki kubus proËiπÊena volumena okruæen je na nekoliko razina trijemovima, prostranim terasama, stubiπtima, vrtovima... Vanjskom svijetu pokazuje se decentna i odmjerena slika, a veliËina i raskoπ nekadaπnje vile Banac moæe se vidjeti tek u njezinoj unutraπnjosti.

Arhitekti Harold BiliniÊ i Lavoslav Horvat, gradeÊi od 1935. do 1939. reprezentativnu ljetnu vilu za dubrovaËkog brodovlasnika Boæu Banca, imali su veÊ dovoljno iskustva koje su mogli primijeniti na tako zahtjevnom zadatku. Stariji arhitekt Harold BiliniÊ (1894.∑1984.) poznat je bio kao majstor u radu kamenom, dugogodiπnji suradnik kipara Ivana MeπtroviÊa, a mlai arhitekt Lavoslav Horvat (1901.∑1989.) diplomirao je na ©koli za arhitekturu Kraljevske umjetniËke akademije kod profesora Drage Iblera 1935., nakon devet godina studija i kao jedan od samo 18 diplomiranih arhitekata od 1926. do 1943. godine.

Horvat je bio Ëlan umjetniËke grupe Zemlja (djelovala je od 1929. do policijske zabrane 1935. godine), koja je zagovarala borbu za socijalnu pravdu preko umjetnosti, lijevo ideoloπki usmjereni teæili su formiranju specifiËnoga nacionalnoga likovnog izraza na spoju lokalnoga i suvremenoga. U arhitekturi se grupa Zemlja kretala u sklopu modernistiËkog jezika internacionalnog stila i Ëistih i logiËnih formi koje su poπtivale funkciju i konstrukciju gradnje. No, isto tako, arhitekti BiliniÊ i Horvat bili su suradnici kipara Ivana MeπtroviÊa na svim njegovim graditeljskim pothvatima, a njihov zadatak u toj suradnji bila je arhitektonska razrada projekta prema MeπtroviÊevim poËetnim idejnim rjeπenjima.

MeπtroviÊeve graevine (Mauzolej u Otavicama, palaËa na Mejama u Splitu, UmjetniËki paviljon u Zagrebu), s viπe ili manje secesijskih obiljeæja i klasicistiËkih tragova, simetriËnih centralno oblikovanih planova, s monumen-

talnim kolonadama i stubiπtima, ËistoÊom svojih oblika ipak najavljuju modernistiËki duh toga vremena. Moæemo samo nagaati πto je Ëiji doprinos u tome autorskom timu, no vila Banac u Dubrovniku, koju BiliniÊ i Horvat samostalno projektiraju, govori da je modernistiËko funkcionalistiËko shvaÊanje arhitekture moæda ipak bliæe dvojici arhitekata.

Vila se u prizemlju tlocrtno razvija oko golemog atrija sa stubiπtem koje vodi na isto tako raskoπne prostore u gornjim etaæama. VeÊ je tu jasno kako su Ëisti oblici i sami njihovi proporcijski odnosi glavna oblikovna sredstva.

Sve uz pomoÊ svjetla koje se vjeπto uvodi u prostore i po mekanoj rasprπenosti, na primjer, po bijelim spiralama svodova stubiπta, usporedivo sa svjetlosnom finoÊom kiparskih oblika jednog Arpa ili Brancusija. No, svjetlo je i mjerilo prema kojem se organizirao æivot unutar kuÊe: na gornjim je katovima, ondje gdje viπe ne prijeti prevelika blizina ceste, a osobito na razini centralnog salona, izrazita usmjerenost prema van. ProËelje je tu potpuno rastvoreno velikom triforom πto vodi na jednu od terasa s pogledom na otok Lokrum.

Odignuti od prizemlja, πto omoguÊuje pogled u daljinu, sunce, nebo i more mogu se ovdje doæivjeti u neograniËenim koliËinama. Za razliku od radnog kabineta na istoj etaæi, koji, okrenut prema straænjem vrtu, skromnijih dimenzija, sav obloæen drvetom, priguπena svjetla i pogleda kraÊeg dometa na blisko zeleno raslinje, omoguÊuje znatno kontemplativnije i smirenije raspoloæenje. Dekorativni elementi na stupovima i kapitelima, koji podsjeÊaju na gotiËko-renesansni stil dubrovaËke Sponze, zadræani su u modernistiËki Ëistoj mjeri. Aplicirani su viπe kao znak lokalnoga prostora, nego πto su strukturalni nositelji projekta.

A u skladu s time, kao odjeke lokalnog naslijea u suvremenoj interpretaciji BiliÊa

i Horvata, moæe se promatrati i dispozicija prostora: kompozicija srediπnjega reprezentativnog salona s pokrajnjim manjim salonima podsjeÊa na prostorni model quattro stanze un salon dubrovaËkih plemiÊkih kuÊa. A terase vile Banac mogu biti tekovina dubrovaËke renesansne ladanjske arhitekture terasama i perivojima povezanih s prirodnim okoliπem, jednako kao πto ih je moguÊe tumaËiti u kodu modernistiËke arhitekture i njezine teænje oblikovanju prostora zdravog æivota, punih svjetla i zraka.

Sretna je podudarnost πto je spoj tradicionalnoga i suvremenoga, lokalnoga i internacionalnoga, kakav se moæe naÊi u arhitektonskoj koncepciji vile, i u konceptu na kojemu se temelji program UmjetniËke galerije, koja od 1948. djeluje u tom prostoru, a istodobno ima funkciju muzeja moderne i suvremene umjetnosti, ali i galerije koja prati lokalnu, hrvatsku i meunarodnu suvremenu umjetnost. UmjetniËka galerija Dubrovnik osnovana je kao zbirka nacionalne umjetnosti 1945. godne, a danas ima oko 2500 djela koja datiraju od kraja 19. stoljeÊa, to jest od poËetaka hrvatske moderne (u zbirci su znatno zastupljeni Vlaho Bukovac i Celestin Mato MedoviÊ). Galerija posjeduje djela najvaænijih imena hrvatske umjetnosti 20. stoljeÊa kao πto su Ivan MeπtroviÊ, Miroslav KraljeviÊ, Vladimir BeciÊ, Ljubo BabiÊ, Robert Frangeπ MihanoviÊ, Marino Tartaglia, Ferdinand Kulmer, Ivo DulËiÊ, Oton Gliha, Julije Knifer, sve do suvremenih umjetnika kao πto su Ivan KoæariÊ, Braco DimitrijeviÊ, Goran Trbuljak, Igor RonËeviÊ ili Slaven Tolj... Samo u posljednjih deset godina zbirka se otkupima ili donacijama umjetnika poveÊala za 769 djela, meu kojima su i djela belgijskog umjetnika Jana Fabréa, Mladena Tudora, Æeljka Jermana, Zlatana DumaniÊa, Mare Bratoπ.....

CROATIA AIRLINES

129

U programskoj koncepciji Galerije piπe: Sve interese u izloæbenom programu paæljivo se usklauje kako bi se stvorila interakcija izmeu proπlosti i sadaπnjosti, te lokalnih, nacionalnih i internacionalnih umjetniËkih zbivanja. Stoga se u posljednjih deset godina, otkako je ravnatelj Antun MaraËiÊ, izmeu ostaloga, izloæbena aktivnost sustavno razvija na nekoliko planova. Jedna su linija izloæbe koje monografski obrauju nedovoljno istraæene autore iz nacionalne povijesti umjetnosti (kao πto su Marko Raπica, Gabro RajËeviÊ, Marijan Guvo), izloæbe koje obrauju nedovoljno poznate aspekte modernih klasika (Vlaho Bukovac, Ivo DulËiÊ) i upoznaju dubrovaËku i regionalnu publiku s djelima hrvatskih modernista kao πto su bile retrospektivne izloæbe Oskara Hermana, Emanuela VidoviÊa, Josipa RaËiÊa, ili recentno Ljube BabiÊa. Druga bi vaæna linija bila izloæbe suvremenih umjetnika, koncepcijske ili samostalne, sjedinjene referencijom na konkretan prostor.

- Nastojim uspostaviti interakciju unutar πirokoga vremenskoga i prostornog raspona materijala koji nam je na raspolaganju, ne tako 130

CROATIA AIRLINES

da pasivno preslagujem sadræaje, nego uspostavljajuÊi korespondenciju meu njima Antun MaraËiÊ objaπnjava tu programsku liniju UmjetniËke galerije Dubrovnik.

- Ima mnogo naËina da se to ostvari, ali ono o Ëemu sam ispoËetka vodio raËuna bilo je ustrajanje na afirmaciji galerije kao kulturnog srediπta Grada. Osobito je vaæno da sadræaji koji se u njoj predstavljaju, ostvaruju relaciju s mjestom i ostatkom svijeta. Jedan od u ovom smislu paradigmatskih projekata bio je Dubrovnik - ovdje i drugdje/ Dubrovnik - ici et ailleurs, koji sam radio s uglednom svjetskom kustosicom Catherine David tijekom 2002. i 2003., u kojemu je sudjelovalo desetak umjetnika iz razliËitih dijelova svijeta, ukljuËujuÊi i domaÊe autore (Andreju KulunËiÊ i Slavena Tolja).

Svi su oni pojedinaËno dolazili u Dubrovnik tijekom neπto viπe od godine dana, ovdje su prezentirali svoje radove i ostajali u gradu kako bi upoznali prostor i lokalne probleme, zatim su mu se vraÊali kao sudionici zavrπne izloæbe koja se referirala na njihovo iskustvo mjesta.

Projekt je, dakle, bio idejno izrazito vezan uz Dubrovnik, nemoguÊe ga je preseliti bilo kamo

CROATIA AIRLINES

131

132

CROATIA AIRLINES

drugdje, a upravo takva meunarodna mreæa referencija ona je bitna pretpostavka da neko mjesto postane relevantno srediπte - rekao je svojedobno Antun MaraËiÊ u razgovoru s Markom Golubom, za list Zarez.

PripremajuÊi svoje izloæbe, sliËno su postupili i mnogi ostali autori: konceptualni umjetnik Braco DimitrijeviÊ na izloæbi 2004. slagao je instalacije u kojima je integrirao djela iz fundusa galerije, jedan od najvaænijih dubrovaËkih umjetnika Slaven Tolj, kojemu je taj grad stalan izvor referencija, na svojoj je velikoj izloæbi Izvan sezone UmjetniËku galeriju pretvorio u niz ambijentalnih postava u kojima se koristio stvarnim predmetima prenesenima s dubrovaËkih ulica i trgova. U UmjetniËkoj galeriji pokazani su fotografski ciklusi Ane OpaliÊ snimljeni na dubrovaËkom podruËju, jednako kao i oni fotografskog klasika Toπe Dapca. TreÊa programska cjelina izloæbe su koje omoguÊuju izravan susret Dubrovnika s velikim imenima svjetske umjetnosti. DubrovaËka je publika tako mogla vidjeti djela Pabla Picassa, Alberta Giacomettija, Andyja Warhola, Jana Fabréa, velikane svjetske fotografije poput Cartiera Bressona, Roberta Cape, Roberta Mappelthorpa, Helmuta Newtona... U UmjetniËkoj galeriji Dubrovnik na izloæbi Svjetlina/Brightness u ljeto 2003. prvi su put pokazana djela najvaænijih umjetnika danaπnjice, koje je Francesca von Habsburg skupila u zbirci Thyssen Bornemisza (izmeu ostalih, izloæena su djela Rineke Dijkstra, Olafura Eliassona, Pipilotti Rist, Cindy Sherman, Thomasa Strutha, Billa Viole, Petera Fischlia & Davida Weissa, Douglasa Gordona).

Istodobno se u UmjetniËkoj galeriji prireuju retrospektivne izloæbe hrvatskih suvremenih umjetnika kao πto su Zlatan DumaniÊ ili Vlasta ÆaniÊ. Kustoski tim u kojem su mlade povjesniËarke umjetnosti Rozana Vojvoda i Petra GoluπiÊ zajedno s Antunom MaraËiÊem, nastoji, kako kaæe, ma koji sadræaji (osobnosti, epohe, stilovi, mediji ...) bili u pitanju, zadræati visoku kvalitativnu razinu umjetniËkog materijala i njegova predstavljanja.

UmjetniËka galerija Dubrovnik, kao muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti, jednostavno mora biti ogledno mjesto art-prezentacije, model i parametar vrijednosti. Sve ove manifestacije u sebi sadræavaju i nacrt buduÊeg djelovanja UmjetniËke galerije Dubrovnik kao vaænog punkta remetropolizacije grada Dubrovnika, njegove promocije u umjetniËko srediπte koje nadilazi lokalne granice. Svojom povijeπÊu, kapacitetima, jedinstvenom strukturom i ljepotom, statusom svjetskoga - ne samo turistiËkog - odrediπta, Dubrovnik to jednostavno zahtijeva ∑ MaraËiÊeve su rijeËi iz spomenutog teksta u Zarezu. Dodali bismo,

Dubrovnik kao Grad ali i galerija kao Galerija.

Svaka je izloæba svojom formom prilagoena tom prostoru u koji ulazi, i, zaËudo, svaka sadræajem koji u njega unosi istiËe drukËiji njegov aspekt: jednom svjetlinu i jednostavnost, drugi put njegovu mirnu otmjenost, treÊi put izroni neπto kao dekadentna elegancija. U galerijskome popratnome grafiËkome materijalu Ëesto Êemo vidjeti prizore iz galerije: galerija se vizualizira i u detaljima kao mjesto visoke estetske vrijednosti, jednako kao prostor i kao sadræaj koji se u njemu posjetitelju nudi.

No na pozivnicama Êemo katkad vidjeti, kad je to u skladu s izloæbom koju se najavljuje, i manje reprezentativne prizore iz galerije, depo umjetnina kad se najavljivao postav iz fundusa muzeja, scene postavljanja izloæbe ili pak kuÊnog meπtra na ljestvama. Osim πto su to redovito poetiËne, πarmante ili duhovite scene iz æivota, galerija takvim uprizorenjima izmiËe svojem krutom reprezentativnom statusu i postaje mjesto na kojemu se umjetnost ne samo pokazuje, nego i kao mjesto gdje umjetnost nastaje. n

A

n easy seaside stroll from the PloËe Gate of the old city of Dubrovnik, along Frano Supilo Street, coming to the popular Banje Beach and further on along the path to a quieter St. James, leaves the impression of walking through the auditorium of a nature theatre. The view is expansive, the sky is big, the island of Lokrum is on the horizon, while the constantly changing scenery keeps the strollers’ attention so fully occupied that they are liable to miss the unassuming stone wall with the dark wooden gate which they pass on their stroll. Actually, the stone wall seems like another natural phenomenon in that place, but really there is a disconnect between the monumental and pure geometrical structure and the genuine natural form. However, if the gate happens to be open, a passer-by’s glance will certainly wander into the spacious atrium and then, as he glances upwards, the whole inner world of the magnificent building opens before his eye: a high cube-like shape whose pure volume is skirted with balconies and spacious terraces on several levels; there are also staircases and gardens. To the external world the building presents itself as a prim and proper picture, whereas the size and luxury of the former Banac Villa can be appreciated only from the inside.

When Dubrovnik’s ship-owner Boæo Banac hired architects Harold BiliniÊ and Lavoslav Horvat to build him a representative summer residence they had already acquired quite a lot of experience that they were able to use in carrying out such a demanding task, which CROATIA AIRLINES

133

they did from 1935 to 1939. The older of the two architects, Harold BiliniÊ (1894∑1984), had worked with sculptor Ivan MeπtroviÊ and mastered the art of working with stone. The younger one, Lavoslav Horvat (1901-1989), had graduated from the School of Architecture of the Royal Art Academy in 1935 after having studied for nine years with Professor Drago Ibler as his mentor. He was one of a mere handful of 18 students of architecture who graduated between 1926 and 1943. Horvat was a member of the Zemlja group of artists.

The group was active until 1935 when it was banned by the police because through their art they tried to fight against social injustice.

The members of the group were leftists who strived to achieve a nation-specific expression of art by incorporating local and contemporary influences. In terms of architecture, the Zemlja group moved within the framework of the modernist language of an international style, as well as the pure and logical forms that respected the functionality and construction of a building. At the same time, architects BiliniÊ and Horvat were associates of sculptor Ivan MeπtroviÊ and worked with him on all of his building projects. Their task was to elaborate the projects’ architectural aspects based on the sculptor’s initial ideas.

MeπtroviÊ’s buildings (the Mausoleum in Otavice, the palace in Meje in Split, the Art Pavilion in Zagreb) feature more or less secession details and traces of classicism; their footprints are centred and symmetrical, with monumental colonnades and staircases. Still, the purity of their forms heralded the modernist spirit of the time. We can only speculate as to which team member contributed what, but the Banac family villa in Dubrovnik that BiliniÊ and Horvat designed on their own shows that the modernistic functionalistic understanding of architecture may have been closer to the hearts of the two architects.

On the ground floor, the villa’s footprint revolves around a huge atrium, with a staircase that leads to the equally luxurious rooms on the upper floors. It becomes clear right then and there that pure forms and their proportionate relationships are the main features of the villa’s design. Everything relies on light, which is skilfully introduced into the space, and its soft dispersion; good examples are the white spirals of the staircase vaults comparable with the delicateness of the sculptural forms in the works of Arp or Brancusi. Light was also the gauge that dictated the organization of life in the house. On the upper floor, where the threat from being so close to the street no longer plays a role, particularly at the level of the central salon, there is a pronounced outward 134

CROATIA AIRLINES

directivity. The façade is completely open by means of a large trifora that leads to one of the terraces overlooking the island of Lokrum.

Standing there, above the ground floor, you are able to look far in the distance; you can experience the sun, the sky and the sea in limitless quantities. That is unlike the office space on the same floor that overlooks the garden and is of a somewhat more moderate size, with its walls covered in wooden panelling, dim lights and a view that extends only as far as the greenery in the garden; the serene atmosphere of this room is therefore more conducive to contemplation. Decorative features on the columns and capitals conjure up a gothic renaissance style with a modernist purist take on the Sponza Palace in the old city centre. They have been applied more as a symbol of the place than as structurally important features of the project.

In that same vein, BiliÊ and Horvat’s modern interpretation of the central area can also be regarded as a reflection of local influences: the composition of the central representative salon and the adjacent smaller salons clearly draw inspiration from the spatial model of the quattro stanze un salon as seen in the houses of Dubrovnik’s nobility. The terraces of the Banac family villa may be seen as the legacy of the renaissance architecture found in the countryside around Dubrovnik where terraces and gardens connected the summer houses with their natural surroundings; on the other hand, they can also be interpreted by using the code of modernist architecture and its aspiration to shape spaces so as to render them conducive to healthy living, providing them with an abundance of light and air.

It is a fortunate coincidence that the combinations of traditional and contemporary, local and international in the architectural concept of the villa are also incorporated in the concept behind the programme of the Art Gallery which has occupied the premises since 1948. The gallery serves a dual purpose: it is a museum of modern and contemporary art and a gallery that follows regional, Croatian and international contemporary art. The Dubrovnik Art Gallery was established as a collection of national art in 1945. Currently, it boasts a collection of about 2500 works that date back to the late 19th century, i.e. the beginnings of Croatian Moderna (Vlaho Bukovac and Celestin Mato MedoviÊ occupy prominent places in the holdings). The gallery boasts works by the most important names in 20th century Croatian art, such as Ivan MeπtroviÊ, Miroslav KraljeviÊ, Vladimir BeciÊ, Ljubo BabiÊ, Robert Frangeπ MihanoviÊ, Marino Tartaglia, Ferdinand Kulmer, Ivo DulËiÊ, Oton Gliha, Julije Knifer, and

includes contemporary artists such as Ivan KoæariÊ, Braco DimitrijeviÊ, Goran Trbuljak, Igor RonËeviÊ and Slaven Tolj... Over the past ten years alone, through purchases and donations, the holdings has grown by 769 pieces and now includes works by Belgian artist Jan Fabre, Mladen Tudor, Æeljko Jerman, Zlatan DumaniÊ, Mara Bratoπ.....

The gallery’s programme manifesto reads: All interests pertaining to the exhibition programme are carefully considered in order to create interactions between the past and present, as well as between local, national and international developments in art. Therefore, over the past ten years, since Antun MaraËiÊ has been its director, the gallery’s exhibition activities have systematically developed based on several different plans. One of them is the monographic exhibition that explores insufficiently studied authors from our own national history (such as Marko Raπica, Gabro RajËeviÊ, Marijan Guvo). Another exhibit show cases the lesser known aspects of the modern classics (Vlaho Bukovac, Ivo DulËiÊ). And finally, there are exhibits that aim to acquaint the audiences of Dubrovnik and the region with the works of Croatian modernists, and so far this has included the retrospective exhibits by Oskar Herman, Emanuel VidoviÊ, Josip RaËiÊ, and very recently, Ljubo BabiÊ. The other important line of the gallery’s activities includes the exhibits by contemporary artists, which are either concept exhibitions or one man shows, with both types based on a reference to a concrete space.

- I am trying to establish an interaction within a wide temporal and spatial range of the materials at our disposal. I do not just passively rearrange the contents, but rather I establish a relationship of correspondence between them, said Antun MaraËiÊ as he explains the programme of the Dubrovnik Art Gallery.

- There are many ways and means to achieve this goal. However, from the very outset I have insisted on affirming the role of the gallery as the city’s cultural centre. Quite importantly, the contents presented here establish a relationship between the place and the rest of the world. In that sense, one of the paradigmatic projects was Dubrovnik ∑ here and elsewhere/ Dubrovnik - ici et ailleurs, which I co-authored with the prominent world-class curator Catherine David during 2002 and 2003. The dozen or so participating authors came from different parts of the world and included local talent as well (Andreja KulunËiÊ and Slaven Tolj).

Individually, each of them came to Dubrovnik throughout a period of more than a year to acquaint themselves with the area and the local issues, and they presented their work while

CROATIA AIRLINES

135

staying in the city. Then they later returned to Dubrovnik to participate in the final exhibition which was a reference to their experiences of the city. As the idea of the project was strongly linked to Dubrovnik it would be impossible to move it anywhere else. It is precisely that type of international network of references that is such an important prerequisite for a venue to become a relevant centre, said Antun MaraËiÊ in an interview with Marko Golub for Zarez newspaper.

Many other authors went through the same or similar processes in preparation for their exhibits: for his 2004 exhibition, conceptual artist Braco DimitrijeviÊ composed installations into which he integrated works from the gallery’s holdings; one of the most important of Dubrovnik’s artists, Slaven Tolj, who finds this city a constant source of references, turned the Art Gallery into a series of ambient scenes during his great exhibition Off Season. He had used genuine objects that he had found and brought over from the streets and squares of Dubrovnik. The Art Gallery has exhibited Ana OpaliÊ’s series of photos taken in and around Dubrovnik, as well as those authored by classic art photographer, Toπo Dabac. The third part of the programme includes the exhibits which provide Dubrovnik the opportunity to see works by big international artists. The audiences have thus seen works by Pablo Picasso, Albert Giacometti, Andy Warhol, Jan Fabre, the great names in world photography such as Cartier Bresson, Robert Capa, Robert Mapplethorpe, Helmut Newton... The Dubrovnik Art Gallery also organized an exhibition under the name Svjetlina/Brightness, and thus

136

CROATIA AIRLINES

it became the first gallery to show works by the most important contemporary artists that were collected by Francesca von Habsburg in the Thyssen Bornemisza collection (the works on display included those by Rineke Dijkstra, Olafur Eliasson, Pipilotti Rist, Cindy Sherman, Thomas Struth, Bill Viola, Peter Fischli & David Weiss, Douglas Gordon).

At the same time, the Art Gallery organizes retrospective exhibits by contemporary Croatian authors such as Zlatan DumaniÊ and Vlasta ÆaniÊ. The team of curators includes young art historians Rozana Vojvoda and Petra GoluπiÊ.

Together with Antun MaraËiÊ, they try, as they say, to maintain a high quality level of artistic material and the way it is presented, irrespective of the content (personalities, periods, styles, media).

The Dubrovnik Art Gallery, as a museum of modern and contemporary art, simply must exist as a representative place for presenting art, as a model and a benchmark of values.

All of these events plot out a plan of the future activities of the Dubrovnik Art Gallery as a pivotal point of the re-metropolisation of the city of Dubrovnik, its promotion as an art centre that reaches out to audiences beyond the local borders. Dubrovnik simply demands it with its history, capacities, unique structure and beauty and its status as a global ∑ and not only tourist ∑ destination. This is a quote from the aforementioned MaraËiÊ interview in Zarez.

To that we would also add, Dubrovnik as the City but also a gallery as the Gallery.

The form of every exhibit is adapted to the space it is about to enter, and curiously enough, all of them, by bringing their own content, bring out a different quality in this space: one time it is a brightness and simplicity; the other time it is a serene elegance; and a decadent elegance emerges the third time.

Scenes from the gallery are often depicted in the gallery’s accompanying printed publications. The gallery is visually presented in detail as a place of high aesthetic value, both in terms of the space as well as contents on offer to its visitors. However, whenever the exhibition allows for such an approach, the invitations will show even the less representative scenes from the gallery. For example, the art depot was depicted on the invitations to the exhibit of works from the gallery’s holdings; and there were also details of the work in progress, including the gallery’s handyman on a ladder.

Besides showing poetic, charming or witty scenes from everyday life, the gallery uses such enactments to elude its rigid and representative status, thus becoming a place where art is not only exhibited but a place where art is also created. n

11. festival Julian Rachlin & Friends u Dubrovniku od 27. kolovoza do 8. rujna 2011.

11. Julian Rachlin & Friends Festival in Dubrovnik from 27 August to 8 September 2011

Piπe/By: Branimir Pofuk

T

o je Ëinjenica: tko je prelijep, ne treba uvijek biti i prebogat da bi si priuπtio najljepπe darove. Tako je i s Dubrovnikom i glazbom.

Premda ne raspolaæe neograniËenim financijskim sredstvima kao neka atraktivnosti sliËna svjetska odrediπta, Dubrovnik privlaËi i uza se veæe svojom jedinstvenom magiËnoπÊu.

Meu ljude oËarane tom ljepotom pripadaju i neki od najboljih svjetskih glazbenika, glumaca, umjetnika… kao πto su violinist Julian Rachlin i njegovo ekskluzivno druπtvo koje on veÊ 11 godina zaredom potkraj ljeta okuplja u Dubrovniku. Poπto 25. kolovoza tradicionalno zavrπe DubrovaËke ljetne igre (Dubrovnik Summer Festival), u poËetku rujna poËinje festival Julian Rachlin & Friends. A ove godine joπ ranije, veÊ 27. kolovoza, pa se koncertne tribine i pozornice neÊe morati ni uklanjati.

VeÊ na otvaranje festivala stiæe legendarni maestro Zubin Mehta, koji Êe s Rachlinom i orkestrom Beogradske filharmonije svirati Violinski koncert i Drugu simfoniju Johannesa Brahmsa. Bit Êe to sjajna prilika i hrvatskoj i inozemnoj publici da provjere priËe o beogradskom orkestru koji je u posljednjih deset godina napravio silan skok u kvaliteti i ambicijama.

Nakon toga, sve do 8. rujna, slijedi prava parada zvijezda, ne samo glazbeniËkih, nego i filmskih. Nakon velikog uspjeha lani, John Malkovich trebao bi s odabranim glazbenicima izvesti nastavak duhovitoga i pouËnog programa pod nazivom MuziËki kritiËar. Najvjerniji hollywoodski gost, Sir Roger Moore,

zakljuËit Êe festival glazbenom humoreskom koju smiπlja i reæira sjajni pijanist Hyung-ki Joo. U istraæivanju zabavne i komiËne strane ozbiljne glazbe pridruæit Êe im se i glasovita britanska sopranistica Dame Felicity Lott.

Ali, vrhunskim komornim glazbenicima poput Mishe Maiskog, Janine Jansen, Itamara Golana, Borisa Andrianova i ostalih, jedan drugi vrhunski glas pridruæit Êe se veÊ 28. kolovoza. Sjajni austrijski bariton Florian Boesch pod ljetnim Êe nebom u Ëudesnom ambijentu atrija Kneæeva dvora oæivjeti zimu pjevajuÊi majstorski ciklus Franza Schuberta Zimsko putovanje (Die Winterreise). Na Rachlinov poziv stiæu i virtuoz udaraljki Martin Grubinger i balalajke Alexey Arkhipovsky te Artemis Quartet, a vraÊaju se pijanist Yefim Bronfman i orkestar Academy of St. Martin in the Fields. To su samo neki od mnogo razloga da se i vi poæurite. Ulaznice su veÊ u prodaji na internetskoj adresi https://www.culturall.com/ticket/rachlin. www.rachlinandfriends.com ■

I

t is a fact of life: beautiful people do not always have to be rich in order to afford the nicest gifts. It is the same for Dubrovnik and music. Although it does not have unlimited financial resources at its disposal like some similar attractive world destinations, Dubrovnik attracts with its unique magic.

Among those who have been enchanted by that beauty are some of the world’s best musicians, actors and artists... such as violinist Julian Rachlin and his exclusive company who have been gathering in Dubrovnik at the end of the summer for 11 years in a row already. After the traditional Dubrovnik Summer Festival comes to a close on 25 August, the Julian Rachlin & Friends Festival starts at the beginning of September. This year it will start even earlier, on 27 August, and so the concert grandstand and stages will not even have to be taken down.

The opening of the festival will feature legendary maestro Zubin Mehta who will perform Johannes Brahms’ Violin Concerto and Second Symphony with Rachlin and the

Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra. This will be a wonderful opportunity for the Croatian and foreign audiences to confirm what they have heard about the Belgrade orchestra, which has dramatically improved it quality and ambitions in the last ten years.

Following this, until 8 September, there will be a true parade of stars, not only musicians, but film stars as well. After the incredible success last year, John Malkovich and select musicians will continue their comical and educational program called Music Critic.

The most loyal Hollywood guest, Sir Roger Moore, will close the festival with a musical comedy which was created and directed by the incredible pianist Hyung-ki Joo. In the search for the fun and comical side of serious music, they will be joined by the renowned British soprano, Dame Felicity Lott. However, top-class chamber musicians, such as Mischa Maisky, Janine Jansen, Itamar Golan, Boris Andrianov and others, will also be joined by another top-class voice already on 28 August; the great Austrian baritone Florian Boesch will conjure up winter scenes under the summer sky, in the incredible ambience of the Rector’s Palace atrium, as he sings the master series

by Franz Schubert Die Winterreise (Winter Journey). Rachlin has also invited the virtuoso percussionist Martin Grubinger and balalaika player Alexey Arkhipovsky and the Artemis Quarter, as well as pianist Yefim Bronfman and the orchestra of the Academy of St. Martin in the Fields. These are just some of the many reasons for you to hurry to Dubrovnik. Tickets are already available online at: https://www.culturall.com/ticket/rachlin www.rachlinandfriends.com ■

CROATIA AIRLINES

137

Vrtovi sunca u Dubrovniku Smjeπteni na slikovitom dijelu dubrovaËke rivijere, naselje Vrtovi sunca u Dubrovniku okruæeni su prekrasnim Sredozemnim vrtovima i u blizini su mnogih atrakcija. ©ljunËana plaæa i marina tek su nekoliko koraka od naselja, a prekrasan okoliπ pruæa savrπene moguÊnosti za ugodnu πetnju.

Glavni je objekt turistiËkog naselja Vrtovi sunca hotel Radisson Blu. Svaka od 201 elegantne i prostrane hotelske sobe ima terasu s pogledom na kristalno bistro Jadransko more i otoËje Elafiti u neposrednoj blizini.

Na udaljenosti od samo nekoliko koraka, 207 rezidencija potpuno opremljenih u sredozemnom stilu skladno nadopunjuje uglaen i moderan dizajn ovog hotela. Barovi, restorani i terase ovog rezidencijskog naselja omiljeno su mjesto susreta za stalne stanovnike i njihove goste. Kongresnim gostima naselje nudi jedan od najsvestranijih kongresnih centara na jadranskoj obali, Ëija glavna kongresna dvorana nema premca po opremljenosti, ugoaju i kapacitetu.

Doite i opustite se u jednome od najveÊih spa i wellness centara na cijeloj dalmatinskoj obali. Na povrπini od dojmljivih 3500 Ëetvornih metara, Spa i Wellness centar spoj je ugode i luksuznih tretmana u kojima Êete uæivati u ugodnome morskom okruæju i elegantnome i intimnom ozraËju.

Naselje je sagraeno na obali blizu Oraπca, samo dvadeset minuta voænje od stare jezgre Dubrovnika i samo 45 minuta od meunarodne zraËne luke Dubrovnik. Spoj povijesnih znamenitosti, kulturne ponude i netaknute prirode koja okruæuje Vrtove sunca te najsuvremeniji sadræaji toga turistiËkog naselja kategorije pet zvjezdica savrπena je prilika da se doæivi proπlost i sadaπnjost Hrvatske u najboljem izdanju.

DubrovaËki vrtovi sunca isto tako nude svojim gostima nesvakidaπnju pogodnost: vlasniπtvo potpuno opremljene rezidencije s profesionalnim upraviteljem, veliËine od 44 do 107 Ëetvornih metara. Vlasnicima rezidencije na raspolaganju su svi sadræaji toga prekrasnog naselja na samoj obali mora. Cijene su rezidencija od 170.000 eura na viπe.

Pobjegnite od svakodnevice i doite u dubrovaËke Vrtove sunca. Sa zadovoljstvom vam nudimo: Spa uæitke Opustite se i neometano uæivajte u ponudi Radisson Blu Resort & Spa Vrtova sunca u Dubrovniku. Paket-aranæman ukljuËuje dva noÊenja s ukusnim bife doruËkom u hotelu te jednim spa tretmanom po osobi.

138

CROATIA AIRLINES

Cijena od 119 eura Kako biste saznali viπe o ovoj jedinstvenoj ponudi te moguÊnosti kupnje rezidencije u naselju Vrtovi sunca u Dubrovniku, molimo vas da nam se obratite s povjerenjem: Dubrovnik Sun Gardens Na Moru 1, 20234 Oraπac, Croatia Telephone +385 (0)20 361 500 www.radissonblu.com/resort-dubrovnik www.dubrovniksungardens.com

Dubrovnik Sun Gardens Enjoying a picturesque seafront location on the Dubrovnik Riviera, Dubrovnik Sun Gardens is set in glorious Mediterranean gardens close to countless attractions. A pebble beach with a marina lies just steps from the resort, while the stunning countryside nearby is perfect for a leisurely stroll.

The resort offers a 201 room Radisson Blu hotel, which is the centerpiece of Dubrovnik Sun Gardens. Each of the elegant and spacious rooms have a private terrace with a view across the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic to the nearby Elafiti Islands.

The sleek, modern design of the hotel complements the 207 fully appointed Mediterranean style residences located just a few steps away.

With its bar, restaurants, and outdoor terraces it’s a great meeting place for residents and holiday guests alike. For our conference delegates it offers one of the most versatile conference centres on the Croatian coast, with a main conference hall that is unsurpassed in both its décor and capacity.

Step in and relax at the largest spa along the Dalmatian coast. Spanning an impressive 3,500 square metres, the spa combines the relaxing and luxurious treatments with a stunning seaside setting and chic cocoon ambience.

The resort is situated on the coast near to the village of Oraπac, only twenty minutes from Old Town Dubrovnik, and just 45 minutes from Dubrovnik International Airport. The history, culture, and unspoilt nature that surround Dubrovnik Sun Gardens, combined with the superb modern facilities available on this fivestar resort, offer an unrivalled opportunity to experience the perfect blend of Croatia’s past and present.

Dubrovnik Sun Gardens also offers its guest a rare opportunity to own a fully appointed and professionally managed residence, ranging in size from 44 to 107 square metres. Ownership offers full access to amenities at this stunning waterfront resort. Ownership starts from 170,000 Euro.

Come and spend a relaxing get-away at the Dubrovnik Sun Gardens. We are pleased to offer you: Spa Delight Bask in pure spa delight at Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Dubrovnik Sun Gardens. Guests receive two-night accommodation in a Standard room complemented with one spa treatment per person and the hotel’s delicious buffet breakfast.

Prices from 119 EUR To learn more about this unique offer and the ownership opportunity at Dubrovnik Sun Gardens please contact us at: Dubrovnik Sun Gardens Na Moru 1, 20234 Oraπac, Croatia Telephone +385 (0)20 361 500 www.radissonblu.com/resort-dubrovnik www.dubrovniksungardens.com

CROATIA AIRLINES

139

M

oæete ovdje imati samo svoju uvalu, uæivati u najljepπim zalascima sunca, a nedugo zatim prisustvovati vrhunskim priredbama hrvatskih i svjetskih umjetnika. U konobi ili vrhunskom restoranu, uz more ili u unutraπnjosti, kao Robinzon ili kao lice s naslovnice, uæivat Êete ovdje u vrhunskoj usluzi te pamtiti boje, mirise i okuse vrijedne povratka.

- Mnogo je toga πto u ovoj najjuænijoj hrvatskoj regiji vrijedi vidjeti, doæivjeti i, dakako, okusiti.

Jednako kao i mnogi gosti koji ovamo dolaze iz cijelog svijeta zrakoplovima, brodovima ili cestom, i vi Êete veÊ poslije prvog posjeta reÊi: ovamo se æelim vratiti. Doista, ta je regija istinski magnet!

DubrovaËka regija i otoci To je istinski magnet!

Uæivajte u prekrasnom koncertu svjetskih glazbenika u Kneæevu dvoru u Dubrovniku.. ProπeÊite dubrovaËkim Stradunom ili uskim mediteranskim uliËicama Cavtata, KorËule, Stona… Zaplovite kristalno Ëistim morem, uæivajte u tiπini prekrasnih juænodalmatinskih uvala ili se pridruæite brojnoj publici na koncertima i kazaliπnim predstavama pod vedrim nebom. I te kako zvjezdanim nebom! Upoznajte tradiciju i bogate adrenalinske i rekreativne moguÊnosti unutraπnjosti. Obiite DubrovaËke il pak hodajte Stonskim zidinama, od kojih je duæi jedino Kineski zid. Plovite, plivajte, pjeπaËite, otiite na fotosafari - æivite punim pluÊima i uæivajte u svakom novom danu i brojnim moguÊnostima da − πto god izabrali - danaπnji dan uËinite ljepπim od juËeraπnjeg ali i sutraπnji joπ bogatijim doæivljajima od proπloga. Ta najjuænija hrvatska regija istinski je magnet!

Svevremenski grad Za mnoge, Dubrovnik je sinonim za ljepotu i zaπtitni znak hrvatskog turizma. Grad upisan u svjetsku baπtinu Unesca ali i meu vodeÊim gradovima na svjetskim rang-ljestvicama ljepote i popularnosti.

Njegovu veliËanstvenost najbolje Êete shvatiti hodajuÊi zidinama dugaËkima oko dva kilometra, πirokima od Ëetiri do πest metara te visokima oko 25 metara, koje - utvrene tvravama i pojaËane tornjevima - zaokruæuju cijeli gradski prostor.

ProπeÊite dubrovaËkim Stradunom, prepoznajuÊi nerijetko u prolaznicima pripadnike svjetskog jetseta koji se, jednako kao i vi, klanjaju ljepoti toga vjeËnoga, bezvremenskoga grada.

Iako bi bilo teπko reÊi πto je u tom gradu-spomeniku Dubrovniku ljepπe i zbog Ëega gosti viπe dolaze, nedvojbeno je da svi − uz ljepotu njegovih graevina i kvalitetu turistiËkih usluga prestiænih hotela ali i drugih oblika smjeπtaja u gradu i cijeloj regiji - uæivajte u bogatim kulturnim programima grada festivala, specifiËnoj atmosferi te njegovoj vrhunskoj enogastronomskoj ponudi.

Cijela regija − turistiËka riznica Dubrovnik je, nema dvojbe, najsnaæniji motiv za dolazak u ovu poznatu turistiËku regiju i najuvjerljivija pozivnica. Ali, ne i jedina…. Moæete ovdje imati samo svoju uvalu, uæivati u najljepπim zalascima sunca a nedugo zatim prisustvovati vrhunskim priredbama hrvatskih i svjetskih umjetnika. U konobi ili vrhunskom restoranu, uz more ili u unutraπnjosti, kao Robinzon ili kao lice s naslovnice, uæivat Êete ovdje u vrhunskoj usluzi te pamtiti boje, izvorne mirise i okuse vrijedne povratka. U bisere regije svakako se ubraja Nacionalni park Mljet, Elafitski otoci, kao i otok KorËula. Taj je posljednji postojbina putopisca i istraæivaËa Marka Pola, privlaËi mnoge turiste koji uz obalnu ponudu sve viπe otkrivaju i unutraπnjost otoka te njegova nadaleko poznata vina…KorËuli je najbliæe kopno poluotok Peljeπac i njegovo turistiËko srediπte OrebiÊ. Zbog specifiËne obalne 140

CROATIA AIRLINES

razvedenosti i bujnoga biljnog svijeta, mnogo πume te vrijedne kulturne baπtine, zapadni dio joπ jedne prirodne atrakcije, otoka Mljeta, proglaπen je nacionalnim parkom. Na tom otoku nalazi se joπ jedan fenomen - dva jezera s morskom vodom. S obzirom na moguÊnosti hotelskog smjeπtaja i sportske rekreacije, Mljet je cijenjeno odrediπte za odmor.

I najjuæniji hrvatski gradiÊ Cavtat, nadomak Dubrovnika, prava je prigoda za odmor u idiliËnoj prirodi na istoËnom rubu Æupskog zaljeva. Bujno sredozemno i suptropsko raslinje, lijepe uvale, plaæe i okolni otoËiÊi, folklorom i moguÊnostima rekreacije bogati Konavli - sve to kao da je okvir za sliku toga æivopisnoga gradiÊa, znaËajnoga turistiËkog srediπta, ali i ishodiπta za aktivan odmor. Jedna od nedvojbenih atrakcija te regije Stonske su zidine duge Ëak 5,5 kilometara, po veliËini druge u svijetu, odmah poslije Kineskog zida. Svake godine sve viπe turista dolazi i u dolinu Neretve, kamo ih privlaËi ljepota i oËuvanost prirode, tradicija i gastronomska ponuda.

I mnogo je joπ toga πto vrijedi vidjeti, doæivjeti i, dakako, okusiti. Jednako kao i mnogi gosti koji u dubrovaËku luku, jednu od najpopularnijih na Mediteranu, dolaze kruzerima, i vi Êete - bez obzira na to dolazite li zrakoplovom, brodom ili automobilom - veÊ poslije prvog posjeta reÊi: ovamo se æelim vratiti. Doista, ta je regija istinski magnet!

■

H

ere you can have your own bay, enjoy the most beautiful sunsets and afterwards attend excellent performances by Croatian and worldwide artists. Whether in a tavern or in a top restaurant, by the sea or in the inland like Robinson or like a famous person from a cover, you will definitely enjoy the top service remembering all the colours, scents and tastes worthy of your comeback.

- Many things of the southernmost Croatian region are worth seeing, experiencing and, of course, tasting. Just like many other guests who come here from all over the world by planes, ships or by road, after the first visit you will also be the one to say: I want to come back here. This region is a real magnet!

The region of Dubrovnik with its islands It’s a real magnet!

Enjoy a beautiful concert by world known musicians in the Kneæev dvor Palace in Dubrovnik.

Walk along the main street of Dubrovnik − Stradun − or along many narrow Mediterranean streets of Cavtat, KorËula, Ston, Sail along the crystal clear sea, enjoy the silence of beautiful southern Dalmatian bays or be a part of numerous audience that attends concerts and theatrical performances under the clear blue sky covered in stars. Discover the tradition and various recreational opportunities of the inland which make your adrenaline rise. Walk along the Walls of Dubrovnik or along the Wall of Ston - the second longest wall in the world after the Great Wall of China. Sail, swim, walk, go on a photo safari − live to the fullest and enjoy each new day as well as many possibilities so that − whatever you choose − you make the present day more beautiful than the previous one, but the next day even richer in experience than the present one. This region situated in the south of Croatia is a real magnet!

The timeless town For many people Dubrovnik is a synonym for the beauty and a trademark of Croatian tourism. The town is added to the World Heritage of UNESCO and is among the leading towns in the worldwide rank lists when it comes to its beauty and popular-

ity. You will experience and understand its magnificence by walking along the walls (length: two km, width: four to six km, height: cca 25 metres) which, fortified by fortresses and towers, encircle the entire surface of the town. Walk along the Stradun Street of Dubrovnik where you can recognise world known jetsetters who, as well as you, bow to the beauty of this eternal and timeless town.

Although it would be difficult to say what is more beautiful in this monumental town and what is the reason of numerous guests’ arrivals, it is without a doubt that − along the beauty of its buildings and the quality of tourist services in the prestigious hotels, but also in other forms of accommodation in town and in the entire region − they enjoy the rich cultural programs during the town’s festivals, its specific atmosphere and its top enogastronomic offer.

The region of Dubrovnik − a touristic treasury Being without a doubt the strongest motive for coming to this well-known touristic region, Dubrovnik itself is its most persuasive invitation.

Nevertheless, it isn’t the only one … Here you can have your own bay, enjoy the most beautiful sunsets after which you can attend excellent performances by Croatian and worldwide artists.

Whether in a tavern or in a top restaurant, by the sea or in the inland like Robinson or like a famous person from a cover, you will definitely enjoy the top service remembering all the colours, scents and tastes worthy of your comeback. The pearls of this region are: National Park of Mljet, the Elafiti Islands, as well as the Island of KorËula. The latter is a hometown of a famous travel writer and explorer Marko Polo. It attracts numerous tourists who, along the coastal offer, have been discovering the inland of the island and its well-known wines. The nearest mainland to the island is the peninsula of Peljeπac and its touristic centre of OrebiÊ. Due to its specific geographical appearance of its coast − richness in islands, peninsulas and bays − and to its lush vegetation, many forests and valuable cultural heritage, the western part of another natural attraction heritage − the Island of Mljet − is also declared a national park. The island is famous for another phenomenon − there are two lakes filled with sea water. Considering the possibilities of hotel accommodations and of sport recreation, Mljet is a denominated destination for a vacation.

The southernmost Croatian town of Cavtat, situated in the vicinity of Dubrovnik, represents a real opportunity for a vacation in an idyllic nature at the eastern edge of the Æupski Bay. Rich Mediterranean and subtropical plants, beautiful bays, beaches and nearby isles, the town of Konavli, which offers rich folklore and many recreational opportunities − represents a picture frame for this picturesque town, important as a touristic centre, but also as a destination for an active vacation.

One of the undoubted attractions of this region are the Wall of Ston with the length of even 5,5 km, which makes it the second largest wall in the world, right after the Great Wall of China. Each year more and more tourists come to the valley of Neretva attracted by the beauty and the intactness of the nature, but also by the tradition and its gastronomic offer.

There are many things worth seeing, experiencing and, of course, tasting. As well as numerous guests who arrive on cruisers in the Port of Dubrovnik, one of the most famous ports of the Mediterranean, no matter whether you arrive by plane, ship or car, after the first visit you will also say: I want to come back here. This region is a real magnet!

■

CROATIA AIRLINES

141

142

CROATIA AIRLINES

PRIRODA NATURE ■

©ume i πumska zemljiπta u Hrvatskoj pokrivaju gotovo 50 posto kopnene povrπine, bogate su velikom raznolikoπÊu staniπta i s viπe od 60 razliËitih πumskih zajednica. U svijetu poznate su zbog prirodnog sastava u 95 posto povrπine i velike raznolikosti biljnih i æivotinjskih vrsta, πto je poglavito rezultat dosadaπnjeg iskustva i odræiva gospodarenja. Kao zemlja s 250-godiπnjom tradicijom πumarske struke i znanosti, Republika Hrvatska stoga nije sluËajno najzasluænija πto je UN 2011. proglasio Meunarodnom godinom πuma.

Forests and woodlands in Croatia cover almost 50 percent of the continental area, have an abundance of diverse habitats and more than 60 different forest communities. They are known throughout the world for the natural composition of 95 percent of their area and for their great diversity in terms of plant and animal life, which is primarily the result of years of experience and sustainable management. It is not by chance that the Republic of Croatia a country with 250 years of tradition in the forestry profession and sciences is the most deserving that the United Nations proclaimed 2011 the International Year of Forests.

Piše/By Davorka Vukov ColiÊ Fotografije/Photos Izložba ©uma okom šumara, Hrvatsko šumarsko društvo/ Exhibition Forest through the eyes of foresters, Croatian Forestry Association

©

uma najljepπe pjeva, rekla je nekom prilikom poznata operna pjevaËica Ljiljana Molnar TalajiÊ. Ta jednostavna, poetiËna reËenica moæda najljepπe opisuje prirodno blago koje zaprema 31 posto kopna, odræava 80 posto bioloπke raznolikosti na Zemlji i dom je za 300,000.000 ljudi. TreÊina ih se ekonomski iskoriπtava u proizvodnji, a viπe od treÊine praπume su. Samo u 2004. godini dale su plodova i drva u vrijednosti od 327.000,000.000 dolara, a na raËun njih i od njih æivi 1.600,000.000 ljudi.

Ali πume sve manje pjevaju. Samo u proteklih 15 godina u svijetu je tiho nestalo πumskih povrπina veliËine cijele NjemaËke, dovoljan razlog za uzbunu i upozorenje da se zelenim pluÊima sve teæe diπe. Nepovratno je uniπtena polovina tropskih πuma i onih u podruËjima s umjerenom klimom. U tropskim podruËjima svake se sekunde uniπtava jedno jutro πume.

Nestala je gotovo polovina moËvara i treÊina πuma mangrova u obalnim podruËjima, otpornih na morsku sol…, piπe u svojoj knjizi Most na rubu svijeta (The Bridge at the Edge of the CROATIA AIRLINES

143

World) James Gustave Speth, dekan ©kole za πumarstvo i studije okoliπa sa SveuËiliπta Yale.

HoÊe li se ranjena πuma svetiti Ëovjeku poput one oËerupane, jadne i sive u Tolkienovu Gospodaru prstenova? Urotivπi se protiv te ekoloπke tvornice, Ëovjek se urotio protiv samog sebe, zaboravljajuÊi da one reguliraju klimu, slijevna podruËja i lokalne hidroloπke sustave, spreËavaju eroziju tla, utjeËu na kvalitetu vode i zraka, a æivot na Zemlji jednostavno uljepπavaju.

Hrvatska je zbog toga joπ 2005. godine, kao Ëlanica Foruma za πume Ujedinjenih naroda (UNFF), pokrenula inicijativu za Meunarodnu godinu πuma, pa je rezolucijom Generalne skupπtine UN-a broj 61/193 od 20. prosinca 2006. Meunarodnom godinom proglaπena 2011. godina. Njome se, kako kaæu u Ministarstvu regionalnog razvoja, πumarstva i vodnoga gospodarstva, æeljelo iskazati poπtovanje prema πumskim ekoloπkim sustavima i njihovoj vaænosti za opstanak planeta. Na taj simboliËan naËin Hrvatska nastoji pojaËati napore u promicanju odræiva gospodarenja πumama, njihovu razvoju i oËuvanju diljem svijeta.

PoËetak Meunarodne godine πuma sluæbeno je proglaπen na 9. zasjedanju UNFF-a, koje se od 24. sijeËnja do 4. veljaËe odræavalo u sjediπtu Ujedinjenih naroda u New Yorku.

Tijekom zasjedanja te meunarodne krovne organizacije u πumarskoj struci, koja odreuje smjer πumarstva na globalnoj razini, a tvore je sve dræave Ëlanice UN-a i specijalizirane agencije, otvorena je i velika fotoizloæba ©uma okom πumara hrvatskih autora, koji pokazuju sve ljepote i bogatstvo hrvatskog πumskog blaga. Realiziralo ju je Hrvatsko πumarsko druπtvo, a u UN organiziralo Ministarstvo regionalnog razvoja, πumarstva i vodnoga gospodarstva. RijeË je o zanimljivu projektu bjelovarskog ogranka Hrvatskoga πumarskog druπtva zapoËetom potkraj devedesetih kao lokalna amaterska izloæba, a s vremenom prerasla je u meunarodni salon fotografije i preπla hrvatske granice.

U odnosu na 800,000.000 hektara πume koliko ih ima Ruska Federacija i brazilskih 480,000.000 hektara, Surinama kojemu je 94.7 posto ili Francuske Gijane kojoj je 91.8 posto teritorija tapetirano πumom, Hrvatska je u UNFF-u doista malena, ali odnos prema tome neprocjenjivom prirodnom blagu oËito se ne mjeri samo hektarima, pa Hrvatska kao zemlja s 250-godiπnjom tradicijom πumarske struke i znanosti nije sluËajno inicijator takve akcije. ©ume i πumska zemljiπta u nas pokrivaju gotovo 2,700.000 hektara ili 48 posto kopnene povrπine, a bogate velikom raznolikoπÊu staniπta i s viπe od 60 razliËitih 144

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

145

146

CROATIA AIRLINES

πumskih zajednica, u svijetu su poznate zbog prirodnog sastava u 95 posto povrπine i velike raznolikosti biljnih i æivotinjskih vrsta, πto je poglavito rezultat dosadaπnjeg iskustva i odræiva gospodarenja.

O tradiciji i znanju govori Ëak i veliko ime hrvatske literature, Josip Kozarac. Tu se diæu velebni hrastovi sa sivkastom korom, izrovanom ravnim brazdama koje teku duæ cijelog, dvadeset metara visokog debla…, opisivao je u romanu Slavonska πuma to ponos-stablo svakoga Slavonca. Taj veliki knjiæevnik i πumarski struËnjak s jednakom je straπÊu pisao romane i pripovijetke, kao i struËne Ëlanke o pomlaivanju posavskih hrastika, vaænosti prorjeivanja, naletu jasena u slavonske hrastike ili o proraËunu vrijednosti hrastovih sjeËina. Njegove rasprave o πumama bile su poznate πumarskim struËnjacima iz Zapadne Europe i Rusije, a tisuÊu hektara πuma hrasta luænjaka oko Lipovljana nosi KozarËevo ime, kao podsjeÊanje na to da im je gospodario potkraj devetnaestog stoljeÊa.

U KozarËevoj literaturi raskoπna slavonska πuma ima gotovo kultni status, kao πto se i u Dalmaciji osobito πtuje svako drvo, a svako izgoreno stablo u ljetnim poæarima smatra tragedijom. Malo koja zemlja poput Hrvatske na tako maloj povrπini ima tako velike πumske raznolikosti, od bogatoga Gorskog kotara do djeviËanskog Mljeta, od πuma bukvi i hrasta, do obiËnoga graba, od jele i smreke do bora, od gospodarskih πuma do nacionalnih parkova, od mediteranske πume do praπume. Gotovo ih je 80 posto (2,000.000 ha) u dræavnom vlasniπtvu, a oko 20 posto u privatnome. ©umarstvo i drvna industrija tvore oko 3,5 posto bruto domaÊeg proizvoda, zapoπljavaju 4,5 posto radne snage i sudjeluju s 12 posto u izvozu, izvozeÊi najviπe u Italiju i NjemaËku.

Potpisivanjem i ratificiranjem meunarodnih sporazuma, Hrvatska dokazuje da misli ozbiljno kad je rijeË o odræivu gospodarenju πumama, odræivoj proizvodnji, Ëuvanju okoliπa i poπtivanju druπtvenih vrijednosti πuma, zbog Ëega su Hrvatske πume d.o.o. i dobile ugledan meunarodni certifikat Forest Stewardship Councila (FSC), nezavisne, nevladine i neprofitne organizacije za promicanje odgovornoga gospodarenja svjetskim πumama. Tijekom svih dogaanja u vezi s obiljeæavanjem Meunarodne godine πuma, Republika Hrvatska i hrvatski πumari spremni su podijeliti svoja iskustva i primjere iz duge prakse odræiva gospodarenja.

Geslo Meunarodne godine glasi πume za ljude, a logo je deblo s kroπnjom ispunjenom simbolima koji govore o πumi kao Ëuvarici stabilnosti klime, izvoru bioloπke raznoli-

kosti, hrane, lijekova i pitke vode. Tijekom ove godine u nas i u svijetu pokrenut Êe se niz akcija i prigodnih manifestacija, a Ministarstvo regionalnog razvoja, πumarstva i vodnoga gospodarstva koordinator je svega πto Êe Hrvatska poduzeti na domaÊoj i meunarodnoj sceni. To je prilika da se uvijek iznova podsjeÊa na notornu istinu kako se pluÊa svijeta ne smiju dugoroËno ærtvovati zbog kratkoroËnog profita, kao πto se i sada brutalno sijeku zbog proπirenja poljoprivrednih povrπina, gradnje prometnica, dalekovoda, naftovoda i prijeti zbog uzgoja æitarica za proizvodnju biogoriva. Briπu je katastrofalni poæari poput proπloljetnoga u Rusiji, koji su posljedica nekontrolirane klime, a jedan od uzroka podivljale klime nekontrolirana je sjeËa πuma, pa se vrtimo u krugu. ©umarstvo Êe stoga u svijetu sve viπe preuzimati ekoloπku i zaπtitnu funkciju, πto Êe traæiti prilagodbu svih institucija i dijelova druπtva, izravno ili neizravno u vezi sa πumarstvom.

Ali meunarodnu zajednicu Ëeka joπ jedan veliki izazov. Demografi kaæu da Êe sljedeÊa dva desetljeÊa stanovniπtvo rasti za viπe od 100,000.000 ljudi na godinu, pri Ëemu Êe ih se viπe od 95 posto raati u zemljama u razvoju, ionako siromaπnima obradivom zemljom i vodom. Stoga Êe trebati nahraniti sva usta, a istodobno saËuvati prirodne izvore, pa Êe u Meunarodnoj godini πuma, najavljuju u UNFF-u, meu mnogim temama jedna od vaænih biti i tzv. agroπumarstvo.

Pod agroπumarstvom razumijeva se sadnja drveÊa na poljoprivrednim zemljiπtima, sjedinjavanje uzgoja usjeva, stoke i drveÊa, Ëime se omoguÊava raznovrsnija i uËinkovitija proizvodnja hrane, krmiva i gnojiva u ekoloπki prirodnijim uvjetima.

Na tragu toga holistiËkog pristupa odræivu razvoju joπ se davnih sedamdesetih godina naπla i nobelovka dr. Wangari Maathai, kenijska znanstvenica, sveuËiliπna profesorica i politiËarka, osnovavπi pokret Zeleni pojas sa sjediπtem u Nairobiju. U nastojanju da ublaæi posljedice uniπtavanja okoliπa zbog prekomjerne sjeËe πuma u Africi, Wangari Maathai je preko Zelenog pojasa organizirala sadnju 40,000.000 stabala razliËitih vrsta drveÊa.

Sadnja drveÊa na ogoljelim poljima Ëaja ili kave, na farmama, ali i izvan njih, vaæan je odgovor na drastiËno smanjivanje πumskih povrπina, ne samo radi ekonomskih razloga, kao dodatan izvor plodova i hrane, nego i radi spaπavanja ekoloπke ravnoteæe. RaËuna se da bi se investiranjem u agroπumarstvo sljedeÊih 50 godina iz atmosfere moglo ukloniti 50 milijardi tona ugljiËnog dioksida.

Svijest o vaænosti pluÊa Zemlje stoga ipak neprestano raste, a meunarodna godina

posveÊena πumi na simboliËnoj razini pokazuje nadu da Êe πume opet zapjevati punim pluÊima. Tako se i suvremena Hrvatska kao pokretaË ove meunarodne godine dokazala kao dostojna nasljednica Josipa Kozarca. n

F

orests sing the most beautifully was once said by the famous opera singer Ljiljana Molnar TalajiÊ. That simple, poetic sentence is perhaps the most beautiful description of the natural wealth which accounts for 31 percent of the earth’s surface, maintains 80 percent of the biological diversity on earth, and is home to 300,000,000 people. One third of that area is commercially exploited, and over one third are rainforests.

In 2004 alone, the forests produced crops and wood worth more than $327,000,000, and more than 1,600,000,000 people live from that production.

However, the forests seem to be singing less and less these days. In just the past 15 years, forests the size of all of Germany have silently vanished from the earth, which is enough of a reason for alarm and concern about the green lungs of the Earth which are finding it harder and harder to breathe. Half the world’s tropical and temperate forests are now gone. The rate of deforestation in the tropics continues at about an acre a second. About half the wetlands and a third of the sea salt resistant mangroves in the coastal areas are gone…, as written in the book The Bridge at the Edge of the World by author James Gustave Speth, the one-time dean of the School of Forestry and Environmental Studies at Yale University.

Will the ravaged forest take revenge on mankind like the degraded, pathetic and grey one in Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings? By conspiring against this environmentally friendly factory, mankind is also conspiring against itself, as we forget that forests regulate the climate, watershed areas and local hydrological systems, prevent soil erosion, have an effect on water and air quality, and make life on earth simply more beautiful.

This is why, in 2005, Croatia, as a member of the United Nations Forum on Forests (UNFF), launched the initiative for the International Year of Forests. By the UN General Assembly resolution (no. 61/193) on 20 December 2006, the year 2011 was declared the International Year of Forests. The Ministry of Regional Development, Forestry and Water Management stated that in this way they are showing regard for the forests’ ecological systems and their importance for the survival of the planet. In that symbolic way Croatia endeavours to increase its efforts to promote sustainable management CROATIA AIRLINES

147

of the forests, their development and conservation around the world.

The start of the International Year of the Forests was officially announced at the 9th session of the UNFF, which was held from 24 January to 4 February at the United Nations Headquarters in New York. During the session, the international umbrella organization for the forestry industry, which determines the directions of forestry at the global level and is made up of all the member states of the UN and specialized agencies, opened the photographic exhibition The Forest Through the Eyes of a Forester. This exhibition was created by Croatian authors and it portrays all the beauty and richness of Croatia’s forest wealth. The Croatian Forestry Society realized this project and it was organized at the UN by the Ministry of Regional Development, Forestry and Water Management. This interesting project was started by the Croatian Forestry Society ∑ Branch Office Bjelovar at the end of the 1990s, and at the time it was just a local amateur exhibition. Since then it has grown into an international salon, expanding beyond the Croatian borders.

In relation to the 800,000,000 hectares of forests in the Russian Federation and the 480,000,000 hectares in Brazil, or the 94.7 percent and 91.8 percent of territory that is covered by forests in Suriname and French Guiana, respectively, Croatia is quite small compared to the other member states of the UNFF. However, the attitude towards the invaluable natural wealth can not be measured in hectares alone; it is, therefore, not surprising that Croatia, a country with a 250 year tradition in the forestry profession and sciences, was the initiator of this action. Forests and woodlands in Croatia cover a total of 2,700,000 hectares or 48 percent of the continental area, have an abundance of diverse habitats and more than 60 different forest communities. They are known throughout the world for the natural composition of 95 percent of their area and for their great diversity in terms of plant and animal life, which is primarily the result of years of experience and sustainable management.

Even the great name of Croatian literature, Josip Kozarac, talked about the forestry traditions and knowledge. Here grow the venerable oak trees with their greyish bark, ravaged by the straight grooves that flow along the entire 20 meter high trunk..., is how he described the pride of every Slavonian in his novel Slavonska πuma (Slavonian Forests). This great writer and forestry expert wrote novels and short stories with the same passion as he wrote professional articles about rejuvenating the oak wood growing in the Sava Valley, the importance of forest 148

CROATIA AIRLINES

thinning, the infiltration of ash trees in Slavonia’s oak woods, and about the calculated value of felling oak trees. His discussions about forestry were known by forestry professionals in Western Europe and Russia.

In Kozarac’s literature, the lush Slavonian forest had almost a cult status, just as every tree in Dalmatia is revered, and every tree that burns down during the summer fires is deemed a tragedy. There are few countries that are so small in terms of area and yet boast such great forest diversity as Croatia, from the wealth of Gorski Kotar to the virgin forests of Mljet; from the beech and oak forests to the common hornbeam; from the fir and spruce to the pine trees; from commercial forests to national parks; from Mediterranean forests to rainforests. Almost 80 percent (2,000,000 hectares) of the forests are state-owned, while roughly 20 percent are in private hands.

The forestry and wood industry represent around 3.5 percent of the gross domestic product, employ 4.5 percent of the labour force and contribute 12 percent to export, mostly to Italy and Germany.

With the signing and ratification of international agreements, Croatia shows that it is serious about the sustainable management of the forests, sustainable production, environmental protection, and respecting the social value of the forests. As a result of this, the company Croatian Forests was awarded the prestigious certificate by the International Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) an independent, non-governmental and non-profit organization in charge of promotion and marking the International Year of Forests. The Republic of Croatia and Croatian foresters are ready to share their experiences and examples from their many years of practicing sustainable management.

The slogan for the International Year of Forests is Forests for People. The logo depicts a tree trunk with a tree top that is full of symbols which represent the forest as the custodian of climate stability, the source of biological diversity, food, drugs and drinking water. Throughout this year, in Croatia and around the world, there will be a number of actions and related manifestations, with the Ministry of Regional Development, Forestry and Water Management coordinating everything that Croatia will carry out, domestically and internationally. This is an opportunity to constantly remind people about the notorious truth that the lungs of the world can not be sacrificed in the long term for a short term profit. Forests are currently being brutally felled to allow for the expansion of agricultural land, the construction of highways, transmission lines and oil pipelines; an

imminent threat to forests is due to the plans to raise more crops for the production of biofeul.

They are being wiped out by catastrophic fires, such as the one in Russia last year, which are a consequence of incontrollable climates, and one of the causes of the climate running wild is the uncontrolled felling, and so we are just going around in circles. Consequently, forestry around the world stands to assume more of an ecological and protective role in the future, which will require adaptation by all institutions and parts of society that are directly or indirectly associated with forestry.

However, the international community is facing another great challenge. Demographers are predicting that within the next two decades the population will grow by more than 100,000,000 people a year. More than 95 percent of those people will be born in developing countries, areas already notorious for the lack of arable land and water. Thus, all of those mouths will need to be fed, while at the same natural resources will have to be preserved. Therefore, the UNFF announced that during the International Year of Forests one of the main topics will be so-called agroforestry. The term agroforestry implies planting trees on agricultural lands and combining the cultivation of crops, livestock and trees, thus enabling more diverse and effective production of food, fodder and fertilizer in ecologically natural conditions.

Nobel Prize winner Dr. Wangari Maathai, the Kenyan scientist, university professor and politician who founded the Green Belt Movement in Nairobi was the pioneer of this holistic approach to sustainable development already in the early 1970s. During her efforts to reduce the consequences of environmental destruction due to the excessive felling of the forests in Africa, Wangari Maathai harnessed the help of the Green Belt Movement and organized the planting of 40,000,000 different types of trees. The planting of trees on the barren tea and coffee fields, on farms and all around was an important response to the drastic decrease of the forests, inspired not only by economic reasons in terms of being an additional source of crops and food, but rather to protect the ecological balance. It has been calculated that by investing in agroforesty, 50 million tons of carbon dioxide could be eliminated from the atmosphere over the next 50 years.

Awareness of the importance of the earth’s lungs is constantly on the rise. By dedicating a year entirely to forestry, on a symbolic level this gives hope that the forests will once again sing with full lungs. In this way, modern Croatia, as a promoter of the international year, has shown due respect to the legacy of Josip Kozarac. n

CROATIA AIRLINES

149

S

jeÊanje na muku i uskrsnuÊe Kristovo obiljeæava se razliËitim obiËajima koji se razlikuju od mjesta do mjesta te predstavljaju tradiciju pojedinog kraja. U hrvatskim krajevima, a najizraæeniji su u vrijeme korizme, u razdoblju od 40 dana prije Uskrsa, koje poËinje »istom srijedom ili Pepelnicom.

Korizmu opÊenito oznaËava odreeno odricanje, post, i to obiËno petkom, a negdje i srijedom. »ista srijeda oduvijek oznaËava primirje, odnosno post i poËetak pokore, a 150

CROATIA AIRLINES

pravi je kontrast prethodnomu, razuzdanomu karnevalskom utorku. I danas se æene ponegdje u Dalmaciji dræe starih obiËaja pa u vrijeme korizme ne nose sveËanu odjeÊu, a post je obvezan.

Cvjetnica ∑ Maslinska nedjelja Vaænost i neizbrisivi uskrsni obiËaji najviπe dolaze do izraæaja u nedjelju prije Uskrsa, poznatu kao Cvjetnica ili Maslinska nedjelja.

Na Cvjetnicu u crkvu se nose maslinove granËice na blagoslov, a osobitost je toga

obiËaja u Dalmaciji pletenje listiÊa masline u oblik palme. Tako se nastoji oponaπati poznati obiËaj mahanja palminim listovima kad bi dolazio Isus. BuduÊi da u jadranskom podneblju palme nisu uobiËajene, u tu se svrhu najËeπÊe rabe granËice masline ili ruæmarina te cvijeÊe. Ali kronike grada Splita biljeæe da se nekad jedina gradska palma nalazila u vrtu pred kuÊom izvjesnoga SpliÊanina, gdje su se u vrijeme Uskrsa skupljali ljudi traæeÊi palmine grane.

BraËani su se pak snalazili na domiπljatiji naËin: oni bi unaprijed s otoka Visa, gdje palme dobro uspijevaju, dopremili palmine grane brodovima na svoj otok i podijelili ih. Ukraπavale su se kriæem ili vijencem naËinjenim od ukrasnih vrpci i cvijeÊa, a ta se vjeπtina veoma cijenila pa se jedna takva okiÊena grana razmjenjivala za sveËani uskrsni kruh i 20 raznobojnih jaja.

Na KorËuli i u okolici ©ibenika od maslinovih granËica izrauju se pletenice. Nekad je bilo obvezno blagoslovljenu maslinovu granu dræati u kuÊi, redovito pokraj slike nekog sveca, i to godinu dana, do sljedeÊe Cvjetnice. Nakon toga stara se granËica baca iskljuËivo u vatru, jer to je jedini naËin na koji se smiju uniπtavati blagoslovljeni predmeti. Na blagdan Cvjetnice ophodnjama s blagoslovljenim maslinovim i palminim granËicama krπÊani se prisjeÊaju slavnog ulaska Isusa Krista u Jeruzalem.

Prema povijesnom kazivanju, prije 2000 godina narod je doËekao Isusa te ga uveo u glavni grad kliËuÊi mu kao kralju. Kako Isus nije htio iskoristiti priliku koju je narod priæeljkivao, jer njegovo je kraljevstvo nebesko a ne zemaljsko, razoËarano se mnoπtvo, koje je oËekivalo da Êe ih povesti u borbu protiv Rimljana, od Krista ubrzo odvratilo i poduprlo njegove protivnike. Tako je Cvjetnica postala uvod u Isusovu muku. Zato je na blagdan Cvjetnice, uz blagoslov granËica, u srediπtu misnog slavlja upravo kazivanje Kristove muke.

U Vela Luci ponosno odræavaju tradiciju 40satnog klanjanja. Muπkarci, sveËano odjeveni, izmjenjuju se svakih sat vremena u klanjanju, molitvi i razgovoru s Isusom. Istodobno se mole Ëetvorica, a ukupno ih se izmijeni 160.

Bdijenje poËne toËno u podne na Cvjetnicu, a zavrπi u Veliku srijedu u 10 sati velikom procesijom oko crkve.

Od tiπine do buËenja Nakon Cvjetnice slijedi Veliki tjedan, koji zavrπava najveÊim krπÊanskim blagdanom Uskrsom. Najvaæniji su dani od Velikog Ëetvrtka do Velike subote i zato je njihovo obiljeæavanje vrlo znakovito i proæeto razliËitim obiËajima i procesijama. Na Veliki Ëetvrtak i dandanas se u Dalmaciji zadræao obiËaj vezivanja crkvenih zvona kako bi i zvona zaπutjela u spomen na Isusove muke. Himan Gloria in excelsis Deo (Slava Bogu na visini) pjeva se u obredima Velikoga Ëetvrtka i Velike subote i ujedno je i znak za zavezivanje i razvezivanje crkvenih zvona.

Zamiranje zvona izaziva u ljudima osobite osjeÊaje, πto ponajbolje opisuje u svojem romanu Rajmund Kupareo kada govori o obiËajima na otoku Hvaru. Na Gloriji sva zvona u crkvi i van crkve zazvoniπe iz punih pluÊa.

Zvone neprestano do ‘gratias agimus tibi’. A kad meπtar Proπpe zavrπi ‘Amen’ u fortissimu,

TRADICIJA TRADITIONS ■

Piše/By Davorka Pšenica Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

RazliËiti uskrsni obiËaji duboko su ukorijenjeni. U Dalmaciji gotovo svako mjesto ima svoje obiËaje i pojedinosti, a svi se oni temelje na tome da 40 dana korizme znaËi pokoru, pa u tom razdoblju nema i nije ni bilo pjesme ni bilo kakvoga drugog oblika zabave.

Different Easter customs are deeply rooted in the regions of Croatia.

Almost every town in Dalmatia has its own customs and peculiarities, all of which are based on the fact that the 40 days of Lent mean penance. Therefore, during that period there is no, and hasn’t been any singing or any other form of entertainment.

CROATIA AIRLINES

151

nastat Êe sjeta u srdcima, jer tog Ëasa zamiru orgulje i zvona. I zamrijet Êe za tri dana na spomen Isusova boravka u grobu. ©krbetaljka, ili po otoËku ‘πkripojka’, πkripat Êe drvenim zubima kao sablast. Remeta Êe njome obilaziti varoπ i pozivati ljude na svete obrede.

Kad zvona zaπute, pozivanje mjeπtana na svetu misu obavljalo se napravama zvanima klepetaljke ili Ëegrtaljke i taj se obiËaj zadræao do danaπnjih dana. Izrada klepetaljki najraπirenija je u srednjoj Dalmaciji i Konavlima. Naprave se razlikuju od kraja do kraja, a u Puntu na otoku Krku izgledaju ovako: na kraj oko 30 cm duge drvene daske πirine police za knjige privezuju se metalne ploËice koje, viseÊi o rubu, podizanjem i spuπtanjem klepetaljke, proizvode jak zvuk. U drugim su krajevima klepetaljku naËinili tako da bi na kraj drvene daske montirali mali kotaË πto je bio povezan s metalnim zupcima i udaraljkama koje bi, dok bi se prilikom voænje vrtjele, i klepetale.

U nekim mjestima po Dalmaciji mladiÊi idu kroz selo i zvone Ëegrtaljkama kako bi obavijestili mjeπtane o poËetku svete mise. Na Veliki petak kulminacija je muke Isusove pa tako i korizmenog posta, a obiËaj je bio da se niπta ne radi na zemlji, niπta se ne smije zaticati u zemlju. Neke su obitelji u svojim dvoriπtima Ëak postavljale daske, kako bi po njima hodali i tako neposredno ne doticali zemlju. Na Veliku subotu zvona se ponovno razvezuju i taj dan zvone intenzivnije, drukËije nego inaËe.

U mnogim dalmatinskim mjestima nerijetko je uobiËajeno Ëuvanje Boæjega groba, koji uglavnom Ëuvaju takozvani straæari, ljudi u osobitim, za tu prigodu napravljenim odorama. No, ipak, najzanimljivije su razliËite procesije koje redovito okupljaju mnoπtvo vjernika, a odvijaju se u noÊi s Velikog Ëetvrtka na Veliki petak, koji je ujedno i kulminacija posta.

Hvarska procesija Za Kriæem Najpoznatija je tradicionalna hvarska procesija Za Kriæem, koja je jedan od sedam fenomena hrvatske kulturne baπtine, nedavno uvrπtenih na Unescovu listu nematerijalne svjetske kulturne baπtine. Tom procesijom Hvarani veÊ punih pet stoljeÊa na osobit naËin proslavljaju Uskrs. RijeË je o jedinstvenom obredu velike poboænosti te izrazu vjerskoga i kulturnog identiteta stanovnika srediπnjeg dijela otoka Hvara, koji se razvio iz procesije πto se odræala kao znak pokajanja poπto je, u jeku druπtvenih previranja na otoku 1510. godine, uoËi bune hvarskih puËana, mali kriæ u gradu Hvaru Ëudom proplakao krvavim suzama.

Procesije kreÊu u noÊi s Velikog Ëetvrtka na Veliki Petak iz πest æupnih crkava Jelse, Pitve, Vrisnika, SvirËa, Vrbnja i Vrboske, i to istodobno u smjeru kazaljke na satu tako da se tijekom osmosatnog trajanja procesije kriæevi 152

CROATIA AIRLINES

nikada ne sretnu, πto bi, prema narodnom vjerovanju, bio znak velike nesreÊe. Put koji vodi od crkve do crkve osvjetljava se svjetiljkama i spuævama namoËenima u parafinsko ulje, a na prozore kuÊa stavljaju se svijeÊe. Procesiju predvode odabrani kriæonoπe, koji nose kriæ teæak do 18 kilograma, katkad bosonogi, odjeveni u bijele tunike, kao i ostali Ëlanovi bratovπtine. Kriæonoπe slijedi izabrana pratnja u bratimskim tunikama te mnoπtvo vjernika i hodoËasnika, zaustavljaju se u crkvama i kapelicama ostalih mjesta, gdje ih doËekuju sveÊenici, a pred jutro vraÊaju se u svoju æupsku crkvu.

Procesija je osobita po trajanju, jer tijekom osam sati proe se 25 kilometara, i po naglaπenom pasionskom sadræaju, pripremaju je i provode bratovπtine, odnosno zajednice hvarskih vjernika, u Ëiju je povijest i æivot kriæ duboko upisan. Okosnica je procesije Gospin plaË, osmeraËki pasionski tekst iz 15. stoljeÊa, koji u obliku glazbenog dijaloga pjevaju izabrani pjevaËi, kantaduri.

Dobro je piti crno vino ObiËaji nalaæu da je na Veliki petak dobro popiti πto viπe crnog vina, jer vjeruje se kako upravo crno vino jaËa krv i ozdravljuje tijelo.

Naime, nekada se vjerovalo da se vino u tijelu pretvara u krv te je za Uskrs bilo poæeljno popiti ga πto viπe i okrijepiti se Ëim bolje. Na blagdanskome se stolu zato vina nalazilo u izobilju, a pilo se, dakako, bez vode. Zapisi s otoka BraËa kaæu da su kuÊanice, meu ostalim uskrsnim jelima, pripremale bakalar i zelje, jela πto izazivaju æe, kako bi gosti i domaÊi mogli popiti πto viπe. Zabiljeæeno je kako je neki BraËanin na uskrsnoj svetkovini popio Ëak 10 litara Ëistoga vina!

Uskrs je vrijeme kad, nakon korizme, ponovno poËinje æivot i veselje. Prijaπnjih godina ljudi bi na Uskrs opet poËeli igrati kola, veseliti se i pjevati. Tako je cijeli tjedan nakon Uskrsa, sve do nedjelje, odnosno malog Uskrsa, bio rezerviran za ponovno igranje u kolu i kuπavanje uskrsnih pogaËa.

Umivanje u laticama cvjeÊa Na Veliku subotu priprema se hrana za blagoslov, a u Dalmaciji to je uvijek bila pogaËa za sve ukuÊane, ispeËena u kruπnoj peÊi, te za djecu pletenica ukraπena jajetom. Na taj se dan u crkvi obiljeæavao blagoslov vatre i vode, pa su ljudi koji bi doπli na misu simboliËno umivali lice vodom. U pojedinim krajevima DubrovaËkog primorja i Konavlima jos postoji obiËaj umivanja na Veliku subotu. Na otoËiÊu Lopudu pokraj Dubrovnika, na Veliku subotu, u 11 sati, poπto zvoni glorija, smatra se da je Isus uskrsnuo. ObiËaj je umivanje u lavoru s laticama cvijeÊa kako bi lice bilo svjeæe i lijepo.

Uskrsne pisanice Na Veliku se subotu kuhaju, boje i πaraju jaja. To je najrasprostranjenija i najpoznatija uskrsna tradicija diljem Europe i ujedno simbol najveÊega katoliËkog blagdana Uskrsa, blagdana æivota, plodnosti i obilja. Bojenje i ukraπavanje jaja poznavali su joπ stari Germani, Slaveni, pa onda i Hrvati. Dakako, prije nije bilo umjetnih boja, pa su se ljudi snalazili na druge naËine. NajËeπÊe boje uskrsnih jaja bile su razliËiti tonovi crvene, æute i smee boje, koje su se spravljale od razliËitih trava, cvijeÊa i kore drveta. Jedan od najsigurnijih i najjednostavnijih postupaka bojenja jaja jest onaj s pomoÊu ljuske od luke. Jaja se kuhaju dvadesetak minuta u vreloj vodi u koju se dodaje malo octa i æliËica soli (da ne puknu), zajedno s ljuskom od luka, kako bi poprimila crvenkastu, odnosno svijetlosmeu boju.

Zatim se namaæu slaninom kako bi dobila odgovarajuÊi sjaj.

Jaja se ukraπavaju i tako da se, tvrdokuhana, malo ohlade, oblijepe manjim, ovlaæenim listiÊima djeteline, listovima mrkve ili laticama kakva cvijeÊa, te umotaju u tanku æensku Ëarapu i ostave u boji desetak minuta. Nakon toga posuπe se i namaæu slaninom kako bi dobila visoki sjaj, a na njima ostanu lijepi i vidljivi cvjetni motivi. Uz posvuda poznato ukraπavanje s pomoÊu voska, Ëeste su i druge tehnike ukraπavanja te izrada ornamenata. Jaje je simbol cikliËke obnove prirode i ponovnog raanja te se u krπÊanstvu smatra simbolom novog æivota, pa otuda obiËaj ukraπavanja jaja.

MoÊ blagoslovljenih jela Osobita je draæ Uskrsa jutarnji blagoslov jela, stara crkvena i puËka tradicija. Na Veliku subotu ili u rano jutro na Uskrs, prema crkvi hita mnoπtvo ljudi koji u koπarama nose jelo.

U koπaru se najprije stavi ubrus, a zatim hrana koja se pokrije ukrasnom krpom, tzv. stolnicom. Od hrane se obiËno nosi: πunka, jaja, vino ili rakija, hren, luk, sol i pogaËa, odnosno komad sirnice. Ovisno o kraju, neki blagoslove sve πto su pripremili, a neki samo neπto. Dakle, za doruËak se uz obvezatno sluæenje sirnice blaguje πunka, kuhana jaja, luk i hren. Kako je moÊ blagoslova jela velika, pokazuje podatak da se nekad Ëak ni mrvice od pogaËe, kruha, ljuske od jaja, kao i ostaci jela koji se nisu pojeli, nisu smjeli baciti, nego su se zakopavali u zemlju ili pak spalili. Uz taj su obiËaj vezana mnoga narodna vjerovanja i praznovjerja.

Blagdanski stol Uskrs u Dalmaciji nezamisliv je bez uskrsnog kruha sirnice, slastice koja na blagdanskom stolu zauzima glavno mjesto, i to zbog viπe razloga. Uz to πto dokazuje privræenost domaÊina i njegove obitelji krπÊanskim vrijed-

nostima, sirnice na blagdanskom stolu daju i osobit peËat poπtivanju stoljetne tradicije koja se vezuje uz uskrsno vrijeme i svetkovanje toga najveÊega katoliËkog blagdana. Sirnica je ujedno i ispit umjeπnosti svake kuÊanice jer prava je sveËanost za oËi i nepce ako je izaπla iz kuÊne peÊnice i ako je pripremljena prema starim, prokuπanim receptima koji se neprekidno prenose s jednoga naraπtaja na drugi. Blagoslovljene su sirnice prvo jelo koje se nakon korizmena odricanja stavlja na blagdanski stol. Ondje Êe ostati i u vrijeme ruËka pripremljenoga prema starim receptima, koji uskrsni objed vezuju s biblijskim motivima blagovanja janjeÊeg mesa.

Tradicionalni uskrsni objed u Dalmaciji poËinje janjeÊom juhom, koju nijedna domaÊica, dræi li do uskrsne gastronomske tradicije, neÊe izostaviti. Nakon juhe posluæuju se crivca ili janjeÊe tripice, a uz njih, ili umjesto njih, moæe se posluæiti i mladi ovËji sir. Tu su i πparoge s tvrdokuhanim jajima, jelo koje je nekad u Dalmaciji bila spiza za sirotinju. Danas su πparoge vrhunska delicija te se i one mogu naÊi na uskrsnom jelovniku.

Srediπnji je dio uskrsnoga ruËka peËena janjetina s mladim krumpirima, uz koju se posluæuje salata i mladi luk. Na kraju se posluæuju raznovrsni kolaËiÊi, a tu je i neizostavna sveËana torta. Dakako, umjesto mesa na blagdanskom stolu najbolja je zamjena riba, i to ona najfinija, zubatac, πanpjer, komarËa ili lubin. Po hotelima diljem dalmatinske obale za uskrsnih blagdana gurmanska je ponuda obilna pa gosti imaju priliku uæivati u dalmatinskome uskrsnom ruËku poput ovoga koji je na jelovniku jednoga hvarskog hotela.

U ponudi je: 1/2 l domaÊeg vina po izboru, kuhana πunka, jaja, mlada kapulica, namaz od svjeæeg sira i prπuta, a za glavno jelo nudi se paπticada s domaÊim njokima.

Uza sirnicu, domaÊice Êe servirati joπ jednu dalmatinsku poslasticu: svjeæi, mekani albuminski sir, tzv. skutu, koja se dobiva iz obranoga ili punoga ovËjeg mlijeka. Joπ se naziva πkuta i pujina ili puina, kako tu finu deliciju zovu na otoku Pagu. Sve poËinje i zavrπava sirnicama, uz koje se uobiËajeno nudi proπek.

Tradicija nalaæe da se kriπka sirnice moËi u Ëaπu proπeka, a zatim tako namoËena jede.

DomaÊi proπek i sirnice zadnje su πto ostaje na uskrsnom stolu, koji je u Dalmaciji oËuvao tradiciju i prepoznatljivost.

Recept za izradu puine (skute) s otoka Silbe Skuta se na otoku Silbi proizvodi na sljedeÊi naËin: na oko 10 litara sirutke stavi se πaka soli. Grije se na laganoj vatri i povremeno mijeπa. Kod 76 °C na povrπini sirutke poËnu se hvatati sitne pahuljice. S poveÊanjem CROATIA AIRLINES

153

temperature albumin se sve viπe koagulira i stvara gustu smjesu, koja na sebi nosi pjenu.

Kod 97 °C skuta se poËne lomiti i tada se reπetka s vatrom povuËe. Nakon nekoliko minuta skuta se vadi u lonac velikom ælicom s rupicama. U isti lonac dolije se joπ 2 do 3 l skuhanog mlijeka, sve dobro izmijeπa i vadi u tanke krpe. »itav postupak oko izrade skute traje oko jedan sat. Krpe sa skutom objese se za petlje da se skuta cijedi 6 do 8 sati. Pri izradi skute od kravlje se sirutke redovito, a iz ovËje rijetko, sirutka ostavi da se zakiseli ili se u nju ulije veÊ zakiseljena.

U Dalmaciji se skuta izrauje uglavnom bez kiseljenja. Takoer u Dalmaciji nije uobiËajeno vaenje skute u dvije faze, gdje se kod druge faze doda kisela sirutka i pojaËa grijanje. Za produkt prve faze postoji u Italiji izraz fiorito, a u Bugarskoj otvara, a za drugi proizvod mascarpa (mascherpa) odnosno izvara. Gotova je skuta okrugla, cijedi se u krpi i bijele je boje sa slabim prijelazom na sivkastoæuto. Na presjeku se vide sitne pukotine. Tako je mekana da se moæe mazati na kruh, ali na nj teπko prianja.

U ustima se lako raspada i topi, a okusa je slatkastoga i specifiËnoga na ovËje mlijeko.

Takoer se upotrebljava za izradu kolaËa. Ne moæe li se potroπiti kao svjeæa, stavlja se u stapu u maslac. Od nje se moæe takoer praviti sir manur, kao πto je to obiËaj u nekim naπim krajevima. (Recept opisan prema: http://www.agroklub.com/stocarstvo) Dalmatinska sirnica Sirnica, pinca ili uskrsna pogaËa tradicionalan je uskrsni kruh koji se nosi na blagoslov i daruje gostima kao znak dobrih æelja.

Priredite: 1 kg braπna, 5 dag kvasca, 25 dag mladog kravljeg sira, 25 dag πeÊera, 16 dag maslaca, 10 jaja, 1/4 litre mlijeka, koricu limuna i naranËe, ælicu ruma, ælicu maraskina Prosijte braπno, u njemu izdubite rupu i u nju ulijte ulje i rastopljeni kvasac sa ælicom πeÊera.

Kvasac dolijte tek poπto se uzdigne u odvojenoj posudici. Od dobivene smjese zamijesite kruh i ostavite prekriven da stoji preko noÊi.

Ujutro izmijeπajte sir i maslac sa πeÊerom, dodajte jedno po jedno æumance, malo soli, ruma, maraskina, mlijeko koje ste smlaËili, i na kraju naribanu koricu agruma. Sve dobro mijeπajte i na kraju dodajte snijeg od pet bjelanjaca (pet žumanaca veÊ ste upotrijebili prije). Tu smjesu dodajte uzdignutom kruhu, dobro umijesite jedno u drugo dok ne dobijete kompaktno tijesto, koje Êete odloæiti na toplo mjesto da raste tri do Ëetiri sata. Nakon toga razlijte ga na dijelove od oko 1/4 kilograma teæine svaki pojedinaËno, opet dobro umijesite i ponovno stavite 2-3 sata na toplo mjesto.

Kad su se veÊ dovoljno uzdigli, noæem na gornjoj strani naËinite znak trokrake zvijezde, 154

CROATIA AIRLINES

sliËno znaku mercedesa. Premaæite ih tuËenim æumancem i pecite na umjerenoj temperaturi dok ne dobiju tamnorumenu boju.

Uskrsne pince poznate su po karakteristiËnom okusu i dugo ostaju svjeæe. Mogu se posluæiti u kombinaciji s narezanom πunkom i tvrdokuhanim jajima, te uz ribani hren i mladi luk.

(Recept: http://www.stari-grad-faros.hr/ svasta/recept.htm) n

R

emembering Christ’s suffering and resurrection is celebrated with various customs which differ from place to place and represent the traditions of each region. They are the most pronounced during the period of Lent, the 40 days preceding Easter which begins on Ash Wednesday.

Lent is generally marked by a degree of selfdeprivation or self-denial of certain foods - fasting, which is usually done on Fridays and on Wednesdays in some areas. Ash Wednesday has always signified peace and reconciliation, that is, fasting and the start of penance, which are in direct contrast with the previous, riotous Shrove Tuesday. Even today, women in some parts of Dalmatia strongly keep to the old customs and do not wear festive clothing during Lent, not to mention that for them fasting is mandatory.

Palm ∑ Olive Sunday The importance and the immortality of Easter traditions reach their peak on the Sunday before Easter, known as Palm or Olive Sunday.

On Palm Sunday people bring olive branches to church to be blessed, and in Dalmatia that tradition is even more particular as people braid olive leaves in the shape of palms. In this way they try to imitate the well known tradition of waving palm leaves when Jesus would come. Since palms are not common in the Adriatic climate, they most often use the twigs of olive trees or rosemary or even flowers. It is even written in the journals of the city of Split that at one time the city’s only palm tree was located in the garden in front of the house of a certain man from Split, and so people gathered there during Easter time in search of palm branches.

The inhabitants of the island of BraË found an ingenious solution: since palms thrived on the island of Vis, they organized for palm branches to be delivered to their island by boat and they would share them. They adorned them with crosses or wreaths that they made with decorative ribbons and flowers. This craft was so highly appreciated that one such ornate branch could be exchanged for festive Easter bread and 20 coloured eggs. On KorËula and around ©ibenik people made braids from the olive branches. At one time it was manda-

tory to keep the blessed olive branch in your house right next to a picture of a saint, and to keep it there throughout the entire year until the following Palm Sunday. You were able to dispose of the branch only by throwing it in a fire because that was the only way you could destroy a blessed item. On Palm Sunday, joining processions with blessed olive and palm leaves, Christians remember the famous arrival of Jesus Christ in Jerusalem.

According to historical narrations, more than 2000 years ago, the people welcomed Jesus and brought him in to the capital, bowing to him as if he were a king. Since Jesus did not want to use the opportunity that the people had wished for, since his kingdom was heavenly and not earthly, he disappointed the crowd who had expected him to take them into battle against the Romans. Discouraged

by Jesus, they soon turned on him and supported his enemies. As a result, Palm Sunday became an introduction to Jesus’ suffering.

In Vela Luka they have proudly kept their tradition of 40 hours of bowing. Every hour men dressed in festive clothing take turns bowing, praying and talking to Jesus. Four men pray at one time, and in total there are 160 of them. The wake starts exactly at noon on Palm Sunday and ends on Spy Wednesday at 10 o’clock with a great procession around the church.

From silence to noise Palm Sunday is followed by Holy Week, which concludes with the greatest Christian holiday, Easter. The most important days are from Holy Thursday to Holy Saturday, therefore the celebrations of those days are very meaningful and full of various traditions and processions. On Holy Thursday, even today, the Dalmatians have kept the tradition of tying the church bells together so that they are silent in honour of Jesus’ suffering. The hymn Gloria in Excelsis (Glory to God in the Highest) is sung during ceremonies on Holy Thursday and Holy Saturday, and at the same time it is a symbol of the tying and untying of the bells of the church. The dying of the sound of the bells evokes special feelings in the people, which was best described in the novel by Rajmund Kupareo when he wrote about the customs on the island of Hvar. When they sing the word Gloria, all of the bells in and outside of the church ring with full force. The bells don’t stop ringing until ‘gratias agimus tibi’.

When master Proπpe concludes with ‘Amen’ in fortissimo, a sadness arises in everyone’s chest because at that moment the organs and bells fall silent. They remain silent for three days in memory of Jesus’ stay in the tomb.

The ratchet will rattle its wooden teeth like a

ghost. The town cryer will walk around and call people to church services.

When the bells are silenced, the villagers are invited to holy mass by way of a device called a klepetaljke (rattle) or Ëegrtaljke (clapper), and that tradition is still practised today. The making of the rattles is a custom most widely spread in Central Dalmatia and the Konavle region. They are made differently from area to area, and in the village of Punta on the island of Krk they are made as follows: on the end of a 30 cm long wooden board, about the width of a bookshelf, metal plates are attached which hang over the edge, and when they are raised and lowered they rattle together producing a loud noise. In other regions the rattles were made in the way that a small wheel was attached to the end of a wooden board, and connected to the wheel were metal prongs and clappers that would rattle when the wheel was spinning.

In some villages throughout Dalmatia the young men would go through the village and ring the clappers in order to inform the villagers that holy mass was about to begin. Good Friday is the culmination of Jesus’ suffering, as well as the Lenten fast, and the tradition was that you could not work in the fields, that you were not permitted to plant anything in the soil. Some families would even place boards in their yards so that they could walk on them and not come in contact with the soil. On Holy Saturday the bells were untied again and they rang intensively, like no other day.

In many Dalmatian villages it is not an uncommon custom to guard the grave of God, which was mostly protected by the so-called guards, people in special costumes that were made for that purpose. However, most interesting are the various processions that regularly gather many believers, and which take place during the night between Holy Thursday and Good Friday, which is also the culmination of the fast.

Hvar’s Following the Cross procession The most famous tradition is Hvar’s Following the Cross procession, which is one of seven phenomena of Croatia’s cultural heritage, and it was recently put on the UNESCO World Intangible Cultural Heritage List. For five centuries, the inhabitants of Hvar have been celebrating Easter in this very special way. It is a unique ceremony of great piety and an expression of the religious and cultural identity of the inhabitants of the central part of the island of Hvar, which developed from a procession that was first held as a sign of repentance after a small crucifix in the town of Hvar miraculously started to bleed tears in the midst of social unrest on the island

in 1510 and before the uprising of the Hvar commoners.

The processions start in the night from Holy Thursday to Good Friday from six parochial churches of Jelsa, Pitva, Vrisnik, SviraË, Vrbanj and Vrboska, simultaneously and clockwise so that during the eight hours of the procession the crucifixes never meet, which, according to belief, would be extremely bad luck. The path leading from church to church is lit with lamps and sponges drenched in paraffin oil, and people put candles in their windows. The processions are led by chosen cross-bearers who carry crucifixes of up to 18 kilograms, sometimes barefoot, wearing white tunics, like other members of the fraternity.

The cross-bearers are followed by a chosen entourage in fraternity tunics and numerous believers and pilgrims who stop in churches and chapels of the other towns where they are met by priests, and they return to their own parochial churches before the morning.

The procession is exceptional for how long it lasts, as 25 kilometres are crossed during the eight hours, and for its emphatic passion contents. It is prepared and carried out by fraternities, groups of Hvar believers in whose history and lives the crucifix has left a deep mark. The central part of the procession is the Gospin plaË (the Weeping of the Lady), a religious text in 8-syllable verse from the 15th century, performed as a musical dialogue by chosen singers, the ‘kantadurs’.

It is good to drink red wine As the custom goes, on Good Friday the more red wine you drink the better it is for you because people believe that red wine strengthens the blood and heals the body.

In fact, long ago it was believed that wine in the body turned into blood, and so at Easter it was advisable to drink plenty and invigorate yourself as much as possible. For this reason wine is found in abundance on the holiday table, and it is drunk, of course, without water.

Records from the island of BraË have said that housewives, along with the other Easter foods, also prepared cod fish and cabbage, foods which made you thirsty, so that the guests and hosts would drink as much as possible. It is recorded that an inhabitant of BraË drank 10 litres of undiluted wine at an Easter feast!

After the period of Lent, Easter is the time to once again start to live and enjoy. In the past people would again start to dance the traditional kolo, have a good time and sing on Easter. The entire week after Easter, until the following Sunday, that is until Low Sunday, would be reserved for dancing the kolo and tasting Easter bread.

Washing one’s face in flower petals On Holy Saturday you prepare the food that will be blessed, and in Dalmatia that has always been Easter bread for everyone, which is baked in an oven, and for the kids it is braided and decorated with eggs. In church on that day they celebrate the blessing of fire and water, and the people who come to mass symbolically wash their faces with water. In some area of Dubrovnik Littoral and Konavle the ritual face washing on Holy Saturday still exists. At 11 o’clock on Holy Saturday on the island of Lopud near Dubrovnik, when the bells ring Gloria, this means that Jesus has risen. The custom of washing one’s face in a basin with flower petals is supposed to make your face appear fresh and beautiful.

Easter Eggs On Holy Saturday, the eggs are boiled, dyed and decorated. This is the most widely spread and well known Easter tradition all around Europe and at the same time a symbol of the greatest Catholic holiday, Easter, the holiday of life, fertility and plenitude. The colouring and decorating of eggs was first known by the ancient Germans, the Slavs, and then the Croats. Normally, there were no artificial colours before, so the people had to make do in other ways. Most often Easter eggs were dyed in various shades of red, yellow and brown, which were prepared from different grasses, flowers and tree barks. One of the surest and simplest approaches to colouring eggs was by using an onion peel. The eggs were cooked for twenty minutes in boiling water in which a little vinegar was added and a teaspoon of salt (so they would not crack), together with an onion peel so that they would take some of the reddish colour, actually the light brown colour. Then they were rubbed with bacon in order to get the appropriate lustre.

Another method of decorating Easter eggs is to let the hard-boiled eggs cool a little and then coat them with small, damp clover leaves, carrot leaves or flower petals, and then they were wrapped in women’s thin stockings and left in the colour for about ten minutes.

After that they were dried and rubbed with bacon so they would be shiny, and on them remained the beautiful and visible flower motifs. In addition to the well known methods of decorating with wax, there are other decorating techniques and ways of making ornaments. Eggs are a symbol of the cyclical renewal of nature and procreation, as well as a symbol of new life in the Christian belief, and so we have the tradition of decorating eggs.

Power of blessed food The blessing of food during the morning service is an old church and folk tradition CROATIA AIRLINES

155

that makes Easter especially charming. On Holy Saturday or early in the morning on Easter Sunday crowds of people head off to church carrying baskets of food. The first thing they put in the basket is a napkin, and then the food which is covered with a decorative cloth, the so-called stolnica. The foods that are customary to bring include: ham, eggs, wine or brandy, horseradish, onions, salt and pogaËa (Easter bread), that is, a slice of sirnica.

Depending on the region, some people have everything they prepared blessed, while others only have a few things blessed. Therefore, along with the mandatory serving of sirnica, they also eat ham, hard-boiled eggs, onions and horseradish for breakfast. The power of the blessed food is shown by the fact that you are not allowed to throw out even a crumb of pogaËa or bread, the egg shells, or any other leftovers. Rather, these must be buried in the ground or even burned. Many beliefs and superstitions are connected with that custom.

Holiday table It would be unimaginable to have Easter in Dalmatia without the Easter bread sirnica, a dessert which for many reasons is the main part of the holiday table. Besides demonstrating the host and his family’s dedication to Christian values, sirnica on the holiday table is a distinct show of respect for the centuries of traditions which are associated with Easter time and the festivities of the most important Catholic holiday. At the same time, sirnica is like a test of every housewife’s skills, as it is a celebration for the eyes and the palate if it comes out of her own oven and if it is prepared according to the old, well-tried recipes that have been continually passed down from one generation to the next. The blessed sirnica is the first food that is put on the holiday table after the period of Lent. It remains on the table all throughout lunch, which is also prepared according to old recipes and is tied to the biblical motifs of eating lamb meat.

The traditional Easter meal in Dalmatia starts with lamb soup, which no housewife who adheres to the Easter gastronomic traditions would ever omit. After the soup comes crivca or lamb tripe, and served along with the tripe or in place of it is cheese from sheep’s milk. On the Easter table you may also find asparagus with hard boiled eggs, a meal that at one time in Dalmatia was grub for the poor, but today is considered a delicacy.

The main course of Easter lunch includes roasted lamb and young potatoes, which are also served with salad and spring onions. The meal ends with the serving of various cookies, and always a festive cake. Of course, sometimes instead of having meat on the holiday 156

CROATIA AIRLINES

table the best substitute is fish, especially the finest fish, such as common dentex, St. Peter’s fish, gilt-head sea bream or sea bass.

In the hotels along the Dalmatian coast you will find that the gourmet offers for the Easter holiday are quite abundant. Guests have the opportunity to enjoy Dalmatian Easter lunch, such as this one from a menu in one of Hvar’s hotels: 1/2 litre of domestic wine, boiled ham, eggs, spring onions, fresh cheese spread and prosciutto, and paπticada (marinated steak) with homemade gnocchi for the main course.

Along with the sirnica, housewives will serve another Dalmatian dessert: fresh, soft ricotta cheese, the so-called skuta, which is made from skimmed or whole sheep’s milk. Other names for this are πkuta or pujina or puina, the name for this fine delicacy on the island of Pag. Everything starts and ends with sirnica, and it is customary to serve it with prosecco. As the tradition goes, a slice of sirnica is soaked in a glass of prosecco and then eaten. Homemade prosecco and sirnica are the last things that remain on the Easter table, which remains a tradition typical of Dalmatia.

Recipe for puine (skuta) from the island of Silba On the island of Silba skuta is prepared in the following way: add a handful of salt to roughly 10 litres of whey. Heat it over a low fire, mixing occasionally. When it reaches 76°C small flakes will begin to form on the surface of the whey. As the temperature increases the ricotta will coagulate more and more and form a thick mixture, on which froth will appear. At 97°C the skuta will start to break up and then you remove it from the fire. After a few minutes, using a large slated spoon, scoop the skuta into a pot.

Add 2 to 3 litres of boiled milk to that pot, mix everything well and scoop it into a thin cloth.

The entire process of making skuta lasts about one hour. Hang the cloth with the skuta and allow it to drain for 6 to 8 hours. When making the skuta from cow’s milk, unlike when using sheep’s milk, the whey is left to become sour or it is added to the mixture already soured.

In Dalmatia skuta is usually made without acid. It is also not customary in Dalmatia to scoop out the skuta in two phases, where in the second phase you add acid to the whey and increase the temperature. The product that is made by doing only the first step exists in Italy and is called fiorito, and in Bulgaria it is called otvara. The second product is called mascarpa (mascherpa), in Italian and Bulgarian, respectively. The finished skuta is shaped into a ball, drained in a cloth and is white or greyish-yellow in colour. Fine cracks can be seen on a cross-section. It is soft enough to spread on bread, but it will not stick well. It

easily falls apart and melts in your mouth, and the taste is sweet with a distinct taste of sheep’s milk. It is also used to make cakes.

If there is too much to use fresh, it is used to churn butter. You can also use it to make manur cheese, which is the custom in some of our regions. (Recipe came from: http://www.agroklub.com/stocarstvo) Dalmatian sirnica Sirnica, pinca or Easter pogaËa is traditional Easter bread which is blessed and then given to guests as a sign of good wishes.

Ingredients: 1 kg flour, 5 dag yeast, 25 dag young cow’s cheese, 25 dag sugar, 16 dag butter, 10 eggs, 1/4 litre milk, lemon and orange zest, tablespoon rum, tablespoon maraschino, cherry brandy Sift the flour, make a hole in the centre and add oil and the dissolved yeast with a tablespoon of sugar. Add the yeast after it has already risen in a separate bowl. Knead the mixture and leave it covered overnight. In the morning combine the cheese and the butter with the sugar, add egg yolks one by one, a little salt, rum, maraschino cherry brandy, warm milk, and at the end add the lemon and orange zests. Add this mixture to the risen dough, knead them together well until you have a compact dough, which you then leave in a warm place to rise for 3-4 hours. After that, break the dough into parts, each piece about 1/4 kilogram in weight, knead each of them well a second time and again leave them for 2-3 hours in a warm place. When the dough has risen enough, use a knife to make a threesided star on the top of the loaves, similar to the logo for Mercedes. Brush this with beaten yolks and bake it at a medium temperature until the loaves turn a dark reddish colour.

Easter pinca is known for its characteristic taste and the fact that it can stay fresh for a long time. You can serve it with sliced ham and hard boiled eggs, as well as grated horseradish and spring onions.

(Recipe: http://www.stari-grad-faros.hr/svasta/ recept.htm) n

CROATIA AIRLINES

157

VodiË za dobar tek

Gourmet guide

Gil’s Cuisine & Pop Lounge Dopustite nam da vam s velikim zadovoljstvom predstavimo Gil’s Cuisine & Pop Lounge. Æelja nam je ponuditi i pribliæiti Vam inovativniji, drukËiji jelovnik, elegantan lounge bar sa spektakularnim pogledom na more, vrhunsku uslugu i ugoaj koji se teπko zamjenjuje.Restoran nudi modernu francusku kuhinju i izvanredan vinski podrum. Gil’s Cuisine & Pop Lounge ponosan je nositelj 17 Gault Millau bodova, priznatoga meunarodnog vodiËa za gastronomiju.Iskusite visoku kuhinju u njezinu najzanimljivijem izdanju i izgubite se u mnoπtvu osjetila.

It is with pleasure our team presents to you Gil’s Cuisine & Pop Lounge. Our restaurant and lounge bar brings to you an innovative, delicious menu, a stylish sea view lounge bar and terrace, top service and first class ambiance.The restaurant offers modern French fusion cuisine and an extensive wine and digestive menu. Gil’s Cuisine & Pop Lounge are proud to anounce the 17 points awarded to them by the internationally recognised gourmet guide, Gault Millau 2011. Experience Haute Cuisine at its funkiest and lose yourself in sensory pleasure.

Informacije i rezervacije / Information and reservations: Sv. Dominika bb, 20000 Dubrovnik, tel. 020 322 222, www.gilsdubrovnik.com

Amoret DesetljeÊe duga tradicija dobar je razlog za posjet restoranu Amoret. Doite u poËetku svog boravka u Dubrovniku sigurno Êete se htjeti vratiti. UæivajuÊi u ukusnom obroku, uæivat Êete i u prekrasnom pogledu na jednu od najpoznatijih veduta staroga grada Dubrovnika, na prekrasnu baroknu katedralu. VeËera uza svijeÊe I akustiËnu glazbu uËinit Êe ambijent joπ Ëarobnijim a vaπ posjet osobitim i neponovljivim doæivljajem.

With its decade long tradition, Amoret is a place best visited at the beginning of your stay in Dubrovnik. After all, you will be looking to come back. Located next to one of Dubrovnik’s most famous sights, Baroque style Cathedral, Restaurant Amoret offers a chance to enjoy a wonderful view while enjoying your meal. Evening dining accompanied by candle light and live acoustic music makes the scenery even more magical, and your visit a very special experience.

Informacije i rezervacije / Information and reservations: Od Pustjerne bb, 20000 Dubrovnik , tel. 020 323 739, 099 2121751, e-mail abitanga@gmail.com

Stakehouse Domino Steakhouse Domino veÊ 30 godina ugoπÊuje svoje posjetitelje unutar starih gradskih zidina Dubrovnika. Nagraen domaÊim i meunarodnim priznanjima, restoran nudi razna steak jela kao i dalmatinske specijalitete riba i morskih plodova.

Uz klimatizirani restoran, gosti mogu uæivati u kulinarkim delicijama i na prostranoj ljetnoj terasi.

Steakhouse Domino has welcome its guests for 30 years inside the old city walls of Dubrovnik. The restaurant, which has received local and international awards, offers a variety of steak entrees as well as dalmatian fish and sea food. In addition to the air-conditioned restaurant, guests can enjoy culinary delights on a spacious summer terrace.

Informacije i rezervacije / Information and reservations: Ulica od Domina 3, 20000 Dubrovnik, tel. 020 323 103 , www.steakhousedomino.com, domino@du.t-com.hr

Restaurant Republica Poslovno ili privatno, doruËak, ruËak ili veËera, Restaurant Republica mjesto je koje Êe vas svakim novim dolaskom iznova oduπeviti! Naπ osobni izazov je uljepπati Vam æivot kroz maštoviti izbor jela originalnih receptura i vrhunske kvalitete na naËin da Vam nahranimo sva osjetila i potaknemo emocije.

For business or pleasure, for breakfast, lunch or dinner, Restaurant Republica is a place that will enchant you every time you visit! Our personal challenge is to enrich your life through an imaginative choice of top quality dishes prepared according to original recipes which will appeal to all of your senses and touch your emotions.

Informacije i rezervacije / Information and reservations: Trg bana Josipa JelaËiÊa 9, 10000 Zagreb, tel. 099 7312-500, fax 01 4832 313, www.republica.hr, info@republica.hr Radno vrijeme / Working hours: Ponedjeljak / Monday - subota / Saturday: 8:30 - 23:30 / Nedjelja / Sunday: 9:00 - 22:00

Pri Zvoncu Restoran Pri Zvoncu obiteljski je restoran u Zagrebu, udaljen tek nekoliko minuta od Trga bana JelaËiÊa. U mirnoj, zelenoj oazi, gostima restorana svakodnevno se nudi vrhunska domaÊa hrana od uvijek svjeæih namirnica s obliænjeg TreπnjevaËke trænice. Posjetite restoran Pri Zvoncu i kuπajte specijalitete kao πto su teletina ispod peke, meso iz tiblice, zagorski πtrukli i veliki izbor jela s roπtilja na drveni ugljen. Pronaite u svakodnevnoj æurbi i gradskoj vrevi miran kutak za opuπtanje i predah od svakodnevnih obaveza!

Restaurant Pri Zvoncu is a family restaurant in Zagreb, just a few minutes from Ban JelaËiÊ Square. In a quiet, green oasis, guests are offered top quality homemade food prepared with fresh ingredients bought at the nearby outdoor market in Treπnjevka.

Visit the restaurant Pri Zvoncu and taste specialities such as lamb baked under a bell, a pork chop and bacon dish known as tiblice, Zagorje cheese πtrukl i (a cottage cheese strudel), and a huge choice of grilled dishes. Escape the everyday hustle and bustle of the crowded city and come discover this quiet corner to relax and take a break from your everyday duties!

Informacije i rezervacije / Information and reservations: XII. Vrbik 1, 10 000 Zagreb, tel. 01 619 84 73, www.prizvoncu.com

Restoran Kaptol RuËak ili uspjeπno sklopljen posao?! OËekujemo Vas u restoranu Kaptol.

Pon - sub, 12:00 -15:00, slastan buffet po izboru πefa kuhinje, 175 kn po osobi ukljuËuje jedno piÊe, te kavu ili Ëaj.

Kreativnost i posveÊenost detaljima odlike su koje hotel The Westin Zagreb Ëine posebnim − naπe jamstvo Vama za nezaboravni gastro uæitak.

Meal or deal, business or pleasure?! Treat yourself in our Kaptol Restaurant. Creativity, passion & dedication to detail are what sets apart The Westin Zagreb from the rest − a guaranteed recipe for a true gastro experience.

Mon. to Sat., 12:00 -15:00, sumptuous chef’s choice buffet, ?24 EURO per person includes one beverage, as well as coffee or tea.

Informacije i rezervacije / Information and reservations: Kršnjavoga 1, 10000 Zagreb, tel. 01 4892 000, www.westinzagreb.com

158

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES

159

■ POZNATI U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU CELEBRITIES IN OUR AIRCRAFT

novom naraπtaju mladih hrvatskih glazbenika koji niæu nemale uspjehe i na meunarodnoj glazbenoj sceni, posljednjih se godina s razlogom i sve ËeπÊe spominje ime zagrebaËkog pijanista i skladatelja Brune Vlaheka, koji je Ëesti putnik i u zrakoplovima Croatia Airlinesa.

Poslije zavrπetka studija na MuziËkoj akademiji u Zagrebu (razred prof. Vladimira Krpana), Bruno Vlahek (1986) je - kao pijanist ali i skladatelj - nastavio poslijediplomske studije na visokoπkolskim glazbenim uËiliπtima u Lausannei i Kölnu, a kao stipendist πpanjolske Fondacije Isaaca Albéniza sada se usavrπava pod vodstvom glasovitoga ruskog koncertanta i pedagoga Dmitrija Baπkirova na Visokoj πkoli za glazbu kraljice Sofije u Madridu (Queen Sofia College of Music). Tijekom πkolovanja Vlahek je osvojio niz nagrada na uglednim meunarodnim pijanistiËkim natjeËajima, a u sijeËnju 2010. godine sve je to okrunio apsolutnom pobjedom na uglednome Meunarodnom natjecanju Aleksandra Skrjabina u Parizu.

Lani je umjetnik ostvario dvadeset repertoarno raznovrsnih koncertnih nastupa, od Ëega pet u Hrvatskoj i Ëak petnaest u inozemstvu (NjemaËka, Italija, ©panjolska, Francuska, Rumunjska i Velika Britanija). Vlahekove klavirske, komorne, zborske i orkestralne skladbe u novije vrijeme doæivljavaju izvedbe u Sjedinjenim AmeriËkim Dræavama, Australiji, Portugalu, Bosni i Hercegovini i Hrvatskoj, a ameriËka je izdavaËka kuÊa Alea Publishing & Recordings iz Washingtona 2010. godine objavila notno izdanje njegove Rapsodije za bas-klarinet i klavir. VeÊ i ovaj saæetak umjetniËkih postignuÊa Brune Vlaheka jasno pokazuje zaπto je baπ on - jednoglasnom odlukom prosudbenog suda - u Hrvatskoj nedavno proglaπen Mladim glazbenikom godine.

Za kratkog susreta u zraËnoj luci Zagreb, mladi nam je glazbenik rekao: - Naslov Mladoga glazbenika godine neupitno je najznaËajnija hrvatska glazbena nagrada, a ja sam je doæivio kao visoko priznanje za svoj dosadaπnji rad, ali i kao obvezujuÊi poticaj 160

CROATIA AIRLINES

B

runo Vlahek, a young pianist and composer from Zagreb, is part of the new generation of young Croatian musicians. His name is being heard more and more these days due to the notable successes he keeps achieving on the international music scene. Branko Vlahek offen flies on Croatia Airlines aircraft.

After graduating from the Music Academy in Zagreb, where he studied under Prof. Vladimir Krpan, Bruno Vlahek (1986), as a pianist and composer, continued his postgraduate studies at the music academies in Lausanne and Cologne. As a scholarship holder of the Spanish Foundation Isaac Albéniz, he is now specializing under the guidance of renowned Russian pianist and pedagogue Dmitri Bashkirov at the Queen Sofia College of Music in Madrid. Throughout his studies Vlahek has won a number of awards at reputable international piano competitions.

In January 2010, he crowned his successes with an absolute victory at the notable International Piano Competition Alexander Scriabin in Paris.

Last year the artist performed twenty different concerts, of which five were in Croatia and fifteen were abroad (Germany, Italy, Spain, France, Romania and Great Britain). Recently, Vlahek’s compositions of piano, chamber, choir and orchestra music have been performed in the United States of America, Australia, Portugal, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and in Croatia. In 2010, the American publishing company, Alea Publishing & Recordings based in Washington,

published the sheet music of his Rhapsody for Bass Clarinet and Piano. Just based on this summary of his artistic achievements, it is quite clear why a panel of judges unanimously named Bruno Vlahek Croatia’s Young Musician of the Year. The young musician shared some thoughts with us during a brief encounter at Zagreb’s airport.

- The title of Young Musician of the Year is by far the most significant Croatian music award, and I consider this a great recognition of all my work until now, but also an encouragement to further my artistic advancement. After a number of concerts last year, which mostly took place abroad, and after winning awards at international piano competitions, I am especially delighted that all of that has also been adequately recognized at home, in Croatia. In the context of this award, I am particularly pleased that I will soon be able to perform the Piano Concert No. 1 by Petar IljiË »ajkovski in my own town, accompanied by the Zagreb Philharmonic Orchestra. I will also appear at the 26th Music Biennale Zagreb, along with the Zagreb Saxophone Quartet, which will actually perform the world premiere of my work String Quartet at that concert. Although I am currently preparing for a number of recitals and programs of chamber music, which I will perform this year in Spain, France and Israel, my priority is to focus on my current studies in Madrid. My current work with the legendary professor Bashkirov is so important because the knowledge of the piano and artistic secrets that he has passed on to me are really the most valuable sign-posts during this crucial leg of my musical journey. n

Goran Saletto

U

za daljnje umjetniËko napredovanje. Nakon niza proπlogodiπnjih koncerata odræanih preteæito u inozemstvu i osvojenih nagrada na meunarodnim pijanistiËkim natjecanjima, osobito sam sretan πto je sve to primjereno vrednovano i u mojoj domovini Hrvatskoj.

U kontekstu ove nagrade osobito me raduje to πto Êu uz pratnju orkestra ZagrebaËke filharmonije uskoro u svome gradu izvesti Prvi klavirski koncert Petra IljiËa »ajkovskog. No u Zagrebu Êu takoer nastupiti u sklopu 26. muziËkog biennalea, a zatim i uza ZagrebaËki kvartet, koji Êe upravo na tom koncertu praizvesti moj GudaËki kvartet. Premda sada pripremam niz recitala i programa komorne glazbe koje Êu ove godine izvesti u ©panjolskoj, Francuskoj i Izraelu, u prvome sam redu usredotoËen na svoj aktualni madridski studij. Nadasve mi je vaæan moj sadaπnji rad s legendarnim profesorom Baπkirovim, jer pijanistiËka znanja i umjetniËke tajne koje mi on prenosi doista su najdragocjeniji putokazi na odluËujuÊoj dionici glazbeniËkog puta, kojom sada kroËim. n

Renowned professors from world leading business schools in Zagreb Advanced Program in Business is hosting professors from Harvard, Stanford, Wharton, London Business School, Georgia Tech, INSEAD and Bocconi to give lectures to top managers in CEE region.

Recognizing the needs of regional companies to reach higher levels of business performance, Innovation Institute is proud to present Advanced Program in Business.

APB is an executive education program aimed at top and middle managers of the most distinguished businesses in the CEE region. Even though such programs tend to be quite new to Croatian practitioners, they are very well accepted and highly valued in other countries across the globe. Due to constant changes in the environment, and the need to identify new strategies and approaches, one of the key benefits of such programs is the notion of keeping up with new trends, ideas and business concepts while gaining new theoretical insights and reinforcing specific skills at the same time.

Naturally, along with the previously mentioned benefits comes the priceless benefit of − networking. Executive education program broadens the scope of its participants and contributes to the creation of innovative leaders who will think differently about the

problems of today, and foresee the ones of tomorrow − leaders who will not simply conform to the current movement of things, but create the future themselves. The primary purpose of the program is not to provide a new degree, but rather to highlight new trends in business, allowing managers to meet their goals more easily and hold firmly to strategic advantages of their companies, in a market in crisis.

With this goal in mind, the APB has invited professors from the world’s leading business schools, whose work has left lasting impressions in their respective fields. The APB was developed in order to become the leading educational program in the CEE region, organized in accordance with similar programs held in top business schools, which was recognized by the numerous, renowned partners involved in its organization and execution. Finally, as a result of a cooperation between the APB organizers, partners and professors, Innovation institute will publish the first book of business case

studies that describe various challenges and issues CEE corporations had to face.

This book will be intended for use in all relevant College programs in the region, as well as for bringing various business situations closer to managers and businessmen.

The program will be held throughout 9 weekends, from April until July 2011. The lectures will be held in English and cover a wide range of topics, divided into 4 modules: innovation, corporate strategy, marketing and finance. In order to ensure a high level of quality, the lectures will be held in accordance with top business schools’ standards, as professors will apply the same teaching methods they use in the top universities they are affiliated to. In order to maintain high quality of the program and interactivity of sessions, the number of participants is limited. Participants can enroll into the full program or individual lectures, depending on their preferences.

Detailed information about the program and lecturers can be found at www.apb.hr CROATIA AIRLINES

161

KALENDAR DOGA–ANJA U HRVATSKOJ OŽUJAK/MARCH Zagreb Koncert Faithless/ Faithless Concert (23. oæujka/23 March) Dom sportova

TRAVANJ/APRIL Dubrovnik Libertas Film Festival/ Libertas Film Festival (11.-17. travnja/11-17 April) Kino Sloboda, Valamar Lacroma, hotel Dubrovnik/Cinema Sloboda, Valamar Lacroma, Hotel Dubrovnik Izloæba slika Jagode LasiÊ/ Exhibition of Paintings by Jagoda LasiÊ (15. travnja-9. svibnja/15 April-9 May) Atrij palaËe Sponza/Sponza Palace Atrium Pula Jazz koncert Will Bernard Trio/ Jazz Concert - Will Bernard Trio (15. travnja/15 April) Dom hrvatskih branitelja

162

CROATIA AIRLINES

Rijeka RijeËki Festival znanosti/ Rijeka Science Festival (11.-15. travnja/11-15 April) Rijeka Zadar Izloæba Stakleni sjaj - zbirka stakla Muzej Slavonije (19.-20. stoljeÊe)/ Exhibition - The Splendour of Glass - Collection of Glass from the Museum of Slavonia (19th- 20th Century) (do 16. travnja/until 16 April) Muzej antiËkog stakla Zadar/ Museum of Ancient Glass Zadar Zagreb Megadeth & Slayer, European Carnage turneja/ Megadeth & Slayer, European Carnage Tour (6. travnja/6 April) Arena Zagreb Koncert Roger Waters, The wall live/ Roger Waters Concert, The Wall - Live (13.travnja/13 April) Arena Zagreb

CALENDAR OF EVENTS IN CROATIA SVIBANJ/MAY Dubrovnik Izloæba - Ruer BoπkoviÊ/ Exhibit - Ruer BoπkoviÊ (1. svibnja-31. kolovoza/1 May-31 August) Kneæev dvor Dubrovnik International Wine & Jazz Festival/Dubrovnik International Wine & Jazz Festival (23. svibnja-1. lipnja/23 May-1 June) Pula Jazz koncert Sethstat/ Jazz Concert - Sethstat (13. svibnja/ 13 May) Rijeka Bookfest, 2nd book fair/ Bookfest, 2nd Book Fair (11.-15. svibnja/11-15 May) Gat Karoline RijeËke Zagreb Zagreb open - ATP Challenger Tour/ Zagreb Open - ATP Challenger Tour (7.-15. svibnja/7-15 May) SP Mladost

5. Festival pjevaËkih zborova 2011. /5th Choir Festival 2011 (21.-22. svibnja/21-22 May) Koncertna dvorana Vatroslav Lisinski/ Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall

LIPANJ/JUNE Pula Cantante Croatia 2011., 3. meunarodni festival zborova/ Cantante Croatia 2011, 3rd International Choir Festival (3. lipnja/3 June) Dom hrvatskih branitelja, crkva sv.

Franje/ Dom Hrvatskih Branitelja, St. Francis Church Zagreb Koncert Joea Cockera, predstavljanje albuma Hard Knocks/ Joe Cocker Concert, Hard Knocks Album Tour (1. lipnja/1 June), Arena Zagreb Koncert Bona Jovija/ Bon Jovi Concert (8. lipnja/ 8 June) Stadion Maksimir/ Maksimir Stadium T-Mobile INmusic festival 2011./ T-Mobile INmusic Festival 2011 (21.-22. lipnja/21-22 June) SRC Jarun

CROATIA AIRLINES

163

164

CROATIA AIRLINES

SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 166 NOVOSTI/NEWS 169 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST/ LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED 174 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU/ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 177 FLOTA/FLEET 179 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA/A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 181 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB/ZAGREB AIRPORT 182 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI/ WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 184 ADRESE/ADDRESSES CROATIA AIRLINES

165

CROATIA AIRLINES NOVOSTI

Predstavljamo nove linije Croatia Airlinesa

S poËetkom ljetnog reda letenja Croatia Airlines Êe povezivati Zagreb i Istanbul utorkom, Ëetvrtkom i nedjeljom vlastitim zrakoplovima. Naime, do sada je na istoj liniji Croatia Airlines imao samo zakupljeni broj sjedala na letovima Turkish Airlinesa. Osim toga, uvedeni su i izravni letovi izmeu Zadra i Münchena utorkom i Ëetvrtkom, kao i izmeu Zadra i Züricha ponedjeljkom i petkom.

Nove linije Croatia Airlinesa u ljetnom redu letenja joπ su: Dubrovnik ∑ Venecija (Ëetvrtkom i nedjeljom), Dubrovnik ∑ Atena (utorkom, Ëetvrtkom i nedjeljom), Dubrovnik ∑ Beograd (ponedjeljkom i srijedom) i Split - Hamburg (utorkom i subotom).

Opet su uspostavljeni letovi na liniji izmeu Rijeke i Londona, a prometovat Êe se srijedom.

Presenting new routes for Croatia Airlines

Starting with the summer flight schedule, Croatia Airlines’ own planes will connect Zagreb and Istanbul on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. In fact, until now Croatia Airlines had only chartered a number of seats on Turkish Airlines flights on that same route. In addition, we have introduced direct flights between Zadar and Munich on Tuesdays and Thursdays, as well as between Zadar and Zurich on Mondays and Fridays. Other new routes on Croatia Airlines summer flight schedule include: Dubrovnik ∑ Venice (Thursdays and Sundays), Dubrovnik ∑ Athens (Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays), Dubrovnik ∑ Belgrade (Mondays and Wednesdays), and Split ∑ Hamburg (Tuesdays and Saturdays). We have again restored the flights on the route between Rijeka and London, which will operate on Wednesdays.

Prijevoz putnika izme–u Sjedinjenih Ameri»kih Dræava i Hrvatske

Zrakoplovne vlasti SAD-a utvrdile su da Hrvatska ispunjava meunarodne sigurnosne standarde u zraËnom prometu te su joj dodijelile kategoriju 1, Ëime joj je omoguÊena uspostava izravnih letova izmeu dviju dræava.

Croatia Airlinesu tako se u cijelosti omoguÊuje implementacija marketinπke code share suradnje s ameriËkim prijevoznikom United Airlines.

Novost je takoer da Êemo od ovog ljeta sa SAS-om letjeti preko Kopenhagena za New York i Washington.

Transportation of passengers between the United States of America and Croatia

The aviation authorities in the USA have confirmed that Croatia has fulfilled the international safety standards regarding air traffic and has 166

CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS

been given Category 1 status which allows for the establishment of direct flights between the two countries.

Therefore, Croatia Airlines is permitted to implement marketing code share cooperation with the American carrier United Airlines.

Another piece of news is that this summer, in cooperation with SAS, we will also have flights to New York and Washington via Copenhagen.

be able to use the Croatia Airlines mobile application.

Pla∆anje Diners Club karticom na tri rate

NOVO! Croatia Airlines od sada vam omoguÊuje plaÊanje zrakoplovnih karata Diners Club karticom na tri rate. PodsjeÊamo da je ova opcija takoer na raspolaganju korisnicima kartica American Express i Maestro Privredne banke Zagreb.

E-commerce novosti

Korisnicima MaxTV-a dostupna je usluga kupnje zrakoplovnih karata Croatia Airlinesa u vlastitom domu. RijeË je o novoj interaktivnoj usluzi koja je razvijena kao dio projekta IPTV - interaktivni sadræaji u sklopu MaxTV-a u suradnji s HTom. Ova IPTV usluga korisnicima MaxTV-a, odnosno putnicima Croatia Airlinesa, koji su obavili rezervaciju u jednoj od naπih poslovnica ili preko naπeg Kontakt centra, omoguÊuje kupnju zrakoplovnih karata.

Ta je usluga u sklopu dodjele nagrada Vidi awards 2010 osvojila nagradu Teslino srebrno jaje. U sklopu istog natjeËaja naπa mobilna stranica tvrtke odabrana je kao najbolja u 2010. godini.

Takoer, Croatia Airlines uvodi joπ jednu moguÊnost plaÊanja svojih usluga, a rijeË je o usluzi NetPay unutar Net Bankinga Erste banke, koja vam omoguÊuje fleksibilnost plaÊanja i joπ je jedno unapreenje cjelokupne ponude Croatia Airlinesa.

Za korisnike telefona Nokia novost je da Êe se uskoro moÊi koristiti mobilnom aplikacijom Croatia Airlinesa.

E-commerce news

MaxTV users have access to the service of purchasing tickets on Croatia Airlines in their own homes. We are talking about a new interactive service which is being developed as part of the project IPTV ∑ interactive contents on MaxTV in cooperation with HT. This IPTV service enables MaxTV users and Croatia Airlines passengers who have already made reservations in one of our offices or through our Contact Centre to actually purchase the airlines tickets.

This service won the Silver Tesla’s Egg in the Vidi Awards 2010 competition. In the same competition, our mobile web page was chosen as the best in 2010.

In addition, Croatia Airlines is introducing another payment option for its services. This is the service NetPay within Net Banking Erste Bank, which allows you payment flexibility and is yet another improvement in the overall offer of Croatia Airlines.

Users of Nokia mobile telephones will soon

Pay with Diners Club credit card in three instalments

New! From now on, along with the American Express and Maestro cards from Privredna Bank Zagreb, Croatia Airlines also allows you to pay for airline tickets with Diners Club credit cards, in three instalments.

Dobili smo vrijedna priznanja

Hrvatski graani, korisnici usluga zraËnog prijevoza, smatraju kako Croatia Airlines nudi najbolji omjer cijene i kvalitete meu aviokompanijama koje lete na hrvatskom træiπtu. To je rezultat posebnog istraæivanja Best Buy Award - DEEPMA, koje je proveo zagrebaËki Centar za istraæivanje træiπta GfK (dio meunarodne GfK grupacije sa sjediπtem u NjemaËkoj). Na temelju tog istraæivanja naπoj je tvrtki dodijeljen certifikat Best Buy Award u kategoriji Aviokompanije.

Takoer, Croatia Airlines je i u 2010. godini, treÊi put za redom, dobio nagradu za hrvatski superbrand. Tako smo se ponovno naπli meu najboljim hrvatskim robnim markama (brandovima) u izboru organizacije Superbrands Adriatic, podruænici nezavisne meunarodne organizacije Superbrands.

We received a notable recognition

Croatian citizens, the users of airline transport services, believe that Croatia Airlines offers the best ratio of price and quality among airline companies which fly in the Croatian market.

This is the result of a special study called Best Buy Award − DEEPMA, which was conducted by the Zagreb Centre for Market Research GfK (a member of the international GfK group which has its headquarters in Germany). Based on that study, our company was awarded the Best Buy Award in the category of airline companies.

In addition, in 2010, for the third time in a row, Croatia Airlines received the Croatian superbrand award. Therefore, once again we were among the best Croatian trademarks (brands) according to Superbrands Adriatic, the branchoffice of the independent international organization Superbrands.

S Markom Vidanom, kapetanom zrakoplova Airbus i voditeljem projekta Electronic Flight Bag, razgovarali smo o vaænostima i prednostima uvoenja tog projekta.

We spoke to Marko Vidan, an Airbus aircraft captain, about the importance and advantages of the Electronic Flight Bag project for Croatia Airlines. Marko Vidan is also the leader of the project.

Piše/By Davor JanušiÊ

P

otkraj 2009. godine u Croatia Airlinesu poËela je implementacija i πkolovanje pilotskih posada za projekt Electronic Flight Bag (EFB). Taj proces, provodio se uz nadzor hrvatske Agencije za civilno zrakoplovstvo, a uspjeπno je implementiran tijekom 2010. godine. ©to je konkretno EFB? - RijeË je o sustavu koji letaËkim posadama pomaæe u obavljanju svih aktivnosti tijekom procesa upravljanja pojedinim letom, i to tako da se te aktivnosti obavljaju sigurnije, bræe, uËinkovitije i s manje papira. EFB razvijen je u suradnji s Lufthansa Systemsom i do kraja 2010. godine svaki je pilot Croatia Airlinesa zaduæio prijenosno raËunalo, tj. laptop sa svim aplikacijama kojima se koristi prije, tijekom i poslije leta. Njime se izravno utjeËe na smanjenje operativnih troπkova i unaprjeenje uËinkovitosti operativnih poslovnih procesa, a istodobno se pridonosi joπ veÊoj razini sigurnosti letenja. Sustav olakπava procese pripreme leta i upravljanja letaËkom dokumentacijom, osigurava precizniji i bræi izraËun pretpoletnih performansi zrakoplova te razmjenu i integraciju svih potrebnih operativnih podataka na jednome mjestu - planove leta, meteoroloπke prognoze, obavijesti o stanju u zraËnom prostoru, navigacijskim sredstvima, kompanijske informacije i drugo. Vaæno je naglasiti da je ovaj projekt nastavak svih ostalih aktivnosti, koje je naπa tvrtka poduzela s ciljem oËuvanja okoliπa, i to preko smanjene

potroπnje goriva i emisije πtetnih plinova, a omoguÊio je i golemo smanjenje potroπnje papira. Croatia Airlines odluËio se za tzv. Class 1 EFB (bez izravne komunikacijske veze sa zrakoplovom) i prva smo kompanija koja je na tu EFB platformu integrirala i sve vanjske informacijske sustave potrebne za cjelovitu pripremu letaËkih posada (Sustav planiranja posada, Sustav planiranja leta). Ovim se projektom Croatia Airlines potvrdio kao vodeÊa tehnoloπka zrakoplovna kompanija u regiji.

Koje su prednosti tog projekta tijekom pripreme leta i poslije leta u odnosu na dosadaπnji rad pilotskih posada?

- Mnogo je prednosti, a najbolje ih je prikazati na konkretnim primjerima. Dolaskom na duænost, dakle na pretpoletni briefing, svaki pilot ukljuËuje EFB na takozvani docking station Ëime se izravno povezuje s raËunalnom mreæom Croatia Airlinesa. To omoguÊuje elektroniËko preuzimanje planova za let, πto je golema uπteda i u vremenu i u ispisivanju papirnatih dokumenata, a za let sada se ispisuje Ëak deset puta manje stranica papira nego prije. Dolaskom u zrakoplov pilot na laptopu pokreÊe aplikaciju za izraËun pretpoletnih performansi, i to na temelju toËnih podataka o teæini zrakoplova, meteoroloπkim uvjetima, eventualnim ograniËenjima koja mogu smanjiti performanse zrakoplova i sliËno. Tako se, primjerice, mogu izraËunati veÊe dopuπtene teæine zrakoplova pri polijetanju uz istodobno manju uporabu snage motora, πto izravno

utjeËe i na manju potroπnju goriva. Napokon, poslije obavljena leta, svi se podaci elektronski pohranjuju na server i Ëuvaju najmanje tri mjeseca, bez potrebe za ispisivanjem i klasiËnim arhiviranjem.

Kako se EFB upotrebljava tijekom leta?

- Tijekom leta EFB omoguÊuje uvid u cjelokupnu dokumentaciju zrakoplova i podatke vaæne za let, kao πto su meteoroloπki podaci, vremenske karte, podaci o zraËnim lukama, NOTAM-i… Osim toga, piloti viπe ne zaduæuju set priruËnika kao prije, kad je za zrakoplov Airbus trebalo πest, a za zrakoplov Dash 8 - Q400 deset priruËnika. Svi ti priruËnici, ukljuËujuÊi i godiπnje izmjene od nekoliko tisuÊa stranica za svakog pilota, sada su dostupni u elektronskom obliku, a u zrakoplovu u printanoj verziji ostaju samo QRH priruËnik i LIDO navigacijske karte.

Kol iko je t r a ja l a i m p l e m e n t ac ija i πkolovanje posada?

- Proces implementacije trajao je πest mjeseci i tijekom tog razdoblja πesnaest testnih posada Croatia Airlinesa rabilo je EFB na redovitim letovima tvrtke te biljeæilo napomene oko rada aplikacija i koriπtenja u pilotskoj kabini.

Prvi let na kojemu je koriπten EFB obavljen je u rujnu 2009. godine zrakoplovom Airbus A320. Valja naglasiti kako implementacijom EFB projekta Croatia Airlines nastavlja sa snaænim tehnoloπkim unaprjeivanjem operativnih poslovnih procesa, koristeÊi se svim prednostima koje suvremene tehnologije donose u svakodnevnom poslovanju.

■

I

n late 2009, Croatia Airlines began to implement and train pilot crews for the project Electronic Flight Bag (EFB). The process, was successfully implemented in the course of 2010 under the supervision of the Croatian Civil Aviation Agency.

What exactly is EFB? - It is a system which assists flight crews when it comes to performing activities which are part of the flight management process. It enables them to perform all those activities in a safer, faster and more efficient manner, with as little paperwork as possible. EFB was developed in cooperation with Lufthansa Systems. By the end of 2010, every Croatia Airlines pilot was given a laptop containing all the applications they would use before, during and after a flight. Using EFB will have a direct bearing on operative cost reduction and improving the efficiency of the operative business processes. As a result, it will also improve flying safety. The system facilitates flight preparation processes and flight documentation management; it provides for a more CROATIA AIRLINES

167

precise and faster calculation of pre-flight aircraft performances, as well as the exchange and integration of all necessary operative data in one place ∑ flight plans, meteorological forecasts, information about the situation in the airspace, navigation tools, company information and others. It is important to emphasise that the project continues a series of other activities undertaken by the company with the goal of preserving the environment by way of reducing fuel consumption and greenhouse gas emissions. This project has also led to a drastic reduction in the use of paper. Croatia Airlines has opted for the so called Class 1 EFB (no direct communication link with the aircraft) and we are also the first company to integrate onto that platform all the external information systems required for complete flight crew preparation (Crew planning system, Flight planning system). Having embarked on this project, Croatia Airlines has affirmed its position as the technological leader among airline companies in the region.

EFB sustav izravno utjeËe na smanjenje operativnih troπkova i unaprjeenje uËinkovitosti operativnih poslovnih procesa. Ovaj projekt nastavak je svih ostalih aktivnosti, koje je naπa tvrtka poduzela s ciljem oËuvanja okoliπa, i to preko smanjene potroπnje goriva i emisije πtetnih plinova.

Using EFB will have a direct bearing on operative cost reduction and improving the efficiency of the operative business processes.

The project continues a series of other activities undertaken by the company with the goal of preserving the environment by way of reducing fuel consumption and greenhouse gas emissions.

168

CROATIA AIRLINES

What are the advantages of this project during flight preparations and after a flight? How does the current situation compare with the way flight crews worked before its implementation?

- The advantages are numerous and probably best explained with concrete examples. When they report for duty, i.e. for a pre-flight briefing, pilots turns on their EFBs to the so called docking station which connects them directly to the Croatia Airlines computer network. This allows them to electronically download flight plans, which is a huge savings in terms of time and paper ∑ as much as ten times fewer pages need to be filled out before every flight. When they enter the aircraft, pilots start running the pre-flight performance calculation application on their laptops, which takes into account the exact data on aircraft weight, meteorological conditions, possible restrictions which may have a bearing on the aircraft’s performances and similar data. For example, we can calculate higher permissible aircraft weight on takeoff with less engine power, which, obviously, has an impact on reduced fuel consumption. And finally, after the flight, all flight data are stored electronically on the server and kept for a minimum of three months. Again, this eliminates the classic paperwork and archiving procedures.

How is EFB used during the flight?

- During the flight, EFB provides insight into the overall aircraft documentation and flight-specific data, for example, meteorological data, weather charts, airport information, NOTAMs, etc. Besides, our pilots will no longer be issued a set of manuals like before, when they had to have six or ten manuals for the Airbus and Dash 8- Q400 aircrafts, respectively. All those manuals, including annual amendments containing several thousand of pages for each pilot, are now available in electronic form. Currently, the only hardcopies on board are the ORH manual and LIDO navigation maps.

How long did the implementation and pilot training last?

- The implementation process lasted six months. During that period, a total of 16 Croatia Airlines test crews used EFB on the airlines’ regular flights and noted their observations regarding the functionality of the application and its use in the pilot’s cabin. The first EFB-assisted Airbus A320 aircraft flight took place in September 2009.

By implementing the EFB project, Croatia Airlines continues its efforts to implement important technological improvements into its operative business processes. In that, it uses an entire range of advantages brought about by modern technology in the day-to-day running of business.

■

Croatia Airlines nagrauje autora najoriginalnije fotografije.

Luticia Kristovich

Fotografirajte i otputujte Letite Croatia Airlinesom, fotografirajte i osvojite zrakoplovne karte.

Autor najoriginalnije fotografije bit Êe nagraen dvjema povratnim meunarodnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa.

Zaπto volite putovati ?

Budite kreativni. Fotografijom i jednom reËenicom izrazite zaπto volite putovanja.

Najbolju fotografiju izabrat Êe Sluæba promotivnih aktivnosti Croatia Airlinesa, a fotografiju Êemo objaviti u sljedeÊem broju putnog Ëasopisa.

Crno-bijele, fotografije u boji ili dijapozitive dostavite do 10. svibnja 2011. godine na adresu: Croatia Airlines, Sluæba promotivnih aktivnosti, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, Hrvatska.

Ne zaboravite priloæiti kupon s dna stranice.

" g.

ga

gica

IME PREZIME DATUM RO–ENJA ULICA I BROJ PO©TANSKI BROJ GRAD DRÆAVA TEL. E-MAIL

Uvjeti nagradne igre: - fotografije postaju vlasniπtvo Croatia Airlinesa - Croatia Airlines ne preuzima nikakvu odgovornost u sluËaju gubitka materijala - Croatia Airlines zadræava pravo koriπtenja fotografija u promidæbenim materijalima Croatia Airlinesa bez naknade - nagrada ne moæe biti zamijenjena za novac - djelatnici Croatia Airlinesa te Ëlanovi njihove uæe obitelji nemaju pravo sudjelovanja u nagradnoj igri

Croatia Airlines is rewarding the author of the most original photograph.

Maja MarkotiĂŠ

Take a photo and travel

Fly Croatia Airlines, take photographs and win two air tickets.

The winner will receive 2 Croatia Airlines international round trip tickets.

Why do you love to travel ?

Be creative. In one sentence and a single photograph express why you love to travel. Selection of the most original photograph will be made by the Croatia Airlines Promotion Department and the photograph will be published in the next issue of our inflight magazine.

You should send us your B/W or color photographs and/or slides by 10th May 2011 to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Promotion Department, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, Croatia.

Do not forget to include the coupon from the page bottom.

" Mr.

Mrs.

Miss.

NAME SURNAME DATE OF BIRTH ADDRESS POSTAL CODE CITY COUNTRY TEL. NO. E-MAIL Conditions for participation: - photographs become the property of Croatia Airlines - Croatia Airlines does not assume any responsibility in case of the possible loss of the material - Croatia Airlines reserves the right to use the material in the Croatia Airlines promotional activities and materials, without an additional payment.

- reward cannot be exchanged for money - employees of Croatia Airlines as well as the members of their immediate families, are not allowed to participate

Miles & More Broj leta/ Flight number

TrenutaËni let/Current flight Broj karte/Document number

Klasa knjiæenja/ Booking class

Datum polaska/Date of departure Linija (npr. Frankfurt–Pariz)/Route (e.g. Frankfurt–Paris)

Adresa (molimo vas da navedete samo jednu adresu)/ Address (please state only one address) ga/Ms

g./Mr

Titula/Title

Telefon/Telephone

KuÊna/ Home Ime/First name

Poslovna/ Business Prezime/Surname

Ulica i broj/Street and number

Poπtanski pretinac/PO Box

Grad/Town

Razred putovanja/ Service class Economy Class Business Class First Class

Dræava/Country

Molimo vas da unesete ime kompanije/Please enter name of company here

Poπtanski broj/Postcode

Datum roenja/Date of birth Mjesec/ Dan/ Month Day

Godina/ Year

Odjel/Department

Mobilni telefon/Mobile number Privatni/ Home

Poslovni/ Business

Ovime potvrujem* da od sljedeÊih (dolje oznaËenih) kompanija æelim primati SMS poruke s vaænim i najnovijim informacijama u vezi s mojim letom tijekom putovanja. /I hereby give my permission* for the following listed companies (ticked below) to send me important and up-to-date information regarding my travel itinerary by SMS during my travels.

Deutsche Lufthansa AG, kompanija iz koncerna Lufthansa ili kompanije koje sudjeluju u programu Miles & More (ukljuËujuÊi Croatia Airlines) Deutsche Lufthansa AG, a company of the Lufthansa Group or joint operators of the Miles & More programme (including Croatia Airlines)

Drugi partneri programa Miles & More Other Miles & More partner corporations

e-mail adresa/E-mail address Privatna/ Home

Poslovna/ Business

Ovime potvrujem* da od sljedeÊih (dolje oznaËenih) kompanija æelim elektronskom poπtom primati obavijesti o ponudama, promocijama, novim uslugama i drugim zanimljivim temama vezanima uz Lufthansu, grupu Lufthansa i partnerske kompanije. /I hereby give my permission* for the following listed companies (ticked below) to send me information by e-mail about offers, promotions, new services and other interesting topics from Lufthansa, the Lufthansa Group, as well as partner corporations.

Deutsche Lufthansa AG, kompanija iz koncerna Lufthansa ili kompanije koje sudjeluju u programu Miles & More (ukljuËujuÊi Croatia Airlines) Drugi partneri programa Miles & More Deutsche Lufthansa AG, a company of the Lufthansa Group or joint operators of the Miles & More programme (including Croatia Airlines) Other Miles & More partner corporations

Uvjete Ëlanstva u programu Miles & More moæete pronaÊi na web stranicama www.miles-and-more.com ili www.lufthansa.com. Ova vas prijava ne obvezuje ni na koji naËin.

Ne budete li viπe htjeli primati obavijesti o naπim posebnim ponudama, u svakom trenutku moæete povuÊi pristanak za koriπtenje vaπih osobnih podataka u promotivne svrhe pozivom na telefonski broj + 49-1805-5959 (€0.12/min. preko fiksne mreæe u NjemaËkoj) * Znam da dopuπtenje dano Deutsche Lufthansi AG mogu povuÊi u svakom trenutku.

Poljski/ Polish

©panjolski/ Spanish

Japanski/ Japanese

Conditions of participation in our Frequent Flyer Programme Miles & More can be obtained on request on the Internet at www.miles-and-more.com and www.lufthansa.com This registration places you under no obligation.

If you no longer wish to receive our special offers, you can withdraw your permission to use your personal information for advertising purposes by contacting us on +49 -18 05 - 59 59 (€ 0.12/min. from a German landline). * I am aware that I can revoke this permission from Deutsche Lufthansa AG at any time.

Odabrani naËin komunikacije za Miles & More News i izvjeπtaj o stanju milja na raËunu/Preferred means of communication for Miles & More News and Miles & More account statements: Elektronski/ Poπtom/ Online Post

POU01

Jezik za komunikaciju/Preferred correspondence language Francuski/ Engleski/ Talijanski/ NjemaËki/ French English Italian German

Datum/Date

Potpis/Signature

Jednostavno je prijaviti se za Ëlanstvo: • preko interneta na web stranici www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • poπtom • telefaksom na broj +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 • kod osoblja u zrakoplovu Bit Êe nam zadovoljstvo ubiljeæiti vam milje za trenutaËni let kao i za bilo koji drugi let koji ste ostvarili u posljednjih 6 mjeseci s Croatia Airlinesom, kompanijom Lufthansa ili nekim drugim partnerom u programu. Molimo vas da gore unesete podatke o trenutaËnom letu.

Retroaktivno ubiljeæavanje milja za druge letove moæete zatraæiti na stranici www.miles-and-more.com. Molimo vas da uvijek Ëuvate originalnu kartu za ulazak u zrakoplov (boarding pass) i kopiju putne karte dok vam se milje ne ubiljeæe na raËun.

It’s so easy to register: • Online at www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • By fax +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200

d

• By post • With one of your flight attendants

We will be happy to credit your account with the miles for this flight and for any other flights taken in the last 6 months with Croatia Airlines, Lufthansa or another Miles & More partner.

Enter your current flight above. To have the miles for the other flights credited to your account, go to www.miles-and-more.com. Please retain your original boarding card and passenger receipt (copy of your ticket) until the miles have been credited to your account.

Razred putovanja/ Service class

Klasa knjiæenja/ Booking class

Miles & More – veÊ sad poËnite prikupljati milje

Broj leta/ Flight number

Broj karte/

Miles & More – start collecting miles now

Document number

LUFTPOST

Prostor za marku.

PAR AVION PRIORITAIRE

Please affix stamp here.

RÉPONSE PUBLICITAIRE/ANTWORT ALLEMAGNE Miles & More Postfach 14 34 33309 Gütersloh ALLEMAGNE

»im se poËnete koristiti svojom privremenom karticom Miles & More, milje Êe vam se biljeæiti na raËun. Molimo vas da pri svakoj rezervaciji navedete broj svoje kartice Miles & More. Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu.

Milje za danaπnji let bit Êe vam ubiljeæene na raËun ako na prednju stranu unesete sve potrebne podatke o letu.

Ime/First name

Miles will start landing in your account immediately after you start to use your temporary Miles & More Card. Please remember to state your personal Miles & More number every time you make a reservation.

You will receive your proper Miles & More Card once you have collected one mile.

Prezime/Surname

We will credit the miles for your current flight to your account once you have provided all the details of the current flight on the front.

Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu.

We will send you your regular Miles & More Card as soon as you have earned one mile.

Osno­ve Mi­les & Mo­re pro­gra­ma

In­tro­du­cing Mi­les & Mo­re

Mi­les & Mo­re naj­ve­Êi je pro­gram na­gra­i­va­nja put­ni­ka u Eu­ro­pi i nu­di Ëla­no­vi­ma ra­zli­Ëi­te mo­guÊ­no­sti pri­kup­lja­nja mi­lja i ko­ri­πte­nja na­gra­da, kao i mno­ge priv­laË­ne po­god­no­sti. »la­no­vi pri­kup­lja­ju mi­lje ko­ri­ste­Êi se uslu­ga­ma broj­nih par­tne­ra u pro­gra­mu.

Mi­lje se bi­lje­æe za le­to­ve svih Ëla­ni­ca Star Al­li­an­cea i dru­gih kom­pa­ni­ja par­tne­ra, ali i za unaj­mlji­va­nje vo­zi­la, od­sje­da­nje u ho­te­li­ma ili po­tro­ πnju pre­ko kre­dit­nih kar­ti­ca Mi­les & Mo­re.

Mi­les & Mo­re is the gre­a­te­st fre­qu­ent flyer pro­gram­me in Eu­ro­pe of­fe­ring its mem­bers nu­me­ro­us po­ssi­bi­li­ti­es for col­lec­ting and re­de­ e­ming mi­les, as well as many at­trac­ti­ve pri­vi­le­ges.

Mem­bers col­lect mi­les by using the ser­vi­ces of many par­tners in the pro­gram­me.

Mi­les are cre­di­ted for flig­hts of all Star Al­li­an­ce mem­bers and ot­her air­li­ne par­tners, but al­so for ren­ting ve­hi­cles from rent-a-car par­tners or sta­ying in par­ti­ci­pa­ting ho­tels.

Za­tra­æi­te svo­ju Di­ners Club Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes kre­dit­nu kar­ti­cu!

5 ku­na = 1mi­lja - za sva­kih 5 ku­na po­tro­πe­nih pre­ko ove kar­ti­ce, bi­lje­æi vam se 1 na­grad­na mi­lja n Dvo­s­tru­ke mi­lje - osva­ja­te za pla­Êa­nje tu­ri­stiË­kih aran­æma­na i zra­ko­plov­nih ka­ra­ta u Di­ners Club Tra­ve­lu n Pri­kup­ljaj­te na­grad­ne mi­lje svug­dje - jed­no­stav­no pla­Êaj­te svo­jom Di­ners Club kar­ti­com na bi­lo ko­jemu od 12,000.000 DC pro­daj­nih mje­sta u zem­lji i ino­zem­s­tvu. n Osvo­ji­te joπ vi­πe mi­lja - ko­ri­πte­nje osta­lih po­god­no­sti Di­ners Clu­ba po­put be­s­plat­nih onli­ne uslu­ga, e-pla­Êa­nja ili traj­nih na­lo­ga do­no­si vam do­dat­ne mi­lje. n 2 kar­ti­ce - 1 ra­Ëun Mi­les & Mo­re - ko­ri­sti­te se isto­dob­no pri­vat­nom i po­slov­nom kar­ti­com Di­ners Clu­ba i Cro­a­tia Air­li­ne­sa, pri­kup­lje­ne na­grad­ne mi­lje zbra­ja­ju se na va­πemu ra­Ëu­nu Mi­les & Mo­re.

Ap­ply for yo­ur Di­ners Club Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes cre­dit card! n 5 HRK = 1mi­le - for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you col­lect 1mi­le. n Earn do­u­ble mi­les - for pa­ying pac­ka­ge to­urs and flig­ht tic­kets at Di­ners Club Tra­vel n Col­lect award mi­les ever­ywhe­re - sim­ply pay with yo­ur Di­ners Club Card in any of 12 mil­li­on DC of­fic ­ es in Cro­a­tia or abro­ad n Col­lect ex­tra award mi­les - by using ot­her Di­ners Club be­ne­fits, such as free onli­ne ser­vi­ces, in­ter­net ban­king and e-pa­ying, standing or­ders etc. n 2 cre­dit car­ds - 1 Mi­les & Mo­re mem­ber­ship ac­co­unt - use yo­ur pri­va­te and bu­si­ne­ss card to col­lect award mi­les on the sa­me mem­ ber­ship ac­co­unt.

Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu! n 7 kuna potrošenih u inozemstvu = 1 milja U suradnji s Erste Card Clubom, Croatia Airlines objavio je prvu companion karticu u Hrvatskoj! Svi postojeÊi i buduÊi korisnici Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditne kartice mogu zatraæiti i svoju Visa kreditnu karticu.

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card! n 7 kuna spent abroad = 1 mile Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club have issued the first companion credit card in Croatia! All current and future Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card holders have an opportunity to apply for the VISA credit card as well.

Za­tra­æi­te svo­ju kre­dit­nu kar­ti­cu Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes American Express! n 4 ku­ne = 1 mi­lja - za sva­ke 4 ku­ne po­tro­πe­ne pre­ko Pre­mi­um kar­ ti­ce bi­lje­æi se 1 na­grad­na mi­lja, od­no­sno za sva­kih 5 ku­na po­tro­πe­nih pre­ko Stan­dard kar­ti­ce n 2500 mi­lja do­bro­do­πli­ce - za no­ve osnov­ne Pre­mi­um ko­ri­sni­ke i 1250 mi­lja do­bo­do­πli­ce za no­ve do­dat­ne Pre­mi­um ko­ri­sni­ke n 1500 mi­lja do­bro­do­πli­ce za no­ve osnov­ne Stan­dard ko­ri­sni­ke i 750 mi­lja do­bro­do­πli­ce za no­ve do­dat­ne Stan­dard ko­ri­sni­ke n Dvo­s­tru­ke na­grad­ne mi­lje - za po­tro­πnju u po­slov­ni­ca­ma Cro­a­tia Air­li­ne­sa i Jum­bo Tra­vel Ser­vi­ces PBZ Car­da n UËla­nje­nje u Pri­o­rity Pa­ss bez nak­na­de te pri­stup u vi­πe od 450 VIP sa­lo­na u zraË­nim lu­ka­ma

Ap­ply for yo­ur Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes American Express cre­dit card! n 4 HRK = 1mi­le - for every 4 HRK spent via Pre­mi­um card, you col­lect 1mi­le, and for every 5 HRK spent via Stan­dard card you col­lect 1 mi­le. n 2.500 wel­co­me mi­les - for new ba­sic Pre­mi­um card users and 1.250 wel­co­me mi­les for new ad­di­ti­o­nal Pre­mi­um card users. n 1.500 wel­co­me mi­les - for new ba­sic Stan­dard card users and 750 wel­co­me mi­les for new ad­di­ti­o­nal Stan­ dard card users. n Earn do­u­ble award mi­les - using the card to pay for tra­vels at Cro­ a­tia Air­li­nes sa­les of­fi­ces and Jum­bo Tra­vel Ser­vi­ces of PBZ Card. n Free Pri­o­rity Pa­ss enrol­lment- it ena­bles you to ac­ce­ss in­to mo­re than 450 VIP air­port lo­un­ges

Ra­zre­di Ëlan­s­tva i po­god­no­sti Ko­ri­πte­njem uslu­ga par­tne­ra u pro­gra­mu pri­kup­lja­te na­grad­ne mi­lje ko­je za­mje­nju­je­te za na­gra­de i sta­tu­sne mi­lje ko­je odre­u­ju vaπ Ëlan­ski sta­tus i po­god­no­sti πto ih os­tva­ru­je­te.

Sta­tu­sne mi­lje pri­kup­lja­ju se re­do­vi­tim le­to­vi­ma slje­de­Êih zra­ko­plov­ nih kom­pa­ni­ja: Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, Luf­than­sa (uk­lju­Ëu­ju­Êi Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal i Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), SWI­SS i svi zra­ko­plov­ni par­tne­ri iz mre­æe Star Al­li­an­ce, te Cir­rus Air­li­nes, Air Dolomiti i Luxair. Sva­ka ta­ko os­tva­re­na mi­lja bi­lje­æi se i kao sta­tu­sna i kao na­grad­na mi­lja.

Mi­lje HON Cir­cle sta­tu­sne su mi­lje ko­je se pri­kup­lja­ju le­to­vi­ma slje­de­ Êih kom­pa­ni­ja: Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, Luf­than­sa (uk­lju­Ëu­ju­Êi Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal i Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), Luxair i Swiss International Airlines.

Ti­ers and be­ne­fits By using the Mi­les & Mo­re par­tners’ ser­vi­ces mem­bers col­lect award mi­les, which are tra­ded in for awar­ds; and sta­tus mi­les, which de­ter­ mi­ne a mem­ber’s mem­ber­ship sta­tus and pri­vi­le­ges.

Sta­tus mi­les can be ac­cru­ed on sc­he­du­led flig­hts ope­ra­ted by Cro­at­ia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­ nes, Luf­than­sa (in­clu­ding Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal and Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), SWI­SS, all Star Al­li­an­ce par­tners, Cir­rus Air­li­nes, Air Dolomiti and Luxair. Every mi­le ac­cru­ed is re­cor­ded as both a sta­tus and an award mi­le.

HON Cir­cle mi­les are sta­tus mi­les that you col­lect on flig­hts ope­ra­ ted by Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, Luf­than­sa (in­clu­ding Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal and Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), Luxair and Swiss International Airlines.

n

CROATIA AIRLINES

169

Uz 35.000 sta­tu­snih mi­lja pri­kup­lje­nih u jed­noj ka­len­dar­skoj go­di­ni, ste­Êi Êe­te sta­tus Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler, a za 100.000 sta­tu­snih mi­lja u ka­len­dar­skoj go­di­ni oËe­ku­je vas sta­tus Se­na­tor. »la­no­vi ko­ji pri­ku­pe naj­ma­nje 600.000 HON Cir­cle mi­lja u ra­zdob­lju od dvi­je uza­stop­ne ka­len­dar­ske go­di­ne, stje­Ëu sta­tus HON Cir­cle.

With 35,000 sta­tus mi­les col­lec­ted in one ca­len­dar ye­ar mem­bers earn the Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler sta­tus, with 100,000 sta­tus mi­les the Se­na­tor sta­tus, and mem­bers who col­lect at le­a­st 600,000 HON Cir­cle mi­les wit­hin two con­se­cu­ti­ve ca­len­dar ye­ars, earn the HON Cir­cle sta­tus.

Po­god­no­sti sta­tu­sa Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus - 25 po­sto mi­lja na zaista pri­je­e­ ni ili stan­dar­dni iznos za le­to­ve slje­de­Êih kom­pa­ni­ja: Luf­than­sa (uk­lju­Ëu­ju­Êi Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal i Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), Adria Air­ways, Air Ca­na­da, Air Do­lo­mi­ti, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, SWI­SS, US Air­ways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair i Continental - ne­o­gra­ni­Ëe­na va­lja­no­st na­grad­nih mi­lja za tra­ja­nja sta­tu­sa - upo­ra­ba Luf­than­sa Bu­si­ne­ss Cla­ss Lo­un­gea pri­li­kom le­to­va s ne­kom od Ëla­ni­ca Star Al­li­an­cea - pred­no­st na li­sti Ëe­ka­nja - pri­ja­va za let (check in) na πal­te­ru po­slov­nog ra­zre­da - 40 kg prtlja­ge bez na­pla­te ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji

Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler pri­vi­le­ges - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus of 25 per cent on the ac­tu­al flown mi­les or stan­dard mi­le­a­ge amo­un­ts on flig­hts ope­ra­ ted by Luf­than­sa (in­clu­ding Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal and Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), Adria Air­ways, Air Ca­na­da, Air Do­lo­mi­ti, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, SWI­SS, US Air­ways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair and Continental.

- Ac­cru­ed award mi­les ha­ve no ex­piry da­te - Use of the Luf­than­sa Bu­si­ne­ss Cla­ss Lo­un­ges whi­le flying with a Star Al­li­an­ce Mem­ber - Wa­i­ting li­st pri­or­ ity - Check-in at the Luf­than­sa Bu­si­ne­ss Cla­ss co­un­ter - Free bag­ga­ge al­lo­wan­ce of 40 kg depending on the destination and the airline

Po­god­no­sti sta­tu­sa Se­na­tor - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus - 25 po­sto mi­lja na zaista pri­je­e­ni ili stan­dar­dni iznos za le­to­ve slje­de­Êih kom­pa­ni­ja: Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Air Ca­na­da, Air Do­lo­ mi­ti, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, Luf­than­sa (uk­lju­Ëu­ju­Êi Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal i Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), SWI­SS, US Air­ways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair i Continental.

- ne­o­gra­ni­Ëe­na va­lja­no­st na­grad­nih mi­lja za tra­ja­nja sta­tu­sa - pre­du­jam od 50.000 mi­lja - upo­ra­ba Luf­than­sa Se­na­tor Lo­un­ge te Star Gold Lo­un­ge par­tne­ra u Star Al­li­an­ceu - vi­πi pri­o­ri­tet na li­sti Ëe­ka­nja - pri­ja­va za let (check in) na πal­te­ru prvog ra­zre­da - osi­gu­ra­no mje­sto na le­tu za re­zer­va­ci­je do 48 sa­ti odnosno do 72 sata una­pri­jed, ovisno o razredu putovanja - 50 posto ma­nje mi­lja za su­put­ni­ka na na­grad­nom le­tu, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - do­dat­nih 20 kg ili do­dat­ni ko­mad prtlja­ge bez na­pla­te, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dva elek­tron­ska va­u­Ëe­ra za pre­mje­πtaj u vi­πi ra­zred pu­to­va­nja (up­ gra­de), te joπ dva za svako zadræavanje statusa

Se­na­tor pri­vi­le­ges - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus of 25 per cent on the ac­tu­al flown mi­les or stan­dard mi­le­a­ge amo­un­ts on flig­hts ope­ra­ted

by Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Air Ca­na­da, Air Dolo­ mi­ti, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, Luf­than­sa (in­clu­ding Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal and Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), SWI­SS, US Air­ways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair and Continental.

- Ac­cru­ed award mi­les ha­ve no ex­piry da­te - 50,000 mi­les in advan­ce - Ac­ce­ss to the Luf­than­sa Se­na­tor Lo­un­ge as well as to the Star Gold Lo­un­ges of Star Al­li­an­ce par­tners - High wa­i­ting li­st pri­or­ ity - Fir­st Cla­ss check-in - Bo­o­king gu­a­ran­tee up to 48 or 72 ho­urs in advan­ce depending on the booking class - A 50 per cent mi­le­a­ge di­sco­unt for an ac­com­pan­ying per­son on flig­ht awar­ds depending on the airline - Ad­di­ti­o­nal 20 kg bag­ga­ge al­lo­wan­ce or an ad­di­ti­o­nal bag depending on the destination and the airline - 2 elec­tro­nic up­gra­de vo­uc­hers and two more for every status retention HON Cir­cle pri­vi­le­ges - All exi­sting Se­na­tor pri­vi­le­ges - Exe­cu­ti­ve bo­nus of 25 per cent - 100,000 mi­les in advan­ce - Se­na­tor sta­tus for yo­ur spo­u­se or par­tner depending on the airline - 6 elec­tro­nic Up­gra­de Vo­uc­hers and 6 more for every status retention - Ad­di­ti­on ­ al be­ne­fits of­fe­red by Mi­les & Mo­re par­tners, ro­un­ding off the tra­vel ex­pe­ri­en­ce

Po­god­no­sti sta­tu­sa HON Cir­cle - sve po­god­no­sti sta­tu­sa Se­na­tor - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus od 25 po­sto - pre­du­jam od 100.000 mi­lja - Sta­tus Se­na­tor za su­pru­æni­ka ili par­tne­ra, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - πe­st elek­tron­skih va­u­Ëe­ra za pre­mje­πtaj u vi­πi ra­zred pu­to­va­nja (up­gra­de), te joπ šest prigodom zadræavanja statusa - do­dat­ne po­god­no­sti ko­je nu­de par­tne­ri pro­gra­ma osi­gu­ra­va­ju­Êi je­din­s­tve­no isku­s­tvo pu­to­va­nja Tro­πi­te mi­lje Pri­kup­lje­ne na­grad­ne mi­lje za­mje­nju­je­te za mnoge na­gra­de: nagradne kar­te, pre­mje­πtaj u vi­πi ra­zred pu­to­va­nja (up­gra­de), ra­zli­Ëi­te nagra­de ko­ji­ma se mo­æe­te ko­ri­sti­ti pri pu­to­va­nju (ho­tel­ski smje­πtaj, unaj­mlji­ va­nje vo­zi­la).

170

CROATIA AIRLINES

Spend mi­les You can ex­chan­ge col­lec­ted award mi­les for awar­ds pre­pa­red for you: award tic­kets, up­gra­des, va­ri­o­us tra­vel awar­ds.

CROATIA AIRLINES

171

172

CROATIA AIRLINES

U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU UPORABA TELEFONSKIH NAPRAVA Sadaπnje odredbe zabranjuju uporabu odreenih prenosivih elektronskih naprava tijekom komercijalnih letova, zbog moguÊnosti ometanja navigacijske i komunikacijske opreme. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa zabranjena je uporaba ovih elektronskih naprava: prijenosnih telefona, komercijalnih dvovalnih prijenosnika (npr. walkie talkie); amaterskih prijenosnih ureaja; CB prijenosnih ureaja: prijenosnih ureaja koji emitiraju RF energiju na odreenoj frekvenciji, perifernih ureaja za raËunala ili igre. Ovi se ureaji mogu rabiti kad zrakoplov nije na pisti, uzletu, poËetnom penjanju, prilazu ili fazama slijetanja: osobna raËunala (periferni ureaji kao πto su πtampaËi, vanjski disc driveovi itd. nisu dopuπteni); osobna raËunala s igrama, VHF skenerski prijamnici; CD diskovi; kasetofoni, videorekorderi; kalkulatori. SljedeÊi ureaji mogu se rabiti sve vrijeme: sluπni aparati, ugraeni medicinski aparati, elektronski satovi, elektronski stimulatori æivaca.

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI

PO©TOVANI PUTNICI!

RU»NA PRTLJAGA

Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima.

Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobro doπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

Sva Ëekirana prtljaga mora imati putnikovo ime.

Besplatne oznake za prtljagu mogu se dobiti u svim prodajnim uredima Croatia Airlinesa.

Oznaku za prtljagu stavite i unutar prtljage. Sve vrijedne stvari i predmete nosite sa sobom u zrakoplov. Osobnu ruËnu prtljagu odloæite iznad svojeg sjedala ili ispod njega, tako da teæi komadi idu ispod, a lakπi iznad, a da istodobno ne smeta drugim putnicima i posadi zrakoplova.

UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije.

UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uvela je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi.

RED SJEDENJA Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo.

174

CROATIA AIRLINES

Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima.

PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja.

Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta.

Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva.

USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U zrakoplovu raspolaæemo s raznim vrstama alkoholnih i bezalkoholnih piÊa kojima Êe vas stjuardese posluæiti zajedno s jelom. Prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed, moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka (oznaka: SPML), kao npr. vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed. Ako ste naruËili poseban obrok, molimo vas da o tome na vrijeme izvijestite osoblje.

Putnicima nije dozvoljeno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Osoblje zrakoplova neÊe posluæiti alkoholna piÊa alkoholiziranim putnicima.

Prije slijetanja osoblje Êe ukloniti sve πalice i Ëaπe. Puπenje nije dopuπteno tijekom cijelog leta, a u toaletima postoje i detektori za dim koji se aktiviraju u sluËaju puπenja.

MEDICINSKA POMO∆ U zrakoplovu imamo priruËnu ljekarnu sa svim potrebnim lijekovima za prvu pomoÊ (s lijekovima protiv bolova, flasterima i ostalim osnovnim medicinskim sredstvima).

Za medicinsku pomoÊ obratite se kabinskom osoblju.

ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT SKY - SHOP U avionu moæete kupiti bescarinsku robu.

Glede cijena, obratite se domaÊici zrakoplova.

Roba se moæe platiti u sljedeÊim konvertibilnim valutama: euro, ameriËki dolar, funta, πvicarski franak i u nacionalnoj valuti kunama, te sljedeÊim karticama: Diners, Visa, American Express i EuroMaster Card. Zbog teæine aviona ili trenutaËnog nedostatka prostora ponuda moæe biti ograniËena, pa vas molimo da to uzmete u obzir.

■

DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our first and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests.

With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services.

Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inflight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

luggage must be stowed under the passenger seat or in the overhead compartment - heavy pieces below and lighter above the seat - in a way not to disturb other passengers or the cabin crew.

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole flight.

Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the flight.

Your seat has been especially reserved for you.

Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing.

BAGGAGE

RESTRICTED ITEMS

All checked-in baggage must have the passenger’s name on the outside. Free identification cards are available at all OU ticket offices. We suggest that you place an identification tag inside your luggage as well. Carry all valuable and important items with you on the plane. Hand

The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage.

Such items are: explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons, firearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers.

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking flights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.

SEAT ASSIGNMENT

Both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are available on board and are served with your meal. If you wish to order a special kind of meal such as vegeterian, dietary etc., you can do so when buying your ticket but must be 24 hours in advance. Kosher meals should be ordered 48 hours in advance. Make sure that your flight attendant is aware that you have ordered a special meal.

Passengers are prohibited from consuming their own alcoholic beverages on board. The cabin crew are instructed to discontinue serving passengers who appear to be intoxicated.

All cups and glasses will be removed from the passenger areas prior to take-off and landing.

Smoking is not permitted on any of Croatia Airlines’ flights. A fresh air vent and smoke detectors are located in toilletes and will be activated if smoking.

USE OF ELECTRONIC DEVICES Current regulations prohibit the use of certain types of portable electronic devices (PFDs) on board commercial flights, due to potential interference with navigational and communications equipment. On Croatia Airlines’ flights it is prohibited to use the following electronic devices: cellular telephones, commercial twoway transmitters (e. g., walkie-talkies); amateur radio transmitters; Citizen Band (CB) transmitters; 49-MHz transmitters, devices designed to radiate RF energy on a specific frequency; peripheral devices for computers or computer games.The following devices may be used when the aircraft is not in the taxiing, take-off, initial climb, approach or landing phases: personal computers (cable-connected peripheral devices such as printers, external disc drives, etc. are not permitted); personal computer games, VHS scanner receivers; compact disc players; cassette tape players; video recorders; calculators. The following may be operated at all times: hearing aids, implanted medical devices, electronic watches, electronic nerve stimulators.

Please read the instructions below, important for your safety and comfort during the flight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your flight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

SERVICE ON BOARD

MEDICAL AID Painkillers, Band Aid and other essential medical items are kept on the aircraft. Ask your flight attendant should you need any assistance.

SKY SHOP Duty free goods can be paid for in major currencies such as: Euro, US Dollar, British Pounds, Swiss Franks and national currency Kuna, whilst Diners, Visa, American Express and Euro-Master Card are also welcome. ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

175

176

CROATIA AIRLINES

FLOTA

FLEET Zrakoplovi A320-200, A319-100, i Dash8 - Q400 Ëine naπu flotu.

Our fleet consists of A320-200, A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

A320-200

A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m /ft )

122,40 / 1318

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

3

4

6

2

2

(1 unajmljen / 1 leased)

A320-200

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnog i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednog do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

A319-100

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnog i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednog do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Dash 8-Q400

Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje.

Raspored poslovnog i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednog do drugog leta.

One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer.

Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

CROATIA AIRLINES

177

178

CROATIA AIRLINES

ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA

A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

St. Petersburg ABERDEEN EDINBURG BELFAST DUBLIN

MANCHESTER

Chisinau LYON

VENICE

Turin

Genoa MADRID

RIJEKA

OSIJEK BELGRADE Bucharest

BRA» Bari

Palermo Catania

ATENA

TEL AVIV

Partneri / Partners:

bmi

CROATIA AIRLINES

179

180

CROATIA AIRLINES

ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

ZAGREB AIRPORT

5

4

4

Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21

International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

2 Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7

P

Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike

1

C

P C

Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A”

A

Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima

Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

D

D

Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”

N

B S B

Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte

3

S

TAKSI BUS

CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

A

Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila

Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica

B

Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica

Coffee Bar Kavana

Flight Information Informacije o letovima

C

Customs Control Carinska kontrola

Bar

Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije

D

Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina

Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks) Baggage Prtljaga

1

Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

2

V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije

3

Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

4

Restaurant Faust VranËiÊ

N

Newstand Novinarnica

5

Panoramic View Panoramski pogled

P

Passport Control Kontrola putovnica

S

Shops Prodavaonice

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.

Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.

U DUBROVNIKU autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 60 minuta prije leta.

Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova.

In DUBROVNIK airport buses leave 90 minutes before the flight, and in ZADAR 60 minutes before the flight.

The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing.

Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) - Zagreb (zraËna luka) - Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) Rijeka - Polazak u 15.30 sati.

Cijena karte u jednom smjeru: 145 kuna.

Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) - Zagreb Airport - Departure at 5.00. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport - Rijeka - Departure at 15.30. Price of a one-way ticket: 145 Kunas.

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb (od 27. ožujka 2011.): Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb (from 27 March 2011):

5.00 5.30 6.00 6.30

7.00 7.30 8.00 8.30

9.00 10.00 11.00 11.30

12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30

14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30

16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30

18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30

20.00

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 9.00 8.00 9.30 8.30 10.30

11.30 12.00 12.30

13.00 13.30 14.00

14.30 15.00 15.30

16.00 16.30 17.00

17.30 18.00 18.30

19.00 19.30 20.00

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, 098 472-539, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn.

The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas.

Autobusi iz Zagreba polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova.

Bus departures in Zagreb are an hour and a half prior for domestic flights and two hours prior for international flights.

CROATIA AIRLINES

181

ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI? Dragi putnici!

Zahvaljujemo svima koji su nam slali fotografije za ovaj broj i uljepπali naπe stranice. I dalje vas pozivamo da nam πaljete svoje radove i objasnite zaπto volite putovati. Uæivajte u buenju proljeÊa, bojama i mirisima procvjetale prirode i zabiljeæite sve πto doæivite u slici.

OËekuju vas vrijedne nagrade: dvije povratne karte Croatia Airlinesa za neko od naπih odrediπta po vaπem izboru i poklon-paketi. Zato fotoaparate u ruke i budite vrijedni.

Autor fotografije Marin Brzac najbolji je u ovom broju te ga nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa.

Promidæbenim poklon-paketom nagradit Êemo Tenu Samardæiju i Mariju KobaπliÊ.

Ana KonjetiÊ

Dear Passengers,

We would like to thank all of you who sent photographs for this issue and made our pages even more beautiful. Once again we invite you to continue sending your photos and in a short sentence explain why you love to travel. Enjoy the awakening of spring, the colours and aromas of nature blooming and capture all of those experiences in your pictures. Generous awards await you: two return trip tickets on Croatia Airlines to one of our destinations of your choice, as well as gift baskets. So, take your camera in hand and get to it.

Marina Brzac is the author of the photo that has been chosen as the best in this issue. She will receive two return tickets on Croatia Airlines.

Tena Samardæija and Marija KobaπliÊ will receive our promotional gift baskets.

Putovati znaËi biti spreman svijet promatrati i iz nekoga drugog kuta.

Travelling means being ready to observe the world from another angle.

Marko BubiÊ

Svojim oËima gledam ono πto inaËe gledam na TV-u.

I can see with my own eyes what I usually see on TV.

Volim putovanja jer na njima otkrivam bajkovite priËe iz davnine.

I love to travel because when I travel I discover fairy tales from long ago.

Tomislav JeliÊ

Andreja JakopoviÊ

Putovati volim zbog velikog veselja koje pruæa povratak kuÊi.

I love to travel because of the great joy of returning home.

182

CROATIA AIRLINES

Tena Samardæija

Martin Cruickshank

WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL?

Zbog mostova Because of bridges.

Vlado Aleksovski

Marino Brzac - Prva nagrada/First prize

Volim putovati jer me svako putovanje podsjeti kako je πarolik ovaj svijet, poput ovog afganistanskog prodavaËa balona.

I love to travel because every trip reminds me how colorful the world is, like this Afghan balloon seller.

Æivot je putovanje. Ako putujeπ, imaπ dva æivota.

Life is a trip. If you travel you have two lives.

Pitam vas: ima li πto ljepπe od putovanja??? I upoznavanja drugih kultura, gastronomija, rasa, povijesti, prirodnih ljepota...???

Let me ask you: is there anything better than travelling??? And getting to know other cultures, gastronomies, races, history, natural beauties...???

Putovanja moje snove pretvaraju u javu.

Travelling turns my dreams into reality.

Iva Roman

Marija KobaπliÊ

Volim putovati jer putovanja mi daju osjeÊaj da cijelo vrijeme letim.

I love to travel because when I travel I feel like I am flying the entire time.

CROATIA AIRLINES

183

ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 616-01-53 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/ugd@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 062-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 18:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept.

Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team Tel. +385 (0) 91 77 312 Brojevi telefonskog check in-a / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is:

HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam WTC, Tower B, Level 4, Schiphol Boulevard 207, 1118 BH Luchthaven Schiphol Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Fax (+31-20) 316-42-81 amsto@croatiaairlines.hr BeË / Wien Airport Office Objekt / Building 645, Room 115-116, A-1300 Wien Flughafen Tel. (+43-1) 7007 359-62, 361-63 Fax (+43-1) 7007 359-63, 361-64 vieap@croatiaairlines.hr Bruxelles Brussels Airport Box 31, 1930 Zaventem Airport office: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5133 Airport counter: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik ZraËna luka, Airport Dubrovnik 20 117 »ilipi, Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, 60 313 Frankfurt, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London 2 The Lanchesters, 162-164 Fulham Palace Road, London, W6 9ER, Tel. (+44-20) 8563-00-22, 0844 3710 310 (UK only) Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615 Airport Heathrow,

184

CROATIA AIRLINES

ADDRESSES Room 531, Terminal 1, Zone K Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-46-83 Fax (+44-20) 8754-73-77 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr München Flughafen Franz Josef-Strauss, Terminal 2, Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Büro B.4.1322, 85 356 München, Tel. (+49-89) 97-592-730/731 Fax (+49-89) 97-592-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr Paris

Roissypôle, Le Dôme 1, 3th floor

Rue de la Haye

BP 18913 Tremblay en France

95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-4000 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-5511 parto@croatiaairlines.hr Pula Ulica Carrarina 8, 52100 Pula, Tel. (+385-52) 218-909 (+385-52) 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyto@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5, 51 000 Rijeka, Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma ZraËna luka, Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci Torre Uffici 2, Room 518 00054 Fiumicino Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo ZraËna luka Sarajevo, Airport Khurta Schorka 36, 71 210 Sarajevo, Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skoplje Ul. Dame Gruev 3, 1000 Skoplje, Tel. (+389-2) 3115-858, 3296-967 Fax (+389-2) 3114-203 ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpto@croatiaairlines.hr Split Obala hrv. nar. preporoda 9, 21 000 Split, Tel. (+385-21) 362-997, 362-055 (komercijala) Fax (+385-21) 362-567 sputo@croatiaairlines.hr ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar Poljana Natka Nodila 7, 23 000 Zadar, Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-23) 343-045 Fax (+385-23) 312-930 zadto@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb Zrinjevac 17, 10 000 Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 48-19-633 Fax (+385-1) 48-19-632 ZraËna luka Zagreb, Zagreb Airport, 10 150 Zagreb, Pleso Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-585 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Zürich Limmatquai 138, 8001 Zürich, Tel. (+41-44) 261-08-40 Fax (+41-44) 261-08-83 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr

Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe Crna Gora / OKI AIR MONTENEGRO d.o.o.

Ivana VujoševiÊa 46, 81 000 Podgorica Montenegro Tel. (+382-20) 201-201 Tel./Fax (+382-20) 241-154 »eπka CK Blue Sky Travel Na Perštýne 1, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. (+420-2) 2222-2235 Fax (+420-2) 2222-0237 GrËka / Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str. 105 57 Athens, Greece Tel. (+30-210) 32-17-679, 32-17-750 Fax (+30-210) 32-49-152 Kosovo Airtour Head Office: St. Luan Haradinaj #27 10031 Prishtina, Kosovo Tel. (+381-38) 233-833 Fax (+381-38) 245-845 Airport Office: Prishtina International Airport Tel. (+381-38) 594-111 Fax (+381-38) 594-222 Portugal / Global Portugal Representacoes (GRT) Rua Castilho, N˚ 5 − 1˚ andar, Sala 18 1250-066 Lisboa, Portugal Tel. (+351-21) 351-2982 Fax (+351-21) 351-2988 SlovaËka / CK Blue Sky Travel 1. poschodie, Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel. (+421) 5262 2375 Španjolska / Global Representacion Turistica (GRT) c/Valencia, 266, 4/1a 08007 Barcelona Tel. (+34-934) 875-775 Fax (+34-934) 880-121 Turska / ZENITH Services Head Office: Ordu Caddesi, No. 206/1, Laleli 34134 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 513-2667 Fax (+90-212) 512-4234 Airport Office: Istanbul Ataturk Airport International Terminal Departure Floor Yesilkoy 34149 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 465-50-23, 465-40-92 Fax (+90-212) 465-40-92 Bliski istok / Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda St., Migdalor blgd. 12th Floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. (+972-3) 516-7181, 516-7140 Fax (+972-3) 516-7174 SAD / USA Networld Inc. / Croatia America 300 Lanidex Plaza, Parsippany NJ 07054, Tel. (+1-973) 884-3401 Fax (+1-973) 428-3929 Toll free 888-462-7628 Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. (+61-3) 9699-9355 Fax (+61-3) 9699-9388 Novi Zeland / New Zealand Croatia Times Limited Ltd. NZ PO Box 104-056; Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Road, Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. (+64-9) 837-9897 Fax (+64-9) 837-9898 Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo 105-0001 Japan Tel. (+81-3) 3593-6740 Fax (+81-3) 3593-6534