Inflight Magazine CROATIA Winter 2014/15 by Croatia Airlines

WINTER 2014/2015

WINTER

ZIMA

WINTER 2014/2015

A time to remember Embark on your journey, and spend quality time with someone special in Croatia’s charming Capital. Reconnect in Zagreb with one of Sheraton’s fantastic weekend packages, the “romantic getaway” or “wellness revitalization”. Contact us today at: reservations@sheratonzagreb.com or call us: +385 1 455 3535

Romantic package for two or Wellness Revitalization package for two per € night

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Crikvenica, str./page 48

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Krešimir KuËko

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Rukovoditeljica marketinga/ Head of Marketing Zlata PrpiÊ

Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek

Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o.

Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26

Pozdravljamo vas u naπem zrakoplovu i uistinu nam je drago πto ste za putovanje do vaπeg odrediπta odabrali let Croatia Airlinesa. Nadamo se da vam vrijeme u naπem zrakoplovu protjeËe ugodno, a raduje nas i πto upravo listate Ëasopis Croatia, namijenjen baπ vama. Vjerujemo da Êete i ovog puta u naπoj Croatiji pronaÊi teme koje Êe vas razonoditi i zanimati - od intervjua s naπom mladom, karizmatiËnom mezzosopranisticom Dianom Haller na prvim stranicama naπeg lista, preko izloæbi u zagrebaËkim muzejima (Il Guercino u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt te novim akvizicijama u Modernoj galeriji), pa sve do predstavljanja ljepota naπe kontinentalne Hrvatske, toËnije Like, te naπe obale (crikveniËke rivijere i Opatije), a takoer i naπega novog odrediπta Nice (u koju Êemo poËeti letjeti u proljeÊe). Bliæi se kraj joπ jedne kalendarske godine, koja je za nas bila zahtjevna, ali i uspjeπna. Izmeu ostaloga, proslavili smo 25. obljetnicu osnutka tvrtke (o Ëemu takoer moæete saznati viπe na stranicama naπeg lista), obiljeæili 25 godina dizajna i fotograﬁje u Croatia Airlinesu te 20 godina izlaæenja ovog Ëasopisa (i o tome objavljujemo fotoreportaæe). Takoer, deseta je godiπnjica naπega ulaska u Star Alliance, a kao Ëlanica te najuglednije zrakoplovne udruge, u suradnji s naπim partnerima, nudimo vam viπe od 18.500 dnevnih letova prema 1316 zraËnih luka u 192 zemlje. Osobito raduje πto i dalje kontinuirano postižemo kvalitetne poslovne rezultate. U prvih devet mjeseci ove godine kompanija je zabiljeæila dvostruko veÊu dobit nego u istome proπlogodiπnjem razdoblju, πto nedvojbeno pokazuje da Êe Croatia Airlines i ove godine ostvariti planirani pozitivni neto rezultat. Sve nam to daje razloge za zadovoljstvo, ali takoer sve to ne bi bilo moguÊe bez vas, dragi putnici, bez vaπega povjerenja, vjernosti i odluke da letite upravo s nama. Stoga vam na tome od srca zahvaljujemo.

D. FabijaniÊ

Poπtovani putnici!

Dear passengers,

We believe that you will, once again, find topics in Croatia that will entertain and interest you from an interview with the young, charismatic mezzo-soprano Diana Haller on the first pages of our magazine, through exhibitions in Zagreb’s museums (Il Guercino at the Museum of Arts and Crafts and new acquisitions at the Modern Gallery), all the way to the beauties of continental Croatia, or more precisely − Lika, and our coast (The Crikvenica Riviera and Opatija), as well as our new destination spot, Nice (to which we will begin flying in the spring). The end of another demanding, yet successful calendar year is approaching. Among other things, we celebrated the 25th anniversary of the company’s establishment (which you can read more about on the pages of our magazine), celebrated 25 years of design and photography at Croatia Airlines and 20 years of this magazine’s publication (and we published a photo-reportage on that). Also, it is the tenth anniversary of our entry into Star Alliance; as a member of such a respected air transport association, and in collaboration with our partners, we offer more than 18,500 daily flights to 1,316 airports in 192 countries. We are especially pleased to say that we are still in an upward trend in terms of achieving quality business results. In the first nine months of this year, the company reported profi ts two times higher than those of the same period last year, which undoubtedly shows that Croatia Airlines will likely achieve its projected net results this year as well. All of this gives us grounds for satisfaction, which would not have been made possible without you, dear passengers − without your trust, loyalty and your decision to fly with us. Thus, we thank you from the bottom of our hearts.

We would like to welcome you on board our aircraft and we hope that you are having a comfortable flight. We are truly pleased that you have chosen to fly to your destination with Croatia Airlines and we are delighted to see you leafing through our inflight magazine Croatia which was intended for you.

I hope that 2015 will bring you much happiness and success − many wonderful trips, interesting encounters, as well as plenty of pleasant moments spent with family and friends. We wish you a wonderful Holiday Season, a merry Christmas and a very happy New Year.

U æelji da vam 2015. godina donese mnogo sretnih i uspjeπnih dana, lijepih putovanja i zanimljivih susreta te obilje ugodnih trenutaka provedenih s obitelji i prijateljima, Ëestitam vam boæiÊne i novogodiπnje blagdane.

Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec

Vaš, Yours faithfully,

Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

Krešimir KuËko Predsjednik Uprave President & CEO

SADRÆAJ CONTENTS

6 Razgovor: Diana Haller

SMISAO JE U RADU, A USPJEH JE SAMO POSLJEDICA Od poËetka svoje veÊ sada respektabilne meunarodne karijere, mlada hrvatska mezzosopranistica Diana Haller jednako je cijenjena kao vrsna koncertna pjevaËica i otprve karizmatiËna operna umjetnica. Interview: Diana Haller

IT’S ALL ABOUT WORK, SUCCESS IS ONLY THE RESULT From the beginning of her already respectable international career, the young Croatian mezzosoprano Diana Haller has been equally respected as an excellent concert singer and a charismatic opera singer.

16 Izložbe

26 Baština

GUERCINO, SVJETLO BAROKA

NOVE AKVIZICIJE I DAROVNICE U MODERNOJ GALERIJI

Ova jedinstvena izloæba moæe se razgledati u zagrebaËkome Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt do 31. sijeËnja 2015.

U protekle dvije godine galerijske zbirke obogaÊene su s viπe od sto prvorazrednih slikarskih i kiparskih djela

Exhibitions

IL GUERCINO − THE LIGHT OF THE BAROQUE This unique exhibition can be visited at Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts until 31st January 2015.

Zima/Winter 2014/2015

34 Graditeljsko naslijee

www.croatiaairlines.com

UZDIGNITE POGLED! Mnogi graditeljski svodovi, kao konstruktivni elementi, i u hrvatskoj arhitekturi predstavljaju primjere velikih vrijednosti. Architectural heritage

LOOK UP! As constructive elements, many architectural vaults also represent remarkable values in Croatian architecture.

CROATIA AIRLINES

Heritage

NEW ACQUISITIONS AND DONATIONS AT THE MODERN GALLERY Over the past two years, the Gallery’s collections have become richer for over 100 ﬁrst-class paintings and sculptures.

CROATIA AIRLINES

48 Obala

SADRÆAJ CONTENTS

RIVIJERA CRIKVENICA, ODMOR ZA DUŠU I TIJELO Krenete li na Kvarner, vaπa je neobilazna postaja Rivijera Crikvenica, koja Êe vas πarmirati veÊ pri prvome susretu. Coast

CRIKVENICA RIVIERA, BREAK FOR BODY AND SOUL If you are headed for Kvarner Bay, the Crikvenica Riviera is an unavoidable stop on your way which will charm you.

82 Zimski turizam

100 Kontinentalna Hrvatska

ROMANTI»NA OPATIJA

LIKA, MIRIS ŠUME, ÆUBOR VODE I PJEV PTICA

Zima je idealno vrijeme za upoznavanje Opatije, kad se snjeæni pokrivaË spusti sve do mora, a gradske kavane napune mirisom vruÊeg Ëaja i kave.

»ovjek i priroda ovdje u meusobnoj toleranciji egzistiraju tisuÊama godina. Inland Croatia

Winter tourism

ROMANTIC OPATIJA Winter is the perfect time to get to know Opatija at its best, when the snow cover descends all the way to the seafront and the town cafes are ﬁlled with the smell of hot tea and coffee.

LIKA, THE SCENT OF FOREST, MURMUR OF WATER AND SONG OF BIRDS Man and nature have mutually existed for thousands of years tolerant of one another.

116 Naπa odrediπta

PRELIJEPA NICA Lijepa Nica, Nissa la Bella, kraljica cvijeÊa, ne zna za predsezonu i posezonu. Ondje je uvijek sezona.

132 Moda

Our destinations

NESVAKIDAŠNJI MODNI LET

AMAZING NICE

Ravno prema obliænjoj modnoj pisti iz aviona Croatia Airlinesa iskoraËale su manekenke predstavljajuÊi aktualne modne trendove.

Amazing Nice, Nissa la Bella, the queen of ﬂowers, knows not of either pre- or post-season. It is always season in Nice.

Fashion

UNIQUE FASHION FLIGHT Models stepped out of a Croatia Airlines’ aircraft straight onto a nearby runway, presenting the latest fashion trends. Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak

This is your personal copy

154 Sport

HRVATSKA I SVJETSKA TENISKA ELITA OPET U ZAGREBU Od 2. do 8. veljaËe 2015. odræat Êe se jubilarni, deseti Indoors. Doite! Uæivajte! Sports

CROATIAN AND WORLD TENNIS ELITE AGAIN IN ZAGREB The tenth jubilee Indoors will take place between 2nd and 8th February 2015. Come and enjoy!

CROATIA AIRLINES

RAZGOVOR DIANA HALLER

CROATIA AIRLINES

Piπe/By Zlatko Madžar

Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

INTERVIEW DIANA HALLER

CROATIA AIRLINES

Od poËetka svoje veÊ sada respektabilne meunarodne karijere, mlada hrvatska mezzosopranistica Diana Haller, roena u Rijeci, jednako je cijenjena kao vrsna koncertna pjevaËica i otprve karizmatiËna operna umjetnica. S uvijek nasmijeπenom i susretljivom Dianom Haller razgovarali smo za njezina jednodnevnog boravka u Zagrebu, iz kojega je otputovala u New York na ponovni poziv tamoπnje Metropolitan opere. From the beginning of her already respectable international career, the young Croatian mezzo-soprano Diana Haller, born in Rijeka, has been equally respected as an excellent concert singer and an always charismatic opera singer. We spoke with the always smiling and friendly Diana Haller during her one-day visit to Zagreb, after which she travelled to New York following another invitation from the local Metropolitan Opera. 8

CROATIA AIRLINES

iana Haller školovala se na Konzervatoriju Giuseppe Tartini u Trstu i Kraljevskoj akademiji za glazbu u Londonu te na Visokoj πkoli za glazbu i scenske umjetnosti u Stuttgartu. Njezin nesvakidaπnji pjevaËki i scenski potencijal zarana je potvren nizom inozemnih i hrvatskih priznanja: meunarodna Nagrada Belcanto (2011.), pobjeda na Meunarodnom natjecanju Hugo Wolf (2012.), Nagrada ZagrebaËke ﬁlharmonije Mlada glazbenica godine (2013.), Nagrada Ivo VuljeviÊ Hrvatske glazbene mladeæi (2013.)… Godine 2010. postala je Ëlanicom Dræavne opere u Stuttgartu, gdje je − nakon nekoliko sjajno apsolviranih velikih uloga − 2013. zablistala kao Angelina u Rossinijevoj operi Pepeljuga, za πto je dobila osobito priznanje: ugledni njemaËki Ëasopis Opernwelt proglasio ju je Mladom pjevaËicom godine, a odluku o tome donio je reprezentativan skup od pedeset europskih i ameriËkih glazbenih kritiËara. Tako strelovit i rani uspon Diane Haller u vrh meunarodne pjevaËke scene nedvosmisleno potvruju veÊ i naslovi inozemnih kritiËkih panegirika, poput, primjerice, ovih: MladenaËki πarm i toplo pastozan raskoπan glas, UmjetniËka zrelost kakvu nadasve rijetko nalazimo u toj dobnoj skupini, Prirodna karizma i glasovni sjaj ili pak Poduka iz belkanta, a glazbena kritiËarka Irene Konstantin u novinama Neues Deutschland 6. srpnja 2013. kategoriËno je ustvrdila: NadmoÊna u naslovnoj ulozi Angeline bila je mlada hrvatska mezzosopranistica Diana Haller. TjelesnoπÊu i prirodnom karizmom, glasovnim sjajem i virtuoznoπÊu koloratura ona podsjeÊa na mladu Ceciliju Bartoli, a Ëak je i nadmaπuje lirskim umijeÊem piana u najviπim poloæajima. Prekrasno je kako njezina Pepeljuga upravo osvaja kolorature da bi na kraju u njima trijumfalno klicala. U svibnju ove godine Diana Haller bila je jedina zamjena za primadonu Joyce DiDonato u novoj produkciji Rossinijeve opere Pepeljuga u njujorπkoj Metropolitan operi, a zatim je, kao Ines u Verdijevom Trubaduru, uspjeπno debitirala na Salzbuπkim sveËanim igrama, gdje je bila partnerica najveÊim pjevaËkim zvijezdama danaπnjice − sopranistici Ani Netrebko i tenoru Placidu Domingu. S uvijek nasmijeπenom i susretljivom Dianom Haller razgovarali smo za njezina jednodnevnog boravka u Zagrebu, iz kojega je otputovala u New York na ponovni poziv tamoπnje Metropolitan opere. ■ ProËitao sam negdje da Vas je veÊ u ranoj dobi otprve zaokupila upravo klasiËna glazba; je li to istina? − Da, zaista je bilo tako. Bilo mi je πest godina kada sam sa svojim stricem Robertom

Hallerom poËela uËiti svirati na klaviru. U svakodnevici mog djetinjstva bilo je to Ëudesno otkriÊe jednoga posve novog svijeta. UæivajuÊi u opËinjavajuÊem nizanju zvukova, tada, dakako, nisam mogla spoznati pravu veliËinu klasiËne glazbe, ali osjetila sam da je to neπto posebno, za πto sam otprve poæeljela da zauvijek postane dijelom mog æivota. Premda sam svijet kazaliπta i opere otkrila veÊ kao jedanaestogodiπnjakinja, tek sam u sedamnaestoj godini shvatila kako me od sjedenja za klavirom joπ viπe privlaËi pjevanje, i kako Êu − komunicirajuÊi glasom − najpotpunije moÊi izraziti sve ono πto sam u klasiËnoj glazbi tako intenzivno doæivljavala. Bila je to konaËna odluka, kojoj je gotovo sve drugo u mom æivotu otada posve podreeno. ■ Vaπe glazbeno πkolovanje u Rijeci, Trstu, Londonu i Stuttgartu bilo je neuobiËajeno dugo i vrlo temeljito. »ini se da na izabranome umjetniËkome putu veÊ od poËetka niπta niste æeljeli prepustiti sluËaju. − Pjevanje sam poËela uËiti sasvim sluËajno, kada mi je moja profesorica klavira predloæila da − zbog πto boljeg voenja fraze na klaviru − poËnem uËiti i pjevanje. U rodnome gradu Rijeci tako sam zavrπila i klavirski i pjevaËki odsjek. Svoju prvu pjevaËku diplomu stekla sam na Konzervatoriju Giuseppe Tartini u Trstu, a zatim sam se usavrπavala na Kraljevskoj akademiji za glazbu u Londonu i naposljetku u majstorskom razredu prof. Dunje VejzoviÊ na Visokoj πkoli za glazbu u Stuttgartu, gdje sam ubrzo postala Ëlanicom tamoπnje Dræavne opere. Ali poslije se ispostavilo kako su te naporne godine uËenja bile tek blagom pripremom za moj profesionalni opstanak u stvarnome svijetu opere, u kojemu sam se odmah poËela suoËavati s kojekakvim preprekama. Naime, lijepo je pjevati u svojoj sobi i pritom naivno sanjariti o buduÊoj glazbeniËkoj karijeri, no to vas nikako ne moæe pripremiti za sve ono πto Êe vas − u obliku raznoraznih iskuπenja − jednoga dana doËekati u konkretnome profesionalnome angaæmanu. Ako veÊ u tim prvim samostalnim koracima ne spoznate πto toËno æelite napraviti od vlastitog æivota i kojim toËno putem kao umjetnik morate iÊi, onda lako moæete postati ærtvom samoobmane i zahiriti na stranputicu. A da vam se takvo πto ne bi dogodilo, jedino moæe sprijeËiti danonoÊan rad na sebi i stalno samokritiËko preispitivanje. Tko nije svikao uËiti na vlastitim greπkama i uvijek iznova pobjeivati samoga sebe, taj Êe pokleknuti pred prvim velikim umjetniËkim zadacima, za ostvarenje kojih nisu dostatni samo od Boga lijep glas i priroena muzikalnost.

■ ©to Vas osobito potiËe i motivira u umjetniËkome radu, jesu li to moæda znaËajne nagrade i bezrezervne pohvale meunarodne kritike, koje Vas prate od poËetka? − Sve te nagrade i pohvale doæivljavam samo kao stanovitu potvrdu da se razvijam u pravome smjeru, ali to nikako nisu moji primarni motivi, ili, ne daj mi to Boæe − Ëak i ciljevi. Moj cilj je sama glazba, i ona je ono jedino πto me u umjetniËkom radu istinski potiËe. PjevajuÊi, ja æivim za glazbu, za skladatelja i njegovo djelo koje u tom trenutku izvodim. U Ëesto povrπnome svijetu danaπnjice mnogima je postao najvaæniji jedino novac. Premda se bez tog papira nikako ne moæe æivjeti, ipak nema tog novca koji bi vas mogao trajno usreÊiti i donijeti vam osjeÊaj potpunog ispunjenja. Doista, ja sam najsretnija u onim trenucima kad osjetim da poËinjem razotkrivati pravo znaËenje neke umjetniËke skladbe, ali da bih u toj svojoj glazbeniËkoj sreÊi neometano mogla uæivati, nuždan je preduvjet, dakako, i to da mi zbog praznog novËanika nije i æeludac prazan. Isto tako, nema tog novca kojime bi se mogla platiti radost jednoga jedinoga dana provedenoga s obitelji. Dakle, ono πto me u æivotu istinski ispunjava i potiËe jesu obitelj i glazba. ■ Ugledni njemaËki Ëasopis Opernwelt proglasio Vas je 2013. PjevaËicom godine u cijelome svijetu, a nakon štutgartske premijere Rossinijeve opere Pepeljuga nekolicina uglednih glazbenih kritiËara usporedila Vas je s mladom Cecilijom Bartoli, dajuÊi Vam Ëak i prednost!... Je li se zbog svega toga neπto promijenilo u Vaπem odnosu prema radu, glazbenim kolegama, pa i æivotnim prijateljima? − Uvelike su se umnoæile moje profesionalne obveze. To je ono πto se promijenilo, a sve drugo kod mene je i sada ostalo posve isto. Niπta ne radim zbog slave, a sve veÊem zanimanju meunarodne glazbene javnosti za mene radujem se jedino stoga πto se tako poveÊava broj onih koji sada mogu Ëuti i prepoznati πto ja to zapravo radim. Proπirio se krug mojih sluπatelja, i to je ta velika promjena koju ja ponajprije doæivljavam kao obvezu da uvijek budem na visini svoga umjetniËkog zadatka. ■ Proπle ste godine bili jedinom zamjenom za primadonu Joyce DiDonato u njujorπkoj Metropolitan operi. Pretpostavljam da je to bilo vrlo dragocjeno iskustvo? − Naravno! Svako iskustvo, bilo ono dobro ili loπe, jednako mi je dragocjeno, jer samo na osnovi razliËitih iskustava moæete se razvijati i rasti kao umjetnik, ali i kao osoba. Veliko je iskustvo bilo veÊ i to πto sam − aktivno

sudjelujuÊi na svim muziËkim i scenskim pokusima − iznutra mogla spoznati kako u procesu stvaranja predstave funkcionira najveÊa operna kuÊa svijeta. ■ Minulog ljeta debitirali ste na SveËanim igrama u Salzburgu, gdje ste kao Ines u Verdijevu Trubaduru bili partnerica Anni Netrebko i Placidu Domingu. Kakvi su oni kolege? Jesu li Vam te predstave, ostvarene uz planetarno slavne kolege i orkestar BeËkih ﬁlharmoniËara, bile stresne, a i inaËe − kako se nosite s tremom? − Netrebko i Domingo veliki su umjetnici, a pokazali su se i kao divni kolege. Nakon nekoliko zajedniËkih pokusa najednom shvatite da su i oni obiËni ljudi, a k tomu joπ i veoma dragi, te da nemate nijednog razloga da budete pod stresom. No ono πto kod mladog pjevaËa moæe prouzroËiti stanovitu nervozu jest spoznaja da vas sluπaju vrlo zahtjevni glazbeni kritiËari i isto takvi ljubitelji opere, koji su u Salzburg, primjerice, doputovali Ëak s drugih kontinenata samo zato da bi doæivjeli tu pompozno najavljivanu izvedbu Verdijeva Trubadura. Ne mogu reÊi da sam bila prestraπena, ali prije poËetka premijere ipak sam osjeÊala neku zdravu nervozu, jer u takvim golemim meunarodnim opernim produkcijama u vas su ipak uprte oËi cijeloga svijeta, bez obzira na to u kojoj ulozi nastupate. ■ Po Ëemu se te ugledne svjetske produkcije razlikuju od glazbeno scenskih projekata koje ste radili u drugim, manje poznatim opernim kuÊama? − Razlika je ponajprije u pristupu redatelja. Kad rade s istinskim opernim zvijezdama, poput Ane Netrebko i Placida Dominga, onda oni te velike umjetnike puste da svoje uloge posve samostalno scenski uobliËe. No mladim i joπ nedovoljno poznatim pjevaËima − Ëak i onima koji su glumaËki vrlo nadareni − ti poznati redatelji nikad ne dopuπtaju ni najmanju glumaËku slobodu. To je, recimo, mana tih velikih opernih produkcija u njujorπkome Metropolitanu i na Salzburπkome festivalu, ali ondje imate povlasticu da nastupate uz fenomenalne orkestre, πto je svakom pjevaËu naposljetku ipak najvaænije. Samo uz takvo, doslovce savrπeno orkestralno muziciranje, najednom osjetite kako se moæete upustiti u mnoπtvo novih interpretacijskih nijansi, πto uz neki prosjeËan orkestar jednostavno nije moguÊe. Ako bi nam u toj vrlo kompleksnoj priËi najvaænija stavka uvijek morala biti glazbeno savrπenstvo neke operne izvedbe, onda su orkestar BeËkih ﬁlharmoniËara i ansambl Metropolitan opere zacijelo one najbolje umjetniËke adrese. ■ Danas u svijetu ima priliËno darovitih mladih pjevaËa, no mnogi od njih ni-

kada ne dobiju pravu priliku u pravome trenutku, a poslije ih, dakako, veÊ dræe prestarima za poËetak ozbiljne karijere. Vi ste zarana dospjeli u prvi plan, Ëemu je moæda pripomogla i neka sretna okolnost. Ali takve iznenadne prilike za aﬁrmaciju lako se mogu pretvoriti u poguban korak natrag, zar ne? − Premda je puka sreÊa imala veliku ulogu u mojim pjevaËkim poËecima, nikad se nisam uzdala u trajnu naklonost prevrtljive boæice Fortune. Moæda bih mogla reÊi da je ova dosadaπnja uspjeπnost posljedicom moje bezostatne predanosti glazbi, upornog rada i bespoπtedne samokritike. Svaki put, koji bi nas moæda mogao i uzdiÊi do zvjezdanih glazbenih sfera − posut je s mnogo trnja. Po tim stazama morate moÊi hodati, uvijek iznova, uvijek ispoËetka… Dok su moji studijski kolege u Trstu, Londonu i Stuttgartu nesputano uæivali u svome mladenaËkome æivotu, ja sam se danonoÊno bavila glazbom. I nije mi æao zbog toga. Mislim da nisam niπta propustila, jer taj radni naËin æivota zaista me je do kraja ispunjavao i Ëinio sretnom, a to se ni danas nije nimalo promijenilo. Upravo stoga ja se i usuujem preuzeti neke rizike, iako sam potpuno svjesna i toga da nikad ne mogu biti 100 posto sigurna u konaËni ishod. No ono πto baπ nikad ne prepuπtam sluËaju jest krajnje temeljita priprema svakog opernog nastupa, svake koncertne veËeri, svake audicije, pa i pokusa… ■ S podjednakom se predanoπÊu bavite i operom i koncertnim pjevanjem, u kojemu pak − što se Vas tiËe − sasvim posebno mjesto pripada umjetniËkoj popijevci. Kako pomirujete te vrlo razliËite glazbene discipline, i zaπto tako silno volite Lied? − Da bih mogla biti aktivna na svakome od tih triju veoma razliËitih glazbenih podruËja, moram ulagati puno vremena i veliku energiju, ali to mi ne pada teπko, jer sav taj repertoar odreda to zavrjeuje. Ne bih se mogla odreÊi nijedne od tih disciplina koje mi podjednako ispunjuju duπu, i koje mi samo zdruæene pruæaju osjeÊaj umjetniËke doreËenosti. Recitali Lieda tako su mi dragi jer u tome krajnje proËiπÊenom obliku muziciranja svoj glazbeni doæivljaj mogu najneposrednije prenijeti koncertnoj publici, i pritom tu nema nikakvog dirigenta ili redatelja, koji vam u operi mogu pomoÊi, ali katkad i − odmoÊi. Lied je veoma zahtjevno izvedbeno podruËje, na kojemu pjevaË i pijanist moraju, kako bi se to reklo, disati istim dahom. Veoma mi je drago πto sam upravo takvoga glazbenog istomiπljenika pronaπla u svome rodnom gradu, a to je sjajni rijeËki pijanist Filip Fak. CROATIA AIRLINES

■ Koji Vas znaËajniji operni i koncertni nastupi oËekuju u skorije vrijeme? − Ova sezona bit Êe puna razliËitih nastupa. U Zagrebu Êu pod vodstvom maestra TonËija BiliÊa nastupiti u Händelovom oratoriju Dixit Dominus, a zatim Êu na Filharmonijskom balu ZagrebaËke ﬁlharmonije pod ravnanjem maestra Ive LipanoviÊa otpjevati nekoliko arija iz opera Gioachina Rossinija. Od nastupa u Hrvatskoj svakako me najviπe raduje operni gala koncert, πto Êe napokon biti moj pravi debi u rodnome gradu Rijeci. U Stuttgartu Êu ove sezone ponovno biti solistica u Pjesmi o Zemlji Gustava Mahlera, a u Edinburghu i Glasgowu oËekuju me izvedbe Mozartova Requiema pod ravnanjem maestra Philippea Herreweghea, s kojim sam veÊ divno suraivala. U Dræavnoj operi u Stuttgartu tijekom aktualne sezone nastupam u svojim starim ulogama (Angelina u Rossinijevoj Pepeljugi i Fenena u Verdijevom Nabuccu), a zatim me na mojoj matiËnoj sceni oËekuju dvije ovosezonske premijere: Rossinijev Seviljski brijaË u kojemu pjevam ulogu Rosine, a zatim i Mozartova opera Così fan tutte u kojoj Êu tumaËiti ulogu Dorabelle. Uza sve to u Zagrebu snimam svoj prvi recital Lieda i participiram u velikome diskografskom projektu Hrvatska umjetniËka popijevka od poËetka devetnaestog do druge polovice dvadesetog stoljeÊa… Tako intenzivan tempo meni zapravo jedino i godi, jer jednostavno ne podnosim besposlicu. ■ Pretpostavljam da svoje umjetniËke ciljeve planirate uvelike unaprijed. Kako zamiπljate daljnji razvoj svoje pjevaËke karijere? − Dakako, u ovome trenutku ne mogu sa sigurnoπÊu znati πto Êe se u iduÊim godinama dogaati s mojim glasom i u kojemu Êe se smjeru on nastaviti razvijati... No voljela bih da jednoga dana poËnem nastupati i u teæim, dramski naglaπenijim Verdijevim ulogama, kao πto su to: Amneris u Aidi, Eboli u Don Carlosu, pa moæda Ëak i Lady Macbeth u majstorovu Macbethu. No da se to jednoga dana eventualno i dogodi, morat Êe proteÊi joπ neke lijepe godine, a ja, eto, veÊ sada razmiπljam na koji bih naËin u svojoj zreloj dobi mogla pridonositi razvoju mladih ljudi, promicanju kulture i poboljπanju obrazovnog sustava moje domovine Hrvatske... Ako se jednoga dana tome uistinu i posvetim, vjerujte mi, onda neÊu zazirati ni od politiËkog angaæmana, pokaæe li se i to potrebnim. ■ Kako podnosite neprestana putovanja, samovanje u hotelskim sobama, stalne promjene klimatskih i vremenskih zona? − Æivot umjetnika, hmm?... Zamoran je to i veoma iscrpljujuÊi æivot stalnoga glazbenoga skitnice, ali kad tu i tamo ipak klonete, onda 10

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vam snagu ponovno vrati upravo ta ista glazba, zbog koje se zapravo jedino toliko i trapite. ■ MuËi li Vas katkad Ëeænja za Rijekom, tamoπnjim prijateljima i roditeljskim domom? − Uvelike mi nedostaju moja obitelj, moji prijatelji, moja Rijeka i njezin Mrtvi kanal... ■ Veoma su zanimljivi i Vaπi obiteljski korijeni? − Prezime Haller vjerojatno potjeËe s nekoga njemaËkoga govornoga podruËja u AustroUgarskoj Monarhiji; s oËeve strane u naπoj obitelji ima i sicilijanske krvi, a s majËine dalmatinske… ■ A πto je od svega toga prevladalo kod Vas? − Od svega sam poneπto pokupila, a sebe bih popriliËno toËno mogla opisati kao neobiËnu mjeπavinu germanske radne discipline, sicilijanskog temperamenta i hrvatskog ponosa. . iana Haller received her education at the Giuseppe Tartini Conservatory of Music in Trieste, the Royal Academy of Music in London, and the State University of Music and Performing Arts in Stuttgart. Her extraordinary vocal and stage potential was conﬁrmed early through numerous international and Croatian awards: the International Bel Canto Award (2011), the

Hugo Wolf International Competition (2012), the Zagreb Philharmonic’s Best Young Musician of the Year Award (2013), The Croatian Music Youth Award Ivo VuljeviÊ (2013)..In 2010, Diana Haller became a member of the State Opera in Stuttgart, where after a few brilliantly performed major roles in 2013, she shone as Angelina in Rossini’s opera Cinderella, which earned her special recognition: Opernwelf, a respected German magazine, named her Young Singer of the Year; this was a decision made by a representative assembly of ﬁfty European and American music critics. The rapid and early ascent of Diane Haller to the very top of the international singing scene is even unequivocally supported by the international critic panegyrics’ headlines, such as, for example, the following: Youthful charm and a warm, rich, sumptuous voice, Artistic maturity rarely found in this age group, Natural charisma and vocal brilliance or A lecture in bel canto, while in the Neues Deutschland newspaper on July 6, 2013, the music critic Irene Konstantin, categorically stated: The young Croatian mezzo-soprano Diana Haller was superior in the title role of Angeline. With her corporeality and natural charisma, vocal brilliance and virtuosity in the coloratura, she reminds us of the young Cecilia Bartoli, and even surpasses her with the lyrical skills

of a piano in its highest positions. It is just wonderful how Cinderella just conquers the coloratura only to end up triumphantly rejoicing in them. In May of this year, Diana Haller was the only replacement for the leading lady Joyce DiDonato, in the new production of Rossini’s opera Cinderella in New York’s Metropolitan Opera, and then, as Ines in Verdi’s Troubadour, she successfully debuted in The Salzburg Festival as a partner to the biggest singing stars of today − soprano Anna Netrebko and tenor Placido Domingo. We spoke with the always smiling and friendly Diana Haller during her one-day visit to Zagreb, after which she travelled to New York following another invitation from the local Metropolitan Opera. ■ I read somewhere that you were already attracted to classical musical at an early age. Is this true? − Yes, it really was like that! I was six years old when I started learning to play the piano with my uncle Robert Haller. In childhood, everyday life was an amazing discovery of a completely new world. In enjoying the mesmerising sounds of stringed instruments, although then I could not possibly appreciate the true greatness of classical music, I still felt that it represented something special, and I wanted to make it become part of my life forever. Although as an eleven-year-old I had already discovered the world of theatre and opera, it was not until the age of seventeen that I realized that I was more attracted to singing than sitting before the piano, and that in communicating through my voice I would best be able to express everything that I experienced so intensively in classical music. It was a final decision, which has made almost everything else in my life since then second place. ■ Your musical training in Rijeka, Trieste, London, and Stuttgart was unusually lengthly and very thorough; it seems that from the very beginning you did not want to leave anything to chance on your chosen artistic path? − I started learning to sing by accident, when my piano teacher suggested that − for better musical phrase control on the piano − I should start learning to sing as well. In Rijeka, my home town, I graduated from the Piano and Voice Department. I earned my first diploma in Vocal Performance at the Giuseppe Tartini Conservatory of Music in Trieste, and then I studied at the Royal Academy of Music in London, and finally in the master class of Prof. Dunja VejzoviÊ at the Hochschule für Musik in Stuttgart, where I soon became a member of the local State Opera. Later, however, it turned out that those intense years of study had

been only light preparation for my professional survival in the real world of opera, where I immediately began to face all sorts of obstacles. Namely: it is nice to sing in your room and naively dream about your future music career, but that can never prepare you for everything that you will − in the form of various temptations − one day come across in a particular professional engagement. If in these first independent steps you do not know exactly what you would like to do with your life and what path you have to take as an artist, then you can easily become a victim of self-deception and lose your bearings. And such a thing can only be prevented by working on yourself night and day and constantly analysing yourself. Those who are not used to learning from their own mistakes and surpassing themselves over and over will succumb to the first great artistic tasks that require more than just a God-given beautiful voice and innate musicality! ■ What is it that especially encourages and motivates you in your art; is it perhaps the significant awards and unreserved praises of international critics that have been accompanying you from the very beginning? − I take all of these awards and praises only as a sort of confirmation that I am evolving in the right direction, but they are certainly not my main motives, or, God forbid, goals even?! My goal is the music itself, and it is the only thing that truly motivates me in my artistic work. Through singing, I live for the music, the composer and his or her work − the work that I am performing in at that very moment. In the often superficial world of today, the only important thing for many people is money. Although you cannot live without it, no amount of money in the world can make you happy forever and bring you a feeling of complete fulfilment. Indeed, I am happiest in those moments when I feel that I am beginning to uncover the true meaning of a musical composition. However, to fully enjoy that musical happiness, a necessary prerequisite would certainly be that my stomach be not empty because of my wallet! Likewise, there is no money in the world that can pay for the joy of a single day spent with your family. Thus, family and music are what truly completes my life and motivates me. ■ In 2013, the prestigious German magazine Opernwelt named you Singer of the Year out of the whole world, and after the Stuttgart premiere of Rossini’s opera Cinderella, a handful of prominent music critics compared you to the young Cecilia Bartoli, even giving you the advantage over her!... Has anything changed in your

relationship with your work, your music colleagues, and friends? − My professional obligations have multiplied greatly. This is what has changed, and everything else about me has stayed exactly the same. I’m not doing anything for fame, and the growing interest of an international music audience for myself makes me happy only because it increases the number of those who can now hear and recognize what I am doing. The circle of listeners has expanded, and I primarily see that big change as a duty to always be at the top of my game. ■ Last year, you were the only replacement for the leading lady, Joyce DiDonato, in the New York Metropolitan Opera... I guess it was a very valuable experience? − Certainly! Any experience, good or bad, is equally precious to me, because you can only develop and grow as an artist and as a person through different experiences. A great experience has also been actively participating in all music and stage rehearsals, which has taught me, from the inside, how the biggest opera house in the world operates in the world of show business. ■ Last summer, you made your debut at the Salzburg Festival, where, as Ines in Verdi’s The Troubadour, you were a partner to Anna Netrebko and Placido Domingo. What are they like as colleagues? Were these performances with your globally famous colleagues and the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra stressful for you? Also, how do you deal with stage fright? − Netrebko and Domingo are great artists, and they have proved to be wonderful colleagues. After a few rehearsals together, you suddenly realize that they too are ordinary people, and very sweet as well, and there is no reason to feel nervous. But what could make a young singer a bit nervous is the realization that one is being listened to by very demanding music critics and opera fans who, for example, come to Salzburg even from other continents just to experience the showmanship of Verdi’s The Troubadour! I would not say I was scared, but before the premiere, I still felt a healthy nervousness because in such huge international opera productions, all eyes are pointed at you, no matter what role you are playing. ■ What makes this prestigious world production different from other music theatre projects that you have worked on, in less famous opera houses? − The difference can primarily be seen in the directors’ approach. When working with true opera stars such as Anna Netrebko and Placido Domingo, famous directors let CROATIA AIRLINES

these great artists play their roles out quite independently. But they never give any theatrical freedom to young and upcoming singers − even those who are very talented in theatre. This is, for example, a flaw of these huge opera productions such as at New York’s Metropolitan Opera or at the Salzburg Festival. However, you have the privilege of performing with fabulous orchestras, which is ultimately the most important thing for any singer. Only with a world-class orchestra, do you suddenly find yourself hearing many new interpretation nuances, which would not have been possible with a mediocre orchestra. If musical perfection of an opera performance is always the most important thing in this very complex story, then the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra and the ensemble of the Metropolitan Opera would certainly be the best places for this. ■ Today, there are many talented young singers in the world, but many of them never get the right opportunity at the right moment, and later, of course, they are already considered too old to start a serious career! You, however, came to the foreground very early on, which may have been helped by some good fortune, but such sudden opportunities for affirmation could easily lead to a fatal step backwards, right? − Although it was sheer luck that played a big role in the beginning of my singing career, I’ve never relied on the permanent favour of lady luck. Maybe I could say that my past success has been a result of my commitment to music, hard work and relentless self-criticism. There are always thorns on the path to greatness. You must be willing to walk the path over and over again... While my fellow students in Trieste, London and Stuttgart enjoyed their young lives, I have been doing music day and night. I do not regret that. I think I did not miss out on anything, because this working lifestyle has really made me feel complete and happy, and that hasn’t changed. That is why I also dare to take risks, although I am fully aware of the fact that I can never be 100% sure of the final outcome. But the thing that I never leave to chance is preparing thoroughly for every opera performance, every night of a concert, every audition, and even every rehearsal... ■ It is with equal commitment that you deal with opera and concert singing, in which − in your case − a very special place belongs to the art song; how do you reconcile these two very different music disciplines, and why do you love Lied so much? 12

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− In order to be active in each of these three very different musical fields, I have to invest a lot of time and an incredible amount of energy into it, which I do not mind, because this entire repertoire deserves it. I could not give up any of these disciplines as they equally complete my soul, and I get a sense of artistic completeness only when they are united. Recitals of the Lied are so dear to me because in that extremely purified form of playing music, I can most directly transfer my musical experience to the concert audience, without a maestro or director, who could help you but also harm you in opera. Lied is a very demanding performance, where the singer and the pianist must, as they say: breathe the same air. I am very glad that I found a musician in my home town who shares my opinion on music, and it is Rijeka’s brilliant pianist Filip Fak. ■ What major opera and concert performances are you expecting in the near future? − This season will be full of various performances. I will be performing in Zagreb in Händel’s oratorio Dixit Dominus under the direction of maestro TonËi BiliÊ, and then I will be singing a few arias from Gioachino Rossini’s operas at the Philharmonic Ball of the Zagreb Philharmonic Orchestra under the baton of maestro Ivo LipanoviÊ. Of all the performances in Croatia, I am certainly most looking forward to the Opera Gala Concert, which will finally be my real debut in my home town Rijeka. This season in Stuttgart, I will once again be a soloist in Gustav Mahler’s The Song of the Earth, while in Edinburgh and Glasgow, I am expecting to be in performances of Mozart’s Requiem under the baton of maestro Philippe Herreweghe, with whom I have already wonderfully collaborated. During the current season, I will be playing my old role (Angelina in Rossini’s Cinderella and Fenena in Verdi’s Nabucco), at the State Opera in Stuttgart and then at home, I am performing in two of this season’s premieres: Rossini’s The Barber of Seville in which I sing the role of Rosina, and in Mozart’s opera Così fan tutte in which I will be interpreting the role of Dorabella. In addition to all of that, I am recording my first recital from Lied in Zagreb and participating in a big discography project: The Croatian Art Song from the Early Nineteenth to the Second Half of the Twentieth Century... I actually enjoy a tempo of this intensity because I just cannot stand idleness. ■ I suppose you set your artistic goals far in advance... how do you picture further development of your singing career? − At this moment, I certainly cannot know for sure what is going to happen with my voice

and in which direction it is going to develop in the coming years... But I would love to start performing one day in more difﬁcult and more dramatically enhanced roles, such as in Verdi’s Aida as Amneris, and in Don Carlos as Eboli, and perhaps even Lady Macbeth in the master’s Macbeth. But for that to eventually happen one day, some years will have to go by, and I am, you see, already thinking about how I can contribute to the development of young people, the promotion of culture, and the improvement of my homeland’s education system in my later years... If one day I actually commit to it, trust me, I will not even shy away from politics, if it proves ﬁtting! ■ How do you handle constant travel, sleeping in hotel rooms alone, constant climate and time zone changes?... − The artist’s life, hmm?... The life of a vagabond musician is tiresome and very exhausting, but when you lose your strength here and there, you regain it again through that same music, which is the reason why you wear yourself out so much. ■ Do you sometimes long for Rijeka, your friends from there and your family home? − I greatly miss my family, my friends, my Rijeka and its Dead Channel... ■ Your family roots are also very interesting? − The surname Haller probably derives from a German-speaking area of the Austria-Hungarian Monarchy; there is Sicilian blood from my father’s side of the family, and Dalmatian blood from my mother’s side... ■ And which of your family roots is predominant? − I have picked up a bit of everything and I like to describe myself as someone having an unusual combination of German work ethic, a Sicilian temperament and Croatian pride. ■

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also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.

To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËnu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2011. godine, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima. Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica − kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. prosinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine. Hrvatska je od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica Europske unije. This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. According to the 2011 census, Croatia’s population was 4,284,889. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The ofﬁcial language is Croatian, and the ofﬁcial script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova. National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice 14

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Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima iz svih ra zdoblja, zbog burnih povijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja ra zliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karak teriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog ra zdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakralna baπtina te niz oËuvanih karak teristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je sred njoe uropsko ga kul tur nog kruga i isti Ëe se mnogim prapovijesnim nala zima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitek turom iz ra zdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine. A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of influences of different cultures. Its coast is characterized by the influences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monuments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental complexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik. The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − najveÊe turistiËko iznenaenje te hit-odrediπte na Sredozemlju. Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, priobalje te kontinentalni dio zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u 2013. godini u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima zabilježili su oko 12,442.000 turista, od kojih je stranih oko 10,955.000. Turisti su ostvarili u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima oko 64,828.000 noÊenja. Hoteli, turistiËka naselja i apartmani, hosteli, kampovi, sobe i apartmani u kuÊanstvima te ostale vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim standardima. Bogata je kulturna ponuda, kongresna i wellnes ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, charter ponuda (iznajmljivanje plovila za razonodu i sport), kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih i biciklistiËkih staza, vinske ceste, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti… Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja, nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluau toce sta Hrvatska je bliæa ne go ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mno gih hrvatskih oto ka, pri jevoz trajek tom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od sva kod nevi ce mi lja ma i mi lja ma daleko... Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has be en a hit de stination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international exper ts in tourism. According to data from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, the Croatian tourist destinations located on the islands, along the coast and in the continental part of the country, including the capital city of Zagreb, recorded roughly 12.4 million tourists in commercial accommodation facilities in 2013, of whom around 10.9 were foreign tourists. Tourists realized about 64,828,000 overnight stays. Hotels, tourist villages and apartments, hostels, camps, rooms and apartments in private homes and other forms of accommodation, such as modern nautical centres, are equipped in line with international standards. There is a rich cultural offer, together with the congress and wellness offer, sport-recreation and entertainment contents, the charter offer (renting sailing vessels for leisure and sport), many kilometres of well-groomed walking and cycling paths, wine roads, sightseeing

excursions that include natural and cultural treasures... Novac i naËin plaÊanja Ku na je na ziv novËa ne je di ni ce Re pu bli ke Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp). NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima − 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac − 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima.

Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Ku na (kn). In cir cu la ti on are ban knotes in Ku na and co ins in Ku na and Li pa (lp) ∑ one hun dredth of a Ku na. The ban knotes are issu ed in the fol lowing de no mi na ti ons: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Ku na, whi le the de no mi na ti on struc tu re of the co ins is 1, 2 and 5 Ku na and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Li pa (100 Li pa = 1 Ku na). Pay men ts can be made by cre dit card (Di ners, Vi sa, Ame ri can Ex pre ss, Eu ro card and Ma stercard), as well as eu ro-chec ks. Ca sh can be wit hdrawn from AT Ms.

Kartografski laboratorij Križovan

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Izravne domaÊe linije Direct domestic routes Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalne / regular sezonske ljetne / seasonal in summer

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Giovanni Francesco Barbieri − Guercino (1591. − 1666.) Propovijed svetog Ivana Krstitelja, 1650./Saint John the Baptist Preaching, 1650 ∂ Pinacoteca Civica di Cento

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IZLOŽBE EXHIBITIONS Ova jedinstvena izložba može se razgledati u zagrebaËkome Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt This unique exhibition can be seen at Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts

Piše/By Vesna LediÊ, Jasmina FuËkan Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

Nakon proπlogodiπnje uspjeπnice Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt S Caravaggiom u Europu − VeËera u Emausu iz milanske Pinakoteke, koja je bila svojevrsni dar Italije Hrvatskoj u povodu njezina ulaska u Europsku uniju, ove godine Republika Italija obiljeæava svoje predsjedanje VijeÊem Europske unije nizom vrhunskih kulturnih dogaanja, a veliko finale pripada jedinstvenoj izloæbi − Guercino: Svjetlo baroka u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt u Zagrebu. After last year’s Museum of Arts and Crafts’ success With Caravaggio in Europe − Supper at Emmaus from Pinacoteca di Brera of Milan, which was a gift of sorts of the Republic of Italy to the Republic of Croatia on the occasion of Croatia’s accession to the European Union, this year Italy is marking its presidency of the Council of the European Union with a series of first-rate cultural events, the grand finale of which is a unique exhibition − Il Guercino: The Light of the Baroque at the Museum of Arts and Crafts of Zagreb. bog odliËnih politiËkih, trgovinskih i kulturnih odnosa Italije i Hrvatske, dugogodiπnje suradnje zagrebaËkih muzejsko-galerijskih ustanova sa srodnim institucijama u Italiji, ali i hvalevrijednog truda Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt, te znaËajne potpore Privredne banke Zagreb, PBZ Card i ENI Hrvatska, hrvatska javnost prvi put ima priliku vidjeti djela jednoga od najveÊih talijanskih baroknih slikara − Giovannija Francesca Barbierija, poznatijega kao Il Guercino.

Nadimak Guercino, pod kojim je u povijest europske umjetnosti upisano ime jednoga od najpoznatijih i utjecajnijih umjetnika talijanskog baroka Giovannija Francesca Barbierija (1591. − 1666.), u svom znaËenju otkriva ironiju kojom sudbina Ëesto odreuje tijek zbivanja. Naime, Giovanni Francesco Barbieri, prozvan Guercino (razroki) zbog karakteristiËnog strabizma, roen u malome gradu Centu, smjeπtenom izmeu Ferarre i Bologne, bio je generaciju mlai od danas poznatijeg Cara-

vaggia i jednako talentiran, no za razliku od njega ugodnije i mirne naravi sklone stvaranju Ëvrstih i dugotrajnih druπtvenih veza. Talent, koji se pokazao zarana, u dobi od osam godina kada je naslikao fresku na proËelju oËeve kuÊe, do 30. godine veÊ je stasao u jasno izraæenu stvaralaËku liËnost, πto mu je, zbog rastuÊeg kruga vrlo utjecajnih naruËitelja, omoguÊilo πiru aﬁrmaciju izvan rodne regije Emilia Romagna i pristup najmoÊnijem umjetniËkom træiπtu toga doba − papinskom CROATIA AIRLINES

Giovanni Francesco Barbieri − Guercino (1591. − 1666.) Katedra svetog Petra, 1618./St. Peter’s Chair, 1618 ∂ Pinacoteca Civica di Cento

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Giovanni Francesco Barbieri − Guercino (1591. − 1666.) Bogorodica s Djetetom koje blagoslivlja, 1629./ The Madonna with Blessing Child, 1629 ∂ Pinacoteca Civica di Cento

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Giovanni Francesco Barbieri − Guercino (1591. − 1666. ) Bogorodica u adoraciji Djeteta sa sv. Petrom pokajnikom, sv. Karlom Boromejskim, anelom i darovateljom 1618./ The Madonna adoring the Child with the penitent St. Peter, St. Charles Borromeo, an angel and the donor, 1618 ∂ Pinacoteca Civica di Cento

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Giovanni Francesco Barbieri − Guercino (1591. − 1666.) Sveti Bernardin Sijenski i sveti Franjo Asiπki u molitvi pred Majkom Boæjom Loretskom, 1618./St. Bernardine of Siena and St. Francis of Assisi in Prayer before the Madonna of Loreto, 1618 ∂ Pinacoteca Civica di Cento

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Rimu. Iako je kratkotrajan boravak u Rimu (1621.−1623.) u bitnoj mjeri utjecao na njegov kasniji umjetniËki razvoj, Guercino je veÊi dio æivota, do preseljenja u Bolognu 1642. godine, proveo u rodnom gradu Centu, gdje je stvorio raznolik opus koji i danas privlaËi paænju istraæivaËa jer prelazi granice jednoznaËnog odreenja kategorije baroknog stila. Neka njegova djela smatraju se temeljnim dosezima unutar pojedinih segmenata; primjerice freska Aurora u Casino Ludovisi u Rimu i danas predstavlja uzor baroknoga iluzionistiËkog slikarstva, a slika Arkadijski pastiri/Et in Arcadia ego predstavlja jedinstvenu obradu moralistiËke teme karakteristiËne za 17. stoljeÊe s porukom memento mori. Za razliku od opore oπtrice Caravaggiova naturalizma, koji i danaπnjeg promatraËa Ëesto zapanjuje drskim upuÊivanjem u sirovu stranu stvarnosti, Guercino je gledateljima svoga doba znao ponuditi umivenu i prilagoenu verziju stvarnosti punu oduhovljenih strasti u bogatstvu Ëuvstvenih raspona od herojskog zanosa do suosjeÊajne blagosti. Upravo vjeπtinu balansiranja afektima u prikazu likova i stvaranju teatarskog naboja prizora, brojni struËnjaci smatraju najveÊom vrlinom Guercinove invencije. SaËuvana dokumentacija o Guercinovu poslovanju, Libro dei conti di Casa Barbieri, knjiga prihoda i rashoda kuÊe Barbieri, koja se danas Ëuva u Biblioteci arhigimnazije u Bologni, omoguÊuje uvid u posljednjih 37 godina slikareva æivota, tijekom kojih se uspio nametnuti kao vodeÊi bolonjski slikar europskoga glasa. Analiza ekonomskog aspekta æivota umjetnika, praÊenjem rasta cijena slika tijekom godina, omoguÊila je dublju spoznaju o njegovim poslovnim vjeπtinama prilagoavanja æeljama i ﬁnancijskim moguÊnostima naruËitelja. I opet za razliku od Caravaggiova burnog æivota punog potjere, Guercinov je æivot priliËno dobro dokumentiran zbog stabilnih okolnosti, a uzlazna linija meunarodnog uspjeha uvelike je pridonijela dugotrajnom djelovanju u lokalnoj sredini. Guercinova platna, freske i crteæi danas se Ëuvaju u privatnim i javnim zbirkama diljem svijeta, od SAD-a do Tokyja, a najveÊa svjetska zbirka njegovih djela kao i djela njegovih uËenika i sljedbenika nalazi se u Gradskoj pinakoteci u Centu, umjetnikovu zaviËaju. Izloæba Guercino − svjetlo baroka, koja se od 29. listopada 2014. do 31. sijeËnja 2015. može razgledati u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt u Zagrebu, donosi nam viπe od trideset djela od kojih veÊina dolazi upravo iz zbirke Pinakoteke u Centu, ali i iz Bologne i Rima. U fokusu odabira bila je æelja da se prikaæe Guercinova svestranost − tehniËka virtuoznost usavrπena u zidnom slikarstvu jednako kao i u tehnici ulja na oltarnim palama, crtaËka i koloristiËka

spretnost izraza u kompozicijama krajolika kao i sakralnih prikaza. Uz πiri prikaz ranijega majstorovog razdoblja, izloæba pruæa uvid u osobito zanimljivu promjenu tijekom kasnijega stvaralaËkog razvoja, obiljeæenu postupnim odmakom od naglaπeno barokne dramatske igre svjetlosnih uËinaka i dinamiËnoga scenskog aranæmana prema idealizaciji i pojednostavljivanju u klasiËnom duhu. Publika zagrebaËkog Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt, koja se joπ æivo sjeÊa proπlogodiπnje izloæbe Caravaggiove slike VeËera u Emausu, ove jeseni i zime ima jedinstvenu priliku za bliæe upoznavanje znaËajnog dijela opusa Guercina, umjetnika kojemu su se za æivota divili brojni suvremenici, slikari poput Ludovica Carraccija, Jacopa Palme mlaeg i Velázqueza, ali i moÊni dræavnici, poput engleskog kralja Charlesa I i francuske kraljice Marije de Medici ili πvedske kraljice Kristine, koja ga je posjetila u njegovu domu u Bologni 1655. godine. Poslije Zagreba, ova izloæba putuje u Tokyo i Sjedinjene AmeriËke Dræave kako bi se prikupila sredstva za obnovu Gradske Pinakoteke u Centu, koja je 2012. godine stradala u potresu. .

Giovanni Francesco Barbieri − Guercino (1591. − 1666. ) Rinaldo Corradino jaše mazgu, 1615. − 16./ Rinaldo Corradino riding a mule, 1615 − 16 ∂ Pinacoteca Civica di Cento

hanks to the excellent political, commercial and cultural relations between Italy and Croatia, the long-standing collaboration of Zagreb’s museums and galleries with similar institutions in Italy, as well as the commendable efforts of the Museum of Arts and Crafts, and signiﬁcant support by Privredna Banka Zagreb, PBZ Card and ENI Croatia, the Croatian public will have the opportunity to see the works of one of the greatest Italian Baroque painters for the ﬁrst time − Giovanni Francesco Barbieri, more widely known as Il Guercino.

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Benedetto Gennari (1633. − 1715.) Portret Guercina pokraj slike koja prikazuje Giovannija Battistu Manzinija, oko 1670./Portrait of Guercino with a painting of Giovanni Battista Manzini ulje na platnu/oil on canvas, 76 x 98 cm ∂ Pinacoteca Civica di Cento

Giovanni Francesco Barbieri − Guercino (1591. − 1666.) Uskrsli Krist ukazuje se Djevici Mariji, 1628./ The Resurrected Christ appears to the Virgin, 1628 ulje na platnu/oil on canvas, 260 x 179 cm ∂ Pinacoteca Civica di Cento

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The meaning of the nickname Il Guercino, under which one of the most famous and influential artists of the Italian Baroque Giovanni Francesco Barbieri (1591-1666) entered the history of European art, reveals the irony with which fate often defines the course of events. Namely, Giovanni Francesco Barbieri, called Il Guercino (cross-eyed) because of his characteristic strabismus, born in the small town of Cento located between Ferrara and Bologna, was a generation younger than the today more famous Caravaggio and equally talented. However, unlike Caravaggio, Il Guercino’s character was more pleasant, calm and had a disposition towards forming strong and long-lasting social relationships. His talent, which he showed at a very early age − as early as at the age of 8 when he painted a fresco on the facade of his father’s house − became a clearly defined creative personality by the age of 30, making it possible for him to, thanks to a growing circle of highly influential clients, achieve wider recognition beyond his native region of Emilia Romagna and to be given access to the then most powerful art market − papal Rome. Although a brief sojourn in Rome (1621-1623) did influence his later artistic development and significantly so, until he moved to Bologna in 1642 Il Guercino spent most of his life in his hometown of Cento, where he created a diverse oeuvre which continues to attract the attention of researchers even today because it transcends the unambiguous definition of the category of the Baroque style. Some of his works are considered to be masterpieces within individual segments; for example, the fresco Aurora in Casino Ludovisi in Rome is a model of the Baroque illusionist painting even today, and the painting The Shepherds of Arcadia (Et in Arcadia ego) represents a unique treatment of a moralistic theme characteristic of the 17th century with a memento mori message. Unlike the harsh edge of Caravaggio’s naturalism that often startles even the present-day observer through brazen references to the rawness of reality, Il Guercino knew how to offer the observers of his time a polished and adapted version of reality full of spiritualised passions in an abundance of emotional ranges from heroic fervour to compassionate gentleness. It is precisely the art of balancing the emotions in his depiction of characters and the creation of the theatrical charge of his scenes that many experts consider to be the greatest virtue of Il Guercino’s invention. The preserved documentation of Il Guercino’s dealings, Libro dei conti di Casa Barbieri, the book of incomes and expenses of the House of Barbieri, now kept in the Library of the Archaegymnasium in Bologna, provides insight into the last 37 years

of the painter’s life, during which he managed to establish himself as the leading Bologna painter with a Europe-wide reputation. An analysis of the economic aspect of the artist’s life, through inspecting the price increase of his paintings over the years, has facilitated a more profound understanding of his business skills of adapting to the wishes and financial capabilities of his patrons. And once again, in contrast to Caravaggio’s turbulent life full of pursuits, Il Guercino’s life is rather well-documented thanks to stable conditions, while the upward trend of his international success greatly contributed to his being long active locally. Il Guercino’s canvases, frescos and drawings are today kept in private and public collections around the world, from the USA to Tokyo, while the world’s largest collection of his works and those of his students and followers is located in the Municipal Art Gallery of Cento, the artist’s hometown. The Il Guercino − The Light of the Baroque exhibition, opening for visitors on 29 October 2014 and closing on 31 January 2015 at the Museum of Arts and Crafts of Zagreb, is staging more than thirty works, most of which come from the Art Gallery’s collection in Cento, but also from Bologna and Rome. The focus of the selection was on the desire to showcase Il Guercino’s versatility − technical virtuosity perfected in fresco painting, as well as in the oil painting technique used on altarpieces, his drawing and colouristic skill of expression in his landscape compositions and religious depictions. Along with offering a broader overview of the master’s early period, the exhibition provides insight into a particularly interesting change during his later creative development, marked by a gradual shift from the pronouncedly Baroque dramatic play of light effects and a dynamic scene arrangement to idealisation and simplification in the Classical sense. The audience of Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts who still vividly recall last year’s exhibition of Caravaggio’s painting Supper at Emmaus will have a rare opportunity this autumn to find out more about a significant part of Il Guercino’s oeuvre, the artist who was, during his lifetime, admired by numerous contemporaries, artists such as Ludovico Carracci, Jacopo Palma the Younger and Velasquez, but also by powerful statesmen such as the King of England Charles I and Queen of France Marie de Medici or Queen Christina of Sweden, who paid him a visit at his home in Bologna in 1655. After Zagreb, the exhibition is travelling to Tokyo and the United States aiming to raise funds for the restoration of the Municipal Art Gallery of Cento, which was destroyed in an earthquake in 2012. ■

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BAŠTINA HERITAGE

Miljenko StanËiÊ: Enfant, 1973.

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Gabrijel JurkiÊ: Put u VjeËnost/ Journey to Eternity, 1918.

27. 1. − 22. 2. 2015.

Piše/By Biserka Rauter PlanËiÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Goran VraniÊ

Stipan TadiÊ: Autoportret/ Self-portrait, 2009. CROATIA AIRLINES

Martina GrliÊ: World to come, 2012.

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Ivan KoæariÊ: PosveÊenje berberske keramike/ Consecration of Berber Ceramics, 2007.

Krsto HegeduπiÊ: Na Dravi/ On the Drava River, 1960.

Nikola Koydl: Portal - Homage à Carlo Scarpa, 2009.

Kontinuiranim popunjavanjem zbirki i redovitim izlaganjem novih akvizicija, stalni postav zagrebaËke Moderne galerije sve je raskoπnija antologija lijepih umjetnosti i nezaobilazno mjesto za produbljivanje znanja o vrhuncima likovnog stvaralaπtva u Hrvatskoj. By continuously extending its collections with new acquisitions and regularly exhibiting these new acquisitions, the permanent exhibition of the Modern Gallery in Zagreb is turning into an ever more delightful anthology of the ﬁne arts and a must on the list of places to be visited for those wishing to expand their knowledge of the pinnacles of artistic creation in Croatia. CROATIA AIRLINES

stalni postav omoguÊeno je cjelovitije spoznavanje opusa kljuËnih protagonista na prijelazu proπla dva stoljeÊa te rasvjetljavanje remekdjela iz JurkiÊevoga najplodnijeg razdoblja, koje ga uvrπtava u vrhunce simbolizma hrvatskoga, ali i srednjoeuropskoga likovnog kruga. Stipan TadiÊ: Autoportret Impostacija lika i prodorne oËi te neka sjetnost πto zraËi sa slike savrπeni su hommage Albrechtu Düreru, umjetnikovu uzoru. Slikar koji se postojano bavi portretom i u toj zahtjevnoj disciplini radi po starinski i sporo, πto nije Ëesto meu mladim umjetnicima, spremno se odazvao molbi Moderne galerije i za galerijski fundus suvremenoga hrvatskoga slikarstva darovao ovu sliku. Vlaho Bukovac: Umjetnikova kÊi u vrtu/ The Artist’s Daughter in the Garden, oko/around 1902.

proteke dvije godine galerijske zbirke obogaÊene su s viπe od sto prvorazrednih slikarskih i kiparskih djela, pribavljenih mahom darovnicama umjetnika i nasljednika njihovih ostavπtina, ali i otkupima koji su realizirani na temelju ﬁnancijskih potpora Zaklade Adris i Ministarstva kulture Republike Hrvatske. Tako je uvid u vrijednosti hrvatske moderne baπtine proπiren, primjerice, radovima velikana Vlahe Bukovca, Gabrijela JurkiÊa, Maksimilijana Vanke, Krste HegeduπiÊa, Miljenka StanËiÊa i brojnih vrsnih hrvatskih slikara 20. stoljeÊa. Od darovanih umjetnina za zbirke recentnoga likovnog stvaralaπtva izdvajamo instalaciju ingenioznoga i uvijek mladog Ivana KoæariÊa, fascinantni objekt Nikole Koydla te uljane slike barda novog pejzaæizma u suvremenom hrvatskom slikarstvu Josipa Pina Trostmanna, kao i radove mlaih autora Martine GrliÊ i Stjepana TadiÊa, umjetnika koji πtafelajnom slikarstvu vraÊaju primat, na radost publike i diku slikarskoga umijeÊa.

Miljenko StanËiÊ: Enfant Crteæ ugljenom na papiru iz 1973. otkupljen je iz privatne zbirke kolekcionara i slikarova galerista u Bruxellesu, koji je zasluæan za brojne StanËiÊeve izloæbe i promidžbu njegova osebujnoga nadrealistiËkog izraza u Belgiji. Gabrijel JurkiÊ: Put u VjeËnost Ova uljana slika nastala je 1918. i pripada u red paradigmatskih ostvarenja Gabrijela JurkiÊa. Otkupljena je od Vladimira JurkiÊa iz Pule, jednoga od nasljednika slikarove ostavπtine. Nakon πto je restaurirana u Modernoj galeriji, postala je dostupno kulturno dobro Republike Hrvatske, a njezinim uvrπtenjem u galerijski 30

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Martina GrliÊ: World to come Umjetnica koja je 2009. diplomirala na zagrebaËkoj Akademiji darovala je Modernoj galeriji uljanu sliku World to come iz 2012., koja predstavlja jedan od njezinih ponajboljih radova iz ciklusa fotorealistiËkih djela zavidnog metiera, u kojemu, s pozicije socijalno osjetljive umjetnice, progovara o zatvaranju tvornica i zatiranju simbola nedavne proπlosti. Ivan KoæariÊ: PosveÊenje berberske keramike Instalacija Ivana KoæariÊa, inovativnog barda hrvatskoga suvremenog kiparstva, kreirana je 2007. tijekom umjetnikova boravka u Rabatu. U fundus Moderne galerije prispjela je darovnicom Darka BekiÊa, tadaπnjeg veleposlanika Republike Hrvatske u Maroku. Krsto HegeduπiÊ: Na Dravi Antologijsko djelo slikara Krste HegeduπiÊa iz 1960. kruni slikarov tempo secondo i uz kljuËne predratne zemljaπke slike iz 30-ih u Modernoj galeriji zaokruæuje prezentaciju opusa jednoga od bastiona hrvatskog slikarstva 20. stoljeÊa. Slika je bila u vlasniπtvu izdavaËke kuÊe/lista Vjesnik sve do njezina steËaja 2012. godine. Moderna galerija, svjesna njezine vrijednosti za korpus hrvatske novije likovne baπtine i u strahu da bi mogla postati nedostupna πiroj javnosti, pokrenula je brda i doline kako bi skupila sredstva za njezin otkup. ZahvaljujuÊi zakladi Adris, koja se joπ jednom pokazala vjernim prijateljem i pouzdanim osloncem, slika Na Dravi danas je perjanica galerijske Zbirke slikarstva druge polovine 20. stoljeÊa. Nikola Koydl: Portal -Hommage à Carlo Scarpa Koydlov objekt Portal - hommage a Carlo Scarpa bio je izloæen na Venecijanskom biennaleu 2009., kada je Hrvatska svoju nacionalnu

sekciju (Nikola Koydl − Zoltan Novak − Matko VekiÊ) prikazala u velebnoj palaËi Querini Stampalia, glasovitoj po izvanrednoj restauraciji i redizajnu interijera prema projektu arhitekta i muzealca Carla Scarpe. Poslije zavrπetka izloæbe, na molbu Biserke Rauter PlanËiÊ, povjerenice hrvatskog paviljona na 53. biennaleu i ravnateljice Moderne galerije, realizatora cijelog projekta, slikar Nikola Koydl darovao je svoje djelo za stalni postav Moderne galerije. Vlaho Bukovac: Umjetnikova kÊi u vrtu Spletkarenja kolega koji se nisu mogli nositi s njegovim pariπkim i zagrebaËkim uspjesima i konstantni neprimjereni napadi, kao i raskol Druπtva hrvatskih umjetnika, nagnali su Bukovca da se vrati u Cavtat, zaviËajno gnijezdo, gdje su ga Ëekale æena i kÊeri. U njegovom atelijeru, u roditeljskoj kuÊi s prelijepim giardinom, gdje je najviπe volio slikati, nastala je i ova slika. Izvanredno je to djelo umjetnikova impresionistiËkog izraza i najvrednija slika nastala za vrijeme njegova boravka u Cavtatu (1899.−1902.). Na njoj je Bukovac naslikao svoju stariju kÊer Mariju, sedmogodiπnju djevojËicu, kako stoji na mostiÊu koji spaja atelijer i rodnu kuÊu slikara. Ta slika svojevrstan je manifest ljubavi - spram kÊeri, mediteranskog zaviËaja i obiteljskog gnijezda. Maksimilijan Vanka: Portret Dore PejaËeviÊ Portret glasovite hrvatske skladateljice Maksimilijan Vanka naslikao je 1917. na imanju plemenitih PejaËeviÊa u Naπicama. BeËanin Theodor Lumbe, sin skladateljice roen u Münchenu, koji nije imao priliku upoznati majku jer umrla je ubrzo nakon njegova roenja, u starosti je odluËio ovaj viπestruko vaæan portret za hrvatsku glazbenu i likovnu umjetnost darovati Modernoj galeriji. .

Slikar Josip Pino Trostmann i ravnateljica Moderne galerije Biserka Rauter PlanËiÊ, uoËi otvorenja retrospektivne izloæbe, prireene u povodu 50. obljetnice stvaralaπtva barda dubrovaËkoga koloristiËkog kruga i suvremenoga hrvatskoga pejzaænog slikarstva. Painter Josip Pino Trostmann and Head of the Modern Gallery Biserka Rauter PlanËiÊ, on the eve of the opening of the painter’s retrospective exhibition mounted on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of artistic creation of the bard of the Dubrovnik coloristic circle and contemporary Croatian landscape painting.

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of the Republic of Croatia, and its inclusion in the Gallery’s permanent exhibition provides a more integral insight into the oeuvre of the key protagonists of art at the turn of the last two centuries and sheds light on the masterpieces created during JurkiÊ’s most fruitful period which places him at the very pinnacle of both the Croatian and central European circles of symbolism in art.

Maksimilijan Vanka: Portret Dore PejaËeviÊ/ Portrait of Dora PejaËeviÊ, 1917.

ver the past two years, the Gallery’s collections have become richer with over 100 first-class paintings and sculptures donated by either the artists themselves or their heirs, but also through purchases funded with the ﬁnancial support of the Adris Foundation and the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Croatia. As a result, insight into Croatia’s modern art heritage has been broadened with works of such masters as Vlaho Bukovac, Gabrijel JurkiÊ, Maksimilijan Vanka, Krsto HegeduπiÊ, Miljenko StanËiÊ and numerous other superb 20th century Croatian painters. Amongst the relevant works of art recently donated, the highlights are an installation by the ingenious and eternally young Ivan KoæariÊ, a fascinating object by Nikola Koydl, and oils by the landscapist bard of contemporary Croatian painting Josip Pino Trostmann, as well as works by young authors Martina GrliÊ and Stjepan TadiÊ, artists who have regained not only the primacy of easel painting to the joy of audiences, but also glory to the art of painting.

Miljenko StanËiÊ: Enfant This charcoal drawing created in 1973 was purchased from the private collection of a collector and the painter’s gallerist in Brussels who is to be credited for numerous exhibitions of StanËiÊ’s work and the promotion of his peculiar surrealist expression in Belgium. Gabrijel JurkiÊ: Journey to Eternity This oil painting was painted in 1918 and is one of Gabrijel JurkiÊ’s paradigmatic works. It was purchased from Vladimir JurkiÊ from Pula, one of the heirs to the painter’s legacy. After restoration at the Modern Gallery, it has become a publically accessible cultural property 32

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Stipan TadiÊ: Self-portrait The posture of the ﬁgure, his piercing eyes and a melancholy of sorts emanating from the painting are a perfect homage to Albrecht Durer, the artist’s role model. The painter, who persistently paints portraits and practices this demanding discipline in the old-school way, slowly and painstakingly, which is not commonplace amongst young artists, willingly responded to the request of the Modern Gallery to donate a painting to the Gallery’s holdings of contemporary Croatian painting. Martina GrliÊ: World to Come The artist who graduated in 2009 from the Academy of Fine Arts of the University of Zagreb donated her oil painting World to Come from 2012 to the Modern Gallery. This is one of her best works from the cycle of photo-realistic paintings revealing an enviable metier. From the position of a socially sensitised artist, World to Come is a comment on the closing down of factories and the obliteration of the symbols of recent past. Ivan KoæariÊ: Consecration of Berber Ceramics This installation by Ivan KoæariÊ, the innovative bard of contemporary Croatian sculpture, was created in 2007 during the artist’s stay in Rabat. It became part of the holdings of the Modern Gallery thanks to a donation by Darko BekiÊ, the then Ambassador of the Republic of Croatia to Morocco. Krsto HegeduπiÊ: On the Drava River This anthological work by painter Krsto HegeduπiÊ from 1960 is a crown jewel of the painter’s tempo secondo. Together with key works from his pre-war Earthly Group period from the 1930s at the Modern Gallery, it completes the presentation of the oeuvre of one of the bastions of 20th century Croatian painting. The painting was the property of the Vjesnik publishing house and newspaper until it declared bankruptcy in 2012. Well aware of its value for the corpus of recent Croatian artistic heritage and fearing that it might become inaccessible to the general public, the Modern Gallery moved heaven and earth to raise funds

to purchase it. Owing to the Adris Foundation, which once again proved its mettle as a faithful and reliable friend, the painting On the Drava River is now the ﬂagship of the Gallery’s collection of paintings from the second half of the 20th century. Nikola Koydl: Portal − Homage à Carlo Scarpa Koydl’s object Portal − Homage to Carlo Scarpa was exhibited at the Venice Biennale in 2009 when Croatia showcased its selection (Nikola Koydl − Zoltan Novak − Matko VekiÊ) at the grand Querini Stampalia Palace, famous for the superbly executed restoration and redesign of its interior, the project of which was done by the architect and museum expert Carlo Scarpa. After the Biennale, at the request of Biserka Rauter PlanËiÊ, the commissioner of the Croatian Pavilion at the 53rd Biennale, Head of the Modern Gallery and director of the entire project, painter Nikola Koydl donated his work to the Modern Gallery to be included in its permanent exhibition. Vlaho Bukovac: The Artist’s Daughter in the Garden Plotting by colleagues who could not bear the success he was reaping in both Paris and Zagreb, continuous inappropriate attacks and a rift within the Croatian Association of Artists made Bukovac return to his native Cavtat, where his wife and daughters were awaiting him. It was in his atelier, in his parent’s house featuring a most beautiful garden, his favourite place to paint, that this painting was created. This is an exquisite piece of the artist’s impressionist expression and the most valuable work created during his stay in Cavtat (1899-1902). It depicts the artist’s older daughter Marija, aged 7, standing on the bridge connecting his atelier and the painter’s native house. The painting is a manifesto of sorts of the artist’s love − love for his daughter, of the Mediterranean landscape and his family’s nest. Maksimilijan Vanka: Portrait of Dora PejaËeviÊ Maksimilijan Vanka painted this portrait of the famous Croatian composer in 1917 at the noble PejaËeviÊ family estate in Naπice. Theodor Lumbe, the composer’s son born in Munich and a resident of Vienna, never met his mother because she died shortly after giving birth to him. In his old age, he decided to donate to the Modern Gallery this portrait which is remarkably and multiply valuable not only for Croatian art history, but also for Croatian music history. ■ www.moderna-galerija.hr

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GRADITELJSKO NASLIJE–E ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE

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PalaËa ZagrebaËke burze The Palace of the Zagreb Stock Exchange

Kao πto kraljevske krune Ëesto nose obiljeæja orla, tako i mnoga sveËana zdanja, posebice crkve, istiËu svoje uzviπene svodove kao jedinstvene iskaze svoga postojanja i misije. Impresija nastaje kad uzdignemo pogled iz uobiËajenog vidokruga prema visini te, zateËeni simfonijom dubinskih impresija krovne arhitekture, dotaknemo izvornost dimenzija koje se uzdiæu u nepoznati prostor zvjezdanih daljina. Semper Excelsius! Much like royal crowns that often bear the symbol of eagle, many stately buildings, particularly churches, accentuate their lofty vaulted ceilings as unique expressions of their very existence and mission. The impression is created when we look up above the usual horizon and train our eye in a vertical direction and then, taken by surprise by a symphony of deep impressions of the ceiling architecture, we touch the originality of dimensions which rise in awe of the unfamiliar space of starry distances. Semper Excelsius! Piše/By Goran StojanoviÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Ivo Pervan

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Jeste li sigurni/Da smo budni? »ini mi se/Joπ spavamo, sanjamo. William Shakespeare, San Ivanjske noÊi; Ëetvrti Ëin, prizor prvi Are you sure/That we are awake? It seems to me/That yet we sleep, we dream. William Shakespeare, A Midsummer Night’s Dream; Act 4, Scene 1 rkve kao i drugi prostori usmjereni uzletu ljudskog duha zidaju se za bjelinu cilja. U tom blistavom i strpljivom putovanju grade se temelji, naslaæu zidovi, podiæe krov. Zatim se urešuju unutarnji prostori. Britko se reæe kamen, pomno i poboæno slaæe se sveËanost interijera za unos pjesme, knjige, igrokaza, molitve, Ëesto na pladnju tihe mudrosti. Takva zdanja podiæu se s udivljenjem svjedoËanstva u kojima je moguÊe doseÊi sebe u ogledalu prostora u kojem se boravi, katkad s pogledom na kakav poseban detalj u okruæju koji blistavo artikulira svoje simetrije, kristalne i skrivene strukture. Probuena svijest oslikava visinu i umjetnošÊu uresa graditeljskih svodova: plitkih ili dubokih, baËvastih, stoæastih ili kupolastih, rebrastih, kriæno rebrastih ili jedrastih, zidanih ili lijevanih, svejedno. »esto, baπ su svodovi prijenosnici poruka, pozivnici da svoj vidokrug oplemenimo visinskim obzorima svjetla i jednostavne ljepote koju je moguÊe doseÊi i bez posebnih posrednika. Kada spomenemo istaknutu ljepotu nekoga graditeljskog svoda, prva misao vodi nas k poznatoj Sikstini, koja joπ iz doba visoke renesanse, sa svojim iznimnim svodom ureπenim nadahnutom Michelangelovom rukom, i danas zaokuplja punu pozornost. Ovdje se dolazniku, posjetitelju, traæitelju viπega i ljepπega, daruje vidik arhitektonske strukture sa zapanjujuÊim trodimenzionalnim efektima kao dar Boæje ruke u mistiËnoj nedokuËivosti stvaranja svega πto jest. Mnogi graditeljski svodovi, kao konstruktivni elementi koji zatvaraju gornje granice unutarnjih prostora i u hrvatskoj arhitekturi posjeduju primjere velikih vrijednosti. U tom neotuivom pravu postojanja i svjetlost im daruje dio otiska probuene svijesti koje veliËa Æivot. Osobiti su prizori umjetniËkih rjeπenja u arhitekturi kroviπta mnogih zdanja, koji nas, osjetom oka, odjednom ispune udivljenjem, a misaoni procesi zastanu vienim. Ne postoji odgovor na Svjetlost koja osvjetljava unutraπnji govor gradnje. Ona to jednostavno Ëini, sama iz sebe i sama od sebe, izviruÊi iz izvora nesebiËnog davanja.

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Na hrvatskim prostorima, svodove sakralnih i drugih sveËanih zdanja zanimljivo je promatrati od devetog stoljeÊa, kada duæ razvedene obale Jadrana niËu ranosrednjovjekovne crkvice malih dimenzija i raznolikih oblika, intuitivnih ambijentalnih vrijednosti s Ëesto slobodnim iskazom neke simpatiËne svojeglavosti. Ta zdanja nisu katedralnih dimenzija pa svoje skromne molitvene prostore pokrivaju krajnje jednostavnim svodovima i kupolama. U gradnji one kao da su nesvjesne bilo kakvih ideoloπkih pretenzija i iskljuËivo su usmjerene podizanju svojih svetiπta kao jedinom cilju. Razbacane, u gotovo netaknutoj prirodi vidovitih krajolika maslinika i Ëempresa, vinograda i paπnjaka, one i danas, nakon dvanaest stoljeÊa od svog nastanka, iskazuju osobitu jednostavnost kao najveÊu vrijednost univerzalne ljepote. U tom istom dobu predromanike, kada prevladava velika seoba naroda na europskom kontinentu, zadarski biskup Donat podiæe veliku crkvu u svom gradu, u maniri starohrvatske arhitekture. Izvorno, to sakralno zdanje posveÊeno je Svetom Trojstvu, a imenom sv. Donata poËinje se nazivati tek od 15. stoljeÊa. Unutraπnji prostor sloæen je i dinamiËan, a kretanje omeeno tek kruænim obilaskom u dvije razine. Blistav je to odnos uronjen u preplet probuene ljubavi za lijepo. Srediπnji i kruæni prostor jedinstven je u punoj visini, zatvoren tek uæom konstrukcijom koja zavrπava srediπnjim krovom u obliku plitkog stoπca. Osvjetljenje svoda dolazi kroz visinske prozore gdje vertikalna jedinstvenost vuËe pogled prema gore, prema svjetlosti koja u igri sa sjenama nestaje u masivnosti zidova. Nekoliko stoljeÊa poslije, toËnije, u poËetku 15. stoljeÊa, u slikovitom zagorskom krajoliku Lepoglave, posveÊena je crkva Svete Marije, koju je podignuo samostanski red sv. Pavla Pustinjaka. Nadograena i ureena kao gotiËka graevina s baroknim oltarima, danas je remek-djelo arhitekture, slikarstva i kiparstva, koju su oslikali vrsni pavlinski umjetnici Ivan Krstitelj Ranger i Aleksej Koniger. Laa tog svetiπta presvoena je osobito lijepim rebrastim svodom sa slikama Ëetiri evanelista, a središnji dio posveÊen je Djevici Mariji, po kojoj je crkva i dobila ime. Svaki posjetitelj koji stupi preko praga te lijepo izgraene, a u 18. stoljeÊu i nadahnuto ureπene crkve, ostaje zadivljen prizorima. Velik je izazov pretoËiti dubinu Neba u zatvoren prostor, pazeÊi pritom da se ne zatire njegova nedohvatljiva bezvremenost i mistiËna privlaËnost. Ovdje je svodna scena u tome i uspjela. Kada raskoπna svjetlost osunËa tminu, nastaje jasnoÊa, vidljiva stvarnost, ukazan

put. Mnogi svodovi svjedoËe te poruke kada raπËlanjuju teret zidova, pjevaju visini, prihvaÊaju teæinu krova, zidanom skeletu daruju skladnu oblikovnost te istiËu misiju zdanja ne uzimajuÊi mu slobodu vlastitog izriËaja. Takav primjer istiËe i trogirska katedrala sv. Lovre, graena u romaniËkom stilu 1251. s gotiËkim svodovima. Kao jedan od najznamenitijih trogirskih spomenika, ona je ujedno i dio Unescove zaπtiÊene svjetske baπtine. Glavni portal katedrale majstora Radovana ujedno je i najznaËajniji srednjovjekovni portal na istoËnom Jadranu te u ovom dijelu Europe. Kriæno-rebrasti svodovi trogirske katedrale gradili su se gotovo tri stoljeÊa: svod predvorja, bogat proﬁnjenim detaljima, nastao je u 13. stoljeÊu, boËnih brodova u 14. stoljeÊu, a svod glavnog broda sagraen u 15. stoljeÊu. Svi katedralni svodovi imaju geometriju neuobiËajenu u gotiËkoj arhitekturi Dalmacije. Svod glavnog broda ima tjemeno rebro baπ poput francuskih anæuvinskih svodova. To katedralno zdanje krasi i veoma lijepa kapela sv. Ivana Trogiranina. Prostorna koncepcija kapele raena je prema koncepciji Jupiterova hrama u Dioklecijanovoj palaËi. U kasetni baËvasti svod kapele uklesane su glave seraﬁna u jedinstvenoj kompoziciji sa srediπnjim likom Boga Oca. Taj svod osvaja svojom minucioznom jednostavnoπÊu i bjelinom te i danas iskazuje bogat sadræaj intimnošÊu prostora protkanoga vrsnoÊom majstorskog rada Andrije Aleπija i Nikole Firentinca, datiranoga joπ 1468. godinom. Biser hrvatske kulturne baπtine svakako je i katedrala svetog Jakova u ©ibeniku, koja je joπ od 1298. promovirana u katedralnu crkvu. Ta ponosita trobrodna bazilika dovrπena je 95 godina nakon poËetka gradnje, davne 1536. godine. Temeljito obnovljena u 19. stoljeÊu, veliko priznanje dobiva 2000. godine, kada je Unesco uvrπtava na svoj popis svjetskih kulturnih i spomeniËkih baπtina. Na kriæiπtu srediπnje i popreËne lae toga monumentalnoga sakralnog zdanja kvadratna osnova nosi osmerokutni tambur sa πesnaest prozora, iznad kojega se uzdiæe blago zaπiljena kupola. Krov srediπnje crkvene lae i popreËnog broda tvori vidljiv svod polukruænog baËvastog oblika, a zabat zapadnog proËelja katedrale zavrπava trodijelnim, trolisnim oblikom. Dvanaest gotiËkih stupova nosi zidove srednje lae i kameni baËvasti svod. Arhitektura teæi visini, svjetlu i nedokuËivim prostorima osobitih vitraja, rozeta, lukova i svodova. Pogledom u katedralne visine sv. Jakova zastaje dah. Sve je tako dohvatno oku, a opet vrlo daleko od razine na kojoj se nalazi promatraË. BaËvasti svod

sa svjetlom iz kupole te apsida s rozetama, iskazuju mistiËne dubine viteπke odvaænosti arhitektonske kreacije koja je smogla hrabrost gradnje koje veliËa neprekinuti napjev æivljenja. U nekom povijesnom slijedu, katedralnu renesansnu kupolu u ©ibeniku izradio je Nikola Firentinac (1477.−1505.) poslije Brunelleschijeve kupole (1420.−1434.) koja je dograena gotiËkoj katedrali Firentinske nadbiskupije. Nakon te dvije, sagraena je i glasovita Michelangelova kupola (1547.−1561.) iznad bazilike sv. Petra u Rimu.

uz veliko poπtovanje prema unutraπnjoj visini vienoga. Nije sluËajno, ta je crkva najveÊa, za mnoge i najljepπa u Hrvatskoj. Papa Ivan XXIII. svojedobno ju je nazvao i najljepπom crkvom izmeu Venecije i Carigrada. Vizionarski podizana te u konaËnici, kao nova katedrala, 1882. stasala je u neogotiËko− romaniËkom stilu pod budnim vodstvom akovaËkog biskupa Josipa Jurja Strossmayera, iznimne osobe koja je bila ukljuËena u sva glavna zbivanja u hrvatskoj politici, gospodarstvu i kulturi 19. stoljeÊa. Tako visoka i lijepa, dostojanstvena i sveËana,

Plavetnilo svoda okupanoga suncem, iz poznate akovaËke katedrale, sjaji u svojoj slikovitosti. Katedralna zdanja Ëesto izrastaju kao zajedniËke himne zajednici u kojoj se podiæu, zazivajuÊi milost Neba, darujuÊi se narodima kao monumentalni iskaz vlastite snage i vjere. Visinska svjetlost koja ulazi u prostor te crkve kroz deset kruænih rozetnih prozora obasjava i katedralni kriæni svod, koji se proteæe prostorom tlocrtno sagraenome u znaku latinskog kriæa. PromatraË moæe dosegnuti impresiju prizora zvjezdanog neba

sredinom proπlog stoljeÊa proglaπena je i bazilikom sv. Petra. Svojim osobitim arhitektonskim izrazom budi punu pozornost prostora slavonskih ravnica, u kojoj i danas ponosito stoluje. U naπoj svakodnevnici treba zastati. UoËiti prostor, krajolik, vanjski i unutarnji. Istraæiti smisao brzine. Usporiti. Tek tada, detalj postaje vidljiv, a sadræaj razumljiv. Graditeljski svodovi, ti unutraπnji elementi crkava, kazaliπta, knjižnica i drugih sveËanih zdanja nastoje doseÊi to uzviπeno nadahnuÊe trenutka

Split, Hrvatsko narodno kazaliπte Split, Croatian National Theatre

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Zagreb, Novinarski dom Zagreb, Journalistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Home

Split, Vestibul Split, Vestibul Antechamber

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Zagreb, UmjetniĂ&#x2039;ki paviljon Zagreb, Art Pavilion

Trogir, krstionica sv. Ivana Trogir, Baptistery of St. John

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Zagreb, zgrada Hrvatske akademije znanosti i umjetnosti Zagreb, The Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts building

Dubrovnik, isusovaĂ&#x2039;ka crkva sv. Ignacija Dubrovnik, the Jesuit Church of St. Ignatius

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Zagreb, gradsko groblje Mirogoj Zagreb, Mirogoj Cemetery

Zagreb, prolaz Oktogon Zagreb, The Octagon Passage

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Zagreb, crkva bl. Augustina KaæotiÊa Zagreb, Church Blessed Augustin KaæotiÊ

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uhvaÊeno u umjetniËki izriËaj ljudske ruke. Novi, uzviπeni vidici, prepuni tajanstvenih otkriÊa, sreÊu se u spoznaji spokoja i mira, uzbuenja, avanture i zanosa, osjeÊaja slobode i nepresuπne kreacije. Mnogi svodovi, kao kakvi usidreni brodovi, oslikavaju se razapetim jedrima zanosa. Koja Ëarolija! UmjetniËki paviljon u Zagrebu izraæava povijest likovne umjetnosti u Hrvatskoj u 20. stoljeÊu. Kroz svoje stogodiπnje postojanje u Paviljonu su se odræavale gotovo sve velike izloæbe koje su prelazile okvir grada Zagreba. Tu su se stvarali temelji hrvatske moderne. Snaænu inicijativu za gradnju UmjetniËkoga paviljona dao je 1895. godine slikar Vlaho Bukovac, velika liËnost likovnoga i kulturnog æivota Hrvatske na prijelomu stoljeÊa. Objekt je mudro planiran te hortikulturno zaokruæen u zelenoj, Lenucijevoj potkovi grada te najsretnije urastao u svoju okolinu i postao sudionikom nadahnuto osmiπljene stvaralaËke cjeline kao reprezentativni urbani i kulturni objekt i klasiËna veduta Zagreba s naglaπenim obiljeæjima secesije. Interijer i dekoracija UmjetniËkog paviljona zgusnuti su u vestibulu i dvorani pod kupolom, u motivima iz renesanse do baroka. Visoka kupola, bogato ukraπena slikama na staklu, dominira nad dvoranom namijenjenoj koncertima i posebnim sveËanostima. Panteonska kruænica u priljevu sunca, sliËna kao i na svodu ZagrebaËke burze, prikaz je sunca, svjetlosti i mudrosti, topline u naËelu æivota. Upravo svjetlost fragmentira detalje potrebne za doæivljaj unutarnjeg putovanja i spoznaje. Teatar je prostor kreativnog duha i spoznaje. Velika kazaliπta, narodna, sveËana su zdanja kulture i nadahnuÊa, susreta sa sobom i druπtvom, jer njihova svrha i jest doæivjeti emociju spoznaje da je svijet veÊi, ljepπi i kompleksniji nego πto to svakodnevica iskazuje. Interijeri velikih kazaliπta i opera Ëesto se uzdiæu u visine. Tu su redovito utkane i loæe s vidokrugom na pozornicu, partere i uzviπeni svod iz kojih lusteri impozantnih veliËina i oblika vise iz njihova srediπta. Uneseni u prostor, monumentalnih veliËina, istiËu darovitost ruku koje su ga radile, ali s mjerom; tek toliko da naglase da su dio usklaen s prostorom u kojem svijetle. Mnoga narodna kazaliπta u Hrvatskoj ponose se svojim interijerima u kojima svodovi sami zovu da se u njih usmjeri pogled. Kamo, ako ne u visinu! Suvremen iskaz svoda, ispunjen dubinskom bjelinom svemira, iskazuje svoju Ëudesnost u crkvi sv. Augustina KaæotiÊa u Zagrebu. Simfonija oblika sklapa se u cjelovitost poruke. Snaæni ulazak svjetla kroz neveliki otvor, mudro postavljen na njegovo izvoriπte, ispunjava osjeÊajem nebeskog uzleta u ne-

poznato a prisno. Izvorište nastanka iskazuje dostojanstvo prema kojem se treba pokloniti iskreno, ponizno, radosno i Ëasno. Iz temelja diæu se graevine duha i umjetnosti, zidaju zidovi, pokrivaju kroviπta. Ispod krovova tih dinamiËnih konstrukcija izvodi se simfonija graditeljske poruke u koju je poæeljno usmjeriti pogled, uzdignuti glavu u visinu. Tada se posjetitelj uznosi u geometriju duha gdje se u arhitektonskim projekcijama ostvarenoga boæansko sreÊe s ljudskim, pritom ne ostavljajuÊi trag neke vidljive razlike. IzriËaj je to sveËanog spokojstva, koje kao jutarnji uzlazak sunca u neki zamraËeni prostor pretaËe vidno polje promatraËa u nebeski algoritam razumijevanja prolaznoga i trajnoga. U toj vjeËnoj igri pobjednik je poznat. Bitno je zaplivati prema izvoru nadahnuÊa. Svodovi baπ govore o tome. Poruka svijesti pretoËena je i u kupolu Panteona. Vidi se blizina neba. To je i cilj, zar ne? . hurches, like other spaces orientated towards the ascent of the human spirit, are built for the whiteness of a purpose. On this dazzling and patient journey, foundations are laid, walls are erected, roofs are built. And then, the interior is decorated. Stone is chiselled sharply, the solemnity of the interior is arranged painstakingly and sanctimoniously to accommodate songs, books, plays, prayers, often on a platter of silent wisdom. Such ediﬁces are erected with the delight of a testimony in which it is possible to attain oneself in the mirror of a space in which one dwells, sometimes observing a special detail in an environment which splendidly articulates its symmetries, its crystal and hidden structures. Yet another way in which awakened consciousness depicts height is through the art of decorating architectural vaults: regardless of whether shallow or deep, barrel vaults, groin vaults or domes, rib vaults, crossribbed vaults or fan vaults, brick layered or cast. Frequently, it is vaults that carry a message, an invitation to enrich our views with the lofty horizons of light and simple beauty which are both attainable even without any special mediator. Talking about the remarkable beauty of architectural vaults, we first think of the famous Sistine Chapel, whose exceptional dome, adorned by Michelangelo’s inspired hand, has captivated our attention since High Renaissance. Passersby, visitors, seekers of all things more elevated and more beautiful are proffered a gift: a view of an architectural structure portraying astonishing three-

dimensional effects as a bequest from God in the mystic unattainability of the creation of everything there is. Many architectural vaults, as constructive elements which enclose the upper borders of interior spaces, represent remarkable values in Croatian architecture as well. In this inalienable right to being, light also provides them a part of the imprint of an awakened consciousness glorifying Life. There are some truly exceptional solutions in the roof architecture of many buildings, which − through the sensation of the eye − suddenly fill us with awe, while our thought processes are halted by what is observed. There is no answer to the Light which illuminates the internal language of architecture. It does it simply, on its own, from within itself, springing from a source of selfless giving. Vaulted ceilings of sacral and other stately edifi ces in Croatia are interesting to consider from the 9 th century onwards, when modestly sized little Medieval churches of various shapes started mushrooming along the indented coast of the Adriatic. They depict intuitive ambience values and are very often a free expression of some idiosyncratic quirkiness. These buildings are not the size of cathedrals, thus their unassuming prayer spaces are covered with rather simple vaults and domes. During construction, they seem to have been unaware of any ideological pretensions. Instead, their only objective must have been the erection of their shrines as their sole purpose. Scattered, in the virginal countryside of visionary landscapes of olive and cypress groves, vineyards and meadows, even today, after twelve centuries from the time they were built, they continue to express remarkable simplicity as the greatest value of universal beauty. During the same pre-Romanesque period, strongly marked by a great migration of peoples across the European continent, the Bishop of Zadar Donat commissioned the construction of a large church in his town in the manner of old Croatian architecture. Originally, this sacral building was consecrated to St. Trinity, and it was only as of the 15th century that it was called the Church of St. Donat. Its interior is complex and dynamic, while movement is restricted only by a circular flow at two levels. This is a splendid relationship immersed into a tangle of a newly awakened love of beauty. The central circular space is unique in its full height, enclosed only with a narrower construction which ends with a central roof in the shape of a shallow cone. The dome is lit through lofty windows, where vertical uniformity pulls CROATIA AIRLINES

©ibenik, katedrala sv. Jakova ©ibenik, Cathedral of St. Jacob

PoreË, biskupski dvor PoreË, Episcopal Palace

Lepoglava, crkva sv. Marije Lepoglava, Church of St. Mary

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one’s eyes upwards, towards the light which disappears in the massiveness of the walls in a play with shadows. A few centuries later, in the early 15th century to be more precise, the Church of St. Mary − constructed by the order of St. Paul − was consecrated in the picturesque Zagorje landscape of Lepoglava. Remodelled and refurbished as a Gothic building with Baroque altars, it is today considered to be a masterpiece of architecture, painting and sculpture, which was painted by the excellent Pauline artists John the Baptist Ranger and Aleksej Koniger. The nave of this shrine is covered by a particularly beautiful rib vault depicting the four evangelists, while the central part is dedicated to the Virgin Mary who gave her name to the church. Every visitor who steps across the threshold of this beautifully constructed church, which was so inspiredly decorated in the 18th century, is in awe. It is an exceptional challenge to translate the depth of Heaven into an enclosed space, making sure not to encroach on its illusive timelessness and mystic attraction. The vaulted scene has succeeded in doing just that. When sumptuous light basks darkness, what appears is clarity, a visible reality, a discernible path. Many vaults bear witness to such messages when they decompose the burden of walls, sing their song to elevation, accept the weight of a roof, provide a harmonious form to a brick layered skeleton and accentuate the mission of the ediﬁce without depriving it of the freedom of its own expression. An example of this is the Trogir Cathedral of St. Lawrence, a Romanesque style building with Gothic vaults built in 1251. As one of Trogir’s ultimate highlights, it is a UNESCO protected world heritage site. The Cathedral’s central portal, the most important Medieval portal on the east Adriatic coast and this part of Europe, is the work of Master Radovan. The cross-ribbed vaults of the Trogir Cathedral took nearly three centuries to complete: the one above the portico abounding in reﬁned details was crafted in the 13th century, the vaults covering the aisles date back to the 14th century, while the vault above the nave was constructed in the 15th century. The geometry of all the vaults is atypical of Dalmatia’s Gothic architecture. The vault above the central nave is traversely arched resembling the French Angevin vault variety. This Cathedral also boasts the exceptionally beautiful Chapel of St. John of Trogir. The space of the Chapel was modelled after the concept of the Temple of Jupiter in Diocletian’s Palace. Seraphim heads are carved into the cassettes of the barrel vault in a unique composition with the

central figure of God the Father. The vault captivates with its minute simplicity and whiteness, and to this very day presents its rich content through the intimacy of the space embellished with the excellent work of masters Andrea Alessi and Nicholas of Florence dating from the year 1468. The Cathedral of St. James in ©ibenik is certainly one of the pearls of Croatia’s cultural heritage. A Cathedral since 1298, this proud three-nave basilica was finished 95 years after the start of its construction back in 1536. It was fully renovated in the 19th century and was given major recognition in 2000 when UNESCO included it on its list of world cultural and monument heritage sites. At the transept of this monumental sacral edifice, a square base supports an octagonal tambour with sixteen windows and a slightly pointed dome at the top. The roof above the central nave and transverse aisles is a semicircular barrel vault, while the gable of the Cathedral’s western façade ends in a threepart three-leafed form. Twelve gothic columns carry the walls of the central nave and the stone barrel vaults. The architecture strives upwards, towards light and the unattainable space of exceptional stained glass panels, rosettes, arches and domes. A view of the

heights of the Cathedral of St. James leaves one breathless. Everything is within the eye’s reach, and yet so far from the level of the observer. The barrel vault with light penetrating from the dome and the apses with the rosettes are an expression of the mystic depths of a knightly audacity of an architectural creation which, having mastered the courage of construction, extols the uninterrupted song of life. As far as the historical sequence is concerned, the ©ibenik Cathedral’s Renaissance dome was constructed by Nicholas of Florence (1477− 1505) immediately after Brunelleschi’s dome (1420− 1434), which was added to the Gothic Cathedral of the Florentine Archdiocese. After these two, Michelangelo’s (1547− 1561) famous dome was built on top of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The blueness of the dome of the famous –akovo Cathedral bathed in sunshine shines in its picturesqueness. Cathedral buildings often grow as common hymns to the community in which they are erected, invoking the mercy of Heaven, giving themselves to people as a monumental expression of their own strength and faith. The lofty light which enters this church through ten circular rosette windows illuminates the Cathedral’s cross vault which extends across the space designed

Split, katedrala sv. Duje Split, Cathedral of St. Domnius Vižinada, crkva Blažene Djevice Marije na Boæjem Polju Vižinada, Churc of the Blessed Virgin Mary at Božje Polje

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–akovo, katedrala sv. Petra i Pavla –akovo, Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul

in the shape of a Latin cross. Observers can attain an impression of the scene of a star-studded sky with exceptional respect for the interior height of the seen. It is not by accident that this church is the largest and for many the most beautiful in Croatia. Pope John XXIII used to call it the most beautiful church between Venice and Istanbul. Erected with a vision and finally as a new cathedral in 1882, it was revealed as a Neogothic-Romanesque building under the watchful eye of the Bishop of –akovo Josip Juraj Strossmayer, an exceptional individual involved in all the major developments in Croatia’s 19th century politics, economy and culture. So tall and beautiful, dignifi ed and stately, it was proclaimed a Basilica of St. Peter in the middle of the last century. Its exceptional architectural expression commands full attention of the space of the plains of Slavonia where it continues to reign supreme to this very day. One must pause in everyday life to take in space, the landscape, both interior and exterior. To question the meaning of speed. To slow down. Only then will details become visible and contents comprehensible. Architectural vaults, the interior elements of churches, theatres, libraries and other stately buildings aspire to achieve the divine inspiration of a moment captured in the artistic expression of the human hand. New, divine vistas, replete with mysterious discoveries, meet in the understanding of serenity and peace, excitement, adventure and elation, the feeling of freedom and inexhaustible creation. Many vaults, like anchored ships of sorts, are painted with the hoisted sails of elation. What magic! The Art Pavilion in Zagreb reflects the history of 20th century fine arts in Croatia. Throughout 46

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its century-long existence, the Pavilion has hosted nearly all major exhibitions whose significance transcended the boundaries of Zagreb. The foundations of Croatian Modernism were laid here. The initiative to build the Art Pavilion came in 1895 from painter Vlaho Bukovac, an exceptional figure in Croatian art and culture from the turn of the century. The building was wisely designed and immersed into the greenery of Lenuci’s horseshoe. It has since blended ever so happily into its surroundings and become a protagonist of a creatively inspired and designed whole as a representative urban and cultural facility and a site so typical of Zagreb with highly pronounced features of the Viennese Secession. The interior and décor of the Art Pavilion is compressed in the vestibule and the main hall under a dome, in motifs from the Renaissance to the Baroque. A high dome decorated with stained glass dominates the hall intended for concerts and special occasions. The Pantheon-like circle in the flow of sunshine, similar to the dome of the Zagreb Stock Exchange, is an illustration of the sun, light and wisdom, warmth in the principle of life. It is light that fragments the details necessary for experiencing an internal journey and knowledge. Theatres are spaces of the creative spirit and knowledge. Large, national theatres are important edifices of culture and inspiration, places where one meets oneself and society since their purpose is to experience the emotion of understanding that the world is greater, more beautiful and more complex than demonstrated by the rat race of everyday life. The interiors of big theatres and opera houses often stream upwards. They regularly feature rows of boxes offering a view

of the stage, a parterre and a high dome with chandeliers of imposing sizes and shapes hanging from their centres. Brought into an interior, of monumental sizes, they accentuate the talent of the hand that made them, but they do so discreetly; only to underline that they are a part coordinated with the space that they illuminate. Many national theatres in Croatia take pride in their interiors and domes which invite one’s eye to look − where else but up! A modern expression of a vault, filled with the profound whiteness of the universe, is the marvel of the church of St. Augustin KaæotiÊ in Zagreb. A symphony of forms combines into the wholeness of the message. A powerful entry of light through a rather small opening, wisely placed at its source, fills one with the feeling of a celestial surge into the unknown, yet intimate. The source of creation expresses dignity to which one has to bow sincerely, humbly, joyfully and reverently. Edifices of spirit and art rise from foundations, their walls are built, roof constructions covered. A symphony of an architect’s message is played below the roofs of such dynamic constructions. It is desirable to train one’s eyes towards it, to raise one’s head in the direction of elevation. And then, visitors rise to the geometry of spirit where, in the architectural projections of the achieved, the divine meets the human without leaving a trace of an observable difference between the two. This is an expression of solemn tranquillity which, like the penetration of the morning sun into a darkened space, transforms the observers’ field of vision into a celestial algorithm of understanding of all things ephemeral and eternal. The winner in this everlasting game is not unknown. What matters is to swim towards the source of inspiration. Vaults speak precisely of that. The message of awareness has also been translated into the dome of the Pantheon. The closeness of the heaven is seen. After all, this is the goal, is it not? ■

Varaædin, katedrala Uznesenja Blaæene Djevice Marije Varaædin, Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary

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OBALA COAST

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Piπe/By Andrea Car Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

Dramalj

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Rivijera Crikvenica − panorama The Riviera of Crikvenica − a panoramic view

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Selce

Svako Êe godiπnje doba u ovome kraju ispriËati neponovljivu priËu, satkanu od neodoljivih boja, zvukova i mirisa. Isprepletanje svjeæega i Ëistoga morskog zraka i planinskih strujanja s mirisima aromatiËnih mediteranskih biljaka, poput kadulje, ruæmarina ili lovora, otkrit Êe vam da se nalazite u odredištu sa stoljetnom tradicijom zdravstvenog turizma, koja je izlijeËila brojne generacije. CROATIA AIRLINES

Crkva Uznesenja BlaĂŚene Djevice Marije u Crikvenici The Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Crikvenica

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Hotel Kvarner Palace Crikvenica Kvarner Palace Hotel in Crikvenica

Along these shores, every season, woven of irresistible colours, sounds and fragrances, has a different story to tell. The interweaving of fresh and clean seaside air and a mountain breeze with the fragrances of Mediterranean plants, such as sage, rosemary and laurel, reveals a destination which boasts a century-old tradition of health tourism having resulted in the healing of numerous generations. CROATIA AIRLINES

Gradska luka u Crikvenici The city harbour in Crikvenica

Crikvenica

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Crkva Uznesenja Blaæene Djevice Marije u Crikvenici The Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Crikvenica

Hotel Kaπtel Crikvenica

Aquarium Crikvenica

Crikvenica centar

Aquarium in Crikvenica

Crikvenica centre

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©etaliπte Balustrada u Crikvenici Balustrada promenade in Crikvenica

Crikvenica

Crikvenica - Trg Stjepana RadiÊa Crikvenica − Stjepan RadiÊ Square

Crikvenica

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Crkva sv. Jakova - Jadranovo The Church of St. James in Jadranovo

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Selce

Pogled na crkvu sv. Katarine u Selcu

Selce

A View of St. Catherineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Church in Selce

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Selce

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Jadranovo − pogled na KrËki most Jadranovo − e view of the Krk Bridge

Jadranovo

Crkva sv. Jakova u Jadranovu The Church of St. James in Jadranovo

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Jadranovo

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Dramalj

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LuËica Pazdehova Dramalj

Crkva sv. Jelene u Dramlju

Pazdehova jetty in Dramalj

The Church of St. Jelena in Dramalj

LuËica Pazdehova Dramalj

Dramalj

Pazdehova jetty in Dramalj

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Dramalj

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Pogled na kaĎ&#x20AC;tel u Driveniku A view of the castle in Drivenik

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DriveniËki kaπtel The Drivenik castle

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DriveniËki kaπtel KriæiπÊe

The Drivenik castle

DriveniËki kaπtel The Drivenik castle

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Drivenik

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Belgrad

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Stari grad Bribir - pogled s vidikovca Slipica The old town of Bribir − a view from the Slipica

Griæane

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Bribir

Griæane

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Pogled na Tribaljsko jezero Tribalj lakeside view

Vinodol

RomantiËan ugoaj pokraj jezera u Triblju

Griæane

Romantic Tribalj lakeside atmosphere

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Jadranovo

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renete li na Kvarner, vaπa je nezaobilazna postaja Rivijera Crikvenica, Ëija Êe vas pitoma turistiËka mjesta Crikvenica, Dramalj, Jadranovo i Selce πarmirati veÊ pri prvome susretu. Priroda je ovdje, poput prave Ëarobnice, skladno spojila slikovitu obalu i beskrajno morsko plavetnilo s njeænim zelenilom πume i bjelinom primorskoga kamena. Zacijelo su njezin povoljan mikroklimatski poloæaj spoznali i redovnici pavlini, koji su u dalekome 15. stoljeÊu u samostanu u Crikvenici prouËavali medicinu i ljekarniπtvo, uzgajali ljekovito bilje i u dijelu zgrade formirali ljeËiliπte. U 19. je stoljeÊu poËeo razvoj turizma, a crikveniËka se rivijera sve ËeπÊe spominje u domaÊim i stranim publikacijama. U sklopu velikih hotela (Nadvojvoda Josip, Miramare) djelovale su prve hidropatske ustanove, otvarala su se ljeËiliπta za djecu i odrasle (Ladislavov djeËji dom, »eπka kolonija i dr.), a s vremenom se grade i sanatoriji u zasebnim zgradama (Dom dr. Seidl, uËiteljski sanatorij Vila Ruæica i dr.). Crikvenica je 1906. godine sluæbeno proglaπena Klimatskim ljeËiliπtem i morskim kupaliπtem. Danas vas u uglednim zdravstvenim ustanovama oËekuju vrhunske medicinske usluge, poput inhalacija morskom vodom u Thalassotherapiji Crikvenica, ljeËiliπtu s bogatom tradicijom od više nego pola stoljeÊa, u sklopu kojega djeluje i centar baromedicine. Zbog izvrsnih terapijskih i preventivnih programa iz sportske medicine, u polikliniku Terme Selce na rehabilitaciju su dolazila poznata sportska imena, poput Davora ©ukera, Luke ModriÊa te Janice i Ivice KosteliÊa. Kvalitetne specijalistiËke usluge i savjete moæete potraæiti i u Poliklinici Katunar u Crikvenici, a ljepπi i zdraviji osmijeh u jednoj od mnogih stomatoloπkih ordinacija. U novije vrijeme tu su i alternativni izvori i metode, poput Dana besplatnog iscjeljivanja te raznih edukacija, radionica i seminara, koji pomaæu u lijeËenju tijela i duπe.

Za potpuno opuπtanje i njegu tijela zaduæeni su wellness i spa sadræaji u hotelima, meu kojima je i najveÊi europski spa centar u susjednome Novom Vinodolskom. Nemojte oklijevati, razmazite se i darujte si vikend u kojemu Êete samo vi biti u središtu paænje, a uæivanje i opuπtanje bit Êe jedini vaæeÊi zakoni. Osim u hotelima, manjim ili veÊim, Ëiji hodnici kriju drevne tajne s aristokratskih zabava ili im proËelja privlaËe paænju suvremenim ruhom, odsjesti moæete i u obiteljskome smjeπtaju, penzionima ili kampovima u Dramlju i Selcu. Osobit doæivljaj pruæa odmor u ureenim kamenim ruralnim kuÊama i vilama u zaleu, s toplim i ugodnim interijerima, koji vjeπto sjedinjuju staro i novo, komfor suvremenoga æivota i netaknutu prirodu. Æelite li pak idealan odmak od buËne svakodnevice, predlaæemo da se smjestite u planinarskome domu u zaleu Vinodola, gdje Êete obnoviti vrijednu æivotnu energiju, vrijeme provoditi u suglasju s prirodom i kuπati speciﬁ Ëne gastronomske delicije. Kako biste aktivno iskoristili baπ svaki trenutak vaπega zasluæenog odmora, neka vaπe osvajanje rivijere poËne πetnjom, joggingom ili planinarenjem ureenim stazama. Svidjet Êe vam se, ne samo zbog cvjetnih livada, veliËanstvenih vidikovaca i skrivenih kapelica, nego i zbog svojih razliËitih imena pa Êe tako moæda upravo Staza valova, Staza Rimljana ili Staza degenije postati vaπa omiljena lokacija za rekreaciju. Jedna je od najljepπih πetnica svakako Ljubavna cestica nadomak središta Crikvenice, gdje Êete u tiπini stoljetnih borova i druπtvu ponekog nestaπnog vrapËiÊa upoznati dio kulturno-povijesne baπtine ovoga kraja, poput kasnoantiËke gradine Badanj. Taj mali sustav umreæenih staza, ukupne duæine oko 8 kilometara, ureen je tridesetih godina 20. stoljeÊa, u razdoblju intenzivnog poπumljavanja crikveniËkoga kraja. U vrijeme kada je ureena, bila je omiljeno πetaliπte

mladih zaljubljenih parova, po Ëemu je i dobila ime. Ne smijemo zaboraviti ni harmoniju duha i uma, stoga svakako proπetajte kroz mirisni Mediteranski labirint ljubavi u Crikvenici, kaæu da ostvaruje æelje, pomlauje, proljepπava i poboljπava ljubav. Biciklisti Êe uæivati osvajajuÊi kilometre biciklistiËkih staza uz more ili u zaleu, a oni æeljni iskuπavanja vlastitih granica, mogu sudjelovati i na organiziranim utrkama, poput Panorame Vinodola u svibnju ili XC BiciklistiËkoga maratona Crikvenica u rujnu. Paraglajderi Êe pravi izazov pronaÊi u obliænjemu Vinodolu, gdje se moæe okuπati i u jahanju. Ribolovci Êe svoje vjeπtine moÊi testirati na moru ili jezeru u nedalekome Triblju. Povoljni vjetrovi vesele brojne jedriliËare, koje Êe iznenaditi skrivene osamljene uvale. Ronioce tijekom cijele godine privlaËi zanimljivo podmorje, a ronilaËki centri u Crikvenici i Selcu organiziraju viπe vrsta teËajeva i izleta. Ne brinite se, ako se ipak neÊete odvaæiti na boravak u morskim dubinama, njihove vesele stanovnike moæete upoznati i u crikveniËkome Aquariumu. Adrenalinski park u Crikvenici osvojit Êe srca malih i velikih pustolova, a ondje ih Ëeka mnogo smijeha, igre i zanimljivih prepreka. Niste li znali, ovo je rivijera Ëije su plaæe meu najljepπima na Jadranu, a pjeπËana plaæa u Crikvenici nekoliko je puta ponijela titulu najureenije. Prekrasne prirodne i ureene plaæe bit Êe jednako gostoljubive prema najmlaim gostima æeljnima zabave, romantiËnim πetaËima ili razigranom psiÊu, koji Êe svoje mjesto pronaÊi na plaæi za kuÊne ljubimce u Crikvenici. Zbog blizine i dobre prometne povezanosti, u svakome se trenutku moæete zaputiti u samostalno ili organizirano upoznavanje ljepota obliænjih gradova, otoka i nacionalnih parkova. DinamiËnu povijest, obiljeæenu prisutnoπÊu i ostacima mnogih naroda, najbolje Êete

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istraæiti zakoraËite li u crikveniËki gradski muzej, galeriju ili neki od prekrasnih sakralnih objekata, kojih ovdje uistinu ne nedostaje. Znate li da je ovdje pronaena keramiËarska radionica iz doba antike, koja je po oËuvanosti jedinstvena na prostoru Hrvatske? Otkrit Êemo vam i da se staro naselje na brijegu zove Kotor, a opustoπio ga je veliki poæar u 18. st. NeÊete zaæaliti, popnite se do njega, priroda i stare kamene kuÊe uistinu su impresivni, a za toplih ljetnih dana pratnja Êe vam biti i neumorna pjesma zrikavaca. Na putu do nekadaπnjega pavlinskoga samostana u Crikvenici, mjesta πkolovanja Jurja Julija KloviÊa, najveÊega svjetskoga renesansnoga minijaturista, zaustavite se u Malikovome parku i posluπajte legendu o tome neobiËnome i luckastome patuljku. Vrijeme je da zastanete i ugodite vaπem nepcu. Jednostavnost izvorne kuhinje, zdrave namirnice te boæanstveni mirisi i okusi Mediterana, stopljeni s ukusnom kapljicom slatke domaÊe vinodolske ælahtine, oËarat Êe i najzahtjevnije gurmane. Osmijeh na lice izmamit Êe vam i kvarnerski πkampi, tradicionalne CrikveniËke rupice, krepka gusta juha Batuda ili pogaËice od ljekovitog samoniklog bilja, koje moæete kuπati u Vinodolu. Obavezno posjetite i Cestu plave

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ribe, u sklopu koje Êe vam mnogi restorani na Ëitavoj Rivijeri Crikvenica ponuditi specijalitete od svjeæe plave ribe, tradicionalne namirnice ovoga kraja. Zasladite se domaÊim smok vama okupanima suncem i solju, fritama ili crikveniËkom tortom Frankopan, pripremljenom prema receptu iz 17. stoljeÊa. Tradicija je nezaobilazna i u mnogim kulturno-zabavnim dogaanjima tijekom Ëitave godine, kojih ovdje zaista ima napretek, od srednjovjekovnih Dana Frankopana, antiËkih Dana Ad Turresa, etno dogaanja (Sr)etno Selce i Ribarskoga tjedna pa do karnevala, koji i zimi i ljeti otkriva svu raznolikost rivijere. Za kraj Êemo vam otkriti da se 15. kolovoza svake godine u Crikvenici odræava PlivaËki maraton ©ilo-Crikvenica, koji je, s tradicijom odræavanja od 1910. godine, jedan od najstarijih na Jadranu. Pozivnica je ispisana, neka Rivijera Crikvenica postane vaπ najdraæi domaÊin moæda veÊ ovaj vikend. . f you are headed for Kvarner Bay, the charming Crikvenica Riviera is an unavoidable stop on your way. The quiet tourist resorts of Crikvenica, Dramalj, Jadranovo, and Selce will charm you at ﬁrst sight. Like a true sorceress, nature has done its magic there, harmoniously blending a picturesque coast, a fathomless blue sea, the gentle greenery of aforest and the dazzling white of its stone. Its favourable microclimatic position must have been noticed by the Pauline Fathers, who in the distant 15th century in a monastery in Crikvenica, studied medicine and pharmacy, grew medicinal herbs and founded a health resort in one part of the building. In the 19 th century, tourism began developing, and local and international publications started mentioning the Crikvenica Riviera more frequently. As part of the big hotels (The Archduke Joseph, Miramare), the ﬁrst hydropathic establishments were opened, health resort

for adults and children opened (Ladislav’s Children’s Home, The Czech Colony etc.), and eventually detached sanatoriums were built (The Dr. Seidl Sanatorium, The Villa Ruæica Teachers’ Sanatorium, etc.). In 1906, Crikvenica was ofﬁcially recognized as the Climatic Health and Sea Resort. Today, you can expect top-quality medical services in reputable medical institutions, as in, for example, sea water inhalation in the Thalassotherapia Crikvenica, a health resort with a rich tradition of over half a century long, in which a baromedical centre operates. Thanks to excellent therapeutic and prevention programs in sports medicine, athletes such as Davor ©uker, Luka ModriÊ and Janica and Ivica KosteliÊ have gone to the Terme Selce Medical Centre for rehabilitation. The Polyclinic Katunar in Crikvenica offers high quality specialist services and advice. You can also get a beautiful and healthy smile in one of the many dental ofﬁces on Crikvenica Riviera. Nowadays, there are also alternative sources and methods available, such as the Days of Free Healing and various training, workshops and seminars, which help in the treatment of the body and soul. Hotel wellness and spa facilities, including the largest European spa centre in neighbouring Novi Vinodolski, guarantee a break for both body and soul. Do not think twice, spoil yourself and give yourself a weekend where only you are the centre of attention, where enjoyment and relaxation are the only applicable laws. Besides staying in small or large hotels, the corridors of which hide ancient secrets from aristocratic amusements or their fronts attract attention by modern attire, accommodation can also be found in private homes, in bed and breakfast facilities, or at camping sites in Dramalj and Selce. A holiday spent in refurbished rural houses made of stone and villas in

the hinterland, with warm and comfortable interiors that artfully combine the old and the new, the comforts of modern life and nature offer a special experience. For the perfect getaway from the noisy rat race of everyday life, we recommend a retreat in one of the mountain lodges in the hinterland of Vinodol to recharge your batteries, where you can spend time in harmony with nature, and try area-specific gastronomic delicacies. To make the most of every moment during your well-deserved holiday, why not start your day with a leisurely stroll, jogging or trekking along the well-kept hilly paths. You will enjoy every moment not only because of the wildflower meadows, magnificent vistas and hidden chapels, but also because of their different names: the Wave Trail, the Roman Trail or the Degenia Trail may become one of your favourite recreational spots. One of the most beautiful promenades, located near the centre of Crikvenica, is certainly the Love Trail where you can discover some of the cultural and historical heritage of the area in the silence of century-old pine trees and in the company of mischievous sparrows. This small system of interwoven trails, with a total length of approximately 8 kilometres, was redone in the 1930s, during a period of intensive afforestation of the Crikvenica area. At the time it was revamped, it was the favourite promenade of young couples in love, which gave it its name. The harmony between mind and soul should not be forgotten so do take a stroll through the fragrant Mediterranean labyrinth of love in Crikvenica, fulfilling your wishes for becoming more rejuvenated and beautiful and for loving stronger. Cyclists can enjoy conquering the kilometres of cycling routes along the sea or through the hinterland, while those wishing to test their limits can also participate in organized races, such as the Panorama

Vinodol in May or the XC Cycling Marathon Crikvenica in September. Paragliders will find plenty of challenges in nearby Vinodol, where horseback riding can also be experienced. Aficionados of fishing can test their skills at sea or on a lake in nearby Tribalj. Favourable winds will delight lovers of sailing who will be surprised by the hidden secluded coves. Scuba divers will be attracted by a fascinating underwater world the whole year round as diving centres in Crikvenica and Selce organize various types of courses and trips. Do not worry if you are not daring enough to take the plunge, you can explore the local sea world at the Crikvenica Aquarium. The Adrenaline Park in Crikvenica will win the hearts of adventure lovers, big and small, and there they can expect lots of laughs, games and interesting obstacles. If you did not know, this is the riviera with some of the most beautiful beaches on the Adriatic, and the sand beach in Crikvenica has won the title of the best kept beach several times. The beautiful natural and well-kept beaches will be equally welcoming for young guests looking for fun, lovers on romantic walks or the playful puppy which can be found on the beach for pets in Crikvenica. Thanks to the proximity and good transport connections, at any moment, you can set out on an individual or organized exploration of beauty of the nearby cities, islands and national parks. Its dynamic past, marked by the presence and remains of different peoples, are best explored at the Crikvenica museum, its galleries or at one of the many beautiful sacred buildings. Did you know that a pottery workshop dating back to the age of antiquity was found here, and that it is, uniquely, the most well-preserved site in all of Croatia? We would also like to tell you that the old settlement on the hill is called Kotor, and it was ravaged by a huge fi re

in the 18th century. You will not regret it, so climb up! The natural surroundings and the old stone houses are truly impressive, and during the warm days of summer, you will also be accompanied by the tireless songs of crickets. On your way to the former Pauline Monastery in Crikvenica, where Juraj Julije KloviÊ, the greatest Renaissance miniature painter in the world was educated, do stop in at Malik’s Park and hear the legend about this unusual gnome. It is time to stop and please your palate. The simplicity of the local cuisine, healthy ingredients and the divine smells and tastes of the Mediterranean, joyfully married with the lovely local ælahtina wine, will satisfy even the most demanding gourmand. The Kvarner scampi and the traditional Crikvenica rupice will put a smile on your face, as will the nourishing Batuda broth or buns made with wild herbs which can be tried out in Vinodol. Be sure to also visit The Oily Fish Route where many restaurants all along the Crikvenica Riviera will offer you specialties made of fresh oily fish, the traditional food of the region. Taste the sweet figs bathed in sun and salt, fritas or the Frankopan cake typical of Crikvenica and prepared following the instructions of a 17th century recipe. Tradition still lives in many events taking place throughout the year. Amongst them, the medieval Frankopan Days, the ancient Ad Turres Days, the Happy Selce ethno event, Fishermen’s Week as well as the carnival uncover the Riviera’s diversity in both winter and summer. And finally, we will reveal that every year on the 15th of August, Crikvenica organizes the ©ilo-Crikvenica Swimming Marathon. With a tradition beginning in 1910, it is one of the oldest on the Adriatic. The invitation has been sent, so let the Crikvenica Riviera become your favourite host perhaps as early as this coming weekend. ■

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ZIMSKI TURIZAM WINTER TOURISM

Piše/By Davor Žic Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ, Arhiva/Archive TZ Opatija/Opatija Tourist Board

ROMANTIC OPATIJA

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Djevojka s galebom, Ă&#x2039;est motiv razglednica Girl with a Seagull, a frequent postcard motif CROATIA AIRLINES

Povijest Opatije, kako i pristaje jednome od najromantiËnijih europskih gradiÊa, poËela je ljubavnom priËom. Bogati rijeËki trgovac u zalog svoje ljubavi prema supruzi Angiolini, koja je preminula dvanaest godina prije, odluËio je podignuti raskoπnu vilu. Nazvao ju je njezinim imenom i okruæio najljepπim parkom ispunjenim egzotiËnim cvijeÊem pristiglim iz Ëitava svijeta. Tako je stvoren prvi hrvatski turistiËki proizvod, prije toËno 170 godina, πto Opatiji daje titulu jednoga od prvih pravih turistiËkih mjesta u Europi. The history of Opatija, as beﬁts one of the most romantic towns of Europe, starts with a Opatijska Ulica slavnih napravljena je po uzoru na Hollywood Walk of Fame Opatija’s Walk of Fame was modelled after Hollywood’s Walk of Fame

love story. As a pledge of his love for his wife Angiolina, who had died twelve years earlier, a wealthy merchant from Rijeka decided to erect a luxurious villa which he named after her, enveloping it with the most beautiful park filled with exotic flowers that arrived from around the world. And so the first Croatian tourist product was created exactly 170 years ago, bestowing Opatija the title of one of the first real tourist spots in Europe.

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ao kod veÊine ljubavnih priËa, i u ovoj opatijskoj pomijeπali su se tragiËni i sretni trenuci, stvorivπi legendu koja Êe se prepriËavati joπ stotinama godina. »etrdesetih godina 19. stoljeÊa bogati rijeËki trgovac Iginio Scarpa postao je vlasnik velikog zemljiπta na morskoj obali, pokraj mjestaπca sa stotinjak kuÊa koje su uglavnom naseljavali lokalni ribari, smjeπtenoga uz opatiju sv. Jakova, po kojoj Êe Ëitav grad dobiti ime. U zalog svoje ljubavi prema supruzi Angiolini, koja je preminula dvanaest godina prije, odluËio je podignuti raskoπnu vilu i nazvao je njezinim imenom. Vila sagraena 1844. godine vrlo je brzo postala traæeno odrediπte ne samo meu bogatim stanovnicima susjedne Rijeke, nego i ostatka zemlje, a nakon πto su u njoj boravili ban Josip JelaËiÊ i carica Marija Ana Savojska, supruga cara Ferdinanda, glas o Opatiji proËuo se i na beËkom dvoru. Slijedi ubrzani razvoj mjesta, koje svoje poËetke veæe uz izgradnju crkve πto datira u 13. stoljeÊe, ali je do gradnje vile Angioline bilo praktiËki nepoznato povijesti. Gradi se Kvarner, prvi hotel na Jadranu, a ubrzo se mijenja vizura Ëitava grada − glavnom ulicom prolazi elektriËni tramvaj πto spaja Opatiju sa æeljezniËkom stanicom u obliænjim Matuljima, odakle pruga vodi do BeËa s jedne i Peπte s druge strane, a uza svaku stranu ulice niæu se vile, parkovi, perivoji i hoteli. Uz morsku obalu sagraeno je jedno od najduæih i najljepπih obalnih πetaliπta, dvanaest kilometara dugo Lungomare, koje vijuga u sjeni hrastova, izmeu zelenih vrtova najljepπih kuÊa i valova πto se razbijaju o oπtre stijene. Opatija se sve ËeπÊe usporeuje s gradovima na Azurnoj obali i Karlovim Varyma, tada najpopularnijim europskim odredištima, koje ubrzo nadmaπuje svojim ugledom. Aduti Opatije, koji je razlikuju od veÊine jadranskih obalnih gradova, nikad nisu bili ljeto, more i sunce. Ta Stara dama, kako su je prozvali posjetitelji, naglaπavajuÊi njezinu otmjenost i dugu tradiciju, bila je poznata kao zimski vrt BeËa, omiljeno zimsko ljeËiliπte meu druπtvenom, politiËkom i umjetniËkom kremom tada najmoÊnije dræave u Europi. S temeljima u bistrim vodama Kvarnerskog zaljeva i krovom meu oblacima πto plove nebeskim plavetnilom iznad UËke, najviπe kvarnerske planine, Opatija je spojila najbolje od oba svijeta, iskoristila svoju jedinstvenu mjeπavinu mediteranske i planinske klime i izgradila svoj imidæ mjesta stvorenoga za odmor, relaksaciju, ali i ozdravljenje duha i tijela. Takav tretman svojim su pacijentima propisivali istaknuti struËnjaci kao πto je otac europske laringologije Leopold Schrötter

Hotel Miramar, jedan od najtraæenijih opatijskih turistiËkih objekata Miramar Hotel, one of Opatija’s most popular tourist facilities

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Villa Esperia, izgraďŁżena 1989. godine Villa Esperia, constructed in 1989

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Kristelli ili Julius Glax, utemeljitelj nekoliko pravaca suvremene medicine, koji je i otvorio ordinaciju u Opatiji. I danas, zbog brojnih wellness i spa sadræaja u hotelima i specijaliziranim centrima, kao i mnogih specijalistiËkih medicinskih ordinacija i klinika svjetskoga glasa, Opatija uspjeπno odræava taj imidæ, πto su ga diljem svijeta pronijeli neki od najznaËajnijih umova 19. i 20. stoljeÊa. More je tako glatko da se svaka brodica, svako jedro odraæava kao u zrcalu. Na nebu tu i tamo oblaci lagani poput perja, uostalom plavo, sunËano, ni toplo, ni hladno, praπine nema, svjeæina neusporediva. GovoreÊi ozbiljno, ne poznajem mjesto koje bi bolje odgovaralo rekonvalescentima. I koliko samo proljeÊe u takvoj klimi mnogima moæe uπtedjeti kasnija putovanja i terapije. Tako je opatijsku klimu opisao nobelovac Henryk Sienkiewicz, jedan od najslavnijih poljskih pisaca, koji je bio meu brojnim umjetnicima πto su u sjeni UËke, mirisu soli u zraku i ritmiËkom zibanju valova traæili nadahnuÊe za svoja najveÊa djela. Skladatelj Giacomo Puccini ovdje je pisao partiture za svoja remek-djela kao πto su La Boheme ili Madame Butterﬂ y, slavni skladatelj Gustav Mahler upravo je u Opatiji osmislio svoju »etvrtu simfoniju, a plesaËicu i femme fatale prijelaza stoljeÊa, Isadoru Duncan, za najpoznatiji njezin scenski pokret ruku i ramena inspiriralo je treperenje opatijskih palmi pod prozorom sobe u Villi Amaliji. Zima je idealno vrijeme za upoznavanje Opatije u njezinu pravom izdanju. Kad se snjeæni pokrivaË spusti sve do mora, a gradske kavane ureene beËkim stilom napune mirisom toplog Ëaja i svjeæe kave, pod mekim zrakama sunca i raskoπne secesijske vile s potpisima najslavnijih europskih arhitekata 19. i 20. stoljeÊa poprime novu, pomalo mistiËnu auru. Za razliku od ljetnog vremena, kada vruÊina sve misli usmjerava prema moru i plaæama, zima je doba istraæivanja, kada se pogledom otkriva ne samo bogata opatijska kulturna baπtina, nego i 170 duga povijest turizma u ovome gradu, predstavljena u Hrvatskome muzeju turizma, πto se smjestio u slavnoj Villi Angiolini, ali i na dohvatu ruke svakog posjetitelja Opatije, æeljnog istraæivanja. Naime, Opatija je poËela ljubavnom priËom, ali mnoge ljubavne priËe poËele su u Opatiji, pa se i danas moæe pronaÊi skrovito mjesto u parku gdje se car Franjo Josip I. nalazio sa svojom ljubavnicom, glumicom Caterinom Schratt dok je njegova supruga Sissy na francuskoj Rivijeri Ëitala dugo pismo na maarskom, koje joj je poslao, naslovivπi ga moja slatka voljena duπice. No, nije ni Sissy

Fontana u parku sv. Jakova

bila vjerna æena, jer iako sluæbeno nikada nije posjetila Opatiju, mjeπtani Êe i danas pokazati vilu u kojoj se nesluæbeno sastajala sa svojom velikom ljubavi, markantnim maarskim grofom i bivπim premijerom Gyulom Andrassyjem, koji je u Opatiji æivio do smrti. Ljubav i tragedija vezani su uz nastanak danas vjerojatno najslavnijega opatijskog simbola − poznate Djevojke s galebom koja se pojavljuje na svim razglednicama i turistiËkim fotograﬁ jama Opatije. Nakon πto se u olujnome moru potkraj 19. stoljeÊa utopio grof Arthur Kesselstadt, negova obitelj podignula je na tome mjestu skulpturu Madonne del Mare, koja je pedeset godina poslije pohranjena i restaurirana i danas se

The Fountain in the Park of St. Jacob

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Hotel Ambasador poznat je po modernistiËkoj arhitekturi Ambasador Hotel is known for its modern architecture

Magnolija je ponos opatijskih parkova Magnolia, the pride of Opatija’s parks

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Ëuva u Hrvatskome muzeju turizma, a na njezino je mjesto postavljena upravo Djevojka s galebom, odnosno Opatijka, kako je svoje djelo nazivao autor, kipar Zvonko Car. Toliko zanimljivih priËa krije se na samo nekoliko koraka od ishodiπta opatijske povijesti, slavne vile Angioline smjeπtene u prekrasnom parku. A kada bi se pogled podigao joπ dalje, otkrio bi nove pustolovine − πumsko πetaliπte Carmen Sylva, nazvano po supruzi rumunjskog kralja Karla, kojega je lukavi opatijski glavar namamio na ﬁnanciranje gradnje staze koja svojom ljepotom i raskoπi parira obalnoj πetnici, nakon πto se nesretni kralj izgubio u gustoj πumi bez puta prilikom jahanja. Ili Veprinac, opatijsko naselje i jedan od najstarijih povijesnih gradiÊa na Rivijeri, poznat po zakoniku iz 15. stoljeÊa πto se odlikovao za ondaπnje vrijeme priliËno liberalnim standardima, i lijepom Starom gradu u kojemu je i danas podrumska Êelija s okovima, u kojoj se moæe provjeriti kako su se prilikom odsluæivanja kazne osjeÊali lokalni kradljivci i prevaranti. A na vrhu nalazi se UËka, planina u Ëijim su špiljama naeni tragovi civilzacije stare i deset tisuÊa godina, a danas je srediπte opatijske BoæiÊne bajke. Ondje, naime, svoju zimsku rezidenciju ima Djed BoæiÊnjak, pa u lijepu drvenu kuÊicu u hrastovoj πumi, prekrivenoj snijegom, svake godine svojim saonicama stiæe na nekoliko dana kako bi djecu darivao, a i odraslima donio dobro raspoloæenje. Istodobno, u srcu Opatije, Ljetna pozornica na samo nekoliko koraka od morske obale, pretvara se u klizaliπte i srediπte Ledene Ëarolije, koja je u neopisiv doæivljaj spojila klizanje, novogodiπnji ugoaj sa zborskom pjesmom, drvenim kuÊicama u kojima se prodaje kuhano vino i peËene kobasice, te Festival Ëokolade, koji se odræava u prvom vikendu prosinca i dovodi u Opatiju najbolje europske majstore gorko-slatkog uæitka. Tijekom tri dana Ëokolada postaje glavna namirnica u svim aspektima javnog æivota − uza slastice koje se mogu kupiti u kavanama i slastiËarnicama te na sajmu na Ljetnoj pozornici, Ëokoladu se moæe naÊi i u glavnim jelima restorana, ali i u posebnim Choco Spa & Wellness tretmanima i masaæama. Jedinstven je i spoj klasiËne glazbe i vrhunskih Ëokoladnih delicija Festival Kvarner: Pure Chocolate, na kojemu su stavci Straussa, Brahmsa, »ajkovskog i drugih velikih skladatelja paæljvo sljubljeni s pralinama koje svojim okusom naglaπavaju izraæajne odlike glazbenih djela, i koje za publiku biraju iskusni slastiËari. Zima je vrijeme romantike, vrijeme uæitka, vrijeme za odmor i ozdravljenje, a upravo

Opatija veÊ 170 godina sve to na najbolji naËin pruæa svojim gostima. ProljeÊe je, pak, vrijeme buenja prirode, ali i organizma, no opatijsko je podruËje osobito i po tome πto se izmeu zime i proljeÊa stisnulo joπ jedno, peto godiπnje doba. Tako, naime, domaÊe stanovniπtvo naziva svoje vrijeme pusta, odnosno karnevala, koje poËinje veÊ u ponoÊ na blagdan Sveta tri kralja kada na ulice mjesta Æejane - smjeπtenog visoko u brdima iznad Opatije - izlaze zvonËari, krπni momci odjeveni u æivotinjsku koæu i opasani teπkim zvonima kojima tjeraju zloduhe, i traje sve do Pepelnice, kada se tradicionalno spaljuje mesopust kako bi odgovarao za sve grijehe poËinjene u protekloj godini. To je vrijeme ludosti i veselja, koje se u Opatiji posebno obiljeæava s tri manifestacije spojene u nezaboravni vikend sredinom veljaËe. To su Balinjerada, najlua utrka na svijetu, u kojoj se stotine natjecatelja spuπtaju niz glavnu ulicu na ruËno izraenim vozilima koja umjesto kotaËa imaju kugliËne leæajeve ili balinjere. Tu je i ples pod maskama, koji okuplja diplomate, politiËare, gospodarstvenike i druπtvenu kremu tog podruËja, te Maπkarani klapski maraton, na kojemu se najbolje hrvatske klape natjeËu u pjevanju karnevalskih poskoËica. . s with most love stories, Opatija’s love story is also a blend of tragic and happy moments, creating a legend to be retold for hundreds of years. During the 40s of the 19 th century, the wealthy merchant from Rijeka Iginio Scarpa became the proprietor of a large piece of land on the coast near a village of some hundred houses, which were mostly inhabited by ﬁshermen and which were located near the Abbey of St. Jacob, after which the entire town was named. As a pledge of his love for his wife Angiolina, who had died twelve years earlier, he decided to erect a luxurious villa which he named after her. The Villa was built in 1844 and quickly became a sought-after destination not only amongst the wealthy residents of the adjacent City of Rijeka, but also the rest of the country. And once Ban Josip JelaËiÊ and Empress Maria Anna of Savoy, the wife of Emperor Ferdinand, stayed in it, the reputation of Opatija soon spread to the Court of Vienna. This was followed by an accelerated development of the town, the beginnings of which are tied to the construction of a church which dates from the 13th century, but which had been virtually unknown to history prior to the construction of Villa Angiolina. Kvarner, the ﬁrst hotel on the Adriatic, was built, and

RomantiËna veËera uz more − Ëest izbor opatijskih gostiju A romantic seaside dinner − a popular choice by Opatija’s guests

Restoran i hotel Bevanda Bevanda Hotel and Restaurant Hotel sv. Jakov Sv. Jakov Hotel

Magnolija u cvatu Hotel sv. Jakov

Magnolia in bloom

Sv. Jakov Hotel Park Angiolina Angiolina Park

Hotel Kvarner Kvarner Hotel

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Festival čokolade Chocolate festival

Volosko koncert Volosko concert Hotel Palace kraj kupaliπta Slatina Palace Hotel beside Slatina Beach Zvončari

Restoran Bevanda i obalna πetnica Lungomare Bevanda Restaurant and the Lungomare seaside promenade Vojak

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soon the vista of the entire town changed − an electric tram ran along the main street connecting Opatija with the railway station at nearby Matulji, from where a railway line was headed in the direction of Vienna on the one hand and Pest on the other, with each side of the street dotted with villas, parks, gardens and hotels. Along the coastline, one of the longest and most beautiful seaside promenades stretches, the twelve kilometre long Lungomare, meandering in the shade of oak trees, and between the lush green gardens of the ﬁ nest houses and waves breaking on sharp rocks. Opatija was increasingly compared with cities on the Cote d’Azur and Karlovy Vary, the most popular European destinations at the time, outstripping both with its prestige. The trump cards of Opatija, which set it apart from most of the coastal cities on the Adriatic, were never the summer, the sea and sunshine. This Old Lady, as it was termed by its visitors highlighting its elegance and long tradition, was known as the conservatory of Vienna, a favourite winter, health resort amongst the social, political and artistic crème de la crème of the then most powerful state in Europe. With foundations in the clear waters of the Kvarner Bay and roofed with clouds sailing the blue skies above UËka, the highest mountain of Kvarner, Opatija is a perfect blend of the best of both worlds, exploiting its unique fusion of the Mediterranean and mountain climates, and building its reputation as a place perfect for holidays, relaxation, and the healing of body and soul. Such treatment was prescribed to patients by prominent experts, such as the father of European laryngology Leopold Schrötter Kristelli or Julius Glax, the founder of several disciplines of modern medicine who opened a surgery in Opatija. Thanks to numerous wellness and spa facilities in hotels and specialised centres, as well as many specialised medical clinics and hospitals with a global reputation, Opatija has been successfully maintaining its image to date, an image spread the world over by some of the most remarkable minds of the 19 th and 20 th centuries. The sea is so smooth that each boat, each sail is reﬂected as in a mirror. The blue sky is speckled here and there with clouds as light as feathers, while the weather is sunny, neither hot nor cold, there is no dust and the freshness is incomparable. In all seriousness, I do not know of a place that would better suit convalescents. And just the extent to which spending a spring in such a

climate can spare many the trouble of going on subsequent trips and therapy. This is how Opatija’s climate was described by the Nobel Prize-winning Henryk Sienkiewicz, one of the most famous Polish writers, who was amongst the many artists that sought inspiration for their greatest works in the shadow of Mount UËka, the smell of salt in the air and the rhythmic rocking of the waves. It was here that composer Giacomo Puccini wrote the music scores of his masterpieces La Boheme or Madame Butterﬂy; it was in Opatija that the equally famous composer Gustav Mahler conceived his Symphony No. 4; it was here that the ballet dancer and the femme fatale from the turn of the century Isadora Duncan was inspired by the waving

Park ispred UmjetniËkog paviljona Juraj Šporer Park in front of the Art Pavilion Juraj Šporer

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Kupaliπte Slatina Slatina Beach

©etaliπte u parku sv. Jakova The promenade in the Park of St. Jacob

Fontana u parku sv. Jakova The fountain in the Park of St. Jacob

Park Juraja ©porera, umjetniËka instalacija Ljube de Karine (Ljubo de Karina, akademski kipar) Juraj ©porer’s Park, art installation by Ljubo de Karina (Ljubo de Karina, academic sculptor)

Park Margarita Margarita Park

Slatina, snijeg Slatina, snow

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of Opatija’s palm trees under the windows of her room in Villa Amalia for her most famous stage movement of the arms and shoulders. Winter is the perfect time to get to know Opatija at its best. When the snow cover descends all the way to the seafront and the Viennese style town cafes are filled with the smell of hot tea and freshly made coffee, under the soft rays of the sun even the luxurious art deco villas signed by the most famous European architects of the 19 th and 20th centuries take on a new, somewhat mystical aura. Unlike the summer months when the heat steers all thought towards the sea and beaches, winter is a time of exploration when sightseeing unveils not only the rich cultural heritage of Opatija, but also the 170 year long history of tourism of this town, presented at the Croatian Museum of Tourism situated in the famous Villa Angiolina, but also within reach of every visitor keen on exploring. Opatija began with a love story, and many love stories began in Opatija − you can still find the hidden place in a park where Emperor Franz Joseph I would meet his mistress, the actress Katharina Schratt, while his wife Sissy was on the French Riviera reading his long letters in Hungarian opening with my dear beloved sweetheart. However, Sissy was not faithful to her husband either − although she never visited Opatija officially, even today locals know the villa where she used to meet unofficially with her great love, the striking Hungarian Count and former prime minister Gyula Andrássy, who lived in Opatija until his death. Love and tragedy are closely tied to the coming into being of today probably the most famous symbol of Opatija − the famous Girl with a Seagull that appears on all the postcards and tourist photographs of Opatija. After Count Arthur Kesselstadt drowned in the stormy seas at the end of the 19 th century, his family erected the sculpture Madonna del Mare, which was stored and restored fifty years later. It is today kept at the Croatian Museum of Tourism, and in its place there came the sculpture Girl with a Seagull or the Woman from Opatija as its author, the sculptor Zvonko Car, called it. Countless interesting stories are nestled just a few steps from the source of Opatija’s history, the famous Villa Angiolina located in a beautiful park. And if you look up, you will find new adventures − the forest walkway Carmen Sylva, named after the wife of Romania’s King Charles, who was persuaded by a cunning governor of Opatija to finance the construction of the walkway, whose beauty and splendour matches the coastal

promenade, once the unfortunate King got lost while riding in the dense forest without any trails. Or Veprinac, an Opatija neighbourhood and one of the oldest historical towns on the Riviera, known not only for its legal code from the 15th century, prescribing standards considered to be rather liberal at the time, but also the lovely Old Town still hiding a basement cell with shackles which visitors can put on to experience the way that local thieves and tricksters felt while serving their sentences. And at the very top, there is UËka, a mountain in whose caves traces of a ten thousand year old civilisation have been discovered, and which is today the centre of Opatija’s Christmas Fairy Tale.

Park Angiolina i Villa Angiolina Angiolina Park and Villa Angiolina

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Stepeniπte ispod opatijske gimnazije The stairway below Opatija’s grammar school

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More speciﬁcally, Santa Claus himself has his winter residence there, and so he arrives every year on his sleigh to reside for a few days in a beautiful timber house in an oak forest covered with snow to deliver gifts to children and high spirits to adults. At the same time, at the very heart of Opatija, the Summer Stage, just a few steps from the coast, transforms into an ice rink and the centre of Ice Magic, offering an indescribable experience that brings together skating, New Year’s atmosphere including choral singing, wooden stands offering mulled wine and grilled sausages, and the Chocolate Festival, which takes place during the ﬁrst weekend in December, and which brings to Opatija the top European masters of this bittersweet

delight. During three days, chocolate becomes the main ingredient in all the aspects of public life − besides sweets that are sold in cafes and pastry shops, as well as at the fair on the Summer Stage, chocolate can also be found in the main courses at restaurants, as well as in special Choco Spa & Wellness treatments and massages. The blend of classical music and world-class chocolate delights is also unique − Festival Kvarner: Pure Chocolate, at which the music of Strauss, Brahms, Tchaikovsky and other great composers is carefully matched to pralines, which accentuate the expressive qualities of their music with their fl avour, and which are selected for the audience by experienced confectioners. Winter is a time of romance, a time of pleasure, a time of retreat and healing, and Opatija has been offering the best of the above to its guests for 170 years already. Spring, on the other hand, is a time of the awakening of nature, but also of the body. However, Opatija is a town that stands out by the fact that a fifth season squeezed inbetween the seasons of winter and spring. This is, in fact, the way that the locals call the time of Carnival festivities, which start at midnight on the Feast of Epiphany, when the streets of Æejane − perched high in the hills above Opatija − are overflown with bellringers, burly guys dressed in animal skin and strapped up with heavy bells driving off evil spirits. It lasts until Ash Wednesday, when an effigy is traditionally burnt as punishment for all sins committed in the past year. It is a time of foolishness and joy, which Opatija celebrates with three events merged into an unforgettable weekend in mid-February − Balinjerada, the craziest soapbox race in the world in which hundreds of contestants descend down the main street in handmade vehicles that have ball bearings or balinjere instead of wheels, a masked ball bringing together diplomats, politicians, entrepreneurs and the social crème de la crème of the region, and the Carnival A Cappella Singing Marathon at which the best Croatian a cappella singing groups compete in singing carnival songs. ■

Zrakoplovi Croatia Airlinesa povezivat Êe gradove Rijeku i München od 29. oæujka 2015. godine. Letovi su veÊ dostupni u rezervacijskom sustavu. Croatia Airlines’ aircraft will connect the cities of Rijeka and Munich as of 29th March 2015. Flights can already be booked.

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POSLJEDNJI ROMANTIK ZAGORSKE GASTRONOMIJE THE LAST ROMANTIC OF ZAGORJE CUISINE U Mariji Bistrici skriva se oaza suptilnosti i luksuza, u kojoj kuhar Tomislav KoæiÊ ulaæe svoje dugogodiπnje iskustvo u stvaranje autentiËnih jela Hrvatskog zagorja. Premalo vlasnika restorana u Zagorju brine se o autohtonoj lokalnoj gastronomiji, kao πto se naæalost dogaa i u drugim dijelovima Hrvatske, iskreno kaæe KoæiÊ, chef restorana Academia u sklopu Bluesun hotela Kaj, koji u srcu zagorskog zelenila predano razvija suvremene adaptacije tradicionalne gastronomije toga idiliËnog kraja. Ovo πto radimo mi u Academiji teæi je put − nije jednostavno osmisliti jelo s tradicionalnim namirnicama u novom ruhu i objasniti tu priËu svojim gostima. 96

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Freestyle pristup prezentaciji hrane Vjerojatno nema jela koje bi viπe simboliziralo Hrvatsko zagorje od purice s mlincima. U KoæiÊevoj verziji, jelu nazvanom Purica na dlanu, pureÊa su prsa sporo kuhana u vakuumu i zatim prepeËena, a posluæuju se uz pire od buËe, povrÊe i soufﬂé od mlinaca. Novi trendovi u pripremanju hrane nisu nikakve tajne, ja se samo trudim pratiti ih i implementirati u svom radu. Kuhanje je, naime, funkcija temperature i vremena. Ako tu puricu stavim kuhati u vreÊici

na 55°C neko duæe vrijeme, a poslije samo prepeËem, meso je mnogo mekanije i soËnije nego ako ga samo stavim u peÊ. Dobar primjer vjernosti tradicionalnim namirnicama jest i KoæiÊev recept pajcek med jabukami, u kojemu se kao prilog rabe zagorske jabuke, a u umak se dodaje groæe sorte izabela, speciﬁËne upravo za taj kraj. Preliveno medom i takoer sporo peËeno, u ovom jelu posluæuje se ni manje ni viπe nego − carsko meso. Lako je raditi s vrhunskim komadima mesa, npr.

svinjskim ﬁleom ili juneÊim ramstekom. Carsko meso pak ljude asocira na neπto masno i stoga neatraktivno, tako da je pravi izazov napraviti neπto vrhunsko i od takvih namirnica. Prezentacija hrane na tanjuru mora biti iskrena, kaæe Tomislav opisujuÊi joπ jednu crtu koja ga izdvaja od veÊine ostalih kuhara. Prezentacija hrane ne mora biti sterilna, svakoga dana moæe se mijenjati i nadograivati. Kao πto su kod poslovnih ljudi razliËito ureeni radni stolovi, tako i moja jela odraæavaju mene. Ako se osjeÊaπ super, neka se to vidi na tanjuru. Ja bih to nazvao nekim freestyle pristupom.

Iz Zagorja u svijet ©kolovan na uglednoj pariπkoj akademiji Ecole Ritz Escofﬁer, KoæiÊ je nedavno proglaπen najboljim zagorskim kuharom u 2014. godini, treÊi put u Ëetiri godine dodjeljivanja tog priznanja. Iako je veÊ pet godina chef jednoga od najcjenjenijih restorana kontinentalne Hrvatske, Tomislav se ne boji izaÊi iz svoje zone udobnosti. Proπle godine proveo je tri mjeseca staæirajuÊi u Londonu u restoranima Pollen Street Social, Hibiscus i Dinner by Heston Blumenthal s jednom i dvije Michelinove zvjezdice. Ti su restorani oaze luksuza za goste, a u njihovim kuhinjama naporno radi i po tridesetak kuhara i Ëlanova osoblja. U kuhinji

vlada vojniËka disciplina i sva se energija troπi na to da svako iduÊe jelo napravite joπ bræe i joπ bolje. Kuhari se izmjenjuju svakodnevno jer ne mogu izdræati takav tempo i najviπe kriterije. Tek nakon mjesec dana rada ondje na neki naËin dobijete ime, izborite se za status, da niste viπe samo broj. Non-stop se dela, ali kad vidite rezultat toga, svjesni ste da je vrijedilo. To je vrh gastronomije. Iskustva iz ponajboljih londonskih restorana KoæiÊ Êe ovoga ljeta imati priliku implementirati u hotelskim restoranima u sklopu lanca Bluesun Hotels & Resorts, gdje je postao izvrπni chef grupacije s hotelima na nekim od najljepπih hrvatskih plaæa, od Zlatnog rata preko Brela i TuËepa do Starigrad-Paklenice.

In the heart of the Croatian Zagorje, an idyllic hilly region in the north-west of the country, lies a small town called Marija Bistrica, where Chef Tomislav KoæiÊ puts his rich experience into practice by creating original Zagorje specialties. Not enough restaurant owners in Zagorje care about the authentic local cuisine, which unfortunately applies to other parts of Croatia as well, says KoæiÊ, head chef of Academia at the Bluesun Hotel Kaj. There, in the unspoiled greenery of Zagorje, KoæiÊ is dedicated to developing modern adaptations of the region’s traditional dishes. We do it the hard way here at Academia − it’s not that simple to create a meal combining traditional ingredients with new trends and then explaining that story to your guests.

A freestyle approach to food presentation The most distinctive and popular specialty from the Zagorje region is probably turkey with mlinci (a kind of dried ﬂatbread soaked in boiled water). Chef KoæiÊ’s version, called purica na dlanu (turkey in the palm of your hand), features turkey breast cooked sous-vide and CROATIA AIRLINES

then baked and served with pumpkin purée, vegetables and a kind of mlinci soufflé. I just try to keep track of trends in food preparation. Cooking is in essence a function of temperature and time. If I first cook the turkey breast in a sealed bag (sous-vide) at 55°C, the meat becomes softer and juicier than it would have been if had I just baked it in the oven. A good example of staying true to traditional ingredients is KoæiÊ’s recipe for pajcek med jabukami (pork with apples), which combines locally grown apples with the Izabela grape variety specific to Zagorje, as well as a fairly specific cut of meat − pork belly. It’s easy to work with premium cuts of meat, i.e., pork fillet or beef rump steak. Pork belly, being perceived as a heavy and fattening dish presents a real challenge when creating a memorable meal. Food presentation has to be sincere, Tomislav says while describing another characteristic that separates him from most other chefs. The way you decorate food doesn’t have to be set. Just like desks of different business people are individually organized, so are the meals that I present at the restaurant. If you’re feeling great, show it on the plate. Its a kind of freestyle approach.

From Zagorje to the world Educated at the prestigious Ritz Escofﬁer cooking school in Paris, KoæiÊ was recently named Zagorje’s Best Chef in 2014, which is the third time he has received the honor out of the four years that the award has been given out. Although he has been the chef of one of Croatia’s most renowned restaurants for 98

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ﬁve years now, Tomislav has not been afraid to step out of his comfort zone. Last year, he spent three months basically as an intern at several London restaurants with 1 and 2 Michelin stars: Pollen Street Social, Hibiscus and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal. These restaurants offer an ambience of luxury to their guests, while at the same time, as many as 30 staff members work hard behind the scenes in the kitchen. It’s military discipline out there, focus is all about doing it quicker and better every time you’re preparing a meal. Chefs come and go on a daily basis because many of them can’t keep up. Only after about

a month do you get called by name, which is a kind of acknowledgement that you’re no longer just a number. It’s non stop hard work, but once you see the results, you know it has all been worth it. That is being at the pinnacle of gastronomy. This summer KoæiÊ will have the chance to use the experiences from London’s finest restaurants at his new job at Bluesun Hotels & Resorts, where he has become the executive chef for the whole hotel chain. The company has hotels on some of Croatia’s most attractive beaches: on Zlatni Rat, in Brela, TuËepi and Starigrad Paklenica. ■

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KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA INLAND CROATIA

Usred dinarskog dijela Hrvatske podruËje je velike prirodne vrijednosti. DinamiËan je to kraj neobiËne ljepote i πarma, u kojemu se izmjenjuju brda i doline. Kroz doline teku rijeke ili potoci, a plodno tlo privuklo je u njih ljude od davnina. ©umom pokrivena brda dom su, pak, divljim æivotinjama. U viπe ili manje meusobnoj toleranciji Ëovjek i priroda ovdje meusobno egzistiraju tisuÊama godina. Taj kraj zove se Lika.

Amid the Croatian Dinarides, there is an area of exceptional natural beauty and charm with undulating hills and valleys. Rivers and streams ﬂow through the valleys, and since ancient times, the fertile soil has attracted people to them. The wooded hills are the home of wild animals. Man and nature have mutually existed for thousands of years, relatively tolerant of one another. This dynamic environment is called Lika.

Tekst i fotograﬁje/Text and photos Krunoslav Rac

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Hrana je, uz vodu, temelj opstanka ljudi na nekom podruËju. Plodna liËka polja upravo su idealna za njezinu proizvodnju. Iako je ovaj brdsko-planinski kraj hladan i ponekad surov za æivot, ovdje uspijevaju gotovo sve poljoprivredne kulture. Food, along with water, is the basis of survival for people in any given area. The fertile ﬁelds of Lika are just perfect for crop production. Although this highland region is cold and sometimes hard on all forms of life, almost all agricultural crops thrive there.

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iku na sjeveru omeuju planinski lanci Male i Velike Kapele. Na zapadu i jugozapadu to je Velebit, koji je ponos toga kraja, a na istoku prirodna je granica planina LiËka Pljeπivica. Lika je veliko podruËje koje se u geografskim i povijesnim cjelinama dijeli na tri dijela. To su Krbava, Gacka i Lika. Srediπte, i danas najveÊi grad u Lici, jest GospiÊ. Pretpostavlja se da je GospiÊ nastao na podruËju naselja Kaseg, koje se spominje 1263. godine. Kako je dobio sadaπnje ime, ne zna se sa sigurnoπÊu. Jedna je od teorija da je svoje novo ime grad dobio po Gospi. Druga legenda kaæe da su dvije kneginje svojedobno putovale tim krajem. Jedna od njih, Gospava, bila je teπko bolesna. Kad se napila vode iz rijeke, ozdravi, te rijeci da ime Lika po rijeËi lik, kako se na ikavici kaæe za lijek. Na tome mjestu sagradi kulu koja je po njoj dobila ime GospiÊ. I samo ime Lika ima viπe teorija nastanka. Po jednoj, ono je nastalo od veÊ spomenute rijeke, a druga kaæe da je nastala od grËke rijeËi likos, πto znaËi vuk. Taj mudri grabeæljivac jedan je od simbola ovoga kraja. No, nije to jedina zvijer koja luta ovdaπnjim πumama. U Lici æive sve tri velike europske zvijeri. Uz vuka tu æive smei medvjed i ris. I sve te vrste opstaju na podruËju dovoljno velikom i za Ëovjeka i za zvijeri. Krbava se nalazi na istoËnom dijelu Like. Nju karakterizira prostrano Krbavsko polje kroz koje teËe istoimena rijeka, a iznad njega se, poput gorostasa, izdiæe LiËka Pljeπivica. IdiliËno je to podruËje koje u svojim njedrima krije prirodni dragulj. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera jedan je od krπkih fenomena, ne samo u Hrvatskoj, nego i u cijelome svijetu. »udo prirode nastalo utjecajem vode i krπa jedno je od najfascinantnijih okoliπa u Europi. Njegov temeljni fenomen osobit je naËin stvaranja sedre. Stvaranjem vapnene kore na podvodnoj vegetaciji, najËeπÊe mahovini, na mjestima prelijevanja vode nastaju ustave, kojima je dolina rijeke Korane preinaËena u niz od 16 stepenasto poredanih bazena s protoËnim jezerima. Na mjestima gdje se kristalno bistra voda prelijeva iz jednog jezera u drugo, nastaju slapovi. Svaki je jedinstven i osobit. Nevjerojatna ljepota parka godiπnje privlaËi viπe od 1,300.00 turista, πto je za hrvatske pojmove golema brojka, ali i pokretaË razvoja tog kraja. U podruËju oko parka tradicionalan naËin æivota Ëovjeka s prirodom i od prirode gubi bitku s neusporedivo lagodnijim æivotom koji donosi turizam. Gacka je predio Like u kojemu turizam joπ nije glavna gospodarska grana, ali postaje sve znaËajniji. Ljude privlaËi prekrasna Gacka dolina kroz koju lijeno, poput Ëudoviπne zmije,

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teËe krπka ljepotica, rijeka Gacka. Upravo je rijeka mamac koji ljude privlaËi u taj kraj od davnina. Ljudi su u Gackoj dolini æivjeli i u dalekoj povijesti, jer rijeke su oduvijek privlaËile ljude, a Gacka nije bilo kakva rijeka. Iako nije duga, po mnogoËemu je osobita. Po kvaliteti vode smatra se drugom najËiπÊom rijekom u Europi. Iako su uz njezin gornji tok naselja, ona se i danas bez problema moæe piti. DomaÊi su stanovnici rijeku uvijek snaæno poπtovali i divili joj se. To je potpuno razumljivo jer ona im je æivot uljepšavala i olakšavala. Gacka je jedna od najstarijih hrvatskih regija, a stanovnici GaËani i njihov voa Borna prvi se put spominju 818. godine, u vrijeme formiranja ranosrednjovjekovne hrvatske dræave. Arheoloπki nalazi u PeÊini kod LiËkog LeπÊa svjedoËe o postojanju Ëovjeka na tim prostorima joπ iz doba mezolitika, odnosno prijelaza iz starijega u mlae kameno doba (10.000 do 4000 g. prije Krista) kada je joπ bio lovac na divlje æivotinje. I bliæa povijest cijele Like ima blistavih trenutaka. Na podruËju Kosinja tiskana je prva knjiga u Hrvata. Bio je to brevijar iz 1491. godine, nedugo nakon πto je Gutenberg izumio tiskanje knjiga pomiËnim slovima. I jedan od najveÊih svjetskih znanstvenika uopÊe dolazi iz Like. Genijalni Nikola Tesla roen je u Smiljanu nedaleko

od GospiÊa, gdje danas u njegovu Ëast postoji memorijalni centar posveÊen njemu i njegovim izumima. Hrana je, uz vodu, temelj opstanka ljudi na nekom podruËju. Plodna liËka polja upravo su idealna za njezinu proizvodnju. Iako je ovaj brdsko-planinski kraj hladan i ponekad surov za æivot, ovdje uspijevaju gotovo sve poljoprivredne kulture. Prostrano liËko polje, nad kojim se poput straæara nadvio Velebit, jedno je od najplodnijih u Lici. Rijeke NovËica, Bogdanica i najveÊa Lika svake se godine izlijevaju iz svog korita hraneÊi tlo novim slojem mulja. Iz plodne zemlje dolazi najpoznatiji liËki proizvod, krumpir. Hladne noÊi usporavaju vegetaciju i tako se u njemu skuplja suha tvar, te je upravo zbog toga neusporedivo bolji od krumpira iz drugih krajeva Hrvatske. No, nepobitno je da je svake godine na liËkim poljima sve manje obraene povrπine. Mladi napuπtaju ruralna podruËja i odlaze u gradove u potrazi za lagodnijim æivotom. U poËetku 20. stoljeÊa ovdje je æivjelo oko 200.000 ljudi, a taj broj stoljeÊe poslije pao je ispod 40.000. Taj trend se nastavlja. Velik broj mladih ljudi teæi doseljavanju u betonske okove velikih gradova. Iza sebe ostavljaju prekrasan prirodni krajolik koji je, koliko god ponekad bio surov, neusporedivo idiliËniji od betona i æeljeza.

Ipak, ima i onih koji svim svojim osjetilima upijaju miris πume, æubor vode i pjev ptica u prekrasnim liËkim praskozorjima. . n the North, Lika is bordered by the mountain ranges of Mala and Velika Kapela. In the west and south-west, it is bordered by Velebit which is the pride of the region. In the east, the natural boundary is the LiËka Pleπivica mountain. Lika is a large territory which is divided into three geographical and historical areas: Krbava, Gacka and Lika. Today, GospiÊ is the biggest city in Lika, as well as its centre.. It is believed that GospiÊ originated in the village of Kaseg which was ﬁrst mentioned in documents in the year 1263. How it got its current name is not known with any degree of certainty. One theory is that the city got its new name after Our Lady. Another

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legend says that two princesses once traveled through this area. One of them, Gospava, was seriously ill. When she drank water from the river, she was cured, and she named the river Lika after the word lik, which is the word for medicine in ikavica. She had a tower built at that location which was named GospiÊ after her. And the name Lika itself has multiple theories of how it originated. According to one, it is a result of the aforementioned river, while another claims that it derived from the Greek word likos, meaning wolf. This wise predator is one of the symbols of this region. But this is not the only beast that roams the local forests. Lika is inhabited by three large European beasts. Alongside the wolf, the brown bear and the lynx live there as well. And all of these species survive in an area large enough for both man and beast. Krbava is located in the eastern part of Lika. It is characterized by the spacious Krbava Field where a river of the same name flows through it, and where LiËka Pljeπivica rises above it like a giant. It is an idyllic area which conceals a natural jewel: the Plitvice Lakes National Park, which is one of the karstic phenomena not only in Croatia but also in the whole world. The miracle of nature caused by water and karst makes for one of the most fascinating environments in Europe. The phenomenon is basically a special method of limestone formation. By creating lime incrustation on the underwater vegetation, usually moss, in places of water overflow, barrages are created which transform the Korana River’s valley into a series of 16 cascading pools with flowing lakes. Falls are created in places where the crystally clear water overflows from one lake to another. Each one is unique and special. The amazing beauty of the park attracts more than 1.3 million tourists per year, which are significant figures as far as Croatia is concerned, but it is also the driving force behind development in the region. In the area around the park, there is one traditional way of life, man with nature, but nature is losing its battle to an unparalleled lifestyle of leisure brought about by tourism. Gacka is a region of Lika where tourism is still not the main branch of business activity, but it is becoming more and more important. People are attracted to the beautiful Gacka Valley for the karstic beauty of the Gacka River which runs sluggishly through it like a monstrous snake. It is the river that serves as bait, and has lured people into the area since ancient times. People also lived in the Gacka Valley in the distant past, mostly because rivers are known to attract people to them, but Gacka is no ordinary river. Although not very long, it is special in many ways. As far as water qual112

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ity is concerned, it is considered to be the second cleanest river in Europe. Although its upper stream is lined with settlements, it can still be consumed as drinking water today. Local residents strongly respect and admire the river because it has made their lives easier and more beautiful. Gacka is one of the oldest Croatian regions, and its residents GaËani and their leader Borna were first mentioned in documents in the year 818 at the time when an early medieval state was formed in Croatia. Archaeological findings in PeÊina near LiËko LeπÊe serve as a witness to the existence of man in this region dating back to the Mesolithic Period i.e., the transition from the Early to the Late Stone Age (10,000 to 4,000 BC) when man was still a hunter of wild animals. There have been many memorable moments in the entire history of Lika. The first Croatian book was printed in the Kosinj region. It was a breviary from 1491, shortly after Gutenberg invented book printing by movable type. One of the greatest scientists ever comes from Lika, the genius Nikola Tesla, who was born in Smiljan near GospiÊ. Today, there is a memorial centre in his honour dedicated to him and his inventions. Food, along with water, is the basis of survival for people in any given area. The fertile fields of Lika are just perfect for crop production. 114

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Although this highland region is cold and sometimes hard on all forms of life, almost all agricultural crops thrive there. The large field of Lika with Velebit hanging above like a guard is among the most fertile fields in all of Lika. The rivers NovËica, Bogdanica and Lika, the largest one, pour out of their river bed every year, fertilizing the soil with a new layer of mud. The fertile land produces the most famous product of Lika − the potato. Cold nights slow down vegetation; because of this, dry matter is formed, which is precisely the reason why it is incomparably better than potatoes from other Croatian regions. But the undeniable fact is that every year there is less and less cultivated land on Lika’s fields. Young people leave rural areas and go to the cities in search of a more leisurely life. In the early 20th century, about 200,000 people lived there; a century later, that number has fallen to below 40,000 and continues to drop to this day. Young people in groves flock to the cement confines of big cities. They leave behind breathtaking natural landscapes which, as crude as it can be sometimes, is more idyllic when compared to concrete and iron. Nevertheless, there are those who indulge all of their senses by absorbing the smells of the forest, the Murmurs of running water, and the Song of birds in beautiful Lika mornings. ■

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Promenade du Paillon − πetaliπte s fontanama Promenade du Paillon − the fountain walkway

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NAŠA ODREDIŠTA OUR DESTINATIONS

Piše/By Dubravka Belas Fotograﬁje/Photos TZ Nice/Nice Tourist Board

Kad se, iz smjera Italije, avion poËne spuπtati prema zraËnoj luci Nice Côte d’Azur, pogled kroz prozor jest spektakularan. Pribliæavate se drugom, poslije Pariza, turistiËkom odrediπtu u Francuskoj, usporedno s najpoznatijom europskom obalom na kojoj se, u morskoj izmaglici, ocrtavaju Ventimiglia, Menton, Monte Carlo. Dubrovnik Êe biti povezan s Nicom letovima Croatia Airlinesa od 10. travnja do 23. listopada 2015. godine. When the aircraft coming from the direction of Italy begins to descend towards the Côte d ‘Azur Airport of Nice, you experience a spectacular view through the window. You are getting closer to the second most popular tourist destination in France after Paris, to the most widely known European coast, where you can see the outlines of Ventimiglia, Menton and Monte Carlo in the sea mist. Dubrovnik will be connected to Nice by Croatia Airlines’ ﬂights from 10th of April to 23rd of October 2015.

brzo Êe avion lagano skrenuti prema obali i sad Êete veÊ moÊi prepoznati u more duboko izboËen, nazubljen uvalama, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, poluotok raskoπnih vila. Umotane u svoje perivoje, omeene visokim, njegovanim æivicama, niπta ne otkrivaju prolaznicima. Tek se ovako, iz zraka, nazire razvedeno crvenilo krovova i modrina njihovih ribnjaka i bazena. Neke od tih vila otvorene su za razgled, poput elegantne ruæiËaste vile Ephrussi de Rotschild, koju je, u kiÊenom stilu belle époque, sagradila i uredila baronesa Charlotte Beatrice de Rotschild. Osim kraljevske raskoπi vile, sedam hektara tematski ureenih parkova, sa zbirkama biljaka iz razliËitih dijelova svijeta, u kojima je ekscentriËna baronesa vjenËavala pseÊe parove, dræala gazele, antilope, majmunËiÊe i ptiËarnike, i danas su prava poslastica za posjetitelje.

Tu je i vila Santo Sospir, poznata po svome gostu Jeanu Cocteauu, koji je ovamo doπao u posjet na nekoliko dana i ostao jedanaest godina. Unutarnje zidove vile Cocteau je oslikao freskama. Njegov ga je horror vacui natjerao da prazne zidove u unutraπnjosti prekrije crteæima, da ih tetovira, kako je govorio, i to je radio godinama. Kod oslikavanja nije pomicao namjeπtaj, nego je crtao uokolo njega, a ponekad i preko njega, ako bi to motiv zahtijevao. Zavrπivπi sa zidovima, bijeli su mu se stropovi uËinili golima, pa je oslikao i njih. Vila se danas moæe razgledati uz najavu, a Cocteauove se freske mogu pogledati i u ribarskoj kapelici sv. Petra u susjednom Villefranche-sur-Mer, te u dva mala muzeja i dvorani za vjenËavanje mentonske vijeÊnice. NadlijeÊemo dalje uvalu u Villefrancheu-surMer; trgovaËku luku na kojoj Nica temelji svoj uspon u 17. stoljeÊu. Jedna je od najdubljih

prirodnih luka na Sredozemlju i moæe primiti najveÊe brodove, a svojedobno je ondje nakratko bila usidrena Ëak i ruska mornarica kad je Rusija u Krimskom ratu izgubila prava na Crno more pa joj je bila prijeko potrebna druga mornariËka baza. Zlatno doba Nice nastupa dodjelom povlastica luci u Villefrancheu, a kraljevska kuÊa Savoia, koja je tada upravljala gradom, zaπtitila je svoj pristup Sredozemlju izgradnjom citadele i tvrave na brdu Alban. Grad se razvija zbog pomorske trgovine izmeu Provanse i Ligurije. Osniva se senat, Nica dobiva intendanta. Ozlojeen neuspjehom dvaju uzastopnih pokuπaja anektiranja Nice, Kralj Sunce ruπi citadelu i bedeme oko grada, koji pripada sardinskom kraljevstvu. Osloboen okova zidina, grad se πiri i gospodarski razvija, podiæu se barokne crkve, a potkraj 18. stoljeÊa, kad pristiæu i prve engleske i ruske obitelji da CROATIA AIRLINES

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Detalj proËelja katedrale sv. Reparate A detail on the facade of the Cathedral of St. Reparata

Karneval na Promenade des Anglais A carnival on the Promenade des Anglais

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ovdje provedu zimu, raa se turizam. VeÊ sredinom 19. stoljeÊa turisti donose viπe novca od uzgoja tradicionalnih kultura. Gradi se luka i u samoj Nici, trasiraju veliki bulevari i dugaËke avenije u središtu grada. No, konkurencija luka u Genovi i Savoni naposljetku postaje prejaka, a graanstvo teπko prima ukidanje poreznih sloboda. pa se to smatra, nakon viπe stoljeÊa sklonosti talijanskim kraljevskim kuÊama, jednim od razloga rezultata plebiscita kojim je 1860. godine Nica napokon pripala Francuskoj. Naπ zrakoplov nastavlja dalje − poslije zelenog poluotoka Cap de Nice, joπ jedne prestiæne rezidencijalne Ëetvrti, s prelijepim palaËama iz lijepog doba, iz vremena mira i prosperiteta, ali i velebnim modernim vilama s terasama i privatnim koridorima do pjeπËanih plaæa. Sa πumovitog breæuljka Mont Boron pruæa se predivna panorama na zaljev koji su ribari prozvali aneoskim, uhvativπi u njemu ribu s krilima okomitim poput aneoskih. U podnoæju je brda paleolitsko nalaziπte Lazaretto, koje svjedoËi o prethistorijskoj naseljenosti ovog podruËja i jedno je od prvih nalaziπta domestikacije vatre. Terra Amata, voljena zemlja, ime je tog podruËja koje danas zauzima Nica. Liguri tu podiæu prve oppidume; Kelti se zatim mijeπaju s lokalnim stanovniπtvom tvoreÊi keltsko-ligursku kulturu. FeniËani poslije stvaraju kolonije - Antipolis (Antibes), Massalia (Marseille) i Nikaia (Nica), kojoj daju ime boæice pobjede. Sa sobom

donose kulture maslina, smokava i vinove loze, koje postaju najvaænijom djelatnoπÊu, a razvijaju i pomorstvo i trgovinu. I Rimljani se oduπevljavaju Nikaiom pa je, braneÊi isprva FeniËane od upada plemena iz zalea, jednostavno anektiraju i osnivaju rimsku Provinciju, od koje Êe poslije ostati ime Provansi. Nakon pada Rimskoga Carstva, napadaju je barbari, Saraceni, Turci. Mijenjaju joj se gospodari, od katalonskih grofova iz Barcelone, kuÊe Anjou do kraljeva Sicilije i Napulja; a bijaπe i dio sardinskog kraljevstva, sve do pripojenja Francuskoj. Nekad pograniËno ribarsko mjesto, Nica je danas simbol luksuza, hedonizma, skupih sportova, aristokratske, ali i zabave parvenijevske gospode, vrhunske gastronomije, veoma duge turistiËke tradicije. Kroz avionski prozor sada razabiremo pravilni Ëetverokut uvijek pune nicanske luke, od koje Staru Nicu dijeli tek zelena mrlja Coline du Château − breæuljka s tvravom, osvjeæavajuÊega, sjenovitog parka s visokim slapom i joπ jednom neponovljivom vistom na pravilni polumjesec azurnog zaljeva. Stara Nica, Vieux Nice, staro je, ali æivo, snaæno, pulsirajuÊe srce velikoga grada. Uskim, nepravilnim ulicama ispresijecanim trgovima, prπti æivot; trgovine, obrtniËki atelijeri, galerije, mali restorani i klubovi, πarene zastave od izvjeπenog rublja, koje visoko gore povezuju suprotne strane ulica, πtandovi na kojima se

Nicanska luka The Port of Nice

moæe kupiti voÊe ili socca, nicanska tanka pogaËa od slanutka. I, da, mnogo ljudi koji dolaze uæivati u Ëarima staroga grada, ne samo turista, nego i domaÊih ljudi i mladih i starih. Iako je polovica stanovniπtva Nice mlaa od 40 godina, i njezini stariji graani mogu se ovdje dobro zabaviti. »etvrt Malonat s trompe l’oeil ukrasima na proËeljima osobito je πarmantna i slikovita, moæda najizvorniji dio grada. Stara je Nica prenapuËena sjajnim baroknim palaËama, poput kuÊe Lascaris, i baroknim crkvama − od kojih je moæda najljepπa katedrala sv. Reparate, s impresivnom kupolom i razbaruπenim πtukaturama. Kapela Milosra (Chapelle de Miséricorde) najdosljedniji je primjer baroka, izmeu brojnih drugih crkava i palaËa. NeobiËno su atraktivni stropni vitraji i zidni ukrasi glasovite trgovine slatkiπima Auer, pa u nju treba uÊi makar kupili samo komadiÊ uπeÊerenog voÊa, prozirnih æutih, crvenih, zelenih drhtalica, dæemova, calissona − voÊnih mandulata ili Ëokoladnih pralina naËinjenih prema dvije stotine godina starim obiteljskim receptima. Ovdje Êete, izvan ljetnih mjeseci, pronaÊi i nicansku tourte aux blettes, slatki kolaË od blitve, sira, groæica i pastisa − likera od anisa i slatkoga korijena. Blitva, to na suπu otporno zeleno povrÊe kojemu ne smeta siromaπno tlo, vaæna je namirnica francuskoga juga, simboliËan kontrapunkt ribarske, radniËke Nice i obilja u kojemu su oduvijek uæivali njezini gosti. Blitva

je jednostavno uspijevala posvuda i u ovom su je kraju jeli u takvim koliËinama da su u drugim, poljoprivredno bogatijim i raznolikijim podruËjima stanovnike Nice podrugljivo prozvali chieurs des blettes, blitvoserima. Doista, navodi u svom blogu etnogastronomkinja Camille Oger, i sama Nicanka, blitvu, taj zamjenski πpinat, ovdje stavljaju u sve: sluæe, dakako, njezino zeleno liπÊe kao prilog ostalim jelima, ali pripremaju je i u kolaËima, tjestenini, kruhu, valjuπcima. I inaËe su svi izvorni nicanski specijaliteti u osnovi jednostavna i skromna jela. A kad smo veÊ kod slatkoga − svakako treba kuπati neki od sladoleda joπ jedne obiteljske kuÊe − Fenocchio − s izborom stotinjak okusa sladoleda i πerbeta, od ljubica, smokvi, ruæmarina, lavande, umbira, ruæe, meda s pinjolima, maka, majËine duπice, verbene, do πiroke lepeze uobiËajenih okusa. Glavni je trg staroga grada Cours Saleya, na kojemu se svakoga dana, osim ponedjeljka kad ga preplave brokanteri, prodaje cvijeÊe uzgojeno u brojnim staklenicima terasasto razasutim po okolnim breæuljcima, sliËno onima u okolici San Rema, joπ jedne cvjetne prijestolnice. Uz πtandove s voÊem, pretvaraju trg u eksploziju boja, mirisa i okusa, sublimiranih neπto dalje, u ulici Parolière, u svojevrsnom crescendu uliËnog æivota, meteæa prolaznika, πtandova s tkaninama i nakitom, pekarnicama koje prodaju panisse − præene πtapiÊe od kuhanoga slanutkovoga braπna. Tu se moæe pojesti i soupe au

Prizor s Engleske promenade A view from the Promenade des Anglais

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Jedna od plaæa ispod Engleske promenade One of the beaches below the Promenade des Anglais Trg Massena, zemljopisno središte Nice, sa sedam Ëovjekolikih kipova koji simboliziraju sedam kontinenata i noÊu komuniciraju svjetlom The Massena Square, the geographical centre of Nice with seven human-like statues symbolising the seven continents and communicating with light at night

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pistou, popiti Ëaπa lokalnog vina Bellet, kuπati pissaladière, neku vrsta prapizze sa slanim inÊunima na postelji od luka i ostala lokalna jela, poput ratatouillea, bouillabaissea i, dakako, nicanske salate oko Ëijega se izvornog sastava ovdje trajno i strastveno lome koplja. Na trgu St. François, s joπ jednom raskoπnom palaËom i tornjem sa satom iz 18. stoljeÊa, oko fontane s dupinima svakodnevno se prodaje svjeæa riba i zaËinsko bilje. Zbog ribe ovdje se skupljaju i galebovi, vrijedni ËistaËi trga, koji nikad ne izostaju s posla… Upravo se iz aviona na slijetanju najbolje vide dvije Nice koje je stoljeÊima odvajala rjeËica Paillon, sa starim gradom æutih i naranËastih proËelja na lijevoj obali i novim, modernijim na desnoj, koji se penje na breæuljke u zaleu sve do nedalekih obronaka Alpa, te osobito prema zapadu, gdje se spaja s urbanim aglomeracijama duæ obale u veliËanstvenome nizu: Villeneuve-Loubet, Antibes, sa svojim satelitom, futuristiËkim Sophia Antipolisom, Cannes, Hyères, s kojim je Nica dijelila naklonost kraljice Viktorije, St. Raphaël, St. Tropez, pitoreskno ribarsko mjesto divnih pjeπËanih plaæa, koje je otkrila Brigitte Bardot i, sagradivπi ondje vilu, pretvorila ga u jedno od najposjeÊenijih francuskih ljetnih odrediπta. Korito rijeke Paillon u srcu Nice, nekad nadvoeno mostovima, danas je pokriveno da bi se dobila prostrana esplanada, Promenade du Paillon, nova nicanska zelena osovina duga viπe od kilometra, s brojnim fontanama i desecima tisuÊa posaenih stabala i ukrasnih grmova. A otprilike negdje gdje je Paillon utjecala u more, poËinje najpoznatija nicanska atrakcija − Promenade des Anglais, ili kako je ovdje jednostavno zovu Prom’. Sedam dugih kilometara πirokoga, ureenog πetaliπta sa stoljetnim palmama, uz jednako dugu plaæu, velikim dijelom javnu, s plavim kupaliπnim kabinama i suvremenim sjenicama, klupa okrenutih prema moru, s pjeπaËkim i biciklistiËkim stazama. Ovdje se moæe kupati, sunËati, veslati, surfati, igrati rukomet, stolni tenis, voziti na koturaljkama, trËati, πetati. Moæete jednostavno sjediti i uæivati u modrini neba i puËine Sredozemlja, majke svih mora, odakle su na svoja otkriÊa, ususret svojim sudbinama, kretali mnogi pomorci. Ili moæete jednostavno promatrati ljude koji prolaze. Palmored i prometna cesta dijele πetaliπte od prelijepih zgrada u Ëitavoj duæini Promenade, poput palaËe de la Méditerranée, s klasicistiËkim proËeljem, ureπenim krilatim konjima i nimfama. Uza zgradu Opere, jedna od najljepπih graevina belle époque na Promenadi kultni je hotel Negresco sa svojom ruæiËastom kupolom, ali i mnoge anonimne palaËe i stare vile, njegovanih proËelja njeænih boja, poput onih sladoleda iz Fenocchija. ©to se viπe bliæimo zapadnome rubu Promenade,

hoteli i poslovne zgrade sve su viπi, moderniji, sazdani od sve viπe stakla i Ëelika. Na kraju se, na nasutome platou, nalazi aerodrom Nice-Côte d’Azur, vjerojatno jedina zraËna luka u neposrednoj blizini glavne atrakcije nekoga grada. Svoje ime promenada duguje Englezima koji su tijekom dvaju stoljeÊa na Azurnoj obali stvorili svoje paralelno, dakako, visoko druπtvo, donoseÊi ovom gradu, ali i ostalim mjestima priobalja, ugled i bogatstvo. Azurna je obala sa svojim jodiranim zrakom i suncem postala tako popularna da su engleski lijeËnici svojim aristokratskim pacijentima veÊ za obiËan kaπalj propisivali oporavak na Rivijeri. Sve je poËelo potkraj 18. stoljeÊa, a veÊ 1820. godine u Nici je boravilo viπe od stotinu britanskih obitelji. Blaga klima i obilje sunËanih sati privukli su bogate Engleze koji su ovdje primani s uvaæavanjem − gradi se anglikanska crkva, dodjeljuje im se Ëak i uprava jedne luke Ëiji je jedini razlog postojanja bio − uvoz engleske tratine, a na prijedlog upravo britanskog vikara, gradi se i šetalište. Somerset Maugham, koji Êe poslije dobiti svoju aveniju na Cap Ferratu, kroniËar je æivota engleske kolonije na Rivijeri. Stvara u svojoj vili La Mauresque ugoπÊujuÊi povijesne liËnosti poput Winstona Churchilla, vojvotkinje i vojvode od Windsora, Age Khana, kao i knjiæevnike T. S. Eliota, H. G. Wellsa, Rudyarda Kiplinga, Iana Fleminga, Noëla Cowarda, Virginiju Woolf. Poslije Drugoga svjetskog rata, kad u Ujedinjeno Kraljevstvo prestaju pristizati kolonijalne rente, engleska zajednica u Nici sve se viπe gubi u gomili novopridoπlica. No nisu Englezi jedini koji su ovdje imali svoje sunËano utoËiπte − jednako je brojna bila i ruska zajednica. Jedan od tragova pet stotina plemiÊkih ili tek bogatih ruskih obitelji koje su skloniπte od ruske hladnoÊe, magle, a poslije i revolucije naπle na Rivijeri, pravoslavna je crkva sv. Nikole, kaæu, najljepπa izvan Rusije. Engleska je, pak, kraljica Viktorija u svojim poznim godinama stizala u Nicu posebnim vlakom, u pratnji stotinjak sluæbenika, i πarolikog osiguranja, od πkotskih vojnika u kiltovima do egzotiËnih indijskih, s turbanima. Goleme su koliËine prtljage putovale u posebnom vagonu, ne raËunajuÊi kraljiËin krevet i ostali namjeπtaj koji bi stizao prije i rasporeivao se u 80 hotelskih soba na breæuljku Cimiez. Unaprijed su stizale i njezine koËije i magarac Jacquot, kojega je, ljepuπkastoga, ali neishranjenoga, otkupila od nekog seljaka u Provansi i koristila se njime za kratke izlete u okolicu Nice. Jacquot je tako s kraljicom Ëesto putovao na relaciji Engleska − Francuska, a vodila ga je i u druge europske zemlje. Jednom umirovljen, svoje posljednje dane Jacquot je proveo u Windsoru. Brojni umjetnici i slikari, privuËeni intenzitetom boja i svjetla, dolaze stvarati na Rivijeru.

Matisse, Chagall, Klein, Dufy, Picasso, Léger, nekad su se ovdje nadahnjivali, a danas su tu njihovi muzeji, Chagallov, Matisseov i Légerov u Nici, Picassov u Antibesu. Svakako valja posjetiti i Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti M.A.M.A.C, u ulici Yvesa Kleina. Tridesetih godina Rivijeru otkrivaju i Amerikanci: knjiæevnici Scott Fitzgerald sa svojom Zeldom, Ernest Hemingway, Graham Greene, ali i Francuzi, Colette, Mistral, Pagnol, Camus… Amerikanci dovode jazz u Europu pa ovdje nastupaju Louis Armstrong, Errol Garner, Count Basie. U Villeneuve-Loubetu, koji Nica samo πto nije progutala pretvorivπi ga u svoje zapadno predgrae, nalazi se Marina Baie-des-Anges. Jedan od bisera suvremene arhitekture, Ëetiri divovske rezidencijalne zgrade s tisuÊu zaposlenih, sa sadræajima koji bi zadovoljili neki manji grad, pruæa se na 16 hektara, od Ëega treÊina otpada na zelene povrπine. Gradnja je isprva osporavana zbog veliËine i zadiranja u obalno podruËje. Ali, André Minangoy, arhitekt s vizijom koji nije doËekao kraj 25-godiπnje gradnje, napravio je nemoguÊe − umjesto klasiËnoga kubusnog mastodonta, razbio je objekt na Ëetiri nejednake, valovite, relativno uske zgrade, postavljene poput valova koji nadiru na obalu, zatvorivπi njima polumjesec koji slijedi prirodne linije Zaljeva anela. Zgrade su na najviπem dijelu visoke sedamdeset metara, ali ta visina i veliËina nimalo ne iritira. Naprotiv, njihov piramidalni oblik s terasama iz kojih rastu palme i Ëempresi, markantna su veduta koju ne moæete preskoËiti, bilo da putujete autocestom ili se sa zapada avionom pribliæavate nicanskom aerodromu. S morske je strane pogled na zgrade nazvane prema mornariËkim Ëinovima: Amiral, Commodore, Baronnet i Ducal, najljepπi − Ëini se kao da iz mora izranjaju veliki bijeli valovi pjenuπavih krijesta, a iza njih, u daljini, kao u zrcalu, oblik im se ponavlja u snjeænim vrπcima Alpa. Valoviti su i futuristiËki obrisi novoga nicanskog stadiona, osvijetljenog mjehura, takoer smjeπtenoga zapadno od grada pa se doima poput pravoga gnijezda za orliÊe (aiglons) Nice, kluba prve lige francuskog nogometa. No, i osim nogometa, Nica je odavno osigurala zabavu za svoje goste, osobito kad je rijeË o zimskim mjesecima. Grad ne zna za predsezonu i posezonu, ovdje je uvijek sezona. Joπ je 1876. godine pripremljena prva Bitka cvijeÊem, isprva obiËna razmjena cvijeÊa, koja se tek poslije razvila u pravi spektakl. Ideja je bila zabaviti turiste, ali i promicati lokalne proizvoaËe cvijeÊa. Bataille aux Fleurs dio je Karnevala, najveÊega zimskog dogaanja u Nici, koji je, uz Rio de Janeiro i Veneciju, najpoznatija karnevalska priredba na svijetu, sa sedam stoljeÊa tradicije. KatoliËka je crkva joπ u srednjem vijeku

Trg St. François, zvonik sa satom St. Francis Square, bell and clock tower

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Fontane na Promenade du Paillon The fountains on the Promenade du Paillon

Karneval The carnival

Narodno kazaliĎ&#x20AC;te The National Theatre

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Cours Saleya, cvjetni trg Cours Saleya, ﬂower market

Cours Saleya, trænica Cours Saleya, marketplace

Fontane na Promenade du Paillon, noÊu The fountains on the Promenade du Paillon at night Trg Massena noÊu Massena Square at night

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Panorama Nice s Mont Borona A panorama of Nice from Mont Boron

Prizor s karnevala A carnival scene

Cours Saleya, trĂŚnica Cours Saleya, marketplace

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Nicanske vile The villas of Nice

La Tête au Carré, »etvrtasta glava (autori Sosno/Bayard), sedmerokatnica, prvi nastanjivi spomenik na svijetu La Tête au Carré, Square Head (authors Sosno/Bayard), a seven-ﬂoor building, the ﬁrst habitable monument in the world

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Trg Massena Massena Square

zaæmirila na takvu vrstu zabave prije 40 mrπavih dana korizme. I u 2015. godini, od 13. veljaËe do 1. oæujka, odræat Êe se karneval o temi Kralj glazbe. Uz dvadesetak, cvjetnim kompozicijama okiÊenih karnevalskih kola, dan i noÊ publiku Êe zabavljati viπe od tisuÊu glazbenika i plesaËa iz cijeloga svijeta, i zasipati je mimozama, gerberima, ljiljanima. Stotine florista, umjetnika, slikara i kostimografa kreirat Êe maske, lutke, kostime i pokrete, urotit Êe se za zabavu onih milijun posjetilaca koji Êe Lijepu Nicu, kraljicu cvijeÊa, kako je nazivaju u nesluæbenoj gradskoj himni − Nissa la Bella, regina de li flors, na nisardskom dijalektu, posjetiti i usred zime. Baπ kao nekad. . n a short time, the aircraft is going to turn slightly towards the coast, and you will then be able to recognise the deeply convex, serrated coves of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, a peninsula of luxurious villas. Wrapped in their gardens, surrounded by tall, manicured hedges, they reveal nothing to the passers-by. It is only from this perspective, i.e. the aerial perspective, that the looming redness of their roofs and the blueness of their ponds and pools can be seen. Some of the villas are open for tours, such as the elegant pink Ephrussi de Rothschild Villa, which was constructed in the flamboyant Belle Epoque style by Baroness Beatrice de Rothschild Charlotte. Along with the royal splendour of the villa, seven acres of theme parks with collections of plants from different parts of the world, where the eccentric baroness married dog couples, kept gazelles,

Prizori s karnevala Carnival scenes

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antelopes, monkeys and aviaries containing birds, are a real treat for visitors even today. There is also the Santo Sospiri Villa, famous for its guest Jean Cocteau, who came here for a short visit and ended up staying eleven years. Cocteau painted murals on the inside walls of the Villa. It was his horror vacui that made him cover the inside bare walls with drawings, tattoo them, as he would say, and he did so for years. While painting, he never moved the furniture, but drew around it, and sometimes on it − if the motif required it. Having finished the walls, the white ceilings seemed bare to him, so he painted them as well. The Villa is now available for sightseeing by appointment, while Cocteau’s murals can be viewed in the Fisherman’s Chapel of nor ofSt. Peter in the neighbouring Villefranche-sur-Mer, as well as in two small museums and in the wedding hall of Menton’s City Hall. We are flying over the cove in Villefranche-surMer: the commercial port responsible for Nice’s ascent into the 17th century. It is one of the deepest natural harbours on the Mediterranean and it can accommodate the largest vessels; at one point, even the Russian Navy was briefly anchored there when Russia lost its rights to the Black Sea in the Crimean War and badly needed a second naval base. The Golden Age of Nice begins with granting privileges to the harbour in Villefranche, and the Royal House of Savoy, which then governed the city, protected its access to the Mediterranean by constructing a citadel and fortress on Mont Alban. The city was growing due to maritime trade between

Provence and Liguria. The Senate is founded, Nice gets a commissary. Upset by two consecutive failed attempts at annexing Nice, the Sun King destroys the citadel and fortifications around the city belonging to the Kingdom of Sardinia. Liberated from wall shackles, the city expands and develops economically. Baroque churches are built, and towards the end of the 18th century, when the first English and Russian families arrive to spend the winter there, tourism started emerging. By the mid-19th century, tourists bring more money than growing traditional crops does. A harbour is built in Nice as well, and major boulevards and long avenues are paved in the centre of the city. However, the competition between the harbours of Genoa and Savona eventually becomes too strong and citizens have a hard time accepting the abolition of tax exemption. This is considered to be one of the reasons, after several centuries of loyalty to Italian royal houses, for the results of the plebiscite, which in 1860 finally made Nice part of France. Our aircraft continues on − after the green peninsula of Cap de Nice, another prestigious residential neighbourhood with beautiful palaces from the beautiful era, the time of peace and prosperity, but also with magnificent modern villas with terraces and private corridors leading to sandy beaches. The wooded hill of Mont Boron offers a beautiful panorama of the bay, which the fishermen named the Angel Bay after finding a fish with angel wings in/on. At the foot of the hill is the Lazaretto Palaeolithic site, which testifies to the prehistoric population of the area and is one of the first sites of the domestication of fire. Terra Amata, beloved land, is the name of that region now belonging to Nice. This is where the Ligurs build the first oppidums; Celts then blend in with the local population, creating a Celtic-Ligurian culture. Phoenicians then form colonies − Antipolis (Antibes), Massalia (Marseille) and Nikaia (Nice) which they name after the Goddess of Victory. They bring with them olive, fig, and grape cultures, which become the most important activity, and they also develop maritime affairs and trade. The Romans are also delighted with Nikaia so, after first defending the Phoenicians from intrusion of the hinterland tribes, they simply annex it and establish the Roman Province which is later called by the same name of Provence. After the fall of the Roman Empire, it is attacked by barbarians, the Saracens and the Turks. Ownership changes from the Catalan Counts of Barcelona, the Anjou House, to the Kings of Sicily and Naples; and it was also once part of the Kingdom of Sardinia, until it was annexed to France. Once a bordering fishing village, Nice is the symbol of luxury, hedonism, expensive sports, superb cuisine and entertainment of both aristocratic and parvenu gentlemen, having also a very long tradition of tourism. Through the aircraft window, we can begin to distinguish the regular quadrangle of the always crowded Nice Port separated from the Nice Old Town only by the green stain of Coline du Château − a hill with a fortress and a refreshing park full of shade, a high waterfall and another unique vista of the regular crescent shape of the Côte d’Azur. Old Nice, Vieux Nice, is the old, but strong and pulsating heart of the great city. The narrow, irregular streets intercepted by town squares are bursting with life; shops, craft studios, galleries, small restaurants and clubs, and colourful flags

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Prizori s karnevala Carnival scenes

Nicanska luka The port of Nice

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of hanging laundry that connect hight up in the air opposite sides of streets with stalls where you can buy fruit or socca, Nice’s thin-like-apancake chickpea bread. And yes, there are lots of people who come to enjoy the charms of the Old Town; it is not only the tourists, but also the young and old locals. Although half of the population of Nice is younger than 40, even its older residents can have a good time there. The Malonat District with trompe l’oeil decorations on the façades is particularly charming and picturesque, and is perhaps the most original part of the city. Old Nice is overpopulated with magnificent Baroque palaces, such as the Palais Lascaris and Baroque churches − amongst which the Cathedral of Sainte Reparate is perhaps the most beautiful, with its impressive dome and tousled stucco. The Chapel of Mercy (Chapelle de Miséricorde) is the most consistent example of the Baroque, amongst numerous other churches and palaces. The stained glass ceiling and wall decorations of the famous sweet shop Auer are particularly attractive so you should go in even to only buy a piece of candied fruit of translucent yellow, red and green jelly or jams, calissons − fruit almond nougat or chocolate pralines prepared by using two-hundred-year-old family recipes. Here you can, outside the summer months, also find the Nice tourte aux blettes, a sweet cake made of spinach, cheese, raisins and pastis − a liqueur made of aniseed and liquorice. Chard, that drought-resistant green vegetable which toleratespoor soil, is an important food in the French South, a symbolic counterpoint of the fishing, working-class Nice and of the abundance that its guests have always enjoyed. Chard has simply grown well everywhere in such parts and they have eaten it in such large quantities that in other, more agriculturally rich and diverse regions, residents of Nice were mockingly called chieurs des blettes, chard-shitters. Indeed, as ethno-gastronomist Camille Oger, herself a Nicoise, states on her blog, chard, a substitute for spinach, is put into everything here; they naturally serve its green leaves as a side dish, but also prepare it in cakes, pasta, and bread dumplings. All the original Nice specialities are basic meals − simple and modest. And speaking of sweets, be sure to try some ice cream from another family house, Fenocchio, with a selection of flavours of ice cream and sherbet ranging in the hundreds − from violets, fig, rosemary, lavender, ginger, rose, honey with pine nuts, poppy seeds, thyme, verbena, all the way to a wide variety of common flavours. The Old Town’s main square is the Cours Saleya where every day flowers are sold, except on Mondays when it is flooded by antiquaries. These flowers are grown in numer-

ous greenhouses scattered over the surrounding hills in a terraced way and they are similar to those in the San Remo region, another floral capital. Along with the fruit stalls, they turn the market into an explosion of colours, scents and flavours, sublimated a bit farther down on Parolière Street in a kind of crescendo of street life, chaos of passers-by, fabric and jewellery stalls, and bakeries selling Panisse − fried sticks made of boiled chickpea flour. Here, you can also eat soupe au pistou, drink a glass of the local Bellet wine, taste pissaladièr, a sort of pre-pizza with anchovies on a bed of onions, as well as other local dishes, such as ratatouille, bouillabaisse and, of course, salade niçoise, which continues provoke passionate discussions over its original ingredients. At the Saint François Place, containing another magnificent palace and clock tower from the 18th century, fresh fish and herbs are sold every day around the dolphin fountain. The fish attracts gulls here, the hard-working market cleaners that are never absent from work... Just now, as the aircraft is landing, you can best see the two Nices that had been separated for two centuries by the Paillon River - the old city of yellow and orange façades on the left bank and the new, modern one on the right, ascending the hills in the background all the way to the nearby slopes of the Alps, and especially towards the west, where it connects with the urban agglomerations along the coast in a glorious series: Villeneuve-Loubet, Antibes, with its satellite, the futuristic Sophia Antipolis, Cannes, and Hyères, with which Nice shared the favour of Queen Victoria, St. Raphael, and St. Tropez, a picturesque fishing village of beautiful sandy beaches, discovered by Brigitte Bardot. After constructing a villa there, she turned it into one of the most popular French summer resorts. The riverbed of the Paillon River, located at the very heart of Nice and which was once overcome by bridges, is today covered to provide a spacious esplanade, the Promenade du Paillon, a new green passageway more than a kilometre long, with numerous fountains, and tens of thousands of planted trees and ornamental shrubs. And Nice’s most famous attraction, the Promenade des Anglais, or simply Prom, as they call it locally, starts near the location where the Paillon used to flow into the sea. There are seven long kilometres of wide, landscaped walkways lined with centuries-old palm trees, as well as an equally long beach, mostly public, with blue bathing cabins and modern booths and benches facing the sea, with hiking and biking trails. Here, you can go swimming, sunbathing, paddling, surfing, roller-skating, jogging and walking or play handball, and table tennis. You can simply

sit and enjoy the blueness of the sky and the open sea of the Mediterranean, the mother of all seas, from where many sailors started their journeys towards their personal discoveries, and towards fulfilling their destinies. Or you can just watch people passing by. A palm tree row and a busy road separate the promenade from beautiful buildings along the Promenade, such as the Palais de la Méditerranée, with a classic façade adorned with winged horses and nymphs. Next to the Opera House, one of the most beautiful Belle Époque buildings on the Promenade is the iconic Hotel Negresco with its pink dome and many anonymous palaces and old villas, and sleek façades in pastel colours like the ice cream from Fenocchio. The closer we get to the the western edge of the Promenade, the higher and more modern the hotels and office buildings become, which are made of more glass and steel. At the very end, on the covered plateau, is the Nice-Côte d’Azur Airport, probably the only airport in the immediate vicinity of a city’s main attraction. The Promenade owes its name to the English, who during two centuries on the Côte d’Azur created their parallel high society, bringing prestige and wealth to the City, as well as to other coastal towns. The Côte d’Azur, with its iodised air and sun became so popular that English doctors would prescribe rehabilitation on the Riviera for their aristocratic patients even for an ordinary cough. It all began in the late 18th century, and by 1820, more than a hundred British families resided in Nice. The mild climate and abundance of sunshine attracted wealthy English people who were welcomed here with respect − an Anglican church was built, and they were even allowed to govern a port whose sole purpose was importing English lawn grass. At the suggestion of the British vicar, a promenade was also built. Somerset Maugham, who would later get an avenue with his name on the Cap Ferrat, was a chronicler of the life of the English colony on the Riviera. He created in his La Mauresque Villa while hosting historical figures such as Winston Churchill, the Duchess and Duke of Windsor, Aga Khan, as well as writers, such as T. S. Eliot, H. G. Wells, Rudyard Kipling, Ian Fleming, Noel Coward, and Virginia Woolf. After World War II, when colonial annuity ceased to arrive in the United Kingdom, the English community in Nice was increasingly losing itself in the crowd of newcomers. But it was not only the English who had their sunny haven here - the Russian community was just as abundant. According to one trace, some five hundred nobles or just wealthy Russian families, who sought shelter from the Russian cold, fog, and later the Revolution, found themselves on the Riviera, the Orthodox

Zaljev anela

Cathedral of St. Nicholas, which is said to be the most beautiful outside of Russia... Also, in her later years, Queen Victoria would arrive in Nice by special train, accompanied by hundreds of ofﬁcials and security personnel ranging from Scottish soldiers in kilts to exotic Indian soldiers wearing turbans. Enormous amounts of luggage were transported in a special train car, excluding the Queen’s bed and other furniture that would arrive earlier and be deployed in 80 hotel rooms on the Cimiez Hill. Her carriages and her donkey Jacquot, who was cute but malnourished when she purchased him from a farmer in Provence and used it for short trips to the countryside of Nice, arrived in advance. Jacquot also travelled with the Queen on the England − France connector, as well as to other European countries. Once retired, Jacquot spent his last days in Windsor. Many artists and painters, attracted by the intensity of colour and light, come to paint on the Riviera. Matisse, Chagall, Klein, Dufy, Picasso, Léger, all used to ﬁnd inspiration here and today, their museums are here; Chagall’s, Matisse’s and Léger’s are in Nice, and Picasso’s is at Antibes. It is certainly worth visiting the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MAMAC) on Yves Klein Street. In the thirties, the Riviera was discovered by Americans as well: writers Scott Fitzgerald and his Zelda, Ernest Hemingway, and Graham Greene, but

Bay of Angels

Prizori s karnevala Carnival scenes

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also by the French − Colette, Mistral, Pagnol, Camus... Americans brought jazz to Europe so Louis Armstrong, Errol Garner, and Count Basie performed there. In Villeneuve-Loubet, Nice, which is about to be taken over by Nice and turned into its western suburb, is the Marina Baie-des-Anges. One of the jewels of modern architecture, the four gigantic residential buildings with a thousand employees and facilities which could satisfy the needs of a small town, extends up to 16 hectares, of which a third is covered in greenery. There was initially a dispute over the construction due to its size and intrusion into the coastal area. However, André Minangoy, an architect with a vision, who did not live to see the end of the 25-yearold construction, achieved the impossible − instead of a classic cubic mastodon, he broke the building into four uneven, undulating, relatively narrow buildings, erected like waves surging ashore, then closed them into a crescent shape following the natural lines of the Bay of Angels. The buildings at their highest point are seventy feet high, but the height and size are in no way bothersome. On the contrary, their pyramidal shape with terraces, out of which palm and cypress trees grow are striking panoramas that you cannot skip, whether you are travelling by highway or approaching the Nice airport from the west by plane. From the seaward side, the view of the buildings, named after naval ranked personnel, Amiral, Commodore, Baronnet and Ducal, is most stunning − as if great white waves with sparkling crests are emerging from the sea, and behind them, in the distance, as in a mirror reflection, their shape is repeated in the snowy tips of the Alps. The futuristic contours of Nice’s new stadium, an illuminated bubble, also located to the west of the city, are also wavy, so it seems like a real nest for Nice’s eaglets (aiglons), a first division club of French football. However, aside from football, Nice has provided entertainment for its guests, especially in the winter months, for a while now. The city is unfamiliar with off-season; here, it is always the season. The first Battle of Flowers was organised back in 1876, which was at first an ordinary exchange of flowers which later developed into a real spectacle. The idea was to entertain tourists, but also to promote local flower producers. Bataille aux Fleurs is part of the Carnival, the largest winter event in Nice, which, along with Rio de Janeiro and Venice, is the biggest carnival event in the world, with seven centuries of tradition in the making. Even in the Middle Ages, the Catholic Church ignored this sort of entertainment before the 40 lean days of Lent. And in 2015, from the 13th February to the 1st March, there will be a carnival on the King of Music theme. With twenty carnival cars decorated in floral compositions, the audience will be entertained day and night by more than a thousand musicians and dancers from all over the world, and showered with mimosas, gerbera daisies and lilies. Hundreds of florists, artists, painters and costume designers will be creating masks, puppets, costumes and choreography; they will conspire to entertain the million visitors who will be visiting during the winter months beautiful Nice, the queen of flowers, as it is called in the city’s unofficial anthem − Nissa la Bella, regina de li flors in the Nice dialect. Just like they did long ago. ■ 130

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tel: +385 20 773 333, fax: +385 20 773 322 e-mail: info@airport-dubrovnik.hr, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr

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Ovosezonska kolekcija modnog dvojca Boudoir ostavila je posjetitelje bez daha This seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection of the Boudoir fashion duo leaving visitors breathless

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MODA FASHION

Tekst i fotograﬁje/Text and Photos Press Cro à Porter

Rijetko, ako ikada, dogaa se da iz aviona iskoraËaju manekenke ravno prema obliænjoj modnoj pisti, predstavljajuÊi aktualne modne trendove. Upravo se to dogodilo u hangaru Croatia Airlinesa, i ostavilo posjetitelje tog projekta bez daha. Rarely, if ever, does it happen that models step out of an aircraft straight toward a nearby runway, showing off the latest fashion trends. This is exactly what happened in a Croatia Airlines hangar, leaving the visitors of the project breathless.

uradnja Croatia Airlinesa i Schwarzkopf Cro à Portera u netom zavrπenoj sezoni pokazala se kao pun pogodak u svim aspektima priËe. Dogaaj je to za pamÊenje, kako ga opisuju mnogi mediji, nedostiæna modna priËa o kojoj Êe se zacijelo joπ dugo govoriti. Projekt je visoko podigao ljestvicu modne produkcije - ne samo za podruËje Hrvatske, nego i u svjetskim razmjerima. Hangar Croatia Airlinesa u samo je nekoliko dana pretvoren u svojevrsni aerodrom, sa svim elementima potrebnim da doËaraju glamurozno putovanje u nepoznato. S divovskog ekrana povrπine viπe nego 200 Ëetvornih metara, posjetitelji su bili informirani o redu letenja, stjuardese su πetale meu posjetiteljima i uz glasan pljesak odobravanja pozdravljale ih svakog dana s modne piste, a modne su kolekcije, predstavljene na 35-metarskoj pisti, oduπevljavale zaljubljenike u dizajn. »ak je i predsjednik Republike Hrvatske Ivo JosipoviÊ, kao pokrovitelj projekta, posjetio dogaanje te se opustio u druæenju s posjetiteljima i organizatorom. Pozitivna energija i izvrstan medijski odjek, profesionalna suradnja Croatia Airlinesa i tima Schwarzkopf Cro à Porter, sjajan su primjer kojim se pokazala svjetska razina izvedbe domaÊeg projekta i njegova meunarodna konkurentnost. .

he cooperation between Croatia Airlines and Schwarzkopf Cro à Porter in the recent season proved to be a big hit in all aspects of the story! It was described by the media as an event to remember, a fashion story beyond reach that will surely be talked about for a long time. The project has raised the bar high for fashion producers, not only in Croatia, but on a global scale. The Croatia Airlines hangar turned into a makeshift airport in just a few days, with all the elements necessary for showing off a glamorous journey into the unknown. A giant screen, measuring more than 200 square meters, informed visitors of their ﬂight schedules. Flight attendants walking among the visitors were greeted daily from the fashion runway by loud applause, while fashion collections shown on the 35-meter runway delighted design lovers. The event was organised under the auspices of the Croatian President Ivo JosipoviÊ who visited the event and relaxed while socializing with the organizer and other visitors. The event’s positive energy, excellent media coverage, and professional cooperation of Croatia Airlines and the Schwarzkopf Cro à Porter team are great examples that demonstrate the world-class performance of local project teams and their ability to compete internationally. ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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Twins by BegoviÊ&©timac − modni dvojac koji iz sezone u sezonu osvaja sve više modnih poklonika Twins by BegoviÊ&©timac − a fashion duo which attracts more and more fashionists one season after another

Ovosezonska kolekcija modnog dvojca Boudoir ostavila je posjetitelje bez daha This season’s collection of the Boudoir fashion duo leaving visitors breathless

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Modna uniformiranost na naĂ&#x2039;in branda Lokomotiva Fashion uniformity in a fashion of the Lokomotiva brand

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Jerant & LovrenËiÊ prvi su se put upustile u kreiranje muπke mode i dobile sve pozitivne kritike muπkoga i æenskog dijela publike Jerant & LovrenËiÊ have engaged in designing men’s fashion for the ﬁrst time, receiving only positive critique from both men and women in the audience

Glamurozna klasika Neba namijenjena je osobitim prilikama i svaku æenu pretvara u modnu ikonu Nebo’s glamorous classic pieces, intended for special occasions, turn every woman into a fashion icon

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Mlada dizajnerica Tatjana Pantoš stvara primjereno za djevojke svoje dobi, seksi, smjelo i u skladu sa svjetskim trendovima Tatjana Pantoš, a young designer, creates designs suitable for girls of her age − sexy, daring and in line with world trends

Iz radionice Siscije u suradnji s kreativnim timom Cro à Portera predstavljene su sugestije uniformi za kabinsko osoblje Ideas for cabin crew uniforms presented by Siscia’s fashion studio in collaboration with Cro à Porter’s creative team

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Dnevna kombinacija Neba u sportsko-elegantnom stilu za dominantne i samosvjesne æene Nebo’s daytime combination in a sporty-elegant style for dominant and self-conﬁdent women

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Retro romantika zagasitih kolorita za one sklone sanjarenju, Yuniku Retro-romantic in tan hues for those inclined to daydreaming designed by Yuniku

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Minikolekcija poznatoga domaÊeg couture dizajnera Borisa Pavlina u monokromatskim tonovima djeluje minimalistiËki i elegantno Minimalistic and elegant minicollection of the famous local couture designer Boris Pavlin in monochromatic tones

Sonja Lamut − nova miljenica modnih znalaca Sonja Lamut − a new fashionists’ favourite

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Matija Vuica, nadahnuta slikarstvom Tamare de Lempicke i ĂŚenama u zrakoplovstvu, zatvorila je ovosezonski projekt sa zavidnom dozom elegancije i stila Inspired by the art of Tamara de Lempicka and women in aviation, Matija Vuica closed this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s project with an enviable dose of elegance and style

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Zagreb’s story Zagrebaÿka priÿa Zagreb, glavni grad Republike Hrvatske, jedan je od najstarijih europskih gradova ali i jedna od najmlaĄih europskih metropola. Iako kulturom i zemljopisnim položajem srednjoeuropski, arhitekturom barokni, Zagreb u mnogoĀemu živi mediteranskim naĀinom života. I baš zbog tog spoja on je - priznaju to njegovi gosti - grad speciÀĀnoga šarma i gostoljubivih, srdaĀnih ljudi. Mnogi kažu, bez konkurencije! Putovanje Zagrebom ovime nije završilo. Možda þete ga najbolje upoznati u šetnji gradom, uz cappuccino u nekoj od mnogobrojnih gradskih kavana. Uz bogatu ponudu kazališnih predstava, galerija i izložbi, Zagreb je i u ovoj sezoni domaþin mnogim svjetski poznatim imenima. Dug popis dogaĄanja koja þe se u Zagrebu održavati sljedeþih mjeseci, dokazuju da grad živi doista dinamiĀno. MeĄutim, najveþa vrijednost ovoga grada za mnoge je ipak njegova atmosfera i ljudi zbog kojih nikad niste sami. Zagreb ima priĀu i srce, veliko srce.

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Zagreb, the capital of the Republic of Croatia, is one of the oldest European cities and is yet one of Europe’s youngest metropolises. Despite being a Central European city in geography, culture and baroque architecture, in many ways, Zagreb has a Mediterranean way of life.Thanks to its many inÁuences, the city has a special charm and hospitable feel generated by its open-hearted people. Many say that nothing compares to this city! The journey through Zagreb is a never ending story. You may best learn about it by walking down the city streets and enjoying a cappuccino in one of its many city cafes. It is a well-known center of culture where you can Ànd one interesting exhibition after another; there is a host of theatrical and musical performances of all styles and expressions. Many world famous names will appear on Zagreb’s stages in the upcoming season and perform for the citizens of Zagreb and their guests. Nevertheless, the biggest value of this city is its atmosphere and the people who never allow you to feel alone. Zagreb has a story to tell and it has a heart, a big heart.

Have you been taken back to the past in a time machine or can you actually see the characters from stories told long time ago standing right next to you? Everything is here: a nostalgic song, a bunch of ¾owers and the times we brought back to the streets of Zagreb because of you… www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

This international street festival turns Zagreb into an all-out party place. Be sure to join in on the fun! www.cestisdbest.com

Croatia’s largest open-air music event, placed on the list of 50 best festivals in the world. Check it out! www.inmusicfestival.com

Fill your hearts with the spirit of Advent as the city streets, squares and parks are adorned with Christmassy delights. Treat yourself with Advent in Zagreb! www.adventzagreb.com

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Moglo bi se reÊi da je vizualni identitet Croatia Airlinesa obiljeæio gospodarsku sliku Hrvatske tijekom proteklih Ëetvrt stoljeÊa, a bitno je prisutan u njezinom ukupnom kulturnom identitetu It may be said that the visual identity of Croatia Airlines has marked the economic image of Croatia over the past quarter of a century and that it features prominently in Croatia’s overall cultural identity

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d 26. rujna do 5. listopada 2014. u zagrebaËkome Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt odræana je izloæba 25 godina dizajna i fotograﬁje u Croatia Airlinesu, na kojoj je predstavljen razvoj korporacijskoga vizualnog identiteta naπe tvrtke. Prije 25 godina, dakle usporedno s postankom kompanije, poËelo je i brendiranje hrvatskoga nacionalnog prijevoznika, a razvoj korporacijskoga vizualnog identiteta jedno je od najvaænijih obiljeæja tog procesa. Vizualni identitet Croatia Airlinesa obiljeæio je gospodarsku sliku Hrvatske u proteklih 25 godina, a bitno je prisutan u njezinom ukupnom kulturnom identitetu. Nesumnjivo, vizualni identitet tvrtke, za sva ostvarenja na poslovnim podruËjima, pridonio je prepoznatljivosti Croatia Airlinesa kao hrvatskog branda.

Piše/By Davor JanušiÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

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Nastup mladoga hrvatskoga glazbenika Filipa MerËepa, koji je na marimbi izveo djela hrvatskih i inozemnih autora, oduπevio je posjetitelje na otvorenju izloæbe The young Croatian musician Filip MerËep performing pieces by Croatian and foreign composers on the marimba, which delighted visitors during the exhibition opening

− Svi u kompaniji osobito smo ponosni na na to što smo, kao nacionalni avioprijevoznik, pruæili snaæan doprinos predstavljanju Republike Hrvatske u svijetu, osobito u prvim godinama poslije osamostaljenja naπe dræave − rekao je na otvorenju izloæbe Kreπimir KuËko, predsjednik Uprave Croatia Airlinesa. U sklopu izloæbe 25 godina dizajna i fotografi je u Croatia Airlinesu predstavljena je i 20. obljetnica kontinuiranog izlaæenja putnog Ëasopisa Croatia. Naime, u proljeÊe 1994. godine, samo tri godine nakon prvoga putniËkog leta, poËeo je izlaziti kompanijski inflight magazin, koji takoer ima vaænu ulogu u komuniciranju korporativnih vrijednosti, ali i nacionalnoga identiteta. Svojim vizualnim identitetom, kao sastavnim dijelom vizualnog identiteta kompanije, putni Ëasopis Croatia uspjeπno prenosi nacionalna obiljeæja i tako pridonosi prepoznatljivosti Republike Hrvatske u svijetu. U protekla je dva desetljeÊa inflight magazin maπtovitim i zanimljivim temama, praÊenima kvalitetnim fotografijama, promicao hrvatsku kulturu, baπtinu i prirodne ljepote Hrvatske, a istodobno informirao putnike i πiru javnost o odabranim struËnim temama iz zrakoplovstva i kompanije. . 148

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U sklopu izloæbe obiljeæena je dvadeseta obljetnica kontinuiranog izlaæenja inﬂight magazina Croatia. Gotovo da nema bitnijeg elementa kulturne povijesti ili aktualne kulture u Hrvatskoj a da nisu predstavljeni na stranicama ovog Ëasopisa As part of the exhibition, the Croatia inﬂight magazine celebrated 20 years of its continuous publication. There is no important element of Croatian culture, history or present day life which has not featured on the pages of the magazine

IzloĂŚba 25 godina dizajna i fotograďŹ je u Croatia Airlinesu privukla je veliku pozornost, a u dva tjedna pogledalo ju je oko 5000 posjetitelja The 25 Years of Design and Photography at Croatia Airlines exhibition lasted for two weeks and attracted about 5000 visitors

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SveËano otvorenje u zagrebaËkome Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt The opening ceremony of the exhibition at Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts

Slijeva nadesno: urednik fotograﬁje putnog Ëasopisa Damir FabijaniÊ, pomoÊnica ministrice kulture RH Vesna JuriÊ BulatoviÊ, glavna urednica Croatije Ksenija Ælof, kompanijska dizajnerica Ivana IvankoviÊ i predsjednik Uprave Croatia Airlinesa Kreπimir KuËko From left to right: inﬂight magazine editor of photography Damir FabijaniÊ, Croatian Assistant Minister of Culture Vesna JuriÊ BulatoviÊ, Croatia’s editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof, company designer Ivana IvankoviÊ and Croatia Airlines’ President & CEO Kreπimir KuËko

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etween September 26th and October 5th, the 25 Years of Design and Photography at Croatia Airlines exhibition was held at Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts and it showcased the development of our company’s visual identity. The branding process for the Croatian national airline started as soon as the company was set up 25 years ago. Developing the corporate identity was one of the biggest challenges in this process. The Croatia Airlines visual identity has been an important component in the overall image of Croatia over the last 25 years, giving a strong presence to its cultural identity. There is no doubt that the company’s visual identity combined with all of its business achievements has contributed to the recognisability of Croatia Airlines as a Croatian brand.

− All of us at the company are particularly proud of the fact that as a national carrier, Croatia Airlines has significantly icontributed to the perception of the Republic of Croatia worldwide, especially during the fi rst few years after gaining independence − said Kreπimir KuËko, the company’s CEO, at the exhibition opening. The 25 years of design and photography at Croatia Airlines exhibition also marked the 20 th anniversary of the continuous publication of Croatia in-flight magazine. In fact,, the first issue of the magazine was published in the spring of 1994, only three years after the first commercial flight took off. Ever since, the magazine has played an important role in communicating both the corporate values as well as the messages of Croatia’s national identity. With its visual identity, as an integral

Kvadrat kao semantiËki okvir uveden je i na tiskane kalendare tvrtke, Ëime je upotpunjena opÊa slika korporacijskoga vizualnog identiteta. To je bila i danas jest osobitost Croatia Airlinesa, razraivana u kompanijskom odjelu za dizajn A square as a semantic frame has also been used on corporate calendars, thus completing the overall corporate visual identity. This quintessential feature of Croatia Airlines has been developed by the company’s Design Department

Projekt razvoja korporacijskog identiteta tvrtke predstavljen je na mnogim hrvatskim i meunarodnim izloæbama i manifestacijama dizajna te u meunarodnim publikacijama, a dobio je viπe strukovnih priznanja i nagrada The corporate identity development project has been showcased at many Croatian and international design exhibitions; it has been featured in international publications and received several industry recognitions and awards CROATIA AIRLINES

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U sklopu izloæbe organizirana je i radionica za djecu pod nazivom Oboji avion. Odræali su je dizajnerica Croatia Airlinesa Ivana Ivankovic i dizajner Nenad VujoπeviÊ, uz podrπku kolegica Sanje MandiÊ, Martine DragojeviÊ Trcol i Kristijane MaliÊ Paint the Aircraft, a workshop for children, was organised as part of the exhibition. It was held by Croatia Airlines designers Ivana IvankoviÊ and Nenad VujoπeviÊ, with support of their colleagues Sanja MandiÊ, Martina DragojeviÊ Trcol and Kristijana MaliÊ

Croatia Airlines svojim je korporacijskim vizualnim identitetom snaæno pridonio predstavljanju Hrvatske u svijetu, osobito u prvim godinama poslije osamostaljenja dræave With its corporate identity, Croatia Airlines has made a strong impact on the global presentation of Croatia, especially during the years after Croatia gained independence

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element of the visual identity of Croatia Airlines, Croatia in-ﬂight magazine manages to successfully showcase the national identity of the Republic of Croatia and thus, contributes to its recognisability worldwide. During the past two decades, the magazine has offered its readers imaginative and interesting articles and high quality photography. It has, therefore, promoted Croatia’s historical and cultural heritage as well as the diversity of its landscape, while at the same time informing passengers and the public at large of the issues related to the airline industry as a whole and of the life of the company in particular. ■

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Piše/By Igor RajkoviÊ Fotograﬁje/photos Arhiva/archive ATP PBZ Indors 154

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Indoors, kako ga mnogi skraÊeno zovu, a svi nepogreπivo znaju na πto se to odnosi, teniski je turnir iz kalendara Udruæenja teniskih profesionalaca (ATP). Ubraja se meu natjecanja koja, zajedno s Ëetiri Grand Slam turnira, okupljaju sve ono najvrednije πto postoji u profesionalnom tenisu. Od toga boljega jednostavno nema! Od 2. do 8. veljaËe 2015. odræat Êe se jubilarno deseto izdanje. While everyone undoubtedly knows what it stands for, the Indoors, called by many for short, is a tennis tournament in the calendar of the Association of Tennis Professionals (ATP), and belongs to competitions which, along with the four Grand Slam tournaments, bring together everything that is valued in professional tennis. There is simply nothing better! The tenth anniversary edition will take place from 2nd and 8th of February, 2015. rvatska je, s tim Êe se vjerojatno mnogi sloæiti, zemlja poznata po vrhunskim sportaπima Ëija su imena poznata πirom svijeta. Nogometaπi, koπarkaπi, tenisaËi… svakako su perjanice meu njima i jedva da postoji kutak planeta gdje spomen njihova imena neÊe izmamiti osmijeh. Tko, primjerice, ne zna za Gorana IvaniπeviÊa, karizmatiËnog tenisaËa koji je 2001. osvojio Wimbledon? Koliko ih je za Hrvatsku Ëulo nakon πto je Marin »iliÊ u poËetku rujna ove godine osvojio US Open u New Yorku?

Sportaπi su stoga vaæni hrvatski ambasadori, baπ kao πto su vaæni promotori i velika sportska natjecanja koja se prireuju u Hrvatskoj. Jedno od njih, koje Êe u veljaËi 2015. godine proslaviti znaËajan jubilej, toËnije desetogodiπnjicu neprekidna uspjeπna odræavanja, jest PBZ Zagreb Indoors, teniski turnir iz kalendara Udruæenja teniskih profesionalaca (ATP), na kojem iz godine u godinu nastupaju mnogi izvrsni igraËi. Indoors, kako ga mnogi skraÊeno zovu, a svi nepogreπivo znaju na πto se to odnosi, ubraja se meu natjecanja koja, zajedno s Ëetiri Grand

Slam turnira, okupljaju sve ono najvrednije πto postoji u profesionalnom tenisu. Od toga boljega jednostavno nema: to su turniri na kojima nastupaju sve najveÊe zvijezde ovog sporta te igraËi koji upravo to æele postati. Tu se skupljaju famozni bodovi za ATP listu, poredak koji se objavljuje ponedjeljkom i koji crno na bijelom pokazuje tko je gdje i πto znaËi u univerzumu muπkog tenisa. Prvo izdanje PBZ Zagreb Indoorsa prireeno je 2006. godine, moæe se reÊi, u rekordnom roku. Kada je direktor turnira Branimir Horvat CROATIA AIRLINES

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poËeo organizirati premijerno natjecanje, imao je na raspolaganju samo tri mjeseca, no posao je obavljen, sasvim sigurno, i zbog dugogodiπnjeg iskustva Top Spina u organizaciji teniskih turnira. Kao bivπi tenisaË znao je πto je sve potrebno, a odliËan potez bio je i angaæman velikih teniskih imena, Gorana IvaniπeviÊa i Ivana LjubiËiÊa, koji su nesebiËno pomogli znanjem i iskustvom. IvaniπeviÊ je od poËetka pomoÊnik direktora i zato vaæan dio turnira, a Ivan LjubiËiÊ − koji je bio pobjednik prvog izdanja 2006. − od zavrπetka karijere sudjeluje u organizaciji kao ambasador turnira. Mnogo je svjetskih zvijezda − bivπih, tadaπnjih i buduÊih - igralo u zagrebaËkom Domu sportova. »ak i oni koji tek povrπno prate sport ne mogu ostati ravnoduπni na popis tenisaËa koji su skupljali bodove na PBZ Zagreb Indoorsu. Neki su od njih na turnir doπli sa statusom igraËa pred kojima je blistava buduÊnost, neki od njih bili su veÊ etablirane zvijezde, a neki su bili pred zavrπetkom karijere, no svejedno sposobni da mladim lavovima poremete planove i pokaæu da joπ mogu odigrati vrhunski tenis. Zapravo, bolje od iËega drugoga takvu tvrdnju mogu potkrijepiti imena. Primjerice, kad je turnir 2006. godine doæivio svoje prvo izdanje, u glavnom ædrijebu turnira bili su, meu ostalima, Marin »iliÊ, Ivan LjubiËiÊ, Mario AnËiÊ, Ivo KarloviÊ, Novak –okoviÊ, Andy Murray, Stanislas Wawrinka, David Ferrer, Tim Henman, Robin Söderling, Richard Gasquet… Meu njima su, dakle, osvajaËi Grand Slam turnira, tenisaËi koji su bili pri vrhu i na samom vrhu rang-liste, ukratko − najveÊe zvijezde ovog sporta. Osim spomenutih, u Zagrebu su igrali Tommy Haas, Grigor Dimitrov, Jürgen Melzer, Marcos Baghdatis, Mihail Juænjij, Gilles Simon, Janko TipsareviÊ, Arnaud Clement… sve odreda tenisaËi koji se mogu pohvaliti da su u nekom trenutku svoje karijere bili rangirani meu deset najboljih na svijetu. Osim sportskoga, turnir ima i humanitarno obilježje. PBZ Zagreb Indoors bio je prvi u regiji koji je ATP odabrao za ambasadora u akciji ATP Aces for Charity, doniravπi 10.000 eura za DjeËji dom u Nazorovoj ulici. Iz godine u godinu turnir je donosio neπto novo, neπto svoje, ali i bio odskoËna daska za mlade teniske nade. Pogotovo kad su posrijedi hrvatski igraËi, kojih nikad nije nedostajalo u turnirskom ædrijebu i moæe se reÊi da je zarana postala tradicija da se na turniru okupi doslovno sve ono najbolje πto postoji u hrvatskome muπkom tenisu. Upravo ovdje je, primjerice, Marin »iliÊ postigao prvu pobjedu u karijeri na ATP turnirima; upravo je ovdje Ivan Dodig osvojio prvi naslov na ATP turnirima; upravo je ovdje Borna ΔoriÊ, vjerojatno buduÊa zvijezda svjetskog tenisa, kao 16-godiπnjak prvi put pokuπao proÊi kvaliﬁkacije na turnirima ovog ranga. I tako dalje… Tijekom godine, πirom svijeta, odræi se 61 turnir pod jurisdikcijom ATP-a. Kad bi Udruæenje teniskih profesionalaca htjelo udovoljiti æeljama svih koji bi rado organizirali neko od ovakvih natjecanja, ta bi brojka sasvim sigurno vrlo brzo bila nadmaπena, no broj turnira dræi se na ovoj razini radi oËuvanja kvalitete. Stoga je vrlo teπko uÊi u ovo odabrano druπtvo, ali je valjda jednako teπko i ostati, jer kriteriji koje pred organizatore postavlja ATP veoma su zahtjevni. Ne sluËajno: to su natjecanja koja predstavljaju ono najbolje πto postoji u tenisu, pa se na to pazi na svakom koraku. Jasno, igraËi su uvijek najvaæniji, no bitni su i svi ostali segmenti. Ista stvar, dakako, vrijedi i za PBZ Zagreb Indoors. Pri organizaciji niπta nije prepuπteno sluËaju, sve je isplanirano u detalje i 156

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nije Ëudno što zavrπna ocjena koju predstavnici ATP-a poπalju poslije zavrπetka turnira bude obiljeæena superlativima. Hrvatska je, kaæu, svjetski prvak ili blizu tome u vrhunskoj organizaciji sportskih natjecanja, valjda i zbog tradicionalne gostoljubivosti i æelje da se pred svijetom svi iskaæu u najboljemu moguÊem svjetlu. Stoga ni PBZ Zagreb Indoors nije imun na to… Tijekom sedam dana turnira hrvatski ljubitelji tenisa dou na svoje u Domu sportova. Mogu navijati za vodeÊe hrvatske igraËe, imaju priliku uæivo vidjeti joπ neke od zvijezda ovog sporta, a najsretniji se vrate kuÊi s vrijednim darovima sponzora, poput odlaska na US Open u New Yorku, koji dodjeljuje PBZ Card. No slika iz Zagreba ne ostaje samo u Hrvatskoj − procvatom kabelskih televizija turnir se u izravnim prijenosima i snimkama sada moæe doslovno pratiti πirom svijeta, πto je razlog viπe da se PBZ Zagreb Indoors moæe zvati globalnom priredbom. Uostalom, tako je i zamiπljen, kao idealna kombinacija hrvatskog πtiha i tenisa na vrhunskoj razini. Sada ga Ëeka proslava lijepog jubileja, prvih deset godina odræavanja − od 2. do 8. veljaËe 2015. u Domu sportova opet Êe biti hrvatska i svjetska teniska elita! . roatia is, as many will probably agree, a country known for its top athletes whose names are known worldwide. The soccer players, basketball players, and tennis players are certainly leaders among them, and there is hardly a place on the planet where mentioning their names will not elicit a smile. For example, who does not know of Goran IvaniπeviÊ, the charismatic tennis player who won Wimbledon in 2001? How many people haven’t heard of Croatia since Marin »iliÊ won the U.S. Open in New York in early September of this year? Athletes are, therefore, important Croatian ambassadors, who are just as important as the promoters and as the major sports events themselves, which are organized in Croatia. One of these events will be celebrating a signiﬁcant jubilee in February of 2015, namely the tenth anniversary of the PBZ Zagreb Indoors tennis tournament, a continuously successful organization from the Association of Tennis Professionals (ATP) calendar, which brings together many excellent players year after year. While everyone undoubtedly knows what it stands for, the Indoors, called by many for short, is a tennis tournament in the calendar of the Association of Tennis Professionals (ATP), and belongs to competitions which, along with the four Grand Slam tournaments, bring together everything that is valued in professional tennis. There is simply nothing better! It is in these tournaments that the biggest stars of the sport

as well as the players aspiring to become them take part in. This is where the extraordinary points for the ATP list are collected, the order of which is published on Mondays and which shows precisely where everyone stands, and what that means in the world of male tennis. Branimir Horvat, the director of the tournament, had only three months to organize the premier event, but the job was also done in part due to Top Spin’s years of experience in organizing tennis tournaments. A former tennis player, he knew what to do, and it was a great move to hire big tennis names such as Goran IvaniπeviÊ and Ivan LjubiËiÊ, who generously helped by way of their expertise and experience. IvaniπeviÊ was the assistant director from the very beginning, thus an important part of the tournament, and Ivan LjubiËiÊ - the winner of the first edition in 2006, has since the end of his career been participating in the organization as an ambassador for the tournament. Many former, contemporary, and future global stars have played in Zagreb’s Dom Sportova. Even those who occasionally follow sports cannot remain indifferent to the list of tennis players who have earned points at the PBZ Zagreb Indoors. Some of them entered the tournament with the status of players with a bright future, some were already established stars, and some were near the end of their career but still capable of thwarting the young lions’ plans and proving that they are still capable of playng tennis at a top level. Actually, it is the names themselves that best support that statement. For example, when the tournament had its first edition in 2006, Marin »iliÊ, Ivan LjubiËiÊ, Mario AnËiÊ, Ivo KarloviÊ, Novak –okoviÊ, Andy Murray, Stanislas Wawrinka, David Ferrer, Tim Henman, Robin Söderling, Richard Gasquet, among others, participated in the tournament’s main draw. Among them were the Grand Slam tournament winners, players who were at the very top of the list or near the top - in short, the biggest stars of the sport. Among those mentioned, Tommy Haas, Grigor Dimitrov, Jürgen Melzer, Marcos Baghdatis, Mihail Juænjij, Gilles Simon, Janko TipsareviÊ, and Arnaud Clement played in Zagreb - all the players that could boast about being among the top ten players in the world at some point in their career. The tournament is of a humanitarian nature not only an athletic one. PBZ Zagreb Indoors was the first tournament in the region chosen for the ambassador by the ATP in the ATP Aces for Charity event donating 10,000 EUR for the Children’s Home on Nazorova Street. Year after year, the tournament has been creating new and original things, while also serving as a springboard for young tennis hopefuls. Especially when it comes to Croatian players,

who were always present in the tournament draw, we can say that early on, the tournament developed a habit of accumulating the best things in Croatian men’s tennis. It was here that, for instance, Marin »iliÊ reached the first victory of his career in the ATP tournaments; here Ivan Dodig won his first title in the ATP tournaments; it was here that Borna ΔoriÊ, an upcoming future star in world tennis, first tried to pass the qualifications round at tournaments of this level as a 16-year-old. And so on... Throughout the year, 61 tournaments worldwide are held under the jurisdiction of the ATP. If the Association of Tennis Professionals wished to please all those who have wished to organize one of these events, the number would certainly be exceeded soon, however, the number of tournaments is maintained at this level in order to preserve quality. Thus, being accepted into this elite society is quite difficult, but staying there is probably just as difficult because the ATP sets extremely demanding criteria for the organizers. This is not done by coincidence: these events represent the best of tennis, so attention is paid at every turn. Clearly, it is the players who are the most important, but the other segments are also important. The same thing, of course, applies to PBZ Zagreb Indoors. When it comes to organization, nothing is left to chance, everything is planned out in detail and it is not surprising that the final score sent by the ATP representatives after the tournament has nothing but compliments on it. Croatia is, allegedly, the best or nearly the best in the outstanding organization of sporting events, probably due to its traditional hospitality and the desire to show everyone their best before the world. Even PBZ Zagreb Indoors is not immune to that… During the seven days of the tournament, Dom Sportova is the perfect place for Croatian tennis fans. They can cheer for the top Croatian players; they have a chance to see other tennis stars in person, and the luckiest ones get to return home with valuable gifts from the sponsors, such as a trip to the U.S. Open in New York provided by the PBZ Card! But the picture from Zagreb is not limited to Croatia only − thanks to the boom of cable television, the tournament can now be watched literally all over the world through live broadcasts and recordings - another reason to call PBZ Zagreb Indoors a global event. Besides, it was intended as the ideal combination of Croatian ambiance and top-level tennis. It is now expecting a nice jubilee celebration, the first ten years of hosting - the Croatian and world tennis elite will be at Dom Sportova again from February 2nd to 8th, 2015! ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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U Zagrebu uvijek uæivam igrati Na PBZ Zagreb Indoorsu gotovo polovicu titula (Ëetiri od devet) osvojio je Marin »iliÊ. No ne samo to: u Domu sportova ostvario je prvu pobjedu na ATP turnirima. − Veoma se dobro sjeÊam svoje prve pobjede na ATP turnirima iz 2006. godine s Indoorsa, to je za mene bio prvi veliki rezultat i pokazatelj da sam na dobrom putu prema prvih sto u svijetu. Prva pobjeda uvijek ostane najviπe u sjeÊanju kao najposebnija, a za mene joπ viπe jer se dogodila na domaÊem terenu. »ak ste Ëetiri puta osvojili PBZ Zagreb Indoors. ©to je toliko osobito da ovdje imate tako dobre rezultate? − Uvijek sam volio osjeÊaj pozitivnog pritiska domaÊeg terena, jer moja bi igra za jednu razinu bila bolja. U Zagrebu uvijek uæivam igrati, odgovaraju mi dvoranski uvjeti, ali i domaÊa publika donese mi vjetar u lea i pomogne u kljuËnim trenucima meËa. VeÊ to što sam ostvario najviπe titula u karijeri u Zagrebu pokazuje da kod kuÊe igram najbolje. Osvojili ste US Open u New Yorku, vratili se meu deset najboljih igraËa svijeta... ©to oËekujete u bliskoj buduÊnosti? − Ispunio sam cilj koji sam imao sa svojim timom za ovu godinu, da budem u Top 10. Osvojio sam US Open, a moj je iduÊi cilj ulazak meu pet najboljih. Znam da su i mali pomaci u vrhu veoma teπki i ne dolaze preko noÊi, ali spreman sam na taj veliki izazov i æelim i dalje ostvarivati odliËne rezultate. Vjerujem da je osvajanje US Opena za mene poËetak nove priËe i da me oËekuje mnogo sjajnih turnira, te da ovo nije bila kruna karijere. .

I always enjoy playing in Zagreb Marin »iliÊ won nearly half (four out of nine) of the titles at PBZ Zagreb Indoors. But that is not all: he achieved his first victory at the ATP tournaments at Dom Sportova. − I remember quite well my first ATP tournament victory at the 2006 Indoors. It was my first big win and an indication that I was well on my way to becoming one of the top hundred players in the world. The first victory is always remembered as the most special and for me it is even more so because it was a home victory. You won the PBZ Zagreb Indoors tournament four times. What is so special about this place that makes you achieve such great results? − I’ve always loved the positive pressure of playing at home because it enables me to play at a higher level. I always love to play in Zagreb; the indoor conditions suit me, but also the home crowd gives me the support I need and helps me during the crucial moments of the match. The very fact that I have achieved most titles in my career in Zagreb shows that I play best at home. You won the U.S. Open in New York and you are again among the top ten players in the world. What do you expect in the near future? − I fulfilled my team’s goal for this year, and that was to be in the Top 10. I won the U.S. Open, and my next goal is to make the top five. Although making even small progress at the top is challenging and cannot happen overnight, I’m ready for this big challenge and want to continue achieving excellent results. I believe that winning the U.S. Open is the beginning of a new story for me and that I will have many brilliant tournaments ahead. I also believe that this was not the highlight of my career. ■

N. Reberšak

MARIN »ILIĆ:

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RAYMOND BENJAMIN: ZRAKOPLOVNI PRIJEVOZ I DALJE JE NAJSIGURNIJI AIR TRANSPORT IS STILL THE SAFEST Pišu/By Dino KuËiÊ i/and Dinko StaniËiÊ

rigodom odræavanja 63. europske konferencije o civilnom zrakoplovstvu u Dubrovniku, razgovarali smo s Raymondom Benjaminom, glavnim tajnikom ICAO-a (Organizacija meunarodnoga civilnog zrakoplovstva), koji je bio i putnik u naπem zrakoplovu. Na 63. europskoj konferenciji o civilnom zrakoplovstvu u kolovozu 2014., raspravljalo se o aktualnim dogaajima i aktivnostima u zraËnom prometu u Europi i svijetu, moguÊnostima jaËanja utjecaja Europe u ICAO-u, predstojeÊem razdoblju, te pripremama europskih dræava za izbore Ëlanova VijeÊa ICAO-a i novih Ëlanova upravljaËkih tijela ECAC-a (Europska konferencija za civilno zrakoplovstvo). Gospodina Raymonda takoer smo zamolili za komentar o viziji buduÊega zraËnog prometa, ekoloπkoj odræivosti zraËnog prometa kao jednoj od vaænih toËaka njegova drugog mandata te o dojmovima koje je ponio iz Hrvatske i Dubrovnika.

Arhiva ZL Dubrovnik/ Dubrovnik Airport Archive

■ G. Benjamine, je li ovo Vaπ prvi posjet Hrvatskoj i kakvi su Vaπi dojmovi, profesionalno i privatno? − Ovo nije prvi posjet Hrvatskoj jer sam imao nekoliko prilika posjetiti vaπu zemlju kao izvrπni tajnik Europske konferencije za civilno zrakoplovstvo (ECAC). Uvijek ostanem zapanjen ljepotom Hrvatske i toplinom i gostoljubivoπÊu njezinih ljudi. ■ Kada je poËela Vaπa veza sa zrakoplovstvom? Je li to bilo iskljuËivo preko profesionalne duænosti ili te poveznice idu joπ dalje u Vaπu mladost? − Moj poËetni dodir sa zrakoplovstvom dogodio se preko moje profesionalne duænosti kada sam poËeo raditi u Upravi civilnog zrakoplovstva Francuske. ■ U Vaπa dva mandata kao glavni tajnik ICAO-a vidjeli ste mnoge promjene u zrakoplovstvu, kako s operativne i regulatorne, tako i s gospodarske strane zrakoplovne industrije. Takoer ste svjedoËili velikim globalnim krizama koje su utjecale na to kako doæivljavamo osobnu sigurnost i zaπtitu sa πirokim reperkusijama i dodatnim nadzorom u zrakoplovnoj industriji. Koji su neki od najvaænijih dogaaja i izazova s kojima ste se suoËili ili se joπ suoËavate u Vaπoj ulozi glavnog tajnika ICAO-a? − ICAO smatra da naπi najveÊi prioriteti na sektorskoj razini tijekom iduÊe tri godine i u iduÊim desetljeÊima gotovo svi poËinju od toga da zrakoplovstvo treba evoluirati kako bismo uspjeli udvostruËiti kapacitet naπe mreæe, πto predviamo u razdoblju do 2030. godine. Svi naπi zajedniËki buduÊi ciljevi, bilo taktiËki ili strateπki, politiËki ili ekonomski, znaËajno Êe se poveÊati ovim proπirenjem, a aktivnosti koje poduzimamo odnose se na rjeπavanje kratkoroËnih i dugoroËnijih izazova povezivanja u smislu poveÊanoga zraËnog prostora i zaguπenja zrakoplovnih luka, te rizika vezano uza sigurnost i uËinkovitost zraËnog prijevoza u cjelini. Treba postiÊi ravnoteæu strogih sigurnosnih mjera, a raste i pritisak na okoliπ u vezi s emisijom stakleniËkih plinova, lokalnom kvalitetetom zraka i bukom u blizini zraËnih luka. Bit Êe potrebna velika ulaganja u razvoj zraËnih luka, sustava zraËne navigacije i pripadajuÊe infrastrukture kako bi se uËinkovito nosile sa skoraπnjim kretanjima u vezi s udvostruËenjem broja putnika i poveÊanjem broja zrakoplova. Zatim je tu potencijalni, Ëak dramatiËni manjak pilota, mehaniËara i kontrolora zraËnog prometa, s kojim Êemo se uskoro suoËiti, kao i sa zahtjevom za ubrzanjem izobrazbe i

certiﬁkacije za ove zrakoplovne profesionalce, te zatim potreba za novim rukovoditeljima koji Êe ih voditi. Dopustite mi da dodatno naglasim kako treba pronaÊi naËine da osiguramo dugoroËnu ekonomsku odræivost zrakoplovnih tvrtki, zraËnih luka i drugih operatora tako πto Êemo se bolje suoËiti s problemima kao πto su pristup træiπtu, vlasniπtvo i kontrola zraËnih prijevoznika, pravedna i poπtena konkurencija, minimalni porezi i pristojbe, te usklaeni reæimi zaπtite potroπaËa. OËekivani brzi razvoj novih tehnoloπkih rjeπenja, te njihova primjena u svim podruËjima zraËnog prometa, ostat Êe i nadalje dinamiËni izazov za regulatore i operatore u godinama koje slijede. U tom kontekstu htio bih osobito naglasiti potrebu za kontinuiranom uËinkovitom provedbom ICAO-vih Standarda i preporuËenih praksi (SARP), planova i programa, na globalno usklaen naËin, te da bismo se svi mi trebali nastaviti baviti time ako æelimo uËinkovito rijeπiti rastuÊe nejednakosti meu zemljama Ëlanicama ICAO-a glede njihovih sposobnosti za provoenje novih zahtjeva. Neke od mjera koje smo poduzeli kako bismo pomogli nositi se s tim problemima ukljuËuju fokusiranje naπe pozornost i napora na pruæanje uËinkovitije ICAO-ove pomoÊi i obuke. To smo postigli lokaliziranim planovima djelovanja kako bi dræave Ëlanice mogle provesti toËnije analize nedostataka i uËinkovitije se pozabaviti odgovarajuÊim izazovima. Takoer smo uveli ICAO Monitoring and Assistance Review Board (Revizijski odbor za nadzor i pomoÊ - MARB) koji koordinira uËinkovite strategije pomoÊi dræavama i, πto je najvaænije, prati rezultate. A kada je rijeË o nedostatku predvienoga struËnog kadra, ICAO-ov program Zrakoplovni struËnjaci nove generacije (NGAP) ocjenjuje i preporuËuje odgovarajuÊu obuku i druga rjeπenja za poËetak pronalaæenja praktiËnih rjeπenja. Uz pomoÊ tih i ostalih prioriteta u vezi s obukom, osobno sam se pobrinuo za uvoenje novoga ICAO-ovoga Globalnog ureda za obuku u zrakoplovstvu, Ëija je duænost planiranje, upravljanje i koordinacija svih edukacijskih aktivnosti ICAO-a, te voenje naπih aktivnosti u podruËju razvoja ljudskih resursa u zrakoplovstvu. Ostale stavke na ICAO-vom horizontu ukljuËuju sigurnu integraciju suborbitalnoga svemirskog putovanja s civilnim zrakoplovstvom i sve uËestalije civilno koriπtenje daljinski upravljanih zrakoplovnih sustava (RPAS). Planiramo dva vaæna dogaaja zaredom za svaku od tih tema za oæujak 2015. godine, a relevantna pitanja takoer Êe se raspravljati na naπoj drugoj CROATIA AIRLINES

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Konferenciji o visokoj razini sigurnosti u veljaËi iduÊe godine. ■ Ako se vratimo na neke od ICAO-vih glavnih zadataka tijekom Vaπeg mandata, moæete li nam reÊi kako vidite razvoj programa zaπtite okoliπa, toËnije, smanjenje emisije CO2 u zrakoplovstvu, te relevantne lokalne aktivnosti koje se poduzimaju u tom smislu (EU Emission Trading Scheme, Market Based Measures...)? − ICAO djeluje u Ëvrstoj suradnji s vladama, zrakoplovnom industrijom i drugim dionicima, Ëime naglaπavamo vrijednost globalno usklaenog pristupa rjeπavanju problema utjecaja zrakoplovstva na okoliπ. No, znamo da se mora viπe uËiniti, osobito glede rjeπavanja uËinaka razvoja zrakoplovstva na klimatske promjene i, opÊenito, na ukupnu ekoloπku odræivost naπeg sektora. Primjerice, na 37. skupπtini, koja je odræana u 2010. godini, ICAO je utvrdio niz globalnih ciljeva, ËineÊi zrakoplovstvo prvim industrijskim sektorom koji je to napravio. Nakon naπe 37. skupπtine, ICAO je poËeo intenzivno i dobrovoljno raditi na izgradnji sposobnosti u vezi sa smanjenjem CO2 emisije u sklopu inicijative Akcijski planovi zemalja Ëlanica. OhrabrujuÊe je da su dræave koje tvore viπe od 80 posto globalnoga zraËnog prometa razvile i predale svoje akcijske planove ICAO-u. Takoer smo pomogli koordinirati niz uspjeπnih ﬁnancijskih partnerstava usmjerenih prema tom cilju. U procesu smo razvoja novog Standarda za CO2 u zrakoplovstvu, koji Êe biti dovrπen do 2016. godine. ICAO predvodi i razvoj globalne træiπne sheme mjera, koja Êe biti predstavljena na 39. zasjedanju Skupπtine u 2016. godini. Sporazum i jasno deﬁniran plan aktivnosti veÊ su uspostavljeni, a ICAO Êe tijekom 2015. godine provesti niz globalnih avijacijskih dijaloga o toj temi u svim ICAO-vim regijama. Bilo bi dobro prisjetiti se da je tijekom posljednjih nekoliko desetljeÊa sektor zraËnog prometa ostvario veoma pozitivnu razinu druπtveno-ekonomskog uËinka na globalnoj razini, pa su zrakoplovi poveÊali uËinkovitost u potroπnji goriva za 80 posto i postali znaËajno tiπi. To su izvrsni rezultati i na njima Êemo nastaviti raditi. ■ Mislite li da postoji potreba za znaËajnijom sinergijom izmeu ICAO i drugih regionalnih zrakoplovnih institucija i organizacija (u Europi posebno s ECAC, EK, EASA i EUROCONTROL), osobito u vezi s regulatornim pitanjima, te standardizacijom i nadzorom? Dobar primjer za to je korelacija izmeu ICAO CMA i EASA sustava za standardizaciju. Slaæete li se da bi ICAO trebao preuzeti vodeÊu ulogu u prenoπenju znanja i dobre prakse u svim svojim regijama i zemljama Ëlanicama, 164

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osobito onima kojima nedostaju kapaciteti, kako organizacijski tako i ﬁnancijski, da potpuno razviju svoje zrakoplovne sustave do globalno prihvatljivog standarda? − ICAO ima proaktivnu ulogu u uspostavi partnerstva meu dionicima u podruËju zrakoplovstva. Suradnja sa EU i regionalnim tijelima kao πto su ECAC, EASA i Eurocontrol i nadalje je kljuËna za mnoge naπe prioritete u suradnji. Primjerice, ECAC je postao kljuËan za sposobnost ICAO-a da odræi paneuropske odnose izvan Ëlanstva u EU, da ne spominjemo pomoÊ koju nam pruæa u aktivnostima što se temelje na relevantnim postignuÊima EU. Takoer moæe biti sugovornik ICAO-a na glavnim europskim sastancima i dogaanjima, uz pomoÊ u razvoju i odræavanju odnosa s regionalnim organizacijama i drugim dræavama izvan Europe. Osim toga, jaËamo naπe odnose znaËajnim i raznolikim poveÊanjem broja sporazuma o suradnji, koje sklapamo s meunarodnim i regionalnim organizacijama. Treba osigurati provedbu elemenata zajedniËke vizije, zajedniËkih prioriteta i zajedniËkih ciljeva svih svjetskih povjerenstava za civilno zrakoplovstvo i ICAO-a, uglavnom kontinuiranim poboljπanjem komunikacije i suradnje. Daljnji je napredak takoer postignut revizijom odnosa izmeu naπih regionalnih ureda i pojedinih zemalja Ëlanica i dionika. Primjerice, naπi regionalni uredi sada postaju mnogo proaktivniji u ispunjavanju svoje uloge pruæanja pomoÊi i koordinacije s dræavama, a ËvršÊa suradnja sa srodnim regionalnim tijelima kljuËna je za uspjeh u tom podruËju. Regionalni uredi u veÊoj Êe mjeri svoje aktivnosti temeljiti na rezultatima i odgovornostima, a svaka regija sada na svojim internetskim stranicama prikazuje rezultate u realnom vremenu, tako da je transparentno predstavljen napredak u odnosu na kljuËne regionalne ciljeve. ■ Kako biste ocijenili stanje zrakoplovstva danas u odnosu na poËetak svoga prvog mandata? Postoje li ciljevi ili izazovi tijekom tog razdoblja, u kojima je ICAO mogao biti uspjeπniji ili u koje se trebao ukljuËiti? − Ima problema koje moæete predvidjeti i nekih koji su manje evidentni. Dakako, nakon stupanja na duænost bilo mi je jasno da Êemo nastojati poboljπati ukupne sigurnosne performanse u zrakoplovstvu, a najnoviji podaci o broju nesreÊa i fatalnih dogaaja, osobito u prioritetnim podruËjima kao πto su dogaaji na pisti za polijetanje i slijetanje, te gubitak kontrole tijekom leta, jasan su dokaz naπih uspjeha što se toga tiËe. Dakako, nisam mogao ni zamisliti incident kakav je bio sa zrakoplovom MH370, koji je bez presedana, ali istodobno sam veoma ohrabren brzinom i uËinkovitoπÊu kojom su

ICAO i naπi partneri u meunarodnoj zajednici zrakoplovne industrije odgovorili na izazove što ih je incident donio. ■ Vrijedi li isto i za tragiËni gubitak zrakoplova MH17? − Ne mogu reÊi da bih æelio da smo bili viπe ili manje ukljuËeni u ove ili bilo koje druge oËekivane ili neoËekivane izazove za vrijeme mog mandata - uglavnom zato πto smo u svim tim situacijama bili na odgovarajuÊi naËin ukljuËeni u sva glavna pitanja koja utjeËu na civilno zrakoplovstvo na temelju naπeg mandata i uloge. ©to se tiËe toga gdje smo moæda mogli biti uspjeπniji nego πto smo bili, mogu reÊi da bih osobno volio vidjeti znaËajniji praktiËni napredak i dogovor u vezi s globalnim MBM za zrakoplovstvo na naπoj posljednjoj skupπtini, ali isto sam tako potpuno svjestan da se odluke koje dræave donose u tom podruËju ne temelje iskljuËivo na razmatranjima u vezi s civilnim zrakoplovstvom. Politika zaπtite okoliπa jest domena koja moæe imati posljedice i za druga podruËja glavnih industrijskih i gospodarskih aktivnosti i zato, bilo izravno ili periferno, osobito je izazovno podruËje za dræave da bi postigle meunarodni konsenzus preko ICAO-a. ■ ©to bi bila Vaπa poruka, kao glavnog tajnika ICAO-a i iskusnog struËnjaka u zrakoplovstvu, redovitim putnicima koji se svakodnevno koriste avionskim prijevozom, bilo da je rijeË o profesionalnim ili osobnim potrebama, o svim aspektima iskustva zrakoplovnog prijevoza? − Najprije bih ih æelio podsjetiti da je zrakoplovni prijevoz i nadalje najsigurniji oblik masovnog prijevoza, te da konstantno poveÊavamo broj putniËkih linija i poboljπavamo povezivanje unutar naπe globalne mreæe kako bismo spojili ljude i tvrtke. Naπa sposobnost sigurnoga, brzoga i pouzdanog povezivanja pojedinaca, te πirenje pristupa træiπtu ima duboke socioekonomske uËinke na opÊe razine blagostanja gdje god naπi zrakoplovi lete, a to je moæda i najveÊa pojedinaËna korist meunarodnoga civilnog zrakoplovstva. Takoer bih im rekao da, zato što sam i ja putnik, itekako razumijem frustracije glede Ëekanja na kontrolnim toËkama, te plaÊanja poreza i pristojbi kad god æelim otputovati od toËke A do toËke B. ICAO radi vrlo naporno na utvrivanju novih pristupa sigurnosti temeljenih na rizicima koji su robustni i pouzdani, ali i pristupaËni za sve dræave i zraËne luke, te ne ometaju ukupno putniËko iskustvo. A πto se tiËe poreza i pristojbi, trudimo se educirati dræave o tome zaπto je vaæno ne nametati kratkoroËne namete za putnike, uglavnom zato da bi zrakoplovna djelatnost mogla napredovati i tako donijeti dugoroËne koristi koje sam veÊ spomenuo, te proπiriti poreznu osnovicu što ih prati.

n the occasion of the 63 rd European Civil Aviation Conference in Dubrovnik, we spoke to Mr. Raymond Benjamin, the Secretary General of ICAO (International Civil Aviation Organization), who was also a passenger aboard our aircraft. At the 63rd European Civil Aviation Conference, held in August 2014, there was discussion about current events and activities in European and global air traffic, the possibilities of strengthening Europe’s influence in ICAO, the forthcoming period, and preparations by the countries of Europe for the election of ICAO Council members and new members of the ECAC (European Civil Aviation Conference) management boards. We also asked Mr. Raymond to give us his view of the future of air traffic, the ecological sustainability of air traffic as one of the important points of his second mandate, and his impressions of

Croatia and Dubrovnik. ■ Mr Benjamin, was this your ﬁrst visit to Croatia and what are your impressions, both from a professional and private aspect? − This was not my ﬁrst trip to Croatia as I have had several opportunities in the past to visit the country as Executive Secretary of the European Civil Aviation Conference (ECAC). I am always struck by the beauty of Croatia and by the warmth and hospitality of its people. ■ When did your connection with aviation start? Was it purely in a professional capacity or do these links go further back into your youth? − My initial connection with aviation was in a professional capacity when I was appointed to the civil aviation authority of France. ■ In your two terms as ICAO Secretary General you have seen many changes in aviation, be it from an operational, regulatory and economic side of the aviation business. You have also witnessed major global crises that affected how we perceive personal safety and security with extensive repercussion and added scrutiny on the aviation industry. What are some of the most important events and challenges

you dealt with or are still dealing with in your role as ICAO Secretary General? − It is ICAO’s view that our greatest priorities on a sector-wide basis over the coming triennium, and indeed over the coming decades, virtually all derive from how aviation must evolve in order to manage the doubling of our network’s capacity now being projected through 2030. All of our shared future goals, whether tactical or strategic, political or economic, will be magnified significantly by this expansion and the actions we take to address near- and longer-term connectivity challenges in terms of increased airspace and airport congestion and the risk to the safety and efficiency of air transport operations in general; the need to balance stringent security measures with facilitation; and growing environmental pressures relating to greenhouse gas emissions, local air quality and noise around airports. There will be a need for massive investments in airport development, air navigation systems and related infrastructure in order to effectively cope with the coming doubling of passengers and aircraft movements. Then there is the potential, even dramatic shortage of pilots, mechanics and air traffic controllers we will soon be facing, as well as the equivalent requirement to accelerate training and certification for these aviation professionals and the subsequent need for new managers to lead them. And let me additionally underscore that we must find ways of ensuring the long-term economic viability of airlines, airports and other operators by coming to better grips with issues such as market access, air carrier ownership and control, fair and equitable competition, minimised taxes and levies, and harmonised consumer protection regimes. Furthermore, the expected rapid evolution in new technological advancements, and their application across all air transport domains, will remain a dynamic challenge for both regulators and operators in the years to come. I would stress strongly in this context the need to continuously ensure effective implementation of ICAO’s Standards and Recommended Practices (SARPs), plans and programmes, in a globally-harmonised manner, and furthermore that this should continue to be a concern for all of us if we are to effectively address the growing disparities amongst ICAO Member States in their capacity to implement new requirements. Some of the measures we have taken to help deal with these concerns include focusing our attention and efforts on the delivery of more effective ICAO assistance and training. This has been accomplished through state-specific

Na kraju, æelio bih ih uvjeriti da su svi koji su ukljuËeni u zraËni promet potpuno svjesni izazova u vezi sa zaπtitom okoliπa, s kojima se danas suoËava naπ planet, te da naπ sektor reagira na te izazove na jedinstvenoj osnovi iz godine u godinu. Naπi rezultati glede poboljπanja emisijskih svojstava suvremenih mlaænjaka znaËajni su, a nastavit Êemo s daljnjim poboljπanjima i uvesti inovacije koje su potrebne kako bismo pruæali pouzdanu i odræivu uslugu prijevoza u buduÊnosti. .

plans of action so that states can determine more accurate gap-analyses and address their respective challenges more effectively. I also implemented an ICAO Monitoring and Assistance Review Board (MARB) which coordinates effective assistance strategies for states and, importantly, monitors results. And where projected skilled personnel shortages are concerned, the ICAO Next Generation Aviation Professionals (NGAP) programme has been assessing and recommending appropriate training and other solutions to begin finding practical solutions. In aid of these and other training-related priorities, I personally saw to the implementation of a new ICAO Global Aviation Training Office which is now responsible for the planning, management and coordination of all ICAO training activities, leading our action on human resources development for aviation. Other items on ICAO’s horizon include the safe integration of sub-orbital space travel with civil aviation and the increasingly prevalent civilian use of remotely-piloted aircraft systems (RPAS). We have two important events on each of these topics now planned back-to-back for March 2015, and related issues will also be discussed at our second High-Level Safety Conference in February of next year. ■ Coming back to some of ICAO’s main agenda items during your term in office, can you tell us how you see the development of the environmental agenda, more precisely the reduction of CO2 emissions in aviation and all the related, more local activities undertaken to that effect (EU Emission Trading Scheme, Market Based Measures...). − ICAO has been working hand-in-hand with governments, the aviation industry and other stakeholders, emphasising the value of a globally-harmonised approach to address aviation’s environmental impacts. But we know that more must be done, in particular to address the effects of aviation growth on climate change and, more generally, on our sector’s overall environmental sustainability. At the 2010 37th Assembly for instance, ICAO set out a number of global aspirational goals − making aviation the first industry sector to do so. CROATIA AIRLINES

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ICAO also embarked on a robust and voluntary CO2 emissions-reduction capacity building effort after our 37th Assembly, based around the framework of a States’ action plans initiative. To date, we have encouraged states representing over 80 per cent of global air traffic to develop and submit their action plans to ICAO. We have also helped to coordinate a number of successful funding partnerships towards that goal. We are also in the process of developing a new Aircraft CO2 Standard by 2016, and the ICAO is leading the development of a global marketbased measure scheme which will be presented at the 39th Session of the Assembly in 2016. An agreement and a clearly-defined roadmap have already been established, and ICAO will be conducting a series of Global Aviation Dialogues on this topic in all ICAO Regions during 2015. And we would do well to recall that the air transport sector has achieved a remarkably positive level of socio-economic impact on a global basis over the recent decades, even as aircraft have become 80 per cent more fuel efficient and significantly quieter. This is an admirable record and one we will continue to build upon. ■ Do you think there is a need to achieve more synergies between ICAO and other regional aviation authorities and organisation (in Europe specifically with ECAC, EC, EASA and EUROCONTROL), especially in regulatory and standardisation/oversight matters? One good example here is the correlation of the ICAO CMA and the EASA Standardisation System. Do you agree that ICAO should take the lead in transferring the knowledge and good practices to all of its regions and member states, especially those that lack the capacity, both organisational and financial, to fully develop their aviation systems up to a globally acceptable standard? − ICAO is playing a more proactive role in the establishment of partnerships among aviation stakeholders. Collaboration with the EU and regional bodies such as ECAC, EASA and Eurocontrol continue to be instrumental to many of our collaborative priorities. ECAC, for instance, has become instrumental to ICAO’s ability to maintain pan-European relations beyond EU membership, not to mention assisting us in building on relevant EU achievements where appropriate. It can also serve as an interlocutor for ICAO at major European meetings and events, in addition to helping in the development and maintenance of inter-relationships with regional organisations and other states outside of Europe. We have also been strengthening many of our relationships through a significant and di166

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verse expansion in the number of cooperative memoranda we have been entering into with international and regional organisations. There is a need to ensure elements of a shared vision, shared priorities and shared targets between all global Civil Aviation Commissions and ICAO, mainly through continually enhanced communications and collaboration. Further progress has also been achieved by revising how our Regional Offices (ROs) interface with their local states and stakeholders. Our ROs, for instance, are now becoming much more proactive in fulfilling their assistance and coordination role with states and closer cooperation with related regional bodies is particularly instrumental to success in this area. The ROs have been directed to become more performance-based and accountable, and each Region now has a real-time dashboard on its website where progress against a variety of critical regional targets is transparently presented. ■ How would you assess the state of aviation today compared to the beginning of your first term in office? Are there any achievements or challenges during that time that you wish ICAO had been more successful or at least involved in? − There are issues you can foresee and there are some which are less evident. Certainly upon taking office I understood very well that we would be seeking to improve the overall safety performance of aviation, and the latest accident and fatality rates, especially in priority areas such as runway incursions/excursions and loss of control inflight, are a clear testament to our successes being seen in that regard. I would not, however, have imagined an incident occurring such as we experienced with MH370, which was especially unprecedented, but at the same time I have been very encouraged by the speed and effectiveness by which ICAO and our partners in the international aviation industry community have responded to the challenges it presented. The same would go for the tragic loss of MH17. I would not really say that I would have wished we’d been more or less involved in these or any other challenges which were anticipated or not during my mandate − mainly because in all of these situations we have been as involved as appropriate on all major issues affecting civil aviation based on our recognised mandate and role. In terms of where we could have been more successful than we have been, I could say that on a personal level I would have been encouraged to see more practical progress and agreement forged around the global MBM for aviation at our last Assembly, but I also am fully

aware that decisions in this area are not taken by states exclusively on the basis of their civil aviation considerations. Environmental policy in one domain can have repercussions on other areas of major industrial and economic activity as well, whether directly or peripherally, and that makes this an especially challenging area for states to resolve international consensus through ICAO. ■ What would be your message, as ICAO Secretary General and an experienced aviation professional, to the regular passenger which uses an airplane on a daily basis, be it for professional or personal, leisure purposes, regarding all the aspects of the aviation experience and all it brings? − I would first remind them that flying is still the safest form of mass transportation, and that we are continually expanding the routes and connectivity aspects of our global network to bring people and businesses together. This ability to safely, rapidly and reliably connect individuals and expand market access has had profound socio-economic impacts on general levels of prosperity wherever aircraft fly, and it is perhaps the greatest single benefit of international civil aviation. I would also tell them that, as a traveller myself, I very much understand the frustration of having to be delayed by checkpoints and gouged by taxes and fees whenever I choose to fly from point A to point B. ICAO is working very hard on determining new and risk-based approaches to security that are at once robust and dependable, but also affordable for states and airports and unobtrusive to the overall passenger experience. And where the proliferation of taxes and fees is concerned, we are doing our very best to educate states on why it is important not to impose these types of short-sighted cash grabs on air travellers, mainly so that aviation activity can flourish and in so doing deliver the longer-term prosperity benefits I referred to above, as well as the expanded tax bases that accompany them. Lastly, I would reassure them that everyone involved in air transport is fully aware of the environmental challenges now facing our planet, and that our sector is responding to that challenge on a unified basis each and every year. Our record on improving the emissions performance of modern jet aircraft has been noteworthy, and we will continue to make related improvements and put in place the innovations which are needed to ensure that we provide a reliable and sustainable transportation service to humanity well into the foreseeable future. ■

ZABLISSTAJTE UZ NAŠE ZLATNE RUKE BLISSFUL VACATION IN CROATIA

services according to your mood and needs. If you want to relax your body after a long day visiting many tourist attractions, then spa zone might be just the right choice for you. Relax your body completely and face new challenges in a more alive and eager way. In order to achieve optimal results, you can choose a combination of complementary treatments such as aromatherapy massage which will additionally fill you up with energy or you can try mesotherapy, a method which presents an alternative to esthetic surgery and renews your skin without any pain. You can also try a unique technique of permanent makeup in order to correct small irregularities such as uneven eyebrows, unequal eye size or lips with undefined contours. Don’t hesitate to see how our professional eyelash extensions suit you.

Smješten u središtu grada, poznati zagre-

vam odgovaraju naše profesionalne ekstenzi-

bački Bliss studio pruža prijeko potrebno

je trepavica i priuštite si prodoran pogled i

mjesto mira, gdje možete uživati u jedinstve-

duže trepavice, što će zacijelo izmamiti

nom doživljaju i očuvanju zdravlja i ljepote.

uzdahe na svečanim prigodama ili tijekom

Uvijek na raspolaganju, naše zlatne ruke

obavljanja svakodnevnih aktivnosti. Ako ste u

pružit će vam potrebnu vitalnost, stoga ne

središtu grada, a pri tome u žurbi, brži

oklijevajte posjetiti nas u Ilici 15, gdje možete

tretmani kao što su pedikura, manikura, te

izabrati jednu od naših mnogobrojnih usluga,

depilacija voskom ili šećernom pastom mogu

prema vašem raspoloženju i potrebama.

biti upravo oni mali dodiri ljepote zbog kojih

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ćete se osjećati blistavo i privlačno. S

radnog dana, SPA zona najbolji je odabir.

obzirom na veoma široku paletu vrhunskih

Opustite tijelo i um i puni energije suočite se

usluga i uz educirani tim, neka Bliss studio

s novim izazovima. Kako bi se postigli

bude jedna od vaših omiljenih zagrebačkih

optimalni rezultati, odaberite kombinaciju

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komplementarnih

tretmana

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Enjoy your penetrating gaze and thicker lashes that draw sighs during special occasions, but also during everyday activities. If you are in a hurry, faster treatments such as pedicures, manicures, epilation or depilation might be just the right touch to improve your holiday. Taking into consideration many

aromaterapijske masaže, koje će vas dodatno ispuniti energijom, ili pak možete probati

Located in the center of Zagreb, Bliss Studio

mezoterapiju, jedinstvenu metodu koja je

will give you a much-needed place of peace

najbolja i jedina prava alternativa estetskoj

where you can provide yourselves a unique

kirurgiji, obnavljajući kožu potpuno bezbolno.

beauty experience on vacation. So don’t

Za otklanjanje manjih nepravilnosti kao što su

hesitate to visit us at Ilica Street 15

neravne ili rijetke obrve, nejednaka veličina

because we’re always at your disposal and

očiju ili usne s nejasnim obrisima, prepo-

you don’t have to wait for a long time for our

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golden hands to provide you the vitality you

make-upa. Ne ustručavajte se uvjeriti kako

need. You can choose one of our many

of our services, let Bliss Studio be one of your favorite stations while you’re in Zagreb. Step into the best beauty studio in Zagreb.

www.bliss.hr CROATIA AIRLINES

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PROSINAC/DECEMBER Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings

29.11. 2014.-1.1.2015. ADVENT U ZAGREBU/ ADVENT IN ZAGREB U vrijeme adventa Zagreb æivi u posebnom ozraËju i jednostavno ga morate doæivjeti. Tih dana na mnogim se trgovima i ulicama grada pjeva, pleπe, zabavlja, uæiva u tradicionalnim delicijama na otvorenome ili tematski osmiπljenim programima, πto gostima i graanima grada Zagreba donosi ugoaj adventa i BoæiÊa./During Advent, Zagreb boasts a special ambiance, which you simply must experience. On many squares and streets, there is singing, dancing, having fun, and enjoying traditional delicacies in the open air or thematically designed programmes that bring the spirit of Advent and Christmas to Zagreb’s visitors and residents. www.adventzagreb.com 3.12.2014.-1.1.2015., Zagreb ADVENT NA ZRINJEVCU/ ADVENT AT ZRINJEVAC Na Zrinjevcu Êe se plesati na otvorenom, a za najljepπi zagrebaËki perivoj, smjeπten tik do srediπnjega gradskog trga, pomno je osmiπljen i glazbeni program. Uz mnogo zabave koja vas ondje oËekuje, svi posjetitelji ovih glazbenih manifestacija moÊi Êe uæivati i u pomalo zaboravljenim zagrebaËkim specijalitetima./There will be dancing in the open air at Zrinjevac, and a music programme will be carefully designed for the most beautiful park in Zagreb, situated by the central square. With plenty of fun awaiting you, all visitors of these music events will be able to enjoy the almost forgotten specialties of Zagreb.

* Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara This schedule is valid on November 15th. Allow for change after this date.

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6.-20.12., Zagreb ADVENT NA CVJETNOM TRGU/ ADVENT AT FLOWER SQUARE Poklonike klasike i jazza oËekuje prava glazbena Ëarolija na Cvjetnom trgu, gdje Êe muzicirati mnogi glazbenici./Real musical magic awaits fans of classical music and jazz at Flower Square, where many musicians will be performing. 6.12., Zagreb KONCERT GRUPE PIPS, CHIPS & VIDEOCLIPS/THE PIPS, CHIPS & VIDEOCLIPS BAND CONCERT ZagrebaËki rock-bend odræat Êe svoj veliki koncert u Domu sportova./ Zagreb’s rock band will hold its big concert at Dom Sportova. www.eventim.hr 6.12.2014.-11.1.2015., Grabovnica BOÆIΔNA PRI»A OBITELJI SALAJ/THE SALAJ FAMILY’S CHRISTMAS STORY Ovogodiπnja BoæiÊna priËa obitelji Salaj poËinje 6. prosinca 2014. i traje do 11. sijeËnja 2015. Ove godine imanje Êe biti okiÊeno s gotovo milijun i petsto tisuÊa žaruljica, a oËekuje vas bogat program i gastronomska ponuda./ This year’s Salaj Family’s Christmas Story starts on the 6th of December, 2014 and lasts until the 11th of January, 2015. This year the estate will be decorated with just under one million, five hundred thousand lights; you can expect a rich programme and many gastronomic delights on offer. www.bozicnabajka.com 4.-7.12. Zagreb DISNEY ON ICE Festival ledene Ëarolije odræat Êe se u Areni Zagreb, a za ulazak u zaËarani svijeta Miki Maus i Mini Maus provest Êe vas kroz najËarobnije trenutke diljem kraljevstva. OËaravajuÊa kraljevska revija, koja istiËe priËe Disneyjevih najomiljenijh junakinja, dinamiËnom koreografijom potaknut Êe gledatelje na pjevanje, ples i bodrenje svojih najdraæih Disneyjevih likova./The ice magic festival will take place at Arena Zagreb, where Mickey and Minnie Mouse will take you through the kingdom’s most magical moments to help you find yourself in the magic world. The enchanting royal revue, which highlights the stories of Disney’s favourite heroines, will use dynamic choreography to inspire viewers to sing, dance and cheer for their favourite Disney characters. www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

10.12., Zagreb KONCERT JOSIPE LISAC/ JOSIPA LISAC’S CONCERT

Legendarnu Josipu Lisac moæete posluπati u Tvornici kulture, gdje Êe odræati Koncert za Karla./You can listen to the legendary Josipa Lisac at Tvornica Kulture (the Culture Factory) where The Concert for Carlo will be held. www.eventim.hr 12.12., Zagreb KONCERT MORRISSEYA/ MORRISSEY’S CONCERT

Jedan od najznaËajnijih tekstopisaca suvremene glazbe nastupa u Zagrebu, gdje Êe u sklopu obiljeæavanja 10 godina INmusic festivala odræati nezaboravan koncert u povodu tiskanja novog albuma World peace is none of your business./One of the most signiﬁcant contemporary music writers will be performing in Zagreb following the release of his latest album, World Peace is None of Your Business. An unforgettable concert will be held as part of the celebration of the INmusic Festival’s 10th anniversary. www.inmusicfestival.com prosinac, »akovec BOÆIΔNI SAJAM - NA TO MLADO LETO/THE CHRISTMAS FAIR - NA TO MLADO LETO Tradicionalna manifestacija koja se odræava svake godine i na kojoj se predstavlja mnogo izlagaËa, pravih majstora tradicijskih zanata./A traditional event which takes place every year and where many exhibitors and true masters of traditional crafts display their wares. www.najboljeuhrvatskoj.info

Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 31.12., Fuæine ISPRAΔAJ STARE GODINE U FUÆINAMA/NEW YEAR’S EVE IN FUÆINE Petnaesti put u središtu Fuæina ispratit Êe se stara godina u podne. Sve goste oËekuje prava veselica, koja Êe poËeti u 10 sati, a zavrπiti u kasnim poslijepodnevnim satima./For the ﬁfteenth time in a row, New Year’s Eve will be celebrated in the centre of Fuæine at noon. All visitors are in for a true party which is scheduled to begin at 10 a.m. and end in the late afternoon. www.tz-fuzine.hr

SIJE»ANJ/JANUARY Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 4. i 6.1., Zagreb Audi FIS Svjetski kup VIP SNOW QUEEN TROPHY 2015/ The Audi FIS Ski World Cup VIP SNOW QUEEN TROPHY 2015 Na zagrebaËkom Sljemenu sudjeluju najbolji slalomaπi iz cijeloga svijeta, a u tradicionalno dogaanje ukljuËuje se i publika iz srediπta grada. Na Sljemenu i u gradu oËekuje vas dobra zabava i gastronomska ponuda./The best slalom skiers from all over the world participate in this competition at the Sljeme Ski Resort. Spectators from the city’s centre join the traditional event. You can expect great entertainment and gastronomic delights on offer both on the mountain and in the city. www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr 17.1., Meimurska vinska cesta VINCEKOV POHOD PO ME–IMURSKIM BREGIMA/ ST. VINCENT’S HIKE ON THE ME–IMURJE HILLS U Meimurju i drugim hrvatskim krajevima Vincekovo oznaËava poËetak vinogradarske godine. Stara je tradicija izvoenja ceremonijala u vinogradima, kojim se osigurava dobar urod vinove loze. Na idiliËnim snjeænim breæuljcima dobru atmosferu pruæaju domaÊi muæikaπi uz kuhano vino i tradicijsku gastronomsku ponudu, jer na Vincekovo ni jedan vinogradar ne smije biti sam pri klijeti./ St. Vincent’s Day marks the beginning of a winegrowing year in Meimurje and other Croatian regions. It is an old tradition of performing a ceremony in vineyards to ensure

good vineyard yields. Local musicians, mulled wine, and traditional cuisine provide a good atmosphere on the snowy hills because on St. Vincent’s Day, it is said that no winegrower is allowed to be alone in the cottage. www.tzm.hr Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 17.1.-18.2., Rijeka RIJE»KI KARNEVAL/ THE RIJEKA CARNIVAL Rijeka je postala glavnim gradom karnevala u Hrvatskoj. Meunarodna karnevalska povorka kruna je karnevala. Natjecanje je to u maπtovitosti, duhovitosti i originalnosti. Pridruæite se mnoπtvu maski i prepustite dobrom raspoloæenju na ulicama naπega primorskoga grada./Rijeka has become the carnival city capital in Croatia. The International Carnival Parade is the crown of the carnival. It is a competition in creativity, humour and originality. Join the multitude of masks and bask in the atmosphere on our seaside city streets. 23.1.-izbor Kraljice RijeËkog karnevala i primopredaja kljuËa grada/the Rijeka Carnival Queen Pageant and the handover of the city key 7.2.-djeËja karnevalska povorka/The Children’s Carnival Parade 15.2.-meunarodna karnevalska povorka/The International Carnival Parade www.rijecki-karneval.hr/

VELJA»A/FEBRUARY Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 12.-15.2., Zagreb 4. ZAGREB COFFEE & CHOCOFEST/THE 4th ZAGREB COFFEE & CHOCOFEST Na festivalu Êe biti predstavljene najbolje domaÊe i svjetske Ëokolade te najnoviji trendovi u industriji Ëokolade. Bit Êe organiziran i zabavni program, nagradne igre, degustacije i predstavljanja − u znaku Ëokolade./The festival will display the best local and international chocolates and present the latest trends in the chocolate industry. An entertainment programme, prizes, games, chocolate-tastings and other promotions will be organized in the spirit of chocolate. www.zagreb-chocofest.hr

14.2., Zagreb KONCERT MASSIMA SAVIΔA/ MASSIMO SAVIΔ’S CONCERT Koncerti Massima u povodu Dana zaljubljenih u Zagrebu veÊ su postali

tradicionalni i za njih se uvijek traæi ulaznica viπe. Koncert Êe se odræati u zagrebaËkom Domu sportova./ Massimo’s Valentine’s Day concerts in Zagreb have already become a tradition, which always calls for getting an extra ticket. The concert will take place at Zagreb’s Dom Sportova. www.eventim.hr

22. 2.- 1. 3., Zagreb ZAGREBDOX Na festivalu se prikazuju najbolji autorski i kreativni dokumentarni filmovi snimljeni i producirani u posljednjih godinu dana, s naglaskom na novo u svijetu dokumentarnog filma./The festival features the best auteur and creative documentary films shot and produced in the last year with a focus on everything that is new in the world of documentary films. www.zagrebdox.net 6.-17.2. Samobor 189. SAMOBORSKI FA©NIK/ THE 189 th SAMOBOR FA©NIK Samoborci tjeraju zle proπlogodiπnje

sile, opraπtaju se od zime i otvaraju proljeÊu i predstojeÊoj godini. Desetak dana ulicama toga lijepoga grada vladaju maπtovite maske i veselje./ Samobor’s residents chase away last year’s evil forces, bid farewell to winter and welcome spring in the coming year. Creative masks and joyfulness rule the streets of the beautiful city for ten days. www.fasnik.com www.tz-samobor.hr Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings 3. 2., Dubrovnik FESTA SV. VLAHA I DAN GRADA DUBROVNIKA/ THE CELEBRATION OF ST. BLAISE AND THE DAY OF THE CITY OF DUBROVNIK Blagdan svoga zaπtitnika sv. Vlaha, DubrovËani slave veÊ viπe od tisuÊu godina, te na taj dan otvaraju vrata svoga jedinstvenoga grada, u kojemu vas oËekuju mnoga kulturna i zabavna dogaanja./The feast of St. Blaise has been celebrated by Dubrovnik’s residents for over a thousand years, and on that day, they open the doors of their unique city where you can expect to see many cultural and entertaining events. www.tzdubrovnik.hr

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SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 172 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED

176 NOVOSTI NEWS

178 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 181 FLOTA FLEET 183 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 185 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB ZAGREB AIRPORT 186 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 188 ADRESE ADDRESSES

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THE WAY WE’VE CUT TIME AT HEATHROW Enjoy faster check-in and seamless connections in our new stunning, state-of-the-art London hub. Then you’ll be free to dine and shop in style, or unwind in one of our four world-class lounges. Terminal 2 − The Queen’s Terminal Experience it at heathrowt2.staralliance.com

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Miles & More Popunite i pošaljite / Complete and send off

Pristupnica − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia ili na fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200 Enrolment − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia or by fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200 0HR01

Molimo da napišete samo jednu adresu velikim, štampanim slovima / Please state only one address in capital letters Ime / Titula / Oslovljavanje / First or given name Title Salutation g / Mr. Dr. Ga / Mrs. Prof. Ulica i broj, zgrada / Street and number, building

Poštanski broj / Postcode

Datum roenja (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of birth (dd/mm/yyyy)

Prezime / Family name

Poštanski pretinac / PO Box

Grad / Town

Država / Country

Odjel (nije obavezno) / Department (optional)

Molimo Vas da unesete naziv kompanije (nije obavezno) / Please enter name of company here (optional)

E-mail-adresa (Molimo Vas da popunite ovo polje) / E-mail address (Please enter your e-mail address and check/mark the box below to receive account information via the Miles & More online newsletter!) Telefon / Telephone

Broj mobitela / Mobile number

Molimo Vas da velikim štampanim slovima popunite polja podacima o svom trenutnom letu / Please fill in your current flight details in capital letters Broj karte, etix®, ETKT (npr. 220 3000000474) / Ticket number, etix®, ETKT (e.g. 220 3000000474)

Br. leta (npr. LH 180) / Flight No. (e.g. LH 180)

Datum odlaska (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of departure (dd/mm/yyyy)

Ruta (npr. Frankfurt−Paris) / Route (e.g. Frankfurt−Paris)

Osoban odabir naËina komunikacije* / Personal communication preferences* Æelim primati sljedeÊe i slažem se da se moji osobni podaci koriste za: / I would like to receive the following communication and agree to the usage of my personal data for communication: Miles & More Online Newsletter/ Miles & More Online Newsletter

Miles & More ponude posebno za Vas / Miles & More offers especially for you

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Informacije o proizvodima Lufthanse i ostalim Miles & More avio partnerima / Product information about Lufthansa and the Miles & More airline partners

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Podaci o Vašem Miles & More raËunu i Miles & More newsletter mogu jedino biti poslani elektroniËkom poštom. NeÊete ih primiti poštom; bilo kako bilo, svoj raËun milja u bilo koje vrijeme možete vidjeti na miles-and-more.com / Miles & More account information is only sent via the Miles & More online newsletter. There is no separate mailing.; however, you can view your mileage account anytime at miles-and-more.com.

Odabirem jezik za komunikaciju / Preferred correspondence language:

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Engleski / English

Ovisno o državi koja se prikazuje u Vašoj adresi, moguÊe je da Êete moÊi odabrati jezik od njih nekoliko dodatnih. Jezik korespondencije može varirati ovisno o mediju. Kako biste provjerili svoj raËun ili ažurirali svoj profil, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com/myprofile. / Based on the country shown in your address, additional languages may be available for you to choose from. The language of correspondence may vary depending on the medium. To check your account status or to update your profile, please visit miles-and-more.com/myprofile. Sudjelovanje u frequent flyer progamu Miles and More je podložno Pravilima i Uvjetima. Kako biste proËitali trenutna Pravila i Uvjete, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com. Registracija u Miles & More programu je besplatna. / Participation in the Miles & More frequent flyer program is subject to the Terms & Conditions. To read the current Terms & Conditions, please visit miles-and-more.com. Registration in the Miles & More program is free of charge. * Imate pravo bilo kad povuÊi svoj pristanak, djelomiËno ili u cijelosti, tako da ažurirate svoj Miles & More profil online ili da nazovete Miles & More Servisni Centar na broj: 072 220 220 ili +49-69-66 10 23 30 10. Vaši dodatni komentari, za koje ne postoji predvien prostor, neÊe biti uzeti u obzir. / You have the right to revoke your consent at any time, inwhole or in part, by updating your Miles & More profile online or by calling the Miles & More Service Center at +49 - 69 - 66 10 23 30 10. Unfortunately all supplementary notes can not be considered.

Datum / Date

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Jednostavno je prijaviti se za Ëlanstvo: • preko interneta na web stranici www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • poπtom • telefaksom na broj +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 • kod osoblja u zrakoplovu Bit Êe nam zadovoljstvo ubiljeæiti Vam milje za trenutaËni let kao i za bilo koji drugi let koji ste ostvarili u posljednjih 6 mjeseci s Croatia Airlinesom, kompanijom Lufthansa ili nekim drugim partnerom u programu. Molimo Vas da gore unesete podatke o trenutaËnom letu. Retroaktivno ubiljeæavanje milja za druge letove moæete zatraæiti na stranici www.miles-and-more.com. Molimo Vas da uvijek Ëuvate originalnu kartu za ulazak u zrakoplov (boarding pass) i kopiju putne karte dok Vam se milje ne ubiljeæe na raËun.

It’s so easy to register: • Online at www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • By fax +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200

• By post • With one of your flight attendants

We will be happy to credit your account with the miles for this flight and for any other flights taken in the last 6 months with Croatia Airlines, Lufthansa or another Miles & More partner. Enter your current flight above. To have the miles for the other flights credited to your account, go to www.miles-and-more.com. Please retain your original boarding card and passenger receipt (copy of your ticket) until the miles have been credited to your account.

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Klasa knjiæenja/ Booking class

Miles & More – veÊ sad poËnite prikupljati milje

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Miles & More – start collecting miles now

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»im se poËnete koristiti svojom privremenom karticom Miles & More, milje Êe Vam se biljeæiti na raËun. Molimo Vas da pri svakoj rezervaciji navedete broj svoje kartice Miles & More. Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. Milje za danaπnji let bit Êe Vam ubiljeæene na raËun ako na prednju stranu unesete sve potrebne podatke o letu.

Ime/First name

Miles will start landing in your account immediately after you start to use your temporary Miles & More Card. Please remember to state your personal Miles & More number every time you make a reservation. You will receive your proper Miles & More Card once you have collected one mile.

Prezime/Surname

We will credit the miles for your current flight to your account once you have provided all the details of the current flight on the front.

Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. We will send you your regular Miles & More Card as soon as you have earned one mile.

Miles & More

Kupujte eksluzivne proizvode u Lufthansa WorldShopu − moguÊa dostava u Hrvatsku! Otkrijte naπ πiroki asortiman zanimljivih proizvoda kao πto su putne torbe i kovËezi, dodatna oprema, elektroniËki ureaji i ostali nezaobilazni proizvodi za putovanje i kuÊu. Posjetite nas na www.worldshop.eu ili u naπim prodavaonicama u zraËnim lukama. Moæete plaÊati gotovinom ili kreditnim karticama te Miles & More nagradnim miljama, a moguÊe je i kombinirati ta dva naËina plaÊanja. Shop for exclusive products at Lufthansa WorldShop − available for delivery to Croatia! Discover our wide assortment of interesting products such as luggage, accessories, electronics, and other must-haves for on the move or at home. Visit us at www.worldshop.eu or in our airport shops. Available for purchase with cash or credit card, redeemable for Miles & More award miles, or a combination of both.

Osnove programa Miles & More

Introducing Miles & More

Miles & More najve Êi je program nagraivanja putnika u Europi i nudi Ëlanovima ra zliËite moguÊnosti prikupljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih par tnera u programu. Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija par tnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kar tica Miles & More.

Miles & More is the greatest frequent ﬂyer programme in Europe, offering its members numerous possibilites for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many at tractive privileges. Members collect miles by using the ser vices of many par tners in the programme. Miles are credited for ﬂights of all Star Alliance members and other airline par tners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car par tners or staying in participating hotels.

Zatra æite svoju Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditnu kar ticu! n 5 ku na = 1 mi lja − za sva kih 5 ku na potro πe nih preko ove kar tice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja

Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card! n 5 HRK = 1 mi le − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile CROATIA AIRLINES

173

Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda − jednostavno

Collect award miles ever ywhere − simply pay

plaÊajte svojom Diners Club kar ticom na bilo ko-

with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC

jemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji

of ﬁces in Croatia or abroad

i inozemstvu. n

Osvojite joπ viπe milja − koriπtenje ostalih pogod-

Collect ex tra award miles − by using other Diners

nosti Diners Cluba poput besplatnih online usluga,

Club beneﬁts, such as free online ser vices, internet

e-plaÊa nja ili trajnih naloga donosi vam dodatne

banking and e-paying, standing orders etc.

milje. n

2 kar tice − 1 raËun Miles & More − koristite li se

2 cre dit car ds − 1 Miles & More mem ber ship

istodobno privatnom i poslovnom kar ticom Diners

account − use your private and business card to col-

Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje

lect award miles on the same membership account.

zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More. Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card!

karticu!

Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA

Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia

Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business

Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu.

and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile

Potroπnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim

for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards

karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a

whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via compan-

za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko

ion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be

kartica u paru 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.

credited to your account.

Zatraæite svoju Croatia Airlines American Express

Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express

kreditnu kar ticu!

credit card!

4 kune = 1 nagradna milja − za svake 4 kune po-

4 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 4 HRK spent

troπene preko Premium kar tice biljeæi se 1 nagradna

via Premium card, you collect 1 award mile, and

milja, odnosno za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko

for every 5 HRK spent via Standard card you col-

Standard kar tice

lect 1 mile.

2500 milja dobrodoπlice − za nove osnovne Pre-

2.500 welcome miles − for new basic Premium

mium korisnike i 1250 milja dobrodoπlice za nove

card users and 1.250 welcome miles for new addi-

dodatne Premium korisnike

tional Premium card users.

1500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard

korisnike i 750 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Standard korisnike n

Dvostruke nagradne milje − za potroπnju u poslov-

1.500 welcome miles − for new basic Standard

card users and 750 welcome miles for new additional Standard card users. n

Earn double award miles − using the card to pay

nicama Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travel American

for travels at Croatia Airlines sales of ﬁces and PBZ

Expressa

Card Travel American Expressa.

UËlanjenje u Priority Pass bez naknade te pristup

Free Priority Pass enrollment- it enables you to

u viπe od 450 VIP salona u zraËnim lukama

access into more than 450 VIP airport lounges.

Ra zredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti

Tiers and beneﬁts

Koriπtenjem usluga par tnera u Miles & More progra-

By using the Miles & More par tners’ ser vices mem-

mu prikupljate nagradne milje koje zamjenjujete za

bers collect award miles, which are traded in for

nagrade i statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski

awards; and status miles, which determine a mem-

status, na temelju kojeg ostvarujete pogodnosti.

ber’s membership status and privileges.

Statu sne mi lje pri kup lja ju se re dovi tim letovi ma.

Status miles can be accrued on scheduled ﬂights.

Svaka tako ostvarena milja biljeæi se i kao statusna

Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status

i kao nagradna milja.

and an award mile.

Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalen-

With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar

darskoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller,

year members earn the Frequent Traveller status,

a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini

with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and

oËe kuje vas status Se nator. »lanovi koji prikupe

members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle

najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u ra zdoblju od

miles within two consecutive calendar years, earn

dvije uzastopne kalendarske godine, stje Ëu status

the HON Circle status.

HON Circle. 174

CROATIA AIRLINES

Pogodnosti statusa Fre quent Traveller

Frequent Traveller privileges

- Executive Bonus − 25 posto više milja

- Executive Bonus of 25 per cent more miles

- neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja

- Accrued award miles have no expiry date

statusa

- Waiting list priority

- prednost na listi Ëekanja

- Check-in at the Luf thansa Business Class counter

- prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog razreda

- Free baggage allowance of 40 kg depending on

- 40 kg prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i

the destination and the airline

zrakoplovnoj kompaniji

If piece concept is applicable 2 bags in total

Ako je rijeË o komadnom prijevozu prtljage, 2 komada

(Economy or Business) and 3 bags in the First

u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu, a 3 u prvom

Class

razredu putovanja Pogodnosti statusa Senator

Senator privileges

- Exe cutive Bonus − 25 posto više milja

- Executive Bonus of 25 per cent more miles

- neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za traja-

- Accrued award miles have no expiry date

nja statusa

- 50,000 miles in advance

- predujam od 50.000 milja

- Access to the Luf thansa Senator Lounge as well as

- uporaba Luf thansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold

to the Star Gold Lounges of Star Alliance par tners

Lounge par tnera u Star Allianceu

- High waiting list priority

- viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja

- First Class check-in

- prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog ra zreda

- Booking guarantee up to 48 hours before depar-

- osigurano mjesto na letu za rezer vacije do 48 sati u

ture in the highest booking class in Business and

najvišoj ekonomskoj i najvišoj poslovnoj klasi

Economy class

- dodatnih 20 kg ili dodatni komad prtljage bez na-

- Additional 20 kg baggage allowance or an ad-

plate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji

ditional bag depending on the destination and the

- komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonom-

airline

skom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu

- Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and

- dva e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja

4 in the First Class

(upgrade), te dva vauËera prilikom svake obnove

- 2 e- Upgrade Vouchers and two e-vouchers each

statusa.

time the status is renewed.

- Senator Premium Award

Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle

HON Circle privileges

- sve pogodnosti statusa Se nator

- All existing Senator privileges

- Exe cutive Bonus od 25 posto

- Executive bonus of 25 per cent

- predujam od 100.000 milja

- 100,000 miles in advance

- Status Se nator za supruænika ili par tnera, ovisno

- Senator status for your spouse or par tner depend-

o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji

ing on the airline

- šest e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putova-

- 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers and 6 every time the status

nja (upgrade) te šest prilikom zadržavanja statusa

is renewed

- dodatne pogodnosti koje nude par tneri programa

- Additional beneﬁts of fered by Miles & More par-

osiguravajuÊi jedinstveno iskustvo putovanja

tners, rounding off the travel experience

- komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonom-

- Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and

skom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu

4 in the First Class

Troπite milje

Spend miles

Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge

You can exchange collected award miles for awards

nagrade: nagradne karte, premjeπtaj u viπi razred puto-

prepared for you: award tickets, upgrades, various

vanja (upgrade), ra zliËite nagrade kojima se moæete

travel awards.

koristiti pri putovanju (hotelski smjeπtaj, unajmljiva-

Please ﬁnd detailed info at:

nje vozila).

www.miles-and-more.com

Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com

CROATIA AIRLINES

175

CROATIA AIRLINES NOVOSTI

CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS

NAJAVA NOVIH LINIJA U LJETNOM REDU LETENJA 2015.

Dana 29. oæujka sljedeÊe godine na snagu Êe stupiti ljetni red letenja, u kojem uvodimo dvije nove izravne linje. Dubrovnik Êe svakog ponedjeljka i petka biti povezan s Nicom od 10. travnja do 23. listopada 2015. godine. Na letu München − Rijeka, Croatia Airlines Êe utorkom, Ëetvrtkom i nedjeljom prometovati od 2. travnja do 11. listopada 2015. godine. ANNOUNCEMENT OF NEW LINES IN THE SUMMER FLIGHT SCHEDULE OF 2015

Two new direct lines will be introduced in the summer ﬂight schedule, which will take effect on the 29th of March of next year. Dubrovnik will be connected to Nice every Monday and Friday from 10th of April to 23rd of October 2015. Croatia Airlines will be operating its Munich − Rijeka ﬂight on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays from 2nd of April to 11th of October 2015. OBILJEÆAVANJE 25 GODINA CROATIA AIRLINESA U GRADSKOJ KAVANI

Na prigodnoj sveËanosti u zagrebaËkoj Gradskoj kavani 16. rujna 2014. godine obiljeæili smo 25. obljetnicu osnutka Croatia Airlinesa. SveËanosti su prisustvovali visoki predstavnici hrvatskoga politiËkog æivota, predsjednik Star Alliancea, predstavnici meunarodnih zrakoplovnih udruga i organizacija, mnogi poslovni partneri tvrtke iz zemlje i inozemstva, te zaposlenici kompanije na Ëelu s predsjednikom Uprave Kreπimirom KuËkom. U 25 godina postojanja Croatia Airlines izrastao je u zrakoplovnu tvrtku srednje veliËine, koju putnici prepoznaju po sigurnosti letenja, kvaliteti usluge i profesionalnom osoblju. Kao nacionalni avioprijevoznik tvrtka daje vaæan doprinos razvoju hrvatskog turizma. Od prvoga komercijalnog leta do danas, zrakoplovi Croatia Airlinesa obavili su 470.000 letova i prevezli viπe od 29,000.000 putnika. Od toga je viπe nego 20,000.000 putnika prevezeno na meunarodnim letovima, a oko 9,000.000 na letovima unutar Hrvatske. Ove sezone zrakoplovi Croatia Airlinesa izravno povezuju Republiku Hrvatsku s 32 europska odrediπta u 18 dræava, a u domaÊem prometu glavni grad Zagreb sa πest zraËnih luka (Split, Dubrovnik, Zadar, Pula, Osijek i Bol na BraËu). Flota Croatia Airlinesa sastoji se od dvanaest zrakoplova: Ëetiri Airbusa A319, dva Airbusa 320 i πest turboprop zrakoplova Dash 8-Q400. 176

CROATIA AIRLINES

Kreπimir KuËko, predsjednik Uprave Croatia Airlinesa (lijevo), prima dar od Heika Heiduscha iz Lufthanse Kreπimir KuËko, Croatia Airlines President & CEO (left) receiving a gift from Heiko Heidusch, Director Alliance & Cooperation Partners, Lufthansa

CELEBRATING THE 25 YEARS OF CROATIA AIRLINES AT THE CITY CAFÉ

At a special ceremony in the Zagreb City Café on the 16 th of September 2014, we marked the 25 th anniversar y of Croatia Airlines. The ceremony was attended by high representatives from Croatia’s political life, the president of Star Alliance, representatives of international aviation associations and organizations, many of the company’s business partners from home and abroad, as well as company employees, headed by CEO Kreπimir KuËko. In the 25 years of its existence, Croatia Airlines has grown into a mid-sized airline recognized by passengers by its fl ight safety, quality of service and professional staff. As the national air carrier, the company makes an important contribution to the development of Croatian tourism. Since its fi rst commercial fl ight until today, the aircraft of Croatia Airlines have performed 470,000 flights and transported more than 29,000.000 passengers. Of these, more than 20,000,000 passengers were carried on international fl ights, and approximately 9,000.000 on fl ights within Croatia. This season Croatia Airlines’ aircraft directly connect the Republic of Croatia to 32 European destinations in 18 countries, and the capital city of Zagreb to six airports (Split, Dubrovnik, Zadar, Pula, Osijek, and Bol on BraË) in domestic traffi c. The Croatia Airlines fl eet consists of twelve aircraft: four Airbus A319, two Airbus 320 and six turboprop Dash 8-Q400.

Član Uprave Zlatko ©irac, direktorica ﬁnancija i raËunovodstva Teodora Wenzler Brezak, tajnica Uprave Ana Marija JurkoviÊ i Kreπimir KuËko, predsjednik Uprave Zlatko ©irac, a member of the Board & COO, Teodora Wenzler Brezak, Director of Finance and Accounting; Ana Marija JurkoviÊ, Company Secretary, and Kreπimir KuËko, President & CEO

Na proslavi su bili i predstavnici hrvatske Vlade na Ëelu s premijerom Zoranom MilanoviÊem (treÊi slijeva) Representatives of the Croatian Government, headed by Prime Minister Zoran MilanoviÊ attended the ceremony

CROATIA AIRLINES

177

RU»NA PRTLJAGA

Sluπalice za suzbijanje buke Digitalni audio/MP3 ureaj n ElektroniËke igre n e-ËitaË n Prijenosna/Notebook raËunala n Prijenosni DVD/CD ureaj n Bluetooth ureaji n Kamere n Medicinski ureaji n ElektriËni brijaÊi aparat n

Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike ekonomskog razreda: 1 komad n maksimalna teæina 8 kg n zbroj dimenzija do 115 cm (55x40x20) Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike poslovnog razreda: 2 komada n maksimalna teæina 8 kg po komadu n zbroj dimenzija maksimalno 115 cm (55x40x20) ili 57x54x15cm (etui za odijela) Radi ograniËenog spremiπnog prostora u putniËkoj kabini te kada je veÊa popunjenost zrakoplova, i dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga bit Êe Ëekirana i spremljena u prtljaæni prostor. UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST PO©TOVANI PUTNICI! Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima. Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije. UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi. RED SJEDENJA

Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima. PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja. Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta. ELEKTRONIČKI URE AJI U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI Upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja dopuπtena je iskljuËivo u zrakoplovnom radu, teæe i veÊe ureaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je upaljen znak obveznog vezivanja. Popis dopuπtenih elektroniËkih naprava: n Mobilni/Smart telefoni n Tablet raËunala

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva. USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U naπim zrakoplovima posluæujemo hranu i napitke bez naplate. U poslovnom razredu na svim letovima usluga ukljuËuje birana hrvatska jela, alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te izbor domaÊega i stranog tiska. U ekonomskom razredu usluga ovisi o vrsti i duljini leta. Na domaÊim letovima posluæuje se samo voda, a na meunarodnim letovima usluga se sastoji od snacka i ponude piÊa. Na veoma kratkim letovima putnicima nudimo samo vodu, a na duljim letovima u ponudi su alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te topli napitci. IskljuËivo u poslovnom razredu moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed (vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed). Putnicima nije dopuπteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Alkoholiziranim putnicima ne posluæuju se alkoholna piÊa. Puπenje je zabranjeno tijekom boravka u zrakoplovu. Toaleti su opremljeni detektorima dima. .

Faze leta u kojima je dopuštena upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo.

Faze leta

Mobilni/ Smart telefoni, Tablet

Prijenosno Sluπalice za raËunalo suzbijanje buke

Funkcija teksta/razgovora

Ukrcavanje

Kaπnjenje u polasku

Taxiranje za polijetanje

DA*

Polijetanje

DA*

Tijekom leta

Spuπtanje

DA*

Slijetanje

DA*

Taksiranje

DA*

*U navedenim fazama nije dopuπteno rabiti sluπalice prikljuËene na audio/MP3 ureaje 178

CROATIA AIRLINES

ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our ﬁrst and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests. With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services. Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inﬂight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole ﬂight. Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the ﬂight.

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking ﬂights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.

Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing. HAND BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE Economy Class passengers: 1 piece n max. weight 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) Business Class passengers: 2 pieces n max. weight per piece 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) or 57x54x15cm if it is a foldable garment bag Due to a limited storage space and when a flight is fully booked even approved carry-on baggage will be checked-in and stowed in cargo compartments. SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s

e-Readers Laptop/Notebook computers n Portable DVD/CD player n Bluetooth devices n Personal cameras n Assistive medical devices n Electric shaver n

RESTRICTED ITEMS The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage. Such items are: explosives, ﬂammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons, ﬁrearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers. IN-FLIGHT SERVICES

Please read the instructions below, important for your safety and comfort during the ﬂight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your ﬂight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

SEAT ASSIGNMENT

PERSONAL ELECTRONIC DEVICES Electronic devices may only be used if they are in ﬂight mode. Bulky personal electronic devices must be securely stowed whenever the seat belt sign is turned on. List of approved personal electronic devices: n Mobile/Smart phones n Tablet computers n Noise-cancelling headphones n Digital audio/MP3 player n Electronic games

We serve food and beverages free of charge in our aircraft. In business class on all flights the services include a choice of Croatian foods, alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, as well as a choice of domestic and foreign print media. Our services in economy class depend on the type and length of the flight. On domestic flights we serve only water, and on international flights our services include snacks and an offer of beverages. On very short flights our passengers are offered only water, and on longer flights they are offered alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages as well as hot drinks. In business class only you can order a special meal when purchasing your tickets, however, this must be done at least 24 hours ahead (vegetarian, Muslim, diet, but kosher meals must be ordered 48 hours ahead). Passengers are not allowed to consume their own alcoholic beverages. Passengers that are considered under the influence of alcohol are not served alcoholic beverages. smoking is forbidden in the aircraft. The toilets are equipped with smoke detectors. ■

Use of electronic devices during different ﬂight phases Flight phase

Hand Held PEDs (i.e. smart phones and tablets)

Larger PEDs (i.e. Laptops and notebooks)

Noisecancelling Headphones

Text and phone functions

Boarding

YES

Extended Ground Delay

YES

Taxi-out for Take-off

YES

YES*

Take-off

YES

YES*

Cruise

YES

Descent

YES

YES*

Landing

YES

YES*

Taxi to Stand

YES

YES*

YES

*During critical phases of ﬂight headphones must not be plugged to audio/MP3 players. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Dubrovnik Card

Special tourist discount card Available at all Tourist Information Ofﬁces, Cultural Institutions, Hotels & Travel Agencies

DailyCard

3-dayCard

WeeklyCard

ONLY 150,00 kn

ONLY 200,00 kn

ONLY 250,00 kn

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions and 24 h public transport rides

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions and 10 public transport rides

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions and 20 public transport rides

No charge for children up to 12 years old

www.dubrovnikcard.com Includes free entrance to City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin DræiÊ, Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, DulËiÊ-Masle-Pulitika Gallery and discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car, souvenir shops... 180

CROATIA AIRLINES

FLOTA

FLEET Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

174

144

Airbus 320-200 Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Airbus 319-100 Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Dash 8-Q400 Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking. CROATIA AIRLINES

181

ATTENTION!

SAME PRICES. GREATER DEALS.

NEW BIGGER QUANTITIES FOR EU-TRAVELLERS.

Split

182

CROATIA AIRLINES

Airport

S A M E P R I C E S . G R E AT E R D E A L S .

:WSP[ (PYWVY[ *LZ[H KY - ;\KTHUH 2HZ[LSH ÷[HMPSPǅ e-mail: trgovina@split-airport.hr · Tel.: + 385 21 20 35 55 · Fax.: + 385 21 20 34 22 · www.split-airport.hr

A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

•

TRONDHEIM

USA NEW YORK WASHINGTON

BERGEN

St. Petersburg STAVANGER

Aberdeen Edinburg Belfast Dublin

Manchester

VILNIUS GDANSK

Kassel DUSSELDORF

POZNAN

Chisinau Lyon

Venice

Turin

Porto

Genoa Madrid

Rijeka

OSIJEK Belgrade Bucharest

BraË

Sofia

Barcelona

Podgorica Bari Tirana

Palermo Catania

Athens

Beirut Damascus Tel Aviv Jerusalem Amman Q linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines’ services

Q u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama

in cooperation with partner airline

Partneri / Partners: Air France

Alitalia

Brussels Airlines

KLM

United Airlines CROATIA AIRLINES

183

184

CROATIA AIRLINES

ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

ZAGREB AIRPORT

4 International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike

Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7

Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima

Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21

P C

Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A”

Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”

i S B

Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte

TAKSI BUS

CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila

Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica

Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica

Coffee Bar Kavana

Customs Control Carinska kontrola

Bar

Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina

Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks) Baggage Prtljaga

Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije

Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

Restaurant Faust VranËi Ê

Newstand Novinarnica

Panoramic View Panoramski pogled

Passport Control Kontrola putovnica

Shops Prodavaonice

i i

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.

5.00 9.00 13.30 17.30

U DUBROVNIKU autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 75 minuta prije leta. Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova.

ZAGREB − Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 8.00 8.30 9.00 9.30 10.30 11.30 12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30 14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30 16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30 18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30 20.00

In DUBROVNIK airport buses leave 90 minutes before the ﬂight, and in ZADAR 75 minutes before the ﬂight. The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing. Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) − Zagreb (zraËna luka) − Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) − Rijeka − Polazak u 15.30 sati.

Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) − Zagreb Airport − Departure at 5.00. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport − Rijeka − Departure at 15.30.

Flight Information Informacije o letovima Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije

ZAGREB − Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb: Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb: 5.30 10.00 14.00 18.00

6.00 10.30 14.30 18.30

6.30 11.00 15.00 19.00

7.00 11.30 15.30 19.30

7.30 12.00 16.00 20.00

8.00 12.30 16.30

8.30 13.00 17.00

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, 098 472-539, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn. The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas. Autobusi iz ZAGREBA polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova. Bus departures in ZAGREB are an hour and a half prior for domestic ﬂights and two hours prior for international ﬂights.

CROATIA AIRLINES

185

WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL?

Irena Stopfer

Dragi putnici!

U doticajima s drugim ljudima na putovanjima spoznajem kako smo svi jednaki, a tako razliËiti. Interacting with other people on my travels makes me understand just how much we are all the same and yet so different.

Hvala vam na lijepim fotografijama kojima nam doËaravate ljepote s vaπih putovanja. Pred nama je zima, a neka vam blagdansko raspoloæenje i zimske radosti budu nadahnuÊe za nastajanje novih prekrasnih uradaka. ©aljite nam svoje fotografije uz jednu reËenicu u kojoj objaπnjavate zaπto volite putovati i sudjelujte u naπem nagradnom natjeËaju. Pobjednika Êemo nagraditi s dvije povratne aviokarte po izboru za neko od odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa, a dva Êe dobitnika primiti poklon-pakete. Fotografiju autorice Irene Stopfer odabrali smo kao najbolju u ovome broju te je nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa. Promidæbenim poklon-paketom nagradit Êemo Ines Paun i Alinu Grbac. I dalje vas pozivamo da nam πaljete vaπe fotografije s neobiËnih i zanimljivih mjesta s putovanja, jer i u iduÊem broju oËekuju vas vrijedne nagrade. Posjetite naπu web stranicu www.croatiaairlines. hr (Ponude/Nagradne igre i natjeËaji), pogledajte uvjete nagradnog natjeËaja i sudjelujte! Dear passengers!

Ines Paun

Thank you for the wonderful photographs you have been sending us of your travels. Winter is just ahead and we are sure that the holiday spirit and the joys of the season will inspire you to take new beautiful photographs. Send us your photos accompanied by a caption which explains why you like travelling and why you have decided to take part in the photo contest. We will award the ﬁrst prize winner with two round-trip tickets on Croatia Airlines to a destination of your choice, while the second and third place winners will receive promotional packages. We have selected Irena Stopfer for having the best photo in this issue; she is the winner of two Croatia Airlines round-trip tickets. Ines Paun and Alina Grbac have won our promotional packages. We would like to invite you to continue sending us your photographs of unusual and interesting travel destinations because valuable awards await you in the next issue, too. Visit our web page at www.croatiaairlines.hr (Offers/Contests and competitions), see the conditions, and take part in the contest!

Doæivljaj plivanja uz kitopsine, najveÊe æivuÊe ribe na svijetu, moj je najnoviji razlog zaπto volim putovati. Swimming with whale sharks, the largest living ﬁsh in the world, is my latest reason for loving to travel.

186

CROATIA AIRLINES

Alina Grbac

Putovanja volim jer uvijek steknem nova pozitivna iskustva, kao i na posljednjem na koje smo otiπli udvoje, a vratili se utroje! I love travelling because I always gain new positive experiences such as on my last trip, which started off with just two of us and ended with three of us.

THE WAY TO TURN YOUR BUSINESS TRAVEL INTO MORE PLACES TO UNWIND Wherever your business takes you, your well-earned miles or points can take you to more holiday destinations worldwide than any other airline alliance. Discover a world of destinations at staralliance.com

CROATIA AIRLINES

187

ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 6160 153 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/uprava@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 072-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 18:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 15:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept. Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 072 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Brojevi telefonskog check-ina / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Bruxelles 1930 Zaventem/Brussels Airport Box 31 Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik ZraËna luka/Airport Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt 60 313 Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London Concorde North Wing, Gatwick Airport Room 332, West Sussex RH6 0DW Tel. (+44-20) 8563-0022, Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615 Airport Heathrow, Terminal 1, Zone H Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-4683 Fax (+44-20) 8754-7377 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr München 85 356 München Flughafen/Airport Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Ebene 4. Büro 4.1319 Tel. (+49-89) 975-92-730 Fax (+49-89) 975-92-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr

180

CROATIA AIRLINES

ADDRESSES Paris 95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Roissypôle Le Dôme, Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-40-00 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-55-11 parto@croatiaairlines.hr Pula ZraËna luka/Airport Pula Valtursko polje 210, 52 100 Ližnjan Tel. (+385-52) 218-909, 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka 51 000 Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5 Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma 00054 Fiumicino Aeroporto/Airport Leonardo da Vinci Torre Ufﬁci 2, room 518 Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo 71 000 Sarajevo ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skopje 1000 Skopje ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 3296-967, 3296-969 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split 21 000 Split ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar 23 000 Zadar ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb 10 000 Zagreb Trg Nikole Š, Zrinskog 17 Tel. (+385-1) 481--96-33 Fax (+385-1) 481-96-32 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Meunarodna zraËna luka Zagreb/ Zagreb International Airport Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 62-65-930 Zürich Hardstrasse 2, 8004 Zürich Tel. (+41-44) 2610-840 Fax (+41-44) 2610-883 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe »eπka CK Blue Sky Travel Opletalova 57, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. +420 222 222 235 Fax +420 222 220 237 czech@croatiaairlines.hr GrËka / Greece Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str., 105 57 Athens Tel. +30 210 32 17 679, 32 17 750 Fax +30 210 32 49 152 greece@croatiaairlines.hr

Kosovo Airtour Bill Clinton 32, 10031 Prishtina Tel. +381 38 233 833 Fax +381 38 245 845 kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr Airtour Prishtina International Airport Tel. +381 38 594 111 Fax +381 38 594 222 kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr Portugal APG - Portugal Viela da Beloura, nº7 − Quinta da Beloura 2710 - 693 Sintra Tel. +351 219 100 054 Fax +351 219 100 059 portugal@croatiaairlines.hr SlovaËka CK Blue Sky Travel Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel./fax +421 2 5262 2375 slovakia@croatiaairlines.hr Španjolska / Spain Global Representacion Turistica / GRT c/Valencia, 266, 4, 1, 08007 Barcelona Tel. +34 934 875 775 Fax +34 934 880 121 spain@croatiaairlines.hr Turska ZENITH Services Ordu Caddesi, No. 12/1, Laleli Fatih 34134 Istanbul Tel. +90 212 513 2667, gsm +90 533 738 8470 Fax +90 212 512 4234 turkey@croatiaairlines.hr ZENITH Services Istanbul Ataturk Airport Tel. +90 212 465 5023 Fax +90 212 465 4092 turkey@croatiaairlines.hr Bliski istok Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda Street, Migdalor blgd. 12th ﬂoor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. +972 3 516 7181, 516 7140 Fax +972 3 516 7174 israel@croatiaairlines.hr Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. +61 3 9699-9355, Fax +61 3 9699-9388 lidia@skyair.biz Novi Zeland / New Zealand CTtravel Limited NZ PO Box 104-056, Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Rd. Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. +64 9 837 9897 Fax +64 9 837 9898 croatiaairlines@cttravel.co.nz Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo, 105-0001 Japan Tel. +81 3 3593 6740 Fax +81 3 3593 6534 asipaxtyo@airsystem.jp Koreja / Korea Bohram Air Services 7F, Donghwa Bldg, 58-7 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: +82 2 754 6336 Fax: +82 2 779 8795 customersupport@croatiaairlines.co.kr Tajvan, Kina, Hong Kong / Taiwan, China, Hong Kong Paciﬁc Express Company Limited 8F, No 137, Nanking E. Road Sec. 2, Taipei, Taiwan, R.O.C. Tel: +886 2 2515 2371 Fax: +886 2 2515 3463 pcpnexpr@ms23.hinet.net

Elegant luxury for the ultimate Dubrovnik holiday Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel 5*