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Iconic Hotel in the Heart of Zagreb Experience tradition and elegance of the hotel located in the centre of Zagreb. Impressive venues, quality service and the highest accommodation standards stand at your disposal. Visit Zagreb, a new star on Europe’s tourist map, and discover this vibrant capital with us. Book your stay at: reservations@sheratonzagreb.com or dial +385 1 455 3535
Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com
Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Krešimir KuËko
Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof
Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ∆ulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ
Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ
Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ
Rukovoditeljica marketinga/ Head of Marketing Zlata PrpiÊ
Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek
Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o. Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr
Promocija/Promotion
Dobro došli na još jedan od naših zajedničkih letova. Ljeti se sve doima opuštenije pa se i mi lakše odlučujemo na putovanje do nekoga privlačnoga grada ili zemlje u koju smo dugo sanjali otići. Najtoplije doba godine uvijek nam nudi i obilje zanimljivih događaja, a ovoga ljeta dva su nezaobilazna - Europsko nogometno prvenstvo te Olimpijske igre. Ne sumnjamo da ćete ih barem djelomično pratiti u nekome od odredišta koje ste odabrali za svoj godišnji odmor, a možda ćete se zaputiti baš do Pariza ili Rio de Janeira. Ako ste odabrali naš zrakoplov za svoj put, ili za dio puta do vaše željene destinacije, to nas iskreno raduje. Ovog ljeta nudimo vam i četiri nova odredišta - Lisabon, Sankt Peterburg, Prag i Milano. Sve su to prelijepi gradovi koji mame da ih posjetimo. U prošlom broju našega časopisa pisali smo o kulturnoj baštini i ljepotama Milana, a sada vam predstavljamo Lisabon, uvijek atraktivan grad koji jednako dinamično živi danju kao i u vrućim ljetnim noćima. Razumljivo, u ovom broju našega časopisa ne možemo preskočiti zanimljivosti vezane uz Olimpijske igre. Razgovarali smo s briljantnom hrvatskom atletičarkom, ali i našom putnicom, Sandrom Perković, vrhunskom sportašicom iz čijih ruku disk leti do neslućenih daljina. Kao uvijek, predstavljamo vam i različite ljepote naše zemlje, od kojih su neke mnogima još i danas malo poznate ili neotkrivene. Pozivamo vas da posjetite mali otok Vrnik, u kanalu koji razdvaja Korčulu od izduženoga pelješkog poluotoka te da istražite njegove osobitosti i ljepote. Pišemo i o Lastovu te o njegovom fascinantnom podmorju, a ponosni smo i što je grad Zadar, do kojega vas vode i naši zrakoplovi, portal European Best Destinations proglasio najboljim turističkim odredištem za 2015. godinu. Aktualni podaci pokazuju da sve više putnika bira našu kompaniju za put do svojih odredišta. Zahvaljujemo vam na tome i već se unaprijed radujemo svakome budućem zajedničkom letu. Želim vam ugodne trenutke, ma kamo letjeli!
Dear passengers,
D. FabijaniÊ
A. GrubeliÊ - Zadar
Poπtovani putnici!
We have no doubts that, at least to a certain extent, you will be involved in these events during your vacation, or maybe you will even decide to travel to Paris or Rio de Janeiro to see them first-hand. We are delighted you have chosen our aircraft for your travels, at least in part, to your final destination. This summer, we are offering four new destinations Lisbon, St. Petersburg, Prague and Milan. These are all amazing cities, enticing us to visit them. In the last issue of our magazine, we wrote about the cultural heritage and the beauty of Milan, and now we are presenting Lisbon, an always attractive city where life is equally dynamic during the day as in the hot summer nights. Understandably, in this issue of our magazine, we could not disregard some interesting facts related to the Olympic Games. We talked with brilliant Croatian athlete and our passenger, Sandra Perković; from the hand of this top athlete, the discus flies an incredible distance. As always, we write about the various beauties of our country, some of which are still poorly-known or completely undiscovered. We invite you to visit the small island of Vrnik, located in the channel that separates Korčula from the elongated Pelješac peninsula, and explore its wonders and beauty. We also write about Lastovo and its fascinating underwater world. We are proud that the city of Zadar, to which you can fly via Croatia Airlines, has been declared as the best tourist destination in 2015, by the European Best Destinations portal. Current data show that an increasing number of travellers choose our company for their travels. We sincerely thank you for that and are already looking forward to welcoming you on our flights in the future. I wish you many pleasant moments, wherever you decide to fly!
Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26 Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec
ISSN 1330-6278
Welcome to another one of our many flights together. In summer, everything seems more relaxed and it is easier for us to decide to travel to some attractive city or country that we had long dreamed of visiting. The warmest time of year always offers plenty of interesting events, and this summer, there are two which are unavoidable - the European Football Championship and the Olympic Games.
Vaš, Sincerely yours,
Krešimir KuËko Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO
SADRÆAJ CONTENTS
6 Razgovor: Sandra Perković Let do neslućenih daljina Njezin disk daleko leti. Ona pobjeđuje - na natjecanjima Dijamantne lige, svjetskim prvenstvima, olimpijskim igrama. A tek joj je 26 godina! Interview: Sandra Perković A Flight of Incredible Distances Her discus flies far. She has won Diamond League competitions, world championships and Olympic Game events. And she is only 26 years old! 16 Prirodne ljepote Lastovo, šareni podmorski vrt Podmorje Lastova u svojim bistrim dubinama čuva ekološke sustave, koji su među najočuvanijima na Jadranu. Natural Beauties A Colorful Underwater Garden The crystal-clear depths of Lastovo’s seabed are the place of eco-systems, which are among the most well-preserved in the Adriatic Sea
Ljeto/Summer 2016 www.croatiaairlines.com
54 Obala Zadar je najbolji! Ugledni belgijski portal European Best Destinations proglasio je Zadar najboljim europskim odredištem za 2015. godinu. Coast Zadar is the Best! The renowned Belgian online portal, European Best Destinations, proclaimed Zadar as the Best European Tourist Destination in 2015.
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30 Otoci Vrnik, otok kamenog blaga Darivanjem više od tisuću otoka, hridi i grebena duž njezine obale, priroda je izrazila svu svoju velikodušnost prema Hrvatskoj. Vrnik je jedan od njih. Islands Vrnik - A Treasure Island of Stone Spread over a thousand islands, riffs and rocks along its coast, Mother Nature showed all its generosity to Croatia. Vrnik is among them.
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SADRÆAJ CONTENTS
72 Gastronomija Samobor gastrograd I kad gastroturizam nije bio in, Samobor, gradić nedaleko od Zagreba, dočekivao je gostoljubivim stolom i domaćim jelima i pićima, izletištima i šetalištima, toplicama i kupalištima. Gastronomy Samobor - Gastro-town Even when gastro tourism was not quite in, Samobor, a town in the vicinity of Zagreb, always greeted its guests with tables full of homemade dishes and drinks at its numerous restaurants, promenades and spas.
81 Kontinentalna Hrvatska Vitezovi Zelingradski Sedmu godinu zaredom Vitezovi zelingradski stoluju u svome gradu, koji postaje prava turistička atrakcija i turisti mogu vidjeti doista pravi srednjovjekovni grad. Inland Croatia The Knights of Zelingrad For the seventh year in a row, the Knights of Zelingrad dwell in their city, which then becomes a true tourist attraction.
86 Naša odredišta Lisabon, najegzotičnija i najzapadnija europska prijestolnica Posjetite Lisabon, privlačan grad, dinamičan i bučan, koji živi u nekom svom ritmu, neopterećen svojim izgledom. Our Destinations Lisbon, the most exotic and westernmost European capital Visit Lisbon, an attractive city, dynamic and noisy, living its own rhythm, unburdened by the way it looks.
110 Moda Tradicija nekrojenog ruha Tu tradiciju Hrvati su prenijeli iz praslavenske postojbine. Dragocjeni tradicionalni elementi transformiraju se i dorađuju u traganju za suvremenošću i tako nastaje fascinantna i neobična odjeća. Fashion A Tradition of Untailored Attire Croatians have brought this tradition from their old Slavic land. Precious traditional elements are transformed as well as processes in the quest for modernity; thus creating fascinating and unusual attire.
Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak This is your personal copy
148 Događanja Jazz, kultura i turizam na rovinjski način Tri festivalska vikenda srpnju u Rovinju omogućuju posjetiocima vidjeti neka od najboljih imena suvremene jazz-scene. Events Jazz, Culture and Tourism - the Rovinj Way Three festival weekends in Rovinj in July enable visitors to enjoy performances by some of the greatest names on the contemporary scene.
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122 Ulična umjetnosti Grad kao slikarsko platno Sivilo svake metropole vješto razbijaju veličanstveni potezi street-art umjetnika. Njihova je pozornica grad, a publika apsolutno svaki prolaznik. Street Art The city as an artist’s canvas The greyness of any capital is broken up by magnificent pieces of art in the streets by street artists. Their stage is the city, and the audience every single passer-by.
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Dubrovnik, Stradun - Placa 1, Hrvatska (Franchisee Max Mara) MAXMARA.COM
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RAZGOVOR INTERVIEW
Piπe/By Mato Pejić Fotografije/Photos Cropix
Olimpijske igre Rio 2016! Oko 10.500 sportaša iz 205 zemalja natječe se u 33 sporta u Rio de Janeiru. Među njima i najbolji hrvatski sportaši. A ona od koje se najviše očekuje, olimpijska je pobjednica iz Londona Sandra Perković! Disk ovu sezonu već leti daleko, Sandra pobjeđuje na natjecanjima Dijamantne lige, baš kao što priznanja bere i izvan bacališta, primjerice u glavnom gradu Republike Hrvatske, gdje su je proglasili Zagrepčankom godine. The Olympic Games, Rio 2016! About 10,500 athletes from 205 countries will be competing in 33 sports in Rio de Janeiro. The best Croatian athletes will be amongst them. The one that everybody expects the most from is 2012 Olympic champion - Sandra Perković! This season her discus is already reaching a great distance. Sandra is winning Diamond League competitions, and has also received an acknowledgement outside the sports arena - in Croatia’s capital, Zagreb, where she has been declared Citizen of the Year! CROATIA AIRLINES
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ok običan svijet jedva čeka ljeto da pođe na odmor, ona, nema sumnje, jedva čeka kolovoz, ali ne odmora radi. Dok drugi s nestrpljenjem čekaju sunce i more, ona s nestrpljenjem čeka onaj tren kada će ugaziti na atletsku stazu Olimpijskog stadiona u Riju, uzeti disk u ruke, ući u krug za bacanje i baciti ga daleko, najdalje što se može. Olimpijske igre i olimpijska pobjednica, istinska kraljica kraljice sportova, Sandra Perković - olimpijska, svjetska i trostruka europska prvakinja u bacanju diska. A tek joj je 26 godina! U Rio de Janeiro leti ne bi li obranila olimpijsko zlato osvojeno prije četiri godine u Londonu. Sve će oči biti uprte u Vas, jer ako se na išta vrijedi kladiti, onda se vrijedi kladiti na to da ćete, baš kao i uvijek, dati sve od sebe, svoj maksimum. A maksimum, po pravilu, kad ste Vi posrijedi, znači medalju. - Istina je da jedva čekam kolovoz i početak Olimpijskih Igara u Riju. To je nešto za što se ne sprema samo jednu godinu, ili četiri godine, nego se cijeli život pripremate i radite za taj svoj san. Vrteći unatrag film iz Londona, Olimpijske su igre za mene ostale u pamćenju u najboljem svjetlu. Velika manifestacija, puno ljudi, cijeli svijet koji živi samo sport. Imam čast braniti zlato iz Londona i mogu reći da osjećam lagani pritisak, ali i veliki motiv da ondje baš budem najbolja kao nikada do sada. Na svakom natjecanju dajem maksimum maksimuma, ali osobit je osjećaj ući u krug pod hrvatskim grbom i znati da se borite za sve nas Hrvate. U meni se tad pojavljuje osobita moć i ponos koji me gura naprijed. Naučili ste navijače na uspjehe, niz je medalja impresivan, a godina imate taman toliko da im, bude li zdravlja, priuštite još veselja. Jesu li ta velika očekivanje teret ili poticaj? Kako se 8
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nosite sa stresom što ga donose velika natjecanja? - Kao što sam spomenula, uvijek osjećam lagani pritisak, ali pozitivan pritisak. Tada glava i tijelo rade kao jedno i imaju jedan cilj; biti najbolji baš kada se to od mene najviše očekuje. Za svako veliko natjecanje tempiram formu, potrudim se da baš ondje dam sve od sebe, budem najbolja i učinim nas sve ponosnima. Obožavam velika natjecanja i pune stadione. Znam da tad moji vjerni navijači navijaju za mene iz petnih žila. Sezonu ste otvorili maestralno, hicem iz Splita dugim 70.59 metara. Čini li Vam se, možda, da je ovo ta godina kad biste mogli napasti i onaj nestvarno velik svjetski rekord iz 1988. godine istočnonjemačke atletičarke Gabriele Reinsch? - Mislim da je sada prerano govoriti o svjetskom rekordu, jer to je rekord koji stoji već 28 godina i prema njemu treba imati veliki respekt. Želja mi je jednoga se dana približiti tome rekordu, ili ga, u najboljem slučaju, prebaciti. To je jedan od ciljeva koje želim ispuniti u svojoj karijeri. Hitac iz Splita od 70.59 metara naviješta da bi ova sezona za mene mogla biti sezona iz snova. Nikada bolje nisam otvorila sezonu te se nadam, ako nastavim u ovom smjeru, da bi moj disk ove godine mogao odletjeti na daljine na kojima do sada nije bio. Vratimo se na početak. Nije, naime, baš uobičajeno da se djevojčice počnu baviti bacačkim atletskim disciplinama. Što je prevagnulo? Kako Vas je Vaš trener, na žalost preminuli Ivan Ivančić, natjerao na to? - Atletikom sam se počela baviti u drugom razredu osnovne škole, programom Atletika u školama. Uz to sam trenirala odbojku i košarku, ali ljubav prema individualnom sportu bila je jača od svega pa sam odabrala atletiku, kraljicu sportova. Probala sam sve discipli-
ne, u početku sam trčala i skakala udalj, ali poslije sam se opredijelila za bacanja. Kada sam uzela disk u ruke, bila je to ljubav na prvi pogled. Moj najdraži Ivančić nije me imao potrebe tjerati, jer od početka moje karijere predvidio je moje uspjehe. Na prvom treningu bacila sam disk 30 metara, a on je rekao da ću već na ljeto bacati 50 metara daleko. Isprva mu nisam povjerovala, ali kada sam to uistinu ostvarila, više nije bilo sumnje, metri su išli samo gore. Na žalost, Ivančića više nema, ali zauvijek će biti u našim srcima, jer on je moju ljubav prema sportu okrunio prvim hrvatskim ženskim zlatom na Ljetnim olimpijskim igrama. Nema dobrog rezultata bez predanog treninga. Jeste li ikad poželjeli ostaviti disk jer činilo Vam se da Vaše vršnjakinje žive lakše, bezbrižnije? Koji je bio onaj prijelomni trenutak kada ste, ako ne znali ono makar naslutili, da ste veliki talent i da je pred Vama velika karijera? - Iskreno ću Vam reći, nikada nisam pomislila ostaviti se sporta, jer sport je moj način života. Još u vrtiću išla sam u sportsku grupu. Uvijek sam, preko svih sportova koje sam prolazila, dobivala samo najbolje kritike od svojih trenera, a kada sam se počela ozbiljno baviti atletikom, znala sam da ću napraviti nešto veliko. Mislim da sam se rodila s talentom za bacanje diska, a napornim radom, voljom i trudom postigla sam ovo što sada jesam. Od svih osvojenih medalja, od svih daljina do kojih ste dobacili disk, koja Vam je titula, koji Vam je hitac osobito drag i zašto? Ili će se taj hitac tek dogoditi? - Najdraža titula definitivno mi je titula olimpijske pobjednice, a najdraži mi je hitac s europskog prvenstva iz Züricha dug 71.08 metara. Želja mi je da se najdraža titula i najvažniji hitac sjedine i dogode baš u Riju. Vaš trener Edis Elkasović i Vaš je životni partner. Je li ponekad teško odvojiti ljubav od posla? Kako Vam to uspijeva? - Od prvog dana uspijevamo oboje. Reći ću Vam samo jedno, mene je moja majka odmalena učila da svoj posao radim s ljubavlju, I eto, poslušala sam je, jer nema bolje veze od one kada zajednički stvaramo i ostvarujemo svoje snove, bodrimo i poštujemo jedno drugoga. Mislim da smo Edis i ja dobitna kombinacija za ovo što radimo. Usudio bih se reći kako ste, kad su ženske bacačke atletske discipline posrijedi, razbili još poneku predrasudu. U onom krugu za bacanje možda i jeste zvijer, ali izvan stadiona često pokazujete suštu eleganciju. Tenisica ili štikla, Vama je svejedno. - Hvala na komplimentu. Uživam u svojem tijelu, nije bitno jesu li tenisice ili štikle, volim
kada se dobro osjećam, volim se urediti, jer prije svega žena sam. Veoma mi je važno da imam život i izvan sporta. Mislim da je to za sportaše osobito važno, da maknu misli s teških i jakih treninga, da se opuste i uživaju i u nečemu drugome. Kakvi su odnosi u bacačkom svijetu? Stigne li se na svim tim turnirima ostvariti kakvo prijateljstvo među sportašima, atletičarkama i atletičarima? - Među normalnim ljudima uvijek ima prijateljstva. Naše druženje, što se međunarodne scene tiče, počinje u svibnju i završava u listopadu, što je gotovo pola godine. Međusobno dijelimo i lijepe i loše životne trenutke. Imam krug dragih bacača i bacačica te drugih sportaša koje jedva čekam ponovno vidjeti i družiti se s njima. Uvijek je ljepše raditi u pozitivnoj atmosferi nego negativnoj. Odnedavno ste zastupnica u Hrvatskom saboru. Za to ste se kao vrhunska sportašica izborili na parlamentarnim izborima. Za što ćete se ponajviše zalagati? - Vrijeme je da mladi pokažu što znaju i izbore se za svoja prava. Želim im pokazati da se kontinuiranim radom može daleko dogurati i da ima života i u Hrvatskoj. Hrvatska je zemlja puna talenata u svim područjima i treba učiniti sve da se ti talenti razviju i budu svima na korist. Pripreme za Rio jamačno su žestoke. Kakav je Vaš radni dan? Koliko je u njemu sklekova, trbušnjaka, podignutih kilograma, pretrčanih kilometara? Stignete li se posvetiti još čemu osim atletike? - Pripreme za Rio veoma su teške. Moj svaki radni dan počinje buđenjem u osam sati i doručkom te odlaskom na prvi trening, onaj u 10 sati, trening bacanja i trčanja. Ujutro na treningu bacam od 60 do 90 hitaca i imitacija, pretrčim tri do četiri kilometra, što za zagrijavanje, što u dionicama. Nakon toga odlazim kući, tuširam se i ručam. Slijedi popodnevni odmor koji traje sat do sat i pol. Popodnevni trening počinje nešto malo prije 17 sati, a radi se na snazi i izdržljivosti. Dnevno u teretani dignem oko dvije, tri tone utega. Popodnevni trening često traje između dva i pol, tri sata bez oporavka. Poslije završetka imam oporavak koji traje sat do dva, a onda idem kući. Tako završava moj radni dan. I tako 365 dana u godini. No, mogu se pohvaliti da stignem gotovo sve. Jer, kako volim reći, sve se može ako se hoće. Ljeto. Rio. Olimpijska ste pobjednica koja ide u obranu titule. Možemo li već sada kazati kako ćemo Vas vidjeti ondje gdje Vam i jest mjesto, na pobjedničkom postolju!?
- Ne volim nikada govoriti unaprijed, ali mogu obećati kako ću dati sve od sebe da budem najbolja kada se to od mene najviše očekuje.
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hile ordinary people can hardly wait for their summer holiday, there is no doubt she can hardly wait until August, but not because of a break. While others are impatiently looking forward to sunshine and the sea, she is eager for the moment she will tread on the tarmac of the Olympic Stadium in Rio, take a discus into her hands, step into the throwing circle and throw it far, as far as she can. The Olympic Games and an Olympic winner, the true queen of sports, Sandra Perković - Olympic, world and triple European champion discus thrower. And she is only 26! She is flying to Rio in order to defend her Olympic gold, which she won four years ago in London All eyes will be on you, because if anything is worth betting on, it is that you will do your best and give a maximum performance, as you always do, which in your case, usually results in a medal. - It is true I can hardly wait for August and the beginning of the Olympics in Rio. It is something one does not prepare for in just a year, or even four years, but you prepare and work your entire life in order to achieve this dream. Thinking back to London, I have the best possible memories of the Olympics - a major event, lots of people, an entire world living only for sports. I have the honor of defending my gold medal from London, and I can say I feel slight pressure, but also a great drive to be better than ever. I give it my all in each competition, but it is a special feeling to step into the circle representing Croatia and know that I am competing for all of us Croats. That is when a particular strength and pride
awakens inside me and pushes me forward. You have gotten your fans used to victories, and your medal-winning streak is impressive, not to mention you are still young enough to make them even happier for some years to come. Are these expectations people have of you a big burden or is it a motivating force? How do you cope with the stress of major competitions? -Like I said, I always feel slight pressure, but it is a positive pressure. That is when the head and the body work in unison towards a common goal - being the best exactly when it is expected of me the most. I pace myself for each major competition, and I do my best to excel at each one and to make everyone proud. I love major competition and packed stadiums. I know my devoted fans cheer me on with all they have, too. You have started out the season perfectly, with a 70.59 meter throw in Split. Do you think this is the year you could break the incredible world record set in 1988 by East German athlete Gabriele Reinsch? - I think it is too early to talk about the world record now because it has been held for 28 years and is something to be admired. My wish is to come close to it someday, or even beat it in the best case scenario. This is one of the goals I want to fulfill by the end of my career. The 70.59 meter throw from Split is an indication that this season could be my dream season. I have never had a better season opening, and if it continues, I hope my discus will fly distances it has never flown before. Let’s go back to the beginning. It’s not common for girls to take up throwing sports. What was the determining factor for you? How did your coach, the late Ivan Ivančić, talk you into it? - I took up athletics in the second grade of
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elementary school through the Athletics in Schools Program. Apart from that, I also played volleyball and basketball, but the love for individual sports was stronger, so I picked athletics, the queen of all sports. I tried all of the disciplines; I started with running and the long jump, but I later switched to throwing. When I first put a discus in my hands, it was love at first touch. My favorite coach, Ivančić, did not have to talk me into anything; he predicted I would be a success from the very beginning. In my first training session, I threw the discus 30 meters, and he said I would be throwing 50 by that summer. At first, I did not believe him, but when I actually did do it, I had no more doubt and the meters just kept accumulating. Unfortunately, Ivančić is gone, but he will remain in my heart forever, because he crowned my love of the sport when I was the first female to get a gold medal for Croatia in the summer Olympic Games. Good results are impossible without dedicated training. Have you ever wanted to leave the discus throw because you got the feeling your peers were living an easier and more carefree existence? At what moment did you finally realize, or at least hope, that you were a great talent and that you had a great career ahead of you? - Honestly, I never considered leaving sports, because that is who I am to the core. I joined a sports group back in kindergarten. I’ve always gotten only the best feedback from coaches in any sport I’ve tried, and when I seriously took up athletics, I knew I would achieve great things. I think I was born with the talent to throw the discus, and I have achieved what I am with hard work, persistence and effort. Of all the medals you have won, of 10
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all the distances you have thrown the discus, which title and which throw are you particularly proud of and why? Or is that throw yet to come? - My favorite title is definitely the title of Olympic champion, and my favorite throw is the 71.08 meter one from the World Championships in Zurich. My hope is that my favorite title and favorite throw occur simultaneously in Rio. Your coach, Edis Elkasović, is also your life partner. Is it sometimes difficult to separate love from business? How do you achieve this? - We’ve been succeeding at both from day one. As a child, my mother used to say that I should do my job with love, and I listened to her, because the best relationship is when people create something together - realize their dreams, support and respect each other. I think Edis and I are a perfect combination for what we do. When it comes to female athletics, I dare say you break prejudices. You might be a beast in the throwing circle, but outside it, you often show pure elegance. Sneakers or high heels, it’s all the same to you. - Thank you for the compliment. I enjoy my body, and regardless of whether I’m wearing sneakers or high heels, I like to feel good and I like to dress up because I am, above all, a woman. Having a life outside sports is very important to me. I think it is particularly important for athletes to give themselves a break from the daily grind of difficult training in order to relax and enjoy something else. What are the relationships like in the throwing world? Do athletes manage to develop friendships at the numerous tournaments?
- There have always been friendships among normal people. As far as the international scene goes, our socializing begins in May and ends in October, which is a period of almost half a year. We share the good and the bad that life brings us. I have a circle of throwers that are dear to me, as well as other athletes who I always look forward to seeing again and hanging out with. It is always nicer to work in a positive atmosphere, rather than a negative one. You have recently become a member of the Croatian Parliament, a position you won as an elite athlete at the latest parliamentary elections. What issues will you mostly be focusing on? What will you advocate for? - It’s time the youth showed what they know and for young people to fight for their rights. I want to show them that continued work can take them a long way and that there is life in Croatia. Croatia is a country full of talent in all fields, and a lot has to be done in order for that talent to develop and be of use to anyone. Preparations for Rio must be fierce. What does your workday look like? How many pushups, sit-ups, barbells lifted and kilometers crossed during a run does it consist of? Do you have time to dedicate yourself to anything else but athletics? - Preparations for Rio are very difficult. Each day begins with me waking up at 8, eating breakfast and going to my 10 a.m. training session, which consists of throwing and running. I do 60 to 90 throws and imitations during my morning training; I run three-to-four kilometers, partly as warm-up and partly in intervals. After that, I go home to shower and eat lunch. Then, it is time for my afternoon rest, which lasts between 60 and 90 minutes. Afternoon training starts just before 5 p.m., and it consists of strength and stamina exercises. I lift between two and three tons of weights every day. Afternoon training lasts between two and a half and three hours without a break. After training, I have two or three hours of recovery time and then, I go home. That is the end of my workday. And it continues like that 365 days a year. However, I can say I get to do almost everything, because anything can be done when one is persistent. The summer. Rio. You are an Olympic champion defending the title. Is it too presumptuous to say that we already see you where you belong - on the winner’s podium? - I don’t like to think that far ahead, but I can promise I will do everything in my power to be the best when it is expected of me the most.
A wondrous adventure Zlatni Rat beach
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Strain by Simon Morasi Piperčić
Priča vaše sobe / Every room has a story
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Rhomb by Simon Morasi Piperčić
Monk blagovaonski stol by Grupa
Polygon table by Numen / For Use
oo many usable items that leave observers indifferent have raised the idea of creating the permanent identity. prostoria was created from the desire to transmit the love for the aesthetics into an item that will cause reactions from the criticism as it has knowledge, experience and great enthusiasm and affection built in it. We consider the aesthetics as a basic human need, aware that every item is a subject to particular criticism of taste. We are also fully aware that through this criticism it is necessary to acknowledge not only eye catching images, but also the category of practical, functional and innovative. Every our product is innovative. Some in the conceptual, others in technological way and some are focused, and in such clear and direct way they make the impression that there is no doubt in their positive and honest attitude towards the user. Every our product is functional. The form of our products follows their function. Every product is subject to change in its attempt to get better. Every our new project is a new challenge. We look forward to it with the same enthusiasm. We want every our product to bring smile to the user by its appearance and quality. That is our basic premise.
Match by Sanja Knezović
reviše uporabnih predmeta koji ostavljaju ravnodušnog promatrača rezultiralo je idejom o stvaranju trajnog identiteta. prostoria je nastala kroz tu želju da se ljubav prema estetici pretoči u predmet koji će izazvati reakcije kritike jer u njega je utkano znanje, iskustvo i na kraju golem entuzijazam i ljubav. Estetiku smatramo osnovnom ljudskom potrebom, svjesni da je svaki predmet podložan kritici ukusa, ali isto tako svjesni da treba pojmiti ne samo oku ugodne slike, nego i kategoriju praktičnoga, funkcionalnoga i inovativnoga. Svaki je naš proizvod inovativan. Neki u idejnom, drugi u tehnološkom, a neki proizvodi rezultat su promišljanja već postojećih klasika, te tako na jasan i neposredan način ostavljaju dojam da ne postoji nikakva sumnja u njihov pozitivan i iskren stav prema korisniku. Svaki je naš proizvod funkcionalan. Forma naših proizvoda prati njihovu funkciju. Svaki proizvod podložan je mijeni u težnji da bude bolji. Svaki naš novi projekt jest i novi izazov. Veselimo mu se s jednakim entuzijazmom. Želimo da naš proizvod svojim izgledom i kvalitetom nanovo izmami osmijeh svoga korisnika. To nam je osnovna premisa.
Cloud by Sanja Knezović
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The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.
To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËnu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijal- nog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvat skoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2011. godine, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima. Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica − kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. pro sinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine. Hrvatska je od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica Europske unije. This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. According to the 2011 census, Croatia’s population was 4,284,889. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The official language is Croatian, and the of ficial script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cul tural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova. National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, 14
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Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, na tural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.
Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spome nicima iz svih razdoblja, zbog burnih povije snih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja razliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karak teriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËk i spome nici, spomenici iz rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sak ralna baπtina te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeurops kog a kulturnog krug a i istiË e se mnogim prapovijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvor cima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spo menicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Diok lecijanova palaËa, pregra ena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazili ka u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park Plit viËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine. A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent even ts of history and the interlacing of influences of dif ferent cultures. Its coast is characterized by the influe nces of Mediterranean culture, num erou s anc ie nt rem ai ns, mon um ents of the Rom an era and early Midd le Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of dis tinc tive Med iterr an ea n urb an entitie s that have been preser ved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, for tres ses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian citie s and two monumental com-plexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocleti an, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik.
Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − najveÊe turistiËko iznenaenje te hit-odrediπte na Sre dozemlju. Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, priobalje te kontinentalni dio zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u 2015. godini u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima zabilježili su 14,343.323 turista, od kojih je stranih 12,683.179. Turisti su ostvarili u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima 71,605.315 noÊenja. Hoteli, turistiËka naselja i apartmani, hosteli, kampovi, sobe i apartmani u kuÊanstvima te ostale vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim standardima. Bogata je kulturna ponuda, kongresna i wellnes ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, charter ponuda (iznajmljivanje plovila za razonodu i sport), kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih i biciklistiËkih staza, vinske ceste, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti… Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja, nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog aviopri jevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluautoc esta Hrvats ka je bliæa nego ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajektom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su po srijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od svakodnevice miljama i miljama daleko... Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has bee n a hit destination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and in ternational experts in tourism. According to data from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, the Croatian tourist destinations located on the islands, along the coast and in the continental part of the country, including the capital city of Zagreb, recorded about 14,34 million tourists in commercial accommodation facilities in 2015, of whom around 12,68 million were foreign tourists. Tourists realized 71,605,315 overnight stays. Hotels, tourist villages and apartments, hostels, camps, rooms and apartments in private homes and other forms of accommodation, such as modern nautical centres, are equipped in line with international standards. There is a rich cultural offer, together with the congress and wellness offer, sport-recreation and entertainment contents, the charter offer (renting sailing vessels for leisure and sport), many kilometres of well-groomed walking and cycling paths, wine roads, sightseeing
excursions that include natural and cultural treasures... Novac i naËin plaÊanja Kun a je na z iv novË an e jed in ic e Rep ub like Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp). NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima − 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac − 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim karticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima.
Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Kun a (kn). In circ ul at io n are bank notes in Kun a and coins in Kun a and Lip a (lp) ∑ one hund red th of a Kun a. The bank notes are issue d in the foll ow ing den om in at io ns: 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Kun a, while the den om in at io n struct ur e of the coi ns is 1, 2 and 5 Kun a and 5, 10, 20 and 50 Lip a (100 Lip a = 1 Kun a). Paym ents can be mad e by cred it card (Din ers, Vis a, Amer ic an Ex pres s, Eur oc ard and Mas terc ard), as well as euro-check s. Cas h can be with drawn from ATM s.
ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalne / regular sezonske ljetne / seasonal in summer
motorway, fast roads toll station tunnel, bridge other main roads national parks nature parks international border crossing petrol stations (0-24) airports ferry routes UNESCO World Heritage CROATIA AIRLINES
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PRIRODNE LJEPOTE NATURAL BEAUTIES
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Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos: Goran Å afarek
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Jedan od parkova prirode u Hrvatskoj, Lastovsko otočje, čuva mnoga prirodna bogatstva. Osobito podmorje Lastova u svojim bistrim dubinama čuva ekološke sustave, koji su među najočuvanijima na Jadranu.
As one of Croatia’s nature parks, the Lastovo Archipelago is home to many natural treasures. In particular, the crystal-clear depths of Lastovo’s seabed are the habitat of eco-systems, which are among the most well-preserved in the Adriatic Sea.
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to je dalje, to je očuvanije. Iako to predstavlja teškoće u prometu, na udaljenijim jadranskim otocima sačuvala se mediteranska duša, izbjegao masovni turizam i pretjerana urbanizacija. Lastovsko otočje razasuto je u južnom Jadranu, petnaestak kilometara južno od Korčule. Najveći je i središnji otok Lastovo, no tu je još četrdesetak otoka, otočića, grebena, usidrenih na palagruškome podmorskom pragu koji se iz dubine izdiže između plićeg Jadrana na sjeveru i vrlo 18
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duboke južnojadranske zavale. Najzapadniji i najudaljeniji od svih jest Sušac, slijedi zapadno otočje, istočno uz Lastovo otočna je skupina Lastovnjaci, a još istočnije Vrhovnjaci. Neki od njih samo su gole kamene kape koje tek malo vire iznad mora, zapljuskuju ih valovi i na udaru su vjetra, tek s pokojim čuperkom žilave biljke. Krš ovdje izranja iz mora te stvara brojna uzvišenja, od kojih su neka gole stijene. To se dobro vidi sa 417 metara visokog Huma, najvišeg vrha otoka Lastova. S vrha se vide i pi-
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tome udoline usred krškog krajolika, nastale u nepropusnim zonama dolomita, ali i s pijeskom koji su donijeli vjetrovi, po čemu je jedinstven u našem kršu. Tu su vrijedni otočani podignuli mala polja maslinika, vinograda i povrća. Da bi se polja natapala, a blago pojilo, sagradili su mnoge lokve, male oaze gdje žeđ gase i mnoge divlje životinje, a neke su stalni stanari, poput zelenih žaba, zmija ili kukaca. Na brdo se poput loze raspuzao grad Lastovo, čiji se drevni kameni zidovi ispod crvenih krovova blistaju na podnevnome mediteranskom suncu. Gotovo svaki krov diči se fumarom, dimnjakom, čiji maštoviti oblici nadmašuju jedan drugog. U spomen na obranu otoka od napada tamnoputih pljačkaša u 15. stoljeću, Lastovci svake godine na pokladni utorak spaljuju slamnatog crnog lutka. No ostatak je otoka, osim naselja, uglavnom pod šumom kojoj pogoduje klima masline − s mnogo sunca ljeti te blagim, kišovitim zimama. Šuma je, istina, u prvome redu makija hrasta crnike i alepskog bora. Osobito se u njoj ističu ukusni, narančasti do jarkocrveni plodovi planike, koji je ovdje čest grm, nalik na lovor. Svaki čas zašušte gušterice, no ne treba se bojati zmija otrovnica jer ih ovdje nema. Utjecaj klime, pučinska osama, neobično duboko tlo, obilje sunca, ali i noćna vlaga daju Lastovu i cijelom otočju veliku prirodnu vrijednost. Zabilježeno je 810 vrsta biljaka. Među njima su endemične vrste, poput trave trsoveza, koja raste samo na Lastovu. S Huma i ostalih vrhova vide se i uvale, iako otok nije razveden kao ostatak našeg dijela Jadrana. Ipak, more se duboko proširuje u uvale poput Skrivene luke, a osobito obližnje Uske uvale, koja prije nalikuje na sićušni fjord. Suprotnost su strme i visoke obale u čijem podnožju more klokoće u potkapinama i špiljama, nastalim stalnim djelovanjem valova. Na osamljenim hridima takve morske špilje živjela je prije i sredozemna medvjedica, no ipak, poneki susreti otočana s bivšom stanarkom daju nadu u njezin povratak. Otočje se diči
čak i pješčanom plažom na otoku Saplunu. Kad hirovito more dopusti odlazak dvadesetak kilometara zapadno od Lastova, dolazi se brodom do stjenovite utvrde usred mora otoka Sušca. Oskudno tlo, jaki vjetrovi i malo kiše omogućuju opstanak samo 278 vrsta, no u ekstremnim uvjetima kriju se uvijek i endemi. Sušac ih tako ima osam, od kojih se ističe sušačka vrzina na pukotinama obalnih stijena. Osim biljaka, tu je stanište vrlo zanimljivim pticama − cjevonosnicama, skupini kojoj pripada i poznati albatros. Ime su dobile po cjevastom završetku nosa, kroz koji mogu izbacivati morsku sol. Ovdje se gnijezde gregula i kaukal. To su prave ptice mora jer, osim za gniježđenja, gotovo ne dodiruju kopno. Gregula u letu djeluje kao leteći križ jer krila drži pod pravim kutom. Leti veoma nisko, a vrhovima krila gotovo dodiruje vodu. Hrani se ribom i mekušcima, pa često prati ribarske brodove. Otočje je vrlo važno i za sredozemne galebove, a ovdje ih je čak 70 posto populacije u Hrvatskoj. Manji su, tamnozelenih nogu, crvenog prstena oko oka i crvenog kljuna, pred čijim krajem je tanka okomita crna pruga. U jesen, na liticama stražari eleonorin sokol, neobično tamne boje. Čeka umorne ptičice koje su u selidbi na jug u prolazu ili nastoje predahnuti na otoku. Mnogi ipak smatraju da je pravo blago Lastovskog otočja ispod površine mora. Treba zaroniti u kristalno bistro more gdje se otvara prava predstava života − bogata oblicima i bojama. U pukotinama stijena skrivaju se hobotnice, a sipe se, maskirane u okoliš, provlače uz dno. Na hridinastu dnu Lastova česti su brkati jastog, hlap, kuke, rijetke vrste puževa, poput tritonove trube i prugaste mitre. Uz dno se često nalaze nepokretna škrpina, ribu love zubatac i gof, iz zasjede vrebaju ugor, murina i još mnoge ribe. Otvorenim morem krstare tune, sabljani, nekoliko vrsta dupina (najčešće obični, glavati i dobri) te morske kornjače (glavata i zelena želva). Lastovsko podmorje obogaćuje mnoštvo
uvala, pličina, dubina i morskih grebena, podmorskih kanjona i skrivenih prolaza. No možda su najveće tajne skrivene na većim dubinama Sušca, kamo sunce jedva dopire, a vlada plavozelena monotonija. Svjetiljka vraća boje i oživljava predivne žute i crvene šume gorgonija, crvenih i ostalih koralja, uz koje plove jata riba, što je u Jadranu sve rjeđa slika. Devedesetak pojedinačnih vrsta koralja te onih koje žive u zajednici u Jadranu ubrajaju se u skupinu žarnjaka. Iako udaljeno, Lastovsko otočje nezaobilazna je sličica u velikome prirodnome mozaiku Hrvatske.
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he further down you go, the more preserved the nature is. Although these eco-systems are not easy to reach by modern means of transport, the most distant Adriatic islands have preserved their Mediterranean soul, avoiding mass tourism and excessive urbanization. The Lastovo Archipelago is scattered throughout the southern Adriatic, some 15 km from the Island of Korčula. The largest and most central island is Lastovo, but there are also some forty islands, islets and reefs, anchored in the Palagruža undersea threshold rising from the depths between the shallower Adriatic CROATIA AIRLINES
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Sea in the north and the very deep basin of the South Adriatic. The westernmost and the furthest of all is Sušac, followed by the western archipelago; to the east of Lastovo is a group of islands called Lastovnjaci, and even further to the east, Vrhovnjaci. Some of them are only bare stone caps, peeking slightly above sea level, washed over by waves and exposed to winds, with only a few tough plants growing here and there. Here, karst rises from the sea, creating numerous mounts, some of which are bare rocks. Lastovo’s highest peak, the 417 m tall, Hum, offers a great view of this landscape. From this peak, you can see arable valleys in the midst of the karst landscape, formed into impervious dolomite zones, but also containing sand brought in by the wind, which is a unique phenomenon in the Croatian karst landscape. Industrious island residents have grown small olive-groves, vineyards and vegetable gar24
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dens there. In order to irrigate the fields and provide water for cattle, they built many pools - small oases where many wild animals also come to quench their thirst, some of which have even become permanent residents, like green frogs, snakes and insects. The town of Lastovo has crept up the hill like a grape vine, with its ancient stone walls underneath and red roofs sparkling in the midday Mediterranean sun. Almost every roof boasts a fumar, a chimney - one more creatively-shaped than the next. Commemorating the defense of the island from raiders back in the 15th century, the residents of Lastovo burn a dark-skinned straw dummy on Shrove Tuesday every year. However, the rest of the island, except the villages, is mostly covered by forests which prefer the olive climate - an abundance of sun and gentle, rainy winters. Granted, the forest primarily consists of Holm oak and Aleppo pine maquis shrubland. The most prominent
feature of the forest is the delicious, orangeto-bright red fruit of the strawberry tree, a common shrub resembling laurel. Every now and then, you will hear lizards rustling, but you need not fear getting bitten by any venomous snakes because there are none on the island. Climate, a solitary position on the open seas, exceptionally-deep soil, an abundance of sunlight, as well as nighttime humidity give Lastovo and the entire archipelago a great natural value. Eight hundred and ten plant species have been identified. They include endemic species, like Mauritania grass, which only grows on Lastovo. Coves can also be seen from Hum and other peaks, although the island’s coast is not as indented as the rest of the Adriatic. However, the sea extends deeply into coves like Skrivena Luka, and particularly into the nearby Uska Uvala, which is more like a tiny fjord. A contrast to this is the steep and tall coast, at the foot of which the sea gurgles in caves and semi-caves created by the incessant lapping of waves. Mediterranean monk seals once used to inhabit the solitary cliffs of these sea caves and the fact that islanders still occasionally encounter former residents there stirs up hope of their return. The archipelago even boasts a sandy beach on the island of Saplun. Whenever the fickle sea allows one to sail some 20 km to the west of Lastovo, a rocky fortress in the midst of the sea - the Island of Sušac - can be reached by boat. Stony ground, strong winds and lack of rain allow for the survival of only 278 species; however, endemic species can always be found in extreme conditions. Sušac has eight of these species, the most striking of which is Brassica Cazzae, which can be found in the crevices of coastal rock. In addition to plants, this is the habitat of very interesting birds - petrels, a bird family which includes the famous albatross. They have their nos-
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trils enclosed in one or two tubes on their straight, deeply-grooved bills with hooked tips through which they can eject sea salt. Also nesting here are the Yelkouan shearwater and Scopoli’s shearwater. These are the true birds of the sea as they, besides nesting, spend almost no time on land. In flight, the Yelkouan shearwater resembles a flying cross, as its wings are perpendicular to the body. It flies very low, and the tips of its wings almost brush the water’s surface. It feeds on fish and mollusks, and thus, often follows fishing boats. The archipelago is also important for the Audouin’s gull, and the local population accounts for as much as 70% of Croatia’s entire Audouin gull population. It is a small bird with dark green legs, a red ring around its eye and a red beak, at the tip of which is a narrow vertical black line. In autumn, the extremely dark Eleonora’s Falcon watches over the cliffs, as it waits for tired small birds migrating south to stop on the island for some rest. However, many believe that the true treasure of the Lastovo Archipelago is beneath the sea’s surface. One needs to dive into the crystal-clear sea where a true spectacle of life takes place, where there is an abundance of shapes and colors. The rock crevices provide shelter for octopuses, while cuttlefish disguised to resemble the environment, creep along the seabed. The rocky seabed of Lastovo often provides a home to the spiny lobster, the European lobster, small slipper lobster, as well as to rare snails like the Triton’s trumpet and the zoned mitre. Near the bottom of the sea, one can often find the red scorpionfish and see the common dentex and the greater amberjack preying on other fish, while the European conger, the Mediterranean moray and many other fish species lurk. Tuna, swordfish, several dolphin and sea turtle species all cruise the open seas. Lastovo’s seabed is abundant with many coves, shallows and depths, sea reefs, underwater canyons and hidden passages. But the greatest secrets may be hidden in the even greater depths near Sušac, a uniform blue-green space where the sun’s rays can barely reach. Using a lamp will restore colors and make beautiful yellow and red gorgonians forests come alive, as well as variously-colored corals as schools of fish swim by. Unfortunately, this is a scene becoming more and more rare in the Adriatic. Some 90 individual coral species and those living in groups in the Adriatic belong to the Cnidarians group. Although far away, the Lastovo archipelago is an indispensable piece in Croatia’s big natural mosaic. 26
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Istria
www.istra.com 28
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OTOCI ISLANDS .... Ako mi budeπ gradio kameni ærtvenik, nemoj ga graditi od klesanoga kamena, jer Ëim na nj spustiπ svoje dlijeto, oskvrnut Êeπ ga. Knjiga Izlaska, Propis o žrtveniku
Pogled na dio korčulanskog arhipelaga, u prvom planu Korčula sa zvonikom katedrale sv. Marka View of the Korčula Archipelago; in the foreground - Korčula and the bell tower of St. Mark’s Cathedral
Kad bi priroda uopÊe mogla iskazivati naklonost, mogli bismo reÊi da je darivanjem viπe od tisuÊu otoka, hridi i grebena duæ njezine obale izrazila svu svoju velikoduπnost Hrvatskoj. Vrnik je jedan od njih. If it were at all possible for nature to show its preferences, then the thousand plus islands, islets and rocks strewn along the Adriatic coast could easily be perceived as an act of nature’s extreme generosity towards Croatia. Vrnik is one of them. 30
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.... And if thou wilt make me an altar of stone, thou shalt not build it of hewn stone: for if thou shalt lift up thy tool upon it, thou hast polluted it. Exodus: The Law of the Altar
D
vadesetak ih se rasulo poput tamnih kristala i u modrini nevelikog kanala koji razdvaja KorËulu od izduæenoga peljeπkog poluotoka. Vrnik je jedini trajno nastanjeni otok tog arhipelaga. U gradskome muzeju KorËule Ëuva se neobiËan vlasniËki list, kamena ploËa iz petog stoljeÊa, pronaena na otoku, kojom je na latinskome jeziku uklesano da je izvjesni Valentinijan sa suprugom Sabatijom vlasnik ribnjaka na otoku. S obzirom na prapovijesne i rimske nalaze na susjednim otoËiÊima, te poznatu psefizmu iz obliænje Lumbarde iz 3. st.pr. Kr., jednog od najstarijih pronaenih zapisa na kamenu, kojom se zemlja raspodjeljuje grËkim kolonizatorima, pretpostavlja se da je i Vrnik bio nastanjen mnogo prije. Popisom je prije dvije stotine godina zabiljeæeno 86 stanovnika na ©koju, pedeset godina poslije bilo ih je 173. Ali, prije Ëetrdeset godina, na otoku je stalno æivjelo 55 ljudi, a danas ih je samo dvoje. »ak je i posljednji klesarski majstor, sa svojom suprugom, odustao od boravka na Vrniku zimi, kad je otok izloæen samoÊi i snaænim vjetrovima. A vjetrovi su osobito vaæni za æivot na otoku. Kaæu da svaki od njih ima svoju duπu, svoj miris i svoj okus. Vrnik je jednako izloæen dvama najpoznatijima - buri, nepredvidivoj, koja udara na refule i podiæe valove s Ëijih krijesta otkida pjenu pa se Ëini da se more dimi ili da kipi. Hladna je i suha i, osim u rijetkim sluËajevima kad se usput napuni kiπom i oblacima pa je nazivaju πkurom burom, donosi sunËano, ali svjeæe vrijeme. Katkad otok od bure zaπtiti najviπi peljeπki vrh, Sv. Ilija, koji svojim surim liticama dominira cijelim krajolikom, ali taj sjeverni vjetar ËeπÊe prekoraËi obliænje planinsko sedlo pa se Ëini kao da joπ ubrza spustom niza strminu. I u samom je imenu Vrnika sadržano značenje brane (vrana), branika - možda upravo Lumbarde od silovitih naleta bure… Nekad je Sv. Ilija sluæio VrniËanima kao golem sunËani sat pa su vrijeme mjerili po osunËanosti jedne uoËljive ploËe na njegovim padinama. I danas po njemu Ëesto predviaju vremenske neprilike - tako kaæu da se sprema oluja kad Sv. Ilija dobije svoju kapu od oblaka. Jugo, pak, koji ovdje nazivaju πilokom, dolazi u druπtvu s olovnim oblacima, niskim i bremeni-
Piπe/By Dubravka Belas Fotografije/Photos Ivo Pervan
tima kiπom. Upravo ovdje, na juænom Jadranu, Ëesto je olujno i podiæe duge i pravilne valove koji glasno kotrljaju vrniËka æala, otimlju ih i uporno preoblikuju, uzimajuÊi viπe, vraÊajuÊi manje i poraajuÊi neke od najljepπih malih plaæa nadaleko. Neugodan je i lebiÊ ili garbin, jugozapadni vjetar koji zimi katkad naraste do olujnoga, podigne razinu mora i stihijski iskriæa valove koji zatim razbijaju obalu, lome griæe i mostove, ljudskom rukom sazdana pristaniπta. A kad je vrijeme loπe, da otok ima timun (kormilo), i on bi otplovija, izgovoreno je drugim povodom, kad je samo u jednom danu, u poËetku proπlog stoljeÊa, tisuÊu i pol mjeπtana Blata sa susjedne KorËule otiπlo u svijet zbog teπkih ekonomskih prilika. Da bi se æivjelo na otoku, treba biti svestran. Treba znati Ëuvati i popravljati barku, najvaæniju sponu s ostatkom svijeta, treba znati loviti ribu, imati svoja posebna mjesta poπte - za bacanje vrπa i mreæa, treba znati ispeÊi kruh, obraditi πkrte otoËke vrtove, uzgojiti maslinu i praviti od nje ulje... Lako se prepoznaje put prema starom kaštilu, u dijelu nekad zvanom Gornje selo. Samo treba slijediti trag cvijeÊa - toliko je ljubavi uloæeno u skromne biljke koje rastu sasvim uz more, u nemoguÊim uvjetima, u kamenu, gotovo bez zemlje, cvatu u napuπtenoj barci, probuπenoj djeËjoj lopti ili deblu sruπene palme, izloæene pripeci, vjetru i posolici. A pred jednim od najljepπih i najoËuvanijih petrala, kako ovdje nazivaju napuπtene klesarske radionice, joπ neobraen blok kamena Ëeka da ga stari majstor ponovno uzme u ruke i na njemu radi bez prave potrebe, za duπu, tek toliko da se na otoku joπ jedanput Ëuje zvonki zvuk klesanja, ritmiËna glazba rada od koje su æivjeli Ëitavi naraπtaji. Sa suprotne strane otoka, zaπtiÊena od bure i okrenuta prema Lumbardi, uvala je Bufalo, za koju vam vjerojatno nitko neÊe znati reÊi kako je dobila neobiËno ime. U njoj veÊi dio godine boravi i stvara, a ljeti vodi svojevrsnu umjetniËku πkolu, kipar Lujo Lozica. Pred njegovom su kuÊom i atelijerom izloæene velike skulpture u kamenu i mramoru, glatke, bjelopute, zaobljene odaliske koje svjedoËe o ljepoti i zgusnutoj senzualnosti ovog podneblja.
Kad se barkom pribliæavate otoËiÊu, odvojenome od velike i nestvarno lijepe KorËule tek uskim tjesnacem Jeæevice, uËinit Êe vam se da more, nekim Ëudom, postaje sve prozirnije i sve mirisnije. Taj miris mora, koji podsjeÊa na svjeæe otvorenu lubenicu, pred pristajanjem na Škoj pomijeπat Êe se, veÊ prema godiπnjem dobu, s mirisima otoka - tamarisa, vrijesa, kadulje, divljeg πeboja, frezija i brnistre. Kasnije u godini bit Êe to miris lovora, pitospore, Ëempresa i smokava, zatim opojan miris oleandra i procvale mirte. Moæda Êe upravo tada, kada vi pristanete, cvasti stabla limuna i naranËi, a uvijek, u svako doba godine, doËekat Êe vas kompliciran, gust i opor miris smilja, samonikloga i smjernoga, ali ipak vladara toga skromnog otoka. Smilje je ujedno i glavno gorivo srpanjskih krijesova koji se pale pa ih djeca preskakuju noć uoči velikoga škojarskog blagdana, 2. srpnja, na svetkovinu Gospe od Škoja, zaštitnice otoka, koju slave već više od stotinu godina. Gospin se kip i relikvijar na taj zavjetni blagdan u procesiji nosi do crkvice Gospe od pohođenja. Na relikvijaru koji je za stotu obljetnicu štovanja Gospe od Škoja izradio kipar Hrvoje Ljubić, uza simbole preteškoga kamenarskoga rada upisani su stihovi: Još kao da čujemo udarce bata i dlijeta vrijednih kamenara, naših neimara, a kad sve bi do vrhunca došlo, tad pogledi dizali se k Nebu: Pomozi, o Gospe! U dvorištima ljubaznih škojara, koji će na svoj blagdan rado barkom prevesti s Korčule na Vrnik svakoga gosta, tada se mogu kušati domaći kolači i vino. Ukratko, kao što kažu škojari: Na dva luja, svi škojari aleluja! Malo je danas mjesta na svijetu Ëiji je izgled tako izmijenjen ljudskom rukom kao πto je to otok Vrnik. TuristiËki vodiËi koji u sezoni barem jedanput na dan dovedu barku punu turista na brzi obilazak, najprije ih vode u kâve - stare otoËke kamenolome. Vaenje kamena i njegova obrada oblikovale su stoljeÊima izgled otoka - ostale su okomite isklesane litice visoke i do pedeset metara, s redovima karakteristiËnog uzorka riblje kosti, nastale mukotrpnim ruËnim klesanjem kamenih blokova. Kako se kamen na Vrniku nije samo vadio nego i obraivao, upravo je od πkaje, kamenoga klesarskog otpada, CROATIA AIRLINES
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Pogled na otok Vrnik iz obliĹžnje Lumbarde View of the island of Vrnik from nearby Lumbarda
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Oltarna menza s mramornim inkrustacijama Tome Azalija u crkvici Gospe od Pohođenja na Vrniku The mensa of the altar with Azali’s marble incrustations in the Church of Our lady of Visitation on Vrnik
Kipar Lujo Lozica na Vrniku u uvali Bufalo ima svoj atelijer Sculptor Lujo Lozica in front of his atelier on Bufalo Bay on Vrnik CROATIA AIRLINES
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stvoren bregovit otoËki krajolik, ispresijecan prokopima, kanjonima i hodnicima, niz koje se, kozjim lojem namazanim smukovima, posebnim drvenim napravama koje istodobno podsjeÊaju na sanjke i na poloæene ljestve, kamen spuπtao do obale. Ondje ga je Ëekalo brodovlje koje Êe ga odvesti na naruËena odrediπta. Poslije su napravljene željezne tračnice po kojima su klizili vagoneti - od kojih je jedan sačuvan i na obali prolaznike podsjeća na dane vrničke kamenarske slave. Kamen je ovdje æiva tvar, iz njega se, govore
kamen. Toma Arhiakon, u citatima iz 13. stoljeÊa, spominje kako su za vrijeme progona krπÊana u korËulanskim kamenolomima radili rimski robovi. Smrtna kazna, koja im je bila dosuena jer nisu æeljeli odreÊi se krπÊanstva, bila bi ublaæena prisilnim radom u podzemnim kamenolomima. Od svih korËulanskih otoka na kojima se vadio kamen, Vrnik ima najstariju kamenarsku tradiciju, s pet takvih podzemnih kamenoloma. Bile su to poluπpilje izdubene izravno u kamenoj æili, kako bi se izbjegao mukotrpan postupak uklanjanja povrπinskog
naËina pospjeπilo i otkriÊe baruta. Kamen se vadio stepeniËasto, a brazde kojima su se skidali blokovi joπ su vidljive u starim kavama. Pri vaenju bloka, kad je god to bilo moguÊe, pazilo se da mu oblik bude πto bliæi æeljenome konaËnom proizvodu - na primjer stupu ili kamenici - posudi za Ëuvanje ulja, ili nekome drugom obliku, jer tako su prenoπenje i kasnija obrada bivali lakπima. VrniËki je kamen bijel i gust vapnenac koji u povrπinskim slojevima ima mnogo fosilnih πkoljaka. Ali πto se ide dublje, njegova je
sloja loπijeg kamena. Taj bi jalovi sloj ponegdje iznosio i nekoliko metara pa se stoga dobar kamen uzimao rudarskim zahvaÊanjem u sâm zdravi kameni sloj, pritom se gornji, nekvalitetan, ostavljao netaknutim. Danas je unutraπnjost tih podzemnih potkopa, grota dubokih i do 15 metara, gotovo potpuno zasuta πkajama. U srednjemu i novom vijeku sasvim je napuπten takav naËin lomljenja kamena, prelaskom na vanjsko, povrπinsko vaenje, a moæe se pretpostaviti da je napuπtanje rudarskoga
struktura sve ËiπÊa, dok se ne doe do najkvalitetnijeg kamena, najËiπÊega kalcijeva karbonata, koji ne trpi nikakve πtete od izloæenosti vremenskim uvjetima - suncu, kiπi, mrazu, hladnoÊi. On se ne mrvi, ne gubi bjelinu, polituru ni ËvrstoÊu ni djelovanjem morske vode, valova, plime i oseke, a podnosi i velike terete. Joπ i danas s ponosom Êe vam svaki πkojar reÊi kako su od vrniËkog kamena, uz popriliËno korËulanskih i dubrovaËkih palaËa, sagraene mnoge znamenite graevine u svijetu - od veliËanstvene Aja Sofije u Istanbulu, cvjet-
Pogled s Vrnika na franjevačku crkvu i samostan na otoku Badija, u pozadini vrh Sv. Ilija na Pelješcu View of the Franciscan church and monastery on the island of Badija; in the background - St. Elias Mountain on Pelješac
mnoge predaje, raa Ëovjek. Kamen Ëuva ljudsku toplinu, zadræava Ëovjekov miris. Ima neka duboka, tajna veza izmeu duπe i kamena. Moæda baπ prolaznost i ranjivost izazivaju Ëovjeka da u njemu, simbolu vjeËnosti, klesanjem ostavi svoj trag, svoj trajniji otisak. Kamen je ovdje Ëovjeku dom cijeloga æivota, a dom mu je i u smrti. Ovdje je kamen blago, i zato s pravom moæemo reÊi da je Vrnik otok s blagom. TraæeÊi vrstan graevni kamen za svoje palaËe, veÊ su stari Rimljani otkrili vrniËki 34
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nogotiËkih palaËa u Veneciji, dijelova Bijele kuÊe u Washingtonu, do budimpeπtanskog Parlamenta. Od kamena bijelog poput galebovih krila, u Zagrebu je od njega sagraeno Otvoreno uËiliπte, Kineski paviljon na ZagrebaËkom velesajmu i danaπnji Dom hrvatske vojske, no svakako su poznatije dubrovaËke graevine koje svoju ljepotu temelje upravo na kamenu sa ©koja. Samo su neke od njih: Kneæev dvor, crkva sv. Vlaha, dominikanska crkva, gradski sat, samostan Male braÊe i, naravno, nebrojenim koracima poput zrcala uglaËani ploËnik na Stradunu. Osobit procvat kamenarstvo je doæivjelo u 14. stoljeÊu kad se na KorËuli snaæno razvija kamenoklesarski obrt zbog potreba dubrovaËkih majstora za kvalitetnim kamenom. U potrazi za tim najvaænijim graevnim materijalom, oko kojega se vrti cijela hrvatska graditeljska kultura i tradicija, ti su majstori dolazili i u vrniËke kamenolome i pouËavali domaÊe radnike obradi kamena. U isto se vrijeme i grad KorËula poËinje pretvarati iz skromnog naselja u jedinstvenu prostorno ureenu cjelinu Ëija stara jezgra na poluotoku, gledana odozgo, podsjeÊa na skamenjenog skarabeja. Osobito rastu potrebe za kamenom kad se, uza stambenu, razvija i javna gradnja - pa se njime gradi nova katedrala, korËulanske zidine, crkve i poploËavaju ulice. I dok je na susjednoj Badiji, otoku koji moli, cvao duhovni život, Vrnik, otok koji radi, kojega stari Korčulani i Vrničani nisu zvali drugačije nego Škoj, a njegove stanovnike Škojarima, postaje mjestom svjetovnog života, rada i rađanja. Na ©koju je katkad radilo i do πest stotina radnika, strogo hijerarhijski i organizacijski podijeljenih. Na dnu ljestvice bili su kavaduri, najmanje plaÊeni i najmanje πkolovani radnici, Ëiji je posao bio i najmukotrpniji. Tragove njihovih vrijednih ruku danas vidimo na okomitim plohama napuπtenih kava. Klesali su kanale tek dovoljno duboke i πiroke da u njima mogu stajati i udarati ËekiÊem, a onda bi se kameni blok odvajao. Na vrhu jedne od tih litica uklesana je 1929. godina, kad se s nje poËeo vaditi kamen. Da bi se prikavavanjem, opisanim naËinom, doπlo do njezina dna, trebalo je nekoliko desetaka godina. Napravili su tako baπ kavaduri, i ne sluteÊi, ove Ëudesne spomenike teπkome ljudskom radu. Postojao je joπ jedan povrπinski naËin vaenja - tzv. kunjirom. Kameni bi se blokovi odvajali stepeniËasto; duæ kamenih æila iskopao bi se kanal u koji su se ulagali veliki klinovi. Kamenari bi zatim sloæno, na komandu, batovima tukli po klinovima sve dok se blok ne bi odvalio. Kavaduri su, uz vaenje kamena, Ëistili kave od otpada, odlaæuÊi ih najprije u ograena mjesta u suhozidima, a zatim i povrh njih CROATIA AIRLINES
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podiæuÊi breæuljke danas obrasle samoniklim Ëempresima, lovorom i makijom. Na starim fotografijama Vrnik, potpuno ogoljen i bijel, izlaæe svima svoju preokrenutu kamenu utrobu, a danas je, Ëetrdeset godina od prestanka organiziranog vaenja kamena, priroda uËinila svoje - biljke su malo-pomalo, zasijavajuÊi se same u kamenoj praπini, osvojile i gotovo otopile kamen, prorasle ga i čudesnom rekonkvistom proæele svojim korijenjem zazelenjujuÊi otok. Vjeπtiji su klesari radili u petralima, brojnim radionicama Ëiji su ostaci danas pomalo tuæna atrakcija otoka. Tuæna jer su takve - utihnule i napuπtene - prepuπtene samoÊi i propadanju. Rijetke su one koje joπ imaju krovove od kupa ili kamenih ploËa - kotala, a okna su im ili zabijena daskama ili ih uopÊe nema, pa su joπ izloæenije moru, vjetrovima i pogledima. I kavadure i klesare vodili su protomajstori - proti, vlasnici ili upravitelji petrala i kâva, koji su organizirali poslove. Kako je na otoku postojalo Ëak 29 kamenoloma u kojima su se rabile mnoge æeljezne alatke, klinovi, macole, piËinduri, pikuni, na otoku je postojalo i nekoliko kovaËija - kovaËnica u kojima su ih klesari i sami znali popravljati. Neke su obitelji stoljeÊima dobro æivjele i od brodarstva - ukrcavajuÊi kamen na svoje jedrenjake i izvozeÊi ga πirom svijeta. Na povratku u svojim su spremnicima, kao balast, dovozili plodnu zemlju i iskrcavali je na πkoju u male vrtove uza svoje kuÊe da im sluæe kao povrtnjaci, ili u dva-tri veÊa ardina. Najljepπi vrniËki ardin, onaj KorËulanke Ivice, skriven je iza srediπnjih kuÊa u Poπkoju, danaπnjem srediπtu mjesta, prikladno zaklonjenome i od bure i od juga. Na njegovim terasama svejednako rastu Ëudesno aromatiËne naranËe, mandarine i limuni, smokve, neπpule, æiæule, bob, artiËoke, rikula, maæuran, majËina duπica, kantarion i tko zna koji joπ mediteranski plod ili aromatiËna trava, a sve to u obilju cvijeÊa, od narcisa, perunika i divljih frezija, do ljubica i πumarica. Ovdje je i najljepπa kuÊa na otoku, stara, zagonetna vila Fabris. Pedesetih se godina proπlog stoljeÊa broj kamenara, koji su dolazili raditi na otok ili su ondje stanovali, smanjio na dvjestotinjak, a poËeo se rabiti i dinamit. Eksploziv je ubrzao skidanje jalovine s povrπine, ali i poveÊao koliËinu πkaje, pa se ona vagonetima odvozila i sipala u more, koje bi je nezasitno gutalo, a od onoga πto bi preostalo, oblikovalo lijepa bijela æala. Iz čempresima obraslih kava više se ne čuje ni povik Alarga, mina je, da se kamenari pripreme na eksploziju mine koja će odvaliti kamenu gromadu. A kad bi se prašina slegla, išlo bi se provjeriti je li sve dobro prošlo i je li stijena pukla baš kako je trebalo. CROATIA AIRLINES
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Klesari su isprva æivjeli u susjednim mjestima - Lumbardi, KorËuli, Ærnovu, a barkama bi svaki dan dolazili raditi na Vrnik ili bi prespavali u svojim radionicama. Poslije se dio njih zastalno preselio na ©koj i ondje sagradio kuÊe u kojima su æivjeli sa svojim obiteljima. Smatra se da je otok ponovno trajno naseljen u 17. stoljeÊu, najprije obiteljima Portolan, PeruËiÊ i KuËija, a poslije i ForetiÊima i Fabrisima. U tom se stoljeÊu na ©koju razvila i bratovπtina kamenara sv. Mateja, religiozno, ali i socijalno udruæenje Ëiji je zadatak, uz vjersko okupljanje, bila i cehovska zaπtita bratima, pa su se iz zajedniËke blagajne podupirali bolesni Ëlanovi, pomagala siroËad, davali prilozi za miraze, vjenËanja i pogrebe. Sve su bratovπtine imale svoja pravila, svoga crkvenog patrona, crkvu, kapelu ili barem oltar, a Ëesto i odreena mjesta okupljanja, tzv. skule, zajedniËke domove, te posebna odijela za nastupe u procesijama. U 17. stoljeÊu, toËnije 1674. godine, sagraena je, ljupka u svojoj odmjerenosti, barokna crkvica Gospe od Pohoenja, sa æivopisnom mramornom inkrustacijom na oltarnoj menzi, graditelja Tome Azalija, jednoga od najaktivnijih nastavljaËa viπestoljetne tradicije korËulanskog kamenarstva. Uz radove na korËulanskoj katedrali, radio je Azali po cijeloj juænoj Dalmaciji, bio protomajstor gradnje trobrodne jezgre hvarske katedrale, isporuËivao klesane dijelove za proËelje i zvonik kotorske katedrale, sagradio ljetnikovac Arneri u Blatu. Pretpostavlja se da je upravo Gospa od Pohoenja jedno od njegovih posljednjih djela. Brigu o crkvici danas vode škojari, oltar joj ukraπavaju uπkrobljenom Ëipkom i svjeæim cvijeÊem, a proete li onuda navečer, ponekad ćete kroz skladnu i skromnu rozetu vidjeti nestvarnu blagu svjetlost zapaljene svijeće - jer netko je od škojara krenuo na put. Najstarija je graevina na Vrniku kaπtil obitelji Gabrieli-Ismaeli iz 15. stoljeÊa, potpuno obnovljen prije nekoliko godina. Iako njegov oblik predoËuje moguÊu obrambenu funkciju, kaπtil je toj korËulanskoj plemiÊkoj obitelji sluæio kao ljetnikovac. U poËetku proπlog stoljeÊa podignuta je crkva Gospe od ©koja, koja danas dominira glavnom vizurom otoka, onom koja se vidi s korËulanskog rta KrmaËe, kako je Škojari popularno zovu, najbliæe kopnene toËke na kojoj je sagraeno parkiraliπte. Crkva, sa svojom zaobljenom, gotovo putenom apsidom, zorno svjedoËi o klesarskom umijeÊu Škojara, na koje Êe vas njihovi potomci danas neizostavno upozoriti: izmeu velikih kamenih blokova od kojih je sagraena, nema meuprostora, nema fuga, toliko su precizno isklesani da savrπeno, poput segmenata dorskoga hrama, nalijeæu jedan na drugi. Odmah do nje nalazi se i πkolska zgrada 38
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koja je bila otvorena sve do kraja pedesetih, kad je otok dobio i struju. No æivot je ipak, zatvaranjem kamenoloma, polako otjecao s otoka. Kako se turizam tada ovdje joπ nije mogao ni sanjati, stanovniπtvo se poËelo osipati, raseljavati najprije po KorËuli, Dubrovniku, Splitu, zatim Zagrebu i ostatku svijeta. Taj proces nije zaustavilo ni postavljanje vodovoda u osamdesetim godinama proπlog stoljeÊa, a ni razvoj turizma nije ih trajno vratio. Danas je πkola zatvorena, zakljuËana. Ljeti se naveËer pred njom djeca Ëesto okupljaju i igraju lovice podiæuÊi praπinu na trgu i ta graja odjekuje unutar praznih πkolskih dvorana i hodnika, napuπtenoga uËiteljskog stana - meπtrije - kao jeka nekadaπnjih njezinih uËenika. Poneki razbijen prozor Škojari brzo zamijene, a πkola opet utone u mrak i tiπinu, Ëak i usred sezone. Teπko je danas povjerovati da je puËko πkolstvo na Vrniku imalo gotovo stogodiπnju povijest, od 1868. do 1958., u kojoj se izredalo 18 uËitelja, i to zahvaljujuÊi kapelanima i poglavarima otoka. Oni su uporno nastojali olakπati obrazovanje πkojarskoj djeci kako ne bi morala, u nepovoljnim zimskim uvjetima, ploviti do pola milje udaljene Lumbarde ili do dvije milje udaljenoga grada KorËule. Najvaæniji je cilj ipak bio zadræati ih na otoku kako bi nastavili πkojarsku kamenarsku tradiciju. Ni plesni podij - balarina u neposrednoj blizini veÊ dugo nije u upotrebi, Ëak ni ljeti. Tek poneka barka, izvuËena na plato ukraπen æarama iz kojih rastu mirisni geraniji i agave, ovdje je osuena na polagano umiranje. A nekad se na tom podiju plesalo, uza svirku harmonike, danas zaboravljeni πkojarski ples, siroticu. Kad stigne sezona, otok gotovo postane pretijesan, kao i parkiraliπte na KrmaËi. Zanimljivo je da ste joπ u poËetku devedesetih godina, kad biste se spustili na kameni mol, mogli samo viknuti prema otoku da ste tu. Onaj tko bi vas Ëuo, sjeo bi u barku i doπao po vas. Danas se, vjerojatno, nitko ne bi ni osvrnuo, a vi biste, ako se ni s kime niste prethodno dogovorili, ili rezervirali voænju taksijem, mogli satima Ëekati da vas netko preveze prijeko. Sami Škojari Ëesto spominju kako je nekad na otoku vladalo zajedniπtvo i sloga, i u radu i u dokolici, a danas se ni ljeti viπe ne okupljaju kao nekad na klupama pred crkvom ili kamenom rivom. I boÊaliπte je zapuπteno, zaraslo. ©kojari su se otuili, svi gledaju svoja posla i brinu svoje brige. Ipak, svakoga ljeta, barem jedanput, organizira se velika festa - bilo da je rijeË o koncertu neke gostujuÊe glumaËke trupe ili glazbene skupine; organiziraju je korËulanski i naknadni Škojari, oni koji su prije trideset ili Ëetrdeset godina imali dobar nos i ovdje
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Pogled na dio korčulanskog arhipelaga Partial view of the Korčula Archipelago
jeftino kupili kuÊe. KuÊa PopoviÊ, u kojoj su nekad Ëesto ljetovali poznati glumci, tako Êe ustupiti svoje kazaliπte, sagraeno po uzoru na prave otvorene grËke teatre u kojima je prirodni nagib terena iskoriπten za terase s kojih se pozornica moæe lijepo vidjeti. Toga dana, uvijek u kolovozu, mladeæ preuzme ulogu barkariola i prevozi bezbroj tura s parkirališta na ©koj i natrag. Posjetiocima se nude otoËki proizvodi, od suvenira domaÊe izrade do likera od limuna, rogaËa ili onoga od ruæa, neizostavnoga u pripremi domaÊe roæate πto po njemu i nosi ime. Tu je i ljekovita travarica pripremljena samo od bilja koje raste na Vrniku, koju moæete, u prigodnoj radionici, i sami nauËiti praviti, a tu su i korËulanski kolaËi, ponajprije kroπtule, amareti, klaπuni i cukarini. Ponekad se, za djecu koja ljeti preplave Vrnik, organizira prava dječja škojarska olimpijada sa starinskim disciplinama poput potezanja užeta ili skakanja u vrećama, i svima koji su sudjelovali na kraju podijele šarene diplome. ©koj, povrπine oko treÊine Ëetvornog kilometra, moguÊe je obiÊi pjeπice, najveÊim dijelom stazom uz more. Zatim, penjuÊi se na pedesetak metara visine, prije nego πto zaete u Ëestar, moæete uæivati u πumu vjetra koji uvijek priguπeno huËi u vrhovima Ëempresa, u pogledu na duboku modrinu mora koje se uokrug ljeska i na preostale otoke - od Ëarobnih BisaËa u Ëijim πkrapama valovi oblikuju savrπene oblutke, gdje izmeu 40
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grmova smilja i mirte æive i umiru galebovi, pa sve do svjetionika Sestrice. Nastavite li πetnju traæeÊi zaraslim stazama prolaz kroz gustiπ od Ëesmine, prema Punti obrasloj vrijesom sa sjeverne i lovorom s juæne strane, iznenadit Êe vas mistiËna tiπina - ovdje se, nekim Ëudom, ne Ëuju ni cvrËci niti ptice, koji su dolje uz obalu neumorna zvuËna kulisa. Otok se moæe i oplivati. Neπto viπe od dva kilometra obalne linije zajamËit Êe dobrom plivaËu razgled otoka iz jedinstvene perspektive. Tridesetak otoËkih kuÊa, koje viπe ne nose kuÊne brojeve, zimi opusti, zatvori kapke. Reze na ulazu u njihove vrtove povuËene su, vrata zakljuËana lokotima. ©koj je veÊ u jesen miran i pust. U listopadu od zrelosti raspukli narovi velikoduπno, ni za koga, cijede svoj slatki sok, samonikle maginje dozrijevaju i cvatu istodobno, a svoje crvene jagode nude samo vrniËkim pticama. Proπetate li u prosincu otokom, vidjet Êete grane limuna i naranËi kako se oteæale saginju. Tek potkraj tjedna, kad je lijepo vrijeme, Škojari koji æive u KorËuli doplove, uberu mirisne plodove u svojim ardinima, pakiraju ih u kartonske kutije i autobusima πalju roacima u Zagreb, Split, Dubrovnik. Zato je, kad i oni otplove kuÊi, otok joπ mirniji.
Grožđe Plavac od kojega se pravi vrhunsko vino Plavac grapes famous for excellent wines
Korčulanska djevojčica u narodnoj nošnji A girl from Korčula in traditional costume
Na ©koju ostanu opustjele staze i pokoji nepovjerljiv maËak. Tek Êe poneki galeb, odvojen od jata sklonjenoga negdje visoko, ponad zauvijek utihnulih kâva, briπuÊim letom poremetiti mir otoka, ove Ëudotvorne, ozdravljajuÊe glorijete, vaπega osobnog Umbraculuma, vaπega samotnoga i stjenovitog utoËiπta daleko od bijesa i buke svijeta.
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wenty or so of them are scattered like dark crystals across the navy blue water of the small channel which separates the island of Korčula from the elongated body of Pelješac peninsula. Vrnik is the only island within this archipelago with any permanent inhabitation. The municipal museum of Korčula›s holdings include a very unusual property deed, a stone tablet dating back to the 5th century, which was discovered on the island. The Latin inscription on the stone makes reference to a certain Valentinian and his wife, Sabatia, as the owners of a fish pond on the island. However, based on the evidence of prehistoric and old Roman artefacts found on the neighbouring islets, as well as the famous 3rd century B.C. psephisma of Lumbarda, one of the oldest inscriptions in stone ever found, which bears testimony to the distribution of land among the Greek
colonizers, it may be rightly assumed that the inhabitation of Vrnik started much earlier. Two hundred years ago, a census recorded 86 inhabitants on the islet; fifty years later, there were 173. However, forty years ago, only 55 remained, and today, there are no more than two. Even the last stonemason and his wife have forgone Vrnik’s winters, when the island is left to the mercy of strong winds and solitude reigns. Winds play an important role in the life of the island. Every wind is reputed to have its own soul, particular smell and taste. Vrnik is exposed to the equally powerful forces of the two best known winds. The first one is the unpredictable and gusty bura. It raises foaming waves which break and throw off spume from their crests and make the sea look as if it were boiling or fuming in smoke. It is a cold and dry wind. Occasionally it will collect rain laden clouds on its way to the island before it hits it as the dark bura. At any other times it brings sunny but crisp cold weather. St. Elijah, the highest peak on Pelješac, sometimes manages to save the day and protect the island from the gusts of bura. The mountain’s bare slopes dominate the landscape, but the northerly wind breaks out over the mountain ridge and rushes down the slope with a vengeance. The etymology of
the name Vrnik comes from the word meaning dam (brana or vrana), which shields Korčula and Lumbarda from strong bora wind gusts. There was a time when St. Elijah’s peak served as a huge sundial for the inhabitants of Vrnik who used to tell time according to the way sunlight fell onto its bare rock. To this very day, the peak is believed to predict weather - a cloudy hat on St. Elijah’s head means that a storm is in the offing. The second wind, jugo, also known in these parts as the šilok, has dark grey clouds as its faithful companions. They creep low over the ground, heavily laden with rain. It is here, in the southern part of the Adriatic, that the Jugo often gusts and creates long, regular waves which crash ashore with a roar and continue to reshape the island’s coastline. The waves always take more from it then they bring back to it, and this is how some of the most beautiful small beaches have been created. Another unpleasant wind is the south-westerly lebić or garbin, which is known to gust in winter when it raises the sea level and makes the turbulent waves’ paths cross and crash against the coast; they break bridges and little harbours that were built by human hands. When the weather is bad, if the island had a rudder, it would also sail away. These words were first heard on the occasion of a historical CROATIA AIRLINES
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SUPETAR | ISLAND OF BRAČ
AUGUST 11–13 www.bracfilmfestival.hr
event at the beginning of last century, when inhabitants of Blato on the neighbouring island of Korčula, 1,500 of them, emigrated in a single day, driven away by economic hardships. Skulptura Gospe i rozeta na zabatu crkvice Gospe od Pohođenja Sculpture of Our Lady and rosette at the Church of Our Lady of Visitation
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One needs to be a Jack of all trades to survive on the island. You have to know how to protect and repair your boat, your most important tie with the rest of the world; you have to be able to catch your own fish; you have to have your own best spots for throwing nets and traps; you have to learn how to make your own bread and grow vegetables and fruit from the unyielding island soil; you have to be well versed in olive husbandry and extracting olive oil from the fruit of olive tree... It is easy to find the way to the old manor house in the part once known as the Upper Village. All you have to do is follow the flower trail - so much love has been invested in the unassuming plants which grow ever so close to the sea, defying the impossible conditions; they spring from what seems like bare rock, with almost no soil to speak of, from an abandoned wooden boat, a deflated children’s ball or the trunk of a fallen palm tree. They have to fight scorching heat, winds and salt from the sea. In front of one of the most beautiful and best preserved petrals, as the locals call the abandoned stonemasons’ workshops, there is a raw block of stone, waiting for the old stonemason to take it into his hands and work on it, without any other pressing need but to nourish his soul
and make the melodious beat of stone chiselling resound once again across the island and evoke the times when entire generations of islanders lived off this trade. On the opposite, Lumbarda facing side of the island sheltered from the winds, one will find the so called Bufalo Bay. It is quite likely that nobody will be able to tell you the origins of this unusual name. This is where sculptor Lujo Lozica spends most of his time, creating sculptures and running an art school of sorts in summer. Big stone and marble sculptures are on display in front of his house and atelier. The smooth, white-skinned, curvaceous odalisques stand witness to the beauty and intense sensuality of this environment. As you approach the islands by boat, sailing across the narrow Ježevica channel which separates it from the big and surreally beautiful island of Korčula, you will experience a miraculous change in the sea - it will start appearing more transparent and more fragrant. This fragrance of the sea, reminiscent of freshly cut watermelon, will gradually blend with the island’s seasonal fragrances of tamaris, heather, sage, wild wallflower and scotch broom. Later in the year, it will be the fragrances of laurel, passion flower, cypress
and figs, the heady scents of oleander and myrtle in bloom. Lemon and orange trees may be in bloom at the moment when you dock and at any other time, in any season, you will be welcomed by the intricate, dense and robust fragrance of immortelle; however unassuming it may seem, this tiny plant is still the ruler of this equally unassuming island. Immortelle is the main fuel for July bonfires, which are lit and then, children jump over them on the night before the island’s major holiday, which celebrates Our Lady of the Islets, the patron saint of islands; the holiday is on July 2nd and has been celebrated for more than a hundred years. The statue of Our Lady and reliquary are carried in a procession to the church of Our Lady of Visitation. The reliquary, created by sculptor Hrvoje Ljubić, in order to mark the anniversary of Our Lady of the Islets, features symbols of intricate stonemasonry work, as well as the following verse: As if we can still hear the sounds of the hammer and chisel of hardworking stonemasons, our builders, and when everything reaches its peak, eyes would look up to the sky: Help us, oh Lady! In their courtyards, friendly islanders, who gladly take any guest from Korčula to Vrnik
by boat, offer homemade cake and wine. In short, as the islanders say: Dva luja, all islanders alleluia! The island of Vrnik is one of the rare places in the world whose appearance has been so perceptibly altered by human labour. At least once a day during the tourist season, tour guides bring a boatload of visitors on a quick tour of the island. Their first port of call is kave – the old stone quarries. For centuries, stone extraction and stonemasonry shaped this island and left a mark on its appearance: vertical cliffs, which rise up to 50 meters above sea level depict fishbone patterned lines which were created as a result of the painstaking manual extraction of stone blocks. Stone was not only quarried but also carved on the island. The by-product of the stonemasonry work, škaja, has shaped the island’s jagged landscape, intersected by funnels, canyons and corridors. Through these passages between the heaps of škaja, special wooden contraptions, smuki, reminiscent both of sleighs and a horizontally positioned ladder and oiled with goat’s fat, were used to haul stone blocks to the coast where they were loaded onto ships and transported to their final destinations. Iron tracks were later
put down for carriages to roll on, one of which was preserved in order to remind visitors of the famous stonemasonry days of Vrnik. On this island stone is a living matter, the stuff Crkvica Gospe od Pohođenja iz 1647. godine, graditelja Tome Azalija Church of Our Lady of Visitation, built in 1647 by Tomo Azali
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of legends, the very thing from which man is born. Stone conserves human warmth and maintains its scent. There is a deep, secret bond between the human soul and stone. The transient nature and vulnerability of human beings could well be the reason behind the human adamant desire to break this symbol of eternity, to leave a trace in it, to put the ultimate footprint on it. In these parts, stone is home, in life and in death. Here, stone is a treasure, which makes Vrnik a veritable treasure island. Old Romans discovered the Vrnik stone as they searched for excellent building material to build their palaces. In his 13th century writings, Thomas the Archdeacon referred to Roman slaves who used to work in stone quarries around Korčula during the persecution of Christians. The death sentences they had received for refusing to renounce Christ was mitigated and reduced to forced labour in the underground stone quarries. Of all the islands around Korčula where stone was ever quarried, Vrnik has the longest tradition and as many as five such underground stone quarries. They are demy Lune caves, dug out directly in the mother rock. This technique was employed to circumvent the painstakingly digging to remove the topmost layer composed of the 44
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lesser quality stone. At places, this relatively worthless layer was several meters thick; that is why the best quality stone was extracted by carving straight into the underlying superior quality layer of rock bed, while leaving the upper layers intact. Presently, the interior of these subterranean grotto-like mines, up to 15 meters deep at places, is almost completely filled in with škaja. This manner of stone breaking was completely abandoned in medieval times and substituted by surface quarrying. It may only be assumed that the discovery of gunpowder played a role in that. Stone was excavated in a step-like manner and grooves marking the places where stone blocks were separated from the quarry cliffs are still visible in the old kave. Blocks of stone were extracted in different shapes and sizes to match the final product, be it a column, an oil vessel or any other, as closely as possible. This made the transport and subsequent stone carving a much easier exercise. The Vrnik stone is white and dense limestone; it features an abundance of fossil shells in the upper layer of the rock bed. The deeper one digs into it, the limestone structure becomes cleaner and cleaner until the highest quality stone is revealed as the purest calcium carbo-
nate, a durable material which is not affected by the elements - sun, rain, frost, cold. It will not crumble, fade, loose its shine or become softer even after long exposure to the sea, waves, low and high tides, and it will bear huge loads extremely well. Every islander will tell you with great pride that their stone was used to build many palaces in Korčula and Dubrovnik, as well as a number of other important buildings around the world - the magnificent Hagia Sofia in Istanbul, the flourishing gothic palaces in Venice, parts of the White House in Washington, the Parliament House in Budapest... The stone, white as seagull’s wings, was also used in Zagreb to build the Open University, the Chinese Pavilion on the grounds of the Zagreb Fair and the present Hall of the Croatian Army. Still, perhaps the best known are the buildings in the old city of Dubrovnik which owe their beauty to the Vrnik stone. To mention but a few: the Duke’s Palace, the Church of St. Blaise, the Dominican Church, the city’s clock tower, the monasteries of the Little Brethren, and last but certainly not least, the pavement of the Dubrovnik Stradun, polished by the steps of thousands of strollers.
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Stone quarrying saw its heyday in the 14th century, when the stonemasonry trade burgeoned in Korčula to meet the Dubrovnik master builders’ demand for quality stone. Looking for this indispensable building material, which is the centre of the Croatian building culture and tradition, those masters came to the Vrnik stone quarries and trained local workers in the stone carving trade. At the same time, the town of Korčula saw a transformation from a modest settlement into a unique urban area with an old nucleus reminiscent of a petrified scarab, when seen from above. The demand for stone was fuelled by the subsequent surge in the construction of public buildings - a new cathedral, the walls around the city of Korčula, churches and stone paved streets. And while spiritual life flourished on the neighbouring island of Badija, on Vrnik, which was known to the inhabitants of both Korčula and Vrnik as Škoj (the Island), and its inhabitant as Islanders, secular life and labour bore hewn stone and children. There were times when up to six hundred men worked on the island. They had a well-defined organization and hierarchy. Kavaduri were the ones at the bottom of the pecking order. They were the least paid and the least skilled workers, who-
se job was also the hardest. Traces of their diligent hands’ labour can still be seen on the vertical walls of the abandoned caves. They used to carve narrow channels in the rock, hardly wide and deep enough to hold a man who was supposed to stand in them and keep on hammering away until the moment a stone block could be detached from the rock bed. The figure 1929 is carved in the very top of one of the cliffs, marking the year when it was opened for exploration. It took a few decades to reach its bottom by hammering the stone and creating caves in the process. While toiling away, the unsuspecting kavaduri erected the most wondrous monuments to human labour. Another stone extraction method employed the so-called kunjir. Stone blocks were separated in a step-like manner; slits were cut in stone to create space for wedges and then the stone workers would proceed in unison, on command, and went on hitting the wedges with mullets until the block was separated from the parent mass. In addition to extracting the stone, kavaduri also cleaned the caves from debris, which was initially deposited as a filler material in dry walls and subsequently all over them. As a result, the island’s terrain was reshaped
and hills were created, nowadays overgrown with cypress, laurel and shrubbery. In old photographs, Vrnik is depicted as completely denuded and white, flashing its stone belly to the whole world. Today, forty years after the organized stone quarrying was discontinued, nature has taken its course. The plants have gradually propagated themselves in the stone dust; they have conquered and almost melted the stone, their roots have intersected the rocks and the island has turned green. The more skilled stonemasons worked in petrali, the numerous workshops whose remains currently constitute a somewhat sad attraction of this island; sad, as they stand silent and forgotten, left to a slow decay. Very few still have brick or slate roofs. Their windows are either boarded up or non-existent which
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makes them even more exposed to the sea, winds and curious looks. Both the kavaduri and stonemasons were lead by protomasters or protos, the owners and managers of the workshops and caves. There were as many as 29 stone quarries on the islands at one point and one can only imagine how many different iron tools were used in them, wedges, mullets, picinduri and pikuni, which all had to be repaired at some point. Several forges on the island catered to the stonemasons’ needs in that respect. There were also families who did well from shipping they loaded the stone onto their sailboats and exported it all over the world. On their return journey, their boats carried a ballast of fertile soil which the boat owners offloaded on the island, thus creating little vegetable gardens behind their houses, or two or three flower gardens. The most beautiful garden on Vrnik, the one which belongs to a Korčula dweller, Mrs. Ivica, is hidden among the centrally positioned houses in Poškoj, well shielded from the bura and jugo winds. The beautifully aromatic plants thrive on its terraces: oranges, tangerines, lemons, figs, loquats, jujubes, fava beans, artichokes, rocket, marjoram, thyme, St. John’s wort and many other Mediterranean fruits and herbs, all of them surrounded by a carpet of daffodils, irises, wild freesias, violets and anemones. The most beautiful house on the island, the old, mysterious Villa Fabris is also nestled here. In the 50’s of last century, the number of stone workers, who either commuted to this island or resided there, was cut down to about two hundred as dynamite became more widely used. The explosive accelerated the process of removing the lesser quality top layer from the rock bed, but it also increased the quantity of crushed stone which was created in the process. The debris was hauled in wagonettes and offloaded into the sea. The sea’s appetite for crushed stone was virtually insatiable. Whatever debris could not be swallowed remained on the coast and formed the most beautiful white beaches. The quarries, overgrown with cypress trees, no longer resonate with calls, such as fire in the hole, which was meant to prepare the 46
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quarrymen for an explosion that was about to split a major rock. Once the dust settled, they would go and check if everything had gone well and whether the rock had cracked in the right place. The first stoneworkers resided in neighbouring places - Lumbarda, Korčula, Žrnovo. They sailed across the sea every day to come to work on Vrnik, spending only an occasional night in their workshops. Gradually, some started moving to the island with their families and built houses there. The island is believed to have been resettled in the 17th century. The first settlers, the Portolan, Peručić and Kučija families were followed by the Foretić and Fabris families. The first stonemasons› brotherhood, St. Matthew, was also founded in that century as a religious and welfare association whose tasks included the guildlike protection of its members. Common funds were used to support the sick members and orphaned children; contributions were made towards the young girls› dowries, weddings and funerals. All brotherhoods had their rules, their church patrons, churches, chapels or at least altars, and very often, they had their designated meeting places, the so-called scholas, their common halls and special attire that they wore during religious processions. The baroque church of the Visitation of Our Lady was constructed in the 17th century, in 1674 to be more precise. The charmingly modest building boasts a colourful marble incrustation in the altar stone which was built by Tomo Azali, one of the most active representatives of the centuries’ long stonemasonry tradition in Korčula. His commissions all over the Southern Dalmatian coast included work on the Korčula Cathedral. He was the protomaster for the building of the three-nave base of the cathedral in Hvar; he delivered the carved parts for the façade and belfry of the cathedral in Kotor; he built the Arneri Villa in Blato. The Church of the Visitation of Our Lady is assumed to be one of his last commissions. The current caretakers of the church are the islanders, who decorate its altar with starched lace and fresh flowers. For those of you who may be passing by the church at night: the soft dreamlike light coming through its har-
moniously understated rosette is the light of a candle lit for one of the islanders who have set out on a journey. The oldest building on Vrnik is the 15th century Gabrieli-Ismaeli family manor house which was completely restored a few years ago. Although its shape indicates a possible defensive role, the owners, a noble family from Korčula, used it as their summer residence. The Church of Our Lady of the Island, which was erected at the beginning of last century, is the dominant feature of the island vista such as can be seen from the Krmače promontory on the island of Korčula. This is the closest point of land, on which a parking lot has been built. The church, with its rounded, almost sensuous apse, is the best illustration of the kind of work that the island’s master stonemasons were able to produce. Their successors will not fail to draw your attention to the fact that there is virtually no space between the huge stone blocks from which it was built; there are no seams between them. They were hewn with such precision that they rest snugly one on top of the other, in the fashion of a Doric temple. Right next to the church is the school building which was in function until the end of the 50’s when electricity was brought to the island. Still, when the stone quarry was closed, life started disappearing from the island. At that time, tourism was still a pie in the sky and the island populace started dissipating and finding livelihood first in Korčula, Dubrovnik and Split, then in Zagreb and the rest of the world. The process was not reversed even when water pipes were laid in the eighties of last century. Tourists have come, but even they have failed to bring the islanders back to their island. The school is now closed, locked. In summer, clouds of dust are raised in the square by children who gather in front of it to play hide and seek. Their voices resound across the empty classrooms and corridors, through the abandoned teacher’s quarters, the so-called meštrija, echoing the former students’ buzz. An occasional window pane gets broken and is quickly replaced by the islanders, and the school plunges into darkness and silence once more, even during the summer season. It is hard to believe today that plebeian education on Vrnik spanned almost a hundred years between 1868 and 1958; owing to the chaplains and heads of the island, as many as 18 teachers took turns working during that time. No effort was spared to make the children’s school days lighter. Without a school on the island, they would have had to travel across the stormy sea, half a mile to Lumbarda or
about two miles to the town of Korčula. The most important goal, however, was to keep them on the island and have them continue the island’s stonemasonry tradition. The nearby dance podium has also not been used for many a summer. There are a few wooden boats on it, pulled to shore and condemned to a slow death. In the meantime, they serve as home to flower pots with geraniums and agaves. There was a time when the tune of accordions often brought islanders to this dance floor and engaged them in a sirotica, the popular island dance which has since been forgotten. During the tourist season, both the island and the parking lot at Krmača become almost too small for all those who descend upon the island. Interestingly enough, at the beginning of the 90’s, thus not so long ago, when you came down to the stone jetty, all you had to do was shout across the channel and announce your presence. Whoever heard you first would hop into their boat and come fetch you. Today, chances are that nobody would as much as bat an eyelash if they heard you shouting from the shore. If you had not made previous arrangements or booked a taxi boat you could end up waiting for hours for somebody to ferry you across. The islanders themselves say that once there used to be a sense of unity and accord on the island; that the islanders pulled together as one, in work as well as in play. People no longer seem to flock together as they used to, not even in summer. They do not sit together on the benches in front of the church or on the stone seafront. The bocce playground has also been neglected, overgrown. The islanders have isolated themselves and they mind their own business. Still, at least once every summer, a big event is organized on the island - be it a concert or a play performed by a travelling troupe of actors. It is sponsored by the natives of Korčula and participating islanders, those who showed entrepreneurial spirit and bought property on the island some thirty or forty years ago when it could be had for a song. The Popović house, once a summer retreat for popular actors, rises to the occasion and lends its theatre, modelled after a real Greek open air theatre where the spectators’ terraces, which follow the natural slopes of the terrain, command an excellent view of the stage. On that day, infallibly in August, the young lend a hand and make countless journeys across the sea ferrying guests to the island and back. Visitors are offered indigenous island produce, locally handcrafted souvenirs, liqueurs made from lemon, carob or roses. You will find the latter one to be an important ingredient for
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the preparation of homemade rožata, as well as the inspiration behind the sweet delicacy’s name. One can also taste the medicinal herbal brandy made only with herbs locally grown on Vrnik. A workshop is organized at which they teach you how to make the drink yourself. There are also cakes typical of Korčula: kroštule, amareti, klašuni and cukarini. Numerous children visit Vrnik in the summertime; occasionally, a real Olympic Games for kids is organized, featuring old-time events, such as tug of war or the sack race, and all participants get colourful ribbons in the end. The island’s surface stretches across one third of a square kilometre. You can easily cover it on foot, for the most part along the seaside path. And then, having climbed to the altitude
BLISSFUL VACATION IN CROATIA The only Decléor and Carita institute in the region located in the center of Zagreb, Bliss Institute will give you a much-needed place of peace where you can provide yourselves a unique beauty experience on vacation. If you want to relax your body after a long day visiting many tourist attractions, then spa zone might be just
of some 50 meters above sea level, before you enter the thicket, take a moment to enjoy the subdued murmur of the wind which can always be heard across the cypress tops. Delight in the view of the glittering navy blue sea and the islands: from enchanting Bisače where perfectly rounded pebbles have been moulded by in the island’s karrens, where seagulls live and die among the immortelle and myrtle bushes and the view stretches all the way to the Sestrice lighthouse. Then continue your stroll, look for a passage in the paths overgrown with evergreen Mediterranean oak and head for Punta. You will find it overgrown with heather on the north and laurel on its south side. The mystical silence which reigns there will take you by surprise - as if by a miracle, you will not hear a thing - either crickets or birds, although they tend to provide a relentless acoustic background down by the sea. Swimming around the island is no tall order either. The coastline extends for slightly more than two kilometres and guarantees a good swimmer a sightseeing opportunity from a very unique perspective. In wintertime, the closed shutters indicate that there is nobody home in the thirty or so
houses on the island, which no longer bear numbers. The gates to their gardens are bolted and the front doors are locked. Silence falls on the island as early as autumn. In October, overripe pomegranates burst open and their juices flow generously, albeit for nobody to relish. Self-grown bearberries ripen and bloom at the same time, offering their berries to nobody but Vrnik’s feathered dwellers. A stroll across the island in December will reveal lemon and orange tree bows crushing under their heavy load. The islanders residing in Korčula come only on weekends, when the weather is nice; they pick the fragrant fruits in their gardens, pack them in cardboard boxes and send them off on buses bound for Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik to their relatives who live there. Once they sail back home, the silence on the island becomes even more profound. For a while, an occasional mistrustful tomcat will be the only stroller along its deserted paths. Only the sweeping flight of a solitary seagull, separated from its flock, will disturb the peace of this island, of this miraculous, healing glory, of your personal Umbraculum, your solitary, shady sanctuary tucked far away from the rage and tumult of the world.
the right choice for you. Relax your body completely and face new challenges more alive and eager. In order to achieve optimal results, you can choose a combination of complementary treatments such as aromatherapy massage which will additionally fill you up with energy or you can try a mesotherapy, a method which presents an alternative to esthetic surgery and renews your skin without any pain. You can also try a unique technique of permanent makeup in order to correct small irregularities such as uneven eyebrows, unequal eyes size or lips with unclear contours. Don’t hesitate to see how our professional eyelash extensions suit you. Enjoy your penetrating gaze and thicker lashes that draw sighs during special occasions, but also on everyday activities. If you are in a hurry, faster treatments such as pedicure, manicure, epilation or depilation might be just the right touch to improve your holiday. Also, thanks to the leading Croatian expert in the field of cosmetics and owner of Bliss Institute Jasminka Herceg, in the heart of Zagreb it is possible to find top Carita and Decléor products that are no longer reserved only for the most prestigious world beauty centers such as Paris, Rome, London and New York. Taking into consideration many of our services, let Bliss Institute be one of your favorite stations while you’re in Zagreb. Step into the best beauty studio in Zagreb.
Bliss Institute, Ilica 15/1st floor, Zagreb Reception desk: +385 1 4831 541 Web site: www.bliss.hr Business hours: Mon-Fri: 9:00-21:00, Sat: 9:00-20:00. Working hours in August Mon-Fri: 12:00-20:00, Sat: 8:00-17:00
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I N S T I T U T
АЯ
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ГОЛУ
Ваше путешествие в Хорватию начинается с АТЛАНТИС ХОЛИДЭЙ • оформление визы • отели • трансферы • экскурсии • VIP услуги • MICE
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Discover Croatia with ATLANTIS TRAVEL DMC: • hotels, • tours, • transfers, • VIP service, • MICE
www.atlantis-travel.hr www.destinationadriatic.com
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VALAMAR HOTELS DUBROVNIK Valamar u Dubrovniku domaćin je nezaboravnih sastanaka i događanja Memorable meetings and events with Valamar in Dubrovnik
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čaravajuća obala, kristalno čisto more, atraktivni povijesni lokaliteti, blaga mediteranska klima i 2600 sunčanih sati godišnje čine Dubrovnik savršenim odredištem za održavanje kongresa, sastanaka i insentiva u bilo koje doba godine. Hoteli Valamar u Dubrovniku smješteni su u zapadnom dijelu poluotoka Babin kuk, udaljenome 6 km od povijesne jezgre i 22 km od dubrovačke zračne luke. Hotel Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik 4* najveći je kongresni centar u Dubrovniku s višenamjenskom kongresnom dvoranom kapaciteta do 1200 sudionika te sedam dodatnih dvorana za sastanke. Taj se hotel s ponosom može pohvaliti time da je dvije godine zaredom, 2014. i 2015., osvajao prestižnu turističku nagradu World Travel Awards u kategoriji najboljega poslovnog hotela u Hrvatskoj.
Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel 5*
Valamar Dubrovnik President 5* potpuno je renoviran 2014. godine kako bi svojim gostima pružio nezaboravno iskustvo. Tražite li savršenu lokaciju za održavanje kongresa, insentiva ili drugih događanja u blizini zadivljujuće, stare dubrovačke jezgre, koja je ujedno dovoljno mirna da možete nesmetano uživati u svojoj privatnosti, onda je Valamar Dubrovnik President pravi hotel za vas. Želite li organizirati gala večere ili svečane prijame, oduševit će vas terase s kojih se pružaju panoramski pogledi na Jadransko more i otoke. Mnogo vrhunskih objekata smještenih uz more, bogata ponuda hotela s 5, 4 i 3 zvjezdice na atraktivnim i prostranim lokacijama, nadaleko poznato hrvatsko gostoprimstvo i veoma profesionalno osoblje razlozi su zašto je Valamar najbolji izbor za održavanje kongresa, sastanaka, insentiva i raznih svečanih događanja. Bez obzira na to koju lokaciju odabrali: Istru, otok Krk ili čarobni Dubrovnik, Valamar će vam ponuditi savršen hotel i mjesto koje će vaše događanje učiniti još posebnijim.
Valamar hotels in Dubrovnik are located on the west side of the peninsula Babin kuk, only 6 km from the Dubrovnik’s Old City, and 22 km from the International Dubrovnik Airport. Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik 4* is the largest conference venue in Dubrovnik with the capacity to host 1,200 delegates in a multi-purpose conference hall, and even has seven additional meeting rooms. This hotel is the proud recipient of the prestigious 2014 and 2015 World Travel Awards as Croatia’s Leading Business Hotel. In 2014 Valamar Dubrovnik President 5* underwent an extensive renovation in order to provide its guests with the ultimate experience. If you are looking for a perfect venue for an event that is close to Dubrovnik’s stunning old quarter, and
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ubrovnik is the ideal MICE destination all year round in which you can find your ideal venue with its stunning coastline, clear seas, fascinating historical sites, mild Mediterranean climate, and 2,600 hours of sunshine per year. yet peaceful enough to give you the privacy you need, look no further than Valamar Dubrovnik President. For banquets and receptions, you will love the terraces with the panoramic view of the Adriatic Sea and islands. With an extensive selection of prime seafront properties, diverse choice of 5*, 4*, and 3* hotels within walking distance on attractive locations with spatial resources, renowned Croatian hospitality, and highly professional staff, Valamar is the premium choice for all MICE and celebratory events. Whichever location you choose; Istria, island Krk, or the enchanting city of Dubrovnik, Valamar Hotels and Resorts can match you with a perfect hotel and venue to make your special event even more special.
Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik Hotel 4*
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OBALA COAST
Piπe/By Miroslav Juhant Fotografije/Photos Alan Grubelić 54
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Ugledni belgijski portal European Best Destinations proglasio je Zadar najboljim europskim turističkim odredištem za 2015. godinu. Zadar je na istom portalu nominiran i među najromantičnije europske gradove zajedno sa Zagrebom, Dubrovnikom, Rovinjom, Ninom i Opatijom, što svjedoči o velikoj atraktivnosti hrvatskih turističkih destinacija. The renowned Belgian online portal, European Best Destinations, proclaimed Zadar as the best European tourist destination in 2015. On the same portal, Zadar was also nominated as one of the most romantic European cities, along with Zagreb, Dubrovnik, Rovinj, Nin and Opatija, which shows that Croatian tourist destinations are indeed very popular.
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Poznati umjetnici svijeta rekli su da Zadar s pogledom na srednjodalmatinske otoke ima najljepĹĄe zalaske sunca na svijetu, pa je tako i nastao Pozdrav suncu, nezaobilazna turistiÄ?ka atrakcija. World renowned artists have said that Zadar, with its view of the Central Dalmatian islands, has the most beautiful sunsets in the world, and that is what inspired the Greeting to the Sun, must see tourist attraction.
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Narodni trg People’s Square
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Katedrala sv. StoĹĄije Cathedral of St. Anastasia Kopnena vrata
Kopnena vrata
Land Gate
Land Gate
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Katedrala sv. StoĹĄije Cathedral of St. Anastasia CROATIA AIRLINES
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Crkva sv. Donata Church of St. Donatus
Pješacki most u uvali Jazine Pedestrian bridge over Jazine Bay
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adar je zbog rada cijele turističke zajednice dobio prestižno priznanje, ispred turističkih meka Europe, Pariza, Londona, Rima, Barcelone, Praga… Pobjeda Zadra, proglašavanjem najboljim europskim odredištem, priznanje je ukupnome hrvatskom turizmu, a tako se Zadar pozicionirao na turističkim kartama svijeta i iskazao svoju osobitost i identitet. Koliko se god Hrvatska činila mala u usporedbi sa svjetskim silama, svako novo priznanje Hrvatskoj podsjeti nas da živimo na veoma lijepom dijelu planeta Zemlje. Zadarske morske orgulje dospjele su tako u dio udžbenika jedne škole u New Yorku, kao svjetska senzacija, a poglavlje music of the sea, nalazi se u vježbenici neke osnovne škole u Velikoj Britaniji. Poznati umjetnici svijeta rekli su da Zadar s pogledom na srednjodalmatinske otoke ima najljepše zalaske sunca na svijetu, pa je tako i nastao Pozdrav suncu, gdje se u postavljenim staklenim pločama na obali uživa u sunčevu zalasku. Sve to uz bogatu i burnu povijest čini Zadar poželjnim turističkim odredištem. Zadar je drevni grad sagrađen na središnjem dijelu hrvatskoga Jadranskog mora. Datira tri tisuće godina unatrag, grad duge burne
i dinamične povijesti, često rušen, pljačkan i razaran, a svaki bi put iz ruševina izrastao jači, ljepši i bogatiji. U povijesti se Zadar prvi put pojavljuje u četvrtom stoljeću prije Krista kao naselje ilirskog plemena Liburni, spominje se oblik imena Jader, a prolazeći povijesni put, ime se mijenja u Idassa (grčki izvor), Jadera (rimski izvor), Diadora, Zara (za vladavine Venecije i poslije Italije) do današnjeg imena Zadar. Nakon 59 g. pr. Krista postaje kolonija rimskih gradova. Pod vladavinom Rimljana, Zadar poprima obilježje grada s pravilnom mrežom ulica i sagrađenim glavnim trgom - forumom, a do njega povišeni kapitolij s hramom. U sedmom stoljeću Zadar postaje središte (glavni grad) bizantskog temata provincije Dalmacije. U početku devetog stoljeća Zadar se spominje kao sjedište biskupa Donata i bizantskog vođe Paulusa. U tom razdoblju podiže se na rimskom forumu crkva Presvetog Trojstva, danas sv. Donata, za koju se može reći da je znamen grada Zadra. Veće naseljavanje Hrvata zabilježeno je u 10. stoljeću. Iz toga vremena sačuvani su temelji romaničke crkve Svete Marije, te crkve sv. Krševana i katedrale sv. Stošije. U početku trinaestog stoljeća grad spaljuju križari i Mlečani. Poslije toga grade se prve gotičke crkve u Dalmaciji, sv. Franje i sv. Dominika, a od umjetničkog blaga tog vremena
Zlato i srebro Zadra- crkva sv. Marije / The Gold and Silver of Zadar - the Church of St. Mary
treba izdvojiti pozlaćenu srebrnu škrinju - kovčeg sv. Šimuna. A 15. i 16. stoljeće obilježeni su značajnim aktivnostima hrvatskih pisaca koji pišu na narodnome hrvatskom jeziku, Petar Zoranić, Brne Karnarutić, Šime Budinić, Jerolim Vidulić. Nakon Venecije prvi put vlast nad Zadrom preuzimaju Austrijanci na kraju osamnaestog stoljeća, a poslije Francuzi od 1806. do 1813.g. Druga austrijska vlast potrajala je do kraja Prvoga svjetskog rata 1918. godine, a Zadar i dalje zadržava status glavnoga grada kraljevine Dalmacije i sjedište je dalmatinskog sabora i Arheološki muzej / Archaeological Museum
Zlato i srebro Zadra- crkva sv. Marije The Gold and Silver of Zadar - the Church of St. Mary CROATIA AIRLINES
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Crkva sv. Donata Church of St. Donatus
Trg pet bunara Five Wells Square
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crkvene metropolije za čitavu Dalmaciju. Rapalskim ugovorom Zadar je 1920. godine pripojen Italiji kao enklava na istočnoj obali Jadrana. U njezinu sastavu Zadar je ostao sve do kraja Drugoga svjetskog rata u kojemu je tijekom teških savezničkih bombardiranja razoreno sedamdeset posto povijesne jezgre grada. Gotovo potpuno razoren i napušten, napokon je pripojen Hrvatskoj u sklopu Federativne Jugoslavije. Nakon proglašenja neovisnosti Republike Hrvatske i srpske agresije na Hrvatsku, Zadar i njegovo zaleđe napadnuti su u listopadu 1991. godine neviđenom silom kako bi se osvojio i uništio grad. Sam grad bio je u potpunom okruženju više puta granatiran i najbrutalnije razaran, a znatno je oštećena stoljetna povijesna arhitektura. Danas je grad Zadar sačuvani spomenik različitih povijesnih vremena i kultura, koje su postavile granice i vidljive konture njegova urbana izgleda, a kao i tijekom mimulih stoljeća burne povijesti, čuvaju ga i dalje njegova četiri sveca zaštitnika: sv. Krševan, sv. Šimun, sv. Stošija i sv. Zoilo. Zadar je danas poveznica trajektima s većinom srednjodalmatinskih otoka, a sve više stranih turista ne prolazi samo kroz Zadar, nego kao sve zahtjevniji turistički
globtroteri ostaju u Zadru na ljetovanju zbog bogatih muzejskih zbirki, sakralnih i svjetovnih građevina, koje su nasreću sačuvane tijekom povijesti, te, dakako, zbog bogate gastronomske ponude i obilja atraktivnih mjesta za provod, zabavu, odmor i uživanje.
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hanks to the efforts of the entire tourist board, Zadar won this prestigious award in a competition that included European tourism meccas, such as Paris, London, Rome, Barcelona, Prague… Zadar’s victory and proclamation as the best European destination is recognition for Croatian tourism as a whole, not to mention it has put Zadar itself on the global tourism map, revealing its personality and identity to the world. As small and insignificant as Croatia may seem next to global powers, each new acknowledgement reminds us that we live on a really beautiful part of planet Earth. Zadar’s sea organ made it into a New York school textbook and was a global sensation, while an elementary school textbook in Great Britain contains a chapter called, Music of the Sea. World renowned artists have said that Zadar, with its view of the Central Dalmatian islands, has the most beautiful sunsets in the world, and that is what inspired the Greeting
Trg Petra Zoranića Petar Zoranić Square
Gradska tržnica Town market
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NajljepĹĄi zalaz sunca na svijetu The most beautiful sunset in the world
to the Sun, an installation consisting of glass panels positioned along the shore where visitors can enjoy daily sunsets. All of this, along with a rich and turbulent past, makes Zadar a very desirable tourist destination. Zadar is an ancient city built on the Central Adriatic coast of Croatia. It is three thousand years old, and it has had a long, turbulent and dynamic past. It was often destroyed and pillaged, but each time, it would rise from the ruins stronger, richer and more beautiful than before. The first mention of Zadar dates back to the 4th century BC as a settlement of an Illyrian tribe of Liburnians called Jader. Throughout history, it has been referred to as Idassa (Greek source), Jadera (Roman source), Diadora and Zara (during Venetian rule and after Italy), and finally Zadar, the contemporary name. After 59 BC, it became a colony of Roman cities. Ruled by the Romans, Zadar became a city with an even grid of streets and a main square - the forum, with an elevated capitolium and a temple. In the 7th century, Zadar became the centre (capital city) of the Byzantine province of Dalmatia. At the beginning of the 9th century, Zadar was mentioned as the seat of Bishop Donatus and Byzantine 66
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Morske orgulje Sea Organ
ruler Paulus. During this period, the church of Holy Trinity, nowadays called the Church of St. Donatus, one of the main landmarks in the city, was built on the Roman Forum. The first major inhabitation of Croats occurred in the 10th century. Foundations of the Roman church of St. Mary, as well as the churches of St. Chrysogonus and the cathedral of St. Anastasia of Sirmium are the remains mostly preserved from that period. At the beginning of the 13th century, the city was burned to the ground by the Crusaders and the Venetians. After that, the first Gothic churches in Dalmatia, St Francis and St. Dominic, were constructed, out of which came the most valuable artefact from the period - the gilded silver chest of St. Simeon. The 15th and 16th centuries were marked by significant activity by Croatian writers who wrote in the national Croatian language, including Petar Zoranić, Brne Karnarutić, Šime Budinić, Jerolim Vidulić… After Venice, Austrians took over the rule of Zadar for the first time in the late 18th century, and later, it was ruled by the French between 1806 and 1813. The second Austrian rule lasted until the end of the First World War in 1918, while Zadar remained the capital city of the Kingdom of Dalmatia as well as the seat of
Pogled iz sobe hostela View from a hostel room
Arheološki muzej Archaeological Museum
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Pogled sa zvonika katedrale sv. StoĹĄije
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the Dalmatian parliament and the ecclesiastical province of Dalmatia. With the signing of the Treaty of Rapallo in 1920, Zadar became part of Italy as an enclave on the eastern side of the Adriatic. Zadar remained part of Italy until the end of the Second World War, when seventy percent of the historic city centre was destroyed by heavy allied bombardment. Almost completely destroyed and abandoned, it finally became part of Croatia within the Federative Republic of Yugoslavia. After the Declaration of Independence of the Republic of Croatia and the Serbian aggression on Croatia, Zadar and its hinterland were ferociously attacked in October of 1991. The city was surrounded, shelled numerous times and brutally destroyed, while the centuries old historic architecture was once again significantly damaged. Nowadays, Zadar is a monument to different historic periods and cultures, which have set the boundaries and the visible outlines of its urban image; throughout many turbulent centuries, it has been protected by four of its patron saints: St. Chrysogonus, St. Simeon, St. Anastasia of Sirmium and St. Zoilus. Zadar is, nowadays, also a hub for ferry connections with most central Dalmatian islands, and an increasing number of tourists and demanding globetrotters do not just pass through Zadar anymore, but spend their entire holidays there, enjoying diverse museum collections and sacral and secular architecture, which has, fortunately, been well-preserved throughout history; of course, tourists can also enjoy the rich local cuisine and partake in the many things to do and see there - whether they be for entertainment or for rest and relaxation. î ?
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GASTRONOMIJA GASTRONOMY
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voju romantiku Samobor podastire u svako godišnje doba, osvaja ili cvjetnim slapovima što s prozora vise na rijeku Gradnu, ili šuštavim lišćem po gradskim parkovima, ili bajkovitom zimskom bjelinom oko kapelica poput opjevane sv. Ane, ili proljetnim stazama po zelenilu okolnih brežuljaka Stražnika, Hajdovčaka i Gradišća. To je tek eksterijer za šetnju koju, htjeli-ne htjeli, morate završiti degustirajući zamamne okuse i mirise Sanobora, kako Samobor zovu domaćim kajkavskim u brojnim vedrim napitnicama poput one koja desetljećima nasmijava jer Samoborci piju vino z lonci, a Samoborke piju z demižonke. I brbljava Sraka, središnji lik ove godine već 190. samoborskog fašnika, umije se šaliti na vlastiti račun, ali i nagovarajući svakoga da stavi masku, jer bedaki noriju saki dan, a pametni samo na fašnik. Ili se barem slade samoborskim krafnima i kremšnitama. Očekuju vas cijele godine, baš kao i brojni šarmantni, pitoreskni lokali, od gostionice Gabrek 1929., koja tradiciju nosi i u imenu i u tanjuru, kao i Stara vura, Samoborska klet, Samoborska pivnica, Lavica, Livadić sve do novijih kao što je Zeleni papar. Čim zatopli, cijeli trg postaje gradskom terasom. Što da odaberete za jelo? Ovisno o ukusu te o godišnjem dobu, ponudit će vam starinska samoborska jela kao što su češnjovke i krvavice uz dinstano kiselo zelje ili, uz odličan svježi sir s vrhnjem, salamu iz koje je najprije izrasla Samoborska salamijada, ove se godine u
I kad gastroturizam nije bio in, Samobor, gradić nedaleko od Zagreba, dočekivao je gostoljubivim stolom i domaćim jelima i pićima u svojim gostionicama, izletištima i šetalištima te toplicama i kupalištima. Vikendom su sa samoborčeka, uskotračnoga otvorenog vlaka, visjeli grozdovi raspjevanih izletnika. Even when gastro tourism was not quite in, Samobor - a town in the vicinity of Zagreb, always greeted its guests with tables full of homemade dishes and drinks at its numerous restaurants, promenades and spas. Numerous cheerful passengers of the Samoborček narrow gauge train flocked to Samobor on the
Piπe/By Božica Brkan
weekends.
Fotografije/Photos Romeo Ibrišević
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ožujku održala već 29., a onda i ugledni brend Samoborska salama. Od svega što su nekad kod kuće iznosili na stol, sva turbulentna vremena preživio je, i u nacionalnim okvirima popularan, samoborski kotlet, a, nekad uglavnom sajamska ili proštenička, ponovno osvaja i samoborska kotlovina, ukusno jelo iz šešira od različitih vrsta mesa, koje je, razlikovnom od svih drugih kotlovina sjeverozapadne Hrvatske, učinio komadić svježega bunceka. Preporuke zaslužuju i jela od namirnica uzgojenih ili ubranih u okolici, poput riječne ribe, posebice dimljene pastrve, šumskih gljiva i slično. Uza svako će vam jelo Samoborci ponuditi i lokalno vino. Ne propustite kušati ona koja nude desetljećima, primjerice portugizac i cviček, te gemišt i špricer, baš kao u kultnome hrvatskom filmu Tko pjeva, zlo ne misli. Ne zaboravite ponijeti i neki od samoborskih gastrosuvenira. Samoborski licitar nije nužno uobičajeno slikovito srdašce s ljubavnom porukom nego još slikovitiji pjetlić prešarena repa koji će vam, kad god ga pogledate, popraviti raspoloženje. Dvojite li između bermeta, likeradesertnog vina od mošta i pelina, i muštarde, zanimljivoga senfa koji odlično pristaje uza svaku, a osobito samoborsku češnjovku i uz kuhano meso i pečenke, ponesite oba ta proizvoda koje živim održava obitelj Filipec. Podsjetit će vas na vremena kada je Samobor pohodila Napoleonova armada ostavivši nesvakidašnju ukusnu ostavštinu. Poduzetni i maštoviti Samoborci, oslobođeni vlastelinskoga gospodstva u svome kraljevskom trgovištu još od Kolomana i Bele IV. u 13. stoljeću, nisu zadovoljni samo povijesnom gastronomskom baštinom, nego nove doživljaje stvaraju osmišljavajući i brojne priredbe. Poslije fašnika, u početku ožujka, organizirali su ponovno bitku kod Samobora kao 1441., kada se vojska kraljice-udovice Elizabete i moćnih grofova celjskih sudarila s vojskom poljskoga kralja Vladislava Jagelovića. Slijedio je Samoborski proljetni sajam i 29. samoborska salamijada. U početku srpnja trodnevni 31. dani rudarske greblice, s jelom zaštićenim kao nematerijalna nacionalna baština, dočekuju goste u Rudama, uz rudnik, dakako. U rujnu slijede Samoborski medni dani i Tisućljeća kulinarstva u Parku prirode Žumberak Samoborsko gorje s pretpovijesnim slastima. Martinje, u studenome, ponovno će krstiti mošt i peći kestene iz samoborskih šuma. Dio svoje gastrobaštine Samoborci su sačuvali uknjiženom i u monografiji Samobor (prvo izdanje 1915., pretisak 1992.) Milana Langa, Kuharici bake Ivke (2006.) Milana Žegarca Peharnika, Maloj samoborskoj kuharici (2013.) Lele Roćenović, Svi gurmanski putovi vode u Samobor itd. Kultura samoborskoga stola 74
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zanimljivo je povezana s gradskom poviješću i kulturom. Julijani Chantilly zaljubljeni Stanko Vraz još je 1837. ispjevao slavne Đulabije: (Ljubice nemila/Ti moj nepokoju!...). Pjesnici se i danas okupljaju na Ljubici slaveći besmrtnu
ljubav, a Samoborci iznenađuju i slatkom kremom Chantilly, Ljubičinom prezimenjakinjom, koja također potječe iz ugledne samoborske ljekarničke obitelji nesuđene Vrazove ljubavi. Iz zaborava su Samoborci, da se osladi tko voli, u ponudu izvukli i tortu od badema, naranača, oraha i marmelade od ribiza, nazvanu po Mariji Hotković, gorljivoj pripadnici Ilirskoga pokreta, kojoj je slavni Samoborac Ferdo Livadić posvetio znameniti Nocturno u fis-molu. No, ako vam je makar po glazbenome ukusu bliskiji, nećete pogriješiti ni s omiljenim, još jednim duhovitim samoborskim gastroljubavnim savjetom: Koj’ na srcu ima feler, navek mora jesti celer!
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amobor is romantic at all times of the year; it wins over visitors with its cascades of flowers which flow from the balconies over the Gradna River, and the rustling leaves scattered across the town parks, as well as the magical winter whiteness around the numerous chapels, such as the famous Chapel of St. Ana, and the green spring paths of the surrounding hills of Stražnik, Hajdovčak and Gradišće. This, however, is just one part of a stroll, which must end, whether you like it or not, by sampling the rich flavours and aromas of Sanobor - which is how the locals refer to Samobor in their kajkavian dialect in numerous jolly drinking songs, including the one that has been a source of laughter for many decades: The men of Samobor drink wine from cups, and the women of Samobor drink 76
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it straight from the bottle. Even chatty Sraka, the main character of the Samobor Carnival, taking place in its 190th edition this year, can make jokes at its own expense, but also goes around persuading everyone to wear a mask because only fools go crazy every day, while smart people only do it during carnival. One can enjoy the doughnuts and cremschnitte of Samobor at the very least! Numerous charming and picturesque restaurants are open for business all year round, such as Gabrek 1929, which reflects tradition in its name and dishes alike, Stara Vura, Samoborska Klet, Samoborska Pivnica, Lavica and Livadić, as well as newer establishments such as Zeleni Papar. As soon as the weather becomes warmer, the entire main square becomes a large town terrace. What to eat? Depending on personal taste and the season of the year, one can expect to find the old fashioned dishes of Samobor, such as češnjovke (garlic) sausages and blood sausages served with stewed sauerkraut, or excellent fresh cheese and cream and salami, which sparked the tradition of Salamijada - the Samobor salami festival, which took place in its 29th edition this March, and the renowned Salami of Samobor brand in general. Among the many dishes served on household tables for numerous generations, all of the turbulent times were survived by the nationally popular Samobor cutlets. Also popular is the Samobor kotlovina, a tasty mixed meat platter, distinguished from similar dishes of north-western Croatia by the addition of fresh ham hock, and it is mostly served at fairs and carnivals. Dishes made from produce coming from the surroundings of Samobor, such as freshwater fish, especially smoked trout, forest mushrooms and such, are also well worth a mention. The locals of Samobor will offer homegrown wine with each dish. Make sure to taste the ones with decades long traditions, such as Portugieser and Cviček, as well as spritzers made popular by the Croatian cult classic film - One Song a Day Takes Mischief Away. Don’t forget to take some of the gastro souvenirs of Samobor with you. The licitar of Samobor is not always a commonplace, colourfully decorated heart shaped biscuit featuring a love message, but it can also be an even more colourful rooster with a decorated tail, the sight of which immediately improves one’s mood. If you are deciding between bermet, a dessert wine liqueur made from must and wormwood, or muštarda, an interesting sort of mustard which goes perfectly with any kind of sausages and meat, we recommend you get both products from the Filipec family. It will remind you of the times when Napoleon’s
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armada passed through Samobor, leaving an unusually tasty legacy. Business minded and imaginative citizens of Samobor, freed from the rule of nobility since King Coloman and Bela IV in the 13th century, have not satisfied themselves with their historic gastronomic heritage, but they have instead created new experiences by introducing numerous events. After carnival, in early March, there was a re-enactment of the 1441 Battle of Samobor, when the army of widowed Queen Elisabeth and the powerful Counts of Celje clashed with the army of Polish King Vladislaus II. The Samobor Spring Fair and the 29th Samobor Salamijada are scheduled after that. In early July, during a three-day event marking the 31st Miners’ Cake Day, greblica, a cake protected as intangible national heritage, will welcome guests at Rude - next to the mine, of course. September is time for the Samobor Honey Days, featuring the most modern sweet treats, as well as the Millennia of Cooking at the Žumberak Nature Park - Samoborsko Gorje, featuring ancient sweet treats. During St. Martin’s Day, in November, locals will once again be christening must and roasting chestnuts from the Samobor woods. The locals of Samobor have preserved part of their gastronomic heritage in print in the monograph Samobor (first edition 1915, reprint 1992) by Milan Lang, The Cookbook of Grandma Ivka (2006) by Milan Žegarac Peharnik, The Little Cookbook of Samobor (2013) by Lela Roćenović, All Gourmet Paths Lead to Samobor, etc. The culture of the Samobor table is interestingly tied to the city’s past and culture. Back in 1837, love-struck Stanko Vraz wrote his famous Đulabije: (Ljubica unmerciful/You are my trepidation!) for Julijana Chantilly. Poets gather at Ljubica to this day, celebrating immortal love, while the locals of Samobor also surprise with sweet Chantilly cream, Ljubica’s namesake, which also stems from the renowned family of Samobor pharmacists that Vraz’s would-be love belonged to. Fans will be glad to know that the cake made from almonds, oranges, walnuts and currant marmalade, named after Marija Hotković, an outspoken member of the Illyrian movement, whom the renowned resident of Samobor - Ferdo Livadić dedicated his Nocturno in F-sharp minor to, has been saved from oblivion by the locals. Another piece of witty advice, popularized in a song which originates from Samobor and draws inspiration from food and love, may be your cup of (musical) tea: For all ailments cardiac, always eat celeriac! 78
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KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA INLAND CROATIA
Sedmu godinu zaredom Vitezovi zelingradski stoluju u svome gradu, koji postaje prava turistička atrakcija. Tada ostavljaju svoje mobitele i ostala elektronička čuda današnje tehnike i na puna tri dana odlaze u daleku prošlost. Turisti mogu vidjeti doista pravi mali srednjovjekovni grad. For the seventh year in a row, the Knights of Zelingrad dwell in their city, which then becomes a true tourist attraction. They leave their mobile phones and other electronic gadgets behind and make a three-day journey into the distant past. Tourists will then be able to see a real small medieval town.
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v. Ivan Zelina gradić je samo tridesetak kilometara udaljen od Zagreba. Kao spomenik kulture i povijesne baštine zelinskog kraja svojim značenjem ističe se Zelingrad, srednjovjekovni castrum koji se nalazi na sjeveroistočnim obroncima Medvednice, 5 km sjeverno od grada Sveti Ivan Zelina. U povijesnim izvorima spominje se pod raznim imenima, kao Zelyn, Zelna, Zelnawar, ponekad kao castrum, a ponekad kao castellum. Sagrađen je u godinama nakon provale Tatara, a prvi put spominje se u ispravi iz 1295. godine kada se u njemu nalazio kaštelan s kraljevskom posadom. Sedmu godinu zaredom Vitezovi zelingradski stoluju u svome gradu, koji postaje prava turistička atrakcija. Osnovani su 2007. godine kao udruga koja se bavi proučavanjem srednjovjekovne povijesti i načina života svoga grada iz 15. i 16. stoljeća.
Vitezovi zelingradski imaju 35 članova specijaliziranih za pojedina područja poput mačevanja, bojnih naprava, streličarstva, vatrenog oružja, konjaništva, srednjovjekovne kuhinje, srednjovjekovnih kostima i numizmatike. Udruga ima bogat srednjovjekovni viteški tabor s desetak šatora i mnogo viteške opreme, zbog čega je rado viđen gost na brojnim viteškim događanjima u Hrvatskoj te širom Europe. Članovi udruge i sami izrađuju svu potrebnu opremu prema pravilima srednjovjekovne struke, dakle starim alatima i vještinama. Udruga surađuje s više od 50 srodnih viteških udruga, asocijacija, te raznih drugih skupina i entuzijasta u Hrvatskoj i inozemstvu. Jedan je od najvećih viteških turnira Bitka kod Svete Helene nadomak Sv. Ivanu Zelini, a ove godine održat će se od 1. do 3. srpnja u čast pobjede hrvatske vojske protiv Turaka 1557. godine.
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Stari bazeni kraj Svete Helene vratit će vas nekoliko stoljeća unatrag u neka romantičnija vremena. Kao i proteklih godina, najavljeni su vitezovi iz Poljske, Mađarske, Slovenije, Njemačke, Austrije te Italije. Svi oni puna tri dana i noći živjet će u srednjovjekovnim šatorima, a neki od njih i pod vedrim nebom spremajući hranu u kotlovima kraj otvorene vatre. Vitezovi tada ostavljaju svoje mobitele i ostala elektronička čuda današnje tehnike i na puna tri dana odlaze u daleku prošlost. Turisti tada mogu vidjeti doista pravi mali srednjovjekovni grad, sprave za mučenje, trgovinu kakva je nekoć bila, alate, oružje, kao i do dvadesetak kilograma teške viteške oklope... Valja napomenuti da je oružje iskovano baš kao što se to nekoć radilo, a riječ je o pravom oružju. Borbe su doista prave srednjovjekovne i bez simulacija, a dopušteno je sve osim uboda, koji su zabranjeni. Turisti i posjetitelji doslovno mogu uživati gledajući povijesni spektakl kao iz vremeplova. Osim hrabrih i već pomalo zaboravljenih vitezova koje krasi istinsko viteštvo, rivalstvo i odanost spram dama, ovdje možete sresti i princeze ratnice poput Xene, koje se bore jednakom žestinom, pa čak i bolje od mnogih vitezova muške populacije. Vitezovi, ratnice, dame, štitonoše i ostali srednjovjekovni puk ljudi su različitih profila zanimanja, a sve njih zajedno veže ljubav prema nekim davnim zaboravljenim i romantičnim vremenima kada je viteška čast i odanost, za razliku od današnjih vremena, bila način života i osobno zadovoljstvo. Na samo pola sata vožnje od Zagreba vrijedi vidjeti uživo spektakl koji ste dosad gledali samo na filmu. Zavirite u prošlost kušajući srednjovjekovne specijalitete i izvrsna zelinska vina, uživajući u prizorima povijesti kakvu još niste vidjeli... osim možda na filmu.
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v. Ivan Zelina is a small town, only about 30 km from Zagreb. The principal cultural and historical heritage monument of the Zelina region is Zelingrad, a medieval castrum situated on the north-east slopes of Medvednica Mountain, 5 km to the north of Sveti Ivan Zelina. In historical sources, it is mentioned under different names, such as Zelyn, Zelna, Zelnawar, sometimes as castrum, and other times as castellum. It was built after the Tatar invasion, and was first mentioned in a 1295 document, when it was occupied by the military commander and the royal crew. For the seventh year in a row, the Knights of Zelingrad dwell in their city, which then becomes a true tourist attraction. They were founded in 2007 as an association for studying medieval history and the city’s way of life in the 15th and 16th centuries.
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Srednja Dalmacija Vam nudi odmor iz snova! Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/I, 21000 Split, Croatia tel/fax: +385 (0) 21
490 032; 490 033; 490 036
Umorni ste? Sanjate o opuštanju, najljepšem zalazu sunca i smiraju dana na prekrasnoj plaži, toplim noćima punim zabave i doživljaja, srdačnim ljudima i odmoru kakav ste zaslužili? Sve to i puno više pružit će Vam, tek na korak od Vas, Srednja Dalmacija, srce hrvatskog Jadrana. Za samo nekoliko sati vožnje iz svih djelova Hrvatske, izvrsnom auto-cestom ili brojnim avio-vezama s otokom Bračem i Splitom, stići ćete u prekrasne mediteranske krajolike očuvane prirode i kristalno čistog mora, uživati u zdanjima svjetske kulturne baštine, otkriti jedinstvene plaže, zeleno zaleđe, živopisne gradove s bogatom povijesti, atraktivne manifestacije i odličnu gastronomiju. Mi čuvamo mjesto za svakog putnika, dođite i otkrijte svoj odmor iz snova.
Central Dalmatia offers you a dream vacation! Are you tired and weary? Do you dream about relaxing at a beautiful beach while watching the most beautiful sunsets? Would you like to spend your warm evenings, enjoying friendly people and fun experiences? All of this and more is only a step away. This is the vacation you deserve and it is waiting for you in Central Dalmatia - The heart of Adriatic. Flying from ninety European cities, you can be in the City of Split, which is the centre of this region.
You can then enjoy the beautiful Mediterranean landscapes of preserved nature, the buildings of the world’s cultural heritage, and discover unique beaches and the crystal clear sea. Green hinterland, picturesque towns with rich history, invite you to participate in events and festivals and the exquisite gastronomy of this region. Come and discover your dream vacation. CROATIA AIRLINES
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With their 35 members, the Knights of Zelingrad have specialized in individual fields, such as fencing, battle equipment, archery, cavalry, medieval cuisine, costumes and numismatics. The association has a medieval knights’ encampment with a dozen tents and an abundance of medieval equipment, which makes it a welcome guest at numerous knight events across Croatia and around Europe. Members of the association also make all the necessary equipment in accordance with the rules of medieval trade, that is, they use old-fashioned tools and skills. The association works with more than 50 similar knights’ associations and other diverse organizations and enthusiasts in Croatia and abroad. One of the largest knights’ tournaments is the Battle of Sveta Helena near Sv. Ivan Zelina, which will be held this year from July 1-3, commemorating the victory of the Croatian army against the Ottoman Empire in 1557. The former swimming pools near Sveta Helena will take visitors back several centuries to more romantic times. Like in previous years, the arrival of knights from Poland, Hungary, Germany, Austria and Italy is expected. They will spend three full days and nights in medieval tents, some of them under the stars, preparing their food in cauldrons over an open fire. The knights will leave their mobile phones and other electronic gadgets behind and make a three-day journey into the distant past. Tourists will then be able to see a real small medieval town, torturing devices, trade as it once was, tools, weapons, and armor weighing up to 20 kg... It should be noted that the weapons are real and have been forged using traditional methods. The fights are also authentically medieval with no simulations, and everything is allowed except moves causing bodily harm. Tourists and visitors are truly able to enjoy a historical spectacle as if they had travelled back in time. In addition to the courageous and somewhat forgotten knights who are distinguished by true gallantry, rivalry and chivalry towards ladies, here you can encounter warrior princesses like Xena, who fight as fiercely as, and sometimes even better than many knights of the male sex. Knights, women warriors, ladies, squires and other medieval folk of different professions are brought together by their shared love of ancient, forgotten and romantic times, when knightly honour and loyalty, unlike today, was a way of life and a sense of personal gratification. It is well worth your time to see the live spectacle, only a half an hour’s drive from Zagreb. Take a peek into the past, taste medieval delicacies and Zelina’s excellent wines, savoring historical scenes unlike anything you have seen before... except maybe on film! 84
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WATCH CENTAR D.O.O. · 01 4612 732 · WWW.WATCHCENTAR.HR
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Piπe/By Saša Jurin Fotografije/Photos Dominic Blewett
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Naša odredišta Our destinations
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Lisabon je smješten na estuarijskom ušću rijeke Tejo, koja se tu ulijeva u beskonačnost Atlantika, kao hvatište lepeze držeći se europskog kopna i otvarajući se prema novim svjetovima i drugim kontinentima. Lučki je to grad, dinamičan i bučan, koji živi u nekom svom ritmu, neopterećen svojim izgledom.
Lisabon is located on the estuary of the Tagus River, which flows into the infiniteness of the Atlantic Ocean like the handle of a fan, holding on to the European mainland and opening up to a new world and continents. It is a port city, dynamic and noisy, living its own rhythm, unburdened by the way it looks.
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isabon je grad raznolikosti i iznenađenja, u koji se zaljubite na prvi pogled. Pročelja šarenih boja, okićena šarenim keramičkim pločicama azulejos i crnobijeli neravni pločnici detalji su zbog kojih je Lisabon jedinstven. Unatoč svemu što je donijelo novo doba i globalizacija, čini se kao da je tu vrijeme stalo. Ni Feničani, niti Kartažani nisu zaobišli to mjesto, a Rimljani su tu osnovali centar provincije Luzitanije, pod nazivom Olissippio, u kojemu se konzervirala riba za cijelo carstvo. U 12. st. preci današnjih Portugalaca potisnuli su Arape iz tog dijela Pirenejskog poluotoka i osnovali svoju državu, danas jednu od najstarijih u Europi, i smjestili svoju prijestolnicu upravo ovdje. U 16. st. velika otkrića preobrazila su Lisabon, pretvorivši ga u središte tadašnjeg svijeta. Na svakom koraku u ovoj zemlji i ovom gradu srest ćete se s poviješću velikih otkrića, Henrikom Pomorcem, Vascom da Gamom, Magellanom i ostalima. I najveći portugalski ep Os Lusíadas Luísa Camõesa nastao je na putovanjima velikih otkrića. U tom razdoblju nastaje i autohtoni manuelinski stil u arhitekturi, portugalska visoka gotika, inspirirana dekorativnim elementima s pomorskih putovanja i biljnim elementima iz novih svjetova. Dobio je naziv po portugalskom kralju Manuelu I., za čije vladavine je počela pomorska ekspanzija Portugala i stvoren imperij, koji se prostirao gotovo na svim kontinentima. Deklinij portugalskog imperija i Lisabona s njim kulminirao je 1755. g., katastrofalnim potresom i plimnim valom, koji su potpuno uništili grad. Jezgra grada i danas se proteže duž osi koju tvori najveća lisabonska avenija Avenida da Liberdade što se proteže od Parka Eduarda VII do Praça dos Restauradores i preko trga Rossio (Praça de D. Pedro IV), te dalje Baixom i velikim slavolukom do Praça do Comercio sve do rijeke Tejo. Za gradnju tog dijela grada zaslužan je markiz Pombal, čiji spomenik dominira na početku te glavne osi Lisabona. Malim uskim ulicama, uspinjačama i dizalom inženjera iz Eiffelova ureda u Parizu, možete se popeti do Chiada, gdje se nalazi Convento do Carmo, ruševine gotičke katedrale, niz baroknih crkava, kazališta, muzeji i trgovačka zona i dalje Bairro Alto, jedan od centara noćnog života Lisabona s nizom restorana, barova, noćnih klubova i diskoteka, nazvan The Best Place for Young People. S druge strane doći ćete na Bairro da Alfama, Bairro Graça i Castelo São Jorge. To su najstariji dijelovi Lisabona s ostacima antičkog kazališta, maurskom utvrdom, romaničkom
Turismo de Lisboa
Palača Pena, Sintra The Pena Palace in Sintra
Spomenik restauracije
Turismo de Lisboa
Turismo de Lisboa
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The Monument to the Restorers
Portugalski paviljon na Expo ´98 - Oceanarij u daljini Portugal's Pavilion at Expo ´98- Oceanarium in the distance CROATIA AIRLINES
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Veliki spomenik otkrićima na rijeci Tejo Monument to the Discoveries on the Tagus River
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Belemska tvrđava Belem Tower CROATIA AIRLINES
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Crkva Majke Božje
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The Church of Madre de Deus
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Manuelinski prozori
Tvrđava Palmela Castle of Palmela
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Manuelian Windows
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Most Vasco da Gama
Turismo de Lisboa
Vasco da Gama Bridge
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katedralom, crkvicom sv. Antuna, zaštitnika Lisabona, na mjestu kuće u kojoj se rodio, crkvom i samostanom São Vincent da Fora (mauzolej dinastije Bragança), crkvom Santa Engrácia, koja je danas nacionalni panteon Portugala. S mnoštva zanimljivih vidikovaca: Miradouro Castelo São Jorge, Miradouro da Graça, Miradouro da Penha de França, Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, Miradouro de Santa Catarina, Miradouro de Santa Luzia, Miradouro de Santo Estêvão, Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, Miradouro do Parque Eduardo VII, Miradouro do Torel, Miradouro das Portas do Sol, Miradouro da Rocha do Conde de Óbidos, na sedam brežuljaka na kojima se smjestio Lisabon, pruža se fantastičan pogled na grad. Postoje i drugi jednako značajni dijelovi Lisabona, na istoku Parque das Nações, dio grada nastao na prostorima na kojima je održana svjetska izložba EXPO ´98, s najvećim europskim oceanarijem u kojemu možete vidjeti više od 450 vrsta morske faune i flore, i mostom Vasco da Gama, drugim najduljim mostom u Europi, dugim 17,2 km, sagrađenim preko rijeke Tejo. Tu se možete provozati žičarom i uživati u pogledu na most i okolicu. Na putu prema Parque das Nações nalazi se jedan od najstarijih lisabonskih samostana, zadužbina kraljice Leonor, s crkvom Madre de Deus, u kojem je danas smješten Museu Nacional do Azulejo, jedinstven u svijetu, muzej keramičkih pločica. Na putu prema zapadu grada i obali Atlantika nalazi se najveća gradska tržnica, željeznička i brodska stanica Cais do Sodre, zgrada parlamenta s palačom premijera, Basilica Estrela, muzej Arte Antiga, te četvrt Santos i Alcantra, koja se smjestila ispod trokilometarskog visećeg mosta 25 de Abril preko rijeke Tejo. Na krajnjem zapadu grada nalazi se povijesna četvrt Belem sa samostanom Jerónimos i crkvom Santa Maria de Belém, Torre de Belem, Belemskom palačom, nekada kraljevskom palačom, a danas rezidencijom portugalskih predsjednika, kapelom São Jerónimo, nedovršenom kraljevskom palačom Ajuda, tvornicom užadi Cordearia Nacional, prvom električnom centralom u Portugalu, danas muzejom, jahačkom školom, spomenikom otkrićima, stadionom Belenense, tropskim vrtom, Centrom Cultural de Belém, Fondacijom Champalimaud, nedugo novosagrađenim muzejom kočija i kosim staklenim tornjem Lučke uprave Lisabona. Sjeverno su se smjestili Campo Pequeno sa zgradom koride, Campo Grande, veliko područje parka Monsanto, i dio grada poznat pod nazivom Avenidas Novas. Tu se nalazi Sveučilišna četvrt, zoološki vrt, nogometni
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stadioni Benfice i Sportinga, Nacionalni arhiv Portugala, Fondacija s muzejom Gulbenkian, trgovački centri, a i međunarodna zračna luka Lisabona, Portela. Na sjevernim obrocima parka Monsanto možete posjetiti Palácio dos Marqueses de Fronteira, dragulj manirističke arhitekture, palaču ukrašenu najljepšim primjercima portugalskih pločica azulejosa. Nasuprot središta grada, na južnoj obali rijeke Tejo, nalazi se niz prigradskih naselja, kojima dominira 110-metarski spomenik Isusa Krista, izrađen 1959. g. po uzoru na onaj iz Rio de Janeira. Smješten je 113 metara iznad rijeke Tejo, na mjestu gdje most 25 de Abril prelazi rijeku. Svim povijesnim dijelovima Lisabona, na zapadu od groblja Prazeres, do Graçe na istoku, možete se provesti starim lisabonskim tramvajem broj 28, jednim od simbola grada. Ako ste manje romantični i želite brže stići s jednog dijela grada na drugi, možete se koristiti podzemnom željeznicom, autobusima i taksijima, koji su u Lisabonu jeftini. Gastronomija Portugala bogata je i raznolika. Portugalci su jedni od najvećih potrošača bakalara u svijetu, hvale se da znaju napraviti bakalar na stotinjak načina, od kojih su poznatiji: Bacalhau à Brás, Bacalhau com natas, Pataniscas de bacalhau, Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá, Bacalhau Espiritual, Bacalhau com Broa, Bacalhau à Lagareiro, između ostalih. Osim bakalara, mnoštvo lisabonskih restorana pruža veliku raznolikost jela od riba, plodova mora, mesa i onih iz egzotičnih kuhinja Azije, Afrike i Južne Amerike. Kako se Portugalci tradicionalno uglavnom hrane u restoranima, raznolikost ponude vrlo je velika, od onih najskromnijih do onih najluksuznijih, a kvaliteta ponude u prvima ne zaostaje za najskupljim restoranima. Teško je naletjeti na mjesto gdje ćete loše jesti. Najbolje ćete zacijelo blagovati u tradicionalnim malim gostionicama Tascama, u kojima se hrane Lisabonci. Jelo koje se osobito ističe po neobičnoj kombinaciji sastojaka jest carne de porco à Alentejana, komadići pirjane svinjetine i školjaka amêijoas. U tom jelu sjedinjene su dvije osnovne portugalske kuhinje, ona priobalna i ona kontinentalna. Juha Caldo Verde tipična je i jede se u cijelom Portugalu. Portugal je poznat po najrazličitijim vrstama sireva, od kravljega, kozjega ili ovčjeg mlijeka, od kojih se osobito ističe kremasti ovčji sir, Queijo Serra da Estrela, uz Queijo de Azeitão, Queijo de Nisa sve do tvrdih kravljih sireva, poput onog São Jorge s Azora. Pršuti, kobasice i ostali suhomesnati proizvodi neizostavni su u portugalskoj gastronomiji. CROATIA AIRLINES
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Grad Cascais The Town of Cascais
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kom alkohola, kojemu je zaustavljeno vrenje. Aguardiente su vinjaci koji se mogu mjeriti s najboljim francuskim konjacima. Ponuda tipičnih portugalskih slastica temeljena je na arapskoj tradiciji, koju su u srednjem vijeku preuzeli i sačuvali u samostanima širom Portugala. Spravljaju se od brašna, badema, jaja, s mnogo šećera i kandiranog voća. U okolici Lisabona smještena je Sintra, koja se nalazi na Unescovoj listi kulturne svjetske baštine i prirodne svjetske baštine. Tu klasifikaciju Sintra temelji na predivnoj arhitekturi palača i vila građenih od 15. do 19. st., smještenih u prelijepom brežuljkastom okolišu,
Turismo de Lisboa
Želite li pojesti nešto na brzinu, a da bude tipično portugalsko, naručite bitoque (goveđi odrezak s prženim jajem, krumpirom i rižom) ili još jednostavniji prego no pão (goveđi odrezak u kruhu) ili empada da galinha (kolačić od prhkog tijesta punjen piletinom), rissol de camarão (pohane kozice u tijestu), pastel de bacalhao (pohani komadići bakalara u tijestu), almofada da atum (jastučić od prhkog tijesta punjen tunjevinom). Portugal je osobito poznat po izvrsnim vinima, a pogotovo po vinu Porto i desertnom vinu Madeira. Među vinima ističe se vinho verde (zelena ili mlada vina) s nižim postot-
između raskošnih vrtova i parkova bogate suptropske vegetacije. Uz najstariju palaču Palácio da Vila, možete posjetiti Palácio da Pena, eklektičku kraljevsku palaču sagrađenu u vrijeme romantizma, Palácio de Monserrate, kraljevski ljetnikovac sagrađen u historicističkom indijsko-mogulskom stilu, neomanuelinsku Quintu da Regaleir s kapelom i parkom s jezerima, umjetnim špiljama, bunarima, fontanama i raznolikim paviljonima, Palácio de Seteais, klasicističku kraljevsku palaču, pretvorenu u luksuzni hotel. Na obroncima vrhova brežuljaka iznad Sintre možete pogledati i ostatke rimskih i maurskih utvrda, kao i samostan Capuchos. Palacio de Queluz još je jedna od znamenitosti u okolici, ljetna rezidencija portugalskih kraljeva
sagrađena u stilu rocaille po uzoru na Versailles, smještena u predivnim baroknim perivojima i vrtovima, kao i Mafra s monumentalnim samostanom i crkvom, sagrađenim u 18. st. u vrijeme vladavine Joãoa V, kao najveće arhitektonsko djelo portugalskog baroka. U samostanu je smještena jedna od najvećih knjižnica u Europi, s 36.000 knjiga i manuskripata. U smjeru atlantske obale put vodi do mondenog ljetovališta Estorila i Cascaisa, nekadašnjega ribarskog mjesta, a danas ljetovališta Lisabonaca, s mnogo vila i luksuznih ljetnikovaca. Uza stjenovitu atlantsku obalu i pješčane plaže put vodi do Cabo da Roca, najzapadnijeg rta europskog kopna sa svjetionikom i spomenikom 140 nad morem, na 38°46´51˝sjeverno od Ekvatora i 9°30´2˝ zapadno od Greenwicha gdje prestaje kopno i počinje more, zapisao je Luís de Camões.
LISABON OČIMA NOVINARA NA SLUŽBENOM ZADATKU Piπe Hrvoje Horvat
Posjet Lisabonu, zbog izvrsne povezanosti letovima Croatia Airlinesa, bio je sjajan uvod za službeno putovanje u Rim na koncert Radioheada.
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rvo mjesto koje sam htio pronaći, i, dakako, fotografirati se, bilo je na tvrđavi São
Jorge iznad grada, na dugim stubama što ih morate pronaći s jedne strane bedema, na kojima se, s pogledom na grad, 1948. fotoV. Kos
grafirao slavni filmski redatelj Stanley Kubrick. Na drugom je brdu preko puta tvrđave Bairro CROATIA AIRLINES
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Akvedukt iz 18. st. Aqueduct from the 18 th century
Alto, stari dio grada. Glazbenom kritičaru ne bi bilo preporučljivo ne posjetiti neki lokal s fado-glazbom, autentičnim šmekom i bogatom tradicionalnom gastronomijom Lisabona. Muzej fada i najviše fado-restorana nalazi se u Alfami, u njezinom donjem dijelu. Posljednjih petnaestak godina fado-glazbenici češće su dolazili u Hrvatsku, ali vidjeti ih u njihovom autentičnom okružju ipak je drugačije iskustvo. Budući da se uskoro igrala nogometna utakmica reprezentacija Portugala i Hrvatske, susretljivi konobari bili su vidljivo zainteresirani naučiti nekoliko riječi hrvatskog jezika za skore goste-navijače i zapisivali ih u svoje bilježnice. 98
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Lisabon se širi, pa je čitav niz novih restorana i klubova otvoren svim dijelovima grada. U Lisabonu svakako treba sjesti u starinski tramvaj i posjetiti Belem, s tvrđavom Torre de Belem smještenom u rijeci Tejo. Poslije prija zasladiti se legendarnim portugalskim specijalitetom Pasteis de Nata u legendarnoj slastičarnici Pasteis de Belem u glavnoj ulici. No, umjesto da čekate po suncu u dugom redu s turistima, radije otiđite unutra i sjednite čim se oslobodi prvi stol. Pokraj mnogih povijesnih znamenitosti, Lisabon je i suvremeni grad koji je unatrag dvadesetak godina izrastao u prijestolnicu
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koja nudi mnogo i onima željnima aktualnih sadržaja. Svojevrsni okidač pretvorbe u novi Lisabon bio je EXPO održan 1998., koji je i danas prisutan u ruti obilaska grada i okolice. Arhitektonski zanimljiv pogled pruža vam dio grada oko Parque das Nações s fascinantnim pogledom na sve četiri strane svijeta u detaljnim prikazima životnih staništa u četiri oceana od sjevernog do južnog pola Zemlje. Možete se slikati i sa živim morskim psom i drugim golemim ribama. Mlađim turistima nudi se mnogo toga, jer kao turističko odredište Lisabon ima nekoliko aduta u rukavu bogate povijesti i atraktivne
Trg restauracije
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Restauradores Square
Spomenik pjesniku Camöesu Monument to Poet Camoes
Most 25. travnja The 25th of April Bridge
sadašnjosti. Jedan od najvećih svakako je rock-festival Rock in Rio, koji privlači desetke tisuća posjetilaca gostovanjima najpoznatijih svjetskih glazbenika. Tu je i 2009. otvoren muzej mode i designa MuDe u središtu grada, CROATIA AIRLINES
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a nadomak Lisabona nekoliko je atraktivnih lokacija koje svakako treba posjetiti. Umjesto uz pomoć neke turističke agencije s vodičem, odlučili smo se za privatni aranžman koji dopušta raspolaganje vlastitim vremenom i omogućuje detaljniji obilazak. Krenuli smo vlakom prema Sintri, a nakon cjelodnevnog obilaska palača i maurskih ruševina na brdu iznad Sintre, za povratak smo odabrali vožnju Turismo de Lisboa
autobusom do obale Atlantskog oceana, gdje čeka Cabo da Roca, najzapadniji rt europskog kontinenta. Ispod strme litice sa svjetionikom nepregledno je more, golemo zalazeće sunce, a prva iduća postaja jest - Amerika. Povratkom u Lisabon u Estorilu smo istražili i poznatu kockarnicu, koja je nadahnula Iana Fleminga za roman Casino Royale o Jamesu Bondu, ali mnogo je spektakularnije djelovala prirodna atrakcija Boca do Inferno kraj ljetovališta Cascais, obalna lokaciju puna crnih stijena, s velikim grotlom, otvorom u obliku usta, koje je more izdubilo u obali. Povratak u grad u večernjim satima nudi neizbježno: odmor uz čašicu porta i večeru uz tradicionalni fado u nekome od brojnih lisabonskih lokala. Jer, sutra ide sve iz početka.
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city of diversity and surprises one falls in love with at first sight. Colourful facades adorned with multi-coloured ceramic tiles called azulejos, and black and white wavy sidewalks are details unique to Lisbon. Despite all the developments of modern times and globalization, time seems to have stopped here. Phoenicians and Carthaginians ruled the area in their time, while the Romans founded the centre of their province of Lusitania here, and called it Olissippio, where fish were preserved for the entire empire. In the 12th century, predecessors of modern day Portuguese pushed out the Arabs from this part of the Iberian Peninsula and established their own state, one of the oldest in Europe, with the capital in Lisbon. The great discoveries of the 16 th century transformed Lisbon, turning it into the centre of the world as it was then known. At every step in this country and this city, visitors come across the history of great explorers: Henry the Navigator, Vasco de Gama, Magalhaes and others. The greatest Portuguese epic poem, Os Lusíadas, by Luís Camões was based on the travels of these great explorers. The autochthonous Manueline style of architecture developed in that period, as well as Portuguese Gothic architecture, inspired by the decorative elements from overseas and plant features from the new world. The style was named after the Portuguese king, Manuel I, whose rule marked the beginning of the naval expansion of Portugal and the creation of an empire, which spread across almost every continent. The decline of the Portuguese Empire and Lisbon as its centre culminated in 1755, with a
catastrophic earthquake and tidal wave which devastated the city. The city centre itself surrounds the largest avenue in Lisbon, Avenida da Liberdade, which stretches from the park of Eduardo VII to Praça dos Restauradores and across Rossio Square (Praça de D. Pedro IV), and further on to Baixa and the large arch, Praça do Comercio and the Tagus River. Marquis Pombal constructed this part of the city, so his monument overlooks the area. Small, narrow streets, funiculars and a lift constructed by engineers from the Eiffel’s Paris office lead to Chiado, featuring the Convento do Carmo, the ruins of the Gothic cathedral, an array of Baroque churches, theatres, museums and a shopping zone. Further on is Bairro Alto, one of the centres of Lisbon’s nightlife, with an array of restaurants, bars, night clubs and discos called The Best Place for Young People. On the other side, one will reach Bairro da Alfama, Bairro Graça and Castelo São Jorge. These are the oldest parts of Lisbon, where there are remains of an ancient theatre, a Mauri fort, a Romanesque cathedral, the Church of St. Anthony - the patron saint of Lisbon, located in the house of his birthplace, the São Vincent da Fora Church and Monastery with the mausoleum of the Bragança Dynasty, and the Santa Engrácia Church, which is, nowadays, the National Pantheon of Portugal. Numerous interesting viewpoints, including Miradouro Castelo São Jorge, Miradouro da Graça, Miradouro da Penha de França, Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, Miradouro de Santa Catarina, Miradouro de Santa Luzia, Miradouro de Santo Estêvão, Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, Miradouro do Parque CROATIA AIRLINES
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Crkva Majke Božje Belemske sa samostanom sv. Jeronima
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The Church of Mother of God of Belem and St. Jeronimo’s Monastery
Eduardo VII, Miradouro do Torel, Miradouro das Portas do Sol, Miradouro da Rocha do Conde de Óbidos, scattered across the seven hills Lisbon is located on, offer a fantastic view of the city. There are other, equally significant parts of Lisbon to the east, such as the Parque das
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Nações, which is a part of the city that was developed in the area where the EXPO ´98 exhibition was held. It is famous for the largest oceanarium in Europe, featuring more than 450 species of marine animals and plants, and the Vasco da Gama Bridge, the second longest bridge in Europe, which crosses the Tagus River and spans 17.2 km in length. Visitors can take a cable-car ride and enjoy the view of the bridge and its surroundings. Along the way towards the Parque das Nações, one comes upon one of the oldest convents in Lisbon, founded by Queen Leonor, along with the church of Madre de Deus, which, nowadays, houses the Museu Nacional do Azulejo, a unique museum of ceramic tiles. On the way towards the western part of the city and the Atlantic coast, you will find the largest market in the city, the Cais do Sodre railway, boat terminals, the parliament building and the Prime Minister’s palace, the Basilica Estrela, the Arte Antiga Museum, and the Santos and Alcantara neighbourhoods, located under the three-kilometre long suspension bridge, 25 de Abril, which crosses the Tagus River. To the west of the city are the historic Belem neighbourhood with the Jerónimos Monastery and the Santa Maria de Belém Church; Torre
de Belem, Belem Palace - once the royal palace and, nowadays, the residence of the Portuguese president; the São Jerónimo Chapel; the unfinished royal palace Ajuda; the Cordearia Nacional rope factory; the first electric power-plant in Portugal - nowadays a museum; an equestrian school; a monument to the discoveries; the Belenense Stadium; the tropical garden; Centro Cultural de Belém; the Champalimaud Foundation; the recently built horse-drawn carriage museum and the leaning glass tower of the Lisbon port authority. To the north are the Campo Pequeno bullring, Campo Grande; the large Monsanto Park and part of the city known as Avenidas Novas. This area consists of the University quarter, the ZOO, the Benfica and Sporting football stadiums, the National Archive of Portugal, the Gulbenkian Foundation and Museum, several shopping centres and Lisbon’s international airport - Portela. On the northern hillsides of Monsanto Park, one can visit the Palácio dos Marqueses de Fronteira, a jewel of Mannerist architecture a palace decorated with the most beautiful examples of Portuguese azulejos tiles. Across from the city centre, on the southern bank of the Tagus River, there is an array of
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Portuguese gastronomy is rich and diverse. The Portuguese are among the biggest cod consumers in the world, and they boast that they can prepare it in about a hundred ways, the most famous of which are: Bacalhau à Brás, Bacalhau com natas, Pataniscas de bacalhau, Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá, Bacalhau Espiritual, Bacalhau com Broa, and Bacalhau à Lagareiro. Apart from cod, many restaurants in Lisbon offer a diversity of food, from fish, sea fruit and meat to exotic cuisines of Asia, Africa and South America. Since the Portuguese traditionally eat mostly at restaurants, the diversity of the menu is very wide, ranging from very modest to luxurious, but the quality of the former is not inferior even when compared to the most expensive restaurants. Finding a place with bad food is difficult; however, absolutely the best food can be enjoyed at traditional small Tascas, where the locals go for their daily meals. The dish that particularly stands out for its unusual combination of ingredients is the Carne de porco à Alentejana, consisting of pieces of stewed pork and amêijoa shells. This dish brings together two main types of Portuguese cuisine - the coastal and the continental.
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suburban neighbourhoods dominated by a 110-metre tall monument of Jesus Christ, built in 1959, based on its counterpart in Rio de Janeiro. It is located 113 metres above the Tejo River, at the spot where the 25 de Abril Bridge spans the river. All historic parts of Lisbon, from the Prazeres Cemetery westward, to Graçe in the east, can be accessed by the old number 28 tram of Lisbon, one of the most recognizable symbols of the city. Četvrt Alfama s nacionalnim If you are less romantic and want to get from one part panteonom Portugala of the city to the next much quicker, you can travel by Alfama District and the subway, bus or taxi, which is quite cheap in Lisbon. National Pantheon
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The Caldo Verde is very commonly served throughout Portugal. Portugal is famous for having the most diverse types of cheese, made from cow, goat or sheep’s milk. Among the most renowned are the creamy sheep cheeses: Queijo Serra da Estrela, Queijo de Azeitão, and Queijo de Nisa, as well as hard cow cheeses, such as the São Jorge from the Azores. Smoked ham, sausage and other dry meats are indispensable in Portuguese gastronomy. If you want a quick bite that is typically Portuguese, order a bitoque (beef steak with fried egg, potatoes and rice), or even simpler prego no pão (beef steak in bread) or empada da galinha (crispy pastry filled with chicken), rissol de camarão (fried shrimp in pasta), pastel de bacalhao (fried pieces of cod in pasta),
Nebeska udobnost dostojna svakog hotela. Ili onog koji želi usrećiti svoga gosta.
www.hespo.hr
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Dizalo Santa Justa Santa Justa Elevator
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almofada da atum (pastry filled with tuna). Portugal is especially known for its excellent wines, especially Porto and Madeira dessert wine. Among the most prominent wines is vinho verde (green or young wines), which have a lower alcohol content due to the fermentation process being stopped early. Aguardiente are brandies comparable to the finest French cognacs. Typical Portuguese desserts have a strong Arabic influence stemming from the Middle Ages; the tradition has been preserved in monasteries across Portugal and are made from flour, almonds, eggs and a lot of sugar and sweetened fruit. Located in the vicinity of Lisbon is Sintra, a UNESCO world cultural and natural heritage site, featuring architecturally-stunning palaces and villas built between the 15th and 19th centuries, located within a beautiful hilly landscape, with lush gardens and parks laden with diverse sub-tropical vegetation. Apart from the oldest palace, Palácio da Vila, you can visit the Palácio da Pena, an eclectic royal palace built during Romanticism, the Palácio de Monserrate, a royal summer residence built in the Indian Mughal style, the neoManueline Quinta da Regaleir with a chapel and park with lakes, caves, wells, fountains and diverse pavilions, as well as the Palácio de Seteais, a classicist royal palace which was turned into a luxurious hotel. The hillsides above Sintra feature the remains of Roman and Mauri forts as well as the Capuchos Monastery. Another landmark in the vicinity is the Palacio de Queluz, the summer residence of Portuguese kings, built in a Rocaille style, inspired by Versailles, and located in beautiful Baroque gardens, as is Mafra, with a monumental monastery and church built in the 18th century during the reign of João V, which is seen as the greatest architectural work of Portuguese Baroque. The monastery houses one of the largest libraries in Europe, with over 36000 books and manuscripts. The journey towards the Atlantic coast leads to the popular holiday resorts of Estoril and Cascais, onetime fishing towns and, nowadays, popular summer retreats for the citizens of Lisbon, featuring many villas and luxurious summer residences. The path along the rocky Atlantic coast and its sandy beaches leads to Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of the European mainland, with a lighthouse and a monument 140 metres above the sea, 38°46´51˝ north of the Equator, and 9°30´2˝ west of Greenwich, where the land ends and the sea begins, as written by Luís de Camões.
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LISBON from the perspective of a journalist on assignment By Hrvoje Horvat
My stopover in Lisbon, thanks to the excellent connecting flights of Croatia Airlines, was an enjoyable experience during my trip to Radiohead’s concert in Rome.
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he first place I wanted to find, and, of course, take a picture of, was the long staircase located on one side of the walls of the São Jorge Fort, which overlooks Lisbon and features a view of the city, where famous director, Stanley Kubrick, posed for a photo in 1948. On the opposite hill, there is Bairro Alto, the old part of town where fado music, an original Portuguese tourist product, can be heard playing. The Fado Museum and the largest number of fado restaurants are
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located in Alfama. It would not be advisable for a music critic to miss visiting a place where live fado music is played, and that boasts an authentic atmosphere with a diverse, traditional gastronomy. Over the last fifteen years, fado musicians have been visiting Croatia more frequently, but seeing them live in their authentic environment is an entirely different experience. Since a football match between Croatia and Portugal was taking place soon, the friendly waiters were clearly interested in learning a few words of Croatian for their future guests-supporters, and they were diligently writing them down on their notepads. Visiting Lisbon and riding the old-fashioned tram to Belem, with the Torre de Belem Fort located on the Tejo River, is a must. Later on, one should try the legendary Portuguese sweet specialty, Pasteis de Nata, at the
renowned patisserie shop, Pasteis de Belem, located on the main street. However, instead of waiting in the sun, queuing with other tourists, a good idea is to go inside and take a seat as soon as a table becomes available. Apart from numerous historic landmarks, Lisbon is also a contemporary city, which has grown over the last twenty years to become a capital city that has plenty to offer those who desire contemporary events. The 1998 Expo, which is still part of the city’s sightseeing routes, was a catalyst of sorts for the transformation of the city. An architecturally-interesting view is enjoyed around the Parque das Nações, where the fascinating oceanarium is located - the largest one in Europe; it has a fascinating view of all four sides of the world, with detailed displays of animal habitats from all four oceans. Visitors can also get their photos taken with live sharks and other big fish. Younger tourists have an expansive selection of features to choose from because Lisbon, as a tourist destination, has several tricks up its sleeve - its rich history and attractive present. One of the major features is, of course, the Rock in Rio Festival, which attracts tens of thousands of visitors and includes performances by the biggest names in the world of music. Furthermore, the MUDE Design and Fashion Museum opened in the city centre in 2009, and there are also several other attractions in the vicinity of Lisbon that everyone should visit. Instead of going through tourist agencies and guides, we decided to travel privately, which allows for better time management, and for more sightseeing possibilities. We left for Sintra by train, and after an entire day of looking at palaces and Moorish ruins on the hill above Sintra, we decided to take a bus back along the Atlantic coast and Cabo da Roca, the westernmost cape of mainland Europe, where at the bottom of a steep cliff, there is a lighthouse, and nothing but the vast ocean and a huge setting sun, and in the far distance - America. Upon returning to Lisbon, we explored the famous casino in Estoril, which inspired Ian Fleming to write his James Bond novel, Casino Royale. Much more spectacular, however, is the natural attraction, Boca do Inferno, located beside the Cascais Resort, a coastal locality laden with black rocks and a big mouth-like crater created by the ocean’s effect on the coast. Returning to the city in the evening hours offers the inevitable: a break with a glass of Port and dinner with traditional live fado music at one of the numerous Lisbon restaurants because tomorrow, it all starts all over again.
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PO VR AT NI
Uživajte u visokoj modi u Milanu, osjetite zlatni Prag, doživite Bijele noći u carskom Sankt Peterburgu ili se opustite uz melodije opojnoga fada u Lisabonu. Odaberite svoju destinaciju i otputujte! Direktni letovi iz Zagreba za: - Prag i Milano već od 129 EUR - Lisabon i Sankt Peterburg već od 199 EUR Cijene se odnose na aviokarte za povratne letove Croatia Airlinesa. Aviokarte za putovanja iz Dubrovnika, Pule, Splita i Zadra, preko Zagreba, mogu se kupiti po cijeni od 159 EUR za Milano i Prag, te po cijeni od 229 EUR za Sankt Peterburg i Lisabon.
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Tradiciju nekrojenog ruha Hrvati
MODA FASHION
su prenijeli iz praslavenske Piπe/By Tihana Mikša Perković Fotografije/Photos Vanja Šolin
postojbine. Baveći se tradicionalnim kostimom seoskog stanovništva, autorica teksta i odjeće koju predstavlja, istaknula je estetski dragocjene tradicionalne elemente što ih transformira i dorađuje u traganju za suvremenošću. Izdvojivši neke odjevne predmete, kao najdojmljiviju predstavlja plisiranu suknju, suknju s poramenicama, oplećje (košulju), bizovačku nošnju, nošnju s otoka Suska, surku (gornji haljetak), ali i tehniku pletenja košara, košaraštvo.
Croatians brought the tradition of untailored clothes from their old Slavic land. The author of the text and clothes designer has explored the traditional national costumes of people living in villages and in her designs, she emphasises aesthetically precious traditional elements, which she transforms and processes in the quest for modernity. She is presenting some of the most impressive garments, such as a pleated skirt, a skirt with braces, oplećje (a shirt), national costumes from Bizovec and Susak, surka (a top garment), but also the basketFrizura i make up / Hairdress and make up: Dalibor Šakić Model / Model: Hana F.M., Lucia Perković
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making technique.
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Gaće (hlače) od lanenog platna, stonewash obrada / košulja od pamučnog materijala / 2016. gaće (trousers), linen canvas, stonewash finish / shirt made of cotton / 2016
Haljina od pamučnog batista, obrada kiselinom i paljenjem / prsluk od voštanog platna / 2015. cotton batiste dress, acid and firing finish / waxed canvas waistcoat / 2015
Poznato je da neka civilizacija ne može misliti o sebi ako nema na umu jednu ili više drugih, koje joj služe za usporedbu. Da bi se spoznala i razumjela vlastita kultura, valja se naučiti gledati sa stajališta druge: donekle poput glumca. Claude Levi-Strauss, Antropologija i moderni svijet CROATIA AIRLINES
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Haljina od lanenog platna, ručni plise i zakrpe, stone wash obrada i brušenje / 2016. linen canvas dress, hand-pleated and with patches, stonewash finish and sandpapering / 2016
Ručno plisirana lanena suknja, prsluk od vunenog runa i pamučne gaze, postupak iglanja / 2010. hand pleated linen skirt, raw wool waistcoat and cotton gauze, nuno felting / 2010
It is acknowledged that a civilization cannot think of itself if it does not consider another or several other civilizations in comparison to it. In order to get to know and understand one’s own culture, one must learn to see it from the viewpoint of another: somewhat like an actor. Claude Levi-Strauss: Anthropology Confronts the Problems of the Modern World CROATIA AIRLINES
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Haljina od denima, razne obrade / vunena plisirana tkanina / 2016. denim dress, various finishes / woollen pleated fabric / 2016
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Pamučna haljina, ručno prošivana / kožun (prsluk), vunena tkanina i runo / 2015. cotton dress, embroidery / kožun (waistcoat), wool fabric and raw wool / 2015
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Oplećje (košulja), ručno plisirani lan, stonewash obrada / 2010. oplećje (shirt), hand pleated linen, stonewash finish / 2010
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aveći se tradicionalnim kostimom seoskog stanovništva, izabrala sam elemente koje sam smatrala nepravedno zaboravljenima ili estetski dragocjenima, da li konstrukcijom ili svojstvima tekstilne tvorevine koja crpi svoju ljepotu i funkcionalnost iz obilježja prirodnog vlakna. Zatim sam ih dorađivala i transformirala u traganju za suvremenim osviještenim čovjekom. Namjeravala sam poći putovima naših predaka i na kontemplativan i repetitivan te dugotrajan način posvetiti se sveukupnoj izradi svakog odijela. Zapravo, namjeravala sam usporiti se, biti dio samog procesa, a ne samo konzument gotove bezlične otuđene odjeće.
Evo što me zaintrigiralo. Najzanimljivije obilježje fiksiranog kostima jest tradicija nekrojenog ruha koje su Hrvati prenijeli iz praslavenske postojbine, a zapravo u povijesti odijevanja predstavlja prijelazni oblik između tradicije omatanja (stare civilizacije) i tradicije krojene odjeće. Prvotno sam, tragajući u prošlosti, izvukla jedan osebujan predmet , tzv. oplećje (oplećek). Ta je košulja također nastala u spomenutoj tradiciji nekrojenog ruha, spajanjem tekstilnih kvadratnih rukotvorina i bogatim nabiranjem oko vratnog izreza. Ti se sitni pravilni nabori polako raspuštaju i nastavljaju svoju nepravilnu igru. Sirovost materijala doradila sam suvremenom tehnikom stone wash u industrijskim uvjetima i tako postigla dojam istrošenosti i autentičnosti. Tu se pojavljuju i tradicionalne gaće (od jedne ili više pola) s umetkom (turom) između nogavica. U tradiciji narodnog ruha najdojmljiviji je odjevni predmet plisirana suknja. Jedan od modaliteta jest suknja s poramenica-
ma jadranskog područja (Zlarin, Vodice, Primošten, Mljet, Lastovo). Prednost lanenog vlakna jest to što se ono samo lomi, odnosno neotporno je na gužvanje. Seoski je čovjek prepoznao to kao prednost i iskoristio za formiranje kontroliranih uspravnih nabora. Gledajući u povijest, plisiranje pravilnim naborima jednoličnog ritma datira još iz starog Egipta, gdje se takvim naborima željelo prkositi prirodi i težiti božanskomu. Bizovačka narodna nošnja, uz onu s otoka Suska, pripada u najzanimljivije i najavangardnije načine seoskog odijevanja. Tako sam, na tragu nje, formirala odijelo koje se odlikuje višeslojnim suknjama od pamučnog platna. Dok bizovačku nošnju resi bogati plavi bušeni vez (bušenina), moje ruho ukrašeno je slojevitim nepravilnim mrljama, nastalim djelovanjem kiseline. One su naknadno bušene i paljene, referirajući se pomalo na vez, u kombinaciji sa suvremenim voštanim platnom (waxed canvas) koje lomljenjem površinskog voska ostavlja tragove i sugerira dotrajalost. Surka (surina) je gornji haljetak izrađen od sukna. Sukno je vunena tkanina specifične naknadne obrade. Ono bi se u jednostavnim napravama (stupe, valjarice) obrađivalo pod mlazom vode s pomoću drvenih batova dok vuneno vlakno ne bi postalo zbijeno i zgusnuto, a tkanina čvrsta i nepromočiva. Osim odijevanja koje sam proučavala, bitan dio svakodnevice seoskog života bilo je košaraštvo (tehnika pletenja košara). Njegovu primjenu nalazimo u raznim područjima života, za gradnju ograda, gornjeg dijela kola, ribolovne vrše, posude za sijeno, perje, voće, sjeme itd. Najbolje svojstvo košaraštva jest to što stvara trodimenzionalnu formu bez ikakvih spojeva, za razliku od odjeće koja nastaje kao produkt dvodimenzionalnih tvorevina.
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Lanena haljina s nepravilnim prošivima, stonewash obrada / gornji dio od voštanog platna / 2015. linen dress with irregular stitching, stonewash finish / the upper part of waxed canvas / 2015
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orking with the traditional costumes of village folk, I chose elements I considered unjustly forgotten, or aesthetically-valuable, whether by their construction or by the properties of the created textile, which draws all of its beauty and functionality from the characteristics of natural fibre. I, then, did further work on them and transformed them in pursuit of the contemporary, conscious man. My intention was to embark on the paths of our ancestors, and dedicate myself contemplatively and persistently to the overall creation of each suit over the long-term. I actually intended to slow myself down, be part of the process itself, and not just a consumer of finished and impersonal clothes. I would like to describe something that intrigued me. The most interesting characteristic of a fixed costume is the tradition of untailored attire, which the Croats have taken from protoSlavic culture, while in the history of clothing, it represents a transitional form between the tradition of wearing cloaks (old civilization), and the tradition of tailored clothes. Researching history, I first found one distinct item, the so-called oplećje (oplećek). This
vest was also created in the aforementioned tradition of untailored attire, by combining square textile handicrafts and opulent shirring around the collar. These tiny, even frills slowly release and continue their uneven game. I added to the rawness of material by applying a contemporary stone wash technique under industrial conditions, and achieved an impression of wear and authenticity. This includes traditional underwear (with one or more halves) with an insert between the trouser legs. The most prominent traditional garment is a pleated skirt. One of the modalities is a skirt with shoulder straps typical of the Adriatic region (Zlarin, Vodice, Primošten, Mljet, Lastovo). The advantage of flax fibre is that it breaks by itself, which means it is not resistant to wrinkling. The village folk have recognized this as an advantage and used it in forming controlled vertical pleats. Looking at history, pleating with even creases and an even rhythm dates back to ancient Egypt, where such pleats defied nature and tended towards the divine. The traditional clothing of Bizovac, and that from the Island of Susak, is among the most interesting and avant-garde ways of dressing Surka (jakna), kuhana vuna, sashiko / ručno plisirana suknja od lana / 2015. surka (jacket), boiled wool, sashiko / hand pleated linen skirt / 2015
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in the countryside. Inspired by this, I created a suit from multi-layered skirts out of cotton canvas. While the traditional clothing of Bizovac is characterized by gorgeous blue punctured lace (bušenina), my garment is adorned with layered uneven blotches created with acid. They were subsequently punctured and burned, like the lace, and combined with waxed canvas, which leaves traces and looks worn once the surface wax is broken. Surka (surina) is a blouse made out of broadcloth. Broadcloth is a wool fabric with a specific finish. In simple machines, it would be treated with wooden hammers under a stream of water until the wool fibre becomes dense and the fabric firm and watertight. Apart from the clothing I studied, an important part of everyday life in the country is basketry - the technique of weaving baskets. This technique can be applied to various aspects of life: to fence building, to the construction of the upper parts of carriages, fishing coops, containers for hay, feathers, fruit and seeds… The best aspect of basketry is that it creates a three dimensional form without any joints, unlike clothes that are made as a product of two dimensional creations.
CÉLINE, VALENTINO, SAINT LAURENT, GIVENCHY, LANVIN, BALENCIAGA, CHLOÉ, AZZEDINE ALAÏA, STELLA MCCARTNEY, MARNI, ROCHAS, MISSONI, RICK OWENS, PROENZA SCHOULER, ALEXANDER WANG, MONCLER GAMME ROUGE, PETER PILOTTO, MAISON MARGIELA, MARY KATRANTZOU, VIKA GAZINSKAYA, ATHENA PROCOPIOU, M2MALLETIER, FALIERO SARTI, MAISON MICHEL, IVI JEWELRY, ACHERALI KNOFER, DELFINA DELETTREZ, ERICKSON BEAMON, TOM BINNS, GIANVITO ROSSI, LINDA FARROW LUXE, VICKI SARGE Maria Zagreb, Masarykova 8, 01-4811011 Maria Dubrovnik, Sv. Dominika bb, 020-321330 Outlet Zagreb, Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17, 01-4860843 www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr facebook.com/mariastore.hr instagram:mariastorehr CROATIA AIRLINES
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Xenophora 2015 (Đorđićeva/Petrinjska) - Lonac
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Piπe/By Dubravka Prpić Znaor Fotografije/Photos Vanja Šolin
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Oh, Barbie 2015 Lonac
Bless from the Past 2015 (SC) Lonac
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Where is my Batman 2016 Lonac
heARTbeat 2016 Lonac
Medika Diving 2015 Lonac CROATIA AIRLINES
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Open My Eyes so I Can See (MSU) 2016, Oko
Sivilo svake metropole svojski razbijaju snažni, veliki i ponegdje uistinu veličanstveni potezi renomiranih street-art umjetnika: njihova pozornica jest grad, a publika apsolutno svaki prolaznik.
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ni su ulični slikarski umjetnici i nose takva imena - upoznat ćemo Oko, jedinu damu među njima, zatim Lunara, Lonca, kolektiv Pimp my Pump i Cheza 186. Kad se krećete Zagrebom, na otkrivenim ili nekim skrivenim punktovima, zastat ćete zbog velikog crteža, natpisa, motiva, a neki su čak skriveni i u podzemnim garažama. Zagreb ima mnogo starih zgrada, neke su očuvane,
Marina Mesar aka Oko Okato
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neke nisu, s otužnim pročeljima… no, kad se oni prime boje i kista, inspirirani eksterijerom, stvar se okrene nabolje. Urbana sredina dobiva živost, veselje, pozitivu i poruku. Za koga? Za sve koji prolaze, njihova je umjetnost univerzalna i namijenjena svima koji zastanu. Imali su naši ulični umjetnici i brojne izložbe, suradnje s galerijama, na multimedijalnim projektima, crtali po stranim gradovima... No, idemo redom.
rolere, a u posljednje vrijeme i sprejeve. Osim kod nas, radila sam i u Francuskoj, Španjolskoj, Americi… Ove se godine opet spremam u Francusku, gdje imam nekoliko izložbi, zatim su tu projekti za Englesku i jedan kod nas, ponovno sa zagrebačkim Muzejom suvremene umjetnosti. Ponosna sam na to što je galerija u New Yorku počela prodavati moje printeve, pa sve skupa ide u tom smjeru… Međunarodnom.
Oko ∑ Mislim da sam postala prepoznatljiva po svojim crno-bijelim životinjskim likovima. Inspiriram se knjigama, knjigama i knjigama… a onda i dokumentarcima i ponekim filmom - kaže poznata umjetnica. - Poruka je mojih radova namijenjena svima, ali imam osjećaj da tražim komunikaciju s onima koji su dovoljno otvorenog uma da se zapitaju neka klasična pitanja o smislu života i postojanja. Kad počinjem raditi, obično najprije proučim povijest mjesta, grada, četvrti u kojoj crtam, kao i lokalne običaje. Priznajem da ima tu i neka jaka volja, moraš biti uporan kad te stalno uništavaju i prebojavaju, iz dana u dan… i tako stalno iznova. No, reakcija je ljudi zato predivna, uglavnom nailazim na odobravanje. Kad mi priđu, ponekad se sramim i zapravo ne znam što bih rekla… ali zapravo treba biti otvoren prema ljudima i onda je sve ok. U radu rabim boje za zid, kistove i
Lunar On je prava street-art zvijezda, i to već dulje vrijeme. Priznati je dugogodišnji umjetnik koji redovito ima izložbe i suradnje na velikim projektima. ∑ Radu na otvorenome pristupam slično kao i radu na papiru, osim što mu posvetim malo više vremena oko bojenja, a i tehnika je drugačija. Gruba skica na papiru jest osnova, a na zidu često improviziram, igram se oblicima i bojama. Inspiracija su moja vlastita iskustva koja propuštam kroz vlastiti filtar i onda ispucavam u radove. To može biti sve: slučajan susret na ulici, ljubav, pročitana knjiga… opcije su raznolike. Što se tiče poruka, neki moji radovi je imaju, neki ne… oni su kao čista igra na površini, a ponekad i slovni stil ili pak zabavljanje zatečenim oblicima na površini. Kad komuniciram poruke, nastojim isticati one primjenjive među svim ljudima. Rjeđe se referiram na određene
The greyness of any capital is broken up by big, powerful, truly magnificent pieces of art in the streets by renowned street artists. Their stage is the city, and the audience every single passer-by. događaje, ljude ili područja. Poruke su, osim toga, namijenjene svakome tko ih želi pročitati i uvidjeti. Kad nešto komuniciram prema van, želim da to ima smisla i iza svojih riječi stojim. Kad kritiziram, volim da je kritika konstruktivna. Početak je ovakav: ako nisam upućen u materiju, najprije je proučim i skicom izbacim svoj slikovni komentar, odnosno tumačenje. Želja mi je napraviti što bolje radove koji me vesele i nastojati pridonijeti boljoj komunikaciji među kreativnim ljudima koji miču granice u dobrom smjeru, iz kojega god područja dolazili. I jako volim kad slučajni prolaznici komentiraju - da sam dobio kunu svaki put kad sam čuo meni se sviđa kad vi crtate, ali mi se ne sviđa ono kad šaraju, već bih sagradio neboder. ∑ Lunar često koristi sprej i akrilnu boju, koju nanosi četkom, valjkom ili kistom. No, veli, ne libi se ni proliti vino ili kavu po papiru i time crtati. Omiljeni motiv su mu životinje. - Uglavnom crtam tapire, jazavce, medvjede, vukove, jelene… ali me ljudi najviše pamte po mačkama. Smatram li se umjetnikom? Pa, ne razmišljam o tome, ostavljam drugima na prosude. Kad ljudi iz medija inzistiraju na etiketama, onda da, tako se predstavljam. No, bavim se i dizajnom, ilustracijom, grafitima, fotografijom, slikarstvom… pa je to lakše strpati pod zajednički nazivnik - umjetnik, ako baš moram. Često putujem, upravo sam se vratio s veseloga gostovanja u
Bogoti i radim selekciju fotografija. Otvorio sam u travnju izložbu u Zagrebu, Lines & Fills u studiju Boonika, nakon toga gostovao u Laubi, a zatim je uslijedio street-art festival u Münchenu i gostovanje na izložbi u Amsterdamu… Lonac Još jedna street-art zvijezda otkriva da obožava oslikavati pročelja nadrealnim, realističnim ili simboličkim prizorima te intervenirati po zapuštenim prostorima. ∑ Nadahnjuju me pritom svakodnevne stvari, događaji, glazba, ljudi kojima sam okružen te radovi drugih umjetnika - kaže Lonac. A poruka? ∑ Pa ne mora baš svaki rad koji je na ulici imati poruku. Možda su ljudi naviknuli na to, ako je nešto na ulici, sigurno mora imati neko značenje… ako ima, onda je to uglavnom - konzumiraj. Neki radovi su dovoljni po sebi, promatrač, naravno, ima slobodu interpretacije. Ali ako uz rad nešto napišem, to je zato što tekstom dajem puni smisao likovnom radu, no to ne znači da ga svi moraju shvatiti, niti da je namijenjen određenoj publici. Sâm zid, zatim sve ono što se nalazi na njemu, kao i njegovo okružje, glavna su inspiracija za intervenciju. Pokušavam smisliti nešto što se logično nadovezuje na zid ili radom nastojim još više naglasiti zid. Primjeri su radovi Heartbeats, Medika diving, Ambush, Nest… Za
You Need to Nurture Old Friendships 2015 (Medika) Oko
murale najviše rabim sprejeve, a ponekad i fasadnu boju. Sprejevi se mnogo brže osuše pa je neke detalje lakše raditi u toj tehnici. Što se tiče mojih popularnih likova, neki bi rekli da su to ribe. Ipak, svaki rad funkcionira za sebe, često skačem s motiva na motiv. Možda je to moj likovni izričaj, stil, ako se to tako može nazvati, ono po čemu ljudi prepoznaju moj rad. Općenito se smatram kreativcem koji svoju energiju troši najviše na slikanje, bilo da je riječ o golemim pročeljima ili platnu u studiju. Moj rad uključuje i putovanja - oslikao sam i zid nadvožnjaka u talijanskom Cassinu, u sklopu festivala Memorie Urbane, a potkraj godine idem na Floridu slikati na festival Canvas. CROATIA AIRLINES
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Continents/Antarctica Lunar 2014
Safe from Harm, Lunar&Flying Fortress Collaboration - (Preradovićeva)
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Converse Wall Lunar 2013 (Varšavska)
Keep Purple Lunar 2015 (SC)
All Colours are Beautiful Lunar 2015 (SC)
Colourful Underground #01 Lunar 2016 (Garage - Langov Square)
Collaboration Pyser Lunar, 4-eyed cat - 2015 (Rotor) CROATIA AIRLINES
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Roofalo Chez 186 - 2016 (SC)
Chez 186 Ljudi ga prepoznaju po širokoj paleti boja kojom se koristi kao i prilično neobičnim kombinacijama stilova, slova i apstraktnih oblika koje svaki put iznova pokušava smjestiti u format zida. ∑ Mislim da svojim radovima ne pokušavam poslati nikakvu poruku, to je jednostavno dio mene koji ostavljam na ulici i ne očekujem ništa zauzvrat - kaže Chez 186. - No, ako netko iz moga rada iščita poruku, super za njega. Radove osmišljavam spontano, na mjestu, takav
It's Menza Style - collaboration Chez 186/Oko/Smelly Feet/Linnch/ Kopito zla/Neon 2015 - (SC)
Katran Chez 186- 2014 (Katran Factory)
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mi pristup najviše odgovara i donosi najbolje rezultate. Zbog toga je i proces crtanja mnogo zanimljiviji i dinamičniji, a i finalni je rezultat uvijek nešto novo i neplanirano. Kad radim, obično prolaznici nešto komentiraju - uglavnom su to pozitivne reakcije, većina ljudi cijeni naš rad, iako mislim da ne razumiju što točno radimo… No, jasno im je da se u sve skupa ulaže mnogo energije i truda i da je potrebna velika kreativnost te da to ne može napraviti baš svatko. Imam osjećaj da nas cijene. Moj glavni alat uvijek je
sprej, a ponekad se poslužim i fasadnim bojama. U posljednje vrijeme moji radovi poprimaju nekakav organski izgled, prilično su tu isprepleteni i zamršeni motivi, a onda opet uredno posloženi i u pokretu. Nekad mi se čini da jesam umjetnik, a onda opet drugi put da nisam… Ponosan sam na projekte, čeka me nekoliko velikih u Zagrebu, pa mnogo gostovanja po državi, a onda i u nekoliko europskih gradova. Imam i poprilično posla u atelijeru, gdje pripremam radove za sljedeću izložbu.
Chez186
PMP / Lapo Lapo Zagreb je prije nekoliko godina dobio novi urbani detalj - stare vodene pumpe, ili Franceki, postavljeni posvuda po kvartovima, dobili su novi izgled. Autori iz kolektiva Pimp my Pump osmislili su dobru foru i preko noći postali prepoznatljivi autori naše street-art scene. Franceki bi, naime, uvijek bili neki komični likovi ili filmske face koje se na inovativan način uklapaju u sivi eksterijer. Danas oni potpisuju brojne druge urbane radove: kolektiv PMP i
street-art studio Lapo Lapo vode Boris Bare i Miro Modul Petković. O svom radu govore da svaki put žele - iznenaditi. ∑ Uzimajući u obzir široki opus motiv i stilova, svaki put želimo napraviti nešto novo, koristeći se tako realnim stilovima, od geometrije, apstrakcije, realizma pa do kaligrafije. Nadahnjuje nas sve što vidimo i radimo, čujemo i osjetimo. Često su nam i putovanja glavni izvor inspiracije. Svojim radom želimo širiti pozitivne misli te vraćati stare stvari u život, dati im dušu te tako razveseliti sebe i ljude oko nas. Radovi su namijenjeni svima. Želimo pokazati da se iz svega može stvoriti nešto novo, posebno i pozitivno. Radove osmišljavamo ovisno o objektu, izgledu, materijalu i prostoru. A boje… ovisi kako se osjećamo taj dan! Usto, nemoguće je izbjeći radoznale poglede - reakcije su uglavnom pozitivne, što nam daje želju i vjetar u leđa da činimo što bolje, veće i ljepše stvari. Uglavnom nas ljudi poznaju po kombinaciji stripova, filmova i glazbe s kojima smo se sretali tijekom života. Pri radu rabimo sprejeve, akrilne boje, kistove, boje za metal, boje za zid, ali opet sve ovisi o površini koju radimo. - Bare i Petković rade na mnogim drugim urbanim projektima: u sklopu studija Lapo Lapo nalazi se muzej gdje su izloženi radovi afirmiranih regionalnih street -art umjetnika. ∑ Ostali projekti na kojima radimo
jesu: revitalizacija napuštenog parka u središtu grada Street Art park, u sklopu kojega ćemo održavati radionice, projekcije i izložbe, koji će trajati od lipnja do rujna. Također ćemo pokrenuti street-art ture u Zagrebu, ponovno oslikati kultnu Branimirovu ulicu, te sudjelovati na raznim festivalima diljem regije i šire i još mnogo toga. Našoj se metropoli, čini se, smiješi šarena budućnost.
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hey are street painters and have their street names, such as Oko (The Eye), Lunar, the only lady among them, Lonac (Pot), the Pimp my Pump Collective and Chez 186. Whilst walking through Zagreb, passing open areas or some out-of-the-way spots, one will often stop to observe a large drawing, sign or motif. Some are even hidden in underground garages. Zagreb has many old buildings; some are kept up, others are not and feature decaying facades… But when artists grab their paint and brushes and become inspired by the exterior, things take a turn for the better. An urban environment becomes lively, fun and positive, and it also offers a message. For whom? For everyone that passes by; their art is universal and aimed at anyone who stops to look at it. Our street artists have held numerous exhibitions, worked with gal-
Real Graffiti in the City Chez 186 & Sarme - 2014 (Industrial Bar)
Stranded Ship Chez 186, 2015 (Sava) CROATIA AIRLINES
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you have to be persistent when your work is constantly being destroyed and painted over, day in, day out… But the reactions of people are wonderful, and mostly supportive. When they approach me, I am sometimes shy and don’t know what to say, but I try to stay open towards people, and everything usually turns out ok. I use wall paint, brushes and rollers, but lately I’ve also been using spray cans. Apart from Croatia, I have also worked in France, Spain, and America… This year, I am planning a trip to France, where I have several exhibitions lined up, as well as projects in England and one in Croatia - once again at Zagreb’s Museum of Contemporary Art. I am proud that a gallery in New York has started selling my prints, so everything has been going in an international direction for me lately.
The Witch of Grič Pimp my Pump - 2015 (Mlinar Stairs)
Alan Ford Pimp my Pump 2016 (Kustošija)
leries, participated in multimedia projects, painted in foreign cities… But, let’s take it from the beginning.
Miro Modul Petković and Boris Bare aka Pimp my Pump duo
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Oko - I think I became recognizable for my black and white animal characters. I get inspired by books, books and books, as well as documentaries and an occasional movie, says the renowned artist. - The message contained within my work is aimed at everyone, but I have a feeling I seek communication with those who are open-minded enough to ask themselves some classic questions about the meaning of life. When I start to work, I first study the history of a particular place, city or neighbourhood in which I am about to paint, as well as the local customs. I admit it takes a strong will;
Lunar He has been a true street-art star for quite some time now. He is a renowned artist who regularly holds exhibitions and works on major projects. - I approach work in the open like I do working on paper, except I dedicate a little more time to the painting itself, and the technique is different. A rough sketch on paper is the base, and I often improvise on the wall; I play with shapes and colours. I get inspiration from my own experience, which I roll through my own filters and then turn into my work. This can be anything: a chance encounter on the street, love, a good book… The options are diverse. As far as messages go, some of my work has it, some does not… I like playing around on a surface, and sometimes, trying
Space Time Modul - 2015 (SC)
Fakin IPA, Pimp my Pump - 2015 (Tkalčićeva) CROATIA AIRLINES
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an underpass in Italian Cassino as part of the Memorie Urbane Festival, and later this year, I will be going to Florida to paint in the Canvas Festival.
Spock Pimp my Pump - 2015 (Trešnjevka)
out a font style or having fun with the shapes I find on the surface. When I communicate messages, I try to point out the ones that can be applied to all humans. I rarely reference particular events, people or areas. Apart from that, the messages are meant for anyone who wants to read and interpret them. When I communicate something on the outside, I want it to make sense, and I stand behind my words. When I give criticism, I like it to be constructive. The beginning goes like this: if I am not familiar with the subject matter, I first study it and make a sketch of my comment so that I have a better understanding of it. My wish is to do the best work I can, which makes me happy, and helps me contribute to better communication between creative people who push boundaries in the right direction, no matter what field they are from. I also love it when passers-by comment. If I had a kuna for every time I heard the phrase: I like what you draw, but do not like graffiti, I would have built a skyscraper by now. Lunar often uses spray and acrylic paint, which he applies with a brush, roller or paintbrush. However, he does not refrain from spilling wine or coffee on a piece of paper and drawing with that either. His favourite motifs are animals. - I mostly draw tapirs, badgers, bears, wolves, and deer… But people mostly remember me for my cats. Do I consider myself an artist? Well, I don’t think about it. I let others judge for themselves. When media people insist on labels, then yes, I present myself as that. However, I also dabble in design, illustrations, graffiti, photography, painting… Therefore, it is easier to put it all under one name - artist, if I must. I often travel, I have just come back from Bogota and I am just selecting photos from it. In April, I had an exhibition opening - Lines & Fills at the Boonika Studio in Zagreb; I made a guest appearance in Lauba, then attended a street134
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art festival in Munich and made another guest appearance at an exhibition in Amsterdam… Lonac Another street-art star who reveals that he loves to paint facades with surreal, realistic or symbolic images, as well as intervene in run down spaces. - I am inspired by everyday things, events, music, people that I am surrounded by and works by other artists, says Lonac. And the message? - Not every piece on the street has to have a message. Maybe people are used to it; if something is on the street, it must have some sort of meaning… If it does, it is mostly - consume! Some pieces are enough just for themselves, but the viewer always has the freedom of interpretation, of course. However, if I do write something next to my piece, it is because text gives a fuller meaning to the work of art, but that does not mean that everyone has to get it, nor that it is aimed at a particular audience. The wall itself, as well as everything on it, including the surrounding area, is my main inspiration for an intervention. I try to come up with something that logically blends into the wall or I try to make it stand out even more with my piece. Good examples are the pieces: Heartbeats, Medika Diving, Ambush, and Nest… For murals, I mostly use sprays, and sometimes façade paint as well. Sprays dry much quicker so some details are easier to do using that technique. As far as my popular characters go, some say it’s fish. Still, each piece functions in its own right, so I often jump from motif to motif. Maybe that is my artistic expression or style, if you want to call it that, which makes my work recognizable to people. I generally consider myself a creative person who invests energy mostly into painting, whether it’s a huge mural or a piece of canvas in a studio. My work also includes travel: I have painted the wall of
Chez 186 People recognize him for his wide pallet of paint colours , as well as for the pretty unusual combination of styles, letters and abstract shapes, which he always attempts to place within the format of the wall. - I don’t think I try to send any sort of message with my work, it is simply a part of me that I leave on the street and expect nothing in return, says Chez 186. However, if someone reads into my work and gets a message out of it, good for them. I come up with ideas for my work spontaneously, on the spot; such an approach suits me best and yields the best results. This is why the process of drawing is much more interesting and dynamic for me, and the final result is always something new and unplanned. While I work, passers-by usually make some kind of a comment; they are mostly positive reactions; most people value our work, although I think they do not understand exactly what we are doing… However, they do realize a lot of energy and effort has been invested into the whole thing, and that it takes a great deal of creativity, so not everyone can do it. I have a feeling they appreciate us. My main tool has always been a spray can, while I occasionally use façade paints. Lately, my work has been gaining a sort of organic look; the motifs are intertwined and complex, and in perfect order and motion. It sometimes seems to me like I am an artist, but, then again, sometimes it does not… I am proud of my projects; I have several coming up in Zagreb, as well as numerous guest appearances all over Croatia and in several European cities. I also have quite a lot of work in my atelier, where I am preparing works for my next exhibition. Stripy Pimp my Pump, 2016 (Trnje)
Zet-ov tramvaj - Muzej Ferdinand Budicki kolaboracija Chez186 & Modul
PMP / Lapo Lapo A few years ago, Zagreb got a new urban detail - old water pumps, called Francek, located across Zagreb’s neighbourhoods, got a new look. Authors from the Pimp my Pump Collective came up with a great trick and became recognizable authors on our street-art scene overnight. The pumps are always comical characters or film stars that innovatively fit into a grey exterior. Nowadays, their signature is also on many other urban pieces. The PMP Collective and the Lapo Lapo Street Art Studio are headed by Boris Bare and Miro Modul Petković. In terms of work, they say their goal is always to surprise. - Taking into consideration a wide opus of motifs and styles, each time we try to do something new by using real styles from geometry, abstraction and realism to calligraphy. We are inspired by everything that we see, hear and feel. Oftentimes, travel is the main source of our inspiration. When it comes to our work, we want to spread positive thoughts and bring old stuff back to life, give them a soul and bring joy to ourselves and the people around us. The works are aimed at everyone. We want to show that something new, special and positive can be created out of anything. We come up with our works depending on the structure: its look, material and space. And the colours… It depends on how we feel that day! Apart from that, it is impossible to avoid the curious glances of onlookers; the reactions are mostly positive, which pushes us to do bigger, better, and more beautiful things. People recognize us mostly for our combination of comics, film and music - everything we have come across in our lives. In our work, we use spray paint, acrylic paint, brushes, metal paint and wall paint, but it all depends on the surface we are working on. Bare and Petković are working on numerous other urban projects: within the Lapo Lapo Studio, there is a museum featuring works by acknowledged regional street artists. - Other projects we are working on are: the revitalization of the abandoned park in the city centre, called Street Art Park, where, we will be organizing workshops, screenings and exhibitions between June and September. We will also be initiating street-art tours in Zagreb, and, once again, painting the renowned Branimirova Street mural; we are set to partake in various festivals across the region and beyond, as well as participate in many other activities. Our capital seems to be looking at a bright and colourful future. CROATIA AIRLINES
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5 Toliko ekskluzivno. Potpun pristup. Dobar osjećaj, zar ne?
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7 Sve to čeka upravo vas. Naš svijet mogućnosti stalno se mijenja. Počnite istraživati danas.
nternetska stranica o svjetskim odredištima Priceless® Cities (www.priceless.com) nudi korisnicima MasterCard® kartica iskustva u gradovima u kojima žive i u koje putuju koja nitko drugi nema - uključujući jedinstvene mogućnosti, privilegiran pristup raznim događanjima te posebne ponude trgovaca. Trenutno je uključeno preko 40 odredišta, dostupnih iz više od 70 zemalja. Priceless Cities daju nam odgovor na vječno pitanje što želim raditi danas na načine koje nismo ni sanjali. Evo nekih od brojnih mogućnosti: kao korisnici MasterCard kartica možete ostvariti posebne ponude na Roland Garrosu u Parizu ili upoznati Berlin kroz ekskluzivne obilaske. Stoga, za što god bili raspoloženi, bilo da je to posjet umjetnicima iza scene ili jednostavna kupnja karata za slavnu predstavu, sigurni smo da ćete na priceless.com naći više od očekivanoga - jedinstveno iskustvo koje se zaista ne može kupiti novcem.
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he global online destination site Priceless® Cities (www.priceless.com) enables MasterCard® cardholders to have experiences in Cities where they live and travel that are not available to anyone else - including once in a lifetime opportunities, privileged event access, and special merchant offers. Currently, there are more than 40 destinations accessible from over 70 countries. Priceless Cities can help us answer the age-old question Away do you want to do
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4 Imate MasterCard®? Savršeno! Kartica u ruci sve je što vam treba da nam se pridružite.
6 Jedi. Igraj se. Kupuj. Odsjedni. Pozivnice za ekskluzivna događanja. Vrhunske ponude. VIP život.
7 REASONS WHY you need to explore Priceless Cities today 1 The world's greatest cities. So much metropolitan magnificence to be experienced. 2 Here. There. Everywhere. Amazing things are happening where you live - and travel to. 3 Detour the everyday. When tourists go this way, you go the other way. today in ways we probably have never dreamed of. One can choose from a changing range of benefits at restaurants, hotels and at cultural and sports events. Here are some of the opportunities: as a MasterCard cardholder you can benefit from exclusive advantages at Roland-Garros in Paris or discover the Berlin with exclusive tours. So whatever you are in the mood for a behind the scenes tour, a cutting of the lines or soughtafter tickets to a great show, we are sure that at priceless.com you will find what you probably didn’t expect - one-of-a-kind experience that money truly cannot buy.
4 Got a MasterCard®? Perfect! A card in your hand is all it takes to join in. 5 So very exclusive. Ultimate insider access. Feels good, doesn't it? 6 Eat. Play. Shop. Stay. Invitation-only events. Premium offerings. The VIP life. 7 It's all waiting for you. Our world of possibilities if ever-changing. Start exploring today.
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Posjetite Kliniku Svjetlost i promijenite pogled na svijet Visit the Svjetlost Eye Clinic and change your view of the world Hrvatska je zemlja prirodnih ljepota, budite sigurni da ništa ne propuštate Croatia is a land of natural beauties; be sure you don’t miss anything
Prof. dr. sc. Nikica Gabrić, osnivač i ravnatelj Klinike Svjetlost / Prof. Nikica Gabric, PhD, Founder and Director of Svjetlost Eye Clinic
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rvatska je zemlja prirodnih ljepota, bogate kulture i tradicije, a u to ste se zacijelo i sami uvjerili ako ovdje živite ili ste barem jedanput ovdje boravili, bilo poslovno, bilo turistički. Iako je Hrvatska sve popularnije turističko odredište, pa se zato o njoj zna sve više, veoma je mnogo zanimljivosti koje su vam eventualno i promaknule. Primjerice, jeste li znali da Hrvatska ima 1246 otoka i oko 2715 sunčanih sati godišnje? Hrvatska ima i najljepši zalazak sunca, točnije Zadar, može li se vjerovati riječima redatelja Alfreda Hitchcocka. Ili, jeste li znali da se na gotovo 10 posto hrvatskog teritorija proteže 11 parkova prirode, osam nacionalnih parkova i dva prirodna rezervata? Jeste li sigurni da vaše oči ništa ne propuštaju? Sve navedeno itekako vrijedi vidjeti i doživjeti, baš svaki detalj. A kad smo već kod toga, jeste li sigurni da vaše oči ništa ne propuštaju? Suvremeni tempo života i izlaganje očiju različitim podražajima koji nemaju blagonaklon utjecaj na vid, kao što je to primjerice dugotrajno gledanje u ekran računala, rezultirali su time da gotovo svaki drugi stanovnik razvijenih zemalja ima određene probleme s vidom. Imate li problema s dioptrijom oka, najpouzdanije i najpraktičnije rješenje jest lasersko skidanje dioptrije. Nosite li naočale ili leće, onda znate kako ta pomagala osobitu smetnju predstavljaju tijekom ljetnih mjeseci, na ljetovanju, jer na plaži i u moru uvijek su višak bez kojega biste rado htjeli živjeti. Premda odluku o laserskom skidanju dioptrije neki uporno odgađaju, taj je zahvat jednostavniji nego Dr. Maja Bohač, voditeljica Odsjeka za refraktivnu kirurgiju / Dr. Maja Bohac, Head of the Department of Refractive Surgery
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Oftalmološki Oscar potvrda je stručnosti i kvalitete cijelog tima / ICO - OSCAR is confirmation of the expertise and guality of the entire team
što mislite i može mu se podvrgnuti 95 posto osoba starijih od 18 godina s dioptrijom od -10.0 do +6 i do ±6 cilindara astigmatizma. Toga se ne treba bojati jer lasersko skidanje dioptrije potpuno je bezbolan i siguran zahvat, a traje samo desetak minuta. Riješite probleme s vidom u Klinici Svjetlost, najvećoj oftalmološkoj klinici u ovom dijelu Europe Imate li probleme s vidom, koje biste rado brzo i sigurno riješili, trebate znati kako je rješenje nadohvat ruke - u Klinici Svjetlost. Riječ je o najvećoj i najopremljenijoj oftalmološkoj klinici u ovom
dijelu Europe, koja već 18 godina pruža potpunu oftalmološku uslugu, od najosnovnijih pregleda očiju do kompleksnih operativnih zahvata. Klinika Svjetlost svoje centre ima u Zagrebu i Splitu, ali i u Sarajevu te Banjoj Luci. U Klinici Svjetlost do sada se liječilo više od 300.000 pacijenata, a najveće jamstvo velike kvalitete jest 40 vrhunskih oftalmologa koji rade s najmodernijom dostupnom tehnologijom. S više od 100.000 operativnih zahvata iza sebe, ti vrhunski stručnjaci svakom pacijentu pristupaju individualno i pronalaze najbolje moguće rješenje za sve očne probleme.
Doc. Ratimir Lazić, voditelj Odsjeka za retinu / Ratimir Lazic, Head of the Retinal Department
Dr. Marija Antičić, voditeljica Poslovne jedinice Split / Dr. Marija Anticic, Head of the Business Unit Split
Osoblje Klinike Svjetlost u Zagrebu / Svjetlost Eye Clinic personnel in Zagreb
U Klinici Svjetlost možete se brzo i bezbolno riješiti i sive mrene, očnog oboljenja koje se počinje pojavljivati već u srednjoj životnoj dobi. Klinika Svjetlost poznata je i po kompleksnim zahvatima transplantacije rožnice i vitrektomije (operacija očne pozadine), operacijama glaukoma, operacijama strabizma, plastičnim operacijama vjeđa i drugim zahvatima na oku. Ta ustanova također je među vodećim europskim klinikama po iskustvu ugradnje suvremenih Symfony intraokularnih leća s proširenim rasponom vida, kojima je moguće riješiti se i mrene i dioptrije istodobno. Oftalmološki Oscar kao potvrda stručnosti i kvalitete Potvrda velike stručnosti i kvalitete Klinike Svjetlost stigla je s najvećega i najprestižnijega svjetskoga videokiruškog kongresa Videocatarattarefrattiva Milano 2015. Stručnjaci Klinike Svjetlost na čelu s prof. dr. sc. Nikicom Gabrićem obavili su pet kompliciranih operativnih zahvata u samo 60 minuta i osvojili oftalmološkog Oscara u jakoj i respektabilnoj konkurenciji. Stoga, ako boravite u Hrvatskoj ili dolazite u posjet, a imate probleme s vidom, sjetite se da je Klinika Svjetlost najbolji izbor za vaše oči. Za više informacija posjetite www.svjetlost.hr ili kontaktirajte jedan od centara u Hrvatskoj.
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roatia is a land of natural beauties, rich culture and heritage, which, by now, you must know if you live here or have visited at least once either for business reasons or travel. Even though Croatia is becoming more and more of a popular tourist destination, and the word is getting out, there are probably still many interesting facts you may not know about it. For instance, did you know Croatia has 1246 islands and around 2715 sunshine hours a year? Croatia also has the most beautiful sunsets, more specifically in Zadar, if Director Alfred Hitchcock is to be believed. And did you know that almost ten percent of the Croatian territory stretches over eleven Nature parks, eight National parks and two Nature reserves?
Be sure your eyes don’t miss a thing! All of this is well worth seeing and experiencing - each and every detail. And while we’re at it, are you sure your eyes aren’t missing anything? The modern tempo of life and exposing your eyes to different stimuli, like long periods of staring at a computer screen, can have a detrimental effect on your eyesight, which is why almost every second citizen living in an advanced society has some vision difficulties. If you are experiencing difficulties with eye diopter, the most reliable and practical solution is laser vision correction. If you wear eyeglasses or contact lenses, then you know how annoying these can be during the summer months or when on vacation. On the beach and in the sea, they are more of a nuisance than anything else when all you want to do is be free of all restrictions. Even though some people delay getting laser vision correction, this procedure is far simpler than first thought. Besides that, 95% of adults are perfect candidates if their eye diopter is in the range of -10.0 to +6 and to ±6 cylinders of astigmatism. There is no reason for any fear, since laser vision correction is a completely painless and safe procedure, and lasts only about ten minutes. Solve your eyesight problems at Klinika Svjetlost, the biggest ophthalmologic clinic in this part of Europe If you have any problems with your eyesight, and would like to fix it quickly and safely, you should know the solution is close at hand - at the Svjetlost Eye Clinic. Svjetlost is the biggest and most modern ophthalmologist clinic in this part of Europe, providing complete ophthalmologic services for the past 18 years, from basic eye evaluations to complex surgical procedures. It has centers in Zagreb and Split, but also in Sarajevo and Banja Luka. The Svjetlost Eye Clinic has treated over 300,000 patients so far, with the biggest guarantors of exceptional quality being the 40 first-rate ophthalmologists working on the most modern technology available. With
over 100,000 surgical procedures under their belt, these top experts approach each patient with individual care and find the best possible solutions for all eye problems. Besides laser vison correction, at the Svjetlost Eye Clinic, you can painlessly take care of cataracts, an eye disease that often develops during middle age. Klinika Svjetlost is renowned for many complex procedures, such as corneal transplants and vitrectomies, glaucoma operations, strabismus operations, plastic operations of eyelashes and other eye procedures. Svjetlost is also among the leading European clinics experienced in implementing modern Symfony intraocular lenses with wide aperture range, which provides solutions for cataracts and diopter at the same time. Ophthalmological Oscar as the acknowledgement of expertise and quality The Svjetlost Eye Clinic was acknowledged for its exceptional expertise and quality by the biggest and most prestigious world eye surgery congress Videocatarattarefrattiv Milano 2015. The Svjetlost experts, headed by Prof. Nikica Gabrić, PhD performed five complicated operations in only 60 minutes and took home the ‘Ophthalmological Oscar’ in a strong and respectable competition. Therefore, if you reside in Croatia, or are just arriving for a visit and have eyesight issues, remember that the Svjetlost Eye Clinic is the best choice for your eyesight. For more information, visit www.svjetlost.hr or contact one of our local centers in Croatia.
Zagreb, Heinzelova 39 e-mail: info@svjetlost.hr tel: +385 1 777 5656 Split, Borisa Papandopula 8b e-mail: split@svjetlost.hr tel: +385 21 783 050 CROATIA AIRLINES
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LIPANJ/ JUNE Zagreb i okolica / Zagreb and surroundings lipanj-rujan /June-September, Zagreb POSJETITE MODERNU GALERIJU/ VISIT THE MODERN GALLERY Fundus Moderne galerije s više od 11.000 muzejskih predmeta najbogatija je zbirka hrvatske likovne umjetnosti novijeg doba. Važan je dio stalnog postava MG Taktilna Galerija, prva multisenzorna galerija namijenjena slijepim i slabovidnim osobama u ovom dijelu Europe./ The holdings of the Modern Gallery, featuring more than 11.000 museum items, are the richest collection of Croatian fine art in more recent times. An important part of the permanent exhibit is the MG Tactile Gallery, the first multi-sensory gallery aimed at blind people in this part of Europe. www.moderna-galerija.hr 20.- 22. 6., Zagreb INMUSIC FESTIVAL/ INMUSIC FESTIVAL INmusic će ove godine doživjeti 11. izdanje. Zagrebački Jarun još će jedanput na tri dana postati odredište sjajnih koncerata, a publiku će zabaviti Florence & The Machine, PJ Harvey, Wilco, The Kooks i mnogi drugi./ This year’s, 11th edition of INmusic, taking place at Zagreb’s Jarun Lake, will, once again, feature three days of excellent concerts, leaving audiences entertained by the likes of Florence & The Machine, PJ Harvey, Wilco, The Kooks and many others. www.inmusicfestival.com 18.6., Čigoć DAN EUROPSKOG SELA RODA/ EUROPEAN VILLAGE OF STORKS DAY U Čigoću živi oko stotinu dvadeset mještana i njihovih dvjestotinjak ljubimaca - roda. S obzirom na njihov skladan suživot, Čigoć je proglašen prvim europskim selom roda. Na dan sela organizirat će razne radionice i nastupe kulturno-umjetničkih društava. Očekuje vas i velika ponuda autohtone hrane./ Čigoč has about 120 inhabitants and around 200 stork pets. Considering their harmonious coexistence, Čigoč has been proclaimed the first European Village of Storks. On the cel-
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ebratory day, various workshops and performances by cultural and artistic societies will be organized. Visitors can also expect a diverse gastronomic offer of autochthonous food. www.pp-lonjsko-polje.hr Osijek i okolica / Osijek and surroundings lipanj - srpanj /June - July, Osijek OSJEČKO LJETO KULTURE/ OSIJEK - SUMMER OF CULTURE Ovaj je festival najveći u istočnoj Hrvatskoj. U staroj baroknoj Tvrđi održava se veliki kazališno-umjetnički festival. Na više lokacija možete pogledati kazališne i kino predstave, izložbe, performanse i druga zanimljiva kulturnoumjetnička događanja./ This festival is the largest festival in eastern Croatia. The old Baroque fort is home to a large theatre and art festival. Throughout several locations, visitors will have an opportunity to attend theatre plays and film screenings, exhibitions, performances and other interesting cultural and artistic events. www.kultura-osijek.com Pula i okolica / Pula and surroundings lipanj - rujan /June - September, Grožnjan GROŽNJANSKO GLAZBENO LJETO/THE GROŽNJAN MUSIC SUMMER Međunarodni kulturni centar Hrvatske glazbene mladeži u Grožnjanu djeluje kao svojevrsni međunarodni kulturni laboratorij od 1969. godine. Na malim gradskim trgovima i u crkvama održavaju se koncerti. Glazbeni stilovi su najrazličitiji - od jazza do komorne glazbe./ The International Cultural Centre of Croatian Musical Youth in Grožnjan has been working as an international cultural laboratory of sorts since 1969. The small town squares and churches are venues for concerts of various musical genres, ranging from jazz to chamber music. www.tz-groznjan.hr Zadar i okolica / Zadar and surroundings 21.6., Pakoštane PAKOŠKI PORTUNI I KANTUNI/ THE GATES AND CORNERS OF PAKOŠTANE Posjetite ovu etnološku gastronom-
sku manifestaciju na kamenim portunima lijepih Pakoštana./Visit this ethno-gastronomic event at the stone gates of beautiful Pakoštane. www.pakostane.hr 25.6., Pakoštane FESTIVAL KLAPA ŠKOLJKA/ THE SHELL KLAPA FESTIVAL Ovo je glazbeno-scenski spektakl koji okuplja najbolje izvođače dalmatinskih klapskih pjesama iz cijele Hrvatske, kao i sve ljubitelje te vrste glazbe. Festival je natjecateljske prirode i održava se na posebnoj pozornici u obliku školjke./ This is a stage music spectacle that brings together the best performers of Dalmatian klapa singing (male a capella groups) from all over Croatia, as well as numerous fans of this kind of music. The festival is competitive and it takes place on a special shell-shaped stage. www.pakostane.hr Šibenik i okolica / Šibenik and surroundings 29. 6. - 6. 7., Tisno LOVE INTERNATIONAL Tisno, malo mjesto blizu Šibenika, ove će godine postati prijestolnicom zabave za sve one željne dobre elektroničke glazbe. Očekuju vas četiri različite pozornice i dva broda, uz DJ-je kao što su Axel Boman, Lord of The Isles, Roman Flugel… A samo dan nakon završetka ovog festivala, počinje novi, Electric Elephant./ Tisno, a small town near Šibenik, will become the centre of entertainment for all fans of good electronic music this year. Visitors can expect four stages and two ships, including DJ’s, such as Axel Boman, Lord of The Isles, Roman Flugel… Just a day after this festival ends, another one - Electric Elephant - begins. loveinternationalfestival.com Dubrovnik i okolica / Dubrovnik and surroundings 21.6., Dubrovnik FESTIVAL ANA U GRADU/ FESTIVAL - ANA IN THE CITY Prvog dana ljeta, na Svjetski dan glazbe, poznata hrvatska violončelistica Ana Rucner održat će u sklopu * Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara * This schedule is valid on May 24th. Allow for changes after this date.
svog autorskog festivala spektakularan koncert na Srđu s početkom u 5 sati ujutro te će, u društvu mnogobrojnih turista, dočekati izlazak sunca./ On the first day of summer, the World Day of Music, the renowned Croatian violoncellist Ana Rucner will hold a spectacular concert as part of her festival at Srđ, beginning at 5 a.m., when she will be watching the sun come up together with numerous tourists. www.tzdubrovnik.hr SRPANJ/JULY Zagreb i okolica / Zagreb and surroundings 1. - 7.7., Zagreb 5. FESTIVAL MIROSLAV KRLEŽA/ THE 5th MIROSLAV KRLEŽA FESTIVAL Ovaj festival na Krležinom Gvozdu u Memorijalnom centru Miroslava i Bele Krleže te na drugim Krležinim zagrebačkim adresama potvrdio se kao sretno mjesto susreta Krleže, umjetnika i publike./ The festival, taking place at Krležin Gvozd in the Memorial Centre of Miroslav and Bela Krleža, as well as Krleža’s other addresses across Zagreb, has declared itself to be the place for gatherings - both for artists and the general public. www.mgz.hr Gospić i okolica / Gospić and surroundings 23.7., Otočac EKO-ETNO GACKA/ ECO-ETHNO GACKA Eko-Etno Gacka okuplja izlagače autohtonih proizvoda Like i drugih županija. Uz izložbeno-prodajni sajam suvenira, rukotvorina i autohtonih prehrambenih proizvoda, posjetitelji će moći uživati i u popratnim događanjima te u nastupima kulturnoumjetničkih udruga./ The Eco Ethno Gacka event brings together exhibitors of autochthonous products from Lika and other counties. Apart from
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a fair of souvenirs, handicrafts and autochthonous food items, visitors will also have an opportunity to enjoy performances by cultural and artistic associations. www.tz-otocac.hr Pula i okolica / Pula and surroundings srpanj-kolovoz/July-August, Mali Brijun KAZALIŠTE ULYSSES/ ULYSSES THEATRE Ovo kazalište, koje je preraslo u ljetni festival sa sve više predstava i kulturnih događanja, i ovog će ljeta ploviti punim jedrima. Bit će to jedno od najzanimljivijih kazališnih žarišta u Europi. Ova 16. sezona Kazališta Ulysses posvećena je 400. obljetnici Williama Shakespearea. Jedan od ključnih događaja ovogodišnje sezone gostovanje je predstave Richard III u režiji Ruperta Goolda sa slavnim Ralphom Fiennesom u naslovnoj ulozi i oskarovkom Vanessom Redgrave, u tvrđavi Minor na Malom Brijunu, 11.,12. i 13. kolovoza./ This theatre, which has grown into a summer festival with several performances and cultural events, is sailing at full speed this summer as well. It will be one of the most interesting theatre hotspots in Europe. The 16th season of Ulysses Theatre is devoted to the 400th anniversary of William Shakespeare. One of the season’s highlights is the visiting performance Richard III directed by Rupert Goold with famous Ralph Fiennes in the main role and Oscar winner Vanessa Redgrave, taking place at Minor Fort on Mali Brijun on 11th, 12th and 13th August. www.ulysses.hr
8.-22.7. ROVINJ JAZZ FESTIVAL/ THE ROVINJ JAZZ FESTIVAL Rovinj, jedan od najimpozantnijih gradova u regiji, ugostit će brojne vrhunske jazz-izvođače. Festival će vam predstaviti najbolje od suvremene jazz-glazbe i drugih glazbenih žanrova./ Rovinj, one of the most impressive cities in the region, will host numerous top class jazz performers. The festival will present the best of contemporary jazz music and other music genres. www.jazz.hr
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9. - 16.7., Pula PULA FILM FESTIVAL/ THE PULA FILM FESTIVAL Ovaj atraktivni festival ove će godine biti održan 63. put. Na festival je prijavljeno rekordnih 105 filmova. Ako ste ljubitelj sedme umjetnosti, ovo ljeto otiđite u pulsku Arenu pogledati film pod zvjezdanim nebom…/ This attractive festival will take place for the 63rd time this year. A record number of 105 films are to be included in the festival’s program. If you are a fan of movies, visit the Pula Arena this summer and see a film under the open sky… www.pulafilmfestival.hr 15. - 24.7., Umag 27. CROATIA OPEN UMAG/ 27th CROATIA OPEN UMAG Ljetni ATP turnir, koji se u Umagu održava više od 20 godina, vrhunac je turističke sezone u sjeverozapadnoj Istri i jedan od najvažnijih sportskih i društvenih događaja u Hrvatskoj. U gradu tih dana borave tenisači svjetskog ranga i ljubitelji bijelog sporta./ The summer ATP Tournament, which has been taking place in Umag for more than 20 years, is considered to be the peak of the tourist season in north-western Istria and one of the most important sporting and social events in Croatia. During the tournament, the city is host to globally-renowned tennis players and numerous fans of tennis. www.croatiaopen.hr 21. - 24. 7, Pula SEASPLASH FESTIVAL/ THE SEASPLASH FESTIVAL Jedan od najdugovječnijih glazbenih festivala na našem tlu, ove godine bit će održan 14. put. Održava se na čarobnoj lokaciji tvrđave Punta Christo pokraj Pule, a u četiri dana posjetitelji će plesati ispred sedam pozornica, uživati na plaži i sudjelovati u radionicama./ One of the oldest music festivals in Croatia will take place for the 14th time this year in the magical location of Fort Punta Christo near Pula. During the four-day festival, visitors will have an opportunity to dance in front of seven stages, enjoy the beach and partake in various workshops. www.pozitivanritam.hr 23.7., Pula JOSÉ CARRERAS ∑ HUMANITARNI KONCERT/ JOSÉ CARRERAS - A HUMANITARIAN CONCERT Španjolski tenor José Carreras dolazi u pulsku Arenu u sklopu posljednje svjetske turneje A Life in Music. Ovaj jedinstveni glazbeni doživljaj humanitarnog je obilježja. Gledatelji će uživati u svjetski poznatim melodijama uz pratnju Simfonijskog orkestra HNK Ivana pl. Zajca iz Rijeke. Carrerasu
će se na pozornici pod zvjezdanim nebom pridružiti i naša čelistica Ana Rucner, te sopranistica Martina Zadro. Taj glazbeni spektakl možda je posljednja prilika za uživanje u prekrasnoj glazbi toga glazbenog virtuoza u Hrvatskoj. / Spanish Tenor Jose Carreras is coming to the Pula Arena as part of his latest world tour, A Life in Music. This unique musical experience is a humanitarian event. Visitors will have an opportunity to enjoy world famous melodies with backing from the Symphony Orchestra of the Croatian National Theatre of Ivan pl. Zajc from Rijeka. On stage, under the open sky, Carreras will be joined by Croatian violoncellist Ana Rucner and soprano Martina Zadro. This musical spectacle might be the last opportunity to enjoy the beautiful music of this virtuoso in Croatia. www.culturenet.hr
26. - 30. 7., Motovun MOTOVUN FILM FESTIVAL/ THE MOTOVUN FILM FESTIVAL U Motovunu, istarskom gradiću kao iz bajke, filmovi se rado gledaju već dvadesetak godina. Gradić u dane filma vrvi posjetiteljima i stoga se potrudite da potkraj srpnja budete u Motovunu./ Motovun, an Istrian fairy-tale-like town, has been host to the film festival for some twenty years now. During the festival, the small town is packed with visitors, so make sure to be there, as well as in late July. www.motovunfilmfestival.com 22. - 25. 7., Svetvinčenat 17. FESTIVAL PLESA I NEVERBALNOG KAZALIŠTA/ THE 17th FESTIVAL OF DANCE AND NON-VERBAL THEATRE Jedini ljetni plesni festival u Hrvatskoj i tradicionalno okupljalište mnogih plesnih umjetnika i pedagoga te brojne i odane publike. U dvanaest godina održavanja prikazano je više od 160 plesnih predstava iz cijeloga svijeta./This is the only summer dance festival in Croatia and a traditional gathering spot for numerous dance artists and pedagogues, as well as numerous and devoted audiences. In twelve years, it has featured over 160 dance performances from all over the world. www. svetvincenatfestival.com
Rijeka i okolica / Rijeka and surroundings 1.-2.7., Novi Vinodolski MEĐUNARODNI LJETNI KARNEVAL/ AN INTERNATIONAL SUMMER FESTIVAL Sudjelujte na maštovitim ljetnim karnevalskim događanjima u središtu grada. Velika dječja povorka, 1.7., popraćena je prigodnim programom, a 2.7. održat će se velika internacionalna karnevalska povorka./Take part in the imaginative summer carnival events in the city centre. A large children’s procession on July 1st will also feature an appropriate program, while a large international carnival procession will take place on July 2nd. www.tz-novi-vinodolski.hr 1.-3.7., Opatija LIBURNIA JAZZ-FESTIVAL/ THE LIBURNIA JAZZ FESTIVAL Ovaj je festival već godinama referentna točka hrvatskoga i europskog jazza. Tijekom trajanja festivala jazzglazba može se čuti s gotovo svake terase, ali i s mora, jer opatijskim akvatorijem tada plovi popularni Jazz Boat. Svakoga dana na Ljetnoj pozornici nastupaju glavne festivalske zvijezde. / This jazz festival has been a reference point for Croatian and European jazz for a number of years now. During the festival, jazz music can be heard from almost every terrace, but also from the sea and from the popular Jazz Boat that sails the waters around Opatija. Every day, the summer stage features performances by festival headliners. www.visitopatija.com 17.7.-21.8., Osor 41. OSORSKE GLAZBENE VEČERI/ THE 41st OSOR MUSICAL EVENINGS Festival klasične glazbe održava se u Osoru od 1976. g. Koncerti se priređuju u osorskoj katedrali, a izvode se djela hrvatskih skladatelja./ This festival of classical music has been taking place in Osor since 1976. The concerts take place at the Osor Cathedral and they feature pieces by Croatian composers. www.osorskeveceri.org 25.-27.7., Rab RAPSKA FJERA 2016/ THE RAB FJERA 2016 Ovaj ljetni srednjovjekovni sajam jedinstven je u Hrvatskoj. Održava se od 2002. godine, kada su obnovljeni općinski blagdani, prvi put proglašeni još u 14. stoljeću. Na Rapskoj fjeri sudjeluju obrtnici, zanatlije i kulturnoumjetnička društva s otoka Raba./ This medieval summer fair is unique in Croatia. It has been taking place since 2002, when municipal holidays, first established back in the 14th century, were reinstated. The Rab Fjera brings
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together artisans, craftsmen and cultural and artistic societies from the Island of Rab. www.tzg-rab.hr Zadar i okolica / Zadar and surroundings 1.7.-3.8., Zadar 21. ZADARSKO KAZALIŠNO LJETO/ THE 21st ZADAR THEATRE SUMMER Manifestacija je to koja posljednja dva desetljeća pobuđuje zanimanje zadarske publike. Očekuje vas niz dramskih, glazbenih i plesnih programa u Lapidariju Muzeja grada./ It is an event that has been attracting the interest of Zadar audiences for the last two decades. Visitors can expect an array of drama, musical and dance programs taking place at the Lapidarium City Museum. www.hnk-zadar.hr 7.7.-14.8. Zadar 54. GLAZBENE VEČERI U SV. DONATU/ THE 54th MUSICAL EVENINGS AT ST. DONATUS Međunarodni glazbeni festival održava se u crkvi sv. Donata. Posjetitelji mogu uživati u koncertima srednjovjekovne, renesansne i glazbe ranog baroka./ This international music festival takes place at the Church of St. Donatus. Visitors can enjoy concerts of medieval, renaissance and early Baroque music. www.donat-festival.com 12.-14.7., Pag FRESH ISLAND FESTIVAL/ THE FRESH ISLAND FESTIVAL Ovaj noviji festival postao je jedno od omiljenih mjesta mladih diljem Europe, koji žele uživati u zvukovima Hip Hop i R&B glazbe. Održat će se i ovoga ljeta na najpopularnijem odredištu za party u Hrvatskoj, plaži Zrće./This relatively new festival has become one of the favourite spots for European youth who enjoy the sounds of Hip Hop and R&B music. Once again, this summer, it will take place at Croatia’s most popular party destination - Zrće Beach. www.fresh-island.org 14.7./ 11.8./ 25.8./ 3.9., Pakoštane MATERINE UŽANCE/ MOTHER’S CUSTOMS Etno-gastronomska manifestacija tijekom koje su uske kamene ulice stare jezgre grada ispunjene okusima i mirisima pomalo zaboravljenih dalmatinskih recepata. Osim tradicionalnih jela koja se pripremaju pred gostima, posjetitelji se mogu upoznati sa starim običajima, zanatima, načinom odijevanja te uživati u autohtonoj glazbi i vinu./ An Ethno - gastronomic event which fills the narrow stone streets of the old
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city centre with the flavours and aromas of somewhat forgotten Dalmatian recipes. Apart from traditional dishes prepared in front of guests, visitors also have an opportunity to become familiar with the old customs, crafts and ways of clothing, as well as enjoy autochthonous music and wine. www.pakostane.hr Šibenik i okolica / Šibenik and surroundings 28.7.-1.8., Tisno i Pirovac MOVEMENT CROATIA/ MOVEMENT CROATIA Posjetite ovaj festival elektroničke glazbe, koji je lani započeo kao klupsko izdanje. Prvi put u Dalmaciji nastupit će Nina Kraviz, a očekuju se nastupi Svena Vätha, Solomuna, Bena Klocka, Davida Moralesa.../ Visit this festival of electronic music, which began last year as a club event. The festival will feature Nina Kraviz’ first performance in Dalmatia, as well as performances by Sven Väth, Solomun, Ben Klock, David Morales... www.movement.hr 29.-30.7., Vodice 13. VODICE JAZZ & BLUES FESTIVAL/ THE 13th VODICE JAZZ & BLUES FESTIVAL Nastupi eminentnih hrvatskih i stranih jazz & blues glazbenika i stilska raznolikost razlog su što vodički festival privlači sve više ljubitelja ove glazbe./ Performances by eminent Croatian and foreign jazz and blues musicians, as well as a variety of styles are reasons why the Vodice festival attracts an increasing numbers of fans of this musical type. www.vodice.hr Split i okolica / Split and surroundings 3.-27.7., Omiš FESTIVAL DALMATINSKIH KLAPA/ THE FESTIVAL OF DALMATIAN KLAPA SINGING Omiški festival okuplja ponajbolje klapske skupine kako bi očuvale i promicale dalmatinske napjeve, ali i kako bi ih osuvremenile./The Omiš festival is host to the best klapa groups (male a capella groups) in order to preserve and promote Dalmatian songs, but also in order to modernize them. www.fdk.hr 15. - 17. 7., Split ULTRA EUROPE Na poljudskom stadionu, među tisućama ljudi željnih zabave, možete se prepustiti vrhunskoj elektroničkoj glazbi. Ove godine od izvođača su najavljeni Armin van Buuren, David Guetta i Afrojack.../ At Poljud Stadium, visitors will have an opportunity to
immerse themselves in excellent electronic music together with thousands of other people looking for fun. Among this year’s performers are Armin van Buuren, David Guetta and Afrojack... www.ultraeurope.com 28.-30.7., Bol na Braču GRAFFITI NA GRADELE/ GRAFFITI ON THE GRILL Regionalni art festival koji će se ovoga ljeta peti put održati u Bolu na Braču. Festival se održava na nekoliko lokacija, a prva od njih je bolska Fabrika gdje će se, kao i prošlih godina, iscrtavati 25-metarski zid. Sudjeluju graffiti writeri iz cijele regije. Uz njihove aktivnosti očekuje vas i glazbeni program./ This is a regional art festival, taking place for the fifth time this year on Bol on the Island of Brač. The festival takes place at several locations, the first of which is the Fabrika of Bol, where a 25-meter wall will be repainted as in previous years. Graffiti writers from the entire region are taking part. Apart from graffiti activity, visitors can also expect a musical program. www.graffitinagradele.com
Više od sto tisuća ljudi dođe u grad za vrijeme trajanja festivala, a cijeli se grad pretvara u grad smijeha i radosti, na ulice izlaze mnogi izvođači, glazbenici, performeri, glumci i zabavljači, trgovci…/ Each year, the streets of Varaždin are the venue for this festival of good emotions. More than 100 thousand people flock to the city during the festival, and the entire city turns into a place of laughter and joy, while numerous performers, musicians, actors, entertainers and merchants do their thing on the streets. www.spancirfest.com Osijek i okolica / Osijek and surroundings 22.8.-27.8., Vukovar VUKOVAR FILM FESTIVAL/ THE VUKOVAR FILM FESTIVAL Jedini filmski festival zajednice podunavskih zemalja, koji se održava na Dunavu. Nastoji predstaviti filmove iz regije./ It is the only film festival of Podunavlje countries that takes place on the Danube River. It strives to promote films from the region. www.vukovarfilmfestival.com Rijeka i okolica / Rijeka and surroundings
Dubrovnik i okolica / Dubrovnik and surroundings 10.7.-25.8., Dubrovnik 67. DUBROVAČKE LJETNE IGRE/ 67th DUBROVNIK SUMMER GAMES Manifestacija Dubrovačke ljetne igre utemeljena je još 1950. godine. Unutar jedinstvenih gradskih zidina možete uživati u vrhunskim dramskim izvedbama i najljepšim djelima klasične glazbe./The Dubrovnik Summer Games were established back in 1950. Inside the unique city walls, visitors can enjoy excellent drama performances and the best pieces of classical music. www.dubrovnik-festival.hr
1.-6.8., Opatija 6. SPFF - SOLO POSITIVO FILM FESTIVAL/ THE 6th SPFF - SOLO POSITIVO FILM FESTIVAL Posjetite Međunarodni festival glazbenog dokumentarca i u bajnom ambijentu Opatije pogledajte filmove svih kategorija kao i hrvatske premijerne filmove./ Visit the International festival of music documentaries, and view films in all categories as well as Croatian premieres in the magical ambiance of Opatija. www.spff.hr 8.-13.8., Senj 45. MEĐUNARODNI SENJSKI LJETNI FESTIVAL/ THE 45th INTERNATIONAL SENJ SUMMER FESTIVAL Jedan je od atraktivnijih ljetnih festivala na Jadranu. Šest dana i noći maškare vladaju gradom te svoj grad pretvaraju u prijestolnicu zabave./It is one of the most attractive festivals on the Adriatic. Masks rule the city for six days and turn their city into a centre for entertainment. www.tz-senj.hr
KOLOVOZ/AUGUST Zagreb i okolica / Zagreb and surroundings 19. - 28.8.,Varaždin ŠPANCIRFEST Svake godine na ulicama Varaždina održava se taj festival dobrih emocija.
15.8., Rijeka,Trsat HODOČAŠĆE NA VELIKU GOSPU/ THE PILGRIMAGE OF THE ASSUMPTION Na Trsatu u Rijeci nalazi se Gospino svetište poznato po mnogim uslišenjima i hodočašćima brojnih vjernika, osobito na dan Velike Gospe./Trsat
The imperial city
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in Rijeka is the site of the sanctuary of Our Lady, known for numerous grants and pilgrimages of numerous believers, especially on the day of the Assumption. www.trsat-svetiste.com 25.-29.8., Ičići, Opatija 13. LIBURNIA FILM FESTIVAL/ THE 13th LIBURNIA FILM FESTIVAL Najstariji festival dokumentarnog filma u Hrvatskoj i jedini koji prikazuje isključivo recentne hrvatske dokumentarce, a odvija se na otvorenom, u lučici Ičići pokraj Opatije. Tijekom dana organizirane su radionice dokumentarnog filma za velike i male, stručna predavanja, a nakon projekcija, koncerti i druga popratna događanja./The Liburnia Film Festival is the oldest festival of documentary film in Croatia and the only festival that screens only the most recent Croatian documentary films. It takes place under the open sky, in Ičići Harbour next to Opatija. During the day, there are various documentary film workshops for kids and adults alike, as well as expert lectures, while concerts and other concurrent events will take place after film screenings. www.liburniafilmfestival.com 26.-27.8., Vrbnik DANI VINA OTOKA KRKA/ DAYS OF WINE FROM THE ISLAND OF KRK Ovom se manifestacijom nastoji obogatiti turistička ponuda otoka Krka izvornim hrvatskim proizvodima. Svake se godine organiziraju stručna predavanja za vinare i vinogradare te prezentacija opreme./This event strives to enrich the tourist package on the Island of Krk with indigenous Croatian products. Specialist lectures for winemakers and vineyard keepers, as well as equipment presentations are organized every year. www.vrbnik.hr
idea of enhancing the lives of citizens and their guests with quality contents. www.tzgpag.hr www.lovropogorelich.net
Split i okolica / Split and surroundings 19. - 20.8, Vrana DANI VITEZOVA VRANSKIH/ THE DAYS OF VRANA KNIGHTS Povijesno-scenski spektakl na kojemu možete osjetiti dašak srednjeg vijeka, vratiti se u prošlost i sresti vitezove, konjanike, dame, sokolare, žonglere... Također možete uživati u gastronomskim delicijama srednjovjekovne kuhinje i sudjelovati na tematskim radionicama./ A historic staged spectacle that provides an insight into the middle ages, and enables visitors to return in time and meet knights, horsemen, ladies, falconers, jugglers… One can also enjoy the gastronomic delicacies of medieval cuisine and partake in themed workshops. www.pakostane.hr 21.8., Pakoštane POMORSKA NOĆNA BITKA/ A NAVAL NIGHT BATTLE Scenski spektakl na moru u kojemu sudjeluju vitezovi na starim jedrenjacima, drvenim galijama te tradicionalnim latinskim jidrima i gajetama./This is a stage spectacle at sea, featuring knights on old sailboats, wooden galleys and traditional Latin jidro and gajeta boats. www.pakostane.hr
Zadar i okolica / Zadar and surroundings 1.-14.8., Pag PAG ART FESTIVAL 2016/ THE PAG ART FESTIVAL - 2016 Renesansni gradić Pag domaćin je tog festivala pod umjetničkim ravnanjem hvatskog pijanista svjetskoga glasa Lovre Pogorelića. Vođen idejom da se što kvalitetnijim sadržajem obogati i oplemeni život građana i njihovih gostiju, pokrenut je ovaj festival ozbiljne glazbe uz poneka umjetnička događanja druge vrste./ The renaissance town of Pag is host to this festival whose art director is globally-renowned Croatian pianist Lovro Pogorelić. This festival of serious music, featuring occasional art events of other kinds, is guided by the
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hrvatske izvođače i autore stihova i glazbe, zauzeo je mjesto među vodećim hrvatskim kulturno-glazbenim festivalima./ The Šibenik festival is recognizable for its organizational and artistic qualities. Presenting the best Croatian performers and authors of lyrics and music, it has become one of the leading Croatian cultural and music festivals. www.sansona-sibenik.com
Šibenik i okolica / Šibenik and surroundings 19. - 20.8. Šibenik 19. VEČERI DALMATINSKE ŠANSONE/THE 19th EVENINGS OF DALMATIAN CHANCON Šibenski je festival prepoznatljiv po kvaliteti u organizacijskom i umjetničkom pogledu. Predstavljajući najbolje
11. - 13. 8., Brač BRAČ FILM FESTIVAL/ THE BRAČ FILM FESTIVAL Međunarodni je festival igranog filma, a održava se u sklopu Supetarskog lita. Posjetiteljima se nude projekcije za djecu, izložbe, radionice, predavanja, okrugli stolovi, večernje projekcije i neizostavni zabavni program. Važan je dio glavnog programa i selekcija kratkometražnih filmova./The Brač Film Festival is an international live action film festival that is being held as part of the Supetar Summer program. Visitors can enjoy kids’ screenings, exhibitions, workshops, lectures, round tables, evening screenings and various other forms of entertainment. A selection of short films is also an important part of the main programme. www.bracfilmfestival.hr 28. - 31.8., Split DANI DIOKLECIJANA/ DIOCLETIAN’S DAYS Ova zabavnoglazbena manifestacija odnosno povijesni spektakl na vjerodostojan način prikazuje vladavinu cara Dioklecijana u Splitu./This entertaining musical event and historic spectacle faithfully recreates Emperor Diocletian’s rule over Split. www.visitsplit.info 5. - 7. 8., Sinj SINJSKA ALKA/ THE ALKA OF SINJ Sinjska alka hrvatska je viteška igra, odnosno natjecanje konjanika u gađanju alke kopljem. Održava se svake godine u početku kolovoza u spomen na pobjedu nad turskim osvajačima 1715.g. Sinjska alka uvrštena je 2010. g. na Unescov popis nematerijalne svjetske baštine u Europi./This is a Croatian knights’ game, in which horsemen compete by aiming at a suspended metal ring, an alka, with a spear whilst riding a horse. It takes place every year in the beginning of August in order to commemorate the victory over Ottoman conquerors in 1715. The Alka of Sinj was included on UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage of Europe in 2010. www.alka.hr
RUJAN/SEPTEMBER Zagreb i okolica / Zagreb and surroundings 14. - 19.9.2016. 49. PIF - MEĐUNARODNI FESTIVAL KAZALIŠTA LUTAKA/ THE 49th PIF - MEĐUNARODNI FESTIVAL KAZALIŠTA LUTAKA Međunarodni festival na kojemu se predstavljaju najpoznatija lutkarska kazališta i predstave. Jedinstveni je festival u Zagrebu i Hrvatskoj. Predstavama, izložbama, okruglim stolovima, seminarima, lutkarskim radionicama, filmovima, izdavačkom djelatnošću i uličnim programima predstavlja se hrvatsko i svjetsko lutkarstvo./ It is an international festival which presents the best puppet theatres and plays. It is a unique festival in Zagreb and Croatia. The plays, exhibitions, round tables, seminars, puppetry workshops, films, publishing activity and street programs present Croatian and global puppetry. www.pif.hr 4.-11.9., Krapina 51. TJEDAN KAJKAVSKE KULTURE/ THE 51st WEEK OF KAJKAVIAN CULTURE Tradicionalna manifestacija kojom se nastoji očuvati i obogatiti kajkavski jezik i običaji Zagorja. Nudi mnoštvo sadržaja, a svake godine završava poznatim Festivalom kajkavskih popevki. This is a traditional event which strives to preserve and enrich the Kajkavian dialect and the customs of Zagorje. It offers a plethora of programs, and each year, it ends with the renowned Festival of Kajkavian Songs. www.tzg-krapina.hr Pula i okolica / Pula and surroundings 16.-18.9., Poreč GIOSTRA Festival posjetitelje tematski vraća u davnu povijest Poreča, a glavna je atrakcija konjska utrka Giostra./ It is a festival that thematically takes visitors to the ancient past of Poreč, with the the Giostra horse race as the main attraction. www.giostra.info Dubrovnik i okolica / Dubrovnik and surroundings 3.-17.9., Korčula KORKYRA BAROQUE FESTIVAL Jedan od razloga za vaš posjet jedinstvenoj Korčuli zacijelo je ovaj međunarodni festival na kojemu će se predstaviti vodeći ansambli i solisti specijalizirani za baroknu glazbu./ One of the reasons to visit unique Korčula must be this international festival, which will present leading ensembles and soloists specializing in Baroque music. www.korkyrabaroque.com
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Piπe/By Hrvoje Horvat Fotografije/Photos Rovinj Jazz Festival
Pjevačica i skladateljica Lizz Wright surađivala je s mnogim poznatim glazbenicima Singer and composer Lizz Wright has collaborated with many renowned musicians
Slavni američki saksofonist Joshua Redman sa svojim kvartetom otvara festival 15. srpnja
Bez obzira na to jeste li turist kojemu glazba nije na prvome mjestu zanimanja, ili posjedujete istančan glazbeni ukus, omjerom atraktivnosti i glazbene vrijednosti tri festivalska vikenda u Rovinju omogućuju posjetiocima vidjeti neka od najboljih imena suvremene jazz-scene.
Jane Monheit, cijenjena pjevačica mlađeg naraštaja Jane Monheit, a renowned younger generation singer
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Regardless of whether you are a tourist that nurtures his or her love for exquisite music or not, the number of attractions and quality of musical performances during the three festival weekends in Rovinj enables visitors to enjoy performances by some of the greatest names on the contemporary jazz scene.
Famous American saxophonist Joshua Redman and his quartet opened the festival on the 15th of June
O
vogodišnji šesti Rovinj Jazz Festival održava se tri vikenda u srpnju, a ponudom vrhunske glazbe poželjan je spoj kulture i turizma u jeku turističke sezone. Kao svojevrstan nasljednik zagrebačkih festivala Jazzarella i Zagreb Jazz Festival osnivača Dražena Kokanovića, i Rovinj Jazz Festival pod pokroviteljstvom hotelskog poduzeća Maistra navikao je publiku na velike poslastice i spektakularne nastupe, s četrdesetak glazbenika, koliko ih je gostovalo u Rovinju na pet dosadašnjih izdanja festivala. Otvaranje festivala 15. srpnja pripada slavnome američkom saksofonistu Joshuu Redmanu, jednome od najcjenjenijih jazzista srednjeg naraštaja. Tijekom karijere svirao je
Dobitnik Grammyja Nicholas Payton Grammy winner Nicholas Payton
s vodećim glazbenicima jazza i mnogih drugih žanrova, Daveom Brubeckom, Chickom Coreaom, Herbiejem Hancockom, B.B. Kingom, Steviejem Wonderom, Quincyjem Jonesom i Rolling Stonesima. Uz dugogodišnji stalni sastav na njegovim albumima sviraju i slavni jazzisti poput Pata Methenyja, Charlieja Hadena i drugih. Redman je nekoliko godina u SAD-u obavljao posao umjetničkog ravnatelja SFJAZZ Spring Seasona, te umjetničkog ravnatelja SFJAZZ Collectivea. Osim što je autor glazbe za brojne filmove, Redman je i jedan od sudionika filma Kansas City slavnog Roberta Altmana, poznatoga po glazbi koju izvode vodeći jazzisti. Pjevačica i skladateljica Lizz Wright na Rovinj
Jazz Festivalu nastupa u subotu 16. srpnja. Strastvenu pjevačicu veoma cijene kolege, te su je na suradnje pozivali mnogi poznati glazbenici poput Tootsa Thielemansa, Regine Carter, Davida Sanborna i Amosa Leeja. Njezin vokalni stil uspoređivali su s onime Norah Jones, a na snimanjima pet dosadašnjih albuma Lizz Wright sudjelovali su slavni glazbenici poput gitarista Billa Frisella, pjevača Gregoryja Portera i Angelique Kidjo i drugih. Lizz Wright izvodi vlastite pjesme, ali i tradicionale, te skladbe Sergeja Rahmanjinova, Chicka Coreje, Jimija Hendrixa, Erica Claptona i drugih. Drugi rovinjski vikend jazza 15. srpnja otvaraju Stefan Milenković i Marko Hatlak s devedesetminutnim glazbeno-scenskim programom Tango Compas i repertoarom skladbi A. Piazzolle, R. Galliana i G.M Rodriguesa. Svjetski priznati violinist Milenković, koji je slavu stekao još kao dijete, i Marko Hatlak, slovenski koncertni harmonikaš, združili su snage u sastavu Stefan Milenkovich & Marko Hatlak Tango Compas s pijanistom Markom Črnčecom, kontrabasistom Lukom Hermanom Gaiserom, a na pozornici im se pridružuje pjevačica Ana Bezjak. Tango Compas istražuje žanr tanga, a na turneji predstavljaju prvi CD koji uključuje pjesme iz najranijeg doba tango-repertoara autora kao što su Rodrigues, Canaro, Caceres i drugi, kao i suvremeno viđenje tanga preko unikatne interpretacije Piazzolline i Gallianove glazbe. Dobitnik Grammyja Nicholas Payton i Jane Monheit na Rovinj Jazz Festivalu nastupaju 16. srpnja. Payton je jedan od najboljih trubača današnjeg jazza, na kojega je trag ostavila i glazba Stevieja Wondera ili sastava poput Earth, Wind & Fire. Jedan od učitelja bio mu je i Wynton Marsalis, s kojim je svirao u početku karijere, a poslije je surađivao sa slavnim jazzistima poput Arta Blakeya, Clarka Terryja, Herbieja Hancocka i drugih. Svirao je i s glazbenicima drugih žanrova kao što su Ray Charles, Allen Toussaint i Dr. John. U svoju glazbu uključuje elemente raznih žanrova, ali i tradiciju jazza New Orleansa, pa ne čudi što je upravo Payton snimio album posvećen Louisu Armstrongu. Često uspoređivana s Ellom Fitzgerald i Dianom Krall, Jane Monheit jedna je od najcjenjenijih jazz-pjevačica mlađeg naraštaja. U dobi
Stefan Milenković i Marko Hatlak nastupaju s devedesetminutnim programom Tango Compas Stefan Milenković and Marko Hatlak give a 90-minute performance entitled Tango Compas CROATIA AIRLINES
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Amira Medunjanin osvojila je publiku u mnogim domaćim i inozemnim koncertnim dvoranama Amira Medunjanin has captivated audiences in many concert halls throughout Croatia and abroad
od sedamnaest godina pošla je u glazbenu školu na Manhattanu i počela nastupati na njujorškoj klupskoj sceni. Ostvarila je suradnje sa zvijezdama jazza i brazilske glazbe Johnom Pizzarellijem, Terenceom Blanchardom, Michaelom Bubleom i nastupala s mnogim simfonijskim orkestrima, a do sada je snimila glazbu za nekoliko filmova i objavila devet samostalnih albuma. Šesti Rovinj Jazz Festival u subotu, 20. srpnja, završava nastupom Amire Medunjanin, sjajne sarajevske pjevačice, koja je interpretacijama sevdaha i sevdalinki unatrag nekoliko godina opisivana kao bosanske Billie Holiday i osvojila publiku koja ju je vidjela i čula u mnogim domaćim i inozemnim koncertnim dvoranama. Primjerice, osim rasprodanih dvorana Zagrebačkog kazališta mladih i Vatroslava Lisinskoga, Amira Medunjanin već je imala prilike predstaviti se publici rovinjskog festivala dvaput, a frenetične reakcije publike i osobiti nastupi razlogom su što ondje nastupa i ove godine.
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his year’s sixth edition of the Rovinj Jazz Festival, with a repertoire of fantastic music, is taking place over three weekends in July, which is set to be a desirable combination of culture and tourism in the middle of the tourist season. As a successor of sorts of Jazzarella and the Zagreb Jazz Festival, established by Dražen Kokanović, the Rovinj Jazz Festival, sponsored by the Maistra Hotel Company, has got audiences 150
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accustomed to some serious treats and spectacular performances, featuring some forty musicians, which is how many musicians performed in the previous five editions of the festival. The opening of the festival, on July 15th, will feature a performance by famous American saxophonist Joshua Redman, one of the most highly-regarded jazz musicians of the middle generation. Throughout his career, he has performed with leading musicians of jazz as well as with musicians of many other styles, including Dave Brubeck, Chick Corea, Herbie Hancock, B.B. King, Stevie Wonder, Quincy Jones and the Rolling Stones. Apart from his long-standing band, his albums feature performances by famous jazz players such as Pat Metheny, Charlie Haden and others. For several years in the USA, Redman was the art director of the SFJAZZ Spring and the SFJAZZ Collective. Apart from composing numerous film scores, Redman also worked on Robert Altman’s film, Kansas City, best remembered for its musical score performed by famous jazz musicians. Singer and composer Lizz Wright will perform at the Rovinj Jazz Festival on Saturday, July 16th. This passionate singer is held in high regard by her peers, and has collaborated with many known musicians, like Toots Thielemans, Regina Carter, David Sanborn and Amos Lee. Her vocal style has been compared to that of Norah Jones, and five albums she has released thus far, include performances by famous musicians, such as guitarist Bill Frisell, vocalists Gregory Porter and Angelique Kidjo and many others. Lizz Wright performs her own songs, but also traditional ones, as well as compositions by Sergei Rachmaninoff, Chick Corea, Jimi Hendrix, Eric Clapton etc. The second weekend of jazz in Rovinj will be kicked off by Stefan Milenković and Marko Hatlak with their ninety-minute music-stage program, Tango Compas, and a repertoire of compositions by A. Piazzolla, R. Galliano and G.M. Rodrigues. Globally-renowned violinist Milenković, who gained fame as a child, and Slovenian concert accordion player Marko Hatlak have joined forces with the Stefan Milenkovich & Marko Hatlak Tango Compas Band, which consists of pianist Marko Črnčec and contrabassist Luka Herma Gaiser; they will also be joined on stage by singer Ana Bezjak. Tango Compas explores the genre of tango, and will present their first CD, which consists of songs from the earliest period of the tango repertoire, by authors such as Rodrigues, Canaro, Caceres and others, as well as a contemporary approach to tango
through the unique interpretation of Piazzolla’s and Galliano’s music. Grammy winners, Nicholas Payton, and Jane Monheit will perform at the Rovinj Jazz Festival on July 16th. Payton is one of the best trumpeters of contemporary jazz, who has been influenced by the likes of Stevie Wonder and bands such as Earth, Wind & Fire. One of his teachers was Wynton Marsalis, whom he played music with in his early career, while later on, he worked with such famous jazz players as Art Blakey, Clark Terry, Herbie Hancock and others. He has also performed with musicians of other music genres, such as Ray Charles, Allen Toussaint and Dr. John. His music career consists of elements of various genres, but also the tradition of New Orleans jazz, so it is not surprising that Payton has released an album dedicated to Louis Armstrong. Often compared to Ella Fitzgerald and Diana Krall, Jane Monheit is one of the most highly-renowned jazz singers of the younger generation. At seventeen, she enrolled in the Manhattan School of Music and started performing on the New York club scene. She has worked with stars of jazz and Brazilian musicians, such as John Pizzarelli, Terence Blanchard, and Michael Buble; she has performed with numerous symphony orchestras, recorded music for several films and released nine solo albums. On Saturday, July 20th, the sixth Rovinj Jazz Festival will end with a performance by Amira Medunjanin, a fantastic singer from Sarajevo, whose interpretations of sevdah music gained her the nickname of Bosnian Billie Holliday over the last several years, and who has won over audiences with her live performances at local and foreign venues. For instance, apart from selling out shows at the Zagreb Youth Theatre and the Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Amira Medunjanin has had the opportunity of performing for audiences of the Rovinj Festival twice already; frenetic reactions from the crowd and her fantastic performances are two reasons she is performing at the festival once again this year. ROVINJ JAZZ FESTIVAL 2016 MJESTO ODRŽAVANJE KONCERTA: BIVŠA TVORNICA DUHANA ROVINJ FORMER ROVINJ TABACCO FACTORY POČETAK/START: 21 h KARTE/TICKETS: WWW.EVENTIM.HR 1. EVENT 8.7.2016. JOSHUA REDMAN QUARTET 9.7.2016. LIZZ WRIGHT 2. EVENT 15.7.2016. STEFAN MILENKOVIĆ &MARKO HATLAK - TANGO COMPÁS 16.7.2016. NICHOLAS PAYTON TRIO feat. JANE MONHEIT 3. EVENT 22.7.2016. AMIRA MEDUNJANIN
THE WHOLE WORLD IS AT MY FINGERTIPS, THANKS TO CROATIA AIRLINES AND STAR ALLIANCE. THE WAY I LIKE TO TRAVEL.
Maksim Mrvica, World renowned pianist, Miles & More Senator and Star Alliance Gold Status
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tvorenje novoga putničkog terminala Međunarodne zračne luke Zagreb Franjo Tuđman, pridonijet će kontinuiranom rastu zračnog prometa u Hrvatskoj. Snažan i iskusan međunarodni konzorcij osigurao je ovom projektu sinergiju znanja i međunarodne prakse u zrakoplovnoj industriji. Sukladno poslovnom planovima Međunarodne zračne luke Zagreb, očekuje se da će razvoj i rast kapaciteta rezultirati daljnjim porastom prometa i kontinuiranim povećanjem broja putnika, a i povećanjem mreže dostupnih, izravnih, letova. Zračna luka posljednjih godina bilježi porast broja putnika, što je posljedica rasta u prvom redu Croatia Airlinesa, ali i dolaska novih zrakoplovnih prijevoznika. Otvorenjem novoga putničkog terminala u ožujku 2017. godine povećat će se kapacitet od 3,5 milijuna putnika godišnje, a u kasnijim fazama ovog projekta putnički će se terminal proširiti na kapacitet 5 - 8 milijuna putnika. Novi putnički terminal značajno će pridonijeti boljem pozicioniranju zračne luke i postati zaštitni znak grada Zagreba, a jačanjem mreže letova i sinergijom poslovnih aktivnosti kreirat će i nova radna mjesta te osigurati trajno naslijeđe za buduće generacije.
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he opening of the International Zagreb Airport Franjo Tuđman’s new passenger terminal will help continue the upward trend in Croatian passenger air traffic. Over the past years alone passenger traffic at the airport boosted, primarily as a result of Croatia Airlines growth and a number of new entrant airlines.
Strong and consistent consortium behind the project ensures the synergy of knowledge, international know-how and experience. Combined with the goal-oriented business approach at the International Zagreb Airport it is expected that development and growth of the airport’s handling capacity, as well as the increase in the air travel demand and network of available direct routes, will be achieved as planned. Upon opening of the airport’s New Passenger Terminal for public in March 2017 it will have
the capacity to handle 3.5 million passengers per year, while in subsequent phases of this project, the new passenger terminal will be expanded to reach an annual capacity of five-eight million annual passengers. Moreover, this new landmark will become essential to Zagreb’s image thus contributing, enforcing and positioning the airport’s role, continuously improving connectivity and synergies, creating new jobs and apprenticeships and securing a lasting legacy for the future generations.
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D. Fabijanić
SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 157 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED
160 NOVOSTI NEWS
162 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 165 FLOTA FLEET 167 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 169 ZRA»NE LUKE AIRPORTS 170 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 172 ADRESE S. Jungić
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THE WAY WE’RE ADDING MORE GOLD TO YOUR EXPERIENCE You can now enjoy Gold Track as part of your Star Alliance Gold Status, helping you speed through security in more destinations than any other alliance. staralliance.com
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Miles & More
Osnove programa Miles & More
Introducing Miles & More
Miles & More vodeÊi je program nagraivanja putnika u Eu ropi i nudi Ëlanovima razliËite moguÊnosti prikupljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih partnera u programu. Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija partnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kartica Miles & More.
Miles & More is the leading frequent flyer programme in Europe, offering its members numerous possibilites for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many attrac tive privileges. Members collect miles by using the services of many partners in the programme. Miles are credited for flights of all Star Alliance members and other airline partners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car partners or staying in participating hotels.
Razredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti Koriπtenjem usluga partnera u programu Miles & More prikupljate nagradne milje koje se mogu iskoristiti za nagrade. Statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status, na temelju kojega ostvarujete pogodnosti, prikupljaju se na redovitim letovima prijevoznika Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Lufthansa Regional, Luxair, SWISS, i svim Star Alliance partnerima. Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendar skoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller, a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini oËekuje vas
Tiers and benefits By using the Miles & More partners’ services members collect awards. Status miles which determine a member’s membership status and privileges can be accrued on scheduled flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Lufthansa Regional, Luxair, SWISS, and all Star Alliance partners. Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status and an award mile. With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year members acquire the Frequent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members CROATIA AIRLINES
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status Senator. »lanovi koji prikupe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u razdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalen darske godine, stjeËu status HON Circle.
who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, acquire the HON Cir cle status.
Pogodnosti statusa Frequent Traveller - Executive Bonus − 25 posto više nagradnih, statusnih i HON Circle milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - prednost na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog razreda - veÊi iznos prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji te razredu prijevoza. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa dva komada prtljage u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu.
Frequent Traveller privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 % for award, status and HON Circle miles - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Waiting list priority - Check-in at the Business Class counter - Increased free baggage allowance depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On flights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in total (Economy or Business).
Pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus − 25 posto više nagradnih i statusnih HON Circle milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - predujam od 50.000 nagradnih milja - uporaba Lufthansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold Lo unge partnera u Star Allianceu - viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog razreda - osigurano mjesto na letu za rezervacije do 48 sati u najvišoj klasi knjiženja u ekonomskome i poslovnom razredu - prednost pri ukrcaju i iskrcaju prtljage - dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa dva komada prtljage u ekonomskom, tri komada prtljage u poslovnom razredu - 2 e-vouchera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade), prilikom postizanja statusa Senator te prilikom svake obnove statusa. - Senator Premium Award - Companion Award
Senator privileges - Executive Bonus of 25% for award, status and HON Circle miles - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Miles advance of up to 50,000 award miles - Acc es s to the Luf thans a Sen ator Lou ng e as well as to the Star Gold Lou ng es of Star Allia nc e partners - High waiting list priority - First Class check-in - Booking guarantee up to 48 hours before departure in the highest booking class in Business and Economy class - priority baggage handling - An additional bag depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On flights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in Economy, 3 bags in Business - 2 e- Upgrade Vouchers on achieving Senator status and for every Senator status renewal. - Senator Premium Award - Companion award
Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle - sve pogodnosti statusa Senator, najviša prednost na listi Ëekanja - predujam od 100.000 nagradnih milja - Status Senator za supruænika ili partnera, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - 6 e-vouchera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade) prilikom postizanja statusa HON Circle te prilikom svake obnove statusa - dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa dva komada prtljage u ekonomskom, tri komada prtljage u poslovnom razredu
HON Circle privileges - All exis ting Sen ator priv il eg es highest waiting list priority
PRIKUPLJANJE MILJA NA LETOVIMA CROATIA AIRLINESA COLLECTING MILES ON CROATIA AIRLINES FLIGHTS
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- 100,000 miles in advance - Senator status for your spouse or par tner depending on the airline - 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers when becoming an HON Circle Member and every time the status is extended - An additional bag depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On flights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in Economy, 3 bags Business
Troπite milje
Spend miles
Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge nagra de: nagradne zrakoplovne karte, premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), razliËite nagrade kojima se moæete koristiti pri putovanju (Miles & More hotelski partneri, Miles & More rent-a-car partneri), kupnju te u Lufthansa WorldShopu.
You can exchange collected award miles for awards prepared for you: flight awards, upgrades, various travel awards (Miles & More hotel partners, Miles & More car rental partners), shopping and lifestyle awards, and Lufthansa WorldShop.
Zatraæite svoju Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditnu kar ticu!
Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card!
5 kuna = 1 nagradna milja − za svakih 5 kuna potro πenih preko ove kartice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja n
Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda − jednostavno pla Êajte svojom Diners Club karticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu. n
n 5 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile
Collect award miles ever y where − simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC offices in Croatia or abroad
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n 2 cre d it card s − 1 Miles & More memb ers hip account − use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account.
Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu!
Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card!
Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potroπnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paketu 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.
Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.
Zatražite svoju Croatia Airlines American Express karticu!
Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express card!
2 kartice − 1 raËun Miles & More − koristite li se isto dobno privatnom i poslovnom karticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More.
4 kn = 1 nagradna milja − za svakih 4 kune potrošenih preko ove kartice bilježi vam se 1 nagradna milja n
2000 milja dobrodošlice na Miles & More računu za nove korisnike, 1000 milja dobrodošlice za dodatnog člana n
Bez plaćanja upisnine i članarine za prvu godinu korištenja (do 30.09.2016) n
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Putno osiguranje
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Milje ne zastarijevaju
4 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 4 HRK spend via this card, you collect 1 mile
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2000 welcome miles on Miles & More account for new basic and 1000 welcome miles for new additional card users
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n Free enrolment and annual membership fee for first year (until 30.09.2016) n
Travel insurance
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Miles not expire
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Earn double award miles − using the card to pay at Croaita Airlines and PBZ Card Travel
Zatraæite svoju Croatia Airlines American Express kreditnu kar ticu!
Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express credit card!
4 kune = 1 nagradna milja − za svake 6 kune potroπene preko Premium kartice biljeæi se 1 nagradna milja, odno sno za svakih 7 kuna potroπenih preko Standard kartice
n 4 HRK = 1 award mi le − for every 6 HRK spent via Premium card, you collect 1 award mile, and for every 7 HRK spent via Standard card you collect 1 mile.
2000 milja dobrodoπlice − za nove osnovne Premi um korisnike i 1000 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Premium korisnike
n 2.000 welcome miles − for new ba sic Premium card users and 1.000 welcome miles for new additional Premi um card users.
1000 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard korisnike i 500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Stan dard korisnike
n 1.000 welcome miles − for new ba sic Standard card users and 500 welcome miles for new additional Stan dard card users.
Dvostruke nagradne milje − za plaćanje u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travela
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n Dvostruke nagradne milje − za potroπnju u poslovnica ma Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travel American Expressa (uz naknadu za pristup).
Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com
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Earn double award miles − using the card to pay for travels at Croatia Airlines sales of fices and PBZ Card Travel American Expressa. (visit charge applicable).
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Please find detailed info at: www.miles-and-more.com CROATIA AIRLINES
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St. Peterburg / St. Petersburg
Milano / Milan
Atena / Athens
UVELI SMO ČETIRI NOVE LINIJE Croatia Airlines, tijekom ljetnog reda letenja, izravno povezuje hrvatske s najljepšim europskim gradovima - Milanom, Lisabonom, Pragom i Sankt Peterburgom, kako bi vam ponudio još kvalitetniji izbor putovanja. Želite li posjetiti Milano, europsko modno središte, izravno iz Zagreba možete poletjeti utorkom, petkom i nedjeljom, od 20. svibnja do 28. listopada. Izravno iz Zagreba možete poletjeti i u Lisabon, ponedjeljkom, srijedom i petkom, također u razdoblju od 20. svibnja do 28. listopada. Stoga posjetite Lisabon, jedan od najljepših europskih gradova nazvan Kraljicom mora.
nect Croatia to some of the most beautiful European cities - Milan, Lisbon, Prague, and St. Petersburg. If you want to visit Milan, Europe’s fashion centre, from 20 May until 28 October, we offer direct flights from Zagreb on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays. During the same period, from 20 May until 28 October, you can also fly directly from Zagreb to Lisbon on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, and visit one of the most beautiful European cities, also called the Queen of the Sea. You can also travel to golden Prague directly from Zagreb, from 21 May until 29 October. Our aircraft fly to Prague on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. You can fly Croatia Airlines to visit St. Petersburg on Thursdays and Sundays, from 2 June until 23 October. You can visit this Russian emperor’s city and other European metropolises flying directly from Zagreb or from other Croatian cities via Zagreb. During this tourist season, in regular international traffic, we directly connect Croatia to 35
destinations in 20 European countries, and, in collaboration with our partners from Star Alliance, with the whole world. OTPUTUJTE U ATENU I BARCELONU Croatia Airlines nudi vam povoljne cijene aviokarata za letove iz hrvatskih gradova u Atenu i Barcelonu. Tijekom ljetnog reda letenja, šest dana u tjednu, izravno iz Zagreba i Dubrovnika možete poletjeti u drevnu Atenu, a iz drugih gradova preko zagrebačke zračne luke. Također iz Splita, svaku subotu, možete izravno poletjeti u Atenu (7.5. - 1.10.). Izravni su letovi iz Zagreba u Barcelonu triput na tjedan - utorkom, četvrtkom i nedjeljom. Izravni letovi za Atenu i Barcelonu, više puta na tjedan, zacijelo će vam približiti prirodne, kulturne i povijesne ljepote tih privlačnih mediteranskih zemalja. Više informacija o svim našim ponudama i povoljnije zrakoplovne karte možete pronaći na www.croatiaairlines.hr ili m.croatiaairlines. hr, dobiti u Kontakt centru (tel. 072 500 505 i 01 6676 555), te u svim poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa.
Prag / Prague
Možete otputovati i u zlatni Prag, izravno iz Zagreba, od 21. svibnja do 29. listopada. Naši zrakoplovi lete u Prag, utorkom, četvrtkom, subotom i nedjeljom. S Croatia Airlinesom možete otputovati i u Sankt Peterburg, četvrtkom i nedjeljom, u razdoblju od 2. lipnja do 23. listopada. Stoga izravno iz Zagreba, te iz drugih hrvatskih zračnih luka preko zagrebačke, poletite s nama u ovaj ruski carski grad i u druge europske metropole. Tijekom ovogodišnje sezone u redovitome međunarodnom prometu izravno ćemo povezivati Hrvatsku s 35 odredišta u 20 europskih država, a u suradnji s partnerima iz udruge Star Alliance i s cijelim svijetom. INTRODUCING FOUR NEW ROUTES In order to offer an even better travel package, Croatia Airlines has introduced new flights in its summer flight timetable to directly con160
CROATIA AIRLINES
Croatia Airlines leti na otok Brač utorkom i subotom / Croatia Airlines flies to the island of Brač on Tuesdays and Saturdays
Volim putovati!
Barcelona
VISIT ATHENS AND BARCELONA Croatia Airlines offers well-priced air tickets for flights from Croatia to Athens and Barcelona. The summer timetable offers direct flights to ancient Athens six times a week, from Zagreb and Dubrovnik, as well as from other Croatian cities via the Zagreb Airport. We also offer direct flights to Athens from Split on Saturdays (7.5. - 1.10.). There are also direct flights from Zagreb to Barcelona three times a week - on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. Our direct flights to Athens and Barcelona, several times a week, will certainly bring you one step closer to the natural, cultural and historical beauties of these attractive Mediterranean countries. C You can find more information about our summer flight package and well-priced air tickets at: www.croatiaairlines.com or at:M m.croatiaairlines.com, or via the Contact Centre (tel. +385 1Y 6676 555), or through any of our Croatia Airlines offices. CM MY
PUTUJTE U DOMAĆEM PROMETU U domaćem prometu naše smo letove nastojali prilgoditi vašojCY povećanoj potražnji tijekom ljetne turističke sezone. Novost jeCMY da Croatia Airlines dvaput na tjedan povezuje Zagreb s oto-K kom Bračem kako biste što brže i jednostavnije stigli na vaše odredište tijekom ljetnih mjeseci. Stoga iz Zagreba otputujte na otok Brač (utorkom u 12 h i subotom u 11,40 h), a s otoka Brača poletite u Zagreb i izbjegnite gužvu (utorkom u 14,05 h i subotom u 13.05 h). U ponudi su povoljni jednosmjerni letovi. DOMESTIC TRAFFIC In domestic traffic, we have adjusted our flight timetable to accommodate higher demand during the summer tourist season. We have introduced flights from Zagreb to the Island of Brač two times a week to provide travellers with easier and faster access to this destination during the summer months. You can fly from Zagreb to the Island of Brač as follows: on Tuesdays at 12:00 p.m., on Saturdays at 11:40 a.m.; and from the Island of Brač to Zagreb on Tuesdays at 14:05 p.m., and on Saturdays at 13:05 p.m.) to avoid the heavy road traffic. We also offer well-priced one-way flights.
Kada i gdje god želiš... Kupi aviokartu, prijavi se za let, spremi boarding pass i otputuj u željenu destinaciju! Nova aplikacija također omogućuje provjeru reda letenja, statusa leta, posebnih ponuda te pruža sve informacije koje su vam potrebne prije leta. Preuzmi Croatia Airlines aplikaciju i organiziraj svoje putovanje brzo i jednostavno, koristeći mobilni uređaj.
NOVO! Nove destinacije Croatia Airlinesa: Prag i Milano vec od 129 €, Lisabon i Sankt Peterburg vec od 199 €! Više info na www.croatiaairlines.hr NEW! Seasonal flights to Croatia from Prague and Milan starting from 129 € (RT ticket) or from Lisbon and St. Petersburg starting from 199 € (RT ticket)! More info at www.croatiaairlines.com
072 500 505, +385 1 6676 555
CROATIA AIRLINES
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RU»NA PRTLJAGA
Sluπalice za suzbijanje buke Digitalni audio/MP3 ureaj n ElektroniËke igre n e-ËitaË n Prijenosna/Notebook raËunala n Prijenosni DVD/CD ureaj n Bluetooth ureaji n Kamere n Medicinski ureaji n ElektriËni brijaÊi aparat n n
P. Strmečki
Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike ekonomskog razreda: 1 komad n maksimalna teæina 8 kg n zbroj dimenzija do 115 cm (55x40x20) Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike poslovnog razreda: 2 komada n maksimalna teæina 8 kg po komadu n zbroj dimenzija maksimalno 115 cm (55x40x20) ili 57x54x15cm (etui za odijela) Radi ograniËenog spremiπnog prostora u putniËkoj kabini te kada je veÊa popunjenost zrakoplova, i dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga bit Êe Ëekirana i spremljena u prtljaæni prostor.
PO©TOVANI PUTNICI! Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima. Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije. UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi. RED SJEDENJA
D. Fabijanić
Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo.
UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima. PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja. Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta. ELEKTRONIČKI URE�AJI U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI Upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja dopuπtena je iskljuËivo u zrakoplovnom radu, teæe i veÊe ureaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je upaljen znak obveznog vezivanja. Popis dopuπtenih elektroniËkih naprava: n Mobilni/Smart telefoni n Tablet raËunala
ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva. USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U naπim zrakoplovima posluæujemo hranu i napitke bez naplate. U poslovnom razredu na svim letovima usluga ukljuËuje birana hrvatska jela, alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te izbor domaÊega i stranog tiska. U ekonomskom razredu usluga ovisi o vrsti i duljini leta. Na domaÊim letovima posluæuje se samo voda, a na meunarodnim letovima usluga se sastoji od snacka i ponude piÊa. Na veoma kratkim letovima putnicima nudimo samo vodu, a na duljim letovima u ponudi su alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te topli napitci. IskljuËivo u poslovnom razredu moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed (vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed). Putnicima nije dopuπteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Alkoholiziranim putnicima ne posluæuju se alkoholna piÊa. Puπenje je zabranjeno tijekom boravka u zrakoplovu. Toaleti su opremljeni detektorima dima.
Faze leta u kojima je dopuštena upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja Faze leta Mobilni/ Smart telefoni, Tablet
Prijenosno raËunalo
Sluπalice za suzbijanje buke
Funkcija teksta/razgovora
Ukrcavanje
DA
DA
DA
DA
Kaπnjenje u polasku
DA
DA
DA
DA
Taksiranje za polijetanje
DA
NE
DA*
NE
Polijetanje DA
NE DA*
NE
Tijekom leta
DA
DA
NE
Spuπtanje
DA
NE DA*
NE
Slijetanje
DA
NE
DA*
NE
Taksiranje
DA
NE
DA*
DA
DA
*U navedenim fazama nije dopuπteno rabiti sluπalice prikljuËene na audio/MP3 ureaje
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CROATIA AIRLINES
DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our first and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests. With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services. Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inflight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr
predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole flight. Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the flight.
HAND BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE Economy Class passengers: 1 piece n max. weight 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) Business Class passengers: 2 pieces n max. weight per piece 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) or 57x54x15cm if it is a foldable garment bag Due to a limited storage space and when a flight is fully booked even approved carry-on baggage will be checked-in and stowed in cargo compartments.
S. Jungić
In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking flights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.
Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing.
n
RESTRICTED ITEMS The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage. Such items are: explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons, firearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers. IN-FLIGHT SERVICES
Please read the instructions below, important for your safety and comfort during the flight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your flight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.
SEAT ASSIGNMENT
e-Readers Laptop/Notebook computers n Portable DVD/CD player n Bluetooth devices n Personal cameras n Assistive medical devices n Electric shaver n
PERSONAL ELECTRONIC DEVICES Electronic devices may only be used if they are in flight mode. Bulky personal electronic devices must be securely stowed whenever the seat belt sign is turned on. List of approved personal electronic devices: n Mobile/Smart phones n Tablet computers n Noise-cancelling headphones n Digital audio/MP3 player n Electronic games
We serve food and beverages free of charge in our aircraft. In business class on all flights the services include a choice of Croatian foods, alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, as well as a choice of domestic and foreign print media. Our services in economy class depend on the type and length of the flight. On domestic flights we serve only water, and on international flights our services include snacks and an offer of beverages. On very short flights our passengers are offered only water, and on longer flights they are offered alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages as well as hot drinks. In business class only you can order a special meal when purchasing your tickets, however, this must be done at least 24 hours ahead (vegetarian, Muslim, diet, but kosher meals must be ordered 48 hours ahead). Passengers are not allowed to consume their own alcoholic beverages. Passengers that are considered under the influence of alcohol are not served alcoholic beverages. smoking is forbidden in the aircraft. The toilets are equipped with smoke detectors.
Use of electronic devices during different flight phases Flight phase
Hand Held PEDs (i.e. smart phones and tablets)
Larger PEDs (i.e. Laptops and notebooks)
Noise- cancelling Headphones
Text and phone functions
Boarding YES YES YES YES Extended Ground Delay YES YES YES YES Taxi-out for Take-off YES
NO YES*
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
Take-off YES
NO YES* NO
Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s
Descent YES
NO YES* NO
Landing YES
NO YES*
Taxi to Stand YES
NO YES* YES
Cruise YES YES YES
NO NO NO
*During critical phases of flight headphones must not be plugged to audio/MP3 players. CROATIA AIRLINES
163
Summer Sun and Sixt. (Book your holiday car in more than 105 countries around the World)
www.sixt.hr or +385 1 6651599 164 CROATIA AIRLINES
Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.
Specifikacije / Specifications
Airbus A320-200
Airbus A319-100
Dash8 - Q400
Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)
34,1 / 111
34,1 / 111
28,42 / 93,24
Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)
37,6 / 123
33,84 / 111
32,83 / 107,71
NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)
73 500
70 000
29 257
NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)
11 920 / 39 100
11 900 / 39 000
7620 / 25 000
Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)
122,40 / 1318
122,40 / 1318
63,08 / 679
NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)
834 (450 KTS)
834 (450 KTS)
667 (360 KTS)
Pogonska grupa / Power-plants
motori / engines x 2 CFM 56
motori / engines x 2 CFM 56
motori / engines x 2 PW 150A
Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet
2
4
6
Broj sjedala / Number of seats
174
144
76
Airbus 320-200
Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta. One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.
Airbus 319-100
Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta. One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.
Dash 8-Q400
Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta. One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking. CROATIA AIRLINES
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CROATIA AIRLINES
•
TRONDHEIM
BERGEN ST. PETERSBURG
Aberdeen
STAVANGER
Edinburg Belfast Dublin
Manchester
VILNIUS GDANSK
BERLIN Kassel DUSSELDORF
POZNAN
Chisinau LYON
Turin
PORTO
MILAN VENICE
OSIJEK
Genoa Bologna NICE
Madrid
RIJEKA
BELGRADE Bucharest
BRA» BARCELONA
Podgorica Bari Tirana
Palermo Catania
ATHENS
Beirut Damascus TEL AVIV Jerusalem Amman ■ linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines’ services
■ u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama
in cooperation with partner airline
Partneri / Partners: Air France
Alitalia
Austrian Airlines
Brussels Airlines
KLM
LOT Polish Airlines
Lufthansa
SAS
Singapore Airlines
Swiss International Air Lines
Turkish Airlines
United Airlines
TAP Portugal
TAP PORTUGAL
Air Canada
CROATIA AIRLINES
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t +385 20 773 100 f +385 20 773 322 e info@airport-dubrovnik.hr w www.airport-dubrovnik.hr
Fly to Dubrovnik
168
CROATIA AIRLINES
ZRA NE LUKE AIRPORTS
Volim putovati! I love to travel!
Dolazni terminali / Arrival terminals
Prikupljajte nagradne milje, iskoristite besplatnu uslugu hrane i pića na letu kao i pogodnost web check-ina. Earn miles, get free drinks and snacks on board and take advantage of web check-in at no additional cost.
072 500 505, +385 1 6676 555 croatiaairlines.hr
Moja aviokompanija.
ODREDIŠTE / DESTINATION AMSTERDAM (AMS) ATHENS (ATH) BARCELONA (BCN) BELGRADE (BEG) BRUSSELS (BRU) PARIS (CDG) COPENHAGEN (CPH) DUSSELDORF (DUS) ROME (FCO) FRANKFURT (FRA) LONDON GATWICK (LGW) LONDON HEATHROW (LHR) LYON (LYS) MUNICH (MUC) NICE (NCE) PRISHTINA (PRN) SARAJEVO (SJJ) SKOPJE (SKP) TEL AVIV (TLV) BERLIN (TXL) VENICE (VCE) VIENNA (VIE) ZURICH (ZRH)
ZRAČNA LUKA / AIRPORT Schiphol Amsterdam Airport Athens International Airport Barcelona El Prat Airport Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport Brussels Airport Zaventem Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport Copenhagen Airport Düsseldorf Airport Leonardo da Vinci - Fiumicino Airport Frankfurt Airport Gatwick Airport Heathrow Airport Lyon Saint-Exupery International Airport Munich Airport Nice Côte d'Azur International Airport Pristina International Airport Sarajevo International Airport Skopje Alexander the Great Airport Ben Gurion International Airport Berlin Tegel Airport Venice Marco Polo Airport Vienna Airport Zurich Airport
TERMINAL terminal 3 main terminal terminal 1 terminal 2 terminal B terminal 2D terminal 2 terminal A terminal 3 terminal 1 terminal S terminal 2 terminal 1 terminal 2 terminal 2 main terminal terminal B main terminal terminal 3 terminal A, C main terminal terminal 3 terminal 2
Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information
plesoprijevoz@plesoprijevoz.hr
www.plesoprijevoz.hr
ZAGREB
Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor, Držićeva bb) prema Zračnoj luci Zagreb Departures daily from the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, Držićeva bb) to the Zagreb International Airport: 5.00 - 5.30 - 6.00 - 6.30 - 7.00 - 7.30 - 8.00 - 8.30 - 9.00 - 10.00 - 10.30 - 11.00 - 11.30 - 12.00 - 12.30 - 13.00 13.30- 14.00 - 14.30 - 15.00 - 15.30 - 16.00 - 16.30 - 17.00 - 17.30 - 18.00 - 18.30 - 19.00 - 19.30 - 20.00 Polasci svakog dana iz Zračne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor, Držićeva bb) Departures daily from the Zagreb International Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, Držićeva bb): 7.00 - 8.00 - 8.30 - 9.00 - 9.30 - 10.30 - 11.30 -12.00 - 12.30 - 13.00 - 13.30 - 14.00 - 14.30 - 15.00 - 15.30 16.00 - 16.30 - 17.00 - 17.30 - 18.00 - 18.30 - 19.00 - 19.30 - 20.00 Za više informacija, molimo nazovite / For more information, please call: ZAGREB (01) 6331-982, 6331-999 SPLIT (021) 203-508 DUBROVNIK (020) 773-377 ZADAR (020) 250-094
RIJEKA (051) 330-207, 336-757 CROATIA AIRLINES
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Tomislav Petrina
Dragi putnici!
Volim putovati jer svaki me ovakav prizor iznova ostavi bez daha, a svoj život ne mogu zamisliti bez trenutaka koji mi oduzimaju dah. I like travelling because of the breathtaking views you come across; I can’t imagine my life without moments that take my breath away.
Zahvaljujemo vam na prekrasnim fotografijama koje nam šaljete s vaših putovanja. Bliži nam se ljeto i sigurni smo da će vas sunce, more i ljetne radosti nadahnuti u nastajanju novih zanimljivih fotografija. Nadamo se kako svoje ljetovanje planirate s Croatia Airlinesom te kako ćete nam i dalje slati nove, zanimljive i neobične fotografije s vaših putovanja. Uz jednu rečenicu u kojoj objašnjavate zašto volite putovati, pošaljite nam fotografiju i sudjelujte u našem nagradnom natječaju. Pobjednika ćemo nagraditi s dvije povratne aviokarte po izboru za neko od odredišta Croatia Airlinesa, dok će dva dobitnika primiti poklon-pakete. U ovom broju putnoga časopisa, dvjema povratnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa za najbolju fotografiju nagrađujemo Roberta Ljubanovića. Promidžbenim poklon-paketom nagradit ćemo Tomislava Petrinu i Blanku Zović. Pozivamo vas da nam nastavite slati svoje fotografije jer vas i u idućem broju očekuju vrijedne nagrade. Posjetite našu web stranicu www. croatiaairlines.hr (Ponude/Nagradne igre i natječaji), pogledajte uvjete nagradnog natječaja i sudjelujte!
Dear passengers!
Blanka Zović
Thank you for the wonderful photographs you have been sending us of your travels. Summer is just ahead of us and we hope that the sun, sea and the joys of summer will inspire you to take many new and interesting photographs. We hope that you are planning your next vacation with Croatia Airlines and that you will continue sending us interesting and unusual photographs of your travels. Send us your photographs accompanied by a sentence which explains why you like travelling and take part in the photo contest. We will award the first prize winner with two return tickets on Croatia Airlines to a destination of your choice, while the second and the third place winners will receive promotional packages. We have selected Robert Ljubanović as the author of the best photo in this issue; he is the winner of two Croatia Airlines air tickets. Tomislav Petrina and Blanka Zović have won promotional gift packages. We invite you to continue sending us your photographs, because in the next issue valuable prizes await you again. Visit our web page www. croatiaairlines.hr (Offers/Contests and competitions), see the conditions, and take part in the contest!
Volim putovati jer to je prilika za upoznavanje svijeta i svih njegovih ljepota, stjecanje novih iskustava i uživanje u životu, učenje o drugim kulturama, ali i o sebi.
Volim putovanja zbog svih onih jedinstvenih i neponovljivih trenutaka sreće! I like travelling because of the unique and once-in-alifetime moments of happiness!
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CROATIA AIRLINES
Robert Ljubanović
I like travelling because it gives you an opportunity to get to know the world and its beauties, acquire new experiences and enjoy life, learn about other cultures, but also about yourself.
CROATIA AIRLINES
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Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 6160 153
Paris
E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/uprava@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr
Pula
Kontakt centar / Contact Center 072-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske / only for calls from Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 17:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Odnosi s korisnicima / Customer Relations Dept. Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 http://www.croatiaairlines.com/hr/Zahtjev http://www.croatiaairlines.com/Claim Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 072 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske / only for calls from Croatia PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 616 02 46 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Bruxelles 1930 Zaventem/Brussels Airport Box 31 Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik ZraËna luka/Airport Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Frankfurt Airport Center 1 Gebäude 234, HBK 49 Hugo-Eckener-Ring 60549 Frankfurt Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London
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Concorde North Wing, Gatwick Airport Room 332, West Sussex RH6 0DW Tel. (+44-20) 8563-0022, Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615 London Heathrow Airport, Terminal 2A, Room A30ATE104, Level 30, Departures, Zone B, Lanside Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-4683 Fax (+44-20) 8754-7377 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr
CROATIA AIRLINES
95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Roissypôle Le Dôme, Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-40-00 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-55-11 parto@croatiaairlines.hr ZraËna luka/Airport Pula Valtursko polje 210, 52 100 Ližnjan Tel. (+385-52) 218-909, 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr
Rijeka
51 000 Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5 Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Rome 00054 Fiumicino Aeroporto/Airport Leonardo da Vinci Torre Uffici 2, room 518 Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo 71 000 Sarajevo ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skopje 1000 Skopje ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 3296-967, 3296-969 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split 21 000 Split ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar 23 000 Zadar ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb 10 000 Zagreb Trg Nikole Š, Zrinskog 17 Tel. (+385-1) 481--96-33 Fax (+385-1) 481-96-32 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Meunarodna zraËna luka Zagreb/ Zagreb International Airport Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 62-65-930 Zürich Letzigraben 154, 8047 Zürich Tel. (+41-44) 2610-840 Fax (+41-44) 2610-883 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe »eπka / the Czech Republic CK Blue Sky Travel Opletalova 57, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. +420 222 222 235 Fax +420 222 220 237 czech@croatiaairlines.hr GrËka / Greece Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str., 105 57 Athens Tel. +30 210 32 17 679, 32 17 750 Fax +30 210 32 49 152 greece@croatiaairlines.hr Kosovo Airtour Prishtina International Airport Tel. +381 38 594 111 Fax +381 38 594 222 kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr
Portugal APG - Portugal Rua Tenente Espanca, nº3 − 3º A, 1050 - 220 Lisboa Tel. +351 219 100 054 Fax +351 219 100 059 portugal@croatiaairlines.hr info@apg-portugal.com Rusija/Russia GRM (Global Russia Marketing) Bolshaya Sadovaya street 10, office 20, 123001 Moscow, Russia Tel. +7 495 981 14 00 Fax +351 219 100 059 ou.mow@grm-russia.com SlovaËka / Slovakia CK Blue Sky Travel Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel./fax +421 2 5262 2375 slovakia@croatiaairlines.hr Srbija / Serbia INTERTRAVEL GSA Topličin Venac 19-21 11000 Beograd Tel. +381 11 310 89 69 Fax +381 11 310 89 68 ou@intertravel.rs Španjolska / Spain Global Representacion Turistica / GRT Rambla de Catalunya, 61 5º 3ª, 08007 Barcelona Tel. +34 934 875 775 spain@croatiaairlines.hr Bliski istok / Middle East Izrael / Israel Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda Street, Migdalor blgd. 12th floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. +972 3 516 7181, 516 7140 Fax +972 3 516 7174 israel@croatiaairlines.hr Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. +61 3 9699-9355, Fax +61 3 9699-9388 lidia@skyair.biz Novi Zeland / New Zealand CTtravel Limited NZ PO Box 104-056, Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Rd. Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. +64 9 837 9897 Fax +64 9 837 9898 croatiaairlines@cttravel.co.nz Japan Air System Inc. Shimbashi Frontier Building, 7F 3-4-5 Shimbashi Minato-ku Tokyo, 105-0004 Japan Tel. +81 3 3593 6740 Fax +81 3 3593 6534 asipaxtyo@airsystem.jp Koreja / Korea Bohram Air Services 7F, Donghwa Bldg, 58-7 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: +82 2 754 6336 Fax +82 2 779 8795 croatiaairlines@bohramair.co.kr Tajvan, Kina, Hong Kong / Taiwan, China, Hong Kong Pacific Express Company Limited 8F, No 137, Nanking E. Road Sec. 2, Taipei, Taiwan, R.O.C. Tel: +886 2 2515 2371 Fax +886 2 2515 3463 peclpax@ms57.hinet.net