MR February 2015

ketplace.com february 2015

25 years of menswear: buying, selling and schmoozing!

© 2015 www.weatherproofvintage.com Showroom 212.695.7716

FEBRUARY 2015 | VOL. 26 NO. 2

Departments 8 12 14

Editorʼs Letter Publisherʼs Letter Guest Editorial

16

Guest Editorial

Fred Rosenfeld Greg Shugar

124 MRQ Gordon Richardson, Topman

Features 20 28 54 74 84

86 92

2 MR | www.MRketplace.com

Karen and Stu: The Inside Story 25 Characters 25 On the Rise 25 Trend Essentials 25 Years of Retail Growth̶ And Consolidation Fashion The Schmoozing Years

Neckwear

THE MAGAZINE OF MENSWEAR RETAILING A BUSINESS JOURNALS PUBLICATION

PUBLISHING Stuart Nifoussi Publisher Emeritus (212) 710-7407 Stunifoo@MRketplace.com

Lizette Chin Publisher (212) 710-7414 LizetteC@MRketplace.com

EDITORIAL Karen Alberg Grossman Editor-in-Chief (212) 710-7422 KarenA@MRketplace.com

Elise Diamantini Managing and Market Editor (212) 710-7429 EliseD@MRketplace.com

William Buckley Fashion Director (212) 710-7424 WilliamB@MRketplace.com

Harry Sheff Web Editor (212) 710-7436 HarryS@MRketplace.com

Jillian LaRochelle

AS WE CELEBRATE OUR 25TH YEAR SERVING THE APPAREL BUSINESS

Copy Editor (212) 710-7442 JillianL@MRketplace.com

William Kissel Editor at Large (805) 693-5838

ART/DESIGN Hans J. Gschliesser Creative Director

Cynthia Lucero

WE SALUTE YOU FOR YOUR 25 YEARS OF SHARING, CARING AND HELPING OUR INDUSTRY PROSPER

Art Director

Jean-Nicole Venditti Designer

ADVERTISING Michelle Brown Associate Publisher (212) 710-7413 MichelleB@MRketplace.com

Chelsea Richardson Account Executive (212) 710-7440 ChelseaR@MRketplace.com

Samuel Johnson Director of Operations (212) 710-7421 SamuelJ@MRketplace.com

Donna Doyle Advertising Coordinator (212) 710-7417 DonnaD@MRketplace.com

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4 MR | www.MRketplace.com

www.robertgraham.us

ROBERT GRAHAM CONGRATULATES MR ON ITS 25TH ANNIVERSARY. Here’s to another 25 years of supporting the industry we love.

ADOLFO

THE MAGAZINE OF MENSWEAR RETAILING A BUSINESS JOURNALS PUBLICATION

BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC. Mac Brighton Chairman & COO

Britton Jones President & CEO

Christine Sullivan Chief Financial Officer

Lizette Chin Vice President, Menswear

PRODUCTION Peggy Eadie Director of Production (203) 663-7838

Business Office: 50 Day Street Norwalk, CT 06854 (203) 853-6015 Fax: (203) 852-8175

ADVISORY BOARD Mario Bisio President/Owner, Marioʼs

Wayne Drummond SVP, Hudsonʼs Bay Company

Doug Ewert Chief Executive Officer, Menʼs Wearhouse

Dan Farrington GMM, Mitchells Retail Group

David Fisher Senior VP/GMM, Bloomingdaleʼs

Ken Giddon Owner, Rothmans

Jonathan Greller President, Outlets, Hudsonʼs Bay Company

Tom Ott SVP/GMM, Saks Fifth Avenue

David Witman Executive VP/GMM, Nordstrom

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MR ISSN 1049-6726 is published six times a year (January, February, April/May, July, August and November) by Business Journals, Inc. 50 Day Street, Norwalk, CT 06854. Periodical Postage paid at Norwalk, CT and at additional mailing office.

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NAUTICA CONGRATULATES

MR MAGAZINE ON ITS 25TH ANNIVERSARY

editorial

A QUARTER CENTURY! I

n putting together this special issue of MR, Iʼm feeling both joy and sadness: joy for the many wonderful friendships made and reinforced over 25 years, sadness for how quickly the years have passed. I remember so clearly the excitement of launching a new magazine back in 1990! Stu and I were young and confident and perhaps a bit cocky, bolstered by the success of Accessories magazine (where we both worked for several years) and the trust imparted in us by the owners of Business Journals. Still, I was nervous. I didnʼt know the menswear market and was terrified to compete with DNR, then a highly successful daily newspaper. Could we really bring something different, and meaningful, to the table?

For the launch issue, I decided we needed to do an industry roundtable: a discussion among de-

“We gain most of our insights from you, our wise and intrepid warriors in the trenches.” partment store executives about key issues the menswear industry was then confronting. I didnʼt know any of these top execs and I had no idea what the issues were, but I pulled out the Salesmanʼs Guide, found the right names and called the menswear GMMs in all the top stores. They had no idea who I was; there was not yet an MR magazine to send them. I suggested they ask their counterparts in accessories to vouch for us and eventually, they agreed to show up.

So at the Algonquin Hotel during market week, we set up a table with chairs for six retailers, knowing that although nine had responded, there would

be several no-shows. To our amazement, everyone showed (we had to keep adding chairs). I kicked off the discussion by asking about the increasingly promotional nature of department store business, how we could ever get back to regular-price selling with customers so acclimated to sales. Apparently, it was the wrong question and the group was highly defensive. “Our business is no more promotional this year than last,” said the first GMM, and the next few agreed. My heart was sinking, thinking the roundtable was a fiasco and weʼd never have a premier issue. Finally, Gary Kellman from Lord & Taylor (thank you Gary, wherever you are) saved the day by admitting that his business was no more promotional than the previous year because it was already totally promotional, which is why department stores had lost credibility. The ice was broken, the rest of the group loosened up; we had a great discussion and a compelling premier issue!

For the quarter century that followed, MR has continued exploring challenges and opportunities in the menswear business, gaining most of our insights from you, our wise and intrepid warriors in the trenches. I canʼt thank you enough for 25 years of sharing your experiences, of helping us figure it out.

Thank you too for 25 years of friendship: itʼs the real reason I love my job! And with Lizette at the helm of a terrific team, and Stu promising to stay nearby to guide us, I look forward to the next 25 years (which will take me to the same age my dad was when he retired from menswear).

See you in Vegas!

Editor-in-Chief

8 MR | www.MRketplace.com

PHOTO BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY

Oh to be young and unafraid and not know what you donʼt know...

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Saks Fifth Avenue congratulates MR Magazine on its 25th Anniversary.

P V H C O R P. C O N G R A T U L A T E S

MR MAGAZINE ON 25 YEARS

OF DEDICATION TO THE

MENSWEAR BUSINESS.

publisherʼs letter

B

ack in 1989, Karen Alberg Grossman and I had this crazy idea that we could start a trade magazine and compete with DNR, the iconic daily menʼs newspaper. DNR was really huge, and many people we talked to about our idea were supportive, but certainly not optimistic, about our chances of survival. Nevertheless, with the backing of the owners of BJI, we conceived a more personal medium that tackled the issues of everyday merchants on Main Street, and hoped it could find a small place in the hearts, minds and pockets of the menʼs business.

The first issue of MR came out in March of 1990, and I have to admit that, despite the many bumps along the road, our vision has been warmly received, and our jobs incredibly rewarding. MR has been my home, filled with the enduring friendships and comfortable routines that make life meaningful and enjoyable. During that time, we set the magazine on a path that has helped it to thrive as others have fallen by the wayside, and to build incredibly strong personal and professional relationships with many of our readers and advertisers.

The history of MR has been shaped by an industry of great merchants, unique super sales executives, a vibrant specialty store business and, most recently, huge evolutional change. I love change, but I also recognize that itʼs time for me to get out of the way and admit that a change in vision is good for MR as well.

It has already been announced that Lizette Chin, who I have known for many years and hired back in 2005, will take over the publisherʼs role on MR, as part of her new responsibilities as VP, Menswear for the company. She is incredibly competent and well regarded across the business. This opportunity will give her a chance to bring her vision of MR to life, working with Karen and her team to bring it to the next level of success. Itʼs exactly whatʼs needed at this critical time to ensure that the magazine and MRketplace.com continue to evolve and grow.

During our tenure together at MR, Karen and I started other successful businesses for BJI and they have grown too. Now, my plate is overflowing, and I need to focus on those ventures and other ideas that need nurturing to grow. I am not going anywhere, and will still be around roaming trade shows and lending the benefit of my experience to those who think itʼs worth something. But I will no longer have the day-to-day responsibilities that preclude me from growing other properties within BJI that we think have potential.

As we reflect on the past 25 years, and how much fun it has been, itʼs my intention to stay close to you and menswear for much of the next 25.

So please donʼt say goodbye, and definitely stop asking me about my retirement. Iʼm not there yet, and look forward to my status as a publisher emeritus of MR (which may or may not mean the guy who used to be here), and to enjoying whatever comes next.

TURNING THE PAGE

Stu Nifoussi

12 MR | www.MRketplace.com

Congratulations, and thank you, to MR Magazine, Karen and Stu.

You are beacons of insight and inspiration, illuminating pathways to success through the increasingly complex menswear environment.

Keep up the good work.

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guest editorial

I

openly admit that I am prejudiced. Iʼm a garmento and proud to be a garmento. My ego tells me that I am also a merchant, the highest compliment for a garmento. I am naïve enough to believe that apparel companies should be run by garmentos, and more specifically, by merchants. So I always wonder why larger public apparel companies think that non-merchants should run them. The common refrain is that apparel people are too close to the apparel business and are not open to new ideas.

Duh...these are apparel businesses.

At Gap, the legendary merchant Mickey Drexler was replaced by Glenn Murphy, who had a tremendous reputation running a Canadian drug store chain. He did an amazing job managing Gap, except the business had its ups

BRING BACK THE

MERCHANTS! Why are operations executives from nonapparel companies running apparel stores?

By Fred Rosenfeld

and downs, and is dramatically inconsistent.

Currently Old Navy is great and Gap stores are awful. But the systems are great. Murphy is being replaced with Art Peck, another highly regarded operations guy. In my opinion, Gap does not need another expert in management; they simply need to fix the product in their stores. They need a merchant.

JCPenney was led by the legendary merchant Alan Questrom. Then when he retired, Mike Ullman, a highly regarded operations guy, proceeded to lead the company on a slow path to nowhere. Ullman “resigned” to be replaced with Ron Johnson. While Johnson was absolutely a merchant, he was an egomaniac who was simply in the wrong place, at the wrong time, with the wrong ideas. So Johnson was replaced by Ullman again, who stopped the slide by going directly back to the product and strategy which forced his departure in the first place. Now Ullman is being replaced with Marvin Ellison, who did a great job running 14 MR | www.MRketplace.com

the stores for Home Depot. Home Depot? In my opinion, JCPenney doesnʼt need another management guy to tell them how to run the stores: they need a merchant to give them a strategy to survive.

In the glory days, not long ago, the Aʼs of Abercrombie, American Eagle and Aéropostale were run by the old school merchant trio of Michael Jeffries, Roger Markfield and Julian Geiger. Geiger retired and was replaced with Tom Johnson, a capable operations guy but not a merchant. While all three companies are having problems, Aéropostaleʼs very existence is questionable. They brought back Geiger, the merchant.

The epitome of them all is Liz Claiborne.

Once one of the most powerful and largest apparel companies in history, they named Bill McComb from Johnson & Johnson the CEO. With a sterling background of selling Band-Aids, he told the industry they didnʼt understand the consumer, the retailers and the market. He proceeded to sell, close or decimate all of these iconic brands. After changing the name of the parent to Fifth and Pacific, he resigned, proudly announcing that his mission had been accomplished. He simply destroyed a great company.

Oddly, when I discussed this opinion with one of my hedge fund clients, he replied, “We love operations people,” explaining that oper-

“Gap does not need another expert in management; they simply need to fix the product in their stores.” ations people, particularly from non-apparel companies, can quickly see problems and quickly fix them, delivering quick results.

When I questioned the longevity of such actions he admitted, “We donʼt care about the long term. If they can deliver short-term results weʼre happy; weʼre not concerned at all about the long-term health of the companies.”

As for me, bring on the merchants. Better still, bring on the garmentos!

Fred Rosenfeld is an industry consultant. He can be reached at frosenfeld@comcast.net

guest editorial

L

ast Halloween, I hosted a costume party at my home for 120 of my closest friends. We all had a blast. But in the middle of my party, a friend came over and started telling me about his new start-up. Was it a good business idea? I donʼt know; I wasnʼt listening. So why do I sound like such a jerk? Because I was at a party, thatʼs why. Let me drink, crack a few jokes and be obnoxious without you bothering me about your new business. Which brings me to the point of this editorial.

When social media marketing became a “thing” a few years back, companies got excited. I know because I was one of them. It was a new way of reaching out to the customer. No longer would I fear that reaching my customers would be costly and time-consuming. I was now able to reach my audience daily̶daily!̶for free. Marketing had never been easier or less expensive.

SOCIAL MEDIA

BURNOUT ‒

LEAVE ME ALONE

Greg Shugar, co-founder of The Tie Bar, argues that consumers are tuning out social media marketing because too many brands and retailers try to use it as a sales tool.

Fast forward to 2015. Because itʼs (mostly) free, social media marketing is now everywhere. Itʼs in your Facebook feed. Itʼs on the side of your Facebook feed. Itʼs in your Twitter feed. Itʼs promoted in your Twitter feed. There are promoted photos in your Instagram feed. Sheesh, Iʼm exhausted just listing them all. Now imagine how the customers feel.

Here we are, five years into social media marketing, and the results are still inconclusive. With advertisers so heavily invested in social media marketing now, they continue to try to break the code on maximizing their ROI for their social media efforts. To date, these efforts still arenʼt working.

16 MR | www.MRketplace.com

Why? Letʼs go back to my Halloween party. I was hanging out with my friends. A little buzzed.

Having fun. And then someone came over to me and wanted to talk business. He didnʼt give me a hard sell. It wasnʼt even a lengthy conversation.

But still, I wasnʼt in the mood to be sold to. I was talking to friends. And thatʼs how I feel when I am on Facebook, Instagram and to a lesser extent, Twitter. Most brands market on social media, which means we are not only bothered when we want to be left alone, but we are bothered multiple times a day.

Thatʼs why Iʼm afraid that unless some industry-wide change is made, we are about to face a social media burnout. Social media, at its best, is a brand enhancer. Itʼs a new two-way communication tool between brand and customer. Two-way meaning the customer can initiate dialogue with the company (traditional customer service/engagement) or the company can initiate dialogue with the customer. But thatʼs all it is. Social media is not a new sales channel, and itʼs time for companies to stop treating it like one.

I may not be a millennial, but I sense a change in the air. The constant noise of advertising and social media marketing is causing people to tune out the messages. Some do it consciously (unfollowing a brand) and some do it subconsciously (scrolling past the message). Social media marketing is becoming like print advertising in newspapers̶we all just look right past it.

No, I am not calling for the death of social media marketing. It will be around for the near future, for sure. But I do think we are nearing an era of customer apathy and itʼs time for some kind of a reinvention by the industry.

Greg Shugar is the founder of The Tie Bar and Thread Experiment, a home bedding brand for

DOING IT RIGHT

Feedback and engagement should be one of your top uses for social media. Donʼt force it; instead, peel back the curtain of your company, reveal what youʼre doing now and ask the customers if they have any input. Ask them if your store or brand isnʼt carrying or designing something it should.

Brand enhancement. Remember that whether youʼre a store or a vendor, you are a brand.

That means you have an identity to your customers, whether or not you realize it. So use social media to help bring home that message.

Donʼt post every day. No matter how loyal and happy your customers are, they donʼt need to hear from you every day. So time it wisely and go for quality over quantity.

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Fabric Innovation How can retailers drive denim traffic for fall 2015? In one word: innovation. And thereʼs a lot of it happening with denim fabrics for fall. Whether itʼs four-way stretch, coating techniques, surface interest or man-made fibers, developments in fabric technology are whatʼs providing newness to the market. Companies like 34 Heritage are embracing innovation by creating new styles like “dressed-up denim” made from a poly/tencel/cotton blend. These five-pocket pants offer the same comfort of jeans with the look of a dress pant.

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Store Spotlight: Andrisen Morton

We chatted with Andrisen Mortonʼs Lindsay Morton Gaiser (pictured left) about denim in Denver.

Whatʼs currently selling?

Five-pockets as a classification have been outperforming our casual trouser business for the last three seasons and weʼve seen double-digit increases this past fall! Weʼre selling everything from denim to colored brushed cotton to cords. Our customers are embracing trimmer silhouettes, which is now about 90 percent of our buy.

What are you looking for from the denim market for fall 2015?

Weʼre searching for newness. Weʼve had such success with denim and five-pockets, itʼs time for us to add something more into our vendor matrix that no one else has. This December, we doubled our five-pocket business so we need to continue to seek out different levels of price.

What does the market need to make denim business better?

The denim industry needs to help retailers by creating more margin. I would also like to see denim brands offer specialty stores different product that they donʼt sell to department stores and on their own websites!

Newness in Knits

In a world where comfort is key and athletic wear is becoming fashionable outside the gym, denim is finally finding its niche in the athleisure market. Denim brands are now knitting jeans rather than weaving them in order to offer a softer, stretchy, more comfortable feel. At a recent denim seminar, Rebecca Duval, vice president and equity analyst for the retail sector at BlueFin Research Partners, said, “Retailers are trying to drive traffic, but the bigger stores are scared to take risks because of margins. Privately owned stores can take more risk, and those who are will find success. And everyone is bringing their own version of athleisure: yoga, soft pants and joggers.” Make sure to get in on this trend by featuring a selection of knit styles for fall.

18 MR | www.MRketplace.com

Knit joggers by 34 Heritage

the interview

KAREN & STU THE INSIDE STORY

Theyʼve been working together for 25 years on MR, and five years before that on Accessories magazine. Here, they try to pinpoint what makes it work.

Karen: Should we start by acknowledging that weʼre not married to each other, nor are we owners of MR magazine? Iʼm not sure we even liked each other all that much when we first started out working on Accessories.

Stu: Yes, but we still had a lot in common. Your oldest friend is my neighbor and I used to hang out in your husband Terryʼs neighborhood when we were kids. Besides that, itʼs almost karmic that we both had fathers in the menswear business.

Karen: Yes, it is. My dad spent the first 35 years of his career at Macyʼs (he started there in 1937 marking pricetags before he served in WWII; he ended up senior VP of menʼs and boys), so I spent almost every summer from high school through college either working on the selling floor or doing clerical work in the buying office. I canʼt say I loved it (I remember endless days in June and July trying to sell fur-lined leather gloves), but I somehow inherited my dadʼs ability to connect with people, which is simply a function of being truly interested in them. I wish Iʼd inherited his style: as you know, fashion is not my area of expertise.

Stu: Nor is it mine! Iʼm a “tweener,” caught between looking my age and dressing how old I think I am. I stay in reasonably good shape, so Iʼve enjoyed the move to slim-fit up to the point where it interferes with comfort. My worst purchases have come on business trips with you, Karen.

You always think I look great in things that I never like once I get home.

Karen: I keep trying to update your image. And I do remember a white 20 MR | www.MRketplace.com

linen sportcoat that I encouraged you to buy but never saw you wear.

But letʼs get back to fathers: talk a little about yours.

Stu: My dad was a menʼs retailer and I think I disappointed him by not going into his business. He was a great salesman and spoke seven languages. He sold jeans to sailors on the merchant ships on the New York waterfront.

Karen: How did you end up in publishing?

Stu: My first job set the course. I sold the Salesmanʼs Guide directories to manufacturers in the garment district while still in college in NYC. I used the name Sy Stuart because the owners thought the name Stu Nifoussi was tough to spell and didnʼt sound Jewish enough. Iʼve spent most of my career in magazines, learning several businesses along the way including hair care, gourmet food, housewares, drug stores and womenʼs accessories. But once I got into menswear, I knew I was home again.

Karen: Any mentors?

Stu: Before I came to BJI, I was blessed with a few really bad bosses who taught me so much about how not to treat salespeople and other employees. What I learned from them has helped me to manage others. I learned that the best employees are self-motivated and appreciate the ability to make decisions and take responsibility for them. I have tried to manage in that way, and have appreciated the fact that Iʼve been allowed to run MR like my own business.

I was part of a really strong sales team in the late-1970s where I learned that there are a lot of pathways to success, all of which include

the interview

Stu and Karen circa 1999

hard work, honesty, hearing what people are telling you and paying attention to the details. My manager at that job gave me possibly the most valuable advice of my sales career. He said, “I donʼt like surprises. Tell me whatʼs happening, especially if itʼs bad, and we can deal with it.”

What about you Karen? In addition to your dad, who were your mentors?

Karen: Like you, I learned a lot from a bad boss: the buyer I worked for on the executive training program at Bloomingdaleʼs. She was an angry, bitter, sarcastic person who showed me everything I didnʼt want to be as a manager.

Lewis Kaplan, publisher of Clothes Magazine/Retail Week and my first boss in publishing, was an amazing mentor. He was brilliant and crazy and courageous and believed in total separation of sales and editorial. He taught me to take strong stands on key issues and always write the truth, regardless of who might be insulted. When I once wrote a feature strongly suggesting that retailers shift that seasonʼs open-tobuy from dresses to sportswear, listing all the reasons why, he was totally proud of me, despite the fact that Leslie Fay (a major dress manufacturer at the time) was our back cover advertiser. Needless to say, Leslie Fay dropped their advertising.

Karen and Stu circa 1990

“Iʼm not sure we even liked each other all that much when we first started out.” ̶Karen Alberg Grossman

As for industry mentors: I learn from all of our readers, but I must single out Mortimer Levitt, Cliff Grodd, Mike Gould and the Mitchell family.

Stu: Havenʼt you learned anything from me?

Karen: Of course I have! Iʼve learned that every mistake/problem/ screw-up brings an opportunity to strengthen the relationship. And youʼve taught me to really listen, something Iʼm not so great at. (Were you to replay my interviews on tape, youʼd notice that at least 40 minutes of every hour is me talking.) Youʼve also taught me a way of selling that I didnʼt know existed: you somehow manage to help vendors with their problems so that they actually want to support the magazine. Itʼs a real give and take, which I donʼt think is the norm.

Stu: Itʼs what I love best about my job, and also the challenge. Early on, the hardest part for me was being tough enough. I wanted everyone to like me. Eventually, I realized that my job was to get the most for my company, and the person I was selling had the same job for his. In that 22 MR | www.MRketplace.com

context, I learned to be strong and fight for what I thought was right, but without disparaging the other guy or losing respect for him. Larry Hymes will tell you that many years ago, when he was running The Exclusive show, he switched advertising to DNR because he thought it was fair to “share the wealth” even though we at MR had helped them get started. He reminds me frequently that, when he couldnʼt understand why I was upset, I yelled at him: “Larry, youʼre taking food out of the mouths of my children!” That might have been a little over the top.

But enough about my strengths as a salesman; what do you consider your strengths as an editor?

Karen: I have far more weaknesses than strengths: I donʼt do technology, Iʼm not a great detail person, Iʼm certainly not a product person.

In fact, the first time I met her, DNR writer Clara Hancox (a wonderful mentor and friend) yelled at me for walking into a clothing showroom and interviewing the president of the company without even looking at the product. Iʼm still more interested in merchandising and marketing than I am in fashion.

I think my main talent is an ability to get people to open up and tell me more than they intended to. For example, years ago when I interviewed Audrey Talbott of Robert Talbott at their headquarters in Carmel, we sat for hours in her beautiful outdoor garden, chatting about business and about life. When the interview appeared in the

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the interview

Stu and Karen circa 2008

magazine, I heard (through the grapevine) that she was terribly upset that Iʼd written about her personal life. We were sitting in that garden with the tape recorder in front of us: sheʼd never asked for anything to be off the record. But since then, Iʼm much more sensitive to peopleʼs privacy, often leaving out the best parts of the interview just to be safe.

Fortunately, Mrs. T got such great feedback from the article that she ultimately forgave me and we became great friends. And itʼs these kinds of friendships that are my greatest joy.

What about for you Stu: what events standout in your mind?

Stu: Thereʼve been so many great MR moments. But the funny thing is that each one brings its own anxieties. For instance, when we had our largest issue ever, back in 2000 with more than 300 pages, I couldnʼt stop worrying about how I would top that the following year!

Editorially, weʼve done so many things that were great fun. Our underwear model contest was my favorite. We asked readers to pose in their underwear, send us photos, and we picked the winners. When we notified the retailer who won, the female store owner said “Oh, thatʼs not one of our employees, heʼs our UPS man!” That generated lots of comments about late-night deliveries and why she had a half-naked photo of the UPS guy in the first place... (We decided to select a different winner.)

“The hardest part for me was being tough enough: I wanted everyone to like me.” ̶Stu Nifoussi

Starting the Uptown/Downtown awards was a terrific move for us.

It strengthened the relationships we had with so many great retailers and those endure to this day.

But enough about what we did right; letʼs talk about our mistakes.

Karen: You mean like misspelling Marshall Field, our 2003 Retailer of the Year, on the cover of the magazine?

As for interviews, my biggest fiasco might have been my Ed Koch interview for Accessories back when Koch was mayor of New York City.

On the train into the city, I had read an article in The New York Times on how much money affluent parents were spending on their kidsʼ birthday parties. So my first question to Koch was: “What kind of city is this where parents spend thousands of dollars on kidsʼ birthday parties while there are long lines at the soup kitchens?” And he replied, “You donʼt like it? Move to Russia.” It was downhill from there. When the interview was over, I asked him to sign a program from my son Michaelʼs grade school play in which he played the role of Mayor Koch.

Koch beamed from ear to ear and wrote the most endearing paragraph to Michael that I have saved to this day. Lesson learned: start interviews with positive stuff and save tough questions till the end.

Stu: Whatʼs the best advice you ever got from someone in the industry?

Karen: It was from Gene Silverberg at Bigsby & Kruthers, a now defunct but once wonderful menswear store in Chicago. His advice was to hire happy people: if theyʼre not happy in their personal life, nothing you can do for them at work will make them happy.

24 MR | www.MRketplace.com

Stu: An obvious question: what do you love most about our industry?

Karen: It sounds so trite to say “the people,” but for me (and I know for you too), thatʼs really what itʼs all about. At my dadʼs funeral a few years back, and then tragically at the memorial service for my daughter a year ago, when I looked up and saw the faces of so many industry friends, it truly touched my heart. (As I told the owners of Business Journals at this yearʼs holiday party, “Iʼve loved this job so much, I would have done it for free.” “Now you tell us,” was Mac Brightonʼs reply.)

Stu: Any regrets?

Karen: That Iʼve not yet gotten to know everyone in the business, that there are still showrooms Iʼve missed and wonderful stores across the country Iʼve not yet visited and really smart (and nice) merchants Iʼve yet to have a drink with. But Iʼm not retiring yet, so my number one priority is to spend more time with more of them.

A question for you Stu: what are your hopes and fears about the future of the menʼs business?

Stu: My hope is that young entrepreneurs will find a way to bring more excitement into the business. Weʼre certainly seeing new brick-andmortar stores in places like Brooklyn and L.A. where young retailers, with different business models, are opening shops as proving grounds or real world laboratories for their online concepts.

I often say that the era of the great salesperson is ending, resulting in a future that will be much more data driven. In that world, success will be measured by people who move money rather than merchandise. I fear that the business will be less fun without people like the colorful characters we have profiled in this issue (see page 28).

Karen: Any final thoughts?

Stu: It took me several frustrating years to become a mediocre golfer.

However, what Iʼve learned from that experience is that, just like everything else in life, it goes better when you relax and take it slow. So thatʼs my current mantra: Itʼs increasingly clear that things will be okay, even if I miss the early train or sell one less ad.

CONGRATULATIONS! Stu, Karen & the entire team at MR Magazine

Cheers to the next 25 years!

f andrisen morton garys hubert white kilgore trout larrimor’s malouf’s mario’s mitchells | richards | marshs oak hall rodes rubensteins stanley korshak wilkes bashford

ARDIE ULUKAYA BILL LAVIN BRUCE JULIAN CECILE REVAH CRAIG ANDRISEN DAVID FISHER ELIOT RABIN ERIN HAWKER HARRY ROSEN JACK AND BILL MITCHELL LARRY HYMES MARTY STAFF MICHAEL DURU NICK GRAHAM PAUL ROSENGARD PAUL WATTENBERG RAFFI SHAYA RALPH LAUREN ROBERT COMSTOCK RONNY WURTZBURGER SAUL KORMAN THE BEHAR BOYS TOM BEEBE VAN WEINBERG VIVEK NAGRANI

Ralph Lauren Designer

Why we picked him: There is only one master of menswear, a perfectionist whoʼs remained true to his vision from day one.

Success secret: Never settle. Obsess about details.

His business philosophy: Be the best you can be. Says Marty Staff, “When I worked at Ralph Lauren, Ralph would come in every day worrying about the competition. He was always trying to be the best he could be. I learned so much from him, and the key takeaway was that as good as he was, he always wanted to be better.” Adds Ron Wurtzburger, “When I first got the license, black suits were popular and I wanted Ralph to make black suits. He refused, telling me: ʻNever lose your identity or what you stand for.ʼ It was the best advice I ever got.”

Memorable moment: Ralph was honored at a Neckwear Association Luncheon in 1997: He stood there at the podium and singled out (by name and company) every salesman and buyer who ever helped (or didnʼt help) him along his journey. He remembered every favor, and every slight. The audience loved it. And him!

Newest venture: The Polo Bar restaurant. With recent rave reviews, itʼs already attracting the social and media elite.

CHARACTERS Meet the industry executives who inspire us, entertain us and make us better. By Karen Alberg Grossman

Ronny Wurtzburger Peerless

Why we picked him: Heʼs the industryʼs best salesman whoʼs built the largest clothing company in the world. Heʼs got a huge heart and has raised great amounts of money for numerous charities while helping countless individuals in the industry. He wants no recognition for any of this.

Why he thinks we picked him: You could only find 24 interesting people.

Success secrets: Iʼm a Type A personality and I love what I do. I do it 24/7 or not at all.

Iʼm also a dreamer, always looking for the next opportunity. I can sense whatʼs missing.

How to keep it fun: Iʼm still a child; I think Iʼm Peter Pan. Most proud of: Our 22 great brands, from Ralph and Calvin to Karan and Kors. Our Peerless team. My wife, our four children, their spouses and our 10 fantastic grandchildren. (I used to think theyʼd all be professional athletes, then they got a little older and I thought maybe coaches. Now Iʼm thinking marry rich girls and buy a team.)

Goals: Professionally, I have none at the moment: Iʼm closer than ever to hanging it up and letting some young people run with the ball, giving me more time with my wife and family. My wife would say the odds are 100 to 1 against this, but I think Iʼm close. I missed so much when my kids were little, but I can be there for my grandchildren.

Who knew? I once had a full head of hair. As competitive as I am, Iʼm the worst golfer.

Although Iʼm on stage all day, Iʼm actually a quiet guy.

Crystal ball: Continued consolidation at retail and wholesale. When I started out, there were 100 clothing manufacturers and 50 great department stores. Today, you lose a store and youʼre almost out of business. On the positive side, however, even with fewer players there is better fashion and men are starting to shop more like women. So weʼll survive, but the landscape will be different, driven largely by technology. Maybe weʼll be touching fabrics via computer. www.MRketplace.com | MR 29

Ardie Ulukaya Mavi/34 Heritage

Why we picked him: Probably the hardest-working guy in the business, gregarious, always on the road and in the stores, creative, animated and well loved.

Why he thinks we picked him: My passion! Iʼm a product person, I love product, and Iʼve always loved the menswear business.

Success secrets: You have to have confidence in yourself and your product, which in turn builds confidence and trust with your business partners, your retailers and your consumers.

How to keep it fun: When you love what you do and surround yourself with trustworthy people who have the same positive outlook, itʼs naturally fun. Iʼve never seen this as a job: I love just being in this environment.

Most proud of: Being a father to my two beautiful daughters Sofia and Sienna̶they are by far my biggest accomplishment.

Outside interests: Photography, movies, and Iʼm a huge foodie!

Goals: Health, wealth and seeing my childrenʼs accomplishments while helping to prepare them for the future. Making both Mavi and 34 Heritage the top denim brands in their categories.

Crystal ball: Menswear today is in a much better place than itʼs been for the past 25 years, and I see the trend continuing.

Marty Staff The Siskind Group

Why we picked him: A true brand builder and one of the smartest, craziest, most fun people in our industry.

Philosophy of business: When your work is your passion, it isnʼt work...itʼs your life and your fun. My work defines me; itʼs what I want and need to do. So I get confused about what is work and what is play because to me it is all the same. This is a good thing for me. I worked at Calvin Klein for 10 years. On weekends Calvin and I would go to eyewear stores like others go to museums or football games. We would spend afternoons studying eyewear. For me it was exhilarating to do this.

Our business is like a great white shark: If youʼre not moving forward you will sink. So Iʼve never permitted myself to think I know, or have done, it all. I try to prove myself every day. Once you think you know it all, you will probably fail.

Most proud of: My time at Hugo Boss. When I was appointed CEO, the company was small and unprofitable. It was not liked by retailers. The clothes frankly didnʼt fit the U.S. customer. In five years, we grew five times! And the profits grew 20 times!

We opened an NYC flagship. We started a womenʼs business. We did this by introducing fun, buzz and intense strategic retail relationships to the brand.

Making it fun: If we were really smart, weʼd probably be doing something else.

Men donʼt define themselves by what they wear: essentially, weʼre selling toothpaste, so we might as well make the game fun! I love being with my customers and competitors, and I believe they like being with me. I hope Iʼve helped make the process of designing, making, selling and marketing menswear fun and non-traditional, and in doing so have evidently become interesting.

Crystal ball: I think weʼre entering a magical time in menswear. More than any time in decades, product is king. In order for any brand to succeed, it needs great product, a soul and a story. Also, the era of a brand working identically everywhere in America is over. Menswear has become like indie bands: every region has its own thing. In the future, I believe there will be fewer stores which are more productive. The entertainment quotient will go up exponentially. Looking through racks to find stuff is boring now, and will become more boring. Menʼs accessories will grow as men spread their fashion wings.

Goals: I intend to stay involved in menswear for as long as I breathe, and as long as Iʼm having fun. I have however begun to devote time to ArtsQuest, which is a Bethlehem, Penn. arts center that rose from the ashes of Bethlehem Steel. As an example, I introduced ZZ Top to the audience at their concert last year.

30 MR | www.MRketplace.com

Erin Hawker Agentry PR

Why we picked her: Sheʼs smart, dynamic and makes things happen!

Why she thinks we picked her: Because Iʼm a character (or so Iʼve heard).

Most proud of: I moved to NYC from Chicago not knowing anyone and answered job postings in WWD. Iʼm not a shortcut person, so I took my time, working A-to-Z to learn every facet of marketing and public relations. My big break came as global public relations director for DKNY. I firmly cemented editorial relationships but also learned the ropes of a mega corporation. From there I helped launch Nokiaʼs luxury mobile phone brand, and eventually held positions at NYC-based agency LaForce + Stevens (a great training ground) and then went on to become head of communications for Diesel North America.

I launched my own agency (Agentry PR) five years ago; we work with about 22 menʼs, womenʼs and accessory fashion brands and have offices in NYC and LA. Recent Accomplishments: We started New York Menʼs Day as a resource to support emerging menswear talent. There are a lot of amazing designers who need help, so itʼs become a passion project for us personally and professionally. A few of our existing clients really needed support with putting on a fashion week show or presentation. We thought, why not use all the resources we have to help? With support from amazing brands like Cadillac, Oribe, Johnston & Murphy, Hint water and Peroni, each young designer can focus on designing, styling and image, letting us focus on what we do best as a PR agency. Weʼve grown NYMD from two to 12 designers, and expect a larger showcase in the future.

Who knew? Iʼm a bit of an adventurist. I read National Geographic cover-to-end; I went to the Atacama Desert in Chile last year to chase the meaning of the universe at ALMA; and I just got certified in scuba diving in Colombia this past December.

Crystal ball: Super lightweight and durable smart fabrics that are solar-powered with heating and cooling technology. They will hook to your iPhone and adjust your temperature.

Bill Lavin

Bill Lavin Designs Why we picked him: He is totally passionate about his work, extremely creative, the ultimate optimist and a master at self-promotion.

Success secret: At trade shows a few years back, I began serving great wine in stemware glasses, dark chocolate and playing my own digital music. Every afternoon at 4 p.m., buyers began to gather at my booth to celebrate life and the camaraderie of friends. People would make new friends, and would start to enjoy our business again. People still talk about those gatherings.

Most proud of: Taking on an almost non-existent classification (belts), and for over 30 years now, consistently pushing the design envelope (e.g. screen printing musical tributes on jeans belts). When you get those moments of influence, you know youʼre doing your job well.

Personal: My real passions are my wife of 41 years, my two amazing kids and two new grandkids. I love art, music, hanging out with family and friends with a nice glass of vino. To relax, I run at the gym about six to eight miles and explore the quietness inside me. I love to dive into a great movie. Waking up on the West Coast doesnʼt hurt either.

Goals: To join a mentor program to help young kids with lifeʼs challenges. Or to become a design and sales consultant. (Or just break out the vino and music and enjoy.)

Crystal ball: Our industry desperately needs to drop the low hanging fruit. The internet will play a huge role for many years to come, and virtual reality shopping will continue to challenge brick and mortar. Success in design and retail will always flourish as long as the most talented young people get that entrepreneurial opportunity to showcase their talents.

32 MR | www.MRketplace.com

ITALYS

Special Advertorial Section

MR Magazine takes a look at the brands of Made In Italy at the MRket Las Vegas show scheduled for Monday, February 16 to Wednesday, February 18, 2015 at the Venetian/Palazzo Hotel.

XACUS SRL BOOTH 1320

The XACUS collection FallWinter 2015/2016 presents a new range of fabrics including flannel, linen and melange; great importance for the embroidery - characterized by various geometries and flowers -; focus on exclusive prints and the Wrinkle Free line.

GRAN SASSO BOOTH 1322

From three generations Gran Sasso designs and produces in Italy high quality knitwear using fine natural yarns crafted by local experts. Gran Sasso is considered a real interpreter of the Italian Style and Taste.

DOLCEPUNTA BOOTH 1212 100% hand-made. 100% made in Italy. 100% sartorial ties.

LUCIANO MORESCO BOOTH 1214

Luciano Moresco’s love affair with whimsical shirts is well known and the aficionado won’t be disappointed.

ITALWEAR/ANDREA BOSSI BOOTH 1223

A sportswear collection made of the highest quality fabrics; with particular attention to the details, design and style reflecting the best of the Italian heritage.

LORENZONI BOOTH 1216

Updated and elegant styles for the ones who want to be on track with the latest fashion mood.

GIMO’S BOOTH 1211

Leather and fabric jackets that defy the ordinary with their simple elegance and exclusivity.

FEBRUARY 2015 MRKETLV

MASSIMILIANO STANCO BOOTH 1219

Exclusive products of exceptional quality and refinement crafted by high-skilled artisans.

IMPULSO BOOTH 1216

From the exclusive nautical world. Every style is accurately developed with a lot a details. Nevertheless the line is smooth, sportive but not aggressive.

FEDON BOOTH 1221

Fedon Venezia collection blends the sea with art and embraces the modern with the romance of Made in Italy.

BULGARINI BOOTH 1215

Bulgarini Camicie is an Italian brand that has produced shirts for over twenty years. Bulgarini rep-

ITALO FERRETTI BOOTH 1318

Made in Italy masterpieces of timeless style..

resents high quality, made from the best Italian cloth.

CALIBAN BOOTH 1314

CALIBAN presents the Man collection: shirting made with fine yarns, soft finishes , contemporary volumes and geometries telling of an elegance timeless.

G. MANZONI/ ALPETORA BOOTH 1224

Alpetora 2015 Fall/Winter collection is exquisitely tailored with the finest cloths from Biela, Italy.

The colors and tones are warm and rich. With an extensive in-stock catalog of luxurious sportcoats, suits and trousers.

DI BELLO

BY NIPAL BOOTH 1227

The ultimate leather and shearling source for custom-made suedes, leathers and goose downs for men and women.

MONTECHIARO BOOTH 1216

Basic and fancy sweaters in a wide range of colors and patterns.

Tom Beebe Visual Artist

Why we picked him: Heʼs incredibly creative, works incessantly, has recently launched the Algonquin Roundtable as a meeting place for artistic minds. As he puts it, “I am focused on menswear and will do everything in my power to push it forward.”

His journey: From Bergdorf Goodman to Neiman Marcus to Paul Stuart to Tiffany to Henri Bendel to Fairchild/Conde Nast to HMX to W Diamond to...

Success secret: Iʼm one of eight kids from strong family bonds, and parents who raised us to keep on shooting arrows in the air. Also, I was lucky to be mentored by Gene Moore of Tiffany fame. He pushed me to not just look at things but to really see; he taught me that your work is a reflection of everything you are.

Goals: For my next window or styling to be the best ever. Iʼm working on an excellent project with Gene Mooreʼs archives: taking his 39 years of Tiffany windows and bringing them to the next level for design students.

Who knew? I was once a clown with my dad and three brothers in Ringling Brothers Barnum & Bailey Circus.

Crystal ball: Menswear of the future is going to be driven by fabric innovation, a crossover from simply performance wear to everyday clothing. Since the world is getting smaller, fabric will be globally versatile. A consolidated menswear cycle from presentation to purchase: no one waits months and months anymore, and time waits for no one.

Eliot Rabin Peter Elliot

Why we picked him: Heʼs more than a little crazy, often talks in rhymes (that he makes up as he goes along), is a brilliant merchant who never stops aspiring to greatness.

Self-description: I have a spontaneous, intrepid and enigmatic character, an unerring interest in the world and the people in it. I love our country and my foresight enables me to contribute to its betterment. My clients and friends enjoy our interchanges of social and political ideas. We are not just a shop.

Keeping it fun: Spend a day with me and youʼll understand the quirky and unpredictable nature of my personality. I often piss off my sales help by jumping into their sale, especially when they donʼt want or need me to. But I thrive on spontaneity and my customers seem to enjoy it.

Most proud of: Graduating from The Citadel and serving my country as an infantry officer in the U.S. Army. The fact that Iʼve survived and flourished in NYC (the toughest market in the world) as a small, multi-store business in menʼs, womenʼs and kids. That Iʼve made it a Peter Elliot policy to produce as much product as possible in our country. (Ainʼt nothing made in China; our merchandise is finer.) And my son, Joshua Blue Rabin, who was born when I was 60.

Crystal ball: The demise of department stores in their current format; the rise of independent specialty stores; the return of made in the USA!

Larry Hymes MRket

Why we picked him: His social life and dating history would make a fabulous novel or screenplay. (He describes himself as “a serial dater, the Wilt Chamberlain of the dating world.”) If you think youʼve got problems, sit down with Larry: youʼll laugh a lot and youʼll feel much better!

Why he thinks we picked him: Because of my personality and the way I relate to people. I can talk to anyone and make them feel comfortable and relaxed.

How he keeps it fun: Iʼm always looking for new niches; I love getting to know interesting and unusual people.

Most proud of: Founding The Exclusive trade show in 1998, bringing it to Vegas in 2002 (and selling it to Business Journals in 2007, which was the beginning of MRket). On a personal note, Iʼm most proud of my amazing daughter.

Goals: To climb Mt. Everest and auto race in the Le Mans Grand Prix. www.MRketplace.com | MR 37

Jack and Bill Mitchell Mitchells Family of Stores

Why we picked them: From their parentsʼ 800-square-foot shop in Westport, Conn. with an inventory of three suits (and a never-empty coffee pot), theyʼve evolved into the biggest and best independent specialty store (now five of them) in the U.S. Two brothers with totally different talents and temperaments (and each with gifted sons) have somehow managed to create a highly functioning family business that gives back much to the community.

Why they think we picked them: Bill: Anyone whoʼs ever met me would most likely call me a “character.” But seriously, I would hope that MR thought of us because of the culture that Mom and Dad passed on to Jack and me, and that weʼve hopefully passed down to the next generations. Iʼd describe it as an overall commitment to excellence, not just in the retail experience but, more importantly, in leading a life of character and kindness.

Success secrets: Jack: Our business is simply a reflection of our family values. We focus first on our customers. We have a team of positive passionate people. Weʼve built personal and professional vendor relationships with top executives home and abroad who supply us with beautiful clothes! Bill: Throw in a little serendipity, a little luck, a little humor, some hard work, some joy. Very important: we hire people who are both smart and nice.

How to keep it fun: Jack: I keep our culture fun by interacting daily with each and every associate; I find something about each of them that makes me smile and my day is fulfilled. Bill: I keep it fun by never taking myself too seriously and hopefully I pass that on to all of our staff. At the same time, I take my job seriously, which our associates recognize as well. Being a sports fan, Iʼm lucky to get tickets to events and I tend to invite or give away tickets to our staff, play golf with them, take them on trips. In other words, working at Mitchells isnʼt always a grind.

Most proud of: Jack: The successful passing of the business from Mom and Dad to Bill and me and then on to our sons. Personally, Iʼm proud of 50-plus years of a wonderful marriage to my wife Linda, and working for the last 25 years with our four sons and three nephews. Bill: The work Iʼve done to help people in recovery. Many people know that Iʼm a recovering alcoholic of over 24 years, and while I donʼt take out page two of The New York Times, I try to help others in recovery whenever I can.

Stress relief: Jack: I play a lot of tennis, a little golf, I write articles and books. I love global travel and walking with family on the beach in Block Island. Bill: To tell you the truth, Iʼm writing this on the island of St. John doing nothing but relaxing at the moment! But I often think that going to work, being with our staff and customers who become my friends, is the best recipe for relaxation.

Interests and passions, outside of work: Jack: My “Hugs” business̶both as an author, as reflected in Hug Your Customers and Hug Your People̶and doing over 200 motivational speeches throughout the world. Also itʼs a great joy watching grandchildrenʼs games and events and traveling with them on family trips. I fuel my interest and passion for education by guest lecturing and advising students as an executive in residence at Columbia University Business School and other universities. Bill: Of course my family: my wife Sue, my three boys, daughtersin-law and five grandchildren. In addition, I like to play golf, travel, go to sporting events, be with my friends.

Goals: Jack: To stay healthy and happy and maintain the highest level of family harmony. Bill: My biggest goal coming up on 72 years of age is to wake up every morning̶haha! As for business, my nephews and sons are running the business and doing a great job. However they think I can be helpful, thatʼs my role. Personally, Iʼm on a few boards including a university, a hospital and some other charities. I like giving back and trying to make a difference.

Van Weinberg James Davis

Why we chose him: Even in his newly healthy phase, heʼs one of our favorite partiers, always upbeat and fun, the one youʼd choose to meet after work during markets.

Why he thinks we chose him: For my outgoing personality: friendly, honest, real. I like people, and thatʼs what makes it fun.

Success secret: I learned early on, from people I respect including my dad, that retail is always changing. You need to keep a pulse on consumer lifestyles and change accordingly.

Most proud of: My 46 years in the business and my 46 years of marriage. Iʼm also proud of how weʼve evolved the store with a younger, more casual mix of sportswear and a stronger emphasis on custom clothing. Weʼve changed the mix, the presentation and the marketing. Iʼm very proud of the great relationships Iʼve established over 46 years in the business.

Stress relief: Working out, playing golf and being with my buddies.

Goals: To continue to evolve the business, to spend more time with my four grandsons and to continue my newly healthy lifestyle.

Crystal ball: Retail will continue to change.

38 MR | www.MRketplace.com

A collaboration and fellowship of the country's most discerning specialty stores defining excellence in retail.

BEECROFT & BULL Virginia Beach, Richmond, and Charlottesville BUTCH BLUM Seattle, WA M. PENNER Houston, TX PITKIN COUNTY DRY GOODS Aspen, CO POCKETS MENSWEAR Dallas, TX SAM MALOUF AUTHENTIC LUXURY Burlingame, CA SHAIA’S Birmingham, AL TAYLOR RICHARDS & CONGER Charlotte, NC WEEKENDS Boulder, CO

Craig Andrisen Andrisen Morton Why we picked him: Heʼs always the life of the party, fun and funny (and he has very cool friends!).

Why he thinks we picked him: Because I am Dr. Loud...you can hear me before you can see me! Compassion for menʼs fashion has always given me a charge. When I was 14 years old, I worked in a small town menʼs store and even then I polished my shoes.

Claim to fame: I played golf with former President George Bush (43) last year at Preston Trail in Dallas.

Success secrets: Many loyal customers (many of whom are friends) throughout 37 years of business have contributed to our success and brand. We have a dynamic team and I have had a fantastic partner for over 37 years. Our partnership has lasted longer than both of our first marriages. Our sales team is very experienced and knows service comes first. What we sell, customers might want but donʼt really need. Nothing happens until you sell something.

How to keep it fun: By sharing great stories and memorable jokes! Did you hear the one about.... I try not to take myself too seriously.

Most proud of: Staying in business for a remarkable 37 years while surviving 2008 and 2009. I pride myself on knowing how my customers like to look and putting together outfits for them. My friends call and ask me what they should wear on TV. I help people feel great about shopping here and about how they feel in our clothes.

Iʼm of course proud of my two beautiful and talented children and the phenomenal lady (Mrs. Dr. Loud) I married in August 2008. Iʼm grateful for the longtime relationships with my friends whom I consider my family and who have supported me through the ups and downs of my personal life and my career.

Stress relief: When business is great, I enjoy traveling with my wife and golfing with my friends. When it is not great, I sit in my favorite chair and watch sports on television with my iPhone in hand. Connecting with friends is important to me.

Goals: To maintain my good health, enjoy a glass of pinot, and lower my handicap.

Professionally: To maintain our edge by finding the most unique and finest inventory, and to dominate the market with our new renovation.

Who knew? I grew up in De Smet, South Dakota (population 1,700) with my parents, sister and two brothers. I am actually older than Mario Bisio (two months) and shorter than Bobby Mitchell (nine inches).

Crystal ball: Wearing clothes in public will still be mandatory. In 2020, all dress codes at major software companies will require suits and ties.

Bruce Julian Bruce Julian Clothier

Why we picked him: Heʼs quirky, clever, funny and fun (as evidenced by his huge collection of antique toys displayed throughout the store, and also his very clever Facebook postings).

Success secret: Sometimes itʼs pure stupidity (and I have plenty of that!). I was in a crappy location and disgruntled employees at the pizza store next door set it on fire. Totally shut me down mid December. Did I take the insurance money and walk away like a smart businessman would have done? Hell no, never entered my mind. All I could think about was reopening. This is what I do. Nothingʼs getting in my way, not even intelligence.

How he keeps it fun: Clearly I take this fun thing way too far. I have so much fun I donʼt know what to do with myself. I have a Bloody Mary Bar in the store. Itʼs been said the staff and the customers are slightly drunk most of the time. Iʼve amassed a vast collection of antique toys over the years and I truly enjoy displaying them in the store; I love the atmosphere they create.

Goals: This is usually not the type of question I care for, but 2015 has got the goods; it is all totally opening up for me and my wife. This time last year we were sucking wind. I was at the end of a long run in a crappy location complaining about everything every 10 seconds or so. Bonnie had just left a 30-year run in the fabric printing business and was a ship lost at sea. She found her bearings and decided to take my Bloody Mary business to market. I had created a recipe for a fabulous Bloody Mary I came up with almost 20 years ago that I was bottling for the store. We are now in 85 bars, restaurants and gourmet shops from Connecticut to Florida; weʼre soon going into Canada. And Iʼve moved to a fabulous new location and itʼs going to be great! I got TVs in the dressing rooms and my audiophile stereo with pure analog sound for playing records. The store is so exciting!

40 MR | www.MRketplace.com

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Raffi Shaya Raffi

Why we picked him: We love his passion, optimism, creativity and joie de vivre.

Why he thinks we picked him: Iʼve been able to grow and evolve in a changing market. I appreciate every day what I do: itʼs what keeps me around and alive.

Success secrets: I am always optimistic and believe in happiness. Life is full of challenges but I always look forward with a positive mental attitude. I have a great team, all of whom I consider family. We take pride in offering excellent customer service and supporting our retailers. We design and create with the consumer in mind̶bringing in new colors, yarns, designs on a regular basis.

How he keeps it fun: With lots of laughs and lots of chocolate.

Most proud of: Being on this list is a great accomplishment! But really, working with my wife for the past 40 years; it doesnʼt get better than that! Iʼm most proud that Iʼve created a business that my three daughters want to be a part of and take to the next level.

Stress relief: I enjoy travel, golf and playing with my grandchildren.

Who knew? I love to dance and party; Iʼm one of nine siblings!

Goals: To continue to inspire the market by bringing in new ideas, to watch our brand evolve into the next generation, to get a hole in one!

Crystal ball: The U.S. market will continue to grow in influence and fashion direction. American designers will continue to lead the menʼs market.

Robert Comstock Designer

Why we chose him: For his design talent, inspiration from Third-world cultures, love of the outdoors and commitment to conservation.

Success secret: My inability to follow trends. This has never been a cognitive decision; my mind naturally wanders̶I never could stay within the proverbial box.

My commitment to conservation has given me a sense of purpose within fashion.

Iʼm fond of saying that the quandary of whether to go with a single or double vent or what the length of a hemline should be pales in comparison to a starving child or an about-to-become extinct species.

How to keep it fun: Thatʼs the easy part. Our industry is a fraternity encompassing buyers, salespeople, designers, manufacturers, photographers, mills, editors, publishers, advertising and PR professionals, etc. We share a synergy with one another; itʼs the soul of our business.

Most proud of: The life-long friendships Iʼve enjoyed with my co-workers, some over 35 years (to think I first sold Bloomingdaleʼs from my parentsʼ garage in Boise, Idaho at the age of 25). Also, providing scholarships and employment to Native Americans, and raising funds for habitat preservation for raptors has meant a great deal to me and my team. Personally, Iʼm proud to be both dad and best friend to sons Jackson (19) and Will (16).

Stress relief: Fly-fishing, salmon fishing, pheasant hunting, horseback riding, riding my Harley, banding Peregrine falcons, hunting with Kazaks and their eagles on horseback in the Altai Mountains of Central Asia and hanging out with Peregrine Fund biologists in the field.

Goals: A long with a close friend and leader in the high-end eco-tour industry, Iʼm organizing adventure trips for our specialty store customers to remote areas of the world. Our customers/friends can not only “wear the experience,” but participate in the adventures that inspire my collections.

Crystal ball: Along with the inevitable recycling of trends and styles, technological improvements in outdoor gear will be far more advanced. Natural fibers will become ever more valued in casual sportswear, and the style of menʼs suits will become as big a contrast (going forward) as todayʼs looks are from the Edwardian Era. Independent and small design houses/designers will see a resurgence, and the Goliath amalgamation of big-box retail will find competition from a whole new breed of young entrepreneurs, whose personal passion and vision will be the new specialty stores of their time. Or so I hope!

42 MR | www.MRketplace.com

INNOVATOR. ADVISOR. CRITIC. MOTIVATOR. VISIONARY. Congratulations, MR Magazine, on 25 years.

Harry Rosen Harry Rosen Stores Why we picked him: Heʼs an amazing merchant, seller and teacher whoʼs helped many retailers reformulate their businesses. In retail for more than 60 years, heʼs created what is arguably the biggest and best menʼs independent specialty store in the world and the first of the nowubiquitous retailer magazines.

Why he thinks we picked him: I guess Iʼve done a few things that, in the history of retail, have proven noteworthy.

Most proud of: The specialty store business has gone through a variety of cycles and, at age 83, I feel Iʼve managed to stay current. I spend a lot of time walking through shopping centers and I relate to whatʼs happening. I still feel young and “with it” and not out of touch.

Success secrets: I love to learn. And I still get a tremendous kick out of looking after customers and finding them just the right clothes (rarely from a single vendor; I prefer to select items from various collections to create a personalized look, a statement about the individual). From working in the Bloor Street store on Saturdays, I gain insights and fresh ideas. I know many merchants run their business from an office but Iʼm a strong believer in being on the selling floor. However good you are, you can always find ways to be better. Having regular conversations with vendors and other smart retailers keeps me in touch with current attitudes.

Stress relief: I just got back from a film cruise; I take philosophy courses at Florida National University; I love to travel (mostly North America and Europe) to observe people; I love to be in stores and study consumer shopping patterns. I also run and exercise.

Goals: To do more sales training, not only teaching at universities but also in individual stores. To continue to raise money for worthy causes.

Iʼm particularly interested in regenerative medicine, stem cell research and mental health. Thereʼs a great deal of knowledge surfacing in these fields and itʼs very exciting.

Crystal ball: Online will not replace in-store. Specialty stores will always be judged by their quality of service, by treating each customer as an individual.

Saul Korman Korry’s

Why we picked him: Heʼs been a successful retailer for more than 60 years, was the first to promote his store (and himself) via radio advertising, he is a true showman at heart and hasnʼt missed a trade show in many decades.

Why he thinks we picked him: My business has been a destination store through good times and bad, I played a leadership role in the development of the Back to Business campaign in Canada and Iʼve worked hard to raise the profile of the menswear industry through ongoing media opportunities.

Success secrets: We monitor the fashion trends. We attend the menswear shows in North America and in Europe. We know our customers, who are also our friends, and we go the extra mile for them: getting the all-important suit for a major presentation, dropping a suit off at a customerʼs home because they canʼt get to the store. We are all about service. We keep Korryʼs top of mind with our radio commercials on five radio stations daily!

How to keep it fun: I love to tell stories. At heart, I am a storyteller, showman and a menswear retailer! Drop by the store and you will hear many stories I have gathered over 60 years. (I love telling stories on radio. Sometimes it gets me in trouble, but itʼs always entertaining! ) Most proud of: A small, family-owned business which has been successful for over 60 years is a significant accomplishment in this retail landscape. Weʼve had a strong, stable staff. (My former general manager recently retired after 40 years with us.) Iʼve played a significant role in branding and strengthening my local business community, Greektown, which has evolved from lots of used car lots and old stores to a vibrant Greek community that I consistently promote in my radio commercials. Iʼm also proud of my charity work and the awards Iʼve won. In my personal life, Iʼve been married for 59 years now and together, Myrna and I have raised three wonderful children and we have three grandchildren. My sons are very involved in the business now: Shawn and Michael make a good team and they will carry on the Korryʼs tradition. My personal goal is to live to 100!

Who knew? I come from a small community in northern Quebec; I have only a 10th-grade education; I started out in the theater business.

Crystal ball: The small boutique is here to stay. The large department stores (Saks, Nordstrom) are moving up to Canada, but Canadians have a different culture than Americans. We like to support small business. We like to shop with friends. People shop at Korryʼs to see me and my staff.

They could buy the merchandise we sell at many fine stores, but they come all the way to 569 Danforth to see me and listen to my stories.

44 MR | www.MRketplace.com

2015 Fall Slipper Collection

141 West 36th Street • 22nd floor • New York, NY 10018 •800-969-9016

WWW.THESGCOMPANIES.COM

David Fisher Bloomingdale’s

Why we picked him: Heʼs smart, thoughtful, upbeat and real. He brings a warmth to the corporate world thatʼs hard to find. Heʼs a Beatles fan!

Why he thinks we picked him: I have a sincere and passionate dedication to product, people and Bloomingdaleʼs.

Success secret: I focus on vision, people, team building, idea generation and execution.

Most proud of: The mark my team has made on the menʼs industry, the brands weʼve nurtured, the trends weʼve developed and driven, the people Iʼve helped develop for greater growth, personally and professionally.

Stress relief: I play the guitar(s), ride my Harley, read a lot, visit with friends...and enjoy a little Gentleman Jack now and then.

Crystal ball: More tech, more gadgets, more comfort, the proliferation of high-tech fabrics, more ways to buy.

Vivek Nagrani VK Nagrani Why we picked him: Heʼs crazy, creative (check out his irreverent posts on Facebook), works hard/plays hard, never hesitates to say what he thinks, designs great stuff, and has built the coolest place (The Lodge) to hang out in NYC. Why he thinks we picked him: I have no idea. All these years, the only person who thought I was interesting was my mother. Iʼm actually pretty boring.

Success secrets: I take a lot of pride in what I do, the product we make and the way we make the product. I have a genuine respect for the consumer. Most importantly, I never take myself seriously.

How to keep it fun: It is all about perspective. No matter how good we make things, the reality is that we make things that no one really needs. We provide entertainment. Iʼm a showman; my real job is to try and get the sticks out of most peopleʼs asses so they can have some fun.

Personal life: Personal life? Whatʼs that?

Goals: I hope I can inspire my daughter to always follow her passion, to stay true to herself and never settle for average.

Recent quote: When I created this collection, the intention was simple: be everything to someone rather than something to everyone.

46 MR | www.MRketplace.com

Michael Duru Michael Duru Clothiers

Why we picked him: Heʼs a retailer and custom clothier who apprenticed as a tailor at age 13, and was a head fitter at 18. Heʼs outspoken, creative and makes things happen.

Why he thinks we picked him: I figured I was nominated because I am passionate and vocal about our industry. I speak my mind, not in a disrespectful manner, but still I get my point across.

Success secrets: Iʼm very determined and goal oriented. I approach each interaction with clients and vendors as relationship building, not as a transaction. Early on, I sought advice from great merchants like Harry Rosen, Fred and Lee from DLS Outfitters and my first boss, Steven Worby of the Clothing Center.

How to keep it fun: Seeing the energy and the foot traffic in our two locations is still motivating and fun.

Most proud of: The fact that my brother Matt Duru and I have been able to breathe life into a new business. Despite the September 11th tragedy, the worst economic meltdown in decades and Hurricane Sandy, we still managed an average 9 percent growth every year. But by far the single biggest accomplishment of my life is being a dad. No job I ever had has given me this much joy.

Goals: To spend more time with my 10-year-old and push myself to take a day off. To spend time in our new showroom location in NYC and develop a professional sales staff. We have unique service culture in our stores, but the newcomers need to drink the Kool Aid and execute it.

Crystal ball: One-on-one interaction with the customer will have a resurgence. There are plenty of young people who crave professional advice about their wardrobe needs and thereʼs so much misinformation on the web that they are confused. I say to my fellow retailers: donʼt give up just yet. Offer more than just clothing; offer your knowledge.

When you’re this stylish, they call you MR. 25 Harry Rosen congratulates MR magazine on twenty-five years of being North America’s definitive source of style for the menswear industry, and for supporting retailers in the pursuit of helping gentlemen look their best.

MONTREAL • OTTAWA • TORONTO • MISSISSAUGA • WINNIPEG • CALGARY • EDMONTON • VANCOUVER

STEVEN LAND

Photo: Sebastian Taheri spaceandlight.la 213.537.0814

SPRING / SUMMER 2015 COLLECTION

SEE US AT MAGIC LAS VEGAS. TO MAKE AN APPOINTMENT AND LICENSING OPPORTUNITY PLEASE CALL MARK HIKIND 1.800.555.4009 STEVENLAND.COM

Paul Wattenberg Concorde Apparel

Why we chose him: Heʼs been in business for more than 62 consecutive years, training many of our current industry leaders along the way.

Why he thinks we chose him: For my creative, forward-thinking perspective on the business, balancing branded initiatives with private label, domestic production with overseas.

Success secrets: Be nimble, take risks and always listen to the customer. Create new and exciting merchandise every season. Stay ahead of the market and innovate. My father began manufacturing in the USA in 1940. When I started in the 1950s, I wondered how a small family business could compete against the giants. My dad advised me that as long as a company is innovative and creates a competitive garment, they can compete.

Most proud of: Being chosen master licensor for the Adolfo brand approximately 40 years ago. Additionally Iʼm most proud watching my son carry on my business philosophy that has sustained us for 75 years. Nothing is more important to me than my family. Iʼve taken great pleasure in seeing my children and grandchildren grow into fine, productive young women and men.

Stress relief: Golf, exercise, visiting modern art museums and traveling to Europe. (But my weekly massage is what really takes the edge off.)

Goals: I look forward to coming to work every day. Thatʼs what I like to do! I still strive to create the perfect garment, a very difficult task. Personally, Iʼd like to learn how to paint and sculpt.

Crystal ball: There are a tremendous amount of young creative designers whose input will stimulate new business and excitement. Although the menswear business is constantly changing, everything that is new is really a twist on the past. What is in one year and is out the next will definitely resurface sometime in the future. Believe me: over the past 62 years Iʼve seen it all, but I am looking forward to whatʼs yet to come.

Paul Rosengard DDK

Why we chose him: Heʼs the only person in the industry who has been photographed for Schmoozing in virtually every issue for the past 25 years. He knows everyone and makes things happen.

Why he thinks we chose him: Because Karen Alberg Grossman thinks Iʼm handsome? For my ability to recall an apropos quote for almost any situation?

Success secret: The same three things that account for almost anyoneʼs success: A little talent, a lot of hard work and just the right amount of luck.

How to keep it fun: By hanging out with people I truly like, people who make me laugh and smile. Smiles are contagious, so are frowns.

Most proud of: My ability to recognize talent and potential in others...and then convince them to join whatever company I am working for, sometimes more than once. And of course my three great kids...all raised behind enemy lines, and all Red Sox fans.

Stress relief: I read Vince Flynn novels, walk my 140-pound dog in Central Park, watch ESPN and Shark Tank. I like playing golf with my friends, rooting for Boston sports teams, inspiring students to enter our industry (primarily through the YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund), and teaching industry-related courses at Parsons and FIT. Goals: To build Boston Traders into the preeminent outdoor brand, coach underprivileged kids in Little League, teach college calculus, watch my children become self-sufficient in fulfilling careers, and take my family on an African safari.

Who knew? Iʼm a math geek and puzzle enthusiast. And I judge the Miss USA Beauty Pageant.

Crystal ball: People in the menswear market will continue to operate with more integrity than others.

50 MR | www.MRketplace.com

PRESENTING AT PROJECT LAS VEGAS

Nick Graham Marketing Maven

Why we chose him: Heʼs the original creative genius in menswear, always coming up with outrageous marketing ideas.

Why he thinks we chose him: Because doing things like sending underwear into space, creating my own Macyʼs parade or putting bow ties on the Statue of Liberty seems quite normal to me.

Success secrets: Thinking outside the box seems such an ʼ80s thing to say, but I do like to push the idea of what is normal and expected. Marketing is simply creating an emotional relationship with an inanimate object; I like to push the emotional part a lot.

Most proud of: Iʼm very proud of Joe Boxer. That was somewhat of a happy accident, and itʼs still is one of the most powerful brands around. To see the Kmart commercials with the jingle balls dudes at Christmas means the ironic resiliency of that brand continues. I absolutely love my kids, and am proud they have grown into great people.

Stress relief: I like to read, when I can. Right now I am reading The Empire of Cotton on the history of cotton (every garmento should read it) and The Innovators by Walter Isaacson, which is fascinating. Iʼm also a big napper (I get up at 4:30 a.m.), and am starting a site called The Dapper Napper, dedicated to guys who dress well when they nap.

Goals: To make Nick Graham a global American menswear/lifestyle brand and to give guys everywhere the tools to dress better, look more modern and get more action. In many ways this idea is bigger than Joe Boxer: itʼs more approachable and more international.

Who knew? My great-grandfather was Sir James Dunn, one of the more eccentric knights ever. He had a close relationship with Salvador Dali and Dali painted many portraits of him.

Crystal ball: The next 25 years of menswear will be a lot more exciting than the past 25.

The younger generation is more conscious of what they wear and how they present themselves, which will push the industry to be more innovative. We are about to enter what I call the Post Prep era....

Steve, Lawrence and Alan Behar Ike Behar

Why we chose them: We love their parents̶Ike and Regina (and Angie!).

Whey they think we chose them: We like to think that weʼre unique in the sense that we are one of the last family-owned and operated American shirt companies left. Most interesting: weʼve been working together for 30 years as a family and still manage to get along.

Success secret: It all started with our father, Ike Behar, who happened to create a quality product second to none in terms of value, craftsmanship and style.

How to keep it fun: By allowing ourselves and our company to evolve in an ever-changing marketplace.

Most proud of: The success weʼve had in furthering our fatherʼs legacy and helping to build his dream of an American menswear brand that values quality and craftsmanship.

Stress relief: Steve is passionate about cycling, Lawrence cooking and Alan the beach.

Goals: Weʼd like to continue growing our business within the family. We already have part of the third generation working at Ike Behar (Alanʼs son Josh, Steveʼs daughter Alexandra and Lawrenceʼs daughter Stephanie), and weʼd love to see more get involved. And of course, weʼd love to foster the growth of our retail operation in the spirit of how weʼve run our business for the past 50 years.

Who knew? Steve was once a party DJ for hire. Lawrence was once in a Grateful Dead cover band. Alan once wanted to be an actor.

Crystal ball: For sure the next 25 years will continue to see a more eclectic mix of menswear, with sustainable production and ecologically responsible fabrics revolutionizing the way we do things. Plus, we expect the wearable tech market to gain momentum.

52 MR | www.MRketplace.com

Haupt salutes MR on turning 25!

Cecile Revah Bugatchi Uomo

Why we picked her: Sheʼs a dynamo whoʼs built a highly successful, nationally recognized brand from scratch. Sheʼs both tough and charming.

Success secrets: I want to say in the most humble way that I am very hands-on, always accessible and present on all fronts. On any given day, I can be in the warehouse, in the showroom, in the design studio, in the graphics department. I have an open-door policy so that every staff member can feel comfortable coming into my office without hesitation.

This is also the case with customers: Every single customer is important to me; I make sure that every issue is addressed immediately and resolved as much as possible to the satisfaction of the customer.

How to keep it fun: Every new season in this industry is like a rebirth and as such, has its fair share of stress and fun. I try to manage each with an open mind and a large dose of goodwill.

Stress relief: I answer emails...LOL! Interests outside of work: Thereʼs life outside of work? Just kidding!

Whatever free time I can manage, I try to spend quality time with my husband and my three boys.

Goals: On a personal level, I am looking forward to being a grandmother. This is the next milestone in my life as a woman and mother. Professionally, I want to bring Bugatchi to its highest level of success and then hand over its management to the next generation.

schuyler4.com

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AMERICAN-MADE heritagebystcroix heritagebystcroix.com

www.MRketplace.com | MR 53

CARSON STREET CLOTHIERS CRISTIANO MAGNI ERNEST SABINE FRANCESCO CIANCI GENEVIEVE ASCENCIO GREG SWALES HUDSON HAWK BARBER & SHOP JOE GANNON JR MUMFORD KATHERINE MCMILLAN KEVIN HANSEN LOUGÃ&#x2C6; DELCY LUCIO CASTRO MARK BOLLMAN MATTEO GOTTARDI MATTHEW CLARKSON MICKEY ASHMORE NICHOLAS LAMIRATA PHILLIP SALEM RICHARD CHUN SHOCKOE ATELIER SUNFLOWERMAN TERRY LU TM FASHION GROUP YUVI ALPERT

ON

Matthew Miller Sunflowerman

Matthew Miller, AKA Sunflowerman, says he saw a need in the market for menswear illustration, so he stepped in to fill it. “Fashion illustration is just now finding its footing in the industry,” he says. “For many years it was dead; perhaps an illustration here or there but mostly in insignificant places. I see the menswear community embracing it and adopting it into their marketing and branding now.”

On his favorite wardrobe item: Just before Christmas I stopped at Goodwill̶I didnʼt have any expectations̶and I came across a pair of single monkstrap shoes with the label Miguel Angel.

They were different than anything Iʼve seen before and they fit perfectly. I googled Miguel Angel and found out they were made by a now-defunct shoe store in Dallas. I love to illustrate menʼs shoes and thereʼs usually a great response to it on social media.

On his life outside menswear: My wife and I do a lot of traveling. Actually, we are living a sort of nomadic life. We donʼt own a home or have a lease on any sort of housing. We are tethered to a kinetic lifestyle. I am constantly listening to podcasts and reading about marketing. Ah, and of course my love of coffee. I love everything about it: the different brewing methods, the different roasts, the culture.

THE RISE

From retailers to designers, photographers to bloggers, we scoured the market to find the next big names in menswear. By Elise Diamantini

Phillip Salem Owen

Phillip Salem always knew he wanted to run his own store. So when he graduated from The Fashion Institute of Technology, he wrote a business plan and opened Owen in Manhattanʼs Meatpacking District in 2012. Menswear at Owen is a smaller part of his business, but heʼs currently selling brands like 3.1 Phillip Lim, Acne and Tim Coppens.

On how to make business better: The menswear industry needs to take more risks. There are so many options for women in regard to “going out” pieces or statement looks that are comfortable with just the right amount of punch. Menswear is quite limited because a lot of designers feel there isnʼt a customer for it. However, there are a handful of designers, many which I carry, that cater to a forward, late-20/ early-30-year-old creative professional.

On his style icon: Drew Ginsburg, the designer and creative director of Dylanlex. She is the epitome of a confident class act! And on top of it, she is the nicest person in the world.

On hobbies outside menswear: Dancing. My friend Mila does private dance lessons with me at least once a month. Itʼs such a release and it takes me away from the thought of clothes, customers and budgets.

On where heʼll be in 25 years: In 25 years, I hope to have 25 stores. I am a big dreamer!

www.MRketplace.com | MR 55

PHOTO BY FOX KELLY PHOTOGRAPHY

Kevin Hansen

Men’s Style Lab

Genevieve Ascencio Factory PR

Genevieve Ascencio discovered her love for menswear when she started working with menswear clients at Factory PR. “Thereʼs something poetic about menswear,” she says. “Itʼs all about knowing which rules to break and when. I learned about menswear from producing my clientsʼ fashion shows, learning the trade show circuit and creating press-worthy stories. Since then, Iʼve launched many brands and to this day, I still get a kick out of it.” Currently she works on marketing strategy and digital content at Factory for a range of brands.

On how to make business better: Keep evolving!

The menswear industry is changing at just the right pace. If it happens too fast it will feel inauthentic. The industry is receptive to the needs of its consumers: incorporating technology and embracing social media in meaningful ways. Thatʼs what makes it interesting.

On her male style icons: Thereʼs a timelessness about how Malcolm X dressed; he had a signature look. To this day people refer to the glasses he wore as “Malcolm X” glasses. And of course, John F Kennedy; he had a way of dressing up but still seeming very approachable and he remains the benchmark of cool.

On her hobbies outside menswear: I like spending time behind the camera lens and trying new recipes that I come across on Pinterest.

On where sheʼll be in 25 years: In 25 years, I hope to have invented something that makes people say, “Why didnʼt I think of that?”

56 MR | www.MRketplace.com

Kevin Hansen may have landed in the menʼs retail business accidentally, but heʼs made a mark: as the manager and buyer for Badowers in Des Moines, Iowa, he transformed a traditional clothing shop into a nationally recognized contemporary menʼs store. In December, he joined Des Moinesbased start-up Menʼs Style Lab, which just secured $1.85 million in financing.

On Menʼs Style Lab: Menʼs Style Lab is a concierge clothing service at an opening price. The concept is still so new to the marketplace that I believe there will be room for a few really solid companies. There is a novelty to getting an assortment shipped to your door with a few days to make a decision. If itʼs backed up with great service and style advice, itʼs a great option for guys.

On his style icon: Glenn OʻBrien, not because of how he dresses as much as the way he talks about how men should have “a sense of occasion.” And most men donʼt.

On his life outside menswear: Des Moines is great city. My fiancée and I enjoy taking advantage of that and getting involved where we can. I also like to get outdoors. I really love to fly fish. ̶HS

Lucio Castro Lucio Castro

Lucio Castro studied womenʼs wear at Parsons, but everyone kept telling him that he should design menswear because he liked to “twist interior details” and keep the silhouettes pretty straightforward. And so he began designing his eponymous menswear brand as a modern uniform for todayʼs man.

Now Lucio Castro is sold at stores like Bloomingdaleʼs, Saks, American Rag and Ron Herman.

On his advice to new designers: Progress slowly. Create something durable, relevant and personal. Stay true to who you are as a designer and always remind yourself of what attracted you to designing clothes in the first place.

On his favorite wardrobe item: An ugly sweater my aunt knitted for me a long time ago. It reminds me to never take myself too seriously.

On where heʼll be in 25 years: I see myself designing for airlines (space airlines of course), from stationary to uniforms and upholstery.

Something amazing will come up from the fusion between technology and nature.

Photo: Sebastian Taheri spaceandlight.la 213.537.0814

Maxman Inc. 877.922.7664 baroniprive.com See us at MRKET Las Vegas Booth No. 1575

Nicholas Lamirata J Brand

As a teenager, Nicholas Lamirata worked on the sales floor of a few contemporary denim stores, where he realized he was blessed with the “gift of gab.” This discovery led him into a career in wholesale. Currently heʼs the account executive for J Brand menʼs East Coast division, where heʼs been for the past three years.

On how to make business better: In order for the menswear business to grow and evolve, men need to continue taking risks. Itʼs our responsibility to push our customers into new and exciting product. I think for the first time ever we are seeing men try new fits, slimmer bodies and fashionforward styles.

On his favorite wardrobe item: Itʼs always been a leather jacket. No matter my mood, I just feel badass when Iʼm wearing it.

On his male style icons: Every time I see a welldressed man I get inspired. One in particular is Nick Wooster. He really knows how to put an outfit together and make it look effortless while still looking cool. As far as celebrities, Johnny Depp, James Dean, Marlon Brando and Kanye West have all continued to set tones in menʼs fashion.

Greg Swales

Greg Swales Photography Greg Swales got his start in fashion after he moved to New York City almost a decade ago. He now shoots fashion editorials for magazines like GQ. On how fashion photography has changed: Menʼs fashion photography now incorporates more natural/imperfect moments and isnʼt as posed as it used to be. Also, male models are getting thinner and younger; the classic muscular, masculine guy is used less and less in high fashion.

On his style icons: James Deanʼs style will always be cool, from his leather jacket to that classic hairstyle. A photo shoot inspired by him will be current at any time.

On his hobbies outside menswear: I love painting and Cuban salsa.

On menswear in 25 years: Fashion usually recycles every 20 years, so menswear will have a lot of similarities to what we see right now, but it will be considered vintage.

58 MR | www.MRketplace.com

Matteo Gottardi W.R.K.

Matteo Gottardi created W.R.K. after a motorcycle trip through South Africa. At the time, he was designing for retailers like Nordstrom, Macyʼs and Neiman Marcus but saw a void in the market for a functional menswear brand. “Purposeful design is the base of W.R.K.ʼs aesthetic,” explains Gottardi. “We want to design pieces real guys can relate to. Price is a significant factor for men, and weʼve been incredibly conscious about producing thoughtfully designed, quality product at an attainable price. Our shirts start at $98 and outerwear at $298.” Now W.R.K. is sold at stores like Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Scoop, and launching a dress shirt and furnishings program at Nordstrom this season.

On how to make business better: The biggest problem with the menswear industry today is the lack of thoughtful design for real guys. Although the trenddriven fashion pieces can be cool, they typically arenʼt designed with much purpose apart from their aesthetic. We need to start designing pieces that men can identify with and truly feel comfortable in: items that are made to last through years of closet cleanings.

On his hobbies outside menswear: Iʼm an avid motorcycle rider and it has influenced many parts of my life, including my design aesthetic at W.R.K. Iʼm constantly incorporating details such as articulated sleeves, waterresistant fabrics and throat latches into our designs for the everyday rider. There is nothing quite like riding your motorcycle on the open road; itʼs a feeling that canʼt be described, only experienced. Another hobby of mine is skiing. I canʼt remember when I first learned, but I think it was even before I could walk. As soon as the thermometer begins to drop I start craving a good snow-covered peak to ski down.

On where heʼll be in 25 years: Life has a funny way of turning out the way itʼs supposed to. Iʼll leave this one up to fate and enjoy the ride.

Katherine McMillan

Pierrepont Hicks and Northern Grade Katherine McMillan and her husband Mac started their neckwear brand Pierrepont Hicks in 2009 and she co-founded the traveling menswear flea market Northern Grade a year later.

Northern Grade, which started in Minneapolis and focuses on American-made menswear, has since held shows in Los Angeles, New York, Chicago, Austin and other cities.

On what menswear does right and how it can be better: I think itʼs important that menswear doesnʼt forget where it came from. You canʼt turn a blind eye to the classics. Iʼm all for change and the progression of style, but I think at its core, menswear needs to retain its heart. The brands that embrace classic style and riff off existing themes will be the brands that will enjoy longevity. Focus on fit. Obsess over fabric. Add a touch of your own flair... but donʼt reinvent the wheel. Also, I think menswear shouldnʼt take itself too seriously. In the end, itʼs just clothing. We just get to set the stage for men to explore and develop their own personal style.

Her favorite shoes: I have a pair of pony hair loafers I made as a personal treat and I love them. Theyʼre on the repeat rotation right now. ̶HS PHOTO BY CINZIA BRANDI

Cristiano Magni

Cristiano Magni Public Relations After earning a masterʼs degree in public relations and public affairs, Cristiano Magni was bitten by the PR bug. His boutique firm specializes in young and iconic European fashion brands like L.B.M 1911, Stone Island and Marwood.

On where menswear is headed: I think the demand for more techno fabrics and high-performance clothing will keep growing. There will also be a revival of more constructed sportcoats. It will be a mix between techno-luxury sportswear and finely tailored pieces.

On his male style icons: Marcello Mastroianni. He never took himself (or his wardrobe) too seriously and always managed to look effortlessly elegant.

On his hobbies outside menswear: I feel great when I work out and I love furniture and interiors. I spend hours reading interior design magazines (sometimes on the treadmill). I enjoy collecting and restoring mid-century modern pieces that I find online or in thrift stores.

Terry Lu

Essential Homme The concept of Essential Homme was created after Terry Lu met its now publishing director during a marketing seminar at Baruch business school. The two realized there was a limited offering of American menʼs fashion magazines: they were either too stodgy or way too artistic. He explains, “Men of the new millennium are evolving; they are spending more disposable income on clothes and accessories, but there isnʼt any publication that provides men with both shopping and style information in an inspirational and realistic way.” And so they launched Essential Homme in September 2010, “to serve, to purvey and to inspire.”

On how the menswear industry has changed and where itʼs headed: Whatʼs really interesting to me is that, about five to 10 years ago, menswear was dominated by heritage brands, everything classic. But nowadays with the influence of street style and the internet that makes information so accessible, men are constantly exposed to new and diverse ideas, and, therefore, their perspective on menʼs fashion and style changed drastically. With more demand for innovation, the industry shifted; more and more streetwear-inspired “cool“ brands are gaining prominence. The good olʼ heritage brands are losing their momentum and market share, and, as a result, trying to reposition themselves to find an edge with an appeal. Menswear will continue to flourish as more men pay attention to their personal style.

On his favorite wardrobe item: Prada brogue shoes with serrated/shark tooth soles from AW13, because they are out of the ordinary yet beautiful.

On menswear in 25 years: Itʼs really hard to predict where menswear will be in 25 years; perhaps one might be able to dress himself with an app.

60 MR | www.MRketplace.com

HAPPY 25 TH MR! We value you and our partners.

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1518103MW

Matthew Clarkson Ermenegildo Zegna

Before he got into fashion, Matthew Clarkson played professional baseball for the Pittsburgh Pirates. After his baseball career ended, Clarkson was hired by Neiman Marcus to open Tom Ford shop-in-shops within their stores. When Zegna approached him three years later, he packed his bags for NYC and never looked back. Now Clarkson is the sartorial account executive (who happens to specialize in made to measure), working with U.S. accounts like Neiman Marcus and Barneys.

On what the industry needs to make business better: Youʼll have to remember, Iʼm a smalltown Oklahoma boy at heart and I grew up a long way from Fifth Avenue. Iʼd like to see the industry become more mutually beneficial to all parties. I think a lot of decisions are made with only the “bottom line” in mind instead of doing whatʼs right by your customer, from the wholesale level all the way to the transaction between the sales associate and the final consumer.

On his favorite wardrobe item: An absurd Tom Ford 100% silk chocolate brown doublebreasted wide pinstripe suit. My first recollections of menswear were seeing movies like The Sting and The Great Gatsby, both starring Robert Redford. I remember as a child seeing him in his brown double-breasted pinstripe suit and the lightbulb kind of went off. I got bit with the menswear bug. So the suit is sort of like my little boy menswear dreams becoming realized. I wear it maybe a handful of times a year on days I need a bit of a lift.

On hobbies outside menswear: I love being outdoors and Iʼm a big-time cycling enthusiast. Itʼs my preferred method of transportation around NYC and my apartment boasts a bike in every room. Iʼm a huge fan of jazz/blues and I try to take advantage of the museums here in the city.

JR Mumford The Kooples

JR Mumford grew up in Ocean City, Maryland and spent every free second of his time at Malibuʼs Surf Shop because he loved surf culture and the retail environment.

“I loved meeting the brand reps that would pass through and always wanted their jobs. I figured, if I could travel, meet interesting people, surf and have cool clothes, then it wouldnʼt really be a job but a great life.” When he was in college, he randomly met John Varvatos at Saks Fifth Avenue in Chevy Chase, Maryland, which led him to a PR internship at the designerʼs brand. “During the internship I was frequently pulled into the showroom to assist the account executives and from there I realized wholesale was my destined career path.” After college, he landed a job as a brand ambassador for Tom Ford at Bergdorf Goodman, then he became an account executive at Zegna. Mumford is now the director of menʼs wholesale for North America at The Kooples.

On what the menswear industry is doing right: The industry is slowly getting better at providing more buy now/wear now product for earlier deliveries.

On his style icons: My friend George Cortina. Everything about his look is always effortless: whether heʼs dressed for black tie or meeting me downtown for coffee, he always comes correct. Plus, heʼs the only person to give me a hard time for wearing brown, and I secretly love that.

On where heʼll be in 25 years: Iʼll probably still be talking about menswear, or running a boutique hotel in the Israeli desert with Elsa Assouline.

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Richard Chun Idiel Showroom

Richard Chun graduated business school in Minnesota and moved to New York City as fast as he could to start his career in fashion. After interning for companies like Y-3, BPMW and Fila, Chun was hired by Capsule as a show promoter with a focus on bringing in Asian brands. He then went on to launch Idiel showroom in 2009, a multi-brand sales and consulting agency. His concept for Idiel is to help overseas designers (especially from Asia) expand their businesses internationally. In menʼs, he works with brands like General Idea, KYE, Munsoo Kwon, Skingraft, Varcity, DBSW and AM Eyewear.

On how to make business better: Thereʼs a lot of competition for small brands. We need more opportunities to present to buyers and consumers.

On his style icon: Rick Owens. He brought the avant garde category to the commercial market. I think he is brilliant.

On where heʼll be in 25 years: I want to run a fashion house that includes all the components: my own brand, sales, distribution, marketing, PR, show production, music, etc.

Mickey Ashmore Sabah

Mickey Ashmore founded Sabah in June 2013 after spending time traveling and living abroad in Istanbul. Ashmore was given a pair of leather slippers from the grandmother of his summer romance and says he almost never took them off. A year later, he was back in New York City, working in finance, still wearing the slippers everywhere he went. “My friends and even strangers on the street would ask me about them and comment on how beautifully worn-in they had become. Unable to find anything similar in the market, I sought out the original craftsman in Turkey through my friendʼs grandmother. What started as a search for another pair of shoes slowly became the creation of my brand. By utilizing traditional construction techniques and working with the skilled craftsmen, we created a more modern design and better fit using higher-quality leathers and a replaceable natural rubber outsole.”

On Sabah Sundays: I launched Sabah while I still had a full-time job in finance. I would host parties on Sundays that became known as Sabah Sundays, to sell shoes and bring people together. It was really just for fun...and then it suddenly became real as people I did not know were showing up asking for shoes. Sabahs are $170 per pair. We make a few pairs with specialty leathers that run up to $250, and we currently have collaborations with two fantastic artists who uniquely hand-paint Sabahs̶those go for $400 and up.

On his life outside menswear: My business is tightly linked to my life and lifestyle. Sabah is a traveler brand and Iʼm a traveler. I love being in the airport and in a hotel. I also like to write and take photos. I love hiking and try to do it every chance I get, which is not so easy in NYC. Lastly, I really love to cook and entertain. That is showcased through Sabah Sundays and the regular dinners we host at the Sabah House.

Matthew Breen and Brian Trunzo Carson Street Clothiers

Brian Trunzo and Matthew Breen moonlighted as menswear bloggers before leaving their careers in corporate law to open Carson Street Clothiers in 2013. The 2,000-sq.-ft. store on Manhattanʼs Crosby Street sells designers like Umit Benan, Eidos Napoli and Michael Bastian. Here, Brian Trunzo shares his insight on menswear.

On how to make business better: Menswear needs to respect the integrity of designer goods and stop the race to the bottom with respect to prices. It is the only luxury market that behaves in such a way̶you canʼt buy a luxury automobile for 60 to 80 percent off at the end of the season, and the automotive industry is cyclical as well! What menswear gets right is that it is starting to carve out its own markets and fashion weeks to separate itself from the shadows of womenʼs fashion, from London Collections: Men to the [rumored] standalone NYFW. On his hobbies outside menswear: Iʼm a real video game geek; sometimes I actively have to try not to purchase a game I know will occupy my entire life. And then thereʼs running; I recently quit smoking, and running has become my new addiction, I guess.

On menswear in 25 years: Weʼll probably be delivering spring collections in October of the previous year if these sorts of weird practices do not cease or at least slow down. Or maybe the idea of collections will be all but eviscerated̶maybe designers will put forth collections the way artists paint or authors write; you know, whenever they feel a masterpiece at their fingertips. Itʼs really hard to say.

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©2015 VRY WRM™ 212.695.7716

™

FA LL 2015

MRket BOOTH 1151 DP

Francesco Cianci Basico

Originally from Colombia, Francesco Cianci moved to Miami and opened a singlebranded menswear store in 1999. Three years ago, he rebranded it as Basico, a multibrand store carrying contemporary collections like Closed, Zanerobe, Clae and Thorocraft.

Cianci now has two stores̶the original in Miami and another in Waywood, Florida̶ with plans to open more.

On Basicoʼs aesthetic: I wanted to create intimate boutiques where the customers know the owner and the owner does the buying. I want to romanticize the shopping experience. I love when a customer finds something that heʼs never seen before.

On his buying style: I buy what I want to wear myself. And my style changes all the time: it used to be dressy and now Iʼm dressing more for comfort. Iʼm currently into longer, drapey T-shirts. Iʼm always looking for the next thing so my customers donʼt get bored.

On fall 2015: Iʼm looking for more color and prints (floral and animal) because guys are much more daring than ever before. They want to have fun with their clothes. Especially if they canʼt dress the way they want during the week, they want to experiment with their weekend wear. Comfort and fit are key. Weʼll continue to see joggers play an important role in his wardrobe. This look is super cool and comfortable. Weʼre doing well with styles from Zanerobe. Iʼm also loving Japanese brands like Caminando sneakers. Swim brands like Venroy ($119 retail for trunks) are selling because they offer very different prints.

On how to make business better: Itʼs hard to compete with the big guys, so we need more independently owned stores to help it grow.

Congratulations to MR Magazine

25 YEARS STRONG!

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CONGRATULATIONS

MR ,

ON 25 YEARS AT

THE LEADING EDGE OF MENSWEAR.

Kaila Magnone, Michael Magnone, Chris Magnone and Sabrina Silvestri TM Fashion Group

Michael and Chris Magnoneʼs father was a denim manufacturer in the ʼ90s, so the brothers “grew up in the industry,” spending summers working in the warehouse and learning the business. They launched TM Fashion Group in 2005 as a full sales and distribution company. Now with sister Kaila and Chrisʼs wife Sabrina, the company touts a 10,000-sq.-ft. facility, selling brands like Handstich, Circle of Gentlemen and Berwich.

On how to make business better: MM & CM: Specialty stores should continue to expose their customers to new brands. We are living in a world where consumers are constantly stimulated thanks to social media; they need the same excitement and stimulation at retail to keep them coming back. Ultimately we canʼt let our customers settle for looking like everyone else. Men need to develop their fashion identities.

On what the industry is doing right: MM & CM: The menʼs market is evolving, albeit sometimes slowly. Stores that have been around for generations are bringing in fresh eyes to help bridge the gap for the next generation of shoppers. Itʼs a very exciting time to be in the menswear industry; an appreciation for fashion that boasts quality that will stand the test of time is back.

On life outside menswear: MM: My hobbies revolve around family and wellbeing. Every chance I get I try to spend time with my new son.

CM: I love traveling, playing sports and cooking.

KM: Painting and anything outdoors.

We doff our cap to Stu Nifoussi.

Celebrating 25 years of innovation and leadership in menswear.

Model is wearing Worsted Alsport II from Hardy Minnis. Made in England.

w w w. g l a d s o n l t d . c o m • s a l e s @ g l a d s o n l t d . c o m • 8 5 5 - 3 43 - 6 3 7 3

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QUESTIONS?

THEY’VE GOT ANSWERS AT MRKETPLACE.COM ASK STEVE ABOUT MERCHANDISE PLANNING AND STRATEGY Steve Pruitt is founder and Senior Consultant of Blacks Retail Analysis and Blacks Consulting.

With over 30 years of experience, Steve’s specialty is apparel merchandising and he has worked with clients in every sector of this category. Steve is also a trusted general business consultant, known for his ability to help retailers plan growth and manage change.

ASK MICHAEL ABOUT PAYMENT PROCESSING AND PCI SECURITY Michael Dattoma is President of The Bart Group Retail Merchant Services.

Michael has been consulting for over 20 years in areas including Payment Processing, PCI Security Compliance, POS Inventory Control, as well as Mobile Marketing and Social Media. Michael and his team advocate for independent specialty retailers to help empower them with the resources, tools and expertise to thrive in an increasingly competitive marketplace.

ASK JOHN OR JAKE ABOUT MARKETING John Fell spent 25 years as a high-end apparel retailer and three as a retail consultant before founding eMarketing Logic (E-Mail Logic) in 2002. eMarketing Logic’s team blends modern, multi-channel marketing platforms with cutting edge technical skills, top-notch creativity, and experienced marketing savvy. Jake Fell assists retailers in evolving their image and value proposition to be more appealing to younger customers.

ASK NEAL ABOUT COMMERCE SOLUTIONS Neal Kaiser is the founder and CEO of Upshot Commerce, a leading provider of omni-channel commerce solutions.

Neal has two decades of internet and technology experience in omni-channel retailing. He has led integration efforts with companies such as eBay, Amazon, Sage, and his company has recently turned its attention to helping midsize retailers and apparel manufacturers navigate the complex worlds of e-commerce merchandising, inventory, and order management.

VISIT THEM AT WWW.MRKETPLACE.COM TODAY. If you’d like to become a MRketplace.com Expert, contact Michelle Brown at 212-710-7413 or michelleb@MRketplace.com

MR Magazine, 1384 Broadway, 11th Fl, NYC 10018 | MRketplace.com

Lougè Delcy Dapper Lou

Lougè Delcy got his start in fashion as a stylist, but he quickly transitioned into photography because he wanted to have more control over the content. He founded Dapper Lou in 2009 as a medium to, “share his perspective of menswear.” He adds, “The website has allowed me to photograph, cast models, style and direct my projects which has helped my vision. The internet has really been a great outlet to share my work because people want to be inspired.” Delcy says he now covers more than menswear on his site including things like culture, lifestyle, travel, food and art. “The idea is storytelling,” he says, “and documenting all things of interest without following the crowd. I also collaborate with a team of other photographers, poets and illustrators [to create content on the site].”

On his subjects: I typically photograph people who have a laid-back style because thatʼs what I tend to admire. Although once in a while, Iʼm drawn to something bold.

On his hobbies outside menswear: I love visiting the latest exhibitions at art galleries and museums, riding my bike around the city, daily bible reading, hosting gatherings at my house and traveling to different places.

On his favorite wardrobe item: My signature fedora because it goes with everything and the more I wear it, the more character it has.

Mark Bollman

Ball & Buck and American Field Mark Bollman is the founder of Ball & Buck, an American-made menswear brand and retail store based in Boston. He also founded American Field, a traveling menswear market focused on American-made goods.

On fall 2015: The materials we use in our collections really drive our direction for the season and fall ʼ15 is no exception. Expect to see a healthy offering of waxed cotton, duck cloth, beautiful flannels, oxford cotton and full-grain leather.

On menswear in 25 years: Menswear will straddle a line between technology and quality.

Conscious consumerism will drive men to purchase quality products that tell a story and really represent who they are rather than just solving a need. At the same time, the advent of new technologies like 3D printing will enable people all around the world to have access to designer collections wherever they may live and even be able to create their own garments with the click of a button. As this new technology enables anyone to create garments with relative ease, the importance of brands baking quality into their products will be paramount.

Yuvi Alpert Men in Cities Yuvi Alpert says the idea for Men in Cities was selfish in nature. He could never find well designed menʼs accessories, so he started making them himself. “You could find plenty of high-end designer products, but the ones with lower price points didnʼt have the right quality.” And so Alpert created Men in Cities, an accessories brand inspired by his life in New York City and made with materials he sources from all over the world.

On what the menswear industry is doing right: The menswear business is beginning to make great strides, with more brands offering complete transparency and stepping outside the confines of the fashion calendar. More brands are behaving as innovative startups by incorporating technology into their business models and product offerings in a way that begins to seamlessly integrate with modern menʼs lifestyles and needs.

On his hobbies outside menswear: I love to hike, play basketball and ride my bike all over the city. I travel whenever I can and I meditate for at least 20 minutes a day.

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Thad Forrester and Paul Catlett

Hudson Hawk Barber & Shop Thad Forrester and Paul Catlett, two Vidal Sassoon Academy-trained barbers, opened the first Hudson Hawk location in their hometown of Springfield, Missouri in 2013. Catlett had been running a hair salon called Studio 417 since 2000 when he and Forrester, a client, started talking about opening a classic barber shop. Now they have three locations with a unique and growing menswear component.

Thad Forrester on adding menswear to the barber shop: From the beginning we included a small selection of unique, made-in-the-USA accessories for men in addition to classic barber shop services. These included denim, hats, T-shirts, sunglasses, socks, belts and bow ties. Baldwin Denim is carried in our Farmers Park location and is being well received in Springfield. The key is educating them on the Baldwin brand story, the quality fabric, the tailored but comfortable fit, and the process of breaking in a pair of raw denim for the first time̶a rite of passage for guys, or at least it should be.

Forrester on his style icons: As a barber, I check out looks from head to toe and itʼs hard to beat Nick Woosterʼs signature messy quiff and effortless style. Alton Brown is always on his game. Great at mixing patterns, wearing color well, and always has the right accessories; from a vintage watch to pocket square and bow tie, he is dialed in.

Paul Catlett on his favorite wardrobe item: My Baldwin Denim cardigan̶ impeccable fit and the most luxurious thick cashmere̶itʼs an awesome piece. ̶HS

Joe Gannon Branding consultant and co-host of Made Right Here

“I'm essentially a hobbyist,” Joe Gannon admits. “I've just had a vested interest in the clothes that I wore from age 10.” Gannon, whoʼs a chemist and biologist by day, has taken that passion and turned it into a rewarding side career helping brands and spreading the gospel about American manufacturing through a series of videos he co-hosts with Max Wastler, sponsored by Maxwell House Coffee.

On the Made Right Here series: We started in menswear before branching out to other mediums.

Denim newcomer (at the time) Imogene and Willie, heritage workwear maker Pointer Brand and a small artisan belt maker in Tennessee named Billy Moore comprised the first three episodes we shot. We had always been enamored with the process, but we wanted to dig into the background of the people who were makers. Anyone who has worked in this industry knows what it takes to get things made. It's not an easy task. We like to think we are shining a light on the behind-the-scenes, maybe opening the door into the human side of manufacturing.

On why former Delaware Rep. Bobby Quillen is one of his style icons: He was a guy who grew up in a small town just like me, a farm boy essentially, but he always wore penny loafers without socks, his pants were always perfectly hemmed, and he always wore a sportcoat (sometimes with a tie). His fit was perfect and I noticed it made people stop and listen to what he said. He took his personal style seriously and people took him seriously. Style is nothing without personality. ̶HS

Matt Rho, Pierre Lupesco and Anthony Lupesco Shockoe Atelier

Shockoe Atelier was launched as Shockoe Denim in 2012. Design is led by Anthony Lupesco and his father Pierre, a 40-year veteran of the luxury business, oversees production. Matt Rho, a former investment banker, joined the Lupesco family to run the business side. Shockoeʼs jeans are handmade in Richmond, Va. and its jackets, overcoats and shirts are made in Italy.

On retailers that do it right: We've seen some stores that really do a wonderful job of creating a warm, inviting atmosphere that makes it easy for men to engage in this process, places like MartinPatrick3 in Minneapolis, Context in Madison, Wisconsin and Taylor Richards & Conger in Charlotte. These are the stores who are on the frontlines of this menswear renaissance we're seeing right now.

On their favorite wardrobe items: Anthony: Natural-colored jeans from our AW15 collection. The fabric is an unseeded, undyed selvedge from Collect Mills. There are layers and layers of texture in these jeans.

Pierre: Charcoal and red plaid alpaca overcoat from Shockoe's AW15 collection. It's the perfect marriage of really gorgeous fabric with exceptional craft and construction.

Matt: I picked up a Belstaff Roadmaster jacket about 10 years ago, before the brand was relaunched by Harry Slatkin. From fall to spring, it's a second skin. Lots of miles on this thing, and it just keeps getting better and better. ̶HS 72 MR | www.MRketplace.com

PHOTO BY COLIN CLARK

FALL/WINTER SPORTSWEAR COLLECTION

Ernest Sabine Ernest Alexander

Ernest Sabine was in business school, working in the ad world, when he founded his brand Ernest Alexander. Unable to find a bag that fit his needs, Sabine says he “put some sketches together, purchased some fabric from local vendors, and began wandering the garment district, knocking randomly on manufacturersʼ doors looking for someone to help me produce this vision for a messenger bag. From there, everything happened very organically; the assortment grew, I hired a team, and we built our website.” Now Ernest Alexander has become a full lifestyle collection with its own freestanding stores, wholesale accounts and a seasonal collaboration with Club Monaco.

On how to make business better: Exposure.

For the longest time, womenʼs fashion brands always received much more attention. Style authorities and media devoted little time to talking about menʼs designers, but now thereʼs a new breed of guys who are taking an interest in discovering brands and buying merchandise that fits their aesthetic. Even the growth of menswear bloggers has accelerated, making menʼs fashion and style a much more culturally relevant topic for guys. I do feel weʼve only scratched the surface of this industry, and the more exposure we continue to see in media can only help the menswear business continue.

On his style icons: There are always figures who inspire me when Iʼm sketching or creating a collection, but itʼs a mix of various stylish men of the past. I love old American literary figures and movie stars like Ernest Hemmingway, Gary Cooper and Jack Lemmon.

On his hobbies outside menswear: I love the outdoors: hiking, canoeing, skiing. Growing up in New England, I always had easy access to all these activities. Now living in NYC, itʼs a bit more difficult to find that “escape,” but I do it as often as I can.

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CASHMERE OVERCOAT CHELSEA BOOTS CLASSIC WATCH COLORED DENIM CUTAWAY COLLAR DENIM JACKET DOUBLE-BREASTED BLAZER DOWN LAYER DOWN VEST FISHERMAN BEANIE KNIT CARDIGAN KNIT TIE LEATHER GLOVES NAVY TUX RETRO SNEAKER SHEARLING COAT STACKED BRACELETS TOPCOAT TOTE BAG UNSTRUCTURED SOFTCOAT VELVET BLAZER WINTER BOOT WINTER COAT WOOL POCKET SQUARE WOOL SWEATPANTS

TRE

Stacked Bracelets Velvet Blazer

ND ESSENTIALS Since the launch of MR in the Ęź90s, trends like shell suits, shin-length shorts and wallet chains have all come, and thankfully gone. In honor of our 25th Anniversary, here are 25 must-have items for fall 2015.

By William Buckley

Chelsea Boots Wool Pocket Square www.MRketplace.com | MR 75

DoubleBreasted Blazer

Cashmere Overcoat

Classic Watch Shearling Coat

Winter Boot

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Down Layer

Winter Coat

Denim Jacket Unstructured Softcoat 78 MR | www.MRketplace.com

Navy Tux

Congratulations to

on being the leading authority of menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion for the past 25 years.

Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to much future success and publishing excellence.

Leather Gloves

Topcoat Colored Denim

Tote Bag Cutaway Collar Knit Tie 80 MR | www.MRketplace.com

Knit Cardigan

Down Vest

Wool Sweatpants Fisherman Beanie Retro Sneaker 82 MR | www.MRketplace.com

retail retrospective

25 YEARS OF

RETAIL GROWTH̶AND The last 25 years have been tumultuous for big apparel retailers, with major consolidation among department stores and the upward trajectory of discount and off-price on the one hand and luxury on the other̶with a bit less in the middle.

By Harry Sheff

T

he history of major American department store retailers in the last 25 years is very much the history of what is now Macyʼs. Itʼs a long, meandering tale and we all know how it ends: with dozens of regional nameplates being merged into one giant̶and for the most part dominant̶830-store omni-channel chain.

Along the way weʼve seen Walmart and Target using very different strategies to fight for the discount market. Two other very different approaches to retailing have recently combined in the merger of Menʼs Wearhouse and Jos. A. Bank. JCPenney seems to be slowly righting itself after a bold but ill-fated experiment in everyday low pricing. Nordstrom has maintained a reputation for excellent service while diversifying through acquisitions of Haute Look and Trunk Club, two business models that would barely be imaginable 25 years ago. Speaking of new business models, Amazon.com, which launched in 1995, did $75 billion in sales in 2013, up 22 percent from 2012. And finally, an American real estate mogul named Richard Baker created a Canadian-based retail empire when he realized that the Lord & Taylor chain he acquired for its land value was worth keeping for its retail potential, and then acquired Hudsonʼs Bay and Saks Fifth Avenue.

“The day of the merchant prince in retailing is rapidly drawing to a close.” ̶Louis W. Stern in 1992

THE END OF AN ERA: ED FINKELSTEIN AND THE OLD MACYʼS Former Macyʼs boss Ed Finkelstein, who died last June at the age of 89, brought it into the modern age with concepts like the brightly lit basement housewares department, re-introducing the Macyʼs 4th of July Fireworks show and launching private brands that are still important today, like Alfani, INC and Charter Club.

But Finkelsteinʼs glory days in the ʼ70s and ʼ80s waned when his push to acquire Federated failed. Instead, Macyʼs bought two of Federatedʼs chains̶I. Magnin and Bullockʼs̶in 1988 for $1.1 billion. In 1992, it was over. Macyʼs filed for bankruptcy protection and Finkelstein was forced to retire. “The day of the merchant prince in retailing is rapidly drawing to a close,” Northwestern University marketing professor Louis W. Stern told The New York Times.

THE PEAK OF DAYTON HUDSON AND THE BIRTH OF TARGET CORP. The Minneapolis-based department store chain Dayton Hudson led our March 1993 ranking of the top 50 retailers of menswear, with $2.55 billion in menʼs and boysʼ wear sales. In the early ʼ90s, Dayton Hudson was a powerful force in retailing: it included the Target discount chain (founded in 1962), Mervynʼs (acquired in 1978) and Marshall Fieldʼs (acquired in 1990). The companyʼs new trajectory was hinted at in 2000

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when it changed its name to Target Corp. A year later, in a move that Macyʼs would eventually duplicate, the company changed all of its Daytonʼs and Hudsonʼs store nameplates to Marshall Fieldʼs̶the chain in its portfolio with the highest national profile. In 2004, Target Corp. sold its 62 Marshall Fieldʼs stores in May Department Stores and its Mervynʼs stores to an investment group.

THE DAWN OF THE WALMART ERA In 1989, Walmartʼs profits rose nearly 30 percent to reach $1 billion for the first time. Sales for that year shot up 25 percent to more than $25 billion; it was now the largest retailer in the country by sales volume. In 1990, the Arkansas-based retailer began a big expansion that brought it nationwide, opening its first stores in California on the West Coast and Pennsylvania in the Northeast. By 1995 it had conquered the U.S. and expanded into Mexico and Canada.

CONSOLIDATION While independent retailers have feared national chains since the late-19th century and the arrival of the Sears and Montgomery Ward catalogs, Walmart was different. It grew by being the biggest store in small towns and gained a reputation for overwhelming local retailers. “Apparel store sales dropped fairly steadily in the Wal-Mart towns in the years following the opening of a Wal-Mart store, ending at 28 percent below the pre-Wal-Mart level after 10 years,” Iowa State University economics professor Kenneth Stone wrote in a widely cited 1997 study of the retailerʼs impact on rural Iowa.

MEGA MERCHANTS MRʼs ranking of the top 10 retailers of menʼs and boysʼ wear by sales volume in North America

MARCH 1993 Dayton Hudson JCPenney Walmart Sears Kmart Melville May Dept. Stores Gap Federated R.H. Macy & Co.

JUNE 1999

THE FEDERATED AND MAY MERGER In 2005, Federatedʼs 450 Macyʼs, Bloomingdaleʼs and co-branded Bon-Macyʼs, Burdines-Macyʼs, GoldsmithʼsMacyʼs, Lazarus-Macyʼs and Richʼs-Macyʼs stores merged with Mayʼs 491 stores under the Famous-Barr, Fileneʼs, Foleyʼs, Hechtʼs, Kaufmannʼs, Lord & Taylor, L.S. Ayres, Marshall Fieldʼs, Meier & Frank, Robinsons-May, Strawbridgeʼs and The Jones Store nameplates. The deal also included Mayʼs Davidʼs Bridal, 449 After Hours Formalwear and a few other businesses. The two companies were pretty evenly matched in terms of revenue̶Federated had annual sales of $15.6 billion to Mayʼs $14.4 billion̶although May operated in more of the country and had about 20,000 more employees.

“Today, we have taken the first step toward combining two of the best department store companies in America, creating a new retail company with truly national scope and presence,“ said Federated CEO Terry Lundgren at the time. The new company was now in 49 states, and the switch from almost two dozen local store names to all Macyʼs was swift.

How many more stores will the big chains have to close before the market reaches a balance?

THE NEXT 25 YEARS The future is uncertain. We know that in 2019, three major luxury retailers (two new to the New York market) will open new Manhattan flagships: Saks Fifth Avenue downtown, Nordstrom in Midtown and Neiman Marcus on the West Side Hudson Yards development. Several retailers, like Macyʼs and Bloomingdaleʼs, are looking beyond North America to places like Dubai and Abu Dabi. Many have been in China for years: Walmart has nearly 300 stores and Gap just celebrated its 100th. We know that major brick-and-mortar retailers are continuing to pursue an increasingly seamless blend of in-store and online sales. We know that the off-price market is evolving to a point where certain retailers known for luxury have off-price divisions that are outpacing their regular-price businesses.

But the outlook is hazy with a flurry of questions: will Amazon open brick-and-mortar stores? Can any American retailer thrive in Canada? (Or even survive̶now that Target is pulling out.) Will three-day shipping become free across the board, with same-day shipping as the new frontier? Is Uniqlo poised to become the next Gap in America? Will Gap and Banana Republic ever recover their former glory? Is the flash sale concept already finished? Will JCPenney only find success through a refusal to evolve? Will Sears and Kmart go the way of Montgomery Ward? How many more stores will the big chains have to close before the market reaches a balance? Youʼve got questions; MR will keep seeking answers.

Walmart JCPenney Dayton Hudson Gap Sears Federated T.J. Maxx May Dept. Stores Kmart Dillardʼs

JUNE 2005 Walmart Gap Federated JCPenney Target Corp.

TJX Companies Kohlʼs May Dept. Stores Sears Menʼs Wearhouse

FEBRUARY 2015 Walmart Target Macyʼs Gap Menʼs Wearhouse Kohlʼs TJX Nordstrom JCPenney Costco

www.MRketplace.com | MR 85

fashion

A RETROSPECTIVE Menswear trends may be longer-lived than their ephemeral female equivalents, but a look back through the last quarter century of MR fashion pages presents a successively nostalgic evolution.

CALIFORNIA DREAMING

CASUAL STATEMENT A move away from the dressedup sensibilities of the ʼ80s saw bright colors and bold silhouettes like overalls and cropped tops fueled by pop-culture influences like The Fresh Prince of Bel Air, Saved By the Bell and Beverly Hills 90210.

RAVE CULTURE The dawn of acid house music and the smiley badges and other related paraphernalia influenced mainstream fashion, with bright colors and psychedelic patterns on sportswear and denim taking center stage.

86 MR | www.MRketplace.com

1990 1995

The laid-back style of the West Coast encouraged a more relaxed attitude toward apparel in the earlyʼ90s. Keanu Reeves in Point Break exemplified an international surf culture movement, and his turn as Ted “Theodore” Logan in Bill and Tedʼs Excellent Adventure validated a growing trend towards a slack rebelliousness.

NEON EVERYTHING Menswear in the ʼ90s was all about color̶ pink, orange, yellow, red, the more fluorescent the better̶and while youth culture moved away from the conformity of the corporate suit, options in looser, more casual fits found favor.

BOY BAND BASICS Still with the loose fits, but manicured like a manufactured band should be, the pretty boy appearance of bands like Backstreet Boys, *NSYNC and 98 Degrees drove millions of teenage girls to distraction, and guys of all ages took notice.

BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY Led by the “boho chic” womenʼs wear movement championed by the likes of Kate Moss, Sienna Miller and even the Olsen Twins, the bohemian trend trickled into the menswear world.

1995 2000

LIKE TEEN SPIRIT The anti-establishment sentiments in the alternative music by the likes of Nirvana and Pearl Jam resonated in the anti-fashion of the era.

Anarchic attitudes were mirrored in the baggy, hyper-casual trends in grunge and skate fashion.

MILLENNIUM TECH As the end of 20th century approached, futuristic aspiration inspired designers. Innovations in fabric were embraced, with synthetic fabrics like metallics, and athletic influences.

www.MRketplace.com | MR 87

HIP HOP HOORAY

GLOBAL SPORTSWEAR Not activewear, but clothing for the active lifestyle, continued to permeate the menswear landscape.

Denim was more than ever part of a manʼs uniform, with jeans worn in casual and professional capacities. Indigo and Japanese selvedge saw a huge surge in popularity as men took denim increasingly more seriously.

While rock and pop bands dominated MTV in the ʻ80s, the ʼ90s saw an increasing shift towards hip hop videos by artists like Ice Cube, Snoop and Dr. Dre. Hip hop brands like Karl Kani, FUBU and Marc Ecko capitalized on the increased exposure of streetwear: graphic T-shirts, hoodies, puffer jackets and beanies.

2000 2005

UPSCALE URBAN While some hip hop artists wore the baggy jeans, bandanas and snapback caps synonymous with an emerging streetwear, others looked to the gangsters of the ʼ30s and ʻ40s, with bowler hats, silk shirts and suits.

88 MR | www.MRketplace.com

EUROPEAN DESIGNER Brands like Prada, Gucci and Hermès were the epitome of aspirational lifestyle, and expensive marketing campaigns secured that position. Brands like Burberry and Louis Vuitton suffered from major counterfeiting as the brands exceeded the reach of the everyman.

THE CLUB KIDS

2005 2010

As DJs achieved celebrity status, a new kind of club kid trend emerged. A certain glamour in tailored clothing and sportswear, paired with Tshirts and sneakers in a studied nonchalance.

HIPSTERVILLE Super-skinny jeans, flannel shirts, graphic T-shirts, leather jackets and an abundance of accessories, the newly independent millennial appeared in lower-priced urban enclaves, setting trends that resulted in stores like Urban Outfitters and American Apparel, and single-handedly turned thrift shops into “vintage” stores.

THE NEW DANDY As trimmer fits and menswear flair rediscovered their place in fashion, long forgotten acoutrements like bow ties and pocket squares found a new lease on life. www.MRketplace.com | MR 89

BORN IN THE USA As the effects of the recession settled in, America took an introspective approach to fashion. Heritage brands like Pendleton and Woolrich surged in popularity as the consumer sought to support the domestic economy and his countrymen.

2010 2015

ULTRA LUXE While so many facets of the industry suffered, the luxury market didnʼt slow down. In a defiant show of ostentation, the luxury fashion houses produced some of the most expensive collections menswear had seen in years.

SOFTLY DOES IT

ATHLUXURY The influence of a more lifestyle-driven consumer saw the blurring of athletic and performance wear within luxury and sportswear brands. Technical applications and functionality continue to fuse with upscale tailoring.

90 MR | www.MRketplace.com

With the increased demand for functionality comes a burgeoning market for clothing that can work seven days a week. Soft tailoring, deconstructed jackets and knitwear are gaining ground as tailored rigidity takes itself less seriously.

REFLECTING ON 25YEARS. LOOKING AHEAD 25YEARS. MARCH 2015

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The Schmoozing Years

Were you there? Check out our sampling of Schmoozing photos from the past pages of MR and MRketplace.com

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www.MRketplace.com | MR 93

schmooze

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www.MRketplace.com | MR 101

schmooze

102 MR | www.MRketplace.com

www.mrketshow.com

#mrketshow

104

105

BRANDS EUROPERFUMES

BEY-BERK INTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;L GRUPPO BRAVO

KENNETH COLE COATS & RAINWEAR

LORENZONI

BOSTON HARBOUR

SANSABELT

106 The Brands @ MRketLV

F/W ‘15 GIMO’S

EMANUEL UNGARO OUTERWEAR

MICHAEL KORS

SEAN JOHN

CALVIN KLEIN

BRESCIANI UNDERWEAR

PERU UNLIMITED

RAFFI LINEA UOMO

The Brands @ MRketLV 107

BRANDS GOLDEN BEAR SPORTSWEAR

LAUREN RALPH LAUREN

BONSOIR

JONES NEW YORK

PEERLESS BOYS

BARONI COUTURE / PRIVE / MAXDAVOLI / TREND

KROON

BULGARINI

108 The Brands @ MRketLV

F/W â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;15 STETSON HATS

STENSTROMS

MONTECHIARO

SEBASTIEN JAMES COLLECTION

MAC

ANDREW MARC CLOTHING

CALIBAN

The Brands @ MRketLV 109

BRANDS DANIEL HECHTER

DKNY

BOSTON TRADERS

CARL GROSS

MONTECHIARO

MATTARAZI UOMO, INC.

KUEHNERT INC.

110 The Brands @ MRketLV

F/W â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;15 BEGG & CO.

ITALO FERRETTI

G. MANZONI / ALPETORA

NATURAL BASIX

GRAN SASSO

TOMMY HILFIGER

BILL BLASS

BURMA BIBAS

The Brands @ MRketLV 111

BRANDS S. COHEN INC.

HARLEY

HILTL

ITAL WEAR ANDREA BOSSI

BLUE

DI BELLO BY NIPAL

BRYANT PARK NEW YORK

LONE PINE LEATHERS

112 The Brands @ MRketLV

F/W ‘15 LEJON

THADDEUS

SANYO

IMPULSO

LENOR ROMANO

IRELAND’S EYE

BARBOUR CLASSIC

The Brands @ MRketLV 113

BRANDS FLY BELT

CIRCA WATCH COMPANY

MADISON CREEK OUTFITTERS

ALBERTO

ANDREW FEZZA

SCOTT NICHOL

TAMPA FUEGO

114 The Brands @ MRketLV

F/W â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;15 ANDREW-J SHIRTS

TAGIO

RICHARD JAMES ALLEN EDMONDS

BILLS KHAKIS

THE BRITISH BELT COMPANY

WIGENS

MARCO VALENTINO

The Brands @ MRketLV 115

BRANDS PERUVIANNI

DENTS HERITAGE COLLECTION

MISSANI LE COLLEZIONI

LEONARDO VALENTI / VERONESI

CEREUS

LEFT COAST TEE

DONALD J. TRUMP

CARRELI

ISAAC MIZRAHI LEATHER GOODS

116 The Brands @ MRketLV

F/W â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;15 PANTHERELLA

DOLCEPUNTA

GARDEUR

HERON HABERDASHERY

FORSYTH OF CANADA CORGI

SIGNUM

The Brands @ MRketLV 117

BRANDS XACUS

TORI RICHARD, LTD.

LUCHIANO VISCONTI

SOUTHERN TIDE

SCOTT & CHARTERS

REMO TULLIANI

118 The Brands @ MRketLV

SERICA

F/W â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;15 GIONFRIDDO

BLUE LION APPAREL

MASSIMILIANO STANCO

NIKKY

RICHMART

ROOSTER NECKWEAR

DIMENSIONS BY WCM

CARNOUSTIE SPORTSWEAR

The Brands @ MRketLV 119

BRANDS GLOBAL MINT

DUNCAN WALTON

CAMPIA

LIPSON SHIRTMAKERS

DAVID SMITH AUSTRALIA

LUCIANO MORESCO

HALLMARK NECKWEAR

120 The Brands @ MRketLV

MMG

F/W â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;15 PVH DRESS FURNISHINGS GROUP

HAUPT

STEVE HARVEY NECKWEAR

HAGGAR NECKWEAR

ST. CROIX AND HERITAGE

BY ST. CROIX

PACIFIC SILK

KEEPERS INTERNATIONAL

CHELSEY IMPORTS

The Brands @ MRketLV 121

AGE OF WISDOM

ALAN PAINE KNITWEAR

t

ANDREW FEZZA SHIRTS & NECKWEAR

ALBERTO

t

ALEX CANNON

t

ANDREW MARC CLOTHING

t

t

ALLEN EDMONDS

ANDREW-J SHIRTS

t

t

AMERICAN ESSENTIALS

t

ARISTO 18

t

ANDREW FEZZA

ASTON LEATHER

t

AVANTI

t

AVENTURA CLOTHING t BARBOUR CLASSIC t BARONI COUTURE/PRIVE/MAXDAVOLI/TREND t BASIC OPTIONS t BEGG & CO. t BEN SHERMAN BERETTA USA

t

BLANQAZUL

BLUE

t

BERMUDA STYLES

BLUE LION APPAREL

t

BRESCIANI UNDERWEAR t

CAMPIA

t

BREUER SAS

t

BRYANT PARK NEW YORK CLOTHING

BEY-BERK INT’L

t

t

BOGOSSE

t

t

BILL BLASS

t

BONSOIR

t

t

BILLS KHAKIS

BOSTON HARBOUR

t

THE BRITISH APPAREL COLLECTION LTD.

t

BUGATCHI UOMO

CANALETTO

BIELLA

t

BULGARINI

t

CARIBBEAN JOE

t

BURMA BIBAS

CARL GROSS

t

t

t

t

BILLY LONDON

t

THE BIRD DOG GROUP

BOSTON TRADERS

t

BRANDOLINI

t

THE BRITISH BELT COMPANY

CABANO NEW CANADIAN

t

CARNOUSTIE SPORTSWEAR

t

t

IMPORTS t CHRISTOPHER LENA t CIRCA WATCH COMPANY t CODICE t CODIS MAYA t COLLECTION LA MARQUE MCCOY

t

COOPER & STEWART

t

DAMON

t

DANIEL HECHTER

t

DAVID SMITH AUSTRALIA

DION

DKNY

t

DOLCEPUNTA

t

DOCKERS

t

CORGI

DYLAN DEVELOPED BY TRUE GRIT

t

COTTON BROTHERS

t

ECCO

t

t

EDWARD ARMAH

t

t

CRIQUET

DENTS HERITAGE COLLECTION

t

DONA DONA NECKWEAR

ECOTHS

t

COTTON REEL

t

t

t

EGARD

t

CHELSEY

t

COMPONENTS BY JOHN

CULTURA t

t

CUTTER & BUCK

DIMENSIONS BY WCM

DORFMAN PACIFIC

t

ELIE TAHARI

t

t

DI BELLO BY NIPAL

DONALD J. TRUMP t

CUBAVERA

t

CALVIN KLEIN

t

CEREUS

t

BRASS

BRUNO MARCHESI

t

CALIBAN

CARRELI

t

t

DUNCAN WALTON

EMANUEL UNGARO OUTERWEAR

EMPIRE CLOTHING t ENGLISH LAUNDRY t ENGLISH UTOPIA t ENRO t ENZONE FASHIONS t EQUILIBRIO t EURO FASHIONS/CHIARI/EMILIO YUSTE/ITALUOMO BELT

t

FLYNT

GROUP INC.

t

t

EUROPEAN FASHION GROUP

FORSYTH OF CANADA

GEOFF NICHOLSON

t

t

GITMAN BROS

t

NECKWEAR

HALLMARK NECKWEAR

t

GTA

t

HILTL

INTERNATIONAL LAUNDRY

t

ITALWEAR/ANDREA BOSSI

t

JAMES CAMPBELL

122 The Brands @ MRketLV

t

t

THE FRAGRANCE GROUP

GEOFFREY BEENE

GLADSON LTD.

t

HERON HABERDASHERY

t

EUROPERFUMES

t

t

t

GLOBAL MINT

HALSEY

HORN LEGEND

INTRADECO

t

t

t

JAMES CAMPBELL SOCKS

t

FABIO FAZIO NECKWEAR

FREDRICK MARTIN

t

t

FEDON

t

t

GIANNI MARCELO

GOLDEN BEAR SPORTSWEAR

t

GRAN SASSO

t

t

HARBOUR INTERNATIONAL LLC

t

IBIZA

t

IDESIGN APPAREL t

J.M. DICKENS

ISAAC MIZRAHI t

t t

t

HARLEY

IKE BEHAR

t t

HAUPT

t

t

t

t

GARDEUR

GIMO’S

t

t

t

t

t

FLY

GARMENT

GIONFRIDDO

t

GRUPPO BRAVO

t

HENRY GRETHEL SIGNATURE

ISAAC MIZRAHI LEATHER GOODS

JAY & LEONARD

FLORSHEIM

IMM NECKWEAR/VIV SHIRTS

J.S. BLANK & CO/BARBARA BLANK

JAMES TATTERSALL

FER

G. MANZONI/ALPETORA

GEOFFREY BEENE SLEEPWEAR

IRELAND’S EYE

IZOD SLEEPWEAR

t

t

t

JACK OF SPADES

t

t

HAGGAR IMPULSO

ITALO FERRETTI t

JACK VICTOR

JIMMY SALES NECKWEAR/BRUNO PIATTELLI

JOCKEY

t

JOHNNIE O

INTERNATIONAL KUHL

t

SHIRTMAKERS

JOHNSTON & MURPHY

KENNETH COLE CLOTHING

t

LANIER

t

t

LAUREN RALPH LAUREN

LONDON FOG

t

JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN

LEFT COAST TEE

LONE PINE LEATHERS

t

t

JONES NEW YORK

KENNETH COLE COATS & RAINWEAR

t t

t

t

LEJON

LORENZONI

t

t

KINROSS CASHMERE

t

LENOR ROMANO

t

KAHALA SPORTSWEAR

t

t

KROON

t

KEEPERS

t

KUEHNERT INC.

t

LEONARDO VALENTI/VERONESI

LOUDMOUTH GOLF NECKWEAR

LIPSON

t

LUCHIANO VISCONTI t LUCHIANO

t

VISCONTI BLACK t LUCIANO BARDELLI t LUCIANO CARRELI t LUCIANO GATTI t LUCIANO MORESCO t MAC t MADISON CREEK OUTFITTERS MAKER AND COMPANY

t

MANTONI

t

MATTARAZI UOMO, INC.

t

M-CLIP

MICHAEL & DAVID

t

MARCELLO SPORT

MARCO VALENTINO

t

MICHAEL KORS

t

t

MARCRAFT

t

MASONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

t

MILLER PERFORMANCE

MASSIMILIANO STANCO

t

MISSANI LE COLLEZIONI

t

t

MMG

MODENA t MONTECHIARO t MOVIMENTO t NAT NAST LUXURY ORIGINALS t NATURAL BASIX t NIKKY t OLEG CASSINI t ORIGINAL PENGUIN HOSIERY

OVERTON

t

PEACOCK APPAREL PERUVIANNI SHIRTINGS

PACIFIC SILK

PEERLESS BOYS

PARABOOT

t

PARK WEST

PEERLESS CLOTHING USA, INC.

t

PER PEDES

t t

PANTHERELLA

PETER BARTON/THE DUNLAP WEAVERS

t

t

t

t

PULL-IN

t

PUNTO

RICHARD JAMES

t

WEAR MFG. CO.

t

SAINT JAMES

SANSABELT

t

RICHMART

t

t

t t

PATRICK ASSARAF

t

POLIFRONI MILANO

PVH DRESS FURNISHINGS GROUP

t

QUIETI

RIVIERA RED t

t

RIZZI

t

t

ROAD

ROMA INDUSTRIES

SANYO t THE SAVILLE ROW CO.

t

PORTO BESPOKE

RAFFI LINEA UOMO

t

t

REMO TULLIANI

t

ROBERT GRAHAM HOSIERY

ROOSTER NECKWEAR

t

ROSS GRAISON

t

SCHUYLER 4 LTD.

t

SCOJO NEW YORK

t

PERU UNLIMITED

t

PORTO EDGE

ROBERT BARAKETT

t

t

t

PAUL BETENLY CLOTHING

t

PERRY ELLIS INTERNATIONAL

PETROCELLI

ROFFE ACCESSORIES t

t

t

PROPER

REMY LEATHER

t

ROCKMOUNT RANCH

RYAN MICHAEL t

t

t

S. COHEN INC.

SCOTT & CHARTERS

t

SCOTT

NICHOL t SCULLY/HIDESIGN t SEAN JOHN t SEBASTIEN JAMES COLLECTION t SERICA t SIGNUM t SMATHERS AND BRANSON t SOUTHERN PROPER

t

NECKWEAR

SOUTHERN TIDE t ST. CROIX AND HERITAGE BY ST. CROIX t

STEVEN LAND

TAMPA FUEGO

t

TIGLIO ROSSO

t

t

SUSAN G. KOMEN NECKWEAR

TATEOSSIAN LTD. t THADDEUS TOMMY BAHAMA

t

t

t

t

TAGIO

STACY ADAMS t

THOMAS HANCOCK VA

TOMMY BAHAMA HEADWEAR

t

TAHARI t

t

t

STENSTROMS

TAILORBYRD

THOMPSON

t

t

t

STETSON HATS

TALAZZI

TIGER MOUNTAIN

TOMMY BAHAMA LEATHER GOODS

t

t

t

t

STEVE HARVEY

TALLIA ORANGE HOSIERY

TIGLIO INC.

TOMMY HILFIGER

t

t

TIGLIO LUXE

TORI RICHARD,

LTD. t TORINO t TORRAS t TOSCANO AQUA t TRAFALGAR t TRUE GRIT t TRYBUS t VAN HEWSEN t VANNUCCI t VINTAGE WEATHERPROOF VINTAGE ITALIA t WEATHERPROOF ZANELLA

t

t

WEATHERPROOF WOMENS

t

WIGENS

t

WINDSOR COLLECTION

t

XACUS SRL

t

XMI

t

YOU + SHIRT

ZANETTI Company names listed are accurate as of printing, but do not reflect our final list of exhibitors.

The Brands @ MRketLV 123

TOP TALENT

Topman creative director Gordon Richardson on the growing interest in menswear and fostering emerging design talent. By William Buckley

F

ifteen years ago when Gordon Richardson began his tenure at Arcadia Groupʼs Topman, the British High Street store wasnʼt much more than that. Now, with over 175 stores in 24 countries and groundbreaking initiatives that support new menswear designers and the British fashion industry, Topmanʼs creative director has become one of the most influential people in the industry.

“In newspapers, magazines, online, it was always predominately womenʼs wear, and of course it still is, but now menswear can be seen in the same light.”

124 MR | www.MRketplace.com

Ten years ago there wasnʼt much buzz about British menswear designers, in stark contrast to the plethora of designers gaining global attention over the last couple of years. Whatʼs changed?

Ten years ago there were random names, some excitement, designers like Kim Jones were coming up through the ranks, but in general, apart from menʼs fashion magazines there were very few people actually talking about menswear. In newspapers, magazines, online, it was always predominately womenʼs wear, and of course it still is, but now menswear can be seen in the same light; if thereʼs something noteworthy in menswear it does get written about. So the fact that itʼs being written about, talked about, has set up this whole whirlwind of interest in it. It canʼt just happen in an underground way, it has to have exposure.

Through Topmanʼs initiatives like MAN with Fashion East, and NewGen with the British Fashion Council, you seem to be spearheading that exposure.

Weʼre very lucky in menswear, because the whole industryʼs like a family. We want people to do well, so weʼre looking at these young emerging designers and talking and discussing how we can best sponsor and nurture them. Topman is at the forefront of putting the finance behind a lot of that, but itʼs so much more than a financial thing. We actually have an interest in those designers, both because of their talent, but also because itʼs self-perpetuating. It grows the menswear business. But all weʼve really done is create the platform.

Itʼs really the designers coming out of our college systems, and we have the most amazing educational system. I donʼt imagine that will ever dry up, but now the difficulty is who do we choose, and fortunately we have a panel of insiders in the industry who come together to actually critique and judge who we think should be part of these initiatives. Also you get great buyers in the mix, we have the big retailers all buying into it, supporting the industry. They could just bring in the Italian designers, American designers, designers they know sell well, but they throw these young British designers into the mix and thatʼs a wonderful thing.

It sounds like menswearʼs taking over. Could Topman ever do bigger business than Topshop?

Haha, probably not anytime soon, but certainly weʼre seeing a shift in the ratios. There is a growing demand for menʼs fashion; men are increasingly more competent, and I think thatʼs largely due to media: magazines, websites. The word “education” sounds so patronizing, but men are much more educated about menswear than theyʼve ever been, and I think itʼs important to always continue to raise awareness. We have to show guys that there are a million ways to wear clothes and great choices of clothes across price points, across fashion, across style, and now more than ever, theyʼre getting it.

MR FEBRUARY 2015 ■ VOL. 26 NO. 2 ■ THE MAGAZINE OF MENSWEAR RETAILING

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