MR January 2018 by MR Magazine

JANUARY 2018

NEW YORK SHOW PREVIEW

THE ISSUE

FEBRUARY 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;14, 2018 SOURCING AT MAGIC OPENS FEB 11 LAS VEGAS & MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTERS

WHERE SPECTACULAR HAPPENS

NY MEN’S

JANUARY 21 –23, 2018 PROJECT | MRKET

MAGIC LAS VEGAS FEBRUARY 12–14, 2018

PROJECT | THE TENTS | FN PLATFORM

INSIDE MR

14 STYLING THE FUTURE Menswear forecasters debate how to predict fashion in the age of social media.

28 STAND UP IN STYLE As sock departments are saturated with wild and crazy novelties, retailers are looking for new avenues of growth.

20 PAUL STUART: 33 STYLE SETTERS STYLISH MR sits down with STORE 13 men who are as The iconic 80-year-old luxury retailer is making some changes, both cosmetic and strategic.

comfortable in their own clothes as they are in their own skin.

24 STREET STYLE Four experts share their insights into what makes a brand cool in 2018.

COVER: PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOSHUA WOODS. GROOMING BY ARYA RED

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

DEPARTMENTS 6 8 10 12 30 76

Masthead Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Letter Ones to Watch Scene Trends End Page: What Is Style?

EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MANAGING EDITOR CREATIVE DIRECTOR WEB EDITOR

KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN (212) 600-3201 KAREN.GROSSMAN@UBM.COM BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON (212) 600-3375 BRIAN.LIPTON@UBM.COM HANS GSCHLIESSER (203) 523-7096 HANS.GSCHLIESSER@UBM.COM STEPHEN GARNER (212) 600-3350 STEPHEN.GARNER@UBM.COM

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MICHAEL ALIC MICHAEL.ALIC@UBM.COM

MEN’S FASHION DIRECTOR

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FASHION EVENTS MRKET/PROJECT NY JANUARY 21-23 — JACOB JAVITS CENTER, NEW YORK, NY MAGIC/PROJECT LV/FN PLATFORM FEBRUARY 12-14 — MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTER, LAS VEGAS, NV

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{ EDITORIAL }

WHY STYLE MATTERS How our industry helps create happier people and a better world. IN THIS, MR’S FIRST EVER STYLE ISSUE, we tackle a few essential industry issues. What is style in 2018? Who’s got it and why do we think so? What makes a brand cool and what happens to its cool factor once it’s broadly distributed and/or overly discounted? In this precarious era of disruption, discord and volatility—in fashion, retail and politics—how can forecasters accurately predict trends? What are the key trends for fall ‘18 and beyond? How can iconic/heritage brands reinvent themselves and how can emerging brands get noticed on an increasingly cluttered internet? And in a world where disasters, both natural and manmade, are daily occurrences, how important are clothes really? Of course, our answer to the last question is VERY. In fact, after 28 years of analyzing men’s fashion, we believe that fashion today is more relevant, and certainly more exciting, than ever. Consider age-old adages that still ring true: What’s outside reflects what’s inside. We have only one chance to make a first impression. Clothes provide a daily opportunity to reinvent ourselves. Clothes can elevate mood or change it entirely. Shifts in fashion reflect social, political and economic changes in the world. Clothes make the man. Fashion is fun! Consider too the more recent cultural and technological changes impacting the fashion world. With less restrictive dress codes, fashion has become increasingly eclectic and personal, rather than dictatorial. Creativity abounds, with new gender fluidity, unexpected brand collaborations and diverse ethnic influences all impacting men’s fashion. Ever-evolving technical fabrics and features have led to clothing that performs as well as decorates. The proliferation of online options makes shopping virtually effortless, a shift that should ultimately increase sales. And the growing number of brands and stores giving back, be it through fundraising events, charity tie-ins, cause marketing, ethical sourcing, sustainability, etc., reflects the extent to which our industry cares about creating a better world. (Of course, giving back these days is also good business!) On a personal note, I’m so proud to be part of an industry that believes in people as well as profits and I can’t wait to see what the new year has in store. Among the much-anticipated innovations, expect to see some exciting changes at Project/MRket at the Javits Center on January 21-23. According to UBM fashion director Tommy Fazio, the show floor will be more focused and compelling than ever, with an unprecedented emphasis on trend direction (styled by Matthew Marden from Esquire). “We’re merchandising the show the way retailers want to shop, calling out what’s new and ensuring each area is well defined and inspirational,” says Fazio. With thanks to our loyal readers and friends for your inspiration over the years, we at MR wish you a joyful, peaceful and STYLISH 2018!

Creativity abounds, with new gender fluidity, unexpected brand collaborations and diverse ethnic influences all impacting men’s fashion.”

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

See us at: NY Shows - Park Lane Hotel and MRket Javits | LA Trend | Charlotte Show | Chicago Collective | Quest/Agenda Vegas

Jim McKenry, 804.417.7170 office | 888.623.5812 fax | jim@alanpaineusa.com Alan Paine Knitwear Ltd, 4A Hamilton Way, Oakham Business Park, MansďŹ eld, Notts, England NG18 5BU +44 (0) 1623 415760, www.alanpaine.co.uk

{ ONES { CLOTHING } } TO WATCH

French Dressing M.X. PARIS

After graduating from the prestigious Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, Maxime Simoens pursued his fashion career with Parisian haute couture houses Jean-Paul Gaultier, Elie Saab, Christian Dior, and Balenciaga. But after striking out on his own in 2009, Simoens quickly began to make a name for himself in the luxury women’s market with his signature use of architectural silhouettes, structured cuts, embroideries and prints which became his recognizable signature. In 2016, Simoens launched his first men’s collection under the label M.X Paris. He set out to create a line for the urban modern man with the main credo of pieces that remain wearable and accessible while being cleverly designed. Expect to find timeless pieces mixed with sporty and contemporary items to create a modern wardrobe for a man who doesn’t subscribe to conservative dress codes. Season after season, sportswear inspirations remain at the core of the collection, with items like knits, polos and joggers standing out as top sellers. Formalwear is also included in the line but with a sportier interpretation of the traditional tailored styles. But look for the use of prints in the collection that lend a graphic and architectural element to the line. (Retails approximately range from $130 to $850). Look for M.X Paris in The Tents section of Project New York. – SG

Timeless pieces mix with sporty and contemporary items to create a modern wardrobe for a man who doesn’t subscribe to conservative dress codes.

Pocket Change A STYLISH WAY OF LIFE

A new luxury brand of handmade pocket squares might not seem newsworthy, so why has James A. Williams’ new line of these accessories, cleverly dubbed A Stylish Way of Life, been generating so much traction in the retail market? First, because they can be completely customizable per the customer’s request. “What really sets the brand apart from our competition is the fact that buyers have the opportunity to design and create their own collection of pocket squares that will work with the range of menswear they carry in their store,” says Williams. “We do not offer a set collection; instead, the design elements of each collection is completely determined by the buyer.” Secondly, Williams’ brand currently uses top-notch fabrics such as imported wool, linen and cashmere that pair well with old-world tailoring and craftsmanship. For the upcoming season, expect to find new linen, wool, and cashmere fabrics, new embroidery yarn colors, and an expanded line of accessories. “We will be launching our new line of Italian hand-made cashmere twill scarves that will be offered in eight colors,” adds Williams. “Also look out for our new Italian linen neckties.” A Stylish Way of Life’s pocket squares retail between $85 and $160 (depending on fabric) and can be found at specialty retailers such as Rubensteins in New Orleans, Gino Marco in Baltimore, Oak Hall in Memphis and Bruce Julian in Charlotte. – SG

Top-notch fabrics such as imported wool, linen and cashmere pair well with old-world tailoring and craftsmanship.

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

{ ONES { CLOTHING TO WATCH} }

Although French sportswear brand Serge Blanco has been dressing men in Europe for almost 25 years, the brand is only entering into its third season here in the United States. Having most recently hosted a two month pop-up at New York City men’s specialty store Rothmans, the brand is eager to grow its footprint in the States as a total lifestyle collection. Inspired by the famed rugby player Serge Blanco, the brand is most known for its polos and woven shirts but also comprises a full style collection for the modern man. Crafted with interesting fabrics and prints, all the pieces in the collection embody the evolution of the brand from its original rugby-inspired DNA to its new redefined sportswear. “Serge Blanco is known for its use of exclusive fabrics from Italy,” says brand manager Costantino Costa. “We have incredible shirts that feature Liberty of London prints and trousers made from luxurious Albini fabrics. Serge Blanco is a contemporary, but easy-to-wear collection that caters to guys in a wide range of sizes from XS to 6XL. We believe everyone should have access to our clothing.” While its first shop was in the suburbs of Toulouse, France, Serge Blanco now has almost 70 mono-brand stores in France, and is sold in hundreds of multi-brand stores worldwide including Henry & Company in Provincetown, MA and Pockets in Dallas, TX. Look for Serge Blanco at Project NY. – SG

Incredible shirts that feature Liberty of London prints and trousers made from luxurious Albini fabrics.

On the Serge SERGE BLANCO

Light as Leather WERNER CHRIST

While luxury leatherwear brand Werner Christ is exhibiting in the United States for the first time — at the new Foundry section of Project New York — the 53year-old German company is widely known worldwide for producing soft leather and suede jackets. A highlight from the collection, which retails anywhere from $750 to $3,000, includes the best-selling Dietmar model, which is a modern, slim-cut suede and lambskin coat. Also look out for the Marek nappa lambskin bomber jacket and the ultra-masculine Jimmy lambskin fur-lined topcoat. One reason the company is coming stateside to show its goods is because it’s looking to partner with upscale men’s specialty stores that appreciate the heritage and quality of the line. “The brand has achieved a healthy distribution in Europe, and we are looking to continue this progress in the U.S.,” says Giancarlo Ferrari of GC Fashion Group, the firm representing the brand in the Americas. “Werner Christ has a great story to tell and I believe the American buyers will love the product.” The brand can currently be found in Harry Rosen in Canada, Lodenfrey in Germany, and seven Werner Christ mono-brand stores within Germany. – SG

“Werner Christ has a great story to tell and I believe the American buyers will love the product.” MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2018 MR

{ SCENE }

COME SEA ABOUT ME

In the depths of a New York City winter, indulging in sumptuous seafood specialties in spectacular settings can make you feel like it’s summer outside! BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

Are you on a seafood diet (and not just a see food diet?). We’ve found the best places! 4.

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

SCOTT FRANCES

1. SPRING & VARICK This appealing new venture from Chef John Creger boasts an art deco-meets modern décor vibe, including the display of works from local artists, intricately designed floral arrangements, and specially crafted tableware from ceramic artist Wynne Noble. Seafood lovers will delight in such delectable selections as charred octopus, tuna tartar, squid ink linguini with king crab, black garlic salmon, and scallops served alongside parsnip puree, braised endive and a quinoa salad. Put this one on your list! (246 Spring Street. 212-842-4500). 2. THE LOBSTER CLUB Peter Marino, the superstar architect known to fashionistas for designing stores for Chanel, Ermenegildo Zegna and Giorgio Armani, has taken his inspiration from Mies van de Rohe for this stunning new space. Despite the name, the emphasis here is on Michelin-starred chef Tasuku Murakami’s supernal sushi, which is augmented by his singular takes on such classic Japanese dishes like tempura, gyoza, yakitori and teppanyaki. Come join the club! (98 East 53rd Street. 212-375-9001). 3. THE POOL This immaculately redone version of the Four Season’s famed Pool Room proves to be the ideal setting for a wintertime splurge. Jump in and indulge in luscious specialty cocktails, sensational raw bar items, spectacular entrees like French Turbot, White Tuna, and Whole Black Bass, along with a new generation of surf and turf plates such as lamb/scallop and duckling/crab. And they’re all served by captains in fashion legend’s Tom Ford uniforms, which were designed specifically for the restaurant. (99 East 52nd Street. 212-375-9001). 4. LEGASEA This enticing seafood brasserie at the recently opened Moxy Times Square Hotel, the newest eatery from the ultra-hip Tao Group, updates the classic seafood dining experience by offering local, sustainable dishes all served in a modern and vivacious setting. Chef Jason Hall takes his culinary inspiration from around the globe with bold, yet approachable, interpretations of classic dishes, such as his Spicy Crab Beignets, Baked Clams Barcelona, Flounder Francaise, and the mouthwatering Alaskan King Crab Boil (which is shareable for the table). Non-seafood lovers are not ignored, thanks to offerings such as Honeynut Squash Tempura, a wide variety of salads, and entrees including the Heritage Pork Chop Schnitzel and the Double Bar Burger. (485 7th Avenue. 212-268-1888).

{ SCENE }

TIME TO CHILL!

The best of all possible things to do and see during a winter’s visit to the Big Apple. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

EASY AS PIE Comfort food isn’t just found in local eateries. At the Brooks Atkinson Theatre, there’s warm, cinnamony apple pie for sale as part of the award-winning musical “Waitress,” the consistently engaging tale of Jenna, an expert pie maker in a small town, who discovers a local doctor (currently played by Jason Mraz) and a nearby pie-making contest may get her out of her loveless marriage. Starting on January 16, the show’s Grammy-winning composer Sara Bareilles returns to the lead role for a six-week run! Talk about having all the right ingredients! (256 West 47th Street. 877-250-2929).

You won’t feel the cold once you warm up inside these exciting attractions! 1.

SOMETHING TO SEA National Geographic Encounter’s “Ocean Odyssey”, a remarkable immersive entertainment experience, transports audiences on a breathtaking undersea journey. Using ground-breaking technology, audiences can go on a digital “underwater” dive and come face-toface with life-sized photo-real versions of some of the largest and most interesting creatures of the sea. They can also listen to sounds of the animals they have encountered along the way and even enjoy a gaming challenge to clean up their own piece of the ocean. All aboard! (226 West 44th Street. 646-308-1337). THE STORY OF LENNY Composer, conductor, educator, humanitarian: few Americans have made a greater contribution to popular culture than the late Leonard Bernstein. Don’t believe me: Just visit “Leonard Bernstein at 100,” which has arrived at the New York Public Library for the Performing Arts. This landmark exhibition features over 150 photographs, personal items, papers, scores, correspondence, costumes, furniture and film clips, a listening bar which will enable visitors to explore some of Bernstein's most noted works and even a vocal booth that gives visitors the chance to sing lead in “West Side Story.” (40 Lincoln Center Plaza. 212-870-1630). THE MOD SQUAD A win-win for those who survived (but may not remember) the turbulent 1960s, as well as those who weren’t yet born, the Museum of the City of New York’s “Mod New York: Fashion Takes a Trip” explores the various fashion movements of this iconic period. Also on view are the era’s cultural trends, including “Beatlemania” and “Op Art,” along with drawings by Anna Mara Magagna, and photographs by Kwame Brathwaite and more. Can you dig it? (1220 Fifth Avenue. 212-534-1672).

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2018 MR

{ RETAIL PANEL }

Styling

THE FUTURE

Men’s fashion forecasters debate how to predict fashion in an era of social media.

PHOTO BY JERRY SPEIER

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

In collaboration with FIT, MR recently hosted a panel of men’s fashion experts to discuss trend forecasting in 2018. In our social media-driven era, how do retailers project fashion and how can emerging designers get a foot in the door? Thanks to our retail panel and the enthusiastic staff and students from FIT’s menswear design program.

Trends once trickled down from high to low, then street style elevated trends from low to high. How does one forecast men’s fashion in 2018? TIM BESS, MEN’S FASHION TREND ANALYST, DONEGER GROUP: In retrospect, the olden days were easy: designers and big brands called the shots. These days, you have to look everywhere to find the trends. But if you have a sense of what’s next, you’ll see it everywhere. I try to project early but I often advise my clients to think about it now but implement it later. A good example is the slouchy fit. You have to know when not to push a trend. KEVIN HARTER, GROUP VP OF INTEGRATED

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

MARKETING, BLOOMINGDALE’S: Trend is a strange word for us now. These days, we don’t tell customers what’s cool, they tell us. For the past year and a half, we no longer do trend reports, we do style reports. Now, based on social media influencers, we look to balance it out. We like to tell our customers—young and old—how to get the look but switch it up. That’s what resonates. Trends are still part of our business: ‘camo is the new black’ was recently featured in our windows and we sold about $2 million worth of camo. But we told our story in a different way, as a part of an overall style, not as a separate trend. MICHAEL MACKO, FASHION PRODUCER/CONSULTANT: Men are different than women. Women change their look every six months. Men move

{ RETAIL PANEL } more slowly; they always look for the same things. The goal for the men’s industry is to do basics in a new way: camo in black and grey rather than green. Find something that men understand and tweak it. Men feel more comfortable staying in their comfort zone. Also, trends have bell curves: you have to know when to get out. Although it’s important to show new looks for the cool kids and early adapters, most men want to wait until they see their friends wearing it. So menswear retailers can stay with a look for a couple of seasons. KEN GIDDON, CO-OWNER, ROTHMANS NY: Social media has changed the game. Someone can come up with a great social idea or a cause and that becomes a fashion trend. Tuned-in retailers don’t need forecasts: we go to trade shows; we see patterns. We need to be observers, and plugged into social media. At our store, we’re pretty good at observing: we’re not the fastest out there but we know our customer. It took the

a classic brand; then Drake wore it in a video and we started buying it more fleece and now we can’t keep it in stock. So it’s largely about storytelling. Our challenge is how do we get the message out, how do we make it fun, what are we doing to drive customers into the store? But the good news is that a lot more is working than not. TIM: We get great specific feedback from our stores. Hot items this fall/winter include a raglan sleeve henley, a fashion fleece crewneck, track jackets and track pants. What is not working is last year’s basics. Guys want what’s new, not what’s already in their closets.

Could you share a few thoughts on what makes a brand cool? TIM: Marketing is key but you have to start at the item level. When I look at brands, it’s often a piece or two that’s cool, not the whole collection. Supreme is a whole different story as they did it all— marketing, collaborations, working with Louis Vuitton for a while, limiting distribution. I believe they can keep it going, even on a larger scale. KEVIN: What makes a brand cool is authenticity. Gucci, Balenciaga, these companies know who they are. These are brands that allow you to push the envelope while being yourself. KEN: I was also going to say authenticity. I’m not so sure there really are cool brands. What I’ve learned is most brands do five or six things really well, and then they’re reaching for things they’re not so good at. When I walk into some of the stores in the Meatpacking District I often see six great items and hundreds that are unexceptional. Look at Faherty and Billy Reid: they do some incredible things that truly reflect their DNA but if you try buy broad, you lose a bit of the coolness factor. The coolness is in those five or six exceptional pieces. My job is to curate the best of these brands. MICHAEL: I think we can all learn from the Supreme phenomenon: if you want to be cool, do smaller more frequent drops rather than huge seasonal deliveries. Even though these drops are limited quantities, they create a halo effect around the brand that sells basic logo t-shirts. I definitely think that’s the cool. Also collaborations, even unauthorized, seem to work,

“IT TOOK THE LAST FEW YEARS TO GET CUSTOMERS INTO FITTED JEANS; THEY’RE DEFINITELY NOT READY FOR PLEATS…” KEN GIDDON, ROTHMANS last two years to get him into fitted jeans. He’s definitely not ready for pleats. What’s hot now in our store: eco-friendly brands with a story like Save the Duck. (It’s well-priced, no animals were harmed…) Swimwear made of recycled water bottles. These little hooks help a lot but what’s really driving business now is events. Fewer men are wearing suits for work. My business was 80 percent clothing; now we’re one of the largest denim stores in the world. We have 66 different denim piles from three different vendors (but no, I’m not seeing baggy jeans coming back yet.) MICHAEL: I’m seeing so much gender fluidity, so many high fashion editorials showing guys in ruffled shirts, in lace fabrics, even big sequin brooches like Christopher Bailey showed at Burberry. Clearly, men today are more comfortable with their sexuality. When I was growing up, if you cared about your appearance you were labeled gay. Today, men are expected to look good; breaking down barriers between genders is fashionable. It will be interesting to see how that trickles down. KEVIN: I’m happy to report that despite what you might hear in the media, brickand-mortar retail is alive and well. We’re selling great interpretations of fleece, streetwear, sneakers; all of these are hot. And yes, events are key. A sneaker drop definitely drives traffic. A recent Ralph Lauren event, where they brought back a collection from 20 years ago, had lines around the block at 8am. It sold out in NY and the Beverly Center in 15 minutes! I had the designer from Public School and several actors calling and texting me to get them product. Another example of driving traffic involved one of my favorite collections: Stone Island. This was a brand we had positioned as

“TODAY, MEN ARE EXPECTED TO CARE ABOUT STYLE; BREAKING DOWN GENDER BARRIERS IS FASHIONABLE.” MICHAEL MACKO as does brand borrowing (e.g. a designer brand using a font that’s similar to a streetwear brand.) Exclusivity, authenticity, newness: this very cool customer does not want the same thing that everyone else is wearing. (Continued on page 18)

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2018 MR

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{ RETAIL PANEL }

Would you share the biggest mistake you’ve made so these students can learn from your experience? KEVIN: I’ve learned that you can’t make decisions based on your personal taste, especially in a department store. I remember all the years I didn’t buy this particular brand that made fancy embellished shirts because I really hated the product. I passed on it for years only to watch every one of my competitors pick it up and build million-dollar businesses. MICHAEL: When you work in fashion, unless you design your own brand, you can’t go by your own taste. As men’s fashion director at Saks, I worked so hard getting in a Paul Smith shop; I was devastated the following year when it got replaced by a Versace shop. I soon learned it’s never about your personal taste. KEN: There’s an old retail adage: If you’re not making mistakes, you’re not taking enough chances. My biggest mistake was not figuring out a way to buy the real estate my store is renting. Another was going to a trade show and buying tons of these bright color rubber belts from Italy, packaged in plastic cubes. I think I sold 3 out of 300. (Does anyone want some?) TIM: My mistakes usually result from pushing our clients too fast. We have many classic traditional stores that don’t need to

see out of Europe: the amount of heritage that’s come back but not the old heritage. It’s a new heritage with performance and comfort features. I love the topcoats selling in fast fashion stores worn with denim. It’s amazing—so tailored looking. I think there’s a generation that wants tailoring in their closets but it’s a bit different for a younger generation that never wore suits. I’m loving things like the slouchier topcoat, a great look

“FOR THE PAST YEAR AND A HALF, WE NO LONGER DO TREND REPORTS, WE DO STYLE REPORTS.” KEVIN HARTER, BLOOMINGDALE’S already selling in Europe and Asia that’s very fresh.

Final question to help aspiring designers in the audience: how does a new brand get into your store? KEVIN: My advice is to persevere. We try to see every brand that calls us. We go to all trade shows, we divide and conquer. My advice is to start off small. Take advantage of the services available to you at FIT and from the CFDA. If you’re all about design, find a partner with business savvy, with financial expertise. Maybe don’t start out with department store clients. MICHAEL: My best advice is do your homework. When I was at Saks, we’d always ask “where on our selling floor do you see yourself ? It’s important that you know the store. TIM: It’s tough for new brands to break in, especially in moderate department store that are less open to newness. They don’t have the space; they have to make money. New brands would do better to pursue small specialty stores.

“I OFTEN ADVISE MY CLIENTS TO THINK ABOUT IT NOW BUT IMPLEMENT IT LATER. A GOOD EXAMPLE IS THE SLOUCHY FIT…” TIM BESS, DONEGER GROUP be contemporary, just because I like contemporary. I need to listen before I advise. MICHAEL: When I was at Saks, chief merchant Ron Frasch would often say that he was very happy to be second. Let Barneys and Bergdorf ’s fight over being first. Let them work out the kinks with new vendors.

One question on tailored clothing: is there enough newness? Why isn’t the industry changing the basic suit model? KEN: Men are the new women. They care, they look at Instagram, they’re noticing details like peak lapels, pocket squares, inside trim. I believe there’s enough newness in model. The problem is that since fewer guys wear suits regularly, they don’t see it as an investment. Many of our customer are trading down from a $2,000 suit to a $500 suit. They say they don’t really care how it’s made or how long it lasts; they’re going for a look. TIM: I recently did a style presentation on suits and I agree there’s lots of newness in tailoring right now. I’m loving what I

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

How about selling direct to consumers? KEVIN: I used to work closely with the CFDA and I recall one young designer who decided to drop his wholesale business and go direct. Unfortunately, it didn’t work for him; it’s harder than it looks. The best success stories are those where there’s a balance of brick-and-mortar and digital. You can start out online and perhaps move into temporary pop-up shops. KEN: New gift markets keep popping up around the city; these are great places to start out I believe. As for reaching retailers, it’s not that hard. I suggest you visit the store, send an email, compliment what we’re doing, convince us why your line would sell in our store, perhaps consider a consignment arrangement to start. You have to be entrepreneurial but we’re in your court. I truly love carrying emerging brands and root for independent designers to take off. What it takes most is perseverance. ●

Italy @ MRKET

CLOTHING & FOOTWEAR

Sumptuous, with world class fabrics and legendary Italian ﬁt, check out the latest offerings from these new and familiar resources, and a pair of shoes to coordinate.

PAOLO SCAFORA NAPOLI

PIERO GABRIELI

GIANNI MANZONI - ALPETORA

FLANNEL BAY - NAPOLI

RATTÁ

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{ RETAILING }

Paul Stuart

STYLISH STORE

The 80-year-old retailer is making some changes, cosmetic and strategic. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

n an era of retail disruption where the old rules no longer apply, Paul Stuart still does many things the old-fashioned way. Is this a good thing? Here, we sit down with Paulette Garafalo, the store’s CEO for the past 18 months, to talk about strategy.

flagship has been so unpredictable. Our branch stores (two in Chicago and one in DC) are doing fine with their loyal local customers, but this Madison Avenue flagship is our heart and soul and we need to make it more consistent.

You seemed so firmly entrenched at Brooks Brothers: why did you take this job? I took the job because I’ve always admired this store and, with so many years at Brooks Brothers and Hickey Freeman, I felt I had the skill set to make a difference. When I first interviewed here, I was asked how long it would be until I could turn things around and I said probably three years. I didn’t have a set plan: I needed the first year to listen and absorb, the second to execute and the third to refine. I’ve learned that if you move too quickly, you make lots of mistakes and risk losing the DNA of the original company. The owners agreed with me and didn’t demand overnight results.

Your newly renovated main floor at the flagship is magnificent. I’m very proud of it: the fluted wood, the polished floors, the original Persian rugs, the gorgeous new women’s department, the trendy men’s hair salon (it just opened and already guys are waiting in line for a transformative haircut!) But most of my pride is reserved for our sales associates: they’re the ones who make this place special. They’re the ones who know everything about the business, and everything about their customers. For example, we do a disproportionate amount of business by appointment. When I first started, I’d hear all these in-store announcements on the loudspeaker stating that a specific sales associate has a “CU on two...” I had no idea what they were talking about and was too embarrassed to ask but it turns out a CU is a customer here to ‘see you’. So now when a seller tells me “It should be a good day: I have four CU’s coming in,” I know what he’s talking about. But truth be told: CUs are great but our bigger challenge is to increase walk-in traffic.

So how’s it going? To be honest, I’m obsessing a lot. Business is erratic: on fire in September, off in October, and ahead for November, but we got off to a slow start in December. We need to figure out why business in the

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

Italy @ MRKET

COLLECTIONS

From shoes and socks to outerwear and hats and gloves, Italian collection dressing allows you to look completely pulled together without having to do the work.

REPORTER

CORTIGIANI

MARCO DE LUCA BOSSO

RIFUGIO "HAND MADE LEATHER JACKET" NAPOLI

RODRIGO

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{ RETAILING } Could you articulate your other big challenges as CEO? In addition to growing business in the flagship, our current goals include: 1) building international business beyond Japan (where there are two freestanding stores and about 100 shop-in-shops); 2) growing the wholesale business (“Made on Madison” is our fabulous concept shop for luxury robes and loungewear, all made right upstairs; 3) growing the women’s business; 4) increasing the penetration of made-to-measure; and 5) bringing in more younger customers. How’s that last one going? Admittedly, the majority of our customers are 45-plus, since not too many millennials are buying $2,000 suits. But ironically, despite a small surcharge, made-to-measure is bringing in some younger guys as this generation seems to like personalization. We’re now pursuing MTM in dress furnishings as well as in clothing; it also helps keep down inventory levels. And of course we’re growing sportswear. Right now tailored clothing is about 60 percent of the men’s business but we’re moving into sportswear in a big way. When I started, the team didn’t believe in casual bottoms: there wasn’t a single pair of men’s casual pants in the store! Now we’ve got great assortments of khakis and fivepockets in addition to dress trousers. So we’re moving in the right direction. But I believe tailored clothing will remain the backbone of our business because we offer so much value. Our customer can get a beautifully-styled full canvas suit in the finest Italian fabrics from the finest maker for $2,000; our European competitors are much more expensive.

How much of your total business is done online? It’s still only about 8 percent; it should be 15-20 percent. In fact, I was just complaining to our head of e-commerce who immediately replied that our web business was up 16 percent in October. I told him that’s not good enough: I need it up 200 percent! You mentioned a wholesale business: what’s that about? Right now, it’s mostly luxury robes for men and women, all made right upstairs by our very talented craftsmen. We’re looking to wholesale the collection since it’s so unique. However, the problem is that most retailers are not all that eager to buy product from another retailer. We recently shipped some robes to Rochester Big&Tall and they’re really excited about the potential. Because B&T is a niche business, they don’t see us as competition. Tell me about your women’s business, which has long been a struggle? We never sold much women’s, I think because we didn’t address working women. In retrospect, it seems obvious: we’re right in midtown between the Harvard and Yale clubs; we should be catering to professional women all day long. With our new product mix, I think the business will continue to grow. Plus it’s now all under the direction of one creative director so there’s a single vision guiding everything we do.

What’s been performing best at retail this fall/winter? Suits have been consistent and contemporary sportswear is doing really well. In fact, our best sellers are items we never thought we could sell: suede leggings, men’s banded bottom joggers in luxury Paulette Garafalo, CEO, Paul Stuart fabrics (they sold out!), quilted vests for men and women (sold out twice!), sporty shoes, even hiking boots. We’re Are you using any of the new selling hand-knit sweaters for dogs measuring technology or those digital screens that help customers visualize how their custom crafted in Uruguay (my dog Patsy is in our Christmas catalog!), knit caps with fur pompoms, mink-lined men’s vests and barn coats… suits will look in various colors and patterns? To be honest, I don’t think that’s for us. We have almost 30 tailors working in this building and our customers expect that personal What is your outlet strategy? Do you worry that off-price will touch. It’s not uncommon for a VIP customer from Scottsdale or damage the Paul Stuart image? Boston to fly into NYC on a Friday with his wife or partner and We have only one outlet and this is for disposing of past season spend the entire day shopping. In these cases, our tailor shop will goods. We don’t plan on opening more: it’s only an absorption stratwork all night so the customer can fly home on Saturday with his egy. Bottom line, our stores are on sale only twice a year, and only new wardrobe perfectly altered. Since we’re so much about per- end-season. We don’t do point-of-purchase promotions because sonal service, the digital stuff doesn’t quite resonate with our cus- we’re not competing with Saks or Bergdorf ’s on the big brands. Virtually everything we sell is exclusive to us. tomers.

I didn’t want to change a lot but rather bring to life what was already there.”

Yet you’ve launched an e-commerce business, right? Yes and we’re very excited about it! It hadn’t been part of our culture previously so I saw a huge opportunity there. We hired a whole new young digital team and shifted our marketing dollars so we’re now spending 45 percent of our budget online, and 55 percent on traditional advertising, which our customer still appreciates. I’m very happy with our recent print Christmas catalog.

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

I think Mr. Grodd must be smiling from heaven to see how you’re building on his legacy. We’re trying really hard to maintain the family values and I think we’re achieving that. I never knew Cliff Grodd personally but from all I’ve heard, he was the one who created a culture revolving around the world’s finest product and exceptional service. It’s a philosophy that’s served us well. ●

Italy @ MRKET

SHIRTS & PANTS

Creativity in design makes the difference, especially when combined with ďŹ ne and innovative Italian fabrics. Peruse the latest offerings here, and be sure to see them at the show.

TINTORIA MATTEI

ALESSANDRO GHERARDI ANDREA BOSSI ITALWEAR

CALIBAN

ANTONIO BARBUTO

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{ BRANDING }

STREET STYLE What makes a brand cool? BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

n our rapidly changing fashion universe, parameters for success are no longer clear. Cool brands, which were once defined by volume, profits and widespread acceptance, are now assessed by very different standards. These include authenticity, sustainability, collaborations, craftsmanship, heritage, distribution and frequent new issues. According to those who study psychographics, Millennials would rather discover a brand by accident than have it thrust upon them. In many cases these days, the more popular a brand becomes, the less cool; the more blatant the promotion, the less desirable the product. That said, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no better recent case study for brand-building than, Supreme, the $1 billion-valued streetwear label launched in 1994 by James Jebbia, who recently sold a 50 percent stake in the business to private equity firm The Carlyle Group. This ultra-cool, highly coveted brand has grown dramatically in recent years based on a combination of winning moves: collaborations with luxury brands, musicians and artists; compelling ads that feature these artists rocking Supreme-logo T-shirts; posters of these ads shown all over town; consistent brand identity; limited quantities; and re-

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

cently de-emphasizing their wholesale business to concentrate on direct sales, both domestic and global. Despite rumblings of overexposure and questions concerning how a likely public offering will impact the coolness factor, the brand somehow remains the epitome of cool and continues to grow. At least for now. So what makes a brand cool? What should retailers look for when shopping the vast universe of emerging designers? How can an emerging designer turn into a cool brand?

We asked a few experts. >

Italy @ MRKET

SHIRTS

Creativity in design makes the difference, especially when combined with ďŹ ne and innovative Italian fabrics. Peruse the latest offerings here, and be sure to see them at the show.

VINCENZO DE LAUZIERS

GALLIA

TACCALITI SHIRTS

FRAY

MAROL

MONTALIANI

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INGRAM

{ BRANDING } customer gets hooked on a given brand, they want to move along with it but they also want to look current. Cool brands need to evolve. Currently, cool brands that have figured it out include, in my opinion: James Perse, AMI, Gucci, Margaret Howell, Maison Margiela, Neil Barrett, GREATS, Common Projects, Save Khaki and Tom Ford.

DURAND GUION GROUP VP/FASHION DIRECTOR, MACY’S:

Very few brands start off as “Cool” and if they do, it’s usually for a short period of time. The coolest brands go in and out of a coolness factor. This has nothing to do with being successful or desirable, as brands can do sizable volume and make money without being defined as cool. Timing is everything when it comes to cool: brands that successfully navigate how to be cool when the spotlight is on have a better chance of being cool again. Today, there’s no question that collaborations can make a brand cool, as can some level of celebrity endorsement. Depending on the brand, limited availability and/or high price points can achieve a coolness factor. Creating excitement, mirroring the current zeitgeist or bucking current trends all together can also contribute to a coolness factor. A good, authentic story behind the brand, founder or designer can also create coolness. At the end of the day, enough people have to connect with the intention or message of a brand for it to be considered cool. Any brand, either new or existing, can be cool these days. With social media now such a powerful tool for information and discovery, there’s a constant flow of the next cool brand. The tricky part is figuring out how they evolve.

TOMMY FAZIO UBM FASHION DIRECTOR

A cool brand is one that builds a lifestyle that men want. Brands come and go but sustainable brands always keep it fresh without deviating from their DNA. When a

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

ROBERTO RAMOS THE DONEGER GROUP

COOL BRANDS, WHICH WERE ONCE DEFINED BY VOLUME, PROFITS AND WIDESPREAD ACCEPTANCE, ARE NOW JUDGED BY VERY DIFFERENT STANDARDS.

Cool means different things to different people: early adopters want the latest and greatest, while classic guys are more interested in craftmanship and provenance (which accounts for the success of brands like Brunello Cucinelli). In either case, cool brands are first and foremost about the product: how it’s made, consistent quality, design. Just as important is clarity of vision and great storytelling so consumers will buy into the vision. A cool brand takes itself seriously but not too seriously. There should also be a core of authenticity: most consumers can sniff out what’s real and what’s fabricated. After that, it’s about inspiration. Most men are just looking to be their best self. A cool brand instills a certain confidence. Confidence is the new cool. At the end of the day, the goal is to improve life.

SIMON GRAJ GRAJ & GUSTAFSON

What constitutes a cool brand is no so longer simple. The factors that once reflected cool—rebellion, regionality, authenticity, heroism—are not necessarily relevant. Old rules don’t apply anymore: it’s no longer about brands dictating;

consumers are now in control. Ever since the internet crossed borders, walls are crumbling and people are discovering commonalities. More often than not, cool brands are discovered by internal radar rather than by aggressive marketing. When building a brand, awareness is more important than strategic planning. It’s about insight/intuition: we all have it but we rarely use it. The new experts are generalists: they think big picture; they observe; they connect the dots. Of course, cool brands need to contribute something of value, not just something to the bottom line. Ironically, it’s counterproductive to attempt to build a cool brand in an era of world crisis. In light of current affairs and today’s activism, cool brands are not cool. Brands with built-in obsolescence: not cool. Expensive, trying to impress: not cool. Everything is yin and yang. Quirky is cool; flaunting it: not cool. Less-is-more: cool. Needy: not cool. Humility: cool. Pride: not cool. Certain brands are cool by staying true to their DNA: Katz’s Deli is cool. Brioni is cool, as are Nike, Vans, Supreme, Chris Walker. Levi’s comes and goes. Often, undiscovered brands are cool until they get discovered. Shinola: not cool (trying too hard). A 1971 Corvette: cool. Bottom line: Cool brands (and cool people) are low-key, calm, unruffled, obliviously conscious but not opinionated, manipulative or show-y. As a marketer, I’m thrilled to witness the emergence of a higher intelligence, to discover a new language driven by internal radar rather than by rules. Today’s successful brands need original voices. It’s much more about art than science. ●

Italy @ MRKET

NECKWEAR

Fine Italian ties and scarves are driving a new interest in high quality neckwear that reﬂects a man’s taste and personality.

VITALIANO MARCHESI DI COMO DOLCEPUNTA

SILVIO FIORELLO

ITALO FERRETTI

PAOLO ALBIZZATI

FABIO TOMA ROMA ARCURI TIES

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{ FURNISHINGS }

As sock departments are saturated with wild and crazy novelties, retailers look for new avenues of growth. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

STAND UP IN STYLE

fter many years of exitement in men’s hoisery (as socks have replaced ties as a means of selfexpression), the pendulum is swinging away from racks full of wild and crazy novelites towards a variety of options. “We’re seeing a return to a more sophisticated look,” says designer Vivek Nagrani (whose socks now range from $40-$75 MSRP.) “The real luxury consumer is definitely seekng something more exculsive, which includes fabrics like cashmere and luxury blends. In fact, since we’ve changed direction to this more sophisticated look, all of our sales and re-orders are up, including 27 percent at Harry Rosen.” Adds Gary Flynn, president of Charleston-based M. Dumas & Sons. “We’’ve been in a trend cycle where our customers were after louder and bolder patterns. However, socks are getting more sophisticated again. Still, that doesn’t mean they are boring!” Indeed, boring does not make cash registers ring. “On the weave-side, we're seeing success with socks with cool 3D effects, like those from Ace & Everett,” says Sam Glaser, vice president and buyer of Las Vegas-based STITCHED. Adds Louis Di Giacomo, chief men’s merchant at Saks Fifth Avenue: “We are seeing our customers buying stripes in brighter colors as well as novelty prints on basic colors.”

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

Durand Guion, men’s fashion director at Macy’s, stresses the need for a mix of styles. “The male consumer is moving into more dress-inspired socks, which means he’s still looking for novelty socks in new prints, patterns and colors in order to create a canvas for self-expression.” Guion also advocates adding no-show socks to the mix. In fact, industry estimates now have noshows at around 10 percent of the mix at department and mid-tier stores. “As more men gain confidence about exposing a bit of ankle, along with the trend to shorter inseams or rolling up pant bottoms, the need for no-shows has increased,” he says. This increase in “ankle swag,” as Sharon Hausner, a buyer at the Doneger Group calls it, has also led men to “athletic fusion” socks, which combine novelty patterns and bold designs with a cushioned foot and other performance features, including moisture-wicking (One brand that does this particularly well is Pair of Thieves, which retails in the $10-$12 range). Smart retailers who wish to have a leg up in the sock game are adding more variety, thus growing sales and profits.●

TOP: Left to right: Per Pedes, Remo Tulliani, Peter Millar, Pantherella and Pantherella. I N S E T : Left to right: Vivek Nagrani, Happy Socks, Ike Behar, Ace & Everett and Paul Smith

Italy @ MRKET

FURNISHINGS

These are the ﬁnishing touches that deﬁne a man’s style. And Italians do it better than anyone. Liven up your product mix with key items for impulse sales.

BELTS + DI PIAZZA STEFANO

BRESCIANI 1970

PAOLO VITALE HANDMADE IN ITALY

PANIZZA

CROCLUX

FFEFÉ GLAMOUR

CALABRESE1924

Visit us at Italy@MRKETNY | January 21-23, 2018 | Javits Center, NY E M A I L - N E WYO RK@IC E.IT

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{ TRENDS }

8 MUST-HAVE TRENDS FOR FALL 2018 Don’t forget to look for these items when shopping the trade shows this season. It’s no longer an insult to say a man’s wardrobe essentials are made up of things his father and grandfather prized. In fact, this concept of new tradition is what is driving sales for most of the menswear industry. For fall/winter ‘18, we’re on a metaphorical time travel that welcomes the “best of ” from generations past, a collision of eras from tweedy suiting in softer hands and flex fits to overcoats and sport coats that go from workday to chill weekend. MICHAEL FISHER, VP | CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MENSWEAR AT FASHION SNOOPS

MILL SWEATER There’s a fresh focus on texture and the artisans behind some of our favorite fabrics like Donegal tweed. The mill sweater looks back to generations of traditional techniques like Aran cables and Fair Isle motifs, but updates them in unexpected construction and size scales. Dries Van Noten

Damir Doma

Missoni

CONSIGNMENT SPORTCOAT There’s no doubt that tailored clothing can be translated into any situation, from the workday to Sunday brunch. Sportcoats that a man can throw on over his favorite hoodie are an integral part of the season. Stretch tweeds with a softer hand will do best, looking like they’ve been in his wardrobe for years. Gosha Rubchinskiy

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

Billy Reid

Raf Simons

{ TRENDS }

THROW OVERCOAT Never before has the overcoat been such an essential item for all markets, from young menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to contemporary and tailored clothing. The slouchier silhouette and softer hand are fresh updates from the traditional 9-to-5 formal version of years past.

Burberry

Palm Angels

Valentino

UNIFORM SHIRT A renewed appreciation for workwear and archetypical uniforms is already being felt for next fall (and forecasted to go beyond to spring â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;19). Classic utilitarian details like oversized pockets and rugged trim still exist, but newness comes from the use of more luxurious shirtings and a surprising batch of fashion colorways. Calvin Klein

Carlos Campos

Ports 1961

RETRO CORDUROY PANT A major inspiration for the last couple of seasons has been the golden age of jazz, and one of the requisite items is the chunky corduroy pant. After so many years of pinwale cords, next fall is all about a wider wale and traditional details like a higher waist, creases and extended tab closures. Billy Reid

Todd Snyder

Matiere

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2018 MR

{ TRENDS } OVERSIZED SWEATSHIRT Another extension of the comfort conversation has to do with the sweatshirt, which has become somewhat of a seasonless must-have by now. Plush velour, high-pile shearlings, and retro placed logos make it the perfect balance to otherwise tailored styles. General Idea

Dries Van Noten

Represent

TECH FLANNEL SHIRT-JACKET Another one of those perfect â&#x20AC;&#x153;added valueâ&#x20AC;? options is the shirtjacket, typically offered as a three-season outerwear option. For next fall, the classic flannel gets a techy update with performance fabric blends, as well as outdoorsy details like utility pockets, plush trim and quilted trim. Lacoste

Kolor

Sacai

ON THE GO SUIT Guys want suits that move with them, and going back to the way it used to be is not an option. Stretch fabrics are being worked into more classic silhouettes so that the concept of athleisure can be subtler. For the more directional consumer, sporty basketball stripes and padded down inserts and techno trim are key. Ermenegildo Zegna

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

Junya Watanabe

Neil Barrett

{ FASHION }

In the following pages and throughout their careers, these 13 industry leaders display not only exceptional personal style but also outstanding contributions to the menswear industry. In our estimation, style comprises vision, action and integrity, as well as fashion savvy. That’s what makes these remarkable individuals MR’s 2018 Style Icons.

STYLE

SETTERS BY TOMMY FAZIO | PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSHUA WOODS | PRODUCED BY STEPHEN GARNER | GROOMING BY ARYA RED

When I think about what's inﬂuenced my personal style, it was mostly the people I respected as a young man. The list is topped by my father, a physician who wore a suit and tie every day, even when retired. I was equally impressed by Fred Pressman’s nonchalant, understated elegance.”

TOM KALENDERIAN, EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, GMM, MEN’S BARNEYS NEW YORK

My style embraces all of American menswear. Some days, it drifts a little more into tailored clothing or a little further into sportswear, but it’s always nothing but classic New England American.”

MICHAEL BASTIAN, DESIGNER, MICHAEL BASTIAN GRAY LABEL

I would say that my style is emotionally different every day. It changes depending on what I will be doing that day, be it working or just spending time with someone.â&#x20AC;?

MASSIMO BIZZOCCHI, MASTER TAILOR, KITON

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

My style is very eclectic, international, and true to my own values. It’s more about the story of each particular garment that really inﬂuences my style. I’ve spent my career exploring the journey of how a garment starts and how it comes to market. I pay attention to where it’s made, who is making it, and I ask the question, is it personal to me?”

BURAK CAKMAK, DEAN OF FASHION, PARSONS SCHOOL OF DESIGN

My style is a mash-up of luxe sportswear, street sensibility, and active lifestyle pieces. I like to dress up. I grew up dressing up. But, I also love sports and the culture around that. Even when I was a tailor, I loved to mix up the details to create my look.â&#x20AC;? CHRIS BEVANS, DESIGNER, DYNE

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

I would describe my style as disheveled American. But I really ﬁnd inspiration from my travels and nature. These really inﬂuence the way I dress.

STEVEN KOLB, CEO, CFDA

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2018 MR

I would rather put my thought process into my work than my wardrobe, so I tend to stick with a particular look that revolves around some sort of tailored statement jacket and balancing that with more casual items like denim and a Common Projects shoe. That’s my uniform, which I tend to gravitate to every day.”

BRUCE PASK, MEN’S FASHION DIRECTOR, BERGDORF GOODMAN, NEIMAN MARCUS

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

In three words I would describe my style as ‘eclectic but classic’. I deﬁnitely appreciate tailored clothing, but I also like mixing it with more contemporary sportswear pieces. I do my best to project how I think my future self would look a few years down the line.”

BRIAN TRUNZO, SENIOR MENSWEAR EDITOR, WGSN

“My style is, very simply, classic with a twist. I take my inspiration from Instagram and my frequent international travels. I always come back very inspired from my trips, and that deﬁnitely inﬂuences my looks.”

DURAND GUION, GROUP VICE PRESIDENT, FASHION DIRECTOR, MACY’S

“I would describe my style as luxury casual. I like really nice comfortable clothes that I can wear with clients but will still work if I suddenly get asked to help move a couch up three ﬂights of stairs.” –Ken “I tend to wear very slim tailored looks that are one step ahead of our core customers. I like to encourage our customers about what they can wear by what I put on at work.” –Jim

JIM AND KEN GIDDON, PRESIDENT AND OWNER, ROTHMANS NEW YORK MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2018 MR

I try to whisper it, not scream it. I like to stick with two or three colors, not more. I strive for a very down-to-earth feel that also includes a few little details that make me feel polished.â&#x20AC;?

NISH DE GRUITER, VICE PRESIDENT, SUITSUPPLY

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

Whatever the weather is doing outside and whatever I am doing for the day determines what I will wear. In all honesty, I just look around and research. I’m inspired by what’s happening on the streets, in magazines, and on social media. It’s all right there in front of us, we just have to pay attention to it.

NICK WOOSTER, MEN’S FASHION DIRECTOR, FORTY FIVE TEN

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2018 MR

JANUARY 21-23, 2018 JACOB JAVITS CENTER, NYC

NY MENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S | JANUARY 21-23, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM

48 UBMFASHION.COM | JANUARY 21-23, 2018 | NY MENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

WELCOME BACK PROJECT and MRket welcome you back to the premiere men’s fashion trade event of the season. Join us this January as we unveil our newest area for exploration, The Foundry. We’ll also be hosting innovative panel discussions, lively industry gatherings, and, of course, addressing all of your buying needs on one ﬂoor. January 21-23, 2017 | Jacob Javits Center, NYC Sunday 9AM - 6PM, Monday 9AM - 6PM & Tuesday 9AM - 4PM

NY MEN’S | JANUARY 21-23, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM 49

HEINRICH DINKELACKER

MOORE & GILES

KLEMAN

UBMFASHION.COM | JANUARY 21-23, 2018 | NY MENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

PROJECT continues to be the singular destination for advanced contemporary apparel in the men’s marketplace. This season features a number of different neighborhoods and communities to help you navigate the market, from THE TENTS, our ﬂagship destination on the ﬂoor, to PROJECT SOLE, the marketleading footwear space. BRANDS: 34 Heritage Agave Age of Wisdom Alchemy Equipment Ltd. Alchester & Sons Alexander Julian Astronomy Clothing Autumn Cashmere Benson Borsalino Brax Feel Good City Sport Caps Derek Rose Digel Doce Cero Tres EDEN PARK Faherty Brand Fertini Fidelity Denim Fisher and Baker Frame Denim French Connection Gentil Bandit Good Man Brand Grayers America Inc. HALSEY Handvaerk Hartt Boot & Shoe Company LTD. HESTRA Hook & Albert Indian Motorcycle 1901 J & M Est. 1850 Japan Fashion Leather Designers Jean Rousseau John Smedley Limited Johnston & Murphy Kenneth Cole Productions Kinross KJUS North America, Inc. Kleman KYLE’LYK

Liverpool Jeans Lucchese M. Singer Marc Joseph New York Mavi Mododoc Moore & Giles Mr. Swim MX Paris by Maxime Simoens National Standard Nico Nerini Norwegian Wool Original Paperbacks Paraboot, Inc. PHIL PETTER Raga Man Railtown Apparel Group Relwen Res Ipsa Right Bank Shoe Co. Robert Talbott Rock Revival Rockstar Sailors & Brides Save the Duck Schneiders Salzburg SELECTED HOMME Shoepassion Siga International Slate Denim & Co. slimTECH GEAR Stacy Adams State Bags Stolen Riches Tasc Performance Testosterone Trask Tricker’s Troubadour Goods Ltd. Tumi Outerwear Velvet by Graham & Spencer Wrangler

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HISO

QUIETI

The brands at MRket remain as vital as ever to the menswear community. This show hosts everything from ﬂagship industry stalwarts to upstart brands providing a fresh twist on the gentleman’s uniform.

BRANDS: Alan Paine Knitwear Alden Alessandro Gherardi Alfred Sargent Allsize Amanda Christensen/Wigens Amicale Cashmere Andrea Bossi/Italwear Artidea Maglieria SRL Baade II, Ltd. Barbour Inc. Barbuto & Co

Baroni Belts + di Piazza Stefano Bertigo Bespoke Factory Group Bills Khakis Blujacket Bresciani 1970 Calabrese 1924 Cardinal Of Canada Chelsey Imports Ltd. Christopher Lena Chrysalis Classico

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Confezioni Gallia SRL Corrente Cortigiani Dents Heritage Collection Di Bello by Nipal Dion Neckwear Ltd. Dubarry of Ireland Edward Green Empire Clothing En-Soi/Perre ESTE ITALIA Ettinger Ltd Fabio Toma SRL Ferrante Brands Flannel Bay - Napoli Fox Umbrellas Fray G. Manzoni/Alpetora Gente Di Mare SRL Gionfriddo International Gitman Bros Gruppo Bravo HiSO

MAYSER HEADWEAR

PANTHERELLA & SCOTT NICHOL

iDesign Ingram International Laundry J.S. Blank & Co., Inc. Jared Lang Jimmy Sales Corp. Johnstons of Elgin Kuehnert Inc. LAP SNC di Ranuzzini A.e.A Left Coast Tee Majestic International Marcello Sport Marchesi Di Como Marol.1959 Mayser Headwear Mizzen + Main

Montaliani Montechiaro Paciﬁc Silk Palazzo Sartoriale Panizza Pantherella & Scott Nichol Paolo Albizzati Paolo Vitale di F.lli Forleo Srl Paul Betenly/Aristo Peerless Clothing Peter Barton Quieti Raffi Ramatuelle Remy Leather Richard Harris, Inc. S. Cohen Inc. Sanyo New York Seaward & Stearn London Sebastien Grey Sefrag SRL Silvio Fiorello Southwick Clothes

St. Croix Collections and Heritage by St. Croix Stetson Outdoor Hats T&T Tardia Textile Project SRL TABS (The Authentic Bermuda Shorts Ltd.) Taccaliti Tailor Vintage Tallia Orange The British Apparel Collection Tiglio Inc. Torras Of Spain Trands USA VIDO SRL Vitaliano Viyella Yongzheng Tailor Shop U.S.A. Zabeo Cashmere

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NEIGHBORHOODS

SCHNEIDERS SALZBURG

HANDVAERK

Presented in an elevated environment, THE TENTS serves as a focused platform for the top luxury and designer, contemporary men’s and dual-gender labels to convene for the most inspiring shopping experience in market.

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BRANDS: Agave Alexander Julian Autumn Cashmere Borsalino Derek Rose EDEN PARK Faherty Brand Frame Denim Gentil Bandit Good Man Brand Grayers America Inc. Handvaerk Hartt Boot & Shoe Company LTD. HESTRA Hook & Albert Jean Rousseau John Smedley Limited Kinross KJUS North America, Inc. Kleman M. Singer Moore & Giles MX Paris by Maxime Simoens National Standard Paraboot, Inc. PHIL PETTER Railtown Apparel Group Relwen Res Ipsa Schneiders Salzburg SELECTED HOMME Troubadour Goods Ltd.

An exclusive new section of PROJECT New York and Las Vegas, The Foundry is a natural evolution of the modern gentleman’s cultured aesthetic. Here, a tastefully curated selection of reﬁned men’s apparel, purposeful objects, male grooming products, and contemporary home goods await. Every item is selected for both form and function — where utilitarian beauty and the artfully functional come together to elevate every aspect of a man’s lifestyle. Brands located within The Foundry are, above all: considered, informed, and elegant.

BRANDS: 40 Colori Brownlee City Sport Caps FH Wadsworth Hari Mari Hommard KYLE’LYK Ledbury Norwegian Wool slimTECH GEAR Stantt Stolen Riches Trumbull Rhodes Werner Christ 40 COLORI

NY MEN’S | JANUARY 21-23, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM

NEIGHBORHOODS

MOVE @ PROJECT highlights not only activewear brands, but also those brand that use performance as the core of their mission statement. BRANDS: MGP Sport Sweat Tailor Vuori Strongbody Apparel Tasc Performance PE 360 Rhone

RHONE

Brits in New York is comprised of U.K.-based brands that include the best in British Menswear, from handmade footwear to Savile Row tailoring to colorful sartorial furnishings and British country heritage brands. BRANDS: Alan Paine Knitwear Alfred Sargent Barbour The British Apparel Collection Chrysalis Dents Gloves

SEAWARD AND STEARN

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Dubarry of Ireland Edward Green Ettinger Ltd. Fox Umbrellas Johnstons of Elgin Kuehnert Inc. Seward & Stearn London

SHOE PASSION

PROJECT SOLE highlights the best of contemporary and modern men’s footwear brands alongside complementary apparel brands. It allows for headto-toe styling and the convenience of one-stop shopping for buyers.

BRANDS: Fertini J & M Est. 1850 Johnston & Murphy Kenneth Cole Productions Lucchese Marc Joseph New York Right Bank Shoe Co. Robert Talbott Shoepassion Testosterone Trask Tricker’s

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NEIGHBORHOODS

BRANDS: DL1961 Premium Denim Mavi Fidelity Denim Rock Revival PAIGE 34 Heritage Rockstar Liverpool Jeans

BLUE is the industry’s premier destination for premium denim brands fueled by the spirit of denim. With denim as the foundation of PROJECT, this open environment section celebrates organic and deconstructed denim & product.

UBMFASHION.COM | JANUARY 21-23, 2018 | NY MEN’S

Featuring the ﬁnest brands that Italy has to offer, Made in Italy showcases the craftsmanship that borders on art when it comes to making apparel and accessories.

BRANDS: Alessandro Gherardi Andrea Bossi/Italwear Artidea Maglieria SRL Barbuto & Co Belts + di Piazza Stefano Bresciani 1970 Calabrese 1924 Confezioni Gallia SRL Cortigiani Di Bello by Nipal ESTE ITALIA Fabio Toma SRL Ferrante Brands Flannel Bay - Napoli Fray G. Manzoni/Alpetora Gente Di Mare SRL Ingram LAP SNC di Ranuzzini A.e.A Marchesi Di Como Marol.1959 Montaliani Montechiaro Palazzo Sartoriale Panizza Paolo Albizzati Paolo Vitale di F.lli Forleo Srl Sefrag SRL Silvio Fiorello T&T Tardia Textile Project SRL Taccaliti VIDO SRL Vitaliano Zabeo Cashmere

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PHOTO SHOP

PHIL PETTER

AUTUMN CASHMERE BRAX

SHOE PASSION

TRUMBULL RHODES

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FAHERTY

STEALTH LAYERING This trend relishes elegant simplicity and subtle innovation to make layering less chunky and more sleek. Pair luxe hoodies, vests, and bombers for unexpected, under-the-radar combinations.

TROUBADOUR

NY MENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S | JANUARY 21-23, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM

PHOTO SHOP

PROTECTIVE OUTERWEAR Outerwear’s ﬁnest continue to raise the bar on all fronts. This season, bigger is deﬁnitely better. Find warmth and style in equal measure while you brave the elements.

FISHER AND BAKER

ALCHEMY EQUIPMENT

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SCHNEIDERS

BOGNER

NORWEIGIAN WOOL

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PHOTO SHOP

FRAME PHIL PETTER

LIVERPOOL JEANS

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MAVI

DENIM EVOLVED Denim is back from hiatus, coming in more washes and conﬁgurations than ever before. At the top of our list is over-washed denim that allows for true depth of color, be it blue, black, or anything else.

MAVI

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PHOTO SHOP

40 COLORI

ADVANCED FABRICS Punch up your basics in 2018 with a selection of elevated fabrics. Whether it’s taking advantage of new technologies or mining your sartorial heritage for textured knits.

ALCHEMY EQUIPMENT

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BROWNLEE

TATEOSSIAN

PHIL PETTER

ALCHEMY EQUIPMENT

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PHOTO SHOP

RIGHT BANK SHOE CO.

CORGI

BRACKISH

DOCE CERO TRES

TATEOSSIAN

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ETTINGER

HOMEMADE Indulge in your favorite craft fantasy with this trend. Homemade accessories, novelty knits and socks, and an appreciation for all things unique and colorful bring this trend to life.

40 COLORI

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PHOTO SHOP

MISMATCHED PATTERNS Take advantage of the diverse pattern offerings from menswear’s ﬁnest. Bold plaids and traditional tartans pile on with equal measure. More is certainly more here.

STACY ADAMS

KLEMAN

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40 COLORI

KLEMAN

HOGARTH

PHIL PETTER

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STATE BAGS

NEW & NOTEWORTHY The most exciting aspect of any show, discovering your new favorite brand. This season, PROJECT and MRket have teamed up to bring some of the most cutting edge and inﬂuential brands to our ﬂoor. Keep your eyes peeled for these brands as you shop the show this January.

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BRANDS: Alchemy Equipment Ltd. Alchester & Sons Bespoke Factory Group Confezioni Gallia SRL Dents Heritage Collection Doce Cero Tres EDEN PARK ESTE ITALIA Fabio Toma SRL Fertini Fray Gentil Bandit Handvaerk Hartt Boot and Shoe Company LTD. Japan Fashion Leather Designers Jean Rousseau Jimmy Sales Corp. Kleman

KLEMAN

KYLE’LYK LAP SNC di Ranuzzini A.e.A Liverpool Jeans Mr. Swim MX Paris by Maxime Simoens Nico Nerini Palazzo Sartoriale Panizza Quieti Raga Man

Ramatuelle Richard Harris Inc. Sebastien Grey Sefrag SRL slimTECH GEAR Stacy Adams State Bags TABS (The Authentic Bermuda Shorts) Testosterone Wrangler

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#BLOGGER PROJECT

A curated content experience that bridges the gap between digital influencers and brands. By connecting the right brands with the right influencers, we create live content from the tradeshow floor. Come say hi and get a picture taken in the #BloggerPROJECT photo studio! Don’t miss out on connecting with this season’s influencers, follow #BloggerPROJECT and @projectshow for the lineup announcement!

THE EDIT Stay one step ahead of the market with the latest menswear trends pulled straight from the show ﬂoor. Take advantage of PROJECT’s community of experts and see the brands curated by Tommy Fazio. The Edit highlights this season’s trends.

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STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP MANAGEMENT, AND CIRCULATION (Requester Publications Only) (Required by 39 USC 3685)

1. Publication Title: MR, the magazine of Menswear Retailing 2. Publication Number: 0007-885 3. Filing Date: 9/30/2017 4. Issue Frequency: -January, February, July & August 5. Number of Issues Published Annually: 4 6. Annual Subscription Price (if any): $34.00 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: 535 Connecticut Ave, Norwalk, CT 06854 Contact Person: Jessica Stariha Telephone: 218-740-6870 8. Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher: 2 Penn Plaza, 15th Floor, New York, NY 10121 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Addresses of Publisher: Stuart Nifoussi, 2 Penn Plaza, 15th Floor, New York, NY 10121 Editor: Karen Alberg, 2 Penn Plaza, 15th Floor, New York, NY 10121 Managing Editor: None 10. This publication is owned by: Advanstar Communications Inc., 2 Penn Plaza, 15th Floor, New York, NY 10121. The sole shareholder of Advanstar Communications Inc. is: Rocket Holdings, Inc., 1983 Marcus Ave., Suite 205, Lake Success, NY 11042. 11. Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amounts of Bonds, Mortgages, or Other Securities. 5 None If none, check box. 12. Does Not Apply 13. Publication Title: MR, the magazine of Menswear Retailing 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: August 2017 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation Average No. Copies No. Copies of Single Each Issue Issue Published During Preceding Nearest to Filing 12 Months Date A. Total Number of Copies 22,868 24,814 B. Legitimate Paid and/or Requested Distribution 1. Outside County Paid/Requested Mail Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 11,407 11,018 2. In-County Paid/Requested Mail Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 0 0 3. Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid or Requested Distribution Outside USPS 426 441 4. Requested Copies Distributed by Other Mail Classes Through the USPS 0 0 C. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation (Sum of 15b (1), (2), (3), and (4)) 11,833 11,459 D. Non-requested Distribution 1. Outside County Non-requested Copies Stated on PS Form 3541 942 1282 2. In-County Non-requested Copies Stated on PS Form 3541 0 0 3. Non-requested Copies Distributed Through the USPS by Other Classes of Mail 0 0 4. Non-requested Copies Distributed Outside the Mail 6,897 6,911 E. Total Non-requested Distribution (Sum of 15d (1), (2), (3) and (4)) 7,839 8,193 F. Total Distribution (Sum of 15c and e) 19,672 19,652 G. Copies not Distributed 3,196 5162 22,868 24,814 H. Total (Sum of 15f and g) I. Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation 60.15% 58.31% 16. Electronic Copy Circulation *If you are not claiming electronic copies, skip to line 17 17. Publication of Statement of Ownership for a Requester Publication is required and will be printed in the January 2018 issue of this publication. Name and Title of Editor, Publisher, Business Manager, or Owner: Kristina Bildeaux, Audience Development Director Signature: Date: 9/30/2017 I certify that the statements made by me above are correct and complete.

MR-mag.com is your primary online source for news, insightful analysis, innovative ideas, trend spotting, and fashion, plus an inside look at the people who drive the menswear business.

MR-mag.com THE POWER OF MR For advertising opportunites, contact Michelle for details 212.600.3325 or Michelle.Brown@UBM.com

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2018 MR

{ THE LAST WORD }

“Style in 2018 is thoughtful self-expression. It’s knowing that when you look good, you feel good, without looking like you’re trying too hard.” — MARIO BISIO, President, Mario’s “Style is an expression of your individuality. There’s no ‘one size ﬁts all’ anymore–you can mix formal and casual pieces for any occasion if you wish. It’s all about showing off your own personality and point of view.” — RYAN SEACREST, TV personality, Creator, Ryan Seacrest Distinction

“What is the difference between fashion and style? Fashion says, ‘Me, too,’ and style says, ‘Only me.’” — GERALDINE STUTZ, legendary retailer “Style is a way of being. It’s the deﬁnition of who you are and the world around you, an innate sensibility that you either have or not.” –ROOPAL PATEL, Senior Vice President, Fashion Director, Saks Fifth Avenue

“Style is a personal expression. I’ve always felt that when you look good you feel even better.” –LIZ RODBELL, President, Lord & Taylor

WHAT IS STYLE? WORDS OF WISDOM FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW.

“Perhaps the metaphor I like best about a man’s individual style is that the textures of his clothes are like the textures of his life…intricate, multi-dimensional and richly layered.” — JOSEPH ABBOUD, Chief Creative Director, Tailored Brands Inc.

“Style is primarily a matter of instinct.” —BILL BLASS, fashion designer “Style is in the mind of the wearer: it’s what makes him feel most comfortable or most powerful. In other words, style is whatever you want it to be. But a sharp suit is always in style and opens all doors.” — RONALD WURTZBURGER, Peerless Clothing

“Style is knowing who you are, what you want to say, and not giving a damn.” — GORE VIDAL, author “I love to see men dressed less formally, balancing dress-up and dress-down like the Japanese teach us with their Wabi-sabi style. Mixing one luxury piece with a non-luxury piece—say a cashmere jacket with vintage denim—this is my deﬁnition of modern style!” —MARCO BALDESSARI, Founder, Eleventy

“Fashion is about dressing according to what’s fashionable. Style is more about being yourself.” —OSCAR DE LA RENTA, fashion designer 76

MR JANUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

SAVE THE DATES! CONTEMPORARY FOOTWEAR FOR MEN

JANUARY 21-23, 2018 JACOB JAVITS CENTER, NYC

LUXURY TO LIFESTYLE BRANDED FOOTWEAR FOR MEN, WOMEN, JUNIORS, AND CHILDREN

FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018

LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER

MR JAN UARY 201 8

THE STYLE ISSUE

A UBM PU BLICATION

Vol. 29 No 1