MR January 2015

ketplace.com JANUARY 2015

MENSWEARʼS NEW MISSION PREP ESSENTIALS

2015: A NEW DIRECTION

SHOW PREVIEW

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U.K. STYLE

JANUARY 2015 | VOL. 26 NO. 1

Departments

U.K. Style

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Editorʼs Letter Ones to Watch MR Q

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Lulu Kennedy, Fashion East

46 Barbour 48 Ben Sherman 50 Alan Paine 52 Johnstons of Elgin 53 Dents

Prep Essentials 34 38

Generation Prep 10 Prep Essentials

Keep Calm and Buy British Advertorial

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Fashion The London Look

Features 12

GMM Overview

16

Retail Survey

26 62

25 Hot Topics for 2015 Trade Show Calendar

Menswearʼs New Mission Much Pain, Few Gains

2 MR | www.MRketplace.com

This page and cover: On Finlay: BELSTAFF vest, sweater, Henley and jeans; BEN SHERMAN watch; BARBOUR boots. On Patrick: BELSTAFF jacket; BARBOUR FOR LAND ROVER t-neck and pants; DENTS gloves; HUDSON boots.

Dress Shirts . Neckwear

THE MAGAZINE OF MENSWEAR RETAILING A BUSINESS JOURNALS PUBLICATION

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EDITORIAL

Britton Jones President & CEO

Christine Sullivan Chief Financial Officer

Lizette Chin Vice President, Menswear

Karen Alberg Grossman Editor-in-Chief (212) 710-7422 KarenA@MRketplace.com

Elise Diamantini Managing and Market Editor (212) 710-7429 EliseD@MRketplace.com

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editorial

NEW BEGINNINGS Hot tips from the best and the brightest.

Offer some affordably priced goods, even in a luxury environment. Just as affluent customers might shop both Crate & Barrel and Tiffany, they might also wear a Boglioli sportcoat with Leviʼs jeans. The high/low dichotomy makes perfect sense today since stores need affordable goods to attract younger customers. Just ask Crawford Brock about Stanley Korshakʼs new venture with Suitsupply, which is proving to be a “game changer” for their entire business.

We all love the Power of New: when thereʼs a fresh trend, item or brand, retailers have something to sell and business follows. But when thereʼs not much new (as is often the case in menswear, an evolutionary business), why not try the Power of Exceptional Execution? Says John Tighe at JCPenney, “Weʼve had our fill of change! Our goal now is to listen to our customer, maximize key items and make money.”

Build your private label. How else can you offer product thatʼs not available at a discount on Amazon, in outlets or on various flash sites? Tom Ott from Saks notes that the Saks store brand has become his biggest vendor, priced 20 percent above opening price but offering tremendous value.

Here at MR/MRketplace.com, weʼre proud to be entering our 25th year of reporting, projecting and analyzing the menswear business. Our goal is, and has always been, to educate, inspire and celebrate YOU, our loyal readers. Thanks for sticking with us through this past quarter century (!), for sharing your accomplishments and concerns, for helping us become not just the voice of the industry, but its heart and soul and conscience.

We have many changes in the works for the future that we look forward to sharing with you.

From Stu, Lizette, Elise, Harry, William, Michelle, Chelsea and me: May 2015 be a year filled with love, laughter and fabulous new beginnings.

Editor-in-Chief

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PHOTO BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY

T

he January issue of MR magazine is always a favorite for me: in order to recap the year, I speak with many industry visionaries who graciously share what theyʼve learned from the past 12 months. Here, a few lessons from 2014 and suggestions for 2015.

Get rid of slow performing brands! Industry analyst Steve Pruitt suggests stepping up your vendor rotation by dropping the bottom 10 to 20 percent, based on annual performance. Whenʼs the best time to drop them? Not when theyʼre downtrending, says Pruitt, but when theyʼre at their peak (which admittedly takes more chutzpah than most of us can muster...).

Renovate, remodel, re-fixture, re-merchandise. Your store and your website are your most important marketing tools; keep them fresh!

Hire young, talented sellers and pay them well. David Rubenstein from Rubensteins in New Orleans believes it takes young sellers to attract young customers and the only way to get talented young salesmen is to pay them. “Weʼre virtually funding them in their own business for the first few years, but what better investment in the future, especially since our 20-year associates will soon retire.”

Donʼt focus on too many tasks at once. Ken Gushner has taken a slight break from Boydsʼ intensive marketing schedule, not intentionally but because his marketing person left and he hasnʼt yet found a perfect replacement. Ironically, Boydsʼ business has been quite strong. “Often all the outside projects can be a distraction,” Gushner confides.

Donʼt fear the competition. Harry Rosen has been on an aggressive campaign to expand and remodel key doors to meet the onslaught of new competition, and their business is great! More stores nearby can mean more traffic: Know your strengths and build on them.

You canʼt buy every great brand you come across, nor can you carry every piece of a collection in depth. Many retailers are adopting a key item focus for 2015, which should help them improve turn and stay in stock on sizes.

That said, even with a key item focus, try to sell a complete look, not just for the bigger sale but to educate your customers about creating a fashion image. As Mario Bisio puts it, “Itʼs like trying to make a recipe without the essential ingredients: you need all the right parts to create a perfect whole.”

ones to watch Sebastian Durelli and Mattia Cisari

VINTAGE INSPIRED Sebastian Durelli and Mattia Cisari, Ross & Brown Why did you launch Ross & Brown?

Sebastian Durelli: I have a design background and Mattia comes from sales and marketing. Two years ago we were sharing our dreams over a glass of red wine when we realized that we could combine our expertise and cover all aspects of an eyewear brand. The next day I was designing our first collection and Mattia was looking for suppliers.

Whatʼs the brandʼs aesthetic?

Mattia Cisari: Ross & Brown is vintage inspired with a contemporary twist. Each style is based on a specific place and time, for example Shanghai in the 1930s, Casablanca in the 1950s, Cannes in the 1960s, Los Angeles in the 1970s or Milan in the 1980s. Our handmade acetate sunglasses retail for $135; the metals are $159. Limited-edition frames in fabrics and python skin range from $199 to 228.

Whatʼs the direction for fall 2015?

Durelli: Fall 2015 will have new limited-edition fabrics and chic bicolor frames.

ONES TO

WATCH Keep your eyes on these budding brands.

By Elise Diamantini

PERFECTING THE BASICS Alex Drexler, Alex Mill

Tell us about the brand.

I launched Alex Mill for fall 2013 as a collection of menʼs essentials: jeans ($225 retail), chinos ($165), woven shirts ($145 to $165), knits ($130 to $185) and T-shirts ($55).

The aesthetic is very classic, yet special with great fabrics, colors and details. Our fabrics are sourced from around the world, especially from Japan, and we spend a lot of time on washing, hand feel and texture of the fabric. We sell to stores like Barneys, Odin, Unionmade, Lane Crawford and Ron Herman.

Whatʼs the direction for fall 2015?

We are continuing to build on this idea of the manʼs uniform and its key items. For the first time, weʼre offering a broad selection of outerwear, from wax cotton zip-up jackets to wool bombers. Similarly, we have an expanded selection of knitwear and sweaters.

Weʼve always done well with our cashmere beanies ($95), so this season weʼre making cashmere sweaters ($160 to $200) and accessories like mittens and gloves ($95 to $110), scarves ($175) and hats ($50).

Do you have a mentor?

My greatest mentor is my father [J. Crewʼs Mickey Drexler]. He constantly pushes to make his business better and learns what he can do to improve it. Heʼs always listening to the customer; watching him run a business has taught me an incredible amount.

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Alex Drexler

ones to watch

ONE STEP AT A TIME Jeremy Stewart, Lila Stewart and John Veatch; Hari Mari Why did you launch Hari Mari?

Jeremy Stewart: I met John in the fifth grade when I saw another kid pick a fight with him on the playground. I donʼt remember how you judge a winner in a fifth grade playground fight, but John clearly won, and I knew I wanted that guy as a friend. Lila and I met after college and married four years later. We all had a shared interest in design and apparel before we had this crazy idea to start and launch our own flip-flop brand. But we saw an unmet need for a premium, quality-made flip-flop with a pop of color̶something with a timeless look, but with more character than your run-of-the-mill sandals. So we started Hari Mari in 2012 to help fill that void.

Whatʼs the brandʼs aesthetic? Where is it sold?

The aesthetic is about effortless comfort. To achieve this, we use quality full-grain leathers, soft-squeeze foam and rubber, and high-test cottons and nylons. The collection retails from $45 to $80 at stores like Jack Spade, Stag and Fred Segal.

What has been your greatest challenge?

Our greatest challenge is answering the question, “Whatʼs next?” Weʼve made great progress with our designs and innovations, like our patent-pending memory foam toe (which mitigates any break-in periods or discomfort when first wearing our footwear), but weʼre constantly looking for inspiration and ideas for our next line.

Brett Johnson

Jeremy Stewart, Lila Stewart and John Veatch

MODERN LUXURY Brett Johnson, Brett Johnson Collection Why did you launch your own line?

Iʼve been a sneaker collector since I was eight years old. I would source fabrics and leathers, bring them to New York and have a cobbler make shoes from them. I was never classically trained but I always had a passion for design, so I launched a collection of knits, trousers and outerwear in December 2013.

Whatʼs the brandʼs aesthetic?

Itʼs a high-end luxury collection. All fabrics are sourced in Italy, production is in Florence. Retail price points for knits range from $295 to $595, trousers from $185 to $250, and outerwear from $895 to $2,495.

Do you have a mentor?

Sam Edelman was the first person who talked to me seriously about footwear and has been guiding me ever since. Morris Goldfarb from GIII helped me with the companyʼs infrastructure, advised me on CADs, specs and showroom space, and has connected me with a network of people.

Whatʼs the direction for fall 2015?

Fall 2015 was inspired by Sundance in 1989, when it transformed from purely a film festival to a celebrity hangout. I was also inspired by Armaniʼs Sack Suit, which I re-created in a more modern silhouette. Another key piece is our wool cashmere ankle coat. I call it our hero piece.

10 MR | www.MRketplace.com

Photo: Sebastian Taheri spaceandlight.la 213.537.0814

Maxman Inc. 877.922.7664 baroniprive.com See us at MRKET New York Booth #853 & Las Vegas

retailing PAT MON PERE, PATRICK JAMES Our key challenges are the changing landscape and relationships between vendors and specialty stores. These days, when a new vendor comes to market, the first thing they do is launch their own website that sells directly to the public. Then they want our business to help them establish themselves and build a following. A specialty store canʼt take the margins or offer the selection that the brands give customers when they sell direct. It makes for an unlevel playing field. Add to this the continued growth of e-commerce in general̶ sites like Amazon, Zappos, Rue La La, Hautelook and MyHabit̶and itʼs very difficult for specialty stores to compete.

To do so, you need a superior and knowledgeable staff coupled with the right product

solution is learning to buy differently, to focus on different brands and cater to the most fashion-forward customers who appreciate directional, well curated assortments rather than broadly distributed brands at a price.

Another challenge is how to inspire our sellers, to help them realize that weʼre virtually funding them in their own business, which they can bring to any level they want, depending on how they work it. Weʼve got a few guys who understand this, but not enough! So what weʼre doing now into 2015 is investing in new young sales associates and teaching them clientele-ing methods in order to bring in a new generation of customers. We just hired three great new sellers; weʼre about to hire a fourth. The trick is: youʼve got to pay them! Youʼre virtually underwriting their first few years in business, but itʼs worth it if

women: weʼve spent a lot of years studying this and itʼs not easy to copy.

For 2015, weʼre making huge investments in two new flagships: 33,000 square feet in downtown Montreal and 24,000 in Toronto.

Weʼre also renovating our Pacific Center flagship: we canʼt go bigger because thereʼs no room to expand, but we can always make it better. Weʼre also building two brand new replacement stores so it will be a very capital-intensive year for us.

From a product perspective, we expect continued growth in outerwear and shoes and a return to strength in some of the other businesses that had been somewhat tenuous. The best news: weʼve had a nice increase in our percentage of regular-price business and we expect that trend to continue, due in part to our successful new loyalty program.

MENSWEARʼS NEW MISSION Top menswear execs talk successes, challenges and change.

By Karen Alberg Grossman

for your market, purchased at a price that allows you to absorb climbing expenses. You have to re-invest in the physical look and merchandising of your store to make sure itʼs current and appeals to both existing customers and the young guys you hope to capture.

Never forget the most important brand you carry is the name hanging over your front door. All marketing and merchandise purchases need to be made with that in mind. If you havenʼt created a website for your store, do so immediately. A good website validates what youʼre trying to establish in your store on so many levels. Whether you sell on this site or not, itʼs the great “silent salesman.”

The most important thing weʼre doing in 2015 is looking at our sourcing relationships in order to grow our own store brand. While this can be expensive and time consuming, it brings us back to our roots of gorgeous product and special items built for our customers that they wonʼt find on Amazon!

DAVID RUBENSTEIN, RUBENSTEINS Our biggest challenge is the vendors who sell direct: thereʼs no way we can get the margins we need to survive if weʼre featuring just those luxury brands that sell direct to customers (via their own stores or online). The 12 MR | www.MRketplace.com

theyʼre inspired and can ultimately grow the business with new customers. I believe it will pay back in the end, plus stores need to start building a team to replace their long-time associates who will soon retire.

LARRY ROSEN, HARRY ROSEN What worked best for us in 2014 was our major expansion of three stores in key centers.

It was a big investment that has already paid back beyond our expectations: weʼve had a notable pick-up in business in all three. We also successfully expanded our shoe departments in four stores; in Ottawa, the shoe area is attached to the main store but has its own entrance, so itʼs virtually a separate shoe store.

Footwear is a huge growth area for us, already contributing 10 percent to total menswear with the potential to hit 15 percent or more.

Business is especially strong in Ferragamo, Prada and Todʼs at prices of $500 and up; To Boot and private label are also doing well.

Weʼve upgraded all our stores in preparation for the new entrants, making sure to establish strong flagships in key cities; we feel very confident that we can retain our advantage, especially against retailers that are essentially womenʼs stores with a menʼs component. Men shop differently than

JAN CLEVENGER, BELK STORES Business has been erratic but our clothing business is up substantially: Lauren Ralph Lauren has worked really well for us; Michael

by Michael Kors is starting out great. Also strong for our southern stores: seasonal sportcoats in seersuckers, chambrays and corduroys presented in color multipliers. We sell color year-round and it differentiates us.

Our furnishings business is huge: shirts, ties and accessories are all doing well; socks are incredible. (Iʼm loving Happy Socks at $12 retail, especially in November/December, but athletic socks are also seeing double-digit gains.)

Our biggest growth (double-digits) is in activewear: Under Armour is beating plan, golfwear is strong, as is Nike. Our young menʼs business is driven by athleisure, which we offer under our Red Camel (private label), some of it sourced in the market. Admittedly, thereʼs been an erosion in core classifications: young guys are more into activewear than polos. That said, prep is still doing well, albeit in fewer doors. We do well with Vineyard Vines, Southern Proper, Bonobos, and of course Polo, which is also our largest business online. In menʼs sportswear, knit layering pieces, baseball jerseys, crews and Henleys are all performing well.

As for e-commerce in general, the strongest categories are nested suits, sportcoats and pants. If the price point is too low (shirts, ties, accessories), it doesnʼt justify the shipping costs.

An increasingly important concept for us is Icon Shops, smaller vendor shops (without wood floors or cabinets) that let us know which brands ultimately merit regular shops.

Other goals for 2015: pushing the needle in social media and celebrity appearances. Instore events with Hayden Panettiere, Jessica Simpson and Betsey Johnson have been hugely successful for us.

again and the word is spreading!

Within sportswear, bright spots are Nike, Van Heusen (quarter-zip sweaters, non-iron shirts) and St. Johnʼs Bay (fine-gauge sweaters, flannel shirts, puffer vests).

I also believe that the demise of denim is greatly overstated: yes joggers and sweats are important, but our denim business is healthy, from Leviʼs, Lee and Wrangler to our own Arizona. I think now that the eye has adjusted to

CRAWFORD BROCK, STANLEY KORSHAK Our biggest success in 2014 was expanding The Shak and opening (in September ʼ14) a Suitsupply shop within it. Itʼs been a huge

JOHN TIGHE, JCPENNEY

“Adding a Suitsupply shop has been a real home run, a game changer. It’s bringing young people into the store.”

We have to be somewhat careful about what we say to the press. Weʼre kind of like the Kardashians of retail: one misstep and itʼs all over the internet.

But I can proudly say that our menʼs business has been strong and thatʼs not because Iʼm a genius or because we came up with a revolutionary new formula, but rather because of our amazing team: they dove into fixing past problems and fixing them fast! It was mostly a matter of getting back to the basics that have always worked for us: fulfilling our customersʼ needs via great presentations of strong national brands and value-priced store

̶Crawford Brock, Stanley Korshak

“We’ve had our fill of making changes and fixing things: our goal now is to build on our foundation by refining assortments and executing better.” ̶John Tighe, JCPenney brands (Arizona, Stafford, St. Johnʼs Bay, JF and Foundry). These store brands make up a healthy percentage of our mix and, after taking a big hit, theyʼre now performing well. (In fact, we had dropped St. Johnʼs Bay but our customers missed it, so we brought it back and itʼs doing great!) We have amazing design teams, here in Plano as well as in NYC; they find the best resources to ensure the best product and value. And weʼve built beautiful shops for these brands in our stores.

Doing particularly well: our modern JF suit separates (OTD in the $129 range) and furnishings. (Weʼre just bringing back the sportswear.) Young guys are dressing up

general, weʼve had our fill of making changes and fixing things: our job now is to build on what we have by refining assortments and executing better. We made a lot of changes when Mike Ullman came back and weʼve finally got our product mix to where customers want it. Our goal is to listen to our customers, maximize key items and make more money.

slimmer fits, guys from all age groups are wanting new jeans. Weʼre definitely seeing more traction on the tapered fits. (Of course, if customers want looser fits, Iʼm just as happy to sell them those.)

The average age of our customer is 50 to 51 but 34-year-olds are buying JF, so capturing millenials has been a nice success story for us. We have a robust social media presence, but we also do newspaper and direct mail. Our JF customer enjoys mall shopping: itʼs just a matter of having the right merchandise and presenting it in a dynamic setting.

For 2015, we ʻll have a 360-degree marketing campaign targeted to millenials. But in

home run, a game changer, and weʼll continue to build on this for 2015. In addition to exceeding plan, itʼs bringing young people into the store and already accounts for about 12 percent of our volume. The suits open at $399 and go up to $1,000. Since thereʼs still a considerable price gap between Suitsupply and Canali, which we recently added to our main store mix, weʼre considering adding another clothing brand in between the two. Fortunately, our luxury customers are not trading down to less expensive brands; instead, weʼre attracting new customers who will eventually trade up.

Our denim business has been strong: up 34 percent year to date. Weʼre not really a denim store but by pulling it all together, it gains impact and weʼll build on that into 2015.

Weʼre also looking to re-assort our main store collections by intensifying key categories (e.g. knits and sweaters) within each collection.

Finally, as categories gain and lose importance, weʼre re-allocating buying responsibilities to increase efficiencies.

FRED DERRING, DLS Our stores had a pretty good year with custom clothing, sportcoats and woven shirts. But in order to compete with vendors selling direct and all the discount websites, weʼre looking to build stronger classification stories, (e.g. athleisure, athletic, yoga, loungewear) and a stronger accessories presentation. We need to find younger attitude fashion, hire younger sellers and get a better handle on social media. www.MRketplace.com | MR 13

retailing DOUG EWERT, MENʼS WEARHOUSE Our successes for 2014:

We launched the Joseph Abboud brand in 800 stores.

We expanded the workforce in our New Bedford tailored clothing factory by 50 percent.

We borrowed $1.7 billion and acquired Joseph Bank.

We survived an eight-hour deposition with the FTC.

We led the successful assimilation and integration of 7,000 employees.

We hosted 13 company holiday parties.

I lost 10 pounds.

The changes I hope to implement in 2015:

Work smarter, not harder.

Eat less and lose more weight.

DAVID FISHER, BLOOMINGDALEʼS It was a very selective list of hot businesses in 2014. Outerwearʼs been strong, particularly Moncler and Canada Goose. And thereʼs been a definite acceptance of well-priced key items within sportswear collections; more youthful brands like Theory, Burberry Brit and Vince have been doing well as have certain parts of tailored, most notably Canali (our customers understand the value in this $1,800 suit).

The problem has been some of our more classic, broadly distributed brands: weʼve got big businesses with a few key players and when they stumble, itʼs tough to grow the total.

Since thereʼs clearly a changing of the guard from Baby Boomers to Gen X and Millennials, classic brands that havenʼt consistently updated are not doing as well. Also denim is down, mid-single digits, although certain brands like AG are running way up while other once-hot labels are down commensurately.

But the bigger problem is declining traffic, due to a widespread lack of urgency among

consumers. Business has become highly pricedriven, with competition from all channels.

Customers can simply punch in a coupon code on their cell phone and get whatever they want when they want it at a price. With so many ways to shop for less, we can no longer excite them with just promotional events.

So for 2015, weʼre coming up with events that are experiential rather than just price-driven. Meet this celebrity/actor/writer; come try a glass of scotch from a bottle of Glenfiddich dated 1794. Weʼre working on creating experiences both digitally and in store: We had

we need to ensure weʼre offering the fashion/price/value theyʼre looking for. Thereʼs a whole change of priorities and apparel in general is taking a hit. The Boomers are asking, “Why the hell do I need another suit and tie?” and the young guys have other things to spend money on. So we need to carefully reexamine every aspect of what weʼre doing. We plan to be more key item-oriented within collections. So if sweaters are key, weʼll show five rather than two styles and show them in depth, starting at more accessible price points.

Also for 2015, weʼre introducing Suitsupply in tailored clothing, a few collaborations in activewear, and weʼre building on our strong private label. We need to offer customers a clear value, the Bloomingdaleʼs way!

“These advanced contemporary guys TOM OTT, possess a buying SAKS FIFTH AVENUE power that I haven’t seen in my entire career. They’re attracted to fashion, willing to pay for it, and we’re seeing weekly sell-throughs of 10 to 20 percent!” ̶Tom Ott, Saks Fifth Avenue much success with our Icons of New York promotion where we showcased guys from different walks of life, looked into their closets and showed how clothes reflect a lifestyle.

Of course once we get customersʼ interest,

“With so many ways to shop for less, we can no longer excite customers with just price promotions. Our instore events need to be experiential as well.” ̶David Fisher, Bloomingdaleʼs

The biggest change in business is our dramatic growth under new management. We went from a mature business to a dynamic growing business, adding eight stores in the past year and a half and a remodeled flagship. We last tried to do this in the late-ʼ90s: Steve and Ron did a great job with limited capital but now under HBC, we can more readily fulfill the plan.

And business has been good! Itʼs been a nice year in menʼs driven by this new advanced contemporary customer. Luxury is still performing, and our private brand (priced 20 percent higher than opening price but offering tremendous value) has become our biggest vendor.

As for attracting young customers: It took us three years to figure out the formula so Iʼm not giving it away here. But I will say that you need a whole different multi-channel marketing approach including print, digital and social media. Itʼs got to be 360 degrees, current and consistent. Weʼre doing it and itʼs working!

Continue on page 25

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“Never confuse movement with action.”

Ernest Hemingway is a trademark of Hemingway, Ltd, New York, New York 10001, USA and is used under license

–Ernest Hemingway

Vanguards Gallery New York & Las Vegas ERNEST HEMINGWAY 463 Seventh Avenue Suite 703 New York NY 10018 Phone: 212 695 6140 Fax: 212 262 3199 Contact: VINCE GONZALES vinceg@hemingwayuomo.com

survey

2014 MENSWEAR VOLUME

BY CATEGORY (ALL STORES)

B

*Shoes, Accessories, Grooming

MENSWEAR RETAIL SURVEY:

MUCH PAIN,

FEW GAINS

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

2014

OPERATING

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STATISTICS

y most retailer accounts, it was an unexciting year in menswear. According to an MR survey of menswear execs and analysts from department and specialty stores, the lack of a compelling new item or trend resulted in year-end sales that were flat to just slightly ahead. Thirty percent of responding merchants admitted to decreases vs. last year; another 20 percent broke even and the other half averaged low single-digit gains that were generally below plan.

Analyzing the business by category, tailored clothing was a mixed bag (up in some stores, down in others) while furnishings took the hardest hit, a tough year for both dress shirts and neckwear. Among independents, made to measure is an increasingly important part of the mix, averaging 22 percent of total clothing sales in stores that carry it. That said, several stores did well with off-the-rack suits and expect the momentum to continue. “After five years of sportswear increases, thereʼs a shift in the other direction,” reports industry analyst Danny Paul. “Trim-fit clothing has given tailored a much needed lift.”

“Weʼre at the end of the slim-fit cycle,” counters industry consultant Steve Pruitt. “The juice has been squeezed out of the lemon, but after five-plus years of pushing slim, stores are reluctant to show loose.”

Yet consumer desire for relaxed fashion is evident in sportswear, with gains reported in activewear, athleisure and knit layering pieces. With a few notable exceptions, denim business is off (“the distressed styles weʼre seeing in Europe are not for us,” writes one merchant; “Knit denim looks promising,” predicts another). Traditional polos and khakis are also flat to down (although some stores still do well with updated prep brands). In upscale specialty stores, key sportswear items have included cardigans, quilted vests, five-pocket pants with stretch, cool footwear, accessories and “anything new.” Outerwear has been a home run across the board, with Canada Goose a notable success story at regular price (the lesson here: limited distribution). “Modern sportswear at moderate prices,” notably missing in menswear, was mentioned on several retailersʼ wish lists.

A goal for most respondents is attracting Millennials; to do so, many are stepping up social media. “But this has had limited results,” writes one respondent. “Itʼs more important that your products and marketing reflect youthful tastes.

Without the right merchandise, youʼre wasting your time.”

Another retailer tactic: hiring young sellers. As one respondent noted, “If you want talented and dedicated sellers who will stay, you have to pay them. But what better investment in your storeʼs future?”

While e-commerce is adding a new dimension for most major stores, itʼs still minimal for independents, averaging three to four percent of total sales. “The internet canʼt make customers feel special and that still matters,” notes retail consultant Danny Paul. Other merchants admit that they just havenʼt gotten around to it.

Obviously, the major factor impacting sales and profits these days is the continued proliferation of price promotions, but some experts believe weʼre reaching a peak, that a new generation prefers unique “artisan-inspired” product and a cool shopping environment (in store or online) over a great deal on broadly distributed stuff they donʼt really need.

Fewer price promotions? Dream on...

ITALY@

Special Advertorial Section

MR Magazine takes a look at the brands of Made In Italy at the MRket NY show scheduled for Monday, January 19 to Wednesday, January 21, 2015 at the Javits Center in New York City.

PIETRO PROVENZALE BOOTH 422

Pietro Provenzale is an Italian company of sartorial tradition, that has made research and service its philosophy.

MONTECHIARO

ITALO FERRETTI

BOOTH 217

A modern and sporty

BOOTH 325

lifestyle collection inspired

Made in Italy

by the nautical world.

masterpieces of timeless style..

ALESSANDRO GHERARDI BOOTH 104

Easy chic soft velvet shirts.

TACCALITI SHIRTS BOOTH 231

BELTS + DI PIAZZA STEFANO BOOTH 235

100% Italian artisan product,

The Taccaliti com-

created from the best Italian

pany offers a wide

vegetable cow and calf…

selection of shirts

quality is our philosophy.

made with the finest Italian fabrics.

ALESSANDRO SIMONI BOOTH 218

Alessandro Simoni is a knitting factory equipped with all the most recent equipments and electronics. The company specializes in knitting and finishing precious yarn cashmere, including double and reversibles, and sea island cottons silks.

TARDIA BOOTH 232

Tardia is a synonym for tailoring, style and Italian tradition where quality is a priority. Each coat is designed and produced exclusively in Italy according to tailoring criteria.

MARCHESI DI COMO BOOTH 318

The manufacturer of exquisite Italian neck-

BARBISIO CERVO

wear, pocket squares

BOOTH 124

and dress shirts,

Barbisio hats are

Marchesi Di Como is

exclusively handmade since

a collection with

1862; a tradition that contin-

great colors, blending

ues through a new style of

American preppy

the times.

with Italian timeless luxury.

LORENZONI BOOTH 217

Updated and elegant styles for the ones who want to be on track with the latest fashion mood.

RAGUSA 1970 BOOTH 114

GIMO’S

Ramas is a global luxury

BOOTH 213

clothing company offer-

Leather and fabric jackets

ing quality and top finish

that defy the ordinary with

for a modern lifestyle.

their simple elegance and

Founded in Southern Italy

exclusivity.

by Ragusa Family, Ramas specializes in overcoats, pea coats, raincoats, duffle coats all made in the family’s factory in Italy.

JANUARY 2015 MRKETNY

CAPRI BOOTH 423

Inspired by the magic of 1960s, reinterpreted for the modern day.

Capri features refined white patterned and

LUCIANO MORESCO

jacquard materials, micro-stripes and diago-

BOOTH 106

nal, geometrical and

Luciano Moresco’s love affair with whim-

fancy micro-prints and

sical shirts is well known and the afi-

feather jackets in un-

cionado won’t be disappointed.

conventional wools.

HERESIS BOOTH 123

BULGARINI

Heresis collections

BOOTH 111

are entirely made

Bulgarini Camicie is an Italian brand that has produced shirts for over twenty years. Bulgarini represents high quality, made from the best Italian cloth.

in Italy. They are realized with refinement of styling and tailor-made manufacturing.

All fabrics and a ccessories are of the most prestigious quality.

BRESCIANI

IMPULSO BOOTH 217

BOOTH 110

From the exclusive

High-end, made in

nautical world. Every

Italy hosiery and

style is accurately

underwear for men.

developed with a lot a details. Nevertheless the line is smooth, sportive

DI BELLO

BY NIPAL

but not aggressive.

BOOTH 331

The ultimate leather and shearling source for custom-made suedes, leathers and goose downs for men and women.

LECROWN MILANO BOOTH 431

Cool, stylish and comfortable, LeCrown is an Italian shoe brand well known In Italy for desert boots designed with timeless style but trend-setting. All products are manufactured in Italy, handcrafted to charm and allure people’s fashion sense.

KENNET STREET BOOTH 418

Kennet Street is a contemporary, highfashion, sportswear line that brings invention and Italian class to casual wear, distributed in over 22 countries.

LANDI 070 STUDIO BOOTH 336

A contemporary sportswear collection that uses innovative, technical solutions and highperformance fabrics that knowingly follow the body’s movement.

MASSIMILIANO STANCO BOOTH 116

Exclusive products of exceptional quality and refinement crafted by high-skilled artisans.

DINO BIGIONI BOOTH 322

Men and women’s high-end, shoes, entirely made in Italy.

CROCLUX BOOTH 220

Croclux's products are made in Italy and hand crafted by experienced artisans.

DOLCEPUNTA BOOTH 102 100% hand-made. 100% made in Italy. 100% sartorial ties.

GIANMARCO MORA BOOTH 324

Gianmarco Mora is an innovative collection for men who love to dress up.

JANUARY 2015 MRKETNY SILVIO FIORELLO BOOTH 236

Since 1986 Silvio Fiorello has produced the finest quality Italian handmade neckwear and silk accessories. The F/W 15-16 collection will present a world of silk with new lines of silk pajamas, silk robes,

UMBERTO VALLATI

silk slippers and silk shoes.

BOOTH 237

Umberto Vallati celebrates 50 years in business. The strength of the brand comes from special design for the man who loves the luxury of true made in Italy product.

GERMANO

BAGNOLI SARTORIA NAPOLI

BOOTH 424

The next AW15 collection is characterized by freshness and innovation, inspired by

BOOTH 426

the colors of our land and tra-

Adds innovation to

dition mixed with blue, tan,

tailoring tradition.We

green, ochre and various

use selected italian

shades of grey.

fabrics for a contemporary style and confortable fit.

SINCLAIR BOOTH 334

Leather garments of highest standard of quality meeting the needs of a refined and sophisticated man.

ITALWEAR/ ANDREA BOSSI REPORTER BOOTH 414

BOOTH 330

A sportswear collection made of the highest quality fabrics;

Reporter targets a

with particular attention to the

young, refined man. It

details, design and style re-

is designed to be

flecting the best of the Italian

comfortable for a

heritage.

elegant traveler.

This brilliant made in Italy collection offers a competitive price and a wide proposal.

GERMANO GHERGO BOOTH 108 Contemporary fashion knitwear line, designed and made in Italy.

RENCO DAL 1926 BOOTH 120

RENCO, is an Italian brand founded in 1926. Renco produces oversize clothing for men inlcuding suits, jackets, trousers, shirts, knitwear and underwear.

We pay careful attention to every detail of our products, made from the highest quality fabrics in Italy.

HOMAND BOOTH 432

Homand is a new vision of menswear for a modern man. It mixes contemporary and classic in the tradition of luxury men’s tailoring and attention to details, the rules of good fit and above all attention to the essence of fabrics and raw materials.

VITALIANO BOOTH 112

Vitaliano’s Ties are handmade from pure silk fabrics.

The collection features colourful prints and formal accessories like shirts, ties, bow ties, cummerbunds and

MARINI SILVANO

scarves from jacquard and satin silk fabrics with Swarovski crystal trimmings.

BOOTH 118

Marini Silvano means passion for one’s own work and balance between tradition and innovation.

GIOSBRUN BOOTH 326 GiosBrun Roma Parioli collection is the harmonious result of the research between elegance and contemporary, breaking out in a natural way through the new modern style.

VALSTAR BOOTH 434

The first company to introduce the “raincoat” in Italy, Val-

VILLA DELMITIA BOOTH 320

The Villa Delmitia collection comprises an elegant selection of top

star became famous for creating iconic styles such as the

quality men’s pajamas, dressing

suede unlined blouson and the safari jacket. Sartorial preci-

gowns, night shirts and smoking

sion, fabric innovation, functionalism married with design:

jackets, as well as a wide range

these are the marks of Valstar.

of accessories like scarves in pure silk or backed with 100% cashmere, ties, ascots, boxer shorts, plaids cashmere/wool/silk.

JANUARY 2015 MRKETNY MONTALIANI BOOTH 119

Montaliani shirts, established in 1992, where tailoring and luxury go hand in hand.

G. MANZONI/ALPETORA BOOTH 210

Alpetora 2015 Fall/Winter collection is exquisitely tailored with the finest cloths from Biela, Italy. The colors and tones are warm and rich. With an extensive in-stock catalog of luxurious sportcoats, suits and trousers.

JAGGY

CALIBAN

BOOTH 532

CALABRESE 1924 BOOTH 222

Neapolitan artisanal ties, scarves, hankerchiefs and luggage, made with the best italian fabric . 4° generation of artisans.

BOOTH 319

JAGGY collection is

CALIBAN presents

a great mix of

the Man collection:

amazing colors, the

shirting made with

main feature of the

fine yarns, soft fin-

brand. The core

ishes , contempo-

business of the

rary volumes and

brand is trouser,

geometries telling

mostly five pockets

of an elegance

but a lot of differ-

timeless.

ents styles and high quality fabrics form the collection.

PAOLO ALBIZZATI BOOTH 230

All neckwear is exclusively made in Italy in the factory established by Paolo Albizzati and run by Albizzati family. The brand is identified by an elegant sense of colors, modern proportions and research of new fabrics and techniques beyond all limits.

INGRAM BOOTH 414

One of Italy’s finest shirt la-

PULITO ABBIGLIAMENTO DAL 1885 BOOTH 121

A collection entirely designed and tailored in the south of Italy,following all the rules of the sartorial tailoring to obtain an high quality product,made with the highest quality textiles.

bels, focused on classic and sport-chic models with great attention to details and quality. Ingram offers a wide selection of fabrics like cotton two-plied checks and striped patterns.

FLY3 BOOTH 233

The heart of the collection are the reversible garments in their 2SHADE, Whitley and Weatherproof versions, shown in different

TINO COSMA. BOOTH 430

Tino Cosma is the expression of tradition, the innovator of impeccable elegance, quality and detail. The precious fabrics and exclusive designs are Tino Cosma marks of distinction.

Italian luxury since 1946.

yarns and gauges.

The collection features comfortable ribbed sweaters with a handknit look, light

DI MAESTRO

merinos and 100% cashmere knits.

BOOTH 415

A luxurious, contemporary Italian-made collection.

GALLOTTI BOOTH 315

Gallotti was founded in 1965 by two brothers, Francesco and Orlando. Driven by their experience and talent in tailoring, they launched their own leather business in the surrounding areas of Florence. The interest and admiration for the quality and handcrafted products cradled by the renowned Florence manufacturing, has led Galloti to the luxury fashion market.

FERRANTE BOOTH 224

SANI GUALTIERO FIRENZE-ALLIGATOR LINE BOOTH 323

Availability in stock of coordinated small leathergoods and belts. 100% handmade in Italy realized with precious and exotic

ARCURI TIES BOOTH 127

Arcuri does not share the world’s mad obsession for quantity; rather, they prefer to show a limited number of products, allowing them to monitor the creation of every one of their ties.

ANGELO NARDELLI 1951 BOOTH 223

For season, Cinquantuno, one of the lines of the new ANGELO NARDELLI collection, shows colors and fabrics which reflect back to English and Scottish traditions.

Focused on providing the customer with comfort , refinement, and elegance.

retailing Continued from page 14

The good news: not only is it all plus sales for us, but these young fashion guys possess a buying power that I havenʼt seen in my entire career. Theyʼre attracted to fashion, willing to pay for it, and weʼre seeing sell-throughs of 10 to 20 percent a week! The next venture: to get these guys into tailored clothing and furnishings.

Theyʼre buying some slimmer suits and shirts but weʼve not yet cracked the neckwear component.

MARIO BISIO, MARIOʼS Our menswear mission for the past several years has been communicating to men how much better they can look when they put themselves together well. Our pillar brands̶Zegna, Cucinelli, Isaia̶ continue to drive sales and continue to grow. We encourage guys to try total looks so they understand how the right pieces can work together. Itʼs all about wardrobing: a recipe is less likely to be fabulous if youʼre missing a key ingredient.

That said, for 2015, we plan to narrow assortments in order to buy deeper into the items we believe in: five-pocket pants, outerwear, knitwear, softcoats. Itʼs easier to sell the winners when you have sizes.

KEN GUSHNER, BOYDS For us, 2014 heralded a resurgence in tailored clothing (which is about 60 percent of our business); thereʼs no single driving brand or trend, but made to measure has become more important to us over the last couple of years.

We also saw a major uptick in luxury outerwear (brands like Brioni, Zegna, Isaia, Loro Piana and even a price level or two down).

Within sportswear, denim has definitely slowed and sweaters have not been great, but sport shirts are still good and collections are selling across the board. I think business today is less brand-driven; the name on the store is whatʼs key. And it hasnʼt been driven by a new look or trend since there isnʼt one: slim fit has been around for many years now so itʼs already factored into the equation.

I believe our business is good because 1) the city itself is doing well, and 2) weʼre consistently focused on the basics: product, service and the overall in-store experience. Itʼs so easy to get distracted and overwhelmed with in-store events, social media, magazines, marketing and e-commerce (weʼve been deficient in this; weʼre trying to address it). This year we focused on day-in, day-out execution and fortuntately, itʼs working for us.

But going forward, the main excitement is a major overhaul of the entire store. Weʼre working with an architect and itʼs a huge project, to begin in January 2016. Weʼll give the first floor and mezzanine to womenʼs and totally revamp the second and third floors for menswear. There will be some vendor shops but itʼs not about that: itʼs about function and aesthetics (modern and cool) and if it doesnʼt work, Iʼll be at your doorstep with a tin cup. www.MRketplace.com | MR 25

hot topics

Most Unlikely Retail Hot Spot

Last seasonʼs runways were drenched with bucket hats: Burberry, Dsquared and Canali to name a few. The cylindrical chapeau has been kicked back into action since its last notable jaunt during the “golden age of hip hop” on the heads of such icons as LL Cool J and Run DMC. Perhaps the trend will again fall back into obscurity, but the kids seem to like it, and in the interests of full disclosure, we shot a Baracuta bucket hat for our London Look fashion (page 58). It was Black Watch plaid, and it matched the Black Watch plaid shirt by Ben Sherman and Pendleton, so it was a perfect fit. But maybe itʼs time to kick the bucket...

Affordable Luxury?

In honor of MRʼs 25th anniversary year, weʼve compiled the 25 hot topics for 2015.

The proliferation of outlet stores is by now a fact of life. They are the key to growth for luxury department stores (Neimanʼs, Saks, Nordstrom) as well as for upscale brands like Coach, Michael Kors and Ralph Lauren. Not only are todayʼs outlets highly productive, they now feature in-season, full size-range assortments of desirable fashion, a far cry from yesterdayʼs end-season clearance goods.

Whether or not consumers realize that most of the product in outlets is manufactured explicitly for the outlets (meaning that most of it has never seen the selling floor of the parent store) is a moot point. For some reason, shoppers still believe theyʼre getting a deal and like most things in life, perception becomes reality. At least for awhile.

In Canada, with a total population of 35.5 million, there could soon be more retailers than consumers! The recent invasion of U.S. stores (Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Lord & Taylor, possibly Neiman Marcus) should be interesting, especially since Canadian-based stores have strengthened their defenses, raising the bar on product, presentation, ecommerce, customer service, marketing and technology. Harry Rosen, with 16 stores in eight cities including a $4 million outlet in a Toronto suburb, now boasts North Americaʼs first sales associate whoʼs actually a human hologram. Holt Renfrew, with 12 stores in nine cities, has a new separate menʼs store across from Rosen in Toronto. And by most accounts Hudsonʼs Bay (new owner of Saks and Lord & Taylor) looks stronger than ever.

So while all eyes are on the U.S.based newcomers, weʼre betting on a home court advantage: you know those Canadians!

Always in Fashion

Weʼre proud of the huge percentage of menswear companies that give back to those in need. We salute Kenneth Cole for starting it all more than 30 years ago: his Look Good, For Good company has supported many great causes while inspiring others. These include Tailor Byrd (supporting families and communities in Bangladesh), Will Leather Goods (donating filled backpacks to innercity schools), Barbour (their warm coat drive in numerous U.S. cities distributed gently used coats, plus brand new Barbour sweaters and shirts) and the many independent stores that do so much for so many. Then there are major corporations like PVH, Macyʼs and Belk that not only donate big bucks but also encourage their employees to volunteer within their communities.

Making us especially proud are the myriad organizations that make brand new clothing available to those who canʼt afford it: Suited for Work, Fashion Delivers and Dignity U Wear (at left, supporting the Santa Train) are three of our favorites. Contact us for more info on these terrific charities: more than the tax write-off, theyʼre changing lives!

26 MR | www.MRketplace.com

STOCK PHOTOS FROM SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

A Questionable Trend

Crowd Funding

We get pitches every day from new companies touting the funds theyʼve raised on crowd funding sites like Kickstarter. But does rounding up the cash make them viable?

Despite apparent success stories like Ministry of Supply ($429,276), Mizzen + Main ($54,568) and The 10-Year Hoodie ($1,053,830!), how do start-ups turn their ideas and funding into a revenue-generating business?

We think it takes more than a vision and some cash to turn an idea into a business. But the more cash, the better.... For example, after its second stint on Kickstarter (raising $204,601), Ministry of Supply raised $1.4M in convertible notes from 2012 to 2013 led by Zappos CEO Tony

For the Boys In the darkest days of menswear, when bow ties were a quaint affectation and pleated khakis were workplace norms, the menʼs department was typically relegated to a far-off floor. And then things started changing, slowly at first. While traditional menswear seemed to be disappearing among older men, younger guys were rediscovering it. J. Crew opened its game-changing menswear shop, the Liquor Store, in NYC in 2008. Gilt Groupe launched a separate menʼs site in 2010. In Toronto this year, the luxury retailer Holt Renfrew decided to go head to head with menswear retailer Harry Rosen, opening its first all-menʼs store just down the street. And then the womenʼs yogawear retailer Lululemon announced it was opening a shop for guys. Suddenly, opening menʼs stores isnʼt daring anymore; itʼs just good business.

Hsieh, followed by $2.65M in 2014. All of which rolled into $4M Series-Seed equity round in 2014, giving them the ability to make and market a full range of menswear products, increasing their odds of becoming a viable brand.

Growth in Growth

Payment Evolution

The menʼs grooming boom fed by shaving products made taking care of oneʼs skin and hair masculine again. Guys who never washed their faces outside the shower are spending $20 or more on facial cleansers made and marketed specifically to them. Double-edged razors and badger brushes sit alongside a half-dozen brands of menʼs shaving creams at menʼs stores.

Sadly, the beard-as-fashion trend threatened the momentum of the grooming renaissance. “Your beard is killing the shaving industry” scolded one headline. But happily, the grooming industry adjusted. Beard oil, beard shampoos, conditioners and a whole new crop of trimming devices have taken up some of the slack and ensured the boom will go on.

Apple Pay, the streamlined payment service featured on new iPhones, made big headlines last fall, but the shift away from traditional transactions was already well underway. From Bitcoin, the internet-based currency created in 2009, to the emergence of so-called digital wallet technology, the way we buy stuff is changing fast. Whatʼs a digital wallet? Itʼs a personal app-based payment system that effortlessly and instantaneously trades myriad forms of currency (from dollars to airline miles, bitcoins to euros) giving you the best up-to-theminute rate. Thatʼs right: airline miles have value, just like money. Weʼre not far from loyalty programs from big retailers evolving into a form of virtual currency thatʼs not tied to any government. www.MRketplace.com | MR 27

hot topics

The Rise of Content

With websites like YouTube and Facebook topping the global traffic ranks, and blogs continuing to proliferate even as naysayers fling around vicious words like over-saturated, hack and even blogger, it seems that in many respects, content is king. Social media has enabled the worldʼs billions to share content across continents, and share it they do. (Just look at Kim Kardashianʼs generous assets that “broke the internet” courtesy of Paper Magazine.) Content has become a key part of a successful marketing strategy; both retailers and brands are producing content, from Mr Porter Post to Nikeʼs Gear Up campaign, engaging a contentdriven consumer.

A Dedicated NYC Men’s Fashion Week?

While we Americans rarely find ourselves eating other countriesʼ dust, the lack of a dedicated menswear schedule has confounded the industry for years. We sat idly by as the British Fashion Council joined forces with Topman and Fashion East to create London Collections: Men, a dedicated four-day event headlined by some of the biggest brands in the industry. Erin Hawkerʼs New York Menʼs Day was a leap in the right direction, and while it still seems odd that the CFDA wasnʼt already on that, it looks like they might finally be catching up and coming to New York soon. Bravo boys; about time.

#Menswear Thereʼs lots of good news about social media for the menʼs industry: it not only helped create a global network for #Menswear aficionados to share information and connect with each other, it also leveled the playing field for independent retailers on tight marketing budgets.

But itʼs changing fast. Facebook has started charging marketers to reach more fans, and if that wasnʼt enough, its demographic has been skewing older as younger people abandon it for newer and shinier networks. Increasingly cynical social media users are beginning to resent being marketed at while they interact with their friends.

Smart retailers and brands play it cool, the same way they approach shoppers in stores: creating beautiful spaces with unique products that lure us in gently.

The Guy-Friendly Anti-Shopping Concept While the days of mothers, wives and girlfriends dressing their men may be slowly disappearing, shopping has yet to establish itself firmly on the manʼs list of pleasant weekend pastimes. Itʼs still eschewed as more of a chore. The anti-shopping concepts of personal stylist services like NEED, Trunk Club and StyleLab have capitalized on this with websites and apps that deliver stylish outfits right to your door. No more leg-work then, and more time left for lifeʼs more important quandaries. Packers or Patriots?

28 MR | www.MRketplace.com

hot topics

Most Challenging Target Market

ISTOCK.COM

GENERATIONZ.COM.AU

Generation Z, with an alleged attention span of eight seconds.

Enough Already!

They might be Hot Topics, but weʼre so tired of reading about: Pop-up shops (already a $50 billion industry), curated assortments (shouldnʼt all assortments be curated?), cautious optimism (Why canʼt we be recklessly optimistic? Or just plain optimistic?), omni-channel (virtually all retail is now omnichannel), Black Friday and Cyber Monday (for how much longer can retailers audaciously tell customers when to shop?), targeting Millennials (if everyone is targeting Millennials, the greater opportunity is likely other age brackets), bad excuses for bad business. The weather, the economy, politics, epidemics and wars are not in our control; letʼs focus on things we CAN change: our mix, our marketing, our attitude!

Recognition Technology Itʼs fast becoming the norm in retail. These days, when customers see a look they like on friends or celebrities, they can simply snap it and instantly find a store or site that carries it (without the archaic inconvenience of scanning bar codes). Macyʼs, Neiman Marcus, Lord & Taylor and Nordstrom have all launched photo recognition applications this past year.

Lots of Great Reads...

We highly recommend the updated version (coming out this spring) of Hug Your Customers by Jack Mitchell, originally published 10 years ago and clearly the bible for personalized selling. We couldnʼt put down Martin Greenfieldʼs Measure of a Man, a compelling book on how, as a young boy, he survived the horror of Nazi concentration camps to eventually come to Brooklyn and start a successful clothing business, and ultimately became tailor to presidents and superstars. (Greenfield was liberated from the camps by General Eisenhower and years later crafted suits for President Eisenhower!) Mark Weberʼs Always in Fashion (out this month) offers down-to-earth advice on business success from the former chairman and CEO of Donna Karan Intl. And Terry Aginsʼ highly acclaimed Hijacking the Runway is a fun and fascinating read on how celebrities are stealing the limelight from fashion designers.

Despair not, menswear execs nearing retirement: you can always write a book!

30 MR | www.MRketplace.com

Transparent Menswear

Collaborations Cult brand Supreme has worked on collaborative projects with an innumerable amount of notable people and brands: artist Jeff Koons, Timberland, The North Face, Oakley, Nike, Clarks, Leviʼs, Comme des Garçons...the list goes on...and on.

“Free agent” Nick Wooster is another who collaborates with a spectrum of brands and retailers (Birchbox, Lardini, Woolmark, United Arrows, Leffot), seemingly without getting tired. These collaborations are certainly creating demand (e.g. lines of guys waiting outside the NYC Supreme store before a new release), but at what point do collaborations (or the collaborator) become oversaturated? More importantly, what makes a good match?

(In photo, Thom Browne and Mr Porter, a recent home run!)

Companies like Bonobos, Warby Parker and Everlane are trying to debunk the traditional retail model for consumers. Everlaneʼs founder Michael Preysman explained why in MRʼs February issue: “We want to show our customers the supply chain so they feel

OM

CK.C

ISTO

When Will Mobile Shopping Overtake Other Channels?

At present, mobile is 19 percent of all e-commerce sales and e-commerce is 8.4 percent of total sales, (up from 7.6 percent last year). But given that 80 percent of 18 to 34 year olds own smart phones that they check 150 times per day (and that theyʼre never more than three feet away from), itʼs a safe bet that mobile shopping will accelerate. Quickly.

confident buying from us. We post photos of each factory and give them information, so they can see how products are made, where the factoryʼs located, who owns it, etc.” Everlane also explains their margins and model, showing consumers how much it actually costs to make something, and how much traditional retailers are marking up products.

Good for Everlane! (Not so good for traditional retailers...)

So Few Great Ads

Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger campaigns are classics̶still visually powerful but hardly innovative. Kenneth Cole still scores points for some clever copy lines. Countess Mara generated buzz with their recent tailgating ad, part of a series of photos (of real guys, by real guys) thatʼs running in The New York Times Magazine. Joe Boxer for Kmart gets points for featuring four guys in pajama bottoms with exposed beer bellies: realistic, somewhat amusing and certainly memorable.

But letʼs face it: most menswear ads these days are strictly aspirational, featuring beautiful but boring-looking guys (often with facial hair, a lame attempt to appear cool) in boring-looking suits. Why so few ads with wit or humor? An image from a recent Isaia print campaign showing a baby peeing on his well-dressed young dad was actually censored by U.S. retailers for showing the infantʼs private parts. (The revised version hid the offending parts.) If we canʼt get beyond this puritanical nonsense, how will we ever create ads that are compelling, or at the very least, memorable? With all the talent in our industry, we can do better!

www.MRketplace.com | MR 31

hot topics

Bigger Than Texas

According to many observers, the pendulum in fashion capitals has already swung back to looser fits. Says industry analyst Steve Pruitt, “Trendsetters in Europe are not wearing skinny clothing, nor are fashion-forward stores featuring extreme cuts. Consequently, store windows showing really tight suits with narrow lapels are starting to look dated. Yet when I suggest to American retailers that itʼs time to loosen up, theyʼre reluctant. It took them five or more years to get their male customers into fitted clothing; theyʼre not keen on confusing the issue just yet.”

LUIGI BIANCHI MANTOVA

Loosen Up?

Women on Top? Although a glance at current retail rosters still sees few women in number-one positions at major stores (in addition to Kathy Bufano and Paula Schneider, thereʼs Neiman Marcus CEO Karen Katz, HSM CEO Mindy Grossman, TJX CEO Carol Meyrowitz, Saks president Marigay McKee, Lord & Taylor and Hudsonʼs Bay president Liz Rodbell and a few others), itʼs heartening to note that female execs are swelling the ranks at the next (EVP) level. Will this mean a kinder, gentler approach to the retail business any time soon? Definitely not! These women are as tough as they are savvy and weʼre hoping for more like them in the very near future.

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Stag arrived on the Austin, Texas menswear scene in 2009 without too much fanfare. The industrial hunting lodge aesthetic, coupled with ruggedly masculine brands like RRL and Red Wing, sat comfortably with everyone from the Texan everyman to the more stylishly inclined southern gent. MR recognized their talent in 2012 with an Uptown Downtown Award, and now five years after they opened their doors, Stag has not one, not two, but three stores in three cities, and will open a fourth this month.

We salute them.

Incoming Gap Inc. CEO Art Peck

CEO Shake-Ups 2014 was a year of CEO churn, with half a dozen major retailers left without permanent chief executives over the summer: American Apparel ousted the controversial and creepy Dov Charney; American Eagle Outfitters CEO Robert Hanson left suddenly in January after an apparent campaign against him by the companyʼs old guard; Bon-Tonʼs Brendan Hoffman surprised everyone by not renewing his contract; Dollar Generalʼs spectacularly successful chief Rick Dreiling announced plans to retire; Jeff Gordman, longtime CEO of the 95-store Gordmans chain, said heʼs leaving to spend time with family; JCPenneyʼs returning CEO Mike Ullman made it clear heʼd only stay to right the ship; and Targetʼs Gregg Steinhafel resigned after nearly four decades with the company in a year of turmoil.

But as we begin 2015, some new leaders are settling in. In August Kathy Bufano took over at Bon-Ton and Brian Cornell joined Target; in November Marvin Ellison joined JCPenney (and will succeed Ullman at the end of this summer); Paula Schneider just joined American Apparel and Art Peck officially takes over at Gap Inc. next month.

The Ultimate Revenge Joseph Abboudʼs continually evolving deal with Menʼs Wearhouse gave him back his name, his factory, his status...and now some beautiful new stores. Abboud was named chief creative director of TMW in December 2012; six months later, TMW acquired the label from JW Childʼs for $97.5 million and itʼs been uphill for Abboud (and Menʼs Wearhouse) ever since. As one of the true talents in menswear (whoʼs also the force behind HBCʼs Black Brown label), Joseph Abboud is still one to watch in 2015.

PREP ESSENTIALS An MR Magazine Special Section January 2015

Illustrator: Sunflowerman

prep essentials

GENERATION PREP How a timeless trend is capturing the attention (and disposable income) of younger consumers.

By Elise Diamantini

W

e all know younger customers are fickle, not especially brand loyal and likely buying technology before clothes...or are they?

Preppy brands and retailers are finding that these younger customers are engaged and shopping, but itʼs all about creating a fun lifestyle around this modern prep style. “Younger consumers are going to shop wherever theyʼre having a fun experience,” says Steve Glasgow, cofounder of Country Club Prep, an e-commerce site that sells preppy menʼs and womenʼs wear. “They can buy a lot of our brands at so many different locations; thatʼs why we donʼt just throw up a product shot with a few specs. We try to make it entertaining and humorous. Weʼre trying to cast ourselves as irreverently preppy and never stuffy. We want to make prep accessible and fun so the exclusivity is more tonguein-cheek than real.”

Glasgow says he and co- The Brotherhood founder Matt Watson of the Traveling Pants wearing launched Country Club Prep Vineyard Vines partly because they saw a revival in preppy style. He explains, “Now thereʼs this positive connotation around prep. It has a vibrant, young attitude. We wanted to reach a consumer a bit younger than the traditional shopper.

Launching online, we had to.”

At Belk, a chain of regional department stores in the South, the preppy customer is that same demographic: college students or young professionals skewing slightly younger and older.

Sportswear VP/DMM David Mihalko says the brands that this customer is attracted to are the usual suspects: Polo Ralph Lauren and Vineyard Vines, but also Southern ̶Steve Glasgow, Proper and their recent launch of Bonobos. “Heʼs drawn to these brands due to color and the ability to dress the look up or go more casual,” says Mihalko. “In pants, he prefers straight and now even slim-straight fits, color in the appropriate hues, and we see five-pocket styles growing. In wovens, he likes bold plaids or ginghams, but also wears cotton oxfords in solids and patterns. Typically he dresses it up with completer pieces of cotton sportcoats, quarter-zip layering knits or lightweight sweaters (in the South)̶all with complementary touches of color. He adds accessories

with a bow tie and now suspenders. When he is casual he reaches for a long-sleeve branded tee and fleece vest or full-zip jacket and clean denim (in fall); in spring he adds a shorter short paired back to rolledsleeve wovens or tees, again all in color.”

Von Maur, the Midwest department store chain, reports strong sales from preppy brands like Vineyard Vines, Southern Tide, Lacoste, Penguin, and even Ben Sherman. Von Maurʼs menʼs GMM Kristen Anderson says the difference between prep and modern prep is fashion and fit. She elaborates, “A lot of the elements that make a preppy look are items and styles that most guys have been wearing for years. Every guy owns a polo shirt, but the modern guy wants it more fitted or with a certain fashion element that will give it a fresh look.”

Color is such an important part of modern prep, as is reaching consumers through social media. The key is for the brands to be as authentic as possible, winning younger consumersʼ trust rather than just trying to sell them something. The perfect example of creating a colorful, fun vibe through social is a recent campaign with Vineyard Vines and a group of six friends who call themselves “The Brotherhood of the Traveling Pants.” It happened organically, when the group of Vineyard Vines-loving friends (who had only 41 Instagram followers at the time) reached out to the brand with an idea. Ian Murray recalls, “One of these kids wore a pair of our orange Breaker pants and his buddies were making fun of them, and the next morning they started takCountry Club Prep ing pictures of everyone wearing these orange pants doing crazy things; it became this whole thing about where a pair of pants can take you. We thought the idea was awesome and wanted to turn it into something fun. So through our brandʼs lens, we helped them tell their story: a group of best friends who did all of these hilarious activities all summer long wearing our Breaker pant.

Itʼs the perfect example of how to market this preppy trend on social to a younger demo.” At press time, The Brotherhood of the Traveling Pants had over 10,000 followers.

“Thereʼs this revival of preppy style: it now has a positive connotation and a vibrant, young attitude.”

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prep essentials

Done right, social media proves to be a great way to connect with consumers. For an online business like Country Club Prep, itʼs one of the primary connections to their customers. Glasgow says itʼs how they learn what their customers want. “Theyʼll tell us about brands that we might not carry. Itʼs also how we learned that Facebook was dead to them and that Instagram was the way to connect. Facebook is not cool for the college kid. My mom is on Facebook and their mom is too. Theyʼre on Instagram and Snap Chat. We havenʼt figured out a way to take advantage of Snap Chat yet, but weʼre trying.”

So where do brands and retailers connect offline? College Campuses are the place to be. Mihalko talks about Belkʼs recent partnership with Polo on a style guide targeted at college students. He says they were distributed at key campuses and online.

Brand Ambassador programs are yet another way to reach college students on campus. Country Club Prep (which launched in 2012) now has over 500 ambassadors. “We found that people identify with our brand and want free things, so we offer a rewards program. Weʼre running a competition now where weʼre giving away a $500 gift card to the site for the ambassador who can drive the most sales through a points system.

For example, ambassadors will get 100 points if they post a photo of themselves wearing CCP products on social media. Itʼs just a way to keep people engaged and have fun with it. We want to hit that college age group because thatʼs when people really firm up their style, and we want to keep them as customers for years to come.”

Vineyard Vines also has a robust program. Ian explains, “We were amazed at the loyal following that we got right away. These kids want to get involved and be a part of our team. And so together we came up with

COLLAREDGREENS.COM

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Matt Watson and Steve Glasgow

“I like to think that our largest demographic group is the people who are nostalgic for the Reagan years but didnʼt actually live them.” ̶Matt Watson, Country Club Prep the Whale Rep Program. We have a couple hundred reps, and we receive thousands of applications each year. To make it manageable and impactful for the kids we only have one student per campus.” Shep Murray elaborates, “Itʼs helped us learn quite a bit about our brand too.

Theyʼre also telling their friends about Vineyard Vines, hosting shopping parties and getting involved with philanthropies.”

While modern prep is still a classic look, how does it evolve? Mihalko believes that slimmer fits and active styling give classic looks a twist. Von Maurʼs Anderson says, “The continuation of the preppy look will happen as we turn the page to spring; we arenʼt seeing an end in sight. Weʼve also increased our bow tie assortment this past year because weʼre seeing huge lifts in that business for homecomings and graduations. Customers can expect to see an expanded assortment of bright, colorful wovens and knits along with us growing our accessories categories, specifically in belts and hoisery.”

Shep says that performance fabrics are a logical next step for their brand. “Prep is a slowmoving creature, and certainly our brand needs to adapt to the fit. So how do we make that classic look more comfortable without wearing yoga or athletic wear? We havenʼt done any wrinkle-free products yet, but we see the opportunity there so guys can pack their blue blazers when traveling and not have to worry about it being all wrinkled. Performance is where the future lies.”

prep essentials

THE NEEDLEPOINT BELT Smathers & Branson

THE EMBROIDERED SHORT Vineyard Vines

10 PREP ESSENTIALS In order to sell the preppy lifestyle, you have to stock the preppy products.

These are the key pieces that every prepster needs.

By Elise Diamantini

THE NANTUCKET RED PANT Bills Khakis

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THE NAVY BLUE BLAZER Brooks Brothers

THE VEST Southern Proper

THE MADRAS PLAID SHIRT Tailor Vintage

THE BOW TIE The Tie Bar

THE BOAT SHOE Nautica

THE POLO SHIRT Lacoste

THE QUARTER-ZIP SWEATER Southern Tide www.MRketplace.com | MR 39

COME DISCOVER THE 25 BRANDS THAT REPRESENT “THE NEW WAVE OF PREP”

BIRD DOG BAY • CASTAWAY-NANTUCKET ISLAND • COLLARED GREENS • COTTON BROTHERS DAPPER CLASSICS • HARDING-LANE • HARI MARI • HIGH COTTON • HOLEBROOK • JOHNNIE O LAZYJACK PRESS • MADISON CREEK OUTFITTERS • OVERTON • PETER-BLAIR ACCESSORIES ROWDY GENTLEMAN • SMATHERS AND BRANSON • SOUTHERN MARSH • SOUTHERN PROPER SOUTHERN TIDE • STATE TRADITIONS • TAILOR VINTAGE • VINEYARD VINES • WM LAMB & SON JANUARY 19-21, 2015 JAVITS CENTER NYC

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U.K. STYLE

U.K. style

Keep Calm and Buy British Menswear is definitely having a moment. New talent gushes forth like a stylishly attired Biblical deluge, and heritage brands as old as the hills are doing bigger business than ever before.

While this is true across the globe, one could argue that the U.K. crucilbe burns the brightest.

By William Buckley

T

he British menswear industry has one of the richest heritages in the world, from bespectacled tailors stitching suits on Savile Row to rosy-cheeked harridans weaving heirloom tweed on the weather-beaten islands of the Outer Hebrides. Britain has been at the forefront of both textiles and tailoring for hundreds of years, and British subcultures̶from Teddy Boys and Mods to Goths and Punks̶ have subverted global trends again and again.

But the heritage, the Yorkshire mills and Scottish textiles, has often become more theoretical than practical. The long-established U.K. brands have, like the rest of the world, moved much of their manufacturing off-shore to capitalize on lower labor costs and wider margins.

“Because of the construction of traditional Scottish yarns and the build of the traditional cloths woven in Scottish mills, they were, by nature, quite heavy, as much as 18 to 19 ounces per yard,” explains Lynn Elliot of The

Yorkshire Weaving Company. “Centrally heated homes, motor cars with heaters and a general trend towards a less fettered approach to clothing made these beautiful works of art unnecessary and unwanted by the 1980s.”

But there are rumblings across the British countryside. Brands like Topman, Burberry and Ben Sherman have all increased domestic manufacturing. “We use fabrics from Fox Brothers,” says Ben Sherman CEO Mark Maidment. “You go to those mills and theyʼre right in the middle of the British countryside, flint stone buildings, all of that romance. The owner was telling me he has people from Ralph Lauren, from Japan, coming to see him out in Somerset, and he picks them up in his Land Rover, and heʼs got his tweed cap, and he drives through the countryside, over the hills, and they find that as exciting as when they get to the mill and see the fabric being made. Thereʼs a whole expe-

rience that goes with it, and weʼre seeing a renewed appreciation for that.”

Mr Porter will be launching Kingsman, a menswear collection, at this monthʼs LC:M made from British cloth, with British craftsmanship. “Kingsmanʼs inspiration is Savile Row and bespoke tailoring, and we wanted to stay entirely true to that,” says fashion director Toby Bateman. “Weʼve made the suits in the U.K., all of the fabrics have been made in the U.K., the shirts, ties, shoes, umbrellas. It wasnʼt easy and it wasnʼt cheap, but the satisfaction of owning a product that was made domestically to the highest standards of quality in the world, and which supports the British manufacturing industry̶we think thatʼs worth it.”

With LC:M adding a fourth day and the diminutive isles churning out world-class designers like clotted cream at teatime, U.K. menswear has never been so exciting . “The reason menswear is so interesting at the moment

On section cover: AQUASCUTUM peacoat; OLIVER SPENCER shirt; BOBBY ABLEY sweatpants; HUSDON boots; JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN hat.

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is because it is in the ascendancy,” explains Dylan Jones, chairman of London Collections: Men, and editor in chief of British GQ. “There is so much more menswear on offer at every price point because the demand is there. You have a generation of consumers that has no qualms about buying menswear, and men between the ages of 15 and 25 are far more sophisticated as shoppers than they used to be: they shop more like women. Couple that with an influx of younger British designers that have significantly more commercial sensibilities than their equivalent counterparts 10, 20, 30 years ago, and you get the moment weʼre having now.”

Like a perfect storm, current trends have also played a part in the international focus on British menswear. “Menswear trends took a swing to the more classic: tweed, Donegal, herringbone, and tailoring,” explains Bateman. “All these things that really conjure images of British menswear and that traditional kind of dressing̶wearing a tailored jacket or a full sartorial suit with a tie and a pocket square, and carrying a smart briefcase̶these trends are inextricable from British heritage.” But it isnʼt just British tradition. “The contemporary end is equally important,” Bateman continues.

“London has always been the breeding ground for the best designers in the world. The names you can list of the worldʼs greatest designers that have come through Britainʼs fashion col-

leges go and on and on. In the recent past they were leaving college and being employed by French or Italian fashion houses, so the names would essentially disappear. But now London Collections: Men offers the younger roster of designers coming through the opportunity for another option: ʻAm I going to sell myself to a big fashion house, or am I going to follow my own creative dreams and try and get some funding from the British Fashion Council and put on a show and try and do my own thing?ʼ” And more than ever that is exactly what a new wave of young British designers are doing.

Names like Jonathan Saunders, James Long, JW Anderson and Katie Eary have all enjoyed the global attention that LC:M has enabled them to receive. Fashion Eastʼs partnership with Topman on the MAN initiative and the British Fashion Councilʼs NewGen program have given new designers a global platform.

“Lulu [Kennedy] (see page 96) really started it all, so all credit to her,” explains Topman creative director Gordon Richardson. “She came to us and said, ʻLook guys, I think itʼs all going to be about menswear. We need to start approaching menʼs the same way Topshop approaches womenʼs,ʼ and we said ʻOf course, fabulous, letʼs do something.ʼ And thatʼs how MAN started, which, with the support of the British Fashion Council, has grown into LC:M, which has become a real driving force for British menswear.”

“LC:M has had a huge impact for British designers globally, because visitors from around the world, particularly U.S. department store buyers, are now flying into London and attending the shows in advance of Florence or Milan,” agrees Bateman. “That makes a huge difference to these young designers.”

So while Britain has its deeply seated sartorial heritage, itʼs ironic that a program for young̶and in many cases edgy̶designers would draw the spotlight back to Britain, and in turn back to brands like Richards James and Gieves & Hawkes, who also show at LC:M. “International buyers in particular are so keen on the heritage aspect of what we do,” says Dylan Jones. “One of the most important aspects of what we set out to achieve when we started LC:M was to create a platform for the heritage brands, for all the fantastic design houses on Savile Row, as well as the new brands that were a part of MAN or NewGen. We corralled them all together, and theyʼve had some fantastic presentations at historic places like The Cabinet War Rooms, Lordʼs Cricket Ground, Spencer House̶all these very British places.

The fact that international merchants are able to come to London and go to a Savile Row cutting room, or to Downing Street, or to Spencer House and some of these fantastic old buildings, particularly around Westminster and St. James, really helps bring the heritage to life.”

Brooks Brothers

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ADVERTORIAL

U.K. style

A PERFECT MATCH: THE BARBOUR FOR LAND ROVER COLLECTION Barbour is a uniquely classic British brand not only rich in history, but with their finger ever on the pulse of whatʼs next, constantly evolving.

Their latest collaboration with Land Rover for fall 2015 is the perfect example of how Barbour discovers new opportunities to grow. These two British brands have come together to launch the Barbour for Land Rover collection of exquisite menʼs and womenʼs products including a full range of classically tailored outerwear, woolens, sweaters, knitwear, shirts, luggage and leather. Fabrics are luxurious: leather, suede, tweed and 100-percent merino wool and cashmere blends are key components to this contemporary collection. And the flawless attention to detail (waxing, quilting, leather piping, corozo buttons and a signature Barbour for Land Rover stud) brings this collection to life for fall.

Barbourʼs managing director, Steve Buck, elaborates on the brandsʼ harmonious partnership: “There is a strong synergy between Barbour and Land Rover̶we are both established British brands with years of heritage, renowned for our understated style and synonymous with the British countryside. The unrivalled reputation of both brands is founded upon a long history of producing products of the highest quality that combine modern innovation with tradition and heritage. The new Barbour Land Rover clothing range is fit for purpose, luxurious and stylish, and we are delighted and proud to be working in partnership with Land Rover.”

Robin Colgan, Land Roverʼs global brand director, added, “This partnership fits perfectly with the Land Rover brand; both marques are revered for their all-terrain and all-weather resilience allowing customers to go about their business whatever the conditions, without compromising on style and comfort.

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“Barbour for Land Rover will produce clothing which will draw from both brandsʼ rich heritages and shared understanding of how style and functionality work together to culminate in products which are sophisticated, capable, stylish and reliable.”

The collection was collaboratively designed for the discerning consumer who craves high-quality, classic craftsmanship and modern style. The premium collection has an elevated price point, not compromising on all the special details and features. While Barbour and Land Rover produced two small capsule collections for both the fall and spring 2014 seasons, the big splash is set for fall ʼ15. “We have a number of marketing tools built around the debut,” explains Tom Hooven, general manger‒Barbour North America. “Exciting social media activities, in-store promotions, and other activities, so everyone can get a taste of the Barbour lifestyle.”

The fifth generation J Barbour & Sons Ltd. was founded in 1894.

Known for its iconic waxed cotton jackets, Barbour is a family-owned business with three Royal warrants. The brand has been worn and adored by the Royal Family, Royal Navy submarine Captain George Willis and his crew during World War II, as well as amateur race car driver and movie star Steve McQueen. Land Rover was founded in 1948 and has been manufacturing luxury 4x4s ever since. The Barbour for Land Rover collection will be available for wholesale opportunities for fall 2015, and sold in select Barbour stores and Land Rover dealerships worldwide.

For more information, contact Elissa Millican: Elissa.Millican@barbour.com

Barbour Showroom Locations in: NEW YORK | CHICAGO | DALLAS | MILFORD, NH

By appointment only, call: 800.338.3474 | www.barbour.com RIÀFLDO%DUERXU ¬@Barbour ŧ @Barbour

ADVERTORIAL

U.K. style

A HERITAGE OF MODERNISM: BEN SHERMAN There aren't many brands so synonymous with U.K. menswear, particularly designed for the younger stylish set. The Ben Sherman brand was born in the southern seaside town of Brighton, also the birthplace of the brand's founder, Arthur Benjamin Sugarman. At just 20 years old, Sugarman left a post-war torn England for the hope and promise of America. He married, and worked with his father-in-law at a successful Californian clothing manufacturer until the time came to come home. With a new name, Sherman, and still with Britain in his blood, the now sartorially savvy Sherman moved back to Brighton and began producing shirts.

Visiting jazz musicians like Miles Davis and Dizzy Gillespie wore Oxford-cloth button-downs that gained popularity among the stylish youth culture, known as “teddy boys.” Sherman added his personal touches, like pale shades of pink, yellow and blue. He bought the best fabrics from America and boxed each shirt individually. As the British youth gained a new post-war confidence and the ʼ60s really started to swing, the newly emerging modernists, or “mods,” embraced Ben Sherman and laid the real foundations for the iconic legacy of the shirt: slim fitting, in bold colors and patterns that the drab years before could hardly have imagined.

The excitement and expression of this new generation, through fashion and new music like soul and rhythm and blues, launched London and Britain back into the global spotlight, and back to the center of the new cool. With this iconic moment in British history, these British shirts cut from American cloth secured themselves as icons in their own right. And while the brand's British heritage will always be at the forefront of their DNA, the Ben Sherman bond with America is tenacious.

In fact, this January will see the preview of a Ben Sherman collection that captures the essence of that tenacity so perfectly: a collaboration with the quintessentially American brand Pendleton. "The romance in this return to a concept that was such a big part of Ben Sherman's history is phenomenal," explains Ben Sherman CEO Mark 48 MR | www.MRketplace.com

Maidment. "Consider that back when the brand started in the 1960s, Ben Sherman was making British shirts with fabrics from American mills. Now, 50 years later we have this opportunity to collaborate with Pendelton, using fabric that they are still making in their American mills. The beauty of that absolute influence of the Ben Sherman heritage is stunning."

Two iconic shirt brands with over 147 years of history, collaborating to create iconic Ben Sherman shirts featuring the original Ben Sherman button-down collar and the famous tab branding, from Pendleton's finest long-staple washable wool. The collection of three shirts launches in the U.S. for fall 2015, a reflection of the AngloAmerican allegiance that inspired Ben Shermanʼs beginnings, and continues with the brandʼs heritage of modernism more than five decades later. For more information, contact Tony Vaccaro: tony.vaccaro@bensherman.com

ADVERTORIAL

U.K. style James Hinton

ADVENTURES IN KNITWEAR: ALAN PAINE Alan Paineʼs knitwear was standard equipment for both royalty and outdoorsmen in the 1920s. George Mallory, the celebrated mountaineer, wore a Paine sweater for his 1924 ascent of Mt. Everest. Malloryʼs Everest climb inspired the Explorer Collection of knits and outerwear, and the brand has renewed its ties to the Mallory family. The Prince of Wales, who later became Edward VIII, had Paine make personalized cable-knit sweaters for him, finished in his regimental colors.

William Paine started his knitwear business in the Surrey town of Godalming, England in 1907. His son Alan brought that rich and adventurous heritage to the U.S. in the 1950s. “Alan would tell these wonderful little stories about developing the American market̶for him it was three months at a time̶going to the East Coast in New York for Bloomingdaleʼs and Saks and then traveling down south on a Greyhound bus to Dallas for Neiman Marcus,” recalls James Hinton, who now owns the Alan Paine brand. Hinton joined the company in 1986 and bought it in 2005.

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Alan Paine under Hinton is a “waist-up” lifestyle brand̶itʼs grown beyond knitwear to include outerwear, cut-and-sewn shirting and accessories. The Country Collection of classic, authentic hunting and shooting-inspired tweeds is made for sporting men and women in Europe and offered in America as a special limited collection.

British-designed knits, in cashmere, lambswool, Geelong, cotton/cashmere and a Total Easy Care Merino wool, are available in stock. “We put a lot of emphasis on color,” says Hinton. “And a lot of it is stock-supported in the U.K.; we try to work with retailers to put the basics in and turn it over within the season. They have a lot of confidence in the high level of service for our in-stock program. We can deliver the next day to the East Coast; itʼs a very efficient service.

Weʼve driven a lot of business by giving the customers that support.”

Representing Alan Paine in the U.S. is Jim McKenry of The Bird Dog Group. Hinton and McKenry met serendipitously at an airport lounge and became friends immediately. McKenry was hesitant to take on another brand at first, but when he found several vintage Alan Paine sweaters while cleaning out his fatherʼs closet, he saw it as a sign. “Weʼre working very closely with him̶heʼs involved in the design and direction for the States,” says Hinton. “Jimʼs a guy who only gets involved with a brand if he firmly believes in it.”

For more information, contact Jim McKenry: JMcKenry@birddoggroup.net

Jim McKenry, Brand Manager, 130 West 57th St, Suite 9C, New York, NY 10019, 212.757.4664, jmckenry@birddoggroup.net Alan Paine Knitwear Ltd, Unit 2, Observatory Way, Lowmoor Rd, Kirkby Notts, England, NG17 7RD, +44 (0) 1623 522570, www.alanpaine.co.uk

ADVERTORIAL

U.K. style

STYLISH AND SOPHISTICATED: JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN Authentic, luxurious, stylish and timeless are all words that describe the Johnstons of Elgin brand. This family-owned and operated business was established in Scotland in 1797 and has since become known as the expert in cashmere and fine woollens. Johnstons chooses not to export its manufacturing away from its roots and owns two majestic mills in Scotland. Employing 450 people in Elgin and 250 people in Hawick, it is the only fully vertical mill that remains in operation in Scotland, giving the brand the ability to manage production from raw fiber in the wool store through to perfected garment on the showroom floor.

Johnstons of Elgin weaves the beauty of the Scottish landscape into each and every product, maintaining quality and integrity in every stitch. The brand employs some of the most talented, imaginative and inspiring designers and the range is manufactured using only the most exquisite cashmere and fine wools in the world, guaranteeing beautiful, luxurious and sophisticated products for its discerning customers all over the world.

The offering includes menʼs and ladies cashmere knitwear; knitted scarves, hats and gloves; woven scarves and throws; apparel fabrics and home interior fabrics; all in cashmere, extra-fine merino and lambswool.

Johnstons of Elgin has an ethical and sustainable approach to manufacturing and whether itʼs dyeing or spinning, weaving or knitting, it all happens in their own mills on Scottish soil. The company also has the distinction of receiving the Royal Warrant of Appointment to his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales for Estate Tweeds in 2013.

For more information, contact Duncan Browne: d.browne@johnstonscashmere.com

150 E 55th St, 3rd Floor New York, NY 10022 T: 212 944 7779 enquiries@johnstonscashmere.com www.johnstonscashmere.com

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ADVERTORIAL

U.K. style

DRIVEN BY HERITAGE: DENTS Dents has been making the worldĘźs ďŹ nest leather gloves for 238 years.

The company was founded by John Dent, Master Glove Maker, in the city of Worcester, England in 1777. In 1877 Dents appointed its ďŹ rst U.S. sales representative and opened a New York showroom at 85 Fifth Avenue. That long association with the American market continues to this day with Jim McKenry, DentsĘź exclusive U.S. agent, whose showroom is located at 130 West 57th Street in New York City.

Today, Dents is recognized as EnglandĘźs foremost designer and manufacturer of ďŹ ne leather gloves, with longstanding connections to royalty (as maker of the QueenĘźs Coronation gloves), and to the world of TV and moviesĚśDents made 007Ęźs gloves in the most recent James Bond ďŹ lm Skyfall, as well as the gloves featured in the BBC TV series Mr. Selfridge.

Dents Heritage Collection is designed and made in England using traditional skills that have hardly changed since 1777. Dents is one of the few companies in the world employing craftsmen with the skills required to cut and sew gloves made from peccary, an expensive and increasingly rare luxury leather. Dents gloves are individually bench cut and ďŹ nely sewn, one pair at a time. One pair of gloves comprises 52 individual pieces of leather, and involves 32 separate manufacturing processes and up to six hours of hand sewing.

The Dents Heritage Collection is sold in the ďŹ nest stores in 32 countries. DentsĘź glove sales have recently been particularly buoyant in the USA, as the savvy high-end consumerĘźs perception of true value and quality grows increasingly sophisticated.

m a d e

i n

Color is forecast to be the major inuence in 2015 in increasing sales of accessories and gloves in the luxury market. DentsĘź designers lead the way with new shades of leather including cork, sapphire and navy in super-soft deerskin, adding a new dimension to this classic leather. Note also the clever use of contrast stitching and cashmere linings in the new Heritage hairsheep collectionĚśburnt tangerine, apple green and yellow, set o by classic reds and sky blues. Slimmer-ďŹ tting gloves add a stylish new look and complement the trend in menĘźs outerwear towards a slimmer silhouette for 2015.

For more information, contact Jim McKenry: JMcKenry@birddoggroup.net

e n g l a n d

NYC Showroom – Jim McKenry, 130 West 57th Street, Suite 9c, New York, NY 10019 ˆ NQGOIRV]$FMVHHSKKVSYT RIX [[[ HIRXW GS YO

MRket NY Booth #341

www.MRketplace.com | MR 53

fashion

Along the River Thames, through East LondonĘźs docklands, British heritage brands meet the next generation.

Styling by William Buckley Photography by Simon Lipman

54 MR | www.MRketplace.com

BURBERRY jacket and jeans; BEN SHERMAN sweater and watch.

www.MRketplace.com | MR 55

AQUASCUTUM coat; BEN SHERMAN X PENDLETON shirt; CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN sweatpants.

Opposite: On Finlay: OLIVER SPENCER blazer; CARRIER COMPANY jacket; ALAN PAINE t-neck; TOPMAN jeans; DENTS gloves; KICKERS boots; PANTHERELLA socks.

On Patrick: TOPMAN blazer; JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN t-neck; BURBERRY jeans; HUSDON boots.

www.MRketplace.com | MR 57

On Finlay: CRAIG GREEN shirt and pants; PANTHERELLA socks; HUDSON shoes.

On Patrick: BEN SHERMAN X PENDLETON shirt; JONATHAN SAUNDERS pants; BARACUTA hat.

Opposite: PAUL SMITH jacket; OLIVER SPENCER shirt; AGI & SAM pants; DENTS gloves.

58 MR | www.MRketplace.com

www.MRketplace.com | MR 59

PRODUCTION COORDINATOR ASHLEY SANCHEZ; PHOTO ASSISTANT PHIL HEWITT; GROOMING BY KHANDIZ AT NOVEL BEINGS. MODELS: FINLAY MCCOY, NEVS; PATRICK, MILK.

trade show calendar | january to june 2015 January 5-6 Agenda Long Beach Convention Center Long Beach, CA 213-223-5111 agendashow.com 8-10 Surf Expo Orange County Convention Center Orlando, FL 800-947-SURF surfexpo.com 11-12 The Cobb Show Cobb Galleria Centre Atlanta, GA 404-915-8059 thecobbshow.com 11-14 LA Fashion Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA 213-630-3600 californiamarketcenter.com 12-15 New Mart Show New Mart Building Los Angeles, CA 213-627-0671 newmart.net 13-14 Premiere Vision NY Pier 92 New York, NY 646-351-1942 premierevision-newyork.com 13-14 Printsource New York Metropolitan Pavilion New York, NY 212-352-1005 printsourcenewyork.com 13-16 Pitti Immagine Uomo Fortezza Da Basso Florence, Italy +39 0 55 36931 pittimmagine.com 16-20 Denver/Western Show Denver Merchandise Mart Denver, CO 303-295-1040 denver-wesa.com 18-20 Designer Collective New York The London NYC New York, NY 10019 888-248-2832 ctda.com 62 MR | www.MRketplace.com

19-20 Agenda Javits Center New York, NY 213-223-5111 agendashow.com 19-20 Capsule Basketball City New York, NY 212-206-8310 capsuleshow.com 19-21 International Apparel Sourcing Show Javits Center New York, NY 770-984-8016 apparelsourcingshow.com 19-21 Liberty Fairs Pier 94 New York, NY 212-473-4523 libertyfairs.com 19-21 MRket NYC Javits Center New York, NY 212-710-7408 mrketshow.com 19-21 Project / Project Sole Javits Center New York, NY 877-554-4834 projectshow.com 19-21 Texworld USA Javits Center New York, NY 770-984-8016 TexworldUSA.com 20-21 Kingpins Denim Show Skylight Clarkson Square New York, NY web-query@kingpins.info kingpins.info 21-23 Fashion Industry Gallery 1807 Ross Avenue Dallas, TX 214-748-4344 fashionindustrygallery.com 21-23 PGA Merchandise Show Orange County Convention Center Orlando, FL 800-840-5628 pgashow.com

21-24 Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market World Trade Center Dallas, TX 800-DAL-MKTS dallasmarketcenter.com 21-24 Outdoor Retailer Winter Market 2015 Salt Lake Convention Center Salt Lake City, UT 949-226-5700 outdoorretailer.com/wintermarket/ 23-25 Capsule Cite de la Mode Paris, France 212-206-8310 capsuleshow.com 29-2/1 SIA SnowSports Tradeshow Colorado Convention Center Denver, CO 703-556-9020 snowsports.org 29-2/2 Atlanta Apparel Americas Mart Atlanta, GA 404-220-3000 americasmart.com 31-2/2 Dallas Menʼs Show World Trade Center Dallas, TX 800- DAL-MKTS dallasmarketcenter.com

February 3-5 FFANY Hilton New York Hotel New York, NY 212-751-6422 ffany.org 4-6 Milano Unica FieraMilano Fairgrounds Milan, Italy +39 02 66101105 milanounica.it 7-9 Southern Clothing Market Embassy Suites Hotel Charlotte, NC 704-366-3654 mensapparelclub.com

7-9 The West Coast Trend Show Embassy Suites LAX North Los Angeles, CA 310-215-1000 westcoasttrendshow.com 8-10 Chicago Collective Merchandise Mart (8th Floor) Chicago, IL 312-527-7635 chicagocollectiveonline.com 10-12 Expofil Paris Villepinte-Parc des Expositions Paris, France +33 04 72 60 65 55 Expofil.com 10-12 Premiere Vision Villepinte-Parc des Expositions Paris, France +33 04 72 60 65 55 premierevision.fr 15-18 Off-Price Specialist Show Sands Expo Center Las Vegas, NV 262-782-1900 offpriceshow.com 16-17 CurveNV Designer Lingerie & Swim Show Venetian Hotel Las Vegas, NV 212-993-8585 Curvexpo.com 16-18 Agenda Sands Convention Center Las Vegas, NV 213-223-5111 agendashow.com 16-18 Capsule Sands Convention Center Las Vegas, NV 212-206-8310 capsuleshow.com 16-18 Liberty Fairs Sands Convention Center Las Vegas, NV 212-473-4523 libertyfairs.com 16-18 MRket LV Sands Convention Center Las Vegas, NV 212-710-7408 mrketshow.com

trade show calendar | january to june 2015 8-9 The Cobb Show Cobb Galleria Convention Centre Atlanta, GA 404-915-8059 thecobbshow.com

17-19 MAGIC Menʼs Mandalay Bay Las Vegas, NV 818-593-5000 magiconline.com

15-16 Michigan Apparel Club Embassy Suites Livonia Livonia, MI 734-432-9790 midwestapparelreps.com

17-19 Pool Trade Show Mandalay Bay Las Vegas, NV 310-857-7675 pooltradeshow.com

15-18 LA Fashion Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA 213-630-3600 californiamarketcenter.com

17-19 Project Mandalay Bay Las Vegas, NV 877-554-4834 magiconline.com

16-19 New Mart Show New Mart Building Los Angeles, CA 213-627-0671 newmart.net

17-19 WSA@MAGIC Las Vegas Convention Center Las Vegas, NV 818-593-5000 magiconline.com

19-23 Atlanta Apparel Americas Mart Atlanta, GA 404-220-3000 americasmart.com

22-24 CurveNY Designer Lingerie & Swim Show Javits Center North New York, NY 212-993-8585 Curvexpo.com

25-27 Fashion Industry Gallery 1807 Ross Avenue Dallas, TX 214-748-4344 fashionindustrygallery.com

22-24 Haberdasherʼs Guild Doubletree Suites Hotel Plymouth Meeting, PA 302-540-9548 thehaberdashersguild.com 28-3/2 NW Buyers Doubletree by Hilton Bloomington, MN 763-450-2000 nwbuyers.com

March

25-28 Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market World Trade Center Dallas, TX 800-DAL-MKTS dallasmarketcenter.com

April 7-8 LA Menʼs Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA 213-630-3600 californiamarketcenter.com

1-3 Boston Menswear Collective Holiday Inn Convention Center Boxborough, MA 508-655-7158 bostoncollective.com

8-9 Printsource New York Metropolitan Pavilion New York, NY 212-352-1005 printsourcenewyork.com

2-4 Los Angeles International Textile Show California Market Center Los Angeles, CA 213-630-3600 californiamarketcenter.com

June

64 MR | www.MRketplace.com

2-4 FFANY Hilton New York Hotel New York, NY 212-751-6422 ffany.org

2-4 Techtextil George R. Brown Convention Center Houston, TX 770-984-8016 techtextilna.com

9-11 Licensing International Expo Mandalay Bay Hotel Las Vegas, NV 888-644-2022 licensingexpo.com

3-5 Fashion Industry Gallery 1807 Ross Avenue Dallas, TX 214-748-4344 fashionindustrygallery.com

11-14 Americas Mart Atlanta Apparel Mart Atlanta, GA 404-220-3000 americasmart.com

3-6 Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market World Trade Center Dallas, TX 800- DAL-MKTS Dallasmarketcenter.com

17-20 Pitti Immagine Uomo Fortezza Da Basso Florence, Italy 212-246-2977 pittimmagine.com

7-10 Fashion Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA 213-630-3600 californiamarketcenter.com

27-29 Capsule Paris Cité de la Mode Paris, France 212-206-8310 capsuleshow.com

8-12 New Mart Show The New Mart Building Los Angeles, CA 213-627-0671 newmart.net

ketplace.com

16-19 Sourcing at MAGIC Las Vegas Convention Center Las Vegas, NV 310-857-7500 magiconline.com

For the LATEST NEWS, UPDATES & SHOW LISTINGS go to MRketplace.com

JANUARY 19-21, 2015

JACOB JAVITS CONVENTION CENTER NEW YORK

FEBRUARY 17-19, 2015

MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTER LAS VEGAS

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BRANDS BEGG & CO.

SANYO

DINO BIGIONI

CALIBAN

HOMAND

FERRANTE

FLY3

68 The Brands @ MRketNY

F/W ‘15 DAVID HAMPTON

MONTECHIARO

LEMON AND LINE

HERESIS

RAGUSA 1970TAYLORS

PIETRO PROVENZALE

The Brands @ MRketNY 69

BRANDS BRYANT PARK NEW YORK

BARBISIO CERVO

ELIZABETH PARKER ENGLAND

REPORTER

ANDREW MARC CLOTHING

MICHAEL KORS

CALVIN KLEIN

PAOLO ALBIZZATI

70 The Brands @ MRketNY

F/W ‘15 MAYSER HATS

JAN LESLIE/LINKUP/MAXREED

CROCLUX

RAFFI LINEA UOMO

VITALIANO

EUROPERFUMES

GALLOTTI

DOBBS HATS

GERMANO GHERGO

The Brands @ MRketNY 71

BRANDS LAUREN RALPH LAUREN

RENCO

ALESSANDRO GHERARDI

RHODY RED

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NAVIGARE

72 The Brands @ MRketNY

GIOSBRUN ROMA PARIOLI

RICHMART

F/W ‘15 ASPEN CLUB BRITS IN NEW YORK

SURVIVALON

SEBASTIEN JAMES COLLECTION GRUPPO BRAVO

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PEERLESS BOYS

TRUEFITT & HILL

BONSOIR

The Brands @ MRketNY 73

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BRESCIANI

LLOYD SHOES

ITAL WEARA. BOSSI

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BY NIPAL

S. COHEN INC.

GOLDEN BEAR SPORTSWEAR

EYEBOBS, INC.

74 The Brands @ MRketNY

F/W ‘15 MOTHER FREEDOM

IBIZA

RICHARD JAMES

LONE PINE LEATHERS

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TAMPA FUEGO

The Brands @ MRketNY 75

BRANDS ALDEN

FLY BELT

BILLS KHAKIS

IRELAND’S EYE

ALLEN EDMONDS

LEJON

MOORE & GILES

76 The Brands @ MRketNY

F/W ‘15 BARBOUR INTERNATIONAL

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SCOTT NICHOL BOAT 54

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78 The Brands @ MRketNY

BLUE

F/W ‘15 SCHNEIDERS SALZBURG

INGRAM

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The Brands @ MRketNY 79

BRANDS COOPER JONES

LUCHIANO VISCONTI

MAJESTIC INTERNATIONAL

GERMANO

GITMAN BROS

DION

TACCALITI SHIRTS

80 The Brands @ MRketNY

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F/W ‘15 CHELSEY IMPORTS

ITALO FERRETTI

PACIFIC SILK

LOOMINUS WOODSTOCK

DEREK ROSE

ALPETORA/G. MANZONI

NIKKY

VILLA DELMITIA

MARCHESI DI COMO

BILL BLASS

The Brands @ MRketNY 81

BRANDS GLOBAL MINT

LIPSON SHIRTMAKERS

GJ CAHN BOW TIES

BARONI COUTURE/PRIVE/ MAXDAVOLI/TREND

TORI RICHARD, LTD.

LUCIANO MORESCO

TINO COSMA

82 The Brands @ MRketNY

PENROSE LONDON

F/W ‘15 MONTALIANI

PETER-BLAIR ACCESSORIES

JARED LANG

BERTIGO

CASTAWAYNANTUCKET ISLAND

PULITO ABBIGLIAMENTO DAL 1885

ANGELO NARDELLI 1951

LUCHIANO VISCONTI BLACK

PRIVATE STOCK NECKWEAR AND ACCESSORIES

The Brands @ MRketNY 83

BRANDS PANTHERELLA

HERON HABERDASHERY

REMO TULLIANI

AGE OF WISDOM

KUEHNERT INC.

SANI GUALTIERO FIRENZE

SIMON CARTER

CORGI

DIMENSIONS BY WCM

LONDON SOCK COMPANY

84 The Brands @ MRketNY

GJ CAHN SCARFS

F/W ‘15 MASSIMILIANO STANCO

CEREUS

LAZYJACK PRESS

THOMAS HANCOCK VA

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The Brands @ MRketNY 85

BRANDS

UMBERTO VALLATI

BAADE II, LTD.

DUNCAN WALTON

BRESCIANI UNDERWEAR

LEFT COAST TEE

ALARA

INSIGNIA DESIGN GROUP/ DIVISION OF PVH CORP.

86 The Brands @ MRketNY

F/W ‘15

BOHIO

KENNET STREET

ISAAC MIZRAHI LEATHER GOODS

SEAN JOHN

SCOTT & CHARTERS

CALABRESE 1924

ALAN PAINE KNITWEAR

GIONFRIDDO

SILVIO FIORELLO

DAPPER CLASSICS

MISSANI LE COLLEZIONI

The Brands @ MRketNY 87

ABITO (212)664-1058 patrickc@scoheninc.com www.scoheninc.com

BARTORELLI (213)623-6231 kamil@marco-valentino.com; angelo4444@sbcglobal.net www.marco-valentino.com

ACQUAVIVA (212)695-1130 daniel@bmgimports.com; anna@bmgimports.com www.bmgimports.com

BEGG & CO. (845)781-8185 enquiries@beggandcompany.com www.beggandcompany.com

AGE OF WISDOM (323)264-0880 allsnbs@aol.com www.ageofwisdomclothing.com

BELFORD MEN (212)764-2196 michele@belfordcashmere.com

ALAN PAINE KNITWEAR (203)972-9182 jmckenry@birddoggroup.net www.birddoggroup.net

BELTS + DI PIAZZA STEFANO 39(052)180-4421 belts@rsadvnet.it www.belts-parma.it

ALARA (212)997-9400 mehmet@alarashirt.com www.alarashirt.com

BENTLEY CRAVATS CORP (212)683-6130 bentleycravats@aol.com

ALDEN (508)947-3926 general@aldenshoe.com www.aldenshoe.com

BERETTA USA (301)283-2191 areape@berettausa.com www.berettausa.com

ALESSANDRO GHERARDI (333)914-7004 claudiagherardi@confezioni-cigi.com www.alessandrogherardi.com

BERTIGO (786)516-2828 info@bertigo.com www.bertigo.com

ALESSANDROSIMONI 39(347)570-6442 direzione.artideamaglieria@gmail.com www.alessandrosimoni.it

BILL BLASS (212)541-8720 suzannea@peerless-clothing.com www.peerless-clothing.com

ALEX CANNON (212)947-5508 dcaruso@alexcannon.com www.alexcannon.com

BILLS KHAKIS (610)372-9765 customerservice@billskhakis.com www.billskhakis.com

ALLEN EDMONDS (262)235-6000 rortiz@allenedmonds.com www.allenedmonds.com

BIRD DOG BAY (773)252-7083 eric@birddogbay.com www.birddogbay.com

ALPETORA/G. MANZONI (718)871-8722 alpetoraimports@aol.com

BLANQAZUL (407)831-2788 peruunlimited@embarqmail.com www.peru-unlimited.com

ANDREW FEZZA (212)541-8720 suzannea@peerless-clothing.com www.peerlessclothing.com

BLUE (845)781-8185 chris@kuehnert.com www.kuehnert.com

ANDREW MARC CLOTHING (212)541-8720 daynac@peerclo.com www.peerless-clothing.com

BMG IMPORTS INC. (212)695-1130 info@bmgimports.com www.bmgimports.com

ANDREW-J SHIRTS (480)348-3448 info@andrew-j.com www.andrew-j.com

BOAT 54 (212)764-3330 kevin@boat54.com www.boat54.com

ANGELO NARDELLI 1951 39(080)485-1111 estero@angelonardelli.it www.angelonardelli.it

BOHIO (305)633-9920 jmp@jmpfashions.com www.jmpfashions.com

ARCURI 39(096)892-6820 arcuricravatte@tiscali.it

BONSOIR (845)781-8185 jim@kuehnert.com www.kuehnert.com

ARISTO 18 (909)930-0779 joseph@natsunusa.com www.aristo18.com

BRANDOLINI (718)292-7255 jeff@classicoinc.com www.brandoliniusa.com

ASPEN CLUB BRITS IN NEW YORK 34(913)605-386 aspen@diremo.es www.aspenclubbritsinnewyork.com

BRESCIANI 39(035)877-266 info@bresciani.it www.bresciani.it

ASTON LEATHER (212)481-2760 service@astonleather.com www.astonleather.com

BRESCIANI UNDERWEAR (845)781-8185 jim@kuehnert.com www.kuehnert.com

BAADE II, LTD. (609)340-8650 maryann@baadecufflinks.com www.baadecufflinks.com

BREUER SAS (212)757-4664 jmckenry@birddoggroup.net www.birddoggroup.net

BACCO BUCCI (800)217-6000 lhill@mezlan-pacshoe.com www.mezlanshoes.com

BRYANT PARK NEW YORK (212)268-0723 hbaum@romaind.com www.bryantparkbelts.com

BAGNOLI SARTORIA NAPOLI 39(335)560-0934 bagnoli@diconf.com www.bagnolisartoria.com

BULGARINI 39(077)520-0710 g.f.g.2.srl@live.it

BARBISIO CERVO (305)819-6640 worldhatco@aol.com www.barbisio.it

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BARBOUR CLASSIC (800)338-3474 jon.wisniewski@barbour.com www.barbour.com

CALIBAN (335)787-0538 gulia.greci@gimmebrandscorporate.it www.giemmebrandscorporate.it

BARBOUR INTERNATIONAL (800)338-3474 jon.wisniewski@barbour.com www.barbour.com

CALLAWAY (305)873-1817 evelyn.brito@pery.com

BARONI COUTURE/PRIVE/MAXDAVOLI/TREND (213)537-0125 sollyyamin@yahoo.com www.baroniprive.com

CALVIN KLEIN CLOTHING (212)541-8720 suzannea@peerlessclothing.com www.peerless-clothing.com

88 The Brands @ MRketNY

CANALETTO (213)744-1833 bruce@tiglio.com;info@tiglio.com www.tiglio.com

DRAKE’S 44(207)608-0321 clairethomas@drakes-london.com www.drakes-london.com

CARLOS SANTOS (125)683-7080 cp33mooney@gmail.com;mkt@santosshoes.com www.santosshoes.com

DUNCAN WALTON (949)496-8437 geoffnicholson@yahoo.com www.pacificsilk.net

CASTAWAY-NANTUCKET ISLAND (866)488-0642 sales@castawayclothing.com www.castawayclothing.com

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CEREUS (714)478-6634 nr325@me.com www.cereusfragrance.com

EDWARD ARMAH (973)626-2536 ea@edwardarmah.com www.edwardarmah.com

CHELSEY IMPORTS (212)244-5858 info@chelseyimports.com www.chelseyimports.com

EDWARD GREEN 44(160)462-6880 hilary.freeman@edwardgreen.com www.edwardgreen.com

CHRISTOPHER LENA (310)327-0050 sales@christopherlena.com www.christopherlena.com

ELIZABETH PARKER ENGLAND 44(193)322-3603 info@elizabethparker.co.uk www.elizabethparker.co.uk

CHRYSALIS 44(127)650-7875 neilbharrison@aol.com www.chrysalisclothes.co.uk

EMANUEL BERG (516)382-2620 jadf1112@yahoo.com;aspen@diremo.es www.aspenclubbritsinnewyork.com

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COLLARED GREENS (336)905-8796 jeremy.bull@collaredgreens.com www.collaredgreens.com

ENGLISH LAUNDRY (212)695-1130 daniel@bmgimports.com;anna@bmgimports.com www.bmgimports.com

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ENGLISH UTOPIA (845)781-8185 jim@kuehnert.com www.kuehnert.com

CORGI (845)781-8185 chris.jones@corgihosiery.co.uk www.corgihosiery.co.uk

ENVY (305)384-6080 bob@envyevolution.com www.envyevolution.com

COTTON BROTHERS (800)333-8398 chucktnorwood@gmail.com

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CROCLUX (053)695-4345 lapcinture@gmail.com

EURO FASHIONS/CHIARI/EMILIO YUSTE/ITALUOMO (213)995-0605 rogerstuartclo@mindspring.com

CUTTER & BUCK (206)622-4191 specialty.sales@cutterbuck.com www.cutterbuck.com

EUROPERFUMES (201)568-6883 rita@europarfum.com

DAPPER CLASSICS (270)535-2063 frich@dapperclassics.com www.dapperclassics.com

EYEBOBS, INC. (612)822-0717 pat@eyebobs.com www.eyebobs.com

DAVID HAMPTON 44(207)731-7688 mga@davidhampton.co.uk davidhampton.com

FAIRWAY & GREENE (212)302-7255 mdwyer@summitgolfbrands.com www.fairwayandgreene.com

DENTS HERITAGE COLLECTION (212)7574664 jmckenry@birddoggroup.net www.birddoggroup.net

FERRANTE 39(342)866-0160 fabio@ferrante.it www.ferrante.it

DEREK ROSE (917)755-4605 emily@derek-rose.com www.derek-rose.com

FLY BELT (212)268-0723 hbaum@romaind.com www.flybelt.com

DI BELLO BY NIPAL (212)279-9099 dibello@dibello.com www.dibello.com

FLY3 39(071)916-1805 info@fly3.it; tommaso@fly3.it www.fly3.it

DIMENSIONS BY WCM (212)268-0723 hbaum@romaind.com www.romaindustries.com

FLYNT (646)963-6774 kelly@trybus.com www.trybus.com

DINO BIGIONI (912)507-4433 jlawlor115@aol.com www.dinobigioni.it

FOX UMBRELLAS 44(208)662-0022 huw@foxumbrellas.com www.foxumbrellas.com

DION (905)660-3010 sales@dionneckwear.com www.dionneckwear.com

GALLOTTI (212)702-0136 m.stefano@gallotti.it www.gallotti.it

DKNY (212)541-8720 suzannea@peerlessclothing.com www.peerlessclothing.com

GEOFF NICHOLSON (949)496-8437 geoffnicholson@yahoo.com www.pacificsilk.net

DOBBS HATS (972)494-0511 gmiller@hat-co.com www.hat-co.com

GERMANO 3(908)930-1100; (335)787-1767 info@confitex.com www.confitex.com

DOLCEPUNTA (212)397-4300 info@lucianomoresco.com www.dolcepunta.it

GERMANO GHERGO 39(07)171-6976 pierluigi@germanoghergo.it www.germanoghergo.it

DONALD J. TRUMP (212)541-8720 daynac@peerclo.com www.peerlessclothing.com

GIANMARCO MORA 39(33)179-4450 info@filmora.it www.filmora.it The Brands @ MRketNY 89

GIANNI MARCELO (415)777-2225 info@internationallaundry.com www.internationallaundry.com

INTERNATIONAL LAUNDRY (415)990-7299 orders@internationallaundry.com www.internationallaundry.com

GIMO’S (212)307-1258 tuscany.andco@verizon.net www.gimos.com

IRELAND’S EYE (845)781-8185 jim@kuehnert.com www.kuehnert.com

GIONFRIDDO (203)238-3677 thesweaterguy@hotmail.com

ISAAC MIZRAHI LEATHER GOODS (212)268-0723 hbaum@romaind.com www.romaindustries.com

GIOSBRUN ROMA PARIOLI 39(06)324-3227 info@giosbrun.com www.giosbrun.com

ITAL WEAR-A. BOSSI (734)207-0441 italwear@msn.com

GITMAN BROS (212)581-6968 l.marshall@gitman.com www.gitman.com

ITALO FERRETTI (201)945-2434 info@italoferretti.it www.italoferretti.it

GJ CAHN BOW TIES (973)763-3474 gcahn@privatestockmenswear.com www.privatestockmenswear.com

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GJ CAHN SCARFS (973)763-3474 info@privatestockmenswear.com www.privatestockmenswear.com

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JACK VICTOR (212)399-0020 info@jackvictor.com www.jackvictor.com

GOLDEN BEAR SPORTSWEAR (415)863-6171 cwong@goldenbearsportswear.com www.goldenbearsportswear.com

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GORGIO VALENTINI (212)695-1130 daniel@bmgimports.com; anna@bmgimports.com www.bmgimports.com

JAMES TATTERSALL (323)264-3000 david@michaelbrandon.com

GRUPPO BRAVO (213)624-8820 davenik@sbcglobal.net www.gruppobravo.com

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HARDING-LANE (781)752-5325 steve@harding-lane.com www.harding-lane.com

JARED LANG (305)653-7181 leben514@gmail.com www.jaredlangcollection.com

HARI MARI (214)637-2700 jeremy@harimari.com; trenny@harimari.com www.harimari.com

JAY & LEONARD (310)327-0050 ryan.park@christopherlena.com

HARLEY (845)781-8185 jim@kuehnert.com www.kuehnert.com

JIMMY SALES NECKWEAR/BRUNO PIATTELLI (212)714-9611 mail@jimmysales.com www.jimmysales.com

HERESIS 39(080)430-2406 info@heresis.it www.heresis.it

JOHN H. DANIEL CUSTOM TAILORS (865)637-6441 joetaylor@johnhdaniel.com www.johnhdaniel.com

HERON HABERDASHERY (714)478-6634 nathan@heronapparel.com www.heronhaberdashery.com

JOHNNIE O (203)505-0599 michael@johnnie-o.com www.johnnie-o.com

HIDESOCIETY (416)596-7070 karl@hidesociety.com www.hidesociety.com

JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN (212)944-7779 d.browne@johnstonscashmere.com www.johnstonscashmere.com

HIGH COTTON (919)817-8319 james@highcottonties.com www.highcottonties.com

JOSE REAL (786)332-3963 dogen@dogenshoes.com www.joserealshoes.com

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KENNET STREET 39(081)826-9452 samuel@genialfashion.it www.kennetstreet.it

HOMAND 39(073)329-1611 a.gentiletti@brandu.it www.brandu.it

KINROSS CASHMERE (212)997-2524 sandy@dfcashmere.com www.kinrosscashmere.com

IBIZA (212)419-0947 dschuster@trybus.com www.trybus.com

KUEHNERT INC. (845)781-8185 jim@kuehnert.com www.kuehnert.com

IDESIGN APPAREL (601)519-4529 prego@trinity-apparel.com; bboyd@trinity-apparel.com www.trinity-apparel.com

LANDI-070 STUDIO (212)586-5029 givifashion@gmail.com

IKE BEHAR SLEEPWEAR (203)373-1853 w.thompson@majesticinternational.com www.majesticinternational.com

LARRY LEVINE (213)623-6231 kamil@marco-valentino.com; angelo4444@sbcglobal.net www.marco-valentino.com

IMPULSO 39(030)996-2456 customerservice@montechiarousa.com www.montechiarousa.com

LAUREN RALPH LAUREN (212)541-8720 suzannea@peerlessclothing.com www.peerless-clothing.com

INGRAM (212)245-4015 administration@cantoniusa.com www.inghirami.com

LAZYJACK PRESS (415)412-2783 miriam@lazyjackpress.com www.lazyjackpress.com

INSIGNIA DESIGN GROUP/DIVISION OF PVH CORP. (212)381-3500 brookesavona@pvh.com www.pvh.com

LEE ALLISON (773)276-7172 trideep@leeallison.com www.leeallison.com

90 The Brands @ MRketNY

LEFT COAST TEE (877)876-8337 s.sockolov@leftcoasttee.com www.leftcoasttee.com

MEZLAN (800)217-6000 hgrashin@mezlan-pacshoe.com www.mezlanshoes.com

LEJON (951)736-1229 marilyn@lejon.com www.lejon.com

MICHAEL KORS (212)541-8720 suzannea@peerless-clothing.com www.peerlessclothing.com

LEMON AND LINE (401)619-7660 david@lemonandline.com

MISSANI LE COLLEZIONI (626)228-0600 info@missani.com www.missani.com

LIPSON SHIRTMAKERS (416)236-3114 info@lipsonshirtmakers.com www.lipsonshirtmakers.com

MODENA (310)327-0050 ryan.park@christopherlena.com

LLOYD SHOES (585)472-4856 sstoffelsma@gmail.com www.lloyd.de

MONACO CASHMERE (212)5214096 alexander@monacocashmere.com www.monacocashmere.com

LONDON FOG (213)624-1048 pkcdeim@live.com www.gruppobravo.com

MONTALIANI (390)871-5781 info@montaliani.it www.montaliani.it & www.rodrigo.eu

LONDON SOCK COMPANY 44(777)333-9601 ryanp@londonsockcompany.com www.londonsockcompany.com

MONTECHIARO 39(309)962-456 customerservice@montechiarousa.com www.montechiarousa.com

LONE PINE LEATHERS (323)584-8743 susan@lonepineleathers.com

MOORE & GILES (800)737-0169 elizabeth@mooreandgiles.com www.mooreandgiles.com

LOOMINUS WOODSTOCK (845)679-6500 mf.loominus@gmail.com www.loominus.com

MOTHER FREEDOM (480)235-0753 aaron@motherfreedom.com www.motherfreedom.com

LORENZONI 39(646)520-5844 customerservice@montechiarousa.com www.montechiarousa.com

NAT NAST LUXURY ORIGINALS (212)575-1186 dawn@natnast.com www.natnast.com

LOUDMOUTH GOLF NECKWEAR (212)714-9611 steven@jimmysales.com www.jimmysales.com

NATURAL BASIX (917)287-8146 info@naturalbasix.com www.naturalbasix.com

LUCHIANO VISCONTI (516)877-2559 sasha@luchianovisconti.com www.luchianovisconti.com

NAVIGARE (212)563-3687 navigareusa@gmail.com www.navigare.eu

LUCHIANO VISCONTI BLACK (516)877-2559 sasha@luchianovisconti.com www.luchianovisconti.com

NICK GRAHAM (646)370-4009 allen@nickgraham.com www.nickgraham.com

LUCIANO MORESCO (212)397-4300 luciano@lucianomoresco.com www.lucianomoresco.com

NICOLE MILLER (212)695-1130 daniel@bmgimports.com; anna@bmgimports.com www.bmgimports.com

MACEOO (972)3428475 m@maceoo.com www.maceoo.com

NIGEL KNOX (212)757-4664 jmckenry@birddoggroup.net www.birddoggroup.net

MADISON CREEK OUTFITTERS (706)824-1905 sales@madisoncreekoutfitters.com www.madisoncreekoutfitters.com

NIKKY (646)415-8545 nikky@nikkycapri.com www.nikkycapri.com

MAJESTIC INTERNATIONAL (514)727-2000 w.thompson@majesticinternational.com www.majesticinternational.com

ORIGINAL PENGUIN HOSIERY (914)345-0330 sales@britishapparel.com www.britishapparel.com

MAKER AND COMPANY (212)695-3551 info@makerandcompany.com www.makerandcompany.com

OVERTON (800)333-8398 chucktnorwood@gmail.com

MANTONI (800)993-9688 pkcdeim@live.com www.gruppobravo.com

PACIFIC SILK (949)496-8437 geoffnicholson@yahoo.com www.pacificsilk.net

MARC JOSEPH NEW YORK (212)575-2275 jacob@marcjosephny.com www.marcjosephnewyork.com

PAISLEY & GRAY (212)262-5395 vincegonzalesnyc@gmail.com www.paisley&gray.com

MARCELLO SPORT (561)824-2400 darren.apel@fashionconcepts.com www.marcellosport.com

PANTHERELLA (212)944-7625 jclapp@pantherella.com www.pantherella.com

MARCHESI DI COMO (514)271-1112 jin@abbeyties.com

PAOLO ALBIZZATI 39(033)242-7800 info@paoloalbizzati.com www.paoloalbizzati.com

MARCO VALENTINO (213)623-6231 angelo4444@sbcglobal.net www.marco-valentino.com

PARABOOT 33(476)938-800 h.saporis@paraboot.com www.paraboot.com

MARINI SILVANO-INVOGA 39(073)476-0437 simone@marinisilvano.com, info@marinisilvano.com www.marinisilvano.com

PARK WEST (323)264-3000 david@michaelbrandon.com

MASSIMILIANO STANCO (516)277-1017 ms@maxstanco.com www.maxstanco.com

PATRICK ASSARAF (212)265-7566 vanessat@pyausa.com; howardk@pyausa.com www.pyaimporter.com

MAYSER HATS (305)819-6640 worldhatco@aol.com www.mayserheadwear.com

PAUL BETENLY CLOTHING (626)373-1666 suitmanda@cox.net www.pbetenly.com The Brands @ MRketNY 91

PEERLESS BOYS (212)541-8720 daynac@peerclo.com www.peerless-clothing.com

RIVIERA RED (514)866-4891 info@rivieracollection.ca www.rivieracollection.ca

PEERLESS CLOTHING USA, INC. (212)541-8720 suzannea@peerlessclothing.com www.peerless-clothing.com

ROBERT BARAKETT (206)267-2850 jonesharvey@mac.com www.robertbarakett.com

PENROSE LONDON 44(789)055-4107 fiona@penrose-london.com

ROBERT GRAHAM HOSIERY (914)345-0330 sales@britishapparel.com www.britishapparel.com

PER PEDES (914)345-0330 smendez@britishapparel.com www.britishapparel.com

ROBERT GRAHAM LOUNGEWEAR & UNDERWEAR (203)373-1853 w.thompson@majesticinternational.com www.majesticinternational.com

PERU UNLIMITED (800)647-1193 peruunlimited@embarqmail.com www.peruunlimitedusa.com

ROMA INDUSTRIES (212)268-0723 hbaum@romaind.com www.dimensionsbelts.com

PERUVIANNI (407)831-2788 peruunlimited@embarqmail.com www.peruunlimitedusa.com

ROWDY GENTLEMAN (512)589-0580 matt@rowdygentleman.com www.rowdygentleman.cm

PETER BARTON/THE DUNLAP WEAVERS (212)765-3140 pbarton251@msn.com

S. COHEN INC. (212)664-1058 patrickC@scoheninc.com www.scoheninc.com

PETER-BLAIR ACCESSORIES (804)716-9099 dickfowlkes@peterblairltd.com www.peter-blair.com

SAINT JAMES (800)681-2631 sales@saint-james.com www.saint-james.com

PIETRO PROVENZALE 39(335)844-7354 info@pietroprovenzale.it www.pietroproveuzale.it

SANI GUALTIERO FIRENZE 39(05)531-9268 info@sanigualtiero.com www.sanigualtiero.com/en

PRIVATE STOCK NECKWEAR AND ACCESSORIES (973)763-3474 gcahn@privatestockmenswear.com www.privatestockmenswear.com

SANYO (212)869-2990 s.tungol@sanyonewyork.com www.sanyonewyork.com

PROPER SHIRTINGS (310)327-0050 ryan.park@christopherlena.com www.christopherlena.com

SCHNEIDERS SALZBURG (212)768-1590 schneiders@schneidersusa.com www.schneidersusa.com

PULITO ABBIGLIAMENTO DAL 1885 39(080)497-2864 info@pulitointernational.it www.pulitointernational.it

SCOTT & CHARTERS (845)781-8185 jim@kuehnert.com www.kuehnert.com

PULL-IN (646)590-2164 carole@pull-in.com www.pull-in.com

SCOTT NICHOL (212)944-7625 jclapp@pantherella.com www.scott-nichol.com

PUNTO (914)345-0330 sales@britishapparel.com www.britishapparel.com

SEAN JOHN (212)541-8720 suzannea@peerlessclothing.com www.peerless-clothing.com

PUNTO BLANCO 34(617)945-542 mcarrillo@puntoblanco.com www.puntoblanco.com

SEAWARD + STEARN LONDON 44(207)403-9770 gary@vii-fold.com

RAFFI LINEA UOMO (516)621-5000 jau@raffilineauomo.com www.raffionline.com

SEBASTIEN JAMES COLLECTION (305)576-4470 marc@sebastienjames.com www.sebastienjames.com

RAGUSA 1970-TAYLORS 39(399)961-3770 info@zamas.it zamas.it

SILVIO FIORELLO 39(093)569-4444 info@silviofiorello.com www.silviofiorello.com

RAMBLERS WAY (207)467-8118 megan@ramblersway.com www.ramblersway.com

SIMON CARTER 44(208)683-4475 export@simoncarter.net www.simoncarter.net

REMO TULLIANI (480)307-9100 kate@tulliani.com www.tulliani.com

SINCLAIR (212)586-5029 givifashion@gmail.com www.sinclair.it

REMY LEATHER (213)747-5493 justin@remyleather.com

SMATHERS AND BRANSON (301)229-9436 peter@smathersandbranson.com www.smathersandbranson.com

RENCO 39(335)711-7257 roberto.macri@rencostore.com www.rencostore.com

SOUTHERN MARSH (225)490-9548 sean@southernmarshshirts.com www.southernmarsh.com

REPORT COLLECTION (212)997-2355 seth@reportcollection.com www.reportcollection.com

SOUTHERN PROPER (770)654-4496 emmie@southernproper.com www.southernproper.com

REPORTER (212)245-4015 administration@cantoniusa.com www.inghirami.com

SOUTHERN TIDE (864)236-8015 pwolford@southerntide.com www.southerntide.com

RHODY RED (401)619-7660 holebrookusa@gmail.com www.holebrookusa.com

SOUTHWICK (212)885-8938 rsquillaro@southwick.com

RICHARD JAMES (212)944-7625 jclapp@pantherella.com www.pantherella.com

ST. CROIX AND HERITAGE BY ST. CROIX (507)454-1163 sales@stcroixcollections.com www.stcroixcollections.com

RICHMART 35(988)403-4645 sales@richmart.eu www.richmart.eu

STATE TRADITIONS (205)254-8933 keith@statetraditions.com www.statetraditions.com

92 The Brands @ MRketNY

STETSON HATS (972)494-0511 gmiller@hat-co.com www.hat-co.com

TOSCANO FIRENZE (212)265-7566 vanessat@pyausa.com www.pyaimporter.com

SURVIVALON (203)550-5603 bert.survivalon@gmail.com www.survivalon-llc.com

TRAFALGAR (212)768-8800 ricem@randa.net www.trafalgarcompany.com

TACCALITI SHIRTS 39(071)731-331 g.taccaliti@giovannitaccaliti.it www.giovannitaccaliti.it

TRANDS USA (858)220-9570 todd@trandsusa.com www.trandsusa.com

TAILOR VINTAGE (212)840-1871 richard@tailorvintage.com

TRUE GRIT (949)548-9095 makofoed@truegrit.com www.truegrit.com

TAGIO (800)824-7987 marc@tagamerica.com www.tagamerica.com

TRUEFITT & HILL (888)763-6488 info@truefittandhill.com www.truefittandhill.com

TAILORBYRD (212)704-4014 tyoung@tailorbyrd.com www.tailorbyrd.com

TRYBUS (646)963-6774 dschuster@trybus.com; connie@trybus.com www.trybus.com

TALLIA ORANGE (212)541-8720 daynac@peerless-clothing.com www.talliaorange.com

UMBERTO VALLATI (212)265-0101 jodina@msn.com

TALLIA ORANGE HOSIERY (212)714-9611 steven@jimmysales.com www.jimmysales.com

VALSTAR (212)969-9683 amministrazione@valstar.it www.valstar.it

TAMPA FUEGO (212)268-0723 hbaum@romaind.com www.tampafuego.com

VENTO DI MARE (212)563-3687 navigareusa@gmail.com www.navigare.eu

TARDIA 39(080)480-4211 tardia@tardia.it www.tardia.it

VILLA DELMITIA 39(247)711-085 info@villadelmitia.com www.villadelmitia.com

TATEOSSIAN LTD. (201)966-7525 kathy@tateossian.com www.tateossian.com

VINEYARD VINES (800)435-9008 taylor@vineyardvines.com www.vineyardvines.com

THADDEUS (646)821-4494 sales@thaddeusapparel.com www.thaddeusapparel.com

VITALIANO 39(051)323-220 vitaliano@vitalianopancaldi.com www.vitaliano.eu

THE BIRD DOG GROUP (212)757-4664 jmckenry@birddoggroup.net www.birddoggroup.net

VIYELLA (800)663-5449 sales@viyella.ca www.viyella.ca

THE BRITISH APPAREL COLLECTION LTD. (914)345-0330 sales@britishapparel.com www.britishapparel.com

WEATHER REPORT (212)664-1058 patrickc@scoheninc.com www.scoheninc.com

THE BRITISH BELT COMPANY 44(157)282-2261 sales@thebritishbeltcompany.com www.thebritishbeltcompany.com

WIGENS (520)818-9366 gary@wigenshats.com www.wigens.se

THOMAS HANCOCK VA (845)781-8185 jim@kuehnert.com www.hancockva.com

WILLIAM LOCKIE (145)037-2645 ptrwylie@aol.com www.williamlockie.com

THOMPSON 44(201)966-7525 kathy@tateossian.com; sarah@tateossian.com www.tateossian.com

WM LAMB & SON (770)654-4496 emmie@southernproper.com www.southernproper.com

TIGER MOUNTAIN (800)333-8398 chucktnorwood@gmail.com

ZANETTI (310)478-8660 sandym@zanetti.com www.zanetti.com

TIGLIO INC. (213)744-1833 info@tiglio.com www.tiglio.com

ZERO RESTRICTION (212)302-7255 mdwyer@summitgolfbrands.com www.zerorestriction.com

TIGLIO LUXE (213)744-1833 bruce@tiglio.com;info@tiglio.com www.tiglio.com TIGLIO SPORT (213)744-1833 bruce@tiglio.com;info@tiglio.com www.tiglio.com TINO COSMA (845)363-6253 info.usa@tinocosma.com www.tinocosma.com TOMMY BAHAMA LEATHER GOODS (212)209-5145 ricem@randa.net www.trafalgarcompany.com

Company names listed are accurate as of publishing, but do not reflect our final list of exhibitors.

TORI RICHARD, LTD. (808)847-7041 mail@toririchard.com www.toririchard.com TORINO (504)738-3480 tomtorino@gmail.com www.torinoleather.com TORRAS (212)265-5088 jodina@msn.com www.torras.com The Brands @ MRketNY 93

94

95

FROM RAVES TO RUNWAYS Lulu Kennedy on the evolution of London Collections: Men.

By William Buckley

W

brands, press, and theyʼll give them such great advice. Not always what they want to hear but itʼs good for them. They tend to come out of Central St. Martins, Westminster, the Royal College of Art. Although you do get the odd wild card who comes out of nowhere. Henry Hollandʼs one. He didnʼt follow the normal route at all. When we showed him at Fashion East Womenʼs he just had girls in T-Shirts with Doc Martens and over-the-knee socks, it was fabulous. We do a lot with the talent we're working with. They're young, edgy, exciting. They sum up all of Londonʼs energy.

Fashion East has gone from strength to strength since you started And now the event spans four days, with LC:M showing some of the the non-profit in 2000. A partnership with Topman in 2005 gave biggest brands in the world. How do you continue to grow? rise to the MAN initiative, which in turn gave rise to LC:M. Why an We arenʼt focused on growing. I think at this point itʼs about honing, initiative for young designers? What was your fashion background? focusing, fine tuning, so itʼs as effective as it can be. Are we really Honestly, I have no fashion background. Well, my dad used to sell vin- doing the best we possibly can for these young designers? Do we do tage clothing in Camden Market, so I used to help, and I worked in what we say on the tin, which Kensington Market; do you remember Kensington Market? Pete is to support them, launch Burns stomping around in his Gorilla coat. I loved it. Then I lived in them? Weʼre always Italy organizing raves and you just wore whatever you didnʼt mind questioning what we losing in a field. A boiler suit? Anything you could dance in and not do and trying to make freeze. So nothing to do with fashion, no college, nothing. Just lucky. it better. I donʼt think So how did it all come about? bigger necessarily I was headhunted on the street in Brick Lane. The new owners of the means better.

Old Truman Brewery needed someone to help rent out these huge warehouses: parties, launch events, etc. I was really drawn to the fashion events. The younger designers that I knew locally would ask me if we could help. Iʼd go to the landlord and tell him how talented they were, and could we give them a warehouse for free, and heʼd say sure. After a year or two of doing this the brewery was taking off and the owner wanted to give something back. We decided to start a project for young designers.

So how does a small non-profit for new designers lead to LC:M? Fashion East had been going for five years when we launched menswear, so we already had a good track record. Weʼd got some good names under our belt like Jonathan Saunders, House of Holland and Gareth Pugh, so weʼd laid the foundations. We formed a panel who advised us well and I think thatʼs why it took off. When we approached Topman, we had such confidence that it was relevant, that we werenʼt just pitching some idea that wasnʼt going to work. At first it was literally just us and Topman doing our MAN show; that was it.

Other brands started showing until there was an afternoonʼs worth.

All the menswear press started taking it seriously, and making time for it, so we started talking̶us, Topman, and the British Fashion Council̶to figure out if there was enough for a day or two, and perhaps if we got one or two anchor brands to come on board then it could really become a feasible standalone event. And thatʼs what happened.

You have Fashion Eastʼs presentation and the MAN show. How are they different? And how do you find the talent?

I guess you could call Fashion East entry level, a multi-brand static presentation. For these kids at that level, it suits them better than putting them on a great big runway. It gives them a chance to build up over a season or two and then maybe they move over to the MAN show, which is a three-brand runway show. We groom them for that show: Are they working with the right stylist, the right PR? The panel, apart from helping us select talent also mentors them: major buyers,

96 MR | www.MRketplace.com

PHOTO BY PAUL WETHERELL

ith a schedule so jam-packed that the formerly three-day event has been increased to four, youʼd be forgiven for thinking the catalyst for London Collections: Men was something more meteoric than the unassuming East Londoner Lulu Kennedy. Although if youʼd spent an afternoon eating grilled cheese sandwiches with the director of Fashion East at the Ace Hotelʼs Hoi Polloi, as I did, you would quickly see that the word “meteoric” quite succinctly sums her up.

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