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THE INTERNET GUIDE TO THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY WORLDWIDE
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I N T E R N E T
N. 2 / 2018 - bimestrale - mte Edizioni s.r.l. - Via r. gessi 28 - 20146 Milano - Tariffa R.O.C.: Poste Italiane s.p.a. Spedizione in abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB - Modena - €7 In caso di mancato recapito inviare al CPO MODENA per la restituzione previo pagamento resi. - CONTIENE SUPPLEMENTO
YO U R B U S I N E S S PA RT N E R F O R D O M E S T I C & D U T Y F R E E M A R K E T S WO R L D W I D E
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Advertisers’ index 14/15
COMPANY Deborah Group
44-45 52-53 62 70
EVENTS CBE – China Beauty Expo Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Makeup in Beauty Istanbul
34-35 54-56
On the cover: Giorgia, the latest feminine fragrance by Franck Olivier, Paris N. 2 ANNO XXXVIII MARCH / APRIL 2018 MARZO / APRILE 2018 BIMONTHLY DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano n. 85 del 16/02/1991 Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena Printing: Formagrafica s.r.l. - Carpi (MO) Art Director Teresa Tibaldi Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl Via Romolo Gessi, 28 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/48.95.23.05 Telefax 02/41.23.405 E-mail: mteedizi@mteedizioni.it Managing Editor Giuseppe Tirabasso Editor-in-chief Claudia Stagno E-mail: export.magazine@mteedizioni.it Consultants Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom Francesca Bonelli - Roberto Cimarosa Valerie Kaminov - Rebecca Lazzari Joan Rundo - Simona Verga Catherine Wrenn P.R. Promotion Italy: M.T.E. Edizioni
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INTERVIEW Astra Make up: S. Settimi Ancorotti Cosmetics: R. Ancorotti – E. Romeo
58-59 60-61
ICR: R. Martone – A. Martone Mascara Plus: O. Riccaboni – A. Carminati
64-65
Red of View: C. Bondioli
6 8 10 12 20-21 30 36 68
LAUNCH Transvital Genny iCare Collistar Amo Ferragamo Notebook Franck Olivier Paris Divage
38/40 50-51
REPORT France: V. Kaminov Beautystreams: M. Soperchi
Amo Ferragamo Arrogance Artdeco Astra Beautystreams Beauty Eurasia Beauty Istanbul Beautyworld Japan Beautyworld Middle East Bellaoggi Beyond Beauty Asean Bangkok CBE- China Beauty Expo Collistar Cosmetech Cosme Tokyo Cosmoprof Asia Cosmoprof Bologna Cosmoprof India Cosmoprof North America Divage Farmeco –Covermark Franck Olivier Paris Genny Guucure Hue Cosmetics iCare Intercharm Moscow Make up In MANE My Style Trend Fair Pollution Free The First Transvital
2-3 22-33 27 31-32-33-IV 49 66 71 67 57 78/80-III 75 41 5 43 76 26 13 46 48 69 28-29 Cover-37 9 II-1 72-73 11 42 63 47 74 18-19 24-25 7
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LAUNCH A complete anti-age line that returns new-found youth to the skin thanks to the latest achievements of Swiss laboratories. Transvital has developed a line which offers the most advanced and complete anti-age treatment: the Perfecting line. Based on the latest results of research carried out in Swiss laboratories, the main ingredient of the line is the Skin Bio Matrix Complex, excellent for fighting lines, wrinkles and fortifying and the skin, recompacting its density and elasticity. This revolutionary ingredient, an intelligent complex made up of the same substance as skin, collagen, repairs the dermic matrix, making the epidermo-dermic juncture the best approach to fighting wrinkles effectively. The Skin Bio Matrix Complex offers the luxury of skin perfection thanks to the triple action system. The soluble elements are released into the skin and the native insoluble collagen fibres form a 3D network, providing intense moisture transfer to the skin. In the second action, native collagen molecules are transferred into the skin, strengthening the skin’s moisture binding capacity and supporting the smoothing out of wrinkles and thirdly, skin-identical collagen peptides are transferred into the skin: their small size allows them to penetrate deep into the skin. The peptides act as signal substances in skin recovery, influencing tissue regeneration and cell metabolism. The skin becomes smooth and firm, irritated skin is rapidly calmed and takes on a fresh and radiant look. Transvital Perfecting anti-age treatments restore the skin’s tone and suppleness and improve the cells’ breathing.
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TRANSVITAL perfecting treatments to restore skin to perfection
The products Perfecting Anti-Age Cream has been developed with an extraordinarily effective anti-age formula that fights the many causes of skin ageing. It perceptibly regenerates, restructures, hydrates, protects and firms. The skin looks younger, compact and smoother as lines fade. Exquisitely creamy, it is rich and gentle with unique polysensorial qualities. Perfecting Collagen Mask is a 100% pure collagen mask. It contains native collagen, with collagen fibres, molecules and peptides to give a moisturizing, anti-wrinkle and regenerating effect; Matrixyl 3000 which stimulates the fibroblasts to produce new collagen and elastin fibres and anti-age cellular emulsion to help keep the densifying and fleshy effect, bringing back natural brightness and firmness typical of young skin. Perfecting Radiance Mask is an immediate-effect mask that restores luminosity to the face, eliminating dullness and signs of tiredness, making it ideal for tired and dull skin. The skin will feel instantly elastic and smooth. Transvital has also developed two products specifically for the eye are:
Perfecting Lift Eye Contour is a complete anti-wrinkle and firming treatment for the eye contour area. Smooth and creamy, its immediate lifting products will also reduce under-eye circles and puffiness. Perfecting Extra Lift Eye Serum is an intensive serum treatment for the eye contour area. Its anti-age formula ensures instant lift as it recompacts the skin.
The newest addition to the line Perfecting Recovery Treatment is an intensive bi-phase anti-age treatment. Phase One rebalances the cell functions and boosts the effectiveness of the second step; Phase Two restores luminosity and restructures the skin. The result is visibly improved tone and compactness.
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LAUNCH
GENNY PLATINUM exalting a unique, courageous and contemporary femininity
The long-established ready-to-wear brand presents its latest exclusive creation Genny, a historical brand of readyto-wear, represents the pride of Italian fashion which has conquered the world thanks to its codes of elegance, creativity and uniqueness, contributing the creating the fame of Italian ready-to-ear in the world in a modern and contemporary key. Its recent important commercial partnership with Eurocosmesi, a division of Coswell, marks the start of a new and profitable collaboration between two Italian companies which thanks to their dynamism and creativity, have contributed to building up an idea of total authenticity of Italian products.
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Genny is only the latest brand in time to collaborate with Eurocosmesi, which develops and distributes all over the world products in the segments of fragrances and specialized personal care, translating famous signatures of Italian fashion into success stories on the world market. Platinum is the romantic story of the eternal translation of nature into light, of force into energy, beauty into transparency and simplicity into dynamism. The elements merge into a noble, mystical and sensual dimension, to exalt a unique, courageous and contemporary femininity.
Platinum is the absolute value of a neoclassic beauty as an ideal of existence, identified in the grace, perfection and harmony of the proportions. Its top notes are sparkling and fruity: Cassis, Violet Leaves and Raspberry then open the way to the refined floral notes of rose, iris and lily of the valley in the heart of this exclusive composition. The delicious floral bouquet is enveloped in the notes of amber and sandalwood, exalting its sensuality. The bottle holding this masterpiece of refinement has a design as unique as the fragrance it contains. Sophisticated dazzle and transparency enchant the sight, whilst the olfactory notes of the fragrance form a vibrant embrace of grace and harmony. The outer packaging is sophisticated and refined, bearing the female symbol and the name in platinum letters against a white background. Genny Platinum has been composed by the nose Pierre Kurzenne and is available as an Eau de Parfum in the two sizes of 50 ml and 100 ml.
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LAUNCH
iCARE a new concept of
skincare and make-up
Products to care for and beautify made with the maximum respect for people, nature, animals, the world
The iCare skincare and make-up line by S.I.R.P.E.A. is based on a new concept of ethics which is summed up in its name: iCare = I care. To be faithful to its name, iCare pays maximum respect to people, nature, animals and the world. It does this through offering its consumers a sound, prestigious, effective product at a price in line with the quality offered, without false promises. Its respect for nature is shown through the packaging , using only recyclable packaging. No product is tested on animals but only in laboratories or on volunteers. Lastly, it respects the world by helping people in need directly, dedicating 3% of its turnover to charities chosen by its consumers. In addition, once a treatment has been formulated by the iCare researchers, they do not consider their job over, but continue to improve it. All the products are constantly reformulated so that they can contain in their formulas the innovations that cosmetic science and dermatology discover. The mission of iCare is to slow down the physiological processes of skin ageing and the tissue improvement of the skin, through peerless formulas not available on the traditional market.
iCare Make-up iCare make-up is more than simple make-up, but a technologically advanced line, made to the highest standards of quality and safety, combining “colour” with treatment so that every woman can complete her beauty routine in an optimal way. All the products are formulated with highly effective active ingredients, the formulations are hyperallergenic and suitable for even the most sensitive skins. Skin is prepared for the application of the colour cosmetics with the Make-up Base. Foundation come in a number of versions (Moisturizing Fluid, Moisturizing Compact, Wet & Dry), to meet different
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The treatments are all of very high quality, suitable for all skin types, even the most sensitive and intolerant, to correct various skin problems; wrinkles, lines of expression, marks, rdness, dark circles or bags under the eyes and so on. The avant-garde formulations of iCare are mainly based on the most innovative active ingredients in cosmetic research: DERMCOM™, which stimulates the communication between the cells of the skin, fosters the production of collagen and elastin and gives new elasticity to the skin; HYANIFY™, which fights dehydration and wrinkles, promoting a replumping effect and reducing the visible signs of age and PRIGELINE™+ ADIPOFILL™, this association allows reducing the appearance of lines of expression and controls skin relaxation, with a complete remodelling effect; PHYTOCELLTEC™ ARGAN, deemed by iCare to be one of the most extraordinary active ingredients produced in the history of cosmetics that can revitalize the stem cells of the dermis, fight chronological ageing of the skin the formation of wrinkles and the reduction of skin compactness. Thanks to the rigour and ethics at pharmaceutical level of the products, they are the most valid alternative to drastic surgical/aesthetic procedures. The iCare formulas do not contain parabens, liquid paraffin, petrolates, allergens, fragrance or synthetic colouring or the harmful substances that are often the cause of allergies. The iCare packaging is all airless to guarantee in time their preservation and avoid bacterial retro-contamination. Skincare products range from iClean and iScrub to prepare the skin, iRejuvenate, iHydrate, iLift, iRenew and iProtect to carry out specific actions for the well-being and health of the skin, iShine, an illuminating cream for a glowing skin, iLift Eyes Lips, iRepulp and iMask for effective answers to specific problems.
requirements and preferences. Perfection Concealer covers imperfections and Precious Bronzer and Shiny Blush give highlights of colour and warmth. Invisible Powder and Velvety Powder put the finishing touches to the complexion. The eye make-up comprises two mascaras (Extra Volume and 3 in 1 Waterproof), two Eyeliners (Definition and Long Wearing), Eyeshadows in mono or trio compacts, a Silk Effect Eye Pencil, Intense Eyes Khol, and a Highlighter for the eyes, to conceal imperfections of the eye contour. Lips are offered a Liquid 24 Lipstock or Soft Lips Lipstick, Scintillating Gloss, and High Definition Lip Pencil, all in a wide variety of beautiful colours.
iCare also has a Cleansing Micellar Water to delicately remove makeup, even waterproof, leaving skin fresh and pleasant to the touch.
MAKE–UP THAT COMBINES COLOR AND SKIN CARE FUNCTIONS IN ONE
Suitable for sensitive skins Hypoallergenic formula* Conceived with functional active ingredients Nickel tested Heavy Metal tested Paraben Free Recycable packaging Technologically advanced manufacturing standard Maximum quality and safety * products formulated to minimize allergy risks S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. - Via della Liberazione 56 - 20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) Italy - Tel. +39 02.98.280.925 (6 lines a.r.) - www.sirpea.com - info@sirpea.com
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LAUNCH
COLLISTAR unique products for women
who are free to be themselves The Italian brand presents a new make-up collection and a new lipstick
The packaging also has an exclusive magnetic closure: just one click, and the magnetic cap closes quickly over the lipstick in a sensual, gratifying gesture. The colour range offers 15 + 3 colours, in shades of nude, pink and red, and includes 3 limited editions in coral, ruby and amethyst with special macropearls for metallic reflections. The 15 passe-partout shades have a finish that is less pearlized but an equally full, saturated colour from the first application.
Libera Spring Summer collection
Unico Lipstick Unico Lipstick is the new and unique lip product from Collistar which promises exceptional cover and comfort. Full colour is released from the very first coat, defining lips perfectly without smudging or going over the lip contours. In addition, the colour and texture stay true, while ultramoisturizing the lips thanks to its blend of ultra-light oils extracted from lotus flower and bixa orellana, the “lipstick tree� which also ensure protection from free radicals and pollution. Like the Mascara Volume Unico launched last year, Lipstick Unico also has the line motif on the packaging and on the lipstick itself, embossed with perfect horizontal lines culminating at the tip with the exclusive Collistar logo.
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Libera! Free to be yourself and 1000 other women at one and the same time. This is the spirit of the new Collistar make-up collection for Spring Summer. An essential palette of 10 different shades in four colourways of eyeshadow allows experimenting with colour.
As well as the extra-large mirror and double-ended applicator, the palette contains 10 creamy eyeshadows in different colourways for four different looks. Happy goes from cool and apricot to orange; Glamour offers delicate shades of pink, in Minimal, nude tones are the star of the show, and Fashion offers 10 shades of white, grey, anthracite and black. Exceptional adherence, a thin, adaptable film, immediate pigment release, a rich creamy texture and the chance to try out different finishes: pearlized, matte or satin. Volume Unico Mascara in intense waterproof black joins the Libera line-up: its super-soft texture, enabling repeated applications, an intensely restructuring formula and the applicator, with two brushes with fibres of different lengths ensure extra volume and thickness and a unique result. Sexy Lip Gloss with Vitamin E and SPF 20 is a perfect interpretation of the mood expected to dominate next summer: in two shades, nude and pink, it has a soft, creamy consistency which releases a veil of radiant colour. The gloss comes as a geometric stick with a luxurious feel. BB Stick Perfect Touch-up is like a modern talisman for the quick correction of blemishes, dark circles and shadows and for use as a foundation. The natural, adaptable matte finish and oil-free texture makes it perfect even for combination and oily skins.
2019 EDITION
14 – 17 MARCH
15 – 18 MARCH
A new world for beauty Bologna, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Mumbai
Company of
With the participation of
BOLOGNA, ITALY FAIR DISTRICT
cosmoprof.com
Organiser BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a, Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 F +39 02 795 036 info@cosmoprof.it
In partnership with
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COMPANY
deborah milano design collection
Since 1962 Deborah Milano has upheld values that place a premium on beauty in its every form, whether it’s make-up, fashion or design.
© Keith Haring Foundation. www.haring.com. Licensed by Artestar, New York
For the last 18 years the brand has partnered nationally and internationally with acclaimed artists to create “design objects” that have caught the world’s attention: make-up that brings together superior cosmetic performance with iconic, eye-catching packaging. Another unique collection is being offered this year with its inspiration drawn from the imagery of Keith Haring, the artist who symbolises the New York City street culture of the 1980s.
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The Keith Haring Design Collection celebrates the great artist whose pop art and graffiti-inspired work gave him global popularity, appearing everywhere from subway stations to the most glamorous art galleries, and in numerous exhibitions and retrospectives.
latest beauty trends for Spring/Summer, such as Il Rossetto, Mascara 24Ore Absolute Volume, 24Ore Eye Pencil, Kajal Pencil, 2in1 Kajal&Eyeliner Gel Pencil, 24Ore Waterproof Eye Pencil and the luxurious special edition Trio Contour Palette and Trio Blush Palette.
His stylised figures and brilliantly hued shapes adorn some of the brand’s classics as well as exclusive products embodying the
These purse-sized masterpieces are for cherishing… and showing off.
COMPANY
THE RANGE IL ROSSETTO KEITH HARING DESIGN Deborah Milano’s iconic Il Rossetto Lipstick. The soft, creamy texture is enriched with Vitamin A, C and E. Leaves lips gorgeously glossy and superbly hydrated. With UVA/ UVB filters. Available in 4 exclusive shades. The stick is embellished with an iconic Keith Haring drawing.
2IN1 KAJAL&EYELINER GEL PENCIL KEITH HARING DESIGN Gel-effect eye pencil for a lastingly intense gaze. Looks freshly applied for up to 16 hours when used as eyeliner and up to 8 as Kajal. The lusciously creamy consistency imparts highly pigmented colour and can be used on both the inner and outer rim of the eyes. Waterproof and transfer-proof. 24ORE WP EYE PENCIL KEITH HARING DESIGN Automatic retractable eye pencil. Silky smooth, gliding texture. Formulated with a high concentration of pigments and silicone resins, the black pencil releases bold, long-lasting colour for flawless smudge-free definition. Waterproof.
MASCARA 24 ORE ABSOLUTE VOLUME KEITH HARING DESIGN Ultra-volumising long-lasting mascara. The fibre maxi-brush coats and separates each eyelash creating awesome volume. Also available in an Extra Black version.
24ORE EYE PENCIL KEITH HARING DESIGN Black eye pencil with an incredibly comfortable feel. Defines the lash line precisely and lastingly with flawless colour. KAJAL PENCIL KEITH HARING DESIGN Super-soft eye pencil releases blacker-thanblack colour. Blends easily. Safe for using on both the inner and outer rim of the eyes.
TRIO CONTOUR KEITH HARING DESIGN Three matte powders for professional looking contouring in three simple steps: sculpt, blend and highlight, going from the darkest shade to the lightest. The powders are embellished with an iconic Keith Haring drawing.
TRIO BLUSH KEITH HARING DESIGN Three blushes for creating a naturallooking glow and completing your Spring beauty routine. Each shade can be used alone or blended for a flatteringly trendy flush of colour. The powders are embellished with an iconic Keith Haring drawing.
Keith Haring (1958-90) was one of the most renowned of the young artists, filmmakers, performers and musicians whose work responded to urban street culture of the 1980s. Inspired by the graffiti artists whose marks covered the city’s subway cars, Haring began to draw in white chalk over the black paper used to cover vacant advertising panels. Not only was Haring was able to reach a large and diverse audience with his subway drawings, but, eventually, the subway became, as Haring said, a “laboratory” for working out his ideas. As early as 1980, Haring began exhibiting in galleries and museums around the world, but continued to participate in public projects. Throughout his career, Haring produced murals, sculptures and paintings to benefit hospitals, underprivileged children’s groups and various community health organizations. Haring has been the subject of several international retrospectives. His work is in major private and public collections, including those of the Museum of Modern Art; the Whitney Museum of American Art; Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Art Institute of Chicago; the Bass Museum in Miami; Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris; Ludwig Museum, Cologne; and Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam.
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COMPANY
ROUGE BAISER PARIS
the undisputed lip artist
Rouge Baiser Paris. The name alone conjures up images of makeup history, product innovation and quintessentially French allure. The celebrated Parisian make-up brand is distributed by Deborah Group through perfumeries and selected retail stores. With lipstick accounting for more than a half of the entire product range, Rouge Baiser Paris is positioned on the beauty market as the undisputed artiste des lèvres, a true specialist in lip make-up.
A track record driven by innovation Rouge Baiser Paris has a long history studded with spectacular success. The brand’s philosophy has always placed a strong emphasis on blending innovation with experience, and over the years, this concept has become its mission. The brand was founded in 1927 and quickly rose to fame with a product that was light years ahead of its time: L’Authentique – the very first indelible, “kiss-proof” lipstick, which went on to become the brand’s hallmark. The French chemist, Paul Baudecroux, came up with the idea of adding simple face powder to the then classic lipstick formula, creating a product that women in the 1930s all craved. Rouge Baiser became a symbol of femininity and seduction and lipstick became an emblem of women’s emancipation, triggering a veritable social revolution.
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Lips to kiss: a true “Bar à lèvres” In the lip segment, Rouge Baiser Paris boasts an unrivalled level of know-how. The product range covers a mind-boggling array of colours, some of which reflect the very latest trends while others
are timeless hues that never go out of style. The textures also offer a multitude of options, from matte to glossy, velvet to sheer, and frosted to lacquered, giving all women – even the most demanding – the perfect choice for every occasion.
COMPANY
More than just lips to kiss
A flawlessly fashioned logo
Over the years, the Rouge Baiser range has been enriched with all the must-have products for a complete make-up look. The range boasts more than 180 references, including not only lipsticks, but also foundations, face powders, mascaras, eyeshadows, pencils and enamels. Innovative, high performing, hypoallergenic formulas.
Rouge Baiser Paris has always been driven by powerful synergies with art, history and fashion. In 1949, the artist Renato Zavagli Ricciardelli (better known as René Gruau) met Rouge Baiser and began a partnership that led the Parisian cosmetics house to create a unique brand identity through his sketches, including the iconic “Femme au Bandeau”. The “woman in a blindfold” was created especially for Rouge Baiser and stands as an inimitable symbol of charm, seduction and style. The picture was later chosen as the logo of the Parisian cosmetics brand, a choice that was quite remarkable for the time yet still resonates in today’s world.
“Bar à lèvres” In 2018 Rouge Baiser Paris, the lip artist since 1927 reinvents lip beauty, creating the BAR A LEVRES concept. Beauty gestures become art allowing every woman to personalize her smile! For the very first time the Rouge Baiser International Make Up Artist, Isabelle Pain offers THE LIP ART of the lip artist, Rouge Baiser Paris. With the wide ranges of lipsticks it is possible to create truly customized looks for multiple and different lips ranging from the most natural to the most sophisticated. The lip specialist, Rouge Baiser Paris perfectly meets all the desires and all the trends! The “lips to kiss” lipstick returns with new beauty codes.
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MEET US AT: COSMOPROF WORLDWIDE 15TH-19TH MARCH - BOLOGNA (ITALY) ESXENCE 5TH-8TH APRIL - MILAN (ITALY) BEAUTY WORLD MIDDLE EAST 8TH-10TH MAY - DUBAI
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THE COMPLETE FACE AND BODY ANTI-POLLUTION RANGE WITH ZEOLITE* BY GUUDCURE THE POWER OF NATURE AGAINST POLLUTION
*Zeolite is a volcanic origin mineral, that protects the skin from polluting agents, deeply purifying it from fine dust, preventing polluting particles from accumulating in pores and removing impurities from the skin.
POLLUTION FREE is a registered trademark of GUUDCURE and distributed by HSA Group Cosmetic Division - www.hsacosmetic.com
Discover the complete range on guudcure.com
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LAUNCH
AMO FERRAGAMO a concentrate of contemporary femininity An oriental floral fragrance by the Florence-based fashion house offers an audacious accord of glamour and passion
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The latest fragrance creation by Salvatore Ferragamo is inspired by today’s young women, ready to make their declarations to the world - as in the name of the fragrance, “Amo” the Italian for “I love”-and who are free and ready to take every opportunity that the world offers their way.
The Amo Ferragamo woman is a woman who acts instinctively, dares and seduces, inevitably saying, for all to hear, “Amo Ferragamo”! This fragrance, which audaciously combines glamour with passion, opens with a strong declaration of its personality: the top notes
NEW YORK CELEBRATES AMO FERRAGAMO An exclusive evening was held in Manhattan to celebrate the US launch of Amo Ferragamo. Suki Waterhouse, the face and testimonial of the fragrance, welcomed guests, together with Ms Giovanna Gentile Ferragamo, and the creative director of the Women’s line, Paul Andrew. The venue was a New York apartment, once the private residence of Elizabeth Taylor, with the different rooms revealing the different expressions and inspirations of Amo Ferragamo in an immersive experience made up of installations of flowers, decorative elements and neon lights. During the evening, guests were entertained by a special live concert by the duo of sisters, Aly & AJ, for their first performance back in New York, and by the notes of DJ Pamela Katz.
have an Italian Bitter Accord accompanied by Blackcurrant and Rosemary. The heart brings together light and femininity, represented by Sambac Jasmine, which meets the brightness of Matè Absolute and Rhubarb. The base opens up a sweet and woody persistence. This is sensuality according to Amo Ferragamo, created by the soft encounter between White Tahiti Vanilla Absolute, Ambrox and Sandalwood. Created by Marie Salamagne of Firmenich, Amo Ferragamo encapsulates the woman of today with all her ambition and personality. Amo Ferragamo comes in a natural glass bottle, which at first sight has the curved and simple lines of the ancient tradition of Italian perfumery. Immediately though, it reveals the complexity of a precious relief and a texture made up of small prisms. The bottle is painted with a special translucent paint that reflects the light, as well as Salvatore Ferragamo’s great passion for materials, which from unrefined and natural can be transformed with creativity and skilled craftsmanship into unique and precious object. Amo Ferragamo is an Eau de Parfum Spray in three sizes (30ml, 50ml and 100ml). The campaign for Amo Ferragamo is an all-female achievement. Suki Waterhouse, actress, model and entrepreneur, and icon of the Millennials generation, has lent her face to the fragrance: with her expressiveness and multiple talents, she embodies the passionate and lively spirit of Amo Ferragamo. Another exceptional woman is behind the camera: Ellen von Unwerth, renowned photographer of femininity. The campaign is set in Florence, the centre and heart of the Salvatore Ferragamo Fashion House. It is a hymn to beauty, love, life and self-awareness. In the accompanying film, Suki Waterhouse tells us what she loves, what today’s women love.
Aly and AJ Performance
Myles O’Neill, De lilah Belle Brandon Thomas Le Hamlin, e
Georgia Fowler, Suki Waterhouse, Edo Ferragamo Nadja Bender, Alexandra Richards, Virginia Gardner
ndola Rashad, Virginia Gardner, Co ario Alexandra Dadd
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Organiser - Cosmoprof Asia Ltd
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Sales Office Asia Pacific: UBM Asia Ltd - Hong Kong - ph. +852.2827.6211 - fax +852.3749.7345 - cosmasia-hk@ubm.com Sales Office Europe, Africa, Middle East, The Americas: BolognaFiere S.p.a. - Bologna - Italy - international@bolognafiere.it for info: ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 - international@cosmoprof.it | Marketing and Promotion: BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. - Milan - Italy - ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 - info@cosmoprof.it
Germany’s no. 1 selective make-up brand1 With our customizable system, high-end quality and special & niche products every woman can find her most beautiful self. ARTDECO aspires to be an essential component in every woman’s beauty routine worldwide. Source: IRI Parf.+Dep. Store, Color Cosmetics 2017
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ARTDECO cosmetic GmbH Germany, artdeco.com
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LAUNCH
NOTEBOOK 5 fragrances inspired
by the value of memory
Notebook is the brand new project of Selectiva SPA of the Paglieri Group which is inspired by the value of memory: every moment we have lived can return, bringing emotions through a fragrance and every fragrance can be transformed into a notebook to leaf through to relive happy moments. Notebook is made up of five 100 ml eau de toilettes, each belonging to a specific olfactory family. Vibrant colours characterize the linear and elegant packaging, which go perfectly with the modern soul of the collection. Each colour identifies the accord of reference, emphasized by a transparent cap. Citrus & Tea, a genderless fragrance, is characterized by bright yellow, which conveys its cheerfulness, making it ideal to reawaken the senses.
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A delicate note of green tea illuminated by a top of citrus notes and spices gives it sparkle while a splendid bouquet of jasmine stars in the floral heart. The base, a blend of white musks, amber and exotic woods, exalts the roundness and complexity of the fragrance. Patchouly & Cedar Wood and White Wood & Vetiver are the two male fragrances. Patchouly & Cedar Wood is fresh, modern, uprising and full. The top fresh and sparkling notes of bergamot, cedar and pink grapefruit envelop the senses, a perfect prelude to the very masculine floral and woody heart. White Wood & vetiver is fresh, modern, luminous and with an open horizon. It opens on a citrus accord, releasing from a green and spicy heart the odour of open spaces, the tundra, and fresh air. The base of white woods and vetiver is a contemporary accord which
Fragrances like “notebooks” to hold a sensory journey where each person can recognize themselves
makes it extremely eclectic and a symphony of scents that invite you on an adventure. The female fragrance Cassis & White Pepper is intense and sensual. Its heart is an elegant bouquet of voluptuous and carnal white flowers. The top note releases the freshness of citrus fruit and pink pepper, the outstandingly fruity note of cassis and peach blossom. Its musk and woody base embraces the olfactory empathy of modernity. Lastly, Rose Musk & Vanilla, again for her, is a powdery and floral essence which becomes a real embrace with its scent of goodness. It is an elegant chypre poudré where the talc note has a floral heart which rises to a magnificent rose. The softness of the white musks in the base together with amber and vanilla are the alchemy of a refined and balanced essence.
ULTRA CURLING EFFECT
SUPER LENGTHENING EFFECT
PH © Susi Belianska
AMAZING VOLUME EFFECT
www.astramakeup.com
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CONCEAL & CORRECT
The secrets of the perfect complexion are two: Color Concealer, the palette made of five chromatic concealers that minimizes blemishes and Long Stay Concealer, the long lasting, high coverage concealer that corrects, smoothens and protects.
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www.astramakeup.com
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PH Š Susi Belianska
INTERVIEW
Astra Make-up looks to the future: focus on the Millennials and the export market
Simone Settimi, General Manager speaks Innovation and passion cultivated in 30 years of business to offer consumers a beauty ally, daily luxury affordable by all. 2018 opens with an important company rebranding which starts from the concept of BE YOU, an invitation to all women to feel free to play with their image and personality, exalting their beauty. On the Italian beauty market, Astra Make-up, a solid company showing continuous growth and with a competitive commercial strategy, as the General Manager Simone Settimi explains, is getting ready for an ambitious challenge. EXPORT MAGAZINE: What are the elements that have decreed the success of Astra Make-up? Simone Settimi: “For 30 years we have wanted to offer all women a complete range of unique products created from Italian experience, with which to express who they are. Every woman deserves a choice of exclusive instruments and with an excellent price quality ratio that bring out her beauty and with which she can express her personality. Astra offers products that every day become an invaluable ally at the disposal of women, a daily luxury within the reach of everyone.”
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EM: In 30 years of business how has the brand evolved? SS: “We have never been short of that entrepreneurial courage of taking new paths, even considered non-conformist ones, and that has allowed us to reach important objectives. We have entered women’s daily lives thanks to creativity, innovation and passion and that desire to “be one step ahead of the others.” 2018 is the year that marks an important company rebranding:
new packaging, new channels, a new way of communicating the brand which comes from a concept: BE YOU. An invitation to all women to feel free to play with their image and personality, expressing desires and emotions, exalting their beauty. Alongside the exclusive range of products we have put smart communication, confirming presence on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and YouTube.
We want to involve that group of consumers who are part of the “Millennials”, constantly connected to the Web and passionate about virtual communities where every day they share experiences and tips.” EM: What are the choices of Astra for the future? SS: “So far we have worked to improve and take root in Italy, designing our future.
INTERVIEW
An even more important challenge is awaiting us and which looks at the export market, where we will concentrate much of our energy to confirm the enormous quality of the brand.�
EM: The products of 2018? SS: “We will be promoting those products which for a woman are the must-haves to express her personality. We will be concentrating on all the areas, especially on eyes and lips: we know that, when talking about uniqueness, the instruments to express appeal and originality are the eyes and the smile. We will try to interpret through new products the dynamism of the trends of the moment, with particular attention on formulas and iconic colours that have characterized Astra in the past 30 years. We want the younger consumers to be able to recognize themselves in our vision, also conceived thanks to the rebranding. All this considering the needs of the domestic market, but without losing sight of the international one. Merging experience and passion for the future characterize the new products of 2018, which aspire to become the essential allies of every woman.� C.S.
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LAUNCH
GIORGIA and GIORGIA MIDNIGHT for women by Franck Olivier FRANCK OLIVIER, THE FASHION BRAND WITH AN INIMITABLE STYLE, PRESENTS ITS NEW FRAGRANCES FOR WOMEN, THAT IS A JOURNEY OF THE SENSES
Founded in 1993, the family-owned SODIP boasts 21 years’ experience in LUXURY perfumes. Through its flagship brand “Franck Olivier” it markets its perfume ranges to exclusive outlets in 57 countries worldwide. Over the years, the company has continued to boost its image as a dynamic company with innovative marketing. SODIP has demonstrated its ability to anticipate and adapt to market changes and customer expectations giving it the keys to success for its international development. As a tightly-knit, family company SODIP also owes its success to the loyalty and trust of its partners all over the world.
An invitation for a journey of discovery Consistent quality and innovation, commitment and team spirit, remain keywords in the company’s philosophy. Franck Olivier is a name that has been well known in women’s ready to wear fashion over more than forty years now. Dedicated to women with spirit and who are dynamic and elegant, Franck Olivier designs are also favoured by loyal clients from show business and politics. For the 2 new fragrances for women, inspiration has come from sensuality and elegance. The fragrances are sensual, sophisticated and intense, an explosion of delightful notes and intoxicating scents. Giorgia for women is precious fragrance where the voluptuous pomegranate and ylang ylang infused with a subtle freesia. A scintillating heart reveals a flowery ballet of jasmine, tuberose and wild peach. On base the power of blue cedarwood is sublimated by an heliotrope vanilla duo wrapped in a musks veil.
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Giorgia Midnight is a vibrant fragrance revealed by a sparkling opening made of fresh mandarin and pear. A sensual and floral heart of jasmine and lily of the valley embraces a musky trail of mysterious sandalwood. The praline makes for an energizing and mysterious shot. The bottle is a delight for the eyes, a timeless and beautifully feminine design. It elegantly embodies a new world, a guarantee of tenderness and intense pleasure. Combining passion, audacity and elegance, this design is a true artistic success.
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REPORT
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VALERIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY Having spent over twenty years working with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances, Valerie has extensive knowledge and practical experience of their supply, distribution and retail, pertinent commercial practices and consumer habits on a global and local basis. Her expertise has been highly valued by multi-national organizations, SMEs, start-ups, privately owned companies and financial investors. Certified in Corporate Governance from INSEAD Business School, Valerie has the remarkable ability to successfully set the company’s strategic direction, often across diverse product markets and geographies, and monitor the firm’s risk profile. As a qualified Non-Executive Director who was awarded the prestigious Financial Times Post-Graduate Diploma, Valerie Kaminov is highly trained in corporate governance and is an experienced NED and Director enabling her to have an holistic understanding of boards. She advises both as a consultant and an NED. Valerie’s experience earned her a reputation with major players in the industry who hired her to establish them globally. Her expertise in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth has been highly valued by Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors. She is also dedicated to passing her knowledge along through a range of conferences and events. Valerie has been a guest speaker at the non-profit organization CEW’ Mentoring Services where leading executives offer insights into beauty industry issues and inspiration for professional growth. As the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) Master of Ceremony, Valerie organizes one of its kind conference in Europe, key global gathering for manufacturers, brand owners and distributors to come together and discuss the challenges facing the industry and their businesses by giving the attendees unlimited networking opportunities.
Top Grands Magasins You Need to Be Referenced At The construction of the brand buying experience occurs via different steps. The types of retail channels you choose are essential and will define your brand’s future. Where you choose to locate your store or where to be referenced at, will have a major impact on everything your business does. The difference between selecting the wrong location and the right site could be the difference between failure and success. This is even truer when it comes to cosmetics, skincare and perfumes. Department stores offer a wide range of products in many areas. They are divided into sections organised around specialised products and often have affiliated stores in addition to the main iconic one (the flagship store). They are often major tourist attractions in the cities where they are located. Department stores are still among the most powerful players of retail, one of their unique selling proposition being the ability to offer a diversity of products that is absent from many retail chains. What’s more, not only would having them sell your products means additional sales and exposure, you would also benefit from the experience and know-how of the best buyers in the profession as you develop and grow your business. But bear in mind that before approaching a Department Store, you must do some thorough research: is your product suitable for department stores in the first place? Are similar or comparable product ranges already stocked by them? Should you have a counter, a corner or a shop-within-shop?
At International Luxury Brand Consultancy, we know that selling to these powerful retailers can be a tough battle, especially if you are new to the game and navigating in unknown waters. We work with our clients so that we can provide them with clarity backed up by years of expertise and knowledge. With many years of experience under our belt, we can help you avoid pitfalls that may be encountered along the way. As mentioned above, location is of strategic importance, especially if you wish to position yourself as a niche and/or luxurious beauty brand. As location is a top priority, it goes without saying that Paris, the cradle of luxury and craftsmanship, should be on your to-go list. Paris is still today considered a major global centre for cosmetics, skincare and perfumery but faces competition from other cities: it is no longer the unique capital of beauty of the world but one of its many (New York, London, Milan, Antwerp, Tokyo and increasingly Beijing, Mumbai and Sao Paulo). Luxury and niche brands are fighting to be referenced in all these major areas. From a purely financial point of view, Paris certainly remains the beauty capital of the world because the largest groups of the sector are based in Paris, namely LVMH and L’Oréal. From a media standpoint, Paris remains the frontrunner, essentially because of the existence of world renowned high-end Department Stores that attract hundreds of thousands of tourists and locals every year, including Galeries Lafayette, Printemps and Le Bon Marché.
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1. Galeries Lafayette, pioneer of innovation The remarkable story of this Grand Magasin begins in 1893 when two cousins from a smalltown in the North-East of France decided to open a shop selling novelty items in a small haberdashery. The location (near the Opéra House and the Grands Boulevards) and layout of the store encourage crowds of Parisians and visitors from out of town to visit the store. The early years of the business were motivated by this “bricks and mortar strategy”, which resulted in an impressive acquisition of premises. The flagship Galeries Lafayette store was unveiled in all its glory at its inauguration in October 1912. The cousins dreamed of creating a “luxury bazaar” where the sheer abundance and luxury of the merchandise sold would wow the crowds. Today, Galeries Lafayette has become the second top tourist attraction in Paris, after the Eiffel Tower and has been named one of the must-see greats in the world. From the very beginning, Galeries Lafayette has remained true to its vocation: to serve up innovation.
Under its famous Majorelle-designed dome, Galeries Lafayette’s Beauty Department spans over 2,500 m² and is home to more than 170 brands, ranging from the most affordable right up to the most prestigious and exclusive brands around. The beauty department feature top luxury brands including Chanel, Dior, Clinique, Estée Lauder, Giorgio Armani, Guerlain and prestigious skincare specialists like Crème de la Mer and La Prairie. It also offers make-up and cosmetics from top-name brands such as Shu Uemura, and Bobbi Brown. Not to mention a large selection of fragrances from designers like Atelier Cologne, Annick Goutal, Jo Malone, L’Artisan Parfumeur and Serge Lutens.
2. Printemps Haussman, frontrunner in the beauty world Situated on the Grands Boulevards, Printemps Haussmann is one of the most prestigious Grands Magasins in Paris, selling the biggest names in fashion, beauty and luxury products. Products are displayed on 43.500 m² of floor space. The story began in 1865 when self-made man Jules Jaluzot decided to build his first shop. Originally, this district was considerably far from the centre of Paris, but
the entrepreneur foresaw how its proximity to the Saint Lazare train station and the covered passages of the Grands Boulevards would eventually gather them sufficient clientele.
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REPORT
The Grand Magasin, located in an opulent-looking building, soon established itself as the last department store in the capital to which everybody who was anybody rushed for the latest trends. The store popularity was propelled by the introduction of continuous sales: instead of getting rid of previous product lines, it continued to sell them at reduced prices. Today, Printemps Haussman has the biggest beauty area in the world and is home to more than 200 brands, ranging from “masstige” to exclusive niche brands. Printemps’s Beauty Department features top luxury brands including Estée Lauder, Giorgio Armani and Guerlain, prestigious skincare specialists like La Prairie. It also offers make-up and cosmetics from top-name brands not to mention a large selection of fragrances from designers such as Atelier Cologne.
3. Le Bon Marché, the superlative Grand Magasin Le Bon Marché has revolutionized the art of retail. Considered by many to be the oldest Department Store in the world, Le Bon Marché has become an institution of the Paris shopping scene. Aristide Boucicaut was a milliners’ son who’d gone to Paris to be a fabric merchant, and quickly realised that there was a market for a new kind of establishment that offered buyers more choice. In 1852 together with his wife Marguerite, they transformed a simple little shop into a never-seen before Grand Magasin that offered its clients a wide selection of goods all under one roof. The couple was the first to introduce fixed prices, reduced profit margins, home delivery, exchanges, mail orders, seasonal sales, private concerts, as well as reading rooms for waiting husbands. This unprecedented business model became extremely successful, with entrepreneurs copying the model all over the world. In 1984, LVMH acquired Le Bon Marché and its rebranding made it the most exclusive shop in Paris. Today, the Grand Magasin is very Parisian high-end and has a warm, friendly atmosphere that combines tradition and modernity, where values of authenticity and culture intermingle with the pleasure of buying.
Located on the Rive Gauche the store offers more than luxury goods: it offers clients an art of living, a spirit of elegance and a true experience. Le Bon Marché’s beauty department takes a fresh approach to beauty, unfolding over two levels and offering iconic brands and exclusive novelties. Le Théâtre de la Beauté is laid out on both sides of the central escalator, underneath the stunning art deco glass ceiling, and encircled by balustrade-crowned mezzanines. Placing wellbeing and beauty at the heart of its focus, this beauty department issues a tempting invitation to pamper oneself. The types of retail channels you choose are essential and will define your brand. Where you are sold at will have a major impact on everything your business does and will set you apart from your competition. Approaching an independent retailer to stock your products is one thing, but household names such as Les Galeries Lafayette, Le Bon Marché or Le Printemps can seem out of reach for many small brands. Where do you start? Who do you talk to? And above all, what do you say? If your brand is right for the store and you pitch it well, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t be successful and referenced there.
To set itself apart from its fierce competitors, namely Galeries Lafayette and Le Bon Marché, the Printemps Grand Magasin has recently introduced a new beauty store, the world's largest concept store dedicated to beauty. Bathed in light, it is declined throughout three floors, each a unique destination, and three worlds of discoveries and experiences where clients can indulge in a refreshed selection of brands, products and services.
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For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you successfully sell to luxury Department Stores in France and in other countries, please contact us on info@ilbc.co.uk or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk
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EVENTS
ChinaWhatBeauty China Beauty Expo is exposignaling for the Beauty Market With just three months until the 23rd edition of China Beauty Expo which will run from May 22 to 24, industry insiders are once again looking to the expo as an important “weathervane” for China’s beauty industry. this year, China Beauty Expo is uncovering several important signals about the market.
ConsuMer purChases Continue to Move upMarket According to recent data from China’s national statistical bureau retail sales of consumer goods reached RMB 36.63 billion (Us$5.81 trillion) in 2017, up 10.2% from the prior year. Of this amount, retail sales of cosmetics reached RMB 251.4 billion, an increase of over 13.5% over the previous year. this marked the industry’s first return to growth after four consecutive years of decline. An overall shift to more upmarket consumption has also accompanied the overall growth in the cosmetics market.
Leading Brands and High-end Products. China Beauty Expo 2018 continues to build on its 2017 base of exhibitors.
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This year’s high-end brands include L’OReAL, sHIseIDO, sHAnGHAI JAHWA, JALA, sHAnGHAI CHICMAX, PeCHOIn, OUsIA, UnIAsIA, OsMUn, PROYA, InOHeRB, MARUBI, and WetHeRM. China Beauty 2017 attracted cosmetics companies from 34 companies and regions around the world. By early 2018, more than 4,000 imported brands had already committed to participate in China Beauty 2018. These brands cover categories that include cosmetics, skincare, household cleaning, oral care, make-up tools, facial masks, health
care, maternity and baby care, and paper products. Among these, makeup tools, facial masks, oral care, and beauty care products are the fastest growing categories, increasing 100%, 67%, 60% and 50% respectively.
Brands are targeting younger ConsuMers Consumers born after 1985 to those born after 2000 have become primary targets for cosmetics brands. Demand within younger consumer segments has also driven demand for cosmetics brands at China Beauty Expo 2018. This year’s event will include international and domestic brands, including CARsLAn, KAFeLLOn, LAnsUR, HIFACe, HAnAMInO, sUHU, MIstIne, ReD eARtH, Japanese Make-up Products led by Polystar, JetRO and other regional trade associations.
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look to eMerging Categories to surprise ConsuMers in offline retail
Plus, the leading beauty groups such as L’OReAL(MAYBeLLIne), sHIseIDO, COTY(MAX FACtOR), AnD @COsMe will also showcase their cosmetic products. Many of these brands are using popular tv programs and Internet personalities to promote their brands and shape their merchandising. More brands are also inviting male stars to endorse their products. We also see large skin care brands such as Glamourflage and Pechoin beginning to target the cosmetics market.
To compete with e-commerce channels and aggressive service strategies in traditional retail channels, many specialty retailers are looking to exclusive categories and unique products as path for future growth. For example, niche categories such as make-up tools appeal to physical retailers as they look for ways to attract consumers. The demand for these distinct niche products is partially reflected in the 100% growth rate in imported make-up tool exhibitors at China Beauty Expo 2018.
deeper international Cooperation In addition to introducing new international brands and products, China Beauty expo also creates a unique and important platform for international cooperation. In 2017, China Beauty expo’s Country of Honor, France, brought their Cosmetic valley, major cosmetics groups, MUsee InteRnAtIOnAL De LA PARFUMeRIe De GRAsse and other organizations to connect with industry peers in China. China Beauty Expo 2018 is responding to these trends by creating unique experiences that reflect the shopping habits of younger consumers. this includes its specially built n5 Fashion District, and Cape of Good Hope. China Beauty Expo will also organize the 2018 International Cosmetics Festival, Perfume Carnival, Meiyi Fashion stage and other events to create an interactive and intimate trade platform.
Japan will be China Beauty expo 2018’s Country of Honor. According to sang Ying, secretary-general of China Beauty Expo, Japanese companies will exhibit in the exhibition’s Hall n5. This year’s China Cosmetics Retail summit, China Cosmetics supply Chain summit, and other events will enable Japanese industry experts to connect with their Chinese counterparts and share their latest breakthroughs in products and technology. In addition, China Beauty Expo 2018 will also bring together Asian industry professionals in an effort to share innovations and resources as it promotes cooperation with IFSCC, Asian Cosmetics Association, and shanghai Daily Chemistry trade Association, etc. the expo will feature activities such as Business Meetings Asia (an international matchmaking platform), Beyond Beauty trends (a conference sharing Asian beauty trends), and an Imported Cosmetics Registration Forum. Don’t miss China Beauty Expo 2018 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre from May 22 to 24, 2018.
Consumer Demands are Rapidly Moving Upstream Increased research by brands and tighter brand-supply chain partnerships are bringing upstream suppliers closer to end-user needs. China Beauty Expo has also responded to these market changes by creating more targeted industry categorization and product segmentation. The exhibition segments products into 11 major categories and 38 sub-categories. This includes the identification of more specific product segments such as makeup primer, foundation, concealer, lip cosmetics, eye cosmetics, and eyebrow cosmetics.
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PREVIEW Organised-by Organiser Cosmoprof Asia Ltd
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Sales Office Asia Pacific: UBM India Pvt. Ltd - Mumbai - India - cosmoprof-India@ubm.com ph. +91.22.6172.7510 - fax +91.22.6172.7273 Sales Office Europe, Africa, Middle East, The Americas: BolognaFiere S.p.a. - Bologna - Italy - international@bolognafiere.it for info: ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 - international@cosmoprof.it Marketing and Promotion: BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. - Milan - Italy - ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 - info@cosmoprof.it
2018, A FRESH START WITH NEW MANE SUCCESSES… MANE perfumers illuminate 2018 with brilliant scents which combine MANE’s purest natural ingredients and innovative captives. Veronique Nyberg tells through TRUSSARDI RIFLESSO the story of the life of a man who considers sport a lifestyle. This new philosophy is expressed by head notes of Bergamot, Pink Grapefruit that create a citrusy Italian cocktail. Vibrant and energetic notes of Lavender Flower Pure Jungle Essence™ and hints of Italian Leather, refer to the effortless elegance of the new culture of the masculine TRUSSARDI personality. Cécile Matton created STRONGER WITH YOU, the masculine scent of the new Emporio Armani duo. The fragrance surprises with his originality, like the spicy accord in the top notes - a mix of Cardamom, Pink pepper and Violet leaves. Confident elegance and easy nonchalance are conveyed by the Sage at his aromatic heart. Smoky Vanilla Pure Jungle Essence™ and sugar coated Chestnut accord sensualize the base. Véronique Nyberg signed FIAT 500, the new sophisticated fragrance that embodies the iconic brand for a trendy and urban man. The energy of sparkling Grapefruit combined with vibrant Timur Pepper Jungle Essence™ and Pink Pepper Jungle Essence™ confers a total burst of freshness. The masculine floral heart of Italian Iris Butter and Geranium evolves into a deep and warm base of precious Benzoin and Patchouli notes enlightened by sensual hints of Vanilla Jungle Essence™. Alexis Grugeon & Véronique Nyberg signed L’HOMME by Emanuel Ungaro, a new interpretation of a classic and charismatic man who adores to seduce. An extreme elegance and character appear from the beginning, thanks to vibrant Black Pepper Pure Jungle Essence™ associated with a velvety Peach accord. In the heart, aromatic tones of Lavender Flowers Pure Jungle Essence™ with Orris bring style and charisma, while rich woody and leathery notes in the drydown confer the memorable seal of sensuality. Mathilde Bijaoui signed TO BE TATTOOART, the new Police fragrance. A young and trendy scent for a man who likes the risk... a free spirit. The crispy Verbena opens this fragrance accompanied by the mysterious elegance of the Cardamom that evolves in an intriguing base of Amberwoods and Tonka Beans.
Even more glamour and innovation to come… 47
BRINGING TRENDS TO LIFE.
THE AWARD WINNING B2B EVENT PROVIDES: • THE PLACE WHERE ‘IN THE KNOW’ DISTRIBUTORS FIND RESOURCES • • THE WORLD OF BEAUTY UNDER ONE ROOF 45 COUNTRIES REPRESENTED • • LEADING CONFERENCES WITH CSUITE EXECS •
www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com Organizer - North American Beauty Events LLC.: Sales Office US, Canada, Mexico: PBA - Scottsdale, AZ - USA - ph. +1.480.281.0424 - fax +1.480.905.0708 - info@cosmoprofnorthamerica.com Sales Office Europe, Africa, Middle East, Asia and South America: BolognaFiere spa - Bologna - Italy - international@bolognafiere.it - for info: ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 international@cosmoprof.it | Marketing and Promotion: BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. - Milan - Italy - ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 - info@cosmoprof.it
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The Leading Trend Source For The Beauty & Packaging Industries
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report
Beautystreams Meet Athluxury - Athleisure’s heir to the throne Michele Superchi, Italian Marketing Manager of Beautystreams will give us a perspective on how Athleisure, one of the most important trends of this decade, will evolve in the upcoming years
In the ever changing cosmetics industry, products, companies and even trends evolve every season. The analysis and development of trends like these are the specialty of Beautystreams, the leading company in the trend forecasting industry for cosmetics and beauty. Every day, the most important brands worldwide follow Beautystreams’ forecasts to know in advance how the industry will develop and how to create the products of the future: a product that will fit perfectly in the needs and expectation of the consumers. The winning combination of casual, comfortable clothing and high performance results, which help consumers maintain physical and mental wellbeing during their active lives is key to the athleisure lifestyle trend that continues to be popular across the fashion and cosmetics industries. Indie beauty brands like Kiehl’s are driving the sports-inspired macro trend.
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The apothecary-inspired label’s go-getting branding is a perfect example of this. Kiehl’s sells the athleisure dream with “Pure Vitality Skin Renewing Cream”, a product packed with superfoods to moisturize and aid repair. Similarly, vegan brand Soveral’s glow-enhancing Super Hero Potion, which comes complete with three imbued facial masks, corners the market for empowering beauty fixes.
Athleisure + Luxury = Athluxury Across the beauty industry, “this feel good = look fabulous” phenomenon is evolving towards a more premium segment with a demand for formulas that are not only invigorating, waterresistant or gym-proof, but deliver luxurious, transformative textures and aromas, savvy cosmeceutical claims or ritual-inspired, multifunctional applications that prolong the benefits of a workout session and enable recovery.
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Upgrading to Athluxury is the Next Big Beauty Statement In a move to differentiate themselves from the mass market that is full of Indie products claiming to charge up the mind and body, high-end brands are focusing on upscale, high performance beauty solutions with long-term benefits that work before, during and after working out. Active luxury consumer-pleasing trends include all-in-one wonder products that boost cell renewal, offer protection from environmental factors along with convenient fast-absorbing, pore-refining and skin tone-perfecting claims.
Cargo Cosmetics’ “Swimmables” highly-pigmented, pool-friendly make-up line; Tan Express sheets by St Tropez or breathable nail polish by Orly.
cushion-perfumes by Demeter, top Korean brand Erborian’s Copper Glow powder compact; Supergoop!’s gym bag-friendly
How Can Brands Tap Into the Athluxury Trend? Barre to Bar Beauty Set or its Invincible Setting Powder SPF45; Prime examples of existing products that already embraced this macro-trend are: Chanel’s fortifying, replenishing 24-hour Hydra Beauty Micro Crème - the brainchild of the brand’s project with micro-droplet tech expert Capsum;
Frezyderm’s “second skin” Velvet Technology SPF50 Sun Screen;
SkinCeuticals’ Cosmeceutical Cleansers, innovative foundations like Guerlain’s lightweight Lingerie de Peau cushion or Giorgio Armani’s “long wear, high cover” Power Fabric liquid base;
• Focus R&D on potent active ingredients which when combined form sophisticated all-in-one formulations with long wear, transformative and thermo-reactive considerations. • Invest in products that ensure peace of mind such as sweat-proof make-up essentials, troubleshooting kits, beauty heroes, instant fixes or indulgent post-workout aftercare. • Aim for a sensorial burst of freshness; irresistible velvety, suave finishes and textures. • Re-styling packaging in a more futuristic way, paying particular attention to functionality and desirability in the form of quality finishes, incorporating ultra-luxe materials and iconic design. Take inspiration from Chanel’s sleek, understated oval La Crème main for on-the-go application. • Locations! Locations! Locations! Creating an optically alluring retail experience with digitally-enhanced and interactive spaces that appeal to the active luxury consumer who is constantly on the move, either exercising or globetrotting in search of new wellness experiences. Broadening your bricks and mortar retail network to include partnerships with top spas and popular fitness centres is another channel to explore in order to reach out to active luxury consumers.
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Optimizing the time for the professional attendees at the reference event for the world of cosmetics is the aim of this 51st edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna which this year opens the doors for professionals in the retail, perfumery and cosmetics sectors, green and natural and the national pavilions of COSMO | PERFUMERY & COSMETICS, held in conjunction with Cosmopack from Thursday 15 March to Sunday 18 March. COSMO | HAIR & NAIL & BEAUTY SALON with the national pavilions of China and Taiwan keep the usual opening dates from Friday 16 to Monday 19 March.
COSMOPROF BOLOGNA 2018 meeting the specific needs of all players in the beauty industry
The event is hosting 2,800 exhibitors from 70 countries, +3% compared to 2017 and overall, the event is predicted to grow by 7.5%. All the sectors of the event are growing: Cosmopack records +6% with 464 exhibitors from 31 countries; the sector dedicated to Perfumery and cosmetics has grown by 5%. There are 27 National Collective groups from 24 countries, From 15 to 18 March the national pavilions of Australia, Belgium, Brazil, Bulgaria, California, France, Germany, Greece, Holland, Hungary, Indonesia, Israel, Italy, Japan, Korea, Latvia, Poland, Spain, Turkey, UK, USA and, for the first time Sweden, are exhibiting.
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From 16 to 19 March, in conjunction with Cosmo | Hair & Nail & Beauty Salon dedicated to the professional world, the China and Taiwan pavilions are open to the public. The number of visitors also looks to increase, with online sales having increased by 25% compared to last year with +34% of international sales. Cosmo | Perfumery & Cosmetics Cosmo | Perfumery & Cosmetics is an ideal stage for masstige perfumery and the Extraordinary Gallery hosts prestige perfumery companies with high quality products, an expression of the best research and development in the sector.
Subjects of the talks scheduled during the event include “Evolution of Perfumery”, “How To: Shopping in beauty – The perfume experience 4.0: perfumery and luxury between innovation and tradition. Cosmo | Perfumery & Cosmetics in Hall 19, collects all the main trends for retail, as well as hosting the International Buyer Lounge. Part of this sector is Cosmoprime, for new prestige and masstige perfumery trends for the retail channel, with selected entrance. Tones of Beauty is the initiative that draws attention to multicultural beauty, with skin and hair products for non-Caucasian consumers.
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Cosmoprime is also hosting new areas on the world of green and natural cosmetics: The Green Selection (in the Extraordinary Gallery) with collections characterized by ingredients of natural origin of the highest quality and The Green Prime, featuring selected brands specialized in masstige and prestige perfumery and skincare with a strong eco-friendly vocation. The Green area is Hall 21N is dedicated to mass market brands, with over 130 exhibitors showing a preview of their new products. Cosmo | Hair & Nail & Beauty Salon The spotlight here is on the world of professional aesthetics, hairstyling and nails, with the main companies of finished products for the world of hair, nails and beauty salons, exhibitors of equipment for beauty centres and spas, specialists in accessories and furnishing, together with China and Taiwan’s country pavilions. Hair shows with the most prestigious teams and cutting-edge performance enliven the event. On Hair Collection, on 18 and 19 March, host the teams for Class Hair Academy Schwarzkopf, Hair Company, BH Salon and Wella. Hair Ring is the stage of young hair stylists with a new claim this year: Proud to support young talents. Halls 37 and 38 hold the most innovative machines and products to increase beauty salons’ business and offer customers a higher quality service. Focus on the nail world continues with training sessions for nail technicians, Nail Education Bologna on 19 March, focuses on the most fashionable nail art techniques.
Cosmopack 2018 The event dedicated to the entire beauty supply chain continues to grow: +6% in terms of exhibition, 464 companies already confirmed and a waiting list that is constantly getting longer. This year, 55% of exhibitors are from abroad, with attendance by the most important players in the industry, including Oxygen (USA), Maesa (Frace), Dubai personal Care – Unilever and Marchesini. This year Cosmopack Awards 2018 are to be presented, the natural evolution of The Wall award by Cosmopack, by a jury of prestigious international experts, for the most interesting solutions for research, formulation, technological development and digital innovation. Hall 19 of Cosmoprime hosts the Cosmopack Factory, an interesting initiative for buyers, retailers, company managers and R&D managers, and focuses for the first time on retail needs. Education in Bologna International partners and outstanding speakers focus on the most up-to-date topics for the beauty industry. These are opportunities for professional updating thanks to the high quality educational calendar, scheduled according to the new “tailor-made” format with specific proposals for each sector and for the different professional categories. The Spa Symposium is being held for the second year, with international experts, trendsetters and the most influential trade magazines presenting topics of interest to professionals in the spa and wellness centres and for specialized companies. The live demonstrations of Cosmoprof On Stage are dedicated to the world of professional aesthetics and nails, on Sunday 18 and Monday 19 March in collaboration with Esthetiworld by Cosmoprof.
A new advertising campaign Cult photographer Oliviero Toscani has created the image for this year’s advertising campaign: two female faces of different ethnicities, with abstract touches of colour on lips, eyes and hair express the concept of beauty without borders, the expression of a modern, multi-cultural society.
“Haute gamme” perfumery in Bologna This year sees a brand-new installation at the Service Centre of the fair district where the finalist fragrances of the 2018 Prize Accademia del Profumo for the best perfume of the year will be shown, both feminine and masculine, where visitors can vote for their favourite fragrance among those presented by Angelini beauty, Bulgari Italy, Chanel, Collistar, Coty Italy, L’Oréal Italia Luxe, LVMH Italy, Puig Italia, Salvatore Ferragamo Parfums and Shiseido Group Italy. This collaboration between Cosmoprof and the Accademia del Profumo confirms the importance of selective perfumery and the constant growth of the fragrance market (+2.5%).
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goals ANCOROTTIand theambitious acquisition of COSMETICS the ex-Olivetti factory that we can imagine. For us, to bring the Olivetti factory back to life is very important: without comparing myself to the great Adriano Olivetti, I will limit myself to saying that, by purchasing the factory, we want to continue in that “Olivettian” line. Creating jobs, and this is already in our corporate welfare, and “sewing up” an urbanistic wound in a part of Crema, Santa Maria, which in recent years has represented a danger both for possible collapses and for an unsafe environment which was beginning to be created, is a motive of pride for us.
INTERVIEW WITH RENATO ANCOROTTI EXPORT MAGAZINE: One of the key words to describe Ancorotti Cosmetics is ‘growth’. Do you agree? RENATO ANCOROTTI: This word is confirmed by the numbers; last year we closed with a turnover of 90 million, with a growth of 18 million compared to the 72 of the previous year. This year our budget is of 110 million and, as we already have a portfolio of 54 million of orders in March, this makes us hope that the fixed target is reached. All this is thanks to exports, which for our company represent 90% of the total turnover and which in any case are the main driver for all outsourcing companies in our sector which, together, produce almost 70% of the global turnover of cosmetics, as shown by the data
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of Cosmetica Italia, our trade association. This is very good news for the Italian balance of payments. EM: In a previous interview you told us that you had purchased the former Olivetti factory in Crema. RA: Yes, this is a significant step for our company, if you think that it is the largest industrial building in Crema, built by the architect Zanuso when Renzo Piano, a young and promising architect, was his assistant and that it employed, when it was in full activity, 2500 people. The first electric typewriter came out of that factory. When, in the 1990s, the factory, the heart of the city, was closed, it was a great disappointment for the people, for many reasons
EM: What has this expansion meant for Ancorotti Cosmetics? RA: A turning-point and a rationalisation of our space. Of the 30,000 square metres of the ex Olivetti factory, we have renovated 12,000, and the remaining 18,000 will be ready by December 2018. Here we have grouped together all the logistics which before were distributed in some of our units, and gradually we will add other departments, such as stocking the raw materials and packaging. When the works have been completed, as well as the ex Olivetti, we will use eight of the 13 industrial units. Overlooking 5 smaller ones, beyond these technical details, the positive meaning has to be read in this succession: the birth of Olivetti, the abandonment of Olivetti and the recovery: we have not built
one square metre more and we have made the whole area safe. Translated into employment terms, in a year we have taken on 100 people with open-ended contracts, reaching a total of 350 employee. We are going back again to the word ‘growth’ alongside our name. EM: Which are the areas that let you grow? RA: Basically three. In the first place new product categories as far as our company is concerned: as well as the mascara we started from, back-injection has been added which has now taken important steps, working with 27 machines on three shifts; after the compacts the lipsticks have been added. The second area of growth, external, concerns the new clients, including some multinational corporations; this benefit will be seen between 2018 and 2019; the third area involves the share of wallet of our existing clients, i.e. what the client can give us in addition and what we already supply, analysing their range of products which it produces elsewhere in outsourcing, or at its own factory in the case of some important groups. EM: Geographically, which areas are showing growth? RA: The USA, France, where we have conquered new prestigious clients, in general the whole of Europe including our historical markets such as Germany and England.
INTERVIEW
As always we are focusing on the Russian market, important now more than ever and where we have been present for years. We are also looking at markets in the Middle East, including Iran and, although we are not yet present on Asian markets, we are studying some ad hoc strategies to be able to approach them in the near future. EM: Is the turnover today of mascara still important? RA: Definitely. We produce 1500 tons of mascara, equivalent to more than one hundred million pieces, a huge figure that we did not think we would exceed and yet we are continuing to grow, thanks to new clients especially in countries such as the US and France where mascara is an
important product with great chances of success. To date, mascara represents 60% of our cosmetic activity. I would like to say a word about the Italian market because if it is true that it occupies 10% of our turnover, it has a forecast of growth proportional to that of the rest of the world: we are working with all the main brands and it is a market of reference. The Olivetti factory, now Ancorotti Cosmetics new building in Crema
EM: How important is it to be constructive on the market? RA: It is fundamental in absolute terms. The perception that our clientele has of Ancorotti Cosmetics is of a proactive and creative company, this is the driver of our growth, which takes place through the area mentioned above.
The current trend means that the design times are increasingly shorter; clients want and have to be on the market quickly. This is why we are equipped internally to create products to be customized, already in possession of the necessary papers. Both large groups and clients of a smaller dimension ask us for a product to be put quickly on to the market; on our side, we have to respond quickly, guaranteeing the quality, the service, the right quality/price ratio as always. When it is the client that suggests a new idea, which maybe is triggered off by something we have presented to them, the first thing to so is a check on the feasibility, so that the idea can be translated into an article. One of our strong points is being able to combine creativity with flexibility.
EM: Can flexibility also exist in a company with strong growth? RA: This is a topic we face every day, it is the market that asks for it and our answer also comes from our new factory; its renovation entailed for us a great evolution, from a new organizational system. The company is growing, many processes are standardized and good organization can allow gaining time on the feasibility of various projects, and on the flexibility towards the needs of the clients. Organizing does not mean bureaucratizing, on the contrary creating a space for communication inside. I believe I am an open person, that I have no changed since the start of my activity and for this reason I think that
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I am open to collaborators, promote dialogue and everything that derives from it is a benefit for all of us, is important. The passion that has always guided me is fully shared by every single person belonging to the company. EM: How does the ex Olivetti, now Ancorotti Cosmetics, factory project you further into the future? RA: The new factory, for which our clients have congratulated us, is also a business card for all those clients used to large contracts, to honour which the greatest guarantees have to be provided. I think that being able to renovate in a year - from scratch, a factory if these dimensions is already in itself evidence
PROPOSALS THAT ARE ALWAYS AVANT-GARDE Erika Romeo, Sales Director Ancorotti Cosmetics answers EM: After years in marketing, here you are, directing sales… ER: The passage from marketing to sales is certainly not traumatic, indeed, I could say for me that it is almost an advantage, as the familiarity with the products and with the clients. EM: What will you be presenting that is particular in the first half of the year? ER: We will be presenting the trends that we will be seeing in 2019-2020, products that our clients do not want yet, but we try to stimulate their desire for them! EM: There are two main trends, one is called ‘enhance your beauty’, try to be beautiful as you are, we offer you products to enhance your beauty.
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of our determination and ability to be a structure able to meet every type of need.
Today a company can grow and be projected into the future only by counting on an important
Renato Ancorotti, President, and Chicca Ancorotti,
On the other hand, there are others who do not make do with that what they look like, they want a constructed, almost fake beauty, where the facial features are redesigned. This is make-up with a spectacular change from ‘before’ to ‘after’. ER: Great attention is paid to the sensory nature of products: the right balance between sight, smell and touch, the attention of the consumer is focused not only on the final effect, but also on the “skin feel”. It is all accompanied by great attention to the damage caused by external aggression, first of all atmospheric pollution. We have to add to this attentive search for functional materials that can meet specific needs. The concept of “free form” is also very important: for some time now the phenomenon that concerns multiple food categories
critical mass, where excellence is the very consequence of the way of operating.
C.S.
CEO
(from gluten-free pasta to lactose-free cheese, from snacks without palm oil to biscuits without butter) has infected the sector of cosmetics. So, we can find mascaras, eyeshadows and foundations without countless ingredients. On this topic I can add that by the end of the year, our company will also be certified ‘halal’, to meet increasingly growing requirements of the various foreign markets. EM: How important is it, for how the market is today, to give clients all-round support ? ER: The motto of our company is: ‘total solution provider’; this means that we try to provide a total solution which contemplates, as well as our manufacturing skills, the suggestion on the concepts and essential strategies for the
various targets of consumers, according to the various channels of distribution. Of course, we try to create a different desire for each brand. EM: What does ‘beauty’ mean today? ER: For many consumers, beauty today is everything that can be Instagrammed, something that is worth being posted on Instagram, an instantaneous beauty without filters. Thanks to the innovation and technology in the product. Thinking of the filters that can be used through cell phones, in this case make-up replaces these and can create filters on our skin by itself. This concept married both lines ‘enhance your beauty’ and ‘fake’. Another type of beauty is ‘high definition’, understood not only when posted on a social platform, but also in reality. C.S.
The largest international trade fair for beauty products, hair, fragrances and wellbeing in the Middle East
8 – 10 May, 2018 Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre, UAE
Pre-register online today at www.beautyworldME.com/AD6 Tel: +971 4 389 45 00 beautyworld@uae.messefrankfurt.com www.beautyworldME.com
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INTERVIEW
ICR
a family business looking resolutely to the future An excellent example of quality production open to innovation and expansion
Interview with Roberto Martone ICR CEO EXPORT MAGAZINE: A lot of water has flowed under the bridge since you founded ICR. What is the dimension of the company today? ROBERTO MARTONE: ICR has now confirmed its mission as a manufacturing and logistics company. The family is present in the company, represented by my daughters Giorgia and Ambra, and this has been a stimulus to promote an expansion which for some time we had been hoping for, of 10,000 square metres. The factory and the warehouses now occupy 52,000 square metres under cover in our Lodi area, compared to the previous 42,000. EM: What was the need that triggered off this expansion? RM: First of all, the necessity to rationalize the manufacturing spaces, separating the alcoholic part from the non-alcoholic one;
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this allowed us on the one hand to count on 12 continuous lines of alcoholic production, and on the other, to prepare other automatic lines of amenities for hotels, as well as the filling materials of the non-alcoholic lines, i.e. the shower gels, the shampoos, the body lotions and so on. This way we have a complete supply chain. Today the factory is completely new, as the pre-existing art has been completely renovated, with a modernization of the machinery and the completion of the lines, as I mentioned earlier. With this globally important investment, the company is moving today with a production of around 90 million pieces a year in the segment of selective perfumery. This puts us in the first place in the production of selective alcoholic perfumery in Italy, and amongst the top five companies at international level, excluding the direct factories of the companies owning the brands.
EM: It is really appropriate to speak of Italian excellence! RM: Certainly, since 1975, when I founded ICR, I have always had in mind the Italian flag, without overlooking the bands of perfumery that in the past we had under licence with another of our companies, such as Balestra, Trussardi, Versace, Roberto Cavalli and so on. Many years ago we embraced the strategy of taking the Italian designer names into perfumery and the path we took has proven us right. Today, with ICR, which is dealing exclusively with production and logistics, we have important and long-lasting contracts with a worldwide exclusive with brands such as Bulgari, Ferragamo, the Angelini Group, of which, more than outsourcers, we consider ourselves industrial partners. EM: Is the concept of the relationship with the clientele changing? RM: We confirm the initial strategy: our clients believe in the possibility of working with ICR all-round. The services we supply are complete and receiving sporadic orders for certain quantities of product is not part of our mindset. Not all the clients use our logistics service - often because producing only the alcoholic part with us and having many other references,
they already have a logistics centre which assembles everything - however those who use our integrated logistics have the benefit of many advantages. Saving time, which also means money. The goods from production are in the warehouse within an hour, ready to be shipped. No costs or times of transport to other locations; no checks as the production is under our responsibility. The relationship with the client is simplified, as we are integrated. EM: Do any clients ask you to look after the creation of the fragrance? RM: With the creation of LAB ICR, an idea that comes from Giorgia and which she is carrying on with Ambra, we have the chance to configure even a product in real time with the client. We provide assistance in curating the marketing project, from the fragrance to the bottle to the decoration and the packaging. It is a service for new clients but also for our existing clientele. Even important brands can receive assistance to create special lines, or flankers; our facility is evaluated with interest, and in a climate of full collaboration. EM: Is there a minimum limit to respect regarding the quantities of product to manufacture? RM: With the rationalization of the plants, we have a part which is highly automated; in one line we have included a robot and 8 other robots are due to arrive shortly, to be inserted in the various lines.
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This discourse of the collaborative robot with people is a projection of the famous industry 4.0, which we have been following for some time. On the other hand, due to the necessities of manufacturing for smaller dimensions, but not under a certain level, we have created a production department called ‘atelier’ which has a more artisanal character and which, compared to the industrial production with a daily lot of 10,000 pieces per shift, can produce 2,000 pieces per day. EM: Can we mention the feather in the cap of the family, the Hotel Magna Pars with its olfactory theme? RM: Of course, the creation of the hotel, in Milan, on the spot where our first factory stood, is a very pleasant passage also from the personal point of view, of our family, We worked on this project as though it were our own home, as it represents a link with our history. Another 17 rooms will be added to the existing thirty-nine rooms within two years. Milan, like all large cities, is decentralizing and the area where the hotel is, is getting busier and busier. Fashion companies and designers choose to work in an area which increasingly expresses great Italianness.
Interview with AMBRA MARTONE EXPORT MAGAZINE: After having visited the factory, one of the many aspects that we particularly appreciated is the process of rationalization and harmonization underlying the project of expansion and renovation. Can you tell us in general what you were aiming at? AMBRA MARTONE: We are delighted that the process of integration between the existing part and the new part can be clearly seen. If the construction of the new unit entailed great investment, including the creation of the new installations, the purchase of more machinery and the recruitment of new personnel to meet an increased workload, the redefinition of the existing space, with the modernization of its layout and the connection of the work supply chain, was equally as challenging. We must not forget that the production of the alcoholic part, fundamental for is, takes place in the part of the factory that already existed. The basic effort was - for all of us, from the first to the last - to think in a more organic way, with an all-round vision of the work. With a rational ergonomic method. Today you can no longer think by single department, but globally.
Giorgia, Roberto and Ambra Martone
The improvements that we have planned are aimed at anticipating the issues. We have put on line a series of preventive checks which send us messages in every phase of production, without waiting for the final quality control. This way, rejects are reduced to a minimum, to the advantage of the clientele and the environment. EM: How important is the work environment? AM: Fundamental. We have made major investments in this field, from the ventilation installations to the lighting and the different types of seats depending on the manual operations to be carried out. We have introduced automatic pallets, i.e. electric trans pallets to relieve the workers of the most tiring and repetitive activities. On all fronts, from the layout to the organization of work, we have tried to use the best instruments on the market. For example, for one year in
collaboration with the faculties of Biology and Science of Turin University, we have carried out ergonomic studies to identify, for each work station on the production lines, the correct posture of the operator am the suitable frequency concerning the rotation of personnel. EM: Clients are more and more demanding: your answer? AM: Our strong point has always been to anticipate the needs of our clients; before they have time to make requests, we are in there with suggestions. To give you an example, the new layout of the factory surprised our existing clients first of all; they were not expecting such a change and they warmly congratulated us. The expansion of the company will obviously allow us to meet a greater amount of production. We are equipped to double our current volumes. Space and determination are not what is lacking in ICR.
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MASCARA PLUS a total process industry ORIETTA RICCABONI SALES & MARKETING DIRECTOR EXPORT MAGAZINE: As the person in charge of the Italian and international market, in which areas are your objectives concentrated? ORIETTA RICCABONI: The first area is exquisitely business, and concerns our presence on the market, turnover and clients. The second area refers to the structuring of the team. 2017 recorded a significant development of business, with a growth of +64% with respect to the previous year, going from euro 11.482 million of 2016 to 18.782 million. This growth at numerical level has taken place thanks to a greater penetration of the existing markets, continuously opening up to new clients and constantly watching over the current ones. In 2017 we consolidated our presence in the USA (which represents 75% of our turnover) and we strengthened the European market. We have gained 34 new clients. For 2018 the main focus will again be Europe and the Middle East, progressively focusing on a coverage of the international markets. Asia will be a project for next year, as will Latin America. It is our intention to grow rationally and solidly, learning from what we are doing and consolidating the active clients who are never neglected, starting from the United States, which is our hard core. How? By creating loyalty plans where the existing clients walk hand in hand with the new client.
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At the level of distribution channels, we are analysing other market niches in retail. The expansion of our business outside the mascara area is fundamental. Mascara Plus Cosmetics, which for 15 years has been synonymous with mascara, has also been something else for a couple of years, especially emulsions and anhydrides in the face and lip area. These product categories, which in 2016 represented only 1% of our turnover, already represented 6% at the end of 2017. Our objective is to continue expanding our portfolio of products and so in a differentiation and expansion of offer for our clients. We are still moving and I would say with satisfaction, in the area of technical products. Our efforts are directed to shifting our innovative capacity on mascara, not only at the level of formula, but also of application methods, for example, to the lip area. We are very proud of one of our very great strong points and points of differentiation: that of having covered the creation of a product not only from the formula point of view (and supplying a full service through the purchase of the packaging) but having included in our competence and know-how the most delicate part of mascara, that is, the applicator, the brush. By dealing with the part of the brush ourselves (from the study to the development and up to in-house production) we offer our clients an added value: a mascara is not simply the packaging of a formula with a brush, its real success comes from the perfect synergy between the two.
Only those who control both elements 100% and are able to find the perfect combination can offer a product with very high performances and a high rate of innovation. For this reason we have invested a great deal in the development of competences in this area: starting from N formulas and N brushes, the compositions that can be obtained are infinite, the perfect equilibrium between the two guarantees the success of the product and at the same time allows offering each client an exclusive product, personalized and each time different from what is already on the market. We are building up interesting partnerships with packaging suppliers because the production of a brush which works goes hand in hand with the association with a specific packaging. Only by controlling the whole supply chain, we can guarantee that the product the client will receive is the result of development created ad hoc, with a perfect functionality and the performances of which are up to the expectations. The quality present in a product starts from the marketing department which carries out the study for a perfect start, going on to the industrialization which allows working with the supplier, all in close collaboration with the R & D. EM: Let’s talk about the internal commercial structure. OR: We have created a commercial team that is as close-knit as possible in all its parts, Our team is made up of our sales managers, our real leading lights, whose main activity is that of following
existing clients, acquiring new accounts and identifying the market trends. In perfect team work, as in a consolidated relay team, the baton is then passed on to our project managers who, having received the brief, become the focus for the customers, with the product development revolving around them, through an activity of external and internal coordination. The customer service does the backup for the project and sales part, dealing with the very important area of service and after-sales. The three units work jointly, with the support of marketing. The marketing function is multiple: it deals with developing new products and the innovative projects for the future years. They work in synergy with our creative development agency based in India, which works on design and innovation. They support us in the analysis of trends and in the development of new ideas for the market, new wands, concepts that are often ‘blue sky’, not yet industrialized that allow us to offer clients exclusive ideas for new product developments
INTERVIEW
that we might see on the market in 3/5 years’ time. Another of our objectives for this year is to further develop the image of the company, through a restyling of our website, a greater presence on selected social media and events organized ad hoc. EM: Can you tell us about Innovation Week? OR: This is an internal event attended by all the commercial team, our Indian partner, our R&D, through specific meetings, and with a brainstorming session around the activities carried out the previous year, analysing the trend of the innovative products and laying the foundations for the objectives to be developed in the following years. The ready-to-go projects, to be put on the market in the next six months, alternate with those ‘under development’ scheduled during the year, to end with the ‘blue sky’ ones I mentioned earlier. EM: Is attending the main trade fairs important? OR: For us, our presence at a fair is an opportunity to make ourselves increasingly known and to acquire new clients. Last year, we took part in six fairs, in 2018 it will be nine. In addition, in order to create greater visibility at international level of the company, our marketing team is developing targeted communication activities addressed specifically to clusters of potential new customers.
ALBERTO CARMINATI, HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGER EXPORT MAGAZINE: Since when has the function of HR existed in Mascara Plus and what is it based on? ALBERTO CARMINATI: The function came from an intuition of our CEO, David Chant; I have been with the company for two years and there are two of us who work in HR, with a third person soon to join us. The mission is to be at the service of the company, which means, considering our very rapid growth, bringing in the right resources to support the business. To give you some numbers, last year, 57 new people joined the company; with a turnover rate aligned with our segment and which for us means 15 people, the total was 72: a considerable number. Aware that alone we could not have attracted the best resources available, we have created a network of external partners who help us according to the type of profile we are looking for; we work with headhunting companies for managerial roles and with greater responsibility while for other profiles we draw on social networks, mainly LinkedIn. Our network of partners is completed by two supply agencies which we mainly use for junior figures in the area of operations.
Our strategy is to use the channel which each time we believe is the most suitable. In addition, in order to become increasingly visible, we are building up a social image of the company; from the 800 followers of last year, we have now more than 5000: how? By giving information on who we are, our values and publicizing the most interesting searches we have under way. EM: How is the strategic line of HR established? AC: I discuss the strategic line with David Chant, who fully agrees with my process-oriented approach typical of a company of larger dimensions; each time we implement everything that is functional for our growth. This year we have introduced the concept of ‘performance appraisals’: our managers met with their resources to give and receive feedback on the trend of their performances during the year, to then discuss the priorities to give themselves for 2018. We have also worked on the ‘compensation’ area, changing the company employment contract in order to do so, this way introducing two pilasters into the welfare area, concerning health care and complementary social security. EM: How is the age factor considered by HR? AC: There are some roles that require from 10 to 15 years of
experience; having said this, our targets are people who are very enthusiastic to give what they know to the company but above all with a great desire to learn; this type of energy prevalently belongs to younger people, the result is that a reasoning about age is more a consequence than a choice. Mascara Plus is heterogeneous, both in age and nationality. We have counted up to 18 different ones. EM: Mascara Plus has branches abroad. How do your correspondents interface with the parent company? AC: It is important that these people, essentially our Sales Area Managers in the various geographical areas, feel part of the company. This sense of belonging is built up during the collective participation in trade fairs, where the Sales Managers get to know in person the support personnel they usually interface with only by phone or Skype, and at an event which is held annually at our head office, wanted by our Commercial Director Orietta Riccaboni. I am talking about ‘Innovation Week’, where information and interesting experiences are exchanged about the markets and clients. Our external collaborators are 100% an integral part of the Mascara Plus team. A further help comes, as well as from the current technologies which allow us to be constantly online, from an induction course that we have created, when it is possible to take part in the procedures and activities of all the sectors.
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EVENTS
MakeUp in... Tracking market changes and trends as a winning strategy
In a few weeks will open one after the other, MakeUp in Shanghai (11th and 12th of April) and MakeUp in Seoul (25th and 26th of April). An expansion strategy that has already proven its value since the main players in the subcontracting make-up industry (from packaging and formulation to full service and accessories), continue to favour a world-class event, should it be in Paris, New York, Los Angeles or Sao Paulo.
The opportunity to launch the first edition of MakeUp in Shanghai was even more interesting given the fact that Beauteam (MakeUp in... trade fairs’ organizer) now belongs to the InfoPro Digital Group, the organizer of the Luxe Pack shows. This event, with a ten-year proven track record in Shanghai, gives even more assets to this first MakeUp in Shanghai.
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Whilst Seoul keeps on being one of the most important spots in Asia when it comes to Fashion and Beauty, China on its side continues developing its domestic market for cosmetics and has been willing to go international. The MakeUp in... concept has relied on its capacity to respond to the market evolutions and even more, to be able to anticipate them. Its unique positioning - the exclusive gathering of suppliers of makeup packaging, applicators and formulas and full service companies- attracts an overwhelming majority (65%) of visitors coming from brands’ marketing and product development teams. This visitor base, makes the singularity and value of exhibiting at the «MakeUp in» shows. The next MakeUp in Paris (21st and 22nd of June) and NewYork
(12th and 13th of September), which will celebrate respectively their 9th and 8th anniversary, are showing that the concept not only evolves in emerging markets but keeps on being the unmissable events for well established markets, fostering dynamism and development of their key players, and their challengers.
Carrousel du Louvre
21 &22 Juin/June 2 0 1 8 9h - 17h / 9am - 5pm
makeup-in.com
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INTERVIEW
RED OF VIEW
beauty is a state of the art
INTERVIEW WITH CATERINA BONDIOLI, CEO
EXPORT MAGAZINE: Red of View has recently celebrated its twelfth birthday. How has the company evolved in the last few years and on what have you concentrated? CATERINA BONDIOLI: We are keeping our focus on an increasingly strong personality, keeping our main objective which is growth based on R & D, continuously nourishing the product matrix. We offer this product in the world as in the past few years our efforts have been concentrated on expanding our horizons. EM: Does this mean that Red of View, founded in Italy and with a deeply Italian soul, now has an increasingly cosmopolitan spirit? CB: Our vision is definitely cosmopolitan and it can be interpreted in two meanings: Red of View which goes into the world to get to know the world
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and at the same time the world which gets to know Red of View, starting to become familiar with it, thanks to participating in the main trade fairs, from January onwards, first in order of international importance Cosmoprof in Bologna and, equally interesting, Cosmetech Japan, as well as Make-up in Paris, and some editions in other countries of the same show. At Cosmetech Tokyo Japan, we have exhibited for three years running: it is a highly sophisticated and at times impenetrable cosmetics fair, in which a new and interesting type of culture can be gained. The Japanese market is very interested in what is going on in Europe, especially in Italy where, as is well known, make-up is a reason for great pride and for us, exhibiting at a Japanese fair means having the opportunity to have a longer vision.
Asia is definitely an area in great development and, precisely for this reason, this year we have decided to exhibit at Make up in… Shanghai, to explore this enormous market which is in everybody’s sights. At the level of fairs, Make Up in Paris remains fundamental, in the heart of the European market. EM: Has ‘tailor made’ characterized your activity from the start? Is it due to your training as a formulator? CB: Yes, but that is not the only reason. It belongs to the philosophy of the company. We say that “a chemistry” is created with the client, which determines a close relationship of collaboration and exchange. The chemistry that is created is that factor which has to be listened to, evaluated and introduced into the product. The directions have to be able to be many: the product has the probability of being developed the right way by us, and tailor-made means using the elements that are triggered off during the meetings with the client.
With this logical and solid approach, the product has very high possibilities of success. It is obvious that in the expression of our professionalism our ability lies in managing in the smallest details both ex-novo and customization. Beyond our library full of products and know-how, I want to underline how it is the client that determines the product when they start to tell their story and vision. It is at that point that we can introduce our knowledge and convey how to succeed in implementing a given project. EM: How important is it to count on a good work team? CB: Having good work teams is decisive in all aspects, from R & D to management and to production. Red of View is a family company, it is the result of the determination of three siblings, including myself, all with an experience matured in the sector. This experience gives directions to the work group, a young and very receptive team, who shares and finds with us the most suitable solutions for the clients.
INTERVIEW
EM: The pace of the market is fast. Products have an increasingly shorter life and launches follow on one another more and more. Does this also entail a change in the way of operating? CB: This is exactly the current state of things, as a consequence, on our part, we have to increase our attention to maintaining quality; if this does not happen, the faster pace can endanger the main objective, which is customer satisfaction. All this can be avoided with attentive programming: by lengthening the radius of action, and working on projects that are shortmedium- and long-term, it is possible to accompany our clients, anticipating what the brands themselves want to anticipate. This is a change of paradigm, of working method to allow clients to adhere completely to the market. EM: What is it that give you the greatest satisfaction? CB: Satisfaction is the mood with which the group of Red of View works every day, linked to the desire to do well, to accept new
challenges, to do ‘the right thing’ for clients who place their trust in our company. We are growing with a certain speed, although we are still of a reduced dimension compared to other older companies. Yet we are satisfied, because we are moving coherently: coherently in seeing every day ideas being realized, becoming a product, a collaboration and also a representative office which fully corresponds to our desire. Many years ago we felt the need to receive clients in a context that was close to what we represent: beauty. Without looking for too long, we immediately fell in love with the former home of a family of Crema, Palazzo Premoli, as it fully corresponded to the spirit of Red of View; a beauty that is not flaunted, but which discreetly pervades every room, a creative silence full of meaning, a mini-laboratory at the disposal of clients to directly test the products. So that they feel at home, in Italy, in Crema, at Red of View.
GET LACKY: WATER BASED NAIL POLISH WBNP – 1704 – XX-XXXX Finally a nail polish with no toxic chemicals How long consumers have been waiting for a nail polish without all the toxic chemicals and time constraint of a conventional nail polish? Red of View R & D has succeeded to study a special formula to get a unique non-traditional nail polish, completely water based. This formula, formulated with a non-toxic acrylic emulsion, is safe, has no odor, a high coverage, a very good drying time and an extra shine finish. Its performance is just like a solvent based nail polish without all the inconvenient of conventional solvent polishes. As formulated with mainly water, Get Lacky is safe, non toxic and less aggressive to consumer’s nails while applying and wearing the product. The formula is free of: Formaldehyde or Formaldehyde like derivatives; Acetate or any other petrochemical solvents; Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP) or other phthalates; Polyurethanes or Polyurethane film-formers: Polyester resins: Parabens or Camphor. No doubt about full coverage: coverage is granted by selected pigments giving the best performance. A specially designed process has been studied and developed to ensure the best properties and performances of the product.
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LAUNCH
DIVAGE discoveries and surprises
The Italian make-up brand aims to be increasingly closer to the daily needs of women
for consumers with new launches
Two new capsule collections open 2018 #TAKEMYHAND is the first of the year’s two new capsule collections, dedicated to a new line of gel effect nail varnishes. The UV Gel Lux, which enrich the Divage nail world. Six Varnishes and a Top Coat with a revolutionary professional formula in gel, perfect for ultra-shiny nails with a super glossy finish. The colour palette ranges from pastel shades to strong colours, giving an intense and even effect from the very first coat and drying in record time.
METALLIC VIBES is a collection that audaciously interprets the metallic trend, playing with magnetic and super pigmented colours: the Everlasting nail varnishes, Metallic Glow eyeshadows and the Metal Glam liquid lipsticks, interpret nails with vibrant and intense force, luminous and bright eyes and lips in dazzling shades. Metallic Glow, in four sparkling shades, is a highlighting technological eyeshadow with a formula based on oils and concentrated pigments for an ultra-intense result without drying the skin. Thanks to it technology, it can be used with a wet brush to obtain an original wet effect. Everlasting nail varnish, available in four strong colours, contains a special concentrated formula of pigments in a double layer of gel. Its formulation guarantees rapid drying and ensures a duration of 7 days without requiring touch-ups. Metal Glam Liquid Lipstick, which is applied like a gloss but has the finish of a lipstick, gives a pure metal effect to lips.
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Divage Mascaras: a strong point in constant development Mascara is the best-selling Divage product. Extremely appreciated by consumers thanks to the quality of the product and the especially designed brushes for optimal definition of lashes according to the product’s promise (volumizing, lengthening, curling, false lash effect etc.). The Divage family of mascaras has ten references, each with a characteristic key for a specific result.
Constant investment in R&D and the ability of capturing trends are at the basis of a technologically advanced product with certified quality and practical and glamorous packaging. Two new mascaras join the Divage family this year: Pump It Up, a high tech mascara which lifts the lashes from the roots, incredibly increasing the intensity of the eyes, and Good Vibes, which separates and lengthens lashes. Focusing attention on the eyes which become seductive and hypnotic.
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EVENTS
BeautyIstanbul IPEKYOLU Exhibitions with 20 years experience, is back to cosmetics and beauty industry trade with a new project: new date, new venue, a highly-experienced team
Mahmut Er, IPEKYOLU CEO
IPEKYOLU Exhibitions headquartered in Istanbul, has been in exhibition business almost since 20 years by organising exhibitions in Istanbul, Moscow, Almaty, Dubai, etc... and also has a proven record of success with its previous events. Ipekyolu started its activities back in 1999 by organising Turkish Pavilions to overseas beauty exhibitions. Dubai, Paris and several other destinations. Later 2005 launched and run 10 years a beauty show in Istanbul; in 2014 sold the event to a multinational exhibition company. During last 20 years Ipekyolu organised several other international events in different industries in Istanbul, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan. Due to success of its events and quality of services, Ipekyolu has been awarded as UFI (International Exhibition Organisers Union) member status since 2007. As a result of market needs, demand from cosmetics, beauty industry, after 3 years of repowering, refreshing and rejuveunating, IPEKYOLU recently launched Beauty Istanbul event with new brilliant ideas. BeautyIstanbul expect to host more than 400 exhibitors from 40 countries main parts of exhibitors being from Turkey, Europe, Asian countries. Personal care products, perfumery, hair products, spa & wellness products, make up, dermocosmetics, nail care, hair & beauty salon equipment and products, home care and cleaning/hygiene products will be showcased. An important focus of the exhibition will be for growing trends of Natural/Organic Cosmetics and Halal Cosmetics.
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Beauty Istanbul will not only be a platform for finished products, but also will be a gathering place for retail chains source their own brands with concurrent event Private Label Istanbul. Additionally all the process of manufacturing cosmetics, beauty products, from ingredients, to packaging, machinery, labelling will be displayed at CosmakingIstanbul. BeautyIstanbul will be a 3 in 1 platform bringing together all segments of industry. More than 8000 professional trade visitors are expected from 100 countries being at least 35% international. BeautyIstanbul, in terms of buyers, is not only targeting traditional hub-regional markets but also far destinations: all CIS Ex Soviet Areas (in Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan Ipekyolu has its own offices), Eastern Europe and Balkans, Middle East, Gulf & Arabic speaking countries, North Africa and Magrheb, and new undiscovered markets of all African continent covering about 50 countries, including Central – Latin America and Carribbean countries, and South & South East Asia. BeautyIstanbul team recently had a roadshow trip to Panama, Ecuador, Costa Rica and Mexico to promote the event. To assure this targets, BeautyIstanbul’s multilingual big team started its activities for the event, almost 2 years ahead, all over the world, making roadshows, direct face to face contacts and visits, using conventional and online as well as social media. In addition to organiser-IPEKYOLU Exhibitions own efforts, the magic city Istanbul itself with its business, history, nature, culture, leisure contribues convincing buyers to come to Istanbul and event.
Turkish Airlines with its transit hub Istanbul, being the number 1 airlines flying much more destinations throuhghout the world makes it easy for both exhibitors and visitors. BeautyIstanbul is investing for international hosted buyer program to make sure the success and quality of international buyers at the first edition and targeting to host 1.000 international buyers from all around the world. New date: BeautyIstanbul’s October 2-3-4 dates have been specially chosen to meet the expectations of both manufacturers and buyers.
The President of Panama visited BeautyIstanbul promotional booth in Bogotà
New venue: Istanbul Congress Center is at the heart of city, just less than 10 minutes walking distance from main Taksim Square and close distance to all attractions in Istanbul, like Bosphorus, Istiklal Street-Taksim, Old City – Sultanahmet – Grand Bazar Area, Nisantası shopping district and several other shopping malls. See you at BeautyIstanbul, October 2-3-4, 2019 www.beautyistanbul.com.tr T. +90-212.222.90.60
beautyistanbul Exhibition for Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair ICC - ISTANBUL CONGRESS CENTER (TAKSIM) TURKEY
2-3-4
OCTOBER
2019
www.beautyistanbul.com.tr Organizer: Ä°PEKYOLU International Exhibitions Ltd
ULUSLARARASI FUARCILIK LTD
Tel: +90.212.603 31 33 - Fax: +90.212.603 31 34 - info@ipekyolu.info 29 Ekim Cd. No: 3 Vizyon Park 1. Plaza Ofis 41 Yenibosna - Istanbul / Turkey
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HALL 5-8
20-22 SEPTEMBER 2018
• Gain easy access to ASEAN distribution and retail channels • Be part of a comprehensive solution for the cosmetics industry • Set up global strategic alliances in Thailand and other ASEAN markets • Exchange ideas with ASEAN beauty professionals leading to business
2 SHOWS, 1 VENUE SAME DATE, SAME LOCATION!
ORGANIZED BY
SUPPORTED BY
China Chengdu Beauty Expo
China Beauty Expo
Chengdu 2018.04.19-21
Shanghai 2018.05.22-24
RECOGNIZED BY
Mekong Beauty Show Ho Chi Minh City 2018.06.14-16
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USEFUL ADDRESSES Acqua di Portofino Blue Pollack Fabi - Hugh Parsons Panama - Pineider - Riva
Profumitalia s.r.l. Via A. Costa, 2 - I-20131 Milano tel. +39/02-45375660 info@profumitalia.net - www.profumitalia.it
Acampora Profumi
Bruno Acampora Profumi B.A.P. s.r.l. Via G. Filangieri, 72 - I-80121 Napoli tel. +39/081.401701 - fax +39/081.414162 www.brunoacampora.com
Acqua di Genova Acqua di Portofino - Bruno Bozzini Contessa di Castiglione
Intercosma West Via Luigi Canepa, 2 - I-16165 Genova - Italy tel. +39-010/803808 - fax +39-010/804314 info@intercosmawest.it - www.intercosmawest.it
Air-Val Beverly Hills Fragrances
Air-Val Int. s.a. C/Miguel Servet, 27 E-08850 Gava (Barcelona) tel. +34-93/6355335 - fax +34-93/6629806
Alyson Oldoini Parfums
Luciano Oldoini s.r.l. V.le Geno 10 - I-22100 Como Show-room: Via Montenapoleone, 21 I-20122 Milano www.alysonoldoiniparfums.com
Ancorotti Cosmetics
Ancorotti Cosmetics s.r.l. Via del Commercio, 1 I-26013 Crema (CR) tel. +39/0373-876811.21 - fax +39/0373-876811
Antiqua Firenze - IO•KO
Enzo Galardi Via Ilio Barontini 22 - I-50018 Scandicci (FI) elisa.atelierbois.gmail.com - www.bois1920.it
Ars Mirabile - CBN M Masterpiece
S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. Via della Liberazione, 56 I-20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) tel. +39-02/98280925 - fax +39-02/98280975
Astra
Giufra S.r.l. Via Veneto, 152 - I-06059 Todi (PG) tel. +39-075.8987455 - fax +39-075.8987691
Axis - Hoops - Elanzia Esprit de Versailles - Mercedes Monaco - Yujin
INCC Group 85, avenue de Saint Cloud F-78000 Versailles tel. +33/1-39670671 - fax + 33/1-39670672 www.inccgroup-parfums-com
Artdeco
Artdeco Cosmetic Group Gaussstrasse 13 - D-85757 Karlsfeld tel. +49/8131-390100 - fax +49/8131 390129
Aubade - Montana
Parfums Montana - Empire of Scents 4, Place Wagram - F-75017 Paris tel +33-1/42650072 - fax +33-1/42650074
Alessandro Dell’Acqua - Missoni Moschino - John Richmond Joseph Abboud - Naj Oleari
Euroitalia s.r.l. Via G. Galilei, 1 - I-20040 Cavenago Brianza (MI) tel. +39-02/95916.1 - fax +39-02/95916500
Amarena Bella Oggi
Eurostyle s.p.a. I-80035 Nola - Interporto di Nola, Lotto D Blocco 4, Mod. 407/408 tel. +39-081/5108427 - fax +39-081/3158162 www.amarenamakeup.com - info@amarenamakeup.com
Aquolina, Baldinini Paglieri 1876 Pink Sugar
Selectiva s.p.a. S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 - fax +39-0131/6186663
Armand Basi - Angel Schlesser Custo - Joaquín Cortés Mandarina Duck - Yekipé
IDESA-Angelini Group Via Augusta, 59-9 - E-08006 Barcelona tel. +34-93/2920891 - fax +34-93/2176881
Alain Delon - Jaguar - Lalique Nikki Beach - Parfums Grès Ultrasun
Art & Fragrance SA Bühlstrasse 1 - CH-8125 Zollikerberg - Switzerland Direct +41-43/4994532 - Phone +41-43/4994500 fax +41-43/4994502 www.art-fragrance.com
ALV by Alviero Martini Villa Talente
Beautimport s.p.a. Via Bentini, 55 I-40013 Castel Maggiore - BO tel. +39-051/7094611 - fax +39-051/700652
Atkinsons - Benetton Ferrari - Iceberg John Galliano Sergio Tacchini
Perfume Holding - Morris s.p.a. Via Maretto, 13 I-43100 Parma - Roncopascolo tel. +39-0521/662111 - fax +39-0521/662268
Balmain Parfums - Celine - Lanvin Interparfums Paul Smith - Roxi - Van Cleef & Arpels 4 Rond Point del Champs Elysées Jimmy Choo - Mont Blanc F-75008 Paris tel. +33/1-53770000 - fax +33/1-53763626 Basile - Compagnia delle Indie Egon von Fürstenberg Lancetti - Lotto Nazareno Gabrielli Sweet Years
Weruska & Joël s.r.l. Corso Moncalieri, 381 I-10133 Torino tel. +39-011/6611066 fax +39-011/6611348
B.Kolor
B.Kolormakeup & Skincare s.p.a. Via Canonica, 79/A Loc. Geromina – I-24047 Treviglio (BG) tel. +39/0363-590011 – fax +39/0363-590212 info@bkolormakeup.com www.bkolormakeup-skincare.com
Blumarine - Dsquared2 Pomellato - Trussardi
ITF s.p.a. - Angelini Group Strada Provinciale, 25 - Km. 2,8 - I-26900 Lodi tel. +39-0371/4001 - fax +39-0371/400227
Boutique
Garden Cosmetics Via Pigafetta, 20 I-28100 Novara
Cale’
CALE’ s.r.l. Via S.Maria Podone, 5 - I-20123 Milano tel. +39/02-76002494 - fax +39/02-76009407 ww.cale.it - s.levi@cale.it
Carla Fracci Caron
Carla Fracci Via Morosini, 30 - I-20135 Milano tel. +39-02/54063272 - fax +39-02/54189605 Parfums Caron 99, rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré - F-75008 Paris tel. +331/34235450 - fax +331/34235451 nguil@alesgroupe.com - www.parfumscaron.com
L’Erbolario
L’Erbolario s.p.a. V.le Milano, 74 - I-26900 Lodi tel. +39/0371-4911 - fax +39/0371-491411 www.erbolario.com
Locherber
Cosval s.p.a. V.le delle Industrie 10/5 - I-20020 Arese (MI) tel. +39/02 935 80 479 - fax +39/02 935 81 022 www.cosvality.com
Lubin
Lubin 3, rue du Roule - F-75001 Paris tel: +33-1/40677009 - fax +33-1/45021316
The Merchant of Venice - Police Replay - Zippo - Manila Grace Blauer USA - Pino Silvestre Monotheme - I Profumi di d’Annunzio
Mavive S.p.A. Via Altinia, 298/B I-30173 Venezia (Dese) tel. +39-041/5417771 - fax +39-041/5417798
MI-RE
MI-in Paris 102, rue des Poissonniers - F-75018 Paris tel. +33/6-65299995 www.mirecosmetics.com - etremosa@mi-in.kr
Mojo
Ars Parfum GmbH D-50667 Koeln - Komodierstrasse 56-58 tel. +49-221914088-0 - fax +49-221914088-10
Molinard
Parfums Molinard 60, boulevard Victor Hugo F-06130 Grasse tel. +334-92423322 - fax +334-89123068 export@molinard.com - www.molinard.com
Morgan - Salvador Dalì
Cofinluxe 6, Rue Anatole de la Forge F-75017 Paris tel. +33-1/55377172 - fax +33-1/46229827
Carrera
Almon srl Viale Sondrio, 7 - 20124 Milano - Italy tel. +39 02 84086374 - fax +39 02 84086354 e-mail: info@almon.it - www.almon.it
Collistar
Collistar s.p.a. Via Pirelli, 19 - I-20124 Milano tel. +39-02/677503 - fax +39-02/6775454
Costume National
Beauty San s.p.a. Via Rimini, 37 - I-59100 Prato tel. +39-0574/43891 - fax +39-0574/438940 www.beautysan.net
Coverderm Covermark
Farmeco Head Office: 11 Ag. Glykerios Str. - GR-11147 Athens, Greece tel. +30-20/2131701 - fax +30-20/2136036 Branch Office: Strada 6 Palazzo P1 Milano Fiori - I-20089 Rozzano (MI) tel. +39-02/89200150/167 - fax +39-02/89200371
Nesti Dante
Nesti Dante s.r.l. Via della Molina, 39 - I-50010 S.Donnino (FI) tel. +39-055/8739401/2 - fax 39-055/8739768
Orlane
diego dalla palma diego dalla palma RVB Lab
Cosmetica s.r.l. Via S. Carlo 28 I-40023 Castel Guelfo (BO) tel. +39-0542/670911 - fax +39-0542/670911
Orlane 12-14, Rond Point des Champs Elysées F-75008 Paris tel +33-1/44357200 - fax +33-1/44357280
Paglieri
Exclusive division: Braccialini - Byblos - Gandini Luciano Soprani - Transvital Prestige division: Australian - Bionsen La Gazzetta dello Sport - Lola Looney Tunes - Renato Balestra Rockford
Eurocosmesi Via Gobetti, 4 I-40050 Funo di Argelato (BO) tel. +39-051/6649238 fax +39-051/6649248
Paglieri s.p.a. S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 - I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 - fax +39-0131/6186663
Parfums du Château de Versailles
Franck Olivier
Sodip 21, Boulevard Montmartre- F-75002 Paris - France tel. +33-1/40262020 - fax +33-1/42210888
CFFC - Conservatoire Français des Fragrances et Cosmétiques 12-14 Rond-Point Des Champs Élysées F-75008 - Paris tel.: +33-1-53531631 - fax: +33-1-53531400 contact@cffc-paris.com - patricemichel@cffc-paris.com www.cffc-paris.com
Parfums Pergolèse Paris
Parfums Pergolèse Paris 59, Rue De Miromesnil - F-75008 Paris Tel. +33-(0)1/53581402 or 1435 www.parfums-pergolese-paris.com
Payot
Laboratoires Dr. N G Payot 10, boulevard du Parc - F-92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine tel. +331/55625454 contact@payot.fr - www.payot.com
Pupa Miss Milkie
Micy’s Company s.p.a. Via De Gasperi, 22 - I-23880 Casatenovo (LC) tel. +39-039/92341 - fax +39-039/89205859
Rancé
Rancé & C. s.r.l. Via Lombardini, 10 - I-20143 Milano tel. +39-02/58100855 - fax +39-02/89401058
Sandalia
Officina Profumeria Sarda s.r.l. I-07041 Alghero (SS) tel. + 39/340 3872516 www.acquadisardegna.it infor@officinaprofumeriasarda
Salvatore Ferragamo Ungaro
Salvatore Ferragamo Italia s.p.a. Via dei Tornabuoni, 2 - I-20123 Firenze tel. +39-055/33601 - fax +39-055/3360734
Fedua
Filorga
Fedua Cosmetics Via Moretto 27 - I-25122 Brescia tel. +39/030-2590833 commerciale@fedua.com - www.fedua.com Laboratoires Filorga 2-4 rue de Lisbonne - F-75008 Paris tel. +33 1 42939400 - fax + 331 42937965 guillaume.ledeme@filorga.com - www.filorga.com
Giorgio Jäneke
Giorgio Jäneke s.r.l. I-20050 Veduggio (MI) tel. +39-0362/911010 a.r. - fax +39-0362/911100
Gli Elementi
GLI ELEMENTI s.r.l. Via Domenico Cimarosa, 3 I-20144 Milano www.glielementi.it - d.brichetti@italian-philosophy.it
Guudcure Pollution
HSA GROUP S.p.A. Via Ugo Foscolo, 27 - I-21050 Bisuschio (VA) tel. +39/0332-476554 - fax +39/03332-850307 hsa@hsacosmetics.com - www.hsacosmetics.com
Henry Cotton’s Ducati- Mcs -Monello Mascalzone NY League
Diamond International s.r.l. Via Foce Cesano,4/9 - I-60019 Senigalla (AN) tel. +39/071-6610226 - fax +39/071-6611104 info@diamondint.it - www.difragrances.com
Simone Cosac
Simone Cosac Profumi s.r.l. Via Villamagna, 56/58 I-50012 Bagno a Ripoli (Firenze) tel. + 39/055-631251 - fax +39/055-631262
Intertrade Europe
HI Intertrade Europe Via Portogallo,11/125 - I-35127 Padova tel. +39-049/7625241 - fax +39-049/762 5177
Teatro Fragranze Uniche
Jean Couturier Léonard
VAG & Distribution 6, rue Pasquier - F-75008 Paris tel. +33-1/58183970 - fax +33-1/40060210
Teatro Fragranze Uniche s.r.l. Via Pietro Nenni, 26/28 - I-50019 Sesto Fiorentino (FI) tel. +39/055.4212240 www.teatrofragranzeuniche.it info@teatrofragranzeuniche.it
Valobra
Jesus del Pozo Roberto Verino Starck - Tous
Perfumes y Diseño España, S.L. Isla del Hierro, 5 E-28709 San Sebastian de los Reyes (Madrid) tel. +34-91/6588843 - fax +34-91/6588849
Valobra Via G. Carducci, 5/7 - I-16121 Genova tel. +39-010/581179 - fax +39-010/5702191
Versace
Kiko
Milano Cosmetics s.r.l. Via Depretis, 6/9 - I-24122 Bergamo tel. +39-035/3693611 - fax +39-035/3693612
Euroitalia s.r.l. Via G. Galilei, 1 I-20040 Cavenago Brianza (MI) tel. +39-02/95916.1 - fax +39-02/95916500
Layla
Layla Cosmetics s.r.l. Via dei Pestagalli, 21 - I-20138 Milano tel. +39-02/5062052 - fax +39-02/5061160
Fragrance division: Arrogance - GMV Cosmetic division: Pikenz - PZ - PKZ SPA Scrinium Vital
The First s.p.a. Via Fieno, 8 I-20123 Milano tel. +39-02/661381 fax +39-02/66138519
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Defined, sensual and volumized lips. Hydra Lipsclick has been designed to create a Sculpting Volume Effect, which means tridimensional lips, through the two ton-sur-ton combinations of color: the color enclosed in the centre lights up the heart of the lips, while the darker color on the outside gives deepness and definition. The formula, contained in the Hydra heart, is highly nutritious, creamy and pigmented, it melts on the lips and delivers a full and shiny color; enriched with the soft focus complex that fades, hides and smooths imperfections. The innovation of the packaging with click-activated opening sublimates all the femininity of the gesture of wearing a lipstick. Available in eight elegant, never seen before combinations of color.
www.astramakeup.com
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