export.magazine@mteedizioni.it
THE INTERNET GUIDE TO THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY WORLDWIDE
exportmagazine.net
I N T E R N E T
N. 8 / 2019 - bimestrale - mte Edizioni s.r.l. - Via r. gessi 28 - 20146 Milano - Tariffa R.O.C.: Poste Italiane s.p.a. Spedizione in abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB - Modena - €7 In caso di mancato recapito inviare al CPO MODENA per la restituzione previo pagamento resi. - CONTIENE SUPPLEMENTO
YO U R B U S I N E S S PA RT N E R F O R D O M E S T I C & D U T Y F R E E M A R K E T S WO R L D W I D E
I
GUUDCURE is a brand of H.S.A. S.p.A, www.hsacosmetics.com - made in italy
THE HEALTHY AGEING AND CLEAN BEAUTY SKIN CARE BRAND A natural and healthy ageing process and the use of “clean” products, with ingredients that pose no hazard to human health nor the environment, makes GUUDCURE the good care for skin.
POLLUTION FREE The complete anti-pollution range with Zeolite protecting the skin from polluting agents and impurities with a preventive anti-ageing action.
AGE BALANCE
The latest generation anti-ageing skincare system with a double action: rebalancing the skin thanks to pre and probiotics that prevent ageing, and correcting particular skin damages with targeted active ingredients.
INTERCHARM Mosca – 23-26 October / ASIA DERMA Singapore – 31 October-2 November / COSMOPROF ASIA Hong Kong – 13-15 November Discover the complete range on guudcure.com or shop.guudcure.com
Advertisers’ index
On the cover: Moschino Toy Boy, a new, iconic men’s fragrance, by Euroitalia
N. 8 ANNO XXXIX OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 2019 OTTOBRE /NOVEMBRE 2019 - BIMONTHLY CONTIENE SUPPLEMENTO DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano n. 85 del 16/02/1991 Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena Printing: Formagrafica s.r.l. - Carpi (MO) Art Director Teresa Tibaldi Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl Via Romolo Gessi, 28 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/48.95.23.05 Telefax 02/41.23.405 E-mail: mteedizi@mteedizioni.it
16-17 32 40 50 66/68
COMPANY The Harmonist Divage Astra Make up Acca Kappa Inika Organic
88/90
EVENTS China Beauty Expo
64-65 76-77 80-81
INTERVIEW KRESK Group: G.Ledème Princess Marina de Bourbon: Princess M. de Bourbon Payot: M.L. Simonin Braun SA.G Group: T. Goebel Paglieri Felce Azzurra: A. Bastoni - M. Milazzo Teaology: P. Bevegni Intercos: D. Ferrari Beauty and Luxury: A. Panepinto
8 10/13 22/23 24 28 30 44 46 52 54 56 60
LAUNCH Le Couvent des Minimes Moschino Toy Boy Naj Oleari Imperial Emerald Rockford Wildblack Luciano Soprani: jolie princess Scotch & Soda Kaviar Gauche Ducati Gattinoni Nouba Felce Azzurra Bio
14 84/86
REPORT Furla and Mavive Beautystreams: The great white hope
6-7 18 20-21 42-43 58-59
Managing Editor Giuseppe Tirabasso Editor-in-chief Claudia Stagno E-mail: export.magazine@mteedizioni.it Correspondent for France: Catherine du Villard Consultants Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom Francesca Bonelli - Roberto Cimarosa Valerie Kaminov - Rebecca Lazzari Joan Rundo - Simona Verga Catherine Wrenn P.R. Promotion Italy: M.T.E. Edizioni
4
Artdeco Astra Beautystreams Beautyworld Middle East B•Kolor Make up & Skincare CBE - China Beauty Expo Cosmetech Cosmo Tokyo Cosmobeauté Cosmoprof Asia Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Divage Ducati Farmeco - Coverderm Felce Azzurra Filorga Gattinoni Guudcure HSA Inika Organic Intercharm Moscow Luciano Soprani jolie princess Kaviar Gauche Layla Cosmetics Luigi Borrelli Moschino Toy Boy Mercedes-Benz Man Nouba Packaging Première Payot Polo Cosmesi Scotch & Soda Scents of the World - Lufthansa Teaology The Harmonist The Merchant of Venice Toni Gard Transvital
27 36/39 87 26 96-III 91 93 94 92 79 75 33 53 70-71 61 9 55 2-3 82-83 69 34 31 47 72/74 35 Cover-II-1-IV 5 57 62 19 48 45 49 63 15 25 51 29
#mbmanintense
5
INTERVIEW
KRESK Group focus on Le Couvent des Minimes and Lazartigue
INTERVIEW WITH GUILLAUME LEDEME, CEO International Business
EXPORT MAGAZINE: Your group has recently bought the brand Le Couvent des Minimes. How is its launch proceeding in France and abroad? GUILLAUME LEDEME: The brand was bought by Kresk Group two years ago and relaunched in October 2018 with a penetration of one thousand stores in Europe, with an exclusivity by country by retailer. For example, in France, Switzerland and Austria, exclusivity has been granted to Marionnaud, in Italy, Poland, the Netherlands and Spain, to Douglas. In Germany we have opened 130 doors at Beauty Alliance through our German partner EM: What is your distribution strategy? GL: In a short time we have started with massive distribution in the finest stores, with the concept of positioning Le Couvent as a niche brand, of great quality, at a reasonable price and essentially through the perfumery chain.
6
The products are also vegan, which is a fairly new aspect; the fragrances are of a very high level, and the packaging has been designed in full respect of nature and the environment. This ethical attitude is also respected for the quality of the formulation, with ingredients of natural origin that respect the planet where we live. We have a sell-out that is showing constant progress, improving every month. We are making many efforts to build up the brand, to make the product known; the retailers, on their side, have greatly appreciated Le Couvent concept, and granted high quality space and visibility to the Brand. EM: Other strong points of the brand? GL: All our fragrances are overseen by Jean-Claude Ellena. We are honoured that one of the greatest perfumers in the world, who has worked for the best luxury brands, is putting his forty years of experience at the disposal of Le Couvent.
This new collection came out in September and completes the fragrance offer; they are very original fragrances, which cannot be found elsewhere, each of which interprets the personality of an animal. We are therefore on sophisticated topics, it is a re-invention of high-end French perfumery yet we sell where normally commercial brands are bought. And the consumer chooses Le Couvent because it is a fragrance that is different from others, unique of its kind. We also meet less competition inside perfumeries, because we are practically the only ones to have a different approach, offering the retailer the possibility of having a differentiated offer, bringing a new target of consumers to their point of sale. We have one of the largest collections of fragrance in perfumeries thanks to our strategy of not developing flankers, which allows us to have an offer that corresponds to everyone, versus more standardized fragrances. Le Couvent is also strongly developing the art of gifting with state of the art sets EM: What are the origins of the brand Le Couvent? GL: Le Couvent is a mythical place that dates back to the 17th century, in the region of Grasse, the cradle
of French perfumery. The story is that of a man who stayed at the Convent des Minimes and travelled the world in search of infinite botanical species; he was the botanist of King Louis XIV. A magnificent and real story is at the origin of the concept of Le Couvent, which also inspired us for the natural and vegan aspect of the fragrances. EM: As well as the countries mentioned earlier, where else is Le Couvent distributed? GL: In Scandinavia we are in Kicks, the leading chain with 400 perfumeries. We have signed agreements in Lebanon, we are at an advanced stage of negotiations in Mexico and with the finest retailers in Russia and the neighbouring countries; in China we are distributed in the cross border channel, as there is still the Chinese law that requires tests on animals and as the brand is vegan we do not intend subjecting the products to this type of testing. We are also distributed in Japan through specialty stores and department stores EM: Do you have plans in the travel retail channel? GL: We are at the beginning; as always first of all we have to become established on domestic markets. We have exhibited the
INTERVIEW
brand in Chinese airlines with a set of 4 fragrances and we have just opened a point of sale in a Shinseghae duty free store in Korea. EM: As well as the collection of fragrances, does the line have other references? GL: We have home ancillary products including home fragrance and candles; and also hand creams which are greatly appreciated for their natural composition and outstanding texture. EM: Let’s talk about Lazartigue, the other brand Kresk Group has purchased. GL: Lazartigue has in common with Le Couvent that it is vegan! It is also a very old brand with a powerful story, which is 50 years old and had its best moments on the European and US markets. We bought it a year ago from Mr Jean François Lazartigue, a famous French hairdresser. Mr Lazartigue was a pioneering expert of hair who developed a unique diagnostic system and formulations with natural active ingredients. He was recognized for the high quality of his hair care.
First, we completely renewed and repositioned it between May and September this year: new images, new formulas to go deeper into the philosophy of clean and natural cosmetics. It is one of the few houses that do not add sulfates or silicones to its shampoos, a very rare fact in this product category. Of course, our formulas are fairly expensive as we use raw materials of great quality, however no other choice would have been possible, as we wanted to respect vegan and natural formulations as well as the heritage left by Jean François Lazartigue. To continue this professional approach of Mr Lazartigue, we will be proposing, as well as the products characterized by “expert” formulas, digital diagnostic instruments
that can analyse the quality of the hair to then propose ad hoc solutions. Treatment is the basic topic, which is expressed through shampoos with an important value, a washing conditioner,
masks, and “huile de rêve”, a star product that offers real shine and nourishing care for the hair. We are looking at a brand which, although technical and founded by an expert, is at the same time a beauty Brand, which excludes everything that is against nature; no chemical ingredients that could damage the hair and pollute the environment; maximum respect for the earth, animals and nature. EM: What is the distribution strategy? GL: A distribution suitable for the brand which, as it is a premium product and with fairly high prices, deserves a certain positioning. In Europe, it will be in the best pharmacists’ for 85% and in perfumeries for the remaining 15%. We will be signing exclusive agreements with a single retailer per country. In perfumery, we will work with the most committed partners who want to develop the hair category which is not very present in this channel. We will be privileging those retailers - and they exist in various countries - that have a particular sensibility in treating a hair brand like ours that can offer an adequate service of diagnosis and treatment. We started in August/September in France, Italy, Spain and Portugal through our Group Affiliates. We have signed a certain number of agreements with Lebanon, Saudi Arabia, Russia and are in advanced discussions in Germany.
New markets will join established distributors that we will keep, as in Thailand, Taiwan, Chile and Indonesia. Outside Europe, we are thinking of a distribution which would be in hairstyling centres, high end hairdressers, and in perfumeries, depending on the countries. In the United States, where Lazartigue already had a turnover of around 10 M$, we have created a subsidiary. At first we will concentrate on digital through our website and some partner sites; we will also be opening some flagship hair salons. EM: What is the choice to mainly sell in pharmacies in Europe due to? GL: The brands present in pharmacies in Europe today are the same as for a long time. Recently there have been few new products or launches. We will try to wake up and shake up this market and bring something new. The presence of Lazartigue in pharmacies corresponds well to the brand as it is, as I said, an expert brand, created by a hair professional and reformulated with the expertise of Kresk Group. Kresk Group, the holding of Didier Tabary was the main shareholder of Filorga before it was sold to Colgate Company. Today we are looking for new acquisitions in the cosmetics sector, brands with high added value, innovative positioning and not competing directly with our current portfolio.
C.S.
7
LAUNCH
LEportraits COUVENT of nature in singular fragrances
The brand with roots in botany presents new Eaux de Parfums inspired by animals
Le Couvent des Minimes has an exceptional Director of Olfactory Creation in the person of JeanClaude Ellena, considered one of the greatest noses in the world. For over fifty years, he has left his imprint on the landscape of French prestige perfumery. After having been the nose of Hermès for fourteen years, he is now at the head of Le Couvent des Minimes’ Olfactory Creation.
8
He speaks of this collaboration as impulsive, a story of encounters and exchanges and points in common: noble raw materials, naturalness and singularity, anchored in the DNA of the brand, are evocative for this man who loves before anything else composing his fragrances “in distinction, refined, grace and generosity.”
of the best perfumers Jean-Claude Ellena, one creation director e ctiv olfa rld, wo the in s of Le Couvent des Minime
Les Eaux de Parfums Singulières, conceived in Grasse by expert noses with the final selection by Jean-Claud Ellena, have up to 89% of raw materials of natural origin and a concentration of 15%. Inspired by animals, they compose five portraits of nature. Nubica has all the sensuality of the lioness and is an amber-woody fragrance with Patchouli and Tonka Vanilla. Lysandra is inspired by the grace of a butterfly. It is a floral and powdery fragrance with Jasmin Grandiflorum and Mandarine. Hattaï draws on the instinct of the she-wolf, and in an amber-gourmand fragrance, with Red Berries and Ambery wood. Saïga has the elegance of the antelope and is a floral fruity fragrance, with Rose Centifolia and Cassis Bud. The last fragrance in the Eaux de Parfums Singulières line is Heliaca, with the power of an eagle: a spicy woody fragrance, it contains Oud wood and Ginger. All the fragrances are 100% vegan and come in to sizes, 100 ml and 50 ml.
9
LAUNCH
TOY BOY by Moschino The new exclusive fragrance for men by Moschino, Toy Boy, is, like the other Moschino fragrances, under international licence of EuroItalia. Elegance reinterpreted with a touch of irony is how best to describe the new iconic fragrance by Moschino, Toy Boy, the first men’s fragrance created for the brand by its creative director Jeremy Scott.
The brand, famous for its irreverent approach, presents a new, iconic men’s fragrance
S O M E B A C K S TA G E I M A G E S
10
LAUNCH
It follows the Toy line, launched by the first unisex edition in 2014 and followed by Toy 2 for women from 2018. Jeremy Scott announced the fragrance on his Instagram account on 27th May, a couple of months before the actual launch, saying he was “very excited to announce my very first fragrance for man for Moschino – Toy Boy.” This new masculine fragrance is for the unique, dynamic, enthusiastic and passionate man, but one who is not afraid of revealing his more tender and playful side. The fragrance is an exciting play of endless codes seeking out re-evaluation and liberation, an intense kiss that reflects the energy and strength of the modern Moschino man but that also dissolves when it encounters his tender embrace.
11
LAUNCH
It features exclusive body care products for everyday use. After Shave Lotion available as a natural spray of 100ml or as a balm in a 100ml tube, Perfumed Bath & Shower Gel in a 250ml tube and a Perfumed Body Gel in a 200ml tube. Moisturizing and emollient, they leave a delicate scent of the fragrance on the skin and immediately provide a lasting sensation of well-being and freshness. The communication features the Brazilian model Jhona Burjack as the Toy Boy ambassador, with Giampaolo Sgura behind the camera and artistic direction by Jeremy Scott.
The fragrance has been made using premium-quality innovative ingredients and delicious notes that reflect the seductive and playful brown teddy bear whose embrace leaves no room for escape. The composition opens with the fruity and intriguing notes of Italian Bergamot, Pink Berries, Elemi Gems and Indonesian Nutmeg. The spicy debut becomes slightly more intense in the heart along with floral notes: Green of Pear Tree, Clove Buds, Rose Neoabsolute Orpur and Flax Flowers take centre stage. Base notes of Cashmeran, Magnolia, Vetiver Haiti Orpur, Ambermax and Sylkolide add woody and ambery touches to the drydown, for sensuality, warmth and persistence.
12
The bottle for a Moschino fragrance is always out of the ordinary and Toy Boy is no exception. It comes in a stunning black glass bottle with a lacquered glossy effect and a luxurious silver finish. It is an ambitious bottle with a captivating design, with one eye on becoming the must-have of the upcoming Autumn-Winter season and the other on awakening the tender and playful side of its man. The cap is modern yet elegant and the packaging reflects the precious nature of its contents. Toy Boy by Moschino is not just an Eau de Parfum (in 30 ml, 50 ml and 100 ml sizes of natural spray) but a bath & body line as well.
LAUNCH
A mb
er
B e rg
m
am ot It a
ax
ly
C as
hm
Clov
e
eB
n
ds
ra
u
E le m
iR
F la x
Fl o rs
sin
we
e
G re
en
o fP
ea r Tre e
M ag
no
Nut
me
g
In
a
li
do n e sia
Pink
Be
Ros e
r
Ne oa
r ie
bso
s
lu t e O r p u r
Sylk o
li d
Veti v
er
YANN VASNIER INTERVIEW FOR NEW MOSCHINO TOY BOY EXPORT MAGAZINE: Which inputs did you received from EuroItalia and Moschino? YANN VASNIER: Jeremy Scott and the team at EuroItalia are the heart of the Toy Boy, of course. They conceptualized the idea of a teddy bear and what it would symbolize within the Moschino brand experience. We worked together, throughout several exchanges, to develop its olfactive identity, thinking about the DNA of the brand, the creative vision of Jeremy Scott and the olfactive inspiration behind the fragrance’s notes & accords. During each phase of the development process Euroitalia’s expertise and insights also shaped the creation. Overall, I think the teams are proud not only of the final fragrance that was crafted but the fact that each step of the way during the development process there was a real spirit of collaboration, in order to make sure that the fragrance embodied the brand and the image of what is Moschino today. EM: Where did you take inspiration to start working on Toy Boy fragrance? YV: I thought of the teddy bear – and all the childhood associations that come with it. I wanted to take all of these childhood memories and twist them, flip them, as Moschino does. In my mind, I visualized a man that is full of contrasts, with a teddy-like tender disposition but very sexy at the same time. Fun and passionate, but very ambitious and confident as well. A man who is sure of himself – all of himself, all of his masculine and feminine sides. With those characteristics in mind I decided to play with contrasts olfactively as well.
H
e
ai t i Or
p ur
EM: How would you describe the juice? YV: This fragrance is one of contrasts. The fragrance has very comforting notes but also very spicy notes. The woods, balms and ambers create sensations of reassurance and comfort.
Sylkolide acts as a soft caress even, but they are all contrasted with the use of fresh spices like pink peppercorn and the spicy warmth of nutmeg, cumin and clove. Intertwining it all together at the heart is Rose Essence – to evoke a passion like no other. EM: Which is the most important element of the olfactive composition? YV: I would say the deep, rich, woody-amber character is most important. Ambermax drives sexy energy and light throughout the fragrance. EM: Which element (among those you put in the juice) do you like the most and why? YV: I have always had an attraction for spices because they add colorful and sparkling sensations to a fragrance… and of course heat, but in Toy Boy I have a soft spot for this new quality of Rose that I used: Neo Rose Absolute. It is delicate and natural, bringing a much needed softness and feminine allure. EM: Do you wear Toy Boy? YV: Yes I always do wear my creations and Toy Boy is definitely my go to fragrance when you want to get noticed and being asked countless times what you are wearing, that’s always a good sign! EM: Can you suggest some moments/ occasions where the juice perfectly fit? YV: I think Toy Boy is like a second skin, as much comfortable in the heat of the sun, a lazy time around a fireplace, or obviously on a hot night out. It brings out the best of your own sensuality.
C.S.
13
REPORT
The Furla Group and Mavive announce a new licensing agreement for the worldwide production and distribution of the first Furla-branded fragrance. Thanks to this partnership, Furla will continue its lifestyle positioning strategy, further diversifying its offer and entering the beauty industry for the first time. In line with the licensing agreements signed to date, the Company has chosen a partner that shares its values of excellence in both production and research, rooted in a profound Made-in-Italy culture.
FURLA andlicensing sign a MAVIVE agreement
The partnership will entail worldwide production and distribution of the first Furla-branded fragrance
The affinity between Furla and Mavive can be seen in the origins and the growth path the two companies have undertaken. Both originated from family-driven entrepreneurship initiatives n the last century, and both affirmed their presence on the global market thanks to managerial dynamism and to their ability to maintain their identities intact. Between tradition and contemporaneity, Italian roots and international vision, the new partnership marks the synergy of two realities that undertake a strongly innovative project based on their common DNA.
14
“For Furla, entering the beauty industry is strategic for our aim to diversify and strengthen the brand’s lifestyle positioning. The creation of a new fragrance will bring our brand even closer to our consumers in the world, underlining the joyful elegance and the positivity that characterize Furla and its collections. A fragrance is something subtle and impalpable that completes and defines your personal style, it’s a true art in which Mavive is a leader. I am certain that, thanks to this collaboration, we will achieve a result that will truly represent us and that will give us great satisfaction.” Declares Alberto Camerlengo, CEO of the Furla Group.
“It is with great satisfaction that we announce the formalization of the licensing agreement with Furla that will allow us to create the first fragrance line of one of the most appreciated and prestigious Italian leather goods brands in the world. It has been an honor for me to work with a Company that has broadcast a message of quality, creativity and Italianness for almost 100 years, and I am certain that the Furla fragrance will enrichen its image that was created in so many years of hard work and dedication even more.” Declares Massimo Vidal, CEO of Mavive.
15
company
THE HARMONIST when fragrance is inspired by
ancient Chinese philosophy
The Harmonist is a young company, founded in 2016 by Lola Tillyaeva, who has been passionate about fragrance since she was very young. She later sought the perfection of balance and harmony and was introduced to the ancient Chinese philosophy of Feng Shui. This experience inspired her to merge it with her passion for fragrance and The Harmonist was born: the first perfume house based on the philosophy of Feng Shui.
16
At the basis of Feng Shui are the five elements of Chinese philosophy: Water, Earth, Fire, Wood and Metal. These are the forces of balance in life and all the matter comprising the Universe. It is from this energy that The Harmonist crafts distinct fragrances aligned with the innate life journeys of its discerning clientele. The Harmonist charts a path of enlightenment through the inner self, inspired by the world of scent. The perfume is selected using the client’s personal “bazi” (astrological ) element to encourage beneficial energy in the area of their life that they are looking to enhance; creativity, seduction, status, prosperity, wisdom etc. The Harmonist’s elixirs are composed with the rarest and most precious natural ingredients from all over the world, harnessing the purest energy levels to create true signature scents. An innate respect for the environment inspired The Harmonist to use recyclable materials at every possible touchpoint, from its perfume bottles and deluxe packaging to its vegetal wax candles.
The first perfume house based on the principles of Feng Shui
All of The Harmonist’s bottles are refillable and each is made from opaque glass that protects the vitality of its precious perfumes. By releasing the ultimate flow of energy to boost personal harmony, The Harmonist’s collection will bring serenity of mind and body.
The fragrances The Premier line of The Harmonist fragrances are composed as Yin or Yang fragrances and based on the five elements. Guiding Water, delicate, fluid and refined, is Yin Water, while Sacred Water (Yang Water) is captivating, essential and mystical. The fire-inspired fragrances are Velvet Fire (Yang Fire), a charismatic, radiant and sensual scent, while Hypnotizing Fire (Yin Fire) is attractive, mysterious and warm. Magnetic Wood (Yin Wood) is elegant, energetic and refined and Golden Wood (Yang Wood) is comfortable, majestic and powerful.
COMPANY
Matrix Metal (Yang metal) is edgy, impactful and vibrant, while metal Flower (Yin metal) is dazzling, eternal and precious. The earth-inspired fragrances are Royal Earth (Yin Earth), rich, seductive and sophisticated, and Desired Earth (Yang Earth) is addictive, immortal and inspiring. The newest addition to The Harmonist fragrances is the floral, fluid and sensual Yin Transformation, reminiscent of the transformation that swells first within the Yin energy and moving into the Yang.
This new scent vibration provides stability, balance and ultimately harmony between the Yin and Yang energies of the wearer. Velvet Fire Candle and Hypnotizing Fire Candle are also available from The Harmonist to enjoy a personal and fulfilling experience of life. The team behind the Harmonist, in addition to the founder Lola Tillyaeva, includes in particular Guillaume Flavigny, enlisted by Lola to develop The Harmonist fragrances. For over five years, he and Lola worked to translate every element into its own unique scent, using the world’s rarest botanical oils to infuse the perfumes with energetic power. Priya Sher is a London-based Feng Shui consultant and considered one of the most influential experts in her field. Priya educates sales teams on the Chinese philosophy and how to guide clients through their personalized consultations, creating a monthly forecast for each of The Harmonist’s ten elements.
Boutiques and retailers The Harmonist fragrances are available at its two boutiques, one in Avenue George V, Paris, and the other in Melrose Place, Los Angeles, as well as at selected and exclusive global retailers, including Peninsula Spa and L’Eclaireur in Paris, Harrods in London, Harvey Nichols in Dubai, Tsum in Moscow, La Rinascente in Italy and Barney’s in New York, the exclusive retailer for the United States. The personalized consultations are available at all the points of sale, to pair the client with the right fragrance according to their yin or yang and the area of life they wish to enhance.
THE HARMONIST – U.S. Distribution BARNEYS NEW YORK: 5 stores + the WEB NYC
Madison Avenue Chelsea (uptown & downtown)
Beverly Hills, CA San Francisco, CA Boston, MA
THE HARMONIST – Italian Distribution July 2019 Acque & Sapone
Via San Felice, 73/A
40122 Bologna
Atelier Zeitgeist - La Rinascente Piazza del Duomo
20121 Milano
Atelier Zeitgeist - La Rinascente Piazza della Repubblica, 4
50123 Firenze
Caleri
Via XXV Aprile, 41/43R
16123 Genova
Giulio
Viale Paolo Mantegazza, 1/M
47921 Rimini
HB
Via dei Due Macelli, 12
00187 Roma
Lady Lu
Via Aga Khan, 1 - Promenade du Port 07021 Porto Cervo
L'O Profumo
Via Pietrapiana, 44R
50122 Firenze
L'Oasi del Benessere
Via Cirillo Monzani, 44/G
42035 Castelnovo ne' Monti
Profumeria Charme
Via Armando Diaz, 44
22100 Como
Profumix Luxury Brands
Via Puccini, 19/21
41121 Modena
Profumo Emozioni Olfattive
Via Carlo Poerio, 33
80121 Napoli
Sede 32
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, 3
76011 Bisceglie
17
INTERVIEW
Princess Marina de Bourbon Once upon a time... 25 years of love story it’s 25th anniversary, but most of all, I'm celebrating this incredible chance I had, of discovering my passion, which is assembling raw materials, one with another, to better reveal them and create a harmony.
INTERVIEW WITH PRINCESS MARINA DE BOURBON
EXPORT MAGAZINE: 2019 is an important year for Princess Marina de Bourbon perfume brand, since you are celebrating an important anniversary. Can you tell us more about it? MARINA DE BOURBON: It all started with an olfactory impulse. I dreamed of enveloping fruity accords, warm, like a caress on the skin, a greedy temptation that would keep some mystery. The melody of this perfume was so much anchored in me that it would wake me up in the night.
18
I had never created perfumes before, nor did I know the technique, the knowledge. It was just a conviction. As luck would have it, I met Laurent Bruyère. A creative love at first sight! I told him about this fragrance. We composed Marina Classic together. The Maison de Parfums, Princesse Marina de Bourbon was born. It was exactly 25 years ago. This year we are celebrating
EM: Are you satisfied with all the fragrances created till now? Do you think that each fragrance interprets a ‘piece’ of your personality, of your environment? MDB: Of course! Nature is my greatest source of inspiration. You know, Flaubert said, "you can create an immense love in the story of a blade of grass." It's a bit what I do. Each fragrance is a love story, a date with an enveloping flower, a sparkling citrus, a bed of moss in the forest... These emotions aroused by the encounter with the raw materials is what I am interested in. I then try to interpret these emotions both fleeting and parading in the composition of my fragrances. EM: Your new fragrance is born. Can you talk about its special meaning? MDB: I wanted to create a silky, enveloping fragrance, yet with
a powerful, royal heart. A tension between the extremes that attract a haunting duet. I chose to play the velvety sweetness of the pear, crystallized by splinters of pink pepper that interact with a sweet orange blossom and a honeyed praline. The bottle, delicately chiselled, reveals an amber juice warmed by the golden tones of the cap. Symbol Royal is this multi-faceted composition that I wanted to create in a unique wake, on the verge of almost unlimitedly persistence. EM: Your first olfactive memory? MDB: I have always been very sensitive to the smells and to the incredible combinations that nature offers to us throughout the different seasons. I remember when I was a child, my grandmother would give me after school, a large bowl of fruit and a piece of brioche. There was always a big bouquet of flowers in the kitchen. I loved these intertwined scents of sweet fruits with the freshness of flowers and the slightly spicy smell of the raised brioche. I believe this unique scent remained one of my favourites.
C.S.
ROSELIFT COLLAGÈNE R EI NVE NTS FIRMNE SS F O R PLU MP A ND RA D IA NT S KIN #LIFTMETENDER
+PLUS DUAL LIFTING ACTION C ELLU LAR WAKE- U P
A pa t e n t e d i n g re di e n t RO S A ct i ve w h i c h r e s t a r t s t h e c e l l m e t a bo l i sm
REDENS IFIES
A C o l l a g e n e - Bo o st i n g Pe pt i d e w h i c h s t i mu l a t e s t h e pro du c t i o n o f c o l l a g e n fib e r s
TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION www.payot.com
#payot
MEET US AT BEACH VILLAGE 2 - BOOTH 14
INTERVIEW
PAYOT expanding into the future INTERVIEW WITH MARIE-LAURE SIMONIN BRAUN, CEO
EXPORT MAGAZINE: The Tax-Free show in Cannes is an unmissable appointment for PAYOT. MARIE-LAURE SIMONIN BRAUN: We are very pleased to attend the TFWA 2019 Edition and for the third time at the Beach Village, nearby the sea, where work is combined with pleasure. A perfect location for business meetings and PR activities. In this pleasant setting, we achieve to meet with our current partners and seek for business development opportunities. We usually meet our clients in scheduled one-to-one meetings. The timing of the Tax Free is perfect and allows to finalize upcoming local events as well as overseeing the projects for the following year. One of our challenges for the coming years is to grow bigger and further expand our business in Asia. ASEAN consumers trust products offering proven results and carrying authenticity. PAYOT’s “doctor brand” legacy and high loyalty rate among consumers on social media should be key assets to succeed. We are also pursuing our implementation in DF & TR and are looking into expanding our
numeric distribution on top of our existing counters in Russian airports. Thanks to the excellent performance of the brand on local markets, we target 10 new counters by the end of 2020 in European airports (ie: Oslo, Hamburg, Frankfurt, Nice to name a few). The Export team is also experiencing inflight sales after the recent successes on-board Aeroflot. I am pleased to announce that Ryanair will propose on-board and, in their catalogue our latest moisturizer Hydra 24+ Essence for the winter listing starting October 1st. We are also addressing the business of amenities through licencing partnerships both in the airline and hotel sector. They are very dynamic segments driven by goodies, novelties, instant attractiveness - a new category for PAYOT, leveraging the visibility of the Brand.
It also met its target by fulfilling women expectations in their search for a simple, lifestyle “slow age” routine. Thanks to its galenic innovation (transforming textures) and its original transparent blue glass jar, we also achieved an unprecedent exposure on social networks both on the domestic market and internationally.
EM: In 2019 what are your novelties? MLSB: “SUNNY” a brand-new sun care range has attracted and surprised consumers with a playful and coaching approach of the tanning experience (preparing, protecting, prolonging). Safety, performance, tolerance and environmental concerns were obviously our key priorities.
EM: Last year you had a major launch: “BLUE TECHNI LISS”. How has the market reacted? MLSB: The launch is a complete success, double digit growth on our anti-aging segment in 2018! Duty Free Moscow, Russia
20
INTERVIEW
Hence, we wanted to combine a positive attitude towards sun exposure with colourful, “instagramable” packaging and generous, sensorial textures. This lifestyle approach that invites to enjoy outdoor activities has seduced a lot of millennials in France and abroad. The line was launched in January and exceeded our budget expectations by more than 20 %. “L’AUTHENTIQUE” a masterpiece resulting from several years of research. Universal and transgenerational, this regenerating gold care targets the new segment of “well-ageing”. An innovative formulation with stem cells of Saponaria eco-sourced in the French Alps and introducing 24K pure gold microparticles. Gold reveals an incomparable glow but also boosts cellular
defenses, strengths the skin leaving it more resistant to external aggressions. It suits all skin types and is becoming the secret weapon off women looking for gorgeous skin. Each glass bottle and packaging is home-made decorated with gold leaves design delicately applied by hand in France. It is the PAYOT’s team tribute to a daring founder Dr. Nadia Payot. We truly believe that she could have created and loved such an exceptional facial care. EM: Will you be launching any new products at the Tax-free show in Cannes? MLSB: We will showcase the products we’ve launched beginning of 2019 as well as our latest novelty revealed in September in France: “ROSELIFT COLLAGENE”.
A new firmness range focusing on the remodelling of the face, available by November in 90% of our 70 markets worldwide. PAYOT is promoting a positive attitude towards ageing in the line of the “slow-age” segment. Though most woman over 45 are concerned by the loss of firmness they are also in peace with their age. They expect, efficient, fast-active and innovative care with strong and understandable scientific background that would make no compromise with sensory qualities. “ROSELIFT COLLAGENE” – a line of 5 products (serum, day care, night care, eye contour and eye patch) - capitalizes on the softness of the Rose (the queen of French herbalism) and the cutting-edge technology of a collagen-boosting peptide. This “Rosactive” complex revives the cells, boosts collagen production and acts as a densifying agent. A pink treat! We launch alongside the products a “face roller” to maximize the results and prolong at home the PAYOT experience. Feel better and firmer practicing twice daily 6 specific movements developed by in house facial fitness experts. This “fun and easy to use” tool lets the consumer model the slackening of her eyelids, the oval of her face and all the muscles that support the facial density. This face roller is also another milestone in PAYOT’s commitment to “Beauty in Motion” and a hint to Dr. Nadia Payot who invented facial gymnastics, created the 42 steps massage and supported the Beauticians expertise. EM: What do you think of the fact that communication increasingly addresses Millennials?
MLSB: The omnichannel model has shifted the traditional media communication into 360° media plans activating more touch points with the Millennials. PAYOT for almost a century speaks to all generations and intend to maintain a smart balance between traditional and digital communication.
Our mythical product “PÂTE GRISE” (1947) and our best-selling line “MY PAYOT” (since 2012) are historical treasures contributing to an authentic and competitive offer to the youngers. These Franchise will play an important role in our 2020 action plan promoting PAYOT’s one-hundred-year anniversary with ongoing surprises and local celebration with our partners.
C.S.
21
LAUNCH
NAJ OLEARI SPACE ATTRACTION the new f/w collection inspired by infinity
The new make-up collection is a futuristic journey to explore a unique and extraordinary universe Space Attraction is the new make-up collection by Naj Oleari for the coming Fall/Winter season, inspired by outer space, the galaxies, the constellations and the infinite. It is a futuristic journey to explore an unknown and parallel reality, a collection to travel through space and time to reach a unique and extraordinary universe. Outer space with its star systems, unexplored planets and perennial ice generate a force that attracts us to know and discover the unknown and overcome our limits. The aim is to capture the light to channel it and be resplendent and transmit your own energy. In fashion and design, the outer space theme appears in geometric shapes, metallic colours,
22
technical and reflecting fabrics, while in make-up it is translated into radiant skin, eyes framed by iridescent colours and glossy lips, face powders with a silky touch that refract the light for a sculpted look, eye shadows with a foil effect, pearly and matte for crystallized effects and cool shades warmed by a hint of gold for a 3D effect and vinyl-effect lips complete the look. The Space Attraction packaging is also characterized by a special and innovative technology of metallization, with several stages of work necessary to create the “ice” effect. This “cracked ice” effect takes advantage of silver and mirrored facets, perfectly conveying the mood and the theme of outer space thanks to the facets and iridescent reflections generated by the light. The effect is present on both the primary and secondary packaging.
The products Following the beauty trends of the moment, the cult-products are masks and urban detox (or anti-pollution) products. Masks have an intensive action as they contain a higher percentage of active ingredients and offer an opportunity for pampering, as well as ensuring long-term action but also an immediate sensation of freshness and well-being. Urban detox products are increasingly popular to protect the skin from city pollution, which consumes the natural antioxidant defences and alters the natural cycle of collagen and elastin production, causing the formation of wrinkles and giving the complexion a greyish hue. The Glow & Detox Peel Off Mask is ideal to remove impurities and improve the appearance of tired skin.
LAUNCH
EUROITALIA AWARDS A SPECIAL PRIZE AT THE VENICE FILM FESTIVAL On Sunday 1st September, EuroItalia awarded a special prize for beauty and excellence to the actresses Valentina Lodovini and Silvia Hoeks, through its proprietary brand Naj Oleari beauty. The award, part of the 5th edition of Filming Italy Best Movie Award, was given during an exciting evening in the Hotel Excelsior of the Venice Lido. A number of leading Italian and international actors and actresses were present, including Isabelle Huppert,
Terry Gillliam, Alessandro Gassman and many others. Davide Sgariboldi, General Manager of EuroItalia expressed the companies’ pride at paying tribute to femininity and excellence. “It is an honour for our company EuroItalia and for the Naj Oleari Beauty brand to be a partner of this splendid project in a special Italian context of international significance. It is a perfect opportunity to award a prize which celebrates Italian make-up in the world, female beauty and excellence. Naj Oleari Beauty had a beauty corner at the Hotel Excelsior at Venice Lido until 4th September.”
It has a two-in-one action: on the one hand it traps dead cells and toxins and removes them with a mechanical action and, on the other hand, thanks to the active ingredients such as green tea, peony water and panthenol, it re-establishes the balances of the skin and creates a barrier protecting it from environmental stress. Freed from pollution, the skin immediately looks fresher and more radiant. Space Attraction Highlighter has a soft texture which melts into the skin, revealing its radiance without a powdery effect. As blendable and light as a powder and as silky as a cream, it is buildable, so that a natural glow effect can be created for the day or a super intense finish for the evening. It comes in a universal shade that exalts every complexion. Space Attraction Blush is a natural glow effect powder blush that instantly lights up the complexion with its iridescent effects. Made using an exclusive technology that has the blendability and lightness of powder textures and the silkiness and adherence of creams, it offers a second skin effect. Supernova Eye Pencil is perfect for longlasting radiant eyes. The soft pencil outlines the eyes with intense and deep colour, with four shades to choose from. The formula contained sophisticated pearls giving exquisite luminosity, perfect for both day and evening wear. Dazzling Star Eyeshadow Palette contains nine powder eye shadows with different finishes: pearly, matte and satin. With a texture that is soft and velvety to the touch, the colours blend in easily and last all day long. Star Gleam Lip lacquer is ultra glossy with a vinyl effect. Enriched with mango butter, the formula leaves lips full and luminous, without being sticky. The collection is completed by the Eye Duo Brush, a two-ended brush to apply eye shadow, with a sponge at one end and a pointed tip at the other, to create impeccable looks.
23
LAUNCH
IMPERIAL EMERALD
the new fragrance by the Merchant of Venice
The Murano Exclusive Collection is the encounter of the greatest Venetian craftsmanship and the most refined fragrances created by master perfumers. The latest fragrance to be part of this collection is the new and seductive Imperial Emerald, inspired by the peacock, the most enchanting and majestic of creatures.
A new fragrance joins the Murano Exclusive Collection
For thousands of years, this bird has inspired myths and legends in all cultures, attributing the most sublime meanings to it: beauty, longevity and love, along with vanity, luxury and pride. The dazzling, visual displays created by its fan-like tail have enchanted and confused the gaze of mortals, as well as the immortals of countless myths. The emerald-green and blue patterns have inspired The Merchant of Venice in the creation of this new olfactory masterpiece. Distinguished by olfactory refinement and a high content of essential oils,
24
the Murano Exclusive line generates a long-lasting scented trail. The top notes are joyful, with splendid modern citrus faceting the fragrance from the top to the drydown as a caressing shiver to accompany an orris poudré and pink pepper in a passionate crescendo. In the middle a lover tremor, ylang ylang and opulent rose absolute Chile, is joined by a marvellous bouquet of shimmering lily of the valley with all the magnificence of night-blooming jasmine, tuberose and orange blossom. The drydown is warm and rich with white amber and
precious benzoin passionately embraced in a seductive dance. Creamy vanilla and the most enveloping musks accompany an innovative patchouli for an unforgettable long-lasting trail, of a woman who leaves her mark and is, like her Imperial Emerald, forever. The other fragrances in the Murano Exclusive Collection are Craquelè, Arabesque, Liberty, Vinegia, Rococò and Fenicia. Each one is characterized by a high concentration of fragrance, each with its own olfactory signature expertly crafted: the floral and oriental heart notes give a unique, refined and definite character to each creation.
TFWA Cannes Red V il lage M30
THE ME RCHAN TO FV E NICE. COM
The largest international trade fair for beauty products, hair, fragrances and wellbeing in the Middle East
31 May – 2 June, 2020 Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Secure your space now!
Tel: +971 4 389 45 00 beautyworld@uae.messefrankfurt.com www.beautyworldME.com
1
LAUNCH
ROCKFORD WILDBLACK a fragrance for a bold young man The new Rockford fragrance is full of character and sensuality
Launched in 1984, the Rockford brand was one of the first lines of men’s perfumery created with a concept for a man with a strong style. Its immediate success led Rockford to become the best-selling men’s fragrance in Italy for several years. The distinctive characteristics of the range and the bear logo convey positive emotions: a strong personality, an outgoing, lively and sociable character, masculine with a tender side at the same time. Eurocosmesi, which holds the worldwide licence for Rockford, relaunched it in 2008 on the perfumery market with a new image and more modern and passionate character and a new range of contemporary, attractive and original fragrances.
28
WildBlack, the new fragrance WildBlack, the new Rockford fragrance, has been conceived for a bold and magnetic young man. Its balanced composition, which in the liveliness and sparkling notes of citrus and aromatic tones, turns on woody scents, is for a man with a mysterious and irresistible charm.
The fragrance opens with the freshness of the citrus notes of Grapefruit and Bergamot, seasoned by spicy hints of Ginger and the herby vigour of Thyme. The central notes are spicy and seductive, with Cinnamon and Incense but also fresh with Apple and Artemisia, in a perfect balance between dream and reality. The olfactory journey ends with oriental scents of Amber, Patchouli and Vetiver, and the bold notes of Leather, in a combination of enveloping and intoxicating sensations that liberate the senses. The result is an indomitable, oriental, torrid and wild fragrance. The fragrance comes is an elegant glass bottle, coloured total matte black, with clean and elegant lines. Its trapezoidal shape reflects its modernity and boldness. Rockford WildBlack is an Eau de Toilette (100ml), an After Shave (100ml) and a Deo Spray (150 ml).
LAUNCH
LUCIANO the enchantment SOPRANI of youth in a new fragrance The Luciano Soprani fragrances, distributed with a worldwide licence by Eurocosmesi, reflect the fashions of the brand’s founder, one of Italy’s iconic designers, famous for his tailored, colourful men’s suits and silk gowns for women. Although the designer died in 1999, the brand has continued his legacy in the same spirit and with the same attention paid to details and image.
Jolie Princess captures the essence of a modern and independent young woman
C
M
Y
Jolie Princess: a fragrance for today’s young women The new fragrance by Luciano Soprani is bohemian-inspired and captures the essence of a modern and independent young woman whose soul is refined and elegant. Hers is a cheerful face, ready to take on the world with a smile, a lively spirit, a romantic soul and full of dreams. With chypre, floral and fruity scents, the top notes of Jolie Princess are lively and fresh with Bergamot and Mandarin, completed by a spicy touch of Pink Pepper, then going on to reveal a floral heart that celebrates all the facets of rose and iris, sweetened on the finish by the scent of plum. Like a daydream, there is all the enchantment of a rich background with warm powdery notes that together with patchouli and vetiver give structure to the fragrance, with a drydown of sensual musk.
30
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
The fragrance comes in a glass bottle with sleek and simple lines, authentic in its transparency and pays tribute to a young and spontaneous femininity. The packaging contains a pure femininity that is about to blossom. In just a few strokes of a pen, a female silhouette wearing a romantic floaty gown, recalling the maestro’s designs, embodies the youthfulness of the fragrance. The colours are fresh and light, but enriched with pastel-coloured elements that convey its romantic heart. Jolie Princess Eau de Parfum is available in two sizes, 75ml and 30ml.
j op lr iin ec e s s E au De Par fu m
VIS IT US AT T FWA CA NNE S R IVIE R A V I LL AG E - R C 9
company
DIVAGE 2019 was a year of transition for Divage, with the company engaged in implementing a new Italian commercial strategy, planned by looking at the important goals reached abroad, without forgetting the peculiarity of a market governed by dynamics all of its own. The new line of development is significantly expanding the number of perfumeries that are clients of the brand and has already achieved the important result of the signature of an agreement for distribution in 20 OVS stores in the most important Italian cities.
The DIVAGE brand reaps the first fruits of its new commercial strategy, driven by the development of export which is opening up to new interesting markets The tactic triggered off by this major change has seen new and particular marketing and communication activities, in the first place that of product placement in the feature film 3 + (1) Giorni per Innamorarsi, where Divage is the exclusive beauty presence and for the first time puts itself to the test with the world of the cinema. The partnership has been designed with the aim of giving the products a central role and highlighted by the actors in the scene.
32
conquering new international markets
A very targeted presence is supported by a plan of launches offering new products with short deadlines, to meet the needs of consumers who are increasingly educated and active. The best performing new entries in 2019 are: Make Up Remover Pen, the innovative make-up remover pen to correct make-up mistakes and smudges. Thanks to the practical packaging, which comes with three spare tips, make-up can be removed or corrected accurately and safely both during application and at the last minute during the day. Perfect Touch, the loose powder available in 3 shades which perfects and fixes the make-up base. Applied on top of foundation, it makes it last much longer, without altering the shade and minimizing imperfections. Its innovative formula offers a velvety matte finish, fighting shiny skin and leaving the complexion naturally radiant. Brow Styler Tattoo, the pen for brows with a tattoo effect – in three shades, blonde, brown and dark brown – which ensures impeccable definition thanks to the triple tip. The angulation of the shaped trident tip balances out irregularities of the brows, filling them in extremely naturally.
With respect to the past, the new products add an appeal with a strong international connotation, key to the great export success of the brand which has focused on an offer of indisputable Italian quality, capable of satisfying the needs of widely different targets. To date, Divage, which can boast of more than 350 references at global level, has successfully conquered Europe (France, Spain, England, the Netherlands – where it is present in the Etos chains, one of the country’s most important drugstores Serbia, Malta, Turkey, Turkish Cyprus), the Middle East (Saudi Arabia, the United Arab Emirates, Lebanon, Palestine, Jordan and Egypt), South East Asia (Vietnam), East Asia (China), West Africa (Ghana) and Central America (Mexico, Cuba).
www.divage.com www
G E I S H A B R O W S C O L L E C T I O N
CREMA GEL SOPRACCIGLIA
MARKER SOPRACCIGLIA
K I T P O LV E R I S O P R A C C I G L I A
MICRO PRECISION PENCIL
Geisha Brows is the eyebrow collection that can raise makeup to a refined ritual between technical and art. Four different products created to follow the steps that will led to the ideal result, impeccable eyebrows: Crema Gel Sopracciglia, Marker Sopracciglia, Kit Polveri Sopracciglia and Micro Precision Pencil.
WWW.ASTRAMAKEUP.COM
C U L T S T I C K W AT E R R E S I S TA N T E Y E S H A D O W
CULTSTICK IS THE STICK EYESHADOW WITH UNIFORM AND BLENDABLE COLOR THAT SUMMARIZES IN EIGHT ESSENTIAL SHADES A COMPLETE RAINBOW OF HUES FOR AN UNFORGETTABLE MAKE-UP LOOK.
WWW.ASTRAMAKEUP.COM
company
ASTRA MAKE-UP Innovation, dynamism and research to always be up-to-date PASSION, QUALITY, AVANT-GARDE ASTRA MAKE-UP ANTICIPATES THE TRENDS AND GIVES NEW EMOTIONS OF BEAUTY
"We pay great attention to the trends of the moment which, with their dynamism, make up a continuous challenge not to love the focus on the movements of the market,� says Lucia Menghella, Managing Director of Astra Make-Up. “Consumers are increasingly aware of the effects and impact of their purchasing choices on the environment and on society: absorbing these needs is an essential requirement in the creation of a cosmetic product."
Simone Settimi and Lucia Menghella
An art, a passion and an emotion which are translated in on-going evolution, this is Astra Make-Up, the brand of cosmetics manufactured and distributed by the Umbrian company Giufra. It is an increasingly international brand, which is winning new markets and a positioning of prestige, thanks not only to the quality of its references but above all to a philosophy focuses on research and innovation, that can thrill the consumer and give an original and distinctive beauty experience.
40
The uniqueness of Astra Make-Up is the dynamism and avant-garde vision with which the present management is today leading the company, with creativity and innovation. The product range is expanding and evolving, capturing and anticipating the trends of the moment, offering the essential must-haves for the daily beauty of every woman. For Fall/Winter 2019 Astra Make-Up will be launching two great product innovations, the Golden Era and Geisha Brows collections. Golden Era is the line that celebrates gold and its immortal appeal, in multifaceted and precious aspects, raising it to the absolute symbol of prosperity and elegance. The crystalline and modernist forms of art deco and the golden sumptuousness of the roaring Twenties merge in a contemporary hymn to the extravagance, to joie de vivre and the euphoria of celebration.
The collection is made up of an eye palette, two new references of Hypnotize Liquid Lipstick and two colours of Lasting Gel Effect. Dedicated to the graceful floating elegance of the famous Kyoto hostesses, Geisha Brows is the eyebrow collection that can raise make-up to a refined ritual balanced between technique and art.
COMPANY
Astra Make-Up closed 2018 with a turnover of euro 12 million (+4% compared to 2017, +20% in the last three years) and a distribution in 3,500 points of sale. The company, founded in 1988 in Todi (Perugia) by the pharmacist Giuliano Settimi, is today managed A precious and strictly outlined precision with instruments inspired by the art of calligraphy of the Far East. Groomed, outlined and thick brows always in order are the essential aspect of impeccable make-up. Four different products developed to perfectly carry out the steps necessary to obtain the ideal result: defined and perfect brows. The aspect that most distinguishes the brand on the market, together with research and innovation, is the quality.
“We are extremely demanding on the content of quality and performance of our products,” says Simone Settimi, General Manager Astra Make-Up – “Proof of this is this fact that 35-40% of our turnover comes from the face area, the most loyalty-creating if the product keeps the promises it has made.” Identifying and selecting the raw materials of the latest generation, to meet the new demands of consumers is at the basis of the creative process of the rigorous and intransigent company team.
by his son Simone and his wife Lucia Menghella, who have taken the philosophy of “affordable luxury” to over 30 countries and is in continuous expansion.
41
INTERVIEW
SA.G GROUP new perfume brands in the dynamic German company’s portfolio
Interview with Thomas goebel, FOUNDER OF SA.G GROUP
I founded this company 10 years ago with just one brand. It fills me with pride to have such a great team with such exciting brands.
Thomas Goebel
EXPORT MAGAZINE: Mr. Goebel – before we start the interview today. What is new for 2020? Thomas Goebel: This year, we are looking forward to the latest news as we continue to expand our international licensing business. I have only been allowed to talk about it recently, but we will develop a fragrance concept in cooperation with Lufthansa. Here we have selected top destinations and translated them into an olfactory experience. In addition to Lufthansa, we will have news from Scotch & Soda in our portfolio. Here we will play on HAWAII and all its facets. EM: Mr. Goebel, what are the main activities of your company and what brought you to the world of perfumery?
42
TG: Our work is built on two pillars. We have a long-standing domestic distribution business. But our focus and the future are in the license business. We look after our brands with passion and are constantly looking to complement our brand portfolio. It is always a great challenge to translate an existing brand-world into a profitable beauty concept. We love and live this product diversification and implement it in all areas from idea through design to production. Someone out there meant well to me and took me to this wonderful industry that has been woven into humanity for centuries. Originally, I come from the watch and jewellery business and one day made a very good decision.
EM: How did the change from distribution on the domestic market, of which you have great know-how, to the acquisition of international licences come about? Do you think that this decision will have a positive influence on the medium-term development of your company? TG: A clear YES. Today it is no longer enough to be strong in its local market.
Nowadays, everyone is connected, and everything is networked. We started with e.g. Scotch & Soda and Dunlop and are very excited about the global response. We are ready for more! EM: How is your structure organized, in Germany and abroad? TG: We maintain a direct contact with each of our customers. Each brand has its own team and a contact person who organizes everything. We accompany our partner from the idea to the placement on the shelf.
SA.G Group & 3 Senses is an independent owner-managed German perfume and beauty products wholesale company with a focus on perfume, beauty and care. With its own structure, it supplies Germany, Austria, Switzerland, the Netherlands, Belgium and Luxembourg and the Middle East with their products. To supply their foreign clients, they work together with competent distribution partners all over the world. The business partners of the SA.G Group & 3 Senses are national and international speciality retailers and their product range is sold by market leaders as well as owner-managed retail stores. Passionate about all their brands, the brands of their partners which are distributed in its regions and of course, the company’s own licensed brands, SA.G Group & 3 Senses’ key factors in its business activities are professional management, functional competence and extraordinary dedication.
INTERVIEW
Internationally, we have gained a very experienced colleague from the industry who is helping to build an export team and find the right global partners. She is also supported by a sales and marketing team from Germany. EM: Which brands do you have under licence? TG: Scotch & Soda, Dunlop, Jette Joop, Engelsrufer, Leonardo, Toni Gard, Kaviar Gauche, Talbot Runhof, Save Brave and Helene Fischer. The cooperation with Lufthansa will be launched in Q2 2020. The brand “Platinum Bar” is our own brand. This is a luxurious niche concept, which is very well presented in selected department stores in Europe and the UAE. EM: What are the strengths of your brands? Is the fact of being ‘made in Germany’ appreciated by international clients, even though the scenario prevalently appears dominated by French, American and Italian companies?
Victor Sanchez, CEO Nils Lorbeer, Brand and Marketing Direc
tor
TG: We have found that if quality, fragrance and concept are right, it can work in all markets. "Leonardo" and "Kaviar Gauche" are e.g. two brands "Made in Germany", which have received a lot of acceptance on, and after the last TFWA. Leonardo is a glass manufacturer and has the award “Brand of the Century” in Germany. The Americans, Mexicans and Japanese appreciate that. EM: Yours is a young and dynamic company with expertise in the
world of perfumery so that each brand has an identity and positioning in the market of its own. You have a rich and variegated portfolio. Do all these factors help you in putting the various lines on to the market? TG: Yes, we are young and dynamic. Maybe that's our big advantage over the big guys. We are fast and our selective brand portfolio allows us to work very closely and personally with our business partners. Every brand is different.
Each brand requires intense preparation to understand and translate. It means with each exchange we learn to do so. EM: What is your ideal business partner like? TG: We appreciate it when a brand owner gives us confidence and gives us the freedom to translate his brand into the world of perfume. We also have a network of highly motivated distribution partners. Again, trust and belief are two of the main pillars. C.S.
43
LAUNCH
SCOTCH & SODA alchemy at work for fragrances that feel classic and new
The two new fragrances from Scotch & Soda draw on the brand`s love of authentic culture combined with its desire to hunt fort he unexpected. This recipe for alchemy has resultated in scents that feel both classic and new at one and the same time.
THE AMSTERDAM-BASED FASHION LABEL LAUNCHES TWO NEW FRAGRANCES FOR MEN AND WOMEN THAT TYPIFY IST ESSENCE In the words of Scotch & Soda’s creative director, Marlou van Engelen, "The new perfumes typify our essence. A love of creating newness with classic elements, of understanding the rules before you can break them. A story that is born of our heritage and from our Amsterdam-born curiosity in the world around us." The fragrances come in heavy-based glass flacons with clean, contemporary lines. The finsh of the flacons is courtesy of a process custom-created fort he brand, resulting in an elegant Handcrafted feet. The women’s scent is pale rose in colour, the men’s has a cognac-gold tint.
The fragrances have been created in collaboration with Robertet Fragrance House. The women’s fragrance comprises base notes of gaiac and sandal wood, top notes of bergamot and lemon with lotus and rose note at its heart. For men, high notes of bergamot, cardamom and tarragon
combined with the warmth of geranium, cashmere wood, nutmeg and vetiver. Tonka beans, musk and vanilla add comfort and softness. Both come in two sizes of 40ml and 90ml and will be distributed through Scotch & Soda’s 150+ monobrand stores and 8000 points of sale worldwide.
Continuing the Journey Scotch & Soda are inspired by the world and curated by Amsterdam. A team of passionate discoverers and collectors, scouring the globe for that painting, poem, vintage piece, ruin, or artefact that sparks our never-ending curiosity. Treasures uncovered on worldly wanders are poured into collections and signature looks that clash eras, classics, places of inspiration, meshing unexpected ingredients. Our boundless curiosity leads us ever onwards, discovering new shores. The south seas inspiration of Spring Summer 2020 has given us two new fragrances reminiscent of these warmer climes of eternal summer.
44
45
LAUNCH
KAVIAR GAUCHE a signature fragrance Kaviar Gauche Couture is a brand that represents modern glamour and is an international high fashion label. It has been founded in year 2004 in Berlin and is famous for the timeless elegance of its bridal
46
couture and cocktail dresses, which VIP & celebrities like to wear on the red carpets around the world. The signature fragrance is re creating the same allure of the couture, modern and sophisticated. With a rich and precious mix of white flowers the fragrance makes you enter a world of dream and romance. The woman who wears Kaviar Gauche is also a sophisticated woman, who likes exclusive creations and true beauty. The bottle design with a rose shaped metal cap stands out for its beauty and preciousness. A white silk ribbon around the bottle neck adds the final touch of modern sophistication that is revealed in every detail of the fragrance.
Johanna KĂźhl and Alexandra RĂśhler
47
P A C K A G I N G
&
M A K E - U P
S C E N TS O F T H E W O R L D EAU DESTINATION FOR HIM & HER
company
ACCA KAPPA celebrating beauty since 1869 The well-known Italian company was started in the Italian town of Treviso, in Viale Luzzatti 21, by Hermann Krüll, who gave his name (in the initials) to his company. All the passion, art and discreet luxury that Hermann put into his “Premiata Fabbrica Spazzole Trevigiana”, with great respect for nature and its elements, continue today with Elisa Gera, Hermann’s great-granddaughter at the head of the company.
One hundred and fifty years of a company – but also of a concept of beauty Acca Kappa creations – brushes, fragrances and home fragrances, products for hair and body care, toothbrushes and toothpastes, continue to represent the state of the art of the best Italian craftsmanship. To celebrate this century and a half, two new products pay tribute to the past and to openness to the future, in the association of innovation and tradition, technologies and expert craftsmanship
which has always characterized Acca Kappa: a brush and a fragrance in a special edition. The brush is once again a gem of woodworking: the handle is made from Italian walnut, oiled and crafted by hand, with natural bristles or wooden hornbeam bristles, made in only 750 pieces, in the design of the sleek shape inspired by the symbol of infinity. From 1869 to eternity.
The fragrance, MyScent 150, the olfactory signature of Elisa Gera Krull, has been created Elisa Gera, Acca Kappa CEO
on her personality: an intense and particular bouquet which opens with sparkling bergamot on notes of incense and iris which dissolve
Tradition, refinement, attention to detail and materials, love and dedication to beauty and well-being have conquered the world. Acca Kappa has boutiques and corners in cities from Milan to Hong Kong, from Berlin to Tokyo and from Moscow to Taipei.
50
in the warmth of vetiver, vanilla, benzoin and amber. It is seductive in its transparent glass bottle, distinguished by a simple label with a white background and a silver cap which exalts the transparency of the perfume.
LAUNCH
Ducati
Diamond International and Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A., don’t change a winning team
“1926” is the year the well-known Bologna-based motorcycle company was founded, and identifies the new line for men, consisting of Eau de Toilette, shower gel and deodorant spray. A fragrance capable to evoking emotion, passion and character, but also style and elegance, just like the Red motorbikes of Borgo Panigale.
Fresh, dynamic and enveloping: three adjectives to describe the men’s fragrance, Ducati Sport. These adjectives also define the modern, sporty man in search of adrenaline who finds his expression in this brand new line made up of three references: Eau de Toilette, Shower Gel and Deodorant Spray. Ducati Sport speaks to a public that loves and cultivates its passions, who experience them in the first person, expressing their being “dynamic and sporty.” The fragrance opens with the fresh notes of bergamot, lavender and rosemary, which give an energizing touch. The heart is enveloping and is the result of a clever mix of geranium, sandalwood and violet leaves, to give body and structure. The base is delicate with notes of amber, patchouli and vanilla. Ducati Sport is the right balance between oriental, fougère and woody aromas.
The fragrance opens with bold aromatic accents, contrasted by the effervescent freshness of mandarin and the tangy touches of bergamot. Classicism in renewed in the heart and tasty notes of cocoa sensually dress the timeless elegance of lavender accompanied by the strictness of geranium. In the base, functionality and aesthetic meet with the majestic force of cedar and the intense notes of amber which, enveloped by vanilla and tonka bean, make the fragrance comfortable. The latest arrival, Ducati “Ice” is a youthful and light fragrance, characterized by outstanding citrus, aromatic and woody notes. The name immediately recalls its fresh, enveloping trail, with an olfactory impact that does not go unnoticed in all the three products in the line: Eau de Toilette, Shower Gel and Deodorant Spray. White and red are the colours of “Ice”, purity and strength, paint the image of a passionate brand, capable of thrilling and making one dream. Thanks to its top notes of lemon, bergamot and mandarin which are almost tingling but which merge in perfect harmony
52
“1926” “SPORT” and “ICE” are the names of the three lines created from the licence agreement between Diamond International and Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A., two Italian companies which share values such as excellence, style and challenge. with the heart notes of lavender, geranium and sage to close and find the perfect expression with the base notes of cedar, vetiver and musk.
Diamond International, in a very short time, has been able to carve out an important role in masstige thanks to important partnerships in the worlds of fashion, lifestyle and sport. The licence projects – created in close collaboration between an excellent marketing team and R & D and the Sales area - have the objective of offering a high quality product, made with excellent and innovative formulations and with attention paid to every detail: from the fragrance, to the packaging and the texture, the values and the style of the brand relive in the products. The brands under licence are Ducati, Gattinoni, Juventus, Henry Cotton’s, New York Yankees and others. www.diamondfragrances.it
LAUNCH
Diamond International focuses on fashion Made in Italy with
GATTINONI
It is a strong combination, that of fashion and fragrance that Diamond International has been able to create thanks to the collaboration with the long-established Gattinoni fashion house. Blue is elegant. Blue is intense. Blue is the sea, the sky and the sense of infinity. Blue is the star colour of Nota Blu. A fragrance that evokes marine landscapes, the waves of the sea caressing the skin, simple but intense. Enveloping with its fruity. Citrus and floral notes. Mango and orange – sensual and warm – are the top notes while rose and jasmine – as elegant and refined as the Italian fashion house – merge into the heart notes. Cedar wood, musk and ambergris close the base notes.
Two lines of fragrance – NOTA BLU and ARMONIA – are the result of the encounter between two Italian companies that share the same care in the selection of materials, the passion for quality and the attention to an increasingly demanding public. “Armonia” is a journey in pink that starts from the freshness of bergamot and freesia to reach the warm sweetness of vanilla and tonka bean. The floral and woody notes make all the references in the line unmistakable, conceived for a contemporary woman, who loves exclusivity and is gentle but decisive. The aesthetic of the line, on the notes of pink and black, recalls the values of the fashion house, sophisticated simplicity and refined elegance. The Eau de Toilette with notes of rose and jasmine, is fresh and delicate.
A line of three references, Eau de Parfum, Shower Gel and Body Lotion, which tells the values that have made the Gattinoni fashion house famous all over the world: stylistic research and attention to detail, purity and simplicity of the lines., dreams of dresses that are transformed into reality.
The Shower Gel, delicate and with floral notes, gives a soft caress in the shower, leaving the skin smooth and silky. The Body Lotion helps moisturize the skin in depth and has an emollient action, leaving it soft and smooth.
54
Diamond International, in a very short time, has been able to carve out an important role in masstige thanks to important partnerships in the worlds of fashion, lifestyle and sport. The licence projects – created in close collaboration between an excellent marketing team and R & D and the Sales area - have the objective of offering a high quality product, made with excellent and innovative formulations and with attention paid to every detail: from the fragrance, to the packaging and the texture, the values and the style of the brand relive in the products. The brands under licence are Ducati, Gattinoni, Juventus, Henry Cotton’s, New York Yankees and others. www.diamondfragrances.it
LAUNCH
We believe in outsiders, whoever they are: bold, irreverent, unconventional women, multifaceted beauty addicts who know how to live with consciousness, at every moment of their lives. A passion for colour and dynamism in anticipating and creating trends have always been the heart of the brand. The ability to develop versatile and multitasking products, the intimate knowledge of technology associated with a great dose of creativity are the essence of our work, the engine that drives us every day to overcome the limits of cosmetics that have already experienced it all. We are currently working on the concept of metamorphosis by developing self-adaptive products, that can change colour intensity according to the skin-type. We have achieved unique chameleonic products that completely change the previous approach of colour development. One of the most representative products of this trend is "NUDA lip color enhancer". A sumptuous lip stylo that enhances the natural lip colour with delicate pink reflections that change from natural pink to intense rose, depending on the individual pH of the lips. Lip products are the growing category because, compared to other products, they are the easiest to apply, requiring less expertise in application, yet they can achieve an immediate result in boosting the complexion. More importantly, consumers often tend to purchase new lip products, taking the opportunity to collect different colours to mix and match.
56
NOUBA the future advances
and it’s tomorrow now For this reason, Millebaci, one of the precursors of liquid lip colours with a matte finish in the worldwide market, is constantly evolving as well: a storm of new unconventional colours, astonishing finishes and effects will arrive this season. Millebaci truly represents a new generation of multitasking products with a HD liquid texture, suitable both for lips and for eyes. Another example of the versatile and smart product concept is Ten Hours Sleep, an a-gender wet & dry foundation, with a special hybrid texture that melts on the skin, giving the face the rested and refreshed effect of a good night’s sleep. Boundaries are made to be overcome, both from the point of view of the new technologies of the cosmetic industry and from the point of view of the distribution strategies of the company, which is pursuing future growth in the Far East. One of the new challenges sees Nouba entering the Chinese market, which is a unique opportunity for the brand. In order to be performing on the Chinese market, it is not just necessary to have a local strategic partner, but it is fundamental to have thorough and in-depth
knowledge of the culture and the needs of the consumers, in terms of product performance and adequate service. This makes us open our mind to new particular needs, driving research and development towards extraordinary new products. As a matter of fact, colour is not the starting point for successful make-up in China, it is the logical consequence of a particular performance choice. The products must be able to perfectly satisfy antithetical characteristics such as comfort, a lasting effect and perfect coverage. In terms of commercial distribution, we are currently present in more than 400 stores in China, with the goal of reaching 2.000 shops by the end of next year. 2020 will be an important year for Nouba: we are aware of how the digital-era impact has changed sales dynamics, driving and influencing the purchase of products, so we will increase and focus our marketing investments on digital and on-line communication in order to reach "connected people" all over the world, by constantly supporting them with customized services. Our cosmetic journey has only just begun.
57
INTERVIEW
PAGLIERI FELCE AZZURRA a steady growth for the well-known Italian brand AB: Of course, in the intention of attracting new consumers as well, with modern and even avant-garde fragrances. We do not only want to be a product of nostalgia, but a contemporary offer that is very appealing to the new generations as well.
INTERVIEW WITH ANDREA BASTONI, General Manager EXPORT MAGAZINE: Paglieri is a company representing the Italian tradition and excellence in the personal care sector, to which the category of detergents and home care products were later added. How has it evolved in recent years? ANDREA BASTONI: Paglieri has a DNA of perfumery which over the years has extended from the categories of personal care towards home care. It has definitely a very strong recognisability at the level of olfactory tradition, and it aims to use this positioning regarding its future development, for both the Italian and the Export markets. We are making this journey with excellent results and the market shares show it on all those markets that we have defined strategic, from shower products to fabric softeners. There are other market categories that we are observing with lesser interest.
58
EM: The subject of “fragrance” is an important asset for Paglieri; it is what makes the difference… AB: Absolutely. This tradition of ours aims to be a thread running through all the markets where the fragrance is important for the purposes of the quality of the product and its recognisability by consumers. We are particularly attracted by those markets where pleasantness and perception are important elements and not only the functional performance of the product. Our vision coincides with that of our clients: to offer products that improve, through their fragrance, inspire the quality of life of those who use them. The classic Felce Azzurra, with its fougère notes and top secret formula, is a timeless favourite. EM: Over the years, have you extended your ‘iconic’ brand with other fragrances, to meet different modern requirements?
EM: Can Paglieri be considered a brand for the family? AB: When we develop the fragrances, we always bear in mind the family context; this does not mean that at times we push on more specific segmentations; for example, one of the fragrances, with cherry blossom, is aimed at a female public; other fragrances can be considered unisex. EM: One of the subjects that most interests the beauty industry is the respect for the environment. What is your position on this? AB: For us it is important to make choices of social responsibility. We begin from the conception to go on to engineering the product; through the internationalization of fabric softeners, we have taken about 2000 lorries off the road, with a great saving of CO2. The same goes for having brought to Alessandria other production blocks. As far as the development of our formulas is concerned, as well as being respectful of
legislation, we are careful in selecting the raw materials for our fragrances, which we submit to strict testing to guarantee the safety of our products, in the respect of the environment. In this spirit, we have explored the organic area, launching the Felce Azzurra Bio line, shower/bath products, soaps, personal hygiene products and products for the hands. They contain truly organic ingredients and we can claim it at the 98.8% on the label. This line has high valued features, and obviously it is positioned at a higher price level than our other products. Our plastics are recyclable, and we reduced the packaging as much as possible. We have not yet decided to use recycled plastic, due to possible interferences with our fragrances, since we are very sensitive to this topic. EM: Is the Mass Market Paglieri’s Core Business? Does it remain its focus? AB: Of course, we are also offering the latest organic line in the channels that we dominate very well. It is a high-end product very appreciated by many distributors who are creating dedicated areas to these concepts. We started in the mass market and we have developed in time, and this remains our primary sector.
INTERVIEW
Like all other brands, we have an online presence through the sites of distributors and on some e-commerce sites. EM: Are you satisfied with your turnover, in Italy and abroad? AB: This year we ought to achieve the record turnover of all times, reaching approximately euro 135 million, with a growth of 4% in Italy and 20% abroad. EM: What has been done in these years to reach these positive results? AB: We have worked on our product offer, capitalizing on the features of the Felce Azzurra brand. We have invested in distribution, expanding the presence of the product and in communication. We have implemented our industrial infrastructures
to make our production more efficient. Our approach to the trade has changed; we want our partners to show off the brand to its best and help us to transfer to the consumer the real essence of the product. We have started reorganizing the portfolio, where some lines have been minimized or discontinued, and others added. It is an on-going process of relaunching the company which, now in its third year, is taking shape according to the targets we set ourselves. EM: What will be the next step? AB: There are two: to make a cultural change in-house to reach excellence from every point of view: we are working all-round in this direction, with a real obsession for quality; this is also what our stakeholders want.
The second step concerns the international sector, which today for us represent 11% of our turnover, but which we intend to develop, carefully choosing the markets to explore as priorities. If it is true that the “meadows” to graze in at the level of potential markets are infinite, it is equally true that the whole world cannot be conquered in a short time, especially because it is our intention to identify reliable partners and who are long-term partners. EM: Compared to the multinational groups, what are your strong points? AB: The Paglieri family was precursor of a certain type of marketing, succeeding in creating a unique product, both at chromatic
us in various initiatives all over the world in the next five years.
INTERVIEW WITH Marco Milazzo, International Business Director EXPORT MAGAZINE: You joined Paglieri a few months ago. We know that the company has been present for some years on several international markets, with considerable success. What will your future strategy be based on?
MARCO MILAZZO: Our goal is to consolidate the areas where we have been historically present with significant market shares and expand towards the main European and APAC markets. We are currently developing a long-term plan that will engage
EM: Do you think that a long-established brand such as Felce Azzurra has a high potential on markets where it is not yet present? Which zones and for what reason? MM: Felce Azzurra is a long-established brand, older even than the Republic of Italy! I would say that considering it the quintessence of Italian personal care is correct. Being so strongly “made in Italy” allows us to have an appeal that is difficult for other brands to replicate. Our fragrances have distinctive characteristics, which let us be recognized immediately; in addition, our packaging has a considerable impact on shelves! The typical grooved patterns on our products is something distinctive and I personally consider it like a pinstripe tailored suit.
and three-D level; our grooved packaging in the characteristic light blue colour is iconic, as is the fragrance, the olfactory complexity of which, together with the consistency of the product, makes it a completely original product. This wonderful intuition has allowed Felce Azzurra to grow and to emerge on the world scene. The other advantage we have is the fast decision-making. As our dimension is smaller than multinationals, with headquarters in Alessandria, we are able to make decisions more quickly. On the basis of my professional experience in multinational groups, I am sure that the principles of the large international companies can be applied, adapting them to the dimensions of a company such as Paglieri. And this is what we are doing.
C.S.
EM: Compared to competitors, above all multinational groups, what is your winning answer? MM: We have a long tradition in developing fragrances which will allow us to develop essences in line with the demands of the local markets. Alongside this aspect, strong innovation linked to the development of new categories such as organic, for example, and attention to new trends. EM: Can you define the profile of your ‘ideal distributor’? MM: The ideal distributor is a long-term partner with financial solidity, able to develop a plan that covers the main sales channels in its country. It must be increasingly able to use all the marketing mix levers with a special focus on the respect of the brand equity, agreeing with us the main actions to implement on their market.
C.S.
59
LAUNCH
FELCE AZZURRA BIO a new line formulated to the highest standards And five reasons to choose it!
Long-established Italian brand Felce Azzurra presents a new line of products for personal care made with a very high concentration of natural ingredients. The sage green packaging of the new Felce Azzurra Bio line is restful to look at and immediately conveys the naturalness of the products. With surfactants of natural origin, extracts from organic cultivations and 100% chemical solvent-free natural fragrances, Felce Azzurra Bio products promise to satisfy even the most attentive bio-consumer. The line includes Bath and Shower, Shower Gel, Soap, Liquid Soap and Intimate Wash. Export magazine tested two products of the line. Besides the daily personal care and hygiene gestures, they offer an occasion for regenerating and recharging our batteries, with a hint of magic, thanks to their ingredients and fragrances. We tried the Almond&Coconut Shower Gel and the Aloe Vera&Lemon Bodywash. Super green and natural The products in the new Felce Azzurra Bio line have 98.8% ingredients of natural origin to respect the balance of the skin and give it gentle and effective treatment, without any danger of irritation. The green packaging reflects the naturalness of the ingredients for effective body care and real pampering. Perfect for daily use As well as natural, the Felce Azzurra Bio line products are extremely gentle, making them ideal for daily use
60
and perfect for all types of skin, including the most sensitive. The Bodywash and the Shower Gel are free of petroleum-derived substances, silicones and parabens, making them safe and effective products to treat skin gently, respecting its pH and protecting it. Unexpectedly delightful fragrances The sense of touch is more than satisfied by the texture of the products in the line, but also the sense of smell will be gratified.
The 100% natural fragrances, extracted without the use of chemical solvents, are pleasant and exciting. The Aloe Vera&Lemon Bodywash combines freshness and character in its fragrance for an intense touch, while the Almond&Coconut Shower Gel has an enveloping fragrance of sweet notes, perfect for those who enjoy soft and gentle pampering. The Almond and the Coconut fragrances are skilfully balanced, with neither one overpowering the other, and resulting in a delicate and evocative scent.
Certified products The term “organic� can be over-used and even inappropriately used but the Felce Azzurra Bio line can be trusted: the Bodywash and the Shower Gel have been tested by a certifying body (ICEA), guaranteeing their naturalness, ensuring that the highest standards of organic cosmetics are respected. The products contain surfactants of natural origin, extracts from organic cultivations and 100% natural fragrances, the three fundamental elements which are at the basis of a real organic product, certified Cosmos Organic. Effective combinations The choice of the ingredients is one of the most interesting pluses of the products. Almond &Coconut is a perfect combination for skins that want a soft and silky touch and Aloe Vera&Lemon are ideal to hydrate and refresh. Argan&Honey (Bodywash and Liquid Soap) form an extra nourishing and moisturizing combination; Mallow&Camomile (Intimate Wash) are gentle and soothing; Aloe Vera&Green Tea (Intimate Wash) are refreshing and gentle and Green Tea&Ginger (Shower Gel) combine the antioxidant properties of Green Tea and the purifying properties of Ginger.
Visit us at TFWA CANNES 1-4 Oct 2019 YELLOW VILLAGE - E41
0% WATER 100% TEA INFUSION
Teaology is a revolutionary clean beauty skincare line, powered by the antioxidant properties of different types of organic teas. A patented technology allows to replaces water with Tea Infusion in every formula to make the product completely active. UP TO 99% OF NATURAL ORIGIN INGREDIENTS - VEGAN AND CRUELTY FREE - DESIGNED AND MADE IN ITALY DERMATOLOGICALLY TESTED CGS S.r.l. - via B. Zucchi, 29 - Monza (Italy) - Tel. +39.039.9000.413 - www.teaologyskincare.com - Contact us at hello@teaologyskincare.com
63
INTERVIEW
TEAOLOGY all the extraordinary benefits
of tea in a indie skincare range PB: Perfectly! Our main ingredient is a plant which for two thousand years has been used as medicine due to its antioxidant power and recently, Harvard University published a study which scientifically proves what was already written in 1191 AD by the Japanese monk Eisai “Tea is a miraculous medicine which has the power to extend life.” In addition, we have a very strict blacklist which excludes from our formulas all controversial ingredients, independently of whether they are natural or synthetic.
EM: Matcha tea has special properties that change depending on various factors. In what direction did your research go? PB: Matcha is really the super ingredient par excellence, its antioxidant power has been proven to be up to 25 times greater than other famous super foods, such as Goji berries or Açai. This is due to the fact that the tea plants are covered for a few weeks before harvesting in order to stimulate the production of chlorophyll and polyphenols.
Interview with Paolo Bevegni, co-founder and Export Manager of Teaology EXPORT MAGAZINE: Teaology is a young brand of skincare with a well-defined DNA. What are the fundamental principles it is based on? PAOLO BEVEGNI: The line is inspired by the extraordinary antioxidant properties of the tea plant. This has been made possible by a patented technology which has let us replace the water in our formulas with the infusions of some of the most precious organic teas in the world, making our products 100% active. More in general, we perfectly reflect the concept of Clean Beauty, i.e. making products that are safe, effective and sustainable.
64
Limiting the impact on the environment is a commitment that we took from the very first day, which is why we use certified paper, from forests managed responsibly, containers and labels of green plastic, with a reduced emission of CO2, 100% recyclable packaging and we have eliminated illustrated leaflets and all the over packaging. These are economically challenging decisions but in which we believe deeply. EM: How are the characteristics of naturalness and functionality combined in a skincare project like yours?
Tea has always been appreciated as a beverage. Now with Teaology, its properties benefit the skin
INTERVIEW
We only use Japanese “Ceremonial Grade� Matcha, which guarantees an optimal concentration of polyphenols,. Vitamins and trace elements EM: Do the texture and the light fragrance of Teaology meet the favour of your consumers? How important is it for a product to be pleasant? PB: The pleasantness of the product is fundamental. We want to create products that are always pleasant to use and that put you in a good mood, also because if you like a product, you use it every day and the results can be seen. The best compliment that we have received is that Teaology creates addiction. EM: You have worked in the cosmetics sector for 20 years, like your wife, each of you with very specific competences, you in export
and Cecilia in creation and marketing. When you decided to become entrepreneurs and create a brand of your own, did you think you would receive
such an immediate positive response? Quality, positioning, authenticity: which if these factors do you think has played most in the marketing mix?
PB: When we started we had no expectations, our objective was to transform our passion for tea and for sustainable cosmetics into something new on the market. Opening 25 countries in less than three years went beyond any expectation, our distribution partners are extraordinary because they have believe in and supported this young indie brand and they continue to boost us to continue and improve because on the properties of tea there is still a great deal to discover. In the meantime, we are trying to return to nature what it offers us. We are particularly proud of supporting the women who grow tea in the Wikilya community in Sri Lanka. With them we have started a project that helps guarantee a better future for their children in economic, social and environmental terms. C.S.
65
company
INIKA
Thanks to the global “green” and “eco-friendly” trend, many people are actively seeking out plant-derived ingredients. Natural makeup options are often chosen for their safe and non-toxic reputation and are also ideal for all skin types, including those with sensitivities. They are also kinder to problematic skin and are less likely
66
the benefits of natural and organic makeup
to cause a reaction. Organic makeup uses natural ingredients that have been grown or farmed in compliance with organic agriculture standards, avoiding synthetically processed ingredients and ensuring products are free of traces of pesticides or fertilisers.
Labelling of beauty products is not strictly regulated however, and misleading claims make it difficult for consumers to distinguish between different brands’ promise. The only guarantee is to look for an official certifier logo to ensure products are compliant. INIKA Organic relies on the highest certifications standards to ensure it delivers the purest and safest formulas.
COMPANY
A testament to the professional quality-level of their range, INIKA Organic was the makeup of choice for 2 runways at the latest Spring-Summer 2019 New York Fashion Week. Lead makeup artist Campbell Ritchie pointed out: “I made the hard decision last year to get rid of every single product in my kit that wasn’t cruelty-free or that was too synthetic. I now only embrace brands that I truly believe in, and INIKA Organic has the perfect range to create [the] regal look [for House of Nonie] show. Every model’s skin was glowing with luminosity and vitality, and all of the girls were saying how much they loved having a natural product on their skin, especially since it created this iconic and glamorous look.”
Being 100% natural and Vegan means the ingredients used in their formulas are either plant-derived or minerals (essentially, water or mineral pigments and powders). Born out of a need to detox makeup kits everywhere and with a dream of a chemical-free world, Inika Organic has become the go-to makeup brand for health-conscious women around the world, with a complete range of products across face, eyes and lips categories.
The certified organic brand is the winner of multiple cosmetic awards and consistently dispels the myth that natural makeup doesn’t perform. The range empowers women everywhere to express themselves through the artistry of makeup, with a range of products that can create both natural and ultra-glamorous looks.
67
INTERVIEW
Interview with Celia Trevisani, INIKA Organic Senior Brand Manager For me personally I am very passionate about clean living and detoxing our lives, whether it’s the food we eat, or products we use. I feel it’s especially important to detoxify our beauty routines considering how much our skin absorbs.
EXPORT MAGAZINE: Can you tell us how your career began with Inika? CELIA TREVISANI: After 16 years in the beauty industry, I began to look for new ways to bring meaning to my career. When the opportunity at INIKA Organic came up, i felt like it was a sign! Working for a brand that has such a strong ethical commitment to produce the highest certified organic products possible was exactly what I was looking for! That was almost three years ago and I have never been more motivated! EM: What attracts you to the brand? CT: When I discovered INIKA Organic, the values of the brand immediately resonated with me. INIKA’s ingredients promise is one of the most restrictive in the market – one of the main reasons other natural products can fall in quality. INIKA never compromises high performance or the best ingredients to create its products, even if it means longer development time or more time on research. The integrity the brand has to keep developing quality natural ingredients and the desire to find new ways and innovative natural ingredients is really unique.
68
EM: Your favourite part of the job? CT: I love that as a brand we keep pushing the boundaries of natural formulations! INIKA Organic is a pioneer, launching the cleanest formulas possible within the highest standards of Organic Certifications. We create products that perform just as well, if not better than others, but without using chemicals or fillers – only botanical or mineral ingredients. EM: What are some of the challenges of being a vegan, organic and cruelty-free brand? CT: The certifications we comply with make formulation more challenging and product development times much longer than other brands. However, when we do launch new products, it’s more exciting and rewarding! When we embarked on the journey to formulate the 1st certified Organic and Vegan lipstick, people in the industry didn’t believe such a product could be achieved. They believed there were too many constraints for it to be compliant and not enough available ingredients. After three years in development, we proved the industry wrong and launched the world’s first Certified Organic and Vegan lipstick! It’s an amazing product with such a unique formula and si now a staple in our range. EM: Where are your ingredients sourced from?
CT: We are a proudly Australianowned and designed brand, but we source our ingredients from all over the world! This is to ensure we always have highest quality grade and the latest innovations in botanical science. We also need to ensure each ingredient complies with the strict standards of our certifiers. In saying this, we will never stop researching the latest innovations in natural ingredients that have the greatest benefits!
EM: Does the brand follow seasonal trends – what can we expect to see coming up? CT: We work closely with the world of fashion and after some very successful runway shoes in 2018 we will be back again this year creating looks at New York Fashion Week! We will also be launching a limited edition seasonal colour range later this year, filled with versatile shades to create a natural everyday glow or the most glamorous evening looks.
EM: The most popular cult product in the range? CT: Our foundations, both Loose Mineral Powder and Liquid Foundation attract a cult-like following. The Liquid Foundation, because it’s enriched with Pomegranate Seed Oil, Kakadu Plum and Prickly Pear – perfect for people with sensitive skin. The Loose Mineral Powder is also a fan favourite as it’s a pure mineral formula, doesn’t clog pores and offers the benefit of an SPF25 - the perfect triple treat foundation! The Long Lash Vegan Mascara has quickly become a best seller and revolutionized the natural make-up space! Even professional make-up artists are blown away when trying it! It’s ultra-lengthening, creates panoramic lashes and gives great volume – the perfect all-rounder!
EM: The brand has won many beauty industry awards – any highlights you can share? CT: We are always so excited when we win awards! We have been winning between 20 and 30o every year from trade professionals, beauty editors and consumers alike, who recognize the outstanding performance of our products. It is a testament that what we do is unique, staying true to the brand’s original values and keeping our ingredients’ promise,. Whilst delivering formulas that actually work.
EM: Are there any plans to extend the brand? CT: We have so many plans in the works! INIKA Organic is a true innovator, so we are always looking to stay on top of trends and continue to provide natural alternatives to chemicalladen formulas. We have exciting re-formulations, shade updates, product launches and collaborations in the works for the next year. Watch this space!
EM: Have you always had an interest in beauty? CT: I grew up a ballet dancer, so yes! My first encounter with makeup was for a performance when I was eight. My Mum taught me how to keep my skin clean and remove makeup properly after performing. As I got older I was able to identify and treat my skin’s needs. I learnt that it’s not about using lots of products or expensive ones, but using products that keep it nourished and hydrated. As for makeup I used to spend hours in beauty stores, trialling, getting advice and have always been fascinated by how makeup can transform you and boost your confidence!
C.S.
LAYLACOSMETICS.IT
THE NAIL POLISH WITH THE EGO OF A GEL NO BASE NO TOP
EXTREME SHINE
AIR DRY
LASTS UP TO 15 DAYS
THE NAIL POLISH WITH THE EGO OF A GEL Layla revolutionises the world of nail products. So far there is nail polish and gel polish but no one has ever thought about the women who wants to achieve the results of a gel without having to go through the whole application process because of the time or the structure of the nail. Layla has conceived a nail polish with the ego of a gel: a product that lasts up to 15 days while maintaining its shine and strength. Nail full of colour with a pulpy effect, super shiny and extra strong. LAYLA 3.0 It is applied as a regular nail polish and it is easily removed with a solvent, without buffer and with no removal time. It protects the nail shielding it from external agents. It does not require base nor top coat because everything you need will be in the Layla 3.0 bottle. According to the test performed the results of the Layla 3.0 application are comparable with the results of a gel polish because the nail is remarkably full-bodied and strong. Layla 3.0: a minimum commitment for a maximum result.
2020 COSMOPROF BOLOGNA, ITALY – FAIR DISTRICT
12 – 15 MARCH
13 – 16 MARCH
A new world for beauty Bologna, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Mumbai
Company of
With the participation of
cosmoprof.com
Organiser BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 F +39 02 795 036 info@cosmoprof.it
In partnership with
INTERVIEW
INTERCOS always a good step ahead…
INTERVIEW WITH DARIO FERRARI, CEO
EXPORT MAGAZINE: It is a great piece of luck to be able to meet you in Milan, between one intercontinental flight and another! You have recently been awarded a special honour by the University of Ferrara that Certificate of Excellence of COSMAST, Master in Cosmetic Science and Technology - at the National Meeting of Cosmetica Italia, the Association of Italian Cosmetics Manufacturers. How did you experience this, was it a moving experience? DARIO FERRARI: Yes, I was very moved, more for my mother (Ed.’s note: Dr. Nadia Avalle, a cosmetologist of international fame, who passed away a few years ago, held several courses on cosmetology at the University of Ferrara during her fifty-year career). However, those who know me well know that in all these years I have remained behind the scenes, not very interested in taking part in public events. It is very hard for me, although representing in a certain sense as Intercos, Italian expertise, to be a great fan of Italy. I see its limits, a weakness in getting Italy to take a step forward.
76
EM: What has to be done to take a step forward? DF: We would have to be present around the world with activities of different types, and have more aggressive ideas. To grow and be part of the future, we also have to go beyond the narrow borders that surround us. All those who have copied our business model – and I am aware of what I am saying – today in some way are growing; ass is well known, the activities, especially as far as make up is concerned, have moved towards Italy, which holds the world record of production for private label. EM: Intercos, Dario Ferrari, is considered by everyone a driver. Most of the Italian companies that manufacture make-up do not hide that if specific collective results have been achieved, it is because you were the first to take Italian knowhow into the world. Can we say that Intercos has grown thanks to the fact of having an Italian DNA? DF: Italian culture is the strongest with us, but with many souls. I am increasingly convinced that it
is not possible to be able to export the Italian DNA to other countries. After years of hard work, I have realized that the Americans are Americans, the Chinese are Chinese and the Koreans are Koreans. If it is true that we bring formulas, technologies etc. etc., it is equally true that the way of applying them, of carrying them forward, is always mitigated by the local culture. This is why, at Cosmoprof Asia in Hong Kong, we will be adopting a completely different strategy. We will offer our companies, limiting us to the most important, the possibility of expressing themselves through their own culture. There will be Europe, China, Korea, the United States. A change of manoeuvre which in my opinion will lead to a positive result; our collaborators, instead of implementing the “policy” of the parent company, will
Dr. Nadia Avalle
be able to express themselves according to the ‘sentiment’ of their own market. Why, for example, try to become the European Americans? If, to date, we have not succeeded in changing all our companies into something that resembles us, there must be a reason.
INTERVIEW
This is why today all our companies in the various countries are different from one another, strongly guided and motivated by the local culture, see China and Korea for example. Naturally, global coordination takes place on our side. EM: Has the world of cosmetics changed? DF: The world of cosmetics has changed and, with a little presumption, I think that we changed it. In the past, the business model was clear; if you wanted to start a cosmetics company, you had to have a factory, an R &D department, a distribution, i.e. a complete organizational structure. Since we came into being, we have given everyone the chance, from structured companies to independents, to conceive and produce a complete line of products, from the concept to the graphics, to the packaging. In time, millions of companies have blossomed, some will remain, many will disappear due to natural selection.
EM: What do you think of the current market situation? DF: It varies from market to market. Speaking about China, the large multinationals are going very well in the category of skincare and for the luxury brands, always the privileged ones on the Asian market in general. The mass market is suffering above all due to reasons of distribution with the arrival of online sales. Europe is moving slowly; as it is broken up because of its different national identities, it is seeing at first hand the epochal changes in progress. It is impressive how in the past six months everything has changed. I don’t want to be pessimistic, however I have to admit that this year is very difficult; let’s look at the United States: make-up, although it is a leading category, is suffering. A crisis in distribution, change of attitudes in purchasing, lack of loyalty, above all by young consumers. We have to understand very quickly the needs of the Millennials, and not with the traditional means, but with the ones they use, the Web etc. We try to interpret their wishes
Photo: Intercos
with our internal resources; we have brought together what is called ‘Intercos Intelligence’, a programme with a very special algorithm that works out all the answers and the data that we receive from our clients. Once the data has been processed, we intercept those 5-10-15 key words that ‘perhaps’ will help us to anticipate the future. EM: Intercos also has an important skincare division… DF: For many years I have tried to stay far away from skincare, because I believe that colour and skincare are two subjects that are culturally separate. For reasons that are now known, with the incorporation of CRB, the Swiss company that came under my mother, I have ended up dealing with it. And I have to say that today I believe fully in it, it is an interesting sector, with different logics from those of make-up, and which gives great satisfaction if approached seriously. We are getting excellent results and Asia, the first market for skincare, appreciates our formulas, our textures, our innovative concepts which come
from our research laboratories all over the world. We have recently added some icing on the cake with the purchase of a company based in Naples that produced active ingredients extracted from plants, obtained with a completely natural process. We have tested and selected about twenty and tried out their efficacy. We have obtained serums that can also be combined together. It is interesting to see how the paths of research are infinite and they can also pass through a botanical laboratory. EM: Are the companies ready for this change? DF: Absolutely not, nobody is ready, not even those who think they have experience. Today, change has to be anticipated; we will have a billion new consumers and only those who are capable of interpreting the needs of this new pool of consumers – essentially from Asia, including China, SouthEast Asia and India – will be the winners. Anticipating the needs of the new consumers will not be easy; they will almost all be Gen Z, born from 1995 onwards.
Photo: Intercos
77
INTERVIEW
Photo: Intercos
We are talking about 34% in India, 27% in China. A China that is turning out a Gen Z with excellent purchasing power: they can speak English, they earn well, they do not spend very much for daily expenses, but a lot on prestigious products. The future is in their hands, they have learned quickly. Let me make a comment on the world of cosmetics, which to us seems so big…L’Oréal has a very respectable turnover, about 25-26 billion; well, Samsung invests 24-25 billion in innovation. Therefore, we still have a long way to go. Cosmetics are complex; you can’t make a product that suits everybody as in other sectors, every time you have to make a specific focus, on the type of market, on the target of consumers. EM: Recently the subject of ‘sustainability’ has taken on considerable importance. Does this also apply to the sector of make-up? DF: It has always been a fundamental subject for us; we have been working for some time on sustainability at the level of formulations without any problem.
Photo: Intercos
We have already been working for 4/5 years on ‘clean beauty’, making cosmetics that respect nature and the environment, without taking anything from the quality of the products. From the industrial point of view, our factories are highly advanced; the newest one, the Korean plant, is, I think, the most modern that exists. All this lets us make the difference. EM: What does it feel like, to be the no. 1? DF: I have never considered myself the no. 1; I have always done my work in the best way possible according to my capacities. EM: Which virtues do you attribute to yourself, if we may ask? DF: The only factor that has helped me grow has been change. I am of the opinion that if we don’t keep changing, we cannot grow. Changing is not easy, and it means that the first to change has to be you. To have the intellectual energy that leads to change, you have to question from morning to night, trying to do everything in a different way. There are three fundamental points: innovation, globalization and change.
Photo: Intercos
Underlying everything there is creativity, we have become innovative and then global from there. Today we have 900 people dedicated to innovation in make-up and I can say that we are the ones that invest the most at international level in this direction. The fact then of being global means that we are present and well known everywhere. EM: This confirms that Intercos, from the beginnings to the present day, has always had
an international approach. DF: Elementary, my dear Watson… Having made this choice right from the beginning, we have made some of our competitors grow, on the Italian market, where some in particular have specialized in some types of product. What can I say, you need competitors, they stimulate you; the important this is always to be one step ahead. I really that that today we are ‘a good step ahead’ with respect to the global situation. Claudia Stagno
78
2019 COSMOPROF ASIA HONG KONG A new world for beauty Bologna, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Mumbai cosmoprof-asia.com
Sales Office Asia Pacific UBM Asia Ltd, Hong Kong P +852 2827 6211 F +852 3749 7345 cosmasia-hk@ubm.com
13 – 15 NOVEMBER 12 – 14 NOVEMBER ASIAWORLD-EXPO HONG KONG CONVENTION&EXHIBITION CENTRE Sales Office Europe, Africa, Middle East, The Americas BolognaFiere S.p.a., Bologna, Italy international@bolognafiere.it For info: P +39 02 796 420 international@cosmoprof.it
Marketing and Promotion BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 F +39 02 795 036 info@cosmoprof.it
Organiser Cosmoprof Asia Ltd
79
INTERVIEW
BEAUTY AND LUXURY Italy’s leading independent distributor approaches the international market INTERVIEW WITH ANTONELLA PANEPINTO – EXPORT MANAGER, BEAUTY AND LUXURY
dedicated Sales Teams: one for the selective market and one for prestige Perfumery (niche perfumery) which together with a training team and the sell-out experts translate our strategies into sales results in perfumeries.
EXPORT MAGAZINE: In just a few years, BEAUTY AND LUXURY has become the largest independent distributor in Italy. What has the winning strategy been to reach this goal? ANTONELLA PANEPINTO: The values of Beauty and Luxury lie in some fundamental points such as a passion for brand building: we transform the international strategies of the brands into local success stories, with the aim of bringing lasting success to the brands we represent, focusing on the image, the visibility and the loyalty of consumers. Being «Trend Scouts» and «Brand Scouts» makes us continuously look for international successes;
80
our mission is to be partners of excellence for the retailers who are looking for brands with enormous potential. A competent and compact team is the heart of our business. More than seventy people, in our offices and in the field, proudly represent our passion. All our collaborators share the same enthusiasm for the world of cosmetics and beauty and can claim a great experience in all the sectors in the selective market of beauty, from fragrances to skincare, from make-up to hair care. To guarantee the best service possible to our partners, we offer two
EM: How many and which brands do you distribute on the Italian market? AP: We have a brand portfolio that covers all the segments and distribution channels Beauty and Luxury can boast of an important portfolio of skincare, make-up and international and luxury fragrance brands, including Abercrombie & Fitch, Chopard, Christian Louboutin, Coach, Desigual, deCure, Elizabeth Arden, Grown Alchemist, Hollister, Institut Karitè Paris, Jimmy Choo, Lanvin, Montblanc, Pepe Jeans Parfums, Van Cleef & Arpels. John Frieda, the latest brand to join the company’s portfolio in July, marks the debut of the company in the hair segment. Its B&L Prestige Perfumery sector already distributes
the following brands of artistic perfumery: Bond No9, Blend Oud, Clive Christian, MiN New York, Moresque, Phuong Dang. Roos & Roos, The Harmonist, Ulrich Lang New York and Vilhelm Parfumerie.
INTERVIEW
EM: In 2019, the company opened an Export Division, which you manage, with the aim of representing some brands for foreign markets. How is the new division structured? AP: For Beauty and Luxury this project represents the start of opening up the business model to international markets and for this reason the company has implemented a dedicated division with figures who are experts in export and promoting the market-oriented DNA of the company. EM: Which are the first brands in your portfolio? AP: On 1st April 2019 Beauty and Luxury signed a contract for international distribution
with Selectiva SpA. Selectiva represents the prestige perfumery company in the Paglieri Group, the long-established Italian entrepreneurial family-run company with over 200 years of history. The Selectiva portfolio is made up of brands of alcoholic perfumery such as Pink Sugar, Notebook, Paglieri 1876 and bath & body products such as Aquolina, which have dominated the trend of cleansing and perfumery in the gourmand sector. EM: Can you tell us about your experience in export? AP: I have matured twenty years of experience in managing international markets in leading companies in the lifestyle
and masstige sector such as Morris Profumi, Perfume Holding and Parlux Usa. Supporting me I have a team of expert, “passionate� and professional figures who are very attached to developing and relaunching the Selectiva brands internationally. EM: Do you take part in trade fairs? AP: We are at TFWA in Cannes at Marine Village R6 and we will also be taking part in the Singapore edition in 2020. EM: You will certainly be adding other brands to your portfolio, are you more oriented
to the alcoholic perfumery sector or also to makeup and skincare? AP: We are not precluding any path at the moment and we are carefully evaluating every opportunity that arises. The new brands, whether they are alcoholic perfumery, make-up or skincare have to have a high potential on international markets and in particular be appealing to millennials and the Z generation and blend in harmoniously with the existing portfolio and with the corporate culture that in the past few years we have succeeded in creating. C.S.
81
With over 30 years of expertise in hair color and care, we connect our clients with their dreams, creating beloved and successful hair and skin care brands thanks to pioneering product concepts, formulas, design and full-service partnerships. We are the partners of more than 120 brands living in 90 countries all over the world and we offer a wealth of 1000 formulas Made in Italy. We distribute 4 own brands both in the professional market and retail: Nouvelle, Silky, Eslabondexx and Guudcure.
VISIT US AT: INTERCHARM Mosca 23rd-26th October COSMOPROF ASIA Hong Kong 13th-15th November
connect yourself with your dreams: hsacosmetics.com - shop.hsacosmetics.com
THE GREAT WHITE HOPE Skin Bleaching dates back to ancient times, confirmed by recent findings from a study of a mummy head from the 18th Dynasty of ancient Egypt. But this beauty ritual comes at a cost. Join BEAUTYSTREAMS’ experts Elisabeth Azoulay and Paulina Szmydke for a look at the past, present, and future of the controversial skin whitening practice.
Legacy of Skin Whitening The mummified head of this young Egyptian woman (see left), embalmed some 3,500 years ago in the necropolis of Thebes, hides a terrible beauty secret. It presents lesions characteristic of ochronosis, a disease caused by hydroquinone, a compound still used as a skin lightening product today. The head, which belonged to a member of the Egyptian high society, aged 20 to 25, was recently the subject of a study led by forensic Egyptologist Despina Moissidou of the National and Kapodistrian University of Athens. We learn that hydroquinone, which inhibits the activity of tyrosinase (the enzyme that controls the synthesis of melanin), was already used by these great
84
chemists of Egyptian antiquity. Moreover, the analysis of the residues of their cosmetics reveals the presence of synthetic compounds some of which, like laurionite and phosgenite, are extremely rare in nature. Hydroquinone, on the other hand, can be easily obtained from natural products such as some fruits, beer (much appreciated by ancient Egyptians), red wine, wheat, coffee, and tea. Extracts from certain plants - including Mitracarpus scaber (madder), Uva ursi (bearberry), Morus bombycis (Japanese mulberry), Morus alba (white mulberry), or Broussonetia papyrifera (paper mulberry) - also contain arbutin, a hydroquinone ß-glucoside which converts into hydroquinone once absorbed by the skin, where it causes havoc.
A look of Whitening’s Past & Present by BEAUTYSTREAMS
History and Psychological Implications his torically, hydroquinone has been just one of many ways to brighten skin. Of a more common use, white lead (opaque white pigment, lead or melted tin-based, and also very toxic) has long been used in treatments and make-up. In China, women applied it to their faces in the form of a paste from 1500 BC, and under the Tang, from 618 to 907, it was fashionable to put it on the breasts, too. A similar gesture was observed in India and Japan, where the faces of women, immaculately white, were expected to look like a mask. Around the Mediterranean and in Europe, white lead has been known since antiquity. Xenophon, Dioscorides, Vitruvius, and Pliny mention its use, and Ovid sold the addresses of women who know how to appropriate the artificial whiteness of white lead. Several centuries later, in France, at the court of the Sun
King, the men and women of the aristocracy cleared their complexion with Spanish white (based on sublimated mercury), pearl white (composed of bismuth and white lead), starch, calcined alum, talc, bone powders, bulbs or other roots. The toxicity of some of these ingredients has been known for some time and doctors since the end of the 18th century have explicitly called for mandatory prescriptions. The sound of alarm bells, however, clashes with the persistence of a hierarchy of complexions that link pale skin to beauty and elitism. This global stereotype is very deeply rooted: since the emergence of agriculture, 10,000 years ago, the fair complexion has established itself as a canon of female beauty. In Egypt, the Middle East, Greece, Rome, China, Japan, India and even Africa, the lighter skin of refined city-dwellers was distinguished from that of peasant women working in the fields.
REPORT
Global Whitening Market Although the use of hydroquinone goes back a long way, its whitening effect has only been scientifically studied since the 30’s in the United States, based on the examination of skin discolorations suffered by workers of AfricanAmerican or Mexican origin, who worked in a tannery near Chicago.
Their problems were caused by the use of rubber gloves containing an additive, agerite alba, which is a mono-benzyl ether of hydroquinone (monobenzone). This (re-)discovery has given rise to a flourishing business over the past few decades. Consequently, in 2027, the global market for skin lightening products is slated to represent more than US$ 24 billion, led by lotions and creams with a value of US$ 8.9 billion, up from about US$ 4.8 billion in 2017, according to a report by Future Market Insights. 77% of Nigerian, 59% of Togolese, 35% of South African, 27% of Senegalese and 25% of Malian women regularly use lightening products, found a study by the United Nations. Sales are not only driven by a rising middle class in these geographies, but also by “a skin-lightening subculture – an anonymised community for committed skin-lighteners”
that are active on the internet, notes the Guardian. “One forum, SkinCareTalk, hosts almost 450,000 posts discussing skinlightening,” the paper writes. “On YouTube, skin-lightening videos regularly accrue several million views, with the most popular being those from vloggers who focus on the use of products with natural or natural-sounding ingredients,” such as Fraink White, who launched his own line. Natural, however, as show the examples of plant-based hydroquinone remedies, does not necessarily equal safe.
Safety Bans are multiplying since the substance, which inhibits the production of melanin, hinders the natural protection of the skin against sunrays and causes certain types of cancer. It also accelerates skin aging and produces a bluish or blackish hyper-pigmentation: ochronosis, ironically turning skin darker not lighter. This component has been banned since 2001 in the European Union, since 2006 in the Democratic Republic of Congo, since 2015 in Côte d'Ivoire, and since 2017 in Ghana.
85
REPORT
But in the United States, it is still sold over-the-counter, provided that its concentration does not exceed 2%. At the same time, scientists, clinicians, and cosmetic groups are competing feverishly to offer new lightening agents that combine efficacy with safety. They recommend the use of several other ingredients (in addition to glucocorticoids and iodized mercury, which are clearly dangerous and often prohibited): • Niacinamide, a derivative of vitamin B3. It works by inhibiting the transfer of melanin from cells that produce it to the cells on the surface of the skin (it is the active ingredient of "Fair and Lovely" launched by Unilever in 1975); • Retinoic acid, a derivative of vitamin A that stimulates the desquamation of the upper layers of the epidermis, thus eliminating highly pigmented skin cells (it can, however, sensitize the skin to sunlight); • Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) function in the same way, by exfoliation of the skin; • Kojic acid has recently become a common ingredient in lightening creams. It is a derivative of vitamin C which, like hydroquinone, blocks a stage of melanin production.
Future of Whitening The perceptions that bind pale skin to beauty are not easy to uproot. However, they are the subject of heated debate. Several controversial studies published include The Social Science Journal which concluded that lightskinned black women received shorter prison sentences than dark-skinned black offenders, while research presented in the journal Social Currents showed that all things being equal, lighterskinned blacks and Hispanics were considered more intelligent during job interviews than their
86
darker-skinned competitors. But with societal changes under way, the paler complexion is no longer an indisputable sign of social distinction and prosperity. On the contrary, this hierarchy of colors has been disrupted by decolonization, the fight against racism, as well as the spread of globalization. Ethnic diversity and empowerment are trending across all beauty categories. The recent choice of a woman of color for the cover of British Vogue by the magazine’s new editor-in-chief Edward Enninful (a black man himself), sent a strong
About BEAUTYSTREAMS BEAUTYSTREAMS is today the only trend forecasting company completely dedicated to all aspects of beauty. Every day it supports companies over 6 continents with understanding how the beauty industry will evolve in the future and how each product will need to improve accordingly. For additional information on the future of Skin Whitening and other future industry trends, feel free to contact Michele Superchi at Michele@beautystreams.com
signal across the industry. We notice that in some countries like Thailand, for instance, the young generation are veering away from their mothers’ pale, Westernized beauty ideals, and opting for a more “modern” local style, which includes naturally tanned skin. In the U.S., an internet campaign started by Texas-based photographer Pax Jones, dubbed UnfairandLovely, highlighting the dangers of skin-brightening, went viral and was re-tweeted by Lupita Nyong’o. Moreover, the emergence of a leisure society and the expansion of tourism have
reversed the signs of recognition: pallor has sometimes become the prerogative of the worker and employee locked up in the factory or office, and tanning that of a wealthy, vacationing urban population. It remains to be seen whether this reversal will be permanent: cancer prevention policies and the avoidance of sun exposure to slow the skin-aging process may restore pallor to the taste of the day. Or as national pride emerges with economic growth, will natural tans become more popular in Asia, South America, and Africa?
87
EVENTS
With a population of 1.4 billion and growing consumers, China is not only the largest growing consumer base for beauty, health and wellness products, but also one of the largest manufacturing bases producing 60% of the world’s cosmetics, packaging, and equipment. Established for over 20 years, China Beauty Expo (CBE) is a highly recognized professional platform for foreign beauty, health and wellness
Young Consumers and Lower Tier Cities are Market Drivers According to the statistical data released by the National Bureau of Statistics, Z-Gen, a demographic cohort of approximately 260 million people born between 1995 and 2009, representing about 19% of the total population in 2018,
88
brands, suppliers and manufacturers to develop their business in China. Whether you are looking to launch your products, showcase your production capabilities, find distribution partners or meet industry professional, CBE is able to help you tap into greater opportunities and be more successful. CBE, Asia’s largest beauty trade show, will celebrate its 25th anniversary at the Shanghai New International
Expo Center from May 19 - 21, 2020. CBE 2020 will bring together 500,000 trade visitors from 85 countries and regions across the entire beauty industry, including: Manufacturers, Distributors, Agents & Importers, Beauty Salons, Spas, Nail Salons, Hair Salons, Plastic Surgery Hospitals, Specialty Chain Stores, Department Stores, Shopping Malls, Supermarkets, E-commerce Outlets and more…
China Beauty expo Tapping into Chinese Cosmetics Market
with 99.45 million born between 1995 and 1999, 83.12 million between 2000 and 2004 and 79.95 million between 2005 and 2009. As consumers between 18 and 24 gain spending power, they have become a major engine for sales growth. Similarly Alimama statistics find that 3rd Tier and lower cities are the fastest growing markets for cosmetics. China Beauty Expo estimates that there are more than 160,000 cosmetics stories in 3rd Tier or lower cities across China. These stores have rapidly emerged as a major cosmetics distribution channel, representing nearly 30% of the market.
In making cosmetics purchase decisions, safety and user experience are Z-Gen’s top considerations. In addition, 46.4% of the females surveyed also attach importance to the essence ingredients of cosmetics. Generally, females spend more on cosmetics, and demonstrate a far higher demand for product quality.
EVENTS
Imported Cosmetics Brands See Continued Growth in 2019 Fueled by tariff reductions on imported products in 2018, China’s imported cosmetics market has continued its strong growth in 2019. According to 2018 customs data, China imported RMB 65.7 billion in cosmetics, a 67.5% year-on-year increase. These volumes are expected to rocket even higher in 2019. Between January and April 2019 alone, imported make-up and skincare products reached RMB 27.15 billion, up 74% of the prior year period. At China Beauty Expo 2019, imported cosmetics surpassed local products in terms of exhibition space and number of brands exhibiting. The expo’s international exhibitors included cosmetics manufacturers, brand parent companies, agents and dealers, cross-border importers, and emerging brands.
Spain Shows the Boom in Chinese Beauty Market Spanish cosmetics sales also have grown quickly in China. Two or three years ago, the Spanish brand, Ampoules became an online hit, opening the door to other Spanish brands in China.
The number of Spanish exhibitors at China Beauty Expo 2019 doubled. Apart from Hall E3, many Spanish skincare and make-up brands exhibited in Hall E9. The expo included popular Spanish brands, MARTIDERM and ISDIN. Spain will also be the Country of Honor at the 25th China Beauty Expo in 2020.
89
EVENTS
Premium Cosmetics Products and Medical Beauty are the Main Trends Growing Generation Z spending power is driving demand for innovative and premium products in special categories. China Beauty Expo 2020 will set up Hall W7 – Premium Hair Care, Hall W9 – Premium Personal Care and Hall E11 – High-end Medical Beauty. Hall W7: Premium Hair Care Chinese consumers of Y and Z generations have a strong sense of hair care. “Anti – Hair Loss” and “Anti – White Hair” are ranked top of the key words searched on social media. Chinese young generation is becoming the main force in consumption. It’s a good time for you to enter into China and develop your brand loyalty.
SAVE THE DATE: China Beauty Expo 2020, 19-21 May 2020 More information about China’s beauty market and China Beauty Expo, please visit www.chinabeautyexpo.com or contact Ms. Olivia LIU, Olivia.liu@informa.com
90
Hall W9: Premium Personal Care - By 2021, China’s toiletries market will reach 53 billion yuan. The compound annual growth rate is 5.8% and consumption upgrade and high-end products are the main reasons for the growth. With the intense competition of China’s personal care industry, this is a right opportunity for you to enter into China’s market and seize the market share. Hall E11: High-end Medical Beauty With the huge potential and significant increase in the medical cosmetology industry, CBE has provided the top platform for the whole industry chain to uncover the new trend and explore the new opportunity. Content-oriented forums will invite industry experts to reveal the industry’s current climate in China, global trends and latest topics. Business & Conference Provider Business Meetings Asia – CBE offers the international exhibitors matchmaking with more and more international buyers including China’s top import agents, local distributors, online buyers and importers and retailers from Australia, Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, India, Myanmar and Laos. You will meet the targeted buyers in half a day which will help your business imported and distributed in your ideal markets.
China Cosmetics Retail Summit At China Cosmetics Retail Summit, the consulting experts such as Nielsen, and brands like L’Oreal, Shiseido and P&G will discuss how retailers create “loyalty” with their clients and potential consumers. The summit also invited Sherry Sjiamsuri, CEO of Sogo Indonesia, Mari Tsutsumi, Director & General Manager of Overseas Enterprise Division of Sogo & Seibu Co to give international views on the roles of retailing.
China Beauty Expo (CBE), held for 25 years, is the professional trade event and platform of the beauty industry. Hosting 3,500+ exhibiting companies, and 10,000+ brands covering the entire beauty supply chain from finished beauty products to the latest in packaging solutions, CBE is a one-stop sourcing experience for distributors, retailers, and beauty professionals seeking to learn and try the largest range of beauty products and manufacturing solutions in Asia.
ATTEND INTERNATIONAL EVENTS B2B - BUSINESS MEETINGS ASIA: a matchmaking platform for international brands to meet the master importers and retailers from asian countries. CHINA COSMETICS RETAIL SUMMIT: providing the insights to help cosmetics stores look, get and keep the high-value consumers through new marketing strategy.
COSMETIC TECHNOLOGY CONFERENCE: Bringing together buyers and suppliers to share the latest innovations and emerging fashion trends. ADVANCED SCIENCE AND INNOVATION FORUM: As the benefactor of IFSCC to exchange cutting edge technology.
USEFUL ADDRESSES Dunlop - Engelsrufer - Jette Kaviar Gauche - Leonardo Essenza Lufthansa - Scotch & Soda
3 Senses GmbH Senefelder Strasse 1/T4 - D-63110 Rodgau www.3senses.eu - panepinto@3senses.eu
Blumarine - Dsquared2 Pomellato - Trussardi
ITF s.p.a. - Angelini Group Strada Provinciale, 25 - Km. 2,8 - I-26900 Lodi tel. +39-0371/4001 - fax +39-0371/400227
Jesus del Pozo Roberto Verino Starck - Tous
Acqua di Portofino Blue Pollack - Esse - Evody Fabi - Hugh Parsons Panama - Pineider - Riva
Profumitalia s.r.l. Via A. Costa, 2 - I-20131 Milano tel. +39/02-45375660 info@profumitalia.net - www.profumitalia.it
Boutique
Garden Cosmetics Via Pigafetta, 20 - I-28100 Novara
Perfumes y Diseño España, S.L. Isla del Hierro, 5 E-28709 San Sebastian de los Reyes (Madrid) tel. +34-91/6588843 - fax +34-91/6588849
Kiko
Cale’
Milano Cosmetics s.r.l. Via Depretis, 6/9 - I-24122 Bergamo tel. +39-035/3693611 - fax +39-035/3693612
Acampora Profumi
Bruno Acampora Profumi B.A.P. s.r.l. Via G. Filangieri, 72 - I-80121 Napoli tel. +39/081.401701 - fax +39/081.414162 www.brunoacampora.com
CALE’ s.r.l. Via S.Maria Podone, 5 - I-20123 Milano tel. +39/02-76002494 - fax +39/02-76009407 ww.cale.it - s.levi@cale.it
La Closerie des Parfums
Air-Val Beverly Hills Fragrances
Air-Val Int. s.a. C/Miguel Servet, 27 E-08850 Gava (Barcelona) tel. +34-93/6355335 - fax +34-93/6629806
Groupe Panther – La Closerie des Parfums ZI Gradignan Bersol - 11 Avenue de la Madeleine F-33173 Gradignan cedex (France) tel +33/05.56.75.79.04 - fax +33/05.56.75.53.36 valerie.madrid@lacloseriedesparfums.com www.lacloseriedesparfums.com
Layla
Layla Cosmetics s.r.l. Via dei Pestagalli, 21 - I-20138 Milano tel. +39-02/5062052 - fax +39-02/5061160
L’Erbolario
L’Erbolario s.p.a. V.le Milano, 74 - I-26900 Lodi tel. +39/0371-4911 - fax +39/0371-491411 www.erbolario.com
Locherber
Cosval s.p.a. V.le delle Industrie 10/5 - I-20020 Arese (MI) tel. +39/02 935 80 479 - fax +39/02 935 81 022 www.cosvality.com
Lubin
Lubin 3, rue du Roule - F-75001 Paris tel: +33-1/40677009 - fax +33-1/45021316
M:PLUS Cosmetics
M:PLUS Cosmetics I-20065 Inzago (MI) Via Unità d’Italia, 9/11 www.mascaraplus.com - info@mascaraplus.com
Alyson Oldoini Parfums
Ancorotti Cosmetics
Luciano Oldoini s.r.l. V.le Geno 10 - I-22100 Como Show-room: Via Montenapoleone, 21 I-20122 Milano www.alysonoldoiniparfums.com Ancorotti Cosmetics s.r.l. Via del Commercio, 1 - I-26013 Crema (CR) tel. +39/0373-876811.21 - fax +39/0373-876811
Carrera
Almon s.r.l. Viale Sondrio, 7 - 20124 Milano - Italy tel. +39 02 84086374 - fax +39 02 84086354 e-mail: info@almon.it - www.almon.it
Charriol - Morgan Salvador Dalì
Cofinluxe 6, Rue Anatole de la Forge F-75017 Paris tel. +33-1/55377172 - fax +33-1/46229827
Collistar
Collistar s.p.a. Via Pirelli, 19 - I-20124 Milano tel. +39-02/677503 - fax +39-02/6775454
Confalonieri Matite
Confalonieri Matite s.r.l. I-23020 Area Industriale - Gordona (SO) tel. +39/0343-42011 - fax +39/0343 42000 www.confaloniericosmetica.com confaloniericosmetica.com Beauty San s.p.a. Via Rimini, 37 - I-59100 Prato tel. +39-0574/43891 - fax +39-0574/438940 www.beautysan.net
Antiqua Firenze - IO•KO
Enzo Galardi Via Ilio Barontini 22 - I-50018 Scandicci (FI) elisa.atelierbois.gmail.com - www.bois1920.it
Ars Mirabile - CBN I-Care - Longevity M Masterpiece
S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. Via della Liberazione, 56 I-20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) tel. +39-02/98280925 - fax +39-02/98280975
Costume National
Fragrance division: Arrogance - GMV Valentina by Guido Crepax Cosmetic division: Pikenz
The First s.p.a. Via Fieno, 8 I-20123 Milano tel. +39-02/661381 fax +39-02/66138519
Coverderm Covermark
Astra
Giufra S.r.l. Via Veneto, 152 - I-06059 Todi (PG) tel. +39-075.8987455 - fax +39-075.8987691
Art Cosmetics
Art Cosmetics s.r.l. I-24050 Mozzanica (BG) - Via E. Mattei, 17/c tel. +39/0363-032011 www.artcosmetics.it - info@artcosmetics.it
diego dalla palma diego dalla palma RVB Lab
Artdeco
Artdeco Cosmetic Group Gaussstrasse 13 - D-85757 Karlsfeld tel. +49/8131-390100 - fax +49/8131 390129
Enrico Coveri Mariella Arduini
Aubade - Montana
Parfums Montana - Empire of Scents 4, Place Wagram - F-75017 Paris tel +33-1/42650072 - fax +33-1/42650074
Farmeco Head Office: 11 Ag. Glykerios Str. - GR-11147 Athens, Greece tel. +30-20/2131701 - fax +30-20/2136036 Branch Office: Strada 6 Palazzo P1 Milano Fiori - I-20089 Rozzano (MI) tel. +39-02/89200150/167 - fax +39-02/89200371 Cosmetica s.r.l. Via S. Carlo 28 I-40023 Castel Guelfo (BO) tel. +39-0542/670911 - fax +39-0542/670911 Gold I-20131 Milano - Via Filippo Lippi 10 tel. +39/02_795862 www.goldmilano.it - info@goldmilano.it
Exclusive division: Braccialini - Byblos - Gandini - Genny Luciano Soprani - Transvital Prestige division: Australian - Bionsen La Gazzetta dello Sport - Lola Looney Tunes - Renato Balestra Rockford
Eurocosmesi Via Gobetti, 4 I-40050 Funo di Argelato (BO) tel. +39-051/6649238 fax +39-051/6649248
Franck Olivier
Sodip 21, Boulevard Montmartre- F-75002 Paris - France tel. +33-1/40262020 - fax +33-1/42210888
Fedua
Fedua Cosmetics Via Moretto 27 - I-25122 Brescia tel. +39/030-2590833 commerciale@fedua.com - www.fedua.com
Alain Delon - Jaguar - Lalique Nikki Beach - Parfums Grès Ultrasun
Art & Fragrance SA Bühlstrasse 1 - CH-8125 Zollikerberg - Switzerland Direct +41-43/4994532 - Phone +41-43/4994500 fax +41-43/4994502 www.art-fragrance.com
Alessandro Dell’Acqua - Dsquared Missoni - Moschino - John Richmond Joseph Abboud - Naj Oleari Versace
Euroitalia s.r.l. Via G. Galilei, 1 I-20040 Cavenago Brianza (MI) tel. +39-02/95916.1 - fax +39-02/95916500
Amarena Bella Oggi
Eurostyle s.p.a. I-80035 Nola - Interporto di Nola, Lotto D Blocco 4, Mod. 407/408 tel. +39-081/5108427 - fax +39-081/3158162 www.amarenamakeup.com - info@amarenamakeup.com
Giorgio Jäneke
Aquolina - Baldinini Paglieri 1876 Pink Sugar
Selectiva s.p.a. S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 - fax +39-0131/6186663
Giorgio Jäneke s.r.l. I-20050 Veduggio (MI) tel. +39-0362/911010 a.r. - fax +39-0362/911100
Guudcure Pollution Free
Armand Basi - Angel Schlesser Custo - Joaquín Cortés Mandarina Duck - Yekipé
IDESA-Angelini Group Via Augusta, 59-9 - E-08006 Barcelona tel. +34-93/2920891 - fax +34-93/2176881
HSA GROUP S.p.A. Via Ugo Foscolo, 27 - I-21050 Bisuschio (VA) tel. +39/0332-476554 - fax +39/03332-850307 hsa@hsacosmetics.com - www.hsacosmetics.com
Atkinsons - Benetton Ferrari - Iceberg John Galliano Sergio Tacchini
Perfume Holding - Morris s.p.a. Via Maretto, 13 I-43100 Parma - Roncopascolo tel. +39-0521/662111 - fax +39-0521/662268
Henry Cotton’s - Ducati Gattinoni - Juventus Mcs - Monello Mascalzone NY League
Diamond International s.r.l. Via Foce Cesano,4/9 - I-60019 Senigalla (AN) tel. +39/071-6610226 - fax +39/071-6611104 info@diamondint.it - www.difragrances.com
Herbal Essentials
Axis - Hoops - Elanzia Esprit de Versailles - Mercedes-Benz Monaco - Yujin
INCC Group 85, avenue de Saint Cloud F-78000 Versailles tel. +33/1-39670671 - fax + 33/1-39670672 www.inccgroup-parfums-com
Harmony Cosmetics DMCC Office 1906, Reef Tower, Cluster O, Jumeirah Lakes Tower, Dubai, U.A.E. Tel. +971/4-4401277 – Fa + 971/4-4392243 www.herbal-essentials.com -e-mail: aly@harmony.ae
Inika Organic
Inika Organic 813 Springvale Road, - Mulgrave VIC - Australia 3170 tel. + 61 3 8544 80000 e-mail: hello@inika.com.au
Balmain Parfums - Celine - Lanvin Interparfums Paul Smith - Roxi - Van Cleef & Arpels 4 Rond Point del Champs Elysées Jimmy Choo - Mont Blanc F-75008 Paris tel. +33/1-53770000 - fax +33/1-53763626 B.Kolor
B.Kolormakeup & Skincare s.p.a. Via Canonica, 79/A Loc. Geromina – I-24047 Treviglio (BG) tel. +39/0363-590011 – fax +39/0363-590212 info@bkolormakeup.com www.bkolormakeup-skincare.com
Intertrade Europe
HI Intertrade Europe Via Portogallo,11/125 - I-35127 Padova tel. +39-049/7625241 - fax +39-049/762 5177
Jean Couturier Léonard
VAG & Distribution 6, rue Pasquier - F-75008 Paris tel. +33-1/58183970 - fax +33-1/40060210
The Merchant of Venice - Police Mavive S.p.A. Replay - Zippo - Manila Grace Via Altinia, 298/B Blauer USA - Pino Silvestre I-30173 Venezia (Dese) Monotheme - I Profumi di d’Annunzio tel. +39-041/5417771 - fax +39-041/5417798 MI-RE
MI-in Paris 102, rue des Poissonniers - F-75018 Paris tel. +33/6-65299995 www.mirecosmetics.com - etremosa@mi-in.kr
Molinard
Parfums Molinard 60, boulevard Victor Hugo - F-06130 Grasse tel. +334-92423322 - fax +334-89123068 export@molinard.com - www.molinard.com
Nesti Dante
Nesti Dante s.r.l. Via della Molina, 39 - I-50010 S.Donnino (FI) tel. +39-055/8739401/2 - fax 39-055/8739768
Nouba
Nouba s.r.l. I-24061 Albano S. Alessandro (BG) Via Santa Barbara, 6 tel. +39/035-581996 – fax +39/035-4521099 www.nouba.it – e-mail: info@nouba.it
Paglieri
Paglieri s.p.a. S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 - I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 - fax +39-0131/6186663
Parfums Pergolèse Paris
Parfums Pergolèse Paris 59, Rue De Miromesnil - F-75008 Paris Tel. +33-(0)1/53581402 or 1435 www.parfums-pergolese-paris.com
Payot
Laboratoires Dr. N G Payot 10, boulevard du Parc - F-92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine tel. +331/55625454 contact@payot.fr - www.payot.com
Pupa Miss Milkie
Micy’s Company s.p.a. Via De Gasperi, 22 - I-23880 Casatenovo (LC) tel. +39-039/92341 - fax +39-039/89205859
Rancé
Rancé & C. s.r.l. Via Lombardini, 10 - I-20143 Milano tel. +39-02/58100855 - fax +39-02/89401058
Rebis
Rebis Via Repubblica 36/B - I-26043 Persico Dosimo (CR) tel. +39-0372-54396 - fax +39-0372-493181 info@rebisnatural.com - www.rebisnatural.com
Sandalia
Officina Profumeria Sarda s.r.l. I-07041 Alghero (SS) tel. + 39/340 3872516 www.acquadisardegna.it - infor@officinaprofumeriasarda
Salvatore Ferragamo Ungaro
Salvatore Ferragamo Italia s.p.a. Via dei Tornabuoni, 2 - I-20123 Firenze tel. +39-055/33601 - fax +39-055/3360734
Teatro Fragranze Uniche
Teatro Fragranze Uniche s.r.l. Via Pietro Nenni, 26/28 - I-50019 Sesto Fiorentino (FI) tel. +39/055.4212240 www.teatrofragranzeuniche.it info@teatrofragranzeuniche.it