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export.magazine@mteedizioni.it

THE INTERNET GUIDE TO THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY WORLDWIDE

exportmagazine.net

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N. 4 / 2020 - bimestrale - mte Edizioni s.r.l. - Via R. Gessi 28 - 20146 Milano - Tariffa R.O.C.: Poste Italiane s.p.a.

Spedizione in abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB - Modena - € 7 In caso di mancato recapito inviare al CPO MODENA per la restituzione previo pagamento resi. - CONTIENE SUPPLEMENTO

YOUR BUSINESS PARTNER FOR DOMESTIC & DUTY FREE MARKETS WORLDWIDE

ECO-PROTECT TECHNOLOGY

Nourishing Volumizing Reinforcing Purifying Calming Restructuring No-frizz Color Maintenance ESLABONDEXX.COM

YOUR NATURAL WAY TO HAIR BEAUTY & HEALTH Clean Care means beautiful and healthy hair, but also looks out to the world that surrounds us. The vigour of nature is enclosed in the heart of the cosmetic formulae whose guiding light is simplicity, safety, functionality and the sustainable use of raw materials and packaging. More than 90% of the ingredients are natural or organic + ECO-PROTECT TECHNOLOGY which is a powerful blend of protective natural active ingredients for the hair, including sugar cane extract, monoi oil, argan oil and vitamin E.

• THE PRODUCTS ARE SLS AND SLES FREE. • USING DELICATE SURFACTANTS OF NATURAL ORIGIN THAT ARE HIGHLY COMPATIBLE WITH HAIR AND SKIN. • THE PACKAGING IS IN PE GREEN PLASTIC WHILE THE BOXES ARE MADE WITH RECYCLED PAPER.

BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE EAST Dubai 31 May - 2 June · COSMOPACK Bologna 11 -14 June · COSMOPROF WORLDWIDE Bologna 12 - 15 June

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COMPANY 18-19 28-29 30

Astra Teaology Carrera

EVENTS

On the cover: COVERMARK botuline®,

World’s 1st anti e-aging® line

N. 4 ANNO XL JUNE-JULY-AUGUST 2020 GIUGNO-LUGLIO-AGOSTO 2020 BIMONTHLY DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano n. 85 del 16/02/1991 Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena

6-7 14 26 32 33 34

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Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl Via Romolo Gessi, 28 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/48.95.23.05 Telefax 02/41.23.405 E-mail: mteedizi@mteedizioni.it Managing Editor Giuseppe Tirabasso Editor-in-chief Claudia Stagno E-mail: export.magazine@mteedizioni.it Correspondent for France: Catherine du Villard Consultants Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom - Francesca Bonelli Roberto Cimarosa - Valerie Kaminov Rebecca Lazzari - Joan Rundo Simona Verga - Catherine Wrenn P.R. Promotion Italy: M.T.E. Edizioni

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FLASH/NEWS

LAUNCH 22-23 24-25 43

Desìo Collistar Lumson

report

Printing: Formagrafica s.r.l. - Carpi (MO) Art Director Teresa Tibaldi

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna In-cosmetics Beauty Match Beautyworld Middle East MEADFA BeautyEurasia

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m1nd-set The Beauty of Sustainability by V. Kaminov

Advertisers’ list IV-8/11-13-15-17 45 35 III 27 3 31 16 46-47 II-1 Cover-4-5 20-21

Astra Beauty Asia Beauty Eurasia Beauty Istanbul Beauty Match Collistar Cosmobeauté Cosmoprof Asia EM - Export Magazine Eslabondexx Farmeco Guudcure

EVENTS

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna

The appointment for the International business community is from 18 to 22 March 2021 The 53rd edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, the leading b2b event for the beauty industry, will be held from 18 to 22 March 2021. Every year, the show gathers under one roof over 3,000 companies and 265,000 operators from 150 countries.

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“In these months we have never stopped our activities - says Gianpiero Calzolari, President of BolognaFiere. – To face the forced lockdown, we implemented new business tools to keep giving voice to the excellence and quality of the cosmetic industry. Today a new phase is starting for us: we are working to our show scheduled for next spring, to offer international companies and operators a highperformance and content-rich event, in full compliance with the required safety standards. “

“The exhibition in March 2021 will be a fundamental step in our development strategy, - says Enrico Zannini, General Manager of BolognaFiere Cosmoprof. - We will make our entrance into a new decade proposing cutting- edge initiatives and technologies, which have been implemented thanks to the competence and recognition gained over our 50-year history, to optimize our offer of B2B services.

After the first June edition, we will confirm a new appointment of WeCosmoprof, our digital event.

EVENTS

As an excellence recognized for its economic, scientific and social values, it has been able to make its contribution in an unprecedented situation, - says Renato Ancorotti, president of Cosmetica Italia – the Personal Care Association.

- Giving companies resources and concrete tools for the development of their business has always been a priority.

Today, thanks to the historic collaboration with BolognaFiere Cosmoprof, we can start looking at 2021. We will work with our partner to confirm Cosmoprof Further to that, we are evaluating new collaborations to improve our exhibitors and the international community’s business experience on the show floor. Hard work expects us in the next months, and we are looking forward to welcoming the companies and operators of our network to Bologna. Our goal is to repay them for their trust in our group with a successful and high-quality event, worthy of the Cosmoprof brand.”

“I have been particularly proud of the reaction of the beauty industry in the latest months. as a unique event in the world, being the best platform between the cosmetic industry and the market. Organizers, institutions and trade associations will join together at the new appointment, contributing to the relaunch of our country.”

For further information: www.cosmoprof.com

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PH. SUSI BELIANSKA

I TA LY

W H E R E T H E S O U L M E R G E S W I T H N AT U R E , H I S TO RY S P E A K S O F T R A D I T I O N , A N D A RT & C U LT U R E M E E T TA L E N T A N D Q U A L I T Y .

P R O T E C T I TA LY , L O V E I TA LY , E N J O Y I TA LY .

# A S T R A LO V E S I TA LY

# A S T R A I TA L I A N B E A U T Y

A S T R A M A K E U P , 1 9 8 8 , U M B R I A , I TA LY

T R U E I TA L I A N PA S S I O N F O R M A K E - U P

PH. SUSI BELIANSKA

I TA LY

W H E R E T H E S O U L M E R G E S W I T H N AT U R E , H I S TO RY S P E A K S O F T R A D I T I O N , A N D A RT & C U LT U R E M E E T TA L E N T A N D Q U A L I T Y .

P R O T E C T I TA LY , L O V E I TA LY , E N J O Y I TA LY .

# A S T R A LO V E S I TA LY

# A S T R A I TA L I A N B E A U T Y

A S T R A M A K E U P , 1 9 8 8 , U M B R I A , I TA LY

T R U E I TA L I A N PA S S I O N F O R M A K E - U P

report

An “express survey” from Chinese consumers to resume international travel immediately after bans lifted Leading industry research agency m1nd-set is investing in regular complimentary insights report in a bid to equip the global duty free and travel retail industry with regular consumer insights and emerge from the current Covid19 crisis with the tools and knowledge to better understand shopper mindsets and expectations when international travel resumes. The Swiss research agency says it is launching the industry support insights series after being inundated with requests from both current and new clients, eager to understand what travel and shopping trends will look like once international travel restrictions have been lifted.

Chinese consumers among the first to resume travel The first report focuses on the Chinese traveller, the nationality segment which, according to m1nd-set, will be among the first to resume international travel. m1nd-set conducted an “express survey” on 14 and 15 May, among 1.000 Chinese consumers who have travelled internationally in the past 12 months, to get a better understanding of their postCovid travel and shopping behaviour.

The findings reveal that around 7 out of 10 Chinese say they will fly internationally as soon as they can following the lifting of international travel restrictions. Around half of these travellers say their motivation to fly is more out of frustration at not being able to travel internationally for so long. 58% say they will travel within Asia, and plan to travel again as early as the beginning of the summer months there.

Millennials will be the most likely to fly immediately; about half of those travelling again will be aged below 35. Group travel will decline compared to pre-Covid19

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m1nd-set

levels with only 12% of Chinese saying they will embark on a group trip when international flights resume.

In terms of travel and shopping spend, there is both good and bad news.

While more than half (55%) of Chinese consumers say they plan to spend more on travel than they did before Covid19, an even larger majority (63%) say they will allocate less budget on shopping than they did before the crisis. Although almost 9 out of 10 shoppers say they will be loyal to brands they are familiar with, promotions and discounts will play an important role in driving purchases in the post-Covid19 travel retail environment for the Chinese with 69% saying they will purchase promotions when next travelling. While luxury brands will remain a preference for more than 6 out of 10 post-Covid19 Chinese travellers, a growing number – now just less than half of Chinese shoppers – say are interested in sustainable products. For brands looking to reach out to Chinese travellers in the post-Covid19 context, they still express a resounding preference for social media as their preferred source of information about shopping.

Anna Marchesini, Project and Business Development Manager at m1nd-set commented: “m1nd-set has developed a strong reputation over the past few years as the most trusted source of reliable and relevant insights concerning all aspects of shopper behaviour in the travel retail environment. As a gesture of support for the industry we work so closely with, servicing more than 60 clients across all sectors, we have launched this insights programme to ensure our partners and other stakeholders are well equipped

for the recovery and kept informed of how consumers are planning to travel and shop again.” “We will be conducting a series of these express surveys, Marchesini continued, “based on industry needs – based both on what partners are saying is most vital to them and on how the situation evolves across the globe in the coming weeks and months.”

For further information: info@m1nd-set.com About m1nd-set m1nd-set is the largest independent and privately owned travel and travel retail research agency, based out of Switzerland. It conducts research for clients across all world regions, working for over one hundred companies in the travel sector, including brands from all product categories, as well as a number of the duty free and travel retail associations and several leading retailers in the industry. m1nd-set is present with local interviewers at over 60 airports on a regular basis to conduct on-site research. It also has its own database of regular international travellers. Corporate social responsibility is a fundamental part of the company’s philosophy and each year commits a minimum of 10% of profits to charity, mainly for unprivileged children in developing countries.

For more information: Dr. Peter Mohn, Owner & CEO T: +41 21 925 5025 pmohn@m1nd-set.com

PH. SUSI BELIANSKA

EVENTS

In-cosmetics’ Ingredients in Action

Following the success of in-cosmetics Global’s first virtual conference in April, the world’s leading event for the beauty and personal care industry hosted another popular series of free webinars, this time revealing the industry’s hottest ingredient launches. More than 1,200 industry professionals tuned in live to watch the 30-minute online ingredient demos.

Inspired by the Innovation Zone at incosmetics Global, the first Ingredients in Action: Live Demo Showcase saw 14 leading suppliers display and discuss their latest ingredients during a presentation and Q&A. The full series is now available on-demand at: https://www.in-cosmetics. com/en/landing-pages/virtual-demos/ The two-day virtual event kicked off with Margaux Caron, Global Beauty Analyst at Mintel, demonstrating the New Power of Nature. In her opening session, Caron detailed the hottest ingredients and finished end products driving three key trends: healthy nature, protective nature, and sustainable nature,also revealing that vegan claims in new beauty and personal care launches has grown globally by 44% year-on-year. She outlined the

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Live Demo Showcase reveals the latest new ingredients

opportunities to combine nature and science for more sustainable ingredient sourcing, while delivering nutrients that mirror the natural food source. Dr. Fred Zülli and Dr. Franziska Wandrey of Mibelle Group came together to educate attendees on the company’s Alpine Rose Active, designed to combat senescent or ‘zombie cells related conditions. It is a purified extract of organic alpine rose leaves, which rejuvenates the skin and reduces the number of senescent fibroblasts – without damaging any healthy cells. Jordi Ayats, Marketing Manager at ALGAKTIV revealed the new ALGAKTIV BodySKN. Helping to restore normal skin homeostasis, it is also proven to improve skin elasticity, restore skin firmness, alleviate dry skin and itching and moistures the skin. Mathias Fleury, Global Catering Manager Biotech Active at Givaudan, provided participants with an insight into the latest pillar of the company’s biotech expertise: Green biotech. He revealed two new ingredient launches: K-phyto™ [SC] Camellia and K-phyto™ [PP] GHK. The former is a powerful active obtained from Camellia phytoplacenta cells culture, ideal for dry and sensitive scalp applications as it decreases scalp skin dead cells, improves scalp moisturisation and offers soothing qualities. The latter of the two new ingredients is ideal for use in facial toners, skincare for acne-prone skin and mattifying serums. Other highlights on the first day included Òscar Expósito CEO, CSO and Co-founder of Vytrus Biotechshowing attendees a new biological deodorant that fits with the current clean beauty trend: Deobiome Noni, plus Dr. Florian Genrich,Senior Global Product Manager Skin Protectionat Symrise, discussing the recently launched Crinipan® PMC green - an

innovative and sustainable way to control dandruff. Elise Romain, Technical Service Manager at Jungbunzlauer, showcased the company’sclean-label hair-styling curl balm with ERYLITE – a formulation that is free from polyquats and silicones whilst having a reduced list of ingredients. The proven properties of ERYLITE include moisturising and nourishing, controlling and reducing unwanted frizz. Maria J. Lopez, PhD, Marketing and Business Developer at Antalgenics, discussed different types of neurocosmetic products and introduced two new developments. Calmapsin, is a novel capsaicinoid designed to address itchy scalps. It has a calming effect on the skin. Capsisilence, addresses a sensitive scalp, reduces the activity of sensory neurons giving a calming effect and reduces inflammation. Dr. Angela Roca, R&D Project Manager at Provital, discussed the development of a new active ingredient specifically for mature women over 60: Wonderage. Derived from the monk fruit, the new ingredient is inspired by the secret behind the longevity of Chinese monks and originates from Provital’s mission to express individual beauty by generating positive emotions. Lucyanna Barbosa Barros, Cofounder and CEO at Bicosome, revealed the latest Bicoalgae® lines - Bicoalgae XT and Bicoalgae ω3 - which tackle the stressful conditions of modern life that impact skin health. Highlighting skin inflammaging,she showed how Bicosome technology increases the efficacy of the microalgae extracts in the SC, epidermis, and dermis. It works by protecting microalgae bioactives via double encapsulation, allowing them to gently penetrate the skin and deliver actives where needed allowing an increase in the skin’s biological processes.

PH. SUSI BELIANSKA

2020 COSMOPROF ASIA HONG KONG

11 – 13 NOVEMBER 10 – 12 NOVEMBER ASIAWORLD-EXPO HONG KONG CONVENTION & EXHIBITION CENTRE

A new world for beauty Bologna, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Mumbai, Bangkok

Sales Office Europe, Africa, Middle East, The Americas BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a.

Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 / F +39 02 795 036 international@cosmoprof.it

cosmoprof-asia.com

Sales Office Asia Pacific Informa Markets, Hong Kong P +852 2827 6211 F +852 2827 7831 cosmoprofasia-hk@informa.com

Marketing and Promotion BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a.

Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 F +39 02 795 036 info@cosmoprof.it

Organiser – Cosmoprof Asia Ltd

PH. SUSI BELIANSKA

A S T R A M A K E U P , 1 9 8 8 , U M B R I A , I TA LY

COMPANY

Astra Make-Up

bility a in a t s u s n o s ASTRA bet gly in s a e r c in s e s and focu ation z li a n io t a n r e t on in

hella and Lucia Meng Simone Settimi

Present in over 30 countries Europe, South America, the Middle East and Asia: Astra Make-Up, the brand of cosmetics founded in Todi (Perugia) in 1988, already has over 3,500 points of sale in over 30 countries. A development with a rapid rise, with the company managed by Simone Settimi, General Manager, and his wife Lucia Menghella, CEO Astra Make-Up, becoming increasingly international.

“The beauty philosophy underlying Astra is that of “affordable luxury”: make-up products of high quality and performance, which embrace real beauty and the concepts of “inclusivity” and “diversity”,” says Lucia Menghella. “What we want to convey to the world, through our image and our new references, is the desire to exalt a multicultural beauty, which goes beyond every barrier and gender, which highlights different personalities and puts individuality and the personal characteristics of our consumers at the centre.”

Precisely the multicultural approach of Astra Make-

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Up and the ability to embrace beauty in all its forms have driven the brand not only to consolidate its positioning on the domestic market, on the strength of totally Italian-made production, but to look with increasing interest at export markets, focusing on internationalization. “The objective today is to consolidate our new image and the repositioning of the brand both on the domestic market but even more so on the international one,” says Simone Settimi.

“We will be concentrating much of our energy abroad to confirm the quality of the brand and the work of research and innovation that we are carrying on. We want to attack new markets, make our philosophy and our products known and position ourselves well, in the first place taking part in various trade fairs. For example, we already have planned our presence in Dubai, Bangkok, Istanbul and at important events which can put our references into the spotlight.”

COMPANY

Astra Make-Up recently featured in Seville at the Simof, the Salòn Internacional de Moda Flamenca: the brand sponsored the event and the make-up looks of the fashion shows were all created with Astra products. The brand also had a prestigious stand where the Astra make-up artists were available for the participants for beauty tips and for exclusive make-up experiences. The Astra Make-Up commitment is not only in terms of inclusivity and multicultural but also

increasingly in the sphere of sustainability. “Women who choose a cosmetic today are looking for a product that looks after not only their beauty but also their health and the environment,” says Lucia Menghella. “Our attention to safety, to the performances of the product and market trends has made us take an increasingly green path, integrating sustainability into our corporate strategy with the aim of making important commitments tangible in the area of Corporate Social Responsibility.”

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Discover the complete range on

guudcure.com

SHADES OF LIGHTNESS BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE EAST Dubai – 31 May-2 June / COSMOPACK Bologna – 11-14 June / COSMOPROF Bologna – 12-15 June

make YOU

Make You is the make-up line of Guudcure, the “healthy ageing” and “clean beauty” italian skin care brand. The extreme richness of textures is combined with delicate ingredients in 8 fantastic products, for a safe and perfect make-up, but light as a plume!

GUUDCURE is a brand of H.S.A. S.p.A. // www.hsacosmetics.com // made in Italy

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Today’s colored contact lenses guarantee iris color change and many eye defect corrections, such as myopia, hyperopia and astigmatism with a natural and pleasant result. Even on extremely dark eyes with maximum comfort. Desìo is the leader in the field of the new generation of colored contact lenses. The Italian brand is registered in over 150 countries, manufactured and distributed exclusively by Qualimed.

Desìo, CERTIFICATED QUALITY Desìo lenses are ophthalmologist tested, CE certified, approved by FDA and comply with ISO standards according to international standards. Every Desìo design aspect starting from the choice of material, geometries, iris design definition and shades are studied in detail to ensure final product excellence and maximum practicality in application and use.

The materials, Polymacon and Hioxifilcon D used in Desìo lenses, allow the final customer to wear the contact lenses with maximum comfort for an extended amount of time, without feeling the perception of foreign bodies or experiencing any other problem.

DESÌO colored contact lenses

A unique design and a natural result

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To further guarantee the quality and high compatibility of Desìo lenses with the ocular structure, Qualimed has commissioned IRSOO – Research Institute and Studies in Optics and Optometry, a study on the impact of Desìo lenses on vision and corneal physiology. This study underlines that Desìo colored contact lenses don’t have any negative impact on homeostasis of the tear film and on the cornea, but they are safe and well tolerated even by sensitive eyes.

THE Desìo COLLECTION Other key elements of Desìo are the iris geometries and colors: simply unique. The design gives natural effects and cover dark eyes with a unique result.

Creating a perfect fusion between the colored contact lens and the natural eye color. It differs from one individual to another. Inspired by the world of fashion and beauty, Desìo is an iconic brand with an exclusive heritage and unmistakable style. New collections are continuously launched on the market, inspired by fashion and are themselves sources of inspiration for influencers and star system icons.

The wide variety of available lens colors are offered in daily, monthly and quarterly versions.

CURRENTLY THE Desìo RANGE COMPOSES OF 4 COLLECTIONS Desìo SENSUAL BEAUTY LENSES “Sensual Beauty Lenses” is a collection of quarterly colored lenses designed for her and for him, which include 8 nuances with an evocative name and an unmistakable style: Innocent White, Creamy Beige, Forest Green, Mint Touch, Icy Blue, Jungle Fever, Desert Dream and Caramel Brown.

Desìo TWO SHADES OF GREY Inspired by a famous novel, that then became a box office hit, Two Shades of Grey is a unique collection, intriguing, sexy, with the main protagonist being grey, in Lighter and Darker versions.

To give sensuality and depth to the look.

Desìo COFFEE COLLECTION A collection of quarterly lenses graduating in a scale of four warm brown shades, with an exotic and evocative name to give a new intensity to dark eyes.

4 available nuances: Espresso, Cappuccino, Cherry Coffee and Black Coffee.

Desìo ATTITUDE Born last of all in the Desìo family, Attitude is a collection of daily, monthly and quarterly lenses available in 12 diverse colors in three different styles: 1 tone, 2 tones and 3 tones. The registered design, achieved by accurately recreating the natural iris pigmentation, gives the gaze intensity and naturalness.

The colors of Attitude lenses are a whole world to be discovered, inspired by nature and the beauty of the world around us. Precious Grey, Irresistible Blue, Charming Green, Tender Hazel (3 tones); Rebel Grey, Wild Green, Delicious Honey, Romantic Blue (2 tones); Sublime Grey, Angelic Blue, Lush Green, Shameless Hazel (1 tone).

Desìo LAUNCHES ATTITUDE CLASSIC BLUE A limited edition colour contact lens that celebrates the pantone colour of the year To celebrate the iconic Classic Blue 2020 Pantone colour of the year, the go to brand for colored contact lenses, Desìo, launches Attitude Classic Blue. Designed for fashion addicts all over the world, for those who want to be on-trend and glamourous whatever the occasion.

Attitude Classic Blue is a homage paid by Desìo to the coolest colour at this point in time: timeless, chic, and elegant. The colour for 2020 is a timeless blue, a deep intense blue that inspires peace and serenity. This can also be said for Attitude Classic Blue, a 90-day contact lens in two tones, studied to give the eyes the intensity and poetry of the sky at dusk, calm waters and ripe blueberries. A colour that is already legendary. Sophisticated and intense, Classic Blue is a must have for the upcoming seasons and for fashion and make-up artists alike. From Dior to Oscar de la Renta, from Marc Jacobs to Chanel, and from Givenchy to Balenciaga: plenty of brands have dedicated a garment in their collection to the colour of the year. The same goes for make-up: hands, eyes and even lips... A truly generous selection of blue nail varnishes, eye shadows, mascaras and lipsticks, the perfect shade for both blondes and brunettes. Blue eyed blondes can emphasise the shade with a darker shade of eyeshadow or eyeliner, while brunettes, for whom blue is so flattering as it highlights all their potential, can play with blue-on-blue for all their make-up accessories. So why not flaunt Classic Blue on your eyes too?! Attitude Classic Blue by Desìo is the ideal way to create a magnetic, intense look, a blue that also goes perfectly with dark eyes. Attitude lenses are not just a fashion accessory; they are safe, certified medical devices. The comfort and quality of Desìo lenses are a guarantee for the eyes: Desìo colored contact lenses are ophthalmologist tested, CE certified and FDA approved.

For more information www.desioeyes.com

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LAUNCH

collistar beauty routines for

a perfect body all year round

There is a general inspiration to feel better and follow a healthier, more balanced lifestyle, reflected in this desire to take daily care of their bodies.

Women’s daily beauty routines now include effective products that recreate treatment rituals at home.

Collistar fully sides with this approach, thanks to its innovative and successful products that have become icons over the years.

It used to be in the months before summer that women would remember about body care: not any longer Boosted anticellulite action in Cryo-Gel A new combination of active ingredients boosts the anticellulite action and lifting effect of Colllistar’s Cryo-Gel in the Anti-Cellulite range of its Perfect Special Body line.

Pink pepper extract and caffeine, now in a higher percentage, work in combination on three fronts: to prevent and reduce the formation of new mature adipocytes, to block lipogenesis and help eliminate existing fat. The new active ingredients include fermented green coffee extract which is rich in flavonoids and works alongside horse chestnut, blueberry and pineapple extracts to stimulate the microcirculation, reducing fluid retention with a lymph-draining effect.

Its lifting and tensor action is guaranteed by a mix od alpha-hydroxy-acids of botanical origin that ensure an immediate smoothing effect and is reinforced by centella asiatica – now in a greater concentration.

– which recompacts the skin over time.

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launch

The cold effect is created by the product’s gel formula and the inclusion of menthol: the cryotherapy action improves the microcirculation and helps drain fluids, giving a pleasant sensation of lightness.

Anticelulite Cryo-Gel Boosted Formula is just one of the products in Collistar’s Anticellulite Strategy, which lets every woman discover the tailor-made solution right for her. The other products are Anticellulite Thermal Cream, perfect for permanently visible orange peel skin and slackened tissues, as well as being ideal for professional massages; Anticellulite Draining Gel-Mud. Recommended in cases of fluid retention and localized fat deposits; Pure Active Anticellulite Capsules, an intensive treatment for stubborn, hardened cellulite and ideal for professional massages and Anticellulite Slimming Superconcentrate Night, the solution for fluid retention, orange peel skin and fat deposits.

Allies for a beauty routine Four new limited edition sets are designed for four à la carte beauty routines: two anticellulite and two slimming, with a free gift of Anti-Water TalassoScrub in a practical 150 ml size. Collistar’s Anti-Water Talasso-Scrub is not only an ally for smooth, glowing skin, but an essential treatment that prepares the skin for anticellulite or slimming treatments, completing their effects. The blend of exfoliating sea salts, cane sugar, essential oils and spices revitalizes the tissues and helps drain excess fluids, while essential chamomile, juniper, lavender, lemon and thyme oils envelop the body in a sensation of total well-being.

Paired with Anticellulite Thermal Cream, this duo is perfect for treating cellulite and slackened skin.

Anti-Water Talasso-Scrub and Anticellulite Draining Gel-Mud are the solution for problems with cellulite and fluid retention. When the problem is stubborn pockets of fat, the Collistar solution is an intensive treatment with Pure Actives Two-Phase Sculpting Concentrate Marine Algae + Peptides together with Anti-Water Talasso-Scrub. While for slimming and firming the body, the perfect addition to a daily routine is high-Definition Slimming Cream plus AntiWater Talasso Scrub.

The Talasso-Scrubs Anti-Water Talasso-Scrub is only one of the five iconic Talasso Scrub products. They recreate the effect of a spa treatment drawing on the benefits of the sea combined with essential oils. Over the years, the line has grown from the original Energizing Talasso-Scrub to include Anti-Water Talasso-Scrub, Toning TalsssoScrub with Sardinian juniper, Anti-Age Talasso-Scrub with a blend of citrus fruits and orange blossom and Firming Talasso-Scrub with a mixture of red salt and powdered cherry stone.

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EVENTS

BeauteaMatch.com platform launch

It is with great enthusiasm that we are announcing the launch of the new BtoB platform: BeauteaMatch. com by Infopro Digital!

Due to the extraordinary sanitary issues the whole world is facing, we are very proud to start a new digital adventure with our

About Infopro Digital: The group offers its customers and clients’ multi-media products and solutions. Software, trade shows, databases, digital solutions, lead generation, analysis & insight, events and training helps customers and clients to: • Improve their efficiency and productivity • Make informed decisions faster with better insights on a daily basis • Grow revenue by generating new business and sales opportunities Our success is based on three key strategic pillars: • Portfolioofmarket-leadingbrands • Deep in-house technological capabilities and expertise, enabling continued product and platform development • Growth through value enhancing global acquisitions

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community! BeauteaMatch.com perfectly fits into the professional ecosystem we created with the MakeUp inTM and Clean Beauty in LondonTM shows. This platform will be launched of the 1st of June, 2020 and both brands and suppliers of the Beauty Industry will benefit from its features all year long!

Our mission with BeauteaMatch. com is to provide our BtoB Beauty community a complete digital toolbox to enhance their business growth. The visitors will have access to manufacturers and suppliers’ profiles and the exhibitors will have the possibility to showcase their products, full ranges, best-sellers and latest innovations in skincare, makeup, haircare, body care and toiletries!

Up to date contents and experts insights will be regularly uploaded on the platform and our live conferences «BeauTEA Time» will be organized once a month.

The decision- makers within beauty brands will have the possibility to contact the exhibitors directly

through an interactive networking zone – including a chat box and video meetings. And of course, the platform will include a special Innovations Area, where the MakeUp in Awarded IT Products and many others will be displayed.

BeauteaMatch.com will be the first-ever beauty professional platform providing a year- long visibility to beauty suppliers and manufacturers. The various beauty market players will benefit from a new tool to boost their businesses, maintain dynamic links with each other, gain digital visibility and conduct negotiations with new partners. The visitors’ registration will be exclusive and free for all skincare, makeup, haircare, body care and toiletries brands.

Such an exciting project deserves an unforgettable moment all together: the launching will be celebrated with our very first webinar early June and with an amazing full-week program midJune. We will be sending the info very soon!

COMPANY

Teaology

THE BRAND OF COSMETICS INFUSED WITH LOVE Thanks to the patented Tea Infusion Skincare® technology, the antioxidant power of Camellia Sinensis (the tea plant) has been extracted and incorporated into products for face and body care, with luxurious textures and fragrances. Each product is carefully formulated in Italy for benefits ranging from hydration and nourishment to firming and anti-ageing.

Inspired by the extraordinary health-enhancing properties of tea, Teaology has high performing products for face and body care The new Yoga Care line Yoga and Tea are two millennial rituals that have become a contemporary lifestyle. Yoga means “union” and this discipline helps connecting body, mind and soul. Tea, especially black Indian tea, is an important ingredient in yogi culture and is used to promote concentration and preserve the body’s youthfulness. Inspired by the yoga philosophy and the rebalancing action of an organic tea grown on the slopes of Mount Everest, Teaology has created a skincare line that helps live better with greater consciousness and that will transform dynamic everyday life into positive emotions and moments of happiness. Up to 98% of the ingredients are of natural origin, with 100% infusion of organic black tea and 0% water. The ingredients are also clean and vegan and the products contained in recyclable eco packaging.

Are ideal for sensitive skins. Yoga Care has been designed to meet the needs of people who share the Teaology founders’ passion to do more, take care of the body and live with passion.

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COMPANY

There are four products in the line. Purity is a Shower Body Wipe, which cleanses and refreshes, made with 100% biodegradable natural fibres. When there is no time to shower, this shower wipe refreshes the body instantly, cleansing and perfuming the skin. It contains over 90% antioxidant Black Tea Infusion, extracts of aloe, ginger and Melaleuca alternifolia to sanitize, nourish and create a sensation of perfumed wellbeing for the skin. It is ideal after the gym, when travelling and outdoors. Radiance is a Butter shower scrub, which cleanses and exfoliates. The soft richness of butter, the exfoliating power of the purest marine salts and the revitalizing action of essential oils purify, smooth and illuminate the skin. This daily treatment removes impurities, nourishes and tones the body, while the fragrances of lavender and ylang ylang calm the spirit. Balance is a natural deodorant which offers 2 in 1 freshness and protection, thanks to a slow-release menthol complex that controls perspiration plus an “anti-odour” agent without aluminium salts extracts of ginger and turmeric protect the skin’s natural hydration levels, leaving it soft and smooth. Alcohol-free and with a hypoallergenic fragrance it can also be used after hair removal. Breathe is a Body Mist that perfumes and refreshes. Alcohol-free it offers the harmonious notes of citrus fruit infused with aniseed, fine woods and tea leaves. The 3 in 1 formula perfumes, hydrates and refreshes with an antioxidant protective organic Indian black tea infusion. Suitable even for delicate skins, it can be sprayed over body and hair after a shower, exercise session or at any time in the day.

Teaology + Alice Alice is a no-profit company founded in Milan in 1992, with the mission of building an inclusive society, empowering people and supporting sustainable and circular development, through craftsmanship and ethics. Active in a number of prisons in the Milan area and with an external workshop for women coming out of situations of violence and difficulty, Alice is committed to showing how restoring dignity to people through work is not only a profitable business model but also an important social investment. For Teaology, Alice cooperative has created a collection of bags made from recycled raw materials from processing leftovers donated by important Italian luxury brands. Each piece is unique and hand made by women currently in prison, looking for a better future. The concept of positivity is also at the basis of the new Teaology Yoga Care line. The internal finish of the bags recalls the colour of the line, light blue which is a symbol of tranquillity that instils calm and lightens thoughts.

Rose Quartz Vibrating Roller “Lifting Effect” The ancient Chinese tool made from natural rose quartz crystals has been used in skincare rituals since the 7th century. It is designed to massage the face to relieve stress and tensions while promoting lymphatic drainage.

Teaology has now given it an additional booster: sonic vibration.

Massage is important because it stimulates the microcirculation, reduces swelling and makes skin more toned and radiant. With over 6000 sonic vibrations per minute, this innovative rose quartz face roller sculpts and visibly reshapes facial contours. It only takes a few minutes every day for great results. It firms, lifts and contours; improves the circulation and elasticity of the skin, enhances the skin’s natural glow, helps reduce puffiness, smooths out fine lines and wrinkles, improves the appearance of pores, boosts the absorption of skincare products and helps relieve facial muscle tension. The sonic vibrations amplify the benefits of traditional face rolling and skin feels more toned, lifted, sculpted and refreshed.

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COMPANY

Carrera

A HI-TECH MASK FROM THE DENIM COMPANY Carrera presents the unisex BLOC mask made from 100% cotton with the application of innovative multilayers of “Carbon Nanocluster NCN.” It is manufactured under licence from GAAP TECHNOLOGY OÜ. Anti-microbial, anti-particulate and with an ergonomic shape, it provides ultraeffective respiratory protection.

Protection from the transmission of droplets guaranteed

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NCN Carbon Nanoclusters have a high anti-particulate, antimicrobial and bacteriostatic activity. Carbon Nanoclusters are characterized by unique biological properties. They represent a bridge between atomic and molecular structures and bulk materials. The physical properties of the nanoclusters vary according to their size. Due to their nanometric dimensions, Carbon nanoclusters are extremely promising materials for the development of antimicrobial surfaces thanks to their antimicrobial contact activity. In efficacy tests, Carbon Nanoclusters interacted with bacteria in a cell trapping mechanism, made extremely efficient by their dimensional characteristics. Thanks to its panel design, it is foldable and easy to store and ultracomfortable to wear. Its effective filtration with low respiratory resistance means consistent high quality performance and the elastic border ensures a perfect fit. It can provide ultra-effective respiratory protection for use in areas where workers are exposed to dust particles and/or non-volatile liquid particles. The mask can be washed up to thirty times. It can be washed by hand or in a washing machine at a temperature of 40° with neutral soap and a low temperature active fabric sanitizer (max. 30°C) liquid and/or tabs. It can also be washed in an industrial washing boiler withy maximum saturated steam at 121°C and a maximum pressure of 1.1 bar for a maximum time of 15 minutes and without the use of chemical means such as hydrogen peroxide, ethylene oxide or peracetic acid.

EVENTS

Beautyworld New dates announced for

Middle East 2020 The show’s organiser Messe Frankfurt Middle East, said the new dates come after extensive feedback and consultation with the venue, exhibitors, visitors, trade partners and associations, as global governments continue to contain the spread of Covid-19.

Region’s largest beauty, hair, fragrances, and wellbeing exhibition to take from 23-25 November 2020 at the Dubai World Trade Centre

Beautyworld Middle East 2020 was initially postponed to run in August, however the potential of ongoing international travel restrictions, along with uncertainty around the virus’ trajectory meant the summer month was too soon for the show to take place. Elaine O’Connell, Beautyworld Middle East’s Show Director, said the vast majority of stakeholders supported the

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November dates, adding that plans are well underway to deliver a milestone event toward the end of the year. “Our first priority is to the health and safety of our exhibitors and visitors as the global beauty industry continues to navigate these challenging times,” said Mrs O’Connell. “We’re working hard to provide our valued customers the essential tools, knowledge, and business connections in November, and we’re committed to hosting another standout show.” Mrs O’Connell said all exhibitor contracts are still valid for Beautyworld Middle East 2020.

“The brand new Beautyworld Middle East Awards will spearhead a long list of special events this year, while Front Row, the Beauty Business Conference, Quintessence, and Nail It! will all return, ensuring trade buyers and beauty professionals alike are inspired, educated, informed and energised,” she said.

Beautyworld Middle East covers the six product groups of Hair, Nails, and Salon Suppliers; Cosmetics and Skincare; Personal Care and Hygiene; Machinery, Packaging, Raw Materials, and Contract Manufacturing; Fragrance Compounds and Finished Fragrances; and Natural and Organic.

The 1st Beautyworld Middle East Awards shortlisted 67 finalists out of more than 250 entries contesting 15 awards across 10 categories.

The winners will be celebrated at a dazzling, evening gala dinner event at the Ritz Carlton DIFC after the first

day of Beautyworld Middle East.

The three-day Front Row returns for its 2nd year with an interactive programme of live makeup and hair demonstrations, interspersed with bold shows presenting the biggest and best trends and innovations in global beauty.

Other regular popular features back in 2020 include the 5th edition of Quintessence, an exclusive showcase of niche perfumes, the Nail It! a nail art competition, and three-day Beauty Business Conference.

More information is available at: www.beautyworldme.com

EVENTS

2020 MEADFA Conference to be cancelled

At its meeting earlier this month, the Board of the Middle East & Africa Duty Free Association decided to cancel the 2020 MEADFA Conference. The event, set to take place on 23-24 November in Dubai, will not be held this year given the severe economic impact of the covid-19 pandemic on the global travel retail industry, as well as ongoing uncertainty surrounding travel restrictions.

As part of its mission to support the travel retail business in the Middle East, Africa and beyond, MEADFA will shortly launch a series of interactive online forums.

The webinars will present the viewpoint of the three key industry stakeholders in turn – retailers, brands and landlords.

MEADFA will also maintain its training event programme with a new e-learning format. Further information will be shared with MEADFA members soon.

In a further initiative to ease the challenges its members face, MEADFA has decided to defer membership fees for a year. MEADFA President Haitham Al Majali said: “After continuously monitoring the current health crisis and staying in close contact with our partners and delegates, we have decided to cancel this year’s MEADFA Conference. This was an extremely difficult decision to take, given the importance of the event and its role in supporting

our advocacy work, but the Board unanimously feels that it would not be appropriate to go ahead with the event in the current context.

We will continue to monitor the situation as it develops, before announcing the dates for our next conference. We thank our members, sponsors and business partners across the region for their understanding.” TFWA President Alain Maingreaud said: “MEADFA has the full support of TFWA at this challenging time for all of us in duty free and travel retail. We look forward to helping manage the rescheduled MEADFA Conference,

which will provide an overdue opportunity for our industry to gather and plan the recovery in the Middle East and Africa.”

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EVENTS

BeautyEurasia is postponed to June 16-18 2021

The date of the 16th International Cosmetics, Beauty & Hair Exhibition BeautyEurasia, which set trends in the beauty industry in Turkey by bringing together the latest products and domestic and international visitors and serves as the door of the beauty industry of Turkey opening into the world, is changed due to global COVID-19 pandemic dominating the world’s agenda. BeautyEurasia, which is recognized as the biggest beauty and cosmetics exhibition of the Eurasia region, was postponed on March 13, 2020, following the announcement by the Ministry of Trade concerning the COVID-19 pandemic. The date of the exhibition, which was previously revised to November 24-27, 2020, was finally set as June 16 - 18, 2021 after the meetings held especially with Hyve Group’s business partners, a large number of exhibitors, visitors, and stakeholders. In the past two months, BeautyEurasia held a lot of meetings with all its stakeholders that play a key role both in Turkey and in the international arena.

Within this period, given the current state of the world and Turkey, the importance of organizing an efficient and successful exhibition at the right time and under the healthiest conditions for all parties was once again reasserted.

The date of the 16th International Cosmetics, Beauty & Hair Exhibition - BeautyEurasia, which is to be held on November 25-27, 2020 is revised to June 16-18, 2021 to provide a healthier, more productive, and efficient exhibition experience for everyone given the strong demand from everybody

“Health, Productivity, and Efficiency are Our Top Priorities” Regional Director of Hyve Group, a global trade exhibition organizer that holds BeautyEurasia, emphasized that their top priority is to organize a healthy and efficient exhibition for all stakeholders, especially exhibitors and visitors. Ülgen continued his words as follows: “Our country has dealt with the pandemic successfully and important steps are being taken gradually toward normalization.” However, the global fight against the COVID-19 pandemic continues in full swing.

In 2019 the event hosted 11,786 visitors The Exhibition provides an efficient platform full of events for the promotion of new ideas and products by hosting discussions on global regional development areas of the sector and enabling the exchange of information. Welcoming 367 exhibitors from 33 countries and 11,786 visitors from 130 countries in 2019, the exhibition saw a 51% increase in the number of international visitors last year compared to 2018. These figures are expected to increase in 2021 depending on the domestic and international market dynamics are expected to boom.

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We previously postponed the BeautyEurasia, which serves as the door of the beauty industry of Turkey opening into Eurasia and the world, to November 24-27, 2020, and adopted the hygiene-and-health comes-first approach for our stakeholders and employees. Public health has and will always remain our number one priority.

Our other priorities include offering a successful, productive, and efficient exhibition experience for all parties.

After having a lot of meetings with all parties and evaluating the demands making a change in the date of Beauty Eurasia, we have decided that it would be best to reschedule the date of the exhibition once again. Our exhibition will be held on June 16-18, 2021. We will keep our exhibitors and the public informed of any global or local developments concerning the sector and our brand. BeautyEurasia, which will be organized by Hyve Group with the support of the Ministry of Trade, will continue to create new business, partnership, and purchasing opportunities for Turkey with its strong regional network.

16-18 June 2021

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The Beauty of Sustainability VALÉRIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY

Valérie Kaminov is Founder and Managing Director of the highly successful International Luxury Brand Consultancy based in London.

For over 20 years Valérie has been at the forefront of the global cosmetics industry and has worked with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances.

Her extensive expertise, commercial acumen and practical experience are much sought after by both iconic global brands and newly emerging talents.

Valérie’s wealth of knowledge in international growth strategies and business development is combined with an inspirational and forward-thinking approach.

Through her exceptional insight and understanding of the industry Valérie has helped brands amplify their market reach on an international scale, elevate their brand presence and improve their performance.

To her clients, she is more than a consultant, she is a trusted asset, advisor, partner and brand guardian.

Valérie ’s expertise in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth is particularly highly valued by Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors.

Her advanced qualifications and her proficiency in corporate governance have made her a much-desired Board Advisor and Non-Executive Director to well-established companies and pioneering Indie brands.

Valérie is also dedicated to passing her knowledge along through a range of conferences and events.

She has been a guest speaker at the non-profit organization CEW’ Mentoring Services where leading executives offer guidance and professional development support.

As the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) Master of Ceremony, Valérie organizes this influential conference in Europe; it has become a key global gathering for manufacturers, brand owners and distributors to come together to discuss the opportunities and challenges facing the industry and their businesses.

Sustainable beauty, this once niche trend has become a fact of life and now more than ever it is driving the choices of the global consumer This rise in awareness is very welcome to brands like Neal’s Yard Remedies who were one of the early forerunners of the sustainable movement. In 1981 when the brand was founded it was seen as unusual in talking about values, sustainability and provenance. Now they are not only one of the most respected pioneers of change but also for their advocacy in leading the way towards more sustainable practices.

As Susan Curtis, Natural Health Director Neal’s Yard Remedies explains, “Sometimes the growth in awareness has been slow and incremental as with an understanding of terms like biodiversity and climate change, other times there has been a sudden shift in consciousness as with the amazing Blue Planet series where David Attenborough played an incredibly important role in raising awareness of the plastic in the oceans problem literally overnight.”

In 2019, we saw an increasing number of beauty brands prioritising purpose and values to resonate with an ethically driven consumer base. Recent surveys have shown that 90% of consumers feel companies and brands should assume the responsibility to take care of the planet and the people. This conscious consumer is more aware of their impact on the wider world and how they can benefit the greater good, they expect brands to do the same. This fast-growing sector is particularly relevant when you look at the next generations. A recent Facebook report found 68% of Gen Zers expect brands to contribute to society, this younger market is particularly drawn to the agile, innovative smaller brands who they feel share their values and offer a strong sense of self-expression.

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From efficacy to ethics, this mindful customer has raised the bar in beauty. What was once an exception has become an expectation and cosmetic businesses have an important role to play. One that goes beyond products to every element that shapes our industry. These sustainability aware consumers scrutinize performance and socio-environmental behaviour before buying. How eco-efficient companies are has turned into a purchase qualification. Moving forward brands will be expected to go much further, to stand for something more than a great product - ethical consumerism requires ethical standards.

The success of the movement will be when we see positive economic, social, environmental and cultural practices built-in rather than as add-ons in the industry.

With some research, we can all make intelligent switches that don’t compromise on quality. It’s not just about negatively impacting the world but being a force for good.

What Does Sustainable Beauty Mean?

Around the world there are different standards for what sustainable beauty looks like, from ingredient sourcing and reusable packaging to green chemistry and circular economies; being a sustainable brand is a comprehensive commitment that can take time and effort to fully achieve. Of the dozens of eco-labels out there, most brands primarily focus on the areas of recyclable, cruelty-free, organic ingredients and certification for good business practices. One of the most rigorous accreditations is B Corp which uses the UN’s sustainability development goals as a benchmark with brands needing to achieve a minimum score on the environment, community, customers and workers impact assessments. The Body Shop, a pioneer in sustainable beauty is one of the few brands that are B Corp certified others include Dr. Bronner’s and Dr. Hauschka.

Susan Curtis, Neal’s Yard Remedies highlights the positive side of the movement.

“The phrase I like the most is that of a Regenerative Business – based on the idea that businesses can and should not only have a light footprint but actually do what they can to improve the world as they go along. It’s a question of always looking to be part of the solution, not add to the many problems that we face in the modern world. That approach is very empowering because one of the biggest problems I think is people feeling overwhelmed by the scale of the problems we face – so it’s very important to keep solution focussed on the small and the large issues.”

Why We Need Sustainability in the Beauty Industry We have all read the statistics in how the beauty industry contributes 120 billion units of packaging a year, and through its integral shipping processes more than 1 billion tons of CO2 a year. As much as 70% of plastic waste generated by personal care and beauty products isn’t recycled, it ends up in landfills. In the US alone 8 billion micro beads are released into sewers every day, while each year an estimated 8 million tons of plastic pollute the oceans endangering marine biodiversity. Although plastic pollution is the most visible sign of damage, one of the biggest threats to marine life ecosystems is suncream. Hawaii has been the first US state to ban suncream containing coral-harming chemicals such as oxybenzone and octinoxate which comes into effect on 1st Jan 2021. Brands like Caudalie and Coola are part of the Blue Beauty trend where limiting plastic wastage and protecting our oceans from chemicals is a key priority.

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Vasiliki Petrou, Chairman CEW UK & EVP and Group CEO of Unilever Prestige

T Many industry bodies around the world are demonstrating a strong and driving commitment to the movement. In 2019, the theme for the internationally renowned beauty fair Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna was ‘Sustainable Beauty: With No Compromise”. Their ‘Impact for Beauty Report’ is a must-read for anyone in the industry as it explores how small changes that everyone can make can help achieve a larger scale worldwide transformation of the beauty business.

The influential organisation CEW (Cosmetics Executive Women) has long championed the need for action. “Our industry “has” to be a force for good when it comes to these important issues,” Vasiliki Petrou, Chairman CEW UK and EVP Unilever Prestige. “We as brands, are in a powerful position to lead change. However, I truly believe that to make some of the social impact changes so desperately needed the industry must come together, we can’t be competitors when it comes to sustainability and this is where CEW is such a driving force.”

This priority focus by industry bodies, beauty giants, independent brands, retailers and distributors is reflective of how the world of beauty is taking up the reins of responsibility to act.

Science has become a key transformation driver as through biotechnology innovation as well as the use of green chemistry in formulations more sustainable options are continually evolving. The increase in biocompatible lab-grown alternatives is leading to new materials emerging that straddle natural and engineered. One Ocean Beauty source through blue biotechnology rather than harvesting from the oceans. It is also leading to the development of more synthetics to be used as substitutes to naturally grown ingredients. Although some feel it is a grey area to create chemical alternatives to plants, others feel it is an environmentally responsible option.

Many sustainable brands are very conscious of the dangers of over-harvesting natural ingredients, particularly from the wild. Some such as Neal’s Yard Remedies are supporters of the FairWild scheme that ensures a fair price for collectors and sustainable harvesting. “With cultivated ingredients, there are some hard choices to be made but I do believe it is possible to always look to sustainable options,” Susan Curtis, Neal’s Yard Remedies, “organic cultivation for example has been proven to produce more drought resistant crops than convention agriculture, locks more carbon in the soil and improves rather than degrades soil fertility.” Curtis also highlights the potential of switching out ingredients to avoid ones such as almond oil which needs a lot of water in its production, for apricot kernel oil which is generated from an existing food crop.

A Global Movement Around the world sustainable beauty is rapidly becoming a mainstream player, different markets are at different levels of maturity but there is no doubt it is here to stay. In the UK, the Soil Association’s 2020 Organic Market report for Beauty & Wellbeing found that for the 9th consecutive year there had been double digit growth by sustainable brands. The report also looks at the buying behaviour of consumers and found the following:

• 79% of people are more likely to buy a beauty product labelled “organic” • 92% said choosing an organic beauty product would make them feel

they are

making a positive choice

• 82% felt they would be doing the right thing for the environment • 56% look for certification logos to support them with their choices • 69% are looking for products with recyclable packaging

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In the US, natural products were the top growth contributor in the prestige skincare sector and ‘clean’ beauty was the most prominent trend with these brands experiencing a 20% year-on-year dollar growth. Europe is one of the leading markets when it comes to ethical beauty not just in consumption but brand innovation.

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Green beauty might be in its infancy in some parts of Asia but it is growing quickly and powerfully, even overcoming the price sensitivity issue which tends to occur with the associated higher price tag. India is another country that is showing a gravitational move towards organic and natural, this is partially in response to the wider internet access that has led to an enhanced focus on beauty and social consciousness. Digital discovery and the rise of the ‘Instabrand’ has elevated the importance of sustainability in beauty all around the world. Post Covid-19 these numbers are likely to increase as the pandemic has made us think more of the health of the planet along with people.

Salons and retailers have also responded to the demand for more sustainable brands and have increased their availability. Transparency is key as consumers are much more aware of false claims and now seek certification with their purchase.

This point highlights a key challenge the industry is facing as currently the EU and FDA have no legal definition of natural beauty products which means brands can greenwash or tout natural ingredients with little oversight or regulation.

Brands that use their voice to bring attention to sustainability are experiencing double digit growth. Incorporating transparency, social awareness and ecological initiatives into your brands DNA is driving growth.

Beauty Meets Activism With the collective environmental conscience growing, opportunities are evolving for retailers, beauty brands, cosmetic companies and their supply chains to go green, or in some cases greener.

Indie brands recognised for their creativity and purpose are setting the standards in impactful beauty. Companies like Scentered, Beauty Kitchen, Sana Jardin and Kadalys that tackle the environmental and social issues and deliver great product are capturing both the headlines and the market share.

We are also seeing more and more forward thinking formulas using ingredients from waste by-products as beauty brands explore how to repurpose usually discarded food waste into sustainable products. What started with the simple idea of incorporating coffee grounds into facial scrubs is evolving into a new generation of brands demonstrating how to shorten a supply chain with great end results. The dilemma of packaging is addressed by brands such as Lush Handmade Cosmetics with their “naked skincare”, while US brand Apothecary Muse wrap their soaps in ‘plantable’ paper which is embedded with wildflower seeds. Other ideas include refillable incentive schemes, recycled, recyclable or bio-sourced primary and secondary packaging whilst also reducing the amount used. The Body Shop has tackled the tricky issue of single use products with their Drops of Youth Concentrate Sheet Mask which is not just biodegradable but compostable too.

Retailers are driving the movement further. French chain Monoprix carefully consider the sustainable and ecological credentials of new beauty brands.

Marie Laird, Beauty Director Monoprix, current buying philosophy is centred on brands that demonstrate innovation particularly in the clean, organic and green category. Zero waste and fair trade practices are also of primary importance in her decisions. Two highlighted brands are Mademoiselle Saint Germain, created in partnership with the King’s Versailles Garden of Vegetables, uses only French ingredients and every production celebrates being a unique vintage as even if the formulation remains the same the ingredients offer a new sensoriality each time. The other is On the Wild Side which creates its organic and 100% natural cosmetics from wildcrafting, a way of collecting plants from the unspoilt and powerful natural environment, in this case the French forests.

These inspiring businesses exemplify the authenticity and provenance that so often characterizes the latest wave of sustainable beauty. So important is the category to Monoprix that they are adding to their private label offering with a new sustainably focused range.

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T The beauty giants have also taken up the cause with all of them publishing their policies on waste reduction, respecting biodiversity, reducing water consumption and other sustainable goals. One of the leaders is Unilever who are very clear about the importance of sustainability, and as an organisation they have made some big pledges and commitments. Within their portfolio, they have REN Clean Skincare who has this commitment entwined deeply in their DNA. “The Unilever Sustainability Living Promise was launched 10 years ago now, so it’s been part of the Prestige strategy since conception. Amazing progress has been made and it’s inspiring to belong to a company so committed to making change, not just for themselves but to the industry as a whole.” Vasiliki Petrou, EVP Unilever Prestige.

The fragrance sector is responding as well. Recently launched French brand pH Fragrances is founded on a vision to design a new generation of premium perfumed home and beauty products that reflect the highest values of quality, eco-friendly, sustainable sourcing and production as well as being made in France.

“Our commitment to the local economy is total.” Camille Le Feuvre, Founder pH Fragrances “We work with 20 French partners, from packaging to production, through formulations to marketing everything is done in France. It makes more sense to have your products made in France, rather than having products go around the world before arriving in our bathrooms, it is better for the carbon footprint too.

We are transparent on what is inside our products, how it is done, where it is done.”

Le Feuvre invested two years of research and development to ensure her products offer an exceptional level of transparency that goes beyond the normal regulations when it comes to banned controversial ingredients.

Brand Spotlight: Kadalys French brand Kadalys is emblematic of the meaningful difference sustainable beauty can make. Founder Shirley Billot’s vision was not just to create a beauty brand built on ethical and environmental values, she wanted to have a business that supported and developed agriculture in her native Martinique, to provide a channel for growth and empowerment particularly for black women in the French West Indies, she wanted to scientifically develop a range ‘with no exclusions’ in that every skin type and colour could benefit from using them and she wanted to ensure her brand would positively contribute to the future.

Brand identity, ingredient innovation, purpose and heritage are all intertwined with the shared goal of social, economic, cultural and environmental sustainability.

Growing up in Martinique Billot was very aware of the importance of the banana industry to the people and the economy; she was also conscious of the high levels of waste, as each year almost 270,000 tons of bananas are transported to Europe, approximately 15% will never be sold as damaged.

Shirley Billot, Founder Kadalys

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Alongside this understanding was the knowledge that the Banana Tree plant is very well known for its cosmetic, healing and wellbeing benefits.

These facts in combination with Billot’s natural entrepreneurship, activism (in many ways inherited from her parents), community values and a desire to do something positive led to the foundation of Kadalys.

“Through Kadalys, I wanted to create Ethical Cosmetics with no compromise between high performance, naturalness and citizen engagement.” Shirley Billot, Founder Kadalys.

Knowing that different parts of the Banana Tree plant had different benefits, Billot commissioned an in-depth research programme that resulted in the development of proprietary active ingredients from the yellow, green and red banana to create a unique line of conscious, caring cosmetics that is also clean, organic and vegan and very importantly formulated through green chemistry. Unlocking the banana’s beauty and health potential through pioneering innovation has enabled her to use the waste banana and transform them into a quality skin care product – good for the skin and good for the environment.

A key value of Kadalys is their social responsibility, as Billot regards all the Martinique banana producers as her business partners who act together to optimize resources through a participatory Circular Economy. The Circular Economy model and values are fundamental to the operations, strategy and culture of her brand. For the last 10 years, the agriculture model in Martinique has focused on promoting biodiversity and respecting the fragile balance between man and nature.

This partnership also strengthens the traceability, quality and safety of the banana, the main cosmetic ingredient. Furthermore, Kadalys redistributes 1% of its turnover to the banana sector to help finance research programmes to promote new reasoned farming systems and to intensify varietal research. Additionally, Billot is passionate about increasing employment on the islands including supporting education in areas such as science and technology, she recently sponsored two young women from Guadaloupe and Martinique to train in the scientific field. Future plans are focused on growing the business globally, from resourcing to retail Kadalys is set to have a much wider presence.

Shirley Billot is representative of this new breed of influential cosmetics founder and beauty activist, her vision goes beyond the holistic to one that is committed, progressive, gives back, shares and preserves others. It is little wonder that Kadalys has been recognised with a wealth of awards and Billot’s own powerful commitment to promoting innovation and sustainable management of the planet’s resources has led her to be honoured in 2017 by the President of the French Republic, with the “Knight of the Order of Merit”, the second national French Order.

Some Thoughts on Sustainable Beauty Post Covid-19 “I think it’s our responsibility to make sure sustainability stays a priority. Unilever remain committed to reducing virgin plastic by 2023, with a long-term goal of being 100% recyclable, reusable or compostable by 2025.” Vasiliki Petrou, EVP Unilever Prestige “For us, it remains vital that we reach or exceed, our sustainability pledges, and I’m pleased to say we’re on track. In fact, Tatcha recently announced they will become 100% reusable, refillable, recyclable or compostable by 2023.”

“There is the recognition of just what enormous changes society can make when it puts its mind to it and how can we use the example of the Covid response to some of the massive environmental and social challenges we have.” Susan Curtis, Natural Health Director Neal’s Yard Remedies.

Being a responsible brand involves many challenges, sustainable sourcing of raw ingredients, energy consumption, waste management and carbon footprint of the production chain, biodegradability, lack of toxicity and corporate social responsibility.

It seems daunting but it is better to address one part of the problem than do nothing, we all must contribute to finding a solution.

For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you expand your brand, please contact us on info@ilbc.co.uk or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk

FLASH/NEWS

NASTRITEX AN INNOVATIVE MASK Thanks to its know-how in the creation of fabrics for make-up, NastriTex has created a special new division for masks

LUXE PACK MONACO POSTPONES ITS 2020 EDITION TO NOVEMBER 30th, DECEMBER 1st and DECEMBER 2nd, 2020

Initially scheduled on September 28th, 29th and 30th, 2020, the packaging show for luxury products is now moved to November 30th, December 1st and 2nd, 2020.

ADAPT AND EXEMPLIFY THE IMPORTANCE TO MOVE OUR BUSINESS FOWARD LUXE PACK Monaco has established itself internationallyfor years as the largest gathering of packaging suppliers. They are selected for their ability to follow the requirements of the most demanding and creative brands. As the stage for numerous launches each year, the show is a perfect business platform for all brands. They can find large-scale displays and technical viewpoints to feed their inspiration and provide avant-garde industrial solutions. The Covid-19 outbreak delayed the cycles of launches for many packaging manufacturers and luxury brands. This is why LUXE PACK has decided to support the industry and acknowledge this delay. The new dates of November 30th, December 1st and 2nd, 2020 at the Grimaldi Forum will allow the entire community to be aligned and to promote business recovery of the industry. Postponing the show will also enable the industry to benefit from the increased reopening of borders.

NastriTex is a leader is providing innovative solutions and laboratory services to the world’s major cosmetic companies.

In this public health emergency, NastriTex has decided to set up a new special NastriTex division, devoted to the creation and production of reliable approved surgical masks with their tested and certified textiles, safe for the skin.

With its continuing focus on the social impact of its business, NastriTex wants to contribute to the protection of health and safety with its new Italian-made product.

The initial production target will be 10,000 pieces per week, but it has plans to rapidly reach the amount of 100,000 masks per week.

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AN EDITION UNDER THE SIGN OF MODERATION AND EFFICIENCY The Covid-19 pandemic was an unforeseen event that adversely affected businesses around the world. Due to this, the show management wants to focus on moderation for this Edition. As an alternative to the traditional constructed booth, an inventory of turnkey booths, simple and highquality, will be available. The 2020 Edition will be more diligent and efficient for our community. The show management will make all rooms of the Grimaldi Forum available to brands. It will give them an opportunity to take advantage of the trip to organize workshops with suppliers and partners (project reviews, presentations, etc.) in a safe and confidential environment.

LUXE PACK and its 470 selected exhibitors will offer an inspiring traditional show, with safe and confidential meeting spaces: an ultra-efficient working platform for brands striving to save precious time for their current and future developments. In addition, the show management will maintain the exceptional measures announced previously, such as discounted pricing to most hotels. A digital platform will be added to the show during the 3 days, to give additional visibility and leads to exhibitors on a global scale. This tool will bring together all LUXE PACK communities (Monaco, New York, Los Angeles and Shanghai). It will considerably highlight the content of the show as well: product launches, innovations, trends and interviews with experts, etc.

STRICT HEALTH MEASURES The show management and the Grimaldi Forum is setting up a system that complies with the highest levels of hygiene and health security, starting from Nice Airport to the venue. Our goal is to provide a safe and welcoming experience.

With all of these pro-active initiatives tailored to the current situation, LUXE PACK 2020 is planning a pivotal Edition to accelerate the recovery of the industry.

launch

LUMSON The european leading company in designing , developing and manufacturing complete primary packaging solutions for the cosmetic market, presents TOUCHLESS: the evolution of airless

Airless and Dispensing Systems These systems have always been the company’s main focus, with an offer of integrated and personalized solutions. Airless systems present several advantages which set them apart: • protection of the products from contact with the air, avoiding any possible environmental contamination; • reduction of the risk of oxidation and external contamination with the product; • suit for all types of formulas and consistent product dosing guaranteed.

“Touchless”, the evolution of airless

Lumson: a leader since 1975 Situated in the heart of Italy’s Cosmetic Valley with its headquarters in Capergnanica (Cremona), Lumson has recently acquired Leoplast and Belotti, two companies operative in the lipstick and compact case segments. Today the company offers a complete range of skincare, body care, and make-up solutions. With Technology and creativity in its DNA, Lumson closed the year 2019 with a turnover of over 100 million euro.

Thanks to the unceasing commitment of R&D dpt. together with its Center of Excellence, Lumson gave the Airless System a new added value with a new approach: “Touchless”, the evolution of the classic airless.

• Inviolability of the product (Lumson patent) • Ability to separate different materials, allowing for the various components of the packaging to be recycled appropriately • Gradual deflation of the pouch as product is dispensed until it is completely finished • The pouch is available in mono or multi-layers according to the product type and viscosity.

The Touchless family includes ranges with sustainable packaging as glass, plastic (PP and PET) and new solutions in alternative materials are going to be presented soon.

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FLASH/NEWS

TWO NEW FRAGRANCES TO THE SUMMER LOCHERBERCELEBRATE The magic of Venice and the charm of Capri have inspired the two new home fragrances by Locherber for this summer Venetiæ is as fresh as a sea breeze and as sensual as the oriental spices brought to a unique city in the world. Top marine-infused and citrus notes of bergamot and lemon develop into floral and Mediterranean aromas of lavender and myrtle and sea algae, ending in woody and musk base notes.

The bottle is also a tribute to the city with the iconic Locherber T2 cap, this time created from the “briccole”, the poles used in Venice to limit the navigable canals. The elegant blue bottle is painted by hand, making the diffuser an object of elegant and exclusive design.

Capri Blue is the encounter of sky and sea, as inebriating as a Mediterranean garden.

This tribute to the “pearl of the Mediterranean” captures the intense and enveloping notes of the Mediterranean maquis together with citrus notes and the floral scents of orange blossom, accented by cardamom and tea leaves with a sweet and sensual base of caramelized vanilla and white musk.

The elegant hand-painted blue bottle has the new fabric label which recalls the famous majolica tiles of Capri.

The T2 cap in Azul Paradise marble is the exquisite detail that gives the object its elegance and exclusivity.

INUIT

BY LOCHERBER MILANO: MOUNTAIN AIR IN A ROOM

From the brand that has made home fragrance an art, Inuit is the new fresh, floral and green fragrance that has all the effervescence and purity of mountain air. Its fresh air accent is thanks to Ferula Gummosa, also known as galbanum, which produced a particularly perfumed resinous gum which in turn produces the essential oil with intense scents of cut grass and conifer bark.

The name Inuit pays tribute to the Eskimo people, with an inebriating fragrance that refreshes the mind and the senses and leaves a sparkling sensation of cleanliness in the air. The top notes are citrus, with bergamot and orange blossom, evolving into the botanical scents of green tea, galbanum and blackcurrant, concluding in a woody and sweet base of sandalwood and musk.

The bottle is made from hand-painted glass with a T2 cap in varnished ash and Canaletto walnut (for the large sizes of 2,500 and 5,000 ml) with a steel name plate.

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I-24050 Mozzanica (BG) Via E. Mattei, 17/c tel. +39/0363-032011 www.artcosmetics.it - info@artcosmetics.it Artdeco Artdeco Cosmetic Group Gaussstrasse 13 D-85757 Karlsfeld tel. +49/8131-390100 - fax +49/8131 390129 Aubade - Montana Parfums Montana - Empire of Scents 4, Place Wagram F-75017 Paris tel +33-1/42650072 fax +33-1/42650074 Alain Delon Art & Fragrance SA Jaguar - Lalique Bühlstrasse 1 Nikki Beach Parfums Grès CH-8125 Zollikerberg - Switzerland Ultrasun Direct +41-43/4994532 Phone +41-43/4994500 fax +41-43/4994502 www.art-fragrance.com Alessandro Dell’Acqua Euroitalia s.r.l.

Dsquared2 - Missoni Via G. Galilei, 1 Moschino - John Richmond I-20040 Cavenago Brianza (MI) Joseph Abboud tel. +39-02/95916.1 Naj Oleari - Versace fax +39-02/95916500 Amarena Eurostyle s.p.a.

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Paglieri 1876 S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 Pink Sugar I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 fax +39-0131/6186663 Armand Basi - Angel Schlesser IDESA-Angelini Group Custo - Joaquín Cortés Via Augusta, 59-9 Mandarina Duck - Yekipé E-08006 Barcelona tel. +34-93/2920891 - fax +34-93/2176881 Axis - Hoops - Elanzia INCC Group Esprit de Versailles 85, avenue de Saint Cloud Mercedes-Benz F-78000 Versailles Monaco - Yujin tel. +33/1-39670671 fax + 33/1-39670672 www.inccgroup-parfums-com Balmain Parfums - Celine Interparfums Lanvin - Paul Smith - Roxi 4 Rond Point del Champs Elysées Van Cleef & Arpels F-75008 Paris Jimmy Choo - Mont Blanc tel. +33/1-53770000 fax +33/1-53763626 B.Kolor B.Kolormakeup & Skincare s.p.a.

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Boutique Cale’

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Via S. Maria Podone, 5 - I-20123 Milano tel. +39/02-76002494 - fax +39/02-76009407 ww.cale.it - s.levi@cale.it Cofinluxe 6, Rue Anatole de la Forge F-75017 Paris tel. +33-1/55377172 - fax +33-1/46229827 Collistar s.p.a.

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I-23020 Area Industriale - Gordona (SO) tel. +39/0343-42011 - fax +39/0343 42000 www.confaloniericosmetica.com confaloniericosmetica.com Beauty San s.p.a.

Via Rimini, 37 - I-59100 Prato tel. +39-0574/43891 - fax +39-0574/438940 www.beautysan.net Farmeco Head Office: 11 Ag. Glykerios Str. GR-11147 Athens, Greece tel. +30-20/2131701 - fax +30-20/2136036 Branch Office: Strada 6 Palazzo P1 Milano Fiori - I-20089 Rozzano (MI) tel. +39-02/89200150/167 fax +39-02/89200371 Cosmetica s.r.l.

Via S. Carlo 28 I-40023 Castel Guelfo (BO) tel. +39-0542/670911 - fax +39-0542/670911 Gold I-20131 Milano - Via Filippo Lippi 10 tel. +39/02_795862 www.goldmilano.it - info@goldmilano.it Enrico Gi Fragrances Via della Tecnica, 32 I-37066 Sommacampagna (VR) tel. +39/045-8960480 fax +39/045-8960482 www.enricogifragrances.com info@enricogifragrances.com Eurocosmesi Via Gobetti, 4 I-40050 Funo di Argelato (BO) tel. +39-051/6649238 fax +39-051/6649248

Sodip 21, Boulevard Montmartre F-75002 Paris - France tel. +33-1/40262020 - fax +33-1/42210888 Fedua Cosmetics Via Moretto 27 - I-25122 Brescia tel. +39/030-2590833 commerciale@fedua.com - www.fedua.com Giorgio Jäneke s.r.l.

I-20050 Veduggio (MI) tel. +39-0362/911010 a.r. fax +39-0362/911100 HSA GROUP S.p.A. Via Ugo Foscolo, 27 I-21050 Bisuschio (VA) tel. +39/0332-476554 fax +39/03332-850307 hsa@hsacosmetics.com www.hsacosmetics.com Diamond International s.r.l.

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La Closerie des Parfums

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L’Erbolario

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V.le delle Industrie 10/5 I-20020 Arese (MI) tel. +39/02 935 80 479 fax +39/02 935 81 022 www.cosvality.com Lubin 3, rue du Roule F-75001 Paris tel: +33-1/40677009 fax +33-1/45021316 Lumson S.p.A. Via Tesino, 62-64 I-26010 Capergnanica (CR) tel. +39/0373-2331 fax +39-0373-233355 www.lumson.com lumson@lumson.com M:PLUS Cosmetics Via Unità d’Italia, 9/11 I-20065 Inzago (MI) www.mascaraplus.com info@mascaraplus.com Mavive S.p.A. Via Altinia, 298/B I-30173 Venezia (Dese) tel. +39-041/5417771 fax +39-041/5417798 MI-in Paris 102, rue des Poissonniers F-75018 Paris tel. +33/6-65299995 www.mirecosmetics.com etremosa@mi-in.kr Parfums Molinard 60, boulevard Victor Hugo F-06130 Grasse tel. +334-92423322 fax +334-89123068 export@molinard.com www.molinard.com Nesti Dante s.r.l.

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Via Pietro Nenni, 26/28 I-50019 Sesto Fiorentino (FI) tel. +39/055.4212240 www.teatrofragranzeuniche.it info@teatrofragranzeuniche.it

2nd Exhibition for Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair

Home Care, Private Label, Packaging, Ingredients

ICC - Istanbul Congress Center - Taksim, Istanbul - Turkey

www.beauty-istanbul.com Tel: +90 212 2229060

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+90 533 4843030

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info@beauty-istanbul.com

Organizer

PH. SUSI BELIANSKA

A S T R A M A K E U P , 1 9 8 8 , U M B R I A , I TA LY