9 LIPSTICKS, 1 EVOLUTION
Mujun Zhang
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The secret of beauty is simple, be who you are.
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-Bobbi Brown-
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Explore more ...
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INTRODUCTION The changing of generation witnessed the shifting trend of cosmetics industry. There is one brand stood out in the river of beauty history which has become a symbol of one types of makeup. This visual essay will explain Bobbi Brown's influence on the evolution of makeup from "more-is-more" to "less-ismore" and used different marketing strategies to impact the market in different fields in visual ways such as its “Be Who You Are� campaign 4
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which showed how the understated make up would influence a women’s look. This will go from contrasting the changing of cosmetics history before and after the appearance of Bobbi Brown, then divide and illustrate how Bobbi influence it in 3 steps. The visual landscape is a key part in the modern time. It is the essence of a brand that represent the core idea and characteristics of them. It is also the most direct way for people to know a brand from
a visual advertising. Recently, it moves to social media part more, rather than traditional advertising on TV or billboard because the rise of internet. The brand launch and promote their activity through the increasingly social media platforms. Therefore, the use of social media is another topic to discuss in this essay, for Bobbi Brown, it has got a success by using online beauty classes, which would be a trend in the market.
"Beauty is a life-long evolution." -Bobbi Brown-
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Launch the concept of
“natural beauty" 5
Before Bobbi Brown
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1980s, the generation when everything is possible to touch. The colorful and bright makeup with strong definition of eye shadow and blush was a symbol of that time. Alex Nursall (2016) states that, "power dress was a trend, which means that you had to got a power look to go along with it, "Globally, the trends leaned towards a “more-is-more aesthetic." Nursall said.
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However, an opposite voice which stood “less-is-more” came in the fashion world by Bobbi Brown, a professional makeup artist. She opened her namesake brand which leads a new generation of “natural look” in 1991.
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Above: For the whole picture, the women did not gaze on the camera, but gave a strong natural skin stone. sight and a profile face with the delicate Eyes: smoky eyes in bright colors like purple, blue, orange along with dark eyeliner, makeup look, which was correspond to her shining ear rings, the whole face denotes the in both upper and lower to get a dramatic thought of power and elegance. This is also a look. Blushers: blushers were no more natural reference to the history background in 1980s look, but prefer bright colors such as pink and when women has got more power and rights in that eimw, they wanted to stand out by orange. using the cosmetics, as well as the clothing, Lips: The brighter the better. for example, the big shoulder pads. 7
Face: one or two shades lighter than their
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After Bobbi Brown
Bobbi stood out in the era defined by unnatural beauty by developing a series of brown lipsticks with a chemist: “a lipstick that looked like lips, only better”. After the success of Bobbi’s company, the neutral makeup back to the public eye and created a new wave which influence a great number of cosmetic company changed their branding to a natural impression.
Face:The foundation matched
to women's original tones. Eyes: soft and earthy color. Blushers: No dramatic color any more, but a thick line of blush along the cheekbones to enhance the original contour of face.
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Lips: Lip liners in 1990 was
very brown because of the influence of Bobbi Brown’s lipsticks, which was perfect to enhance women’s own lip tones.
"Beauty begins the moment when you decide start being yourself." -Coco ChanelFig.12
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Above: From the picture, the
foundation matched to the model’s original tones and did not cover the mole at the corner of mouth, she left out the sophisticated clothing and makeup, but naked and lie on the sofa. She ran her fingers through the tousled with the blurred eyes symbolizes thoughts of sexy as well as female’s natural beauty comes from the inside out without the overdone look by cosmetic.
This printed advertising was totally different from that in 1980s. It is a change of generation but also influenced by Bobbi Brown’s theory: “The secret of beauty is simple, be who you are”. As a result, 1990s withdraws a return of soft makeup with Matte eye shadow and lip. Bobbi simplified women’s face looking with her easy-use products.
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‘ How I feel about myself is more important than how I look. Feeling confident, being comfortable in your own skin – that’s what really makes you beautiful.’ -Bobbi Brown-
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2.
Promote the concept from
offline to online market
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Above: This picture was found from Bobbi Brown’s facebook page which was shoot from its 25th anniversary. They uploaded all their online and offline activities to their facebook, Instagram and other social media platforms on time in order to connect their offline market with online consumers. 13
Despites the influence on branding, for the marketing side, Bobbi is also owns her strategy in order to attract customers. The society is always impacted by the diverse new technique, by utilize this trend, Bobbi has begun to promote the brand by using technological things. It can be divided into offline and online part in this situation.
In order to connect the online and offline market, Bobbi chose to use digital things in the stores.
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For the offline part, Bobbi used not only the printed advertisement and sellers, but also some more digital signage which can be seen in every stores. It contains big screens to play video of their latest advertisement or beauty lesson leads by Bobbi Brown, as well as some more smaller touch screens in front of core and newest products. On these screens, clients are able to discover the detailed information and some complementary products on their own. Furthermore, people can know brand’s online activities and campaigns on the touch screens as well. For example, when Bobbi Brown launched it Smoky Eyes series, they stared a campaign called “Smoking Hot” as well to called on their customers to upload their own smoky makeup look on their office page and got chance to win the gift. By using the touch screen, customers can first choose Soft, Dramatic or Fun Smokey eyes and then look the corresponding makeup video. Through the whole process, the newest products and other complementary goods is always accompanying by the video and appear in the background. These potential visual display is much better than the poster and verbal description, they empower customers’ in-store experience and reinforce the brand identity in the same time, and it cannot be denied that the vivid video with technical experience assist shoppers in making purchasing decisions.
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Right: It can be seen from the picture that the store is consist of printed posters and screens on the wall, also they have detailed shows how to use and combine the products in a whole look and make them have an inseparable relation with each other. This
is Bobbi’s another method that to give customer a comprehensive guide when they shopping, not only sell the products, but also give them a reason and let them choose one goods which is most suitable for themselves.
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10.05.2016 Bobbi Around The World
04.26.2016 The Best Bridal Beauty Moves Fig.21
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09.16.2016 Bobbi's Guide to New Jersy Fig.23
03.28.2016 My Spring Break Essentials
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For online part, she used various social media such as Facebook, Instagram, twitter etc. The closer with the customer, the quicker improve of their brand, because they can justify their products and promotion tools by the comment on these social medias which is more convenience and sufficient.
All the pictures on here were all come from the blog called “Everything Bobbi” launched by Bobbi Brown, it post not only the make up products, or how to make Bobbi look, but also tell people how they can live the Bobbi’s lifestyle. As the blog introduction say, “A blog based on truth, beauty and being amazing”, there are diverse content types and showed them
visually with at leat 5 pictures alone one article on this space. For example, the personal picture of Bobbi, the culture and celebrities new as well as the travel and beauty tips. There was not too much direct advertised message of their products on it, but the information on it all show a positive living pattern that inspire women to have a good life just like Bobbi has.
Obviously Bobbi do the further connection with their customers again which would influence their competitors to imitate this strategy in order to give their brand a rich culture and vivid personality and relationship.
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"Confidence is true beauty" -BOBBI BROWN-
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REINFORCE THE CONCEPT BY
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Launching Campaign and Do Content Innovation
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"I believe that beauty comes in all ages, colors, shapes and sizes. Its not about looking like someone else on trying to be someone you’re not. Its about figuring out what works for you. " -Bobbi Brown-
Under: This graph came from the advertising of new foundation series. The composition of the picture highlight the women’s face especially her skin stone by cutting the figure from the neck down. The special thing is, this picture improves the sharpness degree much more than the normal figures, which even shows each pores clearly as well as the eyebrow and eyelashes. It shows a natural face of a women after the using of its products rather than over beautify the face, so the whole picture deliver a concept that Bobbi is always focus on “be who you are”.
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Launching Campaign
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"Beauty isn't about looking perfect. It's about celebrating your individuality. -Bobbi Brown-
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Right: From these bust shot, it can be seen that they invited women from different age groups and from all walks of life, also has different skin color. They gave a strong and confident sight direct to the camera. It did not show to much clothing, but just focus on their face, their individual look.
Based on the environment worldly, the cultural diversity makes the cosmetics market richer than before, and the beauty trend has become dazzled and changed quickly. Bobbi think it is not the true beauty if women blindly pursuit these trend and imitated them. She states that, everyone is individuals, we do not need to try to be like everybody else, just be yourself. In 2014, when Bobbi Brown celebrated its 25th anniversary, they launched a new campaign which is based on their mantra: a woman can look like herself
only prettier by using the correct makeup, tools and theories, called “Be Who You Are� in order embraces the brand’s past, present and future and also attract the potential new customer. The whole campaign transfers the goal that every skin tone and feature made a huge difference between each other, cherish it and enjoy the different, that brings peaceful when you are finally comfortable on your skin.
Under: This girl comes from India who has the sense of inferiority of her nose in the past but she became self-confidence at last when she finishes her makeup look with Bobbi Brown. Her expierence show the brand's original intention again that to empower young girls feel good about how different they are.
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Content Innovation
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These pictures are Bobbi Brown's beach series which Fig.35 is focus on holiday products. It is also one part of Bobbi's content innovation stratgey.
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Besides the successful
campaign,Bobbi Brown also made some effort in order to get in touch with customer’s life: they did content innovation. To be more specific, they used the current event such as the British royal’s wedding as a topic and then launched the lifestyle product such as Bobbi Bridal series to give their brand various entry points to join in everybody’s life. Fig.36
Bobbi Brown was responsible to the royal wedding in 2011
The makeup artist Hannah Martin from the brand provided makeup assistance to the bride. 2.5 billion people were all see how pretty and how confident she was. It is also can be seen that Kate’s makeup all defined as Bobbi Brown’s signature style. For instance, the flawless skin, the soft blush and the brown eyebrow. It can not be denied that the whole makeup was suitable for that solemn occasion, she looked like herself but much more pretty and demure. Fig.37
" The secret to perfect wedding day makeup is to look like you but at your
absolute best. -Hannah Martin-
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After the huge event, Bobbi Brown launched another activity called “Looking for the Next Bobbi’s Bride�, this event attracted thousands of women to join and Bobbi finally chose one pair to be their lead role in the brochure which is used to give makeup tips for women in the big day. It cannot be neglected that the wedding is a
place that show the most beautiful, happiness and confident woman. When women chose to join in this campaign, that means they trust this brand so much and like to share the most important day with Bobbi Brown. In some ways, this activity is better than the classic marketing strategy because they let people to know the brand
by themselves. It can be expected that there will be more customers to chose Bobbi Brown on their weddings after this activity and that would gain a bigger market share for Bobbi in the future.
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" I don’t need to be the first. I just need to be the best. -Bobbi Brown-
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Right: This picture came from Bobbi Brown’s foundation series. The close-up lens of face made audience to pay attention to her makeup which was just a few makeup but beautiful. For the model herself, she stroked her chin and show a little skin of her shoulder, as well as the soft eyes to the camera, that make the model looks reserve, confident and sexy. For the background color, the brown matched her hair and skin stone as well as the shadow made by light. Overall, this poster gave audience a sense of inner beauty which is decorated by the natural makeup.
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Conclusion The success of this brand is definitely not an accident.
Bobbi Brown appeared in a watershed for era which the lifestyle was changing by the history so much. To be more specific, after the economic and crime crised in the late 1980s, unemployment really impacted people at that time. Therefore, the makeup trend in 90s was more toned down look while women preferd fast result makeup products. It can be said that Bobbi Brown was just after their own heart. After that grunge era, the society has developed well since 2000s, women changed their cosmetics need to a more groomed and polished image which is not looks excessive but more “real life� because of the rising feminism in this period. Women has had more power in the society, the busy work and fast speed of life pushed them to have a easy but confident look everyday, which is Bobbi’s specialty again.
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Fig.44
Bobbi Brown did not so much
make a generation, but a product of it.
In conclusion, Bobbi Brown has impacted the fashion marketing by three steps based on its “less-is-more� concept: launch it, promote it and reinforce it. The power of visual can be felt strongly through the whole process from online to offline part such as the campaign which faced to all the bridals as well as the using of digital screen in stores. During these session, it can be seen that Bobbi Brown is a brand that not only sells the products but also pays attention to stay in touch with their clients by getting their feedback from different platforms and launching the lifestyles product. These marketing strategy helps them gain a high degree of trust from customers, at the same time, people can understand the concept of Bobbi Brown intuitively during each steps. Bobbi has had been a pioneer of nature beauty in fashion world and has impacted many brands to follow it, but how to gain more market share and make breakthrough from the original point of nature makeup is their next mission to consider, because people can still be impacted by the changing fashion trend and follow them easily more than to be themselves.
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Illustration Fig.1: Bobbi Brown Official (2014) Be who you are, Available at: http://www.bobbibrown.co.uk/media/export/ cms/be_who_you_are/tile_color/BWYA_Social_Insta_Footer.jpg,( Accessed: 1 March 2017). Fig.2: A Karen (2012) 15 mins with Bobbi, Available at: http://www.makeupandbeautyblog.com/wp-content/ uploads/2012/03/bobbi-brown-makeupandbeautyblog.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017). Fig.3: Bobbi Brown Official (2016) Bobbi Brown Blusher, Available at: http://www.kalindakano.com.mx/wpcontent/uploads/2015/03/get-the-gloss-contouring-bobbi-brown-pot-rouge-in-coral-calypso-copy.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017). Fig4: Mychaskiw, m. (2014) Kate Upton for Bobbi Brown, Available at: https://www.stihi.ru/pics/2016/12/21/8400. jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017). Fig.5: Mychaskiw, m. (2014) Kate Upton for Bobbi Brown, Available at: https://gl-images.condecdn.net/image/ ODKPwPYDVPA/crop/1620 (Accessed: 1 March 2017). Fig.6: Advertisement: Bobbi Brown Cosmetics. (2003). Vogue, 193(10), pp. 239. (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.7: Reem Kanj (2015), Bobbi Brown product expierence Available at: http://i0.wp.com/fivefivefabulous.com/ wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Bobbi-Brown-Luxe-Lipsticks-3.jpg?resize=1080%2C1620 (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.8: Steve (2988), Dior advertising Available at: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Uaxrp_-Co5k/THU9Vk8TSfI/ AAAAAAAAB1c/zHXNDj3UVwM/s400/Sara+Kapp+2.bmp (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.9: Harper’s Bazaar (1988) Dior advertising, Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/79/ cb/64/79cb646dbdab4748d72fbd80027caf1e.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.10: Bobbi Brown Official, (2014) lipsticks Available at: https://i.embed.ly/1/display/ resize?key=1e6a1a1efdb011df84894040444cdc60&url=http%3A%2F%2Feverythingbobbi.com%2Fwp-content%2 Fuploads%2F2012%2F06%2FFB_Milestone_19901.jpg&width=810 (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.11: Bobbi Brown Official, (2014) Foudations Available at: https://static1.squarespace. com/static/54a1e590e4b0663b5485a005/t/54a5e6a1e4b0114202651862/1420158633474/ Bobbi+Brown+Foundation+Sticks (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.12: Dior’s official, (2012) Dior New Nude Available at: http://www.celebitchy.com/wp-content/ uploads/2012/08/portman1.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.13: Dior official website, (2012) Dior New Nude Available at: http://www.celebitchy.com/wp-content/ uploads/2012/08/portman2.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.14: Natalie Lukaitis, (2016) 17 of our favourite Bobbi Brown quotes, Available at: http://www.blogssom. com/17-of-our-favourite-bobbi-brown-quotes/ (Accessed: 2 March 2017) Fig.15: Screenshot from Bobbi Brown’s website, (2016) Be Who You Are Campaign, Available at: Bobbi Brown’s website (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.16: Dave Benett, (2016) Bobbi Brown’s 25th anniversary Available at: https://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/ styles/story_medium/public/thumbnails/image/2016/11/02/21/bobbibrown-0.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017)
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Fig.17: Kitija Reitere, (2014), Bobbi Brown Workshop, Available at: https://1.bp.blogspot.com/1WOEUNoT5vA/V3wofZKGKmI/AAAAAAAAOJE/KiZChU_EiC0gxSZyOgzICIF1PdW6_wzrwCKgB/ s1600/IMG_7995.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.18: Screenshot of Bobbi’s Smoky Eye campaign video, (2016) Available at: Youtube (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.19: Alena,m (2011) Bobbi Brown Store Available at: http://pics.livejournal.com/alena_master/ pic/00021t20/s640x480 (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.20: Screenshot of Bobbi’s Smoky Eye campaign video Available at: Youtube (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.21: Jessica Haleny (2016) The Best Bridal Beauty Moves, Available at: http://everythingbobbi.com/wpcontent/uploads/2016/04/The-Best-Bridal-Beauty-Moves.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.22: Everything Bobbi (2016) Bobbi Around the World Available at: http://everythingbobbi.com/wpcontent/uploads/2016/10/BB-HK_TST-harbourside-72dpi.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.23: Villalobos (2016) Bobbi’s Guide to New Jersy Available at: http://everythingbobbi.com/wp-content/ uploads/2016/08/Screen-Shot-2016-08-10-at-11.35.29-AM-e1470926411268-710x647.png (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.24: Everything Bobbi, (2016) My Spring Break Essentials Available at: http://everythingbobbi.com/wpcontent/uploads/2016/03/Screen-Shot-2016-03-21-at-10.00.03-AM.png (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.25: Helen, (2015) Bobbi Brown Make Up Favorite, Available at: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/XX3QU4BuLXk/Vb_CZH-16PI/AAAAAAAAHqQ/h1kQINyMarE/s1600/bobbi-brown-makeup-favouritesart-stick-pot-rouge-blush-eye-sticks-1.png (Accessed: 2 March 2017) Fig.26: Bobbi Brown Online shop (2017) Nourishing lip color, Available at: http://www.bobbibrowncosmetics. com/product/2342/40428/makeup/lips/lip-color/nourishing-lip-color/ss16 (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.26: Sassi Sam (2012) Bobbi Brown Long Wear Finish Foundation, Available at:http://sassisamblog.com/ wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Bobbi_Brown_Long_Wear_Foundation.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.27: Sassi Sam (2012) Bobbi Brown Long Wear Finish Foundation, Available at:http://sassisamblog.com/ wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Bobbi_Brown_Long_Wear_Foundation.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.28: Bobbi Brown Official (2016) Be Who You Are, Available at: http://everythingbobbi.com/wp-content/ uploads/2016/07/FH16_BWYA_Grid_Static-710x710.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.29: Bobbi Brown Official (2016) Be Who You Are, Available at: https://www.bellanaija.com/wp-content/ uploads/2016/07/bobbi-brown-be-who-you-are-bellanaija-july-2016.png (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.30: Bobbi Brown Official (2016) Be Who You Are, Available at: https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/image s?q=tbn:ANd9GcQXF00ywsKYlL7J4JPvqYWY1z-WipKAmrzHTn3myF_JuQz-XK15Pg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.31: Flassy (2014) Beach with bobbi brown, Available at: http://www.befrassy.net/wp-content/ uploads/2014/06/IMG_66171.jpg_effected1-1000x1500.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017)
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Fig.32: Bobbi Brow Official (2010) Bobbi Brown Summer, Available at: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_H_IEA-URpJw/ S_816lzvCzI/AAAAAAAAP3Y/cpzSKim_E3I/s400/bbbeach_Bobbi-Brown-Cosmetics-Hong-Kong%27s-Photos-PinkOyster-Collection-Bobbi-Brown-Bobbi%27s-Beach-Club-Collection-June-2010-Preview-+(1).JPG (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.33: Flassy (2014) Beach with bobbi brown, Available at: http://www.befrassy.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/ edited3-1000x750.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.34: Flassy (2014) Beach with bobbi brown, Available at: http://www.befrassy.net/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/ IMG_6617-1000x666.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.35: Getty (2015) Royal Wedding, Available at: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_H_IEA-URpJw/S_816lzvCzI/ AAAAAAAAP3Y/cpzSKim_E3I/s400/bbbeach_Bobbi-Brown-Cosmetics-Hong-Kong%27s-Photos-Pink-OysterCollection-Bobbi-Brown-Bobbi%27s-Beach-Club-Collection-June-2010-Preview-+(1).JPG (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.36: Getty (2015) Royal Wedding, Available at: https://media.novinky.cz/444/554445-original1-wf1bq.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.37: Getty (2015) Courtesy of bobbi brown, Available at: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1ue-Sd216zM/TcPk4ZfaOYI/ AAAAAAAABxk/PyPk3M_HB2Q/s1600/Kate%2BMiddleton%2BMakeup%2BBobbi%2BBrown.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.38: Lily pebbles (2016) Bobbi Brown Bridal Available at: http://www.lilypebbles.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/ boat-44-of-58.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.39: Lily pebbles (2016) Bobbi Brown Bridal, Available at: http://www.lilypebbles.co.uk/wp-content/ uploads/2016/04/boat-53-of-58.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.40: Lily pebbles (2016) Bobbi Brown Bridal, Available at: http://www.lilypebbles.co.uk/wp-content/ uploads/2016/04/boat-51-of-58.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.41: Lily pebbles (2016) Bobbi Brown Bridal, Available at: http://www.lilypebbles.co.uk/wp-content/ uploads/2016/04/boat-57-of-58.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.42: Bobbi Brown Official (2016) Katie Holmes Advertising Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/ originals/c6/d7/cf/c6d7cf5361f0e4a51d20f62a230baaf4.jpg (Accessed: 1 March 2017) Fig.43:Lipstiq (2015) Bobbi Brown’s Luxe Lip Range Available at: https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/ images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS1TgAwFp-vfI3pAdL68eD1ejqQVO7EE45j4gzzjyMCguu1tK2d13ZihdM (Accessed: 1 March 2017)
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