Traverse Northern Michigan's Magazine, October 2021 by MyNorth

Traverse SPECIAL INSERT

10.21

EN TE R TO W IN

Northern Home & Cottage

VIRTUAL HOME TOUR

3 -N IG H T Y A U.P. GETAW ’S

IN LIVING NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

AN FR OM MI CH IG UL A! NS NI PE R PE UP LIN K.M YN OR TH.

COM /UP 21

COLOR! TOUR WILD PLACES, LIGHTHOUSES & MORE

p.40

What Happens at Bird Camp... p.26

Jacob’s Farm, an Autumn Must p.34

The U.P.’s Prehistoric Masterpiece p.48

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Homegrown Cider

Top Fall Color Overlooks

OCTOBER 2O21

$4.5O

9/2/21 2:20 PM

bac-tc.com

bacdesigntc.com

LAKEMORE RESORT located on Arbutus Lake is a quintessential example of the spectacular, impressive results of the synergy and collaboration between Bay Area Contracting and BAC Design Group.

Parade of Homes SEPTEMBER 13-19, 2021 • Tickets Available Online at

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hbagta.com

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Autumn is exhilarating here. From mid-September to mid-October this magnificent peninsula is a feast for your eyes. USA Today Readers have repeatedly chosen the U.P. as a Top 10 Fall Foliage Destination. The breathtaking mountain and coastal vistas, thrilling adventures, comforting Old World foods and crisp craft beers will convince you why.

LAKE OF THE CLOUDS

THE UPPER PENINSULA MICHIGAN UPTRAVEL.COM

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Building and renovating Northern Michigan’s finest residences.

J. Peterson Realty is pleased to present a 5 bedroom classic new construction on the “Gold Coast” of Torch Lake. Situated on one of the last remaining high and dry vacant sites on the sunset side of the lake. Three floors of open finished space includes a walkout lower level. Amenity offers all the custom features that you have come to expect from J. Peterson Homes. $2,595,000. MLS #1885643. Lot offered separately for your custom home. 10136 Larson Road. $695,000. MLS #1885644

NG PENDI

J. Peterson Realty offers an amazing opportunity to build on Peninsula Drive, one of the most desirable locations in Traverse City. Located just 10 minutes from Traverse City, the large parcel features over 200’ of West Bay frontage and a large rear parcel for your guest house or sports pavilion. Home includes an open floorplan, 4 bedrooms, 3 1/2 baths and potential future finish space in the daylight lower level. 9006 Peninsula Drive. $1,950,000. MLS # 1883141

joel@joelpetersonhomes.com • 516 E. Front St., Traverse City • 231.994.2168

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Traverse 10.21 INSIDE

F E AT U R E S

MyNorth .com DISCOVER MORE ABOUT UP NORTH, PEOPLE, PLACES, FOOD AND EVENTS.

26 BIRD CAMP

A family’s annual bird hunting trip to a remote log cabin near Marquette is a joyful celebration of place and tradition. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY ANDREW VANDRIE

34 JACOB’S FARM 3.0

Generations have farmed this land, but reinvention has farming sitting alongside fun for people of all ages. TEXT BY KIM SCHNEIDER / PHOTOS BY DAN STEWART

48 THE MYSTERY AND THE TRAGEDY OF BURNT BLUFF

The U.P.’s Garden Peninsula is home to the only prehistoric rock drawings in the state, but these invaluable relics are fading into oblivion. Can they be saved? TEXT BY DOUG HAGLEY

photo by Taylor Brown

IN LIVING COLOR

Looking to get engulfed in pristine fall color? We’ve got you covered. Pack a picnic and go off the grid to explore this region where autumn reigns. T E X T B Y L A U R E L M A N K E / P H O T O S B Y TAY L O R B R O W N

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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D OW N TOW N S U T TO N S B AY

(231) 271-3841 | bahles.net

now available

DE PART M E N T S 7 | EDITOR'S NOTE 9 | UP NORTH est · 1876

A husband-and-wife team is breathing new life into downtown Cheboygan with their five businesses, including Stormy Kromer Cap & Ale House, a 2021 Best Small Business award winner.

15 | OCTOBER EVENTS

The Northern Home & Cottage Virtual Home Tour returns! Plus, plenty of fall festivals and outdoor activities. HORSE LOVER’S PARADISE Situated on 20 Private Acres 4 Bedrooms, 2.5 Bathrooms Main Floor Primary Suite Lower Level Walk-out w/ Full Bath 36’x 48’ Barn with Arena Featuring a Tack & Grain Room, Stalls, Hayloft & Storage

4550 Cedar Lake Road, Traverse City MLS #1891881 | $789,900

402 E Front Street, Traverse City, MI 49686

19 | TRAVEL

Access four of the most photographed Upper Peninsula overlooks by chairlift, ski jump elevator, foot or car, and you’ll discover sensational fall color displays.

21 | UP IN MICHIGAN

Clouds of dust, sweltering heat and backbreaking work define a young college student’s summer at Petoskey’s Penn-Dixie cement plant before its closure in 1981.

photo by Dave Weidner

are you ready for fall? we are.

25 | OUTDOORS

Head to Lake Dubonnet, a.k.a. Mud Lake, near Interlochen for hiking, biking and wildlife sightings galore.

53 | THE CULINARY NORTH

Two K Farms in Suttons Bay is doing cider differently, growing unique heritage apple varieties and using winemaking techniques to craft their delicious singlevarietal ciders.

57 | ON THE TABLE

An indigenous-inspired one pot supper of bison, wild rice and squash will warm your soul this season.

59 | LAST CALL

This mezcal-pear cocktail is a bridge between NoMi’s growing season and the region’s fireside months.

60 | LOVE OF THE LAND

Nestled between Lake Michigan and Glen Lake, Alligator Hill Trail offers vibrant fall color views worth hiking for.

Ann Porter

facebook.com/mynorthmedia

231.944.4959

instagram.com/mynorthmedia

Visit AnnPorterTC.com for more information.

pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

ASSOCIATE BROKER

Ann@AnnPorterTC.com

ON THE COVER A fall color tour along the scenic back roads from Petoskey to Gaylord. PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN

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Traverse NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER

Deborah Wyatt Fellows Michael Wnek

SENIOR EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL CONTENT WRITER & SOCIAL MEDIA PROJECT MANAGER CULINARY COLUMNIST

Vol. 41 | No. 5

Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Allison Jarrell

Elizabeth Aseritis Caroline Dahlquist

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

Andrew VanDrie Kandace Chapple Kim Schneider Heather Durocher

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Tim Hussey Theresa Burau-Baehr

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

Rachel Watson Claire Houser Jen Berigan

GRAPHIC DESIGNER WEB DIRECTOR

Julie Parker Mike Alfaro Ann Gatrell Meg Lau Pat Roth

DIRECTOR OF SALES ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

MARKETING DIRECTOR MARKETING COORDINATOR

2021 Small Farm Reserve Breeder of the Year Home of our ‘Elk Jacob’, the 2021 Small Farm Herdsire of the Year

Rachel Soulliere Stacey Brugeman

PROOFREADERS

ART DIRECTOR

Recipe of the Month from

Erin Lutke Ashlyn Korienek Libby Stallman

OFFICE MANAGER

Kim Stewart

BOOKKEEPER

foodforthought.net SHOP ONLINE

for 25% off ALL SALSAS with promo code OCT25Tmag.

Meaty Bean & Corn Taco Bake

May 21st - Dec. 23rd 10 am - 5 pm Closed Holidays & Sundays 4907 River Road, Frankfort 231-920-7085 CrystalLakeAlpacas.com 2nd boutique location in the Mercato in The Village at Grand Traverse Commons

Classic taco meets hearty casserole! Perfect for a fall weeknight meal or weekend tailgate/bonfire party. Truly Natural Food For Thought Bean and Corn Salsa makes it easy and special.

INGREDIENTS: • 2 Tbsp olive oil, divided • 1 lb ground beef or ground turkey • 1 medium onion, diced • 1 medium bell pepper, diced • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 2 Tbsp tomato paste • 1 15 oz can diced tomatoes • 1 Tbsp chili powder • 2 tsp ground cumin • 1 tsp dried oregano • 1/2 tsp salt • 1/4 tsp black pepper • 1 jar Food for Thought Bean and Corn Salsa (Medium or Very Hot) • 1 1/2 cups shredded cheddar cheese, divided • 1 cup chopped romaine lettuce • Cherry tomatoes, quartered • Sour cream (for serving)

PREPARATION:

EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICES

125 S Park Street, Suite 155 Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 SUBSCRIBER SERVICES

Visit MyNorth.com/Account to renew your subscription, change your address, or review your account. Please email other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800-678-3416 between 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. EST.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Prism Publications Inc., 125 S Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $24.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2021, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

Preheat oven to 350. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add the beef (or turkey) and cook until browned. Transfer the meat to a plate, discarding any remaining fat. Reduce heat to medium and add remaining oil. Add onion, pepper, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Return the beef to the pan and stir in the diced tomatoes, tomato paste and spices. Cook for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the Food For Thought salsa and half the cheese. Transfer to 9x13-ich greased baking dish and sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Bake until the cheese is melted and casserole is bubbling, about 20 minutes. Top with lettuce, tomato, sour cream – serve with flour tortillas or tortilla chips and your favorite Food For Thought Hot Sauce.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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GIFT GIVING MADE EASY

Northern Home & Cottage 20

VIRTUAL HOME TOURS

TICKETS CHEF’S STARTER PACK GIFT SET

for the foodies on your list!

Choose from our three pantry pairing gift sets and we’ll include a Fustini’s apron, two gravity closure pour spouts and a copy of Entertaining with Fustini’s cookbook. Stop by one of our locations or visit us online to order and ship with a gift message!

ON SALE NOW

ALL PROCEEDS GO TO CHILD AND FAMILY SERVICES OF NW MI

LAUNCHES OCTOBER 29TH

OFFICIAL SPONSOR:

FEATURED SPONSORS: HONOR ONEKEMA BUILDING SUPPLY MCLAIN DESIGNS

Let’s Get Together and Cook! TRAVERSE CITY

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Editor's Note

AUTUMN’S MAGIC LIGHT by DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS

photo by Deborah Fellows

ur youngest, olivia, has just gotten her first job. A journalist. Imagine that. My husband, Neal, and I sit among changing autumn colors, contemplating that milestone while finally acknowledging that we have to take the boat out for the season. The air, the lake, the leaves, the boat and Liv—so many autumn moments tied into memory in that visceral way place provides. It’s October 1999 and the leaves are just before peak. We haven’t taken the boat out of the water yet, and on a Saturday, we bundle the kids into it for a ride around the lake. Ben is 8. Peter is 5 ½. Austin is 3. And Liv, home with us for just two weeks, is about to turn 1. We’ve piled blankets, books and snacks into our old Rinker for this, possibly our last trip of the year, and Liv’s first ever. The water is a deep blue, still dancing in sunlight’s diamonds, and the shoreline is ablaze. Ben is hanging near Neal, hoping to take the wheel at some point, and I am up in the front with the other three who scramble to the bow to sit on their knees like figureheads on an ancient ship. Liv has sandwiched herself between her two brothers; Austin gently placing her hands on the silver railing, Peter exclaiming with his pure joy just what she is about to experience. I hold on to the back of life jackets as gently as possible so they don’t know I’ve got them and try to imprint the moment, and Liv’s face, into my memory. In just a few weeks, our brave little girl has been plucked out of St. Petersburg, Russia, and dropped into life in Northern Michigan. We already know she embraces life with sheer gusto, and on this day, I watch as she tilts her face to the wind and the October light. She is too young yet for language and would have no English yet if she could speak. So, her language on this glorious day is her little fingers clutching the rail, her tiny, tiny body braced against the rush of the wind, her gleeful laughter that comes from the belly, her beautiful china-blue eyes closing just briefly. And I know then that

we are complete. We are the family we were meant to be, gliding together through October’s magic light and whatever comes beyond. It is October, 10 years later, and Ben, tall and fair-haired, has come home for the first time from college. He arrives in the late afternoon and as the dropping sun turns the world a rich, deep gold, he changes into his suit, grabs a towel and heads to the lake. It is not a warm day. The lake has gone cold. But in he goes, and then he sits for a while down on the dock until he becomes just a silhouette against the darkening waters. Eventually, he walks slowly up to the house and as he passes through the kitchen, he looks at me and says, “You just forget.” But we don’t really forget, do we? It’s like muscle memory, coming back to us again and again when the light slants just so, or the water shimmers a certain blue or the sun filters through a canopy of trees turned brilliant green or shades of red and gold. All the memories of any given season in Northern Michigan live just one moment away. We can almost turn a corner and come upon them; time spent with the landscape we love, the people we love. If these pages inspire you to head out into the landscape of this region and create memories, then the promise made over 40 years ago when we launched Traverse is fulfilled. And if you are somewhere else, far away from Northern Michigan’s magic autumn light, and something in these pages pulls you back into memory, then we have done what we set out to do. We are so honored and grateful that we still get to do it, because we never forget.

Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth.com. debwf@traversemagazine.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Established 1985

g Award-Winnin Celebrating 36 Year s of Baking & Sellin g Cookies!

t tomsmomscookie We ship ever yw s.com here! Order online a

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We are looking forward to welcoming you back this summer season. Our walk-up window has been such a hit with customers that it’s become a permanent fixture! Visit us and sample some of our 21 different varieties, or order online. You’ll be glad you did!

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Always the unique and unexpected since 1986

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“the women” By terracotta sculptor Roberto Tirado Many NEW designs in stock 112 North Main Street Leland, MI 49654 (231) 256-7747 info@TampicoLelandMi.com FOLLOW US! www.facebook.com/Tampicolelandmi

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THE COSTIN EFFECT by CARLY SIMPSON

A husband-and-wife team is breathing new life into downtown Cheboygan.

photos by Dave Weidner

hen i called marcella Costin to set up an interview, I was planning for it to be over the phone. I thought it’d be pretty straightforward—Marcella and her husband, John, own five businesses in Cheboygan, including Stormy Kromer Cap & Ale House, one of the Michigan Small Business Development Center’s 2021 Best Small Business award winners. I wanted to know more about them and their vision. So, when Marcella said I really had to come see the businesses in person because they're difficult to describe, I thought she must be exaggerating. I was wrong.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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up north

There’s an undeniable cool factor, a certain je ne sais quoi. For starters, all five businesses connect. You can walk through each one without ever going outside. Customers regularly ask for a tour and the team is happy to oblige (keep an eye out for a secret door). There are glam chandeliers, cozy fireplaces, one-of-a-kind décor—it’s a treat just to visit. Below is a small peek at what the Costins have created. I hope you’ll view the bonus photos and extended story online at link.mynorth.com/ CostinEffect, which shares more about John and Marcella’s creative vision. And, of course, I recommend you experience these places for yourself. SIMPLY MARCELLA 223 N. MAIN ST.

The business that started it all. Shop Marcella’s line of pearl jewelry (She designs it!), along with apparel, accessories and gifts. THE PIG ‘N’ WHISTLE 219 N. MAIN ST.

The newest on the block, this cocktails and confectionary gift shop has retro candies and a bar that only serves rum runners. Plus, plenty of pig-themed treasures, too. STORMY KROMER CAP & ALE HOUSE 221 N. MAIN ST.

Michigan’s favorite Stormy Kromer gear and craft beer; obviously a winning combo. THE QUEENS HEAD WINE PUB 250 N. HURON ST.

Leather chairs, wood tables, a large fireplace—it’s an inviting and relaxed spot for elevated pub fare and beverages. THE LARK THEATER & LOUNGE 252 N. HURON ST.

An intimate live music venue with church pew seating. The swanky lounge area has specialty bourbons, martinis and bubbly. 10

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^ NEW UP NORTH A monthly column highlighting new businesses and community updates. ZEST PLANT-BASED KITCHEN 439 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY

This café’s menu features 100 percent vegan breakfast and lunch items, including acai and wholegrain bowls, gourmet toasts, breakfast burritos, salads, curries and more. zesttc.com

The neighborhood tavern Little Bohemian reopened in late July under new ownership. Much of the nostalgic interior was saved, but look for some modern updates. lilbotc.com YARD & LAKE 215 MILL ST., NORTHPORT

The retail shop has beach and nautical-inspired goods, including apparel, jewelry, beach reads and more. An on-site restaurant and bar are in the works. Follow on Instagram @yard_and_lake LEELANAU COFFEE ROASTING BREAKFAST BISTRO 101 S. MAIN ST., LELAND

Glen Arbor’s Leelanau Coffee Roasting Co. recently expanded into Leland. In addition to an extensive coffee selection, the bistro serves breakfast sandwiches, sourdough pancakes, cinnamon rolls, huevos rancheros and more. leelanaucoffee.com VUE 101 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX

The wine bar offers domestic and global wine selections, plus select beers and spirits. The location on the Pine River Channel, south of the bridge, offers nightly sunset views over Lake Michigan. facebook.com/ VUECharlevoix Know of a business that just opened or have a fun community update? Let us know at editorial@traversemagazine.com.

photo by Dave Weidner

LIL BO 540 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY

CHECK THE FALL COLOR MAP This fall, we’re once again partnering with Tom O’Hare, chief meteorologist at 9&10 News, to bring you the latest Northern Michigan fall color map every week throughout September and October. You’ll know exactly where to find the best fall foliage and when to take your leaf-peeping drive. You can also view color maps from 2018, 2019 and 2020 to get a general idea of when peak colors arrive (though it does vary a bit each year). For current conditions, visit link.mynorth.com/FallColorMap -C.S.

ASSESS & REDUCE YOUR LAKE POLLUTION There are many factors that contribute to lake health, and the Michigan Shoreland Stewards are encouraging waterfront homeowners to use their simple online survey, “Rate Your Shoreland,” to sort through possible environmental threats and gain personalized management recommendations in about 10 minutes. Without deep-rooted plants and natural shore formations as buffers, excess nutrients like sewage, animal waste and fertilizers run into the lake and cause the shoreline to erode over time. These changes will also contribute to the degradation of your lake’s water quality. The interactive tool separates property owners’ focus into three categories for clarity: the upland zone, the buffer zone and the lake. Upland Zone: 35’ and beyond from the water’s edge. Minimize hard surfaces to maximize rainwater absorption in this zone. Buffer Zone: The critical area between the water’s edge and your yard if you have one. Increase your greenbelt buffer by landscaping with native, deeprooted plants to create a runoff barrier between your home and the lake. Lake Zone: This zone consists of your shoreline/beach. Prevent erosion on your shoreline by refraining from planting grass up to the water and prioritizing the natural growth of trees and other deep-rooted plants. mishorelandstewards.org –C.S. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Lake Michigan Waterfront

MLS 188 8140

Suzy Voltz

(231) 651-9711 suzy.voltz@gmail.com

ach Crystal Downs Be

RealEstateOne.com

57 N. Michigan Ave • Beulah • 231-882-4449

UPCOMING EVENTS 10/1-10/2

YOU’RE INVITED

TC GERMAN FEST TRINIT Y LUTHERAN CHURCH & SCHOOL

10/2 & 10/16

ANNUAL FALL COLOR TOUR OTSEGO RESORT

10/23

FULL CORD BLUEGRA SS GOPHERWOOD CONCERT S

10/29

NORTHERN HOME & COTTA GE VIRTUAL HOME TOUR ONLINE

10/30

ARCTUROS DINING SERIES: FULL MOON DINNER BLACK STAR FARMS

The viewers of Good Morning America chose it as “The Most Beautiful Place in America”. It features sandy beaches, sparkling waters, and towering dunes, preserved and protected by the National Park Service. Others claim to be close to it. We don’t. It surrounds us. So, save the driving…vacation here and stay here.

RSVP

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up north

^ Upcoming Events at Legacy Plaza

A LUDINGTON LEGACY by CARLY SIMPSON

The recent renovation of a downtown plaza has created a four-season community and recreational space.

photo courtesy of Ludington Downtown Development Authority

udington's legacy plaza, formerly called the James Street Plaza, debuted in June, and the list of amenities is long: permanent pavilion, new bathroom structure, communal and private seating, fireplace, urban green space and more still to come. The plaza will also be the new home of the Ludington Farmers Market. Fundraisers are still underway for several Phase 2 additions including an entry arch, public kiosk and self-guided story walk. The kiosk will feature an interactive downtown map and directory, plus lists of upcoming events, and the story walk will give a nod to the town’s past. “It’s been 35 years in the making, so the completion of this grand idea is super exciting to not only the current board but also past (and even original!) board members as well,” says Jen Tooman, the downtown communications and marketing manager. “The space has evolved over the last couple of decades from a closed one-way street to a popular park. This re-imagining has polished up the plan,” Jen adds. “The addition of a stage with ample power supply will draw a crowd for our weekly ‘Live in The Plaza’ events in the summer. The revamp has also provided more seating, updated restrooms and of course, the fireplace.” The plaza will also be used for several annual downtown events, including Octoberfest and the New Year’s Eve Ball Drop. Check out upcoming events in the sidebar, and visit downtownludington.org/legacyplaza.

OCTOBERFEST September 24–25 Friday: From 3–9 p.m. enjoy live music, family-friendly activities and the farmers market at the plaza. Also, find activities throughout the social district downtown, including pub crawl games, a cornhole tournament, kids pony rides and more. Saturday: Live music from 12–6 p.m. with craft beer (along with wine and cider), yard games, vendors and family-friendly activities. The annual Chili Walk will also take place that day, which usually features 24–30 merchants offering chili samples. HALLOWEEN October 30 Saturday: Run for Your Lives 5K & 10K at 9 a.m., Costume Party at 12:30 p.m., Downtown Trick-or-Treating from 2–4 p.m. DEER WIDOWS WEEKEND November 13–14 Merchants will have sales, refreshments and other activities. AGLOW ON THE AVENUE & SMALL BUSINESS SATURDAY November 27 Sales, specials and giveaways downtown. Aglow on the Avenue Holiday Parade on Ludington Avenue & Tree Lighting at Legacy Plaza at 6 p.m.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Robert Scudder “CP Rail #199” Oil 36x36

Fine art awaits your next visit to Twisted Fish.

Come explore our galleries & sculpture gardens, or find us online ... www.twistedfishgallery.com 10443 S Bayshore Dr., Elk Rapids, MI 231-264-0123 contact@twistedfishgallery.com

Celebrating 44 years

COLD FEET?

Warm these cozy slippers in the microwave and snuggle up! GRAY – PINK – TAUPE / WE SHIP EVERYWHERE!

Red, Yellow, Orange, Brilliant Blue. COMING SOON Crisp air, brilliantly colored leaves, comfort foods, new wines and the still brilliant blue of Lake Michigan.

RESERVE NOW To make your reservations, visit thehomesteadresort.com or call 231.334.5100.

G l e n A r b o r, M I 4 9 6 3 6

231.271.6895 • FrontPorchSuttonsBay.com Downtown Suttons Bay • Open Daily 14

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TIX Watch for the MyNorthTix symbol and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

photo by Dave Weidner

October edited b y LIBBY STALLMAN

FRI

SAT

SUN

FRI

Hunt for the Reds of October along the Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail and discover what is often overlooked—the region’s unique ability to grow and create some of the world’s finest red wine varietals, such as cabernet franc, blaufränkisch and pinot noir. Weekdays through Oct. 31. MyNorthTickets.com

SAT

The Acme Fall Festival includes a classic car show, kids events, bake sale, farmers market, craft show, silent auction and more. Proceeds will be donated to TART Trails to support the Acme Connector and maintenance of the trail on the east side of Traverse City and through Acme. traversetrails.org The Mackinac Island Wedding Show, hosted by Mission Point Resort, is the perfect event to find everything you need to plan your special day. You’ll meet face to face with industry experts who will guide you through the details of a Mackinac wedding. MyNorthTickets.com

SAT

The Vineyard at Sunrise Fun Run and 5k will take place at the beautiful French Valley Vineyard in Cedar. All funds raised benefit Leelanau Montessori Public School Academy. MyNorthTickets.com

SAT

Catch a performance by the Vienna Boys Choir, the world’s foremost children’s choral group and among the oldest musical organizations, having been founded in 1498, at the Great Lakes Center for the Arts in Bay Harbor. greatlakescfa.org

16 23

FRI

Check out Skeletons Arise on display in Harbor Springs all month long. Skeletons can be found in many different businesses wearing stylish costumes to celebrate Halloween. harborspringschamber.com

SAT

The Northern Home & Cottage Virtual Home Tour is back again this year! View some of the North's most stunning residences from the comfort of your own home through video documentaries. This donation-only event benefits Child & Family Services of Northwestern Michigan. MyNorthTickets.com The Arcturos Dining Series Full Moon Dinner is an evening you’ll remember forever. This wine-paired, culinary experience at the Inn at Black Star Farms in Suttons Bay is inspired by seasonal ingredients sourced from Northern Michigan’s finest farms. MyNorthTickets.com

Please note, as these dates approach, some events may be modified, postponed or canceled to protect the safety of both event organizers and attendees. Check online or call ahead to confirm details. Throughout the year, visit MyNorth.com/ Northern-Michigan-Events for current community happenings.

Grab your most righteous ’80s concert gear and rock out in style while you solve a crime at the Totally ’80s Murder Mystery Dinner at Otsego Resort in Gaylord. MyNorthTickets.com

FIND MORE AT MYNORTH.COM > EVENTS

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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ROCK COLLECTORS Fossils Scoops Books Minerals Sieves Posters Gemstones Totes T-Shirts

HEAVEN

Est. 1980

Our needlepoint bipolar ionization equipment helps protect customers and staff from viruses, bacteria, & allergens 223 St. Joseph (M-22) Suttons Bay, MI - (231) 271-6033 | Enerdynet.com

Stephen Duren, oil on canvas.

-CLOSED-

Reopening Spring 2022 watch for

“LOCAL TICKETS ONE PLACE”

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9/3/21 3:00 PM

events

OCTOBER OUTDOORS by LIBBY STALLMAN

Six ways to make the most of the fall color season. SAT 10/2 & SAT 10/16

Enjoy a fall color drive via golf cart, stopping at four tasting stations with food and wine pairings along the way, during the Wine & Cheese Color Tour at Otsego Resort’s Tribute Course in Gaylord. MyNorthTickets.com SAT 10/2

photo by Dave Weidner

The scenic Sleeping Bear marathon, half marathon and 5K run/walk takes place in the heart of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore with a start and finish in Empire. sleepingbearmarathon.com SAT 10/23

The 15th annual Founders Peak2Peak Mountain Bike Classic is held on the beautiful, gently rolling terrain surrounding Crystal Mountain. crystalmountain.com

SAT 10/23

The Saturday Series with the Grand Traverse Conservation District offers free guided hikes throughout the year. This week’s hike at the Natural Education Reserve (1450 Cass Rd.) will be about native plants and wildlife in autumn, plus a seed saving demonstration in the Nature Center gardens. natureiscalling.org SAT 10/30

The Zombie Run has become a Traverse City Halloween tradition. And what’s not to like? Zombies and beer have always been a winning combination. tczombierun.com SAT 10/30

Located between Cass and Union streets, Traverse City’s outdoor Sara Hardy Downtown Farmers Market is winding down for the season. Pick up fresh, local fruits and veggies, plus baked goods, maple products, eggs and so much more. dda.downtowntc.com

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NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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9/2/21 2:48 PM

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9/9/21 11:15 AM

travel Brockway Mountain Drive

ENDLESS FALL VIEWS by KIM SCHNEIDER

Our quest here was simple: Find out if the state's most photographed Upper Peninsula overlooks live up to their iconic status. We climbed by chairlift, ski jump elevator, foot and car and found the obvious answer. Go!

PORCUPINE MOUNTAINS: LAKE OF THE CLOUDS (AND BEYOND)

TAHQUAMENON FALLS STATE PARK, PARADISE

COPPER PEAK, IRONWOOD

A pinnacle overlook and drive are waiting at what you might call the pinnacle of the state. Brockway Mountain Drive (the highest scenic drive between the Rockies and Alleghenies, located between US-26 and US-41) winds slowly up a treecovered mountain, past eagles riding on the thermals. Multiple pull-offs let you catch the ever-changing patterns of trees, Lake Superior and a multitude of streams until you reach the reward. From your perch at the peak, Superior stretches out 720 feet below, and while you won't be alone during color season, there's plenty of room to spread out and take in the 360-degree panorama. keweenaw.info

photo by Kim Schneider

Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, and the surrounding area, offer a perfect trifecta of overlooks you can drive to, reach by ski lift and hike along. Start at Lake of the Clouds, one of the most photographed spots in the Upper Peninsula—and no wonder. Dramatic rock outcroppings frame a deep blue, oval lake. The Lake of the Clouds Scenic Area has restrooms, picnic tables and an accessible viewing area just a few hundred feet from the parking lot. If you want to explore more, a variety of hiking trails through old-growth forest let you change up the view. Want a big lake in your landscape? Take the $10 (per person) chairlift ride to the top of the park's ski hill at Porcupine Mountains Ski Area. For a more intimate fall color experience, hike the trails at the nearby Presque Isle Campground to three gorgeous waterfalls. porkies.ski; michigan.gov/dnr They call it an adventure ride, going to the top of the world’s largest artificial ski jump tower (once used for ski flying)— and it certainly is. It starts with an 800-foot chairlift ride, then an elevator takes you 18 stories up from a mountain you're already on top of. The views from this overlook are incredible. But if you’re feeling gutsy, walk up another eight flights of stairs to the tippy top where you can see three states, Canada and a stunning forest panorama on a clear day (and you get bragging rights when back inside the elevator). You should know the chairlift sways with the wind, and you may (just saying) find yourself only able to scoot up the stairs (which also sway) on your hands and knees. Anyone can get a pretty safe view though, from where the elevator lets you out, or even by just staying at the bottom, where you can explore the hilltop and pose for photos. Watch a video of the adventure ride at copperpeak.net

You don't even have to climb to see memorable photo vantage points at the Upper Falls of Tahquamenon. There's a paved, flat trail that goes a quarter mile from the parking area to overlooks high above the falls; you only have to climb (93 steps) if you opt to go down to the brink viewing platform for a closer look or another 112 steps to the river’s edge. Do know that whoever mapped out the trails at this popular state park must have had your fall color framing in mind. Pick from multiple views along various wooden platforms. Several frame the root-beer-colored falls surrounded by autumn foliage that perfectly set them off. Bonus: After seeing the falls, enjoy another perfect pairing: a fruit-of-the-forest pie or a U.P. pasty and a microbrew at onsite Tahquamenon Falls Brewery and Pub. michigan.gov/dnr; tahquamenonfallsbrewery.com BROCKWAY MOUNTAIN DRIVE, COPPER HARBOR

Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she’s the author of “100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die.” NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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9/2/21 2:50 PM

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9/8/21 3:04 PM

up in michigan DUST & HEAT: A SUMMER AT PENN-DIXIE by JAMES MCCULLOUGH

Fine cement dust, sweltering heat from the kilns and backbreaking work define a young college student’s summer at a Petoskey cement plant before its closure in 1981.

photo courtesy of Little Traverse Historical Museum

wheeled off the petoskey-charlevoix road to the Penn-Dixie cement plant that sprawled along the shore of Little Traverse Bay. The road dropped into barren dust fields, over railroad tracks, between limestone quarries, then swung around a decrepit conveyor belt into the factory complex. I opened the car door to a cloud of fine cement dust and rhythmical, metallic racket. On the bay side, storage silos towered five stories high at the end of a broad pier where freighters from Chicago, Detroit and New York took on dry cement. On the other side, the production buildings angled against the sky. A foreman greeted me, appearing gaunt and exhausted, with thinning hair combed up and over. “I had you come out now so I can show you the ropes. If we hire you, you start at 6:30.” He walked me through several enclosures and curiously entangled machinery, rusted metal beams and gears, all bent upward like a monstrous, fractured rib cage. “What is this?” “They don’t use it anymore,” he said. We stopped at a cylindrical storage bin, 25 feet tall and 16 feet in diameter, half full of clay that was thick enough to stand on but soft enough for the shovel he tossed to the bottom. “Climb on down. Shovel that clay out that doorway in the back.” I dropped down the ladder into the concrete bucket. “What is this place?” “Dirty,” he said, “but you shovel it out the back.” So, I shoveled, the air heavy and hot, stomping, leaning back, tossing into the bin, until my mind wandered through my spotty freshman year at University of Michigan, and my grandmother lying in bed with osteoporosis, her brittle frame collapsing within her. “I want to go,” she had said, and I shrunk inside at the cruelty life dispenses even to the saintly. Eight hours later, I saw the foreman’s shadow from above. “You’re done,” he called. “We start 6:30.” My job would not be with clay, but with cement dust, fine as chalk and part lime. It permeates, clings and stings, seeping into pores and up the nose. You move it and remove it, rake it and rest in it. It’s blown against doors like shifting dunes, shin deep. Clouds of it drift in the air when I’d scoop and toss. When making cement, limestone is mixed with silica and alumina and heated to 3,000 degrees, then poured into a rotary kiln—106 feet long, 16 feet in diameter—mixing the molten ingredients. The giant tube angles slightly, so the molten rock flows as it churns and makes its way down to the cooler—an enormous black, metal riveted box, 2,000 degrees inside, so hot it makes wind. Because of its age, the cooler had heat cracks where burning hot dust and tiny pellets could escape and build up into knee-high piles.

“You ever see the cooler before?” the foreman yelled above the roar. “No.” He handed me asbestos gloves and a metal-framed mask with heat-resistant glass, screwed onto a broom handle, and opened a metal window on the cooler door with his own asbestos gloves to a blast like a devil’s slap. He pushed me back from the heat. “Now take a look. Use the mask,” he said. I stepped forward to see molten rock flow into the cooler from the kiln. Then he pointed at the knee-high dust piles of hot pellets that had escaped the cooler. “That,” he said, “goes in there,” and pointed at the window. Just then, a coal the size of a pinhead hit my forearm and I jumped and swatted. “Better roll down your sleeves,” he said, and smiled. “Gotta clear all this out. You go in to the chains at the end of the week.” I did not know what that meant, but I’d find out, and tossed a shovel-load, feeding the fire that scorched me. At the other end—the “hot” end— chains with massive links hung from the curved wall, grinding the molten rock as it flowed to the cooler. Over time, limestone would crust up inside the chains, constricting flow. When this happened, they shut down the kiln with the door open to release heat until it was barely tolerable; the job was to walk across a plank over the cooler into the dark tube with lights, power cords and 15-pound handheld jackhammers. We pried apart the links, hoisted and hammered on the crusted walls, and ripped chunks into the hot, stagnant air. Inside the kiln, there was nowhere for sound and dust to go. The jackhammer NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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9/2/21 2:54 PM

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9/9/21 11:19 AM

up in michigan resounded like automatic gunfire, and dust hung too heavily in the air for flimsy paper masks workers wear that would saturate with sweat, collapsing on our faces. But I didn’t care—if they could take it, I’d take it more. I started working seven days a week, double shifts, collecting 16 hours of double time. As fall approached, I felt my brain shrinking, along with my language and spirit. I would take off nights to see my grandmother, who would cry with joy when I came in. One night she said, “Jimmy, care for something,” and I nodded. “What will you care for?” “I’m not sure, Grandma,” I said. “Try to be.” My days ran into nights, and I escaped into dreams of sailing, and of rivers I was not fishing, the narratives of time on the water. As fall approached I realized I could not continue working at the plant. I told the boss I was going back to university on Sunday. “Yeah, but if you work through Monday, you get double time on Sunday and triple time on Labor Day.” “I’ll be done though.” “Triple time?” “Can’t.” And that was that. Penn-Dixie fell into bankruptcy soon afterward, closing the doors on all those men, stunned and unemployed. A decade later, the plant was dynamited, dozed over and developed into Bay Harbor, as if it never existed. I suppose this is true for all of us— dust to dust. Meanwhile, I can hear Grandma Annie, and wish I could show her now how deeply I care. James McCullough is founder of the University of Michigan’s Bear River Writers Conference, now in its 20th year. He’s authored two books, “Voelker’s Pond” (2003), selected by the Library of Michigan as a notable book that year, and “Echoes” (2018), a series of outdoor essays published by Deep Wood Press. Presently, McCullough is developing Artium of Northern Michigan: Writing Guidance and Coaching, offering workshops in literature, creative writing, college preparedness and workforce readiness. artiumnm@gmail.com

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9/9/21 11:18 AM

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9/9/21 11:20 AM

outdoors HIKING, BIKING (AND BEARS) ON THE LOST LAKE PATHWAY by KANDACE CHAPPLE

Head to Lake Dubonnet, a.k.a. Mud Lake, for wildlife sightings galore.

ost locals call it “mud lake.” (It’s prettier than it sounds, but you would consider this more of a fishing lake than a swimming lake.) Its actual name is Lake Dubonnet. But the actual name of the trail is Lost Lake Pathway. It’s all very confusing. But beautiful, we promise. Even when you see a bear. This little-known trail is located near Interlochen (you’ll turn north down Gonder Road to get to the trailhead, the same road that borders Interlochen Golf Course). One mile down, you’ll see a huge dirt parking lot on your left. The 6.4 miles of trails includes three loops and can be hiked, biked or crosscountry skied. (Note: It is not groomed in the winter.) FRONT LOOP FAMILY FUN

The front loop of the trail goes by Lake Dubonnet (a.k.a. Mud Lake) and the Lake Dubonnet State Forest Campground. This tiny campground is rustic, with campfire rings, dirt roads and vault toilets. There’s also a boat launch for the lake and its 120 acres of fishing. Watch for bald eagles (There’s a nesting pair on the island directly out from the boat launch every year!), calling loons and the occasional coyote, as well as plentiful whitetail deer. The loop then takes you back to a view of the tiny dam that spills into the Platte River. Here, the Platte is the thinnest of creeks, unrecognizable from its tubing-fame many miles downstream. As you complete the loop and head back to the parking lot, look for my favorite-name-ever-for-a-lake: Christmas Tree Lake. It’s very tiny on the far west side. This loop is the most popular, offering an approximate one-hour, 2.4-mile hike through endless maples and pines (with no hills) perfect for families and all skill levels.

photo by Kandace Chapple

BIG LOOP BEAUTY

However, the back two loops (one tiny, one big) are less traveled, more remote and offer a better chance for wildlife encounters—whether you want them or not. If you decide to head out to the back loops, part of the trail goes along Camp Trail Road and you get to walk right by a little dam. You will likely see a few fishermen on it throwing out a line for smallmouth bass or perch. You’ll also see a road leading to the Lake Dubonnet Trail Camp—a horse camp filled with hooves, hide and horse trailers in the summer. On the left, the trail ducks back into the woods. Watch for the “tree with a face” near the start of the loop—you can only see it if you start your hike going to the right of the loop. Either way, you’ll be taken on a beautiful trek on a ridge above the Platte, home to many sparkling white birch trees meshed into a world of green maples and marshy red bog.

THE BACKSIDE BEAR

The “big” back loop is another three miles and takes you past Lost Lake, the trail’s namesake. The lake is a marshy bog area that seems perfect for seeing bears. After years and years of biking and hiking the trail and never seeing a bear, I broke that record this June. It was about 5 p.m., and I was on my bike. Cruising along the back loop, I came across a fallen tree. I didn’t dare bunny hop it; instead, I stopped to lift my bike over it. I took a break, pulling out my bike bottle for a long drink, head thrown back, happy to be outside and relaxed, enjoying the quiet of the approaching dusk. Suddenly, I heard a huge commotion breaking through the trees behind me, and I whipped around to see what it was. I saw a man in a black sweatshirt—on all fours—running away from me through the trees. I’m embarrassed to say that was my first thought. In the next millisecond, I realized it was actually a bear, one that had no clothes on at all. The bear must have been standing there, waiting me out, about 20 yards behind me, the whole time. I was in a standoff I knew nothing about. Well, off he went, disappearing into the darkening woods away from me in an instant. And off I went, back on my bike and sprinting back to the trailhead, giggling all the while at my initial manin-black-sweatshirt theory. Kandace Chapple is a freelance writer and owner of Michigan Girl, an event planning business. She can be reached at kandacechapple.com. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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9/2/21 3:34 PM

BIRD CAMP A MAN’S ANNUAL BIRD HUNTING TRIP TO A REMOTE LOG CABIN IN THE U.P. BRINGS GRATITUDE AND CONTENTMENT THAT LAST HIM THE WHOLE YEAR.

Text and Photos by

Andrew VanDrie

Left to right: A successful hunt. Eric, Dad, Chuck and I pose for a hero shot post-hunt with Daisy.

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9/2/21 3:36 PM

Our truck hurtles through the empty corridor of Highway 28, pointed north toward quaking aspen, American woodcock and the occasional ruffed grouse. We are maneuvering through the rocky crag interior of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula—a venture Dad, Chuck and I have pursued since I still had braces (middle school). We retrace these familiar routes in an annual migration, beckoned by the same irrefutable intuition that drives the anadromous steelhead upstream. We return because we always have. Distance is gauged in the fading of FM stations as the signal weakens and another is picked up on the scanner; the radio waves of Marquette reach us much

sooner than we reach it. We maneuver through slumbering outposts—Trout Lake, Christmas, Munising—until the dimmed lights of Marquette shimmer across Lake Superior. We are guided in by a corpuscle glow emitting from Huron Mountain Bakery, thankfully pulling night shift hours and open past 10 p.m. A few old-timer patrons round out the edges of this mimicry of Edward Hopper’s “Nighthawks.” We glean a few “gooey-gobs” (Dad’s blanket term for any bakery sweet) from the scant collection as the bakers prepare fresh dough for tomorrow’s batch in the back. I add a shot of midnight oil to my Yeti thermos for the final push and off we go into the ether. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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9/2/21 3:36 PM

Dad and Chuck peruse the map. An atlas will give you a starting point, but intuition and boot leather will fill your game bag. Opposite: TM, a lifelong friend of my dad’s, has generously shared his cabin and dogs with us for well over a decade.

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We slingshot around the roundabouts of Highway 41 and then slide into a BP station outside Ishpeming for one last fuel-up before slipping past the contours of established civilization. We turn onto logging roads, wide dirt tracts that meander through the endless brush country and boast such endearing names as County Road CCF, and skitter over the washboard grade, splashing mud on the running boards as we close in on the finish line. Rounding another S curve that would give a rally driver whiplash, the rusted gate materializes in the headlights. A quick jounce over a rutted two-track and we are here. Each year we return to TM’s log cabin, situated on a clearing cut into the wildest place of Michigan’s left palm. Hand-constructed from jack pine by TM himself, it’s an homage to a mid-20th-century deer camp. The embodiment of Yooper hospitality, TM preps the cabin for our arrival and will join us tomorrow morning with his bird dogs in tow. Inside, the woodstove hums with a pine fire and the flames cast orange hues across lacquered wood. There have been slight modifications over the years since I’ve been coming here. A new window was cut and fitted into the west wall. More antlers on plaques have marched farther around the circumference of the cabin. But the essence is unaltered—a time capsule of rustic simplicity, hallowed ground that only acquires deeper mysticism with each season that I return. We unload and crack PBRs that have been on ice since St. Ignace to commemorate enduring the voyage, to celebrate being here. Together. We talk in hushed tones in the low light before finally wriggling into sleeping bags, falling asleep as the gathering rain begins to drum on the roof.

We load up the percolator on the propane stovetop for a second round and sip coffee with donuts in the kitchen.

II.

How many mornings have I awoken at the cabin? Too many to count, and not nearly enough. This morning is gray and rises as slowly as we do. The rain has mounted a full assault and shows no sign of fatigue. We load up the percolator on the propane stovetop for a second round and sip coffee with donuts in the kitchen. Other years, other mornings have arrived with the whirling of bird dogs trooping inside at daybreak as TM’s towering frame fills the doorway. Sun streaming through the large eastern window as I’m shocked awake by one, or two or three NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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9/2/21 3:36 PM

Above: Pep talk at the pregame. Opposite: TM preps Bo with GPS, beeper collar and a few good luck pats; On point! Staunch from snout to tail, Bo locks up on a woodcock holding but a few feet from his nose.

hounds lapping at my face. In many ways, the passage of bird camps past is not marked in years but rather epochs of Brittany Spaniels—Jess, Britt, Scout, Bo, Daisy. A procession of pad-footed monarchs. Dogs and companions who, though they aren’t your own, you still love, praise and mourn when you return the next October and they do not. We peruse a dog-eared copy of the “Michigan Atlas & Gazetteer” and plot out some reconnaissance. Suffice to say that many a distinguished sporting journal mercifully glosses over the slog that is truck time when hunting birds. Innumerable hours have been whiled away as we’ve traced the spider web of two-tracks, logging roads and side trails chasing grainy satellite maps and wild hunches. This year, it is a little early as most poplars, beeches, birches and maples still clutch their foliage, which makes for hard shooting. Though the palette still skews toward the verdant, there is a tinge of autumnal gold blended in with a few shocks of crimson maple and a swath of poplars 30

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alight in wind-rustled yellow flame. Today we do not have dogs with us (TM arrives tomorrow) so we will be “busting brush” unassisted. The rain has abated for a brief window and we have happened upon a promising, albeit small, stand of whip-thin poplar. Dad opts to nap in the front seat, so Chuck and I trudge along without him. Not more than a few footfalls from the gravel, Chuck flushes and fells a woodcock with a single shot, and we troop back to the car to fetch dad. We cover the stand, a mix of aspen and undergrowth, and I shoot my limit of woodcock (three) and Dad connects with one. In thematic conclusion, the front is upon us and rain begins to spatter on the windshield.

III.

Bunching rainclouds yield an early dusk as we arrive back at the cabin. Damp canvas shirts and brush pants are hung by the woodstove to dry. Shotguns are broken down, oiled and returned to their cases. The fire is stoked and a lantern lit in the kitchen as we prepare for dinner. The meal is preceded by venison summer sausage, dill cheese spread and grapes—a rudimentary charcuterie board laid out on paper plates. On the propane stove, a pot of homemade chili thaws and begins to burble. I tinker with the FM radio to pick up some Bob Seger before the signal is lost and I have to settle for country-western. Headlights sweep the inside of the cabin as my brother arrives,

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having hightailed it from Wisconsin. He nudges the door open—the latch regularly sticks—and shakes the rain off his Carhartt. We each give him a hug and usher him into the kitchen where a hot bowl of chili is placed in his hands. Dad serves as the unofficial though undisputed camp cook. Each year we are treated to a multitude of hearty meals— chili, lasagna, pork chops, and this year even biscuits and gravy—entrées fit for a U.P. supper club and catered to satisfy gnawing appetites carved out by a day afield. It’s a taste of home in the middle of the woods. Each meal is complemented by a plethora of libations—PBR, Coors Light, October Fest from a certain Wisconsin brewery (courtesy of my brother). Saturday evening is the masterful feast, a supreme celebration of the tradition of this nimrod pursuit—the joining of friends and brothers, the pleasant joys of a crisp autumn day in a wild place. Heads are bowed, a quick and eloquent grace bestowed. Salads, mashed garlic potatoes, slabs of buttery pork chops, are all hefted onto a real plastic plate (the china of any deer camp). The finest bottle of $5 grocery store red is uncorked and poured with a heavy hand. The dogs circle the table lapping at their chops, overwhelmed by the savory aromas and jovial commotion. Their diligence is rewarded with hunks of pork gristle that disappear into pink mouths before even gravity can have its say. Table cleared, dishes heaped into the bin for tomorrow’s washing, we recline on the sofas to listen to golden country twang out on the FM radio. Our digestion is assisted by an evening toddy (ginger ale and Seagram’s) and we talk in low tones that later crescendo as the whiskey loosens tongues. Fun is fun and whiskey turns to water. The talk peters out and now only the fire whispers and cracks. Then sleep has the final say.

We tromp through the brush in a picket line, checking one another’s pace by the bobbing of a hunter-orange hat in the quivering poplar leaves.

IV.

Now is the time for leaving. At least the preamble. The initial items are packed and stowed—plastic totes, duffles, sleeping bags. But there is still one more hunt. The clearing is awash in morning’s golden hues and the maples return the favor with an orange salute. We don the canvas and bird vests once more and load up the trucks. We venture somewhere nearby (a relative term—20 minutes is the minimum). We traverse over tag alder-choked streams that I am NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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convinced hold leviathan, primordial brook trout that have never conceived of the concept of a dry fly. I salivate. Another adventure for another time. We wend along a dirt track, too narrow for logging that one year (the exact year is lost to the annals), stamped with the print of moose hooves. We park in a roadside cutoff and suit up. Daisy and even old Bo squirm with anticipation. We divide our party. My brother and TM will follow after the finely tuned nose of Daisy. My dad, his friend and I will follow the wavering bubble compass on our vests. We depart in opposite directions in the poplar thicket and agree to convene in an hour. The morning is cool, and despite the sun, my fingers feel like cold stone. We tromp through the brush in a picket line, checking one another’s pace by the bobbing of a hunter-orange hat in the quivering poplar leaves. A woodcock flushes in a whirling panic to my far left and I pivot toward the sound, shotgun leveled and safety reflexively flicked off. It is exercise alone, as she has long since escaped. A bird flush is often like a steelhead strike in that it occurs exactly when you expect it to, and exactly when you do not. We clear the plot having roughed up a few poplars with 7½ birdshot, but not much of anything else. Off to the south, we hear a few dull coughs of a 20-gauge and hope our companions are connecting with more than empty air. We swivel back toward the trucks and rouse a few more indignant denizens of the poplar stand. A grouse flushes in a thunderous spurt like a motorcycle trying to kick over. She too is only heard and not seen, and I save the shot for another day. I clear the tangles and snarls of regrowth saplings and hit the dirt road. I break open my shotgun and sling it over my shoulder. My brother, TM and Daisy join us shortly and we are pleased to see my brother’s game vest is a few ounces heavier. We case our shotguns, then Daisy is stripped of electronics and put in the crate. We pass a hip flask of butterscotch schnapps, take a nip and toast the hounds! Our hunt, and our trip, is at an end.

tug of a hot shower and your own bed. Even from this distance, I can see the rusty hulks of the city’s ore docks, and Superior is whipped up to a rippled sheet. We are once again hurtling through space, zipping through the corridor of rocky outcrops and hardscrabble towns. We are returning to earth and I am jarred by the reentry process. I consider the benefits of the civilization to which we return. Clean clothes. A firm mattress instead of a sleeping bag. But I am not yet ready to surrender my feral tendencies. I am not yet ready to yield my hours of uninterrupted thinking as we jounced over rocky logging trails. I am not yet ready to concede the smell of cool fall air mixed with the sweat on my canvas shirt. I am not yet ready to capitulate the wildness of quarry you can pursue for the duration of your existence and never fully comprehend. But despite my selfish, stubborn resistance, I am overflowing with gratitude and a quiet contentment that can only be achieved through several days of hard walking in places without names. And for that, I can wait a whole year. Andrew VanDrie writes from Traverse City. vandrieand@gmail.com

We are outside of Marquette going in the wrong direction. Correct in the navigational sense but all muddled elsewhere— with the allure of the open skies and empty days to fill as you see fit at odds with the 32

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Left: A fine pilsner. Nothing quite soothes sore heels and a missed bird like a cold beer at hunt’s end. Bottom: It’s time to kick back for everyone, including the dogs.

I consider the benefits of the civilization to which we return. Clean clothes. A firm mattress instead of a sleeping bag. But I am not yet ready to surrender my feral tendencies. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Jacob’s Farm 3.0 A GENERATIONS-OLD FAMILY FARM STAYS IN FARMING BY OFFERING FOOD AND FUN FOR PEOPLE OF ALL AGES...AND, OF COURSE, THE CORN MAZE. By Kim Schneider / Photos by Dan Stewart

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Charlie Hunt runs through the corn maze at Jacob’s Farm.

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ar manager roman albaugh is heating a pot of lavender syrup for one of the day’s specialty cocktails, peeling orange garnishes with “Top Chef ”-style speed for another. On the opposite side of the enclosed barn patio, Chef Eric Daily tosses just-picked vegetables onto a sizzling skillet. He’ll add the mix to some frying rice and first serve a brideto-be and her bachelorette party, then a family with a young baby. And across the pond, Farm Manager Brett Hood (fortuitously a former kindergarten teacher) is coaching young visitors on how to toss seed bombs and the occasional gummy bear into a wildflower field that’s set to bloom in front of a massive corn field, which will become a Motown-themed maze at harvest time. As a live band sings, “And I think to myself, what a wonderful world,” farm owner Mike Witkop is likely thinking that very thing as he surveys the property homesteaded by his great-great-grandfather, a pair of friendly golden retrievers at his heels. “It’s great to see the potential I felt the farm had start to come to fruition,” he says. “I want it to have a more sustainable future, so we can keep it in the family for the next 100 years. Agriculture continues to change, just like every other industry, and you have to pivot.” Jacob’s Farm is a certified Centennial Farm with a future as both a home for fruit and grain crops and a gathering spot designed to be equally fun for visitors from ages 1 to 100—and in every season. The farm has long been known for its always-clever Jacob’s Corn Maze offered on fall weekends. But through a unique partnership between creative local entrepreneurs, the farm has been reinvented as a year-round entertainment venue where a day might start with stations for making bird feeders from pine cones, like today, then morph into an evening dance party with a silent disco. A steer skull that graces the wall of the enclosed patio along the original barn pays homage to the farm’s roots. Some 200 head of cattle once grazed on the very spot where today Chef Daily serves his farm-fresh menu. Jacob Witkop homesteaded the property in 1892, the date that appears under the skull, having moved to Traverse City from Bierrum, Holland. Jacob passed it to his son (Mike’s grandfather) John, who eventually sold it to Mike’s father, Hiram. Mike bought the farm from his father in the early 1980s and moved there while still working as a commercial banker. He quickly realized that his grandsons—the sixth generation of potential farm owners—wouldn’t get the same opportunity without a major pivot. Still, whatever the plan entailed, it had to honor the farm’s roots and Jacob—whose journey from Holland to America is a story in itself. Jacob lost his merchant ship in the late 1800s when it struck an iceberg and sank off the Russian coast. Penniless, according to the farm’s written history, it took him a year to work his way back home to Holland. Needing to find a new life for his family, he accepted an opportunity to come to America by helping to bring a ship full of hopeful immigrants to the new country. He then found his way to 36

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The Hunt family makes their way to the barn for some refreshments. Below (L-R): Cali Stewart pulls her brother Owen Stewart after choosing their pumpkins; Taking a ride through the property at Jacob’s Farm.

WHAT WE GET A charge OUT OF IS TO BE ABLE TO WALK OUT AND SEE FAMILIES HAVING A

good time. – Mike Witkop

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Traverse City, later that year sending for his wife, Pieterke, then pregnant, and their five children. Then, farming could support a family. Today, not so, says Mike. “You’re not going to have 40 acres of property and make a living off it as a farmer,” he says. “You have to have enough scale to justify all the equipment it takes to create a perfect cherry or apple. So, you have to be nimble and say, ‘What are my competitive advantages?’” The success of the annual fall corn maze validated the draw of the farm’s location—near Traverse City and on the route to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. The driveway is almost directly across from the entrance to Rove Estate Vineyard & Winery, and just a few miles from the popular restaurant/market Farm Club. Using savvy garnered in 33 years as a commercial banker, Mike studied successful ventures like Disney and did a comparative study of the cost of other recreational outings in the area. While still contemplating possibilities, his friend Nate Crane reached out. Crane, the owner of Rare Bird Brew Pub, knew the Witkop family and had been to parties in its classic barn. He and Troy Daily—a partner in running

corn maze. Spring brought fests for St. Patrick’s Day and Earth Day—all before summer’s grand opening. The partnership’s diversity has paid off in numerous ways. Troy Daily also runs events like Paddle for Pints and the area’s Brew Bus. On a typical day now, several beer and wine tour buses might stop by, wrapping Jacob’s Farm into their route, with 40 farm acres affording plenty of room to spread out. Wedding demand is picking up, and there are plans for a second wedding venue, paella dinners in the orchard and a future disc golf course. “It’s like we’re trying to walk this line between shock and awe and still be a casual environment,” Roman says. “We want to be totally family-friendly, dog-friendly and kid-friendly, so anybody feels they can come out and have a good time and don’t feel out of place at all. We also want to deliver a really high-quality product. As far as cocktails go, I’m striving to have people look at the menu and be like, ‘Whoa,’ and as soon as they take a sip say, ‘This is absolutely amazing. I can’t believe we’re at a farm getting serious craft cocktails.’” This day, a lavender lemonade cocktail is the unexpected hit, so Nate Crane makes a run to the store for several large

IT’S GREAT TO SEE THE potential I FELT THE FARM HAD START TO COME TO FRUITION. I WANT IT TO HAVE A MORE sustainable FUTURE, SO WE CAN KEEP IT IN THE FAMILY FOR THE NEXT 100 years. – Mike Witkop popular regional events—were looking for a larger venue. The trio visited Uncle John’s Cider Mill in St. Johns, Michigan, and using that operation as a model, are working to build a similar concept—and traffic—in Traverse City. They’re planting more fruit trees, says Crane, and are hoping future guests will come to pick strawberries, then stay for a cocktail and something to eat. They planted pumpkins for the fall—an heirloom variety they believe will create a very special patch. The farm already boasts 440 pear trees, 600 sweet cherry trees, five varieties of apples, corn for the maze, saskatoons and strawberries for the picking, and now barley being grown for local beer (served on-site) and a heritage variety of rye for a spirit to be used in future cocktails. The bounty lets both chef and bartenders curate a truly farm-fresh menu, Roman notes. Over three years, this team of outside-the-box thinkers became equal partners in the farm enterprise and honed their agritourism concept. When they launched last year’s shipwreck-themed corn maze, they added a haunted version as well as a 5K run, wildly popular donuts, pizza topped with local ingredients, live music and cocktails like hot cider with Mammoth Distilling’s spiced rum and cinnamon, cloves, allspice, anise and orange. The initial plan was to operate in seasonally warm weather, but liquor license rules requiring the venue to open every 30 days brought a new creative shift. Guests at well-attended winter events huddled around roaring fires and skied trails carved through the 38

bags of lemons to help satisfy demand for the drink made with Mammoth vodka, blueberry-infused honey, lemon juice, lavender syrup and a bit of sparkling water. Troy Daily is troubleshooting at other parts of the farm, taking a break only when his young girls arrive in their matching pink galoshes to make a pine cone feeder to hang on a tree near the playground. Owner Mike Witkop’s retrievers Waldo and Folger are making the rounds, like the true Jacob’s Farm celebrities they are. “People looking from the outside in might view it as somewhat crazy that we’re living right here on M-72 and having so much activity around,” Mike says. “You could look at it as a lemon—or can we make lemonade? Honestly, we can isolate ourselves, but what we get a charge out of is to be able to walk out and see families having a good time. And our golden retrievers? They love being petted and stealing donuts.” Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she’s the author of “100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die.” Dan Stewart is a documentary photographer, capturing weddings and lifestyle portraits in Northern Michigan. danstewartphotography.com

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Clockwise from top left: The Hunt family enjoys refreshments at the barn; The 10-acre corn maze at Jacob’s Farm has a new design each year; Cozy up on a bench and enjoy one of the farm’s craft cocktails; There are plenty of pumpkins to pick from each fall. Hazel Hunt is a fan of the cinnamon donuts.

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In Living Color A wild autumn color tour from Petoskey to Gaylord. By

LAUREL MANKE

Photos by

TAYLOR BROWN

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Left: Late fall foliage along US-31 on the way to Cheboygan. Below: Looking northeast at Little Traverse Bay with Petoskey State Park in the distance. Visiting Populace Coffee and historical businesses like Grandpa Shorter’s Gifts while in the Petoskey Downtown Historic District.

THE PRISTINE WOODLANDS east of Petoskey and

northeast of Gaylord are ripe with lesser-known fall foliage displays. Wherever the road takes you, autumn colors branch out in every direction. This day trip itinerary rambles through country roads from Petoskey to Pellston, borders Lake Huron’s expansive shores and explores unspoiled state forest lands north of Gaylord. Pack a picnic and a paper map and lose yourself “off the grid” to take in the sights of one of Northern Michigan’s loveliest seasons. Take Country Roads from PETOSKEY TO CHEBOYGAN Start your morning with fuel from one of Petoskey’s delightful cafes. (We opted for bagels and heartwarming lattés from Petoskey’s Populace Coffee.) Before embarking on your autumnal cruise, stretch your legs at downtown Petoskey’s Quarry Park overlooking Little Traverse Bay. Then, hop in your vehicle and head north. Rather than following the stream of color tourers on M-119, take Pleasantview Road northeast toward Pellston. The road less traveled offers more opportunities to take your time soaking in the region’s brilliant fall forests and rich golden meadows. The rolling hills along the route are lined by birch and maple forests, drenched in glowing crimson, marmalade and lemon curd hues. When you reach Pellston, take M-64 or M-66 northeast toward Cheboygan’s Lake Huron shores. If you’re a fudge lover, tack on a pit stop in Mackinaw City (northwest of Cheboygan) for a side of Mackinac Island fudge to go with your color tour. Emma Harrington, 8, and Kinsey Harrington, 8, build a fairy beach house along the fairy trails at The Botanic Garden at Historic Barns Park. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Enjoy Breathtaking Views of LAKE HURON ON THE ROAD TO PRESQUE ISLE As you head south from Cheboygan toward Rogers City, this charming lakeshore stretch is loaded with picturesque lookouts and prime picnic spots. What this waterfront route lacks in fall foliage (it’s mostly lined by pines) it more than makes up for in views of Lake Huron. Stop at each scenic turnout marked along the way to take in the panoramic scenes. We suggest packing a cooler full of refreshments and a paper map for navigation. This rustic corridor has sparse, sometimes non-existent, phone service and dining options. Plan a stop at Cheboygan State Park, Huron Dunes Roadside Park, Hoeft State Park or Thompson’s Harbor State Park to picnic and explore. Along the way, you’ll pass through Rogers City’s quaint downtown, located on the Lake Huron shoreline. Your next stop is Presque Isle’s peninsula, home to two historic lighthouses, including the tallest lighthouse tower accessible on the Great Lakes, the New Presque Isle Lighthouse. Take time to hike through the park’s cedar groves and sweeping rocky beaches. As you leave, it’s worth the detour to drive around Presque Isle’s Grand Lake to see the golden fall colors on its southwest and east sides.

Wherever the road takes you, autumn colors branch out in every direction.

Left: The outer breakwall at Presque Isle State Harbor ( just off the walking path to the Old Presque Isle Lighthouse). Be sure to make this stop! Above: The New Presque Isle Lighthouse is literally engulfed in fall color, made all the more beautiful by the nearby waters of Lake Huron. Right: The Old Presque Isle Lighthouse and the pathway to it. Ask any local about it being haunted, and they’ll tell you they’ve seen the lighthouse light up at night. (It’s been decommissioned since 1871.)

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CATCH A GLIMPSE OF

MICHIGAN’S ELK PIGEON RIVER COUNTRY STATE FOREST IS HOME TO ONE OF THE LARGEST FREE-ROAMING ELK HERDS EAST OF THE MISSISSIPPI, AND SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER (THEIR BREEDING SEASON) ARE THE BEST TIMES TO SPOT THE MIGHTY ANIMALS. THESE ARE OUR TOP TIPS FOR SEEING THEM IN THE WILD:

B E S T L O C AT I O N S T O V I E W E L K • FONTINALIS ROAD, ABOUT THREE MILES NORTH OF STURGEON VALLEY ROAD NEAR THE CHEBOYGAN COUNTY LINE • THE DNR ELK VIEWING AREA ON EAST STURGEON VALLEY ROAD, EIGHT MILES EAST OF VANDERBILT • LESS THAN ONE MILE NORTH OF THE OSMUN ROAD AND CLARK BRIDGE ROAD INTERSECTION IN THE PIGEON RIVER COUNTRY STATE FOREST

E L K-V I E W I N G D O ’ S A N D D O N ’ T S • AVOID LARGE CROWDS WITH A MID-WEEK TRIP. • PACK YOUR BINOCULARS OR SPOTTING SCOPES. • VIEW ELK FROM YOUR CAR AND DO NOT APPROACH THE ANIMALS. • FOR BEST RESULTS, VIEW AT DAWN AND DUSK. ELK ARE MOST OFTEN VISIBLE WHEN FEEDING IN OPEN, GRASSY AREAS. VISIT MICHIGAN.GOV/DNR FOR MORE ELK VIEWING TIPS FROM THE DEPARTMENT OF NATURAL RESOURCES.

Head Inland to OCQUEOC FALLS AND PIGEON RIVER COUNTRY STATE FOREST Head northeast from Presque Isle on US-23 and then M-68 to Ocqueoc Falls, the largest waterfall in Michigan’s Lower Peninsula. From the parking lot, a short pathway leads to a universally accessible viewing area surrounded by six miles of wooded hiking and biking trails. After experiencing the falls, head southwest through Onaway toward Pigeon River Country State Forest, a wild woodland just a few miles northeast of Gaylord. The state forest spans more than 100,000 acres of completely undeveloped forestland. Occasionally referred to as the “Big Wild,” Pigeon River Country State Forest contains seemingly endless webs of wooded dirt roads, sprawling meadows and inland lakes. (For smoother navigation, we suggest a vehicle with four-wheel drive and a detailed map of the area.) The untamed woods offer virtually limitless opportunities for hiking, horseback riding, camping, fishing and elk viewing (see the sidebar for elk viewing tips!). Brave the wilderness to enjoy a truly stunning yellow canopy of fall foliage. 44

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Opposite: Elk in Gaylord’s City Elk Park, the guaranteed place to spot elk if you end up empty handed after a day of searching in the wild; Huge slab steps lead down to the Ocqueoc Falls. Left: Ocqueoc Falls from above. One set in a series of nearby falls. Below: Location unknown, even to photographer Taylor Brown. “Somewhere in the network of Pigeon River Country State Forest that I should have had a map of before entering and losing reception! Or was that the fun part?”

D R I N K I N FA L L F O L I A G E F R O M A

TASTING ROOM EACH OF THE PETOSKEY WINE REGION’S 14 WINERIES HAVE BEAUTIFUL TASTING ROOMS. THESE ARE JUST A HANDFUL; FIND MORE AT PETOSKEY.WINE.

POND HILL FARM HARBOR SPRINGS AN ICONIC PLACE TO STOP IN THE FALL, COMPLETE WITH A WINERY, BREWERY, CAFE, BIERGARTEN, MARKET, LIVESTOCK BARN, PLAYGROUND AND PUMPKIN PATCH.

BOYNE VALLEY VINEYARDS PETOSKEY A WELCOMING PATIO, LAWN AND TASTING ROOM WITH TALL, VAULTED CEILINGS AND LIVE MUSIC SET THE SCENE FOR A LAIDBACK WINE TASTING EXPERIENCE.

MAPLE MOON SUGARBUSH & WINERY PETOSKEY TASTE TAP-TO-TABLE MAPLE WINES FOR A SWEET PIT STOP AT AMERICA’S FIRST MAPLE WINERY.

PETOSKEY FARMS VINEYARD & WINERY PETOSKEY GRAB A SEAT ON THE COVERED PATIO OVERLOOKING 22 ACRES OF REMARKABLE ROLLING HILLS AND SCENIC COUNTRYSIDE LADEN WITH A RAINBOW OF FALL COLOR HUES.

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Savor a RELAXING EVENING IN GAYLORD Recharge after a full day of epic adventures at one of Gaylord’s marvelous breweries and eateries. Snowbelt Brewing Company and Big Buck Brewery are ideal venues for unwinding with a cold craft beer. Gaylord’s lovable downtown decorated in an alpine motif offers many warm and welcoming havens after a long day on the road. We had a cozy meal at The Bearded Dogg Lounge, which offers a menu utilizing local ingredients, (including bison!), an extensive beverage list and a fireplace that is perfect on autumn days. Laurel Manke is a Traverse City-based freelance writer, blogger at minorthernsoul.com and co-owner of Slabtown Marketing. Taylor Brown is a real estate photographer in Traverse City.

HAVE MORE TIME ? THIS REGION OFFERS SO MUCH MORE THAN A ONE-DAY CAR TOUR CAN CONTAIN. WE SUGGEST EXPANDING YOUR ITINERARY TO INCLUDE SOME NOT-BY-CAR COLOR TOUR OPTIONS IN THE PETOSKEY AND GAYLORD AREAS.

HIKE TO A STUNNING VIEW DEAD MAN’S HILL OVERLOOK FEATURES BREATHTAKING VIEWS OF THE JORDAN RIVER VALLEY THAT STUN IN EVERY SEASON, BUT ESPECIALLY IN FALL. THE MAPLE-COVERED HILL EARNED ITS NAME FROM A FATAL INCIDENT WITH A LUMBER CART IN 1910. IT’S ONE OF THE AREA’S MOST EXTRAORDINARY FALL LOOKOUTS, EASILY ACCESSIBLE VIA A SHORT UPHILL WALK FROM A PARKING AREA. SOAK IN MORE OF THE VIEW BY TREKKING THE AREA’S 3.1-MILE HIKING LOOP.

E N J O Y T H E D I S P L AY F R O M A WAT E R WAY KAYAK OR CANOE ANY OF THE REGION’S RIVERS TO SEE FALL FOLIAGE FROM A DIFFERENT VANTAGE POINT. THE AREA’S AU SABLE RIVER IS POPULAR AMONG PADDLERS IN THE NORTH. BRING YOUR OWN BOAT OR RENT FROM CARLISLE CANOE LIVERY, BORCHERS CANOE & KAYAK OR PENROD’S AU SABLE CANOE & KAYAK, FOR A DAY FLOATING UNDER THE FIERY FALL DISPLAY. NOTE: WATER TEMPERATURES WILL BE COLD IN THE FALL.

GET A BIRD’S EYE VIEW FROM THE SLOPES AND GREENS GAYLORD’S TREETOPS RESORT OFFERS FUN FALL EVENTS, INCLUDING THE OPPORTUNITY TO TAKE THE CHAIRLIFT UP THE SLOPES FOR PANORAMIC VIEWS OF THE REGION’S COLORFUL HILLS. OTSEGO RESORT OFFERS SIMILAR OPTIONS, INCLUDING TAKING A GOLF CART TOUR OF THEIR HILLY RESORT FEATURING MANY COLORFUL VISTAS. CHECK OUT TREETOPS.COM AND OTSEGOCLUB.COM FOR THIS SEASON’S SCHEDULE.

TA K E I N T H E V I E W O N T W O W H E E L S

Left: The sun sets over undeveloped land and US-131. Above: Taylor seeks refuge at Snowbelt Brewing Co. in Gaylord while a small rain storm marks an end to the day’s adventures.

SEVERAL DIRT AND PAVED BIKE PATHS IN THE AREA WELCOME BIKERS TO HIT THE TRAILS AND SOAK UP FALL COLORS. MOUNTAIN BIKERS LOVE LOUIS M. GROEN NATURE PRESERVE’S 20 MILES OF TWO-TRACK TRAILS FOR HIKERS AND CYCLISTS. FOR A MORE LEISURELY RIDE, CHECK OUT HOEFT STATE PARK JUST NORTH OF ROGERS CITY IN PRESQUE ISLE COUNTY TO RIDE ITS 4.5-MILE PAVED PATH THAT WINDS THROUGH MIXED HARDWOOD FORESTS ALONG THE LAKE HURON SHORELINE. CHECK OUT TRAILSCOUNCIL.ORG FOR A DETAILED MAP OF MORE THAN 300 MILES OF NON-MOTORIZED TRAILS IN THE REGION.

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The

y r e t s y M and the

Tragedy

Burnt Bluff of

Doug Hagley

The only prehistoric rock drawings in Michigan are fading into oblivion from neglect and vandalization.

Can they be saved?

s long ago as the early Woodland period (24001400 bp—before present), one or more native people landed on a rocky beach on the northern shore of what is now the Lake Michigan coastline of the Upper Peninsula. On the 400-million-year-old, white limestone cliffs and in some of the 166 rock shelters and shallow caves formed as lake levels rose and fell over the millennia, indigenous people used durable stains made from mineral pigments and animal fats to paint figures of men and animals in red, orange and blue. Burnt Bluff, on the Garden Peninsula, lies along this coastline and is home to the only prehistoric rock painting site known to have ever existed in the state. The Garden Peninsula is a narrow finger of land extending south into Lake Michigan between Manistique and Escanaba. The cliffs here stretch along one-half mile of the western shore of the peninsula, overlooking Big Bay de Noc. Over the past 50 years, human activity has damaged the most extraordinary Burnt Bluff image of all—that known as “Spider Man.” The other paintings have simply fallen off or 48

faded away. While arguably inevitable, the loss of these messages from prehistory is incalculable. In the 1960s and 1970s, Mr. and Mrs. Henry Lange operated a tourist business at the site, charging admission to see the paintings, which were on their property. The Langes eventually attempted to sell the property to a private investor, but the buyer defaulted and it reverted to bank ownership and then to Fayette Historic State Park, which has administered it with benign neglect by simply closing the site to the public. In the 1980s, I was awarded a research grant from the University of Michigan Rackham School of Graduate Studies to photograph Michigan’s prehistoric rock art as part of my Master of Fine Arts program. Parking my car at the end of a dead-end road, I walked the quarter mile back to the Burnt Bluff cliff edge and through the remnants of the Lange's tourist business: an overgrown picnic area and a crumbling stone patio fronting a building with locked doors and curtained windows. From the top of the bluff, stairs descended 140 feet through a series of landings to the beach. A spectacular view of the lake and the sound of the wind in the birches created a feeling that this is a sacred place, a feeling that

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Left: Formerly referred to as “Urinating Man,” now called “Falling Man,” this is the clearest of the paintings on the presentday beach level. The color appears to have been augmented in modern times. Photo by Doug Hagley, 1985. Below: The Spider Man, circa 1960. Photo courtesy of Avery Studios; The Spider Man as seen in 1985. Photo by Doug Hagley.

intensified as I explored the ledges and caves below. In keeping with their sense of oneness with the natural world, prehistoric Native Americans often ascribed magical qualities to dramatic locations like this. The wooden stairs, constructed by Mr. Lange, were spongy and moss-covered. About two-thirds of the way down, a trail led off to the south. Sheltered by cedars and birches, this path follows a narrow ledge—the remnant of an ancient beach when the lake level was much higher than it is today. Along this ledge are the Burnt Bluff caves, formed by the action of freezing and thawing, causing the sedimentary limestone rock to fracture and crumble in geometric chunks. The caves, perhaps better called rock shelters, are shallow and open, the mouths being wider than the depth in most cases. Spider Cave is the largest and most significant in the area, some 20 feet across and a little less deep. The roof, though still supported by two 12-foot pillars, was collapsing bit by bit. The floor was littered with jagged chunks of limestone. One of the pillars had some faint red stains on it— paintings so badly weathered that they seem imaginary. Local teenagers were also in evidence—cigarette butts and beer cans on the floor of the cave and graduation dates

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spray-painted on the walls. A spray-painted stick figure of a moose obscures another of the badly faded red stains. Just outside the southern wall of the cave, on the right face of a sheltered, triangular niche, is the painting for which the cave is named. The Spider Man is the most famous and enigmatic of the images at this site because of its peculiar symbolism. A rusty brown, humanoid figure is connected by what appears to be an umbilical cord to a spiderlike creature below him. The cord forms an arc over the figure’s head, though the top portion of the painting is partially obliterated by the precipitation of minerals out of the limestone rock face.

Top: Burnt Bluff from the air, showing caves and rock shelters. Photo by Doug Hagley, 1985. Bottom: The large panel on the present-day beach, including "Falling Man" (right) and an extremely faded figure, “Big Man” (left). Photo by Doug Hagley, 1985.

Many interpretations have been offered for this painting, though all are purely speculative. Living native elders tell their own stories. Some anthropologists suggest that it depicts a shaman, or medicine man, in a sweat lodge. (The sweat lodge was a sort of sauna in which holy men sought visions through fasting and sweating.) In this interpretation, the arch represents the lodge, and the spider-like form the fire, with the spider’s legs representing logs extending radially from the center. A primary objection to this idea is the jointed aspect of the “legs,” which belies their signification as “logs.” In the bulbous portion of the 50

spider’s body is the rock that when heated in the fire was carried into the lodge and doused with water, creating the steam that purified the shaman and carried his prayers to the gods. This painting may be one of the few examples that attempt to indicate perspective: the objects appearing below the figure are in the foreground. The “spider” is like no spider we know, with 16 legs gathered at one end of the oval body. That the humanoid figure is attached by an umbilical cord to this creature is extraordinary. What is the relationship between the spider and the presumed human? The painting is clearly a dream, a nightmare or a vision. There is nothing like it anywhere else in North America, or anywhere in the world for that matter. As with all prehistoric rock art, we can never know what it means. In the mid-1960s, a team of archaeologists led by Dr. James Fitting from the University of Michigan conducted excavations and a survey of the Burnt Bluff area. In Spider Cave there was no evidence of pottery or tools, the usual signs of habitation. It is unlikely that anyone ever lived there. However, more than 100 broken arrowheads and spear tips were found in Spider Cave. The journal of an 18thcentury explorer suggests a reason: witnesses described a cliff in northern Minnesota with rock paintings and numerous clefts into which Indians were seen to shoot arrows as they passed by in their canoes. Presumably this held some magical or ritual significance: firing into the cave may have been considered an offering for good luck in hunting. In addition to Spider Cave, the University of Michigan team discovered several other sites of interest at Burnt Bluff. A smaller cave, 300 feet from the nearest pictograph and probably not associated with it, contained 247 bone fragments and teeth representing at least six individuals, including two infants that had been buried together on a birch bark mat resting on conifer poles. Charcoal from the cave containing human remains was dated at about 375 AD, though there is no way to correlate this date with the age of Spider Man and the other paintings. Comparisons of the Burnt Bluff paintings with rock art sites in northern Minnesota and Canada suggest some stylistic affinities, and would seem to place the Burnt Bluff images in what is referred to as the Middle Woodland period (300 BC to 800 AD). It is worthwhile noting that the ancestors of contemporary Native People of the Great Lakes region, according to their own legends and the archaeological evidence, migrated from the Atlantic Coast (today’s Maine and New Brunswick) around 900 AD, in other words, a century after the era in which these paintings are believed to have been created. This migration and timeline are traced in “The Mishomis Book” by Edward Benton-Banai,

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(University of Minnesota Press, Second Edition, 2010). The author, an Anishinaabe Ojibwe who died last year, was a founder of the American Indian Movement and grand chief of the Three Fires Midewiwin Lodge in Wisconsin.

In 2015, The Wisconsin Archaeologist published a paper by Alex Ruuska (NMU) and Ruth Ann Armitage (EMU) stating that all of the paintings at Burnt Bluff had either faded, peeled off the surface of the cliff (a process referred to as “spalling”) or been obliterated by a combination of After photographing spider man, I descended to the natural processes and human activity, mostly the latter. beach. The last part of the stairway had washed away, reThe human activity includes spray-painted graffiti and placed with a rickety ladder. About a quarter mile north water damage caused by visitors wetting the images to inof the stairs was/is a series of paintings at eye level on the tensify their color. Applying water to the pictographs cliff face. Most were only faded patches of red; they would promotes the growth of lichen and moss, but far worse, it be hard to find if it weren’t for the black arrows that Mr. causes minerals from the cliff to dissolve and be deposited Lange painted on the cliff next to them. However, two over the images. The 2015 report claimed only two of the were distinguishable: one referred to as “Big Man” and an16 legs of the spider creature were still visible. other that archaeologists called “Urinating Man.” It should be noted that the Michigan State Historic Big Man, totally exposed to the elements, was exPreservation Office, now responsible for maintaining the tremely faint. It was the largest of the paintings on the site under the auspices of Fayette Historic State Park, beach-side panel, approximately two feet high. Its distindisputes the findings of the 2015 report. A spokesperson guishing features were upraised forearms, terminating in for the state told me she had visited the site, and while it accurately depicted hands, including thumbs, and a phalis still deteriorating, she says the claims of The Wisconsin lus jutting out from the side of the figure. The hands in Archaeologist authors are greatly exaggerated. most prehistoric rock art Whether the report is are normally depicted in a accurate or not, there is an more minimalist manner. increasing sense of urgency The open arms suggested a surrounding the rock art. The truth is that all rock art The local tribes, who feel beckoning or welcoming gesture. This painting was ownership of the paintings, interpretations are nothing done in the iron-based pighave been exploring presermore than Rorschach tests ment, red ochre, that is the vation alternatives with the basis of all of the art at state, and there are very few. for the viewer. Burnt Bluff. There are only two To the right of Big plausible, though marginMan, the Urinating Man ally effective, approaches figure, depicted in deep red tones, appears to be dancing to solving the problem of human damage: exclusion and or falling, and it was clearer than any other image at the education. The state has been practicing exclusion at Burnt site. Dr. Susan Martin, retired Michigan Tech archaeBluff simply by closing the site to the public, and because ologist, told me at the time that it looked as though it the paintings are physically difficult to access anyway, this had been "enhanced" with nonfading red marker, probaction has produced a modicum of protection. However, ably by the Langes for easier viewing. The arms up anyone bent on vandalism can get there: short of a 24thrown, the figure was drawn bending backward. A red hour custodian it’s impossible to keep people out. arc began at the center of the body and extended downAs it seems likely that the vandalism at Burnt Bluff, in ward in a curve to the right, suggesting, some feel, that particular, is caused either by the careless partying of local the figure was urinating. youth or inadvertently by photographers wetting the paintI can’t speak for every man of every culture, but I’ve ings, a program in the local schools emphasizing the impornever peed while falling over backward, and it seems a tance of the Burnt Bluff site could be helpful. When highly unlikely scenario. Not surprisingly, this interpreresidents have a sense of ownership and pride in their spetation is unique to Burnt Bluff (or rather to the observer cial place, they are theoretically less likely to destroy it. Signs who proposed it), probably because it is so implausible. warning photographers of the danger of their activities A more likely interpretation is that the figure is falling might be helpful, but would also draw attention to the site. back, wounded, and the red line is blood. Or the arc is These are not answers, but may delay the inevitable. The being used to indicate the direction of movement, state, the tribes and conservationists are largely impotent. though that style is unknown for artists of that period. In time, the paintings at Burnt Bluff will disappear one Today’s archaeologists favor the “falling figure” interpreway or another, and all that will remain are photographs tation. The truth is that all rock art interpretations are taken over the years. nothing more than Rorschach tests for the viewer. No matter what your heritage, there is absolutely no way for Doug Hagley holds a B.S. and a Master of Fine Arts from a person of today to see into the mind of the ancient artthe University of Michigan. As part of a Michigan Hisist who created this image. That is the intrinsic frustratory Division archaeological team he excavated the Carp tion posed by prehistoric art. River Forge in Negaunee (now the Michigan Iron Industry Museum) and the Father Marquette Mission in St. Ignace, That was 36 years ago. currently the Museum of Ojibwa Culture and Mission Park. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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IDEAS, IDEAS, IDEAS

his year, for the second year

in a row, we are keeping our home tour virtual so that we can keep everyone safe—and because our tourgoers loved the idea of exploring these homes from the comfort of their own homes. The 2021 Northern Home & Cottage Virtual Home Tour launches Oct. 29, 2021. Purchase tickets at MyNorthTickets.com. You’ll be glad to know that all proceeds from ticket sales benefit Child & Family Services of Northwestern Michigan. One of the things I love the most about our annual home tours are the ideas, both dreamy and practical, that we can all gather. On the dreamy side, let’s begin with water views from the windows of each of these homes. Sigh. Yes. OK, here are more dreamy ideas: a want-want, two-sided gas fireplace between the master bedroom and the great room; inset LED lighting in the ceiling beams and moulding; built-in bunk beds for the grandkids (a set on each side with steps between them); a fireplace facade made of Mesabi Black granite; a full butler’s kitchen adjacent to the main kitchen. And how about a kitchen range that looks out over the treetops to Lake Michigan—I’d be cooking all day! On the practical side: How great would it be to have an on-demand hot water heater (never run out of hot water when you have a full house); a drawer microwave (saves reaching up at odd angles); a work-station sink; a Wolf Range and an induction pad set into the countertop for heating up water in a nano-second; a pot-filler and a pop-up stainless backsplash behind your range to catch flying grease. Finally, I’d love to have the eye, as one of our homeowners has, for finding really great art at antique and secondhand stores! Please take time out from your busy schedules to put your feet up and take our virtual tour. I guarantee you will be delighted that you did.

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collections

WINE CELLARS DU NORD

As our region’s vineyards flourish, Northern Michigan’s wine cellars are keeping up in style and function. Savor this sampler-flight of some of the best! BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS

INTO THE BARREL Location: Lake Leelanau Builder/Designer: Scott Norris Construction

photo by Caleb Norris

BUILDER AND DESIGNER Scott Norris of Scott Norris Construction turned his clients’ vision into reality with this head-turner crafted to hold both spirits and wine. A barrel-shaped ceiling, Chicago brick walls, backlighting on the spirits, wine cradles fashioned from iron rods and rustic handcrafted shelves all combine to make this more than just a wine cellar. Shall we spend the weekend?

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WINE CELLARS DU NORD

BEDROOM FLIP Location: Old Mission Peninsula Builder: MAC Custom Homes Designer: Dorina Rudd

ISSUE: What to do with a son’s bedroom when he leaves home? ANSWER: Why, of course, make it a wine cellar!

photo by Windborne Studio

That’s exactly what these homeowners did. Note the glass wall/ door separation from the wine storage area, the wine barrel tables and custom wainscoting that the homeowner made from wine boxes. The floor is polished concrete and the ceiling is straw plaster for an old-world look. The inset graced with an antique lamp is another fabulous old-world touch. The bonus to this great idea? It’s still their son’s favorite room in the house and where he loves to hang out (with his parents!) when he is home visiting.

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WINE CELLARS DU NORD

SIP BETWEEN FLIGHTS? Location: Leland Builder: Biggs Construction

THIS PERFECTLY APPOINTED wine cellar is actually tucked just a half-flight down from the main floor and a half-flight up from the basement level. Ebony Gloss paint by Pittsburgh Paints and intentional lighting keep the spotlight on the wine. The wife found the painting of an Italian village (very fitting in a wine cellar!) at the Ann Arbor Art Fair. The wooden slab embossed with the phrase, "With Good Wine—there should be Music!" is courtesy of the husband who is known for his playlists. The small table, made by Edgework Creative in Columbus, Ohio, is for opening and tasting bottles of wine. The racks have an industrial vibe to complement the home’s similar feel. “The racks are separated into the reachable (help yourself) and the not reachable (Do not make a big mistake!),” says the wife. She also adds that the wine cellar is “intentionally simple,” as the home’s great room and deck with their Lake Michigan views are the preferred places for wine sipping.

photo by Todd Zawistowski

Architect: Richmond Architects

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I N T R O D U C I N G

T H E

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team has decided to host our beloved home tour virtually once again in 2021. So, please, mark Oct. 29 on your calendar, and block off time to relax and enjoy this

year’s event: We are featuring eight in-depth video tours through some of Northern Michigan’s most intriguing and gorgeous houses. The feedback we heard from last year’s virtual tour was overwhelmingly positive. Tour-goers loved the intimate look that the digital format

F E AT U R E D S P O N S O R S

gave of the homes, as well as the accompanying in-depth interviews with the homeowners and builders. This year, our virtual tour-goers will again find out how our homeowners turned their dreams into reality and will meet the local builders, vendors, contractors and architects who helped. We couldn’t host these tours without our official sponsor, GoldenFowler Home Furnishings headquartered in Traverse City. Owner Mike

V I D E O G R A P H Y PA R T N E R

Mahn is a pivotal figure in the Northern Michigan community and a true philanthropist. His dedication to children’s causes in our region continues to amaze our staff. Read about Golden-Fowler’s involvement at goldenfowler.com/about. Thank you, Mike, and Golden-Fowler Home Furnishings for sponsoring the tour! Just like our annual commitment over the past decade, this year’s

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revenue from the tour goes to Child and Family Services of Northwestern Michigan. The homeowners on this year’s tour have truly opened their homes to help a child.

Accessing the tour is easy! Follow the steps below. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

HEAD TO MYNORTH.COM/TOUR21. MAKE A SUGGESTED DONATION OF $15 TO SUPPORT CHILD AND FAMILY SERVICES OF NORTHWESTERN MICHIGAN AND GET YOUR TICKET. WATCH FOR AN EMAIL WITH A UNIQUE PASSWORD. ON OCT. 29, YOU'LL RECEIVE ANOTHER EMAIL WITH A LINK TO THE VIRTUAL TOUR PAGE. ENTER YOUR PASSWORD AND YOU WILL FIND ALL THE HOMES READY TO VIEW! WANT TO SEE THEM AGAIN AND AGAIN? NO PROBLEM. THE VIRTUAL TOUR WILL STAY UP UNTIL THE END OF 2021.

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very now and then a building site and a builder/designer come together to create something extraordinary. Such is the case with the Why House, built by Scott Norris Construction and designed in collaboration with Scott’s son, Caleb, of Norris Design Productions. The home is situated on wooded ridges with Lake Michigan splashing across the horizon—a view that spans the Manitou and Fox Islands. Scott has made a name for himself for his ability to build and design homes that are at-one with their sites, as well as his passion for wood and woodworking. After viewing several of Scott’s projects, the home-owners knew that he would be a perfect fit for their home. While the husband had some clear ideas about layout, the wife expressed mainly that the home reflect the property, including taking advantage of the stunning water and forest views. Then, almost as an afterthought, she told Scott that she had always loved architect Frank Lloyd Wright’s famous Fallingwater home for its cantilevers over a waterfall. From that point, says Scott, the homeowners gave him a free hand to design the home. Fallingwater’s design inspired Scott to put two cantilevers into his design—one houses the master bedroom and the other a sunroom. Both spill out over the site’s wooded ridges, placing them at tree-top level, thus exposing the lake views on the horizon and making the home feel as though it is a treehouse. The cantilevers jut out from the great room in a Y-shape, so that the home’s layout resembles the letter—and was nicknamed the Why House by the crew who worked on it. Generous windows make the most of the view; a double-bank of clerestory windows ensures that the home is light-filled from morning until dusk. Massive Douglas fir ceiling trusses fabricated from repurposed timbers and a hickory floor lend the home an organic modern look that is carried into the kitchen where a waxed, maple-slab island countertop, fabricated from a tree taken down by a storm, sets the tone. Honeycolored maple built-ins, constructed by Scott’s team in their cabinet shop, harmonize with the setting outside the counter-to-ceiling windows. The range butts up to a window (allowing the cook to enjoy the treetop view!). The exterior is clad in CertainTeed in three different widths and stained in three different shades of redwood to make it feel like real wood. Opposing shed roofs in two different heights, black-framed windows and doors and a facade embellished with a stacked stone wall and handsome trussed portico all work together to make this home a true standout.

The Why House The skills of builder and designer Scott Norris shine in this unique home tucked among ridges in Leelanau County.

TEXT BY

ELIZABETH EDWARDS

RESOURCES BUILDER/DESIGNER:

SCOTT NORRIS CONSTRUCTION SCOTTNORRISCONSTRUCTION.COM FIND MORE RESOURCES LINK.MYNORTH.COM/HOME1

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It starts with a place.

We add clear communication, punctuality, collaboration, and exceptional craftsmanship.

40 YEARS IN NORTHERN MICHIGAN \\ 231.941.1448 \\ GALLERY AT PAULMAURER.COM

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his sweet, wooded site on the Crystal River, just outside downtown Glen Arbor, called out for a modern farmhouse. Owners David and Mary Bird and builder Colin Bushong of CMB Construction delivered. From the get-go, this home’s design and building process was a collaborative effort between Colin and the Birds. On the exterior, the crisp white home with its covered porch, classic black-clad sash windows and equally classic dormer inset with black-clad paned windows emits a subtle aura of stepping back in time. Indeed, it echoes Glen Arbor’s beloved late 19th-century mill, located just up the river from this home. The interior has a similarly timeless feel—albeit outfitted with state-of-the art amenities. The great room’s high ceiling that rises 20 feet at its peak, white walls—including a generous use of shiplap—and a warm hickory floor are the backdrop for the view of the woods and the serene river out the windows. Come evening, however, the focus shifts to a fabulous two-sided gas fireplace (clad in black soapstone) that shares its other side with the master bedroom. As open as the floor plan is, there is enough definition to the space to make it feel intimate. A four-season sunroom off the great room is a quiet spot for reading or just contemplating the river. Mary and Dave each have offices off the foyer. Mary’s office doubles as the laundry room, but thanks both to a window with a view of the woods and to Colin’s clever woodwork designs that cover the mechanicals, it is a lovely room to work in. The open kitchen is defined by a generous 6-by-6-foot island topped in marble-like macaubas quartzite. The perimeter counters are honed ocean-black granite and the backsplash is tumbled marble subway tiles. A series of three small black-metal pendants over the sink and two similar larger pendants over the island add an industrial feel that is repeated in the magnificent black steel stair railing, fabricated by Wheelock & Sons Welding in Traverse City. Due to a stroke suffered by a family member, Mary is sensitive to the need for Universal Design (once known as Aging in Place) features in her home, including a drawer microwave that is set into the kitchen island—a design that is safer and easier than reaching up for hot items. Other Universal Design elements in the home include lever faucet handles, lever doorknobs and a low-sided bathtub in the guest bath (which is also American Disabilities Act compliant). Bushong’s attention to detail and craftsmanship are everywhere in this home, from the many built-ins in the great room to the bathroom vanities, the cladding on the Jacuzzi tub and the handsome mantel in the master bedroom. All are made from sandblasted cedar for a sophisticated look at an economical price. The exceptional working relationship between Bushong and the Birds shows in this well-thought-out home. It was so exceptional, in fact, that by the end of the project, Colin hired Mary to help with interior design on his future building projects.

On the Banks of Crystal River A lovely riverside property gets a fitting home.

TEXT BY

ELIZABETH EDWARDS

RESOURCES BUILDER/DESIGNER:

COLIN BUSHONG CMB CONSTRUCTION CMBQUALITY.COM FIND MORE RESOURCES LINK.MYNORTH.COM/HOME2

NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021

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renderconstruction.com Photo by Greg MacMaster, Eagle Eye Video Productions

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Photo: Jeff Garland

Preserve, Protect & Restore your shoreline. With 40 years experience in the landscape industry, Rockworks has gained extensive knowledge and best practices implemented in both residential & commercial projects. We utilize the latest engineering to maximize the structural integrity as well as the aesthetics. Specializing in challenging sites with design and installation of re retaining walls, shoreline erosion control and streambank restoration using boulders, rip rap, angular or stackable stone. Ask about barge installation options. Call today to discuss your retaining project!

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Furnishing your weekend or lake home in the Traverse City area? Our talented designers make house calls! Just ask and they’ll come to you, bringing all the attention and expertise you expect from Ethan Allen. Trust your design project to creative professionals who excel at problem solving and personal service. They can help you furnish your summer cottage, lake house, or weekend getaway from start to finish; they’ll even design custom window treatments for your entire home. Our design services are always complimentary—so relax; we have this! Schedule a home call or virtual appointment today, or visit one of our area Design Centers for details.

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n the beginning, Ralph and Sally Beebe had every intention of remodeling their 1970s-era cottage on Green Lake. With its small windows and chopped up living area, the home hardly made the most of the site’s lovely lake views. Worse yet, the master bedroom was on the road side, so no inspirational wake-up lake view there! The Beebes took their ideas to architect Sarah Bourgeois who determined that the home—right down to its foundation and footings—wasn’t worth saving. Rather than being upset, the Beebes were delighted that they had an opportunity to completely customize their home to their lifestyle, from the ground up. To gather ideas, Sally rolled up her sleeves and scoured both Pinterest and Houzz for inspiration, which she shared with Bourgeois. Since the lot is nonconforming, Bourgeois worked within the old cottage’s footprint, creating a plan for a cottage with an open living area that would sleep a number of houseguests. She also delivered on the vaulted and beamed ceiling that the couple asked for, as well as a master suite on the lake side of the home. Then she did one more important thing: Bourgeois introduced them to Bill Archer of Archer Contracting and his project manager, Jason Vanderford. “We were immediately comfortable with them,” Vanderford says. From that point on, the Beebes describe the working process between Bourgeois, Archer, Vanderford and themselves as extremely collaborative. All put their ideas into the discussion—and the team from Archer Construction, including trim carpenter Shaun Donahue, contributed their carpentry expertise. “It turned out to be a showcase for our team’s woodworking talents,” Vanderford says. On the exterior, a combination of natural stone, gable truss-work and shingles set the stage for a rustic Craftsman feel. The interior continues the feel with a stone-faced fireplace and kitchen island and an extensive use of knotty alder on the ceiling, trim, beams and custom window valances. Vanderford is particularly proud of the way his carpenters mitered the edges of the vaulted ceiling. “It [the knotty alder boards] came together perfectly, so there was no need for trim,” he says. The fine woodwork is the backdrop for the Green Lake views that span the home’s lakeside. That vista is accentuated by the way the home is situated, so that it appears to be perched right over the water. And that view is repeated in their new master suite—one of the couple’s favorite rooms in the home. “The way the home is set, you don’t see our lawn,” Sally says. “All you see is water. It looks like you are basically on the lake.” The Beebes can’t say enough about their home and its building process. On a happily-ever-after note, they have become personal friends of Archer and of Vanderford, who has brought his children over to play. “It was all just awesome,” Ralph says. “And it turned into our dream place.”

Rustic Craftsman on Green Lake What happens when the best-laid plans need to be scrapped? In this case, the homeowners ended up with their dream home.

TEXT BY

E LIZ ABE TH E DWAR DS

RESOURCES BUILDER:

ARCHER CONTRACTING COMPANY ARCHERCONTRACTING.COM FIND MORE RESOURCES LINK.MYNORTH.COM/HOME3

NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021

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Modern Craftsman Overlooking East Bay Stellar views, cutting-edge style and quality craftsmanship come together in this head-turning home.

TEXT BY

ELIZABETH EDWARDS

RESOURCES BUILDER/DESIGNER:

NORTHWEST CARPENTRY, LLC NORTHWESTCARPENTRY.COM FIND MORE RESOURCES LINK.MYNORTH.COM/HOME4

ven the driveway to this home is spectacular. Up, up it winds and winds until it reaches the top of a bluff with a wide-open view of East Grand Traverse Bay. Stunning. Homeowners Andrew and Ashley Purcell kept their eye on the property for several years while visiting friends Up North from their home in Grand Rapids. About the time Andrew finished graduate school, the price dropped and the couple jumped at the chance to purchase it, with the dream of moving north and starting their family. Several years later, after working hard to pay down the property, they were ready to build. They met their builder, Steve Eveleigh of Northwest Carpentry, at a home builders show where, after seeing the awards he’s chalked up over the years, they approached him for the job. From the get-go, this striking home was a collaboration between the Purcells, Eveleigh and the designers he works with, Pam Sheridan of Waterleaf Design and Jim Walters of Creative Home Design. Eveleigh also works closely with his suppliers, to assure that the clients stay within their budget. “When the design is finished our clients pretty well know how much their home is going to cost. No surprises,” he says. If there were surprises on this building project, they were happy ones. Eveleigh succeeded in making the entire building process seamless. “He was easy-going and transparent,” Ashleigh says. “We felt like he genuinely cared about the house and he worked with us to make sure we were happy.” The Purcells wanted the home’s exterior to have modern accents with transitional roots—and a bold, dark color palette. The end product is indeed striking. Board and batten siding, painted in black-toned Sherwin Williams Iron Ore, and black window frames contrast with the icy gray Eldorado dry-stacked stone, while gable trusses and cedar accents lend a Craftsman feel. A VistaLuxe Kolbe & Kolbe glass entry door and its twin door on the far side of the great room open up the gorgeous view of Lake Michigan on the horizon. Inside the home, a soft-toned white oak floor mirrors a ceiling clad in the same wood with matching white oak beams. The fireplace mantel is clad in the same Eldorado stone as the exterior—except in a thinner version. The open kitchen is outfitted with dove gray custom cabinets and a generous island by Wolverine Cabinet Company. A sparkling white herringbone-patterned tile backsplash, a white custom hood, Cambria quartz countertops and Wolf/Subzero appliances round out this space that is both functional and beautiful. The team at Northwest Carpentry designed and built a fabulous adjoining pantry—a skill they also lent to the master bedroom closet. A light-filled sunroom, an equally light-filled master suite and a perfectly appointed mudroom (floor-to-ceiling cabinetry by Wolverine Cabinet Co.!) round out the main floor. A lovely staircase with a custom black-steel railing and white oak treads leads to the upper floor and two children’s bedrooms. The rooms, which feel as sweet and cozy as an old farmhouse, top off this enchanted place, where the couple will raise their first child, due in January.

NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021

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TRILLIUM Custom Homes www.trilliumshore.com Photo by Greg MacMaster, Eagle Eye Video Productions

Read our story on page 34!

Photo by Maconochie Photography

The ultimate goal of the Architect is to create a paradise... every house should be a fruit of our endeavor to create an earthly paradise for people.

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Professional Installation.

Elk Rapids Northville 231.498.2500 248.515.4477 josephmoseyarchitecture.com

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ovely Birchwood Drive runs along East Grand Traverse Bay on Old Mission Peninsula. Most of the properties have homes on the shore side as well as across the street. So, when Mike and Kelly Howes came across a home for sale located across from the water that included shoreline, it was a done deal. The setting was perfect. But the home’s interior needed serious updating. The home, built in the 1920s, was originally a farmhouse. Over the decades, the farm disappeared and the home was remodeled until it became a chopped-up warren of rooms whose views of the bay were largely blocked by, among other issues, some seriously strange angled walls. The Howes hired Michele Cerny of Lakeview Interior Design and contractor John Erickson to head up a top-to-bottom reno.  One key decision from the outset was to work with Debbie Everson, salesperson of Floor Covering Brokers, to suggest lake-house appropriate flooring. In the main living area, the team chose COREtec luxury vinyl planking in an oak-toned color. “We selected this product for its color, durability, ease of cleaning and its relaxed beach look,” Everson says. The family room is carpeted in Beach Haven Tuftex nylon that is easily cleaned and has great retention. Everson also suggested a wool (stands up to foot traffic!) runner for the steps in water-andsand-colored stripes. The perfect flooring proved a firm base on which to build out the rest of the renovation design. The kitchen was just short of a miraculous transformation. Among the changes were a new 10-foot-long island with a silvery blue base and quartz top, white cabinetry and glossy white subway tiles from Floor Covering Brokers. As is the case with the cabinetry and island, Peter Jenks of Inception Woodworks made a fabulous oak-topped banquette that seats 14 for the casual eating nook. A window cut out of the wall separating the nook from the dining room allows light to pour in and provides a view of East Bay. In the dining area, a closet was removed, among other things, to make room for a 72-inch round dining table surrounded by white shiplap and centered under a gorgeous chandelier. In an equally clever move, Cerny and the homeowner turned a former office space tucked oddly in the center of the main floor into a beach dropoff area. A wall or two had to be taken down and the bottom landing of the stairway was adjusted, but when it was finished, the space, shiplapped from top to bottom and outfitted with hooks, cabinets and a bench, makes the perfect place to stash beach towels and toys. For an upstairs room, Cerny designed a custom loft bunk (built by Inception Woodworks) with steps that double as storage. New furnishings, lighting and wallpaper throughout the home are courtesy of the 200-plus home-furnishing companies that Cerny works with. This old home saw many changes, but the Howes decided to keep the original fireplaces—stone in the living room and fieldstone in the family room. In addition, Cerny peeled back carpet in an original upstairs room that is tucked under the eaves, farmhouse style, and discovered the original fir floor. She had it painted pale blue but otherwise left it as a tribute to the home’s heritage. Some things are just too good to lose.

Hello Beautiful on East Bay When new owners purchased a once-upona-time farmhouse on East Bay, walls came down and light poured in.

TEXT BY

ELIZABETH EDWARDS

RESOURCES FLOORING:

FLOOR COVERING BROKERS FLOORCOVERINGBROKERS.COM FIND MORE RESOURCES LINK.MYNORTH.COM/HOME5

NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021

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he darling town of Elk Rapids is surrounded by water and fruit farms, while its neighborhoods are dotted with gracious historic homes. This home set on the west arm of Elk Lake, just outside of downtown, captures the essence of those features perfectly. The builder, Jamie Wilkins of Trillium Shore Custom Homes, likes to say that he sweats the details so that homeowners don’t have to, and indeed, he perfectly orchestrated this detail-oriented home. Designed by Shoreline Architecture’s Steve Werner in close collaboration with the homeowner, the black, white and gray exterior borrows elements from the Queen Anne era. A covered, wrap-around porch, peaked gables clad in board-and-batten and classic four-paned windows (on the road side) echo the local farmhouse vernacular. The interior, however, is all about lake living. A muted palette of warm gray walls, white oak floor, creamy-white trim-work and paneling with accents of deep marine blue sets a serene backdrop for the equally serene panorama of the picturesque lake visible from the generous windows and a set of French doors. The open kitchen is as functional as it is lovely. A kicked-up pantry is outfitted with two counters big enough to use for prep and open shelving for storing serving dishes. A coffee bar tucked into the cabinetry in the main kitchen and a bar just off the kitchen, signal that this room is made for enjoying. Lux touches include the paneled refrigerator and freezer, brass hardware and faucets and the leathered blue-gray Azul Aran granite island top. But the real show-stopper here is the custom range hood, fabricated in steel and trimmed in brass fabricated locally by Darin Fetter of North Shore Iron Works. The adjacent living area is defined by a coffered ceiling and three square columns that mark the area’s separation from the foyer on one side and the kitchen/dining area on the other. A fireplace set into a wall of shiplap, custom shelving made by the Trillium Shore team and a collection of tasteful paintings round out this relaxing space. In the master suite, one set of French doors opens to the covered porch, while another set opens to a light-filled music room. The bathroom, with its Jack-and-Jill sinks, soaking tub and custom shower, opens into a to-die-for walk-in closet. The white oak stair banisters, made by Jamie Wilkins, curve slightly outward at the ends as if welcoming people upstairs. The staircase wall is paneled with painted white rectangle panels—a touch that adds dimension and interest to the stairwell. Upstairs there are four bedrooms, one of which is en suite and another two connected by Jack-and-Jill bathrooms, with views of either the lake or trees. Finally, as if to add an exclamation point to this artful home, one of the bedrooms is paneled in an intriguing and eclectic geometric pattern—expertly executed by the skilled Trillium Shore craftsmen.

Timeless Sophistication on Elk Lake With its Seaside Coastal inspired accents this stunning home is one for the ages.

TEXT BY

ELIZA BETH EDWARDS

RESOURCES BUILDER:

TRILLIUM SHORE TRILLIUMSHORE.COM FIND MORE RESOURCES LINK.MYNORTH.COM/HOME6

NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021

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hese homeowners were spending happy summers in the cottage they’d built on Lake Charlevoix in 1997, but even so, they couldn’t help noticing a couple of vacant lakeside lots they passed when out boating. The lots presented more view opportunities than their cottage offered from its location set back in the trees with only a tunnel view of the lake. When they noticed a “For Sale” sign on one of the lots a few years ago, “Boom! We grabbed it,” says the homeowner. This would be the fifth home that the couple had built together, so they pretty much knew what they wanted. They envisioned a casual farmhouse that felt compatible with the local vernacular. Considering that the famous writer Ernest Hemingway summered on Lake Charlevoix as a teenager, in a bunkhouse behind a white clapboard farmhouse up the street from the lake—white farmhouses fit well here. Ardent supporters of keeping Lake Charlevoix clean, the couple also knew their home would include a greenbelt of natural vegetation along the water’s edge to filter any runoff pollutants. They contacted designer Jill Rowley of Designworks after hearing from friends about the great experience they’d had working with her—and their new farmhouse entered the conception phase. The couple brought a wish list to her that included a wide-open view of the lake, a craft room, a brick wall that looked old to place their piano in front of, a three-season porch, space to hang their fabulous collection of local art, a spare room outfitted with beds for friends and family … and above all, says the homeowner, they wanted a relaxed home where it was okay for people to come in from the beach with bare feet. Friends also told the couple about the incredible experience they’d had working with Eric Render of Render Construction. Render and his team delivered once again. “It was definitely a positive experience— the best we’ve had in all the homes we’ve built,” the homeowner says. Needless to say, everything (and more) that the couple had on their wish list was orchestrated by Rowley and Render in perfect harmony. Nowadays, the husband rises early, makes coffee for his wife and himself, then heads out onto the three-season porch to watch a resident eagle glide over the lake and to witness the splashes of jumping fish. “It’s super quiet in the morning,” he says. “Just spectacular.”

Farmhouse Beauty A stunning lot on Lake Charlevoix + one of the most skilled builders in the North + one of the North’s most storied designers + dream clients with fabulous taste = an exquisite rendition of the new American farmhouse.

TEXT BY

ELIZA BETH EDWARDS

RESOURCES BUILDER:

RENDER CONSTRUCTION RENDERCONSTRUCTION.COM FIND MORE RESOURCES LINK.MYNORTH.COM/HOME7

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Contemporary Craftsman Masterpiece One of Northern Michigan’s most recognized building teams executes a lakeside home for the ages.

TEXT BY

ELIZABETH EDWARDS

RESOURCES BUILDER:

MILLER, POINEAU AND NAUMES (mPn) MPNBUILD.COM FIND MORE RESOURCES LINK.MYNORTH.COM/HOME8

his Lake Charlevoix stunner, marked by rich layers of woodworking detail, exemplifies the quality, skill and creativity of the building company Miller, Poineau and Naumes (mPn). Moreover, the home is one of the last designed by recently retired master designer/builder Andre Poineau, who has made a name for himself for his timeless residential designs. With its white board-and-batten exterior, covered porch and gable windows, the home is purposely reminiscent of a Michigan farmhouse. Yet, square columns and truss-work give the home a definite modern Craftsman accent. Poineau’s eye for detail—and the execution of it by the skilled mPn team—is evident in double strips of batten in the siding and neoclassical caps on square columns. The emphasis on the exterior design includes 2,399 square feet of covered patios and balconies—all laid with Mesabi Black granite that is flush with the interior flooring. Needless to say, this home was made as much for outdoor living as indoor. The exterior is a prelude for what follows on the interior. A soft-toned rift-and-quartered white oak floor sets the stage for the spectacular ceiling, where the exterior truss detail is carried inside and every column and beam is boxed in five or six layers of trim. Intermittent rafters, set three feet apart, frame strips of nickel-gap poplar. The entire ceiling is painted in Benjamin Moore White Dove. When the LED uplift lighting set into the beams is on, it’s not overstating to call the ceiling heavenly. Beyond the ceiling, the stamp of fine woodwork from the mPn team is everywhere in this home, including a handcrafted and trowel-plastered range hood, a cypress built-in-bar and maple cabinetry throughout. Other elements, including a Mesabi Black granite-clad wood-burning fireplace in the great room, a gas fireplace in the master suite, a steam shower and a butler’s kitchen off the main kitchen area for entertaining, round out this lakeside dream home.

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T he Cu l i nary North local cuisine . drinks . restaurant guide

D I N I N G OUT

NEW CIDERS, OLD APPLES by LAUREN MCCAIN

Two K Farms in Suttons Bay is doing cider differently—and we’re impressed.

photo by Allison Jarrell

rothers george and max koskela started heritage apples, had not only survived but also produced out with an ambitious goal: Intrigued by the unique fruit perfect for making single-varietal ciders. old-world ciders of Britain, the Koskelas So, what is a single-varietal? Riesling, pinot grigio, cabwanted to bring heritage apple varieties that ernet … sound familiar? had never been grown in the Midwest to “[Single-varietals] are very common in the wine world,” Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula and use them to make Max says. “You know what’s in it because it's on the bottle, single-varietal ciders. but with cider, most times you don’t really ^ To say they succeeded would be an know what’s going in there.” Often what’s 3 Ciders to Sip understatement. Today, with more than “going in” a typical Midwestern cider is a 20,000 trees, including heritage varieties, blend of juices from culinary apples like 2019 Spitzenburg: A burst Two K Farms is responsible for one of the a Gala or Honeycrisp, Max explains. “We of passionfruit, green apple largest, high-density growing orchards in said, why can’t we highlight the fruit and and lemon grass the Midwest. its varieties so you can see the nuances that 2019 Kingston Black: The brothers planted their first block cider can have.” Rich notes of baked apple of experimental trees in 2012. Among Take the Esopus Spitzenburg for examand caramel them was the Kingston Black; a darling ple. This apple variety (a favorite of Thomas of the apple world known for producing Jefferson) has notes of passionfruit similar 2019 Macoun: Tropical, honey and spice undertones the “perfect cider” due to its balance of to sauvignon blanc (Yes, really!). The “Spitz,” sweetness, acidity and tannins. “It’s the as the brothers endearingly call it, was a noChampagne of cider,” Max says. brainer to add to their series of single-varietal ciders. But, the brothers were taking a risk—they had been “We haven’t really seen many people doing single-vawarned that Kingston Blacks likely wouldn’t survive the rietals on this scale here,” George says. “I’d like to think peninsula’s harsh winters (originally grown in England, we’re pioneers in the cider world, introducing different they’re accustomed to milder weather). The brothers kinds to the Midwest.” were hopeful, though, that their naysayers would end up 3872 SW Bay Shore Dr., Suttons Bay, twokfarms.com sounding like those who said grapes couldn’t be grown in Northern Michigan’s microclimate 40 years ago. Lauren McCain was a MyNorth editorial intern this summer They trusted their gut, and within a few years, their and is a journalism student at Ohio University. orchard, including the Kingston Blacks and other NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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T he Cu l i nary North Grab & Go

GRAB:

Turkey’s & Tom’s We're keeping it classic this month. Turkey's, founded in 1975, and Tom’s Mom’s Cookies, opened in 1985, are downtown institutions, both charmingly painted pink and popular for generations. At Turkey’s (250 E. Main St.), the breads and turkeys are baked daily, so you can’t go wrong with the Turkey Club sandwich—grilled whole wheat with turkey breast, local Plath's bacon, lettuce, tomato and mayo. Served with chips and a pickle for $14. Around the corner at Tom’s Mom’s (267 S. Spring St.), you’re going to have trouble choosing just one cookie—chocolate caramel pecan, oatmeal butterscotch, old fashioned molasses … better bring a friend so you can share. turkeyspizzeria.com tomsmomscookies.com

A FALL HIKE IN HARBOR SPRINGS by CARLY SIMPSON

A ready-made meal and the best place to take it.

GO:

Thorne Swift Nature Preserve

JUST A BITE Apple Dumplings when fall rolls around, adreon kiplinger has just one wish:

Please, oh, please don’t let the apple dumplings sell out. Adreon owns Crescent Bakery in Frankfort with his wife, Heather, and their apple dumplings are his favorite thing about the season. “My face lights up when I make them,” he says. The apples are cored and laid on top of a bed of crumbled spice cake donuts. The middle of the apple is then filled with dried cranberries from Graceland Fruit, also of Frankfort. Topped with a sticky bun smear, the whole apple is closed up in puff pastry dough, egg washed, sprinkled with crystallized sugar and then baked to perfection. A limited number are made in October and November, and if Adreon gets just one, he’ll be a happy man. 404 Main St., Frankfort, crescentbakery.com –C.S.

trail that wind through what feels like a tunnel of trees, cattails and ferns. Markers along the way identify plants, like the rare Showy Lady’s Slipper (the tallest native northern orchid, it can live up to 50 years). You’ll have lots of picnic spot options: a bench by the pond or at the dune observation platform, a blanket spread out on the sandy beach or the pavilion next to the Nature Center. The preserve is open daily from 10 a.m. to sunset, typically from April 15 to November 15. The parking fee is waived this year. landtrust.org Bonus: Extend your adventure with a drive through the actual Tunnel of Trees on M-119. The 20-mile route (one way) follows a spectacular bluff along Lake Michigan, passing through Good Hart and Cross Village. Weekends are busy on the narrow, curvy road, but the views during peak fall color are a treat. link.mynorth.com/TunnelTreesGuide

photo by Mary LaVictor

Goodies in hand, hop in your car and drive about four miles along M-119 to Thorne Swift Nature Preserve, just eight minutes northwest of town. This 30-acre property has 950 feet of Lake Michigan shoreline (300 feet are a public beach) and 1.5 miles of

T R AV E R S E / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 1

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The Culinary North

GUIDE

Pour Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. 422 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9800 LD

Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cui-

• BAR • $$-$$$

sine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.0049 LD • BAR • $$

Roast & Toast Daily house-made soups, bread, bakery items

Stiggs Brewery Hand-crafted brews, from-scratch food like

Sam’s Graces Café & Bakery Artisanal bakery and brick oven pizzeria. 324 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.489.8278 BL • $

Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cui-

R E S T A U R A N T

and salads. On-site coffee roasting. A consistent MyNorth Red Hot Best winner. 309 E. LAKE ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.7767 BLD • $

Side Door Saloon Excellent sandwiches, quesadillas, steak,

whitefish and pastas. 1200 N. US-31, PETOSKEY, 231.347.9291 LD • BAR • $

whitefish cakes, bourbon chicken sandwich, top sirloin wagyu steak. 112 S. PARK ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6100 LD • BAR $-$$

sine at Shanty Creek Resort. Breakfast, lunch & dinner; The River Bistro—Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, lunch, (spring-fall); Ivan’s Mountainside Grill—Schuss Village-Pub food. 1 SHANTY CREEK RD. (M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111 BLD •

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with a big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231.347.2771 BLD • $$-$$$

BAR • $$ •

Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with a wraparound

ST., BELLAIRE, 231.498.2300 LD • BAR • $-$$

front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. 100 LEWIS ST.,

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine

from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. 121 N. BRIDGE

Terrain Restaurant Honest yet ambitious contemporary

PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS

PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000 LD • BAR • $$–$$$

ALANSON/BAY HARBOR/INDIAN RIVER

food. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6201

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly

Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito

WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE, 231.535.2999 D • BAR • $$-$$$ •

Dutch Oven Bakery French toast, farmer’s omelette stratas and

sandwiches on famous homemade bread. 7611 US-31, ALANSON,

231.548.2231 BL • $

Knot Just a Bar Contemporary sports and oyster bar perched on

the Bay Harbor marina. 820 FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.2770

LD • BAR $$-$$$ •

Vintage Chophouse/Wine Bar All-American steakhouse

flavored with retro sophistication. INN AT BAY HARBOR AUTOGRAPH

COLLECTION, 3600 VILLAGE, HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051 LD • BAR • $-$$$

Vivio’s Northwood Inn Locals love this cozy, rustic, wildlife-

decorated log cabin with Italian cuisine and specialty pizzas.

4531 S. STRAITS HWY., INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.9471 LD • BAR • $-$$

HARBOR SPRINGS/PETOSKEY Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary

surprises including pho. 215 E. LAKE ST. PETOSKEY, 231.753.2221 LD • BAR • $$

Boyne Highlands Main Dining Room—Casual American with Scottish influences. Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients. Seminole Pub. 600 HIGHLANDS DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.3000

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room—fresh sea-

pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. 422 E. MITCHELL ST.,

PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572 LD • BAR • $-$$

Teddy Griffin’s Roadhouse Casual spot to grab ribs,

steak or fresh fish after golf or skiing and catch the game on TV. 50 HIGHLAND PIKE RD., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.7805 D • BAR • $$

Terrace Inn Planked whitefish and housemade desserts in a Victorian setting. 1549 GLENDALE AVE., PETOSKEY, 231.347.2410 D • BAR • $$

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and salads. 433 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900 LD • $-$$

Villa Ristorante Authentic handmade pasta, osso buco and

hand-rolled cannoli star. 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440 D • BAR • $$-$$$

Willow Inspired farm-to-table modern American cuisine with global wine and craft cocktail bar. 129 EAST BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.412.6032 D • BAR • $$-$$$

CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES

Chandler’s Dining inside or on the patio offers two ways to

BELLAIRE/BOYNE COUNTRY/WALLOON

City Park Grill Hemingway drank at the massive mahogany

Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. Over 20 craft beers on tap and signature cocktails. 4069 M-75, WALLOON LAKE,

bar in this casual spot. Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish, and live entertainment. 432 E.

LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101 LD • BAR • $$

Jose’s Authentic taqueria with made-to-order Mex. 309 PETOSKEY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3299 LD • $

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and

homemade pastries like lemon raspberry bars, banana caramel flan. 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250 BL • $

ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7301 D • BAR • $$

renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. 4178 WEST ST.,

CHARLEVOIX Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beer-friendly

small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. 202 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466

LD • BAR • $-$$ •

The Cantina Tacos and tequila with indoor and outdoor seating. Live entertainment. 101 VAN PELT PLACE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3612 LD • BAR • $-$$

Charlevoix Pizza Company Scratch-made dough, fresh in-

gredients, golden crust, prepared daily. Plus, cheesy bread and wings. 311 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6300 LD • $-$$

East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails. 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450 LD • BAR • $$–$$$

Esperance Gourmets will adore dishes prepared with dazzling

technique in this specialty food and wine shop. 12853 US-31 N., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.9300 D • $-$$$

BLD • BAR • $–$$

savor this eatery’s upscale menu. 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BEHIND SYMONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

American food with a focus on local ingredients. 213 N. BRIDGE

231.535.6000 LD • BAR • $-$$$

Boyne City Taproom Craft beer, wood-fired pizzas, wraps, burg-

ers. 220 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.459.4487 LD • BAR • $-$$

Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge—

Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern— American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh pea-

1 BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS 855.688.7024

ELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801 LD • BAR • $-$$

That French Place Authentic French crêperie and ice cream

shop. 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 BLD • $

Grey Gables Restaurant Graceful, intimate, Victorian atmosphere across from the harbor. 308 BELVEDERE AVE., CHARLEVOIX,

231.547.9261 D • BAR • $$-$$$

Pigs Eatin’ Ribs Real smokehouse with mouthwatering BBQ.

Weekend breakfast. 1418 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7447

BLD • $-$$

Scovie’s Gourmet Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and

baked goods star here. Dinner is bistro-style comfort food. 111

BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.7827 LD • $-$$

Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure. 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311 LD • BAR • $$ •

nuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. 426 E. MITCH-

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800 BLD • BAR • $-$$ •

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. 101 ANTRIM

The New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. 101 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904 D •

Corner Bistro French-inspired small plates, classic cocktails, wine, beer, Sunday brunch. 102 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE,

Villager Pub A Charlevoix hangout for nearly four decades,

Odawa Casino Resort Sage—Sumptuous fine dining with curried grilled lamb loin, salmon saltimbocca, seared scallops and an extensive wine list. 1760 LEARS RD., PETOSKEY,

Lake Street Pub American pub with outdoor patio and firepit,

BAR • $$-$$$

877.442.6464 D • BAR • $$-$$$

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale

dining, outdoor seating and an evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour. 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321 LD • BAR • $$-$$$ •

231.409.7088 LD • BAR • $-$$

ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799 D • BAR • $$

with two distinct sections. Known for Great Lakes whitefish, Mexican, ribs and pizza. 427 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.6925

Bier mac ‘n’ cheese, cocktails, 26 beers on tap. 202 S. LAKE ST.,

LD • BAR • $-$$

Provisions Wine Lounge Sommelier curated wines by the

ELK RAPIDS/GAYLORD/GRAYLING

BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6031 LD • $

glass and bottle, classic cocktails, Michigan craft beer and small plates. 123 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.2151 LD • BAR • $$

American House Wood Fired Pizza Full menu and traditional Neapolitan-style pizzas made with San Marzano tomatoes and fresh ingredients. 151 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.6062 LD • BAR • $$

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The Culinary North Bennethum’s Northern Inn Fresh eclectic cuisine and updated regional favorites in a cozy Northwoods setting. Creative kids menu, Sun. brunch. 3917 SOUTH OLD 27, GAYLORD,

Hearth & Vine Café at Black Star Farms Farm-to-table menu that pairs with Black Star Farm’s wine, cider and craft cocktails. 10844 E. REVOLD RD., SUTTONS BAY, 231.944.1297 LD •

Oaky’s Tavern Burgers, pizza, pasta, sandwiches. Friday night

989.732.9288 LD • BAR • $-$$$

BAR • $-$$

OLD MISSION PENINSULA

Cellar 152 Gourmet meals to take out or eat in, at a wine bar on the Elk River. 152 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9000 BLD

The Homestead Whiskers Bar & Grill—pizza, wood-grilled

Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted on site. 13512 PENINSULA DR.,

Chef Charles’ Culinary Institute of America-trained Chef Charles Egeler makes gourmet pizzas, Ligurian-style takeout pesto, salads and sandwiches in a classic pizzeria. 147 RIVER ST.,

Hop Lot Brewing Co. Family-friendly microbrewery with

four-season patio and games serving ribs, tacos, wings and a s’more kit to top it all off. 658 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., SUTTONS

Harbor Cafe Traditional breakfasts and lunches with some

Joe’s Friendly Tavern A rustic, comfy spot with bar food:

• BAR • $-$$

ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8901 LD • $

ribs, burgers and more. Dine inside and out. D • BAR • $-$$

1 WOODRIDGE RD. (OFF M-22), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.5000

BAY, 231.866.4445 LD • BAR • $-$$

fun specialities like cinnamon swirl pancakes and a Reuben omelette. 129 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8700 BL • $

whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. 11015 FRONT ST.,

The Local All-American breakfast and lunch done better. 145

Knot Just a Bar Fish and burgers in a modern, beachy pub

AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.498.2190 BL • $$

Otsego Resort American and international menu, nice wine list in a log lodge overlooking the Sturgeon River Valley. The Duck Blind Grille—Casual evening dining. 696 M-32, GAYLORD,

EMPIRE, 231.326.5506 BLD • BAR • $$

artisan tacos, pizzas and brews. 227 E. MICHIGAN AVE., GRAYLING,

coffees, breakfast sandwiches, sourdough pancakes, cinnamon rolls and more. 101 S. MAIN ST., LELAND, 231.994.2202 BLD • $

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively zydeco, jazz and blues. 617 AMES

BOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422 BLD • BAR • $

BAR • $$ •

Old Mission Tavern Prime rib, fresh fish, pastas and ethnic specials—this lushly landscaped spot hosts two fine-art galleries: Bella Galleria and sculptor/owner Verna Bartnick’s studio. 17015 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.7280 LD • BAR • $$

patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch. 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888 LD • BAR • $$-$$$ •

paradise. C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3944 D • BAR •

Paddle Hard Brewing A fun-loving community hangout with

the Au Sable River. 204 INGHAM ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.1515 LD •

VERSE CITY, 231.223.4222 D • BAR • $-$$ •

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal $$-$$$

Ray's BBQ, Brews & Blues A BBQ joint on the banks of

Mission Table Farm-to-table restaurant serving seasonal, locally sourced fare and craft cocktails. 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRA-

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY

NEW Leelanau Coffee Roasting Breakfast Bistro Arabica

ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530 LD • BAR • $-$$

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333 LD • BAR • $$

perched over pretty Omena Bay. 5019 BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393 LD • BAR • $-$$ •

989.732.5181 D • BAR • $$

989.745.6388 LD • BAR • $$

specials. 9205 US-31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.6244 LD • BAR • $-$$

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. 497 E. HAR-

Amical Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace and street

NEW Artisan Waterfront Restaurant & Tavern Casual

fine dining experience with Great Lakes-inspired cuisine inside the DELAMAR Traverse City resort. 615 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.947.3700 LD • BAR • $$

NEW Bahia Spanish-Latin fusion restaurant focused on tapas and shared small plates. 127 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on regional cuisine made from scratch. 413 N. JOSEPH

231.421.3669 D • BAR • $$

NEW Nittolo's Restaurants Two restaurants under one roof.

AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1000 BL • $-$$

ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344 BLD • BAR • $-$$$

Benedict A family-friendly restaurant offering breakfast and lunch sandwiches, pastries, salads, soups and more. 237 LAKE

Nittolo's Pizza: Unique brick-oven pizzas. Seafood & Social: Ora king salmon, Alaska halibut, Chilean sea bass and more. 104

1933. 301 N. JAMES ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.7113 LD • BAR • $

MAIN ST., LAKE LEELANAU, 231.994.2400 LD • $$-$$$

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with fromscratch food. 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.9515 LD •

Sugar Bowl Restaurant This vintage 1919 eatery serves

North Country Grill & Pub The Boone family keeps the clas-

Brasserie Amie A Parisian-style brasserie bistro in downtown

GAYLORD, 989.732.5524 BLD • BAR • $$-$$$

420 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000 LD • BAR • $$

231.753.3161 LD • BAR • $$

New Bohemian Cafe A neighborhood coffee shop and deli, also home to Baia Estate Winery tasting room. 110 S. WAUKAZOO

Bubba’s Happening Front Street spot with battered mahi and chips, burgers, chimis, salads and tacos. 428 E. FRONT ST., TRA-

45th Parallel Cafe Artsy spot with creative breakfast and

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads

The Cooks’ House A sweet little dollhouse of a spot, home

Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza.

231.228.6692 BL • $

Spike’s Keg O’ Nails An Up North classic for burgers since

whitefish, prime rib and Greek specialties. 216 W. MAIN ST.,

LEELANAU COUNTY lunch. 102 S. BROADWAY, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2233 BL • $-$$

Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole. 6487 W. WEST-

ERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754 BLD • BAR • $-$$

The Bluebird Cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta,

creative global feasts during the off-season. Sun. brunch. 102 E.

sics while flirting with fondue, fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans.

ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1034 BL • $-$$

BAR • $-$$

TC serving up brunch and dinner. 160 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

VERSE CITY, 231.995.0570 BLD • BAR • $

and breakfast—all done well. 8654 S. MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY,

to sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. 115 WEL-

Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas,

Cousin Jenny’s Cornish Pasties Homemade pasties. 129 S.

great beer list and more. 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

The Tribune Ice Cream and Eatery House-cured lox, break-

LINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700 LD • $$-$$$

UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7821 BLD • $

The Dish Cafe Eclectic menu with creative salads, quesadil-

las, enormous wraps, sandwiches and smoothies. 108 S. UNION,

RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9081 LD • BAR • $$ •

fast burritos, meatloaf sammies and burgers. 110 E. NAGONABA

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.2233 LD • BAR • $

Boone Docks Log lodge with roomy deck, shrimp, burgers, steaks. 5858 MANITOU BLVD., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444 LD • BAR

Western Avenue Grill Pasta, seafood, whitefish and burg-

Firefly A dazzling small-plate menu, sushi, steaks and burgs at a sophisticated hotspot on the river. 310 S. CASS ST., TRAVERSE

• $$

ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1055 BLD • $

ers. 6680 WESTERN AVE. (M-109), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3362 LD •

Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers in a

BAR • $$

CITY, 231.932.1310 LD • $-$$ •

The Flying Noodle House-made fresh pastas and sauces, sandwiches and salads, and a signature brick chicken dish. 136

cozy cabin with a fireplace and a lively, friendly wait staff. 102

Wren Contemporary comfort food and a constantly changing

Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse Great burgers, hand-cut

ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.1175 D • BAR • $$

The Good Bowl Fast casual Vietnamese. 328 E. FRONT

GRAND TRAVERSE AREA

The Green House Café Sandwiches, soups and salads. 115 E.

JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688 LD • BAR • $$

menu to feature locally sourced ingredients. 303 N. ST. JOSEPH

fries, Sicilian-style pizza. Curling rink. 172 W. BURDICKVILLE RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.8869 LD • BAR • $

Dick’s Pour House Homemade soups and pies, sandwiches,

pizza. 103 W. PHILIP ST., LAKE LEELANAU, 231.256.9912 LD • BAR

• $-$$

ST.,TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.2662 LD • BAR $-$$

INTERLOCHEN Bradley’s Pub & Grille Burgers, ribs, bluegill, brisket, trout

Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern Rustic family-style roadhouse

and so much more. 10586 US-31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.275.6401 LD

known for burgers, soups and raspberry pie in season. 7144 N.

• BAR • $-$$

M-22, BETWEEN NORTHPORT AND LELAND, 231.386.9923 LD • BAR • $

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such

Dilbert’s Soups, sandwiches, omelettes and other home cooking served in a homey atmosphere. 11303 US-31, INTERLOCHEN,

as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. 4566 MCFARLANE, MAPLE CITY/ BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900 D • BAR • $$ Garage Bar & Grill BBQ & bar eats are served at this pareddown watering hole with garage doors & a dog-friendly patio. 108 S WAUKAZOO ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.5511 LD • BAR • $-$$

E. FRONT ST., 231.252.4725 LD • BAR • $$

231.275.3005 BLD • $

Hofbrau Lively cedar-paneled former general store serves lo-

cals and Interlochen performers. Steak, seafood, bluegill and barbecue. Sun. brunch. 2784 M-137, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.6979 LD • BAR • $-$$

FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.7687 BL • $

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, coffee, baked goods, pot pies, chicken salad and quiche. 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437 BL • $

NEW Hexenbelle Serving items like housemade hummus and

flatbread, coconut curry fried rice, chocolate olive oil cake and locally roasted BLK MRKT Coffee. 144 HALL ST., SUITE 107, TRA-

VERSE CITY, 231.486.6128 BL • $

Mackinaw Brewing Co. Nautical-themed brewpub offers

great house-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty char-burgers, fish and ribs. 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.1100 LD • BAR • $$

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T he Cu l i nary North On the Table

DINING IN

A STORYTELLER’S SUPPER by STACEY BRUGEMAN

An indigenous-inspired one pot supper that will warm your soul this season.

Bison and Wild Rice Stuffed Squash Serves 6 1 cup water 3 acorn squash, halved and seeds removed 3 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided 1 small yellow onion, diced 1 pound ground bison 2 cups cooked wild rice (about ¾ cup raw) 1 cup dried cherries salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 12 sage leaves, julienned

2. Place squash, cut side up, on a baking sheet and drizzle 2 Tablespoons of the olive oil across the squash, spreading it around each cavity with your fingers. Season with salt and pepper and roast until the squash is fork tender but still holds its shape, about 50 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, make the filling. Drizzle the remaining 1 Tablespoon of olive oil into a skillet set over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about 3 minutes. Fold in the ground bison and move around in the pan from time to time, cooking until it is no longer pink but still tender, about 7 minutes. Stir in the cooked wild rice and dried cherries until heated through, about 2 minutes more. Add salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. 4. When the squash is fork tender with a few brown blisters and any moisture that has pooled in the cavity is bubbling, remove it from the oven and fill with a heaping mound of the hot bison mixture. Top each stuffed squash with julienned sage and serve. –S.B.

photo by Dave Weidner / styling by Sarah Peschel

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

hen my husband and i decided to leave Colorado and move back to Michigan, each of our kids picked one destination in their birth state that they wanted to see before we departed. One of them selected Mesa Verde, the ancient cliff dwellings of the Ancestral Puebloan people. This dovetailed nicely when, a few weeks later, we drove our U-Haul northeast and stopped at Crazy Horse, the mountain monument in South Dakota that depicts the Oglala Lakota warrior. When we crossed into the Upper Peninsula’s western edge, bookended by Lake Michigan to our south and Lake Superior to our north, we talked about the Ojibwe names for both bodies of water—michi gami and gichi gami, respectively. As we settled into our new Northern Michigan community that fall, our kids had a better understanding of the American Indians who predated us in our old home, in our new home, and even the journey in between. In the weeks that followed, I was eager to learn more about the food traditions of Indigenous Americans and had several Native-authored cookbooks sent to my rural library. A friend introduced me to Michelle Leask, an Ojibwe citizen and co-proprietor of Maple City’s Little Traverse Inn (littletraverseinn.com), who was so gracious about sharing her family’s Winter Solstice traditions, and even gave me ceremonial tobacco, which the kids offered to Mother Earth. As the days grew shorter that first fall, I started cooking. Inspired by the importance of bison, wild rice and squash in American Indian cookery, I created this recipe. At the time, I served it as a side dish, but it really shines as a standalone one-pot supper. Studded with manoomin (wild rice in Ojibwe) and dried cherries, it's a comforting way for those of us who winter on the shores of michi gami to welcome “the season of storytelling,” as the darkest months are known to our Native friends. Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic. Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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The Culinary North Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. 149 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2793 LD • BAR • $$ Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American

menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. 300 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093 BLD • BAR • $$

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, well-aged

Randy’s Diner Soups, salads, sandwiches, all-you-can-eat cod. 1120 CARVER ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0789 BLD • $

Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill Burgers, broasted chicken, pizza, soups, salads. 14848 THOMPSON AVE., THOMPSONVILLE,

Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. 1544 US-31, TRAVERSE CITY,

L'Chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and

Smoke and Porter Public House An American smokehouse

Lucky Dog Bar and Grille Burgers, smoked wings, brats,

231.938.2773 LD • BAR • $-$$

231.378.2554 LD • BAR • $

bagels. 274 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.882.5221 BL • $

125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9832 LD • BAR • $$

where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. Serving microbrews, wine and liquor. 1752 US-31, TRAVERSE CITY,

231.642.5020 LD • BAR • $-$$$

231.383.4499 LD • BAR • $-$$

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sand-

Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood,

The Roadhouse Traditional Mexican cuisine with a cool cantina atmosphere. 1058 MICHIGAN AVE., (US-31), BENZONIA,

charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches. wiches, microbrewed beer and a jam-packed bar scene. 400 W.

prime rib and more. 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG, 231.534.8700 D

FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325 LD • BAR • $$

• BAR • $-$$$

NEW Oakwood Proper Burgers High-quality, locally-sourced, sustainable ingredients, from the MOO-ville ice cream to the burger and the bun. 1108 E. 8TH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.253.1513 LD • $$

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH

Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelettes, homemade breads

cials. 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.3991 D • BAR • $$

and pastries, soup and sandwiches. 124 CASS ST., 231.946.0912, AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0590 BLD • $

Pangea’s Pizza Craft pies, creative toppings and a rooftop deck and bar. 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.9800 LD • BAR $-$$

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7632 LD • BAR • $-$$

NEW Rad.ish Street Food Featuring gourmet plant-based cui-

sines—all farm-to-table, seasonal vegetables and herbs, vegan sushi, housemade tofu and more. 346 E. FRONT ST., SUITE #2, TRA-

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily speCentre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies, soups, salads

and pasta, with daily specials. 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.946.5872 BL • $

The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted wood-fired

sandwiches, craft beer, cocktails. 223 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH,

231.882.9631 LD • BAR • $-$$

Ursa Major Bistro Breakfast, burgers, sandwiches. 245 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4250 BLD • $-$$

CADILLAC Blue Heron Cafe Dazzling upscale sandwiches, soups and

salads as well as from-scratch pastries. 304 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC,

231.775.5461 BL • $

Hermann’s European Cafe Austrian-born master pastry chef

flatbreads and flavorful house brews revitalize the Depot. 642

Hermann Suhs creates international cuisine, seasonal specialties and divine desserts in an Alpenhaus-style dining room. 214 N.

The Kitchen Salads, wraps, tacos. All to go. 1249 WOODMERE

Herraduras Mexican Bar & Grill Authentic dishes like

RAILROAD PL., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168 LD • BAR • $-$$ AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.8646 BL & EARLY D • $

MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9563 LD • BAR • $$

flautas, enchiladas and carnitas, plus shrimp chimis and steaks.

1700 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.4575 LD • BAR • $

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST Apache Trout Grill Rough-hewn eatery affords a great bay

Maggie’s Tavern Chili, burgers, steaks, wet burritos and kid

selections are served up in a lively 19th-century setting. 523 N.

VERSE CITY, 231.943.1145, AND 3593 BUNKER HILL RD., WILLIAMSBURG, 231.421.5077 LD • $

view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad. 13671 S. WEST BAY

MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.1810 LD • BAR • $

Rare Bird Brewery The likes of pork belly sliders, oysters on

Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. 13890 S. WEST BAY SHORE

FRANKFORT/MANISTEE

the half shell and great burgers served up alongside great beer.

229 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2053 LD • BAR • $$

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh, sleek surroundings and high-quality Asian fusion cuisine. 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.944.1733 D • BAR • $-$$$

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips Ultra-fresh Great Lakes fish

fry. 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700 LD • $

Seven Monks Taproom Pair any of 46 beers on tap (includ-

ing European Trappist ales) with your burger, thin crust gourmet pizza, salad or lively sides like sweet potato frites and Scotch egg. 128 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.8410 LD • BAR •

$-$$

Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

D • BAR • $$$

Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inven-

tive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2500 LD • BAR • $-$$

The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients with extensive outdoor seating and a casual atmosphere. 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.0900 BLD • BAR • $-$$$

SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079 LD • BAR • $$ •

DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393 BLD • BAR • $-$$$ •

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 100, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960 LD • BAR • $$ Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare: breakfast

and lunch all day. 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4648 BL • $$

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. 717 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213 LD • BAR • $-$$

Spanglish Authentic, homemade Mexican fare with occasional American accents. 1333 YELLOW DR., TRAVERSE CITY. 231.943.1453 BLD • $

Sugar 2 Salt This brunch spot shakes up the same ol' same ol' with dishes like duck and everything served up with seasonal produce. 1371

GRAY DR., STE. 300, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.492.4616 B • $-$$

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian ac-

cent. 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.8989 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and

more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922 LD • BAR • $$ •

Thirsty Fish Sports Grille Family-friendly sports bar with

seafood, burgers, steaks, pasta and a 600-gallon fish tank. Live music on the patio. 221 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4157

LD • BAR • $-$$

BENZIE, MANISTEE & CADILLAC BENZONIA/BEULAH/THOMPSONVILLE

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST Don’s Drive-In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths,

Crystal Mountain Resort Thistle Pub & Grille—Wood-

paneled eatery, continental and Scottish specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$$ Wild Tomato Restaurant & Bar—Family Favorites.

burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. 2030 US-31 N., TRAVERSE

CITY, 231.938.1860 LD • $

BLD • BAR • $-$$ 12500 CRYSTAL MOUNTAIN DR., THOMPSONVILLE, 231.946.3585 OR 231.378.2000

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor pan-

Five Shores Brewing Craft brewery with appetizers to

orama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends. D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ 100 GRAND TRAVERSE BLVD., ACME, 231.534.6000

58 T R A V E R S E

share and pressed sandwiches. 163 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH,

231.383.4400 LD • BAR • $-$$

Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails. 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0399 BLD • BAR • $-$$

Dinghy’s Local favorite for 27 years. Famous for smoked meats

including ribs, wings and more. Half-pound burger. Sandwiches & salads. Legendary Friday fish fry. 415 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4702 LD • BAR • $$

The Fillmore House-crafted burgers, salads and wood-fired piz-

zas (p.m. only), all rich with Michigan ingredients. 318 RIVER ST,

MANISTEE, 231.887.4121 LD• BAR • $-$$

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails) served in a serene atmosphere on Frankfort’s main drag. 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4114 BLD • $–$$ •

Hotel Frankfort Fine dining served up at this in-town inn. 231

MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8090 BLD • $-$$$

North Channel Brewing Co. Watch the action at the drawbridge in a refined industrial atmosphere with meats smoked daily and excellent craft beers on tap. 86 WASHINGTON ST., MANISTEE, 231.299.1020 LD • BAR $-$$ •

Rock's Landing Eclectic menu combines local ingredients with global influences. Intimate dining, feet from Crystal Lake. 1577 CRYSTAL DR., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0158 D • BAR $$ •

Stormcloud Brewing Brewing B elgian-inspired ales to

pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. 303 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118 LD • BAR • $-$$

Taco 'Bout It Mexican Fusion Tavo and Tarrah Hernandez

turned their food truck into a restaurant dream-come-true with ultra-fresh tacos on hand-pressed corn tortillas, aguas frescas and tamarind mules. 344 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.887.4441 LD

• BAR • $-$$

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS!

MyNorth.com > Food & Drink > Restaurants

/ OCTOBER 2021

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T he Cu l i nary North Last Call SMOKE SHOW by STACEY BRUGEMAN

This mezcal-pear cocktail is a bridge between NoMi’s growing season and the region’s fireside months.

n northern michigan, one telltale sign of the shifting season is when our morning commute is suddenly dotted by ribbons of smoke billowing from nearly every chimney along the route. It’s as if a light switch was flipped overnight and the entire community built their first fall fire on the same evening, the remains of which have been stoked the next morning. At this time of year, smoke not only belongs in our chimney, but also in our glass. In this cocktail, we marry the last breath of fruit season—fresh fall pears—with the autumnal smokiness of mezcal. Made from the agave or maguey plant, mezcal is a complex cousin to tequila. Ask your favorite liquor store for a high-quality brand, add a bottle of pear brandy from Northern Michigan’s own Black Star Farms (blackstarfarms.com), grab a good Michigan-grown Bosc pear and get yourself home to restoke that fire. Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic. Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman. O U R

C E L L A R

Not flexing your mixology muscles tonight? Here’s what area beverage professionals are drinking right now. Industry pros know not to wait for a special occasion to pour bubbles. “It is always the season for sparkling wine,” says Eric Patterson, co-chef and co-owner of Traverse City's Cooks’ House. “A bottle of bubbles makes every gathering better.” One of his faves? The “crisp and refreshing” 2Lads Sparkling Pinot Grigio . Best paired with creamy cheeses, shellfish and cured meats, “it even goes well with buttered popcorn,” Patterson insists. Popcorn and bubbles? That might just be a special occasion after all. 2lwinery.com, $35 per bottle

Newsflash! A fall favorite— Blackrocks Brewery Oktoberfest—is being canned

for the first time this year. We originally fell for a ceramic stein of this seasonal märzen at Marquette’s Steinhaus, where it is unbeatable with the restaurant’s house-made käsewurst. “It’s exactly what an Oktoberfest should be,” Steinhaus Bar Manager Alex McCracken says of the Marquette-made beer. “It’s lively and malty and delicious.” Those who are south of the bridge can also now grab it by the can while seasonal supplies last. –S.B. blackrocksbrewery.com, $11 for 6 cans

Serves 1 ½ of a lemon, seeds removed 1 ½ ounces high-quality mezcal 1 ½ ounces pear juice ¾ ounce Black Star Farms pear brandy 1 slice fresh Bosc pear crushed ice Place half a seeded lemon in the bottom of a cocktail shaker and muddle to release the juice and oils. Add mezcal, pear juice, brandy and ice cubes and cover, shaking until cold. Place a piece of a fresh pear and a straw into a rocks glass, surround both with a heaping mound of crushed ice, strain the mixture in the shaker while pouring it into the glass and serve. –S.B.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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photo by Dave Weidner / styling by Sarah Peschel

F R O M

Bosc Boss

9/2/21 3:56 PM

love of the land

AUTUMN ON ALLIGATOR HILL by ALLISON JARRELL

crisp, colorful fall hike awaits you on Alligator Hill Trail, nestled in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. The trail’s hilly terrain meanders through maplebeech forest, immersing hikers in the season’s gold, amber and rosy foliage. This nine-mile trail system is divided into several loops— easy, intermediate and advanced—which lead to two lookouts: the Islands Lookout at the top of the hill overlooking Lake Michigan, and the Big Glen Lookout that offers glimpses of Glen Lake through the trees. Starting at the Stocking Road trailhead, a 1.5-mile gentle, uphill hike (along part of the easy loop) will take you to the Islands Lookout on top of Alligator Hill. The view from atop the hill is stunning—on a clear day, you can see North and South Manitou Islands, Sleeping Bear Point and maybe even South Fox Island. Freighters are also often seen making their way through the Manitou Passage. We recommend taking a seat on the bench to soak in the scene before traversing the rest of the easy loop (1.3 miles 60

back to the trailhead). Or take a 0.8-mile hike to the Big Glen Lookout, an equally peaceful vista offering more of a wooded view. (You can also access both the intermediate and advanced loops here for a longer trek.) Regardless of which path you choose, you won’t regret spending one of your precious autumn days hiking through tunnels of gold-laden trees and getting a bird’s-eye view of where fall’s warm hues meet the water. A piece of history: The concrete structures at the trailhead on Stocking Road are charcoal kilns built in the 1950s by lumberman Pierce Stocking. The sawmill he set up near this spot produced waste and slab wood that was placed in these kilns and set on fire. The kilns were then closed off to limit the amount of oxygen. After a few days, the wood was converted to charcoal, which was packed in bags and shipped to stores across Michigan for sale to campers and picnickers. Trailhead location: South of the D.H. Day Campground (8010 W. Harbor Hwy., Glen Arbor) off Stocking Road in Empire. For more information, visit nps.gov or friendsofsleepingbear.org.

photo by Allison Jarrell

This Empire trail offers vibrant fall color views worth hiking for.

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Important Family Moments Aren’t Always At A Round Table Family meetings are valuable no matter where they take place. Whether embracing future wishes or educating on strategy, it is important to feel empowered about financial decisions. Success comes from making decisions in a low-stress, collaborative environment. Hold a family meeting before a crisis to avoid making decisions under pressure.

Let Us Help Continue the Conversation

embrace.

educate.

A clear understanding of what is important to you.

A well defined road map To achieve your goals.

empower. Ongoing advice to help you Adjust and move forward. Dawn Hemming, MBA Autumn C. Soltysiak, CFP 600 E. Front Street. Traverse City, MI 49686 231.922.2900 I empower@hemmingwm.com www.hemmingwm.com

hemming& Wealth Management, Inc. (”hemming& Wealth Management”) is a Registered Investment Advisor (”RIA”) with the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (”SEC”).

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9/2/21 2:20 PM

Thriving Business Opportunity An Up North landmark, this already lovingly cared for business, with its extensive customer base, offers a turnkey opportunity in Northern Michigan.

7541 S US 31 Highway in Alanson, Michigan

WALLYKIDD.COM

231-838-2700 325 EAST LAKE STREET, PETOSKEY, MI 49770

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9/3/21 3:07 PM

Traverse Northern Michigan's Magazine, October 2021

Articles inside

TRAVEL

UP IN MICHIGAN

UP NORTH

OCTOBER EVENTS

EDITOR'S NOTE