The WORLD in Your Hands
Travel in Your Time
Wait a while in the Never Never Red dust, ant hills taller than a man, tropical cabbage palm forests, thermal springs and rivers that never dry up. BEVERLEY EVERSON heads into the heart of the Never Never.
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LSEY National Park in the Northern Territory supports all types of native birds and animal life in a vast wilderness and, even more unlikely, has buffalo and camels roaming around as well. It’s also home to Mataranka, which in the local Yangmanic language means “home of the snake”. With a population of around 400, it was first gazetted as a town in 1928 after the arrival of the North Australia Railway. The narrow-gauge line closed in 1976 after being damaged by a cyclone – and by then, a new railway passed about 20km to the west of the town. Mataranka played a role in World War II as the Australian Army set up a hospital nearby, and the 10th Australian Advanced Ordnance workshops camped here in paperbark buildings. There was also an ammunition depot. It is the closest town to Elsey NP and
is located on the sealed Stuart Highway about 101km from Katherine. There are two seasons – dry (May to October) and wet (November to April). May to September is the most comfortable time to visit as temperatures in mid-summer can exceed 50C. We arrived in mid-August and already the days were hot. At 4pm, close to “happy hour”, it was still 39C, although it did cool down later in the evening. In the centre of Mataranka township is a well-maintained, lush green park for travellers to rest. Beware of the sprinklers and park well away from the spray of bore water which leaves a residue on the paint work. You can top up with supplies here if necessary, as there are two petrol stations, grocery store, hotel, dump point behind the park and other amenities including a police station and school. There are two caravan parks on the outskirts of town or stay at Elsey
National Park an easy 17km south-east. The national park, named for the old Elsey Station which was made famous in Mrs Aeneas Gunn’s 1908 book We of the Never Never, offers excellent swimming but only at Bitter Springs and Mataranka Thermal Pools. Swimming and canoeing are no longer permitted in the Roper and Waterhouse rivers, home of saltwater crocodiles. It is permitted to fish from the bank (with care) and by boat (max. 15hp). Barra is the preferred catch. In the bar area of the Mataranka thermal pools complex, a sign showcases the fish of the day catch and records. During our visit the sign advised that Whippy had caught a 120cm barra in March 2020 which was the standing record – what a whopper! Size and possession limits apply. The Department of Primary Industries and Resources website has details. Fishing with nets, traps and spears is also prohibited. Excellent boat ramps are located at 4 Mile and 12 Mile Yards within the NP. The campground – Jalmurark – is excellent, with showers, fireplaces, and picnic tables and barbecues in the day visit areas. Sites are spacious with shade and sun to accommodate all types of camping up to large vans. National Park fees apply and are by self-registration, so there are no concerns about having to pay online, which is just as well as mobile reception is limited. (Reception was excellent a few kilometres up the road.) There are no powered sites and generators are not permitted. The campground is an excellent base for driving to see the sights of Bitter Springs, Elsey Homestead and cemetery, and Mataranka hot springs. All are well sign posted and highlight pastoral and
local history, including the old station sheep dip and Aboriginal Army Camp. A riverside walking trail begins at the thermal pools and continues 16km through the park to Mataranka Falls, or choose different access points to the river and scenic picnic spots from John Hauser Drive, which leads into the NP and campground. Be safe and observe the signs not to swim or paddle, even though the crystal clear water, rock pools and sandy beaches look inviting. The salties are lurking. Hat, sunscreen, enclosed shoes, and water bottles are necessary as parts are sandy and unshaded. Some of the landmarks and picnic spots along this trail are Stevie’s Hole, Botanic Walk, and Korowan (Mataranka Falls). Mataranka Thermal Pools has a privately-owned caravan park and cabins. Entry is free via a path through the resort. Beside the carpark is a replica of Elsey Homestead which was moved here
HERMAN’S TOURS & TRAVEL DAY TRIPS
EXTENDED HOLIDAYS
Saturday 20 February 2021: Barney View / Kooroomba Vineyards.... $120* Saturday 6 March 2021: Stradbroke Island ........................................... $130* Saturday 20 March 2021: North Coast Hinterland ....................................$85 Saturday 8 May 2021: Tamborine Mountain - St Bernard’s & Distillery...$92* Saturday 3 July 2021: Fox & Hounds – Christmas in July........................$90* Departures from – Brisbane City, Corinda & Palmdale * Lunch included
LONGREACH & ANAKIE GEM FIELDS EASTER TOUR
OPERA IN THE CAVES
31 MARCH – 7 APRIL 2021
28 TO 31 MAY 2021
From $3190 per person twin share, Single Supplement $560
Includes: 1 night Roma, 3 nights Longreach, 2 nights Emerald, 1 night Gladstone. All Meals Highlights: Longreach Hall of Fame, QANTAS Museum, Dinosaur Stampede at Lark Quarry, Gem fossicking in Anakie
3 NIGHTS IN YEPPOON
From $1379 per person twin share, based on pension rail concession, Single Supplement $280
Includes: Return tilt train travel, All Meals, 3 nights ocean view accommodation Yeppoon. Highlights: Opera performance, Capricorn Caves & Keppel Island Day Trip
Extended holidays include return home transfers (Brisbane Metropolitan Area). Day tours marked with * includes lunch. Itineraries and prices quoted are subject to change.
RING NOW FOR BROCHURES hermans@hermanstoursandtravel.com.au 32 YOUR TIME MAGAZINE / February 2021
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HERMAN’S TOURS & TRAVEL
CALL 3379 6255 ABN: 27862101744 Brisbane
28/01/2021 11:21:55 AM
