Natural Attractions of Croatia: a Green Guide for Children

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Roberta Šimunić

a Green Guide for Children


Roberta Šimunić: Natural Attractions of Croatia: a Green Guide for Children Concept: Kata Ivanković Marić Editor: Vesna Stričević Copyright © Foma, 2015. Publisher: FOMA Studio za nakladništvo, trgovinu i usluge Creska 18, 10110 ZAGREB Cover design: Gordana Ivković Illustration: Gordana Ivković

Proofreading: Rosanda Tometić Copy editing: Senka Galenić Translation: Ivana Brozić Graphic design: Kata Ivanković Marić (Naklada Nika) Manuela Vladić-Maštruko Tisak: Kerschoffset Zagreb d.o.o.

ISBN 978 953 6878 28 4 A CIP katalogue record for this book is available in the Online Catalogue of the National and University Library in Zagreb as 000898238.

List of photographs by author and page: Mario Romulić & Dražen Stojčić • www.romulic.com • pp.: 8, 18, 21, 22, 24, 25, 27T, 32, 33L, 34, 38, 40TR, 49R. Vladimir Šimunić • www.simunicphoto.com • pp.: 4R, 5TL, 9R, 13TR, 31L, 31B, 36T, 39, 45. Igor Vresk • www.didot.hr • pp. 3, 4L, 5TR, 9L, 11, 12B, 13R, 14, 15, 17B, 19, 20, 23, 23L, 26R, 27R, 28, 29, 39R, 41L, 42L, 43, 44, 46, 47, 48, 51, 52. www.123rf.com • pp. 4T, 10B, 12R, 23T, 30, 36L, 39B, 45, 49L. Mirjana Hudoletnjak • pp. 5R, 13L, 39, 40BL, 41BR, 42R. vlč. Željko Zuanović • www.tritonovo-blago.com • pp. 31 TR. Butković Silvija • p. 33. Tomić Nikolina • p. 38. Balaško Branko • p. 41. Legenda: L - left • R - right • T - top • B – bottom


Contents Introduction .......................................................................................................................4 National Parks ..................................................................................................................7 Plitvice Lakes National Park .......................................................................... 8 Risnjak National Park ..........................................................................................11 Northern Velebit National Park .................................................................... 14 Paklenica National Park ................................................................................... 18 Krka National Park ............................................................................................. 21 Brijuni National Park ......................................................................................24 Kornati National Park ..................................................................................... 27 Mljet National Park .......................................................................................... 32 Nature Parks ................................................................................................................ 35 Kopački rit ............................................................................................................. 36 Papuk ....................................................................................................................... 38 Lonjsko polje ........................................................................................................40 Medvednica ............................................................................................................. 41 Žumberak – Samoborsko gorje .................................................................43 Velebit ..................................................................................................................... 44 Telašćica .................................................................................................................45 Lake Vrana ............................................................................................................46 Biokovo .................................................................................................................... 47 Učka ..........................................................................................................................48 Lastovo Archipelago ................................................................................................. 49 Let’s revise ... ............................................................................................................... 50 And one more thing … ............................................................................................ 52 We are part of the earth and it is part of us. The perfumed flowers are our sisters. The bear, the deer, the great eagle, these are our brothers. The rocky crests, the dew in the meadow, the body heat of a pony, and man all belong to the same family.. From Chief Seattle's letter to the president of the United States, 1854.

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Introduction

ŕż” Protected areas

ŕż” Protection of nature

1. Strict nature reserve

Nature has always been changing through slowpaced, natural processes, but the growth of human population has significantly accelerated the dying out of animal species and disappearance of large natural systems. Air and water pollution also take its toll. The survival of the humanity depends on its cohabitation and balance with nature that provides food, air, water and fertile soil. An increasing number of endangered species and ecosystems are therefore being protected by law. Red Lists - lists containing data on endangered species, their distribution, features and causes for the endangered status. They are compiled by experts specialising in one particular group of flora or fauna.

Croatia is one of ecologically best preserved areas in Europe, boasting numerous natural attractions and great diversity. The State Institute for Nature Protection is in charge of nature protection in Croatia, estimating which areas and animal species are most seriously threatened. First nature protection regulations in Croatia date from the 13th century, when felling was restricted around Trogir, KorÄ?ula and Dubrovnik.

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There are nine categories of protected areas: 2. National park 3. Nature park 4. Special nature reserve 5. Regional park 6. Natural monument 7. Important landscape area 8. Forest park and 9. Monument of park architecture. The category of strict nature reserve is the strictest, while forest park is the most flexible category. National and nature parks together cover 5151 square kilometres or 9.1% of land. Further 420 smaller areas are protected in Croatia across various categories. Due to their value, beauty and variety, some protected areas have been included in the lists of areas of international importance. Plitvice Lakes National Park has been listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site and Velebit Nature Park included in the list of biosphere reserves. As a member of European Geoparks Network, Papuk Nature Park became first Croatian geopark in 2007. Ecology - the study of interactions among living organisms and their environment.


࿔ Protected flora and fauna Croatia is among the first five European countries in terms of biological diversity. Protected flora and fauna include 846 animal species (359 bird species and 74 mammal species), 809 plants and 314 fungi. Biodiversity refers to the general variety of life on Earth and includes diversity among species and their habitats, and among specimens of the same species.

• Strictly protected flora and fauna The protection refers to endemic species and those on the verge of extinction. It is forbidden to kill, hunt, hold in captivity or sell such animals, or pick, collect, damage, cut or dig out such plants.

• Protected animals These animals are rare, but are not facing extinction. They can be hunted if that does not threaten their existence. Hunting is therefore regulated by closed seasons and strictly regulated trade.

࿔ Ecology networks Protection of nature in Croatia involves ecology networks, too. These are systems of ecologically important areas in which endangered and rare habitats are objects of preservation. When Croatia joined the EU, all protected areas became part of Natura 2000, an ecology network of terrestrial and marine areas. Ecosystem - a natural community of living organisms and non-living matter in a specific habitat.

Main reasons for extinction and endangered status are: One quarter of all mammal species, one eighth of all bird species and one third of all amphibians are in danger of disappearance and extinction.

• Habitat destruction

• Commercial exploitation (plant gathering, hunting, animal trade) • Pollution

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How to behave in nature

• You are visiting the forest and all its living creatures – behave yourself, as you would when visiting somebody’s house. • Do not gather plants or touch animals. • Animals are very timid, so avoid making loud noises. Loud talking or music will upset them! • Do not damage nests and burrows. • Animals are scared of human scent – so do not touch animal living places or their young. You would not want a mum to leave her young because of your scent! • Never carve your name into the bark of trees. The bark protects the tree, and various parasites may get in through the cuts and make the tree ill or wither. • Take with you everything you have brought, especially rubbish. Never leave rubbish in the wild. • Observe the warning signs and walk only on marked trails. • Fire is particularly dangerous – it can destroy whole forests and their habitats. Do not light fires and if you come across the remains of one, make sure you put it out. It is best to pour water over the site of fire. Let a photo, a drawing or a nice memory be your only souvenirs.

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National parks National parks are the most widely-known type of protected natural areas. They cover spacious areas marked off for the purpose of protecting the ecosystems and preserving original natural values. Exploitation of natural resources is not allowed, but educational and recreational activities are.

Risnjak

PlitviÄ?ka jezera

Brijuni

Paklenica Sjeverni Velebit

Krka

Kornati

Mljet

There are eight national parks in Croatia.

They include: the Brijuni islands, Northern Velebit, Risnjak, Paklenica, Krka, the Plitvice Lakes, the Kornati islands and Mljet.


Plitvice Lakes National Park

Plitvice Lakes National Park is the oldest and largest of Croatian national parks. It is located in the central part of Croatia, in the region of Lika. The Plitvice Lakes were given the status of a national park in 1949 and due to their exceptional beauty and value, they were included in UNESCO’s List of World Heritage Sites in 1979. This park is famous for its beautiful lakes and waterfalls surrounded by a lush forest of beech, spruce and fir. In places, it still resembles the original virgin forest, inhabited by many rare animal and plant species. At Plitvice Lakes you can find numerous caves, meadows and springs. You can walk, hike, cycle and row a boat in the Park. It is not easy to see everything in one day, but you can take a scenic train or see some of the lakes by a sightseeing boat.

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࿔ The legend of the lakes According to a legend, there was a horrible drought in the area. All living creatures, people, animals and plants, prayed for some rain. The Dark Queen appeared, took pity and sent the rain. It rained until all the lakes filled with water. And one lake was given the name Prošćansko, as in the word prošnja – praying – for water.

࿔ And how were the lakes actually formed? The lakes are fed by a number of rivers and streams. They have been creating tufa barriers for centuries, making shallow pools that later became the lakes. Sixteen lakes were created in this way, connected by about 300 smaller or bigger waterfalls. The largest rivers feeding the lakes are the White and Black River. Did you know that Kozjak Lake is the deepest lake? It is no less than 47 m deep!


Do you know where the name Plitvice comes from? From the word pličina or plitvak (a shallow), first mentioned in a document dating from 1777.

࿔ The Upper Lakes Prošćansko and Kozjak Lakes are the largest lakes in the park. A twenty metre high Labudovac waterfall conceals numerous caves called Špiljski vrt (Cave Garden). In the past you could walk between them, and even enter Janečekova cave, but guess what happened! Tufa! Tufa really changes the look of landscape around here!

Do you know how tufa is formed? The water here is rich in limescale (calcium minerals), which settles, with the help of special algae and moss, on rocks, plants, even on objects submerged in water. The settled limescale is called tufa, and the amazing cascades are made of tufa accretions – barriers. As tufa is constantly created, everything keeps changing – even the lakes can change their shape. Of course, the changes are slow – 400 years ago tufa joined two lakes into one: Kozjak! One whole year is needed for tufa to grow a couple of millimetres! Tufa barriers are rare. In Croatia you can find them at Rastoke and Krka. Other well-known tufa barriers are those in Lake Pyramid, Mono and Trona Pinnacles in the USA, North Dock Tufa in the UK and Ashtarak in Armenia.

࿔ The Lower Lakes The four Lower Lakes – Milanovac, Gavanovac, Kaluđerovac and Novakovića Brod – lie in a canyon. Their cascades merge with the Plitvica stream, fall down the highest waterfall and form the source of the river Korana. The Korana flows on through the canyon and down more waterfalls. The canyon is also strictly protected. Did you know that Veliki slap waterfall is 78 m high? It is the highest waterfall in Croatia! One of the nicest waterfalls lies between Milanovac and Gavanovac. It was named after Croatian prima donna Milka Trnina! Too much to remember? Don’t worry. You will find a sign next to each lake with its name and other useful information.

࿔ Rastoke – Plitvice in miniature The village of Rastoke near Slunj lives on two rivers, Korana and Slunjčica, which form numerous beautiful big and small waterfalls running over tufa cascades. A small village perches above the waterfalls, with watermills that still function. Did you know that laundry-washing baskets, using the power of the waterfalls, used to be attached to the watermills? They were proper washing machines of their time!

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■ Fauna

■ Flora

The brown bear is a symbol of the Plitvice Lakes, but many other animals live here – wolves, lynx, wild boars, martens, otters, roe-deer... and, of course, the bear!

There are more than 1000 different plant species in the park, among which 50 types of orchid. One of these is lady's slipper orchid, a specially protected species. There are also three rare kinds of carnivorous plants in the park, which feed on insects.

• Brown bear The brown bear is almost extinct in Europe, so it is specially protected. It weighs around 150 kg, and when it stands up on its hind legs, it is almost 3 m tall! The bear feeds on small animals, berries and grass, and it can drag away pray twice its own size!

• Wild boars Wild boars like humid forests and wallowing in mud. They live in herds. Males can weigh up to 200 kg. Unlike domestic pigs, boars have dark, coarse, bristly coats and males have large tusks. Rootled-up fields in the Plitvice area clearly betray the presence of wild boars.

• Lady's slipper orchid The lady's slipper orchid is one of the rarest and most exquisite orchids in Europe, which is why it is protected. Its name comes from the shape of its flowers, which resemble a slipper. The flowers are big and unusual, with a scent reminiscent of apricots. The lady’s slipper orchid has two stamens, while other orchids only have one. • Virgin forest Be careful not to stray on your explorations – you could get lost in the virgin forest! Yes, there is a virgin forest here! Čorkova uvala is a forest of beech and fir covering almost 80 hectares (more than 100 football pitches). It grows in a completely natural way, without any human influence!

Did you know that there are 321 butterfly species, 157 bird species and 20 bat species in the Park? Many animal and plant species are protected. The bones of the cave bear have been found in several caves.

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Risnjak National Park

Risnjak National Park is located in Gorski kotar region. It includes the mountain of Risnjak, the source of the river Korana and the mountain of Snježnik. The park was founded in 1953 and spans across 64 km2. Risnjak belongs to the Dinaridic system, connecting the Alps and the Dinarides. It is only 15 km away from the coastline (aerial distance), which is the reason for huge climate differences. In a small area you can thus find almost all types of forests, steep cliffs, ravines, plains, mountain tops, karst formations, as well as numerous plants and animals. Lush vegetation covers many karst pits, sinkholes and limestone formations. The park lies at an altitude of 300 to 1500 m above sea level and represents a barrier between the Mediterranean and the continental Croatia.

࿔ The peaks There are numerous, well-marked hiking trails in the park, leading to the peaks. You can choose between simple and more difficult routes. When you reach the peaks, you will be able to see Kvarner bay, Istria, Slovenia and the Alps. The peaks of Risnjak are nothing but cliffs rising above rich green forests. Due to their composition and the elements, the cliffs are unusually shaped. Veliki Risnjak, the highest peak, lies at 1528 m and Snježnik at 1506 m.

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࿔ The walk

■ Fauna

If you are not an adventurer and a lover of hiking, walk down the educational Leska trail. It is only 4200 m long, but the signs along the trail will tell you almost everything about Risnjak. You can also try Medvjeđa staza trail, and don't forget to visit the source of the river Kupa with the amazing butterfly valley!

Luxurious vegetation and the variety of terrain are home to a large number of animal species, particularly birds. You can find 114 bird species in the Park, 26 of which are protected. Three large predators found their home here, too: the wolf, the lynx and the brown bear.

Did you know that there is organized watching of animals in the park? Animals are very timid and easily feel the presence of man. It is easier to spot an interesting animal if you join a guided group, than by wondering around all by yourself.

࿔ The source of the river Kupa The Kupa emerges from an unusually turquoise lake. The lake is not big, but it is very deep. It has only been explored to the depth of 80 m. The source lies below a steep rock face, almost 250 m high. There are more than 500 butterfly species in the river valley! Do you need more reason to visit?

࿔ Kamačnik If you liked the source of Kupa, you might like Kamačnik, too. This small river, only 3 km long, runs through a picturesque canyon, forming small waterfalls all the way until it joins the river Dobra. 12

• Lynx The lynx is a very rare and furtive animal after which the massif was named. It is difficult to spot it, or even to come across its footprints. The lynx is the largest predator from the European family of felines. It is around 150 cm long and weighs around 25 kilos. You can recognize it by tufts of hair at the ends of spikey ears. It feeds on small animals such as squirrels, snakes and rabbits, and it hunts at night.

• Wolf The wolf shares ancestry with domestic dog and is probably the forefather of all dogs. Long ago, it was the most wide-spread wild animal on earth. It usually hunts roe-deer, red deer, boars and small mammals. Wolves live in small packs that usually include parents and offspring. Each pack has its own territory, which it marks by urine and defends from other packs. Did you know that only about 200 wolves remain in Croatia? Risnjak National Park is running a project on tracking two wolf packs – the Risnjak pack and the Snježnik pack. The wolves are traced by means of radio transmitters placed inside the collars.


■ Flora People do not live on Risnjak, so plant species have developed almost free from human influence. The mountain is mostly covered by forests of beech, fir, spruce, mountain maple, elm and hop hornbeam. Forests grow up to the altitude of 1200 m asl, but higher up their growth is stunted. Many interesting and rare plants and flowers grow on Risnjak peaks, such as edelweiss, orchid, black vanilla orchid, silvery yarrow, leather flower, twoflower violet, rockfoil, lady’s fingers, alpine anemone, false aster, purple primrose and tiger lily.

Which leaf does not belong here? chestnut

mistletoe

birch maple

beech

pine

spruce

fig

oak

Did you know that the peaks of Risnjak are covered by snow for more than 150 days in a year?

࿔ Finding your way in nature

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Hiking trails are marked. Markings are signs that hikers use and they consist of a red circle with a white centre. Arrows pointing in various directions and signs with inscriptions showing direction and distance to a destination are usually found at crossroads.

࿔ What if you get lost? You don't have a map or a compass? You can find your way by the position of the Sun. Did you know that in these parts the Sun is positioned in the east at 6 a.m., in the south at noon and in the west at 6 p.m.? Another helpful thing

is moss, which is thickest on the northern side of trees. Also, bark is usually rougher and darker on the northern side of trees, canopies are thinner and snow lasts longer. But it would be even better if you didn't get lost! When walking through the forest, you should always go with a group and follow the marked paths.

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Northern Velebit National Park

At the length of 145 km, Velebit is the longest mountain range in Croatia. It is 30 km wide in the north and 10 km wide in the south-east. It includes a number of peaks and ridges. They say Velebit has two faces: the forest-covered one in Lika and the barren and rocky one along the coast. It is mostly built of limestone – a real empire of karst and a variety of relief formations (karst peaks, ledges, towers, pillars, sinkholes, grikes, caves and pits are the symbols of Velebit). This is one of the most interesting karst areas in the world. Although Velebit has most rainfall and snowfall in Croatia, there are no streams or fluvial valleys here, because water seeps through the limestone, dissolving it and making it porous. The Northern Velebit National Park dates from 1999, being the newest national park in Croatia. It covers some previously protected areas.

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There you can also find the strict nature reserve of Hajdučki and Rožanski kukovi, Visibaba Botanical Reserve, the site of Croatian sibirea, Zavižan-Balinovac-Velika kosa Botanical Reserve, together with the famous Velebit Botanical Garden – a monument of park architecture. Farthest to the south there is Štirovača, a special reserve of forest vegetation, with virgin forests of beech and fir. The highest peak is Veliki Zavižan (1676 m).

࿔ Zavižan One of the best-known parts of Northern Velebit is the rocky, cone-shaped peak of Zavižan. This is the habitat of the strictly protected karst edelweiss, but there are many other rare and endemic plants growing on Zavižan, too. Nearby, you can see the oldest weather station in Croatia, established in 1953, and a hiking hut. The hut is the starting point of many hiking trails across Velebit.


࿔ Premužić trail Numerous hiking trails run across the park and the best known is the Premužić trail. It goes from Zavižan to Baške Oštarije, passing through the most beautiful parts of the park. It is 57 km long! More than seventy years ago, an engineer Ante Premužić built the trail in stone, like a dry stone wall. As a masterpiece of construction, the trail is protected as cultural property. You can walk through the protected park, down the protected trail and see protected plants and animals! Now you see how special Velebit is!

■ Hajdučki kukovi and Rožanski kukovi Strict Nature Reserve

Hajdučki kukovi and Rožanski kukovi Strict Nature Reserve is located in the Northern Velebit. This is Croatian oldest strict reserve, established back in 1969. This unusual kingdom of karst consists of some fifty rocky peaks higher than 1600 m. The areas of Hajdučki kukovi and Rožanski kukovi are separated by Lubenovac pass and by Veliki Lubenovac, a beautiful alpine meadow that used to be inhabited by cattle herders who would bring their cattle up there, but only in summertime. Velebit is a very inhospitable place in winter.

࿔ Rožanski kukovi The cliffs of Rožanski kukovi are slightly bigger and more easily accessible, so you will even find a climbers’ hut there. The highest peak is Gromovača (1676 m).

࿔ Hajdučki kukovi The area of Hajdučki kukovi is difficult to climb and not yet entirely explored. Most of the peaks are higher than 1650 m. Kuk - cone-shaped rocky peak with a rounded top.

࿔ Pit caves Deep karst pit caves with vertical shafts are a special attraction of Northern Velebit. The Park, and particularly the area of Hajdučki and Rožanski kukovi, belongs to the most interesting speleological locations in the world. About 300 speleological objects have been discovered here, 98% of which are pits. The best-known pits are Lukina jama – Trojama, Patkov gušt, Velebita, Meduza and Slovačka jama. Can you distinguish a cave from a pit cave? Pit caves are underground formations with vertical or sharply inclined walls. Caves are subterranean or surface formations with horizontal or slightly inclined walls.

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Roberta Šimunić

Discover natural attractions of Croatia in an interesting and fun way! Croatia is rich in natural attractions and diversity and is also one of ecologically best preserved areas in Europe. Travelling through Croatia with the Green Guide, you will discover attractions and gems hidden in deep forests, on steep hillsides, in the depths of the sea… Imaginative illustrations and amazing photographs bring to life Croatian national and nature parks, fascinating facts about plants and animals, and everything else that makes the nature in Croatia attractive, special and wonderful. A Green Guide for Children inspires an interest in nature and environment protection. Interesting facts and explanations are highlighted, so you can easily find answers to questions such as: • Where can I see the highest waterfall and the deepest pit? • How can I find a lynx or track a wolf? • Which mountain range is the longest and where can I find the largest number of protected areas? • What is Croatian škrgavica and are there other animals or plants with Croatian names? • Are there plants and animals that live only in Croatia? • Which plant lives up to a thousand years and which animal only two weeks? • What is bird ringing and is there a bank of feathers? Your amazing journey through Croatia is about to start! Discover Croatia is a set of children’s books that will help parents travelling with children, as well as teachers and educators, to encourage children to learn about this amazing country in a fun way.

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