NANCY COFFEY A SELECTION OF WORKS PATTERN CUTTING ‘14
‘Innovative Pattern Cutting’ | UAL: Central Saint Martins
FINAL PROJECT PROCESS & DEVELOPMENT
Jil Sander Fall 2009 Ready To Wear.
Working Drawings for prepartion before beginning the task. Final pattern pieces below.
Beginning with sewing coat block with sleeve and side panel. Adjust and correct as seen in image two...
Second toile cut & sewed, slashed & opened. Side panel removed and shaping of side seam begins with creating & underarm gusset.
Fashion tape to mark design lines, easy to change and remove.
Collar was created with a piece of fabric, neck measurements marked and then draping the shape on the stand.
Slashing the center back all the way across into sleeve, this releases a pull allowing it to sit in place accordingly.
Adjustments to side panels to create more volume, stop collapsing seen in left picture along with moving seams slightly over.
FINAL PROJECTFINISHED & FINAL TOILE
STRUCTURE & FORM
Pattern pieces of Alexander McQueen’s Two piece Suit.
Alexander McQueen, Spring / Summer ‘99. Two piece suit.
Development and Process of the suit jacket, created from draping on the stand.
Second Toile. Adjustment to the overall fit and correcting collar roll, ‘M’ shape further up towards the houlder.
CĂŠline Spring / Summer 2011 Ready To Wear.
Front pattern piece also becomes the sleeve as it folds on itself. Back becoming a seperate pattern piece. Draped on the stand.
Adjustments notes: lift 3.5cm at front sleeve opening, create more of an ‘S’ shape. Slash & open sleeve.
Viktor & Rolf Fall 2011 Ready To Wear.
First patterns made in an afternoon excersie, using both flat and draping pattern cutting techniques.
Pierre Cardin 1981.
First toile of Pierre Cardin sleeve, pins are holding in place further adjustment of taking 1.2 cm from each side of sleeve.
Pierre Cardin, 1966.
Adjustments to 3-dimensional bust area to increase size and reposition dart along with moving shoulder in 1.2cm.
First Pattern, Hermes Coat. Pattern created from draping on stand. 30 minute exercise.
Pierre Hermes Fall ‘14. Ready to Wear.
MODELLING
Hussein Chalayan
Draping shift dress on the stand, fitted and corrected accordingly before modelling the layered top part with paper folds...
Folding the paper based from the size of the shift dress and cutting the neck and armholes. Placement of layers is unequally spaced.
DRAPING
Vivienne Westwood
When working on front pins should never cross to back. Important to see side seams when draping.
Marking Side seams with dots (more accurate then a line) and a ‘L’ shape at the meeting points.
The art of draping : Practice, Patients and Persistence
CONTOUR/BODY FIT
Method 1: Using Designer Tape to create a corset based on design sketches.
Method 2: ‘Tape and Paper’ technique allows quick preparation of a corset pattern.
Experimentation and application of using fashion tape to create shapes for the basis of tops, shirts and corsets.
Tecnique allows the design to extend from the shoulder to as low as desired.
DIAGNOSTIC FLAT CUTTING COLLARS
Two different methods of cutting a Rever collar, flat draft & draping on the stand.
Four shirt collars/pattern exploring the variations in shape, height and distance on neck.
Pattern based on a classic Sailor Collar pattern with extra large roll, extending over the shoulder.
Sailor collar flat draft, quick method including the stand.
DIAGNOSTIC FLAT CUTTING DART MANIPULATION
Experimenting with manipulation of the bodice to create shape for the bust and shoulder blades.
Creating blocks from the stand. Flat draft method for removing bust dart creating a dartless block.
DIAGNOSTIC FLAT CUTTING SLEEVES
Realible drafting method for a sleeve from the measurements of front & back armholes.
Flat drafting of ‘Raglan & Gusset’ sleeves.
SHAPE THROUGH CUT SPIRAL CUTTING
Interesting way of cutting fitted garments in such a way you have to think as the seams wrap around the body at a 45 째 angle.
Normal straight 90 째 lines become 45 째 when using spiral cutting.
The patterns are created on the flat, front and back are overlapping allowing seam to run through and intersect.
Pattern at top is garment on left page and the pattern below is the front and back of a shirt.
CURRICULUM VITAE
Nancy Coffey
Creative Pattern Cutter/Designer
website: http://nancycoffey.weebly.com/ coffey.nancy90@gmail.com http://nancoff.tumblr.com/ +44 (0) 7475750337 +49 (0)15902146748
EDUCATION Jan 2003 - Dec 2008
St Columba’s College High School Education, VCE 2008.
Jan 2007 - Dec 2007
WRR20102 Certificate II in Retail Operations.
Feb 2009 - Dec 2011
Whitehouse Institute Of Design Bachelor of design, Fashion. Graduated with Distinction.
Nov 2013 - Feb 2014
Volkshochschule German Level B1
July 2014 - Sept 2014
Central Saint Martin’s - London College of the Arts Innovative Pattern Cutting for Graduates & Professionals
EXPERIENCE Oct 2009 - Dec 2011 Stock assistant & Visual merchandiser
Forever New Stock control, Visual merchandising displays, customer services and styling customers.
Nov 2009 - Sep 2010 Designer/Owner.
‘Coffey’ Headband label. Development, design & production. Stocked in Lady Petrova in Melbourne CBD.
August 2010 Internship
‘Willow’ Sydney, Australia. Fabric sourcing and creative input into conceptual designs. Construction of sample and garments intended for retail. Pattern making for new collections. Fabric preparation and cutting. Quality control and repair of unsatisfactory garments
Feb 2011 Internship
‘Zimmermann’ Sydney, Australia. Garment quality assurance; adjustment and repairs of sample designs. Sewing fastenings on new collections. Paper work for invoices, receipts and remittance advices. Stock distribution, promotion and logistics
Dec 2011 - Feb 2014 Production / Studio Manager Textile Painter
Starstyling, Production Co-ordinator & Studio Manager. Pattern Cutting, Grading, Spec Sheets/ Production sheet, Technical packs, Fabric & transfer foil wholesale ordering, Fabric preparation & cutting. Visiting Fabric Fairs.
Illustrator, photoshop & Indesign tasks. Sample garment contruction. Hand Painting- readymade garments & fringes. Quality control and repairing. Label design. In house heat press transfer foil production. Collections: Stripe for your right to party, EGAL, Doodle (hand painted the whole collection, Assorted for Men, AGRO Polis, Japan Special edition, F*ck the minimal. Projects: Agro Polis; Show case/presentation. Olympus photography playground (Handpainted curtains) Duve exhibtion, working on a live stream creating new ideas.
KEY SKILLS Creative Pattern Cutting Structure and Form,Diagnostic Flat Cutting, Shape through cut, Spiral and Draping Technqiues. Graphic & Print design. Adobe Creative Suite (Indesign, Photoshop, Illustrator) Microsoft Office Sampling Screen Printing (Assisting) Mimaki Cutting Plotter for transfer foil. Quality Control Technical Packs (Garment Production)
PUBLICATIONS Dec 2010
Headbands, stocked at Lady Petrova. Melbourne Street Shopping magazine
Jan 2012 - Aug 2012
Store front feature advertise Chumba Concept Salon in Chapel St
March 2012
Graduate Collection Piece featured in Russian ‘hair’ magazine.
PERSONAL INTERESTS Films & Documentaries. Running, Fitness, half marathons. Illustraion. Modern Art. Imagery blogs. Painting.
References available upon request.
Nancy Coffey coffey.nancy90@gmail.com http://nancycoffey.weebly.com/
+447475750337 +49 15902146748