Wonky Quilt Blocks e-Book
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Wonky Log Cabin Block Tutorial---taken from Tall Grass Prairie Studio
Getting Started: For this block you will need: fabric cut into 1.5 inch strips selvage to selvage (for this block I used 4 different fabrics, you will need at least two), rotary cutter, ruler and self healing cutting mat, iron These are the fabrics I chose. If you cut strips selvage to selvage you will have plenty of fabric to cut the logs. If I’m using scraps I trim so that the strips have straight edges so I get nice straight Ÿ in. seams.
Step 1 To start you will need a center for your log cabin block. I cut a rectangle approximately 2 x2.5 inches. You can start with a square or a rectangular shape. It can be a bit wonky if you choose. The shape of your center will influence the look of your block.
Step 2 Line up the strip with your center and cut the strip a wee bit longer. With right sides together and using a Âź inch seam, sew this strip to the top of the center. Press the seam away from the center.
You’ll have a unit that looks like this.
Step 3 Line up your ruler with the straight edge of the center piece and trim the excess from the first log. Trim the other side as well.
Step 4 Notice that I have put in a pin. This pin marks the top of the block. I learned this technique in Denyse Schmidt’s book. She calls it a compass pin. The order for adding logs is top, right, bottom, and left. It is easy to confuse top and bottom or left and right and this pin helps keep you oriented so you don’t add logs in the wrong order. Now you are ready to add your next log. Cut your next strip, again a smidge longer than the right side. Sew right sides together. Press seams away from center.
Step 5 Continue this process, cut, sew, press, trim until you have completed one round of logs.
Step 6 I like to sew with the log on the bottom so that I can see and make sure seams lay properly.
Step 7 Your first round of logs should look like this. Here is where the fun and the wonkiness begins. It is also the time where you have the freedom to make design decisions that will impact the look of your block.
Step 8 Use you ruler and your rotary cutter to trim a bit of wonkiness into your block. I decided to trim the left side. Notice that the angle of the trim is very slight. Just a slight angle will multiply as the block grows. I have found that severe angles make this process much more difficult and don’t give that subtle wonky feeling that I like a block to have. Don’t feel that you need to trim everywhere. A little goes a long way. I’m only trimming one side in this round.
Step 9 Now you’re ready to add a new round of logs. It’s hard to see the wonkiness at this point. It will become apparent after the next logs are added. Be sure to orient you block so the pin is at the top. Cut and add your next round of logs, top, right, bottom, left. Be sure to press and trim after each addition.
Step 10 Here is the block with the second round of logs. Do you see how the wonkiness of the left side is now more apparent. Also, notice I cut one of the logs a bit short, a disaster, of course not. I think I'll trim and add wonkiness to the top.
Step 11 Time for another design decision. This time I chose to trim just a bit of wonkiness on the top and bottom of this round of logs. Sometimes I use a bit of paper to audition the wonkiness so I can decide which way or how much to trim. There is no right answer, just go with your instincts. I do make sure I always leave at least a ½ inch of the log so that it doesn’t disappear in the seam allowance. Again, notice it's a slight angle for the trim.
Step 12 Check your compass pin to be sure it’s at the top and add a new round of logs, top, right, bottom left.
Step 13 For this round of logs I decided to change it up a bit and piece one of the logs. Cut three pieces of your 1.5 in. strips. Make sure you make the total length longer than usual to account for the seam allowances.
Step 14 Sew the pieces together, press, and you have a log with a little personality. Add this log, press and trim and you have completed another round of logs.
Step 15 It’s time to make another design decision. I decided at this point not to add any wonkiness to this round of logs. You may want to trim one or more of the sides to add additional wonkiness. It’s up to you.
Step 16 Continue to add rounds of logs and when the whole round is complete, trim for wonkiness if you desire. I chose to add this polka dot next. Again, I left this round of logs straight. At this point the block measures approximately 9 inches square. I want 12 inch blocks for this quilt. Are you up for a little math? To get a block large enough to trim to a 12 inch square I need to add at least 4 inches to the length and width of the block. Don’t forget to take into consideration the seam allowances. I decided to use the cream solid and add 2 inch logs to the top and right and 3 inch logs to the bottom and left. That gives me a bit extra to play with when I’m ready to square up the block.
Step 17 The block is ready to be squared up. You can square up your block a couple of ways. A see through ruler works great, but I don’t have a 12 inch one. If you have one, place it over your block and trim making sure you have at least ½ inch of the outer row of logs.
Step 18 I use the lines on my cutting mat to square up my block. Position your block on the mat and use the lines on the mat to make a straight edge. Before you trim make sure you know where the block will trim on the opposite side. I have trimmed too much on one side and had to replace logs because I made the block too short. The woodworkers mantra “measure twice, cut once” is really good to remember when squaring up a block.
Step 19 Rotate the block 90 degrees and line up your straight edge to the line on the mat. Trim the opposite sides. Again, measure twice then cut!
Done! This is the finished block.
Something to Think About This is another quilt I did using this method. What I love about making wonky log cabin blocks is that in addition to fabric choices you have the opportunity to make design decisions as you work. Notice in this quilt how the shape of the centers affects the look of the blocks. You can choose to use different strip widths. In this quilt I used as small as 1 inch strips to as large as 4 inch strips. You can choose to vary the size of the strips in a round of logs, small ones on the top and right and large on the bottom and left. You can skip a side in a round or blocks or add extra, or piece in an extra block of fabric here and there. All of these decisions will change the looks of your blocks. The possibilities are endless.
Another Example
This is another quilt using the same method, but it looks very different. In this quilt I varied the number of rounds of logs I did in the blocks. Some have as few as one round. This method is very forgiving. If it’s too big, trim it, too small, add another log. Have fun making quilts with wonky log cabin blocks. I’d love to see your work.
Taken from Tall Grass Prairie Studio
Wonky Star Tutorial---Taken from The Silly Boodilly
UPDATED NOTE: I wrote this tutorial, in an attempt to make the process as straight forward and simple to follow as I possibly could. However, please know that if you use triangle shapes cut a bit larger, ( by an inch or two) you will have more leeway in how you position them and more possibilities in getting your star to be EXTRA wonky! You will need to start with 13 squares of fabric each cut 4.5" Out of these 13 squares you should have: ~ 8 white or cream, (these will be for the background) ~ 4 any color/pattern you choose, (these will be for the star points) ~ 1 any color/pattern you choose, (this will be the center of the star)
Stack the 4 star point squares and slice in half so you have 8 triangles.
Select 4 of the background squares and 4 of the star point triangles. Stitch one triangle to the right side of each background square. Changing the angle of the triangles will help create the wonky-ness of the star. (Make sure that when the triangle is flipped and ironed to the correct side, it extends past the edges of the background square.)
Cut the excess background fabric off.
Flip the star point triangle to the right side and press with a hot iron.
Sew the remaining 4 triangles to the left side of these 4 background blocks. You can overlap the triangles slightly at the bottom, or leave a space. Each variation just adds to the wonky-ness.
Again, cut off the excess fabric as shown.
and flip the star point triangle to the left side and press with a hot iron.
Cut off all excess fabric, making the squares 4.5" again.
Take your center square and using a scant, (just under) 1/4" seam allowance, stitch a completed star point square to both the left and right side as shown.
Take one of the remaining star point squares and again using a scant 1/4" seam allowance, sew a plain background square to both the left and right sides. Repeat with the 3 remaining squares.
Press and iron all 3 rows. (Because the background is light in color it's best to iron the seams towards the star points. Do this with the center row as well, thus helping to reduce bulk when all three rows are joined together).
Line up the seams, pin and using a scant 1/4" seam allowance, stitch the top row to the middle row. Repeat with the bottom row.
Iron the seams towards the top and bottom rows. Flip to right side and smile at your completed wonky star!
I would like to note that this technique was first devised by Gwen Marston and shown in her wonderful book Liberated Quilt Making. Taken from The Silly Boodilly
TUTORIAL – WAVY SEAMS---Taken from Pink Chalk Studio
Step 1: I utilized the wavy seam technique to piece each part of this log cabin square. This block was pieced in
the order of top, bottom, left side, right side. The following steps will show the addition of one more round of fabric to the block.
Step 2: Cut strips of fabric that will give you enough width to cut a wave and allow for a seam allowance. I cut this strip 3 inches wide. I tend to be a fabric miser and often cut my strips too small! Be generous with your cuts and save your sanity. I’ll attempt to use my own advice more often.
Step 3: Overlay your wavy edge from the block over the strip.
Step 4: Cut the strip to match the width of the piece you’re joining too.
Step 5: Cut the strip fabric using the wavy edge of the adjoining fabric as your cutting line.
Step 6: A look at the pieces after they’re cut. I toss the little tiny guy into the trash.
Step 7: A look at the two pieces just before they are joined.
Step 8: Ta da! Unfortunately these two pieces did not join themselves. This step is a bit tricky. I do not pin my pieces together before sewing. You could but I don’t think it would yield better results and, in fact, might make the task more difficult. I align the edges just before they feed under the presser foot. This takes practice but is not hard. It’s actually fun in a ‘no pins, no hassle’ sort of way. The picture is what your seam looks like after the pieces have been joined. A bit wavy itself. Don’t worry, it will iron flat as soon as you flip the fabric over. Step 8 in more detail. I decided this step needed more pictures. The following is a pictorial of sewing a wavy seam from start to finish:
Step 9: Finished block. This is the block with all 4 sides sewn in place. I have also squared the edges of my block to a final dimension of 15 1/2 inches x 15 1/2 inches. Happy Wavy Seaming!
---Taken from Pink Chalk Studio
Wonky Butterfly Tutorial---Taken from Patchery Menagerie
I wanted a butterfly for something I am making. I looked around for pieced butterflies and didn't find anything that was what I wanted. I wanted a butterfly that looked somewhat real. Finally I got out my son's old "North American Field Guide to the Butterflies" book and studied it. Butterflies have two sets of wings, and they aren't usually significantly different from each other. The "notch" on the outer edge of the butterfly is the space created where the two wings meet visually. I liked the idea of a w-i-d-e butterfly that was more horizontal than vertical. I found a butterfly I liked, and drew it out. After playing with that a while, I put in on some graph paper, made photocopies (so I could use it as a pattern without having to draw it all over again) and tried to figure out how to sew it together.
After a couple of dud attempts, I finally got one I really liked (the orange one, above.) Now I've made two dozen, and I've got it all figured out. So here goes. You can click any of the photos to enlarge them, so you can see better.)
1. For one butterfly, you'll need a 2" strip of fabric about 22" long for the butterfly itself, (here shown in lavender); one strip of background fabric 3" wide x 22", two strips of background fabric 1" wide x 22" and one piece of dark fabric for the body,1" x 3".
2. We'll start with the wings. Sew them together, using a 1/4" seam, as shown below. Press to one side. (I'm not going to go into detail about that, if you make quilts, you know how to do this already.)
3. Fold in half lengthwise, and cut into two equal pieces
4. Cut two pieces 5-1/2" wide. These will be the upper wings. Use the other pieces for the lower wings.
5. Place an upper wing piece on top of a lower wing piece, aligning the seams, as shown.
6. You'll sew the two together at a 45 degree angle. You can click the picture and enlarge it to see just how I measure this to get it the way I want it.
7. Sew, and press the seams to one side. You now have two wings as shown. Set the wings aside.
8. Make the body. Cut a couple of pieces of the 1" background fabric about 3-1/2" long, and sew to each end of the body. In this picture I have a much longer piece, but it's actually too big.
9. This is the trickiest part of the whole thing. Cut pieces of the 1" wide backing fabric into strips about 10" long. You will sew these to the sides of the body at an angle. Your goal is a long tapered shape, wider at the top (about 1/4 - 1/3") and almost to a point at the bottom edge. If yours isn't a point, don't worry. It will be fine as long as it isn't the same width from top to bottom. I usually use a pretty narrow seam allowance. Trim the excess fabric,
and press away from the body fabric.
10. Here's what you're shooting for. The more you do, the better you'll get. You don't want the body too skinny or too short.
11. Now you have two wings and a body, as shown here.
12. Setting one wing aside, fold the inner edge of one wing under itself until it gets to be the shape you like. You are setting the angle of the wings here. They can be wide apart at the top, and closer together at the bottom. Whatever. Play with it until you like the way it looks.
13. Repeat with the other wing. You want to get them pretty symmetrical. When you get them the way you like, press them so the wings get a nice crease.
14. Move one wing out of the way. Gently fold the wing over the body, and stitch on the creased line. Open it to make sure it looks ok, then repeat with the other wing, lining it up so the wings look even and symmetrical. It's OK (I think it's even better) if you can see a bit of background fabric still surrounding the body.
15. Trim the excess and press.
16. Trim the outer edge. For this butterfly, I line up the top corner of the upper wing with the inside edge of the "notch". Then I just slice the excess away with my rotary cutter. Repeat on the other side.
17. Trim the bottom edges of the butterfly's bottom wings. These are supposed to be smaller than the upper wings, so don't be afraid to chop them off.
18. The finished butterfly. You can add more background fabric. As you can see, the butterfly is about 7-1/2" wide and 5" high.
Here are two butterflies, both made with the same technique. As you can see, the butterfly on the left is wider. The body is a bit wider also, and the lower wings are made from a different fabric. I think there is a lot of "wonky" possibilities with this butterfly technique. You could make the upper wings wider. You could trim the wings differently. You could make the body longer.
Have some fun, but you have to post pictures! I want to see how yours turn out! Taken from Patchery Menagerie
Maverick Stars---Taken from Quiltville
Use your meagerest of crumbs to make one-of-a-kind template free star blocks!
I've been a fan of Gwen Marston and her methods of liberated quiltmaking for years and years! This love of "all things wonky" inspired the way I do these little stars. These fun and scrappy stars start out as a basic 9-patch formation! I have here 8 neutral 2.5" squares, and one red center square, all pulled from my scrap 2.5" squares bins. Laying your fabrics in this way will help you remember what goes where! The 4 corner neutral squares are the block corners. The 4 side squares are the foundations for adding your star points! What I love about making these is that I don't have to pre-cut anything. Just grab the crumbs and sew! These stars are perfect for using all those triangles you snip off from joining lengths of binding or borders on the diagonal. You can do all matching star points if you want or do them in two alternating colors, or all scrappy and random as above!
Because I like to chain piece, I sew on all four foundation squares at once! Grab your first square and lay a crumb across one corner at an angle. It can be tall and skinny star point, short and fat or anywhere in between! The one thing you need to watch for is being sure you have enough fabric to cover the foundation when you flip the star point outwards. THINK BIG...it's easy to trim off, but frustrating to not have enough. The second pic
shows a leftover triangle from binding joints! I just randomly place them on the foundation squares and sew..a perfect 1/4" seam isn't even necessary. Sew all four as shown...and if you are using leaders/enders to begin and end your piecing, now is where you will sew two of them through, leaving them under the presser foot. Snip the threads between the leader/ender squares, freeing the star point squares.
Pardon my slightly blurry pics! One hint or help for you! I use a June Taylor pressing/cutting mat next to my machine when working on blocks like this. I have replaced them in the past finding that the canvas cover doesn't hold up well to lots of ironing. After a time it gets stained and dirty, and eventually disintegrates. I took an old cotton towel, and wrapped it around my June Tayor board! Now I can remove the towel and wash it when it gets yucky, and the towel really gives a nice pressing surface.
Take your scissors and trim the excess star point fabric even with the foundation square. Then carefully trim away the excess layer of foundation square. You really don't want the extra thickness behind the star points when working with units this size.
Follow the same proceedure for adding the star points to the other side of the square. I do these "BLIND" meaning, I don't pay attention to the height or the width, I just lay the scrap on there and check to see that the placement gives me enough of the star point to fold back after sewing and cover the foundation square. Continuously sew all 4 star points to their squares. Press Open. Trim the exess star point along the edge of the squares. Trim excess foundation square fabric away from the star points.
This is where you can play! Try different center squares to find one you really like! Or try leftover parts of other projects! I have a bin of 4 patches that I had intended to make a WHOLE QUILT out of. Well, the quilt never got made, but I have used these 4 patches as cornerstones in lots of quilts. They finish at 2" so they are perfect for crumby star centers!
Play with the corner fabrics too for different looks! Try them ALL scrappy, ALL one fabric, or all one stand-out color! For this sample I stayed with the neutrals. Simply sew the units together as if you were sewing a simple 9 patch. Sew the units into rows, and sew the rows together to make the block. These are funky stars! You don't even have to worry about matching seams or being sure that the points aren't chopped off.
If you leave the block as is...it will finish at 6". There is lots of room to play if you want to make it more wonky! Above I took my Dear Jane 5" square ruler and angled it on top of the star. I trimmed the star to this size! FUN!! There are no rules to these crumby stars, you are only as limited as your imagination!
---Taken from Quiltville
Robert, owner Nancy's Fabrics Man who Quilts!!!