THE HUNT
NH
This project started off with a visit to the Discovery Museum researching local industrial heritage. Here there were various exhibitions such as through the eras, a Soldier’s Life and shipbuilding; all showcasing information and artifacts relating to the North East of England. From this research, most inspiration for garment design came from the Soldier’s Life exhibition. Old uniforms, possessions and other details were exhibited that were really interesting. Although many photographs and drawings were collected, there was a clear direction of the work; taking small details from the other exhibitions.
Drawings of uniforms from the Working Life exhibition which showcased working uniforms for waitresses, factory workers and welders during the 1920s-1970s. Despite the 50 year period, the overall look of the clothing is very similar. Both drawings are very baggy and oversized on the arms, suggesting comfort or basic fitting rather than tailored.
Drawings taken from the Soldier’s Life exhibition which inspired silohette and possible details for garment development. The trims on these uniforms were gold coloured which gave the clothing a sense of luxury.
Taking the arrows from the uniform and creating a pattern for potential print or garment design. This pattern could also link to the material. A herringbone fabric could be used for the selected garment.
Drawings of details that were found to be particularly interesting during the research stages of this project. These detail drawings were to help influence direction of design development. These garments were taken from high-end brands such as Diesel, POLO Ralph Lauren and Chloe; inspiring the selected tweed fabric.
Taking inspiration from more recent Soldier uniforms and combining the camouflage with the hood and neck fastening. Camouflage has since worked its way into designer labels as part of khaki colour palettes.
Experimentation with different styled garments but using the same materials and silohette. The cut-out shoulders were inspired by 2015 ready-to-wear garments, adding extra detail to the design, aside from the obscure shaped pockets.
This selection of designs were inspired by the earlier periods of the Soldier’s Life exhibition, taking the silohette and formal trims. This combined with the modern camouflage made an interesting design which could be altered into many different forms.
With tweed being a completely different fabric and texture to camouflage these designs focused more on the fastening and detail. This is one example of the tweed designs which is very similar to the garment design, with three centre straps and a neck strap.
THE LOOK
PHOTOGRAPHY STYLING
Consideration for photography stying took place before the shoot, using inspiration from Pinterest. This helped decide what positions to put the model in and what would work best on location. The model was able to look at the images and know exactly where to put her hands, how to position her feet and the expression to have on her face.
At the start of the research process, soldier’s life was very significant with exploration into Northumberland Soldiers. Through the development process and fabric selection, this theme slowly became more agricultural based, but still using the same research. With tweed generally being associated with hunting and farming, this inspired the location choice of the shoot. Growing up with relatives that live on a farm allowed the shoot to be a little more personal. Having access to all areas of the farm, gave many different opportunities for background and experimentation. Having gone to the location with styling inspiration, this made it easier to select areas which would give a similar effect and give the desired result.
The selected model is a horse rider, regularly spending her time in these kind of agricultural areas, making her no stranger to the lifestyle. She was the perfect model choice for this shoot.
Throughout the shoot it was important to capture the scenary and incorporate the surroundings into the photographs to set the mood. If this garment was photographed in a studio, it would not have had the same effect as it does with the outdoor farm land. This photo was selected as it is simple and casual, yet represents the theme really well. A farm lifestyle is opposite to a luxury lifestyle and it was important to express that. The posture and expression is more natural. She is slouched rather than upright. This is what was desired with this particular photograph.
On this photograph it is more obvious that the jacket is cropped. When looking through modern women magazines, cropped jackets are seemingly popular and appear more feminine than the longer coats. A cropped style was desired to further the femininity of this jacket. From research, farmer tweed jackets are generally quite long and chunky compared to other tweed jackets that are more tailored. The fitting of this jacket was to provide a different look for women who work in agriculture, but also incorporating a sense of style.
HAY-FEVER
This selection of photographs are taking the farm lifestyle even further. To visit a farm for a shoot and not involve the hay bale stacks would be a missed opportunity. These photos were potentially the most effective of the selection as they represented the location really well and it was enjoyable to do. This area in particular matched with the garment well. Although the scenary is important and represented the theme and mood really well, the hay bales expressed farm -life in a more effective way. With the photo on the right, a farmer work-life style was desired, to bring back the ‘Working Life’ exhibition ideas. This is expressed through the posture and use of prop. The model holding the ladder was to create the effect with minimal force.
NH
Naomi Harbottle Fashion Design and Marketing Northumbria University