Inside Napa Valley - Fall/Winter 2019 by Napa Register

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napa valley Fall/Winter 2019

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Make your own gingerbread house

Producing “The Nutcracker”

Autumn in the vineyard

Living the life

Great estates

Getting to know you

Where in the Valley?

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Food Trucks of the Napa Valley

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Holiday festivities return to the valley N O R M A KO S T E C K A Ad ve r ti s i ng Di re ctor The holiday season is upon us and we at Inside Napa Valley want to help you celebrate. We’ll lead off with a look at all the great Christmas events in downtown Napa this year. We’ll talk about some options for that timeless holiday tradition, making a gingerbread house. And we’ll pull back the curtain NORMA and show you just how KOSTECKA much work goes into the annual youth production of the Nutcracker at Lincoln Theater in Yountville. Now that the annual grape crush has finished, we’ll conclude our look at the four seasons in the vineyard with the story of what’s happening to the vines during harvest and as they settle down for the winter. 4 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

We’ll take a look at a fabulous Rutherford hideaway in our Great Estates series and we’ll meet the head of the Napa Valley Community Foundation, Terence Mulligan, in our latest Getting to Know You installment. And we’ll visit with the owners of Tacos Don Carlos in our Food Trucks of the Napa Valley feature. In our quarterly look at good and wine, we’ll learn about the Napa Valley’s other signature crop — olive oil — and we’ll look at the ways wineries try to make the visitor experience special, something that speaks to the spirit of the winery itself. We’ll also see how wineries are turning to special four-footed staffers, winery dogs, to make sure the guest’s visit is memorable. We’ll test your eye for Napa landmarks with “Where in the Valley,” and bring you some of the best food and wine coverage

of the last few months from the Napa Valley Publishing family of newspapers. So put on your holiday best and join us for the latest edition of Inside Napa Valley magazine. On the Cover: Interior designer Thomas Bartlett sets the holiday table with a large glass bowl of apples and cranberries as the centerpiece as one idea for a green Christmas in this 2013 file photo by Lisa James. Editor’s note: Many of you will be receiving this edition by mail, the first time we have distributed our free quarterly magazine to postal customers in and around Napa. If you like what you see and want to be part of supporting local journalism, please consider becoming a member at napavalleyregister.com /members. Fall/Winter 2019

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ime does fly, doesn’t it? Most of the time that’s disconcerting, but not this time of year. This is the time we all look forward to – the weather is wonderful, and with Thanksgiving and Christmas, far-flung family members return home to gather and celebrate the Holidays and each other. Christmas can’t get quickly fast enough, especially if you’re on the younger side. Plus, this is when Santa comes to town! If we’ve all been good and can hold out 6 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Christmas events return to downtown Napa

CRAIG SMITH

just a bit longer, Santa will be here on Saturday, Nov. 30, immediately after the Christmas parade (about 6:30 p.m. or so.) He’ll be setting up in the Archer Hotel’s lobby. Anyone with a Christmas wish list should stop by and put in an early request. The festivities in Napa begin with the annual Christmas Tree Lighting in Veterans Memorial Park. Wednesday, Nov. 27 at 6 p.m.. Mayor Jill Techel will lead the community in lighting the tree. Enjoy free cookies and hot chocolate. Toni Chiapetta, owner of Sweetie Pies,

has been making and donating cookies for years. “My mom taught me to give back. We always support the community, especially since the fires. We all need to step up,” she said. Local children’s groups will be singing and dancing before the mayor leads the countdown to light the tree. The Christmas parade is Saturday, Nov. 30 at 5 p.m. The theme of this year’s parade is “The Twelve Days of Christmas.” Three cash awards of $500 each will Fall/Winter 2019

be given to the parade judges’ choices in three categories: Best Use of Lights, Best Theme-Oriented, and Best Use of Music. “A lot of Napa non-profits have benefited from these awards over the years,” said Steve Pierce, owner of the Executive Room Barber Shop and past-president of the Downtown Napa Association, the primary parade sponsor. Anyone can enter the parade, and it’s free. Whether you choose to build an elaborate float, simply march along with your group, or just watch, the Napa Christmas parade is a hometown tradition that has grown over the years. The parade begins on Second Street at School, heads east on Second to Brown, then north to Third, and finally west back to School Street. Judging takes place on Third Street across from the Second Street garage, in front of the courthouse. From there, all groups are recognized and introduced. Grand Marshals this year are Napa’s Police Chief Robert Plummer and his wife Richene. When they lived in Las Vegas, Napa was a regular and favorite vacation spot. The Plummers knew they would eventually leave Vegas, and had three possible locations in mind. Their last trip here as visitors sealed the deal – they loved the area and especially the community. When the job of police chief opened up here, they knew it was meant to be. Napa Printing, Design Studio & Mail Center has also supported the parade for years. John Dunbar, who purchased the company in 2000, is invested in Napa. “As a company, Napa Printing is honored to support the community,” he said. “We have a vested interest in continuing to try and keep Napa a great place to live as well as a great place in which to do business.” For the past eight years, the Kiwanis Club of Napa has been very involved with the parade; in fact, they practically own it. Their members handle the parade set-up, do all the judging for awards, and emcee the event. Without Kiwanis, there would be no parade. And a special shout-out goes to the staff and elected officials of the city of Napa. Most of what they do is largely unseen – planning to make sure the event is safe, road closures and overseeing closed intersections during the parade and clean up. For example, they staff 23 intersections that have to be closed for the parade – their job isn’t easy, and their work is appreciated. Everything is free. Parade applications can be found at donapa.com or by calling 257-0322. Fall/Winter 2019

OTHER CHRISTMAS EVENTS INCLUDE: HOLIDAY TROLLEY RIDES Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays 3 to 6 p.m., Dec. 6 through 22 Free Gather your friends and family and enjoy a free Holiday trolley ride in downtown Napa. Hop on or off at any of four stops. The Christmas-decorated trolley will be playing music of the season as it travels between four regular stops –at the Oxbow Public Market, Historic Napa Mill, First and School Streets near the Andaz Hotel, and at Dwight Murray Plaza. Special thanks to Napa Valley Wine Trolley for making

this happen. TUBA CHRISTMAS Veterans Memorial Park Sunday, Dec. 7, 2 to 4 p.m. Free Start the holidays with a free concert that’s becoming a Napa tradition. This free Christmas concert features traditional standards and some new arrangements. “You may be thinking Oompah Band but the result of all these brass instruments is a sound much closer to a rich pipe organ,” says conductor Alan Parks. Visit DoNapa.com for details about all events.

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Among all of the holiday traditions, decorating a gingerbread house is among the most intimidating. How do you get the walls to stick? How do you make royal icing? What’s the backup plan if you’ve eaten all the candy decorations? Napa Valley baking experts can help. Several venues in the Napa Valley will host gingerbread decorating activities beginning in early December. Perfect for future artists, budding bakers, or anyone with a sweet tooth, these hands-on gingerbread events allow children (and their parents) to learn new decorating skills, show their creativity, and bring their edible creations home for display — or consumption. Pastry chef Derek Corsino — a three-time Food Network competitor — will lead a class in gingerbread house decorating at Napa Valley College’s Upper Valley campus on Saturday, Dec. 7. Corsino has been teaching these types of classes for about a decade, he said. “I love seeing people’s creativity,” Corsino 14 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

said. During the two-hour class, Corsino demonstrates basic decorating techniques—such as how to create icicles made of frosting—but purposefully stays out of the way of people’s imaginations. “I try not to influence too much,” Corsino said. “Otherwise, every house will look the same.” Some people attend these classes believing they don’t have a “creative bone in their body,” Corsino said, but they’ll assemble a perfectly elegant gingerbread house. “Often, people can surprise themselves,” he said. Corsino said the class sets people up for success by providing pre-assembled gingerbread houses that are placed on sturdy boards. Tables are filled with candies and bags of icing for decor. Corsino’s class, as well as other upcoming gingerbread events, are open to all ages. A couple of gingerbread activities that took

place last year will not return this holiday season. Neither Stewart Cellars in Yountville nor the City of Calistoga will host a Gingerbread House contest this year. Calistoga does plan to bring back the contest in 2020 for the Calistoga Christmas Faire’s 50th anniversary. The Faire was canceled this year due to a lack of funds and volunteers. Below is a list of upcoming gingerbread activities in the Napa Valley. Pre-registration for these events is required. SUNDAY, DEC. 1 Farmstead’s Gingerbread Ranch Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch 738 Main St., St. Helena Help fill the Farmstead Gingerbread Ranch with farm animals. Gather in the barn and enjoy festive cookie decorating with family and friends. Add a cow, pig, chicken or horse to the Gingerbread Ranch and take one or two home. Tickets include a brunch buffet. Time: 10:30 a.m.-1 p.m. (Reservation Fall/Winter 2019

times on the half-hour) Cost: $20 for children (12 and under, includes cookie decorating supplies and brunch buffet) and $35 for adults (includes brunch buffet) www.longmeadowranch.com/things-to-do/seasonal-events SATURDAY, DEC. 7 Friends & Family Gingerbread House Decorating Workshop Napa Valley College, Upper Campus 1088 College Ave., St. Helena Pastry chef Derek Corsino will teach the secrets of assembling and decorating beautiful and festive gingerbread houses. Sign up for this workshop as an individual or a team with friends, family, or work associates. Pre-registration is requested by Dec. 2. Time: 2-4 p.m. Cost: $75 www.napavalleycookingschool.org SATURDAY, DEC. 8, 15, AND 22 Gingerbread House Decorating Vista Collina Resort 850 Bordeaux Way, Napa Vista Collina’s culinary team will supply all the toppings; just bring your child’s imagination. After, your little ones will take home their festive creation. Time: noon-3 p.m. Cost: $35 www.meritagecollection.com/vista-collina SUNDAY, DEC. 22 Hands-On Kids’ Class—DIY Gingerbread Houses The CIA at Copia, 500 First St., Napa Gingerbread houses, mounds of icing, and multi-colored candies will be provided for children and their families to build a gingerbread masterpiece. Learn tips for mixing, rolling, cutting, baking, icing, and candy-creating. Participants will bring home their colorful ‘edible house’ to display during the holidays. This workshop is fun for ages four and up. All children must be accompanied by at least one adult. Time: 1:30-3 p.m. Cost: $50 (includes one adult and one child) and $25 (for each additional guest) www.ciaatcopia.com/event/hands-on-kids-classdiy-gingerbread-houses/ Fall/Winter 2019

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I S A B E L L E S C H M A LT Z

ne of Napa Valley’s greatest holiday traditions — The Nutcracker at the Lincoln Theater — treats audiences to three performances of the Christmastime classic in a single weekend, but the preparation and rehearsals required to produce the show take several months and hundreds of hours of hard work and dedication. From the tiniest of dancers playing cookies and angels to the larger-than-life role of Mother Ginger, The Nutcracker is a complex production with dozens of literally moving parts. Pulling off a flawless performance is no easy feat. “If there is anyone out there who doesn’t think dance is a sport, the sweat flying off these dancers as they run off stage to their next cue proves that theory incorrect,” parent and backstage volunteer Tracie Miller said. “What these kids are doing physically, mentally and emotionally on stage is truly breathtaking.” Napa Regional Dance Company (NRDC) is now entering its 19th season producing the holiday classic. This year’s performance, taking place Saturday and Sunday, Dec. 21-22, has 46 cast members, including both children and adults, as well as multiple volunteers working backstage to help with costumes, hair, makeup, and props. Miller admitted that the first time she worked backstage, it was “a little intimidating.” “This is a massive, full-blown production with moving backdrops and stage props and dancers sprinting from stage right to stage left while fixing their costumes and spraying their hair and tightening their shoes,” Miller said. “If you don’t know what your job is, just get out of the way. But that is what is so amazing; everyone knows what to do from the 5-yearold dancers to us old fogie adults.” 22 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

The Nutcracker begins with a Christmas Eve party scene, where Clara receives a wooden Nutcracker toy from her mysterious Godfather Drosselmeyer. Unique to NRDC’s Nutcracker is the addition of Tchaikovsky’s Silver Fairy Music from Sleeping Beauty, said Wanda Martin McGill, NRDC’s executive director. This allows the dance company’s youngest dancers, ages 5-8, to perform as porcelain dolls as part of the Christmas Eve party. The party scene also includes several adult cast members, who are typically parents of the dancers. “Each child is given a ‘character parent’ and they each create new family dynamics on stage,” McGill said. “There are 25 cast members on stage at any given time so the party is very full.” The majority of the adult cast members are working professionals who take time out of their busy schedules to participate, McGill said. Some of this year’s cast members include a local sheriff and his wife, a local speech therapist, an attorney, and at least two doctors, she said. The adults are usually required to attend rehearsals for one to two hours every Saturday starting in September. Jeanmarie Wolf, an adult cast member, will perform as Mother Ginger. Her scene is approximately three minutes long. Wolf describes it as “organized chaos.” “Mother Ginger is definitely a challenge because the costume is huge and cumbersome,” Wolf said. “It takes two to three helpers backstage to get me ready, but I love the role. I think of myself as more of ‘comic relief’ than a dancer in that costume.” The traditional Mother Ginger costume is

Submitted photo

so heavy that some productions traditionally cast a man for the role. The immense size of the costume makes for limited movement, and bending over is “not an option,” Wolf said. “I did have a year where I tripped on the hem of the skirt and almost went head first,” Wolf said. “This would have been quite a disaster as it would be like a beetle on its back that can’t get back up.” As Mother Ginger’s scene unfolds, it appears several “cookie” characters (played by ballet students as young as 7) are hiding under her immense skirt, but in reality, there is much more technique involved, Wolf explained. “The little ones wait in the wings and, as I swing the skirt backward, one of the cookies gets under, then I swing forward and the cookie pops out onto the stage. It is a great illusion when we get it right,” Wolf said. “I have had a few cookies get ‘stuck’ and we figure that out. Then we all dance together.” The scene also includes two “bad cookies” who refuse to get back under the skirt, and Mother Ginger bribes them with candy canes. “At the last second, I lift up the skirt and they disappear,” Wolf said. “It really is fun to watch.” Fall/Winter 2019

AUDITIONS AND REHEARSALS Auditions for The Nutcracker take place in May, the cast is notified in August, and rehearsals begin in September. While The Nutcracker is a Napa Regional Dance Company production, auditions are open to students from any dance school. Dancers with major soloist roles rehearse six days per week for about an hour or two each day. The younger dancers rehearse within their regular one-hour class time and then an additional hour to two hours on Saturdays, McGill said. “Since most of the solo roles are performed by our local high school students, we have to balance their academics along with the rehearsals,” McGill said. “They put in an average of 10 hours a week leading up to the performance. Far less than what is expected in a professional company but a wonderful introduction to the standard expectations for performance and artistic preparation.” Haley Miller, 16, has performed in The Nutcracker for 11 years. This year, she will have a starring role as the Sugar Plum Fairy. “I have been dreaming about this since I had my first Nutcracker at the age of five,” Miller said. As a soloist this year, Miller said the hours put into rehearsals are challenging but exciting. “The rehearsal process is demanding and you have to be really committed, but it is also really fun,” Miller said. The Thursday prior to the first live performance is a “tech rehearsal,” parent and backstage volunteer Shelley Webb Surh said. This is a chance to “iron out all the technical aspects” including lighting and sound, she said. Friday is the dress rehearsal with the live orchestra, which is “everyone’s chance to make any mistakes and get out any nervousness,” Surh said. “There is a saying that ‘bad dress rehearsal, great performance,’ which often rings true, so we try not to worry too much if something didn’t go as planned,” Surh said. The dress rehearsal, which takes place the night before the show, is “a little chaotic,” said parent Angie Ito, who also volunteers backstage. There’s nervous energy, and it’s a time to make mistakes and fix them, she said. “This is often the first time the dancers have the chance to dance in their costumes, with and around props, and onstage,” Ito said. “Backstage helpers are figuring out when and where to put things. It is truly an amazing experience to be part of that magic.” When the day of the show arrives, she said, everything falls into place. “After six-plus months rehearsing, it pays off and we get to experience a beautiful ballet,” Ito said. Fall/Winter 2019

LIKE WAITING FOR A ROCKET SHIP TO LAUNCH The first live performance of The Nutcracker takes place at 2 p.m. on a Saturday. Surh said there is an “electricity and excitement in the air” just before the dancers hit the stage. “When our stage manager, Ms. Erin Leedom, says ‘places everyone, five minutes to start,’ all backstage helpers and dancers are incredibly focused and excited,” Surh said. “You can hear a pin drop backstage, all the way to the basement dressing rooms. It’s like waiting for a rocket ship to launch.” Surh began working as a backstage helper to assist the little boys in the ballet. She’s now in charge of stage left. Angie Ito volunteers backstage to help check young dancers in and out of each performance. “Parents drop off their dancers, sometimes as young as 5 years old, and they are then within the studio’s care and responsibility for several hours,” Ito said. “It’s very important to keep the dancers safe. By checking the dancers in and out we know who is in the studio around the dancers and who and how to contact the parent/guardian if needed.” Ito said she’s taken on this responsibility for many years and “loves it.” “I feel confident telling parents their kids are going to be safe and it’s fun to share in their excitement for their performances,” Ito said. While backstage, Ito also helps the younger performers get into their costumes and add “one last bobby pin” for perfect hair. She’s also on hand to glue decorations onto props. “I love working backstage. We always have a meeting a month before the shows to go over roles and responsibilities. We talk about what worked last year, what didn’t work, and address potential issues and challenges,” Ito said. “We are a dedicated group and we are committed to doing what we can to help present an amazing show for our community.” Rob Bosworth has been assisting in The Nutcracker production for about 13 years. Initially, he began volunteering to help support his daughter, Halle, when she was a ballet student. Halle is now off to college, but Bosworth has stayed involved. “You get to see the joy and the confidence that the dancers have. And everyone wants to help them put on a good show,” Bosworth said. “For me, it reminds me of the time I spent with my daughter there.” Bosworth’s primary responsibility is to help with props. “The biggest thing is to get everything to

the theater… Then preparing it to go on stage, making sure all the lights work, everything works as it should,” Bosworth said. “After that, it’s just making sure you get everything on stage for each act.” One of The Nutcracker’s most iconic props is the “growing Christmas tree.” NRDC uses a “beautiful hand-painted tree,” which at first was too large for the stage and had inconsistent lighting, Bosworth said. “You know the old Christmas lights, where one goes out they all go out. Well, they just kept sticking more lights on it so it became a little bit of a nightmare,” Bosworth said. “I told Wanda (McGill) I was taking her beloved Christmas tree home and redoing it.” Bosworth cut it down to size and installed new LED lighting. “Looks and works great now,” he said. THE COSTUMES Wendi Moore became involved in ballet costume design when her son began performing in The Nutcracker at age 5. “It all started with a satin and velvet vest I created for him for the party scene, then I made more of the vests for other boys who joined the show,” Moore said. Moore, who learned to sew at 8 years old, explained that costume design comes with an extra set of challenges. A dancer’s jacket, for example, is different from a regular tailored jacket because a dancer needs to move with a full range of motion — like lifting their arms above their heads — without the jackets riding up, Moore said. “What I love most about designing ballet costumes is the problem-solving,” Moore said. “There are dozens of decisions that go into the construction of a costume that make it beautiful, while at the same time functional.” Sharon Wippern, who also creates costumes for The Nutcracker, said it takes about 24 to 72 hours to create each piece. “The tutu I am working on now required custom dye, and a rolled-hem finish on 10 layers of tulle,” Wippern said. “That tutu takes me about 28 to 30 hours.” Not all of the costumes have to be created from scratch each year. Many are reused but still need modifications. “There are some costumes that are 10 years old and some that I am just finishing this year,” Wippern said. “Sometimes the fabrics become brittle, or threadbare or stained. There are always last-minute adjustments, the dancers are working so hard that there are almost always little adjustments to make things a little snugger.” Please see Nutcracker, Page 111 INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 23

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Autumn in the vineyard L AY N E R A N D O L P H ‌There’s a palpable energy in wine country this time of year, as the wineries and winemakers consult with vineyard professionals to decide when is the ideal time to bring in grapes from the fields. Deciding on the right time to harvest the fruit requires taking many factors into consideration, and it’s the most important decision made in the vineyard. Grapes are at their peak for only a few days, and uncontrollable events, such as weather, can change plans in an instant. Vineyard workers and machinery must be ready at a moment’s notice, and when it’s time to go, it’s go-go-go. Because different parts of a vineyard can become ripe at different times due to sun exposure or grape variety, it’s common to have several passes through a vineyard during harvest. The typical Napa Valley visitor or local may never actually see anything resembling harvest activity, largely because vineyard staff is busy picking while the rest of the region is sleeping. Berries are gathered during the night or early morning while it’s cool enough that the grape maintains a stable sugar level until it arrives at the winery, and so that workers avoid picking for hours under the glaring sun. Many grapes are still harvested by machine, but hand picking is gentler on the grapes and allows harvest workers to leave out undesirable fruit. Wine producers usually harvest their best wines by hand, especially in areas where it’s difficult for machines to navigate. Machine harvesting is faster and less expensive — one reason why certain wines are priced higher than others. Harvest timing largely comes down to sugar content. White varieties are picked before red varieties, to retain desired acidity, and grapes for dessert wines are harvested last for desired sweetness. The longer the berry remains on the vine, the riper and sweeter it becomes. Desired sugar levels 26 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Layne Randolph‌photos

vary pending on the variety and style of the wine, but one thing to keep in mind is that level of sweetness translates to strength, and the higher the sugar content, the higher the alcohol content in the wine. There are some general guidelines for harvest timing. At the end of summer, when the grapes began turning color and ripening (veraison), the clock began ticking. Around 30 to 70 days from veraison, grapes first begin to be tested by taste, sight, and smell, until it was deemed time for the more scientific method of testing sugar content, known as brix. Determining the best brix level is one of the most critical choices in the grape growing and winemaking process. Once picked, the harvested fruit is delivered to the winery as quickly as possible.

Different varieties get different treatment upon arrival. Red varieties may be lightly crushed but are then fermented with the skins, while grapes destined for whites and rosés spend little to no time with their skins. All fruit ends in a fermentation vessel for a period, after which it may or not age, depending on the wine. Now that the fruit has been brought inside and has begun its journey into becoming wine, it’s time for the vineyards and the vineyard teams to take a break, before the next season begins. Fall/Winter 2019

LIVING THE LIFE

I’d

like to

complain

Colin MacPhail‌

C O L I N M AC P H A I L ‌D o you complain? I do sometimes. Self-righteous laptop complaining from a digital distance can be very satisfying. Complaining to Verizon Wireless by telephone recently was easy. “Steve” was repentant on behalf of the company; he was in a call center in Puerto Rico and I suspect his name wasn’t really “Steve.” Complaining to someone in person, eye-to-eye, is more difficult and can go either way. Some cultures are better at it than others. In a wee pub in Cawdor, Scotland, I watched my Highland father-in-law silently and without comment, move a hunk of gravel in his stew to the side of his mashed potatoes. He did not say a word when they cleared his plate. Early in my American life, I was working for Margaux in her wine shop in Calistoga. There, I experienced my first free-form complaining. I had phoned a New York couple about their wine Fall/Winter 2019

shipment and they literally passed the phone back and forth, taking turns to yell at me with vigor. It was a bizarre experience to hear complaining from people who did it just like they drew breath. If not too common, a complaint can be invigorating. I really like them. It’s a challenge to resolve and an opportunity to learn something valuable about your business. Almost always, a complaint is, at its root, a bruised ego, or sense of being wronged. The misplaced appointment is not about them, it’s about how they will look in front of their invited friends. They don’t want our excuses; they want to know how you are going to save face for them. This doesn’t mean rolling over, it means showing them an avenue out of the bull ring, so that you don’t have to be a matador about it. When I was a winery general manager, we had a lady who called in irate about our service

and she was passed through to me. Their host had “abandoned” them mid- tasting without explanation and she felt justifiably slighted. As I tried to placate her, she paused and said, “Are there any other Scottish people working there?” I said “No.” “You’re the one we are complaining about then…” That was awkward, but we worked it out. When I was at the BBC, we would get these wonderful complaint letters about the historical accuracy in our television period dramas. The clock on the mantelpiece in the back of the drawing room shot was made by Griffen & Hodges in 1884. The viewer was “most disturbed” that the series takes place in 1883. Therefore, the clock could not have existed. “Please could you show more concern for accuracy in your programming.” My favorite complaint scenario of all time was from BBC Radio Scotland. My friend Ron Spencer was a producer for a live morning radio request program

broadcasting out of Glasgow on a Sunday morning. The presenter was a former Glasgow bus driver-turned-comedian called Andy Cameron. The program was syrupy sweet at times. Children would phone in with a request to play something for their Gran and Grandpa, or their “Maw’s birthday” and so on. First, they had to tell Andy Cameron a joke, which was usually of the “Why did the chicken cross the road” variety. The average listener of this popular program was about 72 and there was not much you could complain about, you would think. This was until one Sunday morning when wee Jimmy “fae Govan” called in with a request “Fur ma Auntie.” Andy dutifully asked him for his joke first. Jimmy asked Andy, “What vegetable is it that makes your eyes water?” Andy said, “I dunno son, is it onions?” “No, Andy, it’s no onions,” said Jimmy. At that Andy was a bit stumped on how to keep the material going. “Whit about chives Jimmy, is it chives?” Jimmy clearly had no idea what chives were. “Nuh, it’s no’ them.” Govan was not known as a haven for a salad consuming culture. “Ah give up Jimmy. What vegetable is it makes your eyes water?” “It’s turnip” said Jimmy. Mr. Cameron felt sorry for the boy, being well aware of his likely upbringing without greens. He gently said, “I’m sorry son, but turnips don’t make your eyes water.” To this Jimmy replied, “If you get smacked in the balls wi’ a turnip, they do!” The switchboard lit up with irate Scottish grannies complaining from Aberdeen to Gretna Green. Mr. Spencer had not checked the joke beforehand. As he told it to me, the complaints were so numerous that he got hauled over the coals by the BBC and nearly fired. INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 27

Terrific Shopping Awaits!

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• Enjoy an old-time holiday gift faire! • 90+ exhibitors

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santashelpersnapa.com Free parking, free admission!

Fall/Winter 2019

INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 29

OTTOMAN ART ORIENTAL RUG & HOME DECOR STORE

• Handmade Oriental Rugs and Kilims • Iznik Turkish Ceramics • Jewelry, Shoes and Bags • Rug Cleaning and Repair • Handmade Lamps and Fixtures Free Pickup and Delivery

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Fall/Winter 2019

INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 31

We at Alan’s Saint Helena wish all of you the happiest of the Holiday Season. We are here to help offering the following services: • Custom Picture Framing • All photography services including: • Printing • Scanning • Photo Restoration • Enlargement • Photo Frames • Photo Albums

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Garaventa’s Florist

Weddings

All arrangements are custom designed To your individual taste by professional floral designers

Events

Serving the Napa Valley since 1970

851 Lincoln Avenue • Napa • 707-255-8878 • www.weddingsbygaraventas.com 32 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Fall/Winter 2019

Holiday Storewide Sale! expires 12/24/2019

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Stay Warm this Holiday Season with a insert!

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Serving the Napa Valley for over 27 Years! 36 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Fall/Winter 2019

Holidays in Yountville November 24, 2019 through January 1, 2020

Visit www.yountville.com for a full list of events

HOLIDAY LIGHT TOUR December 23 - January 10 Full Week & Drop In Options

December 15 6:30 - 9:30 PM

Grades K - 5

Luxury Bus Transportation to see holiday light displays. Hot chocolate, goodies and caroling included! All Ages Welcome!

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Fall/Winter 2019

INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 37

GREAT ESTATES

treasure A

in the heart of

Rutherford VA L E R I E OW E N S

In the heart of the Rutherford appellation lies a luxurious landmark estate nestled amongst the vineyards. Located at 900 Rutherford Road, the property unveils architectural genius through European detail and conceptual design. Inspired by childhood memories, the 4.25acre property features a main residence, children’s wing with a sleeping porch,

entertaining rooms, a guest house and caretaker’s quarters. An entertainer’s paradise, the property captures the grandeur of the Napa Valley. “The estate is absolutely stunning,” said KC Garett of Coldwell Banker Brokers of the Valley, who has the listing along with Dulcy Freeman of Sotheby’s International Realty. “It is

grand, elegant and timeless. It truly is one of the most special properties in the Napa Valley.” Designed by Sandy Walker (designer of the Auberge du Soleil Resort), the estate boasts a 8,814 square-foot primary residence, 1,243 square-foot guest quarters and

Bernard Andre photos

38 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

WINTER SPRING 2019

1,201 square-foot caretaker’s cottage. The main house is built around Limestone fireplace imported from France. The home was built in 1989, but was remodeled extensively in 200506. The kitchen was redone in 2018. Surrounded by iconic Napa Valley Vineyards, the property is a perfect place to relax and rejuvenate. Additional amenities include reflection ponds, an exquisite vegetable garden and orchard, bocce court, play structures, tennis court, enclosed patios, and a remarkable grand pool. “I think the property is so unique because it is a compound and was originally built for multiple families,” said co-owner Katie MacDonnell. “It truly is a wonderful place for entertaining. The home was inspired by a magical place that my (in-laws) experienced growing up. It really is a nice gathering place for family and celebrations.” ‘Elegant’ and ‘luxurious’ capture the essence behind 900 Rutherford Road. Designed to be the ideal gathering spot for friends and family, the grand estate is a perfect place to call home.

Fall/Winter 2019

INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 39

GRAND KITCHEN EVENT

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Rock the holidays! R s! at Napa Music supply we have everything you need for the musician. Whether you are a beginner to the seasoned professional. m essional. We have a large selection of Guitars, Basses, acoustic Guitars, amplifiers and more! We are locally owned and operated providing the Best customer service and top quality gear. layaWay available Just in time for the holidays! Gift cards available! Bring this ad in for

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INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 41

WHAT IS YOUR VISION FOR 2020? Call for your FREE LASIK consult today! ST. HELENA • AMERICAN CANYON • NAPA

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44 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Reservations are highly recommended.

FALL WINTER 2019

GETTING TO KNOW YOU

Napa Valley Community Foundation President Terence Mulligan Best vacation ever? Southern France with my French wife, Stephanie. She was expecting our first child at the time. I called it the “farewell to victory tour,” knowing it would be a while before we could travel abroad like that again. So what’s wrong with cucumbers? I can’t stand the way they taste, which is weird because most people find them watery and innocuous. You know spa water, with the slices of cucumber floating around in it? That actually makes me anxious. How do you relax? I play the piano when nobody is around. Favorite music to listen to? Soul, R&B and funk music from the mid-1960s to the mid-1970s. James Brown, Curtis Mayfield, The Isley Brothers, Al Green, Sly and the Family Stone, Stevie Wonder and so on. Favorite catch phrase? “I’m on it like a cheap suit.” Not sure where it comes from, but I like the mix of urgency, on the one hand, and a blue collar sensibility, on the other. Cats or dogs? Yes to both, though my fondness for cats is a conversion story that involves my adorable daughter and an illfated trip to the pet store. Pet peeve? People whose ego-to-results ratio is greater than one. The leaders I most admire always deliver the goods, and rarely feel the need to remind you how talented they are. Last movie you saw? “Once Upon a Time in Hollywood.” I think Leo DiCaprio’s 1965 Cadillac should be short-listed for best supporting actor. Why philanthropy? Philanthropy is a powerful way to solve problems, and there’s lots of room for creativity and risk-taking. Best thing about Napa County? The strong sense of community. People lend a hand to their neighbors, and get involved to make a positive difference where they can.

Sean Scully, Inside Napa Valley

Where

in the Valley? â&#x20AC;&#x152; ow keen is your eye for Napa landmarks? H Our photographers travel a lot of miles in pursuit of images, and along the way weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve taken some shots of interesting, quirky, and unusual objects, many of them in plain sight from major roads. But it can be surprisingly hard to identify these places when you zoom in just on the details, even if you pass by the spots every day. How many of these Napa County places can you identify? Answers are on Page 95.

Fall/Winter 2019

INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 47

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tunes 45 A single time

11/9

ACROSS 1 Livestock hazard 9 Lure into crime 15 Snake that can weigh more than 550 pounds 16 Shrinks in fear 17 One with a growth mindset? 18 Total stud 19 Chicago airport code 20 Comes in 22 Parlor pic 23 “My Gal ___” (Rita Hayworth musical) 24 Word before “Kapital” or “Boot” 25 Irritable sort 27 “Holy smokes!” 29 Wave crest 33 A student’s blemish 34 “Scat, cat!” 50 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

12 $35, for Park Place

Spilled Milk by Ross Trudeau

35 ___ assembly required 36 Reason to roll out a tarp 37 Control a bumper car 38 Annoying person 39 Visibly excited 40 Look after 41 Volkswagen model 42 Long workday, say 44 You may adjust its tuners for tunes 45 A single time 46 Clump of gum, e.g. 47 Mom-and-___ 49 Score 100% on 52 Frowny faces 54 Gaza grp. 55 Black sheep’s cry, in rhyme

57 Call with a programmed number 60 Matriculate 61 Completely absorbed by, as a good book 62 Structural support over an opening 63 Devices that draw or inject DOWN 1 Nigeria’s largest city 2 Raging violently 3 *He sought courage in Oz 4 Repetitive condition, briefly 5 “___ is me!” 6 Group of nine 7 Perfect places 8 It might hit the bull’s-eye 9 *Hands-on environmental

activist 10 Acknowledges silently 11 Only number that can be typed with a keyboard’s top row 12 $35, for Park Place 13 Diva’s chance to shine 14 (Over here!) 21 Came back through a tunnel, perhaps 24 Afro and dreads 26 Outdid 28 Rarin’ to go 29 “___ a good time for you?” 30 Largely apocryphal rural pastime demonstrated in each starred answer? 31 “Did they leave without me?” 32 Org. that helped publicize “Consider the Lobster” 33 Spoiled sort

34 Boom box, e.g. 37 *Textured home surface 41 Quick punch 43 At a reduced cost 44 Team list 46 Viscous and sticky 48 Certain shirts 49 Cain’s brother 50 “Pretty please?” 51 Work hard for 53 Clumps of gum 56 CAPTCHA failer (hopefully) 58 Maker of Orange You a Rock Star? nail polish 59 Uproar Answers on Page 95 Fall/Winter 2019

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INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 51

Explore the Extraordinary The Estate Yountville invites guests to a grand exploration – a village within a village, the centerpiece of Yountville. Michelin-starred restaurants, award-winning tasting rooms, worldclass art, and incredible natural surroundings are all within walking distance. Two hotels anchor its in-town grounds—one glamorous and social and one a stylish and serene haven—both with a shared pulse, dialed into Napa Valley.

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Pes

ton

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56 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

WINTER SPRING 2019

Give The Gift of Peju Wine This Holiday Season This holiday season send your friends and family gifts of distinction from the Peju Gift Collection. Our award-winning wines are sourced from grapes grown on five of our family-owned Napa Valley vineyard properties and our shipments are delivered to your door within five business days. From our elegant Stained Glass Collection to our very popular sampler sets we have gifts for everyone on your gift list.

Stained Glass Series (5-Wines) Set Price $490

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Lunch served 11 am – 4 pm • Dinner served 4 pm – 10 pm

Dušan Zidar, Dreamstime.com‌

icon The valley’s other

Olive oils reveal the buttery, spicy side of Napa

‌R

ich, aromatic olive oils are produced throughout Napa County, most pressed from the fruit of trees planted by Italian immigrants in the 1800s. Local residents can find Napa olive oils online and at a number of local stores and wineries. Each taste is a reminder of that olives are part of the valley’s agricultural past. Only a few olive oils are available to the public. Many oils are only available to winery or private club members. Estate-grown olive oils are produced by Aurajo Estate Wines in Calistoga, Pine Ridge Vineyard in Napa, Longmeadow Ranch Winery in St. 60 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Luis2007, Dreamstime.com‌

JESSICA ZIMMER Helena, and Round Pond Estate and Rutherford Hill Winery, both in Rutherford. Other oils are grown on land where there are no vineyards, including the ranches of Napa Valley Olive Oil Company and Grove 45 Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO), both in St. Helena. Grove 45, located at the ranch of co-owner Bonnie Storm, shows it takes an experienced hand to create a premium product. Storm imported her trees from Italy in 1994. “I had a love affair with Italy, so I brought these trees to Napa. We grow the four types of olives from which you make a Tuscan blend, Tuscany, Frantoio,

Pendolino, Leccino, and Moraiolo. We also grow Nocellara del Belice olives from Sicily,” said Grove 45 co-owner Nena Talcott. Talcott said when the Tuscan olives are blended together, they produce an oil with a medium to robust flavor. This oil has a lot of fruit in the front of the mouth. “The Tuscan blend has that bitterness, that heat in the back of the taste. It has a peppery, artichoke-like, fresh green olive aroma. It can be very bold,” said Talcott. Storm said she strives to create olive oil with a “certain bitterness.” “You need to balance the percentage of ripe to unripe olives, with about 60 percent ripe, purple to black, to about 40 percent Fall/Winter 2019

green. The green olives give the oil a more robust flavor. You have to get the ratio right because you can’t manipulate the taste. Every year, you pray for consistency in your flavor,” said Storm. At Darioush Winery in Napa, certified olive oil sensory evaluation expert Orietta Gianjorio leads groups in sensory sessions of olive oil for quality standards and pairing. The olive oil that Gianjorio pairs with food and wine comes from a collaboration between Darioush Kaledi, the owner of the winery, and an olive orchard north of Sacramento. Gianjorio also helps olive oil growers throughout Napa Valley, including Mark Griffin, blend olive oil. “Mark grows the olives from which you create a Tuscan blend, which are Moraiolo, Maurino, Leccino, and Pendoliono,” said Gianjorio. Gianjorio’s and Talcott’s statements show a Tuscan blend can be created from a variety of Tuscan olives. Gianjorio said the high-quality trees in the Napa Valley make an outstanding olive oil. “The oil (Mark creates) has an intense and persistent aroma. It’s grassy with notes of artichoke. (It has) a mild bitterness and a long-lasting spiciness that makes it memorable,” said Gianjorio. In 2019, California olive oil producers are expected to make about 4 million gallons of olive oil. This is far more than last year’s 1.6 to 1.8 million gallons. “This year, the oil should be excellent,” said Gianjorio. Lars Kronmark, professor of culinary arts at the Culinary Institute of America’s Greystone campus in St. Helena, said he thinks the flavor of Napa Valley Olive Oil Company’s products is usually outstanding. “It’s very green, with a grassy, green apple flavor. It has a powerful, thick consistency. It’s incredibly viscous,” said Kronmark. Kronmark recommends adding high-quality olive oils in drizzles so they “float” on top of hummus, bean, and vegetable dishes. “The taste of some local olive oils is so strong you can’t make aioli or mayonnaise with them. You may even need to cut the stronger oil down with a bit of neutral oil. But these local oils are super tasty,” said Kronmark. Teresa Hernando, general manager of The Olive Press in Sonoma, said extra virgin olive oils made from Sonoma County fruit can be found at The Olive Press store in the Oxbow Market in Napa. Fall/Winter 2019

Submitted photos‌

Orietta Gianjorio, a certified olive oil sensory evaluation expert at Darioush Winery.

Customers who know a local olive grower may be able to get olive oil from Napa fruit or a mixture of Napa and Sonoma fruit. “There are between 8 and 10 olive growers throughout Napa Valley that we press for individually. In addition, some people who have olive trees on their property bring their olives to be added on the community press day for Napa and Sonoma growers. The Napa-Sonoma community press takes place twice a year, at the end of October and the end of November,” said Hernando. Hernando said the typical olives she sees delivered to the community press are Italian blend olives, very aromatic and robust olives. These include the Leccino, Frantoio, Caratina, and Pendolino varieties. “We usually mill between 7 and 10 tons of olive oil on a work day. Growers pay 85 cents a pound for the oil. They usually buy an amount proportionate to the weight of olives they bring,” said Hernando. The taste of the extra virgin olive oil varies every year depending on the weather during the olive’s growing season and the types of varietals that are pressed. Hernando said community press oil is not sold to the public. “(The Olive Press’s store in Oxbow Market) sells extra virgin olive oil (made from olives) grown on our estate in Sonoma and contracted orchards in California. Our oils have a variety of flavors. Some are fruity, while others taste like a green leaf, almost like that of a tomato plant. I enjoy Koroneiki extra virgin olive oil. It has the sweetness and a hint of green almonds. More robust olive oils taste like artichokes and pepper. The delicate oils are soft and

creamy, like butter, with a hint of pepper on the finish,” said Hernando. Hernando recommends adding extra virgin olive oil to any meal or dessert. “Drizzle it on top of ice cream with a bit of sea salt. The flavors are amazing,” said Hernando. Paolo Colavita, vice president of California operations for Colavita Olive Oil, said the company recognizes Napa Valley’s history of olive oil production. This is one of the reasons the company chooses to showcase its olive oils at two local Culinar y Institute of America (CIA) centers, Copia in Napa and Greystone in St. Helena. Colavita said the Napa Valley has some potential to grow olive trees to make olive oil. “It already does so to a certain limited degree, but land is more expensive than in other areas. That makes it unappealing for larger growth. We also see a slightly lower average yield per square foot than in other areas, such as the stretch between Sacramento and Chico,” said Colavita. The company is still interested in having a presence in Napa. “Colavita is on the lookout for possible investments on the agricultural and farm side all over California, which includes Napa and Sonoma counties. But since (Napa) is a distance from our brand-new plant and distribution center in Dixon, as well as major olive tree orchard areas, it’s not that likely to happen,” said Colavita. Colavita said even if California represents only one percent of the world production of olive oil, the state still has a big potential for growth in its selection of extra virgin olive oils. “Napa Valley offers an opportunity to build something stable and solid in terms of image and appeal. It’s a brand recognized all over the world and has done an incredible job advertising and promoting the region. That’s something the Italian olive oil industry and government definitely need to take notes on,” said Colavita. INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 61

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Texas BBQ Dickey’s Barbecue Pit opens in River Park shopping center K I R K K I R K PAT R I C K bu siness@na pa new s . com‌

Jennifer Huffman, Register‌

Rene’ (pictured here) and Gwen Bassett have opened Dickey’s Barbecue Pit in the River Park ‌ hanks to Rene’ and Gwen Bassett, there’s “which has more to do with the rubs and sea- shopping center in south Napa. T

a new player on Napa’s barbecue scene: Dickey’s Barbecue Pit in the River Park shopping center. Dickey’s, a large barbecue chain, is headquartered in Dallas, Texas and began operations in 1941. “My wife and I were on a trip to Visalia not long ago and stopped in the Dickey’s there for dinner,” Bassett said recently. ”After enjoying their barbecue, we both agreed this is just what Napa needs. “When we returned from our trip, I get a phone call from Dickey’s corporate asking if I had requested information. Gwen, who didn’t tell me she was going to do so, had contact Dickey’s and the next thing I know we’re signing contracts,” Bassett chuckled. There are various types of ribs that are popular in different parts of the country. “Dickey’s serves St. Louis-style pork ribs,” Bassett said,

sonings that are used in its preparation.” Bassett said ribs are his top seller so far, followed closely by beef brisket. Dickey’s also serves smoked chicken, smoked turkey, pulled pork, polish kielbasa sausage and spicy jalapeno cheddar kielbasa. All the meats are pit-smoked daily on site. Guests have three types of sauce to choose from: original, sweet and spicy. Side dishes include barbecue beans, cabbage slaw, potato salad, baked potato casserole, Caesar salad, mac & cheese, creamed spinach, jalapeno beans and green beans. Other favorites found at Dickey’s includes the famous Texas Frito Pie Stack, the brisket mac stack, chicken and cheese tacos as well as brisket and cheese tacos. There’s also a kids’ plate option. “We’re getting a lot of walk-in business,”

said Bassett. “But there are still a lot of people who don’t know we’re here. We’ve been walking the neighborhoods handing out ‘Be My Guest’ cards to get people to come and try us.” Bassett was excited to mention that Dickey’s will now also be sold at Napa Silverados games. Catering is a big thing in Napa and Dickey’s has already stuck its toe in the water with a big 500-person event at the the Veterans Home of California in Yountville. Both Bassett and his wife are veterans. So is his oldest daughter, Danielle Bassett, who also works at the restaurant. “For our larger events we set it up buffet style and have someone there slicing the meat for you,” Bassett said. The restaurant is open daily from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. at 1335 W. Imola Ave.

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INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 67

experience

Crafting the

Wineries offer guests usual events, activities to accentuate the wine brand JESSICA ZIMMER

Submitted photos

A wine and food pairing at Shadybrook Estate. BELOW: The Darioush wine experience blends traditional Persian decor with Napa wines.

Napa Valley wineries have mastered the art of designing visitor experiences to match their wines and brands. The range of activities visitors can enjoy at local wineries goes well beyond pickup parties and tours to include horseback riding, blending your own bottle, and ethnic celebrations. Élan Fayard, co-owner of Napa-based Azur Wines, who is also a consultant for Élan Fayard Consulting, a winery consulting business, said she designed Azur’s tasting room to include a view of the winery’s production facility. “The winery is in an urban area off North Kelly Road in Napa. We call our tasting room ‘The Green Room.’ It has an expansive glass wall that looks onto our production cellar. The furniture includes a green velvet couch, a nice reclaimed wood bar, and a living wall of ferns and succulents. It’s got a very relaxed lounge feel, with low lighting,” said Fayard. Fayard says Azur’s tasting room reminds guests of a speakeasy. “People don’t get to see hands-on winemaking often. In The Green Room, you see something new happening every day to produce quality wines. It is truly a unique experience for those seeking a view behind the scenes,” said Fayard. Fayard said the best visitor experiences are those that are authentic and over-deliver. “I’ve found from working as a consultant for a variety of Napa Valley wineries that sales will falter if the experience doesn’t match. The only instance where a mismatch benefits the winery is if you have a really fancy interior and inexpensive wines,” said Fayard. FROM TRAIL RIDES TO PERSIAN CULTURE Rudy Zuidema, winemaker at Shadybrook Estate Winery at the Rapp Ranch, located in Napa, said Shadybrook Estate has created a rustic, adventure-oriented experience for its guests with horseback riding. “We purchased Rapp Ranch in 2016. We began offering trail riding on American quarter horses in 2017. Guests love it. The barn staff put everyone at ease with these beautiful animals. There are so few working ranches left that it’s hard to find an experience like this in Napa Valley,” said Zuidema. Zuidema said riding options include a half hour or 50 minutes. Guests have the option to explore the property’s vineyards and oak groves on both rides. “We also offer corporate team-building exercises in

68 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Fall/Winter 2019

the arena where the horses kick around inflatable soccer balls as big as a table. We play a version of ‘Musical Chairs’ using horses. Riders don’t get off the horse, but have to get their horse to secure a position in the arena before the other riders do,” said Zuidema. Zuidema said horseback riding bridges the theme of the property to the Rapp Ranch wines. “We create two brands of wine, Rapp Ranch wines, which are more approachable, and Shadybrook wines, which are more refined and sophisticated,” said Zuidema. Architecture and décor can also be excellent tools to help guests understand a winery’s approach. Darioush Winery in Napa welcomes guests with impressive stone pillars, reflecting pools, and flower gardens outside. There are Persian-style statues and architecture in the tasting room. “Ancient Persia was known as one of the birthplaces of winemaking. Proprietors Darioush and Shahpar Khaledi are proud to share not only the unique architecture, inspired by the capital city of Persepolis, but...the beautiful art, history, and culture of their native land. (One) small example (is) in our tasting room, (guests) will find Persian-roasted pistachios served at our tasting bar. (These) are a long-standing symbol of hospitality,” said Marc Moynier, director of hospitality for Darioush Winery. Moynier said the wine at Darioush “is all about balance.” “We make bold yet distinctive Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from our southern Napa estate vineyards. Many of our guests are experienced collectors. As such, our hospitality team is comprised of many highly educated hospitality professionals. We have several advanced and certified sommeliers. The majority of our team has earned at least a (Wine & Spirit Education Trust) Level 2 certificate,” said Moynier. Moynier said Darioush treasures teaching visitors more about pairing by offering different tastings, including wine and cheese Fall/Winter 2019

pairings and sensory experiences with olive oil. “We enjoy offering unique, elevated wine experiences to cater to the many diverse and unique interests of our guests,” said Moynier. TEACHABLE MOMENTS, PARTIES, AND OPEN DOORS Tracey Hoff, director of retail at Conn Creek Winery in St. Helena, said Conn Creek makes its guests feel at home by welcoming them to blend their own bottle of wine. “Our ‘Barrel Blending Experience’ takes place in the AVA Room, which was remodeled in November of 2018. The guests taste through six AVA Cabernet Sauvignons and four Bordeaux varietals. Their host guides them through the tasting with an overview of Napa Valley and an introduction to blending. Guests like the comradery and competition, as well as the opportunity to learn more about Napa Valley,” said Hoff. Elizabeth DeLouise-Gant, winemaker for Conn Creek, said the barrel blending experience is similar to how she approaches blending sessions. “Everyone gets a pipette and a graduated cylinder, similar to what I use. Before they make the full blend, they make a small mock blend. Guests get to choose AVA wines from the Stags Leap District, Oakville, Rutherford, Chiles Valley, and Atlas Peak. We have them taste one Napa Valley Cabernet against all the different AVAs. (This helps them) taste the difference and uniqueness of each (wine),” said DeLouise-Gant. DeLouise-Gant said the idea for the ‘Barrel Blending Experience’ came from Mike McGrath, the former winemaker at Conn Creek. “He brought this idea to Conn Creek after his visit to France in the 1990s. The ‘Barrel Blending Experience’ is very popular for educational purposes, team-building events, and celebrations,” said DeLouise-Gant. Full-blown parties are another good way to share a winery’s offerings.

Nicholas Berube, director of hospitality and marketing at Grgich Hills Estate in Rutherford, said Grgich welcomes guests with a wide variety of celebrations, including its Annual Blessing of the Grapes in August, its daily grape stomp that runs August through October, and its Fourth of July party for wine club members. “We love bringing people together and have a lot of practice at it. One of our biggest events is our Croatian Extravaganza, which takes place in early July. We usually have 300 to 400 guests for this event. We invite folk dancers who perform in traditional Croatian costumes, sing both the U.S. and Croatian national anthems, and serve Croatian dishes, including roasted lamb,” said Berube. Berube said Grgich targets guests that look for “affordable luxury.” “Our events and even visits

to our winery are an immersive experience. Our hospitality staff take visitors into our gardens and vineyards. (There) they’ll see owl boxes and beehives, which are important elements of our organic farming practices. They get an understanding of why we value organic farming. In our American Canyon vineyard, chickens and Guinea fowl roam freely. During events, they come to the tables where our guests are seated,” said Berube. Berube said one of the most important aspects of a visit to Grgich’s tasting room along Highway 29 is the winery does not require reservations for bar tastings. “People can stop in anytime. We don’t want to be exclusive. We often hear how friendly we are. People are impressed with the fact that they can join us with their friends and taste great wine without pretension,” said Berube.

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world away from Pauillac A team from Bordeaux went in search of vineyards in Napa and found Mount Veeder

‌W

hen Thomas Comme moved to Napa Valley from his hometown of Pauillac, France, in early 2016, he had never been behind the wheel of an ATV. To the young winemaker from that famous — and quite flat — Bordeaux wine town, the concept of driving nearly sideways through a mountain vineyard would have seemed as foreign as drinking Zinfandel or watching a baseball game. Today, Comme is the estate manager at Pym-Rae, a 20-acre property in Napa Valley’s 78 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

TO N Y P O E R farthest corner of Mount Veeder. After a couple years’ practice, he can handle a 45-degree slope in his Honda ATV with confidence. It’s a useful skill for a guy whose life is a full 180 degrees removed from anything he’s done before in the wine business. Comme, 29, arrived in Napa three and a half years ago to manage Pym-Rae, the large home and viticultural estate near the top of the Mount Veeder AVA that was owned by the late comedian/actor Robin Williams. Comme’s employer is Alfred Tesseron, a successful Cognac merchant and proprietor of the highly regarded Château Pontet-Canet

in Pauillac. He purchased Pym-Rae from Williams’ family in late 2015. Back in Bordeaux’s Médoc region, where Pauillac is located, Pontet-Canet sits across the road from one of the world’s most famous wineries, Mouton-Rothschild. The equally renowned Château Latour is just a few kilometers away down D2, the “Route des Châteaux.” Tesseron’s Napa property is a bit more remote. At the end of Wall Road on Mount Veeder, Pym-Rae skirts the edge of Sugarloaf Ridge State Park and straddles the NapaSonoma County line, but the place is miles Fall/Winter 2019

from the closest winery. The far-flung estate that Comme, his wife, Samantha, and their young daughter call home is Napa Valley’s equivalent of being on the moon. It is a world away from Pauillac. Comme’s father, Jean-Michel, has been Pontet-Canet’s winemaker since 1989. Both in France and internationally, he is known as a forceful practitioner of dry farming and biodynamic viticulture. While Jean-Michel Comme has had a clear influence on his son’s approach to grapegrowing and winemaking, it came close to never happening in California. In the summer of 2015, Jean-Michel and Thomas Comme were at the end of their California rope. With Tesseron’s backing, the father and son were looking for a Napa Valley property to purchase and develop according to their own biodynamic standards, but after five years had come up empty. “We visited a lot of properties in the valley,” the younger Comme said on a sunny July morning, standing on an east-facing balcony of the main house at Pym-Rae, a spectacular Mediterranean home that could easily fall into the château category. The business school graduate speaks accented, but perfect, English. “We were looking for something specific. We had something very specific in mind. We wanted actual soils and an already established vineyard that could handle the dry farming.” In contrast to the topography of Pauillac, Comme and his father had mountain vineyards in mind when researching the AVAs of Napa Valley. “Being from France, it took us a long time and a lot of studies to realize where we wanted to go,” he said. The property search included looking at “pretty much every Napa AVA that has mountain vineyards, and after more research we realized that it was only Mount Veeder that can match what we wanted.” What they wanted was no small ask of Mother Nature: to locate a Cabernet-friendly vineyard in the Mount Veeder AVA with deeper soil than the ubiquitous red, volcanic type spread across many of Napa Valley’s elevated sites. By the Commes’ reckoning, such “hot” soil would prevent them from producing a Cabernet Sauvignon of depth and finesse. Frustrated but sticking by their own strict conditions, they caught a lucky break when their Napa property agent emailed them in France to tell them about Pym-Rae coming up for sale. “We looked online, and it was just a massive property with a massive house,” Comme Fall/Winter 2019

Tony Poer photo

The inaugural 2016 Pym-Rae Cabernet Sauvignon will be released in the U.S. and abroad this fall.

Tony Poer photo

Thomas Comme in the Pym Rae vineyards.

said, motioning out over the infinity pool. “It was not what we wanted, really. But we learned the story, and it was Robin Williams’ estate. And so we’re like, ‘OK. We’re going to go check it out, because it sounds like a beautiful place.’” For all the beauty of the Pym-Rae site itself, both natural and architectural, the real draw for the Commes was the flavor of the

Cabernet and Merlot already growing in the vineyard. Block-by-block over 20 steep acres, Thomas and his father did a methodical survey of the property in late August of 2015. From there, it was an easy decision. “We walked every single row, and [the fruit] from this place was something we’d never tasted,” he recalled, “even though the farming was different, and everything was done differently than how we do it now. The profile of the fruit was just something different from anywhere else in the valley.” He credited Pym-Rae’s soil, which he described as “this little pocket of Mount Veeder, where we have sedimentary soils. So we have a different bedrock from the rest of the valley.” They got on the phone immediately to Alfred Tesseron, who, according to Comme, “came over and fell in love with the place. And so that was the beginning of our journey” in 2015. Conveniently, the 2015 harvest was the last at Pym-Rae in which grapes were sold to other Napa wineries, as had been the case since the vineyard was planted in 1990. A friend of Comme’s, Frog’s Leap Winery Vice President Jonah Beer, was one of those last clients. For their own boutique project, Pilcrow Wine, Beer and his wife, Sara, made their first two vintages of Cabernet Sauvignon from a few vine rows near the top of Pym-Rae, purchased from the previous owners. The couple are also friends with the elder Comme and have visited him at Pontet-Canet on numerous occasions. “Jean-Michel has described to me a tension and a severity in fine wines that come when they have to be a little bit closer to the edge of ‘could have been tragic/could be glorious,’” Jonah Beer said recently. “And in the mountains for them here was a chance to kind of get to a little more severity. Not quite the plush and lush opulence of the valley floor.” To the Frog’s Leap veteran, the pull of difficult mountain viticulture for the Commes made sense because it paralleled “the severity of how you have to farm in Bordeaux with the challenges of rain and hail and weather and Mother Nature quite not working with you as easily as here.” Under his father’s direction, and from his own training and experience in Pauillac, Comme set about changing vineyard practices in early 2016. Biodynamic farming, such as that carried out at Pontet-Canet, was the main goal, with an eye towards making Please see Veeder , Page 80 INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 79

VEEDER From page 79

the best possible wine at Pym-Rae. “We took over in January ‘16, and the first thing we did was to convert everything to organic and biodynamic,” he said. “For 25 years, the vineyard was farmed conventionally, with everything you can imagine, the cover crops and irrigation and stuff. So that’s what we did. It doesn’t sound like a lot when you say it like that, but it requires a lot of work. It takes a long time for us to rebalance the vineyard and to bring it back to what we want to do with the vineyard.” The changes followed what his father was doing in Pauillac. But, having arrived in Napa Valley not knowing anyone, he had to figure out the transformation on his own. Comme hired a vineyard management company from Sonoma that specialized in organic farming. He eventually brought on a dependable crew of five vineyard workers. They remain with him to this day and have fallen in line with his philosophy. “What I’m trying to do here, I’m trying at every level. I want people to be able to answer the question of ‘why?’ Why everything. So it starts with the vineyard. Obviously, I want the guys in the vineyard to know why they’re doing what they’re doing.” “I hired them to teach and train them to be able to take some distance and understand why they’re doing it. So, for instance, when they’re pruning, everything has a meaning, and it’s really important for me that they understand that.” For the vines themselves, Comme started with a drastic change: he removed all of the irrigation lines and initiated 100% dry-farming to, as he put it, “push the roots deep down to where the freshness is and where the water is.” “Everything we need is deep down,” he said. “There is a freshness, there is the water, there is nutrients, and that’s part of the thing: when you irrigate the vines, they’ll make zero effort. And the roots will just stay at the surface, and they will just stay superficial. They’ll just wait for you to give them everything they need.” Leaving the balcony, Comme grabbed his keys and led the way through the house to his ATV parked in the shaded driveway. Along the way, he noted that Robin Williams combined the middle names of two of his children to name the estate. It might have ended up as “Tesseron Estate,” but his employer has adhered to a Bordeaux 80 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Thomas Comme walks through the Pym Rae vineyards.

tradition of keeping intact the original name of a vineyard property. Hence, Pym-Rae. His two rescue dogs, Iris and Pym — the name is a fantastic coincidence —followed behind at first. Pym soon jumped onto the Honda’s flatbed for a ride around the vineyard. Comme gave a bumpy tour of some paths and rows in the lower of the vineyard’s two large sections, passing a spring fed pond and a number of cows. In the first year of Tesseron’s ownership, he brought in 30 head of Black Angus. The animals graze up and down the property’s steep hillsides and help control erosion through the deep, water-trapping holes they leave with their heavy hooves. In Pauillac, his father is admired for the large draft horses he has introduced at Pontet-Canet to replace tractors. The low-impact use of farm animals is another parallel. “I’m very happy to have my son living and working [at Pym-Rae] and myself being involved in that wonderful project,” Jean-Michel Comme wrote in an email. “I discovered Napa more than 30 years ago as a young intern, and its spirit remained in me. So, I share my experience with Thomas, and he provides his passion, youthfulness and improving experience for the benefit of the final result. We have to learn from the place, be dedicated and humble.” Of the inaugural 2016 Pym-Rae Cabernet Sauvignon to be released in the U.S. and abroad this fall, the elder Comme wrote, “We have a pretty clear idea on the wine

Photo courtesy of Thomas Comme‌

we seek from Pym-Rea. A wine dense, ripe and fresh, combining freshness, depth and elegance and produced with ethics regarding earth preservation (biodynamic and dry farming), respect of the place and the people. We selected Pym-Rae to be fitted to those goals.” For a project of this size and scope, the sub-2000-case production is relatively tiny. When Comme pulled away from the vineyard rows to a picturesque spot with a long, clear view to the east, he was asked a question he will no doubt hear again: is there an eventual plan to grow Pym-Rae? He thought for a moment. “I mean, not right now honestly. It takes so much time to work with the vineyard to get to understand it. You set a goal, and then you reach that goal, and then you set another one. It’s kind of an endless process, you know, to work with the vineyard. Because the vineyard is growing old and evolving, but we as persons evolve too, and we change, and so it’s kind of an endless process.” “I don’t think we’ll be able to plan before the next generation,” he predicted, before firing up the ATV again. “It’s really not the plan. So right now we really want to focus — and this is the very important part — we want to focus on what we have and make it great. We have the potential; it’s a beautiful place, and it’s a beautiful vineyard. We have the potential to do something grand for this vineyard. And so we need to stay focused on what we have.” Fall/Winter 2019

FOOD TRUCKS OF THE NAPA VALLEY

Maria Sestito photos

Tacos Don Carlos --

HOME OF THE $1 TACO M A R I A S E S T I TO

What you’re eating: Tacos, tacos and more tacos – all made with fresh ingredients and available for only $1. But don’t let the price fool you, these tacos are bursting with flavor and, if you’re up for trying something a little more fiery, Tacos Don Carlos has a trendy and Instagram-worthy option for you. (Hint: It involves Flamin’ Hot Cheetos). That’s right, here you can get Flamin’ Cheeto Tacos with homemade fiery shells and topped with Cheetos, or a Flamin’ Cheeto Rito (burrito). Meat choices include steak, grilled chicken, chorizo, al pastor (pork), carne asada, and pollo asado. Gluten-free corn tortillas are also available and, according to the owners, pair well with a side of guacamole. Who’s making your food: Speaking of the owner, it is often Carlos himself who you will see inside the truck alongside either his wife, Maria, or one of his other family members. “I want to keep it a family business,” says Carlos Mata, who works six days a week to run the truck with his family. He is at the store every morning by 7 a.m. to buy supplies, opens the truck up by 11:30 and keeps at until they sell-out, usually about 9 p.m. “We cook to order – we’re constantly Fall/Winter 2019

cooking,” Mata says. Mata first started selling food from a taco cart a few years ago Friday and Saturday nights at Trower Avenue and Jefferson Street in Napa. He was serving between 60 and 80 people each night, but, he says, he didn’t know at the time he needed a permit. Unable to afford one at the time, he was forced to close. Mata, however, kept receiving messages from people about how much they loved and missed his food. “Two years later,” he says, “people were still calling me ‘We miss your tacos.’” When Mata, a self-proclaimed “taco guy,” was finally able to buy his truck with help

from his family, he decided to keep the business family friendly. That’s why he continues to serve $1 tacos and, he says, takes Sundays off to spend time with his own family. “We’re a family of six – we gotta make it affordable for everybody,” Mata says, “Nowadays nothing is $1.” Don’t leave without trying: If you’re a Flamin’ Hot Cheetos fan, then the Flamin’ Cheetos Taco. If it is bacon that gets you drooling, then try the Puerco Wrap Burrito – a burrito wrapped in bacon and grilled to perfection. Pro Tip: Ask for grilled onions and chili peppers and they’ll be sure to “slap some on.” Price Range: Most tacos are $1, but it’s $2.50 if you want homemade tortillas. A quesadilla is $8 and that bacon wrapped burrito is $15. Where to find it: Tacos Don Carlos is located at 1700 Soscol Ave. in Napa. It is opened between 11:30 a.m. – 9 p.m. (or when they sell-out) Monday through Friday. On Saturdays, the truck is out at special events. Search for the truck on Instagram or Facebook for updates. Word to the wise: In a rush? Order ahead by texting (707) 430-2252. INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 81

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INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 85

Hourglass Coffee Company founder Omar Salem pours his new medium roast from a French press. Courtney Teague photos, Register

Napa cop starts

coffee venture

Salem wants to use the bean to boost community

ou might have met Napa Police Cpl. Omar Salem while patrolling downtown or walking school grounds as a resource officer. Now, Salem has taken on a new role: owner and founder of Hourglass Coffee. Salem, an ex-tea drinker, said his passion for coffee began 12 years ago when he started his law enforcement career and turned to coffee to stay alert during long shifts. Salem, who said he doesn’t drink alcohol, also saw 86 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

C O U RT N E Y T E AG U E cte ag ue @nap ane w s . com coffee as something to sip at social functions while others drank wine. He experimented with the flavors of different coffee companies, starting with bigname brands and working his way to beans roasted in small batches. He traveled to Peru, Bolivia, Colombia and Mexico, and sampled regionally produced coffees along the way. “I developed a palette for coffee,” he said. “It’s a very social drink.” He was inspired to start Hourglass Coffee

after visiting a coffee company in Medellín, Colombia that claimed it didn’t export its product because it wanted locals to enjoy high-quality, locally produced coffee. Though the Bay Area has a lively coffee culture, Salem said he felt local residents had few options to choose from. Just like Oakland has Blue Bottle Coffee and San Francisco has Philz Coffee, Salem said he hopes Hourglass Coffee will be a local favorite for the Napa area. Fall/Winter 2019

He said he wants to see the community “taking pride in something other than wine.” Salem said he selects the beans and works with an Upvalley coffee roaster. Beans are roasted when the customer places their mail order. They aren’t “mass-produced in a big container,” he said. Hourglass Coffee currently offers two types of coffee, shipped in 12-ounce bronze bags with a valve that allows carbon dioxide to escape. Beans are organic and fair trade, he said. The medium roast, Tempo, is made with Guatemalan beans and produces a sweet and smooth beverage good for casual drinking, Salem said. La Hora (The Hour) is a dark roast made from beans sourced in Africa, Peru and Guatemala. La Hora has notes of chocolate and tobacco and pairs well with pastries or sweets, he said. Salem said he hopes to eventually visit the Fall/Winter 2019

ABOVE: An Hourglass Coffee display in downtown Napa’s Furniture 4 Less. LEFT: Tempo is a medium roast coffee made from Guatemalan beans.

regions where his beans are sourced, meet with growers and share their stories. He plans to eventually sell limited-edition beans from new countries, including Mexico — a nod to Napa County residents with Mexican roots. Salem said he picked his company’s name because hourglasses are meaningful to him. “Take your coffee and your time seriously,” he said. Hourglass Coffee launched two months ago, Salem said, and he counts spreading the word about his company and getting people to try the product among his biggest challenges. Refining details such as the logo and packaging was time-consuming. “The coffee was the easiest (part),” Salem said. Salem said he’s motivated by a desire to

leave a legacy for his children. His father, Louis, owns Furniture 4 Less in downtown Napa. When Salem decided to try to become a police officer, he took solace knowing that his family’s furniture store would always be a place to come back to. As an officer, Salem said he likes the community service aspect of policing. He hopes Hourglass Coffee beans will bring area residents together and give them a new locally roasted coffee option in a region dominated by wine production. He said he loves hearing positive feedback from customers and seeing people wear Hourglass Coffee shirts. “To me, that’s rewarding,” Salem said. Local customers can buy Hourglass Coffee bags for $16 at Furniture 4 Less (1326 Main St., Napa), Shackford’s Kitchen Store (1350 Main St., Napa), Ranch Market Too (6498 Washington St., Yountville) and Housley Napa Valley (1038 Clinton St., Napa). Tempo and La Hora are available for $17 and $18, respectively, at hourglasscoffeeco.com. INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 87

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Larson Family Winery labs, left to right: black lab Louie, yellow lab Ollie, brown lab Louie V, for Louie Vuitton. Marty Orgel photos

AMBASSADOR DOGS OF NAPA

Four-footed staff help entertain guests, build brands at wineries

he idea of dogs at Napa County wineries is not new. Dogs herding livestock is as old as farming itself. “Dog friendly” wineries are now relatively common. Yet – no pun intended – a new breed of dog is emerging in wine country; canines as ambassadors: Ambassadors of Happiness, Brand Ambassadors, and Guest Ambassadors. Drive up to Tres Sabores in St. Helena and a gaggle of five or six dogs run up to greet you. Mostly Golden Retrievers. People-friendly, 92 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

M A RT Y O RG E L tail wagging dogs that can trace their heritage back five generations to a retriever belonging to Tres Sabores owner Julie Johnson when she worked at a Rhode Island winery in 1978. “These dogs are part of our family,” Johnson said. They go everywhere with her and her husband Jon Engelskirger; They wake up to when the two walk into the vineyard, and in and out of the winery. They tag along on visitor tours and love playing with guests’ dogs. And then back to bed at the end of the day.

Johnson’s dogs are Brilla, Bouzy Rouge, and Cava. They are named after sparkling wines. The goldens have an Instagram feed, @tressaboresgoldens. Other workers’ dogs that occasionally join the pack include Tokyo and Toby. And visitors are encouraged to bring their own dogs. Parents who visit wineries with young children are usually aware they are not going on the most kid-friendly vacation, so wineries with ambassador dogs are a step ahead when it comes to marketing a family visit. Johnson Fall/Winter 2019

Tres Sabores humans, left to right: Stan Kim, Jennifer Kim, Sophia Kim, Nicole Kim, Jon Engelskirger, Julie Johnson, Mindy Guzman. Kneeling, Becky Evans. Dogs: Brilla, Bouzy Rouge, Tokyo. Backs toward camera: Brooklyn and Toby.

said parents are thrilled to come to Tres Sabores because their children always have a great time playing with the dogs. The Kims are such a family. They were the successful bidders of Tres Sabores’ offering in this year’s Napa Valley Wine Auction. Stan and Jennifer Kim from Fresno brought their daughters Sophia and Nicole with them when they came to pick up their wine, knowing the dogs would entertain their children the entire time. At Calistoga Ranch in Calistoga, Cal, an English cream retriever, is the five-star resort’s ambassador. He is owned by Avi Haksar, Calistoga Ranch general manager and regional vice president. Cal has full run of the winery and vineyard. “Because we offer an intimate setting,” Haksar said, “We have not commercialized him too much. We do not use him in a lot of our marketing.” Still, the resort is developing a Cal stuffed animal guests can buy. And like many winery canine ambassadors Cal has an Instagram feed #calistogaranchdog. Just southwest of the Napa County line in Sonoma, the Larson Family Winery goes all in branding and marketing their three labradors, Louie, Rosko, and Ollie. The winery is known for its Three Lab Cab and Three Lab Chard wines. “Dogs have been part of the Larson family forever,” said Melissa Mayer, Director of Sales and Marketing. The winery now boasts its third generation of labradors. “These dogs are our ambassadors. They are our brand,” Mayer said. “The dogs are Fall/Winter 2019

the best greeters and help show we are a welcoming community.” Along with labbranded Cabernet and Chardonnay, the winery offers labrador magnets, t-shirts, posters, cutting boards, doggy wine holders and even lab branded chocolate bars. Some winery doggy ambassadors come along and then move on. Tipsy is one. Dubbed the Ambassador of Happiness at a local winery, Tipsy and her human landscape artist owner Benjamin Godfrey recently underwent a life change and left the winery business. Still, Tipsy represented everything that is good in a winery canine ambassador. “There’s magic in having an ambassador dog at a resort,” Godfrey said. Tipsy is an old English sheepdog and Irish wolfhound mix. “It was important to me to get a rescue dog and one that was a mutt. You do not know the genetics of it and the mystery is really nice.” Tipsy, he said, got her name because she walks like a drunken sailor. During her tenure she was on Instagram and Facebook. She had 10,000 followers. Forbes Magazine highlighted her when reviewing the resort. “Our lives are so much better when we get to interact with animals, especially dogs,” Godfrey said. “She brought joy, happiness, and social interaction to her job. It was such an honor.” As some dogs leave, new ones enter the arena. Dearden Winery in the Carneros region of Napa plans to open at the end of 2020 or early 2021. Owner Chris Dearden said his two dogs – a purebred Newfoundland named

Cal, top, an English cream retriever, with new dog friend Angel at Calistoga Ranch in Calistoga.

Benjamin Godfrey and Tipsy.

Clover – and Lucky, a Newfiedoodle – will have major roles onsite. Both of his dogs, he said, are huge, beautiful throw rugs of fur. Both will be ambassador dogs at the new winery. These dogs are called gentle giants because they are so chill and are considered by many to be “nanny” dogs. They are wonderfully sweet and get along amazingly well with babies and young children. “Dogs have always been in my life and a part of our vineyard,” he said. “When it comes to a winery dog, you want a dog that is not a party animal. You want a dog that enjoys being with children, adults and other dogs.” INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 93

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Fair Housing Napa Valley 1-707-224-9720 (English/EspañoI) CARELAY 1-800-735-2922 (TTY) www.napafairhousing.org A public service message from the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development in partnership with the National Fair Housing Alliance. The federal Fair Housing Act prohibits discrimination because of race, color, religion, national origin, sex, familial status or disability. For more information, visit www.hud.gov/fairhousing.

94 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Fall/Winter 2019

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Dine at a winery?

It depends Sarah Klearman photos, Register

Piazza Del Dotto’s kitchen. Del Dotto employs a French Laundry-trained chef, but said he will look to simplify the winery’s existing food and wine pairing menu.

Food philosophies vary when vintners want to impress their customers SARAH KLEARMAN s k le ar man@napa n ew s . c o m

One of B Cellars’ tasting menu offerings: fig flatbread paired with Pinot Noir, elk sugo paired with the winery’s 2017 Blend 25, and crispy skin chicken thigh paired with Cabernet Sauvignon. Co-founder Duffy Keys believes food pairings are a crucial part of wine tastings. 98 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

here’s a science behind pairing food and wine – just ask any sommelier. For some of Napa’s wineries, deciding how best to incorporate food in their tasting rooms is a matter of similar nuance. Dave Del Dotto opened his third winery, Piazza Del Dotto, in 2017, with the intention to offer unique food and wine pairings as a way of distinguishing the property. Now, though, the winery is moving toward simplicity when it comes to food. “We thought we would be the cutting edge and try and upgrade the food a little bit, because I have a French Laundry-trained chef,” Del Dotto said. “We’ve found over the last couple of years that we’re narrowing that down. We’d like to have a little bit of food with the wine pairings, but we don’t want to do too much.” Upon opening, Piazza Del Dotto’s tasting menu included pairings like a Maine lobster roll on brioche with Chardonnay and an Fall/Winter 2019

Piazza Del Dotto’s pizza oven. Owner Dave Del Dotto said the winery will move away from its more complex culinary offerings toward simpler menus, including in-house made pizzas.

American wagyu black truffle slider with Cabernet Sauvignon; one of their previously offered tasting experiences featured crispy frog legs and house-cured bacon with black truffle in an egg-based pasta dough. Though guests can still opt-in for a tasting experience featuring gourmet bites, the winery is moving toward serving charcuterie boards, for which they cure their own meats, and small pizzas, house-made in the winery’s brick oven, Del Dotto said. “I’m going really simple (with the pairings),” Del Dotto said. He’s not in the restaurant business, he added, and the winery doesn’t have the “resources or inclination” to serve a full lunch. Nor would the winery be necessarily permitted to do so. Earlier this year, the county served B Cellars a code violation notice over its food service, saying that it appeared to function as a café/restaurant and that its marketing efforts overly emphasized food. Per Napa’s Winery Definition Ordinance, wineries must function principally as agricultural processing facilities. For wineries not grandfathered in to the winery definition – any winery that “commenced operations prior to July 31, 1974” – tours, tastings and marketing of wine produced are all considered ‘accessory use’ of the winery. While the county allows for food service as a facet of winery marketing, the ordinance says food must be served at cost and “in association with education and development” of the wine. Some wineries, like Madonna Estate, serve only wine at their tastings. Wineries may include food with their wine pairings, as long as their service and marketing complies with the Winery Definition Ordinance. It’s a unique set of parameters under which Napa’s wineries must operate. Fall/Winter 2019

B Cellars’ code violation has since been resolved, according to the county. And B Cellars continues to consider food pairings an integral part of its wine tastings, according to General Manager Curtis Strohl. “This is how we conceive of wine tastings,” he said. “When we’re blending the wine, one of the questions we ask ourselves is, ‘what (food) would you serve with this?’ That’s a part of the wine story, as much as the terroir is.” B Cellars sees the resources it puts into its food and wine pairings as a marketing expense, according to co-founder Duffy Keys. Like Del Dotto once had, Keys said food pairings allows the winery to differentiate itself from others. B Cellars’ menu currently offers pairings like truffled potato chips and French onion dip with Chardonnay and a fig flatbread with Pinot Noir. All of the tastings come with bite-sized, gourmet-type food pairings, unless otherwise requested by guests. Linda St. Claire, code compliance supervisor for the county, said the county has investigated previous complaints of “restaurant activity” at wineries, and after speaking with the owners, concluded they were “doing OK” relating to their compliance. She did not specify which wineries she was referring to. Beverly Sodhani and her husband, Arvind, own Sodhani Vineyards in St. Helena and recently applied for a modification of their use permit with the county. Their use permit currently allows only for retail sale of wine; if granted, the modification would allow visitation to the property for the first time. They’ve also applied for tastings and food and wine pairings in conjunction with the

B Cellars’ sweet corn madeleine, paired with its 2018 Blend 23, also pictured, as part of one of its tasting menus.

B Cellars’ truffled potato chips and french onion dip, to be paired with Chardonnay as part of one of its tasting menus.

visitation. As a boutique winery for whom case production ranges from 500 to 700 a year, they plan to keep their tastings as simple as possible, according to Sodhani. “We’d be doing mainly cheese and some bread, something that adds to the experience but (involves) no chef,” Sodhani said. “Being so small, for us, it’s all about the wine. We want to showcase the wine, not compete with it.” The respective choices of wineries speak to divergent trends in Napa, according to St. Claire. But it also highlights the individuality of the valley’s wineries. “Wineries are (an extension of ) the individual who owns the winery, and they all have their own personality, they all want to do their own thing,” she said. “There’s a huge variety when it comes to what they can do.” You can reach Sarah Klearman at (707) 256-2213 or sklearman@napanews.com. INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 99

St. Helena’s Titus Vineyards

turns 50

David Stoneberg photos, Star

In mid-August, the winegrapes at Titus Vineyards weren’t through veraison and hadn’t completely change color. The Titus family is celebrating 50 years of owning the vineyard, which is on Silverado Trail near Deer Park Road, just outside St. Helena.

Lee and Ruth Titus bought Silverado Trail property in 1969 J E S S E D UA RT E j d uar te @s the le n a s t a r. c o m

Titus Vineyards proprietor Eric Titus, left, poses with Francis Aquilina of St. Helena, who spent the summer working in the vineyard. He is currently a freshman at Cal Poly studying Viticulture with a minor in Spanish. 100 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

f you delve into the 50-year history of St. Helena’s Titus Vineyards, you’ll find a neat microcosm of the market forces and trends that have transformed the Napa Valley from a typical agricultural community to a wine-producing economic powerhouse. An increasing focus on fine wines, the transformation of grapegrowing from hobby to serious industry, and a growing reliance on direct-to-consumer marketing — it’s all right there in the Titus story. Lee Titus, a radiologist living in Sonoma, and his wife Ruth, whose family used to vacation in the Napa Valley as a child, bought 30 of Titus’ current 40 acres in 1969. “They wanted something that would be a family project and also an investment,” said their son Eric Titus. “There was so much good, valuable land on the market, either for developing or for farmland. The original 30 acres had sat on the market for a couple years, probably since 1967. That wouldn’t happen now.” Fall/Winter 2019

The land was already in vineyard, but the Napa Valley was far from a monoculture at the time. The valley’s agricultural output ranged from grapes to walnuts to poultry to prunes and other crops. The 10 additional acres acquired by Titus in the mid-‘70s included hay fields, later planted to Chardonnay and Zinfandel. Titus’ original 30 acres were mostly planted to Zinfandel, Carignane, Mondeuse, Burger and an acre of Concord table grapes. Titus sold the wine grapes to Charles Krug Winery, to the old Napa Valley Co-Op where Hall Wines is today, and later to Cuvaison and Beaulieu. As kids, Eric and his brother Phillip — now winemaker emeritus — sold some of the Concords at a grape stand on Silverado Trail, and some to Louis Gouveia for his fruit stand in Calistoga. Titus still grew Concord grapes as late as the ’80s, but along with the rest of the valley, their primary focus turned to fine wines. Block by block, varieties like Mondeuse and Burger were replaced with Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and other mainstays of today’s Napa Valley. Gone were the days of the early ’80s when Concords and Cabernet Sauvignon would each fetch $1 a pound. “Chardonnay was the first varietal that crossed the $2,000-a-ton mark, and everyone thought that was all the money in the world,” Eric Titus recalled. Farming techniques became more sophisticated during the ’70s and ’80s. Titus introduced irrigation, shoot-thinning, leaf-pulling and fruit-thinning. After 20 years of selling all of its grapes, Titus started making wine under its own label in 1990 — just a few hundred cases at first but gradually ramping up over the years. The winery released its own Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as a red blend with Cabernet Sauvignon and newly planted varieties like Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The rise of Cabernet Sauvignon at Titus was representative of the valley as a whole, with Cab prices jumping from the upper $5,000s to $8,000 per ton. Today a lot of the post-phylloxera vines of the late ’90s are being replanted, “and you can bet it’s almost all Cabernet,” Eric Titus said. “There’s probably going to be a little bit of an oversupply of Cabernet down the road,” he said. “After the 2018 vintage the market isn’t quite screaming for Cabernet the way it was. There might be a perception that Napa prices are a little too high and that it’s a one-trick pony — that the only thing that represents Napa anymore is Cabernet.” “It’s not that we’re headed toward tough times,” he added. “The market is just swinging Fall/Winter 2019

According to Eric Titus, this wind machine on the Titus Vineyards property on Silverado Trail just outside St. Helena is the oldest in the Napa Valley. It was built in 1951.

in a different direction.” Recent years have also seen direct-to-consumer marketing replacing the old three-tier distribution system. Titus’ new winery and tasting room, completed in 2015 and boasting impressive vineyard views west toward the Napa River, is in line with the new marketing model of giving consumers a memorable experience and a greater sense of place to associate with the wine. “When you’re twice-removed from the end user, it’s hard to develop lifelong customer loyalty,” Titus said. “As more and more wineries are becoming corporate-owned or owned by an investment group, being family-owned and -operated and multigenerational becomes a selling point.” Titus visitors are given a tutorial on the characteristics of the St. Helena appellation and a timeline going back all the way to Dr. Edward Turner Bale’s land grant of 1841 and highlighting historical curios like the Napa Valley’s first wind machine, built by the property’s former owners in 1951 and located just a short

walk from the winery. (Eric Titus credited the St. Helena Historical Society for conducting the research.) The new facility also allowed Titus to leave the custom-crush system behind, giving the family more control over the production process. “We’re able to be more nimble,” Titus said. “We’ve got our own array of tanks, and we can put in anywhere from four tons to 10 tons. When you’re at a custom-crush facility, it’s basically ‘We’ve got this tank, we’re expecting you on Tuesday with 10 tons of grapes’ — whether you want to pick 10 tons of fruit or not.” Titus joins other family-owned wineries that have recently reached the 50-year mark, such as ZD (in 2019) and Chappellet (in 2017). Doing business has become more expensive and complex over the years, but Eric Titus remains optimistic about the future. “I’m not going anywhere for a while,” he said. INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 101

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Napan Cinthya Cisneros and her family will open La Cheve Bakery and Brews at the Old Adobe in Napa. Jennifer Huffman photos, Register

New tenant

for Old Adobe La Cheve plans to offer beer and food in city’s renovated landmark

he next chapter in the long history of the Old Adobe — Napa’s oldest building — is about to be written. Napan Cinthya Cisneros and her family will open La Cheve Bakery and Brews at the historic structure. The goal is to open by the end of the year. “It’s always been a dream of 104 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

JENNIFER HUFFMAN j huf f man@nap ane w s . com mine since I was a kid to open up a spot for me and my family” to own and run, Cisneros, 29, said. At La Cheve, “Our focus is going to be on Mexican-style breads, traditional pastries and breakfast bites,” plus other food offerings. The café will also sell beer that she will be brewing off site, in addition to other local beers.

Property owner Justin Altamura and partners spent twoand-a-half years on an extensive and faithful renovation of the historical property. Altamura said he’s happy to have connected with Cisneros. “I was holding out for the perfect tenant and Cinthya is more perfect than I could have even thought of for the place,” he said.

“She loves the building. She’s a local. And she’s super ambitious and I happen to love her vision,” he said. “She’s going to do a good job.” “The Altamuras have been so helpful,” said Cisneros. “I don’t think it would have happened without their help.” Cisneros loves to brew beer. The interest comes naturally. Fall/Winter 2019

She has a degree in chemistry from Sonoma State University. Her first job after graduation was as a pathologist assistant for the Sacramento County coroner’s office, but she then got her teaching credential and worked as a high school chemistry teacher in West Sacramento. “I always loved the chemistry of water and how it affects the flavor profile of the beer,” she said. “I started home brewing like crazy.” When she brewed beer in her family’s garage in Napa, her mother would then make something sweet or savory to go with that particular beer. “We’d all gather around,” she said. “When it was ready, my mom would make a baked good that would pair up with it.” For example, “I made a Guava IPA and so we decided to pair it up with this really citrus-forward cheesecake. It was perfect.” “It was always fun to experiment with different baked good and appetizers,” said Cisneros. “My mom is a great cook.” Other pairings included a different IPA with tacos al pastor with pineapple. A horchata porter was paired with a coffee-style tres leches cake with rum in it. “It was a fabulous pairing,” she said. Around this same time, Cisneros also wrote a business plan for La Cheve, which helped her win $1,200 at the 2018 Youth Entrepreneurship business plan competition. At a second, different competition, she won a point of sale computer system and $10,000 seed money. Meanwhile, Cisneros took a job at Stone Brewing as a bartender to get more on-the-job brewery experience. The plan for La Cheve Bakery and Brews includes the family working together at the business, said Cisneros. After years of working hard for others, “I thought it’d be awesome to do it for ourselves.” When she was about 4 years old, Cisneros moved to the U.S. from Mexico. Fall/Winter 2019

A photo of Cayetano Juarez is now accompanied by a painting of the Cisneros family at La Cheve Bakery and Brews.

“My parents knew they couldn’t afford to send me to elementary school if they stayed in Mexico. They had the drive to change our lives, so they made the decision to come here,” said Cisneros. “Opening a business is a big risk, but when I compare it to what my parents have done for me, it’s very small. Just imagine leaving everything, your family and culture, to be able to give me a book and put a pencil in my hand.” The family arrived with

literally $5 to their name, but found jobs and became homeowners. Her mother, Juana Cisneros, works in a bakery and her father, Ezequiel Cisneros, in the construction materials industry. Cisneros’ brother, Juan Ezequiel, will also work at La Cheve. A sister, Deisy Cisneros, is in college in Southern California. Cisneros explained how she came to choose the Old Adobe for the venture’s location. Her parents live near the historic property, located at 376

Soscol Ave., she said. It’s long been a familiar icon. While searching for a space for La Cheve, the Old Adobe came to mind. “It would be the most perfect spot,” she thought then and now. “It looks gorgeous,” she said of the building. “I still can’t believe I have the keys to the Old Adobe,” Cisneros said. “It’s so surreal. It gives me goosebumps.” Just to be sitting in a place,” with so much history, “it’s so cool.” INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 105

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INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 109

When the

bottle does the talking Wineries can reach buyers in fresh ways

SARAH KLEARMAN s k le ar m an@nap ane w s . com‌ ‌Behind every bottle of wine, there’s a story. Paul Salcedo wants to tell it. Salcedo, with co-founders Jason Driver and Tuoc Luong, created BottleVin. The app uses near-field communication (NFC) technology, like the kind you might find in a contactless payment device, to allow smartphone users to simply tap their way into information about the vintners and vineyards behind individual bottles of wine. The NFC technology can be embedded within wine labels, making for easy consumer access. BottleVin, also supports QR codes and label scans, making it the first alcohol-centric app to support all three. Salcedo, who moved to Silicon Valley in the late 1990s to work in the tech industry, began looking at NFC after Apple made the technology accessible to third-party developers on iPhones in 2017. “Through the years, I’ve always known I’d someday mix technology and wine together,” Salcedo said. Having grown up in St. Helena, he remained passionate about the food and wine culture instilled in him by the valley. BottleVin launched in May of last year, with Reynolds Family Winery in Napa as its pilot partner winery. “This technology seemed so logical in the next step of asking – ‘how can I tell the 110 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

story of this bottle?’,” owner and winemaker Steve Reynolds said. “What about the 30, 40 hands that touched and created this bottle? That’s almost as important as the flavor. People want to know their producers.” Upon opening the app, users also have the option to read articles written by vintners and browse featured wines. Scanning or tapping a wine bottle conjures up facts about the wine, tasting notes, and suggested pairings; users also have the option to learn about the respective wineries and hear directly from the winemakers through videos. As direct-to-consumer sales become increasingly important for the wine industry, smaller wineries are looking for creative ways to engage with their consumer bases. Those wineries may not have the financial bearings to launch an app that would engage with their clients in the way the BottleVin does, Salcedo said, adding that it could cost “hundreds of thousands of dollars” to do such a thing. “It levels the playing field for a lot of wineries and producers,” Salcedo said. “We could work with anyone from a boutique winery that does 100 cases a year all the way up to a large winery.” The app has since partnered with two other wineries, Balboa Winery in Walla

Walla, Washington and Bricoleur Vineyards in Windsor. As the app grows, Salcedo said, he hopes it will become a network of wineries and possibly even distilleries, creating a kind of educational platform for industry consumers. On the producer end, the app could give its partners a chance to learn about the demographics buying their products, according to Salcedo. Users must create an account using their age, and have the option to give their gender and location, too. “Even if the only information I have is that the buyer is a female in their 30s and lives in Southern California – especially if, say, 90% of my chardonnay is being bought by females in their 30s – that’s just enough information to be helpful,” Reynolds said. Reynolds said the technology behind BottleVin is accessible—and he’s excited by its storytelling capacity. “We’re the sort of family that would grow their own peaches, store them in the root cellar, and make our pie crust by hand. How do you get that message out?” Reynolds said. “Every bottle has a story behind it, and our story gets told a little more this way.” You can reach Sarah Klearman at (707) 256-2213 or sklearman@napanews.com. Fall/Winter 2019

NUTCRACKER From Page 23

For the more complicated costumes, tutus, and jackets, Moore and Wippern said they begin working on design concepts as early as February or March. “I like to play with various trims and fabrics, sometimes leaving them pinned to the design wall or mannequin for a while so I can add pieces or move things around until it feels right,” Moore said. Moore said the most time-consuming costume she’s ever worked on for The Nutcracker was Sugar Plum’s tutu, because of all of the hand-sewn beading. But the “trickiest costume,” Moore said, was the jacket for the Prince. “Wanda (McGill) found a vintage women’s blazer in beautiful deep navy velvet at Community Projects,” Moore recalled. “I deconstructed it, then remade the bodice to fit a man’s body, added blousy gold brocade sleeves—with fabric from a vintage tablecloth—and topped it with long blue velvet cuffs and crystal trim. That was fun.” After the performances, every costume is laundered or dry cleaned. The more delicate costumes are hand-washed, Moore said. Then it all goes into storage until next year. Wippern said creating costumes for The Nutcracker is the “most fulfilling thing” she has ever done, creatively. “How many people get to say they are involved in building a project from start to finish? Not many. I am talking about sketching something out on paper, choosing colors, choosing materials, then manufacturing. Not many people get to do that.” Wippern said. “I am one lucky lady.” THE COST OF A LIVE ORCHESTRA The live orchestra was added to The Nutcracker during NRDC’s 10th season in 2010. McGill said the orchestra provides a “unique opportunity” for young dancers, who learn how to coordinate their steps with live music. The orchestra also enhances the experience for the audience. “There is no comparison to the sound of live music filling the theater and dancers filling the stage at the same moment in time,” McGill said. Providing an orchestra, however, is an expensive undertaking, McGill said. There have been years, since 2010, when the dance company was unable to include live music. “We are not always able to raise the additional $30,000 to the production cost to have this happen each year,” McGill said. Fall/Winter 2019

“The establishment of Napa Regional Dance Foundation in 2014 and non-stop efforts from the board members have successfully established the funding for the past four years.” Wendi Moore, along with Mike Parsons and Gloria Gutierrez, are the founders of the nonprofit Napa Regional Dance Foundation, Moore said. The Foundation’s mission, she said, is to help enrich Napa Valley youth and the community through dance education, performance, and artistic collaboration. “Since its founding, we have raised money to bring live symphony accompaniment to The Nutcracker annually, fund master teacher programs, and to create other collaborative performance opportunities to young dancers in the Company,” Moore said. Wolf has served on the board of the Napa Regional Dance Foundation for two years and was recently promoted to board president. The addition of live music, Wolf said, elevates the entire performance. The 2019 Symphony Project Campaign is currently underway, McGill said. The final curtain descends The most rewarding part of being involved in The Nutcracker, Wolf said, is watching the young dancers grow and mature — not only as dancers — but as young people. “Many have started out as ‘cookies’ who dance with Mother Ginger, and they are so cute,” Wolf said. “In the blink of an eye, they are soloists dancing very challenging roles.” Although she has two daughters of her own, Wolf said she feels like a “proud mama” of all of the young dancers during each Nutcracker production. “It’s always sad to see the seniors leave and head off to college, but I have no doubt they will each do well in whatever field they pursue because of the level of discipline and determination it takes to be a dancer at this level,” Wolf said. The last live performance of the weekend can feel bittersweet, Wolf said. “Once the final curtain descends, we are all a bit sad, more eager for the next year to begin,” Wolf said. For Ito, Napa Regional’s Nutcracker

Submitted photo‌

performance is a “magical and charming” experience. “It warms your heart to know that local kids are performing it,” Ito said. “The quality goes so far beyond that though — from the breathtaking set and props to the lighting and beautiful orchestra, to the high-quality dancing — you are truly getting a professional show.” Student Haley Miller described ballet as essentially therapeutic. “What I enjoy most about ballet is being able to express my emotions and being able to use ballet as almost a sort of escape,” Miller said. “Whenever I come to class, once I start dancing, I am able to let out all of my worries and everything that has been on my mind and enjoy myself. Dance helps me let go and live in the moment, making me a much happier person overall.” Ryan Halstead, 9, who plays the role of Fritz, said ballet is “really fun,” but harder than it looks. “It’s kind of funny because when you see it from the stage it looks so easy, and you’re like, ‘I could do that.’ Then when you actually try it, it takes a lot of work,” Ryan said. McGill, the dance company’s executive director, said it has been her “joy” to witness two generations of Napa Valley children perform in The Nutcracker. “It’s been so rewarding to see these young dancers experience our program and create a lifetime of friendships and memories,” McGill said. “We are all looking forward to seeing the third generation of dancers and their families experience this amazing art form as they continue to celebrate dance.” INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 111

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