journeys of flavour MAGAZINE SUMMER 2018
WIN! PRIZES FROM CHERRY CHOUFFE, SEXY SOCKS, PIERRE JOURDAN AND NOMU
HAUTE TRAVEL HAUTE PROPERTY HAUTE PERFORMANCE HAUTE CUISINE WHEN HAUTE? HAUTE WINS HAUTE SUMMER HAUTE FAVOURITES HAUTE READS
Contents Amuse bouche 5
The gourmet team • Jenny Handley • Natalie Brock • Rosanne Buchanan • Wilna Combrinck • Kristen Brock Cover image Dylan Swart and Restaurant Mosaic Contact details P.O. Box 32216, Camps, Bay 8040 +27 437 0334 | rsvp@jhpr.co.za www.gourmetguide.co.za jhp_gourmet_guide jenny_handley Jenny Handley Performance Management
Terms and conditions for competitions 1. All competitions featured in this issue will run until 28 February 2019. 2. Winners will be selected at random and will be contacted by Wednesday 6 March 2019. 3. Gourmet Guide magazine reserves the right to publish names of the winners. 4. Competitions are open to SA residents only. 5. Prizes are not transferable or exchangeable and cannot be redeemed for cash. 6. Employees and contractors to Jenny Handley Performance Management cc, and their immediate family members, are not eligible to enter. 7. Jenny Handley Performance Management cc cannot be held responsible for any errors, omissions and/or technical failures throughout this promotion. Stock images from unsplash.com
Welcome from the editor
Haute travel
Visit Sicily for some summer inspiration 6 Lanzerac Wine Estate – winelands getaway 22 Linden hot spots in Jozi 28
Haute property 32
Salsify, new life on a historical site
Haute performance 37 Christiaan Ndaya inspires
Haute cuisine 38
JHP Gourmet Guide™ rated chefs share their recipes
Haute cooking 53
Hands-on cookery courses around the globe
When haute? 64
What’s fresh and in season now
Haute summer 68
The best bubbles for an effervescent summer
Haute favourites 74
A chef and sommelier share a few of their favourite things
Haute reads 76
Recipe book reviews
Launch of the 2019 JHP Gourmet Guide™ 78
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“TRAVEL CHANGES YOU. AS YOU MOVE THROUGH THIS LIFE AND THIS WORLD YOU CHANGE THINGS SLIGHTLY, YOU LEAVE MARKS BEHIND, HOWEVER SMALL. AND IN RETURN, LIFE – AND TRAVEL – LEAVES MARKS ON YOU.” ANTHONY BOURDAIN Welcome to the launch edition of the Gourmet Guide e-mag. It follows hot on the heels of the launch of the printed annual JHP Gourmet Guide™, glossy and mouthwatering. We’ve shared some of the moments of the exclusive event at which the 25 plated and five awarded chefs and restaurants were announced. It was then that we shared the exciting news of our partnership with the premium restaurant booking app, Dineplan, and the news of the quarterly, seasonal online magazine – free for you to download, print and enjoy. As we launch this issue, we are proud to announce that the 2019 JHP Gourmet Guide™, available in Woolworths and selected book stores throughout South Africa, has been selected as the winner to represent SA in the culinary travel category in the international Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, in July in Macau, China. This is an honour, and a reflection of the standard of the cuisine in our country. We thank each chef, restaurant and photographer for their contribution. This platform gives us the opportunity of constantly updating you on chef and restaurant news; giving you
behind-the-scenes snippets of who is eating what, where, plus gorgeous recipes from the chefs. Each edition will feature an exciting international culinary destination (with recipes), plus a local culinary destination. Like the printed JHP Gourmet Guide™, which focuses on four areas in our country (Cape, winelands, en route, Jozi etc), each of the four issues will focus on one. Summer is when many head down south, so this edition has a leaning towards Cape Town and the winelands. We will tell you what is ripe for the picking – seasonal fruits and vegetables that are at their most nutritious – with recipes that vary from advanced to elementary to make the most of the harvest. There could not have been a better place to start – summer, when everyone relaxes after a hectic year, when we celebrate Christmas and the start of a new year, the resolutions of January and the romance of February. We are celebrating these with some exciting competitions – watch our social media platforms for details. Join us as we start the culinary journey. May your summer journeys be safe, happy and healthy.
Jenny Handley
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Sicily HAUTE TRAVEL
Image by Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea
A VOLCANIC ISLAND OOZING FLAVOUR
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MANY TOP ITALIAN CHEFS WILL CONFESS THAT THE MOST SUCCULENT, TASTIEST TOMATOES ARE NOT GROWN ON THE MAINLAND, BUT ON THE VOLCANIC ISLAND OF SICILY. IN SEARCH OF SOLITUDE AND THE PERFECT TOMATO, JENNY HANDLEY SET OFF FOR THIS MAGICAL, EVOCATIVE ISLAND. It was the tastes of luscious tomatoes that lured me to the island, where locals use only what is grown on their doorstep. The seafood, capers, olives, nuts and citrus came a close second. To avoid the busy capital of PALERMO, we landed in CATANIA, planning to spend our sojourn in the south of the island. After an hour in a taxi from the airport we stopped in the seaside town of TAORMINA. Here I had my first sighting of a tomato – fat, juicy and a little misshapen, at a little supermarket where the owner used animal noises to differentiate between cow’s milk and sheep’s milk. A short trot to the
funicular to buy a week’s pass, a threeminute ride and we were whisked up to the old town of Taormina. Here the pedestrian road extends from one arch to another, with many swish shops, restaurants and bars, plus side streets of quaint shops. As raindrops cooled us down, we drank Sicilian wine, cracked monkey nuts and devoured tangy tomato bruschetta. For my man a dinner of swordfish fillet in a cherry tomato sauce with capers, black olives, oregano and parsley was exceptional. My love affair with the humble tomato reached an all-time high when I dined on the fish of the day, stone fish, with the famous Sicilian Messina sauce, named after a coastal town nearby. Each day started at the ‘office’, a local café that offered Wi-fi, the best cappuccino and cannoli (ricotta-filled, deep-fried pastry cone) in town, before day trips to explore other villages. On Monday it was SIRACUSA, where the fresh produce market was a highlight. We gazed in awe at the ancient ruins of
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Images by Jenny Handley, Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo. Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea
“It's difficult to think anything but pleasant thoughts while eating a homegrown tomato.” Lewis Grizzard
10 Tempo di Apollo, wandered in and out of little shops in the old town, and then had lunch at Giro d’ Italia – a board of cheeses, charcuterie and focaccia. We then headed to NOTO, the shops of which were mainly closed being a Monday, so sadly missed out on the world-famous granita at Caffe Siciliano. We did, however, see the paintings on the stairs, which are incredible, and bought some beautiful little handmade tiles. Sicily is famous for its ceramics, with good reason. Tuesday was CASTAGIRONE, a hillhugging town, the centre of ceramic production. From the painted piazza there are 141 steps to the Santa Maria, tiled, with each row of faded antique tiles being unique. Side streets have little shops, restaurants and bars, and we spotted many clusters of Italian men on benches, simply watching the world go by. A simple lunch on the main square was the simplest salad with succulent tomatoes that oozed flavour from first bite to their last, lingering taste. CATANIA is the second smallest town on the island, and known for its lively, bustling fish market. It’s best to get there early to witness the chaos that reigns as chefs and locals vie for the best prices. After the ‘show’ we sauntered to the nearby piazza for cappuccino and almond pastries. A day on the beach followed, with a break for a Caprese salad at a beach restaurant, before donning our glad rags and heading to the Belmond
Grand Hotel Timeo. It is situated next to the Greek theatre, with arresting views of Mount Etna in the distance. Sipping drinks and eating canapes on the Literary Terrace, where D.H. Lawrence and other literary greats penned their work and gleaned inspiration, is a treat for anyone with an appetite for literature. Dinner at the Timeo Restaurant followed, with sommelier Simone guiding our way, starting with a local extra brut Prosecco and then a Cristo di Campobello-Laluci. Chef Roberto Toro digs into his heritage and allows local produce to shine on each beautifully crafted plate. Nothing is overworked, and local ingredients are the star of the show.
meandering past us as we put one foot in front of the other. At times we were on a designated path, at other times walking through the sand-like lava. It was fascinating to see pink, yellow and white flowers emerging from the black dust like a phoenix from the ashes. Chilly at times, we huffed and puffed, dropped a few layers of clothing, only to put them back on at the top, where it was 4°C. What an exhilarating feeling to make it to the top after nearly two hours, and even more pleasing to return via the funicular. CASTEMOLA, a commune and castle on the hill above Taormina, is where we found a wine bar for a well-deserved drink that evening.
We returned the next day for a walk around the Greek theatre, marveling at the ancient ruin. Dinner at the sister hotel, Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea’s Oliviero Restaurant was as special as Grand Hotel Timeo, but different. Here the proximity of the sea and beautiful gardens provide a sophisticated holiday ambience. Chef Angostino D’Angelo has a light touch, with each flavour shining individually before uniting them to produce a memorable dish.
Sunday saw us driving to the elevated, medieval town of CASTIGLIONE DI SICILIA – declared, deservingly as one of Italy’s most beautiful towns; with ancient, pale terracotta buildings. We drove through to RANDAZZO to see the local Sunday flea market, and then set off on winding, single-lane roads to taste the wines of Tenuta di Fessina. We were welcomed by the hospitality manager, who gave us an informative tour of the vineyards and showed us around the magnificently restored rooms in the 17th century building. Guiseppe, a student of gastronomic studies from Piedemont (where they sensibly combine the studies of food and wine), led us through the tasting of six of their wines.
The best way of walking off a day of cooking and feasting was to drive the 40 minutes to MOUNT ETNA. Arriving at the funicular as it opened at 9h00, to avoid crowds and clouds, which come in later in the day, was clever. We walked slowly to the top. I looked longingly at every bus slowly
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On our last day we decided, in inclement weather, to soak up the real
CHEF ROBERTO TORO, BELMOND GRAND HOTEL TIMEO
13 CHEF ANGOSTINO D'ANGELO OF BELMOND VILLA SANT'ANDREA
“Only two things that money can't buy – that's true love and homegrown tomatoes.” John Denver
feel of Taormina. Lunch was a cheese and wine tasting at a deli owned by a young couple – Concertina is the daughter of a cheese producer, and her husband Mario serves the guests in the most passionate, engaging manner. This was one of our finest meals, of course dominated by fresh tomatoes. Etna wines were generously served, and we feasted on the full spectrum of deli fare, chatting with a couple from Cambridge who were equally appreciative of the quality meal. After admiring the art on the walls, I hotfooted to the source, a gallery where ceramist and artist Don Corleone sells his wares. I emerged with a platter covered in prickly pears, a reminder of the Arabic invasion and influence. We returned on our last night for sundowners at the Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea, a glass of Prosecco with the light dimming to become one with the backdrop of the sea. A toast had to be drunk to Sicily, to returning one day to explore the north (where Masala wines are produced) and re-ignite a love affair with tomatoes. The selection of Sicilian recipes is inspired by, and adapted from, chef Massimo Tomarchio.
For tomato lovers
• Vivid memories of juicy tomatoes eaten in Mediterranean countries may instantly come to mind, yet it is in South America that the species originated. The Aztec word ‘tomati’ is where the Spanish term ‘tomate’ comes from, before the English word that we know, tomato. • It is the most diverse fruit (called such because of its seeds but classified as a berry). She is a social fruit, loves living with basil, enjoys spending time with vodka in a bloody Mary, and brightens many salads like Caprese, pasta and vegetable dishes. • Choose fresh tomatoes deep in colour with a sweet fragrance. • Tomatoes grow best in hot sun, remember that when you want to refrigerate them. Don’t! It ruins their flavour. • The scientific term for the tomato is lycopersicon, meaning ‘wolf peach’. They are full of lycopene, an anti-oxidant that helps prevent cancer and keep your heart healthy. It is responsible for the tomato’s red colour. Most of it is found in the skin, so where possible try not to discard it. • Tomatoes are rich in vitamins, especially vitamin C and K, potassium and fibre.
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PALERMO CASTIGLIONE DI SICILIA RANDAZZO
MARSALA
MESSINA TAORMINA CASTEMOLA
ETNA CATANIA CASTAGIRONE SIRACUSA
Sicily
NOTO
BAKED CALAMARI
BRUSCHETTA
This is a winner, simple yet elegant as a starter or main course.
Other options for toppings include aubergine and mint, artichokes, mixed roast vegetables and roast onion and thyme
INGREDIENTS 3 calamari tubes 100g black olives 200g cherry tomatoes 2T capers 50g pine nuts 25ml olive oil ½C fresh breadcrumbs salt, pepper METHOD 1 Preheat oven to 230°C. 2 Clean and slice the calamari tubes into 1cm pieces. 3 De-stone the olives. 4 Halve the cherry tomatoes. 5 Rinse the capers if they are in salt. 6 Place all ingredients except breadcrumbs, into an ovenproof dish. 7 Sprinkle with olive oil and breadcrumbs. Season to taste. 8 Place in oven and bake for 6 to 8 minutes. 9 Serve hot, either in individual ramekins, or in a large ovenproof dish. Serves 6
INGREDIENTS 1 large loaf ciabatta twigs of fresh rosemary olive oil 2 cloves garlic, peeled 2C chopped tomatoes 1 bunch fresh basil, chopped wine or herb vinegar salt, pepper METHOD 1 Preheat the oven to grill. 2 Slice ciabatta into 1cm slices. 3 On a baking sheet, place the rosemary, and top with slices of ciabatta. 4 Grill on both sides. 5 Remove from oven and drizzle with olive oil and rub with garlic. 6 Place the tomatoes, basil, herb vinegar, salt and pepper into a bowl and mix. 7 Drain, and retain the liquid for cooking. 8 Spoon onto each slice of ciabatta just before serving. Serves 6 to 8
“A world without tomatoes is like a string quartet without violins.” Laurie Colwin BRUSCHETTA
CAPONATA
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CAPONATA
FRESH PASTA
This dish works well as a main course for vegetarians, or as a side course with a meat dish. Serving cold in small dishes as tapas with crusty bread brings rave reviews too.
Once you have made fresh pasta, you will never resort to shop-bought pasta again.
INGREDIENTS 50ml olive oil 2 large aubergines, cut into chunks 1T dried origanum salt, pepper 1 red pepper, sliced 1 onion, chopped 30g Italian parsley, chopped 2 cloves garlic, crushed 2T capers 100g green olives 3T herb vinegar 6 large tomatoes, chopped 2T raisins or sultanas 1 red chilli, chopped 50g pine nuts METHOD 1 Heat olive oil in a large frying pan and add the aubergines. 2 Add oregano, salt and pepper. 3 In a separate pan fry the red pepper, onion, parsley and garlic. 4 Add this mixture to the aubergines. 5 Add capers, olives and vinegar and cook for 5 minutes. 6 Add tomatoes and simmer for a further 20 minutes, covered. Check seasoning. 7 Add raisins and chilli. 8 Top with pine nuts just before serving.
INGREDIENTS 300g semolina flour 300g white flour 3 eggs pinch salt water METHOD 1 Combine the flours on a flat surface. 2 Make a hole in the middle. 3 Break eggs into the hole and add salt. 4 Beat with a fork, then start to use your hands. 5 Slowly add a little water while starting to knead. 6 Once smooth, roll into a ball, cover with plastic and rest for 20 minutes in a cool place or in the fridge. 7 If you wish to make macaroni, roll into a sausage and then cut into small pieces. 8 Roll each piece around a metal skewer, remove the skewer, place on a baking sheet and sprinkle with semolina flour. 9 If you wish to make strings of pasta, use a pasta machine. 10 Fill a large pot with water and bring to the boil. Do not add oil. 11 Place the pasta into the water and cook for 8 to 10 minutes. 12 Add salt towards end of cooking. 13 Drain and serve. Serves 6 to 8 BAKED CALAMARI
Serves 6
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18 MEATBALLS IN LEMON LEAVES The delicate lemon flavour gives these light meatballs a zing and can be enjoyed hot or cold. INGREDIENTS 500g beef mince 75g white breadcrumbs 1 lemon, zest and juice olive oil 20g Italian parsley, chopped 1 clove garlic, crushed salt, black pepper 24 lemon leaves METHOD 1 Preheat oven to 200°C. 2 Mix all ingredients except for the lemon leaves in a bowl, by hand. 3 Make golf-ball-sized balls using an ice-cream scoop to ensure equal sizing. 4 Place each ball on a lemon leaf on a baking tray, there should be 12. 5 Take the other 12 leaves and place over each, flattening them a bit. 6 Place in oven and bake for 8 to 10 minutes. 7 Serve on the crispy lemon leaves, but do not eat them! Serves 6 Tip: You can also place the meatballs between lemon leaves in a grid, and braai them.
19 SICILIAN FENNEL AND ORANGE SALAD
TIRAMISU-FLAVOURED ICE CREAM WITH CHOCOLATE SAUCE
This bright, colourful and crunchy salad is a win as an accompaniment to meatballs, braaied meat, chicken or fish, and works well as a starter too.
Made well in advance, this is sure to bring any dinner party to a worthy climax.
INGREDIENTS 10 green olives 500g celery stalks 500g fennel 100ml olive oil juice and zest of one lemon salt and pepper 2 to 3 oranges, segmented 2T capers 1 pomegranate, seeded 100g almonds METHOD 1 Halve the olives. 2 Wash, chop, blanch and drain the celery. Keep the water from blanching for your stock, or as a cooking liquid. 3 Slice the fennel thinly on a mandolin. 4 Combine the olive oil, lemon and seasoning. 5 Combine the olives, celery, fennel, olive oil mixture, capers and oranges. 6 Place onto a serving platter. 7 Top with seeds and nuts. 8 Serve immediately. Serves 6
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INGREDIENTS Tiramisu-flavoured ice cream 2 eggs, separated 100g icing sugar 2C cream 200ml strong coffee 200g Boudoir biscuits 200ml Marsala, sherry or coffeeflavoured liqueur 2T hot chocolate powder
top of the coffee mixture, to form the base, as you did with the first half of biscuits. 9 Cover and freeze overnight. 10 To serve, invert out of the loaf pan and sprinkle with hot chocolate powder. 11 Serve slices with sliced strawberries and a chocolate or coffee sauce. Easy hot chocolate sauce 1 Melt the dark chocolate and cream together in a small saucepan over low heat. 2 Serve hot in a jug. Serves 12
Easy hot chocolate sauce 200g good quality dark chocolate 1C cream METHOD Tiramisu-flavoured ice cream 1 Whisk egg yolks and sugar until creamy. 2 Whisk egg whites in a separate bowl until soft peak stage. 3 In a separate bowl, whip cream until stiff. Fold three mixtures together. 4 Halve the mixture, then fold the coffee, cooled, into the one half. 5 Put the plain mixture into a lined loaf pan. 6 Soak half the biscuits in the liqueur, and put a layer of these on top of the plain mixture, placing them along the length of the pan so that you will see small rounds when it is sliced. You may have to cut some of the biscuits for a perfect fit. 7 Cover with the coffee mixture. 8 Soak the other half of the biscuits in liqueur, and place them on
THE GOURMET GUIDE PREP LIST Week before: • make the tiramisu ice cream The day before: • make caponata • make chocolate sauce Morning of the day: • prepare meatballs • make pasta dough • prepare calamari dish • chill wine 1 hour before serving (in order): • make salad • make bruschetta
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20 SHOPPING LIST
Exploring Sicily GROCERIES • 1 large loaf ciabatta • olive oil • wine/herb vinegar • 300g semolina flour • 300g white flour • 200g white breadcrumbs • 6T capers • 300g green olives • 100g pine nuts • 2T raisins • 100g icing sugar • coffee • 200g Boudoir biscuits • 100g almonds HERBS AND SPICES • 4 cloves garlic • 1 large bunch fresh basil • 50g fresh Italian parsley • 12 lemon leaves • pepper
FRUIT & VEGETABLES • 1kg tomatoes • 200g cherry tomatoes • 7 onions • 2 lemons • 2 large aubergines • 1 red pepper • 1 red chilli • 500g celery • 500g fennel • 2 oranges • 1 pomegranate DAIRY • 5 eggs • 750ml (3C) cream MEAT/SEAFOOD/ FROZEN • 500g beef mince • 3 calamari tubes
NOMU • rosemary and red onion salt • porcini salt • origanum • hot chocolate powder • 200g organic dark baking chocolate
DRINKS 200ml Marsala/sherry or coffee liqueur
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Take a while on the wine side Jenny Handley took to the vineyards of Stellenbosch to admire the rejuvenation of a gem.
IT WAS A TRUE FEELING OF DÉJÀ VU THAT OVERWHELMED ME AS WE APPROACHED THE LEAFY DRIVE TO THE ENTRANCE OF THE LANZERAC WINE ESTATE IN STELLENBOSCH. Fun, heady student days when the highlight was to descend upon the hotel with its Cape Dutch gables and expansive lawns for the legendary cheese platter. It came with tomato soup and spaghetti bolognaise, but it was the vast array of (average) cheeses that called. They gave us good blotting paper whilst experiencing SA’s first wine route, Stellenbosch, and the Lanzerac was always the last stop. Hit fast forward and there is nothing average about this five-star hotel and spa. There is more to it than bottling the world’s first Pinotage in 1959, a marriage between Pinot Noir
and Hermitage. There is a history that has been threaded into the fabric of Stellenbosch, starting in 1692. In May 2017 a devastating fire became part of this history. Designer Con van der Colff has restored this lady to her former glory, carefully juxtaposing old and new, paying extreme attention to detail – like bringing timber from Northern Europe to re-create roof trusses locally. Look up while admiring the décor in the Governor’s Hall, and you would think that they have been there forever. Rooms, 53 in total, ranging from classic rooms to suites, are tastefully and uniquely decorated with every modern convenience teamed with traditional and antique pieces. The old-world sophistication and understated elegance are evident in every room of the hotel.
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24 We started our morning with the wine and chocolate pairing – five of the lauded Lanzerac wines enhanced with a small bar of chocolate. The barrel-fermented Chardonnay with a lemongrass and ginger-flavoured white chocolate was the most memorable. The winemaking history of the Lanzerac dates back to 1914, the year in which owner Mrs Katherina English bottled the first grapes grown on the land. She is honoured by the current winemaking team with the label Mrs English Chardonnay. The daily cellar tour at 11h00 is reputed to be worth putting into your personal itinerary, but sadly we were unable to tear ourselves away from the wine tasting in time. There are three dining options on the estate. At the Taphuis one can eat indoors or on the terrace. The laid-back casual restaurant, the Deli, impresses locals and visitors with its home bakes, wines, cheeses and the gift selection. Our light lunch of the ploughman’s platter brimming with charcuterie, flavour-filled cheeses and home-made pickled onions and chutney, paired with a glass of the Lanzerac MCC, hit high notes. It was then time for a nap in the impressive suite that we were calling home for the weekend. Dipping a toe into our private pool reminded us that whilst the air and the staff were warm, the water was not! For a Capetonian, the luxury of being able to languish in a pre-dinner bath, was glorious! Dinner at The Manor Kitchen is exactly what visitors to the winelands wish
to experience. Here there is fine food rather than fine dining, relaxed fare with finesse, classics prepared and presented with a contemporary twist. The emphasis is on balance. Chatting to chef Stephen Fraser, who has been at the hotel for eight years, was another treat. Welshborn, having lived here for 13 years in which he worked under David Higgs at both Leinster Hall and Meerendal, he calls South Africa home. Chat long enough and he may break into a line or two of Afrikaans, and is known to choose a braai in his quiet time. His current plans include a kitchen garden, once the rebuild of rooms is complete. Then an intimate, finedining restaurant in a room that radiates ambiance with ancient stone floors and exposed brick walls. A sideways glance at the high-tea table explained why he was once predicted to be a famous pastry chef. Stephen uses the heritage of the hotel as the foundation of his dishes, and interesting twists on the ubiquitous bobotie (his with braised Springbok leg, the egg steamed separate, served with stone fruit, coconut yoghurt and fresh coriander), with the produce of the land. Dinner was a delicious affair, his cauliflower starter taking centre stage for me – served in a variety of textures and tastes, with a beet gnocchi and orange cream. The butternut and prawn bisque for my dining partner was vibrant and elegant, complete with a touch of braaied mealie. Her slow-cooked lamb shank gave me a touch of order envy, rich and robust yet not overpowering. Desserts – the molten lava hazelnut fondant for me and the vegan
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cheesecake for my carnivore companion (just because it sounds different, she stated), brought a memorable meal to a close. One can easily be persuaded to have a nightcap chosen from the array of local and international spirits in the Craven Lounge, named after Doc Danie Craven who, with his dog Bliksem, was a much-lauded Lanzerac regular. The official day of rest was spent, after an excellent breakfast, luxuriating in the world-class spa. Instead of taking a walk through the 162-hectare estate, time on the treadmill enjoying the vineyard vista from the gym, suited a lazy day. Facilities are fabulous; the service, like everywhere else in the hotel, is notable – engaging and informative. The pampering included a facial after time in the indoor heated pool, sauna, jacuzzi and steam room. The Vitality Corner is where we settled in our robes for a healthy lunch. The view, exceptional – what’s not to love about lying around soaking up the surroundings, with a commanding view of the vineyards and mountain? The cuisine, in the words of chef Stephen, is “Classics re-imagined”. The Lanzerac, in mine? Five-star fabulous, from start to finish. Address: 1 Lanzerac Road, Jonkershoek, Stellenbosch, 7600 Phone: +27 (0)21 887 1132 Website: www.lanzerac.co.za
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27 STELLENBOSCH, SETTING THE SCENE
SATISFY YOUR APPETITE IN STELLENBOSCH
The university town of Stellenbosch overflows with character and charm, in termtime with students frequenting the many coffee shops. In exam time the frantic feeling abates, then students scatter, and tourists arrive to enjoy more than 150 wine estates. On the banks of the Eerste River, it is the second oldest European settlement in the Western Cape, after Cape Town. It is known as Eikestad (City of Oaks), as founder Simon van der Stel, then Governor of the Cape, planted a row of oak trees in the town that continues to provide shade and character today. The town is sandwiched between Jonkershoek and Simonsberg, two world heritage nature reserves. The Lanzerac runs regular shuttles to the town, where tourists can visit the galleries, museums and points of interest on foot or by bicycle.
There is an abundance of gourmet activities and outlets in this town. Be sure to visit WILD PEACOCK EMPORIUM, if not for a sumptuous breakfast or lunch, then to stock up on gourmet items – this is where chefs shop. YAYA CAFE is another must-see. Of the 25 plated restaurants in the 2019 JHP Gourmet Guide™, there is two-plated Indochine at DELAIRE GRAFF ESTATE, and one-plated CAVALLI, JORDAN RESTAURANT, RUST EN VREDE AND TERROIR. Be sure to book in advance.
Stellenbosch Tourism Office: www.stellenbosch-info.co.za +27 (0) 21 883 3584
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The village people
Linden has become the trendiest foodie hotspot in Jozi
Free State farmer Johannes Jacobus Rabie van der Linde bought the land in the late 1890s because it was so fertile. It was only after the Boer War ended that he started selling off plots of land – small holdings for fruit and vegetable farming. In fact, at one stage Linden was home to one of the largest dairies in South Africa. This is according to area historian and DA ward counsellor Tim Truluck, who says in the 1950s it became known as ‘Boere Houghton’ as it became home to many elite Afrikaners. The area has become one of the trendiest suburbs with the influx of more than 26 restaurants and shops – including breakfast favourites like The Whippet and Gravity Café as well as Brian Lara Rum Eatery and Choo Choo Junction for after-work drinks.
The suburb remains a juxtaposition of old and new, including familyowned businesses like Arthur Bales haberdashery established in 1902, situated opposite more modern additions like production company, Red Pepper Pictures. Touted as one of the suburb’s best gourmet experiences, Van Der Linde (VDL) is named after its founding farmer and is open all day. The restaurant has gained its reputational edge by going for posh decor and by adding a few interesting dishes to the hearty menu, which features traditional favourites like burgers, steak or fish and chips, and some exotic salads. Try the harissa-grilled paneer with roasted pumpkin breyani, chickpea and black bean burger, or lamb gnocchi. Another popular spot is the gin bar Tonic – for cocktails and G&Ts as well as light snacks. Next door the newlyopened wine bar and eatery, Tanen (Turkish spelling for tannin), dishes up Middle Eastern-inspired food. You’ll find little delights like duck baklava
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Images by Dylan Swart and Trevor Crichton
It’s hard to imagine that there were only fruit trees and orchards growing in Linden 80 years ago, and that the area was considered ‘out of town’ – at 8km northwest of the CBD with only dirt tracks to get there.
VAN DER LINDE
30 with pistachio cream and veggie treats like cauliflower ‘steak’ with sumac and artichoke puree. The small menu also features beef, lamb and citrus-cured fish so there’s something for everyone. A highlight is the wine cocktail menu and some highly unusual wines that have been sought out by the bar’s wine-aficionado owners, Caitlin and Dennis Human. If you’re nervous about ordering a whole bottle, try the ‘wine harvest table’ – all the boutique wines on offer by the glass at R50. Van Der Linde: 50 4th Avenue, Linden, Randburg | 010 594 5443 Tonic: 32 7th Street, Linden, Johannesburg | 087 238 4623
PRON (People’s Republic of Noodles) is sister restaurant to the muchcelebrated traditional Chinese Red Chamber in Hyde Park. This casual but contemporary noodle bar serves only tapas and homemade noodle dishes. 69 7th Street, Linden, Randburg 011 782 1736 Gravity Café for build-your-own breakfasts, quality coffee, super fruit juices and light meals in a quirky shopping strip that offers both inside and outside seating. 51 4th Avenue, Linden, Johannesburg 011 888 3810
Tanen: 32 7th Street, Linden, Randburg | 087 238 4623
Paputzi’s to enjoy homely Afrikaansinspired fare in a comfortable old home. Outside you will see old peach trees hailing back to the early 1900s, when Linden was a fruit-farming area.
Look out for…
Cheese Gourmet for an exciting range of speciality cheeses, both local and imported. The artisanal sourdough and ciabatta loaves are highly recommended, and there are lots of delicious deli offerings and light meals on offer. 3rd Avenue, 71A 7th Street, Linden, Johannesburg | 011 888 5384
69 4th Avenue, Linden, Johannesburg 011 782 9393 The Argentinian Bakery & Coffee Shop is much loved by locals for its affordable meals and pastries. Corner 4th Avenue and 7th Streets, Linden, Johannesburg 011 888 9759
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CHEF AMORI BURGER OF VDL
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Salsify THE ROUNDHOUSE REJUVENATED
SALSIFY IS A ROOT VEGETABLE, UGLY ON THE OUTSIDE BUT ALIVE WITH POSSIBILITIES. AN APT NAME FOR A RESTAURANT. SATISFY TOO MAY HAVE BEEN AN OPTION. “Chefs express themselves through food,” says head chef and operating partner Ryan Cole, aged 29. He is shy, humble and happy to be in a closed kitchen after his years in the limelight of the open kitchen of the world-famous Test Kitchen restaurant, working alongside Luke Dale Roberts. Flavours are discreet and delicate, subtle yet sumptuous. Ryan is deriving great joy from working with a forager to source ingredients from the mountainside on which The Roundhouse building is perched.
The spring minestrone with octopus, oyster and sea herbs provides a gentle start. The main dish of aged beef sirloin with onion gravy, porcini pudding and burnt turnip is more robust. Or try the spice-fired tuna with smoked tomato and lemon atchar. Desserts like the roasted pineapple, coconut cake and goats’ kefir ice cream, and the strawberry scone with blueberry jam and Champagne jelly are sure to appeal to those who do not like very sweet endings. Wines are perfectly paired with each dish. The building boasts a dubious past, from home to hotel, and now from tearoom to fine dining destination. Décor is sublime – cutting edge and dramatic with eye-catching detail.
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Images by Justin Patrick
With sumptuous views of the Atlantic Ocean, the historic, former coach house of Sir Lord Charles Somerset, Governor of the Cape in the 1800s, has been transformed into a chic, exciting part of the Luke Dale Roberts kingdom.
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: MARKUS FIEDLER, RYAN COLE AND LUKE DALE ROBERTS. Look carefully at the street-art guru’s nod to the heritage. Sandalene Dale Roberts has been clever, respectfully including the history in the graffiti on the walls, created by street artist Louis de Villiers, aka Skull Boy, a South African working in New York. Otto du Plessis’s 1.3m bronze sculpture is an arresting welcome – the dramatic half-game bird, half-woman sculpture that stops diners in their tracks as they enter the circular space. Vintage Persian rugs are juxtaposed with chairs created for design aficionadas, crafted in Sandalene’s factory. “Because it’s a significant historical building, we couldn’t and didn’t want to change its bones. We chose to amplify its history with really modern touches juxtaposed with nods to the past and plenty of surprises too,” says Sandalene.
There is a stellar team at the helm along with three-plated Luke Dale Roberts. GM Markus Fiedler, who handled the operation at The Test Kitchen with professional charm and aplomb, is joined by sommelier Nash Kanyangarara, to ensure that every diner has an unforgettable experience, from welcome to departure. Salsify at The Roundhouse is open from Tuesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner. Address: The Roundhouse, Roundhouse Road, Camps Bay, Cape Town Tel: 021 010 6444 Website: www.salsify.co.za
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Haute performance
“To give real service you must add something which cannot be bought or measured with money, and that is sincerity and integrity.” Douglas Adams
GOOD SERVICE IS ALL ABOUT HAVING A GOOD ATTITUDE, WANTING TO MAKE A DINER HAPPY. ONE GOOD EXAMPLE AND SHINING STAR IS WAITER CHRISTIAAN NDAYA. Christiaan used to work in a quaint little coffee shop on the Atlantic seaboard in Cape Town, where he could be seen welcoming guests, carrying babies on his hip and generally doing whatever it took to make patrons happy. Chris became part of the community, and hailing from the DRC, used his French to teach students in the area in his free time. He also made an effort to learn as much about coffee as possible whilst there. When the coffee shop closed, he was able to secure a position as a waiter at Den Anker in the V&A Waterfront, where he was determined to yet again always ensure good
service, whilst learning about beer. He has completed the three-day Jordan’s wine course, and is earnestly increasing his knowledge of, and passion for wine. Christiaan is keen to continue on the journey of learning about beverages. What next, we ask? “Whisky,” he says, with that characteristic grin.
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Gourmet Guide recipes GUAVAS AND CUSTARD DESSERT (PAGE 40) BY CHEF CHRISTIAAN CAMPBELL OF THE WERF RESTAURANT
HAUTE CUISINE
40 GUAVAS AND CUSTARD DESSERT INGREDIENTS Brown-bread burnt-butter ice cream 2C cream 2C full-cream milk 2 slices sourdough bread, toasted 1C sugar 6 egg yolks pinch salt 125g butter Frangipane crumble 50g unsalted butter 60g (80ml) sugar 1 egg 30g (50ml) cake flour 125g ground almonds pinch of salt Poached guavas 9 ripe guavas 2C sugar 3C water 2 cardamom pods 1 cinnamon stick 2 star anise 2 cloves Vanilla custard 2C cream 2C milk 12 egg yolks 1C sugar pinch of salt 1t vanilla essence or ½t vanilla paste Spice sprinkle 4 cardamom pods 2 cinnamon sticks 4 cloves
41 4 star anise 1 vanilla pod 100g castor sugar METHOD Brown-bread burnt-butter ice cream 1 Bring the cream and milk to a boil and take off the heat. 2 Slice the toasted bread into rough pieces and add to the hot milk/cream. 3 Cover the pot with clingwrap and leave the milk to infuse for 30 minutes. 4 Strain the bread out of the milk and discard. Bring the milk to a boil again. 5 In a separate bowl, whisk the sugar, egg yolks and salt together. 6 Pour some of the hotmilk mixture over the yolk mixture and whisk. 7 Pour everything back into the pot and over low heat, cook the mixture until it coats the back of a spoon, or reaches 84°C. 8 Strain the mixture through a sieve and set aside. 9 Melt the butter over low heat, keep it on the heat once melted, the milk solids in the butter will start caramelizing and turn brown. Once it is a dark brown, remove the butter from the stove and strain through an oil filter (a coffee filter works just as well at home). 10 With a handheld blender running, slowly pour the melted butter into the ice-cream mixture. Blend until all the butter has been incorporated. 11 Churn the ice-cream mixture in an ice cream churner according to the manufacturer's instructions. Frangipane crumble 1 Preheat the oven to 160°C. 2 Cream the butter and sugar together till light
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and fluffy in a stand or handheld mixer. 3 Add the egg and mix through. 4 Add the cake flour, ground almonds and salt and mix through. 5 Spread the mixture on a baking tray and bake for 10 minutes. 6 Take a fork and break the mixture up to form a rough crumble. 7 Return to the oven and bake a further 10 minutes. Repeat the process with the fork to break up the mixture. 8 The end result should be an even, light-brown colour, so if it needs an extra 5 minutes in the oven, then return it to the oven once more. Set aside to cool down. Poached guavas 1 Peel the guavas and half them. 2 Bring the sugar and water to a boil over medium-high heat, together with the spices. 3 Once it has come to the boil, add the guava halves. 4 Let it just come back to the boil, and immediately take it off the heat, let the guavas cool down in the hot syrup. Vanilla custard 1 Bring the cream and milk together to a boil. 2 Whisk the egg yolks, sugar, salt and vanilla together. 3 Pour some of the hot milk over the egg mixture and whisk. 4 Pour everything back into the pot and cook over low heat until the mixture coats the back of a spoon or reaches 84°C. Take care that the mixture does not start boiling, it will split. 5 Immediately pour the mixture through a sieve into a bowl and cover the surface of the custard with clingwrap to prevent a skin from forming.
Spice sprinkle 1 Heat the oven to 160°C. 2 Put the spices, including the vanilla pod, on a baking tray and toast in the oven for 7 to 10 minutes. Let the spices cool down. 3 Put it all together in a spice grinder and grind till fine. 4 Add the castor sugar to the spices and put the mixture in a spice shaker. PLATING 1 Remove the pips from the guavas if preferred and quarter them. 2 Divide the frangipane crumble between 6 bowls. 3 Put a scoop of the brownbread burnt-butter ice cream onto the crumble in each bowl. 4 Place the guavas in a big bowl with some of the syrup and spices. 5 Pour the custard in a jug. 6 Put a bowl with crumble and ice cream in front of each guest and let them help themselves to guavas and custard. 7 Lastly, send around the spice shaker for each guest to sprinkle some over their dessert. Serves 6
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43 BUTTERMILK PANNA COTTA, STRAWBERRY JUICE, FUDGED WHITE CHOCOLATE SORBET AND GERANIUM OIL INGREDIENTS Buttermilk panna cotta 262ml cream 262ml buttermilk 75ml plain low-fat yoghurt 90g sugar 2 leaves gelatine
Fudged white chocolate sorbet 1 Preheat oven to 150°C. 2 Place 220g chopped white chocolate in an oven tray and allow to melt slowly, stirring in 5 minute intervals until the white chocolate turns a golden caramel colour. 3 Place milk and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. 4 Remove from the heat and add the bloomed gelatine and fudged chocolate and stir until the chocolate has melted. 5 Leave the mixture overnight in the fridge to set and using an ice-cream machine to churn in the morning.
Fudged white chocolate sorbet 220g fudged white chocolate 375ml milk 1T sugar ž bloomed gelatine leaf Strawberry juice 300g frozen strawberries 2T castor sugar
Strawberry juice 1 Put the frozen strawberries in a fine sieve over a plastic jug and sprinkle the castor sugar on top. 2 Leave this in the fridge overnight so all the clear strawberry juice runs out.
Geranium oil 100ml canola oil handful of geranium leaves Garnish fresh strawberries geranium leaves
CHEF TRONETTE DIPPENAAR OF ORIGINS RESTAURANT
4 Cool the whole mixture over an ice-water bath stirring occasionally to prevent a skin from forming. 5 Pour into moulds and set overnight in the fridge.
METHOD Buttermilk panna cotta 1 Place all the ingredients in a saucepan besides the gelatine and scald over medium heat. Remove from the heat. 2 Place the gelatine sheets in ice water to bloom. 3 Add the bloomed gelatine to the hot buttermilk mixture and stir till the gelatine has melted.
Geranium oil 1 Heat the canola oil and add the geranium leaves. 2 Allow the mixture to infuse overnight. 3 Blend it in the morning and strains through a fine sieve. Garnish 1 Garnish with fresh strawberries and geranium leaves. Serves 8
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PICKLED FISH TACOS
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CHEF KERRY KILPIN OF BISTRO SIXTEEN82
METHOD Salsa 1 Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and season to taste.
INGREDIENTS Salsa 150g tomatoes, chopped 1 red onion, finely chopped 25g coriander, chopped 1T olive oil salt and pepper
Pickled Cape bream 1 In a pan over a medium heat, add 1T oil and gently sautĂŠ the onions until translucent. 2 Add the ginger, garlic and spices and fry gently for a few minutes, until fragrant. 3 Add the vinegar and sugar and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Simmer for 20 minutes. 4 Thicken with corn flour to a nice coating consistency. Season to taste. 5 Season the flour. Dust the fish with it and pat off any excess. 6 Heat 1T oil in a heavy-based frying pan and, when hot, fry the fish until golden. 7 Place a layer of fish in a deep, sterile glass or non-metallic container and pour a little of the hot sauce over it, to cover. 8 Continue layering fish and sauce until all the fish is covered. 9 Cool, then chill until ready to serve. Best made at least 24 hours in advance.
Pickled Cape bream 2T sunflower oil for frying 3 onions, chopped 1t ginger, grated 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1t whole cumin 1t coriander seeds, toasted and crushed 2t fish spice 3 bay leaves 1t turmeric 1t mild curry powder 2C white vinegar 150g sugar 2t cornflour flour, for dusting 1kg Cape bream, cut into portions salt and black pepper For plating 12 wonton wrappers – deep fried and shaped to form a shell 50g wild rocket 200ml aioli coriander leaves
PLATING 1 Flake the pickled fish and combine with the onions and a little sauce. Season to taste. 2 Fill the taco shells with a little wild rocket, pickled fish and top with salsa and aioli. 3 Garnish with fresh coriander leaves. Serves 12 as a starter
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METHOD Duck 1 Sear and cook medium rare at 180°C for 5 minutes till medium rare. Golden beetroot puree 1 Wash beetroots to remove any garden dirt. 2 Place on a piece of foil, drizzle with olive oil, Maldon salt and thyme. 3 Wrap the beetroots in tin foil and bake in oven at 180°C till soft. 4 Remove from oven, peel the beetroots, and blend till smooth, creating a puree.
DUCK, BEETROOT AND POPPED SORGHUM
Salt-baked roasted beetroots 1 Combine egg whites and salt to form a paste. 2 Cover each beetroots in 2cm layer. 3 Place in a tray with a little water covered with tin foil. 4 Bake in oven for 45 minutes on 180°C till soft. 5 Crack open the salt crust and peel the red and golden beetroots. 6 Dice the red beetroots.
INGREDIENTS Duck 2 duck breasts 10g beetroot powder
Image by Andrea Evans
Golden beetroot puree 6 baby golden beetroots olive oil Maldon salt thyme Salt-baked roasted beetroots 2 egg whites 350g salt 350g large red beetroots 250g golden baby beetroots olive oil thyme CHEF JANE-THERESE MULRY OF QUNU RESTAURANT
Popped sorghum 100ml vegetable oil 50g sorghum
Popped sorghum 1 Heat a pan and add oil. 2 Pour in sorghum and place lid on, allowing grains to pop to form popcorn. PLATING 1 Slice rested duck in half, and dust beetroot powder as per picture within a stencil. 2 Place remaining ingredients as per picture and garnish with leaves of red vein sorrel and dianthus petals. Serves 2
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48 SICILIAN SEAFOOD STEW
Image by Bianca Davies
INGREDIENTS 2T good olive oil 2 medium leeks, sliced thinly 4 garlic cloves, chopped 1 medium fennel bulb, sliced thinly 2C fresh fish stock 2 tins Italian tomatoes 2T tomato paste handful cherry tomatoes coarsely ground black pepper pink salt žt dried chilli 1C pitted green olives 225g line fish or kingklip, cut into pieces 450g fresh mussels 225g clams 450g prawns 225g calamari 50ml white wine lemon zest chopped Italian parsley METHOD 1 Heat oil in a large pan. Add leeks, garlic and fennel, cook until soft. 2 Stir in fish stock, tomatoes and tomato paste. 3 Season with salt, pepper and dried chilli. 4 Bring to boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes. 5 Add fish, mussels, clams and prawns, and lastly the calamari and wine. 6 Add lemon zest and parsley, then simmer on reduced heat for 30 minutes. 7 Serve over couscous or with crusty garlic ciabatta. Serves 8
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CHEF LOUISE CASTLE OF BELLAGIO RESTAURANT
50 CURED RAINBOW TROUT, TROUT CRACKLING, SUNFLOWER SEEDS, TURNIPS, RADISH, CAVIAR AND CHARDONNAY CREME INGREDIENTS Cured rainbow trout, 4 portions 100g salt 50g sugar 20g chopped fennel fronds 400g rainbow trout fillets, skin removed and reserve for trout crackling zest of 1 lemon Rainbow trout crackling reserved skin from trout Sunflower seeds 300g sunflower seeds 220g water 30g chopped fennel fronds Turnips 4 baby turnips Radish 4 radishes Chardonnay creme 1C Tokara Chardonnay 1C fish stock 300ml cream 1t nutritional yeast salt and white pepper to taste Garnish radish micros ½t caviar per portion
51 METHOD Cured rainbow trout 1 Combine salt, sugar, zest, fennel in a bowl. 2 Place trout in nonreactive tray and rub and cover salt mixture on both sides. 3 Cure for 2 hours. 4 Rinse briefly and pat dry. 5 Portion into 80g rectangular pieces and reserve. 6 Heat at 200°C for 1 ½ minutes when ready to serve.
RICHARD CARSTENS FORMER CHEF OF TOKARA RESTAURANT
Rainbow trout crackling 1 Preheat oven to 100°C. 2 Scrape and clean skin with a sharp knife. 3 Place on silpat, cover with another silpat and bake for 1 hour. 4 Cool down and then deepfry at 18°0 C till crisp. 5 Drain on paper towel and gently break into pieces. Sunflower seeds 1 Place seeds and water in a pressure cooker and cook on a low heat for 18 minutes. 2 Strain and cool. 3 Reheat with touch of cream and chopped fennel when ready to serve. Turnips 1 Blanch in salted water till cooked. 2 Peel and reheat gently in olive oil. Radish 1 Thinly sliced on mandoline and brushed with olive oil Chardonnay creme 1 On a stovetop, reduce Chardonnay by ⅔. 2 Add fish stock and reduce by ½. 3 Add cream and reduce to desired consistency. 4 Season with yeast, salt and pepper. Serves 4
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Hands-on cookery courses around the globe SICILY 55 OXFORDSHIRE 56 PERU 57 VIETNAM 59 MEXICO 60 MOROCCO 61 ITALY 62 SOUTH AFRICA 63 HAUTE COOKING
55 COOK, CONNECT AND LEARN One of the most stimulating and engaging ways in which one can experience the culture of a country is through food, especially in a hands-on cookery course. From five-star hotels to simple, home kitchens, there is something for everyone.
Sicily
SICILIAN COOKING CLASS MEET CHEF MASSIMO TOMARCHIO at the Porto Messina gate for a tour of the small local market and the finer points about selecting the freshest ingredients. A short walk to a local restaurant and you will soon be cooking many delicious dishes – mussels cooked without wine (drink the wine, do not cook the mussels with it, he urges), onions roasted in salt, and delicious caponata. Making fresh macaroni with a skewer (or bicycle spoke or knitting needle), letting it rest and then cooking it for just eight
minutes and serving with a tomato sauce and breadcrumbs, is made effortless. Massimo’s heart beats to his grandmother’s recipes, and he shares an avalanche of interesting information whilst chopping, stirring and instructing. These fun, five-hour, interactive classes are filled most days of the week in season. Leave with copies of his grandmother’s recipes, and the need to walk off a wonderful meal that has been shared with like-minded food-lovers.
Cooking classes and market tours are available Monday to Saturday and begin at 9:00am. To book email info@siciliancookingclass.com or phone +39 347 268 6442. HAUTE COOKING
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Peru
PERUVIAN COOKING IN LIMA
Oxfordshire THE RAYMOND BLANC COOKERY SCHOOL
RAYMOND BLANC OBE, the iconic Michelin-starred chef, has a cookery school at Belmond Le Manoir aux QuatSaisons (meaning manor of four seasons) in Oxfordshire. His long-time friend, former apprentice and now esteemed colleague, director Mark Peregrine, leads a variety of courses from introductory to advanced, offering both half days and residential programmes. The one-
day chocolate course is a must. Don your chef’s jacket, pair up and create a variety of advanced chocolate creations. Like true chocolate aficionadas you will learn the art of chocolate tempering. The chefs serve a rustic lunch in the kitchen for you, and if you are lucky, you will get to meet Raymond Blanc himself. You will leave with recipes and sponsored cooking equipment.
To book, email reservations.mqs@belmond.com or call +44 1844 278881. HAUTE HEADING COOKING
CHEF HECTOR AGUILAR VALLE, a keen culinary adventurer, runs Lima's most popular Peruvian cooking school.
Meet Hector at the local market to discover unique ingredients like pisco grapes and big custard apples, and meet locals like Herica, who runs a chebicheria (seafood lunchtime restaurant). This engaging and informative host will whisk you off to his humble home down an alleyway in the suburb of Miraflores. The slow beat of traditional music welcomes wannabe chefs who spend a few hours together
at cooking stations in the garden. Hector demonstrates, all the while commentating on the interesting culture and history of Peruvian food, then you follow. Influences of the Incas, Spanish, Nikkei (Japanese), Chifa (Chinese), Creole, African and Italian have made it what it is today. Practical tips for working with chillies are interspersed with the making of ceviche, tiger’s milk, scallops with yellow pepper sauce and a seafood and sweet potato stack with olive mayo. Brother Alvaro will create chilcanos and pisco sours cocktails, which fuels lively conversation.
A morning and evening class (including a recipe booklet), with a choice of four menus and the option of a pick-up and the market tour (a must). Book online www.peruviancookingclasses.com/node/57 or phone +51 970 827 247.
59 ANIMATED CONVERSATION WITH OTHER TOURISTS IS PART OF THE APPEAL, AND BY THE TIME YOU EAT YOUR RESULTS, YOU WILL HAVE MADE FRIENDS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD.
Vietnam MS VY, HOI AN
A HIGHLIGHT OF A HOLIDAY in the charming town of Hoi An should include a cookery course with world-renowned Ms Vy. Television chef and restaurateur, she is an animated and bubbly guide. The morning starts with a tour around the local market, where you will discover unusual ingredients. She will share how the local ladies shop in the morning and afternoon, as they have no refrigeration at home. They eat in the streets, on their haunches, and when
their tummies touch their knees they know it is time to share the food with someone else. The cookery course is slick and organized, with plenty of pre-prep done before you arrive at your cooking station. In pairs you will conjure up local dishes that are full of punchy flavour. Animated conversation with other tourists is part of the appeal, and by the time you eat your results, you will have made friends from all over the world.
After your course head off to one of her restaurants – The Cargo Clu, Vy’s Market Restaurant, Morning Glory or Vy’s Kitchen and Deli. To book a cookery course email contact@tastevietnam.asia or phone +84 235 391 1227. HAUTE COOKING
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Mexico RIVIERA'S KITCHEN TULUM
RIVIERA’S KITCHEN TULUM is where Lily Espinoza takes tourists through the basics of native ‘people of the corn’ cooking, using family recipes to prepare an authentic Mexican meal in a group. Learn how to make tortillas, tomato salsa and guacamole, interspersed with secret tips and family tales. Her culinary pearls of wisdom are given freely, and are invaluable.
At the end of the cookery class you will sit around the table together to enjoy the fruits of your labour, along with a ‘jarrito de agua fresca de Jamaica’, cold beer and mescal. If you interrogate her, Lily will part with local information on where to buy indigenous ingredients. If you charm her you may even be invited to venture into the smaller streets of Tulum to eat with her and the locals that night.
Morocco HEURE BLEUE PALAIS, ESSOURIA
Lily’s cooking classes can be booked via www.riverakitchentulum.com or phone +52 984 129 2690.
HEURE BLEUE PALAIS, a unique house on the coast of Morocco in Essouria, a sought-after Relais & Châteaux property, is where you can enter into the world of Moroccan cuisine. Chef Ahmed Handour, passionate about Oriental cuisine, offers classes that provide an intimate opportunity to be exposed to his knowledge and a thousand flavours. The programme includes the practical sessions about traditional cuisine, with the option for more advanced cooks to learn tricks and techniques along the way.
He shares information about balancing tradition and innovation, plus get tips on where to buy the best spices. Others wanted to know more about ingredients unique to Morocco like Argan oil and which spices go into his Ras el Hanout. This combination of up to 35 spices is unique to each chef, creates a distinctive flavour, and is known as ‘top of the house’. Prepare dishes like sardine tagine with courgettes in tomato sauce laced with garlic, harissa, preserved lemon, salt and pepper.
Special demonstration and tasting for groups (8 to 12 persons). To book email info@heure-bleue.com or phone +212 0 524 78 34 34. HAUTE COOKING
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Italy
GOOD TASTES OF TUSCANY After a cooking course with GOOD TASTES OF TUSCANY you will have olive oil flowing through your veins and wish to live La Dolce Vita. Convivial and engaging chefs meet participants at the bustling Mercato Centrale in the heart of the San Lorenzo street market of Florence. Learn about local ingredients then set off for a scenic half-hour drive to
medieval Villa Pandolfini on the outskirts of the town. The villa, erected in the 1200s as a hunting lodge, is the inviting space where family recipes are shared and prepared together. A sumptuous Tuscan meal with fine local wines around a table of new friends, may even be spiced with an aria or two! Aprons and a recipe books are included in the immersion course.
Visit www.tuscany-cooking-class.com to book or phone +39 335 689 8344.
South Africa THERE IS SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE
AFRICAN RELISH, PRINCE ALFRED Consider their ‘Anytime cooking’ courses such as ‘Karoo Classics’ or ‘Vegetarian’, which are half or full-day classes. Masterclass weekend courses with invited chefs are popular too. There are also longer courses, part of longer culinary and special interest retreats, like their cycle tour or yoga retreat. Email virna@africanrelish.com or phone 023 541 1381.
COOKING COOKS, DURBAN Chef Debbie Solomon in Westville, Durban, offers fun, interactive cooking classes. The focus is on creating fabulous meals without spending too many hours in the kitchen. Book for an unforgettable cooking experience and produce delicious food that will stimulate your palate.
Email info@cookingcooks.co.za or phone 082 543 0543.
FLAVOURS OF SUSAN GREIG, JOHANNESBURG Monthly inspirational courses in the heart of Jozi, Sandton. A new theme is introduced every month, with six recipes per course being demonstrated. These courses are an experience for people who have a basic food knowledge, want to hone their skills, extend their repertoire and learn how easy it is to make simple, delicious food.
BO-KAAP COOKING TOUR, CAPE TOWN Benefit from an educational, fun experience and inspiring insights into the Cape Malay culture in BoKaap. Your host and guide Zainie will entertain you with stories of the food and culture whilst cooking. End off with a sit-down lunch. You’ll leave inspired, with a recipe booklet and bag of Zainie's special Masala mix for your first curry meal.
Email bookings@greig.co.za or phone 083 616 0136.
Email zainie@bokaapcookingtour.co.za to find out more.
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“The seasons are hard to follow, constantly fluctuating and unpredictable, so we follow the ingredients instead,” says twoplated chef Michael Cooke of Camphors at Vergelegen.
From MANGOES to MANGE TOUT, there is something to delight every fresh-loving palate in summer. Deciduous fruits, also known as stone fruits, add a new dimension to the fruit bowl. Luscious APRICOTS, PEACHES, NECTARINES AND PLUMS are a worthy addition to a salad, simply yet well teamed with cheese and something crunchy.
Images by Jenny Handley
What's in season
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With most fruits and vegetables being available all-year round in supermarkets, there is a lot of confusion about when they are fresh. Take a walk around an organic market to see them at their prime and remember when filling your basket that they do not need to match! Often the ugly, slightly misshapen produce have the most robust flavour.
ASPARAGUS, ARTICHOKES, BEANS, MUSHROOMS, PEPPERS, SPINACH, TOMATOES AND WATERCRESS are at their best at the start of summer. Vegetables like BEET, AUBERGINES, BABY CORN, MARROW AND PATTY PANS come to the fore in the hot month of January. At their peak in a fruit bowl are POMEGRANATES, used optimally in sweet and savoury dishes. BANANAS may be available all year round, but it is in summer that they are fresh and the most nutritious, like their tropical siblings LITCHIS, GUAVAS AND MANGOES. The berries fare well in the festive season and carry through to Valentine’s Day. FIGS are a welcome addition to any course, and when there is a deluge of them, why not preserve your own? February sees MEALIES, PEARS, RADISHES, RED ONIONS AND RHUBARB shining. Try combining the mealies, radishes and red onions in a zingy chopped salad with a chilli, lime and ginger dressing.
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Want to know what sexy chefs wear when cooking? Sexy socks, made of 100% bamboo, with avocados, lobsters, pineapples and fishermen – or one of the many other sexy designs. You can too – visit www.sexysockssa.com for details. For every pair of Sexy Socks sold, a pair of school socks is given to a child in need.
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DOWNLOAD THE APP. ENJOY CONVENIENCE.
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Summer FOR AN EFFERVESCENT
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Manley Communications
Take your pick from these sparkling wines, perfect to pair for festive feasts through to the month-of-love picnics.
WIN!
ONE OF TWO MIXED CASES OF PIERRE JOURDAN BRUT AND BELLE ROSE SEE OUR SOCIAL MEDIA FOR DETAILS
1 PIERRE JOURDAN MÉTHODE CAP CLASSIQUE BRUT produced by Haute Cabrière estate is a classic blend of Chardonnay, contributing elegance, and Pinot Noir which contributes intensity and richness. TASTING NOTES: delicate, yeasty aromas on the nose which developed during maturation on the lees. This is complemented by fresh, citrus flavours and a crisp acidity. Best paired with: lighter fish dishes, oysters and salads with goats’ cheese, but can handle creamy sauces and pastas too.
HAUTE SUMMER
2 ALLÉE BLEUE MCC BRUT 2014 is a classic blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay making it a true MCC. A bouquet of toasted nuts, brioche, candyfloss and citrus speak of the passion involved in making a wine of such class. TASTING NOTES: the palate is rich and complex, with classic flavours of baked bread and marzipan. Best paired with: poached chicken in a saffron sauce or served with a seafood platter. 3 KLEINE ZALZE MÉTHODE CAP CLASSIQUE VINTAGE BRUT 2011 is a classically-styled sparkling wine crafted from the best, selected vineyard parcels of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir. Intense and rich, this full-bodied wine delivers a tantalizing dance of fine bubbles, elegance and balance. TASTING NOTES: freshly baked brioche and biscotti aromas with a rich lees-creaminess and a tantalizing mineral richness. Best paired with: oysters and fresh fish, particularly grilled tuna.
4 BOTTEGA IL VINO DELL’AMORE PETALO PINK MANZONI MOSCATO ROSÉ is a delightful, light sparkling wine, characterized by its distinctive sweet taste. TASTING NOTES: sweet and fragrant with hints of rose, raspberry and spicy notes of sage, thyme and marjoram. Best paired with: desserts of the Italian and international cuisine. 5 PLAISIR DE MERLE GRAND BRUT 2016 is an elegant and distinctive Méthode Cap Classique, made in the classic French tradition from two noble varietals, 56% Chardonnay and 44% Pinot Noir. Awarded with a gold medal at the prestigious Michelangelo International Wine & Spirits Awards, Plaisir de Merle is renowned as a producer of exceptional wines. TASTING NOTES: foamy mouth-feel with toasty notes and citrus, honey and tropical nuances imparted by the Chardonnay whilst the Pinot Noir provides the flavours of fresh red fruit. Best paired with: seafood such as oysters, scallops and seafood platters.
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A few of my favourite things
In every edition we will track down legendary chefs, sommeliers and service professionals to share some of their favourites. Let us know what you want to know and we will ask them!
home on a Monday when all the kids are at school and my wife is at work – have the house all to myself!
Blending passion, pride and knowledge, MOSES MDUDUZI, sommelier at three-plated Restaurant Mosaic, is deserving of every accolade and acknowledgment that he has received in his tenure at this iconic establishment.
READ The first book will have to be a bible. I’m a Christian, my mom has thought me about the bible since I was very young. The second one is Dead in the Water by a South African writer Irna van Zyl.
FESTIVE DISH Duck with cherries, beetroot puree and cherry sauce. Chef Chantel Dartnall from Restaurant Mosaic serves this dish on her current menu, it is something out of this world. PLACE OF RELAXATION There’s no better place to relax than at HAUTE FAVOURITES
Image by Marsel Roothman
FOOD FRAGRANCE Nothing is better than smelling than the freshly baked bread in the early hours of the morning.
TRAVEL DESTINATION France, what a beautiful country. If I could I would go to France at any time – the winelands, beautiful castles and the history behind them. I just love it. TIME OF THE DAY Tuesday afternoon from 12, it’s wine o’clock. It is our experimental day where the chef will present new dishes
and the sommeliers team presents the wines which can possibly go with the dish. We also taste new wines that are new in the cellar. QUOTE “The most difficult thing is the decision to act, the rest is merely tenacity. The fears are paper Tigers. You can do anything you decide to do. You can act to change and control your life, and the process is its own reward,” Amelia Earhart. CANNOT LIVE WITHOUT My children. They are the most beautiful thing that ever happened to my life.
HAUTE HEADING FAVOURITES
Leading restaurants that earned Michelin stars while still in his 20s, awards are nothing new to lauded chef GIORGIO DIANA.
TRAVEL DESTINATION My travel destination is always different. I divide my vacation between Germany, Russia and Italy. Awarded as one of the world’s finest in the Best Chefs Awards in 2018 and currently the executive chef for Pier 88 restaurant group, he chats to the Gourmet Guide team about a few of his favourite things.
QUOTE I always have my special quote, “Do what you love and love what you do, always.”
FESTIVE DISH Right now, in Egypt, we are in winter and of course can’t miss the lamb rack with celery, chestnut puree, carrots and thyme jus.
CAREER HIGHLIGHT I have many career highlights. My career began in Europe and then progressed around the world with the Michelin restaurants where I was working. This was before WACS (World Association of Chefs' Societies), working as an international judge with events with the best chefs worldwide. Right now, I am in Egypt - here they don’t have any culture about food and wine (unfortunately) – but I’m still in the Best Chef Awards list for 2018 at number 235.
PLACE OF RELAXATION My place of relaxation is the sea.
CANNOT LIVE WITHOUT My wife and cooking.
FOOD FRAGRANCE My favourite fragrance is of course the fragrance of the fresh seasonal fruits and vegetables.
HAUTE FAVOURITES
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Haute and happening There are many doors opening in the restaurant scene – let us know what you think of these, and any others you may know of!
In CAPE TOWN the Luke Dale Roberts empire has expanded with The Test Kitchen’s former head chef, Ryan Cole, opening Salsify at The Roundhouse. Look out for the Commissary, next to the Shortmarket Club, where oneplated chef Wesley Randles and Simon Widdison are keeping it casual. Chef Ash Heeger has closed Ash and reopened as Riverine Rabbit. Former chef of Chef’s Warehouse & Canteen, Graham Oldfield and his wife Phillipa, have wowed those seeking sensational Asian flavours at Bao Down, in Vredehoek.
All eyes on FYN in PARLIAMENT STREET, where three-plated chef Peter Tempelhof, with Ashley Moss and Jennifer Huge, have teamed up. If healthy is your desire, try Mary-Ann’s in MOUILLE POINT – health guru Mary-Ann Shearer has a large following who will be happy that she has now made this her home.
The WESTERN CAPE WINELANDS is now home to former head chef of Michelin-star restaurant JAN. Kevin Grobler has already added to the culinary flair of Franschhoek with his inventive dishes at Le Petit Manoir. The La Colombe stable has expanded to include Protégé, in Le Quartier Francais. Visit Bertus Basson’s Eike in STELLENBOSCH for a dinner experience that is truly, proudly South African. Also more casual, George Jardine has opened Restaurant Seven in SOMERSET WEST. Gåte is the new finedining venue at Quoin Rock wine estate – if 16 courses turn you on, head there. (Read the full review in the autumn edition) Santé Wellness Retreat, formerly Santé Winelands, is the perfect getaway to relax, rejuvenate and re-ignite your love of foods that are truly good for you.
HAUTE AND HAPPENING
JOZI has responded well to the opening of Saint – it’s where anyone who is anyone heads for drinks and sumptuous fare. Il Contadino is the newest in the James Diack string of respected restaurants, in Parktown North.
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Haute reads
Quivertree dish up mouthwatering, homegrown, locally crafted books for cooks. Their latest titles include:
1 Martjie Malan is a celebrated, successful baker and owner of a cookery school. BAKING SECRETS boasts beautiful watercolour illustrations by Claudia Liebenberg which bring her recipes to life in this book, available in English and Afrikaans, a must for any wannabee baker. Overflowing with inspiration, her repertoire of recipes is unintimidating as it covers techniques from easy to slightly more challenging. 2 EAT LEKKER, FOR GOODNESS’ SAKE, is Inè Reynierse’s third cookbook. This is a smart take on eating carefully, but well, with the seasons, to prevent disease. Smart-carb, grain-and sugarfree recipes abound. You will be inspired to change your way of eating, cooking, and thinking about food.
3 Louise Gelderbloem’s THE BOOK CLUB COOKBOOK, EAT YOUR WORDS, has been in reading and eating for 24 years. A ceramist who wishes to inspire cooks into confident cooking by pre-planning and preparation, she shares recipes for simple soups, antipasta and vegetarian recipes. 4 THE LAZY MAKOTI’S GUIDE TO THE KITCHEN by Mogau Seshoene is the result of four years of giving cookery classes, inspired by Instagram. A Makoti is a young married woman, bride or new wife. This is the perfect bible for her, simple and straightforward, enough to allow more couple time than kitchen time. From her mother’s kitchen to modern cooking, from morning after to leftovers, it will become indispensable.
HAUTE READS
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5 JUST ADD RICE pays homage to the culinary heritage of Taiwan in South Africa, celebrated with authenticity by author Ming-Cheau Lin. It’s more than a recipe book, it unveils a layer of East Asian cooking, plus the traditions and etiquette. Excellent to have included not only easy recipes, but also information on indigenous ingredients and substitutes. A visual feast too.
6 ÎLE DE PAÏN ANYTIME by chef Liezie Mulder is a personal reflection of a day in her legendary restaurant in Knysna. This, her second cookbook, takes you from breakfasts to in-betweeners, from lunches to late. Each recipe is part of a feast inspired by her home town, travels, heritage and memories. Look out for the Moroccan pie, the braaibroodjies and bread. Fresh, fun and uncomplicated.
HAUTE READS
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Launch
OF THE 2019 JHP GOURMET GUIDE™
In Europe, the UK and USA, Asia and South America it is the honour of Michelin stars to which restaurants and chefs aspire. One, two or three hat-awards keeps chefs in Australia producing world-class cuisine. In South Africa, it’s one, two or three plates that chefs proudly hang on their walls to show the world that they too have reached a pinnacle of their career.
One plate highlights exceptional cuisine, two plates are presented for exceptional dining that demands a detour, and three for a world-class dining experience that is worthy of a flight.
THE LAUNCH The launch of the 2019 guide, and announcement of the awarded and plated chefs and restaurants, took place on 29 October. Plated chefs were given plates and bespoke wine coolers in the shape of chefs’ toques crafted by Mervyn Gers Ceramics, and the five Haute Performance Award winners received a plate, and an artisanal mixer with a pasta maker from KitchenAid. All guests sipped Taittinger Champagne, appropriate for the effervescent celebration, and toasted the top chefs in SA.
GOURMET GUIDE LAUNCH
Images by Bevan Cockcroft
SOUTH AFRICA’S RESTAURANT PLATE RATING, WHICH EQUATES TO GLOBAL STANDARDS FOR EVALUATING AND REWARDING FINE-DINING ESTABLISHMENTS, HAS BEEN ACKNOWLEDGED FOR ITS IMPARTIALITY AND CREDIBILITY. PLATED CHEFS AND RESTAURANTS FEATURE IN THE ANNUAL, GLOSSY, KEEPSAKE JHP GOURMET GUIDE™, WITH THEIR RECIPES.
All crockery supplied by Mervyn Gers Ceramics
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AWARDS The inaugural Haute Performance Awards reward those who are creating footprints in the industry. The 2019 winners are Candice Philip of Grei (Haute Property), who was plated in 2018, Bertus Basson of Overture (Haute Passion), Adriaan Maree of Fermier (Haute Pride), Kobus van der Merwe of Wolfgat (Haute Provenance) and Liam Tomlin of Chefs Warehouse (Haute People). Trailblazer Luke Dale Roberts won the 2019 SWISS Culinary Innovation Award, to fly to Europe on SWISS Business, with a partner. Available in Woolworths and retails bookstores nationwide at R299. GOURMET GUIDE LAUNCH
Watch out for the autumn edition of the Gourmet Guide, bursting with seasonal recipes, bucket-list travel destinations and some more haute wins. To expose your brand to our haute audience contact us on rsvp@jhpr.co.za. www.gourmetguide.co.za