Salonfocus Autumn 2021 by National Hair & Beauty Federation

TH E ES SENTIAL M AGA ZI N E FO R SALO N OWN ERS

FROM CYBER SPACE TO SALON AUTUMN 2021

Is Amazon really a threat to salon owners?

P27: COMPASSION Choosing the right policies to support grieving employees

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P30: CHRISTMAS Are you ready to unwrap the wow factor this festive season?

P32: UPSKILLING Knowing when and how to train your workforce

P37: HIV What should your salon or barbershop know about the virus?

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contents

THE CUT 5

Hello and welcome President Ian Egerton reﬂects with joy and gratitutde over NHBF’s three trophy wins

The 9 things you need to know this issue Calls for regulation of injectables, staying alert to security threats, and the ultimate skills swap

THE BUSINESS

COV STORER Y

16 From cyber space to salon Following Amazon Salon’s physical launch in London this year, we examine if it really is a threat to the hair and beauty industry

20 Men’s mental health How the UK’s barbers are helping to tackle the mental health crisis in men

24 Apprenticeships The uptake of apprenticeships is in the doldrums, but are we at a pivotal turning point?

27 Compassion Why it’s never been more important to have bereavement policies in place

THE INSPIRATION 40 Tools of the trade

A snapshot look at the tools you can’t do without

42 What’s trending New products and the latest market trends: from skincare inﬂuencers to duck nails

44 How to... Build an online store to grow your business

30 Christmas How salon and barbershop owners can give clients that extra bit of magic this festive season

32 Upskilling employees Ensuring staff are up to date with training and new trends is essential, but how and when should you do it?

THE NHBF 46 Round-up Key news and messages from the NHBF, including our latest recruit and knowing your hair type

THE END

37 HIV

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Modern treatments have transformed living with HIV, so what does your salon need to know about the virus?

50 60 seconds with... Global barber and entrepreneur Sheldon Edwards a.k.a Mr HD

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HELLO A ND W ELCOME T HE CU T

NHBF PRESIDENT The magazine of the National Hair & Beauty Federation

IAN EGERTON

THE NHBF One Abbey Court Fraser Road Priory Business Park Bedford MK44 3WH 01234 831965 nhbf.co.uk sfenquiries@salonfocus.co.uk

CHIEF EXECUTIVE Richard Lambert

INTERIM DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Lucy Watson-Smith lucy.watson-smith@nhbf.co.uk 01234 834386

elcome to your Autumn issue of salonfocus. It’s with joy and gratitude we pay tribute to the NHBF’s recent well-deserved award wins. July’s National Association Awards ceremony was a big day for us, as we brought home three trophies: gold for Membership Organisation of the Year (1 to 10,000) and Best Social Media, and silver for Best Covid Response. It’s thanks to you that this has been achieved – without your continued support and engagement, we would not be the association we are, standing tall within our sector. With the industry back up and running, we will keep you up to date to ensure you have everything you need to run a legally sound, successful business. We’ve had to work together to refocus, reset and rebuild our industry, and are delighted to hear that Members have done such an amazing job of transforming their businesses. However, we must continue to evolve the way we work. We are working on projects to better support you and your business, and hope to bring you more on this in the coming weeks. Now is the time to plan and set goals for 2022. But before that, we have Christmas to look forward to

EDITORIAL Editor Emma Godfrey emma@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk Deputy editor Katie Smith Assistant editor Hollie Ewers Content sub-editors James Hundleby, Kate Bennett

DESIGN Lead designer Carrie Bremner Picture researcher Claire Echavarry

ADVERTISING advertising@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk 020 7880 6230

PRODUCTION Production director Jane Easterman Account director Emma Godfrey emma@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk 020 7324 2751

PRINTER Manson Group, St Albans

COVER ILLUSTRATION Shutterstock

© The NHBF 2021 All views expressed in salonfocus are not necessarily those of the NHBF. All efforts have been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information published in salonfocus. However, the publisher accepts no responsibility for any inaccuracies or errors and omissions in the information produced in this publication. No information contained in this publication may be used or reproduced without the prior permission of the NHBF. Recycle your magazine’s plastic wrap.

WITHOUT YOUR CONTINUED SUPPORT AND ENGAGEMENT, WE WOULD NOT BE THE ASSOCIATION WE ARE

and wowing clients with amazing services and gift packages (page 30). An online store can help grow your business, but where do you start when setting one up? From web design to on-the-ground logistics, ﬁnd top tips for building an online store on page 44. Upskilling employees is crucial right now. While we try to ease the skills shortage with apprenticeship support (page 24), we must also look at people who are already in the sector. Training is essential to maintain employee morale, meet regulatory requirements and keep clients happy. See page 32 for our checklist on how to keep pace. There’s been a lot of noise about Amazon’s hair salon, but is it really a threat to our sector? Find out what we can learn from it on page 16. As we move into winter, it’s vital to look after your mental health and spot when staff are struggling. We have lots of resources on our website, but the simplest way to alleviate stress is to be kind to yourself and others. Finally, keep your eyes peeled this month for the NHBF Member survey. We’d love your feedback on what you ﬁnd most useful as a Member and what we can do to improve.

Check your local LDPE facilities to ﬁnd out how.

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TH E CU T BEA U T Y STA N D A R DS

THE The 9 things you need to know this issue... 6

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BEA UTY STA ND AR DS T HE CU T

REGULATION AT NEEDED FO FOR INJECTABLES BLES After a year-long inquiry, MPs have called on the government to address the absence of regulation over injectables such as Botox and ﬁllers.

What: With instrumental support from the NHBF, the All-Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) on Beauty, Aesthetics and Wellbeing published its ﬁnal report into non-surgical cosmetic treatments. It concluded that there is a complete lack of a legal framework of standards around these treatments, which has left consumers at risk and undermined the industry’s ability to develop.

IMAGE: ALAMY

How: As part of the inquiry, the APPG investigated practitioner standards and qualiﬁcations, the case for a registration of practitioners or

licensing, ethics and mental health considerations, and the serious issues around advertising and social media.

Recommendations include: Setting national minimum standards for practitioner training Legislate to introduce a national licensing framework Make fillers prescription-only Develop and mandate psychological pre-screening of customers Extend the ban on under-18s receiving Botox and fillers to other invasive aesthetic treatments Place advertising restrictions on dermal fillers and other invasive aesthetic treatments Require social media platforms to do more to curb misleading ads and posts that promote these treatments.

NHBF position:

LIP FILLER TOPS TIKTOK LIST Lip filler is the most popular non-surgical cosmetic procedure on video-sharing platform TikTok in 2021, with more than 1.8 billion views. By compiling a list of the most popular non-surgical cosmetic procedures across the web, researchers analysed the top two viewed hashtags of each procedure on TikTok and then totalled their views to discover which is the most popular overall. Lip filler came out as the top procedure, using the hashtags #lipfiller and #lipfillercheck. The second and third most popular procedures were microblading and brow lamination, while lip blushing racked up nearly 119 million views.

Caroline Larissey, NHBF director of quality and standards, says: ‘It is extremely important that the beauty, aesthetics and wellbeing sector is recognised as part of the solution to the problem, not the problem itself. ‘The beauty industry and the medical professions need to work together to seek solutions that raise standards and protect the safety and wellbeing of clients.’ Access the report at nhbf.co.uk/botox-regulations

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TH E CU T N EW S

BODY CONFIDENCE

A little lift

Nail hacks are the most sought-after beauty advice videos on TikTok right now, with more than 340 millio million views. #EyelinerHack(s) c came in a close second with nearly 319 million views. 319 million

We speak to Helen Wood, owner of Bee Bronzzzed zed ’s beauty salon in Gloucestershire, about why she’s e. shining a much-needed light on body conﬁdence.

Try before befo you buy. Sampling is key to boosting b beauty retail sales. In a study of 20,000 pe people, 75% said they were more likely to buy from a beauty brand they hadn’t heard of after they were given th the chance to sample products.

WHY? ‘The media is saturated with heavily edited pictures of people,’ says Helen. ‘Every day, you pick up your phone and there’s a picture of somebody airbrushed by a beach with their hair and make-up beautifully done. Ultimately, we’re not very good at looking at ourselves in a positive way.’

WHAT? Helen decided to change the status quo on images advertising spray tanning. So her clients became the models. ‘I didn’t think people would be up for getting semi-naked and having photos plastered over social media,’ she says. But more than 30 women came forward.

A new ad camp campaign spotlighting the outsized impact of black innovations on the world of beauty has been launched by cosmetics retailer Sephora. The campaign foregrounds the black stories and traditions behind beloved beauty tools and techniques.

P R O M O T I N G B O DY CONFIDENCE ‘Use photos of normal people,’ Helen says. ‘I’m trying to get people to put their white bits on show for photos. They can pull their pant line down a little and we can show the different body shapes and types.’

How do you promote conﬁdence? Let us know @nhbfsocial

WHAT’S HOT, WHAT’S NOT

WHAT’S NEXT? ‘I would like to do more on inclusivity,’ Helen says. ‘It’s about making people feel better about themselves, but not changing who they are or what they look like so much, enhancing what’s naturally there for them and making them feel proud of that.’

Stevenage is the worst place for healthy skin in the UK. A Clarins study rated the Hertfordshire town bottom for its high levels of skin-damaging features such as precipitation, wind, humidity and pollution.

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language – he does not understand me, and that is why he does not pay my workers the correct wages.’ The latest hourly rates are: National Living Wage (23-year-olds or over): £8.91 NMW (21- to 22-year-olds): £8.36 NMW (18- to 20-year-olds): £6.56 NMW (16- to 17-year-olds): £4.62 Apprentice rate: £4.30.

IMAGES: SEPHORA / SHUTTERSTOCK

HMRC REVEALS TOP NMW EXCUSES Job role is the most absurd excuse for not paying the National Minimum Wage (NMW), according to the HMRC. The top three excuses for ﬂouting the law in the 2020 to 2021 tax year were: 1. ‘She does not deserve the NMW because she only makes the teas and sweeps the ﬂoors.’ 2. ‘The employee wasn't a good worker.’ 3. ‘My accountant and I speak a different

Misconceptions are preventing men from having a spa day. More than one in three (36%) said they are put off by a spa if it is too feminine, while 34% said they would feel embarrassed going, according to Champneys.

‘Ghosting’ salons is most common in Berkshire, the worst offender out of 20 UK regions, with 9.4% of people failing to turn up since April. According to Phorest Salon Software, the national average is 5%.

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INTERNATIONA L Q&A T HE CU T

HAIRDRESSING

From the US Marine Corps to Hollywood – how exactly?

MAJOR MOON From cutting hair in the Marines to featuring in Vogue, LA-based Daniel Moon tells us how he became one of the world’s top hair colourists and ‘inﬂuencer of the inﬂuencers’.

My dad was in the military, so I knew that was an option to get an education and travel. In the Marines I cut hair on the ship, but it was so regimented. After the Marines I went to beauty school, and the experience really fuelled my creativity. Salon culture is fascinating. I’ve been in the business 20 years and I still feel the same as when I started – there’s always something to learn.

Salon owner, stylist, artist, entrepreneur... which role do you enjoy most? My roles are borne out of me being an artist. I’m privileged to be surrounded by some of the best creative minds in the world when they’re in my chair. Approaching hair from an artistic space has opened up opportunities, like collaborating with Reebok and making my own products.

Products like your glitter gel ‘Major Moonshine’? Yes – I had clients who wanted to experiment with colour but weren’t ready to make the commitment, so I developed a product for people to add colour that wasn’t permanent.

And your ‘Major Apron’ design?

TRENDS FOR WINTER 2021-22? I think bright colours will continue into winter. People are in the mood for a brighter year and they’ll want their hair to reﬂect that desire!

I wanted to create protective wear that felt like clothing rather than a uniform. The aprons out there were interrupting my sense of expression and it felt like a missed opportunity. The ﬁrst apron was clear so I could see my outﬁt. It’s been

amazing to watch people embrace and be empowered by the product.

What’s your favourite look you’ve created? There was a day in the salon where I did nine members of the US band Brockhampton – each person was so diﬀerent, and to watch them leave with uniquely cut and coloured hair and then perform with all of their hair synchronised was really powerful.

TOP COLOUR TIPS

Before your client goes back to a darker brunette from platinum, always try copper in between. It allows them to try one more look on the platinum base without affecting the next desired result.

For blondes looking for an intro to creative colour, try colouring with a pale pink or peach instead of toning. They are subtle colours and bring out these really beautiful, candycoloured, luminescent tones in the skin that you don’t typically see when you just use a toner, as most toners tend to be more violet.

Right before you cut a client's hair is a great time to experiment with bleaching and colouring the ends! They can go as wild as they want – play with abandon, knowing you are going to snip them off!

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I can’t

cope

SUPPORTING HAIR AND BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS AND THEIR CHILDREN

Together we can help make a difference supporting terminal illness, domestic abuse, homelessness, poverty, mental health, and ﬁnancial hardship SPONSORS GOLD

SILVER

MEDIA

EXHIBITIONS

BRONZE CAMPAIGNS

Hairandbeautycharity.org | Registered Charity in England & Wales No: 1166298

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CHARITY

F UNDRAI SI NG T HE CU T

A balancing ng act The Hair & Beauty Charity has never been needed more than over the past 18 months, says president Samantha Grocutt. he Hair & Beauty Charity is dedicated to helping hair and beauty professionals in need. We provide financial support to individuals and their families when they are facing illness, bereavement or financial hardship. Last year was perhaps our toughest yet in terms of the amount of people needing financial help. We saw a 148% increase

HAIR AND BEAUTY COLLEGE FUNDRAISING CAMPAIGN The charity is hosting its ﬁrst #supportyourfuture fundraising campaign, aimed at hair and beauty colleges to increase awareness of the charity among the next generation of industry professionals and raise much-needed funds. The campaign will run from 18 to 22 October. For more information, go to hairandbeautycharity. org/supportyourfuture

in requests for help, and increased financial contributions to those in the hair and beauty industry by 70%. However, 2021 didn’t get any better and during January, February and March, when salons were closed and freelancers unable to work, the charity received a 224% year-on-year increase in requests for financial support. We have seen those numbers fall since lockdown was lifted in April, but many people in our industry are still suffering, and the charity is needed more than ever. Like many charities, we’ve been unable to fully restart our fundraising this year. In the past, we’ve hosted events ranging from fundraising balls to charity golf days and bike rides, but now we’ve moved to more digital or donation-based activities – such as the launch of our e-cookbook, which features 49 hair and beauty experts. Brands have also taken the initiative to raise funds internally – the L’Oréal Professional Walk for Hairdressers raised £5000 while encouraging stylists to

IN 2020

148% increase in requests for help

70% increase in ﬁnancial contributions

IN 2021

224% year-on-year increase in requests for ﬁnancial support during the ﬁrst quarter of 2021

get active during lockdown. Navy Professional and NAF! Stuff are donating 10% of sales from a limited-edition cuticle oil, and we’ve had wonderful fundraising initiatives from the likes of Project Positivity, which contributed t-shirt sales from their motivational quotes, and haircut donations from Neil Moodie and Guy Kremer Salon. It’s very much a balancing act now – we are helping more people than ever, and although we’ve received tremendous support from our sponsors and the industry to raise funds and awareness, we need to keep talking about what our official industry charity does and why it’s important to remember us – not just for fundraising, but for being there to support those in financial need, too.

For more on the charity’s events and fundraising, go to hairandbeautycharity.org To buy and download the e-cookbook, visit hairandbeautycharity.org/ charity-e-cookbook

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TH E CU T BU BUSS IN E S S

UPSKILLING

INDUSTRY ADVICE

Swap shop

YOU ASKED, THEY ANSWERED

Three salon owners in Bradford came ir together to share their skills. Jonny Wobz explains what they did.

How can I stay alert to security threats? Two experts answer the big question…

the image we wanted to achieve in the post-session photo shoot.

Participants

OWNERS AND SHOPS Jonny Wobz, The Yorkshire Chair Barbers Brittany Neeson, The Hair Bar Joe Smith, House of Smith Salon

Idea initiation Brittany and I met at a party. I spoke about wanting my team to develop colour and product knowledge, Brittany about her interest in fading techniques and increasing her understanding of short hair – so we arranged a skills swap day.

Along with Brittany and Joe, we had three stylists, including myself, and a junior from The Yorkshire Chair.

Skills shared Brittany and Joe led us through consultation, colouring theory, products, foils and aftercare, and brought doll heads so my team could practise. I led the group through male consultation, fading, sectioning, styling and photography. One of my stylists has photography skills and was able to lead the group, so it was a shared eﬀort.

Setting up

Instant effectiveness

I arranged models, as I had the client portfolio. We ensured we had various hair types and did consultations to ensure they would be happy with the colour and style, and also conﬁrmed

An example of the eﬀectiveness was the impact of the football player Phil Foden. When England reached the Euro 2020 ﬁnal, many clients wanted scalp bleach with a silver toner like Foden, and because of the swap, my team had the knowledge to meet demand. I spoke with Joe to get extra products, and Brittany came to support on a bleach-heavy Saturday.

DARREN WRIGHT Payments consultant, Dojo.tech Keep your card machine in a safe place, and never leave reception unattended – this avoids unauthorised machine ‘reversals’. Be careful when taking phone bookings from someone you don’t know – especially if they want to pay in full over the phone only a few hours in advance. You can’t be sure it’s their card, and you could be charged for a reversal if it is stolen or cloned.

KATHLEEN OSBORNE Regional marketing manager, Phorest Salon Software Ensure your antivirus is up to date on PCs and laptops. Train staff to be wary about clicking links and make it clear that work computers are for work only. You can conﬁgure settings so staff have only the access they need. When staff leave, have procedures for shutting down access. Ensure computers and phones have passwords and screenlock enabled, and encrypt hard drives.

Why swap skills? The beneﬁts speak for themselves: the team-building and morale boost, relationships across salons, and knowledge in new areas.

Top tip Don’t be afraid or too proud to ask! There’s always something to learn.

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RESOURCES

Cyber Essentials is a governmentbacked resource. Visit getreadyfor cyberessentials.iasme.co.uk The NCSC has a range of guidance and resources at ncsc.gov.uk Read an NHBF blog on cyber threats at nhbf.co.uk/cyber-threats

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INSSPI PIRATI T HE CCU T IN RATIOONN THE

HAIR INCLUSIVITY

Niche no more Afrodrops founder Luke Carthy built his business to educate people on afro haircare, and make it more accessible. He shares his story. market, they almost always centre on straight European hair. Afro haircare is seen as specialist – but how can simply washing your hair be specialist or niche? I’m more likely to ﬁnd a wide and diverse selection of glutenfree foods on the market than a small handful of products that are capable of washing my hair – even though only 1% of the UK

uring my son’s ﬁrst week at school, he came home in tears because his mixedrace hair was diﬀerent to his classmates’ European hair. He felt unseen and unrepresented, and began to hate the hair he was born with. And when you look at the hair brands currently on the

population is diagnosed as coeliac, while 3% are black.

Addressing the problem I created Afrodrops to improve access to, and wholeheartedly embrace,

afro haircare. I also wanted to provide education – whether that’s on haircare for babies or children, or for someone who is transitioning to natural hair for the ﬁrst time. Afrodrops aims to provide those with afro hair with the advice they need, and ultimately help them to love the hair they were born with. afrodrops.com

MY TOP TIPS FOR NATURAL AND AFRO HAIRCARE

SWITCH IT UP

Temperature and humidity can change how hair behaves, and therefore what it needs to remain happy and healthy. When it’s colder, consider using a slightly denser oil on your client, such as Jamaican black castor oil, to protect tresses and lock in more moisture. When

summer approaches, consider switching to lighter oils such as ﬂaxseed or avocado – both are protective and lightweight for warmer climates.

HAIR POROSITY IS THE BIGGEST PRIORITY

Working out a client's hair porosity is a great way to narrow down the

products that will work best. Low-porosity hair requires less oil and needs lightweight water-based products to prevent build-up and reduce scalp irritation. High-porosity hair is typically super-thirsty and needs richer products to stay happy and hydrated.

THE POWER OF LOC

To establish healthy, strong hair and reduce breakage, the LOC (liquid, oil, cream) regime is essential. Start with a liquid (water or leave-in conditioner), then apply an oil to seal in the hydration. Lastly, apply a hair cream or

moisturiser to add slip – this makes detangling much easier and softens the strands, ready for styling. Note: with low-porosity hair, it may be more beneﬁcial to swap the oil and cream around for better hair hydration.

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TH E BU SI N E S S A M A Z O N S A LO N

FROM CYBER SPACE TO SALON 16

The launch of Amazon Salon in London has made some salon and barbershop owners nervous. How will the tech giant’s latest venture aﬀect the hair and beauty industry? And should you really be worried?

WORDS GEORGINA WINTERSGILL

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A MA Z ON S A LON THE BU SI NESS

C WHAT CAN MEMBERS LEARN?

PUT CLIENTS FIRST Elena Lavagni at Amazon Salon says: ‘We put clients at the centre of the universe. First, you understand what clients want. Then you create the services. Then you ﬁnd hairdressers that are able to provide them. Then you choose companies that can help.’

USE TECH WISELY Phil Evans at Salon Guru says: ‘Think about the client journey. Does your website look good? Can clients book online quickly and easily using their phone? Can they see pictures of your work, and prices? Do you record the consultation and give the client access to it? It all makes a seamless client journey, so the client will spend their money with you and not elsewhere.’

RETHINK YOUR RETAIL Phil Evans says: ‘Do you need to keep all your stock in the salon? Some companies offer salons a product delivery system, so your client’s order goes straight to a warehouse and products are sent out from there. Alternatively, some salons use affiliate links in their online store. When clients click on products, the salons earn commission.’

onsumers may be deserting the high street in favour of online stores, but it’s often said that salons and barbershops should be safe – after all, you can’t get a haircut or beauty treatment online. However, when Amazon launched its first salon in London’s Spitalfields Market back in April, other salon owners started to feel a little worried. It’s no secret that Amazon is known for its monstrous business success: in just one year, between 2019 and 2020, its UK sales increased by 51%. And almost a quarter of its customers say they love shopping with Amazon. The question is, can that same retail success transfer to the salon business? And if it does, what does that mean for independent salons? Here we explain what Amazon Salon is doing differently and look at the implications for the industry.

Although nobody from Amazon was available for an interview, the launch press release calls the salon ‘an experiential venue where we showcase new products and technology’. It adds: ‘The salon is the latest initiative designed to support the professional beauty industry and follows the launch of the Amazon Professional Beauty Store on amazon.co.uk.’ Elena Lavagni, owner of independent salon Neville Hair and Beauty in London’s Knightsbridge, provides haircare and styling services, and put together the Amazon Salon team. Since the salon opened in April, it has maintained a staﬀ of seven and has enjoyed a positive reception from the public, she says.

What is Amazon Salon? Firstly, Amazon Salon isn’t a virtual salon. It’s a bricks-and-mortar business located a mile or so from Amazon’s London HQ, set over 1500 square feet on two ﬂoors and with 11 chairs. It oﬀers a full range of hairdressing services for both adults and children. An adult cut and blowdry starts at £53.

Tech… What tech? So what technology does the salon offer? Treatments include a complimentary steam wash, a high-tech conditioning treatment that uses a steam pod to open the hair shaft. Clients flick through magazines on Amazon Fire tablets, there’s a ‘creative area’ for selfies, and consultations take place in front of an augmented reality mirror where clients can see themselves with different hair colours. Elena says this improves consultations and creates a buzz, and has led to an increase in colour sales. ‘It encourages clients

IT MIGHT MAKE OWNERS THINK ABOUT WHAT THEY CAN DO IN TERMS OF TECHNOLOGY

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TH E BU SI N E S S A M A Z O N S A LO N

to be more experimental,’ she says. The retail process is high-tech, too. Clients point at products they’re interested in on a display shelf, and product information appears on a display screen. They can then buy the products by scanning a QR code, which takes them to the relevant Amazon page.

Although Amazon has said – and Elena reiterates – that there are no current plans to open a chain of salons, some salon owners are understandably worried. Rob Nix, owner of Salonix Hair and Beauty Salon in Selby, North Yorkshire, says: ‘I’m massively concerned about Amazon Salon. I love technology and innovation, but is it going to run smaller salons out of business? ‘Something like Amazon Salon is new, shiny and technology-driven rather than industry-driven.

They’ve got this unique selling point that the industry’s not seen before. My fear is it’s going to cram tech into the industry too quickly, and smaller salons won’t be able to keep up. It’s just not something I could aﬀord to implement. ‘I’m also concerned that clients will expect to pay Amazon prices for salon products. It’s happened to us before. We used to stock a big-name brand and clients told us they were able to buy it online more cheaply.’

Wider effect While the tech being used isn’t exclusive to Amazon Salon – and is already available to anyone who’s willing and able to pay for it – Amazon Salon does

allow the brand to test and demonstrate the latest products and industry technology. Phil Evans is managing director of Salon Guru, which specialises in websites and online marketing for salons. He says that many salons are already using more tech because of Covid-19. ‘Some of our clients are using contactless check-in and check-out, and systems that allow clients to pay via their phones,’ he says. Phil also doesn’t think Amazon’s long-term goals are to infiltrate the industry as a salon operator. ‘It’s really good PR but I don’t think Amazon has any intention of running salons. I think they’re trying to showcase directions that technology could take in different types of industries. It’s a clever bit of marketing.’ NHBF chief executive Richard Lambert agrees that the main effect of Amazon Salon is likely to be more nuanced than simply a rival salon threat: ‘Amazon Salon might make owners think about what they can do in terms of technology, which is going to be increasingly important in salons.

IMAGES: © AMAZON / SHUTTERSTOCK

The Amazon threat

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A MA Z ON S A LON THE BU SI NESS

FUNDAMENTALLY, WHAT MAKES A SALON SUCCESSFUL IS THE CLIENT EXPERIENCE

‘Combining the digital world with top-quality craft will help push the salon industry forward. It isn’t going to replace the craft; technology is never going to replace a hairdresser. But it will give more ammunition to the hairdresser to be able to express themselves and to give the clients the very best service.’

GET THAT GUILTY FEELING Offering some comfort to worried independent salon and barbershop owners, almost 1 in 10 UK consumers say they felt guilty about shopping with Amazon instead of smaller independents.

‘Many owners have already seen the value of online consultations. They might also use tech to look at diﬀerent styles and colours with clients. Making click-and-collect retail available through the salon might be helpful as well. ‘Amazon Salon is using a lot of tech, and it looks like a very slick and impressive operation with a very slick e-commerce process but, fundamentally, what makes a salon successful is the client experience.’

Customer ﬁrst Even with her established history in the salon sector, Elena says that focus on the client is the main innovation that Amazon is bringing. ‘With my Neville salon, we might have had a fabulous new product come in and we’d have to organise a really cool service or method to sell that product to the clients. With Amazon, it works the other way around: let’s look at the clients and see what they want,’ Elena says.

MICHAEL ALLEN DIRECTOR AT ALLEN’S BARBERSHOP, GRAVESEND, KENT

Some hairdressers are quite doom and gloom about Amazon Salon, but I try to think of the positives. What can I learn from it? There are good lessons to be taken from its use of tech. I’m into technology anyway, and I’ve adapted my salon because of Covid-19. For example, my salon is now cardless for most clients – my system stores their card details. The way Amazon Salon is doing its retail is interesting and has given me the idea to use QR codes on my retail area. I already have a QR code on the door so people can scan it with their phone and book in.

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ccording to the Mental Health Foundation (MHF), three times as many men as women die by suicide, are dependent on alcohol or report frequent drug use. Men report lower levels of life satisfaction, and 87% of rough sleepers are male. Men are also less likely to access psychological therapies. However, they do seem to open up in the barber’s chair – and barbers, in partnership with mental health charities, are doing their best to listen and help.

brother-in-law to suicide seven years ago. ‘No one expected it,’ she says. ‘People in that position don’t want you to know how they’re feeling. His death rocked the community.’ Charlotte is now raising money for the Campaign Against Living

Miserably (CALM) and donated 10% of the shop’s proﬁts from 21 June to 31 July. ‘Our area has seen a number of male suicides in the past few months, the most recent of which was a barber,’ she says. ‘That gave us the push to do it.’

Opening up Charlotte Reakes, co-owner of Lockup Barbers in Westﬁeld, Somerset, lost her

World Mental Health Day is on 10 October, and some of the UK’s barbers are playing an important role in tackling the men’s mental health crisis.

BREAKING DOWN BARRIERS WORDS STEVE SMETHURST

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M EN’ S M ENTA L HEA LTH THE BU SI NESS

Charlotte says men will talk about their feelings when they’re in the chair. ‘They feel like they’re in their own little bubble. They’re looking in the mirror and all they can see is the two of us. We’re also disconnected from their day-to-day world. ‘We’ve got CALM posters and T-shirts in the shop and people do ask about them. Most people have a story that involves mental health. Clients talk about losses, relationships, ﬁnancial problems. A lot of it is listening.’ Charlotte hasn’t had any formal training. ‘We can only respond with our humanity. But I can empathise with people. We’ve been talking to clients and asking: “What would you do if your friend said they were struggling?” There’s been a mixture of answers – often it’s “I wouldn’t leave their side.” But when I ask them “What would you do if you were struggling – would you tell your friends?”, they all say no.’

Proven beneﬁt Curfew Grooming, which has locations in Brixton and Hackney Wick, London, has joined forces with ‘The 12th Man’, a mental health campaign from the charity The Outsiders. ‘It organises mental health ﬁrst aid [MHFA] training for

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REACH OUT Sometimes, listening to other people’s issues every day can be stressful. If you need support yourself, make sure to ask for help or talk to someone. The following websites have useful info and resources: bit.ly/MHF-getting-help anxietyuk.org.uk bit.ly/Mind-side-by-side

CLIENTS TALK ABOUT LOSSES, RELATIONSHIPS, FINANCIAL PROBLEMS. A LOT OF IT IS LISTENING barbers, tattoo artists and taxi drivers – basically places where conversations happen – to address men’s mental health challenges,’ says co-founder Ben Theophanous. All staff and management at Curfew took the training. ‘Some staff have, or have had, mental health issues,’ says Ben, ‘so not only was it helpful in making them more sensitive to clients, but it also had the potential to help them with challenges they’re having.’ A lot of the training centres on why certain people, scenarios or events – such as a relationship break-up or the death of a family member – may contribute to a mental health issue. ‘You can be a shoulder to cry on or listen to what they have to say, but empathy is more powerful. Once you learn to pick up on things like their language, behaviours, mood or personality, you can react in a different way. ‘I’m certain our training has benefitted many clients,’ says Ben. ‘We send out client surveys and one of our recent questions asked whether people thought our MHFA training was useful – 87% said yes.’

Doing more James Mace, manager of The Blind Barber in Thundersley, Essex, has set up a mental health support group, walkandtalk4men.com. This stemmed from his MHFA

TOM CHAPMAN

PREVENTING SUICIDE ONE HAIRCUT AT A TIME Our Winter 2020 edition featured Torquay-based barber Tom Chapman, founder of the Lions Barber Collective (LBC), which offers online training for barbers on suicide prevention. Tom passionately believes that barbershops can be safe spaces where men can talk about mental health, and that by enabling conversations, barbers can help prevent suicide. In a TEDx talk, he says: ‘It’s estimated that those of us in the hair industry listen for nearly 2000 hours a year. That’s a lot of time. Maybe there’s something we can do very special with that time that’s given to us.’ LBC has also opened its ﬁrst not-for-proﬁt salon in London’s Carnaby Street, with all proceeds going to charity. ‘This is only the start,’ says Tom. ‘I hope to have Lions Barbers all over the country that can provide a safe space for those who need it, while connecting with all the local services available so we can bridge that gap in a place that holds no taboo or stigma for people to visit.’

BarberTalk Lite training: bit.ly/Barbertalk-lite BarberTalk podcast (Spotify): bit.ly/Barbertalk TEDx talk: bit.ly/TomChapmanTedX

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training with Movember. ‘I’m learning all the time. I’m walking and exercising more, and created my own events where men can get together for walks in the countryside.’ James says he’s struggled with depression, and while he’d heard of Movember, he thought it was just a cancer charity. It was an eye-opener when he was invited to a ‘Mo sessions’ event at the charity’s London oﬃces. ‘They had speakers discussing suicide prevention and I wanted to get involved. The community ambassador role was mentioned, I applied for it and I’ve just signed up for my third year.’ He says that men typically squeeze a haircut into an already busy day. ‘When they sit in my chair, it’s a bit of a release for them. You ask open-ended questions and people talk about their families, their work. They might say: “Do you know what, I’m really struggling at the moment.”

TO FIND OUT MORE The 12th Man Barbershop: 12th-man.org.uk/trades/barbershop Movember: uk.movember.com Campaign Against Living Miserably (CALM): thecalmzone.net/about-calm/ what-is-calm

‘You’re listening for triggers, such as talking about drinking too much, taking drugs, or words like “giving up” or “wanting to leave”. It’s about listening and giving a gentle nudge in the right direction.’ While many barbers actively support men’s mental health, James would like to see more done as a profession. ‘More can be done in every area,’ he says. ‘Exhibitions within the industry, such as Salon International or Barber Connect, could do more by setting up mental health areas or stalls where barbers under pressure could meet some friendly faces who are willing to chat.’

" WHEN THEY SIT IN MY CHAIR,

IT’S A BIT OF A RELEASE FOR THEM

KEY DATES 10 OCTOBER

World Mental Health Day NOVEMBER

The Mental Health Foundation focuses on men’s mental health mentalhealth.org.uk/ our-work/campaigns/ mens-mental-health-month Movember: The charity highlights male issues, including suicide and mental health. uk.movember.com 1-5 NOVEMBER

International Stress Awareness Week APRIL 2022

Stress Awareness Month UK 13-20 MAY 2022

Mental Health Awareness Week UK

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TH E BU SI N E S S A P P R E N T IC E S H IP S

TURNING THE TIDE Fear of losing beneﬁts and the overvaluation of higher education means uptake of apprenticeships is in the doldrums. But are we at a pivotal point in shaping their future? 24 WORDS NATASHA RIGLER

pprenticeships are traditionally the most popular route into the hairdressing industry. But the NHBF’s 2020 Industry Statistics, combined with the July’s State of the Industry Survey, shows the fragile state they are in.

Taking the high road Edward Hemmings, creative director and director of education at Alan D Hairdressing Education, noticed a shift in the late 1990s. ‘The Blair government decided that every kid would go to university,’ he explains. ‘Suddenly we saw kids who would naturally become hairdressers becoming distracted and doing something else.’ Higher education is still favoured over vocational learning. NHBF vice president Amanda LodgeStewart, director of The Link Training Academy, says: ‘Teachers and career advisers prefer to get children into full-time education after their GCSEs. It’s easier for them to manage and assess, and they get results. ‘The hair and beauty sector is hugely undervalued by careers advisers, teachers and sometimes parents. This is such a shame, as you need so many skills to be successful in this industry.’

Uptake was already down, but now the pandemic has forced 64% of 1750 respondents to cut back on supporting apprentices. In June, only 12% said they would hire an apprentice within the next three months. We are in the middle of a skills shortage, and the gap looks set to widen even further.

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A PPRENTICES HIPS THE BU SI NESS

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Money worries

on, hours of in-salon training have been lost, and end-point To be eligible for government assessments (EPAs) cancelled. apprenticeship incentives, salons Increased costs for second-year and barbershops – frustratingly apprentices are also a major barrier – cannot employ apprentices – at present, an apprentice over beforehand as ‘Saturday staff’. An the age of 19 who is in the second apprenticeship is also considered to year of their apprenticeship must be full-time employment at £4.30 be paid the age-appropriate an hour, and parents who receive National Minimum Wage or benefits are no longer allowed to National Living Wage, rather than claim for that child. the apprenticeship rate. Businesses Amanda says: ‘The way Universal are increasingly unable to afford Credit works can deter parents from apprentices and the jump in cost in encouraging their teenagers to go the second year for older learners into apprenticeships because of the greatly influences the apprentices negative financial impact.’ they take on, reducing opportunities Edward, who gives career talks to for those wishing to reskill. children as young as 10, says: ‘An apprentice could earn more than their parents’ lost benefit. But by Future-proofing the industry the time travel and food costs are Thankfully, the tide is turning. The subtracted, there may not be enough Institute for Apprenticeships and to put into the family’s pot. Technical Education (IfATE), ‘Some parents are terrified they together with trailblazer steering won’t be able to feed their other children. We need to find out whether this is fact or fear. There’s clearly an USEFUL RESOURCES issue either way that NHBF guide to taking on an apprentice: must be addressed.’ nhbf.co.uk/taking-on-an-apprentice The pandemic has NHBF education hub: nhbf.co.uk/ wreaked havoc on apprentices-and-t-levels apprenticeships. Salon NHBF guide to recruiting: nhbf.co.uk/ closures and a drop in recruit-the-right-salon-team revenue meant owners NHBF Industry Statistics: nhbf.co.uk/ have been forced to let industry-research many go. And for those NHBF State of the Industry Survey apprentices clinging July 2021: nhbf.co.uk/nhbf-survey

" THE WAY UNIVERSAL CREDIT WORKS CAN DETER PARENTS FROM ENCOURAGING THEIR TEENAGERS TO GO INTO APPRENTICESHIPS

GERRI DANGERFIELD KEANE

‘TALENT HAS BEEN SLIPPING THROUGH THE NET’

Gerri Dangerfield Keane, from Dangerfield & Keane, started his career as an apprentice when he was 14. Apprenticeships have evolved since then, but Gerri, now 60, hasn’t forgotten his roots. He says: ‘You can mould your apprentice from the beginning and instil all your best core values and culture into them. ‘This is so valuable, as someone who has trained and qualified elsewhere is unlikely to have the same standard, ethos and way of dealing with customers.’ Gerri has experienced a sharp decline in apprenticeship applications. Tellingly, from those he does receive, many are from university graduates. ‘They walk through my door with a degree because they’ve suddenly realised hairdressing is what they’ve always wanted to do,’ Gerri says. ‘The problem was, they were guided by their parents or teachers. ‘Talent has been slipping through the net, so change needs to happen.’

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TH E BU SI N E S S A P P R E N T IC E S H IP S

LET’S GET TALKING

The NHBF has kickstarted a conversation about bout he the future of hairdressing with our Shaping tthe Future of the Industry campaign. re We want to hear your thoughts about where ke e it it.. things are heading – and whether or not you like ys: Richard Lambert, NHBF chief executive, says: ‘If there is a positive from Covid-19, it is the elevated proﬁle of the hair and beauty sector, and we must use this to ensure a successful future for the industry. ‘What we need is for all hair and beauty professionals, from salon owners to those just starting out, to join in the conversation and let us know your thoughts.’ Join in the chat on our social channels @nhbfsocial #shapingthefutureoftheindustry

groups, has already agreed to dispensations for current apprentices, including EPA extensions. The NHBF dedicated July to apprentices and learners. Most importantly, however, the UK government introduced new incentives this year. At the time of writing, businesses in England were being oﬀered £3000 for new employees of any age who start their apprenticeship between 1 April 2021 and 30 September 2021. The incentive payment is in addition to the £1000 that employers already receive for hiring an apprentice aged 16 to 18, or an apprentice under 25 with an education,

health and care plan or who has been in the care of their local authority. Wales was also offering apprenticeship incentives, based on age and contract of employment, and Scotland launched two new schemes that closed in July. In Northern Ireland, the New Apprenticeship Incentive Scheme, with up to £3000 on offer, runs until 31 March 2022. West Yorkshire-based Amanda says: ‘Over the last few months, we have seen an encouraging uptake in employers looking for apprentices. I think this is due to the incentive scheme in England.’ Edward is hoping the past 18 months will also help close the skills gap. ‘Our stock has gone up, and schools are going to appreciate that artificial intelligence cannot replace a hairdresser,’ he says. ‘We are futureproof, and vocational careers will now be valued that much more.’

KATIE COOK

‘I’VE GROWN AS A PERSON’ Katie Cook, 19, is set to complete her EPA following an apprenticeship at Brooke Evans’ salon BE Ironbridge, in Telford. When I first started, some people asked why I didn’t just go to college and do a hairdressing course. But doing an apprenticeship is so much better. You’re in the workplace and are interacting with customers from the word go. You mature a lot. You’ve got to be hardworking and get up in the morning and think, ‘I want to do this.’ I frequently have to think on my feet because everyone around me is busy. That has really made me grow as a person. I will definitely be staying once I’ve finished. Brooke really cares about my training.

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A LITTLE Everyone has lost loved ones at some point, but it’s never been more important for salon and barbershop owners to have suitable bereavement policies in place – and know how to support grieving employees. WORDS GEORGINA FULLER

he past 18 months or so have been difficult due to Covid-19, with hundreds of thousands of people having been affected by bereavement. Under UK law, anyone who is classed as an employee has the right to a ‘reasonable’ amount of time off if a dependant such as a partner, parent or child dies, or if they have a stillborn baby. Additionally, in January 2020, ‘Jack’s Law’ came into force. This entitles eligible working parents who lose a child under the age of 18, or who suffer a stillbirth from 24 weeks of pregnancy, to

two weeks’ paid leave. Many businesses have also introduced a miscarriage policy. The Advisory, Conciliation and Arbitration Service (Acas) says: ‘It’s a good idea to have a policy that covers time off and pay for bereavement. A policy helps make clear what staff are entitled to, and how managers can respond and support staff.

‘Even if there is a policy, employers should make allowances. For example, a recently bereaved person may not be in the right frame of mind to read it straight away.’ So, what are the dos and don’ts when it comes to managing bereavement in the workplace?

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Do help people to grieve Lauren Rosenberg, author of How to move forward when the unthinkable happens, says: ‘Allow staﬀ to express emotions in a compassionate environment. Tell them that you are there to support them and that they are not on their own.’ ADVICE

MAN TALK

Miscarriage, trauma and bereavement may not be something men ﬁnd easy to discuss, especially in a male environment such as a barbershop. However, Mark Williams, author, speaker, trainer and consultant on men’s mental health, says: ‘It’s about normalising the conversations, telling them it’s okay not to be okay.’ If an employee’s partner has suffered a miscarriage, let them know that taking time off is an option. ‘It’s vital to have a conversation about how someone is coping,’ Mark says. ‘There is a range of services and professional help available which managers can share, including the Miscarriage for Men website.’ Early intervention is crucial, Mark adds. ‘If the employer shows empathy and understanding, the employee will remember that support and become even more loyal,’ he notes. Empathy is also good for business. ‘If an employee is struggling, he may have to take more time off in the future, which can have a greater cost to the business in the long run,’ Mark says.

Do remember that everyone deals with things differently Returning to work can be difficult, but remember that grief affects everyone differently. ‘Some people may welcome the distraction, whereas others might find it overwhelming,’ says Andy Langford, clinical director at Cruse Bereavement Care charity. ‘Lots of things can trigger grief, so tell your employees they can speak with their manager and colleagues if they are finding it tough.’

Do remember there is no right or wrong way to grieve Bereavement is a personal thing, says Lauren. ‘Loss is a personal journey. It’s important to acknowledge the loss and be aware of the stages of grief, such as shock, denial, pain, anger, depression and, ﬁnally, acceptance.’

Don’t make any presumptions ‘Don’t say “I know how you feel” or “there’s a reason for everything” or “be strong”,’ Lauren advises. Instead, try telling them how sorry you are and asking how you can help.

Do be ﬂexible Try to understand how ‘up and down’ your employee will be feeling and accommodate them, whether that’s changing some of their work days or giving them time oﬀ to see a counsellor.

Don’t forget to let them know you care ‘Do speak to your employee about the person they miss – share good memories with them about the person they have lost,’ says Lauren. ‘Be supportive – buy them a coﬀee or a little treat to show them you care.’

" IT’S IMPORTANT TO ACKNOWLEDGE THE LOSS AND TO BE AWARE OF THE STAGES OF GRIEF

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Do let them know you’re there for them ‘Make sure they know that you are there for them and they can talk to you anytime, but don’t make them feel they have to talk if they don’t want to. If they want some space, respect that,’ Lauren says.

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Do seek advice If you’re struggling to know how to support a grieving employee, there are places you can go to for advice, including the NHBF’s bereavement blog and absence management guide: nhbf. co.uk/bereavement and nhbf.co.uk/ absence-management-guide

Members can also get professional advice from the NHBF’s 24/7 legal helpline: nhbf.co.uk/legal-support

If it’s you who is grieving – do look after yourself ‘Understand that the grieving process will be unique to you and be aware of ways to look after yourself. Speak to your friends, listen to calm music, go for walk and, if necessary, seek professional help,’ Lauren says.

THE SALON OWNER

MICHELLE DRURY-LOPEZ Owner of Mint Salon in Surrey, which has had a bereavement policy since it opened 14 years ago.

I couldn’t ﬁnd much information at the time, so I drafted it myself. My thinking was that a grieving employee would not be able to work well, and should be entitled to space and time to grieve without having to worry ﬁnancially,’ she says. The policy entitles any employee to at least one week off, fully paid, if they suffer the death of an immediate family member. This could be changed depending on the circumstances, for instance, the loss of a child in accordance with Jack’s Law. I would look to support them in every way – time off for the funeral, counselling, maybe reduced working hours once they return to work. I have six employees and most have been with me for about 10 years, so we have a close relationship. My policy may not apply to somewhere with a huge turnover of staff, but I would still implement it if it was a new member of staff. Everyone should be entitled to grieve.

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TH E BU SI N E S S C H R IST M A S

THE FACTOR JESSICA CRANE

is an international award-winning salon business coach with more than 20 years’ industry experience.

How can salon and barbershop owners pull out all the stops to give their clients that extra bit of magic this festive season? WORDS EMMA BENNETT

IAN EGERTON is the owner of The Stress Exchange hair and beauty salon in London, NHBF president and creator of Loop HR software. Ian’s philosophy on salon business is ‘Keep it simple: automate what you can and empower others to succeed’.

Plan, plan and plan again

‘The more you prepare, the more success you will have with your campaigns,’ says Valerie Delforge. Jessica Crane agrees, stressing the importance of having the right policies and procedures in place. If people are suddenly oﬀ sick, then everybody will know what to do.

VALERIE DELFORGE is an international business strategy consultant. Her online training hub The Delforge Group helps salon owners take their businesses to the next level.

Keep your clients in mind

Ian Egerton thinks carefully about what clients want before ordering stock. ‘Find out what your product houses are doing for Christmas and pick what you think will sell in your salon. We buy in products especially for our guests.’ Matt Maxwell says salons should take advantage of the return of

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Christmas party season. ‘We ﬁnd premium brands tend to perform well as clients look to ‘glam up’, spending more on beauty over the 12 weeks of Christmas than any other time of year.’

their friends to beneﬁt from the “salon experience” at home.’

Offer gift vouchers

Make sure merchandising is on point

Organise an event

‘Create an events calendar to engage clients,’ says Valerie. ‘Throughout December, organise events such as a retail day where the client receives a £10 voucher for any treatment in January, or a virtual party for your VIPs, with experts oﬀering advice and tips.’

‘We create packages for both hair and beauty,’ says Ian. ‘This year we will extend our package range to sell a physical or online gift card for clients and their friends and family, promoting it on our social channels and website.’ Matt also says gift packs are a great idea, with 58% of beauty gift pack sales happening at Christmas. ‘Salons could easily capitalise on this by selling a unique premium oﬀering.’

Focus on the experience

Tweak the client journey to make it more festive. ‘You can oﬀer limited edition services such as a festive facial, and then look for ways to add value so you always over-deliver,’ explains Jessica. ‘For example, with the facial, the client might receive a complimentary gift and a mince pie. Never use the word “free”!’ Matt adds: ‘Once they’re in store, use this time to market gift packs, so clients can encourage

" THE MORE YOU PREPARE, THE MORE SUCCESS YOU WILL HAVE

Less is more, says Valerie. ‘Too many messages kill the message. Keep the focus on your marketing activities and represent those at reception. Contact your brands to ask if they would contribute to a goody bag for a “12 days of Christmas” event, announcing a daily winner on your social channels.’

Get savvy with social

Don’t forget your staff

Jessica says: ‘We need to get away from “before and after” pictures because they won’t appeal to every client. Instead, make your salon experience Instagrammable to encourage clients to share pictures with their followers.’ Valerie agrees: ‘Engage the team with a story of their favourite products in December, and get them to explain why they love them.’

Ian runs an incentive programme based on retail sales to keep team members engaged over the period. ‘They get retail commission and everyone works towards a company goal, with members being rewarded with a team bonus.’ Jessica says it’s important for your team to feel appreciated. ‘Buy them a takeaway after a busy shift, or select a gift for each of them,’ she says.

MATT MAXWELL

THE CHRISTMAS PARTY IS BACK Matt Maxwell from Kantar predicts a return to the season’s biggest event – the Christmas party... We expect consumers to make the most of the festive season after missing out in 2020. The number of shoppers getting a beauty treatment over Christmas 2020 was down by 47% from Christmas 2019, so Christmas 2021 could be one of the biggest years on record for the industry as the sector rebounds. Beauty salons will have an opportunity to capitalise on increased demand for professional cosmetics services from consumers who are willing to spend to be party-ready. Think back to before Covid-19 – the four weeks to 15 December 2019 was the biggest month of the year for eyelashes, making up 8.6% of total annual sales during this time.

Matt is a strategic insight director at Kantar, a data, insights and consulting company.

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TH E BU SI N E S S U P S KIL L IN G E M P LOY E E S

pskilling is essential to ensure client retention, appeal to a range of customers, retain and engage employees, and adhere to insurance and regulatory requirements. ‘Clients expect staﬀ to be competent and conﬁdent,’ says Melissa Timperley, owner of Melissa Timperley Salon, Manchester. ‘That means training them exactly how to perform a hair task, and that can only be gained by

AHEAD OF THE CURVE Upskilling is crucial in the hair and beauty sector. How do salon and barbershop owners know when and how to train staﬀ ?

practising in a safe environment and learning from experts.’ ‘If you and your team members do not keep up with new trends, techniques and products, your competitors will be paying attention, and you will start to lose clients,’ adds Cheryl Rougvie, director at Ambition Centre for Training. Training shouldn’t just focus on trends, though, point out Claire MacLeod and Diane Murray, founders of Shine, which supports hair and beauty sector businesses. ‘There is a whole regulatory side where ongoing training is essential,’ says Claire. Staﬀ should be continually updated on regulations, data protection, and diversity and inclusion.

WORDS ANNA SCOTT

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UPS K ILLING EMPLOYEES THE BU SI NESS

‘Mental health first aid training and noticing domestic abuse or human trafficking are important areas,’ she adds. ‘A salon staff member might be the only interface someone has, and might be able to give guidance. Aside from the compliance aspect, it is also hugely motivational for staff.’ It’s also crucial that staff have the right qualification for the service they are offering, says Caroline Larissey, NHBF director of quality and standards. ‘This has become important to meet insurance requirements.’ Melissa focuses on upskilling to both stay current and avoid re-dos. ‘These cost the salon money and stylists can lose confidence. This can limit what they are comfortable doing, which is not helpful for them or the salon.’ Upskilling boosts not only team members’ confidence, but also their skillset and engagement with work. ‘There are several benefits to providing or encouraging opportunities for continued professional development [CPD],’ says Caroline. ‘These include a more engaged and happier team that feels rewarded in their job, lower staff turnover as they feel more committed, and better employee retention because they feel the business has invested in them.’

Individual needs The NHBF recommends hair and beauty professionals complete CPD on an annual basis and record any CPD completed. This can be shared with insurance providers when needed. ‘We place responsibility on individuals to decide what their development needs are,’ Caroline says.

94% of employees would stay with their current employer longer if there was more investment in their career

encouraged more business by completing client loyalty surveys.’ Cheryl adds that the success of training should show in productivity increases. ‘When new training is given, you want to bring in clients for those services,’ she says. ‘This breeds confidence and enthusiasm among staff and clients.’ At Melissa Timperley Salon, personal training plans keep staff motivated. ‘Everyone knows what is going to be most helpful to them because we discuss it at monthly one-to-ones and agree their areas of focus, interest and improvement,’ Melissa says. Trainers can help salon owners to identify staff training needs, too. ‘We have an independent

61%

of employers are funding or arranging training, down from 66% in 2019 ANNETTE MUNSLOW

DON’T BE FRIGHTENED TO TRY NEW THINGS

99M training days were provided by employers in 2019, the lowest level since 2011

‘They are encouraged to engage with their employer when deciding on CPD activity, and to focus on the quality and outcome of activities, not just the time spent on it. ‘Businesses may measure how eﬀective CPD has been or if it has

Annette Munslow, founder of Peaches Hair and Beauty in Alfreton, Derbyshire, has used online platforms with her team to learn skills and techniques. ‘Upskilling is essential to provide what clients are asking for,’ she says. ‘For example, researching new products like K18 – ﬁnding out how they work, passing this knowledge on and seeing the results – has been fantastic.’ She advises researching new products, perfecting new skills and sharing ideas from team training. ‘Don’t be frightened to try new things. Encouraging your team will have a positive input and create excitement for clients.’

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TH E BU SI N E S S U P S KIL L IN G E M P LOY E E S

overview of the salon, and can identify what employees need to develop,’ Cheryl says. ‘It’s about meeting the needs of not only the salon, but also the individual.’

Engaging staff Ambition has invested heavily in interactive e-learning. ‘This covers everything from a level 2 qualiﬁcation to salon trainers,’ Cheryl says. ‘Understanding how people learn is key to engage them. There are great free online tools identifying learning styles.’ Diane agrees that there are now many ways staﬀ can consume training online – from

listening back to reading a transcription. ‘That means they can tap into training in a way that is going to suit them,’ she says. This is especially important for freelance contractors, who may have to pay for their own training. ‘Employers may encourage or ask staﬀ members and independent contractors to participate in a minimum level of annual CPD to meet quality assurance and insurance requirements,’ Caroline says. It doesn’t have to be expensive. ‘CPD can come in many forms – courses, training, sharing good practice, exhibitions, shows, demonstrations, reading, researching, YouTube videos and so on. ‘Knowing that everyone in the team maintains CPD and is aware of the sector’s best practices will provide conﬁdence that mistakes are unlikely, and that everyone within the business is as skilled as each other.’

MELISSA TIMPERLEY Owner, Melissa Timperley Salon

" IF YOU DO NOT KEEP UP WITH NEW TRENDS, YOU WILL START TO LOSE CLIENTS

RESOURCES National Occupational Standards for hairdressing: bit.ly/NOS-hairdressing NHBF webinars: nhbf.co.uk/ events/search Taking on an apprentice: nhbf.co.uk/taking-on-anapprentice The importance of CPD and training: nhbf.co.uk/ importance-of-training The importance of training: nhbf.co.uk/beauty-training NHBF apprenticeship guide: nhbf.co.uk/ apprenticeship-guide

Have a training plan for each team member, including reception staff Have a ‘continuous improvement’ mindset in the salon Check in regularly to ﬁnd out what team members are interested in and challenged by Take note of client reviews for clues on where a team member could develop DON’T

Accept an ‘I know it all’ attitude from any of your team members Have favourites for training – be prepared to give everyone the training they want and need Let team members keep knowledge and techniques to themselves – ask them to train others on what they have learned

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07/09/2021 08:54

wants to hear from you Do you have some s expert advice for your fellow salon owners that you’d love to share? Or maybe you would you like to be interviewed ffor the magazine?

36 We’re looking to add even more NHBF Member experience and expertise to the articles for the magazine. We would love you to come forward if you think you’ve got something to say from a barber, hair or beauty perspective – we want to hear from you all. You would be adding invaluable depth and insight and shaping the magazine’s content direction. Could you help? If so, please email the magazine’s assistant editor Hollie Ewers at hollie@ salonfocusmagazine.co.uk with your suggestions or for further information.

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HIV T HE BU SI NESS

hen the HIV epidemic ﬁrst raged in the 1980s and early 1990s, the virus was a terrifying unknown and diagnosis was a death sentence. Since then, things have come a long way. Modern treatments are eﬀective and easy to take, and a HIV-positive person on medication can live a normal life. With successful treatment, they cannot pass the virus on. Despite this, stigma remains a problem, with persistent myths and misunderstandings about how HIV can be passed on. Those living with the virus face being denied treatments or turned away if they share their status. So, what do professionals in the hair, beauty and barbering sectors need to know?

HIV AND THE SKIN Skin conditions are common and are among the early indicators of HIV infection. They range from those commonly seen in people without HIV, such as psoriasis and very dry skin, to the rare cancer Kaposi’s sarcoma, a tell-tale indicator of the virus. Bacterial, fungal or viral skin infections are also more common and more severe, as the HIV virus suppresses the immune system. On the scalp you might see seborrheic dermatitis – an inﬂammation of the skin around the sebaceous glands, causing red and ﬂaking skin.

THE STIGMA With World AIDS Day coming up on 1 December, how have modern treatments transformed what it means to live with HIV, and what do hairdressers, barbers and beauty therapists need to know about the virus? WORDS JULIETTE ASTRUP

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TH E BU SI N E S S H IV

" HAIRDRESSING AND BEAUTY ARE AMONG THE WORK LISTED BY THE HSE WHERE THERE MAY BE CONTACT WITH BLOOD OR BODILY FLUIDS The current picture

HEALTH AND SAFETY

Under the Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 and the Management of Health and Safety at Work Regulations 1999, employers have a legal duty to protect the health of employees and anyone else, for example the public, who may be affected by their work or present on their premises at any time. You must also give employees adequate information, instruction and training on any risks to their health that they may face at work.

HIV AND EMPLOYMENT ‘Someone with HIV is automatically considered to have a disability for the purposes of the Equality Act 2010,’ says Alexandra Farmer, head of partnerships legal team and solicitor at Ellis Whittam. ‘It is unlawful for an employer to treat a job applicant or employee less favourably than others because of a disability, or act in a way that disadvantages them. The law also protects job applicants and employees from harassment. Alexandra adds: ‘In this sector, there is no requirement for a job applicant or employee to disclose if they have HIV infection. It will be the individual’s choice. ‘Employers need to be careful about asking medical questions, especially pre-employment. Under section 60 of the Equality Act 2010, employers are prohibited from asking an applicant about their health, save for in limited circumstances.’

New HIV diagnoses have been dropping since 2005, but there are still just over 105,000 people living with HIV in the UK, according to the most recent estimate (2019). Of these, around 6600 are undiagnosed – so are unaware they are HIV positive.

Acting with understanding Keeping safe Blood-borne viruses such as HIV are mainly transmitted sexually or via direct exposure to infected blood. That can happen in the workplace through accidental contamination by a sharp instrument such as a needle, through open wounds, skin abrasions or skin damaged due to a condition such as eczema, or through splashes to the eyes, nose or mouth. Hairdressing and beauty are on the Health and Safety Executive’s

There is no risk of getting HIV through sharing utensils or other day-to-day contact, and people living with the virus who are on eﬀective treatment can’t pass it on – even through unprotected sex. However, misapprehensions persist. Taku Mukiwa, head of health programmes at the Terrence Higgins Trust, the UK’s leading HIV and sexual health charity, says salons and barbershops are important spaces for tackling HIV stigma. The charity targets them for that reason, especially those providing services to communities

IMAGES: ISTOCK

WHAT DOES THE LAW SAY?

(HSE’s) list of work where there may be contact with blood or bodily ﬂuids. It is something to consider in the event of nicks and cuts, when working with injectables or treatments such as dermarolling, and when performing waxing and nail services. In the case of the latter, the Hair And Beauty Industry Authority (Habia) advises taking precautions such as covering cuts and abrasions, especially on the hands, with a waterproof dressing, and never using equipment on more than one client unless it’s been sterilised. The guidance is clear that HIV is diﬃcult to pass from person to person, and that the virus cannot withstand the recommended disinfectants.

WHERE TO LEARN MORE The HSE's Blood-borne viruses in the workplace – Guidance for employers and employees: bit.ly/HSE-BBVs Fact and ﬁgures about HIV: bit.ly/HIV-statistics Terence Higgins Trust: tht.org.uk The HIV test ﬁnder: test.tht.org.uk National Aids Trust: nat.org.uk Habia code of practice for nail services: bit.ly/code-of-practice-nails

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HIV T HE BU SI NESS

that are disproportionately affected by HIV, explains Taku. While many salons and shops agree to display information posters, others are more proactive, inviting the charity to educate their staff and clients, distributing condoms, or even providing HIV home-testing kits. Taku adds: ‘Barbershops and salons are a space for information sharing and chatting about social issues, and if conversations about HIV and sexual health come up, it is good if staff are aware of what the realities are, so they can chip in with appropriate information and point people towards where they can find out more. ‘If they know the facts, they can help fight the stigma.’

IF CONVERSATIONS ABOUT HIV COME UP, IT IS GOOD IF STAFF ARE AWARE OF WHAT THE REALITIES ARE

A PERSONAL PERSPECTIVE Former salon manager and hairdressing educator Marie Batcock and her husband Allan, who is living with HIV, share their experiences. Allan says: ‘I know from forums and groups that a lot of people are turned away by beauty therapists and others – even dentists. Being rejected for treatment is

soul-destroying; it makes you feel like a leper and puts your mental health recovery back a long way. ‘If salons want to support people living with HIV, having a red ribbon in the shop is a discreet way to show that it is a safe space to talk.’ Marie adds: ‘If someone does tell you their status, you don’t need to turn them away or put gloves on and

cover up – you don’t need to treat them any differently. ‘Hairdressers can make a difference by knowing products to recommend that can help some of the side effects of treatment, such as dry skin or thinning hair. HIV can have a massive impact on someone’s mental health, and going to a salon or beauty therapist is an opportunity to help them look and feel better.’

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TH E I N SPI R AT ION TO O LS O F T H E T R A D E

TOOLS OF THE TRADE 40

What’s your secret weapon at work? We asked you and some of this issue’s interviewees about the tools they can’t do without.

MEGAN EMILY GREEN GREEN & CO SALON, RIPON APPRENTICES AND ASSISTANTS

‘The hidden gems at the salon that we couldn’t do our job without are our assistants and apprentices! They are the glue that keeps us together!’

SHABANA JUSAB

SHARON LOUISE JOHNSTONE

TRACEY HUGHES

BEAUTY BY SHABANA, BOLTON

HAIR COUTURE, TRANENT

NICHE HAIR, CHESTERFIELD

TWEEZERS

‘I have had my tweezers for more than 10 years. They have the perfect spring and perfect grip for little hairs. These are the best tweezers in the world and do not leave my sight.’

HOT TOOLS CURL BAR

‘I absolutely love the Hot Tools Curl Bar! The design is amazing as it’s so easy to use, and our clients love it. They sell really well, and clients ﬁnd it fantastic to use on their own hair, too. The Curl Bar is great for achieving various looks – from tight curls to loose curls or waves. The best hairstyling tool on the planet.’

CRICKET RADIAL BRUSHES

‘Some 32 years of hairdressing is taking its toll on my hands, wrists and arms. Carpal tunnel, arthritis and other issues mean I ﬁnd the rubber handle perfect, as I don’t need to grip too hard when using them. It saves a lot of strain on my hands and wrists. They’re a great quality brush and last for ages, plus they’re easy to clean.’

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TOOLS OF THE TRA DE THE I NSPI RAT I O N

HANNAH McKNIGHT

JENNIFER MANION

DANIEL MOON

NU ERA BARBERSHOP, GREAT WYRLEY

JENNY’S BARBERS SHOP, DARLINGTON

HAIR, LOS ANGELES

GAMMA+ XCELL ULTRA LIGHT DRYER

‘The tool I can’t do without is the Gamma+ Xcell Ultra Light Dryer. Super light, extremely powerful and really quiet.’

FLAT TOP COMB

‘Using the ﬂat top comb as a blending tool around back and sides saves time and produces neat results – once you try it, you’ll thank me.’

PAINT BRUSHES

‘I incorporate paint brushes for detailed colour so that I can create really tight lines and transitions in colour on my multidimensional pieces.’

ALECIA CARTER

SHEENAGH APPLETON

SHELDON EDWARDS

THAT BEAUTÉ PLACE, HUNTINGDON

ELYSIAN HAIR DESIGN, WETHERBY

HD CUTZ, LONDON

SMART PLUGS

‘Gone are the days of getting to my salon early to turn the wax on. With a smart plug, I can set timers based on my working hours to ensure my wax is at optimum temperature, ready for my first client, before I set foot in the salon. If I’ve forgotten to turn it off at the end of the day, my timer kicks in and turns it off. I can also override the timers and control them with an app on my phone.’

VELLEN HIGHLIGHTING COMBS

‘Vellen highlighting combs make highlighting hair simple, precise and faster. They come in various sizes for babylights, highlights and chunky highlights.’

CLIPPERS

‘I’m known as Mr HD because I use tools that give the sharp lines, so I can’t do without the shaver clipper. I use whatever does the mark sharp – there are a few products in the market, like the BaByliss, the Wahl and the Wahl Detailer, and JRL is really good at the moment.’

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TH E I N SPI R AT ION W H AT ' S T R E N D IN G

FASHIONABLE OR A FAUX PAS? Whether you embrace them or buck them, we take a look at the latest trends.

RED RED HOT 42

IMAGES: ALAMY / SHUTTERSTOCK / ICEY MILLI / IMAXTREE

WHAT’S UP, DUCK? CELEBRITY ‘SKI ‘SKINFLUENCERS’ Rihanna has topped a list ity skincare ce of celebr rs. The singer, ue inﬂuence in the most skincare actor and beauty entrepreneur appeared le, with 51,680. Goog by ed search searc es according to data analys Jenner third. Kylie and list, the on d secon was Lopez Jennif Jenn er tion, with inspira -up make ar Kylie was also the most popul d the most toppe n Anisto er Jennif while es, search 571,40 571,4 0 searches. popul popu ar hair inspiration list, with 601,600 inspiration from celeb at d looke and r furthe went The study Th Bowie David and y Twigg with Marilyn Monroe, p the past, es. search in three top ar popul most the provin prov g

HAIR REPORT

UK WOMEN’S HAIRCARE 2021 Last year’s change in women’s haircare behaviours signiﬁcantly impacted the market, resulting in an 8% decline in value to £1.26bn. Styling has seen the greatest setback, according to Mintel’s latest report.

Duck nails are having a moment, according to TikTok. Also known as ﬂared nails, wide tips or fan tips, the 2000s look is proving popular on social media. Adorned with gems, charms and bright colours, the trend has already racked up over 15 million views on TikTok. While the shape might not be favoured by everyone, the trend for nails adorned with themes and charms is proving popular with celebrities like Megan Thee Stallion, who regularly has nails sparkling with artwork from Japanese anime.

30%

of female shampoo users have shampooed their hair less frequently since the start of the pandemic

While the summer While W ttrends of hair h trend h balayage, Frenc F s and f face frame ring-li ring-l ghting have been all about the blonde tones, autumn/winter is set to see more crimson-inspired nal reds are tumna hues creep in. Autum the y nothing new, but this year ood ‘ro ar ‘rosew increasingly popullar cross various balayage’, seen across shows and beauty different catwalk show n/winter 2021, tumn/ campaigns for autum pop ar. y popul will be particularly o auburn, re of ture Combining a mixtu , the to ose tones strawberry and rose ha already rosewood balayage has been seen on the likes of Gigi Hadid be taking as been and Ciara – and has torm.. social media by storm

47%

of female haircare and styling users say hair density is a top ﬁve interest when it comes to personalised haircare/styling

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AGE-DEFYING HAIR A new Sex and the City series ction and the p is in produ , with characters are breaking over-50s hair ‘rules’ y waves bounc tte’s Charlo bob, um platin da’s Miran ’s grey face frames making statements. C and Carrie hair was also seen in Cannes this efying Age-d Ag e summer, with Tilda Swinton sporting a blond mane dark curly s owell’ MacD Andie and cut pixie embra embr cing its natural contrasting grey hues n – alleg – alle edly against her agent’s advice. Sharo Helen Stone showed off a short blond crop and with an Mirren Mirre was seen complementing her look it when rules no are on-tre on-tr nd hairband. There it! love we and – hair and age to s come

SECRET SKINCARE

Over half (56%) of UK males ‘steal’ their partner’s skincare products, a Clarins survey reveals. salonfocus highlighted the popularity of male skincare and grooming in our Summer issue, but it seems some guys are keeping it under the radar. The survey found that 14% of men used their partner’s products every day, while 19% used them ‘often’. UK men’s top skincare concern is dry skin (41%), with dark under-eye circles second (35%).

52%

of female haircare users are interested in using products made from sustainably sourced ingredients

HAD ANY THOUGHTS ABOUT WHAT YOU’VE READ? TELL US ON OUR SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORMS @NHBFSOCIAL

W HAT'S TRENDING THE I NSPI RAT I O N

THE LATEST

KEEPING YOU IN THE KNOW

SHINE SALON SUCCESS Do you struggle with raising your prices? Maybe you need our Content Creation toolkit to get you on track? Or our Instagram Reels toolkit to get you creating videos with conﬁdence? Or you want to make sure your Facebook page is performing as it should – bringing more clients and proﬁt through your salon doors?

MASTERING GREY The market potential of grey-haired clientele is growing every day – and if you want to fully capitalise on this exciting revenue opportunity, you need to be fully conﬁdent in your knowledge of grey hair and the services you are offering. In line with the launch of the sensational new True Grey product from Wella Professionals, the Wella Studios are launching a brand new ‘Mastering Grey’ course, offering the choice of either a 2.5 hour digitalonly session (£40), providing an introduction into this fascinating topic, or the full 1.5 day digital-studio hybrid, which gives a more comprehensive dive into the

Whatever you need, with Shine Salon Success membership we help you with ALL things business and marketing: from planning and pricing to contracts and health and safety, social media and websites. Whatever your focus, we take you through the stuff that’s always hard work so that you can focus on the salon you love. To ﬁnd out more, go to shine-salonsuccess.co.uk

world of grey hair and includes a practical workshop (£174). Dates are available from October 2021 and continue into 2022, at all studio locations. For more information, or to book, please call the London Studio on 0203 650 4700, Manchester or our Edinburgh Studios on 0161 834 2645 or the Dublin Studio on 01 4160 900. Alternatively, visit education.wella.com

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TH E I N SPI R AT ION HOW TO...

ith a lack of face-to-face retail opportunities, many salons have moved online to survive. However, a web-only shop isn’t just a temporary solution – it’s good for your business in the long run. Selling products online can help you reach more potential clients, not just in the UK but also around the world, says Bluepark’s assistant director Cate Coles. ‘These people wouldn’t know about you otherwise, because they’re not local. It also allows bricks-and-mortar clients to buy products from you any time of the day or week.’ Figures from the Oﬃce for National Statistics show that online shopping continues to boom in Great Britain. In January 2021, it accounted for around 35% of total sales, up from almost 20% in January 2020. Cate says this is only set to increase as ‘people are becoming more and more used to shopping online’.

BUILD AN ONLINE STORE WORDS KELLIE SMITH

IMAGE: SHUTTERSTOCK

Having an online shop can help you grow your business. Cate Coles from Bluepark shares her top tips for setting up an online shop and reaching more clients.

HAVE EVERYTHING IN ONE PLACE

Having a separate website and shop on diﬀerent domains can get complicated, and people may struggle to ﬁnd you online. It’s best to

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HOW TO... THE I NSPI RAT I O N

have everything in one place. This will also help your Google rankings (the position at which your website is listed on Google when a user searches a phrase or keyword).

SET YOURSELF APART FROM THE CROWD

Set yourself apart from big online retailers by oﬀering a more personal service. Make sure clients know you’re there to help them. Add a photo of yourself to your site to help people connect with you. Consider having a live chat option to show people you’re available and happy to answer questions. A lot of retailers are scared about live chats, but you don’t need to sit there all day waiting for people to come online. When you’re not there, you can change the settings so people can send you an email instead.

KEEP THE DESIGN SIMPLE

Make sure your site is clean and uncluttered, so people can ﬁnd what they’re looking for. Keep the branding the same as your salon so people make that connection. Also, update your homepage regularly to make it more engaging.

GET THE WORD OUT TO PEOPLE

I would recommend having a presence on social media, as well as running ads on Instagram and Facebook to push your products in front of people. You can set a budget (from as little as £1 per day) so you control how much you spend. It’s essential to have your website address on everything, especially within your salon. You could also reach more people in your local area by distributing ﬂyers with your website address on it.

OUR EXPERT

CATE COLES Cate is the assistant director of Bluepark, a UK-based e-commerce software platform that helps businesses build, maintain and grow their own online shops. The platform has a range of built-in tools to help you design and market your shop. Check out bluepark.co.uk for more information.

MANAGE THE LOGISTICS

Depending on how much you’re selling, I’d recommend handling packing and dispatching yourself – it can be expensive to outsource. A lot of e-commerce platforms integrate with Royal Mail Click & Drop so you can print out labels and drop packages at selected points.

OFFER INCENTIVES

To encourage people to buy from your shop, oﬀer incentives like loyalty points and discounts. You could also increase sales by creating bundles that show people the best products to buy together. It’s worth oﬀering subscriptions for shampoos and conditioners, so people can place repeat orders. They won’t have to worry about running out and it gives you regular income.

PHYSICAL VERSUS VIRTUAL PRODUCTS Cate says: ‘With Christmas coming up, I would focus on selling physical products like gift sets. When you hit that point where you can’t guarantee they will arrive on time, start promoting gift vouchers for anyone who misses the dispatch deadline.’

TOP FOUR TIPS

REBECCA WORLSEY, CEO OF RAINY CITY AGENCY Think about your user experience. Make sure your navigation is linked up to allow an easy-to-use shopping experience. Use a third party app to allow customers to leave reviews and build the credibility of your brand and products. Add a pop-up to capture email addresses so you can start marketing to clients. Use high-quality product images so people can zoom in on them. Make sure they are all the same size, so your site looks professional. rainycityagency.com

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TH E N H BF R O U N D - U P

cr t A new recruit WHO? Rosina Robson POSITION: NHBF director of policy and public aﬀairs

EXPERIENCE: Rosina has a wealth of experience in promoting and

representing and creative g small a businesses, having ng previously worked for the Federation of Small Businesses and the Producers Alliance for Cinema and TV.

COMMENTS: ‘Having spent a lifetime attempting to

tame my wayward curly hair, I have huge respect for the industry’s craft,’ Rosina says. ‘I’m delighted to join the NHBF and build on my track record of delivering successful public aﬀairs campaigns to support the industry through recovery and beyond.’

WHAT’S HAPPENING? Here’s a quick look at what the NHBF has been up to. TOP 100 INFLUENCERS In July, the NHBF launched the Hair & Beauty Industry – Top 100 Influencers. It was an opportunity to recognise those who use social media to influence, educate and innovate the sector. We invited the industry to nominate those who they think are the most influential in social media, including hairdressers, barbers, beauty therapists, nail technicians, make-up artists and aestheticians. Nominations closed on 30 September. The final Top 100 will be

revealed on 14 November, so keep an eye on our social media channels for further details. You won’t want to miss it!

CLUBHOUSE ACTIVITES The NHBF has continued to host weekly ‘rooms’ on Clubhouse on Mondays at 12pm, covering a range of topics such as strategy and recovery, the next generation of apprentices and learners, managing the public perceptions of the industry, ﬁnancial support during the

pandemic, staff motivation, social media marketing and more. To get involved, download the Clubhouse app via the App Store or Google Play and search nhbfsocial.

SHAPING THE FUTURE

revealed a decline in the number of hair and beauty apprentices year-on-year, so we wanted to get the industry debating what the future of hairdressing could look like, and whether it is what we want. We hosted a range of Q&As across our social media channels, worked with Concept Hair Magazine to understand their apprentices’ and learners’ feelings towards their future careers, and developed a series of blog posts – read them at nhbf.co.uk/ news-and-blogs/blog Join the conversation on our social channels @nhbfsocial and include #shapingthefutureof theindustry

NATIONAL ASSOCIATION AWARDS – WE WON BIG We’re so happy about our recent awards win – and we want to show off our trophy photos. The NHBF was crowned the winner in several categories at the National Association Awards, which celebrates the hard work carried out by membership organisations across all sectors. We won: Gold – Best Social Media Gold – Best Membership Organisation (up to 10,000) Silver – Best Covid Response

The NHBF dedicated July to the new generation of hair and beauty apprentices and learners just starting out in their career with our Shaping the Future of the Industry campaign. Our annual Industry Statistics Survey

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ROUND -UP T HE NHBF

WHAT’S NEW? Focus on mental health and wellbeing

The NHBF has produced a series of new blog posts to help support you and your business. These include: Is your salon and barbershop disability friendly? Spotlight on apprenticeships Spotlight on VAT Beat the clock: time management How can your salon or barbershop adopt more male grooming services? How to take good photographs for your digital channels All available at nhbf.co.uk/news-andblogs/blog As well as new blogs, there has also been an update to the Members-only guide for consultation and industry tests for beauty salons. Read the latest at nhbf.co.uk/ consultation-for-beauty

IMAGES: ISTOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK

New apprenticeship standard The NHBF has been involved in the development of a new apprenticeship standard. The Level 3 in Wellbeing and Holistic Therapist is ﬁnally open for delivery by the Institute for Apprenticeships and Technical Education. Caroline Larissey, NHBF director of quality and standards, says: ‘The approval of the standard is very timely, as it provides an additional pathway for beauty therapists, continues to raise the bar and enables therapists to provide broader therapeutic services to support client mental and emotional wellness via a range of holistic and wellbeing therapies.’ A copy of the standard and assessment plan can be found at bit.ly/IAET-WHT The hair professional apprenticeship standards at Level 2 are also up for review – look out for the consultation in the autumn and the new standards in spring/summer 2022.

COMING SOON….

THE NHBF APP

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TH E BU SI N E S S M A L E G R O O M IN G

Do you know your hair type? The NHBF has published the blog: Do you know your hair type? The new post explains the three different hair textures and four different hair types. To read the blog and understand the different hair types and textures, visit nhbf.co.uk/hair-type

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MEET AND GREET A number of NHBF Members across the UK were busy welcoming MPs into their salons in August and September. The visits, organised by the NHBF, oﬀered salon owners and their employees the opportunity to meet MPs, legislators and decision-makers, and to discuss the challenges faced over the

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last year and the impact of government support. They also discussed areas where the government could provide further support in the future, for example regarding apprenticeships and business rates. Glam Rock Studios in Liverpool was among the salons visited by Peter Dowd MP.

Did you know that, as an NHBF Member, you beneﬁt from 10% off your PPL music licence? If you’re about to renew, call the membership team to ﬁnd out more. Remember – if you play music in your salon or barbershop, you must be licensed.

MEMBER SURVEY Keep your eyes peeled for the next NHBF Member survey. Your feedback is really important to us, and we’d love to hear what you ﬁnd most useful as a Member and what we can do to improve.

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10/09/2021 13:16

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07/09/2021 08:55

TH E E N D 6 0 S E C O N DS W IT H . . .

SHELDON EDWARDS A.K.A MR HD The global barber and entrepreneur shares his story of success and why he’s passionate about inspiring the next generation. 50 I’m a third-generation barber… From 10 years old I was in my dad’s shop in Jamaica to watch over the barbers and make sure everything ran smoothly. I migrated to the UK in 1998 and went to the local barber to ask for a job. They gave me one and I’ve been cutting hair ever since.

IMAGE: GETTY

HD Cutz… came about after I did a cut for footballer Mousa Dembélé. My colleagues were fascinated by the high-deﬁnition cut and the name stuck. Mousa took me to Euro 2016 and introduced me to more players.

When you love what you do… you never work a day in your life. My love for barbering has got me wanting to use all my minutes doing it. I’m happy to travel across the world to cut hair. I spend a lot of time… training staﬀ and making sure all of us are putting in the same work – I want to be precise about how it looks. It’s about the HD ﬁnish and capturing what the client has in mind, bringing it to life.

The attention I received during Euro 2020 was crazy… I didn’t know Phil Foden’s haircut and colour was going to go viral. The whole England team said that if they won then everyone would go blond – it’s a great feeling to see we started a trend.

My favourite look… aside from the colour I did for Phil, last year I created twists for Raheem Sterling that looked great and changed his image. They went viral and everyone started requesting them. I would love to get my hands on…

Education is key… Seek to learn every single day – you can never have too much education. I’m passionate about my role on the City & Guilds Industry Advisory Board. I believe barbers have to be on the same page.

I dreamed of being a doctor… but I’m happy that I found my purpose in barbering and get to help people in a diﬀerent way.

Lionel Messi. I’ve worked on many athletes and footballers, but I’d love to give Messi his ﬁrst HD cut.

The future is about growing… I want to open more shops and launch more products, and there’s also the education side of things with my online academy coming soon – I want to keep on creating employment for aspiring barbers.

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10/09/2021 12:50

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08/09/2021 10:53

Salonfocus Autumn 2021

Articles inside

Round-up

How to

60 seconds with

What’s trending

Compassion

Upskilling employees

Christmas

Men’s mental health

Apprenticeships

HIV

From cyber space to salon

Hello and welcome