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C R E D I T S Publisher: VIVIAN-ANNE GITTENS Editor: LYLE JONES Advertising Manager: PAULETTE JONES Editorial Team: OMAR ROBERTSON, TREVOR BENSON, LYLE JONES, GERCINE CARTER Consulting Chef: OMAR ROBERTSON Mixologist: DAMEAIN WILLIAMS Senior Creative Coordinator: ASHIF NAKHUDA Photography: MARK KING, DAN CHRISTALDI, INSIGHT DIGITAL Design/Layout: RANDY PHILLIPS – IMAGEWORX Advertising Executive:DEBBIE BRATHWAITE - TEL: (246) 430-5518 Email: debbiebrathwaite@nationnews.com Advertising coordinator: WENDEY DELANEY – TEL: 430-5517 Printers: PRINTWEB CARIBBEAN LTD (246) 434-6719
Editor’s Note It’s that time of year when thoughts of Christmas shift into high gear. The dinner parties, award functions, the food .... Much of the celebration of the season centres on the cuisine, as professional chefs and specialist cooks at home pull out all the stops to present their finest dishes on their finest dinnerware, to be consumed using their finest cutlery. Oh yes, while sipping their finest wines. In this, the premier issue of Fine Cuisine magazine, the latest in our stellar line of publications, we at The Nation Publishing Co. Limited join in the celebration of all that the season is to Barbadians. We present it as our gift to you, with a menu that will enlighten and inform while whetting the appetite. From dining options for those seeking to pamper themselves during the season, and helpful tips on budgetwise entertaining to setting the table just right, it’s all inside. Our top flight team of contributors, led by Executive Chef Omar Robertson, managing director of In-Fusion Catering
Services, has provided you with palate-pleasing recipes, tantalizing cocktails, and advice that will help you make the act of eating a whole new and more fulfilling experience. You’ll meet chef extraordinaire Henderson Butcher, leader of Barbados’ Gold Award-winning Taste Of The Caribbean culinary team, who not only shares his own inspiring story but one of his signature recipes as well. We’ll take you inside the world of Cin Cin, where restaurateur Chef Larry Rogers has done it again, creating a new dining experience that’s all the rave. From our cover, featuring Chef Robertson’s savoury Christmas Spiced Duck with Candied Sweet Potato and Pea Purée, to the very last page, Fine Cuisine magazine is sure to provide a feast for all readers to enjoy. We’d love to hear from you, please call us or drop us a line and let us know what you think of Fine Cuisine. Be sure to look out for our upcoming edition at Easter time.
Fine Cuisine is produced by The Nation Publishing Co. Limited; a subsidiary of The Nation Corporation, which is a member of the One Caribbean Media Limited (OCM) group of companies. For General Info email: finecuisine@nationnews.com Every effort has been made to ensure that the information contained within this magazine is accurate, however, The Nation Publishing Co. Limited cannot be held responsible for any consequences that may arise from any errors or omissions. This publication cannot be copied in whole or in part without the explicit permission of the Publisher. ©2011 Nation Publishing Co. Limited 2 FineCuisine
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C O N T R I B U T O R S
OMAR ROBERTSON
Christmas Spiced Duck with Candied Sweet Potato and Pea Puree created by chef Omar Robertson. Photographed by Mark King
Contents Easy Cooking 06
Omar is the Executive Chef and owner of In-fusion Catering Services. Focusing on his own brand of fusion cuisine, Omar blends his training in Classic French Cuisine and his West Indian background to great fun, whimsical plays on classic dishes, reimagined and rethought. A graduate of Le Cordon Bleu Paris, Ottawa Culinary Institute, Omar also holds a Professional Diploma in Cookery from the Stratford Chef School, where he furthered his culinary training and learned restaurant management and design
TREVOR BENSON Trevor is a passionate and driven young Canadian foodie who is thankful and proud to call Barbados home. Trevor is a creative autodidact when it comes to cooking and is thrilled to be working in the food and beverage industry. “I value food provenance, enjoy using and consuming local produce, and strongly support small business,� he says.
Enjoying The Season 08 Without Breaking The Bank How To Set A Dinner Table 10 Time And Space: 12 Ingregients For Slow Eating Exciting The World With Bajan Flavours 14 Glass Elegance 20 Christmas Cocktails 24 Recipes 26 Cin Cin, A Fresh New Taste 30 In Fine Dining What Are You Waiting For? 34 Get With It Already! A True Christmas Tradition 38 Delectable Delights 42 4 FineCuisine
DAMEAIN WILLIAMS Dameain Williams’ journey to ďŹ nding his way behind a bar and creating some of the most tantalising cocktails started by doing dishes as a favour for a friend in a restaurant. Shortly after, he discovered his real passion, the BAR. Ten years later, Dameain is a top special functions bartender and a member of the Caribbean Mixologists’ Guild, he is head bartender/mixologist and partner with ‘Bar by In-fusion’, a bar services company.
MARK KING Mark is passionate about all things photography. His photography takes him around the world, and allows him to participate in artist-inresidences and group exhibitions. This enables Mark to pursue new projects and collaborate with creative people around the globe. Travel has played a large part in his life. He has called The Bahamas, Barbados, Brussels, San Francisco, and Washington D.C. home.
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Entertaining
Enjoying The Season Without Breaking the Bank
’T
is the season of good cheer, the time of year when social activity shifts into high gear. But with current costs rising at the pace they are, one is left to anxiously question whether the annual Christmas lunch, dinner, lime, get-together or party will fall victim to the harsh economic times. While financial concerns will dictate your steps this season, there’s no real reason to do away with your long held traditions. In fact, with an approach tailored to suit the times you can continue your traditional celebrations or establish new ones without running yourself into the poorhouse. Don’t be afraid to discuss money-saving strategies with friends and family either. With today’s economic challenges, most people are probably experiencing some of the same financial concerns as you and will appreciate your efforts to make the holidays easier and more enjoyable for everyone. The secret to staging a successful event, whatever the
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size, is planning and sticking to your plan. Of necessity your first decision will be determining your budget, as this will help to decide the type of party you can afford. The good thing about following this sort of plan is that once you stick with it, you’re unlikely to be burdened afterwards with the money woes that usually accompany overspending. Working within a budget does not mean you can’t throw a great party or entertain as much as you’d like either. You can host a successful event without busting the bank. Here are some entertaining tips and ideas for those on a budget. First off, decide on a theme. A theme party will make it easier for you not only to restrict your costs, but can provide novel ways to have fun in the process. It will determine the menu, drinks, the dress code, décor and can provide the opportunity to engage in other fun activity.
AMONG THE POPULAR CHOICES COULD BE: • A Cocktail Party. Guests will be standing and mingling and hors d’oeuvres can be the order of the evening. They are easy to prepare and are always a hit and appropriate for any occasion. The key is to serve simple food that can be eaten easily. • Potluck Party. Keep it casual and invite your friends over for potluck, where everyone brings a dish to share. You would need to handle only the main food item – something that’ll feed many for little money. You can then assign friends to provide drinks, salads, rolls, desserts and so on. For more fun activity, top off the evening with group games – board games, card games, party games or video games. Pick something to match your guests’ style. • Wine Tasting and Fondue Party. Each guest can bring a wine to share, and you provide only the food. Fondue makes a great companion for this party because you cut all the food into individual bites and make a little food go a long way. Plan for three fondue courses, plus a simple salad to round out the meal: Cheese: Dip breads, fruits and veggies into a pot of melted swiss or cheddar. Entrée: Marinate a variety of steak, chicken and shrimp ahead of time for guests to cook in hot oil or broth. Dessert: Provide fruit, cake and marshmallows to dip in melted chocolate. • Movie Night. Children and adults alike will enjoy a classic holiday film. Select one from your collection or pick one up from the video store for cheap entertainment. Alternatively, you could invite each guest to bring a movie from home (holiday-themed or not), and the collective group can vote on the one to watch. • Dessert Night. Making a full dinner to feed your friends or family can be expensive. Instead, invite everyone over for dessert. Your guests can pitch in to make ice-cream treats, provide seasonal delicacies like black cake, or perennial favourites like sweetbread, pudding, cheesecake, cookies – the possibilities are endless. Or you could ask guests to bring their favourite seasonal goodie to share. Of course coordination would be key here as you wouldn’t want too much of the same thing. Of course there are the big events like the Christmas dinner or lunch where we pull out all the stops and indulge to our hearts’ content, so to speak, but even with these “big” events there are ways to ease the pinch on all. Many families have holiday meal traditions, and a holiday dinner wouldn’t be the same without certain family dishes. However, you don’t have to forego tradition, use the team approach, it will not only relieve some of your stress, but will also help relieve some of the financial burden. Contact everyone on your guest list and see who can bring a dish. If you choose to prepare the meats, others can take care of the starches, cooked vegetables, salads, specialty dishes like jug-jug, desserts, and drinks – both soft and the stronger stuff. If you’re serving alcohol and decide to handle the bar yourself, consider restricting variety, since purchasing a variety of liquors and mixers can get expensive. For the softer stuff, you can always opt for a bowl of holiday punch for guests to enjoy. If the gathering will stress your supply of dining utensils, crockery and so on, augment your resources by designating others to bring what you deem necessary. It’ll surely save you spending on items you are unlikely to use regularly enough to justify the expense. Of course you’ll have to be diligent when coordinating who brings what, so you don’t end up with too much of any one thing and none of the other. Whatever you do, remember that the luncheon, dinner, party or lime is enjoyable because of your company and not just the food. So keeping it simple or sharing the expense among friends and/or family will allow you to enjoy the traditional fare of the season in an easy and economical way, ensuring that everyone can reflect on fond memories and dreams fulfilled without looking forward to realities of paying dearly for a season enjoyed in the new year.
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Entertaining
How To Set a Dinner Table
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his Christmas, remember the right way to set your table. With Christmas around the corner, there are so many thoughts; family, friends, presents, Christmas trees, but the most important one is the one that brings it all together, Christmas lunch and/or dinner. Everyone gathered around the table or tables depending on how big your gathering may be, great food, great company, so why not add a touch of class this year and really go all out and set the table it was meant to be. We provided you with two options; the first is the classic formal setting, time-tested and true, and used everywhere from Buckingham Palace to the White House. The second is a more modern setting used in restaurants and more practical in use. The one unbreakable rule for how to set a dinner table like is that everything must be geometrically spaced – all places must be at equal distances, and all sterling silver flatware balanced.
1. THE FORMAL SETTING:
2. THE MODERN SETTING:
We always must remember with a table setting like this, we use the cutlery from the outside and work our way to the inside, according to the course. We start in this setting with (1) a soup spoon for our first course; this is followed by our salad or second course where we use our first (2) knife and fork. Next would be our main course, and we would use our (3) main knife and fork. This is followed by our dessert course, utilising our final (4) fork and/or spoon. Our bread plate (5) is always to the left of the diner or if space is an issue on your table, it may be placed above the forks and in line with the wine glasses. Note, however, when set to the left of the diner, the butter knife (6) is in line at the base with all of the other cutlery, approximately one inch, a thumbnail, from the base of the placemat. The glasses are set from left to right, such as (7) water goblet (8) red wine glass (9) white wine glass, being perfectly spaced at the base and each touching the edge of the placemat .
This, while similar to the formal setting, is a bit more practical. The amount of cutlery in the setting can vary depending on how many courses you have but the real difference lies in the configuration of the glasses. You still start with the cutlery on the outside and work your way in but the glasses are set in a more practical fashion. Your water goblet (6) is all the way to the right, the opposite to the formal setting where the water goblet is on the left. This is followed by the white wine glass (7), then the red wine glass (8). The reason for this is twofold: the first is simple, we reach for the water glass most often when we are eating, so, being on the far right makes it easily accessible. The second is due to the fact then when you are having a multicourse meal, you tend to start with an appetizer followed by a fish course then a meat course followed by dessert. Fish and seafood is normally paired with a white wine and meats with a red wine; as such, the glasses are set this way. This is not to say however that if you’re having fish followed by chicken or two meats that you cannot set two white wine glasses or two red wine glasses. The beauty of the modern setting is, it allows you greater flexibility depending on the meal. So I hope that was informative for you, and I hope this season you use our helpful tips to make your Christmas gathering extra special.
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1
The one unbreakable rule for how to set a dinner table is that everything must be geometrically spaced all places must be at equal distances, and all sterling silver atware balanced.
2 PHOTOGRAPHED ON LOCATION AT DWELLINGS WHERE ALL ITEMS ARE AVAILABLE. 11 FineCuisine
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Entertaining
Time & Space Ingredients Ingredients for for slow eating STORY BY TREVOR BENSON
W
hether you eat to live or live to eat, remembering the last thing you ate should be easy. This is because eating is so much a part of everyone’s daily life, and in all likelihood the last thing you consumed would have only been hours if not minutes ago. I ate a tuna burger. But if you were asked specific questions about your last meal – such as, how long did it take for you to eat and did the space in which you ate contribute to your eating experience? – your answers may be general at best. You may be a ‘head-down notalk eater-on-the-run’ type of person and, as such, the time you take to eat and where you eat may not always register. The truth is that people eat so much and so often that such details are often tossed out with the remains on their plates. But what is most fascinating is that it is both time and space that help to shape and define those eating experiences – whether they are occasional, weekly, or daily – that offer more to us than just sustenance. The process of eating provides us with the chance to slow down, both physically and mentally, and this is often undervalued in our modern society. Eating slowly is a lot healthier than “inhaling” your food. Digestion is improved, excessive consumption is curtailed, and wiser nutritional choices are made when you slow down to eat. These factors contribute to weight loss, reduction of heartburn 12 FineCuisine
occurrence, and provide more long lasting energy. Eating slowly also brings you closer to your food, which allows you to properly taste it, query the contents, and to learn more about it. Finally, when you take the time to eat you are more likely to enjoy food with others, meet new people, and socialise. Unfortunately, fast eating is often both sought after and achieved. Fast food, “to-go” meals, frozen dinners, and eating on the run are taking over the average person’s life. Consequently, eating for the benefit of your physical and social wellbeing is often relegated to the backburner. This is because the role of space is often taken out of the eating equation. When something is wrapped in an easy to hold package or served in a surrounding that does not make you want to linger, the likelihood of your desire to sit down with others is reduced. As a result, you may choose to eat in your car, at the office, or somewhere that is private. In contrast, a space that is inviting, comfortable, and encourages you to stay, will no doubt provide you with enough time to eat better, slower, and with others. This is why both slowing down to eat and creating spaces that encourage slow eating are so important. Think back to your last great eating experience. Mine involved sharing amazingly prepared “family-style” food with friends at a communal table; it was perfect!
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Featured Chef
Exciting The World with Bajan Flavours STORY BY GERCINE CARTER
H
enderson Butcher delights in exciting the palate with Bajan flavours. He is Barbados’ award-winning chef whose take on traditional local dishes continues to tantalize yet win the approval of judges whenever he competes. “My mother was a very excitable cook. She made anything taste good, so even if I did not want to eat it when she was finished, I did.” This is where this chef’s interest in cooking was sparked. “ We had this thing where my mother used to bake some pound cake or sweet bread on Sundays and I remember one Sunday I just got up and said ‘Mom, you don’t get up, just shout from the bedroom and tell me what to do’, and I have been doing this kind of thing ever since then. I just like to create.” He was about 13 or 14 when he began to fully appreciate his late mother’s tremendous culinary ability. “After she died, I just turned my sights on to cooking.”
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Henderson cut his culinary teeth at Fathoms seafood restaurant soon after leaving St George Secondary School. “That is when I really learnt what cooking was all about,” and he acknowledges the assistance of more experienced colleagues in the kitchen like Derek Cox and Fabian Edwards. As he engaged in the practical, a thirst for theoretical knowledge developed, pushing him to enroll at the Hospitality Division at Barbados Community College where he graduated after a three-year programme. He honed his skills working first at Grand Barbados as a line cook and his commitment soon caught the eye of management who recognized his potential. Promotion after promotion came in quick succession. Back then, he remembers ,“some people called me miserable, but I like to think that you need to be serious because it is your name you are representing every time you put something on a plate”. “I believe people eat first with their eyes when they see the presentation.”
Award-winning Barbadian chef Henderson Butcher tantalizes palates everywhere with his take on Bajan food, pouring his passion for cooking into the dishes he creates.
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He is indeed big on presentation, and makes the analogy between food and the girlfriend/ boyfriend relationship with the man’s expectations for his partner’s appearance and smell. “I usually say food is sexy, it smells good, it looks good.” Early in his career Henderson resolved to gain as much experience as possible. When he joined the kitchen staff of the popular Waterfront Café, it was “to have a different experience in cooking.” A stint at Southern Palms hotel afforded another opportunity to broaden his horizons. That was also when he first tasted competition and has not looked back since. The chef, who readily confesses “I love competition cooking,” has been part of Barbados’ culinary team at the regional Taste Of The Caribbean competition virtually every year since it resumed. On his first occasion managing the team, he was challenged to speak on a Barbadian dish in six minutes in such a way as to make people feel they wanted to be there to experience it. Henderson’s presentation was on pudding and souse. It won him Barbados’ only gold medal at the regional culinary competition and the title of Team Manager of the Year. In the two ensuing years he has been manager of a gold-award-winning Taste of the Caribbean Barbados team, an achievement for which he does not hide his pride. Wherever he has gone, this Barbadian has made his presence felt. He has done quite a bit of travelling especially when he worked along with well-known chef Max Benz at the Savannah Hotel and was given the opportunity to showcase his talent in Germany, Switzerland and across the United States.
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“I like taking what Barbadians say is Bajan food and putting it on a plate to make you say ‘wow, I never thought you could do it like that.” Everywhere his message in his cooking has been the excitement of Barbadian, and to some extent, West Indian cooking. Wherever he mounts his station, alone or with others in a Barbados team, large numbers seek him out and spread the word about the food served. Little wonder he has been a popular choice of the Barbados Hotel & Tourism Association and sometimes the Barbados Tourism Authority for promotional trips showcasing the best of Barbados. Patrons thronged his station when he did demonstration cooking at a Food and Wine Festival in South Beach Florida. He has participated in New York’s Food and Wine Festival, promoting Barbadian cuisine there, and has been part of a culinary team to Philadelphia doing show cooking in restaurants. Henderson also joined chefs from across the United States for a cooking display in New York’s Central Park where hundreds sampled the food. There is a certain passion when he speaks about his culinary exploits. It is because he believes Barbados has a lot to offer the epicurean world. And he is bold in his promotional efforts. For example, he did not share the anxiety of Barbados Tourism Authority officials as he and his team once served pudding and souse and Bajan soup at a Food Network event in South Beach, Florida. To his delight, the two dishes were in big demand by the patrons who found the Barbados station as word spread. Henderson says Bajan flavours are “different and unique”. Experienced for the first time, they evoke the “wow” response, “so I very much like to push Barbadian and Caribbean food which brings you into the whole rustic elegance side”. He has adopted the name Rustic Elegance for his private catering company and observes “if you look at our food, much of it is really very rustic and what I like to do with it is make it into something elegant. “For example, instead of having a sloppy cou cou on the plate, it looks like a piece of art with a wonderful presentation.” Henderson’s signature is in the presentation of dishes. “I like taking what Barbadians say is Bajan food and putting it on a plate to make you say ‘wow, I never thought you could do it like that.” But that’s not all, he enjoys jazzing things up a bit, putting a new spin on old, traditional Barbadian dishes. Who else would think of making pork conkies – porkchops marinated with everything that goes into the Bajan conkie except the sweet potato, wrapped in a banana leaf and cooked in the smoker; or fried soursop coated with Bajan spices. . .” “Anything you can make, look and taste different in the Barbadian way, I like that – strange combinations that really work,” is the way Henderson explains it. He suggests; “We need to get back to the roots where we make our food so wonderful that anybody who does not belong to Barbados knows that something is going on when they smell the aromas coming from the oven and the stove top.” There is a bold approach to his innovativeness and he declares: “ I will cook anything, but I love the Caribbean side because I believe our flavours are unique. The way we prepare food, the way we use our spices I believe is a little different to the rest of the world, and I believe the rest of the world is now catching up.” The more I do, the more it makes me feel energized to continue and go forward. The enterprising young Barbadian, who is currently head chef at Waves Hotel, is already looking forward to his next competition. “The more I do the more it makes me feel energized to continue and go forward.” FineCuisine 17
I have found that using the flavours of Barbados in new ways lends to the birth of new and exciting things. In this recipe I have used, every ingredient except the the pork and coconut milk has its own fat. I replaced the pumpkin with the pork to create this wonderful, mouth-watering dish that friends and family love so much.
PORK CONKIES By Chef Henderson Butcher YOU’LL NEED
DIRECTIONS:
1 1 1
1. Take your fresh green banana leaves and strip the leaves from the stalk with a sharp knife. Then singe the leaves over a naked flame just long enough to make them pliable. 2. Now tear your leaves into squares big enough to wrap your Marinated pork and potatoes. 3. Peel and slice the sweet potatoes and set aside in cold water. 4. Next, mix all the ingredients together in a large mixing bowl until the sugar has dissolved. 5. Add your pork to the mixture and allow to rest overnight in the fridge. 6. When ready the next day, set up the banana leaf, place sliced sweet potatoes at the bottom, one pork chop and close leaf. Repeat this until you have done all and place them in the steamer for the stove top or oven 7. This should cook for about two hours in the steamer to make sure your pork is tender.
Sharp knife Large mixing bowl Steamer
INGREDIENTS Fresh 5 2 2 1.5 2 2 2 4 3
green banana leaves lbs pork chops( bone out) cup of whole milk tsp salt lbs brown sugar tsp of spice tsp Nutmeg tsp of almond essence lbs sweet potato tins coconut milk
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Serve Pork Conkies in banana leaves just as you would normal conkies.
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Entertaining
Glass
Elegance
Red Wine Glass
White Wine Glass
Champagne Flute
BRANDY SNIFTERS have short stems to facilitate the transfer of heat from the holder’s hand to the liquid. Though brandy is consumed in much smaller amounts than wine, the brandy snifter is as large as a red wine glass because Brandy needs a lot of space to breathe in order to be enjoyed properly. Brandy snifters are also available in a stemless variety. The modern design is said to have increased durability by excluding the fragile stem, while offering both style and functionality. Without the stem, these glasses are less delicate than the traditional stemmed glasses and easier to wash and store. A GOBLET GLASS is an all-purpose glass for serving wine, cocktails, specialty drinks, iced tea, or water.
Brandy Snifter
Wine is a beverage that is best enjoyed when tasted with a specific glass. Some connoisseurs say the taste of a wine changes when you drink it out of different types of glasses. In this regard, three aspects of a glass are important: its size, its shape, and its thickness. The type of wine glass you choose, therefore, can change the flavour characteristics of the wine, making it more or less desirable, depending on the circumstances. When serving wine, as well as other alcoholic beverages, using the correct glasses will ensure that you experience the flavour as it is meant to be tasted. There are basically two types of wine glasses: one that’s used to serve white wine, and the other is used for red wine. THE RED WINE GLASS features a fuller, rounder bowl with a larger opening to allow you to dip your nose into the glass to detect aroma. Depending on the specific glass, its rim may taper significantly to form a tulip shape or it might be less tapered. THE WHITE WINE GLASS has a more U-shaped and upright bowl allowing the aromas to be released while also maintaining a cooler temperature. CHAMPAGNE FLUTES are used with champagne for two reasons. They have a long stem for holding the glass to prevent the heat from the holder’s hand from warming the champagne. Secondly, the elongated shape of the glass preserves the bubbles for a longer period.
Stemless Brandy Snifter
Water Goblet
MARTINI GLASSES have a stem, and a triangular shaped bowl and vary in size between 3 and 12 oz. Its wide open brim is said to produce surface tension that brings out the bouquet of the gin and creates a nicer display of the olive garnish than a standard cocktail glass. The coned shape also keeps the ingredients of the drink from separating. Martini glasses are often chilled before serving by filling the glass with a water and ice mixture while mixing the cocktail. THE SHOT GLASS is a little over two inches tall and one and-a-half inches in diameter at the base. It holds about 1.5 oz. of alcohol. Quality shot glasses are made with thicker glass than typical glassware because it is tradition when taking a shot to throw the contents back quickly, then slam the glass down onto the table. The glass thus needs to be thicker otherwise it could break.
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Shot Glass
FOR A WIDE SELECTION OF GLASSES VISIT SHOP SMART.
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Mystic Black Ingredients Mount Gay Eclipse Black Ginger syrup Lime juice Simple syrup Angostura bitters Coke
2 oz 1 oz ½ oz ¾ oz 1 splash Top up
Method: Fill rocks glass with ice. Shake all ingredients and strain into glass. Top up with Coke and garnish with a cherry.
Christmas Me & Mrs Jones Ingredients Coconut Malibu Kaluah Baileys Mint tea
1 oz ½ oz 2 oz 1 oz
Method: Decorate martini glass with chocolate syrup, shake all ingredients and strain into glass. Sprinkle cinnamon and/or spray whipped cream on top
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“Stolessence” Ingredients StolichnayaVodka Simple syrup Lime juice
2oz 1oz ½ oz
Pineapple juice Vanilla essence Fresh rosemary
3 oz 2 splashes 3 sprigs
Method: Muddle the rosemary with the syrup in shaker, add vodka, lime juice and essence and shake vigorously. Double strain into a highball glass. Slice lime for garnish with a sprig of rosemary and finish with a splash of soda.
Cocktails In-fusion 101 – Our Signature Drink. Ingredients Sublime champagne Lychee liqueur Luchee fruit
3 oz ½ oz 1 oz
Method: Serve in frosted champagne fluke Pour lychee liqueur in glass and top with champagne. Garnish with 1 lychee fruit and orange peel.
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Delicious
Recipes
Fine Cuisine Recipes RECIPES BY OMAR ROBERTON
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK KING
CRAB CAKES WITH A CORN AND BACON RELISH INGREDIENTS Corn & Bacon Relish 2 1/2 1/2 1/4 1/2 1 1
cups sweet corn kernels lb bacon cup vinegar (white or red wine) red onion (finely chopped) brown sugar tbsp fresh cilantro (chopped) tbsp garlic chives (finely chopped)
Crab Cakes 1 2 1/2 1/2 1/4 2 2 1 1/2
lb crab meat lbs Russet potatoes cup celery (finely diced) cup red onion (finely diced) cup red wine vinegar tsp salt tsp black pepper cup Panko bread crumbs cup red sweet pepper (finely diced)
For Breading 1 1 1
Egg cup Panko bread crumbs cup flour
Frying 4
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cups vegetable oil salt
INSTRUCTIONS
Mini Crab Cakes with this amazing topping makes it the perfect dish to have for a cocktail party
MUSHROOM RAGOUT THE PERFECT VEGETARIAN CANAPÉ
Corn and Bacon Relish
INGREDIENTS:
1.
1 1 1/2 1/2 1 2 1 Salt Black
2. 3.
4.
5.
6.
Cut your bacon strips into small chunks and place into a cold medium sized frying pan and place on a stove on a medium low heat. As the bacon cooks and renders fats move it around with a spoon so that it cooks evenly until it starts to brown a little. Once it starts to brown, remove it from the heat and place in a bowl. Drain corn and reserve Using the same pan the bacon was cooked in and add the chopped onion to the pan, and sauté lightly, add the drained corn and continue to sauté on a medium heat. Add the bacon back to the pan with the onion and corn and toss it together. Add the vinegar and sugar and reduce by half. Take the relish and place it a food processor and on a low setting blitz it for 10-15 seconds then return it to the pan. And reduce it until it starts to thicken and become syrupy. Once this consistency has been reached, taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and remove it from the heat. Add chopped cilantro and garlic chives and mix together with the relish
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Crab Cakes
2.
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4.
5.
6.
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Prick the potatoes with a fork all over and place in baking sheet, and place in oven for 30 minutes or when your can pierce it with a knife easily. Remove from the oven and cut in half scooping out the insides and leaving the skin behind, mash the potato using a potato ricer, potato masher or fork until it is broken into small pieces. In a large bowl, add the crab meat, onions, peppers, celery, salt, pepper, and mix together well, add the riced potatoes to the mix and mix together until the crab mix is fully incorporated into the potato. It should feel like soft mashed potatoes at this stage. Add the Panko bread crumbs to the mix to help absorb the moisture and make them more firm. The should be firm enough to shape into a ball that can hold its shape well and is slightly firm to the touch. Once the desired consistency has been achieved, take a heaping tablespoon measure of the crab cake mix and roll it into a ball, or into the shape of a small cylinder about 1 1/2 inches high. And place them onto a sheet tray until you have shaped them all. Prepare your breading station and double bread the crab cakes in the Panko, this will give the crab cakes a nice crust. Heat the oil in your deep fryer or a pot of oil to 350°F and then fry the cakes until golden brown, remove from oil and drain on a paper towel and sprinkle with salt lightly and serve with the corn and bacon relish on top.
pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
4. 1.
cup white button mushrooms cup crimini mushrooms cup white onions cup canned diced tomatoes tbsp fresh thyme leaves tbsp olive oil oz sherry or Harvey’s Bristol Cream Sherry
5.
Slice the mushrooms thinly and reserve Slice the onions thinly and reserve Take a non-stick frying pan and add the olive oil and heat it over medium high heat until it starts to shimmer and become watery in its consistency, but do not let it smoke. When the oil is hot enough, add the onions then the mushrooms and sauté lightly, add the tomatoes and the thyme and continue to sauté, season with about two pinches of both salt and pepper and reduce whatever liquid by half. Add the sherry to the pan allow it to reduce by half, reduce the heat on the pan and allow the liquid to cook off until it is almost all gone then turn off the heat. Once it is finish you can serve it on small Chinese wonton spoons or on slices of toast.
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GREEN THAI CURRIED SHRIMP WITH JASMINE RICE AND SAUTÉED VEGETABLES AN EASY THAI CURRY DISH THAT TASTES LIKE YOU WERE HAVING IT IN BANGKOK
SERVES: 8 INGREDIENTS: 1 1 1 1 1x3
cup green Thai curry paste bunch Cilantro lime (juiced) stalk lemon grass inch knob of ginger (peeled and sliced) 1 can coconut milk 1 tsp salt 1 tsp sugar 1 x 2 lb bag 21-30 peeled and deveined shrimp 1 cup jasmine rice 1 tsp salt 2 baby Bok-Choi (quartered) 1 cup baby carrots (sliced)
Take the lemon grass and smash it with the back of your knife or with a mallet (this will allow you to infuse the lemon grass flavour while being able to remove it easily after) and add it to the pot and place it on the stove on a medium heat. INSTRUCTIONS: 1.
2.
3. 4. 5.
Take a medium 2 quart sauce pot and add the coconut milk, curry paste and ginger. Take the lemon grass and smash it with the back of your knife or with a mallet (this will allow you to infuse the lemon grass flavour while being able to remove it easily after) and add it to the pot and place it on the stove on a medium heat. Bring the mixture to a boil them reduce to a simmer until it reduces by a 1/3 and shut off and cover to allow it to steep for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes remove the lid and the lemon grass and pour the remaining mixture into a blender. Add the cilantro to the blender and blend on its highest setting for about 1-2 minutes. After this is done add the lime juice to the mixture and taste, adjusting the salt or sugar as desired if needed and reserve. Take a 1 quart pot and add the rice, place your index finger on top of the rice and add water until it comes level with the first knuckle joint on your index finger (This is known
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6.
7. 8.
9.
as the knuckle measure and is the most common way of measuring water to rice ratio when cooking). Add the salt and if you’d like add a small piece of lemon grass or cilantro stem to infuse additional flavour. Cover with a lid and place on a medium heat until done. When done shut off heat and allow it to steam for about 5 minutes then uncover and fluff rice with a fork. Take a non-stick pan and add about a 2 tsp of vegetable oil, heat until hot and add the shrimp to the pan, season with salt and pepper and sauté until about halfway cooked. Add the curry sauce and allow it to reduce by half. Take another non-stick pan and add about 2 tsp of veg oil heat the oil until very hot, add the Bok-Choi and the carrots and saute until the Bok-Choi is just tender (about 1-2 minutes) Spoon the rice onto a plate along with the veg and then spoon on the shrimp with the sauce and serve.
STEAK AUX RHUM POIVRE: STEAK INSTRUCTIONS: WITH A RUM PEPPERCORN SAUCE 1. Cut the potatoes in half and place in a pot and cover with cold A BAJAN SPIN ON A CLASSIC STEAK DISH
SERVES: 4 2. INGREDIENTS: 4 NY Strip-loin steaks 2 tsp Kosher salt 2 tsp Black pepper Pan roasted potatoes: 2 lbs Mini creamer potatoes 1 tbsp Kosher Salt 2 tbsp Unsalted butter ½ cup Watercress leaves 1 tsp Veg oil Rum peppercorn sauce: 2 tsp Cracked black peppercorns 1 tsp Kosher salt 1 cup Cream 1 ½ oz Rum 1 tsp Unsalted butter
3.
4.
5.
water, add 1 tbsp of salt and put on a medium high heat and bring to a boil until the potatoes can be easily pierced with a knife, when done take off the heat and drain. Take a small pan and add the butter and place it on a medium high heat until the butter starts to froth a little. Add the peppercorns and allow it to cook just a little, this will awaken the peppercorns and improve the flavour of the sauce. Add the rum and allow it to reduce by half then add the cream and reduce the heat to medium low and allowing he cream to reduce and thicken. Season your steaks with salt and pepper and brush with veg oil. On high heat place either a grill pan, cast iron pan or if you have one, a grill and cook the steaks flipping after 3-5 minutes for Rare, 5-7 for Medium and 7-10 minutes for Well Done. While the steaks are cooking get a non-stick pan and add 2 tbsp of butter and 1 tsp of veg oil (the added oil will help the butter not to burn too quickly on a higher heat) and place on a medium high heat. When the butter starts to froth a little add the potatoes and toss around in the pan until they become golden brown. Once potatoes are golden brown add the watercress and toss lightly until they wilt and remove from heat. Once steaks are done allow to rest for a few minutes and slice into strips, spoon the Potatoes onto the plate and stack the slices of steak on top and finish with the peppercorn sauce and serve.
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Featured Restaurant
I think Barbados is probably the most sophisticated island in the Caribbean as far as food goes.
T
here is a fresh buzz among dining connoisseurs about Barbados’ latest restaurant. Cin Cin by the Sea is a new concept by an old pro and word is fast spreading about what Larry Rogers has created this time. Larry, in partnership with builder Alan Evelyn of Rotherley Construction and the interior design genius of Stephanie Barnes, has created at Prospect, St James, a place which affirms Barbados’ claim of being the culinary leader in the Caribbean. As Larry himself attests: “I think Barbados is probably the most sophisticated island in the Caribbean as far as food goes. We have a really good product and I think we can compare with any big city.” Cin Cin by the Sea is his fifth restaurant, far different from his first, Olives at Holetown, St James.
Cin Cin A Fresh New Taste In Fine Dining STORY BY GERCINE CARTER
“We are moving forward. We try to evolve with the times. When we opened Olives that was one of a kind. Olives was like the first bistro. In those days you just had the up-market restaurants or the beach bars. You could come in with your jeans and a T-shirt and have a pizza and a beer. Then we opened Kitchen Corner, a little bar next door. We also had Le Terra upstairs Baku, and that was Italian.” Uncertainty about his future following a cancer diagnosis in 2004 moved Larry to purchase Pisces restaurant at St Lawrence Gap on the South Coast. “I did not know what was going to happen, so it was mainly for my family. I thought my wife could run it with a good chef,” he said. But five years have since passed and Larry again has hope. His passion for doing what he does best has been rekindled. He told himself, “Let’s do it again. Let’s do what we like doing.”
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAN CHRISTALDI
Forced to be away from the restaurant business for a while, he knew he had to come up “with something new and fresh and different”, as he admits, “every time I do something, I like to be different”. “This time we thought we’d go contemporary, away from the neo-colonial look, straight lines, minimalist, a fresh look.” In Cin Cin, Larry has managed to present the diner with a choice restaurant in an idyllic setting. Rated 4.5 out of a possible 5 in the internationally followed Trip Advisor, it sits high above the white sand beach at Prospect, St James, with wide expanses of glass affording an uninterrupted view of the vast vista of the azure Caribbean Sea, floodlit at night for that touch of drama. There are tones of grey with mere splashes of colour – the purple in the orchids growing in pots and the yellow in the sparse arrangements of flowers on low
This sophisticated casual restaurant, winner of two major design awards, seduces with two intimate dining rooms and a stylish bar aglow with polished woods, gleaming brass and breathtaking etched glass.
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tables supported by stainless steel legs in the lounge bar. Furniture is understated, not detracting from the rustic pine floors, and artists Alexz Turco and Tanya Slingsby lend a touch of drama with imposing pieces strategically displayed in this area. “I like the name Cin Cin – very casual, friendly, it is an Italian word meaning ‘Cheers’, ‘ Salud’. “ You raise your glasses and you go Cin Cin,” says Larry. This is exactly what many among the 100-plus diners found at Cin Cin almost every night are doing as they feast on a menu with a clear Larry Rogers stamp. “I like to take old classical dishes and breathe some life back into them. Most of my creativity comes from a foundation, a culture of one kind or another, and I build from it.” In this case Larry has drawn from the cuisine of the Mediterranean region. “ I love Italian food, but for the sake of having a bigger scope to work with we call it Mediterranean, mainly northern Mediterranean offering more variety — there is a little bit of France, a lot of Italy, there is Spain, Portugal.” Starters such as jumbo lump crab cakes with a spiced remoulade sauce and oxtail porcini risotto with seared bay scallop are followed by main dishes like spiced seared Atlantic salmon in a citrus banana butter, or steak frites and French onion rings with Béarnaise or green peppercorn sauce, from exciting menus that offers wide choice. Larry’s pork buns, inspired by the Peking duck pancake concept, made with pork belly from an organic farm in the United States and enfolded in a Chinese yeast dough, is a favourite choice on the bar bites menu. “You hold it like a double (Trinidadian) and you bite into it and you’ve gone to heaven.” Opened just last June, Cin Cin is already attracting local and visiting discerning patrons for lunch and dinner, as well as those who just prefer the ambiance of the lounge bar for a laid-back evening out with a glass of wine and a few bar bites. Businessmen are attracted by the comfort of an air-conditioned dining room with a soothing view of the Caribbean Sea and an exquisite backdrop of an incredibly designed glass wall stretching across the full length of the dining area. There is also al fresco dining on a wide and spacious deck where nature’s music is provided by waves lapping the shore below. Larry’s excitement at his latest project matches the ambiance of the place itself and he keeps abreast of dining trends, observing:
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Eclectic design and imaginative accents combine for elegance in the new, contemporary restaurant Cin Cin By The sea, Larry Rogers’ latest venture at Prospect, St. James where diners delight in Mediterraneanstyle cuisine with a Caribbean twist and dining is either alfresco or in air-conditioned comfort with an expansive vista of the Caribbean sea.
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“We are building a bigger middle class so we are getting a lot more diners and the choices are great.” Always at his side in every venture is his wife, New Zealand-born Michelle, who has again put her personal stamp on this restaurant with bathroom décor that puts a different spin on the words “I have to go”. The marble slab making a definitive statement at the bar was also her choice. She is truly Larry’s partner in the business of food and eating adventures, travelling with him, sampling restaurants as they share their love for dining. Larry was born in Barbados but grew up in New Zealand where he worked in a bakery after leaving school. He was hardly out of college before he landed a job as head chef in a restaurant. Though Larry regrets not having had the opportunity to be apprenticed to great chefs back then, his extensive research has enriched his insights and experience in the culinary field. It certainly informs his approach to hiring for his restaurants. The 60 employees at Cin Cin are motivated by Larry’s daily reinforcement. “We would even hire personality and attitude before we hire skill because we can always teach, we can always train, but the personality and the attitude of the worker is so important,” he maintains. With such a supportive and reliable staff, appealing menus and a restaurant with aesthetic appeal, the accomplished restaurateur asserts: “I never think about competition. I try to evolve with the times, I try to stay in touch with it.”
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Local Produce
What
Are You Waiting For? Get With It Already STORY BY OMAR ROBERTSON
I
t’s a movement that has taken the culinary world by force, city by city, state by state, country by country. It has many names, ‘Terroir’, ‘Local Food’, the ‘Local Food Movement’, but at the end of the day it represents a tectonic shift that has changed the way chefs cook and design their menus, the way people eat and spend, and has had a measurable impact on local economies. Think about something as simple as a red sweet pepper grown in Mexico or Guatemala, something we purchase every day, used in our salads, soups and food on a daily basis. Now think about the journey it must make, pesticidesprayed, transported on trucks to central packing areas, pumped with ethylene gas to force it to ripen, then placed on ships and shipped a few thousand miles. Then it lands on our shores where it moved off the ship onto trucks and into fridges before it is sold. Think about all of the fuel it takes for us to get one pepper, the cost, and most importantly the impact it has on the environment.
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We all know the phrase, we see it tossed around daily in the newspaper, hear it on the radio, the television, the Web, “carbon footprint”, but what does it mean? The definition is, “The carbon footprint is a measurement of all greenhouse gases we individually produce and has units of tonnes (or kg) of carbon dioxide equivalent.” With that in mind, what do you think the carbon footprint of producing and transporting that pepper is? Think of it as something to ponder and mull over in your mind. Now while you’re pondering that, let’s move on to the impact it can have on the economy, job creation, from workers on the farm to packers, drivers for delivery, marketing of these goods, administrative services. The potential is not farfetched but very real, and one worthy of debate. One can draw that line connecting the dots that show a clear path, from investing and developing our local agricultural sector to the creation of jobs to the production of produce at a cheaper price.
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This leads to a reduction in our cost of living and a reduction of our large food import bill. How large is large, you might ask? US$450,000,000, annually, that is the figure that looms over our heads daily as Bajans. There is no denying that that’s some serious money. It’s a very large number, an almost daunting one. It’s a figure that is very real and one every reader of this article should keep in mind and burn into their memory. That figure is sadly the food import bill for Barbados, that’s how much we spend on imported food annually, some 900 million Barbados dollars. As that reality and figure gives you pause, ask yourself, what would an investment of a mere ten percent of that daunting figure do for our agricultural sector? I’m going to guess it would be significant. Now many may make the argument that there are issues with using Local produce and yes, it is true, we have a ways to go in terms of further developing this sector, but rather than complain and point out the errors or problems that may exist, why not take that energy and convert into something more productive? Work to implement the necessary systems and protections that
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Buying locally produced food not only supports our farmers and contributes to the development of our agricultural sector, it helps to reduce our food import bill.
ensure a superior product, grading systems, quality control, and the enforcement of praedial larceny laws? I was in New York City recently and I was taken aback at one common trend I saw throughout the city, from upstate in Westchester County to Harlem to Union Square I saw small farmers’ markets all selling farm-fresh organic, locally produced vegetables. The support from communities was strong, and it was something they did daily. There it was, laid out for me before my eyes: farmers’ produce, vendors selling, people purchasing and consuming, and as a result, the local economy thrives. As not just a writer but also a chef, I encourage not only my chef counterparts in Barbados but restaurants, hotels, Government and you the average Bajan to do more to support local farmers and produce. I urge those in positions of power or influence to encourage Government subsidies for local farmers, to pass organic farming certification laws, grading systems and food safety laws. The time is now, and one can only hope we, as a nation, are ready to take up the call when it is sounded.
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FQ
A True
Recipes
Christmas Tradition
I
t’s a delicacy with origins dating back at least to the Middle Ages, and is produced in many countries of the world using recipes which, though similar, vary according to the region. The recipe, or variations thereof, used in the Caribbean were presumably adapted from European culinary traditions introduced to the region in the 18th century. In fact, the ingredients and method used in the production of this holiday treat is almost identical to that used for English Christmas pudding. If you haven’t guessed by now, we are talking about what Barbadians fondly refer to as Bajan Christmas Cake, great cake or black cake. Bajan Christmas Cake, like others produced by
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our neighbours in the Caribbean, is made with dried fruit soaked in rum then pureed for a smooth texture. Where the Bajan variety differs however, is our use of Barbados rum and Falernum. Bajan great cake also shares some similarity with the Colonial Wedding Cake served in the United States from Colonial times to the mid-19th century. They were described as thick, rich spicy cakes that included alcohol, dried fruit and nuts. Though in more recent times great cake is available year round, there was a time in the not too distant past when it was primarily seen at Christmas time or at weddings, christenings and other special gatherings. For weddings, the cake is iced with a layer of almond paste and royal icing.
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BAJAN CHRISTMAS CAKE INGREDIENTS 5 1 1 1 1/2 1/2 2 4 12 1 1/2 1 1 1/2 12 8 8
lbs. mix dried fruits. lb. chopped nuts or almonds. lb. mixed peel. pint rum. pint falernum. pint wine. tablespoons almond essence. tablespoons peanut butter. ozs. sugar (brown). (1/4) lb. pineapple jam. tablespoon grated orange rind. d. tablespoon mixed spice. teaspoon salt. ozs. flour. ozs. margarine. eggs. Browning.
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ond um, wine, alm d, rum, falern rin ge an or d ad fruit together, used if 1. Mince all m and spice. ja r, tte fruits can be bu ut required (the til essence, pean un p ee st to . r and permit for 3-4 weeks 2. Put in a ja n be steeped ca or ) ly r. te ga ia su ed and required imm , cream butter re. bake the cake to y the fruit mixtu d ad re ad n en th e, ok for a 3. Whe tim a at allowed to co en in one d at an be at , gs he eg w lo ility of 4. Add put over a reduce possib mixture may be the cake and of e tim 5. The fruit ng ki shorten ba few minutes to greased the oven. to baking tins in in re g in tu ix rn m bu e th ke ca ning last. Put ns 3/4 full. our and brow paper. Fill pa ed ax w 6. Add the fl of ze of the s es two thickn rding to the si co ith ac w s ed ur lin ho d 3 an 5°F of for 2slow oven 27 7. Bake in a the cakes en. As soon as ov e th . om fr ke ca m, wine, moving a mixture of ru ewer before re sk em a th ith er w ov st pour as 8. Te , throw a skewer and from the oven ith ed w s ov m ke re ca k e ar e pans. e. Pric out flooding th almond essenc ith d w an rb so um rn ab le ill fa ke w rb liquor, ixture as the ca days to abso m e e re th th of or h o uc m n in pans tw kes to remai 9. Allow ca ed. ey are to be ic especially if th
METHOD
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Desserts
Delectable Delights
BAVARIAN CREAM SHOTS
DIRECTIONS
Makes 8 shots
1.
INGREDIENTS
2.
• • • • • • • •
3. 4.
15g unflavoured gelatin 120 ml cold water 4 egg yolks 100g white sugar 1g salt 475ml milk 5ml vanilla extract 475ml heavy cream
In a small bowl, stir together the gelatin and cold water. Set aside to soften. In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar and salt until smooth. In a medium saucepan, bring the milk to a boil. Pour the hot milk in a steady stream in the yolk mixture, whisking constantly. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook and stir medium heat until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. Remove from heat and pour the custard through a strainer. Stir in the softened gelatin and vanilla and stir to melt the gelatin. Allow to cool. When the mixture has cooled almost to room temperature, whip the heavy cream to medium stiffness and fold it into the custard. Immediately transfer the Bavarian cream to parfait glasses. Molds, or on prepared cake layers, as it will firm up quickly as the gelatin sets. Refrigerate at least one hour before serving.
VARIATIONS PICTURE AND RECIPE COMPLIMENTS GCG EVENTS.
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4 oz. chocolate – white & dark 2oz. coffee grounds 6 oz. fresh or frozen strawberry puree
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