Editor’s Note
W
GROUP CEO (Ag) Noel Wood
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Carol Martindale
HEAD OF ADVERTISING - NATION GROUP Paulette Jones
EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Andrea King
PROFESSIONAL CONTRIBUTORS Chef Michael Harrison, Johantan Cho & Nikita Riley
CONTRIBUTORS Writers: Nick Nunes, Nakiah Thomas-Edwards Katrina Welch
PHOTOGRAPHY Akira Joseph Photography
DESIGN / LAYOUT Kevin Webster – Art Department
ADVERTISING SALES EXECUTIVES Asha Jones – Tel.: (246) 430-5519 email: ashajones@nationnews.com Debbie Brathwaite – Tel.: (246) 430-5518 email: debbiebrathwaite@nationnews.com
ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Wendey Delaney – Tel.: (246) 430-5517 email: wendeydelaney@nationnews.com
CIRCULATION MANAGER
ould you believe a group of scientists are studying the health benefits of breadfruit?! “About time!” is my retort to that. “Wish it were Caribbean scientists.” They found that this versatile food, which we know is a crucial ingredient in what seems to have become our second national dish, is…“glutenfree, low glycemic index, nutrientdense and complete protein option for modern foods.” See the study at https://www.sciencedaily.com/ releases/2020/09/200917122829.htm Of course we don’t need that kind of validation for our own superfood - the breadfruit; but it’s good to know the rest of the world is catching up. In this special issue of Fine Cuisine, celebrated and well decorated chef Michael Harrison enthuses about breadfruit and why he loves it so much. On our cover is his popular roast breadfruit and lobster combination, which illustrates that the starch is not just for pickling to eat with souse. Coming as it does at the end of the year, this Fine Cuisine edition is known as the Christmas one; and so we are encouraging you to shake up your traditional Christmas meal a little. Follow Chef Ron Maynard’s lead and do desserts as dinner; or try dessert specialist Clesita Moore’s recipes to make different Christmas sweets. We also examine the phenomenon that is sweeping our little island – food trucks, which sell all kinds of foods, from loaded fries, to chicken in waffle cones to smoked meats. For a while only ice creams trucks had that kind of mobility, but today, expect to see a food truck anywhere you see a fete. How many ways can you do a 1-2-3? Read the article first, and then do your own 1-2-3, send us your food photo and let us know your recipe. Send to Nation Instagram Nation246, or Facebook Nation Barbados (NEWS), or to me at andreaking@nationnews.com. Breakfast is the most important meal of the day, and we’ve got a recipe that could equally be for brunch, lunch, supper and dinner. And since it’s this time of year, the recipe could be Chrismassified! We’d love to hear what you did with it. Happy reading, happy experimenting and happy eating!
Adrian Bowen – Tel.: (246) 430-5500 email: adrianbowen@nationnews.com
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Fine Cuisine is produced by The Nation Publishing Co. Limited; a subsidiary of The Nation Corporation, which is a member of the One Caribbean Media (OCM) group of companies. Every effort has been made to ensure that the information contained within this magazine is accurate, however The Nation Publishing Co. Limited cannot be held responsible for any consequences that may arise from any errors or omissions. This publication cannot be copied in whole or in part without explicit permission from the Publisher.
4 FineCuisine | DECEMBER 2020
Contents 4
Breakfast- most important meal of the day
6
Memoirs of a celiac affected chef
8
The 1-2-3 reimagined
10 Food truck phenomenon 12
My love for breadfruit – Chef Michael Harrison
16
Dessert as Dinner
18
Dessert is a must
20
Modern Bajan cuisine
22 Appetizers over entrees
FineCuisine | DECEMBER 2020 5
t s a f k a e r B important e t h s t o f m eal o m day
B
reakfast, breakfast – some people can’t get started without it; some people don’t break their fast until lunch time. For some, hot tea or coffee will suffice; for others, fill up the plate. For those of us who love a morning meal, the perfect go-to staples are eggs and wheat flour, which can be made into an amazing variety of meals especially when mixed together. For many of us who get a quick breakfast because we have to leave for work, or get the children to school on time, that first meal of the day is usually toast with or without the egg, or some sort of cereal. But since breakfast is the first meal of the day, it should be exciting. The secret to a good, tasty, different breakfast is the preparation. Do some prep the night before (measuring, chopping, pre-cooking) to make it easier to prepare a quick and delicious first meal. Here are some delicious breakfast recipes to try out; maybe you’ll make them a breakfast staple in the new year.
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1. Potato pancakes • 1 cup (250g) cold mashed potato (you can cook the potatoes if you have time) • 2/3 cup (75g) of flour • 2 tsps baking powder • 2 eggs • 125ml milk • 1 tbsp finely cut chives • 1 tbsp oil (light olive oil or sunflower oil) • 1 generous teaspoon of butter 1. Mix the sieved flour and baking powder with the mashed potatoes. 2. Whisk the eggs and milk together and add to the potato mix with the chives. Whisk the batter until smooth. 3. Prepare a dish for the finished pancakes. 4. Heat a large non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. 5. Add ½ tsp of the oil and a bit of butter. When it’s hot, add 1 tbsp of batter for each pancake and cook 4 at a time. Cook for about 1 min until the underside is golden brown. Turn the pancakes and cook until golden. Put the finished pancakes in the dish to keep warm. 6. Repeat the frying process, adding a tiny bit of oil and butter to the pan as and when needed, until all the batter is used. 7. This is a basic pancake, to which you can serve with foods which have different varieties like ham, bacon, eggs, mushrooms, salmon, cheese and sausage, tomatoes, avocado, spinach.
2. Non-flour pancakes (especially for those with wheat allergies) Ingredients • 100 g oats • 100 g cottage cheese or cream cheese • 2 large eggs (even better if they’re free-range) • 1 teaspoon baking powder olive oil or unsalted butter, for frying • 1 avocado, optional • 2 large free-range eggs, optional • chilli sauce, optional 1. Put the oats, cottage cheese or cream cheese, 2 eggs and the baking powder in a blender and mix until smooth with a tiny pinch of sea salt. Add a bit of water to loosen if it’s too thick. 2. Heat a large non-stick frying pan over a mediumhigh heat with a small amount of oil or a small bit of
butter. 3. Add the batter to the pan, a large spoonful at a time (you may need to do this in batches), and fry until golden. Turn and fry the other side. 4. Serve topped with your favourite toppings.
3. Breakfast for a lazy day Pop-overs This is an American version of the British Yorkshire pudding. It was found on www.sugardishme.com. • 1 ½ tablespoons melted unsalted butter • 1 ½ cups flour • ¾ teaspoon salt • 3 extra-large eggs, at room temperature (4 large ones would do. If the eggs are cold, warm them by placing them in a bowl and cover with hot water (as hot as your tap will go). Let them sit for 10 minutes. • 1 ½ cups milk, at room temperature A bit of oil to grease the pans. (You can use butter for greasing if you’re an expert). Method 1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. 2. Generously grease popover pans or muffin pans with oil or softened butter. Grease the edges too. Place the pans in the oven for exactly 2 minutes to preheat. 3. Meanwhile, whisk together the flour, salt, eggs, milk, and melted butter until smooth. The batter will be thin. Fill the pans less than half full and bake for exactly 30 minutes. Don’t open the oven to look. 4. Bake the popovers on higher heat for 20 minutes and then reduce the heat for the last little bit of baking. This recipe makes 12 popovers. They’re much nicer warm, and you can eat them with anything, sweet or savoury.
FineCuisine | DECEMBER 2020 7
a f o s r i o m Me d e t c e f f celiac a
Chef by Nikita Riley
Food is life, and that is so very true for people who have allergic reactions to some of the most common or popular things we normally enjoy. Nikita Riley, a chef who is gluten-intolerant, shares her perspective from someone on the other side of the kitchen. So foodies, if you are allergic to gluten, read on to find out things to flag when you eat out.
I
t was my birthday and I went to dine at one of the island’s prestigious local restaurants to celebrate. I had looked forward to this moment for months since the restaurant introduced wonderful gluten-free options to their fine dining menu. I was having a nostalgic feeling of royalty in my new stylish black dress, red heels and my tiara glistening in the full moonlight. Perfectly seated in the restaurant overlooking the stunning ocean view, the fresh smell of the sea sprays influenced my menu choice to a sea food option. I chose shrimp Alfredo with Linguine gluten-free pasta and when it was presented at the table it gave off a mouthwatering aroma which rivalled one of my signature dishes.
8 FineCuisine | DECEMBER 2020
Caught in the moment of the first taste I felt bliss and immediately thought nothing should spoil this exquisite moment. Or so I thought. Fifteen minutes after consuming the meal I started to experience excruciating abdominal pains and feelings of nausea. My stomach became extremely bloated to the extent I could have passed for a fourmonth pregnant woman. It was then I realised the meal was not entirely gluten-free. What exactly went wrong? As the awareness of celiac disease grows, more restaurants across the island are offering gluten-free options on their menu. However the question is, are they truly offering gluten-free options? Anytime persons suffering from celiac disease or any other form of gluten-intolerance sit
to have a meal, they all wish to feel safe and secure that what they are eating will not only be delicious, but will not cause any allergic reactions. Thus, restaurants/business owners
Nikita’s Gluten-free Chicken
offering gluten-free options must focus on what may cause gluten contamination in the kitchen since the environment is equally important in determining how gluten-free safe your surroundings are. Gluten-free stations should be designated in kitchens to prevent cross contamination. Kitchens and equipment used to prepare gluten-free foods should be thoroughly cleaned. Also, all gluten products such as wheat flours, breads and crackers should be safely stored in a sealed place separate from gluten-free foods since minute particles of these products may at times become airborne. Such gluten foods should be prepared in a separate environment from the gluten-free kitchen. Chefs may consider changing clothing, washing the face, neck, forearms and hands before preparing gluten-free foods after leaving a gluten environment such as the pastry room. Gluten-free foods should not be baked, fried, seared or boiled in the same equipment as glutenous foods. We as chefs must take the time to read product labels and also do ample background product research, especially if we are catering to glutenintolerant persons. In some cases, extra product knowledge such as reviewing regulations for what is considered gluten-free and a gluten-free environment may vary from country to country. Depending on the environment where a gluten-free food is produced, companies may have a high chance of cross contamination from other manufactured products which contain gluten in the same production plant. Through my vast research into celiac disease and food preparation, I have found that when preparing foods, one must also take into account the effects of binders and enhancers to highly gluten-
sensitive persons. Widely used commercial gluten-free products are made with gums as thickeners and binders such as xanthan gum and guar gum, which can cause side effects that mimic symptoms of celiac. It is safe to say despite the fact that many of these gums are proven to be safe and healthy, many gluten-sensitive persons will prefer not to use them to avoid added discomfort to their daily routines. Therefore, as gluten-free chefs, we must take the time to do adequate product research and make sure we read labels. Although many in the culinary industry are aware of the term gluten-free, many are unaware of the term celiac disease and all the symptoms associated with it. Throughout my experience working in both hotels and restaurants, the term glutenfree was discussed casually and moderate action was taken to put policies in place for celiac diseased persons. As a result, many restaurants run the risk of offering what they can’t produce; however, I have found that there are some restaurants in Barbados which ‘cook what they preach’ and have met the necessary requirements to be deemed gluten-free. While exploring the world of gluten-free cooking, I have found that through my research it has the potential to transform an ordinary chef into a food scientist. Furthermore, understanding the many varieties of flour options available has excited the culinary world with new flavours and textures streaming away from the common use of wheat flour. This knowledge creates a larger understanding of the science of food and forces chefs to be aware of how many new ways delicious foods can be hatched with the correct use of many natural ingredients and our vast imaginations.
Recipe
Rich Gluten-free Black Cake
This black cake recipe is an authentic inheritance of the traditional influence by Barbadian ancestry. The gluten-free component is a simple approach of substituting the original flour mixture with one of your favourite gluten-free cake flour blends.
Makes one 10-inch Black Cake 6 oz brown sugar 8 oz lb Glow Spread 4 eggs 10 oz EatGF gluten-free cake flour ½ tsp mixed essence ½ tsp Almond essence ¼ tsp nutmeg, clove, ginger, cinnamon, spice 2 tbsp browning 2½ lbs minced mixed fruit ½ tbsp baking powder ¼ tsp bicarbonate soda ½ tbsp Chunky Peanut Butter (add 1 tablespoon if desired) 3 oz blackcurrant jam or raspberry jam 1 tbsp molasses Begin as for a basic cake recipe. Sieve all dry ingredients including spices together and set aside. Cream butter, sugar then adding eggs and essence on low speed if using a stand mixer. Add the remaining wet ingredients and fruit mix, then flour mixture. Traditionally the flour mix is judged by placing a wooden spoon into the cake batter which should stand up without needed support before putting the batter into the cake pan. Bake at 300 degrees for one hour. Lower heat to 250- 275 for a further 2 ½ - 3 hours. FineCuisine | DECEMBER 2020 9
3 1 2 Reimagined the
by Katrina Welch
10 FineCuisine | DECEMBER 2020
Potato, puh-ta-ta! Unless they are very well flavoured, English potatoes can be quite bland, especially when paired with macaroni. So, there are a number of things you can do to add spice to a potato’s life. Turn them into garlic potatoes by adding garlic spread and baking them for about 15 minutes in the oven. If you don’t have garlic spread you can create your own using table butter and grated garlic. Melt the butter in a frying pan, stir in the garlic and voila! Then, just pour it over the potatoes before baking. If you’re not keen on English potato you can also substitute it with sweet potato, or even pumpkin.
E
ven great chefs and those who are simply lovers of cooking will admit that there are times when cooking is a laborious process. Thus, no matter how talented you are in the kitchen, we all have moments when we simply prefer to make a meal that is as quick and easy as 1, 2, 3! Many decades ago, in the Barbadian society a solution to the conundrum was popularised, and the speedy meal of macaroni, English potato and corned beef was branded “The 1, 2, 3”. While many still enjoy this popular local combination, Fine Cuisine took the time to reimagine this delight and identify some alternatives dishes which are equally quick, easy, cost efficient and delicious! The Traditional 1, 2, 3 Each person adds his/her own flair and uses his/her own process to create the meal. However, the basic process involves the macaroni and potatoes being boiled together. Most people peel the potatoes and cut them into small pieces to ensure that they take just about the same time as the macaroni to cook. Then, the corned beef is prepared in various ways. While some toss it into the frying pan and make a delicious gravy, others simply add spices to the tinned meat and mix it in with the potatoes and pasta after they have been drained off. So, how about 1, Tuna, 3? Now, if you can’t stand the taste of corned beef, you don’t eat meat, or maybe you just can’t get the corned beef tin opened with that little key, you can recreate this dish with canned tuna. Just as the corned beef can be spiced up and mixed into the pasta and potato, the tuna can be added in the same manner. Alternatively, you can create a tuna gravy by putting the tuna in a frying pan, adding ketchup, barbecue sauce, onion, garlic and your choice of dry seasonings. Stir the fish and seasonings together before covering it and leaving it to simmer on a low heat. Other tinned fish substitutes include mackerel and salmon. Passing on the Pasta? Try white rice. If you’re tired of the same 1, 2, 3 combination or you’re all out of macaroni, you can create an equally delicious dish with white rice as a substitute. Since, you’re omitting peas, your cooking time will be reduced significantly. Simply use two cups of water for every one cup of rice, add your seasonings such as onion, salt, all-purpose seasoning, and your other preferred spices. Allowing the rice to cook as the water is boiling will produce a firmer rice grain; however, if you prefer your rice grains to be softer, boil the water before cooking the rice.
So, what are you waiting for? Get into the kitchen and try one of these alternatives. Who knows, you might even be able to build on these ideas to create an even greater, but easy, meal in just 1, 2, 3!
FineCuisine | DECEMBER 2020 11
Food truck phenomenon— phenomenal!
T
by Nick Nunes
he modern world is moving swiftly towards minimalism. Fast, effective, efficient, other adjectives that we’re in too much of a hurry to stamp out! Food trucks aren’t new, but you would be well off the mark if you didn’t realise that their proliferation has truly taken off in the 21st century, especially the last few years. The world over has been blessed with the explosion of the street food phenomenon. There are countless shows about street food, food trucks, quick set-up stalls, and all forms of mobile food purveyors for the modern person on the go. Barbados is no stranger to the fast-paced foodie world. Though tourism is currently the largest industry in the island, it wasn’t always the case. For that matter, mobile munchie mongers have been a part of the Barbadian landscape for more than 50 years. Nearly half a century ago, Sue Walcott of Waterfront Cafe started travelling the island and selling food out of the back of her vehicle. Her case is the opposite of the way food trucks really started to take off in the 21st century. She started with a mobile food operation and grew it into a highly popular restaurant. They have sadly since closed its doors due to the current climate. According to Barbados.org, “Barbados has had a culture of travelling kitchens and food vans for decades. Long before tourism became an industry in Barbados, cooks carried meals to workers on the job and to homes, cricket fields and places where people gathered. Home cooking predated sandwich boxes and Barbadians
12 FineCuisine | DECEMBER 2020
(Bajans) have always enjoyed the arrival of the food van with hot plates of delicious home-cooked ‘peas ‘n rice’ and macaroni pie.” The idea of mobile food stretches back centuries across the globe. The ability to provide food on the go and go to where that food is most needed, could be considered a form of convergent evolution, albeit social evolution rather than biological. Convergent evolution is when similar characteristics pop up separately and unrelated to one another. One of the first recorded instances of a “food truck” can be traced back
to the American West. A Texas cattle rancher in the 1860s by the name of Charles Goodnight retrofitted a sturdy old United States Army wagon with interior shelving and drawers, and stocked it with kitchenware, food, and medical supplies. This was to feed his men as they travelled great distances driving cattle from state to state. Goodnight thus invented the “chuck wagon”. He stocked his converted caravan with dried beans, coffee, cornmeal, greasy cloth-wrapped bacon, salt pork, beef, usually dried or salted or smoked, and other easy-topreserve foodstuffs. At the same time in the Northeast of America, a food vendor named Walter Scott cut windows in a small covered wagon and parked it in front of a newspaper office in Providence Rhode Island. Over 100 years later, the Great Recession saw the closing of restaurants and chefs downsizing from brick and mortar establishments in favour of mobile purveyance of their culinary creations. In 2014, Jon Favreau’s movie Chef premiered about a chef that loses his popular restaurant and opens up a food truck to even more soaring popularity. Today, it is estimated that food trucks serve 2.5 BILLION people EVERY DAY! In Barbados, before the end of the COVID lockdown, a new
phenomenon started to take shape just behind the gas station at the bottom of Rendezvous Hill. The Worthing Square Food Garden has taken full form to fantastically offer a court of creative culinary convergence with around 15 food trucks or mobile stalls emphatically enhancing the area. Whether you’re thinking of Cuzz’s cutters on Pebbles Beach or one of the nigh innumerable food vans that continue to proliferate across the island, mobile food mania is continuing to sweep Barbados. The best part about the food truck phenomenon is the variety that comes along with their convenience. Italian, Arabic, Venezuelan, Jamaican, Trinidadian, Guyanese, and especially Bajan are all eatery options offered through the ubiquity of food truck finds. There are even specifically
vegetarian and vegan options out there waiting to be indulged in. Food pop-ups are also becoming a nuanced aspect of the culinary culture of Barbados. This isn’t simply catering, these are special events where chefs of all calibre turn up to unusual places to showcase their diverse talents and engineer an experience unlike any other. Once in a while, Johann Callender’s Barbados Smokehouse pops up at the Dreadhop Brew House to delight beerfilled bellies with smoked brisket and other brilliant bites for a single night. Scott Ames’ Bento Box, though they now have a brick and mortar base restaurant, is also known to pop around the island once in a while to offer singular and spectacular events in sushi satiation. Keeping an eye on social media is now one of the best ways to pinpoint the pulse of gastronomic experience and adventure in the island. The brilliance of the mobile food world restlessly resides in the creativity that comes from the ingenuity of entrepreneurial creativity—the chefs that find a way. From sno-cone men on their icicle bicycles to bakeries with brakes and everything in between. The mobile food phenomenon has a storied history and is seeing the most rapid evolution of its kind since the inception of the idea. Meals on wheels certainly isn’t a novel idea, but the extremes to which the food truck phenomenon has exploded is certainly an aspect that should be an expected experience for any foodie fiend looking to find hidden gems on their unending adventures in locating awesome eats.
FineCuisine | DECEMBER 2020 13
r o f e v o L y M ichael Harrison
Chef M
“My love for breadfruit goes far beyond the taste. My fascination started as a boy roasting them while living in St John from around age nine years. I moved to Ferniehurst at the age of 11 to attend secondary school and continued roasting breadfruit and dove during the summer holidays. The only way I liked breadfruit back then was either roasted or green in Bajan soup and both of those are absolutely delicious. As I got older and became a chef, my love and appreciation for it grew, so I started to experiment and explore it, but because of a fascination with having it roasted I focus a lot on that.
14 FineCuisine | DECEMBER 2020
I must say the team at Yellow Meat took the breadfruit from the boys on the block to regular Bajans, and inspired me to become more creative with it. So, the breadfruit serves the purpose for which it was originally intended when it was introduced to the Caribbean as a cheap source of food for the enslaved, but in our modern day case it was cheap lunch for hungry boys during holidays from school. The funny thing is that people from different levels of society would have looked down on us for eating roast breadfruit as a meal, and now they spend from $20 and in one instance a few thousand dollars to have me set up a breadfruit bar which is just the roast breadfruit with multiple toppings including lobster, shrimp, pickled pigtails, braised blackbelly lamb, smoked herring and different butters including my smoked tomato tarragon butter, traditional Mello Kreem butter and different relishes like sour cucumbers, Asian slaw, pesto and shaved parmesan. I welcome the opportunity to
educate people, especially visitors to the island, about the breadfruit story. It is one of adventure and mutiny. The ship HMS Bounty was a botanical ship commissioned to collect and transport breadfruit plants to the West Indies from Tahiti in the South Pacific Ocean as a cheap source of food for the enslaved. As the story goes, when the ship left England and reached the Polynesians Islands, the crew spent most of the time collecting the breadfruit plants and developing relationships with ladies on the island. After a few months the ship set sail for the West Indies, but the crew
u i r t f d a e r B r
became upset with Captain Bligh’s treatment and punishment. It was also said that the breadfruit plants had more space on the boat and they were also looked after better than the men; so his acting lieutenant, Fletcher Christian, seized control of the ship and set Captain Bligh and 18 of his men who were loyal to him adrift. Christian threw the breadfruit plants overboard and headed back to the islands where he and his men spent the remainder of their lives hiding from the British Navy. Captain Bligh somehow miraculously made his way back to England and returned to Tahiti where he completed his journey
Chef Michael Harriso n’s talent was cultiv ated in the kitchens of world renowned establishments such as Gleneagles Hotel Scotland, Le Gavro in che Restaurant in Lo ndon, North Island in the Seychelles, Ca Resort rambola Restaurant, Sandy Lane Hotel in Barbados and the W hite Barn Inn in Maine , a Five Diamond Ho where he had the pr tel; ivilege of preparing dinner for former US President, George W . Bush. Michael also cooked for David an Victoria Beckham, Ac d tress Salma Hayek, Singer Mariah Caray and many others. Ch ef Harrison has traine d alongside several celebrity chefs and by one of his mento rs at the world fam Le Gavroche Restaura ous at nt by Chef Michel Ro ux Jr., a 2 Star Mich Restaurant in Lond elin on. Chef Harrison als o had stints in St. Lu Bermuda. cia and The recipient of seve ral prestigious award s and accolades, he has won the Governo r General Award fo r Excellence, Barbad Chef of the Year, se os veral gold, silver an d bronze medals in Barbados and throu ghout the Caribbean . In 2013 Chef Harri headed the Barbad son os Culinary Team as manager and won the sought-after award most of Caribbean Team of the Year and was the headliners for the one of Barbados Food & Ru m Festival. Harrison was the fir st Barbadian to tak e up the post of Ex Chef at Cobbler’s Co ecutive ve Hotel, a Relais & Chateaux Property, is celebrated for his and unique style of prep aring Contemporary Caribbean Cuisine. He designed the me nu and headed the the state dinner for team for Prince Henry of Wale s visit to Barbados 50th Anniversary of for the Independence. Harrison is now the Group Executive Ch ef for Ocean Hotels Barbados which inc ludes the luxurious south coast propert Sea Breeze Beach Ho ies, use, Ocean Two Re sort & Residences an South Beach Hotel. d He travels frequently to promote Barbad an unofficial Culinary os as Ambassador with his last trips for 2018/19 being to Brazil, Berlin , World Travel Marke t in London and withi the Caribbean. Chef n Harrison also starte d a culinary tour co called Island Marke mpany ts and Food Vibes. This immersive food experience allows fo ie r an authentic cultu ral and culinary jou markets and rum sh rney to ops throughout the Island. In his own words, ce lebrated Chef Mich ael Harrison shares he loves that ubiqu why itous and versatile food, the breadfrui t.
FineCuisine | DECEMBER 2020 15
with the breadfruits to the West Indies. To people who do not know the unpretentious breadfruit, the reaction is amazing. The locals love the creative toppings and that feeling of going back to their roots, and it’s so surprising how many locals never tried roast breadfruit before! Then there are those who just want to eat it and relax with friends and reminisce on the good old days. One of my most rewarding experiences is serving it in a West Coast villa at a party where the host of the party wanted to treat his guests to something unusual and something they had never seen or experienced before. So I did the Breadfruit Bar where I had Roasted Breadfruit and the toppings were lobster in chardonnay sauce, grilled shrimps with ginger and garlic, braised black belly lamb with guava and mint jus, tuna salad, pigtails and buljol with mason jars with butters and relishes. I decorated the table with a small banana tree, breadfruit plant, green and roast breadfruit and small bits of wood set to show how the fire is built. That was a big hit. Plus, I told the story behind the breadfruit, slavery, and eating roast breadfruit as boy. Most of them
took photos of the station and were quite impressed with the quality of the toppings and the unusual way everything came to life. I also took roast breadfruit to London and Germany where I did events to promote Barbados and our food culture. Another highlight was conducting a cooking demo in Brazil for students in a culinary programme. They saw how I roasted it on the stove because there was no area to do it in an open fire the way I did as a boy. The demo included making cou cou and rum punch. Brazilians also eat breadfruit as part of their culture; one of the ways they prepare it is with coconut milk which is absolutely delicious. They were amazed at the sweetness and how the flavour profile had changed so drastically to intensify the flavours. Brazil also has a similar slave culture like ours, so it was interesting to see our foods are almost identical like sugar cake, stewed guavas and Bajan cherry juice to name a few. I love the fresh cherry juice served unsweetened from a bicycle in the market and sugar was offered separately which was unique. Breadfruit is a very sustainable food source. More trees should be planted and it should be against the
Recipe Curried breadfruit, coconut, lemongrass and ginger cappuccino with shaved dark chocolate Servings – 15 Preparation time – 120 minutes Ingredients 1 small ripe breadfruit – peeled and dice 3 oz madras curry powder 2.5 oz white chocolate – rough chop 1 sprig coriander 1 medium onions - peel and rough chop 2 cloves garlic - peel and rough chop 1 sprig of thyme 1 sprig of marjoram 3 oz celery – dice 1 tin coconut milk 2 oz lemongrass – chop 2 oz ginger – peel and dice 2 oz butter
16 FineCuisine | DECEMBER 2020
law to cut one of the trees down without permission. This starchy vegetable has become super trendy to eat at this moment. It’s also a key part of one of my favourite dishes - pudding and souse. The dish has taken its place as our National Dish, in my opinion. We have created one day for this dish and that’s on Saturdays, when you can eat pudding souse from almost every rum shop on the island. Now, we speak about Black History Month, but this dish and the breadfruit have both stood the test of time as food from the days of slavery until now and stand tall where it belongs as an integral element of our food culture. Over the years I have prepared many different recipes using the breadfruit. I will list a few of my favourite dishes apart from the roasting. • Pickled breadfruit and sautéed flying fish with white wine sauce • Curried breadfruit, coconut, lemongrass and ginger cappuccino with shaved dark chocolate • Grilled breadfruit and watermelon salad • Breadfruit cou cou with parmesan, fresh herbs and grilled vegetables • Baked cheesy breadfruit
Cinnamon and nutmeg to taste Salt and pepper to taste 3oz dark chocolate- grate 1 bottle whipped cream Method In a hot sauce pot add the butter and sauté the curry powder and breadfruit cook for 5 minutes then add the onions, garlic, celery, lemongrass, ginger and herbs and cook for another 3 minutes. Add 4 litres of water or stock and the coconut milk season to taste with the cinnamon, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Cook for 40 minutes, blend and strain. To plate Place some of the soup in coffee cup or soup bowl, topped with whipped cream and add shaved dark chocolate
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Dessert as Dinner omas-Edwards by Nakiah Th
I was thinking of using something old and extraordinary that no one would ever think about doing, and something unique. 18 FineCuisine | DECEMBER 2020
And that was the inspiration for Chef Ron Maynard’s cou cou and salt fish with tomato compote, salt fish brittle and Bajan cherry gel, which was a stellar dish in the Desserts as Dinner event in last year’s Food and Rum festival. Maynard has evolved into one of Barbados’ top chefs, evidenced by his profile in that festival, and his being the current head chef at Sea Breeze Beach House. His training two years ago at a (former) three Michelin star restaurant in England, Le Gavroche and Roux at Parliament Square certainly helped improve his international status as a Barbadian chef. His exotically rendered cou cou and saltfish dish is just one example
of his culinary difference. Maynard also makes liqueurs, breads, pastries, desserts and birthday cakes. It’s no surprise that Maynard ended up in this profession; after all, he was born into a cooking family. “My mother and grandmother used to cook for weddings and from the early age of six I used to help them prepare food in some form or fashion,” he said. Ron’s entry into the hospitality industry came at age 16, just after leaving Ellerslie Secondary School,
A play on cou cou and salt fish with tomato compote, salt fish brittle and Bajan cherry gel Recipe makes 12 popsicles
Corn meal okra and white chocolate popsicle • 2 cups whipped topping • 3 cups cornmeal • 1 tsp salt • 1 ½ cup water • ¼ cup dehydrated okras • ½ cup melted white chocolate • 2 cups tempered white chocolate (for dipping)
Method Cook cornmeal with water at low l. heat for 10 minutes, set aside to coo s, okra ing, topp Whisk whipped e cornmeal, salt and white chocolat and together, place in popsicle mould freeze. Remove from mould and dip in te tempered chocolate and refrigera until hard.
Bajan cherry gel
• 1 cup Bajan cherry juice • 2 oz sugar • 1 tsp agar agar
h brittle Saltkedfis salt fish
• 4 oz coo • 4 oz white sugar • 1 oz water • 1 oz unsalted butter
Method Dehydrate salt fish in oven for 30 minutes at 250 degrees. Boil water and sugar until amber in colour, add butter and stir then add dehydrated salt fish and mix completely. ing Remove from stove pour until bak l coo let flat, l unti ad spre and sheet and cut into small pieces
Tomato compote
• 2 lg. ripe tomatoes chopped fine • 2 oz white sugar • 1 oz water • 2 pods star anise • ½ tsp ginger • ½ tsp cinnamon • ½ tsp nutmeg • 1 tbsp brown rum Method Add all ingredients in saucepan and cook at low temperature for 20 minutes
Method to Boil all ingredients, place it fridge oth. smo l unti d blen set, and cool
when he had the opportunity to work at Glitter Bay Hotel as a bar porter. “It was then I found myself liking the hotel industry, and I went on to train as a barman and waiter, which I enjoyed. While working in the bar and restaurant at Glitter Bay I always used to go to the kitchen and pastry shop to watch the chef at work; it was then I decided I wanted to be a chef. It was a crafted and technical job and I saw myself doing that daily,” he shared with Fine Cuisine. Ron understood the importance of formal training, and got his in basic
and advanced cake and pastry, and international cuisine, through the Pomarine, Barbados Community College. Then from crafting desserts at Sandy Bay Hotel he went to work at Sea Breeze Beach Hotel as the pastry chef in charge of the pastry shop in 2008. Having conquered desserts and training other staff using his own style, Ron pursued and became executive chef, having learnt how to do every aspect of kitchen operation. In 2015 he was promoted to executive sous chef at the Sea Breeze Hotel, where his duties include day-today operations of five restaurants, including rostering, menu planning, training of staff, budgets , and controlling food cost. His NIFCA 2011 gold medal,
second place in the Barbados Pastry Chef competition in 2012 and 2016, the 2014 and 2015 Manager of the Year, silver medal in the Taste of the Caribbean 2016 cheese cake competition and gold in the 2017 Taste of the Caribbean team are evidence of both his skill as a manager and his creativity and originality in crafting desserts. In last year’s Food and Rum festival, Ron participated in a special event at the Sea Breeze Beach House called Desserts for Dinner. Preparing a six course menu comprising only desserts was yet another of his amazing culinary creations and achievements. Fine Cuisine is proud to reproduce the recipe for the dessert that is a take on one of our most popular traditional foods. FineCuisine | DECEMBER 2020 19
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ven the simplest of meals are enhanced with some sort of sweet at the end of it. Range from the fanciful to the plain – from the mochi in Japan, to the tiramisu of Italy to the cupcakes and fudge of America, to the coconut bread and pone in Barbados, some meals are just not complete without dessert. Some desserts are also dressed up breakfast, like scones, doughnuts and pancakes. One thing most of them have in
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common, is chocolate, and right here in Barbados we have a dessert boss who excels at making chocolate desserts. Had life gone differently for Clesita Moore, she would have been a different kind of boss as she won the first Barbados World Skills Competition 2012 in hairdressing with Barbados Vocational Training Board. But sometimes life is very kind, and her dexterity and creativity with hair was transferred to pastries and cakes. In her profession, she has moved
up from a trainee to a pastry cook and then to demi chef de partie to pastry chef de partie. “I’m yet to make greater achievements!” declares Clesita, who switched from cosmetology because she realised very early her passion was for food. She revealed that her favourite dessert to make is Pâté a Choux pastry and her favourite dessert to eat is creme brûlée. “A positive attitude and hard work will help me to become the best pastry chef I can be,” the modest Clesita said.
Here’s Clesita’s special recipe for
Rum truffles
truffles.
• 17 oz heavy cream 35% • 3.5 oz unsalted butter • 4 oz Mount Gay rum • 31 oz dark chocolate 56%
Coconut and white chocolate truffles • 16 oz heavy cream 35% • 45 oz white chocolate 31% • 1/4 cup desiccated coconut
Directions: Cut chocolate into small pieces. leave for Boil cream, pour over chocolate and te has cola two minutes and stir until the cho completely melted. For dark chocolate: l it’s firm Stir in rum and rest in the fridge unti enough to roll into balls. a powder and After rolling cover truffles with coco e. serv to y keep refrigerated until it’s read For white chocolate: e until it’s firm Stir in coconut and rest in the fridg enough to roll into balls. in desiccated After rolling in balls, roll the balls l it’s ready to unti coconut and keep refrigerated serve. FineCuisine | DECEMBER 2020 21
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very Bajan knows good Bajan food. Macaroni pie, beef stew and fried plantain. These are just a few of the staples on a traditional menu that is quintessentially Bajan. Luckily, the modern Bajan has access to a plethora of international cuisines from Italian right down to Japanese. We not only know good Bajan food, we understand good cuisine. While these international cuisines are gaining momentum, evolving with compelling modern interpretations, is there room for a modern Bajan cuisine? Can Bajan food become the next trend on the world scene? Barbadian food is largely influenced by its history; its long occupation by the British, the large population stolen from Africa and the mono-crop system put in place. Everything is influenced by what was available and what people knew to do with it. Therefore, there are influences from around the world, but the cuisine itself is adapted to our Bajan tastes. At the moment, Bajan food is very traditional. It is based on old recipes handed down from generation to generation with little evolution. To create a modernist interpretation of Bajan cuisine, two things need crucial examination; ingredients and technique. Bajan food should come from Barbadian soil. Using local produce gives a cuisine soul that you can taste. Without that base the food will never truly be Bajan. Therefore, focusing on cultivating the best ingredients possible needs to become a priority. Subsequently, the techniques used to make Barbadian food need to be reviewed. Trying modern
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techniques are important; however, they need to be worthwhile. If the food is not enhanced because of a different technique then it is unnecessary. Methods such as sous vide and molecular gastronomy are not common on the Barbadian food scene, but have the potential to refine our cuisine. Experimenting and reinterpreting traditional dishes and ingredients will transform Bajan cuisine. Chefs taking common Caribbean ingredients and showcasing them in elevated dishes, truly exhibits the potential of Bajan cuisine. The rise of ingredients that are locally grown such as breadfruit and black belly sheep, creates a taste that is undeniably local. In recent times, there has been
an overwhelming push for more local produce and that will ultimately lead to better product as it becomes more of a focus. A good example of local ingredients being used by local chefs is Chef Damian Leach’s roasted breadfruit and lobster dish at Cocktail Kitchen. It is the ideal when thinking of Bajan chefs elevating local ingredients. Caribbean cuisine is on the brink of greatness and Bajan cuisine should be at the forefront of this movement. It is full of flavour and is deeply influenced by other cultures. That is the making of a great cuisine because it takes elements of many different flavours and turns it into something amazing. The melting pot that is the Caribbean makes it difficult to pinpoint exactly what Caribbean food is; however, there are amazing chefs doing the work to elevate it to a world-class cuisine. The
fascinating part of all of this is that because there are so many influences on the Caribbean, there are also may reference points. It can appeal to African, European, American, Asian palates seamlessly. If we want to see a modern Bajan cuisine, we as foodies have to demand it. Asking what is new and what is fresh encourages our food to evolve. Furthermore, celebrating chefs who are being innovative and spreading Barbadian food on an international stage creates the legitimacy necessary to be seen as a world-class cuisine. In order for other people to appreciate our flavours, we have to first appreciate the food we are producing. Two chefs every Bajan foodie should be paying attention to:
Chef Damian Leach The Barbadian-born but internationally trained, executive chef of Cocktail Kitchen has won several culinary awards. Chef Leach has been a staple on the Caribbean food scene for years taking Bajan classics and refining them into modern interpretations. He represents the new wave of Caribbean chef showing off the skill and heart of Barbados. Chef Jason Howard Chef Howard is at the forefront of chefs developing modern Caribbean cuisine. With experience working in Michelin-starred restaurants, Chef Jason Howard has the skills to showcase Caribbean haute cuisine and has been doing so as a contestant on the television series ‘Master Chef’. FineCuisine | DECEMBER 2020 23
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Appetisers Entrées by Nick Nunes
ou’re a foodie on an adventure, a culinary escapade that demands dabbling in as many flavours and fantastic food nuances as personally possible. Maybe you’re on a budget and you’re looking to get the best bang for your buck.
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Maybe you’re only spending a limited amount of time in whichever gastronomic geolocation you happen to currently be in. Whatever the reason, you could consider revamping the typical and tired eatery experience by going app crazy rather than sticking to the regimen of one appetiser (apps from henceforth), a main course, and a dessert. This isn’t an option that can go over well in every restaurant. For instance, if you’re in an especially haughty restaurant, they may be offering a coursed meal. Usually, when the meal is rigidly set into specific courses, the options for each served section is going to be limited. This idea of apps over entrées falls apart when there aren’t enough app choices to engender the curious palate adventure herein suggested. A fair point to be made going into this idea is that some restaurants, if they be snooty, may curl their proverbial lips and snarl at the idea of turning their dining experience into a Tapas affair. But, if you’re only going there once then who cares?! Let them be appalled while you enjoy your epic adventure in eating. It’s not out of the ordinary to take a chance in a restaurant that you’ve never dined at previously and unfortunately go home underwhelmed with the whole or just part of the meal. By choosing to indulge in multiple small plates rather than hedging your whole night’s bet on one main, you sweeten the odds of enjoying something palatably intriguing. Variety is the spice of life and with variety comes a larger line-up of spices. Think about all the times you
dine out with friends and family and how the beginning of the sit-down experience goes. Everyone peruses the menu, intrigued at all the dishes, and it always starts with the appetisers. The appetiser portion of the evening is one of the most communal and socially conscious aspects of the night. Rarely do groups go out together and all get the same appetiser because, for many people enjoying the company of their compatriots, appetisers are going to be shared. Maybe not completely split, but at least a taste is often offered around. Everyone looks through the list of appetisers and voices their interest in what they may order, and sometimes, compromises are made in changing orders so that variety can enhance the entire experience. This is typically why many restaurants offer appetiser samplers. Four people go out to eat. After the review of the menu and discussion of possibilities, each of the four get to try four dishes though each individual only ordered one. It’s the best possible outcome of a dining experience, unless you’re Joey Tribbiani from the tv show ‘Friends’, because everyone knows: “JOEY DOESN’T SHARE FOOD!” As funny as that ‘Friends’ running gag was, Joey was willing to take off the plates of others, or even eat
off the ground. Communal dining is just that, communal. Eating out isn’t solely about the extravagance of immoderate satiation. It’s about enjoying the company you’ve chosen to share your meal with. Tapping into the untapped appetiser array gives you more of that sweet, sweet sharing that works out to be mutually beneficial to all those involved. Not only does the ordering of extra apps or even going overboard with apps in place of having just one entrée broaden the camaraderie of the night and increase the flavour profile you’re exposed to, but it also can cut down on both caloric intake and budget expenditure. Nachos, ceviche, jalapeno poppers, dumplings—whatever the culinary contours of the restaurant you’re attending, appetisers are a great way to delve deep into the variety that the chef is showcasing while making for a much more interactive and adventurous affair. Indulging in appetisers alone may not be for everyone. Some certainly prefer having their own plate and sticking to their singular dish, but it’s a nice idea to try once in a while to see where it takes you and how it can electrify an otherwise typical evening out.
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ROBERTS MANUFACTURING
