Fine Cuisine March 2012 by Nation Publishing Co. Limited

MARCH 2012

DINING BY THE WATERSIDE

MUNCH ON A TASTY BRUNCH

3 QUICK AND EASY RECIPES

A TRULY FIRST CLASS EXPERIENCE

DAN’S DELECTABLE DELIGHTS

SHRIMP AND BASIL FRITTATA GREEN EGGS AND HAM BENEDICT ORANGE SCENTED FRENCH TOAST

FEEL GOOD

FOOD

PAN-ROASTED RED SNAPPER WITH TOMATO, CILANTRO AND PICKLED ONION SALSA WITH CRISPY ONIONS AND PEA SHOOTS.

3 FineCuisine

C R E D I T S Publisher: VIVIAN-ANNE GITTENS Editor: LYLE JONES Advertising Manager: PAULETTE JONES Editorial Team: OMAR ROBERTSON, TREVOR BENSON, LYLE JONES, APRILLE THOMAS, CHERYL HAREWOOD, DAWN MORGAN Consulting Chef: OMAR ROBERTSON Photography: MARK KING, INSIGHT DIGITAL Design/Layout: RANDY PHILLIPS – IMAGEWORX Advertising Executive: DEBBIE BRATHWAITE - TEL: (246) 430-5518 Email: debbiebrathwaite@nationnews.com Advertising Coordinator: WENDEY DELANEY – TEL: 430-5517 Printers: PRINTWEB CARIBBEAN LTD (246) 434-6719

Editor’s Note Easter is around the corner and the Fine Cuisine team is in tune with the cultural relation between the holiday and its culinary customs. However, rather than sticking to tradition, we opted for delectable alternatives of seafood dishes for you to try this year. We also hope to appeal to those food lovers who are looking to entertain for the holiday by compiling a list of scrumptious recipes, comprising a mouthwatering array of ﬂavours, to create an appetizing, aesthetically pleasing, Easter brunch table. For our Easter edition, we will also tantalize the taste buds of those pastry lovers, with a recipe for the seasonal hot cross buns. And to add a local touch to the idea of ﬁne treats, we sat down with Dan Brinckmann, executive pastry chef of Temptations Bakery, for the inside scoop on him and his blooming business. So hold on to your sweet tooth as we show you some of his fresh creations. And for those readers who love to ‘get down’ in the kitchen, we want to make sure that you’re armed with the tools for success, so we’re presenting you with

some of the basics. If, on the other hand, you prefer to feed your fancies in a cozy atmosphere overlooking the deep, aqua waters of the Caribbean Sea, then join us as we dive into the world of Waterside Restaurant. From their alluring décor to their all-encompassing and ever-growing menu, you can dine in fine style. Here at Fine Cuisine we also want to make sure that our readers, foodies, and those somewhere in between are making wise decisions about the foods they consume. We are therefore offering tips for choosing the finest fish, as well as education on local super foods and quick bites to boost your mood. It is with great pleasure that we present to you our collection of tasty treats and tips from our team of experts and food lovers alike. We hope that you will enjoy this issue.

Lyle Jones Editor

Fine Cuisine is produced by The Nation Publishing Co. Limited; a subsidiary of The Nation Corporation, which is a member of the One Caribbean Media Limited (OCM) group of companies. For General Info email: ﬁnecuisine@nationnews.com Every effort has been made to ensure that the information contained within this magazine is accurate, however, The Nation Publishing Co. Limited cannot be held responsible for any consequences that may arise from any errors or omissions. This publication cannot be copied in whole or in part without the explicit permission of the Publisher. ©2012 Nation Publishing Co. Limited 4 FineCuisine

5 FineCuisine

C O N T R I B U T O R S OMAR ROBERTSON Pan-roasted red snapper with tomato, cilantro and pickled onion salsa with crispy onions and pea shoots created by chef Omar Robertson. Photographed by Mark King

Contents Easy Cooking 08 An Ode to Brunch 10 Superfoods In Your Own Backyard 14

Omar is the Executive Chef and owner of In-fusion Catering Services. Focusing on his own brand of fusion cuisine, Omar blends his training in Classic French Cuisine and his West Indian background to great fun, whimsical plays on classic dishes, reimagined and rethought. A graduate of Le Cordon Bleu Paris, Ottawa Culinary Institute, Omar also holds a Professional Diploma in Cookery from the Stratford Chef School, where he furthered his culinary training and learned restaurant management and design

TREVOR BENSON Trevor is a passionate and driven young Canadian foodie who is thankful and proud to call Barbados home. Trevor is a creative autodidact when it comes to cooking and is thrilled to be working in the food and beverage industry. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I value food provenance, enjoy using and consuming local produce, and strongly support small business,â&#x20AC;? he says.

Taste Of Temptation 16 A Few Good Knives 20 Paradise Awaits At Waterside Restaurant 22 Savour Your Sushi 26 Fresh By Test 27 The Mood Behind The Food 28 6 FineCuisine

MARK KING Mark is passionate about all things photography. His photography takes him around the world, and allows him to participate in artist-inresidences and group exhibitions. This enables Mark to pursue new projects and collaborate with creative people around the globe. Travel has played a large part in his life. He has called The Bahamas, Barbados, Brussels, San Francisco, and Washington D.C. home.

7 FineCuisine

Fine Kitchen

Easy Cooking

Giara Bottle â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Fuchsia & Blue Available at Dwellings

Cuisinart Cordless Automatic Electric Kettle Available at Courts

Calphalon 10 piece Pot Set Available at Dwellings

8 FineCuisine

Judge 20 cm Saucepan

Krups Coffee Espresso Combi

Available at Cave Shepherd Broad Street

Available at Dwellings

Le Creuset Wok wirh Glass Lid Available at Dwellings

Procter Silex Can Opener/Knife Sharpener Available at Courts

Hamilton Beach 6 Speed Stand Mixer Available at Courts FineCuisine 9

Entertaining

ORANGE SCENTED FRENCH TOAST MAKES 4 SERVINGS

French Toast Mix 2 1 1

1 1 1

eggs cup of whipping cream (35%) cup of milk Zest of 2 oranges Grand Marnier cream cup of whipping cream (35%) oz Grand Marnier tablespoon icing sugar

French Toast 8

slices of bread (white or whole wheat) Vegetable oil Icing sugar

Equipment needed

An Ode

1 2 1 1 1

large non-stick pan medium bowls whisk spatula fine sifter Oven at 350ÜF

To Brunch

STORY BY OMAR ROBERTSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK KING

runch, oh sweet lovely brunch, you are without question the perfect amalgamation of the epicurean delight. The joys of the most important meal of the day, just a little later in the day, a little heartier, a little more substantial, just enough to roll over into lunch. Oh the places I can go with you. The choices you give me are enough to make me just a little giddy and truthfully, you are a guilty pleasure we all indulge in. So to you my guilty pleasure I say, let’s eat! Brunch: breakfast meets lunch. It’s normally on Sunday and normally the perfect way to get over a wild and crazy Saturday night. Maybe that’s just me and my friends, who knows. But with Easter around the corner it’s also the perfect get together for friends and family. Easter Sunday brunch is a big deal in some parts of the world and in Barbados it’s becoming huge. Try getting a table on Easter Sunday at the Hilton if you don’t believe me, it’s insane. We at Fuse Brunch Club are getting ready for Easter brunch ourselves, and we plan on having fun with it. I think brunch is the perfect time for you to be creative, get a little spontaneous with your food, play around with it, try something new and wow your friends and family. So if you’re going to be entertaining this Easter let me suggest a few tips that you can use to make it a fun and memorable day for all. Brunch isn’t brunch without a mimosa, but that’s just my

10 FineCuisine

opinion. A traditional mimosa is one part chilled orange juice, one part chilled champagne, served in a champagne flute. But why go traditional? Instead try substituting the OJ with passion fruit juice, or grapefruit, or even guava. Play around with it a little and figure out your own for yourself. Coffee and tea are also important; again find what works for you and your guests. Educate yourselves on what’s out there. But may I recommend supporting Fair Trade or the newer Direct Trade companies. This is a new standard that ensures the farmers are receiving a fair price in the case of the former and the best price possible in the latter. The food should always have eggs, toast and protein. These can be anything from an omelette, toad in a hole, French toast, steak and eggs. You’ve got a million and one options to play with. I’m going to recommend three fantastic options for you to try that are variations of some of my favourite brunch dishes along with the recipes so you can try them at home for you and yours. Orange Scented French Toast with Grand Marnier Whipped Cream. This is one delicious French toast and so easy to do that it’ll become something you do just for fun for yourself. The second is a Green Eggs and Ham Benedict, a little Doctor Seuss meets brunch classic that’s oh so good. The final is Shrimp Frittata, think a deep dish omelette but better!

METHOD: 1.

Add the milk and cream to the bowl. Crack the two eggs into the same bowl and whisk until the mixture is fully beaten together. Zest the two oranges. To do this you can use a rasp or the ﬁnest side of a cheese grater. You should only grate until you see the white inside— this is bitter and could ruin the ﬂavour you are going for.

Take the 1 cup of whipping cream and place it in a bowl with the 1oz shot of Grand Marnier and the icing sugar, and whip with the whisk until the cream is thickened and able to hold shape. Place into a container with a lid and place in the fridge until you are ready for it. (By whisking the cream you are working air into the fat of the cream, this causes the fat molecules to swell and the once-liquid cream to thicken, but whip it too much and they will explode, giving you butter.)

Take your bread, or if you buy your loaves of bread whole, slice to the desired thickness. Heat your pan on a medium high heat and add the vegetable oil to the pan, about a teaspoon per slice. (Never overcrowd your pan, so if you can only ﬁt two in the pan, do it in batches.) Dip the bread slices in the mixture and place in the hot pan. When it starts to get golden brown on the cooking side, ﬂip it over with your trusty spatula, and cook until golden brown on the other side. Then remove from the pan and place on an oven safe platter or baking pan and place in the oven. Continue to do this until you are done.

Once done cooking all eight pieces, place two slices on each plate and using the sifter, sprinkle some icing sugar on top. Take your Grand Marnier cream and add a spoonful onto each serving of toast or as you desire and serve with some maple syrup on the side.

GREEN EGGS & HAM BENEDICT MAKES 2 SERVINGS

Pesto 100 g basil 125 ml olive oil Salt Pepper Parmesan cheese

Pesto Emulsion

Equipment needed 1 1 1 1

1 50 50 200

medium sauce pot blender toaster or toaster oven slotted spoon

egg yolk ml white wine ml pesto ml vegetable oil

Eggs Benedict

Crack each egg individually and place each cracked egg in a small bowl. Drop the egg in the water for between 2½ - 3 minutes.

4 4 2

fresh eggs slices of picnic ham English muffins

METHOD: 1.

Bring a small pot of water to a boil, add the basil and blanch for about 20 seconds then remove from the heat, shock in an ice bath and drain well.

Slice the ham and warm it up. Toast the English mufﬁns, place one English mufﬁn split in two on a plate, and then add the ham on top.

Place the basil, oil, salt, pepper, and parmesan cheese in the blender and blend on medium speed until smooth but a little chunky.

Warm the white wine in a pot until it just starts to simmer, then remove from heat and place in the blender, add the egg yolk and turn on high. Through the hole in the cover, slowly drizzle the oil into the yolks until it starts to emulsify and thicken, once you add about half the oil you can pour it in at a steadier rate until you’ve added all. Add the pesto after (the amount is up to you based on taste and colour) and season to taste.

Take a medium pot and bring the water to just a simmer, barely bubbling. Crack each egg individually and place each cracked egg in a small bowl. Drop the egg in the water for between 2½ - 3 minutes. This cooking time depends on if the eggs are at room temperature or straight out of the fridge, respectively. When finished remove from the water with a slotted spoon and drain off the water. Place briefly on a paper towel and then place on top of the muffin and ham.

Spoon the pesto emulsion on top of the eggs, serve and enjoy!

FineCuisine 11

Entertaining

SHRIMP FRITTATA: SERVES 8:

Frittata: 6 1 1 ½ ½ 50 1 1½ 12

eggs cup cream medium red onion red sweet pepper yellow sweet pepper g cilantro (chopped) tomato tsp cayenne pepper shrimp 16/20 (peeled and de-veined) 1/2 cup cheddar cheese (grated) Kosher salt Black pepper 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 4 tablespoons butter

Equipment needed 12-inch cast iron pan 1 medium bowl 1 whisk 1 oven on a low broil (oven rack moved to the very top)

METHOD: 1.

Defrost the shrimp, remove the tail, roughly chop into about ½ inch pieces, and place in a bowl with a little bit of vegetable oil, a pinch of kosher salt and black pepper. (I like to use kosher salt rather than regular table salt when I cook because it has a more delicate salt ﬂavour and larger crystals, and does not contain any iodine like table salt.)

Cut the onion, peppers and tomatoes into a ½ inch dice, take a 12-inch cast iron skillet and place it on the stove on a medium high heat. Add the 2 tablespoons of butter and 1 ½ tablespoons of vegetable oil to the pan. When the butter starts to foam a little add the vegetables to the pan, adding the tomatoes last (about when the onions and peppers start to soften).

Crack the eggs into the medium bowl, add your cream and whisk until the eggs are beaten, light and frothy. Season with a little salt and cayenne pepper, and set aside for a minute.

Add the shrimp to the pan and sauté quickly. Add your cilantro and eggs to the pan and stir with a wooden spoon so that the ﬁlling is spread evenly throughout. Add the remaining butter to the pan with the eggs in it in small cubes; this will add some richness to the dish, making the eggs soft and creamy. Reduce the heat to medium/medium low and keep stirring with the spoons, scraping the bottom, this will allow uncooked egg to reach the hot surface and keep the eggs from burning on the bottom.

Once the eggs start to cook and solidify a little, while still liquid on top, add your cheese and transfer it from your stove to the oven on a low broil for 3-5 minutes. As they cook under the heat the eggs will rise and become ﬂuffy and the cheese will start to melt and brown just a little. Once the top of the frittata has started to turn golden brown, remove it from the oven and place on the stove away from any heat to cool and set just a little. The frittata should have come away from the pan a little on the sides.

6. Serve it from the cast iron pan at the table on a wooden board with some good bread. 12 FineCuisine

FineCuisine 13

FQ Nuttrition

Superfoods In Our Own Backyard STORY BY TREVOR BENON

– perhaps it is best to return to our own backyard for our rom blue green algae to baobab, goji berries to garbanzo superfood fix. beans, and quinoa to kiwifruit, a variety of foods from Coconut water is a great place to start. With its naturally across the globe have been making their way onto lists of STORY BYfor TREVORoccurring BENSON electrolytes that help with hypertension, this sweet “super” edibles, all of which can thank the humble blueberry beverage has made it into the superfood big leagues. Canned, leading the superfood revolution in the late 1990s. bottled, and Tetra-packed by overseas manufacturers for health These nutrient-packed, mineral-rich, and fibrely-fantastic food and grocery stores the world over, what is sold on the foods stand proudly beside Omega-3 powerhouses like salmon, side of the road and enjoyed by a significant proportion of the anthocyanin-loaded tomatoes, and probiotic yogurt. population here is just one of many super foods that Barbados To what extent, though, do these often unfamiliar but simply and the Caribbean can proudly produce and consume. rediscovered foods from afar trump those we find in our own Just because the packaging on a bottle of coconut water or backyard? Are superfoods something we need to discover, bring other local super food does not scream “I’m fancy, healthy, and back from our travels, or buy from the health food store? Do goji consume me for these reasons” followed by a list of scientific berries even come from Tibet and are they any different from and popular health-related buzz words, doesn’t mean that it isn’t wolfberries? great for you! While the term “superfood” has no legal standing it is often Furthermore, if you’re really into super foods then supporting used in association with foods that are generally considered to the super people who produce these foods is just as important, be both high in nutritional content and good for your health. especially when they are your neighbours. Consequently, as each New Year presents itself so too does a list The following list is just a taste of how many local and regional of new and exciting superfoods. super foods can be found in our own backyard: avocados (pear); Would you believe that kangaroo is on the list for 2012, and bananas; Bajan cherries; black beans; black-eyed peas; broad let’s not forget fermented black garlic from Korea, which started beans; breadfruit; broccoli; cabbage; carrots; cassava; cashew a buzz towards the end of last year. But how much of what fruit; cinnamon; cocoa; ginger; guava; leek; mango; mackerel; these foods are said to contain do we really need and how pak choy; paw paw; pigeon peas; pineapple; pomegranate; much is superfluous or at least available to us in local shapes, pumpkin; seamoss; soursop; sorrel; spinach (callaloo); sweet forms, and flavours? potatoes; tomatoes; and turmeric. There is nothing wrong with eating foods that are jam-packed If you’re skeptical about this list then just type any of these with copious amounts of vitamins, nutrients, and minerals but foods into an online search engine followed by the term with the list growing each and every yea – as new forests, “superfood” to see all the great health benefits each has to offer. valleys, and mountaintops claim provenance over native foods

14 FineCuisine

FineCuisine 15

Featured Chef

Taste Of Temptation

STORY BY APRILLE THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY BY INSIGHT DIGITAL

wo years ago I was desperately trying to source a specialized, customizable birthday cake. I wasn’t about to slave away in the kitchen at a box cake and I was tired of seeing the same chocolate cakes sitting on gold foil, adorned with chocolate shavings and fruits. I wanted something different. I stumbled across Temptations Bakery’s Facebook page and I was in awe of what I saw. There were so many to choose from and I ﬁnally opted for a cricket themed cake, complete with a customizable (and of course edible) bat. The creation was the handiwork of top pastry chef, Dan Brinckmann. From cupcake cakes to edible 3-D Gucci bags, any pastry delicacy you can envision, Dan Brinckmann has already created or will quickly attempt to produce. Head chef and owner at Temptations Bakery, Dan specializes in distinctive sugar craft. When he isn’t busy baking, Dan can be found playing with his children or doing as much ‘nothing’ as possible. A Denmark native, the executive pastry chef has had over 15 years of experience in the ﬁve-star hospitality industry. His story began as a 15 year old apprentice to become a pastry chef at the Advanced Culinary Institute in Copenhagen, Denmark. Upon the completion of his programme, Dan delved deep into the working world, landing numerous executive management positions in the hotel and food industries in countries all over the world. His career has taken him to almost every continent, an experience 16 FineCuisine

which has undoubtedly contributed to his wealth of knowledge. Dan’s creativity and extensive experience brought him to the shores of Barbados years ago as the executive pastry chef of the Hilton hotel, and he’s been here ever since. Dan was compelled to stay but not because of the crystal beaches or sandy shores. “I met my lovely wife here,” he laughed. “We got married and we had our lovely children. For me it was a choice between packing up and moving around or settling down. And I wanted to settle down.” Settling down for Dan also led him to starting his own business where he could apply his talents and bring palatable joy to Barbadians, and thus Temptations Bakery was born. Located off the Spring Garden Highway, Dan’s small, licensed, commercial kitchen is where the magic happens. There isn’t anything that a client orders that Dan won’t at least try. “Sometimes people call with things and I’m quick to say yes, but then I hang up the phone and I have to ﬁgure out how I’m going to get the thing done!” But the Internet has made things easier for him because then he can look to other creations for ideas. “I look at a lot of world champions; not to copy them but to get inspiration. Once you study what looks good and what does not look good, a lot of the artistic element to it is just a lot of practice.” However, Dan doesn’t consider himself to be a really good artist.

You have to always challenge yourself to make your work interesting. I’m not the kind of person that sits back and waits for people to come and give me work to do. I go out and ﬁnd new things.”

17 FineCuisine

FineCuisine 17

Dan adds that he doesn’t feel like he really has stiff competition. “I don’t really have much quality competition. Cheap price competition maybe, but not quality. With economic times and everything some people may ask ‘why pay $300 for a cake when I can get a cheaper one for maybe $75 or $100?” he shrugs. And one might think that in response a regular businessman might lower his quality and prices in hopes of boosting business, but Dan has refused to sacrifice his standard of excellence. He still produces all of his work from scratch. It might be a wonder how in such difficult financial times a business like Dan’s, selling luxury deserts, stays afloat. Dan attributes his success not only to his exemplary work but also to the rising popularity of television programmes such as Cake Boss. “People see the cakes on TV and they like them and they want them too, so that’s why they come to me. And I’m happy.” Like any other job however, Dan faces his challenges. “It does get boring I’m afraid. But you have to always challenge yourself to make your work interesting. I’m not the kind of person that sits back and waits for people to come and give me work to do. I go out and find new things.” And sometimes Dan has too much time on his hands and he even questions his choice of staying in Barbados. “Sometimes business is dead slow and I question, ‘why didn’t I take that other job in that other country or whatever,’ but I keep myself busy.” And there are other times where Dan never leaves his kitchen, some of which you might not have even considered. “The biggest months are of course Christmas, Easter and then during the

18 FineCuisine

summer a lot of people hold events like weddings and stuff like that. But the biggest months for birthday cakes are like September and October. There are so many people born in September and October and we all know why,” he laughs. Recently Dan has been seeing trends in cupcake cakes rather than the traditional wedding cakes but he says that he prefers to do the more elaborate cakes. Clients are also opting for cupcake cakes rather than birthday cakes so that they don’t have to cut numerous slices for friends and family. Barbadians are deﬁnitely keeping Dan on his toes, ordering cakes with various themes and designs, but he recalls that the most outrageous cake he has ever made was the sewing machine cake. Overall, Dan says that he’s happy with his decision to stay in Barbados. “In Barbados there’s so much you can do, I don’t have to limit myself,” he smiles. And we are deﬁnitely glad to have you, Dan.

Spicy Sweet Easter Treat

hey represent an Easter tradition that dates back as far as medieval times and are believed to have originated at Saint Alban’s Abbey in 1361 where the monks distributed them to the poor. But the English custo m of eating spiced buns on Good Friday was perhaps institutionalized in Tudor times, when a London bylaw was introduced forbidding the sale of such buns except

HOT CROSS BUNS

You can use your electric mixer for this recipe but the directions are for making by hand. 1 tbs. active dry yeast 1/4 cup warm water 1 cup lukewarm milk 1/3 cup sugar 1/3 cup butter, melted 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. ground cinnamon 1/4 tsp ground cloves 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg 1 egg 1 egg yolk 4 to 4/12 cups all purpose flour 1 cup raisins 1/2 cup mixed peel, (optional) 1 egg white slightly beaten 1 tbs. water

on Good Friday, at Christmas, and at burials. In many historically Christian countries, buns are traditionally eaten hot or toasted on Good Friday with the cross standing as a symbol of the Cruciﬁxion. A popular seasonal treat in Barbados, the appearance of these sweet, spicy buns on the shelves of various supermarkets and bakeries across the island say it’s Easter time in again.

METHOD 1.

In a large bowl, dissolve yeast in water, stir in milk, sugar, butter, salt, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, egg, egg yolk and 2 cups ﬂour. Beat until smooth. Stir in raisins and mixed peel; add enough ﬂour to make the dough easy to handle.

Turn dough onto a lightly ﬂoured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 5 mins. Place in a greased bowl turn greased side up. Cover and let rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 1/2 hours.

Punch down dough, divide into 4 equal parts. Cut each part into 6 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a ball, place about 2 inches apart on a baking sheet.

With a scissors, snip a cross on top of each ball. Cover and let rise until doubled in size, about 40 mins.

Preheat oven to 375˚F. Mix egg white with 1 tablespoon water, brush top of buns with egg white mixture. Bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes.

Frost crosses on buns with powdered sugar frosting.

Makes 24 rolls.

POWDERED SUGAR FROSTING

FROSTING

1 cup icing sugar 1 tbs. water or milk 1/2 tsp. vanilla or almond extract

Mix sugar with water and vanilla until smooth. Add a little more water if needed 1/2 tsp. at a time. Place in a piping bag and pipe crosses onto buns in line with the crosses cut previously with the scissors. Let dry before serving.

FineCuisine 19

Fine Kitchen

A Few Good Knives STORY BY OMAR ROBERTSON

hen it comes to cooking there are many essentials such as a good heavy-bottomed pot and a non-stick pan. For me a good cast iron pan in a kitchen is essential but none is more necessary than the knife; it is the pride and joy of a chef. We invest heavily in our knives, treat them with care, and we love to show them off to each other. I can’t tell you how many times I go by a family member, friend or even a client and take a look at their knife drawer or knife block. They love to cook but they never have the right tools for the job. Hopefully after reading this article you’ll feel a little bit better about shopping and having the right tools for the job. I’m often asked, “What are the essential knives to have in my kitchen?” and my answer is usually the same. It may surprise you but you only really need three knives. Some of you are reading this and saying ‘three, only three?’ Yes, all any good cook needs is three good knives: a paring knife, a chef’s knife, and a bread knife. As a chef I have a lot more than just three knives, but those are specialised. As you get better and more technically proﬁcient

20 FineCuisine

in your knife and culinary skills, feel free to branch out and get new ones. I’ll even recommend a few for you here. So ‘Why only three knives?’ you may ask. The answer is simple. These three knives can do almost everything you need from peeling fruits and vegetables to cutting meat and fish, bread, pastries and cakes; they can literally do it all. When looking for a knife a number of things need to be considered. Firstly, a knife is personal; it’s an extension of you. It’s about preference: do you like a knife with weight or a light blade that feels like nothing? Do you want a blade that you have to maintain regularly or one that has a longer lasting edge? Personally, I love Japanese steel. I used to be big on German knives and steel because they’re well made, well balanced, great weight, and the engineering is impeccable. But when you cook for years you start to look for more in a knife. You appreciate the design that goes into it from the handle shape and style to the composition of the blade. Everything starts to make a difference and after years of ‘chefing’ it up I went from a German knife to Japanese steel, but only after about five years.

THE PARING KNIFE: The standard multi-purpose single edged plain blade used for everything from peeling vegetables to de-veining shrimp, generally the range in length from 3-6 inches. WHY?: Because it does almost everything you’ll ever need with a small knife, and more. WHAT TO LOOK FOR: You’re looking for a blade that’s well made and has a sturdy, comfortable handle with a good grip. Balance of the knife is also important. A good way to test this is to take the knife and lay it on its side on an extended index ﬁnger, right where the handle and the blade meet – otherwise known as the bolster. The knife should balance perfectly and feel comfortable in your hand when you’re holding it. (Remember this is about personal preference, so sample around a little until you ﬁnd the one for you.)

AVERAGE PRICE RANGE: $20 - $150 BDS

THE CHEF’S KNIFE: The standard of the kitchen, a 6-12 inch curved blade, based off the German chef’s knife but most commonly known as the French chef’s knife. WHY?: Its curved blade allows for a rocking motion making the knife perfect for chopping or slicing with precision. Its weight also makes it the perfect multipurpose heavy knife and a good substitute for a cleaver as it is able to cut through bone. WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Again this is a personal choice. Start with the steel, German or Japanese. They differ in weight and construction: German steel tends to be heavier, has more weight and is a slightly ‘softer’ steel. Japanese steel is lighter and harder so try out a couple to see which you like more. Secondly you want to look at balance, grip and structure of the handle. Some new knives are coming with off-set handles for ergonomic reasons as they help to reduce stress on the hand due to prolonged use. I myself have such a knife and I love it.

AVERAGE PRICE RANGE: $75 - $500 BDS

THE BREAD KNIFE: An 8- 12 inch serrated blade ﬁrst designed by F.W. Dick and shown in 1893 at the World Expo, this knife was designed to cut through bread without crushing it. WHY?: Its design varies from a series of serrated edges separated by smooth blade sections to a scalloped blade but the design is simple. The knife is meant to cut cleanly in both directions in both hard and soft bread. WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Start with weight and length when you’re looking at different options. Once you’ve decided that, look at the handle. Bread knives today come with offset handles to ensure that the user’s knuckles don’t rub on the board once they’ve sliced to the bottom of the loaf.

AVERAGE PRICE: $50 - $150 BDS If you’re investing in knives also invest in a good sharpening or honing steel, this will help to keep your blade sharp. If you’re serious about your knives also invest in a whetstone, this is the best way to restore your knife’s edge after prolonged use. If you’re a serious cook then also consider a filet knife. This is a long, very sharp, plain-edged blade that is flexible and perfect for fileting fish. For the sushi aficionado, a sashimi knife is essential. This is a 12-inch, plain-edged blade whose length is perfect for slicing the fish thinly in a single stroke. Another great piece of equipment to have is a zester or micro-plane. These come is various sizes but they are perfect for getting the zest off citrus, finely grated cheese and so on. I hope these help and I hope you make the investment in some great knives. Trust me on this, a chef is only as good as his equipment, so go get good. 21 FineCuisine

FineCuisine 21

Featured Restaurant

Paradise Awaits At Waterside Restaurant

STORY BY CHERYL HAREWOOD

PHOTOS COMPLIMENTS WATERSIDE RESTAURANT

s the waves roll in from the Caribbean Sea, you sit mesmerized by the bewitching watery scene which confronts you. The light of the moon and stars emblazoning the waters and ﬂowing across neatly set tables, tells you you’re lost somewhere in paradise. As you take in this sheer beauty while enjoying a three-course dinner at Waterside Restaurant, St. Lawrence Gap, Christ Church, you are moved to ask yourself, ‘Can this get

any better?’ Undoubtedly, a bit of magic awaits you when you dine at this romantic, world-class, upscale, ﬁne dining facility. Parallel to the azure waters of the Caribbean Sea and uniformed in beige with hints of blue, Waterside Restaurant (formerly home to Restaurant at Southsea), presents a picture of class with its ﬁne architectural beauty, wellmanicured grounds and a walkway leading to the breath-taking seaside.

The light of the moon and stars emblazoning the waters and ﬂowing across neatly set tables, tells you you’re lost somewhere in paradise. Elegant and locally-designed iron-cast furniture, perfectly matching curtains with matching lounge furniture, and tableware accentuated with tones of blue further enhance Waterside Restaurant’s classy aesthetic. Added to this is the intimate, relaxed, cozy atmosphere which the restaurant offers in the most secluded, private setting. It’s where a friendly team waits to make all your culinary dreams become a reality. Set next door to The Gap’s Convenience Store, Waterside Restaurant, which opened its doors a year ago, was a former residence of the Canadian High Commission. The building’s interior and exterior architectural beauty have captivated diners for years and those who visit waste no time in returning for more of what this restaurant has to offer. Options await diners, as patrons can choose the air-conditioned comfort of Waterside’s private dining room, which seats 28; the

22 FineCuisine

terrace setting under the sky-blue contoured awning looking out to the ocean, or to just relax in the lounge. Garden cocktails or formal functions are no problem for the capable staff of 27. However, early reservations are a must. À la carte dining is available for over 120 people, and with its full lawn facilities, Waterside can cater for more. In fact, it is the ideal restaurant for hosting cocktail functions, weddings, or special private and corporate social events. While Waterside is currently only open for dinner, special lunch-time functions can be hosted at any time. In addition, lunch and brunch items will form part of the offerings from October this year. Waterside’s fusion of international cuisine allows diners to choose their fare of seafood, Thai, Italian and Caribbean dishes. These are served up under the watchful eye of restaurant manager Eric Walters and award winning executive chef, Michael Hinds.

The idyllic seaside setting, coupled with menu choices that titillate the taste buds and capture the imagination, combine to deliver a dining experience that is ďŹ lling in every sense of the word.

23 FineCuisine

FineCuisine 23

From the starter, through the main course to dessert, dinner at Waterside Restaurant is an experience once savoured, that’s unforgettable.

Despite the wide menu options, both Walters and Hinds seek to offer a West Indian flare infused with flavour, resulting in exotic dishes which appeal to every taste. For starters, diners can savour the tasty breadfruit soup with smoked blue marlin and white truffle essence; the spicy flavoured chicken and red curry cappuccino with lychee and coriander; an organic mesclun leafy salad with asparagus and sun-blush tomatoes; crispy duck and orange salad with micro greens sesame-soy dressing, or the seared yellow fin tuna. Main courses are everyone’s delight. You can to sink your teeth into a dish of specially seasoned curried chicken or blackened Atlantic salmon. Seared and crusted red snapper served with basil-infused mash is another option; or maybe you’ll prefer the char-grilled dorado (Mahi Mahi) with soused breadfruit mash The tasty coconut and lemon grass seafood (Asian infused with reef fish, sea cat, mussels and prawns) is a dish you’ll want to savour again and again. Each of these dishes is served with rice, but diners can mix and match menus as desired. Soft, succulent steaks and other fine cuts also grace the menu,

24 FineCuisine

like the boneless beef short rib which is slow braised for ﬁve hours and served with garlic mash and maple caramelized market vegetables. Oh la la! Then there are veal cutlets seared with sage and parma ham and served with pasta. Desserts are everybody’s treat at Waterside Restaurant; from the tropical and exotic fruits with spiced Campari and grapefruit, to the coconut cream brandy caramel and white chocolate mousse wrapped in dark chocolate glazed berries. A lounge menu also awaits those who just want to sit around and chat with friends or enjoy all that the bar has to offer, as well as a seasoned list of wines. “We are very ﬂexible at Waterfront,” says Walters, “our aim is to please.” The doors of Waterside Restaurant are thrown open from 6 p.m., seven nights a week and dinner is served between 6:30 p.m. and 9:30 p.m. As of April 15, dinner will continue to be served every night, with the exception of Monday. Ample parking space is available. Eat well and savour life at Waterside Restaurant. Bon Appetit!

DINING OUT

Wytukai Accra Beach Hotel, Rockley Christ Church For reservations call (246) 435-8920 Ext 7400

Spago Restaurant & Bar

Authentic, affordable, great quality Italian food in 3 locations! Fresh, rustic dishes using only the best ingredients, our menu offers great thin crust stone oven pizzas, pasta, seafood, steak & delicious homemade desserts

Spago Restaurant & Bar 2nd Street, – 432 7394 Wytukai is the only Polynesian restaurant on the island serving authentic foods from the islands of the Paciﬁc. You can begin your experience with a tropical drink like our Wytukai Special and move onto our specialty dishes such as the Pu Pu Platter, Aloha Shrimp, Opakapaka, Lokahi Lobster and much more! Wytukai is a family style dining restaurant and is open for dinner only.

Open Tuesday - Saturday : 6:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.

A lively atmosphere located in 2nd Street, the heart of Holetown, food until midnight on weekends.

Spago Restaurant at Settlers’ Beach – 422 3245 Relaxed surroundings, overlooking white sands and enticing Caribbean Sea. Food is served all day starting with breakfast at 8 a.m.

Spago Pizzeria – 271 0348 Located in The Lanterns Mall, ideal if you are in a rush; on your lunch break or out shopping. You’ll ﬁnd the same Italian favourites, but it’s “Spago to Go!” from 10 a.m.–10 p.m.

www.spagobarbados.com

FineCuisine 25

FQ Fish

Savour Your Sushi STORY BY OMAR ROBERTSON

irst let me say this much before you continue reading: I am a hypocrite as far as fish is concerned. As a chef, I can cook fish, but I do not like eating it. From the time I was a child my love of fish could be classified as palpable at best. But yet I love, love, love sushi! While I respect the creativity that you see in some sushi rolls, I believe that some things in sushi are sacred. There is etiquette to eating sushi and there are specific ingredients that accompany it, and each of them has a purpose. There are basics when it comes to sushi, so I figured I’d share a few of them with you. Sushi as we know it today is all about the fish, but the most important thing about great sushi is fresh fish. In Japan, the Tsukiji Market is the largest wholesale fish and seafood market in the world and one of the largest wholesale food markets in the world as well. Every morning from as early as 4 a.m. licensed buyers assemble at various stalls to survey the fresh catch, especially tuna and fish shipped in from around the world, and decide what they will bid based on quality and appearance. These auctions start at about 5:30 a.m. and by 7 a.m. they are over, primarily the tuna. These auctions are immense and the amount of money spent on a single fish is mind-blowing! How mind-blowing is mind-blowing? The new record set this year was a massive $736,000USD for a single 593 pound blue fin tuna, which is almost $1,238USD per pound. This might seem excessive, but it just goes to show you that these guys don’t play when it comes to their fish. Another component of the eating process that many people

26 FineCuisine

might not understand is the ginger, or gari. Ginger aids with digestion and is meant to help the diner with the digestion of the raw fish. The ginger is marinated in a solution of vinegar and sugar and provides some acidity that helps to cleanse the palate. It is meant to be eaten after a piece of sushi, not with it. Wasabi, on the other hand, has a different role. It contains antiseptic properties that help to inhibit bacterial growth and oral bacterial growth. There is a legend that is told about the power of wasabi root. According to legend, during the Edo period, a rogue group that was against the ruling government poisoned the river with the hope of creating chaos and destabilising the government in Edo (old Tokyo). They hoped to take over the government, but a peasant was washing her wasabi root down river of where the poison was dumped and the wasabi counteracted the poison, saving the city and the shogun (commander). Soy sauce is sacred and great sushi restaurants take pride in the soy sauce they serve you. It adds salt which enhances the flavour of the fish, but most importantly it contains a natural source of what is now widely regarded as the fifth flavour profile, umami. (Look it up when you have a chance, it’s a fantastic read.) It’s considered poor etiquette to mix wasabi with your soy sauce, it’s seen as disrespecting the soy and ruining the umami effect. Rather, the wasabi should be either placed between the rice and the fish in the case of maki (rolls) and rigiri (rice balls with a slice of fish on top); if you’d like some more you can add it yourself to your sushi.

Fresh By Test STORY BY DAWN MORGAN

ISH IS NUTRITIOUS, lean protein and can be prepared in so many delectable ways that it should form part of our regular menu. In addition, there is often an increase of ﬁsh eating during Lent, a long-held cultural tradition. If you prefer to buy your ﬁsh fresh, whether from the vendors in the market, or other connections in the industry, there are a few things you should look out for when making your selection:

FRESH CHOICES - Eyes should be bright and clear. - Skin should be shiny, clean and of natural colour for the type. - Sniff - smell should not be pungent and offensive. - Press a thumb into Àsh. It should bounce back and lose the Àngerprint quickly. - Gills of whole Àsh should be rich red. - Gutted Àsh should have clean cavities, without blood present. Some of you may enjoy the tradition of choosing your own fresh ﬁsh, but for those of you who are open to alternatives, there is also the option of purchasing frozen ﬁsh.

FROZEN FISHTOIDS Jonathan Morgan of Morgan’s Fish House Inc., contributed the above tips on choosing fresh fish and also updated Fine Cuisine on the wisdom of today’s frozen fish often being a good choice. “With fish being kept on ice, minimal handling, and being quickly packaged, buying frozen fish is a good choice. Vacuum sealing eliminates air which is what destroys fish.” He suggests that fish lovers can purchase their own home vacuum-sealing device. Failing that, tightly wrap fresh fish a few times over in cellophane; then in foil, or place in an air-tight container. While flash freezing preserves fish well, one should thaw frozen fish gradually by removing from freezer and placing in the refrigerator, or using cold water to reduce the temperature; not by rapid thawing in the microwave. Cook fish with tender, loving care as chefs caution that overcooking fish can make the flesh dry.

SUSHI DINING ETIQUETTE: 1.

When eating out and sharing a communal sushi platter, always pick up the pieces of sushi and transfer them to your plate using the broad end of the chopsticks. It is considered to be impolite (and obviously unhygienic) to use the same end you place in your mouth.

Sushi is also meant to be eaten in one or two bites. Never take a bite of a roll and place it back on the plate, just eat it already!

Don’t be afraid to use your hands as utensils, it’s perfectly acceptable. Use your ﬁngers for rolls and chopsticks for sashimi.

A clean plate is always good. Do not leave rice on the plate; eat it all, it’s a sign of respect to the chef.

Tea goes well with sushi, and so does sake. Sake can be drunk chilled, at room temperature, or hot, but this is based on the preference of the drinker and the season. One thing is certain, high quality sake is never served hot; it destroys the aromas and ﬂavours and is usually done to cover up the lack of these characteristics in old or poor quality sake.

I hope some of what I’ve written has helped you increase your sushi knowledge and etiquette, so go out and enjoy that sushi. FineCuisine 27

The Mood Behind The Food STORY BY APRILLE THOMAS

erhaps you categorize your moods as aspects of your internal being; those deep, intrinsic feelings you can’t explain and others can’t comprehend. And maybe the idea of food possessing the power to alter your moods might seem like a weird, inexplicable, out-of-body experience. Truthfully, your foods comprise vitamins and minerals that have been proven to inﬂuence various states of being. You’re always being told that you are what you eat, and perhaps a life of balanced moods begins with what’s on your plate. The trick is in understanding what these proposed ‘mood foods’ are and how you can exploit their beneﬁts.

YAWN, YAWN, STRETCH

RELAX AND UNWIND

Dragging around in your pyjamas before work? A breakfast bowl of oatmeal might help you become that chirpy morning person you always aspired to be. Oatmeal is said to aid in crankiness and irritability. This quick dish is packed with soluble ﬁbre which slows the absorption of sugar into the blood, thus smoothing out blood sugar levels for that perky feel. You can always personalize this common dish by adding fresh fruits of your choice.

After a long day you just might be able to ﬁnd comfort in a cup. Real teas all originate from the plant Camellia sinensis but are extremely diverse based on how they’re processed and produced. To kick off a calm and relaxing evening you might ﬁnd that the key is green tea. Green tea is unwilted and unoxidized and doesn’t contain as much caffeine as black tea. The result is a natural, calming effect which is excellent for stress relief.

SNOOZING AT THE DESK

FEELING SEXY AND SENSUAL?

It might be your reﬂex to reach for a cup of coffee when you start nodding off at work. But there may be another solution, an orange. This familiar fruit serves as a pick-me-up. Loaded with Vitamin C, it helps pump oxygen around your body and brain for a quick boost.

Spice up life in the bedroom with some ginger. Prepared in any fashion, ginger is a stimulant to the circulatory system. While digging around in the spice rack pick up the nutmeg too! A liberal amount of nutmeg can have a hallucinogenic effect that may serve to restructure the way you think about this spice.

MENTAL BLOCK Whether you’re having full-on writer’s block or just can’t remember that word at the tip of your tongue, foods high in Omega-3 are said to massage the brain cells. These “good” fats aren’t like the normal greasy fats and naturally occur in ﬁsh foods such as salmon, mackerel and sardines. If you don’t have time for a big meal however, a handful of walnuts should also do the trick. Bonus: Omega-3 essential fatty acids are also said to help curb hunger and decrease the risk for developing dementia.

28 FineCuisine

EARLY TO BED, HAPPY TO RISE Grabbing a handful of cherries before bed might help you sleep more peacefully and wake up in a pleasant mood. These fruits are rich in antioxidants and contain melatonin, a compound that improves the quality of sleep. They also possess a high quantity of carbohydrates which serve to increase levels of serotonin in the body, putting you in a good mood for a fresh start in the morning.

FineCuisine 29

FLAVOURING BARBADIAN FOOD AND DRINKS FOR OVER

50 years…

Specialists in coffee, hot sauce, spices, essences and mauby syrup 29 Roebuck Street, Bridgetown Tel: 426-5218

FLAVOURING BARBADIAN FOOD AND DRINKS FOR OVER

50 years…

Specialists in coffee, hot sauce, spices, essences and mauby syrup 29 Roebuck Street, Bridgetown Tel: 426-5218

30 FineCuisine

31 FineCuisine