HANDBOOK OF TOURIST - NAVIGAZIONE LAGO D'ISEO (en)

WELCOME ABOARD...

DISCOVERING LAKE ISEO

BY BOAT

Lombardia in movimento

WELCOME ABOARD...

DISCOVERING LAKE ISEO BY BOAT a publication sponsored by

Navigazione Lago d’Iseo S.r.l.

Editor Nous s.r.l., via Esterna del Molino, 18 - 24040 Stezzano (BG) tel +39 335 6548866 - edizioni.nous@gmail.com Concept and texts: © Giorgio Carradori Graphics and page-up: negrini+varetto Pisogne (BS) - Carpi (MO) www.negrinievaretto.com Maps: © Alex Perathoner Photography: © Alex Perathoner, © Fabio Cattabiani, © negrini+varetto, © Fotolia, © Cristina Mazzucchelli, © Comune di Predore, © Gian Attilio Vitali, © Gianluigi Bonomelli Translations: Angela Arnone, Daniela Zucca Entire publication © 2015 Navigazione Lago d’Iseo S.r.l.

Printed in April 2015, by: Tipografia La Cittadina - Gianico (BS) All rights reserved.

No part of the book may be duplicated, reproduced or transmitted in any form.

ISBN 978-88-95781-71-6 Nous s.r.l. is willing to recognize any rights of which it is currently unaware.

PLEASE NOTE This guide is designed for tourists using our boats. It suggests itineraries that depart from the pier, and which are usually for walking, or in some cases using bicycles or public transport.

The authors, publishers and Navigazione Lago d’Iseo s.r.l. have taken utmost care in drafting the texts but cannot accept liability for any problems arising from use of the guide.

We recommend that visitors verify which buildings are open to the public and at what times. For excursions, especially for the more demanding, it is essential that you assemble detailed information and check each route at tourist information points, ensuring you have specific maps and guidebooks.

WELCOME ABOARD LAKE ISEO BY BOAT

WELCOME ABOARD NAVIGAZIONE LAGO D’ISEO LANDSCAPE AND NATURE HISTORY AND ART NEARBY FOOD AND WINE CYCLING AND WALKING OUR SPECIAL BOAT TOURS CASTRO COSTA VOLPINO ISEO LOVERE MARONE MONTE ISOLA PARATICO PISOGNE

6 8 12 18 22 26 28 32 36 40 44 48 52 56 60 64

COSTA VOLPINO LOVERE PISOGNE

CASTRO

RIVA DI SOLTO

MARONE

TAVERNOLA BERGAMASCA

MONTE ISOLA

SALE MARASINO

SULZANO

PREDORE SARNICO

PARATICO

CLUSANE

PREDORE RIVA DI SOLTO SALE MARASINO SARNICO SULZANO TAVERNOLA B.SCA

ISEO

68 72 76 80 84 88

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Greetings to you all from the captain and crew, and from Navigazione Lago d’Iseo s.r.l.

We’ll be taking you by boat to discover this little gem among the great lakes of Lombardy.

A boat is the most exciting way to discover Sebino, as Lake Iseo was called by the ancient Romans, and as it is still often known today.

As we sail, we’ll ensure you experience “the lake from the lake” and relax as you enjoy the beautiful varied scenery of wood-covered mountains, rocky banks, charming slopes, pleasant beaches, and islands all differing from one another.

As we approach the landing points you’ll have the best view of villages overlooking the lake, and when you alight from the boat it’s like being welcomed at their front door.

With our guide we want to lead you on an exploration of all the places the boat reaches and suggest the most beautiful routes starting at each wharf.

Even if you only visit this lake by boat, you can enjoy coastal towns and their surroundings, go to swimming and sailing resorts, taste typical dishes, do some shopping, and stay in comfortable hotels, B&Bs, or campsites.

If you prefer an active holiday, there are lovely walks or bike rides, and also long excursions on nearby slopes and mountains, staying in farmhouses or in mountain chalets.

We hope that this guide will be handy, whether you’re spending just a day or weekend here, but hopefully you will keep it with you for a longer holiday on our lake.

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NAVIGAZIONE LAGO D’ISEO Navigazione Lago d’Iseo is Lake Iseo’s scheduled and tourist transport service.

Since it opened, the company has taken a dual approach.

Firstly, ensuring a scheduled ferry for the towns of Sebino and Monte Isola; secondly promoting the use of boats as a different way of exploring the lake and its villages.

Passengers using ferry services will enjoy the beautiful landscapes of mountain peaks, calm waters, small islands, Monte Isola and the small towns set on the shores from south to north.

Visitors using the tourist services can choose from the different “Tour nel Blu” (Tour in the Blue) cruises and tours on the lake, offered from March to September, lasting from a few hours to an entire day.

The lake is a great way to discover pristine nooks of nature and the artistic beauty of the area whose many treasures are still partly unknown.

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Navigazione Lago d’Iseo also offers a flexible passenger boat rental service for hosting various types of events: business meetings, anniversaries, celebrations, weddings, but also corporate events and press conferences.

The company has a fleet of 14 vessels of different sizes, with a minimum capacity of 70 people and a maximum of 400.

The two largest craft include a coffee bar, restaurant and music systems for entertainment, with 35 crew and ground staff, increased to 45 during high season.

Navigazione Lago d’Iseo S.r.l.

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“Natura, panorama, atmosfera.

Lasciatevi trasportare.”

“Nature, views and atmosphere will carry you away.”

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LANDSCAPE AND NATURE

Lake Sebino was created in ancient times, dug out by the action of a large alpine glacier. It is Italy’s sixth largest lake in surface area but is unique in being the setting for the largest and highest lake island in Europe: Monte Isola, with two smaller islands, Loreto and San Paolo, nearby.

As you sail on the lake your eye is drawn to a perfect combination of alpine and Mediterranean environments.

The alpine world can be seen in the mountain range, snowcapped in winter, the copious waters of the River Oglio that flow into the lake, the spring rains that make the slopes

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so green, the cool breeze that tempers summer heat.

The mild climate, bright sunlight, and flora that includes the iconic olive, on the other hand, has a very southern feel.

From the boat you’ll appreciate the meeting of land and water, with dramatic high cliffs falling sheer to the depths of the lake and gentle hills sloping down to the shoreline, or the wetlands, created by the overlapping of earth and water, where nature reigns supreme.

The lake has many natural attractions and we can only show some on this page, so check the other sections, dedicated to individual locations.

Clearly visible from the boat is the steep stretch of coast between Riva di Solto and Castro, where the most fascinating point is the Orrido di Zorzino, a gorge known locally as the “Bögn”.

The gorge called “Orrido di Zorzino” or “Bögn”

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LANDSCAPE AND NATURE Here a small, solitary bay is dominated by a tall rock face overlooking the lake, formed by many vertical layers of limestone. A little further on, you’ll meet another gorge, called the Bögn di Castro, where a rock curtain looms over the narrow coastal road.

Water lilies

Cruising between Iseo and Clusane you’ll come across the Riserva Naturale delle Torbiere del Sebino (Peat Bog Nature Reserve) well worth the interesting hike to reach it.

There are about 360 hectares consisting of a kind of peat lagoon that borders on the lake, numerous pools, meadows and farmlands. The bogs began to form about 10,000 years ago, at the end of the last Ice Age, and from the mid-1800s were exploited for about a century to extract peat that was used as fuel.

Tench

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The “Torbiere� peat bog trail

This small natural paradise offers visitors various routes.

Numerous species of birds (bittern, little bittern, purple heron, black-crowned night heron, black kite, marsh harrier, little crake, spotted crake, kingfisher, red-backed shrike) nest here and the waters are home to many varieties of fish, including pike, catfish, eel, carp, redfin perch, and tench.

The vegetation is lush and abounds with reeds, bulrushes, poplars and alders, and water lilies cover part of the pools.

Coot

Heron

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LANDSCAPE AND NATURE The Riserva Regionale delle Piramidi di Erosione di Zone (Zone Erosion Pyramids Regional Reserve) is an entirely unique natural monument, located at 400-600 metres in altitude, along the road that connects Marone to the mountain district of Zone and its plateau.

The erosive action of water on the moraine soils, caused by the melting of an ancient glacier, combined with the protection offered by the large rocks set like hats on top of the columns of rock and soil, has resulted in pyramids up to 30 metres in height. A circuit allows visitors to approach them closer.

Zone “Pyramids�

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Monte Isola

Last but not least, there is perhaps the most significant beauty spot: Monte Isola. The island stands at the centre of the lake and is home to several small, ancient rural and fishing hamlets, with plentiful olive trees in the south and wooded areas to the north.

The Madonna della Ceriola sanctuary, Monte Isola

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HISTORY AND ART Since ancient times this has been a place of human settlement and the thousands of years of work spent transforming the area has resulted in terraced hill slopes, pastures, olive groves and vineyards, creating a successful fusion between nature and humanity.

Prehistoric pile-dwellings can be seen in Paratico and Sarnico, while at Marone and Predore the ancient Romans built settlements and even villas in the more agreeable places. The Middle Ages were a restless time for Lake Sebino, with barbarian invasions, wars and frequent family feuds. In the mid-1400s, however, it was acquired by the Republic of Venice and this guaranteed a long period of peace, almost to the 1800s.

After a few decades, Sebino became part of the new Italy, unified after many centuries.

Frequent testimonies of the past are dotted around: towns, castles and towers, churches and monasteries, mansions and villas, artworks.

Rocca Martinengo, the fortress on Monte Isola

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Monastery of San Pietro in Lamosa, Provaglio d’Iseo

Many lake towns have a typical ancient centre, perfect for pleasant strolls around the lanes.

The best known are the larger old towns of Iseo, Lovere and Sarnico; smaller, but no less fascinating, are the centres of Riva di Solto, Sale Marasino, Tavernola, and Predore, while Sulzano’s ancient Via Cadorna is a must-see street.

Rocca Martinengo is a fortress set solitary on a promontory on the south side of Monte Isola, dominating the skyline.

The Oldofredi Castle, with its massive corner towers, stands guard over the town of Iseo. Medieval towers loom in Pisogne, Lovere, Paratico, Predore, Riva di Solto and Tavernola.

On the outskirts of the Torbiere del Sebino nature reserve a mystical atmosphere cloaks the charming, secluded Cluniac monastery of San Pietro in Lamosa.

Standing at the top of Monte Isola, in one of the loveliest lookout spots on the lake, halfway between the sky and the earth, the sanctuary of Madonna della Ceriola (see p. 17) is well worth the long haul up the slope.

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HISTORY AND ART Sant’Andrea parish church is a significant example of medieval architecture (see p. 47) in Iseo, its façade featuring a tall bell tower and a Gothic sarcophagus.

In Lovere there is a 15th-century basilica, that of Santa Maria in Valvendra, exceptional for its architectural value but also for its wonderful treasure trove of frescoes and a 16th-century organ with precious painted panels.

Romanino fresco, Pisogne

In Pisogne, the Madonna della Neve shrine is famous for the frescoes by Romanino, the great 16th-century Brescia painter whose work broke away from Renaissance idealism with its folk-realistic style.

The large parish church of Sale Marasino (see p. 76) is typically Baroque, with its majestic double staircase offering a welcome to those arriving from the lake.

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Accademia Tadini, Lovere

Among the noble mansions the most noteworthy is Lovere’s 19th-century neoclassical Accademia Tadini, a cultural institution with a museum of important paintings and precious collections of works of applied art.

From the end of the 1800s to the early 1900s, Sarnico enjoyed the flourishing of Art Nouveau or Liberty style.

It was here that its most important Italian champion, architect Giuseppe Sommaruga, left many buildings, among which three splendid villas.

Villa Faccanoni, Sarnico

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NEARBY Franciacorta To the south of Lake Iseo is Franciacorta, a district made up of 19 municipalities in the province of Brescia, as well as the city of Brescia itself, for a total area of 20,000 hectares.

Its cultural, historical and natural legacy is a mosaic of stunning verdant settings and long, gentle slopes.

Here we find ancient villages, fine churches, abbeys and monasteries, stately homes, castles and towers.

The famous Franciacorta sparkling wine comes from the vineyards on the moraine hills that line the lakeshore.

The name Franciacorta refers not only to the wine but also to the vinification method used, known as “metodo classico” or even “metodo Franciacorta”, named to call attention to the uniqueness of this wine, whose production protocol is the strictest in the world for this type of wine.

Franciacorta vineyard

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Franciacorta winery

Mount Adamello

Valcamonica The valley is 90 km in length and leads from the northern end of the lake to the foot of the Alps, created by the same glacier action that formed Sebino. Valcamonica is a place to visit all year round: for art and history lovers there are castles, churches, mansions, and archaeological sites.

Breno castle in Valcamonica

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NEARBY

Naquane rock carvings, Capo di Ponte

The most significant are 100,000 and more rock carvings produced by the prehistoric Camuno civilization, mainly in the first millennium BCE, and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The gastronomy offers cheeses and cured meats, as well as many typical dishes. Those who love active holidays will be spoiled for choice for hiking or mountain biking, enjoying nature in the great Adamello Park, and some skiing in the vast Adamello Ski district.

Last but not least, if you want to pamper yourself with some wellness treatments, be sure to check out the spas at Boario and Angolo.

Terme di Boario spa

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Valle del Freddo The Riserva Naturale della Valle del Freddo (Valle del Freddo Nature Reserve) is an area of great natural interest located along the main road leading to Lake Endine from Lovere. The valley’s name means “cold” in Italian, and derives from the unique microclimate phenomenon produced here by the currents of cool air (2-4° C) discharged through a few “holes of cold”; this fosters development at low altitude of a large number of plant species typical of the subalpine-alpine belt, including edelweiss.

Lake Endine Easily accessible from Lovere and Riva di Solto, enclosed by a narrow valley, the lake has retained much of the intact natural environment. Some stretches of the banks border on thick reed beds, which is a mating habitat for many fish species and a haven for birdlife. In other sections you’ll find small beaches, a place where you can catch some rest and recreation in summer.

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FOOD AND WINE Sebino, Franciacorta and Valcamonica boast a culinary tradition of the highest calibre, a special fusion generated by a territory varied both in terms of morphology and climate, but also by traditions handed down over the generations.

If you venture into one of the many restaurants, osterias and farmhouses you’ll find on your travels, you can sample any number of delicious dishes typical of the lake, the mountains and the hills of Franciacorta.

Lake Iseo vaunts a number of emblematic products that are very popular in modern gastronomy, like fish, olive oil obtained from the groves on the hills, cheeses from mountain areas, and the famous wines of the hinterland.

Apart from the eponymous Franciacorta wine (see p. 22), let’s not forget Curtefranca whites and reds.

From the Bergamo west shore, try Valcalepio white, red or moscato passito, and also Terre del Colleoni wines of various types.

Lake fish specialities include sardines dried and preserved in olive oil and salt, a typical Monte Isola dish, or baked tench stuffed with polenta, a Clusane speciality, and also char, filleted perch, and freshwater whitefish.

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Casoncelli pasta

Rosa Camuna cheese

Breaded perch

Production of cured meats in the Sebino district is limited but revolves mainly around traditional charcuterie like salami, above all the tasty Monte Isola version.

Cheeses certainly worth trying are the Silter, typical of mountain areas; Casolet, made in a triangular form; Formaggella, wheels of hot-curd cheese; Rosa Camuna and Stracchino “Bronzone”, the latter a soft-paste cheese.

And for a truly unforgettable experience, Navigazione Lago d’Iseo offers year-round food and wine cruises to enhance the pleasure of a lake cruise with local cuisine.

Dinner on board

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CYCLING AND WALKING If you like to be “on the move” when you’re on holiday, here you can choose from several pleasant itineraries along the coast and nearby slopes. We’re including just a few suggestions here, so check the rest of the guide for more information.

The Sentiero Natura del Sebino is a nature trail comprising a circuit of 17 km to be covered on foot. You can set off at Riva di Solto and follow mule tracks and footpaths through chestnut woods and deciduous forests, meeting terraced vineyards and olive groves as you go, not to mention some breath-taking views of the lake. Lovere-Bossico-Ceratello-Lovere is another circular route of 17 km, but much more challenging and suitable for mountain bikes. The trail is mostly stony and you will need to be in good shape for some of the slopes, with gradients up to 30%. Scenically it is worthwhile for some unparalleled views of the lake, Valcamonica and, looking south, the hills of Franciacorta.

Nature lovers and mountain bikers will find the dedicated Strada Verde, a 55-km circuit that connects Tavernola Bergamasca, Vigolo, San Fermo, Adrara San Rocco, Sarnico and Predore, worth exploring for the combination

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Via Valeriana

of lake and mountain landscapes, and stunning views.

The eastern shore of Sebino is crossed by the ancient Via Valeriana, and seeks to retrace the ancient Roman-medieval route. The journey starts from Pisogne and covers higher slopes, reaching 930 metres above sea level, then descending and ending in Pilzone, a district of Iseo, after 25-30 km. You can also try it by mountain bike, but you should be experienced.

The route is installed with numerous information panels and is very scenic and varied, crossing woods and olive groves, passing by churches, farmhouses, medieval villages, and even skirting the Piramidi di Zone regional park.

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CYCLING AND WALKING

Vello-Toline trail

An easy flat route unfolds along the old decommissioned road which is now a cycle and pedestrian path connecting Vello (district of Marone) to Toline (district of Pisogne). The short and fascinating 5 km pass sheer above the lake in old tunnels dug into the rock and between the inlets created by the steep faces of Mount Corno dei Trentapassi, offering broad views of the areas of the lake and numerous alpine peaks and foothills.

Iseo is just a few kilometres from the Riserva Naturale delle Torbiere (described earlier), which you can reach on foot or by bicycle. After visiting the monastery of San Pietro in Lamosa, why not continue on foot into the marshes, where we recommend a circuit of 4 km.

Monte Isola is the ideal place for a visit on foot or by bicycle.

Here you can forget the traffic and take in the entire 9 km of its circumference admiring the villages, olive groves, woods and the ample landscape around you. Other, more challenging routes are available if you want to try your hand at roads and trails up the beautiful slopes, as far as the peak, with the shrine of the Madonna della Ceriola (described earlier).

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The Paratico-Palazzolo cycle path is a simple 20-km trail that follows the Oglio river valley and in some points skirts the banks. You can start at the southern part of the lake, arriving at the town of Capriolo, and finish at Palazzolo sull’Oglio, enjoying beautiful views of the river, the countryside and the surrounding hills.

Another cycle path starts in Paratico, crosses Franciacorta, and reaches the outskirts of Brescia.

For the fitter among you, why not try the lakeside itinerary, alternating normal roads and stretches of cycle path, for a total of about 65 km.

To make the tour less demanding, more varied and safer, you can use existing cycle paths and the boat service in other sections, taking your bike with you.

Finally, experienced hikers can dedicate a day to reaching the peaks around Sebino, going up the mountain paths from Pisogne to Corno dei Trentapassi (1,248 metres asl), from Marone to Mount Guglielmo (1,948 metres asl), and from Sarnico to Mount Bronzone (1,334 metres asl).

Corno dei Trentapassi

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OUR SPECIAL BOAT TOURS When you were “welcomed aboard”, we invited you to experience “the lake from the lake” and every tourist will certainly be able to arrange their preferred route by checking the boat timetables. Apart from this, however, Navigazione Lago d’Iseo s.r.l. understands the tastes and needs of its customers, so it arranges special themed cruises called “Tour nel Blu”, to bring other experiences and emotions.

The short Tour delle Tre Isole (Tour of the Three Islands), also suitable for small children, requires just a few hours and has no stops; it shows Monte Isola in all its glory and reveals the hint of mystery of the small private islands of Loreto and San Paolo.

Island of Loreto

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Monte Isola - Peschiera Maraglio

With the Sebino Cruises you can spend an entire day enjoying the beauty of the lake.

They neatly combine relaxing moments while on the water with guided tours of the historic centres, and leave time to browse in open-air markets and have lunch in a typical restaurant.

Island of San Paolo

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OUR SPECIAL BOAT TOURS

If these trips leave happy memories of landscapes and places visited in the light of day, our Night Cruises reveal the more romantic side of the Sebino. Setting sail in the golden sunset and seeing the water light up with the reflected villages, wandering into the night across the water, is an unforgettable experience.

Couples who would like a special evening and groups of friends looking for fun together will enjoy our dinners on board, DJ sets and other entertainment.

If you are a connoisseur of gastronomy, you will enjoy our Evening Dining Cruises dedicated to the delights of the table, featuring the best of local wine and food.

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CASTRO A gentle breeze, which the locals call the “Ora”, will greet you in summer as you enter the small, medieval town square for your stroll.

In the lanes of the old town, all leading to the lake, you breathe in the scent of ancient times, the bustling atmosphere of a bygone era.

Along Via Matteotti, you’ll find the old parish church of San Giacomo, with a beautiful 18th-century portal by the Fantoni school. Continue along the street, passing under the characteristic covered passageways, and you’ll see the modern architecture of the new church of San Giacomo Maggiore.

Retracing your steps, you can now explore Via Papa Giovanni XXIII, looking out for the small Natività church

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5

T TEO MAT VIA

2 VIA PAPA GIOVAN

NI

4 NOVEMBRE VIA

TORRENTE

TINAZZO

I BAN

VIA

A ROCC

MA E RO VIAL

U VIA Z

4

6 7

TI

PIAZZ PORTOA

3

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1

1 Lakeside terrace 2 Small NativitĂ church 3 Casa Tedoldi

4 Old church of

6 Rocca (fort)

San Giacomo

5 New church of San Giacomo

7 Small church of San Lorenzo

of the 13th century, with a beautiful 18th-century marble altar and 16th-century frescoes. As you leave the church, you may notice a lovely view of the lake, so follow Via Rocca to the bridge where the Tinazzo brook tumbles noisily into Sebino. Here there is a tree-lined lakeside terrace and if you are fortunate enough to have time to linger, you will notice the verses of the poet Montanari, etched in a bronze book.

From this terrace you can stroll back to the dock along the lakefront, passing in front of Casa Tedoldi, a 17th-century building.

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CASTRO BRIEF HISTORY Castro was founded in the Dark Ages as a fortified port in the first half of the 11th century. With intense trade and strong agriculture, Castro was very prestigious at that time, and the major iron and steel plant now operating in the municipality traces its origins back to the ancient smithies of the 1200s.

EXCURSIONS AND LEISURE • Starting from Via Grè and following the shoreline, you soon reach the foot of the tall cliffs with a fearsome overhang into the lake at the Orrido del Bögn di Castro ravine.

• From the shore you can also take the Sentiero dello Stross path to a scenic area and small playground, with breathtaking views of the lake and of the ravine at your feet; from here you can climb to the high part of town (the “Rocca”, a fort now in ruins) or return to the lake shore along Via Rocca.

• Starting from the Rocca and proceeding along Via Coletto, you’ll reach the small church of San Lorenzo, with a beautiful Romanesque apse; alternatively you can go to the old Poltragno hydraulic hammer, or explore the Cerrete path as far as the Balot of Grè, an impressive stone set in a small glade, with a breathtaking view over the lake.

• An easy trail leads to the Gola del Tinazzo park, where a deep gully has been dug out by the water and is hugged by two massive faces, 40 metres in height; the park is also the habitat for some interesting botanical species.

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Orrido di Castro gorge

The lake here is flat and windblown in equal measure . . . more sublime still for its blank surface, inscribed only with the thoughts of those who look on at any given moment.

(R. Montanari)

INFO CASTRO Tourist Infopoint - IAT ALTO SEBINO Piazza 13 Martiri, 37 - 24065 Lovere (BG) Tel +39 035 962178 - Fax +39 035 962178 info@iataltosebino.it

TOWN HALL Via Matteotti, 45 - 24063 Castro (BG) Tel +39 035 960666 - Fax +39 035 962783

WEB www.comune.castro.bg.it www.turismo.bergamo.it www.iataltosebino.it www.iseolake.info

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COSTA VOLPINO From Lovere pier it’s easy to reach the district of Corti (home to the town hall for this municipality of seven districts).

Via Nazionale is a busy, modern road, lined with numerous buildings and arcades with businesses and shops. Turning into Via Baiguini you’ll soon come to the large birdlife park along the River Oglio.

This peaceful oasis is ideal for taking a little exercise but is also a haven for various species of birds, including herons, little egrets and grebes.

The upper part of Corti, the medieval Volpino quarter, and the parish church of Santo Stefano are all worth visiting.

The latter has an interesting altar and an altarpiece from the late 1500s. To reach the mountain districts of Branico, Qualino, Flaccanico, and Ceratello it’s best to use the bus service.

Navigazione Lago d’Iseo docks

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PIANO

4 VOLPINO

CORTI VIA BAIGUINI

5

LIO E OG FIUM

S TE EN RR O T

INE UP

CERATELLO QUALINO

6

1 3 BRANICO FLACCANICO

2

1 Parish church of San Giorgio

4 Parish church of San Stefano

2 Parish church of Sant’Ambrogio

5 Birdlife park

3 Parish church of San Bartolomeo

6 Navigazione Lago d’Iseo registered offices and docks

Along the many switchbacks on the journey, the views of Sebino and Valcamonica gradually become bigger and bigger. You’ll see the mountain slopes terraced with stone walls, houses with barns and woodpiles ready for the cold season, and you’ll discover beautiful church architecture.

The parish church of San Bartolomeo, in Branico, still has interesting 1400s’ frescoes; the parish church of Sant’Ambrogio, in Qualino, has a beautiful Baroque portal in black marble; the parish church of San Giorgio, in Ceratello, boasts a splendid panoramic position.

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COSTA VOLPINO BRIEF HISTORY In the past the Costa Volpino played an important strategic role, able to control communications between Sebino and Valcamonica.

Defensive fortifications were built in the tenth century, followed by several castles, long contended by Bergamo and Brescia, but later events led to their destruction.

In the 17th century corn was grown in Italy for the first time, the seeds smuggled here from the Indies by an adventurous local military leader called Gaioncelli. Traditional quarrying of a particular chalk (called volpinite) is now flanked by important industrial and commercial plants in the Piano district.

EXCURSIONS AND LEISURE • From Ceratello you will easily reach an agritourism facility or the “ai ciar” district, where you’ll find a trattoria, stables, a fishing pool, and a playground.

• Also from Ceratello you can take various excursions along footpaths and bridleways. The least demanding leads to the town of Bossico; the most challenging to the Rifugio Magnolini at 1,612 metres above sea level, where you can also stay overnight. From this sunny plateau you will love the broad panorama of the Alpine foothills and Lake Iseo.

Parish church of San Giorgio, Ceratello

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Birdlife park at the mouth of the River Oglio

INFO COSTA VOLPINO Tourist Infopoint - IAT ALTO SEBINO Piazza 13 Martiri, 37 - 24065 Lovere (BG) Tel +39 035 962178 - Fax +39 035 962178 info@iataltosebino.it

TOWN HALL Piazza Caduti di Nassirya, 3 - 24062 Costa Volpino (BG) Tel +39 035 970290 - Fax +39 035 970891

WEB www.comune.costavolpino.bg.it www.turismo.bergamo.it www.iataltosebino.it www.iseolake.info

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ISEO The pier is right beside a square, lined with pleasant open-air coffee bars and ice cream parlours.

If you bear right at the jetty, onto the coastal promenade, you’ll come to the Vecchia Filanda, an old spinnery now converted with a courtyard of cafeterias and shops of various kinds.

The charming feel is reminiscent of Venice. On the way back you can take Via Campo, which offers beautiful views of the lake. Lungolago Marconi is the lakeside promenade, also lined with shops, coffee bars and ice cream parlours, and it also has a splendid view. The old town is a surprise! One side comprises the Oldofredi Castle (12th century), the other Sant’Andrea parish church, which features a large Romanesque belfry (12th century) and a Gothic sarcophagus on the façade; lastly there is the old spinnery. You can lose yourself in quiet, narrow lanes, then emerge onto the large, elegant and busy arcaded squares that make up the centre of Iseo. In a small square there is still a public wash house.

In the lanes you’ll often see arches supporting dwellings,

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3

VIALE REPUB BLICA

4

1

2

PIAZZA MAZZINI

PIAZZA GARIBALDI

VIA CAMPO

7

PIAZZA STATUTO

5

6

1 Sant’Andrea parish church 4 Church of Santa Maria

6 Arsenal

2 Church of San Silvestro

7 Old spinnery

della Neve 5 Sanctuary of Santa Maria del Mercato

3 Oldofredi Castle

decorated with flowering balconies in wrought iron and stone doorways on the houses. Even the greengrocers, florists and bakeries here have a special charm, with artisan workshops, antique shops, wine bars, cafés, and little restaurants everywhere. If you notice an aroma of wine, then you’re near an “osteria” or tavern. Make sure you visit the Arsenale (the medieval armoury currently used as a cultural centre), the churches of Santa Maria al Mercato (14th century), San Silvestro (13th century), and the sanctuary of Santa Maria della Neve (17th century).

45

ISEO

Clusane

THE CLUSANE AND PILZONE DISTRICTS If you land on the long pier, head for Clusane, the district with a truly historic atmosphere. From the pretty lakeside promenade you can observe the large marina and a sweeping view of the lake.

Above looms the severe outline of Carmagnola Castle.

Clusane is well known for its many restaurants where you can sample the local fish speciality of “tinca al forno” or baked tench.

Pilzone is famous for the historic fig tree that grows on the parish church belfry, and because it’s the southernmost tip of the ancient Via Valeriana (see p. 29).

EXCURSIONS AND LEISURE • In the summer you can go to the Sassabanek complex, with its lido facilities, swimming pools, tennis courts, and campsite, or to the Lido Belvedere, also with a swimming pool and a lawn on the lake.

• From Iseo and Clusane it’s easy to reach the Riserva Naturale delle Torbiere (Peat Bog Nature Reserve) and the monastery of San Pietro in Lamosa (see p. 14 and p. 19).

46

Sant’Andrea parish church

BRIEF HISTORY Of prehistoric origins, Iseo has been a main port since Roman times. In the Middle Ages, protected by its fortified urban walls and its castle, it became of strategic importance for the city of Brescia.

For centuries it was a trading centre, also developing its wool and silk industries, which flourished in the 1800s.

The port did not lose its importance until the early 1900s, when the new railway line towards Valcamonica was built.

INFO ISEO Tourist Infopoint - IAT Lungolago Marconi, 2 c - 25049 Iseo (BS) Tel +39 030 980209 / +39 030 3748733 - Fax +39 030 981361 iat.iseo@provincia.brescia.it

TOWN HALL Piazza Garibaldi, 10 - 25049 Iseo (BS) Tel +39 030 980161 - Fax +39 030 981420

WEB www.comune.iseo.bs.it www.provincia.brescia.it/turismo www.iseolake.info

47

LOVERE On leaving the boat you’ll set foot in Piazza 13 Martiri, a charming amphitheatre with splendid buildings and a variety of businesses, including coffee bars, restaurants and hotels. If you climb the Vicolo Cavallotti steps and turn into Via Gramsci, you’ll be in the medieval village, brought to life by its little shops and where it’s not unusual to smell freshly baked bread. Then you reach Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, with its Torre Civica, a tower with a striking internal climb.

Along the path that leads to the Accademia Tadini, glance upwards and you’ll notice two more impressive towers, Torre Soca and Torre degli Alghisi. Also worth a visit is the parish church of San Giorgio and the sanctuary dedicated to the Lovere saints, Capitanio and Gerosa. If you turn onto Via Brighenti in Vicolo Cavallotti, you’ll find the characteristic Gradinata Ratto and the San Martino oratory, the ancient church and monastery of Santa Chiara, Piazza 13 Martiri

48

VIA MARTINOLI

8

9

7 5

2 6 VIA OPRANDI

3

VIA S. MARIA

10 11

4 PIAZZA 13 MARTIRI DINI

VIA TA

1

1 Accademia Tadini

5 Parish church

9 Basilica of

2 Sanctuary

6 Torre Soca

3 Torre degli Alghisi

7 San Martino and Santa Chiara 10 Palazzo Marinoni

4 Torre Civica

8 Palazzo Bazzini

Santa Maria in Valvendra

11 Palazzo Zitti-Gregorini

and lastly the 15th-century basilica of Santa Maria in Valvendra. The interior is richly decorated and has important frescoes as well as a large organ with precious painted panels. If you then continue as far as the nearby Promenade Lady Montagu (in Via Gregorini), you can experience the water close up, admiring the stunning surroundings.

From the landing, turn left and go along the lakeside, where you’ll find the prestigious Accademia Tadini with important works by Antonio Canova and paintings of the Venetian and Lombard schools from the 14th to the 18th centuries, not to mention a rich collection of Italian and European porcelain.

Continuing your walk along the lake you’ll come to the marina, and why not relax at an outdoor café to enjoy the beautiful views of the lake and Valcamonica.

49

LOVERE BRIEF HISTORY In a strategic geographical position, Lovere was inhabited in prehistoric and in Roman times. In the Middle Ages it was hotly disputed between the Guelphs and Ghibellines, and was thus fortified with walls and towers. In the 15th century, during the Renaissance, the wealth accumulated with the production and trade of woollen cloth allowed fine buildings to be added to Lovere. Later, iron processing became the main economic activity and turned into real industry in the 19th century, its ironworks casting the cannons for the Republic of Venice and then for Napoleon.

EXCURSIONS AND LEISURE • A short walk will take you to the so-called Castelletto Lovere and the San Maurizio hill, a beautiful scenic location and home to the church and convent of the Capuchin Friars, as well as the chapel of San Pietro, with its precious 1400s’ fresco.

• A pleasant hike of about an hour will take you to the San Giovanni sanctuary in Monte Cala, with its stunning views of Sebino and Valcamonica.

50

Basilica of Santa Maria in Valvendra

INFO LOVERE Tourist Infopoint - IAT ALTO SEBINO Piazza 13 Martiri, 37 - 24065 Lovere (BG) Tel +39 035 962178 - Fax +39 035 962178 info@iataltosebino.it

TOWN HALL Via G. Marconi, 19 - 24065 Lovere (BG) Tel +39 035 983623 - Fax +39 035 983008 info@comune.lovere.bg.it

WEB www.comune.lovere.bg.it www.lovereeventi.it www.turismo.bergamo.it www.iataltosebino.it www.iseolake.info

51

MARONE As you alight from the boat your eye will fall upon the elegant façade of the 18th-century parish church of San Martino, decorated with numerous statues.

Inside, enjoy the paintings by Domenico Voltolini and Giuseppe Tortelli.

The charming lakeside promenade to the right of the wharf is lined with houses of a bygone era.

After Opolo stream, you’ll happen upon a delightful tiny harbour that invites you to linger; just beyond, a beautiful public park has benches among its olive trees.

Returning to the pier, go left and after passing the old felting plant (an interesting industrial archaeology site), you’ll come to Villa Vismara public park, then you can continue down to a small beach on the bank of the Bagnadore, Parish church of San Martino

52

E U EL MAN V. E VIA

ALLE VIA MAK

VIA ROMA

VIA ROMA

3

TO RR EN TE OP OL O

VIA ROMA

2

1

1 Villa Vismara

2 Parish church

3 Church of San Pietro

the other stream that flanks Marone.

Now you’ve seen the old town but don’t rush off, it’s nice to find places to linger, enjoy the views of the lake and the light at various times of day.

Village of Vesto

53

MARONE BRIEF HISTORY The area was already inhabited in Roman times. In the Middle Ages the swampy shore was reclaimed by the Benedictine monks.

The development of the village began in the 16th century following the expansion of the port to handle the timber and charcoal brought from the surrounding mountains.

Later production of wool and of felt became important, as did mining of the dolostone mineral, which continues today.

The traditional cultivation of olive trees allows Marone to be a member of the International association of oil producing towns.

EXCURSIONS AND LEISURE • If you enjoy archaeology then walk along Via Roma and Via Cristini for about a kilometre, towards Iseo, and visit the remains of a Roman villa. You’ll find traces of about 80 metres of walls which formed the terraces sloping down towards the lake, as well as the remains of an arcade with niches.

• A charming walk leads to the church of San Pietro (15th century), located on a solitary rocky outcrop, a silent, mystical balcony over the lake. It is reached from Via Roma and is preceded by a staircase flanked by the Stations of the Cross.

From here you can go on up to Passo Croce di Zone, passing through the village of Pregasso, Valpintana and the Collepiano district, with its small Baroque church of San Bernardo.

• A lovely hike to the sanctuary of the Madonna della Rota will lead you to a delicate 15th-century fresco set in a lunette above the entrance.

• A very challenging excursion leads to the top of Mount Guglielmo (1,948 metres asl), which has one of the most beautiful views of the Alps and the Po Valley. The trail begins at Zone, easy to reach with public transport.

54

Village of Vello

INFO MARONE Tourist Infopoint - IAT Lungolago Marconi, 2 c - 25049 Iseo (BS) Tel +39 030 980209 / +39 030 3748733 - Fax +39 030 981361 iat.iseo@provincia.brescia.it

TOWN HALL Via Roma, 10 - 25054 Marone (BS) Tel +39 030 987104 - Fax +39 030 9877067

WEB www.comune.marone.bs.it www.maroneacolori.it www.provincia.brescia.it/turismo www.rivieradegliulivi.bs.it www.iseolake.info

15th-century fresco Sanctuary of Madonna della Rota

55

MONTE ISOLA Monte Isola is a single municipality comprising a number of districts and it is car free.

You’ll soon feel at home here as the place will awaken your desire for a quieter life.

Tranquillity is the keyword on this island and is woven from the bright reflections of the waters, the silvery leaves of the olive trees, the airy spaces all around.

It comes from the sounds you hear: the lapping of the lake, the wind, the birds singing, the voices of children playing in the streets, and bells ringing.

It emerges from the scent of flowers, of wood burning in fireplaces, fish caught or being cooked. Work marks time for farmers, builders of houses or boats, fishermen, women knotting fishing nets.

Peschiera Maraglio is the main pier, with shops, coffee bars, restaurants and ice cream parlours. It still has its look of a fishing village with a few mansions. It is dominated by the elegant Oldofredi Castle and the parish church of San Michele (16th century).

Carzano is another important jetty for an ancient village overlooking the lake, with coffee bars, restaurants and typical little ports where fishing boats are moored. The parish church of San Giovanni Battista dates from the 18th century. Palazzo Martinengo is also interesting. A shady public park with tables is a great place to relax. Definitely worth a visit is the nearby ancient district of Novale and a few ferries also stop at the Paradiso locality.

56

ISOLA DI LORETO

PARADISO CARZANO

3 PORTO

OLZANO

1 2

8

SIVIANO

1 Siviano parish church

9 MASSE

2 Martinengo tower 3 Villa Ferrata 4 Rocca Martinengo fortress

SINCHIGNANO CURE

5 Church of San Severino

10 MENZINO SENZANO

6 Parish church of Peschiera M.

4

5

7 Oldofredi Castle 8 Carzano parish church

SENSOLE

9 Church of San Rocco ISOLA DI S. PAOLO

6

7

PESCHIERA MARAGLIO

10 Madonna della Ceriola sanctuary

Near the port of Siviano, from the boat you may observe Villa Ferrata (16th century) and if you go ashore in this secluded hamlet, you can attempt the steep climb to Siviano, the island capital. The urban plan is essentially medieval, as can be seen from the Martinengo tower and also vaunting stately mansions of a later period; the parish church of SS. Faustino and Jovita (18th century) dominates from above.

Sensole also has a jetty and this tiny hamlet, filled with lemon and mimosa trees, lies in a pleasant, secluded spot, surrounded by an olive grove. From here you can reach the Rocca Martinengo, the impressive fortress (13th-14th century).

57

MONTE ISOLA BRIEF HISTORY In antiquity the area was completely wooded and a pagan temple was built at the top. In the fifth century AD it was Christianized by Saint Vigilio, the Bishop of Brescia. The site was a rural monastic possession in around 1000 AD, when farming villages began to develop in higher positions. Later, fishing villages grew up along the coast. Towards the 13th century, to defend the territory of Brescia, the Oldofredis built a castle that was then passed to the Martinengos, hence today’s name. Monte Isola has a centuries-old tradition in the manufacture of fishing nets and construction of wooden boats.

EXCURSIONS AND LEISURE • A light-filled, picturesque coastal road through the olive groves connects Peschiera Maraglio to Sensole; along the path you’ll find picnic areas. Facing Sensole, the island of San Paolo (once the site of a monastery); to the south, a horizon of rolling hills.

• A shady road through the woods connects Carzano to Siviano.

Along the way you’ll note the island of Loreto, with a villa in neo-Gothic style; tall mountains form a skyline whose winter snow gleams in the sunlight.

• The most important hike is to the 13th-century Madonna della Ceriola sanctuary, the heart and soul of Sebino. Set on a rocky outcrop at 600 metres above sea level, you’ll find a breathtaking view of the whole lake and surrounding mountains. It can be reached from the ancient village of Cure along two bridleways.

Cure can be reached from Peschiera by going up to the rural hamlet of Senzano, or from Siviano, passing through the ancient village of Masse; from Carzano, Cure is reached passing through Novale and Olzano.

• The emblematic and easy hike of about 9 km will take you around the perimeter of the island, half on coastal roads and half at altitude.

• The traditional festival of Santa Croce is very unusual and very appealing, attracting visitors for its typical multicoloured paper flowers. It is held in Carzano every five years (September 2015, 2020, 2025 etc.).

58

Arriving at the port of Peschiera Maraglio

INFO MONTE ISOLA Tourist Office - Loc. Peschiera Maraglio, 151 Tel/Fax 030.98.25.088 - turistico@comune.monteisola.bs.it Tourist Infopoint - IAT Lungolago Marconi, 2 c - 25049 Iseo (BS) Tel +39 030 980209 / +39 030 3748733 - Fax +39 030 981361 iat.iseo@provincia.brescia.it

TOWN HALL LocalitĂ Siviano, 76 - 25050 Monte Isola (BS) Tel +39 030 9825226 - Fax +39 030 9825078

WEB www.comune.monteisola.bs.it www.borghitalia.it www.provincia.brescia.it/turismo www.rivieradegliulivi.bs.it www.iseolake.info

59

PARATICO Paratico is the town of stone sculptures and can be reached by disembarking at Sarnico then crossing the bridge between the two towns.

There are a number of attractive shops, coffee bars, ice cream parlours and restaurants to be found in the new buildings constructed in traditional style near the bridge.

A broad lakeside promenade leads us to the Parco delle Erbe Danzanti, a park of dancing grasses where you’ll see numerous different plants and the old jetties used to moor barges (see p. 62).

The Treno Blu steam train stops at the nearby railway station during the summer season, on its journey from Palazzolo through the lovely Oglio Nord park.

If you walk down Via XXIV Maggio you’ll see a square with a large fountain. The modern buildings nearby house shops, Il parco delle erbe danzanti, a park project by landscape architect Cristina Mazzucchelli

60

4 3

VIA MO

IOLI

1 RIS VIA

IM ORG

2 The “Oselanda” RE EDE ELV

3 Torre Lantieri VIA

B VIA

4 Lantieri castle

IO GG MA

N PA

IV

VIA

I CA AM OR

XX

2

1 Parish church

O ENT

5 “Erbe Danzanti” park

VIALE MADRUZZA

5

MA VIA RO

VIA MARCONI

FIUME OGLIO

SARNICO

coffee bars and other venues.

Turning into Via Risorgimento, you come to the public park with an attractive view over the lake.

You’ll also see the Oselanda, an interesting 19th-century building in the neo-Gothic style.

There is another belvedere on Via Moioli, where you also find the large parish church of Santa Maria Assunta.

The church has an 18th-century fresco of the Assumption of Mary and several valuable altars.

Torre Lantieri

61

PARATICO BRIEF HISTORY Paratico has very ancient origins, as you can note from the remains of pile dwelling settlements on the shores of the lake, which date back to 2000 BCE. The castle was built by the local lords, the Lantieri family, after the year 1000. It was almost fully dismantled in the early 16th century.

In addition to agriculture and fishing, the textile and sandstone quarrying industries also played an important role in the area.

After the railway was built in the 19th century, the town became the “terminal” for the barges that transported goods from the north of the lake to be loaded onto the Paratico-Palazzolo line.

EXCURSIONS AND LEISURE • A short walk will take you towards the ruins of the Lantieri castle, perched on a hilltop. Unfortunately it is not open to the public, nor can it be viewed from close-up. However, the Lantieri tower (14th century), surrounded by a cluster of medieval houses near the castle, is open to the public and includes a multimedia installation that illustrates the history of the town. History lovers may be interested to learn that Dante Alighieri is said to have stayed in the castle in 1311.

• The banks of the River Oglio are a great place for nature walks.

• Panoramic excursions in the hills will take you to the small Alpini church or the Prati del Belvedere, with breathtaking views over the surrounding area.

Public park and the Oselanda

62

INFO PARATICO Tourist Infopoint - IAT Lungolago Marconi, 2 c - 25049 Iseo (BS) Tel +39 030 980209 / +39 030 3748733 - Fax +39 030 981361 iat.iseo@provincia.brescia.it Tourist Infopoint - IAT BASSO SEBINO Via Tresanda, 1 - 24067 Sarnico (BG) Tel +39 035 910900 - Fax +39 035 4261334 info@prolocosarnico.it

TOWN HALL Via Risorgimento, 1 - 25030 Paratico (BS) Tel +39 035 924311 - Fax +39 035 924351

WEB www.comune.paratico.bs.it www.provincia.brescia.it/turismo www.iseolake.info

63

PISOGNE When you disembark, set off along the wide lakeside promenade that offers broad views over the water.

What better place to watch the sunset?

The blue waters become tinged with red.

Your visit to the old town starts in the square, home to the impressive 13th-century Torre del Vescovo or bishop’s tower, and continues towards the 18th-century parish church of Santa Maria Assunta, with an important organ.

This lively village, with its numerous shops, is a great place to explore, meandering in the maze of medieval lanes, walking the arcaded streets, looking out for stately mansions, studying the stone portals and balconies with wrought iron railings, and discovering the ancient gateways.

It is well worth visiting Via San Marco, Palazzo Fanzago (with its lovely decorated façade), and the squares Piazza Mercanti and Piazza Berlai (the fortified heart of Pisogne).

64

6

5

7

1 Torre del Vescovo VIA

4

S.

2 Porta Via Ortaglie (gate)

PIAZ V. PELZA LEGR INI

O RC MA

1

PIAZZA UMBERTO I

3 Palazzo Fanzago 9

4 Parish church 5 Public park

PIAZ MERCZA ATO

3 2

8

10 CORSO NAVE

CORRIER A

CORSO ZANAR DELLI

6 Santa Maria in Silvis 7 Santa Maria della Neve 8 Porta dei Monti (gate) 9 Porta Nuova (gate) 10 Piazza Berlai

There are a number of very old and rare trees in the public park, as well as lovely rose gardens, making it the perfect place to take a break before heading to the church of Santa Maria della Neve, with its 16th-century cycle of frescoes of Stories from the Life of Christ

by Romanino. The figures in his rudimentary, realistic paintings depict the faces, appearance and clothes of his contemporaries. Even today, centuries later, the dramatic Crucifixion (see p. 20), on the back wall of the church, will arouse strong emotions.

It is also worth visiting the church of Santa Maria in Silvis, with some interesting 15th-century frescoes.

65

PISOGNE BRIEF HISTORY Inhabited since prehistory, this village was an important trade centre in the Middle Ages due to its location between Valcamonica and Sebino. Almost destroyed in the 12th century during the wars between Bergamo and Brescia, the village was rebuilt with defensive walls and towers. The historic centre acquired its current appearance in the 18th century, when it was embellished with porticoes and lovely residential buildings. It was an important market place and economic centre, dominated by the iron and steel industry. The railway line came to Pisogne in 1907 and is still in operation today.

EXCURSIONS AND LEISURE • A walk along paths through the chestnut woods reaches the hamlet of Grignaghe (909 metres asl), with lovely views over the lake.

• A very demanding, all-day excursion takes you to the Corno dei Trentapassi (1,248 metres asl). All your efforts will be amply repaid by the breathtaking panorama from the top.

• Val Palot is easily accessible on foot, in a few hours, and its mountainscapes certainly make the trip worthwhile. The valley offers a number of hotels, restaurants and ski slopes.

S. Maria della Neve

66

INFO PISOGNE

Piazza Mercato and Torre del Vescovo

Tourism association - Pro Loco Lungolago Luigi Tempini, 4 - 25055 Pisogne (BS) Tel/Fax +39 0364 880517 - info@prolocopisogne.it Tourist Infopoint - IAT Lungolago Marconi, 2 c - 25049 Iseo (BS) Tel +39 030 980209 / +39 030 3748733 - Fax +39 030 981361 iat.iseo@provincia.brescia.it

TOWN HALL Via Vallecamonica, 2 - 25055 Pisogne (BS) Tel +39 0364 883011 - Fax +39 0364 8830240

WEB www.comune.pisogne.bs.it www.provincia.brescia.it/turismo www.prolocopisogne.it www.iseolake.info

67

PREDORE When you arrive from the lake, you’ll notice a large period villa (Villa Lanza) with a small roofed tower and extensive gardens to the left of the pier. You’ll also see the ruins of an ancient tower, which you’ll be able to observe more closely through the villa gates once you land. This is the Torre Foresti (13th-14th century) and is all that remains of the ancient fortifications. It has a unique characteristic, in that one side has collapsed, while the other half is still standing. Turning into Via Marconi you can appreciate the great beauty of this village.

The paved streets are lit by old-style lanterns, while many of the traditional-style houses have stone portals and are graced with flowers and gardens. Other dwellings are supported by arches that bridge the alleyways, some of which lead down to the lake. The austere façade of the former church of San Giovanni Battista looms over a small square. Via Muciano leads to a tiny harbour. You can now visit the imposing Sacro Cuore e San Giovanni Battista parish church, with a lovely 17th-century Madonna.

68

4

TILI GEN VIA PIAZZA V. VENETO VIA M UCIA

VIA SARNICO

NO

5 VIA NI CO MAR

RE

NT E

RI N

O

PIAZZA LOCATELLI

3

TO R

1

2

1 Church of San Giorgio

3 Roman villa

2 Torre Foresti

4 Parish church

5 Former church of San Giovanni B. (civic centre)

A bath house from a Roman villa from the first centuries after Christ was recently discovered and can be seen near the town hall. The adjacent antiquarium houses various finds, including capitals, coins and mosaics.

Making your way along the steep lanes, many including steps, you come to the other historic nucleus of Predore, on the hill where the castle once stood.

Meanwhile, Via Sarnico leads to a large marina, home to a number of swans. Next to the harbour are the former Italcementi employee lido facilities.

Continuing towards Sarnico, you come to the Romanesque church of San Giorgio and the Eurovil lido, with its swimming pool and beach.

69

PREDORE BRIEF HISTORY Predore’s climate and location are known to have been appreciated by the Romans, so much so that they built a villa on the shores of the lake. A fortified village grew up in the same spot during the Middle Ages, once overlooked by a castle on the hill above.

EXCURSIONS AND LEISURE • A pleasant walk leads to the sanctuary of the Madonna della Neve, which can be reached by climbing almost 300 steps.

There is a lovely panoramic view from the top.

• The excursion along the Sentiero del Corno path starts at the village and winds its way up the hillside, running parallel to the shores of the lake. You should aim to walk as far as the rock faces popular with free climbers.

Church of San Giorgio

70

Torre Foresti

INFO PREDORE Tourist Infopoint - IAT BASSO SEBINO Via Tresanda, 1 - 24067 Sarnico (BG) Tel +39 035 910900 - Fax +39 035 4261334 info@prolocosarnico.it

TOWN HALL Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 1 - 24060 Predore (BG) Tel +39 035 938032 - Fax +39 035 938715

WEB www.comune.predore.bg.it www.turismo.bergamo.it www.prolocosarnico.it www.iseolake.info

71

RIVA DI SOLTO The boat will drop you off on a lovely lakeside promenade with benches and planters. The nearby Via Porto features a number of stately buildings (including Palazzo Polini-Martinori), which face straight onto the lake, so must once have been accessed directly from the water.

If you take any of the numerous lanes, you can admire the walls of buildings dating to the 12th-14th centuries and are still inhabited today. Among the buildings you will notice steps, frescoes and small arches.

At the eastern end of the village is a medieval tower, almost directly opposite the fine faรงade of the 18th-century parish church of San Nicola, with paintings from various periods.

At the other end of the village, on the road that runs along the edge of the lake, is Palazzo Martinoni,

72

VIC. F

1

2

ONTEN

3

O

VIA PORTO

4

ORTO VIA P

1 Church of San Rocco

3 Palazzo Polini-Martinoni

2 Palazzo Martinoni

4 Medieval tower

5

5 Parish church

with its secluded lakeside garden.

The building stands next to an interesting, solid stone construction. After crossing a small stream, you come to a lovely tree-filled public park, just after the little church of San Rocco. The public beach, with coffee bars, ice cream parlours and a campsite, is nearby.

73

RIVA DI SOLTO BRIEF HISTORY Records of a fortified harbour, which acted as a trade centre for the valleys behind it, date back to the 12th century. It remained an important site until the early 20th century, when the coast road was built, linking Riva di Solto with Tavernola to the south and Lovere to the north. Tradition has it that the black marble used in some of the columns in St Mark’s basilica in Venice was quarried nearby.

EXCURSIONS AND LEISURE • A pleasant walk leads to the gorge known as the Orrido di Zorzino. After following the coast road towards Lovere for a kilometre or so, turn off along the old track that runs alongside a long, narrow beach. This leads to a secluded clearing between the rocks and the lake. After passing through two tunnels, you come to a quiet cove sheltered by the tall jagged rock faces that rise sheer out of the water.

• Another walk leads to Zorzino, a hamlet in a lovely panoramic spot. En route it is well worth a visit to the charming small Romanesque church of San Cassiano, in the Gargarino district.

• For an excursion that brings you into contact with nature, why not try the Sentiero Natura del Sebino, a nature trail winding its way through the woods, complete with picnic areas and info panels.

This is a 17-km loop and includes the towns of Solto Collina and Fonteno.

Palazzo Martinoni

74

The gorge called “Orrido di Zorzino” or “Bögn”

INFO RIVA DI SOLTO Tourist Infopoint - IAT ALTO SEBINO Piazza 13 Martiri, 37 - 24065 Lovere (BG) Tel +39 035 962178 - Fax +39 035 962178 info@iataltosebino.it

TOWN HALL Via Papa Giovanni XXIII, 22 - 24060 Riva di Solto (BG) Tel +39 035 985100 - Fax +39 035 980763

WEB www.rivadisolto.org www.turismo.bergamo.it www.iataltosebino.it www.iseolake.info

75

SALE MARASINO The façade of Villa Martinengo-Villagana, one of the most important Renaissance dwellings on Sebino, with rustic outbuildings and gardens, can only be seen clearly from the boat, about a kilometre south of the pier.

After alighting at the lakeside promenade in Sale, you’ll find you are opposite the imposing Baroque parish church of San Zenone, with its distinctive double flight of steps leading to the entrance. The interior is rich in frescoes, paintings and wooden statues.

Following Via Zirotti you find the small old centre with its historic dwellings and stately mansions, characteristic arcades, loggias, portals with coats of arms, and internal courtyards.

Some houses bridge the streets, while delightful little gardens open out onto the cobbled alleyways. There are also a few shops, cafeterias and trattorias.

Parish church of San Zenone

76

VIA BALZERINA VIA R O

1 Palazzo Giugni 2 Parish church

VIA ZIROTTI

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MA

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3 Former church of San Pietro dei Disciplini 4 Villa Martinengo-Villagana

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To reach Villa Martinengo-Villagana follow the portion of Via Roma to the right of the pier. Unfortunately, you can see little of the villa on land as it is not open to the public.

Nonetheless, the walk takes in a lot of other interesting sites, including charming lakeside terraces with benches, the former church of San Pietro dei Disciplini and the 18thcentury church of San Giovanni Battista (taking a detour into the Conche quarter).

Villa Martinengo-Villagana

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SALE MARASINO BRIEF HISTORY The town was formed by the union of two formerly independent communes: Sale, on the lake, and Marasino, a hillside settlement inhabited since Roman times.

The reclamation of the coastal marshes by the Benedictine monks in the Middle Ages created the conditions for the development of Sale in the 16th century, when numerous mansions were built here. In the past, the economy was driven by charcoal production and the wool industry, which reached its peak in the 19th century.

EXCURSIONS AND LEISURE • The hills around Sale Marasino form a large, pleasant basin down towards the lake and is perhaps the most attractive in the area. Various hamlets are dotted around, all worthy of a visit, including Massenzano, a small cluster of stone houses; Marasino, with a 15th-century parish church with interesting frescoes; Gandizzano, home to the 16th-century sanctuary of Santa Maria della Neve, also decorated with frescoes. The hillside hamlets are linked by the Via Valeriana, an ancient road that winds along the hillside, following a breathtakingly scenic route through meadows, vineyards and olive groves.

• If you’re interested in a more challenging excursion, why not climb up to Noasse, at 863 metres asl, and continue on to the Giaive springs or the Forcella del Sale pass, at 1,109 metres asl.

Via Valeriana and Santa Maria della Neve in Gandizzano

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INFO SALE MARASINO Tourist Infopoint - IAT Lungolago Marconi, 2 c - 25049 Iseo (BS) Tel +39 030 980209 / +39 030 3748733 - Fax +39 030 981361 iat.iseo@provincia.brescia.it

TOWN HALL Via Mazzini, 75 - 25057 Sale Marasino (BS) Tel +39 030 9820921 - Fax +39 030 9824104

WEB www.comune.sale-marasino.bs.it www.provincia.brescia.it/turismo www.rivieradegliulivi.bs.it www.iseolake.info

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SARNICO Arriving at Sarnico via the lake, you can admire Villa Faccanoni, a real Art Nouveau gem of the early 20th century, just a few hundred metres to the north of the pier. You’ll leave the boat at Lungolago Garibaldi, an elegant lakeside promenade that meets the cycle and footpath to the north (see p. 82). To the south it extends over the bridge that marks the border between Sebino and the River Oglio, then continues along the river, overlooked

by Piazza XX Settembre. Just beyond this is Villa Passeri, another Art Nouveau masterpiece. The streets and squares that face the lake are home to many coffee shops, ice cream parlours, meeting places, pizzerias and restaurants, often with outdoor seating, making this a perfect place to take a break. The semi-circular old centre, known as “La Contrada”, has quaint stone-paved streets, lanes, steps, Sarnico porphyry portals, small courtyards, picturesque balconies and wrought iron gates. It’s a lively place, home to antique dealers, jewellers, shops, coffee bars and pastry shops. Via Lantieri is the main street, but you can take

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a detour along the alleys that have some hidden treasures like the square with the church of San Paolo and the Clock Tower. The Gianni Bellini art gallery is just a short distance away. Following Via Buelli you come to the small 12th-century civic tower, the Torretta Civica, and the 18th-century parish church of San Martino with its imposing façade. The church has a fine altar and some interesting paintings. The small 18th-century church of San Rocco is next to the parish church.

Torretta Civica

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SARNICO BRIEF HISTORY Home to pile dwellings and Roman settlements, a fortified village formed here around a castle (no longer standing) during the Middle Ages. Once a fishing village, Sarnico owes part of its fame to the quarries formerly used to extract a local eponymous stone, used extensively in building. The silk industry also played a key role in the local economy, reaching its peak in the early 20th century. The prestigious Riva brand is a source of local pride, producing speedboats and yachts.

EXCURSIONS AND LEISURE • A lakeside cycle and footpath leads to the swimming area near the small church of Stella Maris. The path makes its way past Villa Surre, an exquisite example of Art Nouveau architecture, and extends all the way to the outskirts of Predore.

• Following Via Manzoni, which skirts the River Oglio, you come to the hamlet of Fosio, with its old buildings and the remains of a mill and dam across the river, which has been in operation since 1933.

• Following the Bergamo road, you’ll come to the small church of SS Nazario e Rocco, famous for its 11th-century Romanesque frescoes, and “La Rocchetta”, a sumptuous 18th-century palazzo.

• If you want to spend a few hours enjoying Nature, try a hike along the Forcella-Moler trail, which winds over the hill behind the town and offers panoramic views of the lake.

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Via Lantieri

INFO SARNICO Tourist Infopoint - IAT BASSO SEBINO Via Tresanda, 1 - 24067 Sarnico (BG) Tel +39 035 910900 - Fax +39 035 4261334 info@prolocosarnico.it

TOWN HALL Via Roma, 54 - 24067 Sarnico (BG) Tel +39 035 924111 - Fax +39 035 910577

WEB www.comune.sarnico.bg.it www.turismo.bergamo.it www.prolocosarnico.it www.iseolake.info iat.provincia.bergamo.it/reteiatbergamo

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SULZANO Arriving by boat you can admire the late 19th-century and early 20th-century stately villas overlooking the lake on either side of the oldest part of the town.

When you alight, you’ll be welcomed by a small public garden and a pretty marina.

There are also a number of shops and coffee bars in this area.

Following Via Cadorna to the left of the pier, you soon come to a large panoramic square but the most interesting stretch of the street is to the right of the pier, leading to the old town, with its quaint streetlights, dwellings that bridge the street, and stone portals.

Next to the tiny church of Sant’Elisabetta is a small opening onto the lake, where you can hear the lapping water and enjoy a view of Monte Isola.

Not far beyond is a picturesque harbour.

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1 Church of Sant’Elisabetta 2 Parish church

When you reach Via Battisti, you can turn down to the lake again along Vicolo Bertoletti or Via Scaramuzza, both with secluded panoramic spots.

On the way back, take a look at Via Molini, whose name commemorates the time when there were numerous mills (now almost all gone) powered by the water of a stream.

You can also admire the elegant façade and Baroque interior of the parish church of San Giorgio and the lovely pergola leading to the railway station.

To get back to Via Battisti and the boat, either follow Viale Pericoli or make your way down some steps.

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SULZANO BRIEF HISTORY The reclamation of the marshy coastal areas by the Benedictine monks created the conditions for the development of Sulzano. In fact, until the 15th century it was simply the harbour of the hillside village of Martignago. Lime production was the principal economic activity of the area in the 17th century, followed by the wool industry, which remained strong until the 19th century, when fishing net production began to develop.

In the second half of the 19th century, the arrival of the railway and the new coast road led to further development of the town.

EXCURSIONS AND LEISURE • There is a very short walk to the Petoi waterfall, which can be reached by following Via Tassano and then a footpath. The walk can be continued to the panoramic hamlets of Tassano and Martignago.

• A more demanding excursion leads along an old bridleway to Nistisino, where there are a number of restaurants. The walk becomes even more challenging if you continue to the sanctuary of Santa Maria del Giogo (968 metres asl), where you’ll be lucky enough to find another restaurant. The effort is fully repaid by the stunning panoramic view of Sebino.

Marina

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Via Cadorna

INFO SULZANO Tourist Office - Piazza 28 Maggio - 25058 Sulzano (BS) Tel +39 030 985088 - proloco.sulzano@invallecamonica.it Tourist Infopoint - IAT Lungolago Marconi, 2 c - 25049 Iseo (BS) Tel +39 030 980209 / +39 030 3748733 - Fax +39 030 981361 iat.iseo@provincia.brescia.it

TOWN HALL Via C. Battisti, 91 - 25058 Sulzano (BS) Tel +39 030 985141 - Fax +39 030 985473

WEB www.comune.sulzano.bs.it www.provincia.brescia.it/turismo www.rivieradegliulivi.bs.it www.iseolake.info

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TAVERNOLA B.SCA As you disembark from the boat you’ll see a pretty marina to your left, with some benches on the wharves. A raised walkway above the coast road forms an attractive balcony overlooking the harbour.

The town is dominated by the medieval Tower, which now acts as a parish belfry.

There are various coffee bars, ice cream parlours and restaurants in this area.

Walking along Via Roma in the direction of Sarnico, you come across Villa Fenaroli, built in the 16th century and later extended. Its park includes an attractive botanical garden. You can now take a long lakeside walk.

The Capuani villas, with their elegant combination of buildings and gardens, are situated to the right of the pier,

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after the mouth of the Rino stream.

After returning to the raised walkway on Via Roma, Via Torre leads us into the medieval village, where the harbour and other remains of the ancient fortifications can still be seen, as well as some elegant courtyards. You then come to the 18th-century parish church of Santa Maria Maddalena, with some interesting paintings, a fine wooden choir and its priceless Rosario altar. The steep, stone-paved footpath leading to the cemetery is very evocative. It takes just a few minutes to climb up to the small 13th-century church of San Pietro, where you can rest and enjoy the view over the lake.

The presbytery has a masterpiece by Romanino, painted in around 1512: the fresco of the Madonna Enthroned with Child, Saints and Patrons. The church also contains other interesting frescoes from the 15th and 16th centuries (please contact the parish church to arrange a visit).

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TAVERNOLA B.SCA BRIEF HISTORY Tavernola (from the Latin “tabernula”, a small tavern) can be traced back to Roman times. In the Middle Ages it appeared as a small fortified village and active trading post with an efficient lake transport service, it was the natural outlet to the Brescia plain for products from the hills behind.

EXCURSIONS AND LEISURE • A walk leads to Cambianica, an ancient medieval hamlet on a hill; here you’ll see the small Romanesque church of San Michele, with an elegant apse and frescoes inside and out; you can then go to the sanctuary of Cortinica and return towards the church of San Pietro and then the landing.

• Another pleasant walk leads to the hamlet of Gallinarga, a group of ancient houses, where you’ll find the interesting little church of San Giorgio; it’s a good idea to reach the hamlet along a hillside footpath and then Via Moia.

Continuing along the coastal road towards Sarnico, next to the tunnel entrance, you’ll see a geological rarity, the marmitta dei giganti, a pothole in the rock, carved and polished by the water over thousands of years.

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Medieval tower

INFO TAVERNOLA BERGAMASCA Tourist Infopoint - IAT BASSO SEBINO Via Tresanda, 1 - 24067 Sarnico (BG) Tel +39 035 910900 - Fax +39 035 4261334 info@prolocosarnico.it

TOWN HALL Via Roma, 44 - 24060 Tavernola Bergamasca (BG) Tel +39 035 931004 - Fax +39 035 932611

WEB www.comune.tavernola-bergamasca.bg.it www.turismo.bergamo.it www.prolocotavernola.it www.iseolake.info

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Navigazione Lago d’Iseo s.r.l.

Via Nazionale 16 24062 Costa Volpino (BG) - Italy tel. +39 035 971483 fax +39 035 972970 info@navigazionelagoiseo.it www.navigazionelagoiseo.it

ISBN 978-88-95781-71-6