Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa Q1 2021

Page 12

HAIR CARE

Minimalist hair masks – an evolution in formulation development

As technology progresses, it has become more possible to simplify formulations. To create simple conditioning emulsions, it’s no longer necessary to stock an excessive amount of ingredients and you no longer require heat, which wastes energy and increases your carbon footprint. Jacques Strydom, technical manager of personal care and home care at AECI Specialty Chemicals, explores simplified solutions to create pre- and post-hair treatment products.

P

RE- AND POST-SHAMPOO treatments in hair care are becoming perpetually

How a cationic polymer works to deliver conditioning benefits

more important as we learn more about

how hair chemistry works and, in particular, about how the needs of one hair type differ from another. However, there is one thing that all hair types have in common – the need for manageability, which is often achieved through some form of conditioning. We are also learning more about the role of the scalp in hair health – which is seeing more and more skin care ingredients introduced in hair care formulations to maintain a healthy scalp microbiome. The type of products that fall within this sphere of treatments include conditioners, hair masks, scalp scrubs and hair oil elixirs. Most of these treatments, especially hair masks, are based on emulsion technology. not to mention the large number of raw

creating cold process hair masks in minutes,

MODERN FOUR-IN-ONE INGREDIENTS

materials required to bring the product

using polymeric inverse emulsions.

The classic way of making emulsions involves

to life. Luckily, advancements in emulsion

emulsifying waxes and significant heating,

technology have led to the possibility of

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QUARTER 1 2021 // P&C AFRICA

These inverse emulsifiers act as four-in-one ingredients, in the sense that they emulsify,


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