Cleansing and moisturisation made easy

Cleansing and moisturisation made easy

Cold process, one pot raw materials save time, energy and resources in the production process. They also offer consistency in quality for every batch, due to the precision and stability polymers bring to a formulation. Jacques Strydom of ChemSystems discusses the benefits of polymer technologies in wash-off and leave-on systems.

There are various way to cleanse skin. Two popular methods are normally combined in a multifunctional exfoliating face or body wash for ultimate cleansing efficiency. This product type involves a surfactant base (normally Sodium Laureth Sulphate) to remove dirt and sebum, with abrasive particles suspended in the base. These particles could be synthetic wax spheres (historically plastic) or fine pieces of apricot kernel for example, which range in size and abrasiveness.

The trick with an exfoliating cleanser is to suspend the particles uniformly and with stability for the entirety of a product’s shelf life. Aesthetics are also just as important as stability and these products enjoy the inherent ability to display a visually appealing cleansing format. For this reason, a crystal clear liquid is preferred for the particles to properly stand out and entice potential consumers.

Using Aculyn Excel rheology modifier, available from ChemSystems, is an efficient and cost-effective way to achieve a crystal clear formulation with the required stability. Its ability to suspend particles over a wide pH range (from three to 11), is phenomenal and it’s capable of producing crystal clear gel washes.

Low pH washes, often called pH neutral, are becoming more popular. The claim ‘pH neutral’ refers to the pH of human skin, which is closer to 5.5. It used to be a challenge to make a crystal clear gel wash with good suspension properties at such a low pH, because suspension polymers are typically low in pH and need to be neutralised to swell and build viscosity. Aculyn Excel also requires neutralisation – yet the difference comes in after it has been neutralised to pH 8, where citric acid is used reduce the pH to the desired level of the application.

With Aculyn Excel rheology modifier you can also suspend bubbles for a refreshing and appealing visual effect. It enables the use of softer preservative packages, because it doesn’t lose

viscosity when certain emollients or penetration enhancers are added. It is broadly compatible with a large range of surfactants, ensuring versatility.

SKIN MOISTURISATION Creams with moisturisation benefits are made by heating a water phase and an emulsifying wax containing oil phase in two separate vessels.

Both phases are then combined under high shear. Not only does this require vast amounts of energy, but also a specialised homogeniser to ensure a smooth and stable emulsion is produced. This process also requires well-trained compounders and rigorous quality control to make sure there is consistency between batches.