SKIN CARE
Cleansing and moisturisation made easy
Cold process, one pot raw materials save time, energy and resources in the production process. They also offer consistency in quality for every batch, due to the precision and stability polymers bring to a formulation. Jacques Strydom of ChemSystems discusses the benefits of polymer technologies in wash-off and leave-on systems.
T
here are various ways to cleanse the skin. Two popular methods are normally combined in a multifunctional exfoliating face
or body wash for ultimate cleansing efficiency. This product type involves a surfactant base (normally Sodium Laureth Sulphate) to remove dirt and sebum, with abrasive particles suspended in the base. These particles could be synthetic wax spheres (historically plastic) or fine pieces of apricot kernel for example, which range in size and abrasiveness. The trick with an exfoliating cleanser is to suspend the particles uniformly and with stability for the entirety of a product’s shelf life. Aesthetics are also just as important as stability and these products enjoy the inherent ability to display a visually appealing cleansing format. For this reason, a crystal clear liquid is preferred for the particles to properly stand out and entice potential consumers. Aculyn Excel rheology modifier, available from ChemSystems, is an efficient and cost-effective way to achieve a crystal clear formulation with the required stability. Its ability to suspend particles over a wide pH range (from three to 11), is phenomenal and it’s capable of producing crystal clear gel washes.
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| QUARTER 3 2019 | P C Africa
Low pH washes, often called pH neutral,
viscosity when certain emollients or
are becoming more popular. The claim
penetration enhancers are added. It is
‘pH neutral’ refers to the pH of human
broadly compatible with a large range of
skin, which is closer to 5.5. It used to be a
surfactants, ensuring versatility.
challenge to make a crystal clear gel wash with good suspension properties at such
SKIN MOISTURISATION
a low pH, because suspension polymers
Creams with moisturisation benefits are
are typically low in pH and need to be
made by heating a water phase and an
neutralised to swell and build viscosity.
emulsifying wax containing oil phase in
Aculyn Excel also requires neutralisation
two separate vessels.
– yet the difference comes in after it has
Both phases are then combined
been neutralised to pH 8, where citric acid
under high shear. Not only does this
is used reduce the pH to the desired level
require vast amounts of energy, but also
of the application.
a specialised homogeniser to ensure a
With Aculyn Excel rheology modifier
smooth and stable emulsion is produced.
you can also suspend bubbles for a
This process also requires well-trained
refreshing and appealing visual effect.
compounders and rigorous quality
It enables the use of softer preservative
control to make sure there is consistency
packages, because it doesn’t lose
between batches.
