15 minute read
BEAUTY INNOVATIONS
Gentle, natural exfoliation to brighten skin
For dark skins, an even tone or bright complexion is often perceived as healthier than pigmented skin. Exfoliation is one way to counter hyperpigmentation as it helps the cell renewal process. Lipotec Active Ingredients has developed an active botanical ingredient that offers an effective yet mild way to exfoliate skin. By Alicia Gimenez, Olga Laporta, Elena Cañadas, Laia González and Raquel Delgado
While the melanin surplus in dark skins helps stave off wrinkles, studies have proven it doesn’t guard against hyperpigmentation. This is why more and more African consumers are incorporating exfoliation in their skin care regimes, to remove the pigmented cells that accumulate on the skin’s surface. Exfoliation also increases skin’s clarity and gives it a healthy looking glow.
One form of exfoliation is chemical peeling where acids are applied on the skin to reduce cohesion between the corneocytes. Suitable acids include alphahydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic or lactic acid, or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid. The main disadvantage of chemical peeling is skin irritation. Enzymatic exfoliation offers a gentler approach with minor risk of irritation. This process is based on the application of proteases that break cell to cell interactions and promote desquamation. Actizyme advanced botanical ingredient from Lipotec Active Ingredients, represented throughout southern Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, contains a fungi-derived protease that mimics a key epidermal protein in exfoliation. When applied to skin, it helps improve the complexion with a brightening effect.
TIGHT CONTROL
The endogenous enzymes responsible for
natural desquamation in the epidermis
are pH-dependent, so their activity varies
based on location. The epidermis exhibits
a pH gradient from about pH 7.4 at the
basal layer to around pH 5.5 at the stratum
corneum (SC) surface 1 .
In the deepest layers of the SC, serine proteases participate in the degradation of intercellular junctions as their optimal activity is at neutral pH2. In contrast,
Figure 1: Increases in L* and ITA⁰ values (vs initial time: † p<0.1)
cysteine and aspartic proteases are active in an acidic environment promoting desquamation in the most superficial SC.
Cathepsin D is an aspartic protease that is active at acidic pH between 3.5 and 5.0. It can break corneodesmosomes in the low pH environment of the SC surface, causing desquamation. However, in deeper layers (with a higher pH) it cannot degrade the junctions between cells as efficiently. The pH-activity profile and the location of this enzyme limit its activity specifically to the superficial layers of the SC.
MUSHROOM ENZYME Some organisms have been found to produce proteases that mimic skin’s natural enzymes, making them interesting candidates for topical exfoliants. Actizyme advanced botanical ingredient is a fungiderived protease that mimics cathepsin D, as it exhibits a pH activity profile very similar to that of the endogenous enzyme.
When formulated in an acidic buffer and applied on skin, the enzyme begins exfoliation. As the skin’s natural buffering capacity raises its pH, it reaches deeper layers of the SC and becomes inactive. Consequently, exfoliation is maintained specifically at the SC surface. This effective and controlled exfoliation produces little irritation and skin barrier disruption compared to AHAs. The brightening efficacy of this natural exfoliant has been tested on photoptye IV skins with notable results.
IRRITATION AND DAMAGE CONTROL The epidermis on the volar forearm of 10 volunteers (aged between 20 and 50) was stained with the fluorescent dye, dansyl chloride. Actizyme advanced botanical ingredient was applied twice a day. Removal of the stain was monitored daily using a UV light until complete elimination and changes in cell renewal were calculated in comparison to untreated skin (control).
Application of the active ingredient at one and five percent proved to increase cell turnover by 11.1 and 16.4% respectively, with these values being statistically significant (p<0.05). In order to confirm the absence of side effects, higher doses than as required for exfoliation were used and compared to the application of an AHA. Volunteers (aged between 35 and 65) applied 15 or 30% Actizyme advanced botanical ingredient, or eight percent lactic acid to half the face. After four weeks, the changes in the volunteers’ skin sensitivity to topical irritants or in the barrier function were assessed.
For skin redness, reactivity to Balsam of Peru, a known topical irritant, was determined before and after product use. Results showed the active ingredient produced little irritation compared to a lower concentration of lactic acid. To determine damage to barrier function, changes in the integrity of the skin barrier were assessed by measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL) with an evaporimeter. The application of increasing concentrations of Actizyme advanced botanical ingredient resulted in minimal changes in TEWL compared to lactic acid.
BOOSTING SKIN CLARITY A panel of 21 Indian volunteers (aged between 19 and 46) with skin phototype IV applied a cream containing two percent Actizyme GL advanced botanical ingredient twice a day for 30 days on half
Figure 2: High resolution photographs taken of a volunteer before (Day 0) and after (Day 30) the treatment
the face and a placebo cream on the other half.
Evaluation of skin luminance (L*) was performed using a spectrophotometer. In Figure 1, L* represents relative brightness of the skin. This was also used to calculate individual typological angle (ITA⁰) values, which show the degree of pigmentation. The results revealed an increase in L* and ITA⁰ – data associated with a brighter and less pigmented skin.
High resolution images of volunteers also showed changes in skin complexion (see Figure 2). A clearer skin complexion was unanimously perceived by volunteers. All of the subjects (100%) assigned the top two scores (agree and strongly agree) to the affirmations ‘visible lightening effect on skin’ and ‘face appeared more luminous’ in a self-evaluation questionnaire.
With its mechanism of action and efficacy proven in vivo, Actizyme
advanced botanical ingredient reconfirms the role of effective desquamation and epidermal renewal to achieve a radiant complexion. This fungi-derived enzyme mimics the activity profile of the endogenous protease cathepsin D and offers an effective method of exfoliation when applied with an acidic buffer, increasing the cell renewal rate in vivo. Yet the effect is mild, as it produces notably lower levels of sensitivity and barrier disruption compared to AHAs. After 30 days of product application, augmented clarity of facial skin was measured as increases in L* and ITA⁰.•
REFERENCES: 1. Schmid-Wendtner MH, Korting HC. The pH of the skin surface and its impact on the barrier function. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 19(6):296-302, 2006. 2. Caubet C, Jonca N, Brattsand M, Guerrin M, et al. Degradation of corneodesmosome proteins by two serine proteases of the kallikrein family, SCTE/KLK5/hK5 and SCCE/ KLK7/hK7. J. Invest. Dermatol. 122(5): 1235-1244 (2004).
Lipotec Active Ingredients – www.lipotec.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
As a rapidly growing company, o6 Agencies has made its mark and risen to success, firmly rooting itself in the Southern and Eastern African markets. In line with this growth, the company is rolling out a new corporate identity, which coincides with the launch of its new logo and website. By Abby Vorster
The people behind the success of o6 Agencies and Ross & Foxwell
O6 AGENCIES’ logo is its unique mark created to highlight the company’s corporate colours of green, white and black. The logo was carefully crafted to reflect the company’s core business. The green dot within the logo not only represents the o in ‘o6’ but also reflects that it is always online – available and connected. The visually designed number 6, which embraces the dot, stands bold and robust, confident in form. The fusion of these two concepts beautifully represents the core value of o6 Agencies, which is to connect in strength. The green colour symbolises energy, safety and growth. White symbolises purity and perfection, and black symbolises strength. Since inception, o6 Agencies’ core focus of supplying fragrances and flavours to manufacturers and brand owners has remained unchanged. “It has always been our focus to be a raw materials supplier and we’ve never lost sight of this,” says co-owner Adam Owen. “In 2018, we established the Ross & Foxwell division of the business to provide entrepreneurs with tools and training to grow sustainable businesses using direct selling. But this has not cannibalised our core supply business.”
AN EXPANDING DIVISION Ross & Foxwell now has over 2 000 active customers, based in 13 cities around South Africa, who buy any of its 410 locally stocked fragrances. Operating as a division of o6 Agencies, it offers a range of locally stocked fragrance oils for use in fine fragrances or perfumes, shower gels, body lotions, hair care products and deodorants in smaller pack sizes starting at 100g. It also holds a selection of perfume bottles, labels and ethanol and body lotion base, offering entrepreneurs in the direct-selling market almost everything they will need to either get their product off the ground or to expand their existing range or portfolio. As a result of its incredible success, Ross & Foxwell also has a new logo and a bigger team, with o6 Agencies having recently employed five young, new employees within the division.
“We are very focused on people, training and empowering individuals both within our company and among our customers. Between Ross & Foxwell and o6 Agencies, we have doubled our workforce,” adds Adam. “As a young, enthusiastic and driven company, we have built a reputation for having a super-fast turnaround on lead times and for offering world-class service.”
STREAMLINED PROCESSES Located in South Africa, in a business park in Gauteng with distribution hubs in KwaZulu-Natal and the Western Cape, o6 Agencies and Ross & Foxwell operate from two separate yet adjacent buildings. While this setup has worked perfectly well in the past, Adam and his father, Richard Owen, co-owner of o6 Agencies, have decided the time is right to streamline all operations through Kerridge, a leading ERP system, to allow the company to generate new opportunities for innovation and growth and stay ahead of the competition.
“The system has been implemented to support the growth of the business by focusing on stock control and more formalised processes, and ensuring customer service is never overlooked,” Richard says. “We have also diversified in terms of our ports of dispatch and shipping
TRACKING THE TRENDS
Passionate about Africa, o6 Agencies is a frontrunner in bringing relevant solutions based on global trends to the African market. Adam says self-expression, gender fluidity and non-conformity are some of the major drivers of the fragrance market, and the vibrancy of the raw materials used in today’s fragrance creations is wholly relevant to South Africa.
“We’re seeing the use of great fragrance notes that would work really well in locally developed products. Examples include bitter citrus, orange and grapefruit notes mixed with vivid accents of angelica florals. Sherbety sour notes of pimento berries are spiked with base notes of woods and resins to give fluidity to the fragrance,” he explains.
Brands will love this year’s fragrance trends from o6 Agencies, which celebrate the vibrancy and bright expressions of the African market with fruity, floral, sour, sparkly and bitter or burnt elements.
routes. Previously we had always shipped out of Rotterdam and are now shipping out of Istanbul too. Our customers are seeing the benefits of this globalised sourcing in many ways, including dramatic cost savings, reduced lead times and increased access to superior quality products.”
PASSIONATE ABOUT AFRICAN BRANDS By treating its clients as though they’re not only number one, but the only one, o6 Agencies has built a legacy of trust in offering fragrances and flavours that captivate the African market and ensure longevity and brand loyalty. This has allowed the company to widen its product range and fragrance offering for specific categories, servicing the FMCG, mass and premium markets. While it’s taken some time for the company to break into the FMCG market, purely because of the competitive nature of this business, o6 Agencies has done well to source and supply costeffective fragrances that perform well in various personal care applications without pushing the price point of the finished product. It’s also becoming a go-to supplier of flavours developed specifically for Africa, thanks to the support o6 Agencies receives from its international principal, which has appointed two dedicated scientists within its flavours lab to oversee the development of unique solutions tailored to the needs of the African market.
“Through our excitement and passion for the African market, we have become a people’s business,” says Adam. This is highly evident in its growing customer base of local celebrities, influencers and beauty entrepreneurs in particular, who are working with o6 Agencies to develop their own premium brands, perfectly suited to African consumers.
GROWING IN AFRICA In 2020, o6 Agencies will not only be redefining the senses, but also the market, through its improved focus, streamlined operations and energetic team.
“With our systems and process now fully streamlined in the back-end, we are shifting to a more customer-centric business model, allowing our team to create authentic connections through innovation, accessibility and differentiation,” says Adam. “Brands need to separate themselves from the competition, which is why we are focussing on being the supplier that is always available to make their products smell fantastic and taste beautiful.”
This focus of being more in front of customers in 2020 will soon filter through to o6 Agencies’ East African operations, which Richard says doubled in sales in 2019. “Kenya and Tanzania are two of our biggest markets in East Africa, which are increasingly looking to source raw materials from South Africa and are getting much better at manufacturing from a quality perspective. To capitalise on the immense opportunity for growth in East Africa, we plan to have the o6 Agencies’ product offering more readily available in the region, in more competitive pack sizes,” comments Richard. “This will be made possible through a Ross & Foxwell distribution hub in Kenya, which we’re hoping to set up later this year.” •
o6 Agencies – www.o6southafrica.com Ross & Foxwell – www.o6southafrica.com/ross-foxwell
www.o6southafrica.com
We keep an eye on changes in customer expectations, while watching global markets in order to anticipate the upcoming fragrance and taste trends. With an extensive and ever growing fragrance and taste offering, we're the preferred partner for what your product should taste or smell like.
EAST AFRICA: richard@o6southafrica.com SOUTH AFRICA: adam@o6southafrica.com & mcqueen@o6southafrica.com 011 234 8399
Bring a little bling to the bathroom
Consumers are faced with so much choice, not only in terms of the sheer number of products available but also where and how they shop. As a brand owner, you need to grab their attention instantly, whether it’s online or in store. Karen Maier, Merck’s head of performance materials for South Africa, shares some tips on how to bling up formulations.
Grabbing consumers’ attention is often easier said than done, though Merck’s extensive range of pearlescent effect pigments may provide a solution. By adding effect pigments, the entire spectrum of bath and body products can be enhanced, from rinse-off products such as shower gels or body washes to scrubs and shampoos.
Effect pigments can take a shower gel or body wash from ordinary to striking and impactful at really low addition rates, from as little as 0.005% and, just as importantly, with very little additional effort in the manufacturing process.
When faced with an overwhelming number of choices, a shopper often reaches for the most visually striking product. Pearlescent pigments can be used with great success to elevate a product’s appearance from drab to fab. Depending on the particle size of a pigment, the addition thereof can create effects ranging from a soft sheen, satiny lustre, seductive shimmer or stunning sparkle.
In addition to imparting an exceptional satin sheen, small scattering particles can improve coverage and hiding power, as well as mask slightly less attractive elements or raw materials in a base formulation. Pigments with a slightly bigger particle size of 10 to 60µm impart a lustrous pearl effect – giving a sense of luxury and opulence to any product and making it feel upmarket and decadent.
EFFECTS AND CLAIM SUPPORT By using pigments with more generous particle sizes (up to 200µm), formulators can achieve intensely sparkling effects, creating dazzling products, which demand the all-important second glance. Another advantage of big, sparkling pigments is they can be used as a replacement for glitter. In a society more aware of the evils of plastic, it’s imperative that brand owners are seen to be moving away from micro-plastics in their formulations. .
Effect pigments can support claims by underlining the promise with visual cues, for example ‘sparkling clean’ can be emphasised with a sparkling, silver-white pigment, or ‘refreshing’ with ice-blue effects such as Timiron Arctic Silver. An ‘aromatherapy’ claim can be underlined using a violet interference pigment in a lavender oil body wash. A sparkling copper pigment would work well in a shampoo targeting auburn hair – making the possibilities endless with sparkling pigments.
CERTIFICATIONS ARE IMPORTANT There are a few other aspects to bear in mind when catering for the modern consumer. Brands and manufacturers must ensure all ingredients and raw materials are ethically and responsibly sourced along with meeting the evergrowing need for Halal- and vegancertified material as well as organic and natural certification.
Many of the pigments in the Merck range have COSMOS certification and can support organic or natural claims, and the range of Halal- and vegan-certified pigments is constantly expanding.
SUSTAINABLE MICA SOURCING Merck is proud to be a founding member of the Responsible Mica Initiative. Merck’s head of surface solutions, Dorothea Wenzel, once again confirmed that the company has made a deliberate decision to source mica in India.
“In this way, we aim to contribute to sustainable mica sourcing and to improve the living conditions of the people in this region. This approach is also recommended by the UN and by leading NGOs like Terre des Hommes. Our suppliers contractually agreed to adhere to Merck’s Responsible Sourcing Principles, Code of Conduct and Human Rights Charter. We work together with relevant stakeholders, including leading NGOs and, as a founding member, with the Responsible Mica Initiative towards our common target of eradicating child labour in the region. In addition, for many years we have been driving initiatives to support the construction of schools and health centres in the mica mining region. With these initiatives, around 700 children have been able to receive a school education. Access to basic healthcare has been established for approximately 20 000 people,” says Wenzel.
