HAIR CARE

Waterless formulations for eco-friendly hair care

Water is set to become a precious commodity as consumption outstrips supply. The more consumers become aware of this, the more beauty brands will need to change how they manufacture and formulate products to limit their dependence on water.

Agrowing number of brands within the world of beauty and personal care are committing to developing waterless products that boast innovative formulas and help to preserve a precious resource. Waterless or powder-based products are said to be the future of hair care, considering that a conventional liquid shampoo tends to be made up of about 80% water.

Waterless beauty products are those that are free from water and instead formulated with botanical ingredients and oils, upping the potency and diminishing the need for preservatives and other unnecessary fillers.

In November 2019, IMCD, in collaboration with Nouryon, hosted a hair care seminar in Johannesburg, South Africa. The seminar content was centred on the Afro Ethnic market and sustainability to inspire customers to develop more sustainable and eco-friendly hair care products. One of the presentations focused on water use in hair care formulations. It demonstrated how brands can reduce their water usage in various ways, from the amount of water used during manufacturing and eliminating water from a formulation to limiting the amount of water needed when using finished products.

The move towards cosmetics with little or no water in the formulation is driven by the rationale that water is inactive. Removing water from a formulation provides more room for beneficial ingredients, such as botanicals and essential oils, offering consumers more value and more effective products.

WITHIN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY, WATER IS SET TO BECOME A PRECIOUS COMMODITY AS CONSUMPTION OUTSTRIPS SUPPLY

ANHYDROUS HAIR CARE PRODUCTS Mintel recently reported that within the beauty industry, water is set to become a precious commodity as consumption outstrips supply. In the hair care category, dry shampoos in a powder format allow formulators to reduce the virtual water used to produce a product and eliminate the water in the formula. They also reduce the consumer’s water consumption by introducing a longer period of time between shampooing.

TABLE 1: SCALP SOOTHING ANTI-FLAKE CREAM Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w New Phase NATRASORB BATH® Tapioca Starch 19% Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 78.90% Salicylic Acid Salicylic Acid 2.00% Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil 0.10% Total:100%

In this natural clean label formulation, soothing argan oil is combined with the mild anti-septic properties of tea tree oil and salicylic acid to gently eliminate a dry, flaky scalp. Nouryon’s Natrasorb Bath allows oils to be safely handled in the shower as a viscous cream and oils are delivered to the scalp either by gentle massage or when coming into contact with water. This releases a strong bloom of tea tree oil perfume with a soft after-feel.

Anhydrous formulas are also known as water-free. These can be oil-based formulas, oils and serums, fats-based cosmetics, powdered products, dry products, or solid bars.

DID YOU KNOW? Waterless formulations present many opportunities for innovation. African consumers are ready for waterless products, as long as they perform well and have great sensorial attributes. INNOVATIVE STARCH INGREDIENT

An ideal ingredient for waterless or anhydrous hair care

products is Natrasorb Bath from Nouryon. See Table 1 for the formulation guide for a Scalp Soothing Anti-Flake

Cream formulated with Natrasorb Bath. This ingredient, based on tapioca starch, is able to absorb and carry large quantities of oils and anhydrous liquids. It is

processed in a manner that creates unique ‘pockets’, which can carry the

oils essentially in a solid, powder form.

Natrasorb Bath starch is hydrophilic – once the starch comes into contact with water, it immediately dissolves, releasing loaded oils, fragrances and/or emulsifiers, dispersing them into the warm water. The starch itself provides a soft feel but does not settle or leave a film. Originally developed for bath and shower products, Natrasorb Bath can be formulated into a variety of textures, from powders

and pastes to mousses and creams,

depending on the oil load. It has also been modified to obtain a larger particle size with a high porosity which supports loading of high levels of oil fragrance. This perfume is then released either when a force is applied on the starch or when Natrasorb Bath comes into contact with water.

It is applicable to a variety of formulations where oil adsorbency and water solubility are required simultaneously. •

IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com

Protect your formulations with cosmetic preservatives from ISCA UK, proudly distributed in South Africa by Chempack Industries.

Chempack Industries | Contact: Linda Thieme | 083 600 0167 / 064 610 2736 | Email: linda@cpack.co.za | Website: www.cpack.co.za