BEAUTY INNOVATIONS
Gentle, natural exfoliation to brighten skin
For dark skins, an even tone or bright complexion is often perceived as healthier than pigmented skin. Exfoliation is one way to counter hyperpigmentation as it helps the cell renewal process. Lipotec Active Ingredients has developed an active botanical ingredient that offers an effective yet mild way to exfoliate skin. By Alicia Gimenez, Olga Laporta, Elena Cañadas, Laia González and Raquel Delgado
W
hile the melanin surplus in dark skins helps stave
Figure 1: Increases in L* and ITA⁰ values (vs initial time: † p<0.1)
off wrinkles, studies have proven it doesn’t guard
against hyperpigmentation. This is why more and more African consumers are incorporating exfoliation in their skin care regimes, to remove the pigmented cells that accumulate on the skin’s surface. Exfoliation also increases skin’s clarity and gives it a healthy looking glow. One form of exfoliation is chemical peeling where acids are applied on the skin to reduce cohesion between the
cysteine and aspartic proteases are active
compared to AHAs. The brightening
corneocytes. Suitable acids include alpha-
in an acidic environment promoting
efficacy of this natural exfoliant has
hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic or
desquamation in the most superficial SC.
been tested on photoptye IV skins with
lactic acid, or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)
Cathepsin D is an aspartic protease that
notable results.
like salicylic acid. The main disadvantage
is active at acidic pH between 3.5 and 5.0.
of chemical peeling is skin irritation.
It can break corneodesmosomes in the low
Enzymatic exfoliation offers a gentler
pH environment of the SC surface, causing
IRRITATION AND DAMAGE CONTROL
approach with minor risk of irritation.
desquamation. However, in deeper layers
The epidermis on the volar forearm of 10
This process is based on the application
(with a higher pH) it cannot degrade the
volunteers (aged between 20 and 50) was
of proteases that break cell to cell
junctions between cells as efficiently. The
stained with the fluorescent dye, dansyl
interactions and promote desquamation.
pH-activity profile and the location of this
chloride. Actizyme advanced botanical
enzyme limit its activity specifically to the
ingredient was applied twice a day.
superficial layers of the SC.
Removal of the stain was monitored daily
Actizyme advanced botanical ingredient from Lipotec Active Ingredients,
using a UV light until complete elimination
represented throughout southern Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, contains
MUSHROOM ENZYME
and changes in cell renewal were
a fungi-derived protease that mimics
Some organisms have been found to
calculated in comparison to untreated
a key epidermal protein in exfoliation.
produce proteases that mimic skin’s
skin (control).
When applied to skin, it helps improve the
natural enzymes, making them interesting
Application of the active ingredient at
candidates for topical exfoliants. Actizyme
one and five percent proved to increase
advanced botanical ingredient is a fungi-
cell turnover by 11.1 and 16.4% respectively,
TIGHT CONTROL
derived protease that mimics cathepsin D,
with these values being statistically
The endogenous enzymes responsible for
as it exhibits a pH activity profile very similar
significant (p<0.05). In order to confirm
natural desquamation in the epidermis
to that of the endogenous enzyme.
the absence of side effects, higher doses
complexion with a brightening effect.
than as required for exfoliation were used
are pH-dependent, so their activity varies
When formulated in an acidic buffer
based on location. The epidermis exhibits
and applied on skin, the enzyme begins
and compared to the application of an
a pH gradient from about pH 7.4 at the
exfoliation. As the skin’s natural buffering
AHA. Volunteers (aged between 35 and
basal layer to around pH 5.5 at the stratum
capacity raises its pH, it reaches deeper
65) applied 15 or 30% Actizyme advanced
corneum (SC) surface .
layers of the SC and becomes inactive.
botanical ingredient, or eight percent
Consequently, exfoliation is maintained
lactic acid to half the face. After four
proteases participate in the degradation
specifically at the SC surface. This effective
weeks, the changes in the volunteers’ skin
of intercellular junctions as their optimal
and controlled exfoliation produces
sensitivity to topical irritants or in the barrier
activity is at neutral pH2. In contrast,
little irritation and skin barrier disruption
function were assessed.
1
In the deepest layers of the SC, serine
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| QUARTER 1 2020 | P C Africa
