PERSONAL CARE
Amino acid based chemistries in skin cleansing In the last 20 years, therapeutically orientated cosmetics have grown enormously. Products that claim to reduce the visible signs of skin ageing include those containing free amino acids such as alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, tryptophan, threonine and serine. Contrary to popular belief, these chemistries also play an important role in skin cleansing preparations.
A
mino acid is the collective
name, Amisoft ECS-22SB, with a nominal
term for compounds having
active matter content of 30.0 percent.
AMILITE GCS-12K
both an amino group and
Amisoft ECS-22SB is a weakly acidic,
a carboxyl group within the
anionic surfactant with a pH very similar
offered by Ajinomoto, which has enormous
same molecule. Alpha-amino acids are very
to skin’s natural pH. As such, it’s very mild
potential in the skin cleansing category, is Sodium
important constituents of proteins found in
with a high degree of skin compatibility,
N-Cocoyl Glycinate (INCI Name: Sodium Cocoyl
the human body, including skin.
making it useful for the development of
Glycinate). This surfactant is marketed under the
gentle cleansing preparations that have
trade name Amilite GCS-12K and its material is
ingredients is commonly encountered in
excellent conditioning effects on the skin,
based on glycine – the main constituent amino
leave-on treatment skin care products,
leaving a moisturised feeling without the
acid of human collagen – and coconut fatty acid.
relatively rarely are amino acid-based
sense of dryness or tautness. The chemistry
Amilite GCS-12K characteristically produces a
chemistries found in skin cleansing products.
of Amisoft ECS-22SB allows for it to be
creamy and resilient foam under neutral and
In cleansing applications, the idealistic goal
formulated over a wide variety of pH values,
alkaline conditions and leaves a pleasant and fresh
is to create a perceptively superior product
without affecting performance, even in the
feeling on the skin after use.
that effectively cleanses the skin, whilst
weakly acidic range.
Whilst the use of amino acid containing
ANOTHER ANIONIC, AMINO acid based surfactant
offering mildness and minimal disruption of the skin’s natural lipid barrier function. The
MILD AND ECO-FRIENDLY
12K, offer the formulator an opportunity
inherent compatibility between the skin and
Given its very mild profile on skin, Amisoft
to develop unique skin cleansing
the chemical structure of amino acid-based
ECS-22SB possesses excellent foaming
preparations, the properties of which cannot
surfactants makes the formulation of such
properties superior to those of Sodium
be easily matched by other surfactant
cleansing products feasible, invariably with
Laureth Sulphate, making it an excellent
chemistries. The highly performant foaming
some very pleasing consumer experiences
choice for use as the primary surfactant
characteristics of these materials, combined
and outcomes.
in products destined for the increasingly
with their mildness and skin compatibility
popular sulphate free category. In cases
make them an automatic choice for
GENTLE ANIONIC SURFACTANT
where sulphate free claims are not required,
products aimed at the discriminating and
A company that specialises in the supply
Amisoft ECS-22SB can be added as a co-
well informed consumer.
of amino acid based surfactants is
surfactant to detergent systems containing
Because these amino acid based
Ajinomoto OmniChem, represented in
Sodium Laureth Sulphate to improve
surfactants are eco-friendly, environmentally
southern Africa by Maccallum. One of the
mildness on the skin, without compromising
sustainable and, in the case of Amisoft
most important groups of anionic, amino
foam texture and volume.
ECS-22SB, Ecocert approved, formulators
acid based surfactants are the N-Alkoyl-L-
Amisoft ECS-22SB is an ideal choice for
have further compelling reasons to use
Glutamates. A particularly useful derivative
skin cleansing products positioned as green
these products. This is particularly true when
is N-Cocoyl-L-Glutamate, frequently
or environmentally sustainable, as it is readily
developing products targeted at the rapidly
offered as either sodium, potassium or
biodegradable, eco-friendly and Ecocert
growing consumer group, which is eco-
triethanolamine salts.
approved, with an Environmental Working
conscious, ingredient savvy and generally
Group or EWG rating of 1.
very aware of clean label formulations. •
Ajinomoto offers Sodium N-CocoylL-Glutamate (INCI Name: Disodium produced from l-glutamic acid and
A ROUTE TO FORMULATION INNOVATION
plant derived coconut fatty acid. It is
It’s clear amino acid based surfactants,
commercially available under the trade
such as Amisoft ECS-22SB and Amilite GCS-
Cocoyl Glutamate), an anionic surfactant
22
| QUARTER 4 2019 | P C Africa
Ajinomoto OmniChem – www.ajiaminoscience.eu Maccallum – www.maccallum.co.za
