Amino acid based chemistries in skin cleansing

Amino acid is the collective term for compounds having both an amino group and a carboxyl group within the same molecule. Alpha-amino acids are very important constituents of proteins found in the human body, including skin.

Whilst the use of amino acid containing ingredients is commonly encountered in leave-on treatment skin care products, relatively rarely are amino acid-based chemistries found in skin cleansing products. In cleansing applications, the idealistic goal is to create a perceptively superior product that effectively cleanses the skin, whilst offering mildness and minimal disruption of the skin’s natural lipid barrier function. The inherent compatibility between the skin and the chemical structure of amino acid-based surfactants makes the formulation of such cleansing products feasible, invariably with some very pleasing consumer experiences and outcomes.

GENTLE ANIONIC SURFACTANT

A company that specialises in the supply of amino acid based surfactants is Ajinomoto OmniChem, represented in southern Africa by Maccallum. One of the most important groups of anionic, amino acid based surfactants are the N-Alkoyl-LGlutamates. A particularly useful derivative is N-Cocoyl-L-Glutamate, frequently offered as either sodium, potassium or triethanolamine salts.

Ajinomoto offers Sodium N-CocoylL-Glutamate (INCI Name: Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate), an anionic surfactant produced from l-glutamic acid and plant derived coconut fatty acid. It is commercially available under the trade name, Amisoft ECS-22SB, with a nominal active matter content of 30.0 percent.

Amisoft ECS-22SB is a weakly acidic, anionic surfactant with a pH very similar to skin’s natural pH. As such, it’s very mild with a high degree of skin compatibility, making it useful for the development of gentle cleansing preparations that have excellent conditioning effects on the skin, leaving a moisturised feeling without the sense of dryness or tautness. The chemistry of Amisoft ECS-22SB allows for it to be formulated over a wide variety of pH values, without affecting performance, even in the weakly acidic range.

MILD AND ECO-FRIENDLY

Given its very mild profile on skin, Amisoft ECS-22SB possesses excellent foaming properties superior to those of Sodium Laureth Sulphate, making it an excellent choice for use as the primary surfactant in products destined for the increasingly popular sulphate free category. In cases where sulphate free claims are not required, Amisoft ECS-22SB can be added as a cosurfactant to detergent systems containing Sodium Laureth Sulphate to improve mildness on the skin, without compromising foam texture and volume.

Amisoft ECS-22SB is an ideal choice for skin cleansing products positioned as green or environmentally sustainable, as it is readily biodegradable, eco-friendly and Ecocert approved, with an Environmental Working Group or EWG rating of 1.

A ROUTE TO FORMULATION INNOVATION

It’s clear amino acid based surfactants, such as Amisoft ECS-22SB and Amilite GCS 12K, offer the formulator an opportunity to develop unique skin cleansing preparations, the properties of which cannot be easily matched by other surfactant chemistries. The highly performant foaming characteristics of these materials, combined with their mildness and skin compatibility make them an automatic choice for products aimed at the discriminating and well informed consumer.

Because these amino acid based surfactants are eco-friendly, environmentally sustainable and, in the case of Amisoft ECS-22SB, Ecocert approved, formulators have further compelling reasons to use these products. This is particularly true when developing products targeted at the rapidly growing consumer group, which is ecoconscious, ingredient savvy and generally very aware of clean label formulations.