Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa Q4 2021 by New Media B2B

AFRICA Quarter 4 | Volume 6 | 2021

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HOW INDIE BEAUTY BRANDS

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AFRICA Quarter 4 | Volume 6 | 2021

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PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

CONTENTS Adressing sustainability in the ingredients supply chain

6 NEWS

Cipla to produce COVID-19 anti-viral drug molnupiravir in SA

Kensing appoints Azelis as a strategic distribution partner

Mibelle presents new study results on existing ingredients

8 EVENTS

Beauty industry reunites at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day

21 PACKAGING

Specialised interactive labelling solutions from Siyakha

TracePack presents anticounterfeiting offerings for pharma

Modern inspection technology for GMP-compliant labelling

26 FRUGAL INNOVATION

10 PERSONAL CARE

IMCD addresses sustainability in the supply chain

Indie beauty tips to meet consumers’ needs post-COVID-19

AECI Specialty Chemicals explores the beauty of inverse emulsions

Rambutan programme highlights the potential of frugal innovation

30 INDUSTRY TALK

14 ETHNIC CARE

Symrise pairs brightening ingredients for superior results

LipoTrue introduces Joybliss for plump, luminous skin

BASF’s Care Creations establishes an evaluation lab in Nigeria

North Africa Economic Outlook released by African Development Bank

Solutions to protect pharmaceutical packaging

Rambutan programme highlights the potential of frugal innovation P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2021

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

FROM THE EDITOR

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti Sub-editor: Katrien Smit Contributors: Pascal Yvon, Anele Ntuli, Amélie Rousseau, Dr Joachim Hans, Marine Lochouarn, Jacques Strydom ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za

Sustainability and transparency matter in 2022

ow – what a year 2021 has been!

We also spoke to BASF’s Osarenren Igbinoba,

In South Africa, we entered the

regional business management for personal care,

fourth wave of the pandemic

sub-Saharan Africa, about the company’s new

a couple of weeks ago and are

state-of-the-art evaluation salon in Lagos, Nigeria

Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com

heading into the festive season with speculation of

and the emerging opportunities in product tailoring

Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk

increased lockdown levels.

for the West African market. Check out page 18 for

CIRCULATION

Our team has continued to work remotely throughout 2021 and has consistently produced an

more on this. Labelling and product protection solutions come

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

excellent quality magazine for each of our quarterly

under the spotlight in our packaging feature. Turn to

editions of P&C Review Africa. This is our final

PUBLISHING TEAM

page 21 to find out more about the specialised and

General Manager: Dev Naidoo

edition for the year, and it’s another good one.

engaging labelling solutions from Siyakha Imperial

Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman

Printing Company and TracePack’s latest equipment

Art Director: David Kyslinger

edition to promote the group’s strong sustainability

that offers high-speed, tamper-evident label

policies. Demands for sustainable and ethically

application on pharmaceutical packaging.

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

IMCD is featured on the cover of our December

sourced products are increasing. In response, IMCD

With this unprecedented year finally coming to

New Media Publishing, Ground floor 272 Pretoria Avenue, Randburg Tel: +27 11 713 9000 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg 2146

is reshaping its product portfolio and optimising

an end – it’s only fitting to wish our advertisers and

operations to minimise its impact on the planet.

readers well for the festive season.

Turn to page 10 to read more about IMCD’s efforts

Thank you, from the team

to simplify supply chains on a local and global

and me, for your continued

scale, which in turn enhances process efficiency,

support. We hope you have a

improves resource usage and leads to reductions

good holiday, prosperous

in carbon emissions, energy consumption and

New Year, and continue

MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb

waste generation.

to stay safe.

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis

Sticking with the sustainability and transparency themes, Croda is also featured in this edition. This

Enjoy the read!

producer of personal care ingredients provides

Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd. MANAGEMENT TEAM

BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone

expert advice on how indie beauty brands may gain

CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson

consumers’ trust in a post-COVID-era by being

HEAD OFFICE

value driven and offering tangible proof of their

New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd

commitments. Turn to page 12 to read the article.

8th floor, Media24 Centre, 40 Heerengracht Cape Town, 8001 Tel: +27 21 406 2002

ADVERTISERS’ INDEX AECI Specialty Chemicals..............................27........................www.aeciworld.com/ specialty-chemicals Botanichem .....................................................29.......................www.botanichem.co.za Croda SA .........................................................IFC........................www.sederma.com Fette Compacting........................................OBC........................www.fette-compacting.cn IMCD SA ........................................................ OFC........................www.imcdgroup.com LipoTrue.............................................................17 .......................www.lipotrue.com Mitas Corporation ...........................................23.......................www.tracepack.co.za Siyakha Imperial Printing Co...........................21........................www.labelprint.co.za Symrise SA ........................................................15........................www.symrise.com Vega Controls SA ..............................................5.......................www.vega.com/vegapoint

Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa is published by New Media four times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review Africa is printed by Tandym.

QUARTER 4 2021 // P&C AFRICA

We bring colour into view! Compact capacitive level switches with 360° custom-colour status display

256 colours Individually selectable: Measurement in progress Sensor switching Process malfunction

15 cm

Compact design

Hygienic adapter system

Adjustment via smartphone

www.vega.com/vegapoint

NEWS

Cipla to produce COVID-19 anti-viral drug molnupiravir in SA CIPLA MEDPRO SOUTH Africa (Cipla Medpro), a wholly-owned

subsidiary of Cipla Limited (Cipla), and South Africa’s third largest pharmaceutical company in the private sector, will be launching the COVID anti-viral medicine, molnupiravir, in South Africa. This medication is for the treatment of mild-to-moderate COVID-19 in adults. As part of its ethos of “Caring for Life”, Cipla is once again championing equitable access to medication, much like it did during the height of the HIV pandemic, when it made life-saving antiretrovirals available at less than $1 per day compared to over $12 000 per patient, per year prevailing. In line with its “Africa for Africa” strategy, Cipla is focused on supporting supply thanks to large-scale WHO- and SAHPRA-approved local manufacturing at its facilities in South Africa and Uganda. Cipla also has a solid distribution chain in place to ensure that treatment can reach pharmacies and COVID-19 treatment centres across the country as quickly and efficiently as possible. Cipla will expand supply to several sub-Saharan African countries including Kenya, Uganda and Mauritius, and is exploring possibilities to export the medicine to other markets. CEO of Cipla South Africa, Paul Miller, says: “Our mission has always been to remedy the disparity in access to high-quality, life-saving medicine, as we see a future where good health is expected not for the few but for everyone. This need is more prevalent than ever during the pandemic. This launch is a testament to our continued commitment to help find a solution in the fight against this unprecedented global pandemic. We will work closely will all the relevant stakeholders to ensure that we can make this solution available in the local market as soon as possible.” Cipla has a non-exclusive voluntary licensing agreement with the originator to manufacture and supply molnupiravir and is currently pursuing regulatory approvals to ensure equitable access. Molnupiravir is an oral anti-viral that inhibits the replication of multiple ribonucleic acid (RNA) viruses including SARS-CoV-2. The drug is used for the treatment of non-hospitalized patients with confirmed COVID-19 globally. •

Kensing appoints Azelis as a strategic distribution partner KENSING and Azelis have signed an agreement for the distribution of Kensing’s vegetable-oil-based vitamins and phytosterols coviox, covitol, copherol and generol in the food and health, nutrition, and personal care markets throughout Europe, the Middle East and Africa. Both companies share a focus on technical service, reliability and consistency toward customers, based on expert knowledge in business support. The two companies also share a philosophy of sustainable development, transparency and constructive collaboration. Kensing’s sustainable development approach consists of developing, sourcing and sustainably biorefining a large range of high-natural index ingredients. Earlier this year, Azelis was awarded Platinum rating by EcoVadis, placing the company in the top 1% of all surveyed companies. Serge Rogasik, CEO Kensing, comments: “Kensing is a worldleading manufacturer of high-purity natural vitamin E and derivatives. We are laser-focused on food, health and personal care and our goal is to rapidly accelerate our development on a global basis. Our covi-ox, covitol, copherol and generol products are world renown for their quality and purity, and Azelis’ capabilities are a great fit, allowing us to expand our presence in Europe, one of the most demanding markets in the industry.” Anna Bertona, CEO and President of EMEA Azelis, adds: “We are thrilled to establish this new partnership with Kensing. Their vegetable-oil-based product lines complement our existing portfolio perfectly, and further strengthen our presence in Europe, the Middle East and Africa. This new agreement is a testament to our operational excellence, and our industry-leading technical skills. Next to this, our organisations are like-minded in terms of transparency, a commitment to sustainability and the importance of a hands-on approach. We look forward to seeing the success derived from this partnership.” •

QUARTER 4 2021 // P&C AFRICA

NEWS

Mibelle presents new study results on existing ingredients MIBELLE BIOCHEMISTRY (MIBELLE) has announced new clinical study results for some of its existing cosmetic ingredients. These results were introduced through a new digital format, which allows to better engage with the global distributor network – the Mibelle Biochemistry news forum. Streamed live from Buchs, Switzerland, this new format follows the digital communication strategy and allows for streamlined distribution of

weeks, scalp redness was reduced by 32.4%

updates about innovations and scientific insights.

and scalp itching was reduced by 64.3%.

The new study results communicated address

nails. It was shown to increase nail thickness, leading to stronger and more beautiful nails. • PhytoCellTec Goji is based on a plant

• InfraGuard combines tara tannins, a

scalp redness/irritation, 5G-Irradiation, nail

powerful antioxidant, with organic sunflower

stem cell culture of a goji seedling, which

strengthening/thickness and breast lifting. They

sprouts. Latest clinical study results confirm

vitalises mesenchymal stem cells to ensure

concern the following cosmetic ingredients:

that InfraGuard reduces 5G-induced free

an improved V-shaped face. Recently also

radical formation and inflammation.

clinically proven is its breast-lifting ability. The

• Alpine Rose Active, a purified extract of organic alpine rose leaves, rejuvenates the skin through

• KeraGuard offers powerful protection and

new study results confirm an improvement

the novel anti-ageing concept of senolytics.

repair for hair and nails. In different studies

Recent clinical studies have shown that Alpine

utilising state-of-the-art technologies,

Rose Active also improves scalp condition by

KeraGuard revealed a capacity to not only

Mibelle is represented throughout Southern Africa

soothing red and irritated scalps. After four

protect hair against free radicals but also

by Carst & Walker. •

in breast lifting, a reduction of breast sagging and a general improvement of skin elasticity.

New sustainable packaging alternative for e-commerce HEXCELPACK, A DEVELOPER of eco-friendly,

angles. This method makes the

paper-based protective cushioning solutions

paper “flex”, expanding its volume

to replace bubble packaging and other plastic

while maximising the strength and

or foam-based materials, has introduced

stiffness of its fibres. The result is a

Hexcel’ope, an innovative, 100% paper-based

superior cushion proven to outperform

protective mailer.

environmentally harmful protection

Developed as a cost-effective and sustainable alternative to the traditional plastic

alternatives, particularly plastic-based bubble mailers.

bubble mailers commonly used throughout the

The Hexcel’ope is patented in the

e-commerce supply chain, Hexcel’ope is curb-

USA with pending patents worldwide

side recyclable and fully biodegradable.

and is available in custom one-color

Lightweight, durable and easy to use, Hexcel’ope mailers are designed with

Hexcel’ope is an innovative, 100% paper-based protective mailer for e-commerce. It is both recyclable and fully biodegradable

black print. Economical yet effective, Hexcel’ope

HexcelPack’s proprietary slit paper technology

mailers are strong and durable,

for ultimate cushioning and maximum

offering the superior cushioning and

protection of product during transport.

product protection needed for shipping

lightweight, offering postage savings when a

fragile items and reducing product damage.

shipping box is not necessary.

The process converts extensible paper into a three-dimensional, patented cushioning product by making precise cuts at

Completely paper-based, Hexcel’ope

increased at an incredibly rapid pace, so

Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC)

has demand for sustainable yet protective

Canadian Paper for exemplary sustainability

packaging solutions from both brand owners

and little to no impact on the environment

and consumers,” says Lorne Herszkowicz,

– all while delivering protection proven

partner at HexcelPack. “With Hexcel’ope, it

to outperform plastic bubble mailers.

was our goal to design a functional, highly

Unlike single-use plastic bubble mailers,

protective, yet simple solution to meet the

the paper used to produce Hexcel’ope

needs of the e-commerce industry - one

mailers is fully curb-side recyclable and specific

“As e-commerce shipping volumes have

mailers are made of 100% Program for the

biodegradable. Additionally, Hexcel’ope is

we firmly believe to be the most innovative mailer on the market.” •

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2021

EVENTS

Beauty industry reunites at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day On 10 and 11 November, the international beauty and personal care product development community came together at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York, USA for the NYSCC Suppliers’ Day.

RGANISED BY THE New York Society

The Presentation Theater

of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC), the

sessions focused on green

suppliers’ day was attended by 6 800

beauty, sustainability and

registered delegates, who explored 7 000m2 of

certification, and the global

exhibition space to meet with over 380 exhibitors.

beauty marketplace. And

This engagement will continue over the coming

dozens of students from

month with the Suppliers’ Day Virtual Month of

various North American

Beauty, which is still capturing new registrants

colleges were hosted for the

since its kick-off on 12 November.

Future Chemists Workshop.

“Exhibitors and attendees alike were energised

The Digital Age of Beauty

by the look, feel and size of the show; the number

returned with presentations

of people who attended; and the high quality

on trends, predictive analytics,

of attendees,” said Susanna Fernandes, chair,

modelling and a look at the

NYSCC. “Every inch of the show reverberated

“digital” buying process.

our theme of ‘Embracing Beauty and Celebrating

Fragrance also made a

What We Create’!”

comeback as The Invisible Art

The event and awards ceremony provided a safe environment for us to get back to business and network

with all the essential players

With the easing of travel restrictions

Bringing the beauty and personal care industry together, the return of NYSCC Suppliers’ Day since the start of the pandemic has highlighted the importance of face-to-face events

involved in the development of this category. “As president of SCC it was a thrill to witness

in this category. Bossing Up, an association that spotlights black-owned beauty business from

and be a part of a live suppliers’ day. The energy

NYC neighbourhoods and communities, also

and buzz in the exhibition hall were exhilarating,

participated with Bree & Milly, Exuding Wellness,

which underscores the importance of face-to-

Just Because Hair NYC, Lovely Leo Skincare and

face events for discovering new innovations and

MaDawes hair products. The inaugural People’s

business-building,” said Liz Streland, 2021 national

Choice Award winner was Skin Moderne, a brand

president, Society of Cosmetic Chemists and senior

that has been relentless in the pursuit of clean,

account manager, Nagase Specialty Materials.

effective skin care and technology.

participants from Australia, France, Italy, the

HONOURING AWARD WINNERS

2022 PLANNING IN MOTION

United Kingdom, and several countries in Africa,

The NYSCC Education & Awards Night took place

Plans are already underway for the 2022 NYSCC

Asia and South America we able to attend.

on 10 November, showcasing the CEW Beauty

Suppliers’ Day with more than 70% exhibitors

Creator’s Award for Ingredients and Formulation

confirming their participation. The show will

of producing a high-quality face-to-face event

finalists, as well as the judges who represented

return to the Javits Center and its traditional

for the industry despite the many obstacles still

iconic brands such as Chanel, Estee Lauder,

timeframe of 3 and 4 May.

in place due to COVID-19. Our engagement with

Glossier, H2O and BeautyStat. The winner was

attendees and leads from the event exceeded our

Granpowder BBP-700 from Grant Industries, which

industry and media partnerships while

expectations. The event and awards ceremony

was honoured again during the full CEW Beauty

working closely with its members and the

provided a safe environment for us to get back to

Creator Awards Virtual Programme on 1 December.

SCC to create the best global ingredients

commencing in November, international

“NYSCC Suppliers’ Day delivered on its promise

“NYSCC will continue to strengthen its

event – for the industry, by the industry,”

business and network,” said Marie Thadal, Coptis

NYSCC also presented a People’s Choice

business development executive for the Americas.

Award allowing attendees to cast their votes

said Giorgio Dell’Acqua, chair-elect, NYSCC.

for the most innovative brand of the INDIE360

“Next year, the latest in cosmetic science

FRESH AND RETURNING SHOW PROGRAMMES

Pavilion in terms of ingredients, delivery,

and sustainability will be key focal points of

branding and packaging. Chemist Confessions,

the chapter.” •

The debut of the INDIE360 Program provided

Dr. J’s Naturals, Hear Me Raw, Immunocologie,

up and coming indie brands with an immersive

Masami, Opulus Beauty Labs, Organic Apoteke,

educational and sourcing experience.

Skin Moderne and Urban Hydration participated

QUARTER 4 2021 // P&C AFRICA

NYSCC – www.nyscc.org

DIARY

WHAT'S ON IN

2022 January

2022

Cosmetagora

11 to 12 January Paris, France www.cosmetagora.fr

Aerosol & Dispensing Forum

19 to 20 January Paris, France www.adfpcdparis.com/en/adf

HPCi India

27 to 28 January Mumbai, India www.hpci-india.com

February Vivaness & Biofach 15 to 18 February Nuremberg, Germany www.vivaness.de/en

Packaging Innovations

16 to 17 February Birmingham, UK www.packagingbirmingham.com

KZN Industrial Technology Expo 16 to 18 February Durban, South Africa kznindustrial.co.za

March Propak Africa

8 to 11 March Joburg Expo Centre, South Africa www.propakafrica.co.za

Cosmoprof Worldwide 10 to 14 March Bologna, Italy www.cosmoprof.com/en

20th SAAFFI Seminar & Workshop 15 to 16 March Virtual event hosted in SA www.saaffi.co.za

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2021

PERSONAL CARE

Adressing sustainability in the ingredients supply chain

Demands for sustainable and ethically sourced products are increasing. In response to this, IMCD is reshaping its product portfolio and optimising operations to minimise its impact. The group has strong sustainability policies and represents suppliers that are also committed to sustainability. By simplifying its suppliers’ supply chains, on a local and global scale, IMCD enhances process efficiency, leading to improved resource usage and reductions in carbon emissions, energy consumption and waste generation.

AN DEKKER, A subsidiary of IMCD, places

a by-product is transformed into highly pure

sustainability at the heart of its business.

tocopherols. Phytic Acid 50% solution is the

The subsidiary works hard to ensure that

product of a “double upcycling” process, whereby

sustainable practices are embedded in its

rice polishing results in a rice bran by-product

working culture, from optimising the use of

which is used to obtain rice bran oil. Jan Dekker

by-products to minimise waste to taking every

makes use of the defatted rice bran as a source

opportunity to reduce its carbon footprint. Its

of phytic acid, which is a COSMOS approved

conscious efforts also benefit communities in

ingredient with interesting cosmetic benefits.

developing regions, by creating opportunities for their economic empowerment. In the fight against resource exploitation,

ETHICAL AND SUSTAINABLE SOURCING To promote sustainable and ethical ingredient

Did you know? In 2020, IMCD’s large and diverse portfolio consisted of more than 43 000 products. Given this massive number, the group’s product quality and safety policies are focused on the assessment of suppliers’ products and compliance with applicable regulations on safety, quality and labelling.

Jan Dekker makes use of “ugly” fruits or nuts –

sourcing, Ashland, one of IMCD’s principals,

which don’t meet the incredibly high aesthetic

categorises its products according to the

aloe vera. Its initiatives help consumers make

standards established for fresh produce – to

following criteria:

ethical choices, assist brands to reduce their

extract oils and produce butters ultimately sold

• naturality (ISO16128)

environmental footprint and enhance the quality

as high-quality personal care ingredients. It also

• key raw material source

of life of several communities. These initiatives

offers upcycled materials ethically sourced from

• COSMOS standard validation

also ensure the long-term sustainability of

the processing streams of apricot kernel oil,

• biodegradability (OECD) and the likelihood of

Ashland’s product lines.

blackcurrant oil, peach kernel refined oil, rice bran oil and refined cocoa butter to name a few. For example, the Tocomix L series of

environmental persistence.

Ashland provides solutions that are readily

Ashland’s commitment to ethical and sustainable

biodegradable via standard OECD methods. Its

sourcing also includes rigorous standards for

Cellulosics portfolio includes cellulose ethers,

antioxidant and vegetable oil blends are obtained

cellulose traceability and zero-deforestation

which are natural-based substances and

from the refining process of soybean oil, where

practices, as well as Fair-for-Life Puraloe

biodegradable based on the specific starting

QUARTER 4 2021 // P&C AFRICA

PERSONAL CARE

material. The cotton- and wood-derived

continuously to reduce energy demands and CO2

one week. Natural, vegan, COSMOS approved,

cellulose ethers (HEC, HPMC, CMC, HPC and EC)

emissions, not only at its production sites but

ProRenew Complex CLR is proven to improve

offer formulators a wide range of nature-based

also along the value chain.

the overall condition of the scalp.

options for thickening, rheology modification

Fermentation, purification and

Repair Complex CLR PF provides immune

and film formation, with a natural origin content

fragmentation to obtain CLR’s probiotic lysates

strengthening against UV-induced ageing.

of up to 85%. The dissolving wood- and fluff

require extreme precision and total control

This active ingredient stimulates the natural

pulp-based cellulose is sourced from suppliers

of all process parameters. The company’s

DNA repair mechanism after UV irradiation,

who have active sustainability programmes

high-tech equipment and highly educated

acting against the formation of double strand

and have implemented zero deforestation

production personnel allow for goal-oriented

breakages (micronuclei). It also reduces the risk

business practices.

and sustainable production, helping to reduce

of developing chronic photodamage and acts

resource consumption and actively minimise

against UV-induced immunosuppression.

Ashland’s guar-based polymers are polysaccharides with substituted sugar residues.

the environmental impact wherever possible.

They are inherently biodegradable based on the

SUSTAINABLE SURFACTANT TECHNOLOGY

charge density of the polymer structure and the

At Nouryon, enhancing sustainability means

overall viscosity.

reinventing and evolving the nature of its

It also offers a broad selection of

science. It also means developing powerful

polysaccharide-based conditioning

ingredients derived from widely available

polymers. The N-Hance and AquaCat

and renewable resources, and creating

cationic guar ranges are based on

more sustainable surfactants that

guar gum while the ClearHance C

are essential, effective, efficient

polymer is based on cassia seeds.

and elegant.

These nature-derived systems

IMCD distributes Nouryon’s

provide numerous benefits

speciality Chemicals in South

including “dialled-in” conditioning,

Africa. Armocare VGH-70 is a

enhanced deposition, rheology

readily biodegradable vegetable

modification, static reduction and

based quaternary ammonium

lather enhancement for clear and

compound having two fatty

opaque shampoos, conditioners,

acid chains based on natural C16

body washes and liquid soaps.

feedstocks. It is vegetable-derived,

Providing effective moisturisation

based on renewable resources,

and to promote healthy skin by

offers improved sustainability and

strengthening the natural barrier

has a preferable environmental profile

function, Ashland’s Prolipid lamellar gels are

and excellent eco-toxicity profile. Armocare

produced using plant-derived ingredients, such

VGH-70 is safe to use in rinse-off and leave-on

as RSPO-certified palm oil.

personal care applications. Its low melting point makes it easy to process, requiring minimal

SOCIAL AND RESPONSIBLE CORPORATE GOVERNANCE CLR Berlin’s sustainability programme is based on the following pillars: environmental impact; social responsibility; and economic sustainability. Since 2014, this principal of IMCD has met the Social Accountability 8000 (SA8000) standards for social and responsible corporate governance. CLR participates in Responsible Care as well as the sustainable initiative of

Ashland’s Prolipid lamellar gels are produced using plantderived ingredients, such as RSPO-certified palm oil

the chemical industry in Germany, known as

CLR also monitors and handles waste in a

Initiative Chemie.

sustainable manner.

As a privately owned company, CLR has

All final products are standardised

heating and reducing energy consumption. Arquad PC SV-60 PG is a soy-based mono-alkyl quaternary ammonium compound, supplied in propylene glycol as a solvent. It is naturally derived from soy, increasingly renewable and has a sustainable environmental profile. The liquid form of Arquad PC SV-60 PG enables cold processing and reduces energy consumption. It is stable across a wide pH range and offers a broad formulation latitude. Both the Armocare VGH-70 and Arquad PC SV-60 PG cationic conditioning agents display improved environmental profiles in

the independence to live its values and the

raw materials based on a standardised

terms of upstream production and the raw

flexibility to respond quickly to the needs of its

production process and with standardised

materials utilised. This is due to the reduced

customers. It also develops and produces its

activity. ProRenew Complex CLR provides

energy consumption and fewer reaction

products in house.

postbiotic care for a healthy scalp, in rinse-off

steps associated with esterquat production.

CLR is committed to reducing its carbon

applications. It is obtained from a lysate of

Armocare VGH-70 is biodegradable and based

emissions. All of its production sites use 100%

Lactococcus lactis and contains probiotic-

on natural C16, while soya is used as the

renewable electricity and climate-neutral

derived metabolites and cellular fragments,

foundation of Arquad PC SV-60 PG. •

gas as energy sources to monitor, control and

which reduce scalp oiliness, perceivably

sustainably manage energy, natural gas and

improve scalp health, make the scalp less flaky

electricity consumption. The company works

and lead to noticeable improvements after

IMCD – www.imcdgroup.com

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2021

PERSONAL CARE

How indie beauty brands can meet consumers’ expectations post-COVID-19

As a result of greater environmental awareness and a focus on their health and wellness, consumers are spending more time researching the products and brands that align with their holistic lifestyle. They demand of brands to be accountable with greater transparency related to ingredient sourcing and manufacturing practices. To gain their loyalty, it is crucial for indie beauty brands8 to be value driven and offer tangible proof of their commitments. Croda’s Pascal Yvon and Anele Ntuli highlight key consumer expectations of indie beauty brands in a post-COVID-era.

LTHOUGH THERE HAS been a drastic

must, and regulations around the world state

increase in the demand for natural

it. Moreover, clean beauty is about safety

cosmetics, these days consumers

beyond regulatory requirements. It is about

look for more than just a product of natural

the precautionary principle and concerns for

origin. They demand naturality, a holistic

controversial ingredients.

approach in how ingredients are sourced and

This has continued to resonate during

produced as well as how the cosmetic product

the COVID-19 pandemic. With consumers

is manufactured.

now prioritising credentials such as safety,

To guarantee a true naturality claim to

sustainability and full transparency, the clean

consumers, it is very important to trace back

beauty movement has been embraced by many

everything from the final product to the seed

brands and retailers alike, each one developing

and focus on three main areas:

their standard, often with “no-no lists”. The

1. optimal selection of plant extracts with a

general agreement seems to imply that a clean

high concentration of active molecules;

beauty product has been developed with a

2. optimal manufacturing process to produce

heightened sense of safety for consumers.

quality ingredients; and 3. use of both natural extracts and natural formulation ingredients.

Meeting the rise of minimalism and clean beauty lifestyles, Rejuvasoft allows for one-pot processing and creates a premium

Croda’s many natural offerings include

conditioning base with minimal ingredients.

Natragem S140. This plant-derived versatile,

It can be used to create a variety of product

cold-processable solubiliser and effective

formats from light, detangling sprays to thick

cleanser is designed to incorporate a wide range of lipophilic ingredients into clear formulations and

and rich masks. Rejuvasoft can act on its own as a robust chassis or in combination with other hair care actives.7

can provide fantastic cleansing properties.7

RESPONSIBLE SOURCING Consumers are gravitating towards value-

QUARTER 4 2021 // P&C AFRICA

CLEAN BEAUTY

driven brands with environmental and social

At its core, clean

stewardship. Thus, brands must implement an

beauty is about safety

eco-conception approach at every step of the

for human health,

development and production process, which

which of course is a

includes sourcing.

PERSONAL CARE

“Because we take from nature, we must work

INNOVATION

to preserve and protect it.” This new vision is what

Today, innovation has become a fast-paced

has fostered many brands to implement new eco-

process in the cosmetics industry. A

conscious sourcing processes and move towards

few trends, which have now become

more sustainable solutions, such as upcycling. This

preeminent, include multi-tasking

is the process where by-products or discarded

skin care, an all-natural approach to

materials are transformed into new products

products, eco-conscious sourcing

of higher value. In the cosmetic industry, food

and manufacturing processes,

waste is a rich source of raw materials that can

and diversity-minded skin

be valorised into new ingredients with effective

care. Another growing area is

properties for the skin. Upcycling offers many

vegan beauty; this category is

economic and environmental benefits, including

expected to grow in value to

decreasing the negative impact that food waste

over $20bn by 2027.5

may have on the environment while helping to

Creativity in the beauty

reduce one’s carbon and water footprint and

industry will continue to

supporting local communities.

expand. Therefore, it is crucial

An example of this is Croda’s Phytolea

for brands to stay up to date with

Pomegranate. Pomegranate seed oil from upcycled

consumer demand and facilitate

seeds can help turn back time with its powerful

their purchase decisions to help them

anti-inflammatory and regenerating effects. This

reach their holistic goals.

oil also has excellent antioxidant, moisturising and nourishing properties, and is ideal for incorporation into products for mature, dry and irritated skin. Biodiversity preservation also forms part of eco-conscious sourcing. The scientific community indicates that due to human influences, species are becoming extinct at up to 1 000 times the rate caused by natural conditions. A total of 95% of 2

consumers believe their actions could help reduce unsustainable waste generation while protecting wildlife and biodiversity. Consumers are likely to 3

start selecting brands that show effective actions toward biodiversity preservation. Crothix, a thickener, produces a substantial viscosity in detergent systems, even at low levels. This multi-functional ingredient also acts as a counterirritant, aiding the formulation of mild surfactant systems. Crothix requires no neutralisation and works well in clear and hardto-thicken systems. Sampling will be of the sustainable palm variant, SP Crothix MBAL. Croda considers the RSPO’s Mass Balance system to be an important progressive step in supporting the palm oil physical supply chain and creating momentum towards segregated sustainable palm oil and palm kernel oil material.7

66% of consumers are more likely to choose a brand if it is transparent Croda’s recent innovation, Silverfree, helps visibly reduce the density of greying hair and helps recover the original hair colour. This biomimetic peptide supports the progressive restoration of the original hair pigmentation with a remnant effect while protecting it from oxidative damage.7

CERTIFICATIONS Although efficacy remains vital, the demand for transparency continues to grow among consumers. 66% of consumers are more likely to choose a brand if it is transparent. 6

66% of consumers are willing to pay more for brands that are committed to a positive social and environmental impact.4 Brands must focus on specific concerns such as fair trade, traditional culture protection, fair wages and community development programmes.

16128 natural, this phytocomplex is adapted to sensitive skin and is ideal for gentle exfoliation applications. AHA Phytocomplex is a blend of efficient AHAs that exfoliate the skin, scalp and hair, and lighten the complexion.7 Addressing today’s consumer expectations fosters future commercial success by taking care of users’ health as well as the planet. This requires brands to review all critical considerations from the product ideation stage and select the right supplier committed to the values aligned with consumers’ lifestyles. •

Even though consumers are drawn to natural, organic and sustainable brands, this does not mean they will blindly purchase from

Croda – www.crodapersonalcare.com

them. Today’s consumers demand proof, and this is where certifications come into play.

References:

There are several well-recognised certification

1. Burt’s Bees. (2021). Impact 2020 + 2025 Impact Vision.

bodies available to help ensure that the claims

2. Global assessment on biodiversity (2019). Intergovernmental Science-Policy Platform on Biodiversity and Ecosystem Services report.

presented to consumers are validated, such

Did you know?

IECIC, Halal, COSMOS natural-approved and

as Ecocert COSMOS-certified, Certified Vegan, UEBT, ISO 22716 for Good Manufacturing Practices and EcoVadis. With more and more ways for consumers to become informed, brands need to be agile and adapt swiftly to thrive in a fast-paced, post-COVID environment where trust is the new currency. Many of Croda’s products carry well-recognised certifications that you can request to claim on your finished formulations. An example of these is AHA Phytocomplex.

3. Sustainability matters now more than ever for consumer companies (2020). Boston Consulting Group. 4. Creating a more beautiful world – Sustainability report. Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) 2019. 5. HAPPI. (2021, June 21). Vegan Beauty and Wellness Boutique Opens In Boca Raton. 6. Accenture. (2021). From Me to We: The Rise of the Purpose-Led Brand. 7. Crodapersonalcare.com. 2021. Croda Personal Care | Speciality Chemical supplier to the Personal Care and Beauty Industry | Personal Care. [online] Available at: <https://www.crodapersonalcare.com/en-gb>. 8. www.dictionary.com. 2021. Definition of indie | Dictionary.com. [online] Available at: <https://www. dictionary.com/browse/indie#:~:text=noun,rock%2C%20 that%20is%20independently%20produced.>.

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2021

ETHNIC CARE

Brightening ingredients team up for superior results As a pioneer explorer of the exposome, Symrise is constantly developing new solutions to address pigmentation concerns. Capitalising on the blockbuster SymBright 2036 – a smart and efficient combination of ingredients was sought to enhance its efficacy. Niacinamide provided a perfect match, leading to the conception of SymBright Plus, a ready-to-use and versatile liquid blend. By Amélie Rousseau, Dr Joachim Hans and Marine Lochouarn

ARK SPOTS ARE the “new wrinkles” as perceptions of skin ageing continue to change. To tackle this specific

concern, Symrise has been exploring various avenues in search of a brightening partner with optimised efficacy. UV light can induce melanogenesis in the skin through two distinct pathways: either by direct activation of the melanocyte, or via an indirect pathway by generating Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) e.g. in surrounding keratinocytes. These keratinocytes react to ROS by producing stress signals which are then secreted and subsequently stimulate melanogenesis.

SUPERIOR ROS REDUCTION Because SymBright® Plus has been developed as a skin brightener, its efficacy was evaluated on human skin explants exposed to UV irradiation. As the generation of ROS as a starting point for the indirect activation pathway is a very fast process, a study was conducted on the capability of SymBright Plus to reduce the amount of ROS in skin explants irradiated with 60J/cm² UVA. Figure 1 shows cross sections of skin explants with a green fluorescence marker indicating the presence of ROS in the tissue. Quantification of the fluorescence supports the evaluation of the test samples in reducing ROS activity. The test results showed that SymBright Plus facilitated a 66% decrease in the ROS score compared to the UVirradiated control. The individual components

UVA, untreated

UVA, Vehicle Control

UVA, SymBright® PLUS

Figure 1: Fluorescence staining (DCFH-DA) of histological cross sections from human skin explants (female donor, age 51, ITA angle 36° and intermediate). The intensity of the fluorescence is correlated to the presence of ROS in the tissue. Scale bars represent 100µm

NO MATCH FOR THE SINGLE COMPONENTS

the skin explants by 26% versus the UV control.

In a second experiment, Symrise analysed

Changes in melanin content can be

the effect of SymBright Plus on UV-

caused by the degradation of existing

induced pigmentation. Human skin

melanin or a reduction of the biosynthesis

explants (female donor, age 43, ITA angle

of the pigment. To assess the influence of

24° and tanned) were exposed to daily

SymBright Plus on melanogenesis, Symrise

UVB irradiation for seven days at a dose

analysed the abundance of Melan-A

SymBright® Plus led to a 64% reduction of Melan-A signals compared to the UVtreated vehicle control

as a marker of de novo formation and maturation of melanosomes, the organelles in which melanogenesis takes place. Treatment of UVB-irradiated skin explants with SymBright Plus led to a 64% reduction of Melan-A signals compared to the UV-treated vehicle control. SymBright Plus also outperformed its single compounds in reducing Melan-A signals, indicative of de novo melanogenesis.

of 75mJ/cm². Quantitative evaluation was performed using Fontana-Masson

SUPERIOR EFFICACY WITH ADDED VALUE

staining. The test results shown in Figure 2

Collectively, these findings indicate

confirm SymBright Plus reduced melanin in

that SymBright Plus is very effective

of melanin content in the skin explants

Vehicle Control, No UVB

Vehicle Control, UVB

SymBright® PLUS, UVB

of SymBright Plus were also tested in their respective concentrations and none of the single ingredients reached the level of efficacy of SymBright Plus in ROS reduction. These results demonstrate the superior action of SymBright Plus in reducing ROS in human skin compared to the individual components.

QUARTER 4 2021 // P&C AFRICA

Figure 2: Assessment of melanin content by Fontana Masson staining in human skin explants after seven days of treatment with the test items and subsequent exposure to 75mJ/cm² of UVB irradiation. The black staining, quantified by image analysis, is indicative of the presence of melanin. Scale bars represent 100µm

ETHNIC CARE

Figure 3: Representative image of Melan-A signals in cross sections of human skin explants after seven days of treatment with test items and daily exposure to 75mJ/cm² UVB irradiation. The image shown is a vehicle control with UVB irradiation. The deep-red coloured cells (indicated by the black arrows) contain Melan-A and are therefore considered to be engaged in de novo melanogenesis. Scale bar represents 100µm in reducing UV-induced ROS species in

The results also point to a dual action with

Supplied in a liquid form, SymBright Plus is easy

human skin explants and highly effective

SymBright Plus potentially exerting an effect

to use and well suited to multiple applications,

in reducing melanogenesis. It outperforms

both on the direct and indirect pathway for

including everyday face and body care, anti-spot

its single components in terms of ROS

UV-induced melanogenesis. This skin care

treatments, tissue masks and more.•

inhibition and de novo melanogenesis,

ingredient blend is a versatile, in vivo proven and

clearly demonstrating the added value of

efficient solution for the prevention of uneven

this innovative liquid blend from Symrise.

skin pigmentation and hyperpigmented spots.

Symrise – www.symrise.com

Skin Actives

EXPLORING BIO-INTELLIGENCE FOR ADAPTIVE BEAUTY

Cutting-edge, efficacious and substantiated ingredients that make a difference in the world of beauty care. Explore our Skin Actives in the areas of well aging, exposome, skin pigmentation and soothing, cooling and warming, moisturization and oily skin. Versatile, safe and designed to work in harmony with the natural micro-language of the skin.

COSMETIC INGREDIENTS BY SYMRISE always inspiring more ...

www.symselect.com I www.symrise.com Follow us on Instagram @symrise.ci

Unbenannt-2 1

25.11.21 11:42

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2021

ETHNIC CARE

Joybliss

– a plumping ingredient inspired by the wheel of life LipoTrue is an international company dedicated to manufacturing and the distribution of active ingredients for the cosmetics industry. The company has been created as a central R&D engine integrating high technology platforms to discover novel active ingredients with outstanding efficacies. One of its newest offerings is Joybliss, a green active ingredient based on LipoTrue’s Greenbeat proprietary technology.

LISS IS DEFINED as an immeasurable state of complete joy. We all have our own joy list made up of different

key aspects such as travel, love-life, work

EFFECTIVE BLISS-FINDING ACTIVE INGREDIENT

plumping. It consists of a combination of Vitis

Joybliss is a green active ingredient from

cell technology and the extract of the roots of

LipoTrue which helps to fill the wheel of

Black cohosh.

and career etc., so the journey to this state of fullness is different for each of us. According to psychologists, to reach a state of fullness, our wheel of life should be as full as possible to bring balance and happiness to our lives, ensuring the journey is as smooth as possible. To fill your joy list, try listing the things that you know make you happy. This is one way to also help you achieve your goals and become a healthier and more radiant version of yourself. In the same way, to bring skin a refreshed, awakened and younger appearance, the “wheel of plumping” should also be as full as possible. Ageing itself and internal/external factors such as hereditary components, UV, smoke, alcohol, chronic sleep deprivation and diet can lead to a decrease in antioxidant and antiinflammatory capacity, which can damage adipose tissue. Age-dependent modification of the facial subcutaneous white adipose tissue influences the mechanical stability of the skin and causes the development of signs of ageing, such as wrinkles, a loss of elasticity, fullness, luminosity etc.

QUARTER 4 2021 // P&C AFRICA

vinifera extract, sourced using Greenology stem

ECOVADIS GOLD RATING FOR SUSTAINABILITY AND CSR In September 2021, LipoTrue was awarded an EcoVadis 2021 Gold rating for its sustainability management system and corporate social responsibility policy. The rating places LipoTrue among the top 5% of the companies evaluated worldwide. According to the CEO of LipoTrue, Juan Carlos Escudero: “LipoTrue is committed to innovating in the research and development of novel and ethical active ingredients with high efficacies, adding value through sustainable policies. As a company, we have set very ambitious goals to meet today consumer’s needs without compromising the future, creating a sustainable today for future generations. This will bring to customers added value to their business as part of the supply chain ensuring that the active ingredients purchased have been developed ethically and respectfully towards people and the environment.” This achievement is the consolidation of LipoTrue as a referent in sustainability.

Committed not only to reduce the footprint of the products it manufactures, but to also make a positive impact both in society and on the environment. This sets sustainable targets and provides flowcharts and tools for developing innovative products that contribute to a better future while helping secure a sustainable business growth. The company’s “Building a True Future” sustainability approach is built on three pillars: 1. sustainable innovation and production 2. people and community 3. environmental commitment. “The substantiation of these pillars and the EcoVadis recognition would not have been possible without the support and commitment of LipoTrue’s employees and partners. I truly value the passion and talent with which we work and our committment to meet our business and sustainability goals,” Escudero commented.

ETHNIC CARE

American medicine, and today it is a popular women’s health supplement claimed to help with menopause symptoms, fertility and hormonal balance. The roots are also rich in polyphenols and isoflavones. Joybliss is said to induce adipogenesis differentiation and prevents ageing of the adipose tissue by modulating its inflammation and increasing collagen I content in the hypodermis. This mode of action is thanks to the

Spectrophotometer/colorimeter results of the Joybliss clinical study, showing radiance/ brightness efficacy data. The study involved 20 female volunteers (aged between 50 and 60 years old), who applied 3% Joybliss twice a day for 28 days to half of the face (***p<0.001 versus T0; *** p<0.001 versus placebo)

To bring skin a refreshed, awakened and younger appearance, the “wheel of plumping” should also be as full as possible

communication between adipocytes

Results of a self-assessment questionnaire answered by 20 female volunteers (aged between 50 and 60 years old), who took part in the Joybliss clinical study (3% Joybliss applied twice a day for 28 days to half of the face) The Monastrell variety of Vitis vinifera is of Spanish origin. It is rich in polyphenols and anthocyanins and considered to have antioxidant properties. Black cohosh is

and fibroblasts which is supported and enhanced by Joybliss. Joybliss reduces crow’s feet and nasolabial wrinkles as a plumping ingredient, soothes erythema and brings radiance to the skin. Joybliss has been shown to increase one’s positive mood and decrease the vocal markers of stress after 28 days. •

a flowering plant that’s native to North America. Its flowers and roots were commonly used in traditional Native

Wrinkle plumper

Blow inflammaging away

Illuminate your mood

Create your own happiness T0 days

LipoTrue – lipotrue.com

T28 days

For more information visit: www.lipotrue.com | info@lipotrue.com

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2021

ETHNIC CARE

Reinventing beauty in Africa through customisation and a close-to-market approach There is a new state-of-the-art evaluation salon for personal care in Lagos, Nigeria thanks to the commitment of BASF’s Care Creations® to take its solutions and expertise closer to the local markets. Osarenren Igbinoba, regional business management personal care, sub-Saharan Africa at BASF, spoke to P&C Review Africa about the salon, emerging opportunities in hair and skin care and why it is crucial to tailor formulations for the West African market. ARE THE WEST AFRICAN AND SUBSAHARAN AFRICAN PERSONAL CARE MARKETS OF GREAT SIGNIFICANCE FROM A GROWTH PERSPECTIVE? Igbinoba: Africa is expected to command more than 20% of the global population by 2025. In Nigeria alone more than 206m people live in the country. BASF has been active in this part of Africa for almost a century, although initially in other industries. More recently, we’ve been expanding our presence in the personal care market. These population numbers support the rapid growth of sub-Saharan Africa’s personal care

Did you know?

no products tailored specifically to their needs. But

An in vivo evaluation allows BASF’s scientists to improve their knowledge of the hair and skin of African consumers. It also facilitates observation of the perceptible efficacy of BASF’s solutions while getting direct feedback from endusers on their product-use experience. These invaluable insights ensure BASF constantly delivers on the true needs

ever that there is no such thing as a one-size-fits-

of consumers.

this has been changing over the past few years. Brands and manufacturers are more aware than all solution when it comes to cosmetics. Importing products or even emulating existing formulations from other markets are not enough to serve consumers in sub-Saharan Africa. Awareness of the importance of diversity and inclusion continues to grow in the personal care industry, and with beauty brands increasingly focusing on care products for all skin and hair types – the topic is gaining more visibility.

market and we are convinced it holds great potential. In both the hair and skin care categories, forecast volume growth is significantly higher than global growth. To offer the best

true to the motto of “think globally, act locally”. This strategy is supported by our new care evaluation salon in Lagos, which allows us to further strengthen on-site support.

Igbinoba: Compared to other skin types, African skin

possible service, we

is characterised by higher melanin content, a larger

our customers,

WHY IS PRODUCT TAILORING IMPORTANT IN FORMULATION DEVELOPMENT?

while remaining

Igbinoba: The characteristics of different hair and

The combination of a darker skin tone and increased

skin types as well as consumers’ personal care

sebum and skin lipid production, often leads to a

routines vary widely across regions, necessitating

pronounced shine on facial skin.

need to stay close to the market and

Osarenren Igbinoba, regional business management personal care, sub-Saharan Africa at BASF

WHAT ARE THE MOST PREVALENT HAIR AND SKIN CARE PREFERENCES AND PAIN POINTS OF AFRICAN CONSUMERS?

QUARTER 4 2021 // P&C AFRICA

pore size and increased sebum production. African consumers have a natural predisposition to oily skin.

tailored cosmetic products. Despite Africa being

In regions closer to the equator, people are

an important market with high growth potential,

exposed to high UV radiation for longer periods.

its consumers have often felt underserved by

The resulting aggregation of melanin in the most

mainstream hair and skin care brands with little to

exposed areas of the skin predisposes African skin

ETHNIC CARE

BASF’s new state-of-the-art evaluation salon based in Nigeria to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

BASF supports customers by developing formulations that strike a chord with African consumers

understanding of consumers’ preferences and pain

use. With these perceivable benefits, they will

points. It also requires scientific expertise on hair

be more willing to use a particular product on a

cleanse pores thoroughly yet gently, improve skin’s

and skin and extensive knowledge of ingredients

regular basis.

texture by supporting the balance between moisture

and formulation technologies and how these

and sebum production, and which offer reliable UV

elements interact.

Skin care routines should include products that

protection. Anti-ageing products tend to only play a minor role in the region as the skin’s higher dermal and epidermal junction naturally slow down the formation of wrinkles. African hair has distinct characteristics too and requires a special care routine. The unique combination of tight kinks and coils, an elliptical cross-section and fewer cuticle layers results in weak points and prevents sebum from coating the

We provide product evaluation support to customers and strategic partners, helping them to develop finished products with high market relevance

entire hair shaft. Consequently, curly hair tangles easily and is difficult to comb. It is also particularly

WHO WILL BENEFIT FROM THE CARE EVALUATION SALON? Igbinoba: In our new facility, we provide product evaluation support to customers and strategic partners, helping them to develop finished products with high market relevance and consumer acceptance. At the same time, both our salon and laboratory facilities will be open for collaboration with academic institutions whose research work focuses on African hair and skin care in the field of cosmetic

In our new facility, all these elements are

science. By partnering with academic researchers,

prone to dryness and breakage, necessitating

combined to verify consumer acceptance and

we aim to advance technical expertise in the region

tailored products that enhance the health and

ensure market relevance of our targeted solutions.

and support emerging talent by training the next

beauty of African hair.

This is done through in vivo studies on volunteers

generation of cosmetic scientists.

Popular hairstyles put additional strain on the hair

from the sub-Saharan African region and using

because they involve harsh chemical treatments or

strict test protocols that comply with ethical and

high temperature grooming. So, specialty products

safety guidelines.

are needed to prevent hair damage. In recent years,

IS THERE ALREADY EVIDENCE IN THE MARKET OF THE BENEFITS OF THE CARE EVALUATION SALON?

WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF IN VIVO TESTING?

Igbinoba: We first solidified our commitment to

natural hairstyles in appreciation of consumers’ heritage. Naturalness has since become an

Igbinoba: In vivo tests allow for the assessment of

opening of our application technology laboratory.

important driver of choice among African consumers

cosmetic formulations close to real world application

Expanding our capabilities even further

when purchasing skin and hair care products. In

but under controlled conditions that are needed for

emphasizes our trust in this region and its people.

line with these trends, BASF offers an extensive

scientific and statistical evaluations. Not only must

portfolio of ingredients ideally suited to meeting the

formulations work in theory, but also and above all

kind to be established by a personal care

unique needs of African consumers.

in practice.

ingredient supplier in Nigeria. The new facility is

there has however been a trend towards more

the sub-Saharan African market in 2019 with the

Our new in-house salon is the first of its

Understanding the unique characteristics of

a great opportunity for BASF to strengthen its

IN 2019, BASF OPENED AN APPLICATION TECHNOLOGY LABORATORY IN LAGOS. WHAT INSPIRED THE DECISION TO EXPAND CAPABILITIES TO INCLUDE A CARE EVALUATION SALON?

African skin and hair is key to creating solutions for

position as a preferred partner in the region for

these consumers. In vivo sensory and performance

collaboration on topics relating to African hair

tests on panelists are inevitable in successful

and skin care, consumer insights, innovation and

product development and to ascertain whether

formulation design.

sensory and performance properties of a product

opportunity to accelerate the development of the

Igbinoba: Personal care manufacturers in sub-

are also significant in that they influence consumers’

personal care industry in sub-Saharan Africa. We

Saharan Africa rely on our application technology

repurchase decisions.

will continue to push the frontiers of investing

a formulation appeals to its target group. The

I also strongly believe that this is a great

laboratory for formulation and technical support

Preferences can depend on a person’s skin and

to help them develop modern hair and skin care

hair condition while also being influenced by extrinsic

support the industry in its evolution towards

products, which are relevant to regional needs. Our

factors such as climate. For example, light lotions

increased global competitiveness. •

new care evaluation salon completes this offering in

are preferred in warmer regions, while those living in

terms of product testing and claim substantiation.

Scandinavia favour rich creams.

Designing a perfect personal care formulation

Consumers also want tangible performance

for the sub-Saharan Africa market requires a deep

benefits and a pleasant experience during product

in sustainable growth in Africa, while aiming to

BASF’s Care Creations® – https://www.carecreations.basf.com/

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2021

A full-service experience

Review Ishida Europe has extended its range of QX Flex tray sealers with the launch of a new model, which meets market demands for a compact, high-performance solution. The innovative model also maximises output, capacity and flexibility for medium- to high-volume production lines. Sustainability is an integral part of Multivac’s strategy. For 60 years, the company’s packaging solutions have ensured that sensitive products globally can be processed efficiently, as well as being packed hygienically, reliably and attractively.

Rotolabel is passionate about the environment and focuses on minimising any negative ecological impact of its products. The company subscribes to the four Rs of packaging sustainability: responsible sourcing; reduction of materials; recyclability and increased recycled content

Read more in the latest issue of Packaging Review Out Now! ADVERTISING

Interested in advertising in PACKAGING REVIEW? If you are a supplier to the packaging industry, this will be an ideal opportunity to showcase your product offering and create additional brand awareness within the food, beverage, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, personal care, and home care manufacturing sectors.

Contact our advertising sales executives to book your space: Anita Raath Sales executive +27 (0)82 976 6541

Carla Melless Sales executive +27 (0)83 260 6060

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive +27 (0)71 438 1918

SIGNUP

PACKAGING

Specialised labelling solutions

to engage consumers in new ways The consumer product market has become more competitive than ever. With the increasing focus on the interactive experience, packaging plays a key role in the selection process of consumer products. An unusual texture or vibrant, high-definition visuals can make all the difference in influencing consumers at the critical point of sale, where purchasing decisions are made within seconds. We chat to Siyakha about its flexible packaging and labelling solutions that help brand owners ensure their products stand out from the crowd.

IYAKHA IMPERIAL PRINTING Company

products stand proud on supermarket shelves,

(Siyakha) has been in business for over

both nationally and internationally, while Siyakha’s

20 years with the vision to produce

experience and expertise make it a first choice

value-added, high-quality flexible packaging and

amongst a wide range of blue-chip customers.

labelling. Today it has branches in South Africa and Mauritius, and has representation throughout Southern and East Africa through strategic

TRACEABILITY AND ANTI-COUNTERFEITING INNOVATIONS

distribution and marketing networks.

The company is committed to extensive R&D in

The company specialises in printed flexible

areas of new substrate testing and improved inks

packaging, pressure-sensitive labels and shrink

to maintain a cost-effective and efficient product

sleeves for the personal care, pharmaceutical,

development process.

food, beverage and home care industries. Its

Did you know? Siyakha is a pioneer in packaging and business innovation. In recognition of its efforts, the company has been honoured with numerous awards over the years. These include an Exporter of the Year Award in 2017; FtaSA Flexo Awards in 2019 and 2020; and Gold Pack Awards in 2019, 2020 and 2021.

It can create printed flexibles and labels that

Siyakha has a dedicated team ensuring customer satisfaction is delivered

A DEDICATED, TECH-SAVVY TEAM

are unique to customers’ product requirements

Siyakha’s special products business has been

and offers advanced dimensional barcode scanning

specifically developed to meet the requirements

technology, which allows for better traceability,

of all its customers. The company has a dedicated

authentication and convenience of information

team of technical experts working on high-

(for example product description, serial number

definition press technology. This provides

and URL), on restricted surface areas such as

production flexibility and allows Siyakha to

pharmaceutical or cosmetic packaging.

confidently tackle the most difficult prints,

Siyakha has also formulated specialised coatings for counterfeiting prevention and to

maintaining a superior product throughout, even on the largest production runs. •

enhance product identification, while its cleverly designed tamper-proof packaging provides enhanced product security.

Siyakha Imperial Printing Company – www.labelprint.co.za

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2021

PACKAGING

Solutions to protect pharmaceutical packaging

Counterfeit goods – including counterfeit pharmaceutical products – cost a fraction of the price of the original goods. This means that people who under normal circumstances would not have access to those products, can now afford them. TracePack offers a range of anti-counterfeiting labelling solutions and track-andtrace technology proven to protect consumers and the intellectual property of pharma manufacturers.

ACCORDING TO THE World Health Organization (WHO), up to 2 billion people worldwide lack access to necessary medicines, vaccines, medical devices including in vitro diagnostics, and other health products, which creates a vacuum

that is too often filled by substandard and falsified products. This problem is growing as global supply chains become more complex, meaning products manufactured in one country may be packaged in a second country and distributed across borders to be marketed or sold to consumers in a third. The growth of e-commerce also contributes to this challenge by making it easier to purchase medicines online, often from unauthorised sources. Counterfeit medicines affect economies in several areas: • individuals fall victim to low-quality counterfeit products that may not adequately treat their medical needs • legitimate producers can lose sales to counterfeiters, sparking the need for steps to combat fake products and to ensure that counterfeiters do not infiltrate their supply chains • governments and their active involvement in managing healthcare in countries • entire economies, in the form of the impact on crime levels, the environment and possible effects on jobs and foreign investment. MOST GEOGRAPHICAL AREAS ARE AFFECTED It is often assumed that high-income countries with strong regulatory systems can effectively exclude substandard and falsified medical products from their markets, but WHO analysis shows that this is not necessarily the case. Reports on these products have been submitted by countries in Western Europe and North America as well as other high-income settings.

QUARTER 4 2021 // P&C AFRICA

Pharmatrack Seal 4.0 inkjet print module

According to WHO estimates, it is assumed that around 10% of all medicines worldwide is counterfeit In an analysis of cases of counterfeit incidents involving the penetration of legitimate supply chains and reported to PSI CIS database between 2009 and 2011, Mackey et al. (2015) revealed that upper- and lower-middle income countries comprised 93% of all cases. Analysis of the health consequences of falsified medicines performed by Rahman et al. (2018) showed that the 48 reported incidents involving health damage due to falsified medicines were almost equally distributed among developing (27 cases, 56.3%) and developed countries (21 cases, 43.7%). TracePack is the licensed African distributor of Arca and specialises in the sale of equipment to mark, code or label any products. The latest labelling system within the Arca Pharma labelling machine line is the Pharma Seal 4.0,

which offers high-speed, tamper-evident label application on pharmaceutical packaging. With a compact stainless steel main base of just 1 320mm, this automatic industrial pharmaceutical labelling machine is designed to meet the requirements of tamper-evident labelling within operational pharmaceutical packaging lines. It does this by applying one or two tamper-evident seal labels on pharmaceutical formed cardboard boxes at

Pharma Seal 4.0

PACKAGING

Pharmaceutical tamper seal inspection

speeds of up to 300 products per minute, with advanced 4.0 functions.

Shrink wrap inspection

ENABLING TRACK-AND-TRACE The customs departments of European countries seize up to 2.4m counterfeit pharmaceutical packages each year. According to WHO estimates, it is assumed that around 10% of all medicines worldwide is counterfeit. In developing countries, that proportion even rises to 30%. It is not only luxury pharmaceuticals but also antibiotics, cholesterol and cancer drugs that are in demand and the damage is not merely financial. It is therefore more important than ever in the fight against drug counterfeiters to have clear identification and traceability of the original products.

TracePack’s range of In-Sight vision systems makes it possible to verify labels safely, identify codes and optical character recognition data, ensuring the track-and-trace of pharmaceutical folding boxes. As manufacturers and brand owners prepare for compliance with global traceability requirements and transition from batch to item-level serialisation, it is important to remember that compliance requires much more than simply reading a code on a label or packaging part. For mass serialisation to support traceability, it is first

essential to verify code quality and validate that all of the encoded data is accurate and correctly formatted. The In-Sight trackand-trace software works with network In-Sight vision systems to create a complete identification and data verification solution for serialised labels on pharmaceutical packaging, making sure that you can easily and cost-effectively comply with patient safety and traceability requirements. • TracePack – www.tracepack.co.za

A Division of MITAS Corporation (Pty) Ltd

Anticounterfeiting Protection in the Pharmaceutical Industry 1 in 10 drugs sold in developing countries are fake or sub-standard. Our Inspection Systems have been designed to operate with high volume product influx to ensure that every single saleable unit has been thoroughly checked, approved, and released into the supply chain in a safe state. +27 10 020 7221

www.tracepack.co.za

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2021

PACKAGING

Fast and GMP-compliant labelling for reliable pharmaceutical production Establishing a valid labelling process is key in pharma manufacturing. The process also needs to be as efficient, fast and sustainable as possible. When Steierl-Pharma, based in Bavaria, Germany, needed to optimise its new labelling machine with modern inspection technology, the pharma manufacturer turned to Omron for a suitable system.

ARDLY ANY OTHER industry is subject to such stringent regulations and quality requirements as the pharmaceutical industry. This applies to active ingredients, manufacturing, product storage and labelling. Labels must be robust and adhere reliably to a product’s packaging for the usability period of up to five years. Labels carry

important information such as the name of the pharmaceutical product, active ingredient(s), the manufacturer, and variable data such as expiration date, lot number and serialisation information. Steierl-Pharma is a medium-sized pharmaceutical company specialising in naturopathy. It produces medicines in liquid dosage form packaged in cylindrical glass containers with 3 600

units passing through the production line in one hour. Its product range includes medicines for the musculoskeletal system, to lower blood pressure, for relieving migraines or skin diseases, and for treating flu-like infections.

Just one FHV7 camera is needed to perform highprecision visual inspections of the production line To ensure its labelling process is both efficient and sustainable, SteierlPharma consulted with automation experts at Omron. Since installing a new labelling system with smart camera technology, the manufacturer can label its products reliably and at a high speed. These labels are printed with variable data on batch designation, expiration date and if required, the dispensing

Steierl-Pharma’s new Herma labelling machine equipped with an Omron FHV7 smart camera

QUARTER 4 2021 // P&C AFRICA

notice “sample not for sale”.

PACKAGING

The FHV7 series smart camera provides illumination and image processing functionality for enhanced visual inspections

A CLOSER LOOK AT THE PROCESS In pharma manufacturing, good manufacturing practices (GMP)certification guarantees process integrity and conformity with applicable regulations. Steierl-Pharma holds the required manufacturing license for medicinal products as well as a GMP certificate. The manufacturer’s filling and packaging line is designed with a production capacity of around 3 600 units per hour. It consists of a filling and capping machine, a labeller and a packaging machine. The line ensures a continuous and seamless process consisting of filling and closing the bottles with a dropper insert and a screw cap. The closed bottles then leave the cleanroom and enter the labeller, where they are labelled and inserted in a folding carton together with an information leaflet in the packaging machine. OVERCOMING HISTORICAL CHALLENGES In 2019, a project team at SteierlPharma began initial considerations to introduce a replacement for an already older labelling machine. The labelling machine used until then already had a smart camera-based inspection system to check the identity of the label and the variable data (batch name and expiration date). However, this had two drawbacks. Labels were repeatedly misread as “bad” labels, and the units that

were in fact “bad” were not being rejected, but rather stopping the labelling process. This meant that when the machine stopped, the bottles backed up into the filling machine and the packaging machine ran empty. “So, we had a bottleneck in our process,” reports Steffen Wegner, managing director of Steierl-Pharma. “That’s why we worked with the machinery manufacturer Herma to find a suitable inspection system. The focus here was on high reliability and pricing.” The aim was to develop a labelling machine that not only met GMP requirements, but also ran without interruption during regular operation. One of the central criteria was that the new inspection system had to work particularly precisely. Bad units, such as those with an incorrect or illegible barcode or batch or expiry date errors, must be detected reliably. Steierl-Pharma wanted a high level of specificity and sensitivity to ensure the system only detects actual bad units and ejects them from the process. And with an output of around 60 labels per minute, the inspection system needs to complete the complex inspection tasks within a time window in the range of milliseconds. SMART CAMERA OFFERS ENHANCED VISUAL INSPECTION The central component in this project is the inspection system. Wegner explains: “We decided on the Omron FHV7 smart camera after running a test on our label material on site, supported by an Omron application engineer. We were effectively supported by Omron throughout the entire development process up to commissioning and qualification of the machine and beyond.” With the help of the FHV7, the Herma labelling machine at Steierl-Pharma checks the identity of the label based on the pharmaceutical code and verifies the batch number and expiration date via optical character validation (OCV) for compliance with the specifications. The FHV7 series smart camera provides illumination and image processing functionality for enhanced visual inspections. Due to its world-first, multi-colour light and a powerful highresolution 12-megapixel camera, just one FHV7 camera is needed to perform high-precision visual inspections of the production line.

INTUITIVE, EASY TO USE SOFTWARE During the performance qualification, the project managers involved were surprised by the extremely high specificity of the FHV7. “We could not believe the level of reliability of the Omron FHV7 inspection system. As part of the challenge test, we deliberately introduced mislabels, all of which were reliably detected – but with a throughput of several 10 000 labels, not a single good label was incorrectly read as a bad label,” reports Wegner. Even a single faulty unit could cause a lot of trouble in a GMP-regulated environment. By using the new camera, such situations do not occur, and the machine outages caused by the incorrect reading of actual good units can also be prevented. Another advantage of the Omron camera is the software, which is intuitive to use and does not require lengthy training. “I also really like the option of a customisable user interface, and so do the users. There is only one window in which, for example, the target code, batch designation and expiration date can be entered. Code verification and OCV can also be performed. It’s all very clear and simple,” explains Wegner. The software runs on any current Windows system and communicates directly with the FHV7 via the local network. He also praised the high inspection speed of the Omron system. The complex individual inspection of a label takes just 80 milliseconds, which Wegner says is “impressively fast”. Steierl-Pharma is very satisfied with the new labeller and Omron’s inspection technology. “In a highly regulated environment such as the pharmaceutical industry, manufacturers must be able to fully rely on the technology they implement while successfully completing the qualification thereof. This was the case at SteierlPharma,” says Wegner. “The cooperation with the sales and application team has been excellent.” Since Steierl-Pharma has had such a positive experience with Omron, it is planning to convert an existing packaging machine to Omron inspection technology in the near future. •

Omron – industrial.omron.co.za Steierl-Pharma – www.steierl.de

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2021

FRUGAL INNOVATION

The beauty and cost-saving benefits of inverse emulsions For the longest time, w/o emulsions were reserved for use in sunscreens, waterproof makeup and nappy (barrier) creams. Yet over the years, emulsion technology has evolved widening the range of applications for emulsions to almost all personal care products. Jacques Strydom, technical manager for personal care and home care at AECI Specialty Chemicals explains the history behind the technology and how the application focus has changed.

T’S IMPORTANT TO understand the main

This begs the question, why are the majority

difference between water-in-oil (w/o)

of personal care creams o/w, which is the

phase content increases the viscosity of the

and oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions. Water

opposite type of emulsion?

final emulsion. Thus, oil phases in the order of

and oil are not miscible with each other, so

In w/o emulsions, increasing the dispersed

10% to 15% yield thick creams, while oil phases

emulsifiers are needed to mix the two parts

SELECTING W/O EMULSIFIERS

in the range of 18% to 35% yield lower viscosity

and create a stable end-product.

AND EMOLLIENTS

lotions. The other advantage of w/o is that

In the past, w/o emulsions were perceived

the viscosity of the oil phase is proportional

In colloidal science, the ‘inside’ phase is called the dispersed phase while the ‘outside’

as sticky, greasy, heavy, hard to stabilise and

phase is referred to as the continuous phase.

expensive. However, scientific advances have

In a w/o emulsion, the water is the dispersed

addressed and counteracted these issues

phase and the oil, the continuous phase. W/o

over time. It is now possible to easily produce

offers a number of practical advantages,

w/o emulsions that are cost-effective, easy

because the oil is on the “outside”. For

to stabilise, fast absorbing, feel light on skin

example, the end-product feels oily to the

(where required), and are non-tacky. These

touch – this is commonly experienced with

factors are addressed by two main components

sunscreens. The characteristic enables water

of the formulation, being the choice of

resistance, which is why w/o is the preferred

emulsifier and the selection of emollients.

emulsion type for sunscreens, waterproof

AECI Specialty Chemicals has a solution

Because these emulsions can be designed with such large quantities of oil, makes them perfect for certain hair care products to the final emulsion viscosity, due to the oil phase being the continuous phase. This means

for both of these ingredient types. Its easy-

that adding cosmetic waxes, butters and even

to-use w/o emulsifier base is supplied in a

petrolatum, will significantly alter the structure

so w/o emulsions are great for problematic

viscous liquid format and is used at very low

of the emulsion, allowing applications like

skin, prone to psoriasis, eczema and dryness.

dosages between 1.8% and 3%.

beauty balms and body butters.

makeup and barrier creams. The lipid barrier also locks in moisture,

QUARTER 4 2021 // P&C AFRICA

FRUGAL INNOVATION

Table 1: Cost-effective tissue oil lotion

Phase

Ingredient Water

Mass % 86.7

Sodium Chloride

Glycerine

W/O Emulsifier Base 3

Mineral Oil

Petroleum Jelly

PE 91

0.8

Fragrance

0.5

METHOD OF MANUFACTURE: 1. In separate vessel, add phase A ingredients (water soluble) in the order stipulated and mix after addition. 2. Heat the water phase to 70°C. 3. In the main mixing vessel, add Phase B ingredients (oily). 4. Heat the oil phase to 75°C. 5. Under high shear add 20% of phase A to phase B. 6. Ensure emulsion inversion occurs. 7. Add the balance of phase A and continue to homogenise until a thick cream is formed. 8. Ensure that phase A is completely emulsified.

Imagine combining a blend of nourishing oils that are highly favoured by consumers … and saving costs in the process

EQUALLY BENEFICIAL FOR HAIR CARE Of course, the technology is not limited to skin care. Because these emulsions can be designed with such large quantities of oil, makes them perfect for certain hair care products such as oil moisturisers, masks, hair foods and serums. Imagine combining a blend of nourishing oils that are highly favoured by consumers, such as argan oil, coconut oil, Abyssinian oil and sapote oil, and saving costs in the process. The cost savings are made possible by the emulsifier, which allows for water to be included in the formulation without hampering the

The choice of emollient is critical to the sensory experience of a final product. Selecting more volatile emollients with high spreading coefficients, such as silicones, squalanes and certain alkanes, achieves light emulsions that penetrate the skin easily. Similarly, when more occlusive

performance of the oils. Table 1 features an example of a formulation for a highly cost-effective tissue oil lotion. The formulation uses minimal ingredients and yet it yields a beautifully glossy, rich cream that radiantly moisturises the skin. •

emollients are used, like mineral oil and certain vegetable oils, heavier emulsions are created. A heavier emulsion performs better at preventing transepidermal water loss, effectively increasing moisturisation.

AECI Specialty Chemicals – jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com or thureya.sarlie@aeciworld.com

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2021

FRUGAL INNOVATION

Rambutan programme highlights the potential of frugal innovation By its definition, the word ‘frugal’ points to reducing waste and using resources less wastefully. Ultimately, cost savings and a simplification of processes should come from this. In the context of the cosmetics industry, it has highlighted the need for more responsible sourcing of raw materials. BASF’s rambutan programme remains an excellent example of what frugal innovation can achieve.

S A SOCIALLY and environmentally

substances from the rambutan

responsible supply chain for the

plant material.

sustainable production of bio-actives, the

“Plants are at the heart of BASF’s value

rambutan programme sees BASF working in close

proposition. Our commitment to further improving

cooperation with partners in Vietnam.

our sourcing network drives innovation within

BASF sources the ingredients, which are

the business to develop new products from

extracted from rambutan trees (Nephelium

sustainably sourced plants,” says Lucilene Veira

lappaceum), growing in Vietnam’s first organically

Nunes, head of business management beauty

certified rambutan gardens. Through this

care solutions Europe. “We have harnessed the

programme, BASF has a positive impact on

experience gained from our argan programme,

Vietnamese rural society by upcycling different

which was started in 2005 in Southern Morocco,

parts of the tree, other than the fruit. The

to enhance the rambutan programme.”

programme also ensures gender equity among the Vietnamese workers, who receive a fair income, are guaranteed safer working conditions and provided with health insurance. For brand owners and manufacturers, the rambutan programme provides a means to respond to demands for responsible beauty and the ecoresponsible aspirations of today’s consumers.

The rambutan programme provides a means to respond to demands for responsible beauty In 2015, BASF set up the rambutan

Did you know? Approximately 200 rambutan trees grow in the two gardens selected by BASF for the programme. When cultivated well, the trees can live for up to 100 years, providing rural communities in the Dong Nai province, in Southeast Vietnam, with a reliable income stream for years to come. throughout the year, harvests fruit and prepares all the raw materials for the extraction of the bioactive ingredients. The rambutan is a close relative of lychee tree. In Asia, it is known for various powerful benefits. The tree’s juicy fruits are rich in iron, vitamin C, fibres and antioxidants, and have long been used to quell dysentery. The rinds contain various compounds with antioxidant properties and the seeds are known to decrease

IN SUPPORT OF RESPONSIBLE BEAUTY

programme, which involves a network of

unwanted fat. The pulp is said to boost energy

An interdisciplinary innovation platform

Vietnamese farmers. There is also a dedicated

and immunity, prevent disease and contribute

at BASF focuses exclusively on extracting valuable

rambutan team, which maintains the gardens

to eliminating free radicals.

QUARTER 4 2021 // P&C AFRICA

FRUGAL INNOVATION

BASF has found a way to extract the powers

This infographic shows how the extraction and purification process ensures zero waste

of the peel, leaves and seeds, utilising all the components while ensuring zero waste. The three bio-actives – Nephydrat, Nephoria and Rambuvital – are produced from the extracts for use in cosmetic products. The bio-actives are preservative-free, 100% of natural origin and COSMOS-approved. BASF’s unique extraction and purification process yields a product with standardised active matter content. For the seed and leaf extracts, a combination of maltodextrin and spray drying delivers concentrated extracts with a recommended use level in formulations of only 0.1%. The recommended use level of the liquid peel extract is 2%.

PEEL EXTRACT FOR SKIN HYDRATION Nephydrat, an extract from the spiny fruit peel, reinforces the skin’s capacity for water retention and helps to hydrate the skin. This noticeable effect has been proven in tests on volunteers. The extract fuels keratinocytes with energy and increases phospholipids and long chain ceramide synthesis for an optimal skin barrier function. Nephydrat provides measurable and perceivable benefits of increased skin hydration and a uniform, fresh complexion.

LEAF EXTRACT FOR SKIN REJUVENATION

The peel of the fruit with its spikey tentacles is prized for having a high content of antioxidants

The extract of evergreen-leaves, Nephoria

SEED EXTRACT FOR SCALP AND HAIR

keratinocytes. In vivo study results showed a

helps promote the rejuvenation of mature skin

The seed extract Rambuvital protects

significant increase in scalp hydration within

through biological pathways similar to those

both the scalp and hair follicles against

one month of applying a Rambuvital-based

of retinol. Acting on several major biological

pollution-induced stress. It increases hair

treatment while the hair appeared and felt

targets involved in collagen synthesis and

follicle vitality and reduces sebum oxidation

visibly healthier and shinier. •

the elastin fibre network, the leaf extract

triggered by exposure to pollutants and UV.

stimulates in vitro the formation collagen and elastin fibres. In vivo study results showed Nephoria increased skin elasticity and reduced wrinkles.

The seed extract enhances the cornified scalp’s barrier function, contributing to water retention by increasing transglutaminase-1 and loricrin synthesis in

BASF Care Creations – www.carecreations.basf.com Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2021

INDUSTRY TALK

Rebound in oil, vaccines and trade expected to drive growth in North Africa

The African Development Bank released its 2021 edition of the North Africa Economic Outlook on 3 November. The report highlights real gross domestic product growth in North Africa, which was largely negative in 2020, at -1.1% with a -5.1% point drop over 2019.

experienced three shocks: the COVID-19

LASTING EFFECTS ON POVERTY AND EQUALITY

pandemic; a collapse in oil prices and a

The COVID-19 pandemic has markedly reduced

N 2020, NORTH African economies

steep drop in tourism. Growth was also cut

the resilience of North African countries,

short due, in part, to sharp contractions in the

according to the report. The global crisis has

region’s main trading partners. This output

also significantly eroded fiscal space. Amid

loss was found to be less severe than

prospects for a protracted recovery in key

projected on account of prompt interventions

sources of income for the region – oil and

by governments to mitigate the impacts of

tourism – oil exporters faced a double impact

the pandemic.

brought about by lockdowns and severe oil

The economic outlook report states that Egypt achieved positive growth (+3.6%). It is one of the few countries worldwide that managed to do so in 2020. On the other hand, Libya’s

North Africa’s financing needs are estimated to exceed $180bn to adequately respond to the crisis and support recovery

market fluctuations. This was particularly the

Did you know? In 2020, 30 million Africans were pushed into extreme poverty and an estimated 39 million have been made poorer in 2021 as a result of the pandemic. Though Africa has been relatively spared the health consequences of COVID-19, the socioeconomic costs have been very high. Source: AfDB 2021

case for Libya. If the pandemic continues into 2022 and beyond, the report says that some countries

equitable growth while avoiding further

will likely face liquidity problems in servicing

deterioration of fiscal and debt.

their debt repayments. Over the period between are estimated to exceed $180bn to adequately

SHORT-, MEDIUM- AND LONG-TERM SOLUTIONS

respond to the crisis and support recovery.

In the short term, the report proposes various

Strained fiscal positions will limit government

measures for damage management. The African

support measures in many countries. Much

Development Bank recommends, among other

more emphasis will be placed on ambitious

things, limiting the spread of COVID-19, providing

reforms to rekindle robust, sustainable,

relief for vulnerable populations, overcoming

2021 and 2023, North Africa’s financing needs

vaccine-related challenges and developing economy contracted by -60.3%, Tunisia’s by -8.8%, Morocco’s by -7.1%, Algeria’s by -4.6% and Mauritania’s by 3.6%. Overall, macroeconomic variables of regional

capacity for debt sustainability analyses. Some of the medium-term proposals include investing in digitalisation, supporting small and medium enterprises and enhancing domestic

countries deteriorated. The average fiscal

resource mobilisation. Economic and export

deficit nearly doubled (from 5.7% of GDP in

diversification requires attention in the long

2019 to 11.6% in 2020), and the current account

term, along with investing in public goods to

deficit extended from 4.9% to 8.8% of GDP.

ease regional disparities and foster inclusive growth. The report also calls for the deepening of regional integration in the context of the African Continental Free Trade Area agreement. The African Development Bank’s 2021 North Africa Economic Outlook is available online. Click on the link to view or download the full report: https://bit.ly/3Io4YRI. •

QUARTER 4 2021 // P&C AFRICA

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Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa Q4 2021

Articles inside

Rambutan programme highlights the potential of frugal innovation

The beauty and cost-saving benefits of inverse emulsions

Fast and GMP-compliant labeling

Solutions to protect pharmaceutical packaging

Joybliss - a plumping ingredient inspired by the wheel of life

How indie beauty brands can meet consumers’ expectations post-COVID-19

Adressing sustainability in the ingredients supply chain