INSIDE: Suppliers, manufacturers & beauty brands do their part to fight COVID-19
APRIL 2020 | Volume 47 | Number 4
www.pharmacos.co.za
“Symrise achieved all its 2019 targets with the Fragrances Division witnessing particularly dynamic growth and strong demand for fine fragrance products�
ETHNIC CARE Beauty with brains & scintillating science
PHARMA FOCUS The vital role of the digital revolution
HOME CARE Technologies to ensure hygiene in the home
Brenntag Cosmetics Division is composed of a dedicated team committed to discovering innovative solutions We have built an outstanding reputation for providing superior, solution-oriented support to exceed the needs and expectations of our partners, and our sales representatives and technicians are renowned for their professional demeanor and expertise. Brenntag will help you fulfill the industry’s most stringent requirements and regulations. Our in-house market experts will keep you ahead of the curve on new products and emerging industry trends. Enjoy access to our renowned technical and industry expertise as well as our extensive line-up of products.
CONTACT: Courtney Holley Business Development Manager Direct: +27(0) 10 020 9122 Mobile: +27(0) 82 606 8105 Email: courtney.holley@brenntag.co.za www.brenntag.com/en-za
Acidulants | Actives | Alcohols | Alkalies | Anti-Caking Agents | Antimicrobials | Antioxidants | Butters | Chelating Agents | Conditioning Agents | Dyes and Pigments | Emollients | Emulsifiers | Essential oils | Exfolliant | Extracts | Fatty Acids | Flavour | Humectants | Opacifiers | PH Regulators | Preservatives | Phospates | Rheology Modifiers | Salts and Peroxygen Liquids | Seeds and Meals | Surfactants | Sweeteners | Thickeners | UV Filters | Vitamins | Waxes | White Oils
Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
April 2020 | Volume 47 | Number 4
w w w.pharmacos.co. za
6 NEWS
L’Oréal joins the fight against COVID-19
Mondi adapts to produce face mask components
Wacker Biotech introduces Libatec
8 PRODUCT NEWS
What’s new in South Africa
11 EVENTS
26 PHARMA FOCUS: TECHNOLOGY & SOFTWARE SOLUTIONS
Peppina installs SAP Business One
Level up with Zetes serialisation solutions
29 INSTALLATION
Acorn Group announces facility upgrades
Insight into labelling requirements
16 CLOSURES, PUMPS & DISPENSERS
Strong, profitable and confident about the future
HPCI expo and Coschem conference joins forces again
12 INDUSTRY TALK
14
Alpla breaks ground in Lanseria
30 HOME CARE
Bleach systems to deliver hygiene benefits
How to use texture as a differentiator
Stepan’s bio-based cleaning technology
Climate friendly detergent polymer from Clariant
17 ETHNIC CARE
New natural emollient from Vantage
A look at the waterless beauty boom
Seppic addresses hyperpigmentation
Skinarch and the art of building collagen
Natural ingredients from AECI Specialty Chemicals
The butterfly effect
36
35
Plant hygiene – a vital part of the production process 35 SAFETY & HYGIENE
Why hygiene audits are necessary
36 STUDENT FOCUS P C Review/Coschem essay prize winner: The butterfly effect
P C Review | APRIL 2020 |
3
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
From the editor
THE TEAM EDITORIAL
Beauty industry steps up to fight COVID-19
A
Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti Sub-editor: Katrien Smit Contributors: Eve De Maesschalck, Davina Pillay, Jacques Strydom, Jane Mathews, Roné Rudman, Yashmay Gordhon ADVERTISING
lthough COVID-19 has been
hospitals and federal institutions in Germany’s
a household name since the
Hannover region. In a press release, Unilever
outbreak was first reported in
stated it’s pledged €100 million to global
November 2019, the coronavirus
health organisations and agencies in the
only recently became a factor in the personal
form of donations of soap, sanitiser, bleach
and home care industries.
and food.
It’s changed our day to day existence and
While South Africa is currently in lockdown,
Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za
magnified consumers’ perception of hand
at New Media we are fortunate to remain
INTERNATIONAL SALES
hygiene. Soap, as a result of the increased
operational with our teams working remotely.
handwashing, and hand sanitisers have been
This makes it possible for us to bring you the
front and centre of the global pandemic. Yet,
April edition of P C Review, first in digital format
Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de
the demand for hand sanitisers in South Africa
with the printed edition to follow as soon as
and around the world continues to outstrip
lockdown ends.
supply. It’s been amazing to see the personal
This month, on page 12 the CTFA shares
Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk
care industry’s response to help in the fight
insight into the latest labelling requirements
against COVID-19, by stepping up to produce
for personal care products and cosmetics.
hand sanitiser products which are supplied
In our pharma focus on page 26, we look
CIRCULATION
free of charge to those in need.
at how Peppina is driving profitable growth
Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za
At various manufacturing plants around
by installing SAP Business One and Zetes
the globe, including Kenya, L’Oréal’s teams
explains the ins and outs of serialisation and
have put in place new processes to produce
aggregation in the South African context.
hundreds of tonnes of hand sanitiser. Louis
In the home care feature on page 30, you
Vuitton owner LVMH, which produces
can read about bleach systems to deliver
perfumes by Dior and Givenchy as well as
hygiene benefits, how to use texture as a
Moët & Chandon champagne, has been
differentiator and two new bio-based cleaning
using its perfume production lines to produce
technologies from international suppliers. The
12t of free hydroalcoholic gel (hand sanitiser)
P C Review team wishes our valued readers
for French hospitals.
and clients good health, safety, resilience and
On LinkedIn, Beiersdorf posted about its efforts in Thailand, where the personal care
positivity during the uncertain times brought about by the spread of the coronavirus.
brand is producing medical-grade Nivea hand sanitisers, which will be delivered free of
Take care and enjoy the read.
PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd MANAGEMENT TEAM MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb
charge to more than 1 000 hospitals, various
COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis
foundations, orphanages and underprivileged
BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley
children in the region. Symrise also posted
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone
about its efforts on LinkedIn, saying the global
CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson
producer of fragrances and flavours had
HEAD OFFICE
received special permission from authorities
New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
to produce and distribute sanitiser for use in
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
John Knowlton
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University
Vivian Frittelli
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo
P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
4 | APRIL
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
2020 | P C Review
COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by Novus Print - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
Mondi has adapted a production line in Germany to make a much-needed component for face masks
NEWS
CTFA postpones cosmetics industry summit THE COSMETIC, TOILETRIES & Fragrance Association (CTFA) announced in March it would be postponing The Cosmetics Industry Summit ‘Breaking Barriers in Africa’, scheduled to take place on 13 and 14 May 2020 at The IDC Conference Centre, in Sandton, Johannesburg, South Africa. Given the rise of public health concerns over the coronavirus (COVID-19), the continuous spread of the disease and the many implications on business activities including travel restrictions and bans, the organisers had to take the difficult decision to postpone
the event to a date when such concerns no longer prevail. Under the current circumstances, the organisers are not able to provide the experience they had wished for and believe its most important to guarantee the safety of all. Logistics will be communicated to presenters and all who have registered. The organisers apologise for the inconvenience. However, the safety of both speakers and delegates is of paramount importance and must be taken with the utmost seriousness, given the global circumstances that we currently face.
L’Oréal joins the fight against COVID-19 FOR SEVERAL WEEKS, L’Oréal’s teams have been implementing plans to support the fight against coronavirus. According to a LinkedIn post shared by the global beauty brand, new processes are in place at its plants across the world and its teams are working to produce hundreds of tonnes of hand sanitiser, which will be delivered free of charge to hospitals, pharmacies, care homes and food stores. The post also mentioned L’Oréal’s teams will keep providing the complimentary hand sanitiser as long as it’s needed. L’Oréal thank all its teams in Europe, North America, Asia, Latin America and Africa for producing the hand sanitisers daily. L’Oréal Kenya has also joined the group’s worldwide efforts, working around the clock to produce Nice & Lovely Hand Sanitisers, which will be delivered free of charge to first line medical teams and supermarket staff across the country.
L’Oréal teams in its plant in Karlsruhe, Germany have produced 100 tonnes of hand sanitiser to donate to hospitals and other healthcare institutions. “I’m very proud of the teams in Karlsruhe; they are fully committed and coming every day to the plant to help protect the ones fighting on the front lines. A big thank you to our supply chain community and all our packaging and supply partners who have demonstrated their incredible agility by developing, producing and supplying us in this difficult context,” Paulina Jurkiewicz, director of L’Oréal’s Karlsruhe plant, commented on LinkedIn. L’Oréal Mexico has also been producing hand sanitiser, with a clear goal of donating an initial 300 000 units to hospitals and public transportation. Additional units will be delivered to collaborators, providers, clients and NGOs throughout Mexico.
Nice & Lovely Hand Sanitisers produced at L’Oréal Kenya (source: LinkedIn)
6 | APRIL
2020 | P C Review
Mondi adapts production line to produce face mask components DURING THE COVID-19 outbreak, Mondi is committed to playing its part to produce important supplies and components. As a global leader in packaging and paper, Mondi’s personal care components team has found a way to convert a production line at its Gronau plant in Germany to manufacture soft, elastic straps which are now being used for face masks, by medical professionals and consumers globally. Mondi’s plant in Gronau typically focuses on making materials used in hygiene products such as nappies, adult incontinence pads and feminine care items. However, the team quickly adapted one of its manufacturing lines to produce a three-layer, laminated strap that binds a stretchable plastic film between layers of soft, nonwoven material. The straps, which Mondi supplies to its maskmaking customers on a reel, are then cut and attached to each side of a mask, which can loop comfortably over the user’s ears to hold the mask in place. This elastic material replaces a rubberised band that holds the mask to the face, increasing the operational speed of the machines in comparison to rubber, which is slower to produce. “Mondi Gronau is working to provide straps that will fit more than one billion nonwoven face masks. As there is increasing need for these types of face masks, we are building up our capability to meet the demand. By producing this soft elastic strap, we are able to produce more volume to meet growing demand,” says Dr Michael Trinkaus, director of R&D and application engineering for Mondi’s personal care components division. Mondi also operates a plant in Taicang, China, that laminates film made in Gronau to make nonwoven hygiene products similar to those manufactured in Germany. While closely monitoring developments, assessing risks and implementing preventative policies in line with the government regulations and recommendations in the region, the company was able to meet orders for mask straps from customers in China when the COVID-19 virus epidemic first broke out. Demand is now growing for more of such supplies from customers across Europe, prompting the Gronau plant to increase the production of this material.
Plant-based tech used in viable COVID-19 vaccine development MEDICAGO, A BIOPHARMACEUTICAL company headquartered in Quebec City, has successfully produced viruslike particles (VLP) of the coronavirus in just 20 days using proprietary plantbased technology. The company did so successfully after obtaining the SARSCoV-2 gene, which is the virus causing the COVID-19 disease. Production of the VLP is the first step in developing a vaccine for COVID-19, which will now undergo preclinical testing for safety and efficacy. Once this is completed, Medicago expects to discuss with the appropriate Health Agencies to initiate human trials of the vaccine by July/August 2020. Medicago has previously demonstrated its capability to be a first responder during a flu pandemic. In 2009, the company produced a research-grade vaccine candidate against H1N1 in just 19 days. In 2012, Medicago manufactured 10 million
doses of a monovalent influenza vaccine within one month for the US Department of Defence. In 2015, the company also demonstrated it could rapidly produce an anti-Ebola monoclonal antibody cocktail for the US Biomedical Advanced Research and Development Authority. “The pace of our initial progress in COVID-19 is attributable to the capability of our plant-based platform, which is able to produce vaccine and antibody solutions to counteract this global public health threat. The ability to produce a candidate vaccine within 20 days after obtaining the gene is a critical differentiator for our proven technology. This technology enables scaleup at unprecedented speed to potentially combat COVID-19,” says Dr Bruce Clark, CEO of Medicago. Dr Gary Kobinger, professor in the Department of Microbiology and Infectious Diseases and the director of the Infectious Disease Research Centre at Laval University, adds: “The collaborative efforts established between the research team at Laval University and Medicago have been very successful in developing unique antibodies against infectious diseases such as RSV and HMPV, and that experience gives us confidence for successful identification of therapeutic antibodies against SARS-CoV-2.”
SAMI-SABINSA GROUP SCOOPS THREE IMPRESSIVE AWARDS ON 28 FEBRUARY, the SamiSabinsa Group was honoured with three awards by the Associated Chambers of Commerce and Industry of India (ASSOCHAM) at the third edition of its Beauty, Wellness and Personal Care Awards, in New Delhi. ASSOCHAM acknowledged the group’s founder and chairman, Dr Muhammed Majeed, for his immense contribution to shaping the Indian cosmeceutical industry, by presenting him with the Legend of Natural Cosmeceuticals award. The group also received accolades for Best Personal Care Product of the Year 2020 for its premium beauty product, Johara Turmeric Bath Soap, and Best Cosmetic Ingredient Manufacturer of the Year for Sami Labs. “It’s a tremendous honour to receive this award from ASSOCHAM.
The Ayurveda-based approach to cosmetics has inspired formulations containing herbs and other natural ingredients that form an integral part of daily skin care regimens. Highly regarded and valued, these products reaffirm the vast knowledge of the ancient Indian traditional system of medicine by providing excellent results. Johara is a scientifically driven brand crafted from years of meticulous research and utilising time-tested botanical ingredients,” says Dr Majeed. The Sami-Sabinsa Group was previously honoured by ASSOCHAM and the Johara Cosmetics division in 2018. ASSOCHAM’s Beauty, Wellness and Personal Care Awards celebrate those who have consistently met the unique beauty and wellness needs of multicultural Indians. The star-studded event recognises individuals, organisations and brands that have achieved excellence in the fields of cosmetics, wellness and personal care. Dr Majeed received the award from Sandeep Marwah, chancellor at AAFT University of Media & Art and Jennifer Graham, spouse of Nadir Patel of the Canadian High Commission of India
NEWS
Africa’s first natural products expo postponed AS THE SPREAD of coronavirus intensifies, so do the cancellation and postponement of business, social and sporting events. The Organic and Natural Products Expo (ONPE) Africa is the latest local industry event to be postponed due to COVID-19. Due to the unfortunate and unforeseen events unfolding globally due to the spread of coronavirus, the organisers of the inaugural Organic and Natural Products Expo Africa have decided to postpone the event with immediate effect. “This is a sad state of affairs, as we have had such a positive response and outstanding support from so many quarters. We have made this decision bearing in mind the safety of our exhibitors, visitors, partners and their friends and families, and also to do our part in stopping the spread of the coronavirus,” says event director, John Thomson. “We will be confirming our new dates in due course from our website and social media pages,” he adds. “The new dates will be based on the trajectory of the coronavirus and how it affects the world and South Africa.” The Organic and Natural Products Expo Africa would like to take this opportunity to thank all of its exhibitors and partners. The organising team kindly requests that you continue to follow its social media pages and website, www.organicandnaturalexpo.com, where it will keep you updated on new developments and the revised dates for the show.
Wacker Biotech introduces Libatec UNDER THE BRAND name Libatec, Wacker Biotech is now marketing its technology platform for developing and manufacturing live microbial products (LMPs). These are a promising class of therapeutic products, which open the door to new medical treatments. The Wacker group is bundling its biopharmaceutical activities within Wacker Biotech, a contract development and manufacturing organisation, notable for its innovative technologies. LMPs, or pharmaceuticals that contain living micro-organisms, are an area of growing interest for many manufacturers. The purpose of these live actives is to cure or prevent a wide variety of diseases, including infectious diseases, cancer, inflammatory and metabolic diseases, dermatological diseases and more. “What we have here is a new generation of medications from laboratory direct to a clinical setting. This will generate major growth opportunities for us as a microbial contract manufacturer and for our customers,” says Dr Susanne Leonhartsberger, MD of Wacker Biotech. The development and production of LMPs at Wacker Biotech are based on an efficient, comprehensive production platform known as Libatec. The first step in manufacturing LMPs is to grow bacteria in a culture medium
Wacker Biotech’s facility in Amsterdam where LMPs are produced in large stainless steel fermenters
in small bioreactors. This is followed by fermentation in larger reactors, during which the actual production of microorganisms takes place. In a multi-stage process, the organisms obtained are subsequently separated from undesirable constituents, and then purified and concentrated. One of the many challenges in the LMP production process is that sterile filtration is not an option, since LMPs consist of living micro-organisms, which would not survive the process. The final step involves converting the finished LMP to a stable form, followed by dispensing, packaging and preparing it for transport. A fill and finish plant, including freeze-drying equipment (lyophilisation), is available for this purpose at the Amsterdam site. “This allows us to offer a completely closed production system, which is a deciding factor in meeting the quality requirements of regulatory agencies and our customers,” concludes Dr Leonhartsberger.
| APRIL | 7 Review | APRIL 2020 2020 | P PCCReview 7
STREET 1
Plump up your lips
Cutting edge cosmetics house, DW & Co Cosmetics launched its new generation lip voltage plumping gloss with an improved dispensing system. Lip Voltage is said to be the most advanced peptide and collagen formulation concept in lip plumping. With six formulations to choose from, you can customise to your own tingle sensation with the brand-new pre-priming pump. Lip Voltage contains a clinically proven formulation of peptides that builds collagen and expands the lip tissue over 25 to 30 days of continuous use, when using the product once to twice daily.
1
2 Serums to hydrate and brighten skin
Beauty Worx facial serums work collectively to control, maintain and protect the skin. Each serum caters to specific skin care needs. These serums are suitable for those with sensitive skin and help hydrate, brighten, reduce fine line
4
lines and wrinkles while soothing redness, addressing acne, preventing sun damage and reducing the signs of ageing. The serums on offer include rosehip and castor oil, tea tree and collagen, retinol complex, hemp and collagen, hyaluronic acid face serum and a soften + glow one.
3 CBD skin care from DermaFix DermaFix has introced three new products, DermaPrep Pre Cleanse, ActiveCellCeuticals Retinol +, and a CBD Lotion, formulated with organic Swiss CBD. Said to be making waves in the skin care industry, Swiss CBD is a highly sought-after ingredient for innovative formulations. DermaFix CBD Lotion
2
offers antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and skin calming properties. It also hydrates and soothes irritated skin, making it perfect for use on problematic skin.
4 2 in 1 skin cleanser Optiphi’s Pure Exfoliating Wash is a multi-targeted cleansing product ideal for sensitive, reactive skin and bearded skins. Formulated with gentle, calming, bio-degradable beads and vitamin B5, the wash offers physical and chemical exfoliating benefits. The micro-plastic free beads release D-panthenol (vitamin B5), which improves corneum hydration, reduces
3
transepidermal water loss and maintains skin softness and elasticity. Malic acid in the cleanser offers a humectant benefit, resulting in a more hydrated and supple skin.
5 Childs Farm now available in SA The popular and multi-award winning UK-based baby care brand, Childs Farm has been introduced locally in Baby City stores nationwide; select Clicks, Pick ‘n Pay and Babies R Us stores; select Checkers stores in Gauteng, and on www.takealot.com and www.babiesafrica.com. The products are designed for all skin types, including sensitive and even eczema-prone skin. They are also clinically proven to be suitable for new-borns and upwards, and all products have been paediatrician and dermatologist approved. The range includes a
8 | APRIL 8
2020 | P C Review
baby wash, nappy cream, shampoo, bubble bath and moisturiser.
5
Launched a new product in 2019/20
Make a
Statement about it 2020
New Product Competition
ENTRIES NOW OPEN C o n t a c t A b b y V o r s t e r : A b b y .V o r s t e r @ n e w m e d i a . c o . z a | + 2 7 ( 0 )11 8 7 7 6 0 3 8
DIARY
WHAT'S ON IN RE V IE W
ood f
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
2020
SOUTH AFRICAN
May interpack 2020
7 to 13 May Messe Düsseldorf www.interpack.com
2020 SUBSCRIPTION FORM Please complete in block letters, select your subscription option, and return this form, along with your payment to:
Organic & Natural Products Expo Africa 8 to 10 May The Deck, Wanderers Stadium, Joburg www.organicandnaturalexpo.com
NEW MEDIA, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd, PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Email: felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za
SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONS (please tick) 1 YEAR Food Review Pharmaceutical
Cosmetic Review
Food Review + Pharmaceutical
Cosmetic Review
Cosmetics Industry Summit
2 YEAR
R588
R905
R588 R1066
R905 R1620
13 to 14 May IDC, Sandton, Joburg www.ctfa.co.za
BeautyWorld Middle East
31 May to 2 June Dubai, UAE www.beautyworld.messefrankfurt.com
Full Name:........................................................................................... Designation: ........................................................................................ Company: ........................................................................................... Postal Address:................................................................................... .................................................................Code:................................. Country: .............................................................................................. Tel: (
)....................................... Fax: (
) ..................................
E-mail:................................................................................................. Main activity of company:................................................................... Approximate number of employees: .................................................. VAT No: ............................................................................................... ❑ I would like to receive the newsletters and feature announcements via email and may be added to the mailing lists. Signature:............................................................................................
Please select your preferred method of payment:
❑
Direct Deposit (Complete and email this form to: felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za
Payee:
Bank:
Acc No:
New Media Publishing (Pty) Ltd .
Nedbank Seapoint
BIO International Convention 8 to 11 June Virtual event www.bio.org/events/bio-digital
in-cosmetics Global
30 June to 2 July Barcelona, Spain www.in-cosmetics.com/global
July
Expiry Date: ................................................................................
Interphex 2020
CVC Number............................................................................... Date: ........................................................................................... Signature:.................................................................................... TAX INVOICE REQUIRED Note: The above prices are applicable to South Africa only. International rates available on request.
10
7 June Durban, South Africa www.probeauty.co.za/dbn
Name of card: .............................................................................
Credit Card (Mastercard & Visa only)
Card Number: .............................................................................
❑
Professional Beauty Expo, Durban
1069321540
Branch Code: 10-69-09-00
❑
June
| APRIL 2020 | P C Review
15 to 17 July Javits Center, NYC, USA www.interphex.com
Cosmo Tech Expo
22 to 23 July Pragati Maidan, New Delhi www.cosmotechexpoindia.com
EVENTS
HPCI South Africa offers access to an important growth market The second edition of HPCI South Africa will again be held in conjunction with the annual scientific conference of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem). Both events are scheduled to take place in South Africa on 9 and 10 September at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand.
H
PCI is exclusively devoted to ingredients for home and personal care products,
Six reasons to attend HPCI South Africa:
particularly those unique to
the African continent. The expo made its debut in South Africa in 2019, where it opened with 87 exhibitors, including representation from international companies, and was attended by more than 500 experts and buyers from the household products and personal care
encouraged to submit abstracts for the home care seminar. The organisers have announced the
• keep on top of ingredients trends • compare and source new products and services • save time and minimise formulation costs • gain access to industry thought leaders • network and connect with peers • fuel your creativity.
markets. Visitors and exhibitors were
call high-level technical presentations, showcasing latest research and results that highlight advancements in ingredients, formulations, legislation and safety pertinent to the home care market. The deadline for title and abstract submissions is 31 May; notifications of acceptance will be distributed by 15 June.
equally satisfied with this premiere. The 2020 instalment of the exhibition
institutes are invited and strongly
Interested parties should send an email to scientific conference. If you are
sonja.schulte@vincentz.net to submit their
provides an ideal opportunity for South
interested in presenting a paper or poster
title and abstract of 250 words.
African and international suppliers,
at the conference, kindly send an email
manufacturers and agents to network
to bridget@coschem.co.za for more
together with the HPCI South Africa
whilst stimulating growth and trade. As
information on submitting your abstract.
exhibition offer a truly exclusive and
South Africa is the gateway to Africa,
The deadline for submissions is 22 June.
unique opportunity to meet peers from
participants from all over the continent
Conference registrations are also open
The Coschem scientific conference
many African countries and gain new
as well as a global contingency are
with the early bird registration rate on
insights in the innovations of the industry.
expected to visit this year’s expo. Major
offer until 17 July. Another highlight of the
Exhibitors can also book space. Please
local and international suppliers have
conference is the annual gala dinner,
visit www.hpci-events.com/south-africa
already announced their participation.
which takes place on 10 September at
for more information. •
Scientific conference The Coschem scientific conference
Montecasino in Johannesburg, South Africa. The theme for this year’s gala dinner is the Greatest Showman.
will offer an extensive programme of lectures focusing on the dissemination
Safety assessor seminar
of scientific information, in line with the
Additional educational content will be
theme ‘2020 The Beauty Odyssey’.
provided by the DGK/IKW safety assessor
Speakers from South Africa and other
seminar. This seminar is organised with
global markets will share presentations
the support of the Cosmetic, Toiletries &
New in 2020 at HPCI South Africa is a seminar on the show floor, devoted exclusively to detergents and home care products
Fragrance Association South Africa.
Home care in focus New in 2020 at HPCI South Africa is a seminar on the show floor, devoted exclusively to detergents and home care products. At this exclusive event,
outlining new research, developments
the latest developments in surfactants
and new materials that can be brought
and sustainable formulations for
to market.
household products will be introduced.
Coschem has announced the call for papers and posters for the annual
Innovative exhibiting companies as well as academic or governmental research
P C Review | APRIL 2020 | 11
INDUSTRY TALK
Clear, concise and compliant Across industries, consumers have become increasingly information hungry and technologically savvy. This has contributed to the need to ensure that accurate information is present at the point of purchase. By Yashmay Gordhon
P
art of this consumer evolution
QUICK LINKS
means that consumers are more aware of ingredients that may
ARB – www.arb.org.za
be undesirable, either due to
CTFA – www.ctfa.co.za
personal choice or potential undesirable
DOH – www.health.gov.za
effects caused by specific medical
NRCS – www.nrcs.org.za
predispositions. The industry has also
SABS – www.sabs.co.za
experienced a trend towards products containing ingredients considered more desirable, such as those that are
products; Advertising Code of Practice;
Ingredient listing
‘natural’ and ‘organic’.
SANS 289: Labelling Requirements for
The ingredient listing is vital, as
Consumers have also become more
Pre-packaged Products (pre-packages)
it provides the consumer with
aware of the advertising of products
and General Requirements for the Sale
information on the content of the
and label claims on packaging. With
of Good subject to Legal Metrology
product. Although the DOH Draft
the explosion of the digital space, the
Control; Legal metrology Act; etc.
Regulations take precedence over
modern consumer has access to many
The Government Notice R 1469 draft
other guidelines, the South African
more information than ever before
Regulations Relating to Labelling,
Bureau of Standards also outlines
on what is acceptable or not, and an
Advertising and Composition of Cosmetics
labelling requirements in SANS 98. As a
increased appetite to question any
(DOH Draft Regulations) Regulation 8:
minimum requirement, the ingredient
claims made by brands.
Labelling outlines and lists the requirements
listing must be present on the label
for the primary and secondary package of
preceded by the word, ‘ingredients’.
To meet consumers’ expectations while complying with regulatory
a cosmetic product.
Provision is made for smaller packages, allowing the information
requirements, companies placing
The primary container or packaging
cosmetic products on the market
should contain the following information:
to be included on an attached
should have an awareness and
• name of the cosmetic
leaflet, label, inlay, tape, tag or card
understanding of standards, guidelines,
• country of origin for
(as per Regulation 8.3 of DOH Draft
regulations and best practice within the
imported cosmetics
Regulations), either enclosed with
South African context. As an industry
• date of minimum durability
the cosmetic, or on a notice in close
association, the Cosmetic, Toiletry &
• batch number or lot number of
proximity to the container in which the
Fragrance Association (CTFA) advises
the product
cosmetic product is exposed for sale
on such matters. It also promotes the
• function of the cosmetic (unless it is
(as per SANS 98).
responsibility that companies have in providing accurate and compliant label information on packaging.
clear from the presentation)
Regarding the ingredients
• particular precautions and warning
themselves, the international and
statements to be observed in use,
national standard requires that all
where applicable, and at least those
ingredients be listed according
listed in Annexes I, II, III, IV and V.
to International Nomenclature
Minimum labelling requirements
The secondary container or packaging
for Cosmetic Ingredients or INCI
A number of aspects pertaining
should contain the following:
description. This global practice
to labelling should be considered,
• the name and business address of the
ensures a uniform and globally
including the requirements outlined in the Department of Health’s (DOH) draft Regulations Relating to Labelling,
responsible person
recognised system of listing
• the nominal content at the time of
ingredients which aids the ease
packaging declared by weight
of trade between countries. INCI
Advertising and Composition of
or volume
descriptions are also recognised
Cosmetics, Government Notice R 1469;
• the list of ingredients according to
by medical professionals, who are
SANS 98: Ingredient labelling of cosmetic
INCI nomenclature.
equipped to treat adverse reactions
12 || APRIL 12 APRIL
2020 | P C Review 2020 | P C Review
INDUSTRY TALK that may be experienced by a small percentage of consumers. Trade names and common names of ingredients are not permitted on the ingredient listing as this may result in misinformation about certain ingredients, such as allergens. An example of a product label, supplied by the CTFA
Ensure safety first Along with the ingredient listing, it is also important to note that certain ingredients have a maximum use limit that is permitted. Certain ingredients are also required to be accompanied by a warning statement on the product label. It is the responsibility of the product developer to ensure the warning statement is included on the label, and that the ingredients used adhere to the relevant associated maximum allowed use limits where required. Both these aspects are important to ensure
‘slimming’ and sunscreen or sun protection
Be responsible
consumer safety.
claims that cannot be proven.
A cosmetic label often serves as the face
Please consult the Annexes of
Modern and informed consumers
of a product for a consumer deliberating
Government Notice R 1469 draft
question product claims. They have a
on which product to purchase. Besides
Regulations Relating to Labelling,
certain level of awareness about claims
the aesthetic elements, the regulatory
Advertising and Composition of
requiring valid scientific substantiation,
requirements should form a very important
Cosmetics for more information.
which plays a role in the decision-making
consideration with regards to label
process to purchase a product. It is
Product claims
content, as the impact of inaccurate
imperative that all product claims are
or incomplete information may lead to
Claims are often the most noticeable part
substantiated prior to the product being
misinformation and could possibly be
of a label, not only due to the deliberate
placed on the market.
detrimental to a brand.
consumer’s attention, but also because
Legal metrology
such regulatory matters and promotes
the product claim often influences the
In South Africa, legal metrology is enforced
responsible behaviour within the self-
purchase decision.
by the National Regulator for Compulsory
regulated framework. •
artwork and design to attract the
Product claims may convey information
CTFA continues to provide advice on
Specifications (NRCS), through the Legal
about the nature of the product, its
Metrology Act, 2014 (Act 9 of 2014). The
quality, composition and benefits it
NRCS aims to ensure that there is accuracy
REFERENCES
will provide. Both the DOH and the
with technical regulations and promotes
• Advertising Regulatory Board (2019). Cosmetic Advertising Code
Advertising Regulatory Board are explicit
harmonisation by enforcing relevant
about the nature of claims permitted and
product specifications.
The ingredient listing is vital, as it provides the consumer with information on the content of the product acceptable for cosmetics. Claims that
SANS 289 is a mandatory standard, which
convey medicinal properties are forbidden
ensures transparency to the consumer.
on cosmetics as per Regulation 9.1 in
Subsection 4.1 states that a product’s label
the DOH Draft Regulations. These claims
must include the name and address of the
mislead the consumer into believing the
business responsible for the manufacturing,
product is a medicine and can therefore
packaging, distributing, importing or
diagnose, treat, mitigate, modify or
retailing of the product. Additionally, the
prevent a disease as defined by the
unit of measurement and symbols that can
Medicines and Related Substances Act 101
appear on a cosmetic product, as well as
of 1965.
the sizes of the net quantity expressed on
Other examples of claims not permitted on cosmetics include ‘skin-lightening’,
the package and the use of ‘e-mark’, are outlined in this standard.
of Practice. • Department of Health (2017). Government Notice R 1469 draft Regulations Relating to Labelling, Advertising and Composition of Cosmetics. • Department of Trade and Industry (2014). Legal Metrology Act 9 of 2014. • South African Bureau of Standards (2012). SANS 98: Ingredient Labelling of Cosmetic Products. • South African Bureau of Standards (2016). SANS 289: Labelling Requirements for Prepackaged Products (prepackages) and General Requirements for the Sale of Good subject to Legal Metrology Control. • South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (1965). Medicines and Related Substances Control Act 101 of 1965.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR Yashmay Gordhon (MPharm) is a pharmacist, currently working as the regulatory affairs officer at the CTFA.
P C Review | APRIL 2020 |
13
COMPANY FOCUS
Strong, profitable and confident about the future Symrise continued its profitable growth course in 2019, achieving all its targets for the year. This was made possible by an 8.0% increase in group sales, amounting to 5.7% growth in organic sales. A significant portion of this growth was seen in the company’s fragrances division, which experienced strong demand for fine fragrance products.
T
aking portfolio and exchange
the year and rolled out new technologies
rate effects into account, Symrise’s
around the world. These targeted growth
in the 2019 fiscal year and significantly
sales increased by 8.0% to €3.
initiatives, combined with our disciplined
exceeded the previous year’s level, with
408 million (2018: €3. 154 million).
cost management programme, are
an ebitda(N) margin of 20.8%. As a result,
As a result, Symrise was again one of
clearly reflected in our operational
the group was once again one of the most
the fastest-growing companies in the
development in recent quarters,” said Dr
profitable companies in the industry.
fragrances and flavours industry. This strong
Heinz-Jürgen Bertram, CEO of Symrise.
Normalised net income increased by
performance was carried by good demand
“Along with our customers, the capital
10.2% year-on-year to €303.5 million (2018:
across all segments and regions. Earnings
market has also responded favourably
€275.3 million). This led to an increase in
before interest, taxes, depreciation and
to our performance. The share price
normalised earnings per share to €2.25
amortisation (ebitda) as well as normalised
increased by 42% in 2019. This year, we
(2018: €2.12). Against the backdrop of the
for one-time effects resulting from the
want our shareholders to participate
positive growth in earnings, the executive
acquisition of ADF/IDF, ebitda(N) increased
again in our success. At Symrise’s AGM,
board and supervisory board of Symrise will
by €76.7 million to €707.2 million.
the executive board and supervisory
propose a dividend of €0.95 per share (2018:
board will propose a dividend increase to
€0.90) at its AGM. Originally planned for 6
€0.95 per share.”
May, the AGM has since been postponed
“Once again, Symrise posted strong growth in 2019. With the acquisition of ADF/IDF, we have continued to expand
Symrise achieved very strong profitability
due to the progression of the COVID-19
in fast-growing, high-margin business
Industry leading sales growth
pandemic. The payment of the proposed
areas. We have also further diversified our
In the year under review, Symrise
dividend will also be postponed.
product portfolio in the attractive pet food
benefitted from good capacity utilisation
market and expanded our position in North
and strong demand in all segments and
Strong cash flow trend
America. In addition, we made investments
regions. The organic growth rate achieved
Symrise grew its normalised business free
to expand our capacities over the course of
a clear 5.7% increase. As a result, the
cash flow by 53% to €476 million in the
group exceeded the average market
year under review (2018: €312 million). This
growth rate in 2019, which was in the 3% to
represents 14.1% of sales, compared to 9.9%
4% range, according to estimates.
in the previous fiscal year.
The acquisition of the ADF/IDF Group,
The significant increase can be attributed
a leading US supplier of poultry and
above all to the strong gain in net income
egg-based protein specialties, which was
for the period and a below-average rise in
completed in November 2019, contributed
working capital.
approximately €32 million to group sales.
As at the date of reporting, net debt, including pension provisions and similar
Unaffected by fluctuating raw material costs
obligations, had increased to €2 221.5 million
The markets for raw materials remained
2019, the ratio of net debt – including
tense, especially in the first half of 2019.
pension provisions and similar obligations
Notwithstanding the above, Symrise
– to ebitda stood at 3.1, and showed little
continued to invest in global capacity
change compared to the level of the
expansion. Major investment projects
previous year (31 December 2018: 3.0). The
included the new manufacturing site in
medium-term target corridor for the ratio is
Nantong, China and the expansion of
2.0 to 2.5.
production capacity for menthol and
14
| APRIL 2020 | P C Review
(2018: €1 893.1 million). On 31 December
The equity ratio increased from 39.5% to
natural extracts in the US and for pet food in
41.4% at year-end, showing Symrise is in a
Colombia and France.
very good financial position.
COMPANY FOCUS Flavour segment This segment achieved a 5.6 % increase in
Symrise fragrance laboratory
sales to €1 257.3 million in reporting currency (2018: €1 191.1 million). After adjusting for exchange rate effects, the organic growth amounted to 3.8%. This positive trend was carried by all regions and application areas. Flavour benefitted in particular from dynamic demand in Asia-Pacific, where the segment achieved organic growth in the high singledigit percentage range. This was driven by flavourings for applications for confectionary
Dr Heinz-Jürgen Bertram
and beverage products, above all in Indonesia, Malaysia and China. Ebitda in this segment increased
Scent & Care segment
significantly by 10.1% in the reporting period
Sales in reporting currency grew by a
to €268.5 million (2018: €243.9 million).
positive 7.2% to €1 419.1 million (2018: €1
As a result, the ebitda margin was an
324.1 million) in the Scent & Care segment.
outstanding 21.4% (2018: 20.5%).
This represents an increase of 5.6% in organic terms. The fragrances division in
Nutrition segment
particular showed dynamic growth and
In 2019, the Nutrition segment achieved
experienced strong demand for fine fragrance products. This was reflected in double-digit
a 14.5% increase in sales to €731.5
DID YOU KNOW?
million, subsequent to sales of €638.8 million in 2018. This included a total of €32
Symrise has committed percentage growth million in sales from to further reducing its in applications for environmental footprint along the ADF/IDF Group. the entire value chain. Its next fine fragrance, Through the initial milestone is to achieve a 60% supported by robust consolidation of the improvement in its environmental efficiency by 2025. The group demand above all group in November intends to be climate-positive by in EAME and Latin 2019, the fourth quarter 2030 and expects its suppliers America. The cosmetic to commit to more climate showed a remarkably protection in ingredients and aroma strong sales increase the future. molecules divisions also posted gains. Scent & Care grew its ebitda by 9.3%
of 28.7%.
The segment also achieved significant organic growth. Once again,
to €278.0 million (2018: €254.4 million). The
this growth was driven by product
ebitda margin for the year under review
solutions in pet food. The strongest
was 19.6% (2018: 19.2%).
impetus came from North America and
Latin America, where growth was in the double-digit percentage range. Normalised for one-time acquisition and transaction costs, the segment achieved an ebitda of €160.7 million for the reporting period (2018: €132.3 million), representing an increase of 21.5%. The ebitda(N) margin also showed healthy growth. It increased to an excellent 22.0%, compared to 20.7% in 2018.
Looking ahead with confidence This year, Symrise aims to achieve significantly stronger growth than what is relevant to the market for fragrances, flavours and cosmetic ingredients, which is projected to grow at a rate of around 4%. The company also expects all of its segments to grow notably faster than the global market. Assuming raw material costs at their current levels and a stable EUR/USD exchange rate, Symrise anticipates an ebitda margin of over 20% in all segments for the current fiscal. With its global presence, diversified portfolio and proven strategy, Symrise believes it is well-positioned to achieve
Symrise menthol production
these growth targets. The company plans to continue expanding in fast-growing, high-margin business areas in the future, combining organic investments with targeted acquisitions. In addition, Symrise will remain committed to its disciplined cost and efficiency management. By 2025, it plans to increase sales from €5.5 billion to €6.0 billion by means of organic growth at an annual rate of 5% to 7% (CAGR), combined with targeted complementary acquisitions. Long term, Symrise aims to achieve an ebitda margin within the target corridor of 20% to 23%. •
Symrise – www.symrise.com
P C Review | APRIL 2020 |
15
CLOSURES, PUMPS & DISPENSERS
New packaging plant under construction in Lanseria
Alpla, an international specialist in plastic packaging and recycling, is building a new manufacturing plant in Gauteng, in line with the latest production standards. The groundbreaking work began in February and completion is scheduled for June 2021.
This rendering shows a modern building, which will include production, logistics and office space covering an area of about 30 000m²
I
n the past five years, Alpla Group (Alpla) has significantly expanded its market presence in Africa through acquisitions
The new ALPLA plant is being built in the immediate vicinity of Lanseria airport
Concentrating on one plant not only simplifies and optimises manufacturing processes, but also contributes significantly to improving logistics and transport
and cooperation agreements. This
included the acquisition of Boxmore Packaging, a leader in the African market for PET preforms, PET bottles and closures, in 2017.
Standard bottle solutions and tailor-
in terms of section 189(3) of the LRA will
made packaging for the personal
be issued. Trade unions have also been
site in South Africa, Alpla is now creating
care, home care, chemical, detergent,
informed of these intentions. •
the basis for long-term growth and
pharmaceutical and food industries will be
competitiveness in the sub-Saharan African
predominantly manufactured as before for
region. As part of a consolidation plan, the
customers ranging from multinationals to
production of five existing plants in Harrismith
smaller, local players.
With the construction of a new production
Fast facts about Alpla As one of the leading groups in the packaging
(Free State), Denver (eastern Johannesburg),
industry, Alpla employs around 20 900
Isando (Ekurhuleni), Kempton Park
Compliant production
(Ekurhuleni) and Samrand (Midrand) will be
“Our new plant in Lanseria gives us the
transferred to the new plant in Lanseria.
opportunity to produce according to
employees worldwide. The company produces custom-made packaging systems, bottles, closures and moulded parts at 181 sites
modern, globally applicable corporate
Excellent infrastructure Construction on the new plant in Lanseria
the quality of our products, but also
started in February 2020. Its location
meet the high demands of our global
in an emerging area northwest of
customers,” says Christoph Riedlsperger,
Johannesburg, has excellent infrastructure
ALPLA regional director for Africa, the
for business and manufacturing.
Middle East and Turkey.
Concentrating on one plant not only
food and drinks, household detergents, washing and cleaning agents, pharmaceutical products, engine oils and lubricants.
As part of the consolidation programme, the management of the group
processes, but also contributes significantly
contemplates that more than 50 employees
to improving logistics and transport.
would be impacted. Accordingly, a notice
Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review has been an industry mouthpiece for 47 years, and is proud to be Coschem’s official journal for the past 44 years.
| APRIL 2020 | P C Review
packaging is used in a wide range of areas, including cosmetics and care products,
simplifies and optimises manufacturing
16
located across 46 countries. The high-quality
standards. In this way, we not only improve
Alpla Group – www.alpla.com
To contribute editorially contact Abby Vorster at abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za or +27 (0)11 877 6038 For advertising enquiries, contact Carla Melless at carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za / +27 83 260 6060 Anita Raath at anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za +27 82 976 6541 or Candida Giambo-Kruger at candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za / +27 71 438 1918 Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review SAPharmacos
New Media Publishing, Ground Floor, Media Park 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2029 PO Box 784698, Sandton, 2146 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111 Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198
ETHNIC CARE
New light emollient offers a great alternative to silicones
Consumers are demanding full transparency from brands, leading to a clearer definition of what can be considered a ‘clean beauty’ product. In addition to ingredients, the ethical standards of brands at all stages of a product’s process are being be scrutinised.
S
ilicones are among those
powdery after-feel on skin. It is certified
combing improvement was found to be
ingredients consumers are avoiding
RSPO Mass Balanced and suitable for hair
similar to D5 silicone. The level of shine
in the clean beauty movement.
care, colour cosmetics, sun care and skin
measured on hair treated with Liponate
As a result, brands are looking for
care applications.
CCC MB was more than doubled and it
naturally derived alternatives to replace a Liponate CCC MB compliments the broad
As a leading supplier of speciality emollients, Vantage Specialty Chemicals has created Liponate CCC MB. This 100% naturally derived extra light and fast-spreading emollient offers a great alternative to volatile dry silicones, such as dimethicone. Supplied as a clear
has been proven to provide hair with robust
Novel alternative for hair care
broad array of silicone ingredients.
DID YOU KNOW?
portfolio of hair care ingredients on offer from Vantage Specialty Chemicals. These ingredients
Compared to existing help to condition and coco caprylate/caprate replenish the scalp and emollient, Liponate CCC MB hair, while enhancing exhibits the lowest amount of long chains (C22 and larger). hair’s aesthetics. This composition differentiates In hair care products, its fast spreading characteristics, making it Liponate CCC MB has a great candidate for been found to be effective makeup and sun care formulations. in providing various benefits.
oil, it performs as a very light emollient, spreading fast upon application and leaving a soft and
On wet hair, it provides better combing work reduction than D5 silicone and on dry hair, the level of
protection against heat damage. Liponate CCC MB shows good compatibility with pigments and mineral and organic sun filters. It’s also highly compatible with mineral oils, waxes and ester emollients, and is highly heat stable. •
Vantage Specialty Chemicals – kim@lipo.co.za
P C Review | APRIL 2020 |
17
ETHNIC CARE
The new beauty boom is ‘waterless’
By 2025, 1.8 billion people will be living in countries with absolute water scarcity, while two-thirds of the world’s population might be living under water-stressed conditions. As water is crucial to maintain life on Earth, it’s important we use every effort to conserve it.
T
he beauty industry certainly
Facial cleansing bars, dry shampoos,
believes it’s important to conserve
no-rinse body washes and solid
water. Recently, major multinational
moisturisers are all water-saving beauty
beauty brands including L’Oréal,
solutions, which are becoming more
Unilever and P&G have made it their
and more popular. However, the next
mission to significantly decrease water
generation of beauty products are set to
consumption in an effort to preserve this
perform without any water at all.
vital natural resource. While these major
The appeal for waterless cosmetics
Table 1: Foaming Cleansing Oil
Trade name
INCI Name
Function
%
Natrasorb Bath Tapioca Starch
Sensory modifier
20
High Oleic Sunflower Oil
Sunflower Oil
Emollient
Elfan AT 84
Sodium Cocyl Isethionate
Surfactant
Fragrance
Aroma
Aroma
69.8
beauty corporations are trying to reduce
and personal care products is already
their carbon footprint by decreasing water
being seen among consumers of a
consumption, other smaller brands are
younger age range. In the UK, around
boycotting water use altogether by creating
25% of youngsters are interested in dry
completely waterless formulas.
soap and dry bath and shower products,
novel, sustainable, organic and ethical
and even more so in France (30%).
ingredients, which provide more value and
Waterless, water-free or anhydrous beauty refers to products that are free from
Consumers are ready for
increase a product’s efficacy. Nouryon’s Natrasorb Bath Starch (INCI:
waterless products, as long as they are
and nourishing oils instead, to create more
effective, easy to use and have great
Tapioca Starch), is a spray dried and
potent solutions while diminishing the need
sensorial attributes.
dextrinised Tapioca Starch. Available in
The shift to waterless cosmetics Water is a precious commodity that is often overlooked. With consumers becoming more aware of water scarcity, there is a need for new product formulations that require little or no water in order to function. The additional benefits of waterless formulations include a reduction in plastic waste and production costs and aiding the creation of effective products.
Consumers are ready for waterless products, as long as they are effective, easy to use and have great sensorial attributes Many companies are dedicating
South Africa from IMCD, Natrasorb Bath
their sustainability initiatives to water
Starch can be used as a carrier and
conservation, exploring and launching
manufacturing aid for bath salt applications
waterless formulations. This trend is
and is ideal for absorbing the oils and
rooted in the K-beauty market and is now
fragrances used in a bath salt formula.
being embraced by beauty brands and consumers worldwide.
When the oil-loaded starch is mixed with salt granules, it naturally adheres well to the salt, eliminating the necessity for a
More concentrated products
fixative. Within the product’s packaging,
The move towards cosmetics with less
there is virtually no separation of the starch
or no water is driven by the rationale
from the salt.
that water is inactive. Removing water from a formulation provides more room for beneficial ingredients and by reducing the cost of transport, more budget can be allocated to
The adhesion characteristic of Natrasorb Bath Starch is important both for manufacturing uniformity and prolonged packaging stability. In addition, when the salts are added to bath water, the starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing the oils and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. Natrasorb Bath Starch is versatile and applicable to other formulations where oil adsorbency and water solubility are required simultaneously. It can be blended with dry surfactant to formulate a foaming cleansing powder with high oil content. See Table 1 for the formulation guide. •
IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com
18
| APRIL 2020 | P C Review
0.2
This water-free system offers mild cleansing with a nourishing after-feel. It works like a face wash yet is effective in cleansing hard-to-remove makeup
water, using soothing botanical ingredients
for preservatives and unnecessary fillers.
10
H starch should be stored in a cool, dry nd handling m heat, sparks ordone fire. Good industrial n evaluations were by weighing the hygiene nd handling BATH starch should be stored in a cool, dry beBATH followed when with starch. Hobart mixer, thestored oil onto starch, starchatomizing shouldworking be in the athis cool, dry y from heat, sparks or fire. Good industrial hygiene omogeneous, and subjectively assessing SDS before this or anythe other y from heat, working sparks or with fire. Good industrial hygiene
ould when working working with withthis thisstarch. starch. s. be ould be followed followed when he MSDS before working with this or any other he MSDS before working with this or any other
d handling
and good ventilation are recommended. Avoid contact
the powder or dust with heat,GM sparks or genetically open flame. isofof available on or request. It isheat, non the powder dust with sparks(not or open flame. A health and safety summary for NATRASORB BATH starch modified). Health and safety A health and safety summary for NATRASORB BATH starch available on request. Itisisnon nonparticulate. GM(not (notgenetically genetically NATRASORB BATH starch is anItorganic isisavailable on request. GM modified). Although it is not prone to dusting, use of a dust mask modified). and good ventilation are recommended. Avoid contact of the powder or dust with heat, sparks or open flame. A health and safety summary for NATRASORB BATH starch is available on request. It is non GM (not genetically modified).
BATH starch should be stored in a cool, dry from heat, sparks or fire. Good industrial hygiene uld be followed when working with this starch. e MSDS before working with this or any were other done by weighing the The adsorption evaluations
Health and safety
starch into a Hobart mixer, the by oil the onto the the starch, Health andNATRASORB The adsorption evaluations wereatomizing done by weighing BATH The adsorption evaluations were done weighing safety and Health andsafety safetystarch is an organic particulate The adsorption evaluations were done by weighing the Health mixing until homogeneous, and subjectively assessing the starchstarch into a into Hobart mixer, atomizing the oil onto the starch, BATH starchitisisan organic particulate. Although not prone to an dusting, use of a dust m Hobart mixer, atomizing theoil oilthe ontothe thestarch, starch, NATRASORB The adsorption adsorption evaluations were doneby byweighing weighing the starch into aa Hobart mixer, atomizing the onto NATRASORB BATH starch organic particulate. Healthand and safety The evaluations were done NATRASORB BATH starch is is an organic particulate. Health mixing until homogeneous, and subjectively assessing the flow properties. Although it issafety not prone toventilation dusting, use are of a recommended. dust mask ® and good Avoidmas co mixing until homogeneous, and subjectively assessing the starch into a Hobart mixer, atomizing the oil onto the starch, mixing until homogeneous, andthe subjectively the NATRASORB BATH starchitisisannot organic particulate. Although prone to dusting, use of a dust starch into a Hobart mixer, atomizing oil onto the assessing starch,
NATRASORB ®®BATH Starch
NATRASORB BATH starchitisisannot organic particulate. Although prone toAvoid dusting, use of a dust mask and good itventilation aretorecommended. contact Although not prone dusting, use of awith dust mask of the powder or dust heat, sparksAvoid or open fl Although it is isnot prone toventilation dusting, use ofare a recommended. dust mask and good ventilation recommended. conta and good are of thegood powder or dustare with heat, sparks Avoid or open flame. Avoid contact flow properties. properties. flow and ventilation recommended. contact Storage and handling and good ventilation arepowder recommended. Avoid contact A health and safety summary for NATRASORB BAT of the or dust with heat, sparks or open flam the safety powder or dust with heat, sparks or open flame. Storage and handling The adsorption evaluations were done by weighing the A health andof safety summary for NATRASORB BATH starch Health and the powder or dust with heat, sparks open flame. ofofthe powder or dust with heat, sparks oror open flame. NATRASORB BATH starch should be a cool, Storage and handling Storage and handling A health and safety summary for NATRASORB BATH is available on request. It is non GM (not genetica NATRASORB starch should beby stored inoilathe cool,inthe dry A health and safety summary for NATRASORB BATH sta starch into BATH a and Hobart mixer, thestored onto starch,dry Storage and handling is available on request. It is non GM (not genetically TheStorage adsorption evaluations wereatomizing done weighing NATRASORB BATH starch is an organic particulate. handling Ahealth health andsafety safety summary NATRASORB BATH starch HealthAand safety and summary forfor NATRASORB BATH starch Oil adsorbing hydrophilic starch NATRASORB BATH starch should bethe stored in cool,dry dry location away from heat, sparks or fire. Good hygiene NATRASORB BATH starch be stored inindustrial aacool, location away from heat, sparks orshould fire. Good industrial hygiene is available on request. It is non GM (not genetically NATRASORB BATH starch should be stored in a cool, dry mixing until homogeneous, and subjectively assessing the starch into a Hobart mixer, atomizing the oil onto starch, modified). modified). is available on request. It is non GM (not genetically NATRASORB BATH starch should be stored in a cool, dry is available on request. It is non GM (not genetically NATRASORB BATH starch is an organic particulate. ® Although it is not prone to dusting, use of a dust mask is available on request. It is non GM (not genetically ®starch adsorbing hydrophilic Oil adsorbing hydrophilic starch practices should befrom followed when working with this starch. location away from heat, sparks or fire. Good industrial hygiene mixing until homogeneous, and subjectively assessing the with location away from heat, sparks or fire. Good industrial hygiene location away from heat, sparks or fire. Good industrial hygiene ® practices should be followed when working this starch. location away heat, sparks or fire. Good industrial hygiene flow properties. Although itmodified). is not tomodified). dusting, use are of a recommended. dust mask ® modified). ation and sample formulations contact modified). andprone good ventilation Avoid contact flow properties. practices should be followed when working with this starch. Please read the MSDS before working with this or any other and good ventilation are recommended. Avoid contact practices should be followed when working with this starch. practices should be followed when working with thisstarch. starch. practices should be followed when working with this formation sample formulations contact Please read the MSDS before working with this or any other and sample formulations contact of the powder or dust with heat, sparks or open flame. re.Marketing@nouryon.com . before of the powder or dust with heat, sparks or open flame. Please read read the MSDS before working withthis this any other Please the MSDS working with ororany other chemical. Storage and handling read the MSDS before working with this or any other Please read the MSDS before working with this or any other A health and safety summary for NATRASORB BATH starch Oil adsorbing hydrophilic alCare.Marketing@nouryon.com chemical. alCare.Marketing@nouryon.com .. starch Storage and handling A health and safety summary for NATRASORB BATH starch chemical. chemical.
flow properties. mixing until homogeneous, and subjectively assessing the
NATRASORB BATH BATH Starch Starch NATRASORB ® NATRASORB ® BATH Starch NATRASORB BATH Starch flow properties. mixing until homogeneous, and subjectively assessing the flow properties.
NATRASORB BATH BATHStarch Starch NATRASORB BATH Starch NATRASORB BATH Starch NATRASORB NATRASORB Starch
Oil adsorbing hydrophilic starch NATRASORB BATH starch should be stored a cool, dry adsorbing hydrophilic starch chemical. Oil adsorbing hydrophilic starch INCI: Tapioca Starch BATH would be applicable chemical. available on request. It is non GM (not genetically in other NATRASORB BATH starch should be stored in a cool,indry is available onisNATRASORB request. It is non GM (not starch genetically ® All information concerning our products and/or all ChinaOil Europe adsorbing hydrophilic starch Oil adsorbing hydrophilic starch adsorbing hydrophilic Tapioca Starch NATRASORB BATH starch would be applicable other INCI: Tapioca Starch NATRASORB BATH starch would be applicable in in other location away from heat, sparks or fire.industrial Good industrial location away from heat, sparks or fire. Good hygiene hygiene ® modified). modified). formulationsAllwhere oilconcerning adsorbency and water solubility are suggestions for handling use contained All information concerning our products and/or all information ourand products and/or all herein da Europe ChinaChina Europe Shanghai, Stenungsund, Sweden practices should be be followed when working with thiswith starch. formulations where oiloil adsorbency and water solubility formulations where adsorbency and water solubility (including formulation and toxicity information) are areare suggestions for handling and use contained herein practices should followed when working this starch. suggestions for handling and use contained herein ormation The and sample formulations contact required simultaneously. NATRASORB BATH starch is a specialty starch that offers Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden (including andand toxicity information) arereliable. T +86Please 21 2220 5000 Tworking +46 303 00any (including toxicity information) are offeredformulation informulation good faith and are believed to be Please read the MSDS before with or required The NATRASORB BATH starch is a850 specialty starch offers requiredsimultaneously. simultaneously. NATRASORB BATH starch is athis specialty starch that offers read the MSDS working with thisother or anythat other lCare.Marketing@nouryon.com . before 9977 Tchemical. +86 21 2220 5000 TT+46 303 850 00 977 21 2220 5000 +46 303 850 00 in good faith andand are believed to be offered in good faith are believed to reliable. be reliable.or However, Nouryon makes no warranty express INCI: Tapioca Starch starch would be applicable in other unique functionality that is particularly suited for bath powders. NATRASORB BATHoffered However, Nouryon makes no warranty express or However, makes no warranty expressoforsuch INCI: Tapioca Starch NATRASORB BATH starch would be applicable other unique functionality that Oil adsorbing hydrophilic starch Tapioca Starch NATRASORB BATH starch would applicable in other unique functionality thatis isparticularly particularlysuited suitedfor forbath bathpowders. powders. chemical. INCI: Tapioca Starch NATRASORB BATH starch would applicable insufficiency other implied (i)Nouryon asbe to be the accuracy or formulations where oil adsorbency andorinwater solubility are Due to its unique processing, theEast NATRASORB BATH starch is able Recommended applications Middle South East Asia INCI: Tapioca Starch NATRASORB BATH starch would applicable other implied (i) as to the accuracy sufficiency Tapioca Starch NATRASORB BATH starch would be applicable in other implied (i)be as to the accuracy or sufficiency of such Oil adsorbing hydrophilic starch INCI: Tapioca Starch NATRASORB BATH starch would be applicable in other information and/or suggestions, (ii) asoftosuch any product’s formulations where oil adsorbency and water solubility are formulations where oil adsorbency and water solubility are Due to its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH starch is able Recommended applications Middle East South East Asia to its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH starch is able Recommended applications Middle East East Asia formulations where oil adsorbency and water solubility are All information concerning our products and/or all information and/or suggestions, (ii) as to any product’s information and/or suggestions, (ii) as to any product’s Europe China merchantability or fitness for a particular use or (iii) that Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates required simultaneously. The NATRASORB BATH starch is a specialty starch that offers formulations where oil adsorbency and water solubility are formulations where oil adsorbency and water solubility are to Singapore absorb and and carry large quantities ofof oils and anhydrous Bath powders formulations where oil for adsorbency and water solubility suggestions handling and use contained merchantability or fitness forfor aherein particular useare or (iii) Dubai, Arab Emirates required simultaneously. The NATRASORB BATH starch isisaaUnited specialty starch that offers merchantability or fitness a particular use or that (iii) that Singapore United Arab Emirates required simultaneously. NATRASORB BATH starch specialty starch that offers liquids, to absorb carry large quantities oils and anhydrous liquids, ••simultaneously. powders required The NATRASORB BATH starch is+971 aDubai, specialty starch that offers absorb and carry large quantities ofstarch oils and anhydrous liquids, •Bath Bath powders Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden any suggested use (including use in any formulation) (including formulation and toxicity information) are required simultaneously. The NATRASORB BATH starch is a specialty that offers T +65 6635 5183 T 4247 1500 any suggested use (including use in any formulation) required simultaneously. NATRASORB BATH starch is a specialty starch that offers unique functionality that is particularly suited for bath powders. any suggested use (including use in any formulation) required •simultaneously. The NATRASORB BATHthat starch aprocessed specialty starch offers such as bath oils. The starch inbath a athat manner that Carrier for oils T +65 6635 5183 Tparticularly +971 4247 1500 8938 unique isisparticularly suited for bath powders. 6635 5183oils. Tis +971 4247 1500 938 will not infringe anytopatent. Nothing contained herein unique functionality that suited for powders. 77 T +86 21 2220 5000 T starch +46 303 850 00 offered in good faith and are believed beNothing reliable. such as bath The isis processed inbath manner that creates • •Carrier for oils unique functionality that isThe particularly suited for powders. will notnot infringe anyany patent. contained herein asfunctionality bath oils. processed in abath manner thatcreates creates Carrier for oils will infringe patent. Nothing contained herein unique functionality that isisstarch particularly suited powders. functionality that particularly suitedfor forBATH bath powders. shall be construed as granting or extending any license Due to its unique processing, the NATRASORB starch isisisable Recommended applications However, Nouryon makes no warranty express INCI: Tapioca Starch NATRASORB BATH starch would be applicable other unique functionality that is particularly suited for bath powders. shall be construed asin granting ororextending anyany license Due to its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH starch able Recommended applications “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially in a solid, powder form. • Anhydrous skin care formulas shall be construed as granting or extending license to its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH starch able Recommended applications “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially ininastarch solid, form. • •starch Anhydrous skin care formulas Due to itsTapioca unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH able Recommended applications INCI: Starch NATRASORB BATH would applicable insufficiency other implied (i)applications asbe toskin the accuracy or of such “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially astarch solid,ispowder powder form. Anhydrous care formulas under any patent. The user must determine for itself Due to its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH is able Recommended applications Russia India its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH starch is able Recommended under any patent. The user must determine for for itself formulations where oil adsorbency and water solubility are India Russia under any patent. The user must determine itself Due to its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH starch is able Recommended applications South East Asia Middle East to absorb and carry large quantities of of oils and anhydrous liquids, Bath powders a Russia to absorb and carry large quantities oils and anhydrous liquids, •••where Bath powders information and/or suggestions, (ii) as to any product’s absorb and carry large quantities ofand oils and anhydrous liquids, Bath powders by preliminary tests or otherwise the suitability of any processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the formulations oil adsorbency water solubility are byand preliminary tests or otherwise thethe suitability of any The processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the toThe absorb and carry large quantities of oils anhydrous liquids, • Bath powders by preliminary tests or otherwise suitability of any processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the to absorb and carry large quantities of oils and anhydrous liquids, • Bath powders Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia absorb and carry large quantities of oils and anhydrous liquids, • Bath powders merchantability or fitness for a particular use or (iii) that Mumbai, India Russia Singapore Dubai, Arab Emirates required simultaneously. The NATRASORB BATH starch isMoscow, aisUnited specialty starch that offersthat Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia to absorb and carry large quantities of oils and anhydrous liquids, • Bath powders such as bath oils. The starch is processed in a manner creates • Carrier for oils product and of any information contained herein such as bath oils. The starch processed in a manner that creates • Carrier for oils product and of any information contained herein such as bath oils. The starch is processed in a manner that creates • Carrier for oils product and of any information contained herein required simultaneously. The NATRASORB BATH starch is a specialty starch that offers any suggested use (including use in any formulation) starch water soluble that the starch comes in with Features and benefits starch water soluble so that once the comes in contact with Features and benefits as bath oils. The starch isT+971 processed in ainstarch manner that creates Carrier for oils as bath oils. The starch isT processed in astarch manner that creates ••with for T 4247 1500 38 T +65 6635 5183 Tsuch +91 22 6842 6700 +7 495 766 1606 starch water soluble so that once the comes incontact contact Features and benefits exico T +91 22 6842 6700 +7 495 766 1606 unique functionality thatso is particularly suited for bath powders. such as bath oils. The starch isonce processed ain manner that creates •Carrier foroils oils (including but notlimited limited formulation and toxicity (including butbut notnot limited to formulation andand toxicity exico Tsuch +91 22 6842 6700 Toils +7 495 766 such as bath oils. The starch is processed that creates for oils (including toto formulation toxicity willskin not infringe anyformulas patent. Nothing contained herein “pockets” that can carry the essentially asolid, powder form. •Carrier care formulas “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially ina1606 amanner powder form. •Carrier Anhydrous skin care formulas unique functionality that iscarry particularly suited forin bath powders. “pockets” that can the oils essentially asolid, solid, powder form.••• Anhydrous •Anhydrous Anhydrous skin care information) forfor the user’s purpose. TheThe safety of any information) forthe theuser’s user’s purpose. The safety of any “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially in aain solid, powder form. skin care formulas “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially in a solid, powder form. Anhydrous skin care formulas water it immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils. 7895 information) purpose. safety of any shall be construed as granting or extending any license Due to its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH starch is able Recommended applications water it immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils. For more information and sample formulations contact For more information and sample formulations contact “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially in solid, powder form. • Anhydrous skin care formulas Feature Benefit water it immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils. 7895 Feature Benefit For more information and sample formulations contact “pockets” that of can carry the essentially in aalso solid, powder form. • Anhydrous skin care formulations formulas Feature Benefit The of NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the herein has not been established. Due to itsprocessing unique processing, theoils NATRASORB BATH starch is able the Recommended applications The processing NATRASORB BATH starch renders formulations described herein has not been established. under any patent. The user described must determine for itself The processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the formulations described herein has not been established. India Russia The processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the to absorb and carry large quantities of oils and anhydrous liquids, • Bath powders us at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com .renders Theto processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also the The processing ofNATRASORB NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the • with usThe atstarch PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com . comes The suitability and safety of aofformulation should be be be us at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com . renders by preliminary tests or otherwise thesafety suitability processing of BATH starch also the The suitability and safety of a any formulation should The suitability and a of formulation should absorb and carrysoluble large quantities of oils and anhydrous liquids, Bath powders water so that once the starch inin contact Features and benefits Hydrophilic Water solubility Moscow, Russia Mumbai, starch water soluble so that once the starch comes incontact contact with Features and benefits starch water soluble so that once the comes contact Features benefits Hydrophilic Water solubility Hydrophilic Water solubility confirmed in all respects by herein the user prior to use. The starch water soluble so that once the starch comes inin with Features and benefits such asIndia bath oils. The starch is processed in astarch manner that creates •with Carrier for oils product and of confirmed any information contained confirmed all respects by the user prior to use. ininall respects by the user prior to use. TheThe starch water soluble so that once the starch comes in contact with Features and benefits starch water soluble so that once the starch comes contact with Features and benefits When used in a bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH starch water soluble so that once the starch comes in contact with Features and benefits When used in a bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH such as bath oils. The starch is processed in a manner that creates • Carrier for oils When used in a bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH For use in anhydrous formulas ico T +91water 22immediately 6842 6700 dissolves, T +7 495 766 1606 itit immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils. contained herein supersedes previously (including butinformation not limited to formulation and toxicity Feature Benefit For use inalland/or anhydrous formulas For use in formulas All information concerning our products and/or allanhydrous water immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils. water it releasing the loaded oils. information contained herein supersedes all previously information contained herein supersedes all USA and Canada China Europe “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially in a solid, powder form. • Anhydrous skin care formulas Feature Benefit water it immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils. For more information and sample formulations contact Feature Benefit All information concerning our products all previously All information concerning our products and/or all Feature Benefit USA and Canada China Europe water it immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils. USA and Canada China Europe For more information and sample formulations contact water it immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils. For more information and sample formulations contact information) issued for the bulletins user’s purpose. The safety of contained any covered. starch carries the oils in a powder form into the bath, but readily on subject matter suggestions forthe handling and use herein Feature Benefit “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially in a solid, powder form. • Anhydrous skin care formulas Feature Benefit water it immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils. 95 For more information and sample formulations contact starch carries the oils in a powder form into the bath, but readily Feature Benefit issued bulletins on the subject matter covered. suggestions for handling and use contained herein starch carries the oils in a powder form into the bath, but readily issued bulletins on subject matter covered. Chicago, USA Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden suggestions forthe handling andinformation) use contained herein Oil adsorbency In combination with its water (including formulation and toxicity are The processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden Chicago, USA formulations described herein has not been established. Oil adsorbency adsorbency In combination its water Chicago, USA Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden Hydrophilic Water solubility Oil In combination (including formulation and toxicity information) arewith us at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com . . them (including formulation and toxicity arewith its water The processing ofin NATRASORB starch also the Hydrophilic Water us at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com . renders T +1 800 906 9977 TTBATH +86 21 2220 5000 TT+46 303 850 00 into us at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing the offered good faith andsolubility are believed to beinformation) reliable. Hydrophilic Water solubility Hydrophilic Water solubility us at . 303 The suitabilityProducts and safety of in aWater formulation should bebelieved When used aafragrances/emulsifiers, bath formulation, NATRASORB BATH solubility itNouryon delivers oil,oil, fragrances TPersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com +1 800 906 +86 21 2220 5000 +46 850 releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the offered in good faith and areare believed to be reliable. Hydrophilic Water solubility mentioned are trademarks ofexpress T starch +1 800 906 9977 Tpowder +86 21 2220 5000 Tin+46 303 850 0000 releases the oils/ dispersing them into the offered in good faith and to be reliable. Hydrophilic solubility water soluble so that once the starch comes contact with Features and benefits When used in bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH Hydrophilic Water solubility For use in anhydrous solubility itformulas delivers fragrances However, Nouryon makes no warranty or When used in aa9977 bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH Products mentioned are trademarks ofexpress Nouryon When used in a bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH solubility it delivers oil, fragrance Products mentioned are trademarks of Nouryon For use in anhydrous formulas confirmed in all respects by the user prior to use. The However, Nouryon makes no warranty or starch water soluble so that once the starch comes in contact with Features and benefits When used in bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH For use in anhydrous formulas For use in anhydrous formulas and registered in many countries. However, Nouryon makes no warranty express or When used incarries a in bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH When a the bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH implied (i) as in to the accuracy or sufficiency of such warm water. The starch itself provides aasoft feel to the bath water, For use inin anhydrous formulas or emulsifiers, coming in in starch oils in aSouth powder form into the bath, but readily and registered many countries. For use anhydrous formulas For use in anhydrous formulas implied (i)(i) as tomany the accuracy or sufficiency ofwhen such warm water. The starch itself provides soft feel to the bath water, water it used immediately dissolves, releasing theinto loaded oils. or emulsifiers, when coming information contained herein supersedes all previously Middle East South America East Asia and registered in countries. starch carries the oils in a powder form into the bath, but readily Feature Benefit starch carries the oils in a powder form the bath, but readily implied as to the accuracy or sufficiency of such All information concerning our products and/or all warm water. The starch itself provides a soft feel to the bath water, Oil adsorbency In combination with its water information and/or suggestions, (ii) as to any product’s or emulsifiers, when in USA and Canada China Europe South East Asia Middle East South America starch carries the oils in a powder form into the bath, but readily water itAmerica immediately dissolves, releasing theinto loaded oils. For more information and sample formulations contact All information concerning ourcoming products and/o starch carries the oils in a powder form into the bath, but readily Feature Benefit Oil adsorbency In combination with its water information and/or suggestions, (ii)with as to any product’s Oil adsorbency In combination with its water Europe USA and Canada China South South East Asia Middle East contact water starch carries the oils in a powder form into the bath, but readily issued bulletins on the subject matter covered. suggestions for handling and use contained herein All information concerning our products an starch carries the oils in a powder form the bath, but readily merchantability or fitness forcontact a particular use or that Oil adsorbency In combination with its water information and/or suggestions, (ii) as to(iii) any product’s Itupeva, Brazil Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates but does not settle or leave a film. The NATRASORB BATH starch Oil adsorbency In combination with its water releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the Europe USA and Canada China with water All information concerning our produ Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden Chicago, USA suggestions for handling and use contained he merchantability or fitness for a particular use or (iii) that Oil adsorbency In combination with its water solubility it delivers oil, fragrances Itupeva, Brazil Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates but does not settle or leave a film. The NATRASORB BATH starch Oil adsorbency In combination with its water Europe USA and Canada China releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the (including formulation and toxicity information) are contact with water any suggested use (including use in any formulation) merchantability or fitness for a particular use or (iii) that suggestions for handling and use containe Hydrophilic Water solubility solubility it delivers oil, fragrances solubility it delivers oil, fragrances Itupeva, Brazil Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates but does not settle or leave a film. The NATRASORB BATH starch Chicago, USA Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the us at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com .them releases oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the T +55 11the 4591 8938 T21+65 6635 5183 T +971 4247 1500 any suggested use (including use in any formulation) suggestions for handling use con T +1 800 906 9977 T +86 2220 5000 T +46 303 850 00 solubility itNouryon delivers oil, fragrances solubility itwhen delivers oil, fragrances (including formulation and toxicityand information releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the offered in good faith and are believed to be reliable. Hydrophilic Water solubility Stenungsund, Sweden Chicago, USA Shanghai, China releases oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing into the Tthe +55 11 in 4591 8938 Tformulation, +65 6635 5183 Tto +971 4247 1500 will not infringe any patent. Nothing contained herein Low bulk density warm water. The starch itself provides a soft feel the bath water, can also be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath When used a bath powder NATRASORB BATH solubility it delivers oil, fragrances or emulsifiers, coming in any suggested use (including use in any formulation) Products mentioned are trademarks of (including formulation and toxicity informa solubility it delivers oil, fragrances Chicago, USA Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden warm water. The starch itself provides a soft feel to the bath water, will not infringe any patent. Nothing contained herein For use in anhydrous formulas T +65 6635 5183 T BATH +971 4247 1500 T +55 11 4591 Low bulk density density warm water. The starch itself provides a soft feel to the water, or emulsifiers, when coming in However, Nouryon makes no warranty or or can also be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath When used in8938 a906 bath powder formulation, NATRASORB or formulas emulsifiers, when coming inare believed TT +86 21 2220 5000 Tbath +46 303 T +1 800 9977 offered in good faith and to be inf rel (including formulation and toxicity shall be or construed asexpress granting extending any license warm water. The starch itself provides soft feel to the bath water, For as use in anhydrous will notor infringe any patent. Nothing contained herein emulsifiers, when coming in warm water. The starch itself provides a soft to the bath water, can also be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath or emulsifiers, when coming and registered many countries. TCentral +1 800 906 9977 +86ainto 21 2220 5000 Twater, +46 303850 85000 00 Low bulk offered in good faith andinare believed to be shall be construed as or extending any license implied (i)in to the accuracy sufficiency ofgranting such warm water. The starch itself provides aasoft feel to the bath water, contact with water or emulsifiers, when coming in starch carries the oils in aSouth powder the bath, but readily warm water. The starch itself provides soft feel to the bath but does not settle or leave aAsia film. The NATRASORB BATH starch under any patent. The user must determine for itself or emulsifiers, when coming in However, Nouryon makes noand warranty express powders with high oil content. America India Russia Tstarch +1 800 906 9977 Ta+86 21 2220 5000 Tstarch +46 303 00 Modified tapioca contact with water South America East Middle offered in good faith believed shall be construed as granting or extending any license contact with water carries the oils in aor powder form into the bath, butEast readily but does not settle or leave film. The NATRASORB BATH starch Naturally-derived Oil 850 adsorbency Inand/or combination with its water information suggestions, (ii)information as to any product’s but does not settle or leave aform film. The NATRASORB BATH starch under any patent. The user must determine for itself However, Nouryon makes no are warranty exp powders with high oil content. Central America India Russia contact with water All concerning ourto products and/oror all by preliminary tests or otherwise the suitability of any but does not settle leave a film. The NATRASORB BATH starch Oil adsorbency In combination with its water USA and Canada China Europe Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived contact with water implied (i) as the accuracy sufficiency of contact with water but does not settle leave aadry film. The NATRASORB BATH starch under patent.use The user must determine for itself makes no warrants merchantability or fitness aany particular or (iii) that and Caribbean Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates Itupeva, Brazil but does not settle or leave film. The NATRASORB BATH starch However, Nouryon powders with high oil content. Russia Central America India releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the by preliminary or otherwise the suitability of any contact with bulk density tapioca can also be blended with surfactant to formulate foaming bath but does not settle oror leave aShanghai, film. The NATRASORB BATH starch implied (i)use as to the accuracy Modified starch Naturally-derived suggestions for water handling and contained herein or sufficiency product and of anytests information contained herein solubility itfor delivers oil, fragrances South America South East Asia Middle East and Caribbean Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the Biodegradable LowLow bulk density can also be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath useit(including use inofany formulation) Low bulk density any suggested information and/or suggestions, (ii) asor to any p can be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath by preliminary tests or Biodegradable otherwise the suitability of any solubility delivers oil, fragrances Chicago, USA China Stenungsund, Sweden product and any information contained herein T +55 11also 4591 8938 TMumbai, +65 6635 5183 Tformulate +971 4247 1500 South East Asia Middle East South America Mexico City, Mexico T +91 22 6842 6700 T +7 495 766 1606 implied (i) as to the accuracy Low bulk density can also be blended with dry surfactant to foaming bath (including but not limited to formulation and toxicity India Moscow, Russia and Caribbean (including formulation and toxicity information) are information and/or suggestions, (ii) assuffic to an will not infringe any patent. Nothing contained herein Low bulk density warm water. The starch itself provides a soft feel to the water, Low bulk density can also be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath can also be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath or emulsifiers, when coming in Mexico City, Mexico TSouth +91 22aEast 6842 6700 Tbath +7water, 495 766bath 1606 product and ofuser’s any information contained herein (including but not limited to formulation and toxicity merchantability or fitness for a particular o Middle East South America Asia powders with high oil content. Itupeva, Brazil Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates Biodegradable Aesthetic enhancer delivering a use Low bulk density warm water. The starch itself provides soft feel to the bath can also be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming or emulsifiers, when coming in information) for the purpose. The safety of any Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived with high oilBATH content. information suggestions, (ii) as T495 +46 303 850 00 Tpowders +1 906 9977 T +86 21 2220 5000 The starch can be used as a carrier and a offered in good faithmerchantability and areenhancer believedand/or tofitness bedelivering reliable. T 800 +52NATRASORB 55 5261 7895 shall be construed as granting or extending any Aesthetic license or for a particular us powders with high oil content. Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates Itupeva, Brazil Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived Mexico City, Mexico T +91 22 6842 6700 T +7 766 1606 (including but not limited to formulation and toxicity information) for the user’s purpose. The safety of any Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived powders with high oil content. anynot suggested use (including use in anyaformu The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used as a carrier and a T +52 55 5261 7895 contact with water formulations described herein has beenno established. but does not settle or leave a film. The NATRASORB BATH starch Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived under any patent. The user must determine for itself However, Nouryon makes warranty express or powders with high oil content. Central America India Russia T +55 11 4591 8938 T +65 6635 5183 T +971 4247 1500 contact with water merchantability or fitness for in a particu powders with high oil content. Itupeva, Brazil Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates soft feel any suggested use (including use any fo but does not settle or leave a film. The NATRASORB BATH starch Aesthetic enhancer delivering a Biodegradable Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived formulations described herein has not been established. information) for the user’s purpose. The safety of any Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived powders with high oil content. The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used as a carrier and a The suitability and safety of a formulation should be T +52 55 5261 7895 Biodegradable willaccuracy not infringe any patent. Nothing contained TCaribbean +55 11 4591 8938 Tsalt +65applications. 6635 5183 T +971earlier, 4247Modified 1500 tapioca starch by preliminary tests or otherwise the suitability of any manufacturing aid for bath As Naturally-derived soft feel Biodegradable implied (i) as to the or sufficiency of(including such and Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia The suitability and safety ofherein auser formulation should be any use use inan a Biodegradable will not infringe any patent. Nothing conta formulations described has not been established. Low density can also beblended blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath manufacturing aid for bath salt applications. Asdescribed described earlier, confirmed in all respects by the prior tosuggested use. product and of any information contained herein South America South East Asia Middle East Aesthetic enhancer delivering agranting Biodegradable Tand +971 4247 1500 Tcan +55 11 4591 8938with T 6842 +65 6635 5183 shall be construed as or extending bulkbulk density also be dry surfactant to formulate bath soft feel The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used aAs carrier information and/or suggestions, (ii) as to any product’s Aesthetic delivering aThe Biodegradable yon confirmed in allenhancer respects by the user prior to infringe use. The The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used afoaming carrier and a aLow Mexico City, Mexico T bath +91 22 6700 Tas +7as 495 1606 The and safety of ashall formulation should be Biodegradable contained herein supersedes allnot previously (including but notinformation limited tosuitability formulation and toxicity Aesthetic enhancer delivering agranting will any patent. c be construed as orNothing extending manufacturing aidoil for applications. described earlier, the starch can be used tosalt absorb the oils and fragrances in a The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used as a766 carrier and aused Aesthetic enhancer delivering a yon under any patent. The user must determine for Russia Central America India The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used as a carrier and a merchantability or fitness for a particular use or (iii) that powders with high content. Itupeva, Brazil Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates information herein supersedes all previously softcontained feel Aesthetic enhancer information) for the user’s purpose. The of any issued bulletins on thesafety subject matter covered. confirmed in all respects by thedelivering userany prior to a use.The The user Modified starch Naturally-derived the starch can be used tosalt absorb the oils and fragrances used in tapioca a starch powders oil content. soft feel The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used used as aAs carrier and aearlier, TNATRASORB +52 55with 5261high 7895 under patent. must Aesthetic enhancer delivering shall be construed as agranting or exte Modified tapioca Naturally-derived Central America India Russia manufacturing aid for bath applications. described The BATH starch can be as a carrier and a soft feel Aesthetic delivering by preliminary tests ora otherwise the determine suitability manufacturing aid for bath salt applications. As described earlier, any suggested use (including use in any formulation) issued bulletins on theenhancer subject matter covered. formulations described herein has not been established. soft feel The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used as a carrier and a bal specialty chemicals leader. Markets worldwide rely on information contained herein supersedes all previously Tis+971 4247 1500 Tmanufacturing +55 4591 8938 T India +65 6635 5183 manufacturing aid bath salt applications. As described earlier, and11 Caribbean Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded starch mixed with the the starch can be used to absorb the oilsAs and fragrances used insalt a soft feel by preliminary tests orThe otherwise the suitab Biodegradable aid forfor bath salt applications. As described earlier, under any patent. user must dete Central America Russia bal specialty chemicals leader. Markets worldwide rely on The suitability and safety ofmentioned a formulation should be Biodegradable product and of any information contained here willfeel notare infringe any patent. Nothing contained herein Products trademarks ofmatter Nouryon soft feel manufacturing aid for bath salt applications. described earlier, and Caribbean Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded starch is mixed with salt issued bulletins on the subject covered. soft the starch can be used to absorb the oils and fragrances used athe the starch can be used to absorb the oils and fragrances used in495 ainin766 manufacturing aid for bath salt As described earlier, product and oflimited anytests information contained confirmed in all respects by thementioned user prior to use. The Products are trademarks Nouryon Mexico City, Mexico Tapplications. +91 22 6842 6700 T as +7 byofpreliminary or otherwise theto s manufacturing aid for bath salt applications. As described earlier, Aesthetic enhancer delivering agranting and registered indelivering many countries. shall be construed as or extending any license (including but not to formulation and the starch can be used to absorb the oils and fragrances used a 1606 The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used as astarch carrier and asalt, pecialty chemicals leader. Markets worldwide rely on Aesthetic enhancer a chemistry in the manufacture of everyday products such granules, the starch naturally adheres well to the eliminating on the starch can be used to absorb the oils and fragrances used in a The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used as a carrier and a and Caribbean Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded is mixed with the salt information contained herein supersedes all previously Mexico City, Mexico T +91 22 6842 6700 T +7 495 766 1606 and registered in any many countries. (including but not limited to formulation an the starch can be used to absorb the oils and fragrances used in a under patent. The user must determine for itself chemistry in the manufacture of everyday products such as granules, the starch naturally adheres well to the salt, eliminating product and of any information conta bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded starch is mixed with the salt information) for the user’s purpose. The safety Central America India Russia Products mentioned are trademarks of Nouryon bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded starch is mixed with the salt soft feel T +52 55be 5261 7895 issued bulletins on the subject matter covered. the starch can be used to absorb the oils and fragrances used in a soft feel the starch can used to absorb the oils and fragrances used in a manufacturing aid for bath salt applications. As described earlier, bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded starch is mixed with the salt information) for the user’s purpose. The sa by preliminary or (including otherwise the suitability ofhas anyto manufacturing aid forfor bath salt applications. As described earlier, bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded starch is mixed with the salt766no Mexico City, Mexico Toil-loaded +91 22 6842 6700 T as +7 495 1606 the necessity aof fixative. Within the package, there is virtually T +52 55 5261 7895 and registered in many tests countries. formulations described herein not been es but not limited formulati al specialty chemicals leader. Markets worldwide rely on cs, building materials, food, pharmaceuticals, and personal care mistry ingranules, the manufacture everyday products such and Caribbean Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia the starch naturally adheres well to the salt, eliminating bath salt formula. When the starch mixed with the salt granules, the starch naturally adheres well toisis the salt, eliminating the necessity for aabsorb fixative. Within the package, there virtually granules, the starch naturally adheres well to salt, eliminating described has notshou bee product and of any information contained herein Products mentioned are trademarks of Nouryon cs, building materials, food, pharmaceuticals, and personal Theformulations suitability and safety of herein a formulation bath salt formula. When the starch mixed with the salt no information) for the user’s purpose. Th the starch can be used to absorb the oils and fragrances used aiscare bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded starch isthe mixed with salt the starch can be used tonaturally the oils and fragrances used in495 ainthe granules, the starch naturally adheres well to the eliminating Tin +52 55 5261 7895 granules, the starch adheres well to the salt, eliminating Mexico City, Mexico T oil-loaded +91 22 6842 6700 Tsalt, +7 766 1606 separation of the starch from the salt. and registered in many countries. Adsorption characteristics (including but not limited toin formulation and toxicity The suitability and safety of a formulation s chemistry the manufacture of everyday products such as granules, the starch naturally adheres well to the salt, eliminating confirmed all respects by the user prior us ng on our nearly 400-year history, the dedication of our 10,000 the necessity for a fixative. Within the package, there is virtually no the necessity for a fixative. Within the package, there is virtually no formulations described herein hastono the necessity for a fixative. Within the package, there is virtually no uilding materials, food, pharmaceuticals, and personal care separation of the starch from the salt. Adsorption characteristics bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded starch is mixed with the salt information) for the user’s purpose. The safety of any bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded starch is mixed with the salt confirmed in all respects by the user prior Tthe +52 55 5261 7895 granules, the starch naturally adheres well to the salt, eliminating ng on our nearly 400-year history, the dedication of our 10,000 the necessity for a fixative. Within the package, there is virtually no granules, the starch naturally adheres well to the salt, eliminating information contained herein supersedes all prt necessity for a fixative. Within the package, there is virtually no The suitability and safety of a formula The adhesion characteristic is important for both manufacturing the necessity for a fixative. Within the package, there is virtually no formulations described herein has not been established. % mineral oil ,and building materials, food, pharmaceuticals, and personal care separation of the starch from the salt. Adsorption characteristics information herein supersedes a separation of thenaturally starch from the salt. Adsorption characteristics issued bulletins contained oninthe matter covered separation of the starch from the salt. Adsorption characteristics our shared commitment to business growth, strong financial granules, the starch naturally adheres well to salt, eliminating The adhesion characteristic issalt. important for both manufacturing granules, the starch adheres well to thethe salt, eliminating End point confirmed all subject respects the user p mineral oil The suitability and safety ofbulletins a formulation should beby nand ourour nearly 400-year the dedication of our the necessity for ahistory, fixative. Within the package, there is 10,000 virtually separation the starch from the salt. Adsorption characteristics separation of the starch from the Adsorption characteristics the necessity for aof fixative. Within the package, there is virtually no no Adsorption issued on%the subject matter cove commitment to business growth, strong financial adsorbed (w/w) uniformity and prolonged packaging stability. separation of the starch from the salt. Endcharacteristics point The adhesion characteristic isthe important for both manufacturing The adhesion characteristic isthe important for both manufacturing confirmed in all%respects by the prior to use. herein The contained superse Exclusive Agents in%information South Africa g on our shared nearly 400-year the dedication of our 10,000 mineral oil mineral oiluser the necessity for ahistory, fixative. Within package, there is virtually noa the necessity for a fixative. Within package, there is virtually no The adhesion characteristic is important for both manufacturing adsorbed (w/w) uniformity and prolonged packaging stability. Products mentioned are trademarks of Nouryo e, safety, sustainability, and innovation, we have established %previously mineral oil The adhesion characteristic is salt. important both manufacturing The adhesion characteristic isimportant important forfor both manufacturing End point End point characteristics separation of the starch from the Adsorption characteristics separation of the starch from the salt. Adsorption information contained herein supersedes all % mineral oil %Products mineral oil(w/w) issued bulletins on the subject matter our shared commitment to business growth, strong financial The adhesion characteristic ispackaging for both manufacturing mentioned are trademarks of No End point adsorbed (w/w) e, safety, sustainability, and innovation, we have established adsorbed % mineral oil uniformity and prolonged packaging stability. uniformity and prolonged stability. and registered in many countries. About Nouryon separation the starch from the salt. Adsorption characteristics End point End point separation ofof the starch the salt. characteristics issued the subject matter covered. nd our shared commitment tofrom business growth, strong financial aAdsorption End point adsorbed Change in appearance (No Loss ofbulletins Flow)onadsorbed 16 uniformity and prolonged packaging stability. (w/w) adsorbed (w/w) uniformity and prolonged packaging stability. uniformity and prolonged packaging stability. and registered in many countries. (w/w About Nouryon business and built strong partnerships with our customers. The adhesion characteristic is important for both manufacturing The adhesion characteristic is important for both manufacturing adsorbed (w/w) % mineral oil % mineral oil uniformity and prolonged packaging stability. In addition, when the are added to bath water, NATRASORB We arestrong acharacteristic global specialty chemicals leader. Markets on Change in appearance (No%Loss Flow) 16 are trademarks o Theadhesion adhesion characteristic issalts important for both manufacturing The is important for both manufacturing Products mentioned ety, sustainability, and innovation, we have established a Endrely % of mineral mineral oil oilare business and built partnerships with our customers. End point End point Products mentioned trademarks of Nouryon safety, sustainability, and innovation, we have established aworldwide Change in appearance (No (No LossLoss of Flow) 16 adsorbed in appearance of Flow) 16 point End point In addition, when the salts are added to bath water, NATRASORB We are aprolonged global specialty chemicals leader. Markets worldwide rely on Change (w/w) adsorbed (w/w) Loss of free flow 19in many and packaging stability. uniformity and prolonged packaging stability. and registered countries. About Nouryon n over uniformity 80 countries around the world and our portfolio ofproducts adsorbed (w/w) adsorbed (w/w) uniformity and prolonged packaging stability. InIn addition, when the salts are added tocompletely, bath water, NATRASORB uniformity and prolonged packaging stability. our essential chemistry in the manufacture ofwater, everyday suchChange as Change and registered in many countries. About Nouryon addition, when the salts are added to bath NATRASORB BATH starch dissolves readily and releasing the oils in appearance (No Loss of Flow) 16 in appearance (No Loss of Flow) 16 Change in appearance (No Loss of Flow) of free (No flowLoss of Flow) 19 16 Change in Loss appearance ess and built strong partnerships with our customers. n over 80 countries around the world and our portfolio of Inare addition, when the salts are added tocustomers. bath water, NATRASORB usiness and built strong partnerships with our our essential chemistry in the manufacture ofworldwide everyday products such as In addition, when the salts are added to bath water, NATRASORB BATH starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing the oils Loss of free flowflow 1916 19 Loss ofSaturation free In addition, when the salts are added to bath water, NATRASORB In addition, when the salts are added to bath water, NATRASORB We a global specialty chemicals leader. Markets worldwide rely on We are a global specialty chemicals leader. Markets rely on BATH starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing the oils paper, plastics, building materials, food, pharmaceuticals, and personal care BATH starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing the oils (Glistening) ding brands BATH includes Eka, Dissolvine, Trigonox, and Berol.the oils and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. Loss offree free flow 1916 19 16 293 Change in appearance (No Loss of Flow) 16 16 Loss free flow Change inof appearance (No LossLoss of Flow) Change inChange appearance (No Loss of Flow) in appearance (No of Flow) starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing paper, plastics, building materials, food, pharmaceuticals, and personal care Loss of flow BATH starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing the oils Saturation (Glistening) 293 19 Loss of free flow 80 countries around the world and our portfolio of ding includes Eka, Dissolvine, Trigonox, and Berol. and fragrance without leaving residual particulates. In addition, when the salts are added to bath water, NATRASORB our essential chemistry in the manufacture of everyday products such as erover 80brands countries around the world and our portfolio of In addition, when the salts are added to bath water, NATRASORB Saturation (Glistening) 293 19 BATH starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing the oils InIn addition, when the salts are added toany bath water, NATRASORB items. Building on our nearly 400-year history, the dedication of our 10,000 our essential chemistry in the manufacture ofparticulates. everyday products such as and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. Saturation (Glistening) 293 addition, when the salts are added to bath water, NATRASORB BATH starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing the oils and fragrance without leaving any residual Loss of free flow 19 Saturation (Glistening) 293 19 Loss of free flow 19 items. Building on our nearly 400-year history, the dedication of our 10,000 and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. Saturation (Glistening) 293 and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. Loss of free flow BATH starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing the oils paper, plastics, building materials, food, pharmaceuticals, and personal care Loss of free flow 19 BATH starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing the oils Saturation (Glistening) 293 ng brands includes Eka, Dissolvine, Trigonox, and Berol. employees, andreadily our shared commitment to business growth, strong financial and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. BATH starch dissolves and completely, releasing the oils paper, plastics, building materials, food, pharmaceuticals, and personal care Saturation (Glistening) BATH starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing the oils 293 brands includes Eka, Dissolvine, Trigonox, and Berol. and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. employees, and our shared commitment todedication business growth, strong(Glistening) financial Saturation 293 293 ormation visit surfacechemistry.nouryon.com. items. Building on our nearly 400-year history, the of ourestablished 10,000 and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. (Glistening) and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. performance, sustainability, and innovation, we have a (Glistening) 293 293 items. Building on safety, our nearly 400-year history, the dedication ofSaturation our Saturation 10,000 and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. Saturation (Glistening) and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. ormation visit surfacechemistry.nouryon.com. performance, safety, sustainability, and innovation, westrong havecustomers. established a employees, and business our shared commitment topartnerships business growth, financial world-class and built strong with our About Nouryon employees, and our sustainability, shared commitment to business growth, strong financial rmation visit surfacechemistry.nouryon.com. performance, safety, and innovation, we havewith established a 1 world-class business and built strong partnerships our customers. About Nouryon We operate in over 80 countries around the worldwe andhave our portfolio of a rely on tion visit performance, surfacechemistry.nouryon.com. 1 We are asafety, global specialty chemicals leader. worldwide 1 sustainability, and innovation, established world-class business and built strong partnerships with ourMarkets customers. About Nouryon We operate in over 80 countries around the world and ourand portfolio 1 industry-leading brands includes Eka, Dissolvine, Trigonox, Berol. of We are a global specialty chemicals leader. Markets worldwide rely on 1 1 world-class business and built strong partnerships with our customers. essential chemistry in theEka, manufacture of everyday products Weour operate in overspecialty 80 countries around the world and our portfolio of Berol. About Nouryon 1 industry-leading brands includes Dissolvine, Trigonox, and We are a global chemicals leader. Markets worldwide rely on such as 1 our essential chemistry in the manufacture of everyday products such as industry-leading brands includes Eka, Dissolvine, Trigonox, and Berol. We operate in over 80 countries around the world and our portfolio of 1 paper, plastics, building materials, food, and We are amore global specialty chemicals leader. Markets worldwide rely on care 1 our essential chemistry in the manufacture ofpharmaceuticals, everyday products suchpersonal as For information visit surfacechemistry.nouryon.com. paper, plastics, building materials, food,history, pharmaceuticals, andofpersonal care industry-leading brands includes Eka,400-year Dissolvine, Trigonox, and Berol. For more information visit surfacechemistry.nouryon.com. items. Building on our nearly the dedication our 10,000 paper, plastics, building materials, food, pharmaceuticals, and personal care ourForessential chemistry in the manufacture of everyday products such as more information visit surfacechemistry.nouryon.com. items. Building on our nearly 400-year history, the dedication of ourfinancial 10,000 employees, andour our shared commitment to business growth, strong items. Building on nearly 400-year history, the dedication of and our 10,000 paper, plastics, building materials, food, pharmaceuticals, personal care For more information visit surfacechemistry.nouryon.com. employees, and our shared commitment to business growth, strong employees, and our shared commitmentand to business growth, strong financial financial performance, safety, sustainability, innovation, we have established a items. Building onsafety, our nearly 400-year history, the dedication of our 10,000 performance, sustainability, and innovation, we havecustomers. established a performance, safety, sustainability, innovation, we have established a world-class business and builtand strong partnerships with our employees, and our shared commitment to business growth, strong financial world-class business and built strong partnerships with our customers. world-class business and built strong partnerships with our customers. We operate in over 80 countries around the world and our portfolio of performance, and we have operate in over 80 countries around the and world and our established portfolio of a WeWe operate insafety, over 80sustainability, countries around theinnovation, world our portfolio of
NATRASORB BATH BATHStarch Starch NATRASORB
Performance Performanceproperties properties
Performance properties Performance properties Performance properties Performance properties Performance Performance properties Performance properties Performance properties Performance properties Performance properties
ETHNIC CARE / SPONSORED CONTENT
Hyperpigmentation:
a challenge for high melanin content phototypes Skin pigmentation is an international concern. Using Sepiwhite™ MSH and Sepicalm™ VG WP in combination, Seppic demonstrates that these two active ingredients from its Wesource portfolio meet a primary need of darker skin tones – addressing hyperpigmentation.
C
hronological or photoinduced ageing, hormonal
Figure 1: Mechanism of action of Sepiwhite™ MSH
MSH on the MC1R receptor lead to the upstream inhibition of melanogenesis.
disorders (contraceptives,
Complementary tests also demonstrated
pregnancy and menopause,
a downstream inhibition of melanogenesis
etc.), repeated exposure to the sun, and
(see Figure 1), making Sepiwhite™ MSH a
reactions to irritation or inflammation (skin
multi-target lightening agent. In vitro tests were conducted on
healing, acne or the side-effects of medical treatments), lead to the appearance of skin
melanocytes to assess the performance
pigmentary problems.
of Sepiwhite™ MSH on basal and stressinduced conditions. In basal conditions,
Melanogenesis disorders are common in people of colour (phototypes IV to VI).
Sepiwhite™ demonstrated a 66% reduction
These disorders are among the top five
in intracellular melanin production, higher
most common dermatologic diagnoses
than arbutin, kojic acid and magnesium
in individuals of African descent. A recent
ascorbyl phosphate. Even though
study conducted in Durban, KwaZulu-
Sepiwhite™ MSH demonstrated a similar
Natal, noted that dyschromias are the third
melanin reduction level in UVB-induced conditions (66%), it showed the best
most common dermatologic diagnosis in the area. The most common subtypes
factor in the regulation of skin pigmentation.
reduction in Îą-MSH-induced conditions
of pigmentary disorders include (in order
It acts to stimulate melanogenesis via a
(145%), higher than all other benchmarks,
of frequency) vitiligo, post-inflammatory
type 1 membrane receptor, MC1R. Studies
including hydroquinone. The results show
hyperpigmentation and melasma1.
conducted on human skin have shown that
Sepiwhite™ MSH demonstrates extremely
subcutaneous injection of Îą-MSH induced
good tolerance and no phototoxicity.
Stress-induced hyperpigmentation,
Sepiwhite™ MSH was also tested in vivo
due either to UV and/or inflammation, is
hyperpigmentation. The Îą-MSH is increased
an important challenge of high melanin
both in hyperpigmented areas and in
at 2% on different phototypes, ranging from
content phototypes. The demand for even-
areas exposed to UV radiation. A study also
II to V. A first study on phototypes II and III
tone skin makes it an unavoidable topic
revealed that melanogenesis in melasma
(Caucasian women), demonstrated the
for the cosmetics industry. Hydroquinone
involves epithelial secretion of ι-MSH².
prevention of spots on tanned skin and
was used originally and showed very
The MC1R receptors, activated by
good whitening performance. However,
Îą-MSH and its analogues, are inhibited by
the toxicological profile of the molecule
AGRPs (Agouti-related protein), natural
has resulted in it being forbidden in many
antagonists present in skin. These proteins
countries. Other molecules such as arbutin,
have a phenylalanine amino acid in a key
kojic acid and vitamin derivatives are now
position which plays an essential role in
used as safer alternatives in even tone and
binding to MC1R receptors, leading to an
brightening products. Wesource by Seppic,
inhibition of melanogenesis.
represented locally by CJP Chemicals, offers
In light of these findings, SepiwhiteTM
two products with original mechanisms
MSH was developed as a highly purified
of action which not only focus on basal
lipo-amino-acid (Aminovector™), based on
pigmentation but also on stress-induced
phenylalanine. The mechanism of action
melanogenesis, meeting the needs of skin
of Sepiwhite™ MSH relies on its biomimetic
of colour.
composition and structure. The purified
the increase of skin luminosity. A second study performed on phototypes III and IV
Figure 2: Sepicalm™ VG WP increases MIC1 gene expression (of BMP protein family, which disturbs the Wnt pathway)
> : ; 8'< =
1
has a high affinity with the MC1R receptor
Melanocortin, or alpha-Melanocyte-
and competes with its natural ligands.
Stimulating Hormone (Îą-MSH) is a major
The antagonist properties of Sepiwhiteâ&#x201E;˘
20
| APRIL 2020 | P C Review
/
76 012345676
/
3 /
undecylenoyl phenylalanine molecule
SepiwhiteTM MSH
6' '
64 3 89
854 2
859"3 347$6
!"$%763%5& '2 "& '3"4 & '74 & 93()*3& 542+
,. /0123,4540.,
ETHNIC CARE / SPONSORED CONTENT
Figure 3: Results of the in vivo test with Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP: ITA° measurement on skin baseline versus measurement on spots
Figure 4: Synergy of Sepiwhiteâ&#x201E;˘ MSH and Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP
01234564890 1
0123453617 905
0123 97 42
0123453617 905
0123 9 42
89 8 1 4436 01234564890 1
89 8 1 4436 01234564890 1
89 8 1 4436 01234564890 1
89 8 1 4436
128 53 681 8 (Asian women) showed universal effects
was downregulated. Seppic then assumed
effect of combining these two products on
on complexion â&#x20AC;&#x201C; skin was lightened,
that Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP could decrease
melanocytes, by measuring the extracellular
skin luminosity increased and redness
basal pigmentation by inhibiting the Wnt/β-
melanin content (see Figure 4).
decreased, revealing radiant skin without
Catenin pathway (see Figure 2).
irritation. A third study, done on phototypes
Following these results, tests were
The combination of 40 ppm Sepiwhiteâ&#x201E;˘ MSH with 5 ppm Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP
IV and V (African and Indian women),
performed on reconstructed epidermis to
doubles the efficacy in the reduction of
demonstrated significant lightening and
measure the melanin content after seven
melanin versus Sepiwhiteâ&#x201E;˘ MSH 50 ppm or
luminosity results from seven days. After
days of treatment with a cream containing
Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP 5 ppm alone.
21 days, a visible reduction in the number
3% Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP versus a placebo.
100% of the volunteers agreed their skin was more uniform, clearer and more luminous of dark spots was observed for 83% of the
The first assay was realised with phototype
volunteers. A total of 100% of the volunteers
VI melanocytes in basal conditions
agreed their skin was more uniform, clearer
(without any stress). After seven days,
and more luminous.
melanin content was reduced by 31%. The second assay was realised with phototype
Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP
IV melanocytes in UVB stress-induced
A mixture of palmitoyl proline and white
conditions (50mJ/cm²). Melanin content
water lily extract, namely Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG
was reduced by 49%.
WP, demonstrated interesting two-in-one
WP not only target basal pigmentation but also stress-induced melanogenesis involved in high melanin-content phototypes and assist with achieving even tone. â&#x20AC;˘
REFERENCES: 1. Dlova N.C., Akintilo L.O. and Taylor S.C., 2019. Prevalence of pigmentary disorders: A cross-sectional study in public hospitals in Durban, South Africa. Int J Womens Dermatol. 13(5): 345-348. 2. EspĂłsito A.C.C., Brianezi G., De Souza N.P. & Co., 2018. Exploring pathways for sustained melanogenesis in facial
Finally, a clinical study realised on
properties. Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP showed
phototypes III and IV volunteers (Asian
lightening and soothing benefits, making
women) showed a higher efficacy of
it of interest in addressing stress-induced
Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP on dark spots versus
hyperpigmentation.
normal skin (see Figure 3), after two months.
In a UVB stress-induced keratinocyte
All of the abovementioned results showed that Sepiwhiteâ&#x201E;˘ MSH and Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG
The ITA° measurement of spots increased
model, inflammatory mediators like
for 88% of volunteers versus 64% for normal
interleukin-1 and endothelin-1 were reduced
skin. A total of 94% of volunteers observed
in the presence of Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP, by
a reduction in the size and intensity of
28% and 120% respectively. Endothelin-1
dyschromia spots.
melasma: an immunofluorescence study. Int J Cosmet Sci. 40(4): 420-424. 3. Teraki E., Tajima S., Manaka I. & Co., 1996. Role of endothelin-1 in hyperpigmentation in seborrhoeic keratosis.
Br J Dermatol. 135(6): 918-23.
4. Park P.J., Lee T.R. and Cho E.G., 2015. Substance P stimulates endothelin 1 secretion via endothelin-converting enzyme 1 and promotes melanogenesis in human melanocytes. J Invest Dermatol. 135(2): 551-559.
is a peptide believed to be involved in the hyperpigmentation seen in seborrheic
Synergistic effects
keratosis3. Another study revealed its
Sepiwhiteâ&#x201E;˘ MSH and Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘
involvement in stress- and wound-induced
VG WP both demonstrated specific
pigmentation4.
mechanisms of action associated with
Effects on melanogenesis pathways were
basal pigmentation and stress-induced
Tel: +27 (0)11 494 6700
also observed in vitro. An analysis on key
melanogenesis. Both products act on
E-mail: info@cjpchemicals.co.za
melanocyte gene expression revealed an
different pathways, so Seppic assumed
Website: www.cjpchemicals.co.za
upregulation of the MIC1 gene expression
they could have complementary effects.
www.seppic.com
whereas the tyrosinase gene expression
An in vitro evaluation showed the synergistic
P C Review â&#x20AC;&#x201A; | â&#x20AC;&#x201A; APRIL 2020 â&#x20AC;&#x201A; | â&#x20AC;&#x201A; 21
ETHNIC CARE
Skinarch and the art of building collagen In diversity, we can find a common element that unites us. This is the beauty of skin architecture and the inherent biotensegrity of all biological structures. Skinarch by LipoTrue is a novel peptide that enables cosmetics to fully explore the disruptive trend of inclusive beauty and to celebrate the differences of all skin types.
T
he peptide Skinarch (INCI:
presence of the peptide
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-72 Amide)
was performed using a
allows brands to embrace
turbidity test (phases
the inclusive beauty trend by
determined according
addressing two common features in
to fibrillogenesis
all ethnicities – skin architecture and
reference curve).
tensegrity. Tensegrity is key for collagen fibres and only a good network formation ensures it. The peptide increases Mohawk, a novel key player in the field of cosmetics, which may be considered the architect of the skin, promoting the formation of
0.001mg/mℓ, 0.005mg/mℓ and 0.01mg/mℓ of the
DID YOU KNOW? LipoTrue is focused on obtaining
peptide for 48 hours. Significant increases of 11%, 17% and 41%
respectively, were advanced active ingredients observed versus through cutting-edge technological platforms. Each technological artificially aged the basal control. platform has its own specialised human skin explants Turbidity tests R&D team, which is coordinated to (sourced from a showed that the offer a solid portfolio of premium active ingredients, both in 54-year-old), were peptide was able to efficacy and innovative treated with the peptide increase the velocity concepts. Young and
for 10 days to evaluate
and the amount
new and well-organised collagen I and
collagen quality, density and
III fibres, together with collagen VI, for a
the amount thereof; as well as the
proper biotensegrity which counteracts
fibre thickness and organisation by TEM;
solution, in a dose-response manner,
collagen fibril degeneration as we age.
and conventional dye binding.
as observed with 0.01mg/mℓ and
Skinarch also works on the four collagen
of spontaneous fibrils formation in a collagen
0.04mg/mℓ of the peptide.
families: fibrillar collagens; connecting
In vitro and ex vivo results
The evaluation of collagen quality,
and anchoring collagens; network-
Using NGS, the Mohawk homeobox
density, amount, thickness and quantity
forming collagens and collagen-like
gene was found, amongst others, to be
and organisation of fibres evaluated with
membrane proteins.
upregulated 1.32-fold. This was validated
TEM, showed the peptide was able to
via the Mohawk protein expression with a
improve those attributes, rejuvenating
skin architecture to fight against wrinkles
significant increase of 31%, 51% and 81%
the skin’s architecture by 10 years
and sagging has been proven in a varied
versus the placebo in a dose-response
(see Figure 2).
panel of volunteers with light-pigmented
manner at 0.001mg/mℓ, 0.005mg/mℓ
(phototype II to III) and dark-pigmented
and 0.01mg/mℓ of Skinarch.
The inclusive efficacy of Skinarch on
(phototype V to VI) skin. Results showed
The qPCR demonstrated an
Skinarch reduces crow’s feet wrinkles and
upregulation of the fold change in the
roughness on the cheek area for both
genes of the skin collagen families,
types of the phototype. The novel peptide
such as fibrillar (1.16 COL3, 1.18 COL5),
also had an innovative restructuring and
connecting (1.16 COL6, 1.45 COL7, 1.70
firming effect on the face architecture.
COL12, 1.38 COL14), networking (1.17
Figure 1: Immunofluorescence F-actin (in red) and Mohawk (in green)
COL4) and collagen-like membrane
Methods In the fibroblasts, a qPCR evaluated
proteins (1.20 COL13). Since the Col6A1 gene is involved in
gene expression related to the four main
the fibrillogenesis of type I collagen, an
collagen families: fibrillar collagens;
increase in protein levels was observed
connecting collagens; network collagens
after incubation in the fibroblasts with
and collagen-like membrane proteins. Thereafter, an Elisa test was performed in the fibroblasts to evaluate the increase of the protein levels of two main
Figure 2: TEM analysis of younger skin (54-year-old skin explant, hOSECs) and aged skin (hOSECs skin explant treated with 5µg/mL hydrocortisone for 5 days, equivalent to a 68-year-old explant). The aged skin was treated daily for 10 days with a cream containing 1% Skinarch
upregulated genes – Mohawk and collagen VI. Immunofluorescence was used to confirm the localisation of Mohawk (nucleus), being the newly identified protein (transcription factor). See Figure 1. The study of spontaneous collagen fibril formation in the absence or
22
| APRIL 2020 | P C Review
Younger skin
Aged skin
Aged skin + placebo
Aged skin + 1% Skinarch
ETHNIC CARE Figure 3: VECTRA-XT whole face images of volunteers (left volunteer is aged 60 and the volunteer on the right is aged 50), who experienced a full-face lifting and plumping effect after 56 days, after applying a cream with 2% Skinarch Left
Figure 4: Crow’s feet AEVA-HE image of a volunteer, aged 54 who experienced a 54% decrease in wrinkle volume and 10% decrease in wrinkle depth, after applying a cream with 2% Skinarch, before (left) and after (right) 28 days
Right
Clinical instrumental evaluation
28 days on average volunteers. After
Proven effective
Two panels of female volunteers with skin
56 days of application, the wrinkle volume
Through the evaluation of a key skin
phototypes II to III and V to VI applied
in the crow’s feet area of dark-pigmented
care application known as biotensegrity,
a cream containing 2% of Skinarch,
volunteers decreased significantly, by
LipoTrue provides the cosmetics industry
which was subsequently compared to a
41%. Using new VECTRA-XT software, a
with a novel molecule that can sculpt
placebo cream. Treatment was extended
dramatic lifting effect was observed
the architecture of the face. This is done
to 56 days with a twice-daily application.
on a phototype V to VI volunteer, with
by targeting a novel player in skin care,
the highest improvement on the end-
Mohawk, which is involved in the expression
cheek area.
of key collagens and tissue organisation to
Using AEVA-HE, average roughness (Ra) decreased significantly by 4% after 56 days on all the volunteers. Average relief
A sculpting effect was observed on a
(Rz) was significantly reduced by 7% after
phototype II to III volunteer with a plumping
56 days on light-pigmented volunteers.
effect noticed in the shallow areas around
The crow’s feet area was significantly
the eyes and a defining effect on the
decreased by 7% versus the placebo after
cheek contours (see Figure 3).
AAFF-LIPOTRUE- SKINARCH - ANUNCIO 177x130mm-TRAZ.pdf
1
26/3/20
guarantee proper firmness and resilience within the skin. •
LipoTrue – www.lipotrue.com
15:25
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
P C Review | APRIL 2020 | 23
ETHNIC CARE
Green is the new black
Natural ingredients are increasingly being used in conventional hair and beauty products. If you’re interested in developing natural and organic hair and skin care products for the African market, Natura-tec, represented locally by AECI Specialty Chemicals, offers a range of solutions that meet current market demands.
A
ctive ingredients from natural
Alternative to synthetic raw materials
Thanks to the
sources are becoming
research on hair’s
increasingly sought after by
anatomy and
consumers who are eager
various advanced
Plantsil is a universal emollient for
to achieve a beautiful, healthy look for
technologies, it’s
cosmetics. It restores suppleness
their hair and skin. This includes avoiding
possible to develop
and elasticity to skin and hair. When
the use of ingredients perceived as either
ingredients that
applied, the sensation is light and
harsh or synthetic.
bring the benefits
non-greasy, like a caress on the skin.
By using plant- and vegetable-based
Rapidly absorbed, it leaves a
of vegetable-
products, consumers benefit from the
based materials to
unique soft sensation and powdery
sense of ‘being kind to their bodies’. They
modern cosmetics.
finish. Its long-lasting silky feel
also feel empowered by using nature’s own
These ingredients
creates a satin effect in skin and hair
range of chemical compounds to protect
are delivered in an
and nourish their hair.
effective, stable and
Abysoft from Natura-tec is a COSMOS-
purified form, meeting
care applications. Graphical representation of hair growth
In a base shampoo, studies conducted by Natura-tec confirm
approved multifunctional performance
the acceptance and
that the behaviour and effect of
enhancer for skin, makeup and hair care
expectations of consumers and allowing
Plantsil on hair is similar to that
applications. This multitasking complex
brands to truly revisit the original ‘cosmetic
of silicone.
combines and enhances the benefits of
art of nature’.
Crambe abyssinica seed oil with the bioactive effects of phytosterols. Its nutritional
Good hair health
and replenishing properties contribute
Modern science provides a deep
to formulating this exceptional complex
understanding of the structure of hair and
adapted for intensive benefits for the hair.
its response to different treatments. The hair shaft is comprised of three layers of
Abysoft complex
keratin, including the medulla, cortex and
Hair is one of the most important aspects
the cuticle. Keratin is a protein made up
of a person’s appearance, and the
of 18 amino acids. It is produced by the
apparent health of an individual’s hair also
keratinocytes located in the hair bulb.
reflects their overall health as well as their
Cuticles have evolved to protect the soft
attitude to maintaining their appearance.
fibres of the cortex and medulla, while the
African hair comes in many different
overlapping scales of the cuticle work as a
textures and it’s versatile and resilient. It
first line of defence against pollutants and
holds braided hairstyles, is worn natural
mechanical stress.
by many and can be relaxed for whatever reason the consumer chooses. Healthy African hair has a great impact
The hair shaft serves many purposes, including regulating body temperature, protecting a sensitive scalp and facilitating
on one’s confidence and sense of well-
the evaporation of sweat. However, like a
being. Previous studies on hair applications
filter, it attracts and holds environmental
demonstrate that Abysoft (now referred to
pollutants, which, when added to traces
as ‘the complex’) improves hair elasticity,
of styling products and physiological
increases the brightness of hair, and shows
processes, may dull and
a significant conditioning effect with an
damage the hair. As a result,
immediate influence on the increase of hair
gentle, thorough
volume. The complex can also be used as a
cleansing is essential
replenishing agent with a perceivable and
for good
beneficial sensorial performance.
hair health.
24
| APRIL 2020 | P C Review
ETHNIC CARE
Hair also needs lipids in order to be as healthy as possible. Some lipids are a constituent part of the hair shaft, while others are produced by the sebaceous glands. Lipids produced at the hair bulb include sterols, fatty acids and ceramides. They are mainly present in the intercellular cement of the cortex and the cuticle and give hair a level of permeability. They also ensure the cohesion of the cells within the hair fibre. The sebaceous glands, attached to hair follicles, produce sebum. This mixture of triglycerides, waxes and squalene lubricates the hair, maintaining its flexibility and gloss. Abysoft has been proven to provide increased hair volume, elasticity and brightness, making it an ideal choice for formulators looking to create products that offer comprehensive hair health benefits. It leaves a protective veil like a second skin and provides an excellent conditioning and protective effect on the hair. It’s also an excellent moisturising agent and protects and maintains hair’s natural vitality against mechanical and environmental stress. Abysoft increases the skin’s hydration rate by more than 60% after five days of application and protects the cutaneous barrier. It can also be used as a replenishing agent and has the ability to improve pigment dispersion
Abysoft has been proven to provide increased hair volume, elasticity and brightness
in makeup and beauty products.
Hair growth and strength active SeaRenew is the result of advanced research and careful development based on sustainable microalgae technology using eco-friendly industrial production processes combined with renewable sapote oil crops, which preserve biodiversity and support disadvantaged communities. Positioned as a hair growth and strength active, SeaRenew is a new, sustainable and fully renewable liposoluble ingredient with high vegetable cholesterol content. It is based on sapote oil – a sustainable and active oil that is a source of triterpene alcohols, sterols and omega 6 and 9 – and Nannochloropsis oceanica extract. This extract is the first substantial source of cholesterol in the vegetable world with one of the highest concentrations of sterols (>70% sterol total). Cholesterol plays an important role in hair vitality by protecting it from dehydration and dysregulation of the microbial ecosystem. SeaRenew is a cell proliferation inducer of hair follicle fibroblasts, confirming its extensive potential to promote hair strength and growth. The sapote oil is ideal for stimulating hair growth and to care for dry, curly or ethnic hair. It’s gentle on the most sensitive scalps and acts on slowing hair loss. With SeaRenew, the scalp is soothed and nourished and the hair is brighter and smoother. Its subtle almond odour complements hair care products, such as conditioners and balms. •
Natura-tec – www.naturatec.com AECI Specialty Chemicals – Charmaine.dupreez@aeciworld.com
P C Review | APRIL 2020 | 25
PHARMA FOCUS//Technology FOCUS & Software Solutions
Manufacturer drives profitable growth by installing new software Peppina has been experiencing unprecedented growth in the demand for its services. As a result, the pharma contract manufacturer has been fast outgrowing its legacy infrastructure and current method of managing operations. This prompted a strategic decision to implement SAP Business One to progress from manual to automated reporting.
L
iesl Groenewald, operations
with manufacturing would now be
information, the ability to capture batch
manager at Peppina, explains:
accounting for the largest part of our
numbers and expiry dates, full integration,
“Our legacy system was largely
business,” says Groenewald.
automation and absolute traceability.”
Growth, challenges and opportunity
The right vendor and solution
captured by hand and on Excel, predominantly by one individual. Not
Peppina’s growth trajectory has shown
representative from 4most Systems, a
only was this incredibly time-consuming,
no sign of slowing down. This and the
leading supplier and implementer of
but the scope for mistakes and human
strict industry regulations and processes
SAP Business One and ERP software
error was fast becoming an unnecessary
associated with pharma manufacturing,
technology. Groenewald believed
challenge, potentially hindering
pushed the company to review potential
Peppina had potentially found the
what could otherwise be a far more
technology solutions. The right solution
answer for its day-to-day needs and the
streamlined and efficient way of
had to be capable of enabling
doing business.”
Peppina to meet current
responsible for the sales portion
of our business. Everything else was
Founded in 1956 as a mail
requirements while
order business, Peppina is one of
supporting continued
approximately 24 contract manufacturers
future growth.
in South Africa, specialising in pharmaceutical production. Headquartered in Johannesburg, Peppina enjoys a national and global presence. The products manufactured at its facility are available on both the local and international market and it offers an online shopping facility for its own branded products. “We made the move from mail order
Peppina was contacted by a
DID YOU KNOW?
more unique areas specific to the stringent requirements of the pharma industry.
“I had not realised SAP helps give people and the amount of organisations deep business insight It was clear customisation and fosters collaboration that helps them stay ahead of their competition. Peppina required possible and The ERP solutions provider simplifies a fully integrated afforded by SAP technology for companies so that they can consume SAP’s software the way they system, capable Business One,” she want – without disruption. SAP’s end-toof customisation says. “It’s as if we end suite of applications and services enables more than 440 000 business where necessary, were able to take and public customers to operate in order to meet the top off-the-shelf profitably, adapt continuously its unique industry package suitable to and to make a difference. related requirements. our needs and customise “We weren’t interested
it to create a solution
to producing our own products 30
in developing anything from
years ago. However, it was only about
the ground up or running separate
requirements and the industry in which
eight years ago that we began the
packages,” stresses Groenewald. “Our
we operate.”
manufacturing side of our business,
requirements included automatic stock
never once predicting our success
reconciliation, real-time access to
26
| APRIL 2020 | P C Review
best suited to our environment,
Peppina gathered positive feedback and recommendations on the
PHARMA FOCUS//Technology FOCUS & Software Solutions Secondly, the sharing of information
be corrected instantly, removing any
gives a lot more people access to data,
potential knock-on effect. Peppina now
faster and more efficiently than ever
knows exactly what is in-coming, where
before. Long gone are the days of one
it’s been dispatched from and what
person owning all the information.
quantity, all of which plays a major role in improving daily efficiencies. Industry
Sound business decision
compliance also requires that the
The pharma industry and its
company runs a mock recall every
accompanying regulations make for very time-consuming processes, irrespective of the underlying
Peppina’s private label vitamin brand, Symbio-D
company after conducting market research on 4most Systems as a vendor. She adds: “4most’s reputation as one of the leading local vendors for SAP Business One cemented our commitment to move forward, not only with implementing SAP Business One, but also with 4most as our chosen service provider.” On 1 March 2019, Peppina went live with its new installation of SAP Business One. The first few months proved challenging considering the change management and getting used to a new set of processes and an entirely different system.
The management of Peppina’s stock levels has benefitted exponentially from SAP Business One
year, which is easy to do via SAP Business One. Whilst the procurement process has
technology infrastructure. A set
benefitted from the new technology
of physically signed-off paper
infrastructure, there are some final
copies needs to be kept as part of
tweaks Groenewald would like to
compliance. However, the beauty of a
investigate together with a few smaller
fully automated and integrated system
issues pertaining to the display of
means that any human errors are now
currencies within its financial reporting.
identified immediately. “If something is captured incorrectly
“Realistically, it probably takes about a year from initial implementation
by hand, it will be evident as soon as
to completely iron out all chinks,”
it’s entered into the system,” comments
says Groenewald. “But we are so
Groenewald. “And I can simply log
much further down the road than we
on to SAP Business One to find all the
have ever been and look forward to
information I need so much quicker
continuing both our investment in SAP
than what was previously possible. The
Business One and our relationship with
customised reporting is also a great
4most into the future.” •
tool to have. Literally, at the press of a button, I can access a report on whatever I require, with the costing of
4most Systems – www.4most.co.za SAP Business One – www.sap.com
products in real time possible too.” The management of Peppina’s stock levels has benefitted exponentially, with SAP Business One providing the functionality to not only realise any potential errors immediately but also allowing for the errors to
“No matter how much training one has, it is only in the actual ‘doing’ that one can really learn, thereby making a new system one’s own,” says Groenewald. “There were also things that we didn’t know, we didn’t know. For example, customising customer statements and invoices to suit a business’s corporate identity and financial regulations, as opposed to simply running SAP Business One’s generic templates. But, as we learned, we got better.” Despite the challenges, two very significant benefits are already yielding advantages for Peppina. The first is transparency. Once information is captured onto the SAP Business One system, it is there, and there is no hiding. This allows for complete accountability.
P C Review | APRIL 2020 |
27
PHARMA FOCUS//Technology FOCUS & Software Solutions
Level up & join the fight against counterfeiting Annually, pharmaceutical counterfeiting puts millions of lives at risk. In order to address this growing problem, governments around the world are taking action by implementing serialisation requirements. By Abby Vorster
S
imilar to the requirements of Europe’s
10 years. We are one of the actors
Falsified Medicines Directive, South
working on all levels, from zero to four,
Africa will be joining the global
and are now moving into working on
fight against counterfeit medicines
level five,’ Sliski explains. ‘Levels zero
with the promulgation of track and trace
to three are often for manufacturers
regulations, centred on product serialisation.
to define their serialisation approach to be
These regulations will be phased in providing
interoperable. Zero is the machine, one is the
manufacturers with enough time for
marking and verification technologies and
science and more recently dairy milk, Zetes
adequate preparation. Ultimately, all local
two to three are the serialisation software
provides a comprehensive range of solutions
pharma manufacturers should be compliant
levels on the line at factory level, linking to
proven to ensure agility and traceability.
by 2022.
level 4 and integrated with the ERP. Level four
A look at the levels
Serialisation and aggregation levels explained
‘We are an ideal partner for pharma
is at the company level, which manages
manufacturers to help secure and control
the status of the unique identifiers and their
their supply chains, while ensuring global
If you’re considering implementing a
business evolution. It also collects and shares
visibility,’ adds Sliski. ‘With Zetes, you will
serialisation project and are unsure about
information concerning unique identifiers
be able to comply with all traceability
what will meet your needs, Sébastien Sliski,
with other level fours and publishes the
regulations, combat counterfeiting, secure
Zetes’ serialisation expert, says the best way to
information to the government repository
your distribution channels, achieve delivery
understand serialisation and aggregation is
(level five). This is the repository where all
service level agreements and in the event
to think in levels. This helps to break down and
the actors publish serialised numbers for
of a recall, you will be equipped to manage
define the different components in line with
controlling and checking.’
this efficiently.’ •
your needs, whether you’re manufacturing medicines or dispensing them. ‘Zetes has been working on serialisation solutions for different markets for about
Agility and traceability guaranteed Based on the global trend to secure markets such as pharmaceuticals, tobacco, agro-
Zetes – www.zetes.com
YOUR SERIALISATION EXPERTS Single source track and trace solutions for Pharma supply chain Trusted by major EMEA companies Scalable and agile approach
W WA AN NTT TTO OK KN NO OW WM MO OR REE V VIISSIITT W WW WW W..ZZEETTEESS..C CO OM M IIN NFFO O@ @ZZA A..ZZEETTEESS..C CO OM M
28
| APRIL 2020 | P C Review
Innovative facility upgrades for local pharma manufacturer
A
t its production plant
INSTALLATION
The Watson-Marlow 530 pump
in North Riding,
was the obvious choice for many
Johannesburg, the Acorn
reasons. This pump type maintains
Group is benefitting from
process integrity and offers flow rates
dosing accuracy and consistency
up to 3.5ℓ per minute at two bar
provided by a Watson-Marlow 530
pressure. In addition, there are four
peristaltic process pump. The
drive and five pumphead options,
pump is being used to transfer bulk
along with a wide range of tube sizes
aerosol concentrates.
and materials.
The Acorn Group is a dynamic, specialises in the formulation,
Innovative, reliable and compliant
manufacturing, testing and
The new pump forms part of a much
distribution of topical pharmaceutical
bigger upgrade recently completed
creams, stick products and aerosols.
at the Acorn Group’s production
It also produces domestic products
plant. This upgrade included the
ranging from detergents to insect
fitment and qualification of new
repellents, including the well-known
reverse osmosis services, peristaltic
Tabard, Vapona, Teepol and
pumps, HEPA filtration, bio-safety
Carbro brands.
cabinets and high-speed roller doors.
The right pump for the job
facility was modified to create the
Aerosol concentrate is not viscous
isolation of processes and allow for
or shear sensitive, and there are no
trafficable ceilings. As a result, it now
extreme temperatures involved in its
boasts class 8 ISO air, with a pressure
production. While pumping aerosol
cascade and linear product and
concentrate appears straightforward,
personnel flow paths.
family-owned business that
The structure of the manufacturing
there is a key requirement for
Being a South African Health
precision, which lead Acorn in search
Products Regulatory Authority
of a suitable pump to meet its needs
registered GMP facility means
for accuracy and quality. The group
there is an uncompromising
found a solution in the Watson-
attitude at the Acorn Group
Marlow 530 process pump with
towards safety, efficacy, constancy,
a 520R2 pumphead and
and compliance. The group’s
silicone continuous tubing which is
organogram reflects an experienced
capable of dosing with just about
and dedicated pharmaceutical
1% accuracy.
team capable of maintaining these
“To provide a summary of the process, bulk aerosol concentrate
required standards. As an independent
is drawn from a 100ℓ stainless steel
pharmaceutical contract
holding tank with constant head
manufacturer, the Acorn Group
height and transferred via the Watson-
remains flexible to its clients’ needs.
Marlow 530 pump into aerosol tins.
The family feel within the company
The accuracy and consistency of
not only ensures that staff remain
dosing via the pump is thus critical.
motivated but also guarantees
Thereafter, a valve is added and
the success of the company for
crimped, and propellant introduced
future generations. •
via the gassing plant,” comments Robert Verseput, a representative from Acorn Group, who is helping to enhance the company’s business model and expand its distribution network globally.
The Acorn Group – www.acorngroup.co.za Watson-Marlow – www.watson-marlow.com
P C Review | APRIL 2020 | 29
HOME CARE
Bleach systems to deliver hygiene benefits in laundry detergents
Consumers require new aspects of performance from detergent components, driving the demand for laundry detergents with ‘hygiene’ or ‘sanitising’ claims. Jane Mathews and Eve De Maesschalck of Lubrizol Advanced Materials explain the importance of bleach systems in laundry detergents where hygiene effectiveness is key.
G
overnments and the
Discussion and results
Figure 2). Results show detergent alone fails
World Health Organization
Within a laundry detergent formulation,
to pass the ASTM test (49g detergent with
have released a variety
a bleach system is primarily employed
12 minutes contact time at 30°C), which
of guidelines and
for the removal of coloured bleachable
requires a Log 3 reduction in bacteria to be
recommendations to manage, control
stains through the oxidation of stains
achieved. However, the addition of TAED/
and reduce the spread of diseases. The
either on a fabric surface or in the
PCS to deliver 150ppm PAAH clearly passes
most basic protection usually involves
wash liquor. In addition to stain removal
the ASTM E2406-09 test.
frequent hand washing with soap and
and maintaining the colour of white
water or using alcohol-based hand rub.
textiles, the bleach system also provides
However, disinfecting clothes, linens and
the functions of ensuring fabric and
Preventing microbial contamination
washing machines can also help reduce
machine hygiene. The most well-
It has been widely reported that microbial
possible spread of germs and ensure
established laundry bleach system is
build-up can occur in washing machines3.
hygiene in the home.
the bleach activator TAED (tetra acetyl
The impact of ineffective biocidal control
ethylene diamine) which is used
can result in the appearance of unsightly
Historically, laundry detergents have been employed to clean clothing and domestic household items, primarily to remove specific stains from the laundry wash load. Yet dirt and microbes can contaminate textiles. Clothing and linen are a risk factor for transmission
DID YOU KNOW?
in conjunction with sodium percarbonate (PCS) to form
As laundry wash habits peracetic acid (PAAH), and machine wash shown in the reaction in conditions continue to evolve globally, the focus Figure 1. on sustainability presents PAAH generated from challenges to detergent formulators. TAED is gentle the PCS/TAED contained on the environment, readily biodegradable, and of very in powder detergent low toxicity, delivering formulations is responsible the safe generation of PAAH. for low temperature
of infections and illnesses. The spread of diseases via soiled clothing,
bleaching and broad-spectrum biocidal performance ensuring both the
dark coloured biofilms, which adhere to the inner machine seal, fabric conditioner dispensing drawer and sump (see Figure 3). These biofilms can detach during the wash cycle and attach to washed fabrics contaminating the clean clothes and resulting in the need to re-wash fabrics. The results of testing under multicycle washing conditions at 30°C, in the presence and absence of an activated bleach system, are shown in Figure 4. The gradual build-up of microbial
as well as malodour issues, can be
washing machine and laundered fabrics
contamination over 30 wash cycles
prevented through the use of laundry
are hygienically clean¹. The hygiene
is clearly indicated when a non-
detergents with antimicrobial efficacy.
benefit delivered through the bleach
bleach detergent is used with a fabric
Over recent years several changes
system is now becoming increasingly
conditioner. After only 10 cycles, the total
have occurred in the laundry detergent
important, particularly under conditions
aerobic bacterial count reaches Log 4 (10
market which have in turn driven changes
of high soil loading and as high
000 bacteria cells/cm³), in the sump and
in consumer washing practises. The
temperature washing is now less frequent,
drum. This level of bacteria amounts to
heating of water in the washing machine
preventing thermal disinfection.
hygiene concerns.
cycle is widely recognised as the activity
Many washing machines also have the
Malodour was also noted in the
that consumes the most energy. To
option of quick wash cycles, which include
machine from 10 cycles, again indicating
address the needs of sustainability,
a reduced length of main wash time and
a microbial increase. This build up can
consumers are advised to wash at lower
result in reduced exposure to the biocidal
be reduced through the presence of a
wash temperatures to deliver energy
effect of detergent and temperature2.
bleaching agent generating 130ppm
savings. Additionally, the amount of water
In the absence of a bleach system,
used in a wash cycle has decreased over
ineffective control of microorganisms
the last 20 years.
on fabrics can potentially cause health
A study by Lubrizol Advanced
problems for society’s most vulnerable,
Materials demonstrates that the use of
including young children, the elderly
tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED) in
and people with compromised
combination with sodium percarbonate
immune systems2.
(PCS) can deliver effective hygiene
Testing has shown that in the
performance benefits and compensate
absence of bleach a reduced kill of
for the loss of hygiene effectiveness of
microorganisms is delivered – illustrated
washing at lower temperatures.
in the ASTM HE laundry test E2406-09 (see
30
| APRIL 2020 | P C Review
Figure 1: Bleach activator chemistry of TAED used in conjunction with a peroxide source to form PAAH in a laundry detergent
HOME CARE Figure 2: The inclusion of a bleaching agent can increase the kill of microorganisms (Klebsiella pneumoniae and Staph. Aureus), in the ASTM HE laundry test E2406-09. The addition of TAED/sodium percarbonate to deliver 150ppm PAAH passes the ASTM HE laundry test E2406-09 test at 30°C as indicated by the red arrow (Log 3 reduction)
Figure 3a & b: Dark coloured biofilms adhering to the inner machine seal (a) and to the fabric conditioner dispensing drawer (b)
3a
PAAH as illustrated in Figure 4. Odour build up was also avoided.
Addressing fabric malodour
3b
Figure 4a: Build-up of total aerobic bacteria count when no bleaching agent is present during front loader, 30°C wash, with soiled ballast when using liquid laundry detergent and fabric conditioner – repeat cycles (fiver wash cycles per week) b:Reduction in total aerobic bacterial count through addition of bleach booster (TAED/sodium percarbonate powder generating 130 ppm PAAH).
4a
4b
Malodour, as a result of poor microbial control, is one consequence frequently noticed by consumers 4, 5. The drying stage of laundering often reduces the level of microbes. But when drying occurs slowly under hot humid conditions, microorganisms increase in number and continue to metabolise, generating odour. Consumers also complain of odour ‘blooming’ on sportswear. This occurs when microbial contamination of fabrics causes the release of pungent volatile organic chemicals from microbes that become trapped in fibres and slowly release when the fabrics’ temperature increases during wear. This can be
REFERENCES: 1. Honisch.M, Stamminger.R, Bockmuhl.D.P, Journal of Applied Microbiology 117, 1787-1797 (2014) 2. Honisch.M, Branda D, Weide M, SpeckmannH, Stamminger R, Bockmuhl.D, Tenside Surf. Det. 53 547-552 (2016)
for the group’s EMEA region home care
5. Stapleton.K, Hill.K, Day.K, Perry.J.D, Dean. J.R, Letters in Applied Microbiology
bleach activator. •
Mostyn site where she is responsible for managing R&D and technical support
of TAED/PCS in a laundry detergent,
distributor of Lubrizol Advanced Materials’
at Lubrizol Advanced Materials’
4. Amberg.C, SOFW Journal 140, 3-2014, 64-74 Applied Microbiology, 56, 299-306 2013, The Society of
Saxony Chemicals is the South African
Jane Mathews is the technical manager
3. Henning.K, SOFW Journal 138 10-2012, 64-70
prevented, thanks to the inclusion increasing the kill of microorganisms.
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
business and globally for TAED. Eve De Maesschalck, senior scientist at Lubrizol Advanced Materials, is responsible for
Lubrizol Advanced Materials – www.lubrizol.com Saxony Chemicals – www.saxonychemicals.com
developing home care applications and providing technical support to customers.
Saxony Chemicals is a leading supplier of speciality raw materials into the South African detergent industry. Product range includes: • TAED (tetraacetylethylenediamine) • Sodium Perborates • Optical Brightening Agents 207 Sameja Drive, Dunkirk Estate , Salt Rock 4391, Kwa-Zulu Natal Tel: +27 (0) 82 466 2833 | Email: chris@saxonychemicals.co.za www.saxonychemicals.com
P C Review | APRIL 2020 |
31
HOME CARE
Texture – a differentiator to drive convenience
The magic that connects a formulation to its packaging is known as texture. It speaks to the senses and has a strong visual and tactile impact on the consumer. Jacques Strydom, technical manager of AECI Specialty Chemicals discusses how texture can be a differentiator in the home care market.
H
ow many times have you bought
purpose cleaners
a product and had to throw it
• the suspension of encapsulated
away after just a couple of uses
fragrances in laundry liquid
because the pump has broken,
• the suspension of visual cues in various
or the nozzle blocked? How often does your surface cleaner run straight off the surface before getting a chance to wipe it? These common inconveniences have to do with texture, specifically concepts like pseudo-plastic rheology behaviour and vertical cling.
product applications. With Acusol 880/882
Commercial benchmark
AECI Specialty Chemicals offers rheology modifiers for any home care application, including dishwashing liquid, liquid laundry detergents, fabric softeners and more
products perform exceptionally well in thickening multi-purpose cleaners and suspending the abrasive particles, which
Rheology modifiers like Acusol 882 and
More than 30% of home care products
Acusol 880 from Dow solve this problem
launched in the last 12 months carry a claim
by lending vertical cling properties to a
related to convenience such as ‘ease of use’
formulation, helping the product to stick to
or ‘cleaning on the go’ (Mintel, Sept 2019).
the surface for a longer contact time. The
Consumers are no longer satisfied with
pseudo-plastic or shear thinning behaviour
products that simply do the job; they want
of these polymers allow the formulation to
products to be convenient and easy to use.
be viscous within the container and to thin when force from a pump, actuator or nozzle is applied. This helps to dispense the product with ease and prevents blockage. After dispensing, the product re-thickens, allowing it to cling to surfaces. Similarly, AECI Specialty Chemicals can offer rheology modifiers for any home care application, including dishwashing liquid,
Vertical cling
Dow’s Acusol 820 and Acusol 823
liquid laundry detergents, fabric softeners and more.
When using bathroom and kitchen cleaners, consumers often let the product rest after
Particle suspension
applying and before wiping, to maximise the
In home care applications, particle
cleaning efficiency. Yet, when the surface is
suspension is relevant for various
vertical, gravity will work against the product,
reasons, including:
causing it to run and resulting in frustration.
• the suspension of abrasives in multi-
Laundry liquid formulated with and without an encapsulated fragrance. Test method: washing machine Miele W377 (1h12) @ 40˚C, 1 400rpm. The olfactive test was performed on wet towels and after line drying and storing them in a box
would otherwise sink to the bottom of the bottle. Similarly, products such as Acusol Millenium ER will suspend visual cues or encapsulated fragrances in laundry liquids, offering the benefit of long-lasting freshness while lending the required viscous flowing properties. •
AECI Specialty Chemicals – jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com Dow – www.dow.com
2020/2021 Have you booked your advertising in the 2020/2021 directory? Sales close on 21 June 2020. Contact our sales executives today to book your spot: anita.raath@newmedia.co.za carla.melless@newmedia.co.za candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za Have you updated your online listing? Visit www.thebuyersguide.co.za to check and update your company’s information. 32
| APRIL 2020 | P C Review
HOME CARE
No mess, no fuss bio-based cleaning technology Are you interested in developing a product with exceptional household and industrial cleaning applications that meets the demands for effective yet eco-friendly cleaning? Steposol Citri-Met surpasses the cleaning power of products containing up to 40% petroleum-based solvents. It is supplied fully blended and ready for dilution.
S
teposol Citri-Met from Stepan
concentrated solutions produce stronger
ink without damaging the coating
Company is a revolutionary fully
products for the industrial market.
on the surface.
Effective in various applications
Stepan Company recommends starting
chemistry, ecologically responsible citrus
This extraordinary, eco-friendly technological
with a more dilute system and increasing
terpenes and emulsifiers. Diluted to a solution
breakthrough is suitable for use in a variety
the concentration as needed to achieve
of 96% water, Steposol Citri-Met promises
of applications. For example, a carpet or
the minimum dilution required for cleaning.
exceptional cleaning benefits and removes
upholstery cleaner requires a 1:14 dilution
Some surfaces are more sensitive to high
the need for complicated mixing and
to create a product ideal for removing dirt,
concentrations, such as porous materials,
chemical formulations.
coffee, wine, grass, blood, ink and pet stains.
rubber, latex and coated surfaces. Dilutions
formulated solution consisting of Nobel Prize-winning metathesis
This patent-pending technology has a
When using Steposol Citri-Met,
A 1:32 dilution is suitable to create a
low VOC of just 0.5% at a 1:14 dilution level.
kitchen degreaser that is effective on
The active ingredients are derived from bio-
moderately soiled or oil-soiled surfaces such
based sources to give it a greener profile.
as a stove top.
Various dilutions can produce products for
of 1:14 and greater are safe for most surfaces. Steposol Citri-Met is available locally from Millchem. â&#x20AC;˘
Steposol Citri-Met is even effective in
the home market which clean glass, carpet
removing permanent ink or marker stains. A
and multiple surfaces, and remove stains
1:14 dilution is suitable to produce a cleaning
left by tar and permanent markers. More
product that can remove permanent
Millchem â&#x20AC;&#x201C; www.millchem.co.za Stepan Company â&#x20AC;&#x201C; www.stepan.com
P C Review | APRIL 2020 |
33
HOME CARE
New climate friendly detergent polymer
In Clariant’s new soil release polymer for laundry detergents, the ingredient supplier has combined best-in-class fibre protection against dirt with outstanding sustainability benefits. This innovative detergent polymer is known as TexCare SRN 260.
U
nlike all other soil release polymers in the laundry detergent
segment which are synthetically sourced, TexCare SRN 260 Life is bio-based and has an 80% renewable carbon index (RCI). According to Clariant, a leading supplier of
DID YOU KNOW?
says Clariant’s head of strategic marketing and innovation, Ralf Zerrer. “With its carbon and
bio-based credentials, According to a market we developed TexCare report from Research and SRN 260 Life to meet Markets, the global household the growing consumer green cleaning products market demand for more is expected to grow at a CAGR environmentally friendly of 6.50 percent, rising from US$ products. Indeed, 17.90 billion in 2017 to US$ recent forecasts expect 27.83 billion by the the ‘green’ segment of the end of 2024.
sustainable ingredients and solutions for the industrial and
industrial and home care sector to grow by 6.5% until at least 2024.”
home care cleaning segment, this makes TexCare SRN 260 more sustainable than
Non-ionic with broad tolerance
any other soil release polymer used in liquid
In addition to its improved eco-friendly
detergents and cleaners.
properties, in laboratory tests, fabrics
“This latest addition to our TexCare
washed with TexCare SRN 260 Life, a top
THE BENEFITS OF TEXCARE SRN 260 LIFE • protects clothes by preventing soil from penetrating deep into the fabric • produces a soil release effect in the next wash • helps remove stains in the first wash • maintains whiteness of clothes even after multiple washes • soil release performance allows a reduction in washing temperature, detergent concentration and mechanical action, helping to protect fabrics • 80% renewable carbon index.
TexCare SRN 260 Life is a non-ionic and
range gives the producers of liquid laundry
performing soil release polymer, were six
bio-based soil release polymer for liquid
detergents, particularly green oriented
times cleaner than those washed with
detergents and cleaners. Due to its non-
brands, a unique soil release polymer,”
detergent only.
ionic character, the detergent polymer
Clariant’s new soil release polymer also prevented the redeposition of dirt during
1
exhibits a broad tolerance to the most common surfactant systems. •
washing, which is the main culprit for greying. This prevention measure was almost two times more effective than a standard detergent alone.
Clariant – www.clariant.com
3
2
1: Clariant’s TexCare SRN 260 Life is bio based with superior fibre protection 2: The detergent polymer washes clothes up to six times cleaner than detergent only 3: It delivers brighter whites
34
| APRIL 2020 | P C Review
SAFETY & HYGIENE
Plant hygiene – a vital part of the production process AECI Specialty Chemicals can assist customers with expert recommendations when it comes to maintaining hygiene standards in a production facility. Microbiologist Davina Pillay highlights why hygiene audits are necessary in cosmetics manufacturing.
H
ygiene within a production
Sources of contamination
facility is a critical factor
Raw materials can be tested before use to determine the initial level of
in controlling and
microbial contamination.
limiting microbial
A decision can then
contamination
be made to use the
of the finished product. Microbial
raw materials as is,
contamination can
or whether further
cause a finished
treatment is needed
product to be
to remove microbial
swabs of the surfaces of various
compromised in
contamination. This
equipment, of raw materials and
terms of texture,
is also dependent on
intermediaries used in production,
appearance
the production
and smell.
process as some
Certain microbes
processes may inadvertently
are hazardous
kill off any microbes present.
to human health.
The equipment used in
For example, E. coli can cause nausea
manufacturing is also considered
and vomiting, Staphylococcus aureus and some yeasts can cause skin infections and certain moulds and the
a source of microbial
DID YOU KNOW?
contamination. Cleaning protocols
before and after cleaning protocols and of the production personnel. The swabs are usually tested for the total bacterial count, which gives an indication of the levels of microbial contamination. The swabs can also be tested for specific microbes. Contact agar plates and dip slides with selective agar media can also be
for manufacturing Consistent cleaning and disinfection with spores they produce can equipment and the biocides are among the cause skin allergies. fundamental preconditions actual equipment for modern and GMPIdeally, products used to clean should compliant hygiene should be manufactured be monitored to standards in cosmetics manufacturing. in a production facility that ensure that microbial
used to take samples. The selective
adheres to and complies
of the hygiene conditions within a
with strict hygiene practices. While this may not always be
contamination does not spread to different sections of the production process.
possible, there are methods that can be used to monitor hygiene levels within a production facility. These include: • monitoring of the
agar media will grow specific types of micro-organisms.
Value-added service A hygiene audit provides a snapshot plant at the time of the audit. It also assists with monitoring and controlling microbial contamination across the
Reduce risk through audits Hygiene audits are a way of monitoring
production plant and with ensuring good product quality. Hygiene auditing is a value-added service offered by AECI Specialty
hygiene practices
Chemicals to customers when they
raw materials used
on site. The aim of
purchase biocides. As part of the
to formulate and
a hygiene audit
service, advice is given by an expert
produce products
is to identify any
microbiologist in terms of sanitisation
potential problem
measures and how to control
• monitoring the manufacturing and cleaning equipment • monitoring packaging equipment and the actual packaging containing the finished products.
areas as well as the processes that
contamination in the customer’s manufacturing plant. •
are effective. A hygiene audit is performed by taking swabs of various points throughout a production facility. These include
AECI Specialty Chemicals – jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com
P C Review | APRIL 2020 |
35
STUDENT FOCUS
The butterfly effect The winner of this year’s Coschem training in cosmetic science/ P C Review essay prize is Rone Rudman. To acknowledge Rudman’s achievement, an adapted version of her essay is published in this student focus and she has received a prize sponsored by industry magazine.
T
ake a minute to comprehend
A study by Stanford scientist, Caroline
Considering the importance
this. If the DNA of a living
Haskins, has proven that only 30% of our
of epigenetics and that it can be
organism is constant and, if you
DNA determines how our natural immune
implemented to change gene
had a pet caterpillar named
system changes and ages over time.
expressions, it’s a very appropriate topic
Gene, what would cause Gene to
The rest depends on our environment,
for skin care research and development
shapeshift into a butterfly? The answer is
directly linked to the decision-making
and it has a lot of potential to grow.
epigenetics – a biological field of study
process of our epigenetics. This includes
honoured with a Nobel prize in 2006 for
the environment of the cell, which is
showed that 45% of adult consumers
its discovery.
controlled from within the body, nutrition
would entrust in a scientific test to
wise, and externally by the products we
determine what products are best suited
apply on our skin.
to their needs, rather than carrying
Epigenetics is taking the skin care market towards more personalised
A study conducted by EpigenCare
the consequences of choosing the
offerings. It’s more of a total advancement than just an industry
A relevant R&D topic
wrong skin care products. Therefore,
trend. As explained by Smitha Rao,
We are all exposed to different
a personalised skin care solution is
vice president, product development
environmental aggressors such as
definitely worth exploring.
and regulatory affairs at StriVectin,
UV rays, air pollution, high stress
epigenetics is the science that connects
levels, bad sleep quality, varied water
and EpigenCare are working towards
lifestyle and its impact on ageing – it
consumption, diet, lifestyle choices and
– a direct-to-customer approach.
studies the ability to reverse or modify
blue light.
EpigenCare’s goal is to make epigenetic
the body’s ageing.
Our cells experience these various
This is what companies like Skintelli
science available to everyone and
environments differently, resulting in
practical to use – not only for the
explained in the epidermis, where the
our unique skin functionality. This is not
consumer, but also the entire cosmetics
basal cell layer proliferates cells that form
just because of the genetic differences
industry. These kinds of companies gather
the different epidermal stratum layers.
in our DNA, but also because of the
loads and loads of data on epigenetic
This cycle of skin cell proliferation and
environmentally influenced epigenetics
targeted sequencing that help identify
cornification shows how the keratinocyte
of our DNA, leading to the need for
epigenetic markers including ageing,
phenotype and gene expression change.
different skin care solutions.
pigmentation, firmness and elasticity,
Basic epigenetics in the skin can be
36
| APRIL 2020 | P C Review
STUDENT FOCUS moisture retention, DNA damage and
protection against the negative impacts of
their ingredients have been tested on
repair, cell regeneration, oxidation
air pollution on the skin.
laboratory scale, using, for example
and anti-oxidation, and sensitivity
This strategy of formulation is very
rates where change did manifest in its
response. The more epigenetic marker
successful in keeping with the epigenetic
epigenetics like a change in hair colour
data collected, the more informed the
trend, while targeting antipollution and
, these effects will take a number of
cosmetics industry becomes on market
natural ingredients promotion.
years to show the actual affect in human
needs. A more informed industry will result
Other ingredients suppliers seem
application. These kinds of claims can also
in the development of more advanced
to be reverting to nature and natural
tread on the fine line between permanent
and targeted cosmetic products, making
phenomena more and more, such as
and temporary change by cosmetic
for very satisfied consumers and a win-
Mibelle Biochemistry, which has studied
products. If the change is permanent,
win marketing strategy for all.
the epigenetic reprograming of a normal
the product would be considered
bee into a queen bee, giving her longevity.
pharmaceutical with many more
Knowledge is power
The company found a protein called
formulation rules and regulations.
It seems like the beauty industry will need
royalactin delayed the ageing process
to brush up on biology and DNA as most
and increased longevity in insects. In
influence the environment of the skin, it
of the existing skin care products were not
mammalian cells, cells proliferate faster,
always has and always will have an effect
designed with epigenetic mechanisms in
increasing skin turnover instead of the
on epigenetics. For now, it is just the actual
mind. Yet these products still contribute
decreased proliferation associated with
mechanism that is not clear.
to the environment of a skin cell. This will
increased ageing effects. This natural
have an obvious effect on the skin cell’s
gem can be used to promote epigenetic
A young science
epigenetic mechanisms with varying
mechanisms in the skin to fight ageing.
The science of epigenetic mechanism
phenotype manifestations. Even though product formulations and choice of raw materials were rather based on chemical properties, like soothing properties of colloidal oatmeal and moisturising properties of hyaluronic acid, they still have a place in the epigenetic market. The trick is to figure out which ingredients perform on an epigenetic level. Active ingredients and their
Epigenetics is taking the skin care market towards more personalised offerings The epigenetic scientific study of
But as cosmetic products definitely do
will give rise to many more active ingredients. The testing thereof will hopefully produce reliable results based on human trials over extended periods of time. With the combined use of AI and cosmeceuticals, the epigenetic activities of ingredients and epigenetic targeted sequencing data from DNA, will expand and refine diagnostic and solution processes for both the consumer and the cosmetics industry.
inclusion levels in products are used
royalactin saw Mibelle Biochemistry
to create indexed logs by companies
develop RoyalEpigen P5, which promotes
to environmental factors, etc. will
like EpigenCare. This, along with the
epigenetic mechanisms in the skin
always influence the cellular function
mountain of epigenetic targeted
specially designed to delay the skin
epigenome of the skin. Just taking
sequencing data recovered from all
ageing process. This natural protein had
air pollution into account in our ever-
the DNA samples, opens the cosmetics
to be stabilised in the form of a biologically
changing world, the environment of the
market to the incorporation of AI. An
active peptide mimicking royalactin,
future may be totally different. Yet with
AI system has the capacity to interpret
in order for it to be used in skin care
the expanding science of epigenetics, a
mass data in less time and with more
formulations. For such a raw material to
solution will always be in sight.
accuracy, making it more profitable
be effective on an epigenetic scale, it has
when compared to human processing.
to be carried into the cell. To increase the
much, the science is still young. This
This will significantly improve diagnostic
absorption of such raw materials, it can be
is just the start – let’s watch this space
processes of consumer skin concerns,
encapsulated in a transporting system, like
transform from a caterpillar into a
pointing them in the right direction of a
a soft sphere carrier system based on shea
beautiful butterfly. •
personalised skin care regime, and it will
butter as is the case with RoyalEpigen P5.
assist in formulation considerations. The more informed the industry
Ageing, lifestyle, diet and exposure
Even though we already know so
Skin care products based on epigenetics have been on the market since 2007, when
becomes, the more targeted the
L’Oréal established the trademark Lancôme
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
design of products can become. This,
Epigenetic Cosmetic. Another popular
Roné Rudman is a
coupled with other trending formulation
name is Estée Lauder with its Re-Nutriv
junior lab chemist at
considerations, are advantageous.
Ultimate Lift Age Correcting Collection
SkinChem where she
range. It’s interesting to note that the
is mainly responsible
Inspired by epigenetics
product’s claim of epigenetic influence on
for batch clearances and stability
Ashland offers epigenetic focused active
the skin is still quite vague – as it claims to
testing. Rudman has a degree in
ingredient named Elixiance, derived from
be inspired by epigenetics, or the science
chemical engineering, which she
the Peruvian pink pepper tree from Peru.
thereof, without too many details.
acquired in 2016 from the University
The technology is based on the microRNA epigenetics associated with barrier
This is due to the fact that even
of Potchefstroom.
though some of these products and
P C Review | APRIL 2020 |
37
Tea time TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive
+27 (0)82 976 6541
Carla Melless
Soduko
Sales executive
+27 (0)83 260 6060
Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive
ADVERTISERS INDEX
+27 (0)71 438 1918
Acorn Pharmaceuticals............................29.........www.acornlab.co.za Brenntag South Africa............................. IFC.........www.brenntag.com/en-za Canbigold..................................................5.........www.canbigold.com CJP Chemicals/Seppic.......................20, 21.........www.cjpchemicals.co.za/www.seppic.com IMCD SA ................................................. 19.........www.surfacechemistry.nouryon.com LipoTrue...................................................23.........www.lipotrue.com Millchem .................................................33.........www.millchem.co.za Nautica Organic Trading .........................25.........www.nauticaorganics.com Saxony Chemicals...................................31.........www.saxonychemicals.com Symrise SA ........................................... OFC.........www.symrise.com Vantage Specialty Chemicals .................. 17.........www.vantagegrp.com Zetes.......................................................28.........www.zetes.com
38
| APRIL 2020 | P C Review
Solution
Online
INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS
COSCHEM
Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
Visitors to the Society of
Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery
Cosmetic Chemists’ website will
Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,
find information on membership,
Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and
educational programmes
other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin
(specific details pertaining to the
& Derivatives
Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the
Tel: 010 595 9690
cosmetics and toiletries industries.
Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za
www.coschem.co.za
M&L LABORATORY
DALGEN
M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an
Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers,
extensive array of analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing
plastic containers, closures and packaging accessories.
services to the Food & Beverage, Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025 accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za
Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za
Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com
FORMPAK For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,
BOTANICHEM
packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical,
BOTANICHEM is a supplier of specialist ingredients
cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.
to the cosmetic and personal care industry, with a
Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com
H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations. If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.
113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com
particular focus on plant-derived ingredients which support sustainable supply and fair-trade practice. We also aim to understand the needs of clients and to source the appropriate ingredient, at the right price.
www.botanichem.co.za
QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications. Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC
www.quantumcolours.com Manufactured, marketed and distributed under licence of SPECTRATEC INC. CANADA Canada . South Africa . Ireland . Germany . Australia . UK
From one
brave team to anotherâ&#x20AC;Ś Thank Thankyo you u to everyone in everyone in manufacturing and manufacturing and essential ices essential serv services for keeping keeping tthe for he machines machines run running ning and shelves shelves sto stocked, and cked, during the COVID-19 COV ID-19 the shutdown.
You are the unsung heroes!
Our #PurplePeople salute you!
New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd.