Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review April 2020

INSIDE: Suppliers, manufacturers & beauty brands do their part to fight COVID-19

APRIL 2020 | Volume 47 | Number 4

www.pharmacos.co.za

“Symrise achieved all its 2019 targets with the Fragrances Division witnessing particularly dynamic growth and strong demand for fine fragrance products�

ETHNIC CARE Beauty with brains & scintillating science

PHARMA FOCUS The vital role of the digital revolution

HOME CARE Technologies to ensure hygiene in the home

Brenntag Cosmetics Division is composed of a dedicated team committed to discovering innovative solutions We have built an outstanding reputation for providing superior, solution-oriented support to exceed the needs and expectations of our partners, and our sales representatives and technicians are renowned for their professional demeanor and expertise.

Brenntag will help you fulfill the industry’s most stringent requirements and regulations. Our in-house market experts will keep you ahead of the curve on new products and emerging industry trends. Enjoy access to our renowned technical and industry expertise as well as our extensive line-up of products.

CONTACT: Courtney Holley Business Development Manager Direct: +27(0) 10 020 9122 Mobile: +27(0) 82 606 8105 Email: courtney.holley@brenntag.co.za www.brenntag.com/en-za

Acidulants | Actives | Alcohols | Alkalies | Anti-Caking Agents | Antimicrobials | Antioxidants | Butters | Chelating Agents | Conditioning Agents | Dyes and Pigments | Emollients | Emulsifiers | Essential oils | Exfolliant | Extracts | Fatty Acids | Flavour | Humectants | Opacifiers | PH Regulators | Preservatives | Phospates | Rheology Modifiers | Salts and Peroxygen Liquids | Seeds and Meals | Surfactants | Sweeteners | Thickeners | UV Filters | Vitamins | Waxes | White Oils

Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

April 2020 | Volume 47 | Number 4

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

6 NEWS

L’Oréal joins the fight against COVID-19

Mondi adapts to produce face mask components

Wacker Biotech introduces Libatec

8 PRODUCT NEWS

What’s new in South Africa

11 EVENTS

26 PHARMA FOCUS: TECHNOLOGY & SOFTWARE SOLUTIONS

Peppina installs SAP Business One

Level up with Zetes serialisation solutions

29 INSTALLATION

Acorn Group announces facility upgrades

Insight into labelling requirements

16 CLOSURES, PUMPS & DISPENSERS

Strong, profitable and confident about the future

HPCI expo and Coschem conference joins forces again

12 INDUSTRY TALK

14

Alpla breaks ground in Lanseria

30 HOME CARE

Bleach systems to deliver hygiene benefits

How to use texture as a differentiator

Stepan’s bio-based cleaning technology

Climate friendly detergent polymer from Clariant

17 ETHNIC CARE

New natural emollient from Vantage

A look at the waterless beauty boom

Seppic addresses hyperpigmentation

Skinarch and the art of building collagen

Natural ingredients from AECI Specialty Chemicals

The butterfly effect

36

35

Plant hygiene – a vital part of the production process 35 SAFETY & HYGIENE

Why hygiene audits are necessary

36 STUDENT FOCUS

P C Review/Coschem essay prize winner: The butterfly effect

P C Review | APRIL 2020 |

3

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

Beauty industry steps up to fight COVID-19

A

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti Sub-editor: Katrien Smit Contributors: Eve De Maesschalck, Davina Pillay, Jacques Strydom, Jane Mathews, Roné Rudman, Yashmay Gordhon ADVERTISING

lthough COVID-19 has been

hospitals and federal institutions in Germany’s

a household name since the

Hannover region. In a press release, Unilever

outbreak was first reported in

stated it’s pledged €100 million to global

November 2019, the coronavirus

health organisations and agencies in the

only recently became a factor in the personal

form of donations of soap, sanitiser, bleach

and home care industries.

and food.

It’s changed our day to day existence and

While South Africa is currently in lockdown,

Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za

magnified consumers’ perception of hand

at New Media we are fortunate to remain

INTERNATIONAL SALES

hygiene. Soap, as a result of the increased

operational with our teams working remotely.

handwashing, and hand sanitisers have been

This makes it possible for us to bring you the

front and centre of the global pandemic. Yet,

April edition of P C Review, first in digital format

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de

the demand for hand sanitisers in South Africa

with the printed edition to follow as soon as

and around the world continues to outstrip

lockdown ends.

supply. It’s been amazing to see the personal

This month, on page 12 the CTFA shares

Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk

care industry’s response to help in the fight

insight into the latest labelling requirements

against COVID-19, by stepping up to produce

for personal care products and cosmetics.

hand sanitiser products which are supplied

In our pharma focus on page 26, we look

CIRCULATION

free of charge to those in need.

at how Peppina is driving profitable growth

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

At various manufacturing plants around

by installing SAP Business One and Zetes

the globe, including Kenya, L’Oréal’s teams

explains the ins and outs of serialisation and

have put in place new processes to produce

aggregation in the South African context.

hundreds of tonnes of hand sanitiser. Louis

In the home care feature on page 30, you

Vuitton owner LVMH, which produces

can read about bleach systems to deliver

perfumes by Dior and Givenchy as well as

hygiene benefits, how to use texture as a

Moët & Chandon champagne, has been

differentiator and two new bio-based cleaning

using its perfume production lines to produce

technologies from international suppliers. The

12t of free hydroalcoholic gel (hand sanitiser)

P C Review team wishes our valued readers

for French hospitals.

and clients good health, safety, resilience and

On LinkedIn, Beiersdorf posted about its efforts in Thailand, where the personal care

positivity during the uncertain times brought about by the spread of the coronavirus.

brand is producing medical-grade Nivea hand sanitisers, which will be delivered free of

Take care and enjoy the read.

PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd MANAGEMENT TEAM MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb

charge to more than 1 000 hospitals, various

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis

foundations, orphanages and underprivileged

BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley

children in the region. Symrise also posted

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone

about its efforts on LinkedIn, saying the global

CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson

producer of fragrances and flavours had

HEAD OFFICE

received special permission from authorities

New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

to produce and distribute sanitiser for use in

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

4 | APRIL

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

2020 | P C Review

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by Novus Print - Cape Town.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

Mondi has adapted a production line in Germany to make a much-needed component for face masks

NEWS

CTFA postpones cosmetics industry summit THE COSMETIC, TOILETRIES & Fragrance Association (CTFA) announced in March it would be postponing The Cosmetics Industry Summit ‘Breaking Barriers in Africa’, scheduled to take place on 13 and 14 May 2020 at The IDC Conference Centre, in Sandton, Johannesburg, South Africa.

Given the rise of public health concerns over the coronavirus (COVID-19), the continuous spread of the disease and the many implications on business activities including travel restrictions and bans, the organisers had to take the difficult decision to postpone

the event to a date when such concerns no longer prevail. Under the current circumstances, the organisers are not able to provide the experience they had wished for and believe its most important to guarantee the safety of all.

Logistics will be communicated to presenters and all who have registered.

The organisers apologise for the inconvenience. However, the safety of both speakers and delegates is of paramount importance and must be taken with the utmost seriousness, given the global circumstances that we currently face.

L’Oréal joins the fight against COVID-19 FOR SEVERAL WEEKS, L’Oréal’s teams have been implementing plans to support the fight against coronavirus. According to a LinkedIn post shared by the global beauty brand, new processes are in place at its plants across the world and its teams are working to produce hundreds of tonnes of hand sanitiser, which will be delivered free of charge to hospitals, pharmacies, care homes and food stores. The post also mentioned L’Oréal’s teams will keep providing the complimentary hand sanitiser as long as it’s needed.

L’Oréal thank all its teams in Europe, North America, Asia, Latin America and Africa for producing the hand sanitisers daily.

L’Oréal Kenya has also joined the group’s worldwide efforts, working around the clock to produce Nice & Lovely Hand Sanitisers, which will be delivered free of charge to first line medical teams and supermarket staff across the country.

L’Oréal teams in its plant in Karlsruhe, Germany have produced 100 tonnes of hand sanitiser to donate to hospitals and other healthcare institutions.

“I’m very proud of the teams in Karlsruhe; they are fully committed and coming every day to the plant to help protect the ones fighting on the front lines. A big thank you to our supply chain community and all our packaging and supply partners who have demonstrated their incredible agility by developing, producing and supplying us in this difficult context,” Paulina Jurkiewicz, director of L’Oréal’s Karlsruhe plant, commented on LinkedIn. L’Oréal Mexico has also been producing hand sanitiser, with a clear goal of donating an initial 300 000 units to hospitals and public transportation. Additional units will be delivered to collaborators, providers, clients and NGOs throughout Mexico.

Nice & Lovely Hand Sanitisers produced at L’Oréal Kenya (source: LinkedIn)

6 | APRIL

2020 | P C Review

Mondi adapts production line to produce face mask components DURING THE COVID-19 outbreak, Mondi is committed to playing its part to produce important supplies and components. As a global leader in packaging and paper, Mondi’s personal care components team has found a way to convert a production line at its Gronau plant in Germany to manufacture soft, elastic straps which are now being used for face masks, by medical professionals and consumers globally.

Mondi’s plant in Gronau typically focuses on making materials used in hygiene products such as nappies, adult incontinence pads and feminine care items. However, the team quickly adapted one of its manufacturing lines to produce a three-layer, laminated strap that binds a stretchable plastic film between layers of soft, nonwoven material.

The straps, which Mondi supplies to its maskmaking customers on a reel, are then cut and attached to each side of a mask, which can loop comfortably over the user’s ears to hold the mask in place.

This elastic material replaces a rubberised band that holds the mask to the face, increasing the operational speed of the machines in comparison to rubber, which is slower to produce.

“Mondi Gronau is working to provide straps that will fit more than one billion nonwoven face masks. As there is increasing need for these types of face masks, we are building up our capability to meet the demand. By producing this soft elastic strap, we are able to produce more volume to meet growing demand,” says Dr Michael Trinkaus, director of R&D and application engineering for Mondi’s personal care components division.

Mondi also operates a plant in Taicang, China, that laminates film made in Gronau to make nonwoven hygiene products similar to those manufactured in Germany. While closely monitoring developments, assessing risks and implementing preventative policies in line with the government regulations and recommendations in the region, the company was able to meet orders for mask straps from customers in China when the COVID-19 virus epidemic first broke out. Demand is now growing for more of such supplies from customers across Europe, prompting the Gronau plant to increase the production of this material.

Plant-based tech used in viable COVID-19 vaccine development MEDICAGO, A BIOPHARMACEUTICAL company headquartered in Quebec City, has successfully produced viruslike particles (VLP) of the coronavirus in just 20 days using proprietary plantbased technology. The company did so successfully after obtaining the SARSCoV-2 gene, which is the virus causing the COVID-19 disease.

Production of the VLP is the first step in developing a vaccine for COVID-19, which will now undergo preclinical testing for safety and efficacy. Once this is completed, Medicago expects to discuss with the appropriate Health Agencies to initiate human trials of the vaccine by July/August 2020.

Medicago has previously demonstrated its capability to be a first responder during a flu pandemic. In 2009, the company produced a research-grade vaccine candidate against H1N1 in just 19 days. In 2012, Medicago manufactured 10 million

doses of a monovalent influenza vaccine within one month for the US Department of Defence. In 2015, the company also demonstrated it could rapidly produce an anti-Ebola monoclonal antibody cocktail for the US Biomedical Advanced Research and Development Authority.

“The pace of our initial progress in COVID-19 is attributable to the capability of our plant-based platform, which is able to produce vaccine and antibody solutions to counteract this global public health threat.

The ability to produce a candidate vaccine within 20 days after obtaining the gene is a critical differentiator for our proven technology. This technology enables scaleup at unprecedented speed to potentially combat COVID-19,” says Dr Bruce Clark, CEO of Medicago.

Dr Gary Kobinger, professor in the Department of Microbiology and Infectious Diseases and the director of the Infectious Disease Research Centre at Laval University, adds: “The collaborative efforts established between the research team at Laval University and Medicago have been very successful in developing unique antibodies against infectious diseases such as RSV and HMPV, and that experience gives us confidence for successful identification of therapeutic antibodies against SARS-CoV-2.”

SAMI-SABINSA GROUP SCOOPS THREE IMPRESSIVE AWARDS ON 28 FEBRUARY, the SamiSabinsa Group was honoured with three awards by the Associated Chambers of Commerce and Industry of India (ASSOCHAM) at the third edition of its Beauty, Wellness and Personal Care Awards, in New Delhi.

ASSOCHAM acknowledged the group’s founder and chairman, Dr Muhammed Majeed, for his immense contribution to shaping the Indian cosmeceutical industry, by presenting him with the Legend of Natural Cosmeceuticals award.

The group also received accolades for Best Personal Care Product of the Year 2020 for its premium beauty product, Johara Turmeric Bath Soap, and Best Cosmetic Ingredient Manufacturer of the Year for Sami Labs.

“It’s a tremendous honour to receive this award from ASSOCHAM.

The Ayurveda-based approach to cosmetics has inspired formulations containing herbs and other natural ingredients that form an integral part of daily skin care regimens. Highly regarded and valued, these products reaffirm the vast knowledge of the ancient Indian traditional system of medicine by providing excellent results. Johara is a scientifically driven brand crafted from years of meticulous research and utilising time-tested botanical ingredients,” says Dr Majeed.

The Sami-Sabinsa Group was previously honoured by ASSOCHAM and the Johara Cosmetics division in 2018.

ASSOCHAM’s Beauty, Wellness and Personal Care Awards celebrate those who have consistently met the unique beauty and wellness needs of multicultural Indians. The star-studded event recognises individuals, organisations and brands that have achieved excellence in the fields of cosmetics, wellness and personal care.

Dr Majeed received the award from Sandeep Marwah, chancellor at AAFT University of Media & Art and Jennifer Graham, spouse of Nadir Patel of the Canadian High Commission of India

NEWS

Africa’s first natural products expo postponed AS THE SPREAD of coronavirus intensifies, so do the cancellation and postponement of business, social and sporting events. The Organic and Natural Products Expo (ONPE) Africa is the latest local industry event to be postponed due to COVID-19.

Due to the unfortunate and unforeseen events unfolding globally due to the spread of coronavirus, the organisers of the inaugural Organic and Natural Products Expo Africa have decided to postpone the event with immediate effect.

“This is a sad state of affairs, as we have had such a positive response and outstanding support from so many quarters. We have made this decision bearing in mind the safety of our exhibitors, visitors, partners and their friends and families, and also to do our part in stopping the spread of the coronavirus,” says event director, John Thomson.

“We will be confirming our new dates in due course from our website and social media pages,” he adds. “The new dates will be based on the trajectory of the coronavirus and how it affects the world and South Africa.”

The Organic and Natural Products Expo Africa would like to take this opportunity to thank all of its exhibitors and partners. The organising team kindly requests that you continue to follow its social media pages and website, www.organicandnaturalexpo.com, where it will keep you updated on new developments and the revised dates for the show.

Wacker Biotech introduces Libatec UNDER THE BRAND name Libatec, Wacker Biotech is now marketing its technology platform for developing and manufacturing live microbial products (LMPs). These are a promising class of therapeutic products, which open the door to new medical treatments.

The Wacker group is bundling its biopharmaceutical activities within Wacker Biotech, a contract development and manufacturing organisation, notable for its innovative technologies.

LMPs, or pharmaceuticals that contain living micro-organisms, are an area of growing interest for many manufacturers.

The purpose of these live actives is to cure or prevent a wide variety of diseases, including infectious diseases, cancer, inflammatory and metabolic diseases, dermatological diseases and more.

“What we have here is a new generation of medications from laboratory direct to a clinical setting. This will generate major growth opportunities for us as a microbial contract manufacturer and for our customers,” says Dr Susanne Leonhartsberger, MD of Wacker Biotech.

The development and production of LMPs at Wacker Biotech are based on an efficient, comprehensive production platform known as Libatec.

The first step in manufacturing LMPs is to grow bacteria in a culture medium

Wacker Biotech’s facility in Amsterdam where LMPs are produced in large stainless steel fermenters

in small bioreactors. This is followed by fermentation in larger reactors, during which the actual production of microorganisms takes place. In a multi-stage process, the organisms obtained are subsequently separated from undesirable constituents, and then purified and concentrated. One of the many challenges in the LMP production process is that sterile filtration is not an option, since LMPs consist of living micro-organisms, which would not survive the process.

The final step involves converting the finished LMP to a stable form, followed by dispensing, packaging and preparing it for transport. A fill and finish plant, including freeze-drying equipment (lyophilisation), is available for this purpose at the Amsterdam site. “This allows us to offer a completely closed production system, which is a deciding factor in meeting the quality requirements of regulatory agencies and our customers,” concludes Dr Leonhartsberger.

| APRIL | 7 Review | APRIL 2020 2020 | P PCCReview 7

STREET 1

Plump up your lips

Cutting edge cosmetics house, DW & Co Cosmetics launched its new generation lip voltage plumping gloss with an improved dispensing system. Lip Voltage is said to be the most advanced peptide and collagen formulation concept in lip plumping. With six formulations to choose from, you can customise to your own tingle sensation with the brand-new pre-priming pump. Lip Voltage contains a clinically proven formulation of peptides that builds collagen and expands the lip tissue over 25 to 30 days of continuous use, when using the product once to twice daily.

1

2 Serums to hydrate and brighten skin

Beauty Worx facial serums work collectively to control, maintain and protect the skin. Each serum caters to specific skin care needs. These serums are suitable for those with sensitive skin and help hydrate, brighten, reduce fine line

4

lines and wrinkles while soothing redness, addressing acne, preventing sun damage and reducing the signs of ageing. The serums on offer include rosehip and castor oil, tea tree and collagen, retinol complex, hemp and collagen, hyaluronic acid face serum and a soften + glow one.

3 CBD skin care from DermaFix DermaFix has introced three new products, DermaPrep Pre Cleanse, ActiveCellCeuticals Retinol +, and a CBD Lotion, formulated with organic Swiss CBD. Said to be making waves in the skin care industry, Swiss CBD is a highly sought-after ingredient for innovative formulations. DermaFix CBD Lotion

2

offers antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and skin calming properties. It also hydrates and soothes irritated skin, making it perfect for use on problematic skin.

4 2 in 1 skin cleanser Optiphi’s Pure Exfoliating Wash is a multi-targeted cleansing product ideal for sensitive, reactive skin and bearded skins.

Formulated with gentle, calming, bio-degradable beads and vitamin B5, the wash offers physical and chemical exfoliating benefits. The micro-plastic free beads release D-panthenol (vitamin B5), which improves corneum hydration, reduces

3

transepidermal water loss and maintains skin softness and elasticity. Malic acid in the cleanser offers a humectant benefit, resulting in a more hydrated and supple skin.

5 Childs Farm now available in SA The popular and multi-award winning UK-based baby care brand, Childs Farm has been introduced locally in Baby City stores nationwide; select Clicks, Pick ‘n Pay and Babies R Us stores; select Checkers stores in Gauteng, and on www.takealot.com and www.babiesafrica.com. The products are designed for all skin types, including sensitive and even eczema-prone skin. They are also clinically proven to be suitable for new-borns and upwards, and all products have been paediatrician and dermatologist approved. The range includes a

8 | APRIL 8

2020 | P C Review

baby wash, nappy cream, shampoo, bubble bath and moisturiser.

5

Launched a new product in 2019/20

Make a

Statement about it 2020

New Product Competition

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EVENTS

HPCI South Africa offers access to an important growth market The second edition of HPCI South Africa will again be held in conjunction with the annual scientific conference of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem). Both events are scheduled to take place in South Africa on 9 and 10 September at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand.

H

PCI is exclusively devoted to ingredients for home and personal care products,

Six reasons to attend HPCI South Africa:

particularly those unique to

the African continent. The expo made its debut in South Africa in 2019, where it opened with 87 exhibitors, including representation from international companies, and was attended by more than 500 experts and buyers from the household products and personal care

encouraged to submit abstracts for the home care seminar.

The organisers have announced the

• keep on top of ingredients trends • compare and source new products and services • save time and minimise formulation costs • gain access to industry thought leaders • network and connect with peers • fuel your creativity.

markets. Visitors and exhibitors were

call high-level technical presentations, showcasing latest research and results that highlight advancements in ingredients, formulations, legislation and safety pertinent to the home care market.

The deadline for title and abstract submissions is 31 May; notifications of acceptance will be distributed by 15 June.

equally satisfied with this premiere.

The 2020 instalment of the exhibition

institutes are invited and strongly

Interested parties should send an email to scientific conference. If you are

sonja.schulte@vincentz.net to submit their

provides an ideal opportunity for South

interested in presenting a paper or poster

title and abstract of 250 words.

African and international suppliers,

at the conference, kindly send an email

manufacturers and agents to network

to bridget@coschem.co.za for more

together with the HPCI South Africa

whilst stimulating growth and trade. As

information on submitting your abstract.

exhibition offer a truly exclusive and

South Africa is the gateway to Africa,

The deadline for submissions is 22 June.

unique opportunity to meet peers from

participants from all over the continent

Conference registrations are also open

The Coschem scientific conference

many African countries and gain new

as well as a global contingency are

with the early bird registration rate on

insights in the innovations of the industry.

expected to visit this year’s expo. Major

offer until 17 July. Another highlight of the

Exhibitors can also book space. Please

local and international suppliers have

conference is the annual gala dinner,

visit www.hpci-events.com/south-africa

already announced their participation.

which takes place on 10 September at

for more information. •

Scientific conference The Coschem scientific conference

Montecasino in Johannesburg, South Africa. The theme for this year’s gala dinner is the Greatest Showman.

will offer an extensive programme of lectures focusing on the dissemination

Safety assessor seminar

of scientific information, in line with the

Additional educational content will be

theme ‘2020 The Beauty Odyssey’.

provided by the DGK/IKW safety assessor

Speakers from South Africa and other

seminar. This seminar is organised with

global markets will share presentations

the support of the Cosmetic, Toiletries &

New in 2020 at HPCI South Africa is a seminar on the show floor, devoted exclusively to detergents and home care products

Fragrance Association South Africa.

Home care in focus New in 2020 at HPCI South Africa is a seminar on the show floor, devoted exclusively to detergents and home care products. At this exclusive event,

outlining new research, developments

the latest developments in surfactants

and new materials that can be brought

and sustainable formulations for

to market.

household products will be introduced.

Coschem has announced the call for papers and posters for the annual

Innovative exhibiting companies as well as academic or governmental research

P C Review | APRIL 2020 | 11

INDUSTRY TALK

Clear, concise and compliant Across industries, consumers have become increasingly information hungry and technologically savvy.

This has contributed to the need to ensure that accurate information is present at the point of purchase.

By Yashmay Gordhon

P

art of this consumer evolution

QUICK LINKS

means that consumers are more aware of ingredients that may

ARB – www.arb.org.za

be undesirable, either due to

CTFA – www.ctfa.co.za

personal choice or potential undesirable

DOH – www.health.gov.za

effects caused by specific medical

NRCS – www.nrcs.org.za

predispositions. The industry has also

SABS – www.sabs.co.za

experienced a trend towards products containing ingredients considered more desirable, such as those that are

products; Advertising Code of Practice;

Ingredient listing

‘natural’ and ‘organic’.

SANS 289: Labelling Requirements for

The ingredient listing is vital, as

Consumers have also become more

Pre-packaged Products (pre-packages)

it provides the consumer with

aware of the advertising of products

and General Requirements for the Sale

information on the content of the

and label claims on packaging. With

of Good subject to Legal Metrology

product. Although the DOH Draft

the explosion of the digital space, the

Control; Legal metrology Act; etc.

Regulations take precedence over

modern consumer has access to many

The Government Notice R 1469 draft

other guidelines, the South African

more information than ever before

Regulations Relating to Labelling,

Bureau of Standards also outlines

on what is acceptable or not, and an

Advertising and Composition of Cosmetics

labelling requirements in SANS 98. As a

increased appetite to question any

(DOH Draft Regulations) Regulation 8:

minimum requirement, the ingredient

claims made by brands.

Labelling outlines and lists the requirements

listing must be present on the label

for the primary and secondary package of

preceded by the word, ‘ingredients’.

To meet consumers’ expectations while complying with regulatory

a cosmetic product.

Provision is made for smaller packages, allowing the information

requirements, companies placing

The primary container or packaging

cosmetic products on the market

should contain the following information:

to be included on an attached

should have an awareness and

• name of the cosmetic

leaflet, label, inlay, tape, tag or card

understanding of standards, guidelines,

• country of origin for

(as per Regulation 8.3 of DOH Draft

regulations and best practice within the

imported cosmetics

Regulations), either enclosed with

South African context. As an industry

• date of minimum durability

the cosmetic, or on a notice in close

association, the Cosmetic, Toiletry &

• batch number or lot number of

proximity to the container in which the

Fragrance Association (CTFA) advises

the product

cosmetic product is exposed for sale

on such matters. It also promotes the

• function of the cosmetic (unless it is

(as per SANS 98).

responsibility that companies have in providing accurate and compliant label information on packaging.

clear from the presentation)

Regarding the ingredients

• particular precautions and warning

themselves, the international and

statements to be observed in use,

national standard requires that all

where applicable, and at least those

ingredients be listed according

listed in Annexes I, II, III, IV and V.

to International Nomenclature

Minimum labelling requirements

The secondary container or packaging

for Cosmetic Ingredients or INCI

A number of aspects pertaining

should contain the following:

description. This global practice

to labelling should be considered,

• the name and business address of the

ensures a uniform and globally

including the requirements outlined in the Department of Health’s (DOH) draft Regulations Relating to Labelling,

responsible person

recognised system of listing

• the nominal content at the time of

ingredients which aids the ease

packaging declared by weight

of trade between countries. INCI

Advertising and Composition of

or volume

descriptions are also recognised

Cosmetics, Government Notice R 1469;

• the list of ingredients according to

by medical professionals, who are

SANS 98: Ingredient labelling of cosmetic

INCI nomenclature.

equipped to treat adverse reactions

12 || APRIL 12 APRIL

2020 | P C Review 2020 | P C Review

INDUSTRY TALK that may be experienced by a small percentage of consumers.

Trade names and common names of ingredients are not permitted on the ingredient listing as this may result in misinformation about certain ingredients, such as allergens.

An example of a product label, supplied by the CTFA

Ensure safety first Along with the ingredient listing, it is also important to note that certain ingredients have a maximum use limit that is permitted. Certain ingredients are also required to be accompanied by a warning statement on the product label.

It is the responsibility of the product developer to ensure the warning statement is included on the label, and that the ingredients used adhere to the relevant associated maximum allowed use limits where required. Both these aspects are important to ensure

‘slimming’ and sunscreen or sun protection

Be responsible

consumer safety.

claims that cannot be proven.

A cosmetic label often serves as the face

Please consult the Annexes of

Modern and informed consumers

of a product for a consumer deliberating

Government Notice R 1469 draft

question product claims. They have a

on which product to purchase. Besides

Regulations Relating to Labelling,

certain level of awareness about claims

the aesthetic elements, the regulatory

Advertising and Composition of

requiring valid scientific substantiation,

requirements should form a very important

Cosmetics for more information.

which plays a role in the decision-making

consideration with regards to label

process to purchase a product. It is

Product claims

content, as the impact of inaccurate

imperative that all product claims are

or incomplete information may lead to

Claims are often the most noticeable part

substantiated prior to the product being

misinformation and could possibly be

of a label, not only due to the deliberate

placed on the market.

detrimental to a brand.

consumer’s attention, but also because

Legal metrology

such regulatory matters and promotes

the product claim often influences the

In South Africa, legal metrology is enforced

responsible behaviour within the self-

purchase decision.

by the National Regulator for Compulsory

regulated framework. •

artwork and design to attract the

Product claims may convey information

CTFA continues to provide advice on

Specifications (NRCS), through the Legal

about the nature of the product, its

Metrology Act, 2014 (Act 9 of 2014). The

quality, composition and benefits it

NRCS aims to ensure that there is accuracy

REFERENCES

will provide. Both the DOH and the

with technical regulations and promotes

• Advertising Regulatory Board (2019). Cosmetic Advertising Code

Advertising Regulatory Board are explicit

harmonisation by enforcing relevant

about the nature of claims permitted and

product specifications.

The ingredient listing is vital, as it provides the consumer with information on the content of the product acceptable for cosmetics. Claims that

SANS 289 is a mandatory standard, which

convey medicinal properties are forbidden

ensures transparency to the consumer.

on cosmetics as per Regulation 9.1 in

Subsection 4.1 states that a product’s label

the DOH Draft Regulations. These claims

must include the name and address of the

mislead the consumer into believing the

business responsible for the manufacturing,

product is a medicine and can therefore

packaging, distributing, importing or

diagnose, treat, mitigate, modify or

retailing of the product. Additionally, the

prevent a disease as defined by the

unit of measurement and symbols that can

Medicines and Related Substances Act 101

appear on a cosmetic product, as well as

of 1965.

the sizes of the net quantity expressed on

Other examples of claims not permitted on cosmetics include ‘skin-lightening’,

the package and the use of ‘e-mark’, are outlined in this standard.

of Practice.

• Department of Health (2017). Government Notice R 1469 draft Regulations Relating to Labelling, Advertising and Composition of Cosmetics.

• Department of Trade and Industry (2014). Legal Metrology Act 9 of 2014.

• South African Bureau of Standards (2012). SANS 98: Ingredient Labelling of Cosmetic Products.

• South African Bureau of Standards (2016). SANS 289: Labelling Requirements for Prepackaged Products (prepackages) and General Requirements for the Sale of Good subject to Legal Metrology Control.

• South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (1965).

Medicines and Related Substances Control Act 101 of 1965.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Yashmay Gordhon (MPharm) is a pharmacist, currently working as the regulatory affairs officer at the CTFA.

P C Review | APRIL 2020 |

13

COMPANY FOCUS

Strong, profitable and confident about the future Symrise continued its profitable growth course in 2019, achieving all its targets for the year. This was made possible by an 8.0% increase in group sales, amounting to 5.7% growth in organic sales. A significant portion of this growth was seen in the company’s fragrances division, which experienced strong demand for fine fragrance products.

T

aking portfolio and exchange

the year and rolled out new technologies

rate effects into account, Symrise’s

around the world. These targeted growth

in the 2019 fiscal year and significantly

sales increased by 8.0% to €3.

initiatives, combined with our disciplined

exceeded the previous year’s level, with

408 million (2018: €3. 154 million).

cost management programme, are

an ebitda(N) margin of 20.8%. As a result,

As a result, Symrise was again one of

clearly reflected in our operational

the group was once again one of the most

the fastest-growing companies in the

development in recent quarters,” said Dr

profitable companies in the industry.

fragrances and flavours industry. This strong

Heinz-Jürgen Bertram, CEO of Symrise.

Normalised net income increased by

performance was carried by good demand

“Along with our customers, the capital

10.2% year-on-year to €303.5 million (2018:

across all segments and regions. Earnings

market has also responded favourably

€275.3 million). This led to an increase in

before interest, taxes, depreciation and

to our performance. The share price

normalised earnings per share to €2.25

amortisation (ebitda) as well as normalised

increased by 42% in 2019. This year, we

(2018: €2.12). Against the backdrop of the

for one-time effects resulting from the

want our shareholders to participate

positive growth in earnings, the executive

acquisition of ADF/IDF, ebitda(N) increased

again in our success. At Symrise’s AGM,

board and supervisory board of Symrise will

by €76.7 million to €707.2 million.

the executive board and supervisory

propose a dividend of €0.95 per share (2018:

board will propose a dividend increase to

€0.90) at its AGM. Originally planned for 6

€0.95 per share.”

May, the AGM has since been postponed

“Once again, Symrise posted strong growth in 2019. With the acquisition of ADF/IDF, we have continued to expand

Symrise achieved very strong profitability

due to the progression of the COVID-19

in fast-growing, high-margin business

Industry leading sales growth

pandemic. The payment of the proposed

areas. We have also further diversified our

In the year under review, Symrise

dividend will also be postponed.

product portfolio in the attractive pet food

benefitted from good capacity utilisation

market and expanded our position in North

and strong demand in all segments and

Strong cash flow trend

America. In addition, we made investments

regions. The organic growth rate achieved

Symrise grew its normalised business free

to expand our capacities over the course of

a clear 5.7% increase. As a result, the

cash flow by 53% to €476 million in the

group exceeded the average market

year under review (2018: €312 million). This

growth rate in 2019, which was in the 3% to

represents 14.1% of sales, compared to 9.9%

4% range, according to estimates.

in the previous fiscal year.

The acquisition of the ADF/IDF Group,

The significant increase can be attributed

a leading US supplier of poultry and

above all to the strong gain in net income

egg-based protein specialties, which was

for the period and a below-average rise in

completed in November 2019, contributed

working capital.

approximately €32 million to group sales.

As at the date of reporting, net debt, including pension provisions and similar

Unaffected by fluctuating raw material costs

obligations, had increased to €2 221.5 million

The markets for raw materials remained

2019, the ratio of net debt – including

tense, especially in the first half of 2019.

pension provisions and similar obligations

Notwithstanding the above, Symrise

– to ebitda stood at 3.1, and showed little

continued to invest in global capacity

change compared to the level of the

expansion. Major investment projects

previous year (31 December 2018: 3.0). The

included the new manufacturing site in

medium-term target corridor for the ratio is

Nantong, China and the expansion of

2.0 to 2.5.

production capacity for menthol and

14

| APRIL 2020 | P C Review

(2018: €1 893.1 million). On 31 December

The equity ratio increased from 39.5% to

natural extracts in the US and for pet food in

41.4% at year-end, showing Symrise is in a

Colombia and France.

very good financial position.

COMPANY FOCUS Flavour segment This segment achieved a 5.6 % increase in

Symrise fragrance laboratory

sales to €1 257.3 million in reporting currency (2018: €1 191.1 million). After adjusting for exchange rate effects, the organic growth amounted to 3.8%.

This positive trend was carried by all regions and application areas. Flavour benefitted in particular from dynamic demand in Asia-Pacific, where the segment achieved organic growth in the high singledigit percentage range. This was driven by flavourings for applications for confectionary

Dr Heinz-Jürgen Bertram

and beverage products, above all in Indonesia, Malaysia and China.

Ebitda in this segment increased

Scent & Care segment

significantly by 10.1% in the reporting period

Sales in reporting currency grew by a

to €268.5 million (2018: €243.9 million).

positive 7.2% to €1 419.1 million (2018: €1

As a result, the ebitda margin was an

324.1 million) in the Scent & Care segment.

outstanding 21.4% (2018: 20.5%).

This represents an increase of 5.6% in organic terms. The fragrances division in

Nutrition segment

particular showed dynamic growth and

In 2019, the Nutrition segment achieved

experienced strong demand for fine fragrance products.

This was reflected in double-digit

a 14.5% increase in sales to €731.5

DID YOU KNOW?

million, subsequent to sales of €638.8 million in 2018. This included a total of €32

Symrise has committed percentage growth million in sales from to further reducing its in applications for environmental footprint along the ADF/IDF Group. the entire value chain. Its next fine fragrance, Through the initial milestone is to achieve a 60% supported by robust consolidation of the improvement in its environmental efficiency by 2025. The group demand above all group in November intends to be climate-positive by in EAME and Latin 2019, the fourth quarter 2030 and expects its suppliers America. The cosmetic to commit to more climate showed a remarkably protection in ingredients and aroma strong sales increase the future. molecules divisions also posted gains.

Scent & Care grew its ebitda by 9.3%

of 28.7%.

The segment also achieved significant organic growth. Once again,

to €278.0 million (2018: €254.4 million). The

this growth was driven by product

ebitda margin for the year under review

solutions in pet food. The strongest

was 19.6% (2018: 19.2%).

impetus came from North America and

Latin America, where growth was in the double-digit percentage range.

Normalised for one-time acquisition and transaction costs, the segment achieved an ebitda of €160.7 million for the reporting period (2018: €132.3 million), representing an increase of 21.5%.

The ebitda(N) margin also showed healthy growth. It increased to an excellent 22.0%, compared to 20.7% in 2018.

Looking ahead with confidence This year, Symrise aims to achieve significantly stronger growth than what is relevant to the market for fragrances, flavours and cosmetic ingredients, which is projected to grow at a rate of around 4%. The company also expects all of its segments to grow notably faster than the global market.

Assuming raw material costs at their current levels and a stable EUR/USD exchange rate, Symrise anticipates an ebitda margin of over 20% in all segments for the current fiscal.

With its global presence, diversified portfolio and proven strategy, Symrise believes it is well-positioned to achieve

Symrise menthol production

these growth targets. The company plans to continue expanding in fast-growing, high-margin business areas in the future, combining organic investments with targeted acquisitions. In addition, Symrise will remain committed to its disciplined cost and efficiency management.

By 2025, it plans to increase sales from €5.5 billion to €6.0 billion by means of organic growth at an annual rate of 5% to 7% (CAGR), combined with targeted complementary acquisitions. Long term, Symrise aims to achieve an ebitda margin within the target corridor of 20% to 23%. •

Symrise – www.symrise.com

P C Review | APRIL 2020 |

15

CLOSURES, PUMPS & DISPENSERS

New packaging plant under construction in Lanseria

Alpla, an international specialist in plastic packaging and recycling, is building a new manufacturing plant in Gauteng, in line with the latest production standards. The groundbreaking work began in February and completion is scheduled for June 2021.

This rendering shows a modern building, which will include production, logistics and office space covering an area of about 30 000m²

I

n the past five years, Alpla Group (Alpla) has significantly expanded its market presence in Africa through acquisitions

The new ALPLA plant is being built in the immediate vicinity of Lanseria airport

Concentrating on one plant not only simplifies and optimises manufacturing processes, but also contributes significantly to improving logistics and transport

and cooperation agreements. This

included the acquisition of Boxmore Packaging, a leader in the African market for PET preforms, PET bottles and closures, in 2017.

Standard bottle solutions and tailor-

in terms of section 189(3) of the LRA will

made packaging for the personal

be issued. Trade unions have also been

site in South Africa, Alpla is now creating

care, home care, chemical, detergent,

informed of these intentions. •

the basis for long-term growth and

pharmaceutical and food industries will be

competitiveness in the sub-Saharan African

predominantly manufactured as before for

region. As part of a consolidation plan, the

customers ranging from multinationals to

production of five existing plants in Harrismith

smaller, local players.

With the construction of a new production

Fast facts about Alpla As one of the leading groups in the packaging

(Free State), Denver (eastern Johannesburg),

industry, Alpla employs around 20 900

Isando (Ekurhuleni), Kempton Park

Compliant production

(Ekurhuleni) and Samrand (Midrand) will be

“Our new plant in Lanseria gives us the

transferred to the new plant in Lanseria.

opportunity to produce according to

employees worldwide. The company produces custom-made packaging systems, bottles, closures and moulded parts at 181 sites

modern, globally applicable corporate

Excellent infrastructure Construction on the new plant in Lanseria

the quality of our products, but also

started in February 2020. Its location

meet the high demands of our global

in an emerging area northwest of

customers,” says Christoph Riedlsperger,

Johannesburg, has excellent infrastructure

ALPLA regional director for Africa, the

for business and manufacturing.

Middle East and Turkey.

Concentrating on one plant not only

food and drinks, household detergents, washing and cleaning agents, pharmaceutical products, engine oils and lubricants.

As part of the consolidation programme, the management of the group

processes, but also contributes significantly

contemplates that more than 50 employees

to improving logistics and transport.

would be impacted. Accordingly, a notice

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review has been an industry mouthpiece for 47 years, and is proud to be Coschem’s official journal for the past 44 years.

| APRIL 2020 | P C Review

packaging is used in a wide range of areas, including cosmetics and care products,

simplifies and optimises manufacturing

16

located across 46 countries. The high-quality

standards. In this way, we not only improve

Alpla Group – www.alpla.com

To contribute editorially contact Abby Vorster at abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za or +27 (0)11 877 6038 For advertising enquiries, contact Carla Melless at carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za / +27 83 260 6060 Anita Raath at anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za +27 82 976 6541 or Candida Giambo-Kruger at candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za / +27 71 438 1918 Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review SAPharmacos

New Media Publishing, Ground Floor, Media Park 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2029 PO Box 784698, Sandton, 2146 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111 Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198

ETHNIC CARE

New light emollient offers a great alternative to silicones

Consumers are demanding full transparency from brands, leading to a clearer definition of what can be considered a ‘clean beauty’ product. In addition to ingredients, the ethical standards of brands at all stages of a product’s process are being be scrutinised.

S

ilicones are among those

powdery after-feel on skin. It is certified

combing improvement was found to be

ingredients consumers are avoiding

RSPO Mass Balanced and suitable for hair

similar to D5 silicone. The level of shine

in the clean beauty movement.

care, colour cosmetics, sun care and skin

measured on hair treated with Liponate

As a result, brands are looking for

care applications.

CCC MB was more than doubled and it

naturally derived alternatives to replace a Liponate CCC MB compliments the broad

As a leading supplier of speciality emollients, Vantage Specialty Chemicals has created Liponate CCC MB. This 100% naturally derived extra light and fast-spreading emollient offers a great alternative to volatile dry silicones, such as dimethicone.

Supplied as a clear

has been proven to provide hair with robust

Novel alternative for hair care

broad array of silicone ingredients.

DID YOU KNOW?

portfolio of hair care ingredients on offer from Vantage Specialty Chemicals. These ingredients

Compared to existing help to condition and coco caprylate/caprate replenish the scalp and emollient, Liponate CCC MB hair, while enhancing exhibits the lowest amount of long chains (C22 and larger). hair’s aesthetics.

This composition differentiates In hair care products, its fast spreading characteristics, making it Liponate CCC MB has a great candidate for been found to be effective makeup and sun care formulations. in providing various benefits.

oil, it performs as a very light emollient, spreading fast upon application and leaving a soft and

On wet hair, it provides better combing work reduction than D5 silicone and on dry hair, the level of

protection against heat damage.

Liponate CCC MB shows good compatibility with pigments and mineral and organic sun filters.

It’s also highly compatible with mineral oils, waxes and ester emollients, and is highly heat stable. •

Vantage Specialty Chemicals – kim@lipo.co.za

P C Review | APRIL 2020 |

17

ETHNIC CARE

The new beauty boom is ‘waterless’

By 2025, 1.8 billion people will be living in countries with absolute water scarcity, while two-thirds of the world’s population might be living under water-stressed conditions. As water is crucial to maintain life on Earth, it’s important we use every effort to conserve it.

T

he beauty industry certainly

Facial cleansing bars, dry shampoos,

believes it’s important to conserve

no-rinse body washes and solid

water. Recently, major multinational

moisturisers are all water-saving beauty

beauty brands including L’Oréal,

solutions, which are becoming more

Unilever and P&G have made it their

and more popular. However, the next

mission to significantly decrease water

generation of beauty products are set to

consumption in an effort to preserve this

perform without any water at all.

vital natural resource. While these major

The appeal for waterless cosmetics

Table 1: Foaming Cleansing Oil

Trade name

INCI Name

Function

%

Natrasorb Bath Tapioca Starch

Sensory modifier

20

High Oleic Sunflower Oil

Sunflower Oil

Emollient

Elfan AT 84

Sodium Cocyl Isethionate

Surfactant

Fragrance

Aroma

Aroma

69.8

beauty corporations are trying to reduce

and personal care products is already

their carbon footprint by decreasing water

being seen among consumers of a

consumption, other smaller brands are

younger age range. In the UK, around

boycotting water use altogether by creating

25% of youngsters are interested in dry

completely waterless formulas.

soap and dry bath and shower products,

novel, sustainable, organic and ethical

and even more so in France (30%).

ingredients, which provide more value and

Waterless, water-free or anhydrous beauty refers to products that are free from

Consumers are ready for

increase a product’s efficacy.

Nouryon’s Natrasorb Bath Starch (INCI:

waterless products, as long as they are

and nourishing oils instead, to create more

effective, easy to use and have great

Tapioca Starch), is a spray dried and

potent solutions while diminishing the need

sensorial attributes.

dextrinised Tapioca Starch. Available in

The shift to waterless cosmetics Water is a precious commodity that is often overlooked. With consumers becoming more aware of water scarcity, there is a need for new product formulations that require little or no water in order to function. The additional benefits of waterless formulations include a reduction in plastic waste and production costs and aiding the creation of effective products.

Consumers are ready for waterless products, as long as they are effective, easy to use and have great sensorial attributes Many companies are dedicating

South Africa from IMCD, Natrasorb Bath

their sustainability initiatives to water

Starch can be used as a carrier and

conservation, exploring and launching

manufacturing aid for bath salt applications

waterless formulations. This trend is

and is ideal for absorbing the oils and

rooted in the K-beauty market and is now

fragrances used in a bath salt formula.

being embraced by beauty brands and consumers worldwide.

When the oil-loaded starch is mixed with salt granules, it naturally adheres well to the salt, eliminating the necessity for a

More concentrated products

fixative. Within the product’s packaging,

The move towards cosmetics with less

there is virtually no separation of the starch

or no water is driven by the rationale

from the salt.

that water is inactive. Removing water from a formulation provides more room for beneficial ingredients and by reducing the cost of transport, more budget can be allocated to

The adhesion characteristic of Natrasorb Bath Starch is important both for manufacturing uniformity and prolonged packaging stability. In addition, when the salts are added to bath water, the starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing the oils and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates.

Natrasorb Bath Starch is versatile and applicable to other formulations where oil adsorbency and water solubility are required simultaneously. It can be blended with dry surfactant to formulate a foaming cleansing powder with high oil content.

See Table 1 for the formulation guide. •

IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com

18

| APRIL 2020 | P C Review

0.2

This water-free system offers mild cleansing with a nourishing after-feel. It works like a face wash yet is effective in cleansing hard-to-remove makeup

water, using soothing botanical ingredients

for preservatives and unnecessary fillers.

10

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It is non GM (not genetically NATRASORB BATH starch should be stored in a cool, dry is available on request.

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Good industrial hygiene mixing until homogeneous, and subjectively assessing the with location away from heat, sparks or fire.

Good industrial hygiene location away from heat, sparks or fire.

Good industrial hygiene ® practices should be followed when working this starch. location away heat, sparks or fire.

Good industrial hygiene flow properties.

Although itmodified). is not tomodified). dusting, use are of a recommended. dust mask ® modified). ation and sample formulations contact modified). andprone good ventilation Avoid contact flow properties. practices should be followed when working with this starch.

Please read the MSDS before working with this or any other and good ventilation are recommended. Avoid contact practices should be followed when working with this starch. practices should be followed when working with thisstarch. starch. practices should be followed when working with this formation sample formulations contact Please read the MSDS before working with this or any other and sample formulations contact of the powder or dust with heat, sparks or open flame. re.Marketing@nouryon.com . before of the powder or dust with heat, sparks or open flame.

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Storage and handling read the MSDS before working with this or any other Please read the MSDS before working with this or any other A health and safety summary for NATRASORB BATH starch Oil adsorbing hydrophilic alCare.Marketing@nouryon.com chemical. alCare.Marketing@nouryon.com .. starch Storage and handling A health and safety summary for NATRASORB BATH starch chemical. chemical.

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NATRASORB BATH BATH Starch Starch NATRASORB ® NATRASORB ® BATH Starch NATRASORB BATH Starch flow properties. mixing until homogeneous, and subjectively assessing the flow properties.

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Oil adsorbing hydrophilic starch NATRASORB BATH starch should be stored a cool, dry adsorbing hydrophilic starch chemical.

Oil adsorbing hydrophilic starch INCI: Tapioca Starch BATH would be applicable chemical. available on request.

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It is non GM (not starch genetically ® All information concerning our products and/or all ChinaOil Europe adsorbing hydrophilic starch Oil adsorbing hydrophilic starch adsorbing hydrophilic Tapioca Starch NATRASORB BATH starch would be applicable other INCI: Tapioca Starch NATRASORB BATH starch would be applicable in in other location away from heat, sparks or fire.industrial Good industrial location away from heat, sparks or fire.

Good hygiene hygiene ® modified). modified). formulationsAllwhere oilconcerning adsorbency and water solubility are suggestions for handling use contained All information concerning our products and/or all information ourand products and/or all herein da Europe ChinaChina Europe Shanghai, Stenungsund, Sweden practices should be be followed when working with thiswith starch. formulations where oiloil adsorbency and water solubility formulations where adsorbency and water solubility (including formulation and toxicity information) are areare suggestions for handling and use contained herein practices should followed when working this starch. suggestions for handling and use contained herein ormation The and sample formulations contact required simultaneously.

NATRASORB BATH starch is a specialty starch that offers Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden (including andand toxicity information) arereliable.

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INCI: Tapioca Starch NATRASORB BATH starch would applicable insufficiency other implied (i)Nouryon asbe to be the accuracy or formulations where oil adsorbency andorinwater solubility are Due to its unique processing, theEast NATRASORB BATH starch is able Recommended applications Middle South East Asia INCI: Tapioca Starch NATRASORB BATH starch would applicable other implied (i) as to the accuracy sufficiency Tapioca Starch NATRASORB BATH starch would be applicable in other implied (i)be as to the accuracy or sufficiency of such Oil adsorbing hydrophilic starch INCI: Tapioca Starch NATRASORB BATH starch would be applicable in other information and/or suggestions, (ii) asoftosuch any product’s formulations where oil adsorbency and water solubility are formulations where oil adsorbency and water solubility are Due to its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH starch is able Recommended applications Middle East South East Asia to its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH starch is able Recommended applications Middle East East Asia formulations where oil adsorbency and water solubility are All information concerning our products and/or all information and/or suggestions, (ii) as to any product’s information and/or suggestions, (ii) as to any product’s Europe China merchantability or fitness for a particular use or (iii) that Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates required simultaneously.

The NATRASORB BATH starch is a specialty starch that offers formulations where oil adsorbency and water solubility are formulations where oil adsorbency and water solubility are to Singapore absorb and and carry large quantities ofof oils and anhydrous Bath powders formulations where oil for adsorbency and water solubility suggestions handling and use contained merchantability or fitness forfor aherein particular useare or (iii) Dubai, Arab Emirates required simultaneously.

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NATRASORB BATH starch specialty starch that offers liquids, to absorb carry large quantities oils and anhydrous liquids, ••simultaneously. powders required The NATRASORB BATH starch is+971 aDubai, specialty starch that offers absorb and carry large quantities ofstarch oils and anhydrous liquids, •Bath Bath powders Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden any suggested use (including use in any formulation) (including formulation and toxicity information) are required simultaneously.

The NATRASORB BATH starch is a specialty that offers T +65 6635 5183 T 4247 1500 any suggested use (including use in any formulation) required simultaneously.

NATRASORB BATH starch is a specialty starch that offers unique functionality that is particularly suited for bath powders. any suggested use (including use in any formulation) required •simultaneously.

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The starch inbath a athat manner that Carrier for oils T +65 6635 5183 Tparticularly +971 4247 1500 8938 unique isisparticularly suited for bath powders.

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Nothing contained herein unique functionality that isisstarch particularly suited powders. functionality that particularly suitedfor forBATH bath powders. shall be construed as granting or extending any license Due to its unique processing, the NATRASORB starch isisisable Recommended applications However, Nouryon makes no warranty express INCI: Tapioca Starch NATRASORB BATH starch would be applicable other unique functionality that is particularly suited for bath powders. shall be construed asin granting ororextending anyany license Due to its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH starch able Recommended applications “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially in a solid, powder form.

• Anhydrous skin care formulas shall be construed as granting or extending license to its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH starch able Recommended applications “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially ininastarch solid, form.

• •starch Anhydrous skin care formulas Due to itsTapioca unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH able Recommended applications INCI: Starch NATRASORB BATH would applicable insufficiency other implied (i)applications asbe toskin the accuracy or of such “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially astarch solid,ispowder powder form.

Anhydrous care formulas under any patent.

The user must determine for itself Due to its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH is able Recommended applications Russia India its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH starch is able Recommended under any patent.

The user must determine for for itself formulations where oil adsorbency and water solubility are India Russia under any patent.

The user must determine itself Due to its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH starch is able Recommended applications South East Asia Middle East to absorb and carry large quantities of of oils and anhydrous liquids, Bath powders a Russia to absorb and carry large quantities oils and anhydrous liquids, •••where Bath powders information and/or suggestions, (ii) as to any product’s absorb and carry large quantities ofand oils and anhydrous liquids, Bath powders by preliminary tests or otherwise the suitability of any processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the formulations oil adsorbency water solubility are byand preliminary tests or otherwise thethe suitability of any The processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the toThe absorb and carry large quantities of oils anhydrous liquids, • Bath powders by preliminary tests or otherwise suitability of any processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the to absorb and carry large quantities of oils and anhydrous liquids, • Bath powders Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia absorb and carry large quantities of oils and anhydrous liquids, • Bath powders merchantability or fitness for a particular use or (iii) that Mumbai, India Russia Singapore Dubai, Arab Emirates required simultaneously.

The NATRASORB BATH starch isMoscow, aisUnited specialty starch that offersthat Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia to absorb and carry large quantities of oils and anhydrous liquids, • Bath powders such as bath oils.

The starch is processed in a manner creates • Carrier for oils product and of any information contained herein such as bath oils.

The starch processed in a manner that creates • Carrier for oils product and of any information contained herein such as bath oils.

The starch is processed in a manner that creates • Carrier for oils product and of any information contained herein required simultaneously.

The NATRASORB BATH starch is a specialty starch that offers any suggested use (including use in any formulation) starch water soluble that the starch comes in with Features and benefits starch water soluble so that once the comes in contact with Features and benefits as bath oils.

The starch isT+971 processed in ainstarch manner that creates Carrier for oils as bath oils.

The starch isT processed in astarch manner that creates ••with for T 4247 1500 38 T +65 6635 5183 Tsuch +91 22 6842 6700 +7 495 766 1606 starch water soluble so that once the comes incontact contact Features and benefits exico T +91 22 6842 6700 +7 495 766 1606 unique functionality thatso is particularly suited for bath powders. such as bath oils.

The starch isonce processed ain manner that creates •Carrier foroils oils (including but notlimited limited formulation and toxicity (including butbut notnot limited to formulation andand toxicity exico Tsuch +91 22 6842 6700 Toils +7 495 766 such as bath oils.

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•Carrier care formulas “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially ina1606 amanner powder form.

•Carrier Anhydrous skin care formulas unique functionality that iscarry particularly suited forin bath powders. “pockets” that can the oils essentially asolid, solid, powder form.••• Anhydrous •Anhydrous Anhydrous skin care information) forfor the user’s purpose.

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7895 information) purpose. safety of any shall be construed as granting or extending any license Due to its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH starch is able Recommended applications water it immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils.

For more information and sample formulations contact For more information and sample formulations contact “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially in solid, powder form.

• Anhydrous skin care formulas Feature Benefit water it immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils.

7895 Feature Benefit For more information and sample formulations contact “pockets” that of can carry the essentially in aalso solid, powder form.

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The user described must determine for itself The processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the formulations described herein has not been established.

India Russia The processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the to absorb and carry large quantities of oils and anhydrous liquids, • Bath powders us at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com .renders Theto processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also the The processing ofNATRASORB NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the • with usThe atstarch PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com . comes The suitability and safety of aofformulation should be be be us at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com . renders by preliminary tests or otherwise thesafety suitability processing of BATH starch also the The suitability and safety of a any formulation should The suitability and a of formulation should absorb and carrysoluble large quantities of oils and anhydrous liquids, Bath powders water so that once the starch inin contact Features and benefits Hydrophilic Water solubility Moscow, Russia Mumbai, starch water soluble so that once the starch comes incontact contact with Features and benefits starch water soluble so that once the comes contact Features benefits Hydrophilic Water solubility Hydrophilic Water solubility confirmed in all respects by herein the user prior to use.

The starch water soluble so that once the starch comes inin with Features and benefits such asIndia bath oils.

The starch is processed in astarch manner that creates •with Carrier for oils product and of confirmed any information contained confirmed all respects by the user prior to use. ininall respects by the user prior to use.

TheThe starch water soluble so that once the starch comes in contact with Features and benefits starch water soluble so that once the starch comes contact with Features and benefits When used in a bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH starch water soluble so that once the starch comes in contact with Features and benefits When used in a bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH such as bath oils.

The starch is processed in a manner that creates • Carrier for oils When used in a bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH For use in anhydrous formulas ico T +91water 22immediately 6842 6700 dissolves, T +7 495 766 1606 itit immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils. contained herein supersedes previously (including butinformation not limited to formulation and toxicity Feature Benefit For use inalland/or anhydrous formulas For use in formulas All information concerning our products and/or allanhydrous water immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils. water it releasing the loaded oils. information contained herein supersedes all previously information contained herein supersedes all USA and Canada China Europe “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially in a solid, powder form.

• Anhydrous skin care formulas Feature Benefit water it immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils.

For more information and sample formulations contact Feature Benefit All information concerning our products all previously All information concerning our products and/or all Feature Benefit USA and Canada China Europe water it immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils.

USA and Canada China Europe For more information and sample formulations contact water it immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils.

For more information and sample formulations contact information) issued for the bulletins user’s purpose.

The safety of contained any covered. starch carries the oils in a powder form into the bath, but readily on subject matter suggestions forthe handling and use herein Feature Benefit “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially in a solid, powder form.

• Anhydrous skin care formulas Feature Benefit water it immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils.

95 For more information and sample formulations contact starch carries the oils in a powder form into the bath, but readily Feature Benefit issued bulletins on the subject matter covered. suggestions for handling and use contained herein starch carries the oils in a powder form into the bath, but readily issued bulletins on subject matter covered.

Chicago, USA Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden suggestions forthe handling andinformation) use contained herein Oil adsorbency In combination with its water (including formulation and toxicity are The processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden Chicago, USA formulations described herein has not been established.

Oil adsorbency adsorbency In combination its water Chicago, USA Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden Hydrophilic Water solubility Oil In combination (including formulation and toxicity information) arewith us at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com . . them (including formulation and toxicity arewith its water The processing ofin NATRASORB starch also the Hydrophilic Water us at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com . renders T +1 800 906 9977 TTBATH +86 21 2220 5000 TT+46 303 850 00 into us at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing the offered good faith andsolubility are believed to beinformation) reliable.

Hydrophilic Water solubility Hydrophilic Water solubility us at . 303 The suitabilityProducts and safety of in aWater formulation should bebelieved When used aafragrances/emulsifiers, bath formulation, NATRASORB BATH solubility itNouryon delivers oil,oil, fragrances TPersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com +1 800 906 +86 21 2220 5000 +46 850 releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the offered in good faith and areare believed to be reliable.

Hydrophilic Water solubility mentioned are trademarks ofexpress T starch +1 800 906 9977 Tpowder +86 21 2220 5000 Tin+46 303 850 0000 releases the oils/ dispersing them into the offered in good faith and to be reliable.

Hydrophilic solubility water soluble so that once the starch comes contact with Features and benefits When used in bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH Hydrophilic Water solubility For use in anhydrous solubility itformulas delivers fragrances However, Nouryon makes no warranty or When used in aa9977 bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH Products mentioned are trademarks ofexpress Nouryon When used in a bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH solubility it delivers oil, fragrance Products mentioned are trademarks of Nouryon For use in anhydrous formulas confirmed in all respects by the user prior to use.

The However, Nouryon makes no warranty or starch water soluble so that once the starch comes in contact with Features and benefits When used in bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH For use in anhydrous formulas For use in anhydrous formulas and registered in many countries.

However, Nouryon makes no warranty express or When used incarries a in bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH When a the bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH implied (i) as in to the accuracy or sufficiency of such warm water.

The starch itself provides aasoft feel to the bath water, For use inin anhydrous formulas or emulsifiers, coming in in starch oils in aSouth powder form into the bath, but readily and registered many countries.

For use anhydrous formulas For use in anhydrous formulas implied (i)(i) as tomany the accuracy or sufficiency ofwhen such warm water.

The starch itself provides soft feel to the bath water, water it used immediately dissolves, releasing theinto loaded oils. or emulsifiers, when coming information contained herein supersedes all previously Middle East South America East Asia and registered in countries. starch carries the oils in a powder form into the bath, but readily Feature Benefit starch carries the oils in a powder form the bath, but readily implied as to the accuracy or sufficiency of such All information concerning our products and/or all warm water.

The starch itself provides a soft feel to the bath water, Oil adsorbency In combination with its water information and/or suggestions, (ii) as to any product’s or emulsifiers, when in USA and Canada China Europe South East Asia Middle East South America starch carries the oils in a powder form into the bath, but readily water itAmerica immediately dissolves, releasing theinto loaded oils.

For more information and sample formulations contact All information concerning ourcoming products and/o starch carries the oils in a powder form into the bath, but readily Feature Benefit Oil adsorbency In combination with its water information and/or suggestions, (ii)with as to any product’s Oil adsorbency In combination with its water Europe USA and Canada China South South East Asia Middle East contact water starch carries the oils in a powder form into the bath, but readily issued bulletins on the subject matter covered. suggestions for handling and use contained herein All information concerning our products an starch carries the oils in a powder form the bath, but readily merchantability or fitness forcontact a particular use or that Oil adsorbency In combination with its water information and/or suggestions, (ii) as to(iii) any product’s Itupeva, Brazil Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates but does not settle or leave a film.

The NATRASORB BATH starch Oil adsorbency In combination with its water releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the Europe USA and Canada China with water All information concerning our produ Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden Chicago, USA suggestions for handling and use contained he merchantability or fitness for a particular use or (iii) that Oil adsorbency In combination with its water solubility it delivers oil, fragrances Itupeva, Brazil Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates but does not settle or leave a film.

The NATRASORB BATH starch Oil adsorbency In combination with its water Europe USA and Canada China releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the (including formulation and toxicity information) are contact with water any suggested use (including use in any formulation) merchantability or fitness for a particular use or (iii) that suggestions for handling and use containe Hydrophilic Water solubility solubility it delivers oil, fragrances solubility it delivers oil, fragrances Itupeva, Brazil Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates but does not settle or leave a film.

The NATRASORB BATH starch Chicago, USA Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the us at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com .them releases oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the T +55 11the 4591 8938 T21+65 6635 5183 T +971 4247 1500 any suggested use (including use in any formulation) suggestions for handling use con T +1 800 906 9977 T +86 2220 5000 T +46 303 850 00 solubility itNouryon delivers oil, fragrances solubility itwhen delivers oil, fragrances (including formulation and toxicityand information releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the offered in good faith and are believed to be reliable.

Hydrophilic Water solubility Stenungsund, Sweden Chicago, USA Shanghai, China releases oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing into the Tthe +55 11 in 4591 8938 Tformulation, +65 6635 5183 Tto +971 4247 1500 will not infringe any patent.

Nothing contained herein Low bulk density warm water.

The starch itself provides a soft feel the bath water, can also be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath When used a bath powder NATRASORB BATH solubility it delivers oil, fragrances or emulsifiers, coming in any suggested use (including use in any formulation) Products mentioned are trademarks of (including formulation and toxicity informa solubility it delivers oil, fragrances Chicago, USA Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden warm water.

The starch itself provides a soft feel to the bath water, will not infringe any patent.

Nothing contained herein For use in anhydrous formulas T +65 6635 5183 T BATH +971 4247 1500 T +55 11 4591 Low bulk density density warm water.

The starch itself provides a soft feel to the water, or emulsifiers, when coming in However, Nouryon makes no warranty or or can also be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath When used in8938 a906 bath powder formulation, NATRASORB or formulas emulsifiers, when coming inare believed TT +86 21 2220 5000 Tbath +46 303 T +1 800 9977 offered in good faith and to be inf rel (including formulation and toxicity shall be or construed asexpress granting extending any license warm water.

The starch itself provides soft feel to the bath water, For as use in anhydrous will notor infringe any patent.

Nothing contained herein emulsifiers, when coming in warm water.

The starch itself provides a soft to the bath water, can also be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath or emulsifiers, when coming and registered many countries.

TCentral +1 800 906 9977 +86ainto 21 2220 5000 Twater, +46 303850 85000 00 Low bulk offered in good faith andinare believed to be shall be construed as or extending any license implied (i)in to the accuracy sufficiency ofgranting such warm water.

The starch itself provides aasoft feel to the bath water, contact with water or emulsifiers, when coming in starch carries the oils in aSouth powder the bath, but readily warm water.

The starch itself provides soft feel to the bath but does not settle or leave aAsia film.

The NATRASORB BATH starch under any patent.

The user must determine for itself or emulsifiers, when coming in However, Nouryon makes noand warranty express powders with high oil content.

America India Russia Tstarch +1 800 906 9977 Ta+86 21 2220 5000 Tstarch +46 303 00 Modified tapioca contact with water South America East Middle offered in good faith believed shall be construed as granting or extending any license contact with water carries the oils in aor powder form into the bath, butEast readily but does not settle or leave film.

The NATRASORB BATH starch Naturally-derived Oil 850 adsorbency Inand/or combination with its water information suggestions, (ii)information as to any product’s but does not settle or leave aform film.

The NATRASORB BATH starch under any patent.

The user must determine for itself However, Nouryon makes no are warranty exp powders with high oil content.

Central America India Russia contact with water All concerning ourto products and/oror all by preliminary tests or otherwise the suitability of any but does not settle leave a film.

The NATRASORB BATH starch Oil adsorbency In combination with its water USA and Canada China Europe Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived contact with water implied (i) as the accuracy sufficiency of contact with water but does not settle leave aadry film.

The NATRASORB BATH starch under patent.use The user must determine for itself makes no warrants merchantability or fitness aany particular or (iii) that and Caribbean Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates Itupeva, Brazil but does not settle or leave film.

The NATRASORB BATH starch However, Nouryon powders with high oil content.

Russia Central America India releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the by preliminary or otherwise the suitability of any contact with bulk density tapioca can also be blended with surfactant to formulate foaming bath but does not settle oror leave aShanghai, film.

The NATRASORB BATH starch implied (i)use as to the accuracy Modified starch Naturally-derived suggestions for water handling and contained herein or sufficiency product and of anytests information contained herein solubility itfor delivers oil, fragrances South America South East Asia Middle East and Caribbean Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the Biodegradable LowLow bulk density can also be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath useit(including use inofany formulation) Low bulk density any suggested information and/or suggestions, (ii) asor to any p can be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath by preliminary tests or Biodegradable otherwise the suitability of any solubility delivers oil, fragrances Chicago, USA China Stenungsund, Sweden product and any information contained herein T +55 11also 4591 8938 TMumbai, +65 6635 5183 Tformulate +971 4247 1500 South East Asia Middle East South America Mexico City, Mexico T +91 22 6842 6700 T +7 495 766 1606 implied (i) as to the accuracy Low bulk density can also be blended with dry surfactant to foaming bath (including but not limited to formulation and toxicity India Moscow, Russia and Caribbean (including formulation and toxicity information) are information and/or suggestions, (ii) assuffic to an will not infringe any patent.

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The safety of any Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived with high oilBATH content. information suggestions, (ii) as T495 +46 303 850 00 Tpowders +1 906 9977 T +86 21 2220 5000 The starch can be used as a carrier and a offered in good faithmerchantability and areenhancer believedand/or tofitness bedelivering reliable.

T 800 +52NATRASORB 55 5261 7895 shall be construed as granting or extending any Aesthetic license or for a particular us powders with high oil content.

Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates Itupeva, Brazil Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived Mexico City, Mexico T +91 22 6842 6700 T +7 766 1606 (including but not limited to formulation and toxicity information) for the user’s purpose.

The safety of any Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived powders with high oil content. anynot suggested use (including use in anyaformu The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used as a carrier and a T +52 55 5261 7895 contact with water formulations described herein has beenno established. but does not settle or leave a film.

The NATRASORB BATH starch Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived under any patent.

The user must determine for itself However, Nouryon makes warranty express or powders with high oil content.

Central America India Russia T +55 11 4591 8938 T +65 6635 5183 T +971 4247 1500 contact with water merchantability or fitness for in a particu powders with high oil content.

Itupeva, Brazil Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates soft feel any suggested use (including use any fo but does not settle or leave a film.

The NATRASORB BATH starch Aesthetic enhancer delivering a Biodegradable Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived formulations described herein has not been established. information) for the user’s purpose.

The safety of any Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived powders with high oil content.

The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used as a carrier and a The suitability and safety of a formulation should be T +52 55 5261 7895 Biodegradable willaccuracy not infringe any patent.

Nothing contained TCaribbean +55 11 4591 8938 Tsalt +65applications.

6635 5183 T +971earlier, 4247Modified 1500 tapioca starch by preliminary tests or otherwise the suitability of any manufacturing aid for bath As Naturally-derived soft feel Biodegradable implied (i) as to the or sufficiency of(including such and Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia The suitability and safety ofherein auser formulation should be any use use inan a Biodegradable will not infringe any patent.

Nothing conta formulations described has not been established.

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Building on our nearly 400-year history, the dedication of our 10,000 our essential chemistry in the manufacture ofparticulates. everyday products such as and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates.

Saturation (Glistening) 293 addition, when the salts are added to bath water, NATRASORB BATH starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing the oils and fragrance without leaving any residual Loss of free flow 19 Saturation (Glistening) 293 19 Loss of free flow 19 items.

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Saturation (Glistening) 293 and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates.

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BATH starch dissolves and completely, releasing the oils paper, plastics, building materials, food, pharmaceuticals, and personal care Saturation (Glistening) BATH starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing the oils 293 brands includes Eka, Dissolvine, Trigonox, and Berol. and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. employees, and our shared commitment todedication business growth, strong(Glistening) financial Saturation 293 293 ormation visit surfacechemistry.nouryon.com. items.

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ETHNIC CARE / SPONSORED CONTENT

Hyperpigmentation:

a challenge for high melanin content phototypes Skin pigmentation is an international concern. Using Sepiwhite™ MSH and Sepicalm™ VG WP in combination, Seppic demonstrates that these two active ingredients from its Wesource portfolio meet a primary need of darker skin tones – addressing hyperpigmentation.

C

hronological or photoinduced ageing, hormonal

Figure 1: Mechanism of action of Sepiwhite™ MSH

MSH on the MC1R receptor lead to the upstream inhibition of melanogenesis.

disorders (contraceptives,

Complementary tests also demonstrated

pregnancy and menopause,

a downstream inhibition of melanogenesis

etc.), repeated exposure to the sun, and

(see Figure 1), making Sepiwhite™ MSH a

reactions to irritation or inflammation (skin

multi-target lightening agent.

In vitro tests were conducted on

healing, acne or the side-effects of medical treatments), lead to the appearance of skin

melanocytes to assess the performance

pigmentary problems.

of Sepiwhite™ MSH on basal and stressinduced conditions. In basal conditions,

Melanogenesis disorders are common in people of colour (phototypes IV to VI).

Sepiwhite™ demonstrated a 66% reduction

These disorders are among the top five

in intracellular melanin production, higher

most common dermatologic diagnoses

than arbutin, kojic acid and magnesium

in individuals of African descent. A recent

ascorbyl phosphate. Even though

study conducted in Durban, KwaZulu-

Sepiwhite™ MSH demonstrated a similar

Natal, noted that dyschromias are the third

melanin reduction level in UVB-induced conditions (66%), it showed the best

most common dermatologic diagnosis in the area. The most common subtypes

factor in the regulation of skin pigmentation.

reduction in Îą-MSH-induced conditions

of pigmentary disorders include (in order

It acts to stimulate melanogenesis via a

(145%), higher than all other benchmarks,

of frequency) vitiligo, post-inflammatory

type 1 membrane receptor, MC1R. Studies

including hydroquinone. The results show

hyperpigmentation and melasma1.

conducted on human skin have shown that

Sepiwhite™ MSH demonstrates extremely

subcutaneous injection of Îą-MSH induced

good tolerance and no phototoxicity.

Stress-induced hyperpigmentation,

Sepiwhite™ MSH was also tested in vivo

due either to UV and/or inflammation, is

hyperpigmentation. The Îą-MSH is increased

an important challenge of high melanin

both in hyperpigmented areas and in

at 2% on different phototypes, ranging from

content phototypes. The demand for even-

areas exposed to UV radiation. A study also

II to V. A first study on phototypes II and III

tone skin makes it an unavoidable topic

revealed that melanogenesis in melasma

(Caucasian women), demonstrated the

for the cosmetics industry. Hydroquinone

involves epithelial secretion of ι-MSH².

prevention of spots on tanned skin and

was used originally and showed very

The MC1R receptors, activated by

good whitening performance. However,

Îą-MSH and its analogues, are inhibited by

the toxicological profile of the molecule

AGRPs (Agouti-related protein), natural

has resulted in it being forbidden in many

antagonists present in skin. These proteins

countries. Other molecules such as arbutin,

have a phenylalanine amino acid in a key

kojic acid and vitamin derivatives are now

position which plays an essential role in

used as safer alternatives in even tone and

binding to MC1R receptors, leading to an

brightening products. Wesource by Seppic,

inhibition of melanogenesis.

represented locally by CJP Chemicals, offers

In light of these findings, SepiwhiteTM

two products with original mechanisms

MSH was developed as a highly purified

of action which not only focus on basal

lipo-amino-acid (Aminovector™), based on

pigmentation but also on stress-induced

phenylalanine. The mechanism of action

melanogenesis, meeting the needs of skin

of Sepiwhite™ MSH relies on its biomimetic

of colour.

composition and structure. The purified

the increase of skin luminosity. A second study performed on phototypes III and IV

Figure 2: Sepicalm™ VG WP increases MIC1 gene expression (of BMP protein family, which disturbs the Wnt pathway)

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1

has a high affinity with the MC1R receptor

Melanocortin, or alpha-Melanocyte-

and competes with its natural ligands.

Stimulating Hormone (Îą-MSH) is a major

The antagonist properties of Sepiwhiteâ&#x201E;˘

20

| APRIL 2020 | P C Review

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undecylenoyl phenylalanine molecule

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ETHNIC CARE / SPONSORED CONTENT

Figure 3: Results of the in vivo test with Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP: ITA° measurement on skin baseline versus measurement on spots

Figure 4: Synergy of Sepiwhiteâ&#x201E;˘ MSH and Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP

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128 53 681 8 (Asian women) showed universal effects

was downregulated. Seppic then assumed

effect of combining these two products on

on complexion â&#x20AC;&#x201C; skin was lightened,

that Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP could decrease

melanocytes, by measuring the extracellular

skin luminosity increased and redness

basal pigmentation by inhibiting the Wnt/β-

melanin content (see Figure 4).

decreased, revealing radiant skin without

Catenin pathway (see Figure 2).

irritation. A third study, done on phototypes

Following these results, tests were

The combination of 40 ppm Sepiwhiteâ&#x201E;˘ MSH with 5 ppm Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP

IV and V (African and Indian women),

performed on reconstructed epidermis to

doubles the efficacy in the reduction of

demonstrated significant lightening and

measure the melanin content after seven

melanin versus Sepiwhiteâ&#x201E;˘ MSH 50 ppm or

luminosity results from seven days. After

days of treatment with a cream containing

Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP 5 ppm alone.

21 days, a visible reduction in the number

3% Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP versus a placebo.

100% of the volunteers agreed their skin was more uniform, clearer and more luminous of dark spots was observed for 83% of the

The first assay was realised with phototype

volunteers. A total of 100% of the volunteers

VI melanocytes in basal conditions

agreed their skin was more uniform, clearer

(without any stress). After seven days,

and more luminous.

melanin content was reduced by 31%. The second assay was realised with phototype

Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP

IV melanocytes in UVB stress-induced

A mixture of palmitoyl proline and white

conditions (50mJ/cm²). Melanin content

water lily extract, namely Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG

was reduced by 49%.

WP, demonstrated interesting two-in-one

WP not only target basal pigmentation but also stress-induced melanogenesis involved in high melanin-content phototypes and assist with achieving even tone. â&#x20AC;˘

REFERENCES: 1. Dlova N.C., Akintilo L.O. and Taylor S.C., 2019. Prevalence of pigmentary disorders: A cross-sectional study in public hospitals in Durban, South Africa. Int J Womens Dermatol.

13(5): 345-348.

2. EspĂłsito A.C.C., Brianezi G., De Souza N.P. & Co., 2018.

Exploring pathways for sustained melanogenesis in facial

Finally, a clinical study realised on

properties. Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP showed

phototypes III and IV volunteers (Asian

lightening and soothing benefits, making

women) showed a higher efficacy of

it of interest in addressing stress-induced

Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP on dark spots versus

hyperpigmentation.

normal skin (see Figure 3), after two months.

In a UVB stress-induced keratinocyte

All of the abovementioned results showed that Sepiwhiteâ&#x201E;˘ MSH and Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG

The ITA° measurement of spots increased

model, inflammatory mediators like

for 88% of volunteers versus 64% for normal

interleukin-1 and endothelin-1 were reduced

skin. A total of 94% of volunteers observed

in the presence of Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘ VG WP, by

a reduction in the size and intensity of

28% and 120% respectively. Endothelin-1

dyschromia spots.

melasma: an immunofluorescence study. Int J Cosmet Sci. 40(4): 420-424.

3. Teraki E., Tajima S., Manaka I. & Co., 1996. Role of endothelin-1 in hyperpigmentation in seborrhoeic keratosis.

Br J Dermatol. 135(6): 918-23.

4. Park P.J., Lee T.R. and Cho E.G., 2015. Substance P stimulates endothelin 1 secretion via endothelin-converting enzyme 1 and promotes melanogenesis in human melanocytes. J Invest Dermatol. 135(2): 551-559.

is a peptide believed to be involved in the hyperpigmentation seen in seborrheic

Synergistic effects

keratosis3. Another study revealed its

Sepiwhiteâ&#x201E;˘ MSH and Sepicalmâ&#x201E;˘

involvement in stress- and wound-induced

VG WP both demonstrated specific

pigmentation4.

mechanisms of action associated with

Effects on melanogenesis pathways were

basal pigmentation and stress-induced

Tel: +27 (0)11 494 6700

also observed in vitro. An analysis on key

melanogenesis. Both products act on

E-mail: info@cjpchemicals.co.za

melanocyte gene expression revealed an

different pathways, so Seppic assumed

Website: www.cjpchemicals.co.za

upregulation of the MIC1 gene expression

they could have complementary effects.

www.seppic.com

whereas the tyrosinase gene expression

An in vitro evaluation showed the synergistic

P C Review â&#x20AC;&#x201A; | â&#x20AC;&#x201A; APRIL 2020 â&#x20AC;&#x201A; | â&#x20AC;&#x201A; 21

ETHNIC CARE

Skinarch and the art of building collagen In diversity, we can find a common element that unites us. This is the beauty of skin architecture and the inherent biotensegrity of all biological structures. Skinarch by LipoTrue is a novel peptide that enables cosmetics to fully explore the disruptive trend of inclusive beauty and to celebrate the differences of all skin types.

T

he peptide Skinarch (INCI:

presence of the peptide

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-72 Amide)

was performed using a

allows brands to embrace

turbidity test (phases

the inclusive beauty trend by

determined according

addressing two common features in

to fibrillogenesis

all ethnicities – skin architecture and

reference curve).

tensegrity. Tensegrity is key for collagen fibres and only a good network formation ensures it.

The peptide increases Mohawk, a novel key player in the field of cosmetics, which may be considered the architect of the skin, promoting the formation of

0.001mg/mℓ, 0.005mg/mℓ and 0.01mg/mℓ of the

DID YOU KNOW? LipoTrue is focused on obtaining

peptide for 48 hours.

Significant increases of 11%, 17% and 41%

respectively, were advanced active ingredients observed versus through cutting-edge technological platforms. Each technological artificially aged the basal control. platform has its own specialised human skin explants Turbidity tests R&D team, which is coordinated to (sourced from a showed that the offer a solid portfolio of premium active ingredients, both in 54-year-old), were peptide was able to efficacy and innovative treated with the peptide increase the velocity concepts.

Young and

for 10 days to evaluate

and the amount

new and well-organised collagen I and

collagen quality, density and

III fibres, together with collagen VI, for a

the amount thereof; as well as the

proper biotensegrity which counteracts

fibre thickness and organisation by TEM;

solution, in a dose-response manner,

collagen fibril degeneration as we age.

and conventional dye binding.

as observed with 0.01mg/mℓ and

Skinarch also works on the four collagen

of spontaneous fibrils formation in a collagen

0.04mg/mℓ of the peptide.

families: fibrillar collagens; connecting

In vitro and ex vivo results

The evaluation of collagen quality,

and anchoring collagens; network-

Using NGS, the Mohawk homeobox

density, amount, thickness and quantity

forming collagens and collagen-like

gene was found, amongst others, to be

and organisation of fibres evaluated with

membrane proteins.

upregulated 1.32-fold. This was validated

TEM, showed the peptide was able to

via the Mohawk protein expression with a

improve those attributes, rejuvenating

skin architecture to fight against wrinkles

significant increase of 31%, 51% and 81%

the skin’s architecture by 10 years

and sagging has been proven in a varied

versus the placebo in a dose-response

(see Figure 2).

panel of volunteers with light-pigmented

manner at 0.001mg/mℓ, 0.005mg/mℓ

(phototype II to III) and dark-pigmented

and 0.01mg/mℓ of Skinarch.

The inclusive efficacy of Skinarch on

(phototype V to VI) skin. Results showed

The qPCR demonstrated an

Skinarch reduces crow’s feet wrinkles and

upregulation of the fold change in the

roughness on the cheek area for both

genes of the skin collagen families,

types of the phototype. The novel peptide

such as fibrillar (1.16 COL3, 1.18 COL5),

also had an innovative restructuring and

connecting (1.16 COL6, 1.45 COL7, 1.70

firming effect on the face architecture.

COL12, 1.38 COL14), networking (1.17

Figure 1: Immunofluorescence F-actin (in red) and Mohawk (in green)

COL4) and collagen-like membrane

Methods In the fibroblasts, a qPCR evaluated

proteins (1.20 COL13).

Since the Col6A1 gene is involved in

gene expression related to the four main

the fibrillogenesis of type I collagen, an

collagen families: fibrillar collagens;

increase in protein levels was observed

connecting collagens; network collagens

after incubation in the fibroblasts with

and collagen-like membrane proteins.

Thereafter, an Elisa test was performed in the fibroblasts to evaluate the increase of the protein levels of two main

Figure 2: TEM analysis of younger skin (54-year-old skin explant, hOSECs) and aged skin (hOSECs skin explant treated with 5µg/mL hydrocortisone for 5 days, equivalent to a 68-year-old explant). The aged skin was treated daily for 10 days with a cream containing 1% Skinarch

upregulated genes – Mohawk and collagen VI. Immunofluorescence was used to confirm the localisation of Mohawk (nucleus), being the newly identified protein (transcription factor).

See Figure 1.

The study of spontaneous collagen fibril formation in the absence or

22

| APRIL 2020 | P C Review

Younger skin

Aged skin

Aged skin + placebo

Aged skin + 1% Skinarch

ETHNIC CARE Figure 3: VECTRA-XT whole face images of volunteers (left volunteer is aged 60 and the volunteer on the right is aged 50), who experienced a full-face lifting and plumping effect after 56 days, after applying a cream with 2% Skinarch Left

Figure 4: Crow’s feet AEVA-HE image of a volunteer, aged 54 who experienced a 54% decrease in wrinkle volume and 10% decrease in wrinkle depth, after applying a cream with 2% Skinarch, before (left) and after (right) 28 days

Right

Clinical instrumental evaluation

28 days on average volunteers. After

Proven effective

Two panels of female volunteers with skin

56 days of application, the wrinkle volume

Through the evaluation of a key skin

phototypes II to III and V to VI applied

in the crow’s feet area of dark-pigmented

care application known as biotensegrity,

a cream containing 2% of Skinarch,

volunteers decreased significantly, by

LipoTrue provides the cosmetics industry

which was subsequently compared to a

41%. Using new VECTRA-XT software, a

with a novel molecule that can sculpt

placebo cream. Treatment was extended

dramatic lifting effect was observed

the architecture of the face. This is done

to 56 days with a twice-daily application.

on a phototype V to VI volunteer, with

by targeting a novel player in skin care,

the highest improvement on the end-

Mohawk, which is involved in the expression

cheek area.

of key collagens and tissue organisation to

Using AEVA-HE, average roughness (Ra) decreased significantly by 4% after 56 days on all the volunteers. Average relief

A sculpting effect was observed on a

(Rz) was significantly reduced by 7% after

phototype II to III volunteer with a plumping

56 days on light-pigmented volunteers.

effect noticed in the shallow areas around

The crow’s feet area was significantly

the eyes and a defining effect on the

decreased by 7% versus the placebo after

cheek contours (see Figure 3).

AAFF-LIPOTRUE- SKINARCH - ANUNCIO 177x130mm-TRAZ.pdf

1

26/3/20

guarantee proper firmness and resilience within the skin. •

LipoTrue – www.lipotrue.com

15:25

C

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CMY

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P C Review | APRIL 2020 | 23

ETHNIC CARE

Green is the new black

Natural ingredients are increasingly being used in conventional hair and beauty products. If you’re interested in developing natural and organic hair and skin care products for the African market, Natura-tec, represented locally by AECI Specialty Chemicals, offers a range of solutions that meet current market demands.

A

ctive ingredients from natural

Alternative to synthetic raw materials

Thanks to the

sources are becoming

research on hair’s

increasingly sought after by

anatomy and

consumers who are eager

various advanced

Plantsil is a universal emollient for

to achieve a beautiful, healthy look for

technologies, it’s

cosmetics. It restores suppleness

their hair and skin. This includes avoiding

possible to develop

and elasticity to skin and hair. When

the use of ingredients perceived as either

ingredients that

applied, the sensation is light and

harsh or synthetic.

bring the benefits

non-greasy, like a caress on the skin.

By using plant- and vegetable-based

Rapidly absorbed, it leaves a

of vegetable-

products, consumers benefit from the

based materials to

unique soft sensation and powdery

sense of ‘being kind to their bodies’. They

modern cosmetics.

finish. Its long-lasting silky feel

also feel empowered by using nature’s own

These ingredients

creates a satin effect in skin and hair

range of chemical compounds to protect

are delivered in an

and nourish their hair.

effective, stable and

Abysoft from Natura-tec is a COSMOS-

purified form, meeting

care applications.

Graphical representation of hair growth

In a base shampoo, studies conducted by Natura-tec confirm

approved multifunctional performance

the acceptance and

that the behaviour and effect of

enhancer for skin, makeup and hair care

expectations of consumers and allowing

Plantsil on hair is similar to that

applications. This multitasking complex

brands to truly revisit the original ‘cosmetic

of silicone.

combines and enhances the benefits of

art of nature’.

Crambe abyssinica seed oil with the bioactive effects of phytosterols. Its nutritional

Good hair health

and replenishing properties contribute

Modern science provides a deep

to formulating this exceptional complex

understanding of the structure of hair and

adapted for intensive benefits for the hair.

its response to different treatments. The hair shaft is comprised of three layers of

Abysoft complex

keratin, including the medulla, cortex and

Hair is one of the most important aspects

the cuticle. Keratin is a protein made up

of a person’s appearance, and the

of 18 amino acids. It is produced by the

apparent health of an individual’s hair also

keratinocytes located in the hair bulb.

reflects their overall health as well as their

Cuticles have evolved to protect the soft

attitude to maintaining their appearance.

fibres of the cortex and medulla, while the

African hair comes in many different

overlapping scales of the cuticle work as a

textures and it’s versatile and resilient. It

first line of defence against pollutants and

holds braided hairstyles, is worn natural

mechanical stress.

by many and can be relaxed for whatever reason the consumer chooses.

Healthy African hair has a great impact

The hair shaft serves many purposes, including regulating body temperature, protecting a sensitive scalp and facilitating

on one’s confidence and sense of well-

the evaporation of sweat. However, like a

being. Previous studies on hair applications

filter, it attracts and holds environmental

demonstrate that Abysoft (now referred to

pollutants, which, when added to traces

as ‘the complex’) improves hair elasticity,

of styling products and physiological

increases the brightness of hair, and shows

processes, may dull and

a significant conditioning effect with an

damage the hair. As a result,

immediate influence on the increase of hair

gentle, thorough

volume. The complex can also be used as a

cleansing is essential

replenishing agent with a perceivable and

for good

beneficial sensorial performance.

hair health.

24

| APRIL 2020 | P C Review

ETHNIC CARE

Hair also needs lipids in order to be as healthy as possible. Some lipids are a constituent part of the hair shaft, while others are produced by the sebaceous glands. Lipids produced at the hair bulb include sterols, fatty acids and ceramides. They are mainly present in the intercellular cement of the cortex and the cuticle and give hair a level of permeability. They also ensure the cohesion of the cells within the hair fibre.

The sebaceous glands, attached to hair follicles, produce sebum. This mixture of triglycerides, waxes and squalene lubricates the hair, maintaining its flexibility and gloss.

Abysoft has been proven to provide increased hair volume, elasticity and brightness, making it an ideal choice for formulators looking to create products that offer comprehensive hair health benefits. It leaves a protective veil like a second skin and provides an excellent conditioning and protective effect on the hair.

It’s also an excellent moisturising agent and protects and maintains hair’s natural vitality against mechanical and environmental stress.

Abysoft increases the skin’s hydration rate by more than 60% after five days of application and protects the cutaneous barrier. It can also be used as a replenishing agent and has the ability to improve pigment dispersion

Abysoft has been proven to provide increased hair volume, elasticity and brightness

in makeup and beauty products.

Hair growth and strength active SeaRenew is the result of advanced research and careful development based on sustainable microalgae technology using eco-friendly industrial production processes combined with renewable sapote oil crops, which preserve biodiversity and support disadvantaged communities.

Positioned as a hair growth and strength active, SeaRenew is a new, sustainable and fully renewable liposoluble ingredient with high vegetable cholesterol content. It is based on sapote oil – a sustainable and active oil that is a source of triterpene alcohols, sterols and omega 6 and 9 – and Nannochloropsis oceanica extract. This extract is the first substantial source of cholesterol in the vegetable world with one of the highest concentrations of sterols (>70% sterol total). Cholesterol plays an important role in hair vitality by protecting it from dehydration and dysregulation of the microbial ecosystem.

SeaRenew is a cell proliferation inducer of hair follicle fibroblasts, confirming its extensive potential to promote hair strength and growth. The sapote oil is ideal for stimulating hair growth and to care for dry, curly or ethnic hair. It’s gentle on the most sensitive scalps and acts on slowing hair loss. With SeaRenew, the scalp is soothed and nourished and the hair is brighter and smoother. Its subtle almond odour complements hair care products, such as conditioners and balms. •

Natura-tec – www.naturatec.com AECI Specialty Chemicals – Charmaine.dupreez@aeciworld.com

P C Review | APRIL 2020 | 25

PHARMA FOCUS//Technology FOCUS & Software Solutions

Manufacturer drives profitable growth by installing new software Peppina has been experiencing unprecedented growth in the demand for its services. As a result, the pharma contract manufacturer has been fast outgrowing its legacy infrastructure and current method of managing operations. This prompted a strategic decision to implement SAP Business One to progress from manual to automated reporting.

L

iesl Groenewald, operations

with manufacturing would now be

information, the ability to capture batch

manager at Peppina, explains:

accounting for the largest part of our

numbers and expiry dates, full integration,

“Our legacy system was largely

business,” says Groenewald.

automation and absolute traceability.”

Growth, challenges and opportunity

The right vendor and solution

captured by hand and on Excel, predominantly by one individual. Not

Peppina’s growth trajectory has shown

representative from 4most Systems, a

only was this incredibly time-consuming,

no sign of slowing down. This and the

leading supplier and implementer of

but the scope for mistakes and human

strict industry regulations and processes

SAP Business One and ERP software

error was fast becoming an unnecessary

associated with pharma manufacturing,

technology. Groenewald believed

challenge, potentially hindering

pushed the company to review potential

Peppina had potentially found the

what could otherwise be a far more

technology solutions. The right solution

answer for its day-to-day needs and the

streamlined and efficient way of

had to be capable of enabling

doing business.”

Peppina to meet current

responsible for the sales portion

of our business. Everything else was

Founded in 1956 as a mail

requirements while

order business, Peppina is one of

supporting continued

approximately 24 contract manufacturers

future growth.

in South Africa, specialising in pharmaceutical production.

Headquartered in Johannesburg, Peppina enjoys a national and global presence. The products manufactured at its facility are available on both the local and international market and it offers an online shopping facility for its own branded products.

“We made the move from mail order

Peppina was contacted by a

DID YOU KNOW?

more unique areas specific to the stringent requirements of the pharma industry.

“I had not realised SAP helps give people and the amount of organisations deep business insight It was clear customisation and fosters collaboration that helps them stay ahead of their competition.

Peppina required possible and The ERP solutions provider simplifies a fully integrated afforded by SAP technology for companies so that they can consume SAP’s software the way they system, capable Business One,” she want – without disruption. SAP’s end-toof customisation says.

“It’s as if we end suite of applications and services enables more than 440 000 business where necessary, were able to take and public customers to operate in order to meet the top off-the-shelf profitably, adapt continuously its unique industry package suitable to and to make a difference. related requirements. our needs and customise “We weren’t interested

it to create a solution

to producing our own products 30

in developing anything from

years ago. However, it was only about

the ground up or running separate

requirements and the industry in which

eight years ago that we began the

packages,” stresses Groenewald. “Our

we operate.”

manufacturing side of our business,

requirements included automatic stock

never once predicting our success

reconciliation, real-time access to

26

| APRIL 2020 | P C Review

best suited to our environment,

Peppina gathered positive feedback and recommendations on the

PHARMA FOCUS//Technology FOCUS & Software Solutions Secondly, the sharing of information

be corrected instantly, removing any

gives a lot more people access to data,

potential knock-on effect. Peppina now

faster and more efficiently than ever

knows exactly what is in-coming, where

before. Long gone are the days of one

it’s been dispatched from and what

person owning all the information.

quantity, all of which plays a major role in improving daily efficiencies. Industry

Sound business decision

compliance also requires that the

The pharma industry and its

company runs a mock recall every

accompanying regulations make for very time-consuming processes, irrespective of the underlying

Peppina’s private label vitamin brand, Symbio-D

company after conducting market research on 4most Systems as a vendor.

She adds: “4most’s reputation as one of the leading local vendors for SAP Business One cemented our commitment to move forward, not only with implementing SAP Business One, but also with 4most as our chosen service provider.”

On 1 March 2019, Peppina went live with its new installation of SAP Business One. The first few months proved challenging considering the change management and getting used to a new set of processes and an entirely different system.

The management of Peppina’s stock levels has benefitted exponentially from SAP Business One

year, which is easy to do via SAP Business One. Whilst the procurement process has

technology infrastructure. A set

benefitted from the new technology

of physically signed-off paper

infrastructure, there are some final

copies needs to be kept as part of

tweaks Groenewald would like to

compliance. However, the beauty of a

investigate together with a few smaller

fully automated and integrated system

issues pertaining to the display of

means that any human errors are now

currencies within its financial reporting.

identified immediately.

“If something is captured incorrectly

“Realistically, it probably takes about a year from initial implementation

by hand, it will be evident as soon as

to completely iron out all chinks,”

it’s entered into the system,” comments

says Groenewald. “But we are so

Groenewald. “And I can simply log

much further down the road than we

on to SAP Business One to find all the

have ever been and look forward to

information I need so much quicker

continuing both our investment in SAP

than what was previously possible. The

Business One and our relationship with

customised reporting is also a great

4most into the future.” •

tool to have. Literally, at the press of a button, I can access a report on whatever I require, with the costing of

4most Systems – www.4most.co.za SAP Business One – www.sap.com

products in real time possible too.”

The management of Peppina’s stock levels has benefitted exponentially, with SAP Business One providing the functionality to not only realise any potential errors immediately but also allowing for the errors to

“No matter how much training one has, it is only in the actual ‘doing’ that one can really learn, thereby making a new system one’s own,” says Groenewald. “There were also things that we didn’t know, we didn’t know.

For example, customising customer statements and invoices to suit a business’s corporate identity and financial regulations, as opposed to simply running SAP Business One’s generic templates. But, as we learned, we got better.”

Despite the challenges, two very significant benefits are already yielding advantages for Peppina. The first is transparency. Once information is captured onto the SAP Business One system, it is there, and there is no hiding.

This allows for complete accountability.

P C Review | APRIL 2020 |

27

PHARMA FOCUS//Technology FOCUS & Software Solutions

Level up & join the fight against counterfeiting Annually, pharmaceutical counterfeiting puts millions of lives at risk. In order to address this growing problem, governments around the world are taking action by implementing serialisation requirements. By Abby Vorster

S

imilar to the requirements of Europe’s

10 years. We are one of the actors

Falsified Medicines Directive, South

working on all levels, from zero to four,

Africa will be joining the global

and are now moving into working on

fight against counterfeit medicines

level five,’ Sliski explains. ‘Levels zero

with the promulgation of track and trace

to three are often for manufacturers

regulations, centred on product serialisation.

to define their serialisation approach to be

These regulations will be phased in providing

interoperable. Zero is the machine, one is the

manufacturers with enough time for

marking and verification technologies and

science and more recently dairy milk, Zetes

adequate preparation. Ultimately, all local

two to three are the serialisation software

provides a comprehensive range of solutions

pharma manufacturers should be compliant

levels on the line at factory level, linking to

proven to ensure agility and traceability.

by 2022.

level 4 and integrated with the ERP. Level four

A look at the levels

Serialisation and aggregation levels explained

‘We are an ideal partner for pharma

is at the company level, which manages

manufacturers to help secure and control

the status of the unique identifiers and their

their supply chains, while ensuring global

If you’re considering implementing a

business evolution. It also collects and shares

visibility,’ adds Sliski. ‘With Zetes, you will

serialisation project and are unsure about

information concerning unique identifiers

be able to comply with all traceability

what will meet your needs, Sébastien Sliski,

with other level fours and publishes the

regulations, combat counterfeiting, secure

Zetes’ serialisation expert, says the best way to

information to the government repository

your distribution channels, achieve delivery

understand serialisation and aggregation is

(level five). This is the repository where all

service level agreements and in the event

to think in levels. This helps to break down and

the actors publish serialised numbers for

of a recall, you will be equipped to manage

define the different components in line with

controlling and checking.’

this efficiently.’ •

your needs, whether you’re manufacturing medicines or dispensing them.

‘Zetes has been working on serialisation solutions for different markets for about

Agility and traceability guaranteed Based on the global trend to secure markets such as pharmaceuticals, tobacco, agro-

Zetes – www.zetes.com

YOUR SERIALISATION EXPERTS Single source track and trace solutions for Pharma supply chain Trusted by major EMEA companies Scalable and agile approach

W WA AN NTT TTO OK KN NO OW WM MO OR REE V VIISSIITT W WW WW W..ZZEETTEESS..C CO OM M IIN NFFO O@ @ZZA A..ZZEETTEESS..C CO OM M

28

| APRIL 2020 | P C Review

Innovative facility upgrades for local pharma manufacturer

A

t its production plant

INSTALLATION

The Watson-Marlow 530 pump

in North Riding,

was the obvious choice for many

Johannesburg, the Acorn

reasons. This pump type maintains

Group is benefitting from

process integrity and offers flow rates

dosing accuracy and consistency

up to 3.5ℓ per minute at two bar

provided by a Watson-Marlow 530

pressure. In addition, there are four

peristaltic process pump. The

drive and five pumphead options,

pump is being used to transfer bulk

along with a wide range of tube sizes

aerosol concentrates.

and materials.

The Acorn Group is a dynamic, specialises in the formulation,

Innovative, reliable and compliant

manufacturing, testing and

The new pump forms part of a much

distribution of topical pharmaceutical

bigger upgrade recently completed

creams, stick products and aerosols.

at the Acorn Group’s production

It also produces domestic products

plant. This upgrade included the

ranging from detergents to insect

fitment and qualification of new

repellents, including the well-known

reverse osmosis services, peristaltic

Tabard, Vapona, Teepol and

pumps, HEPA filtration, bio-safety

Carbro brands.

cabinets and high-speed roller doors.

The right pump for the job

facility was modified to create the

Aerosol concentrate is not viscous

isolation of processes and allow for

or shear sensitive, and there are no

trafficable ceilings. As a result, it now

extreme temperatures involved in its

boasts class 8 ISO air, with a pressure

production. While pumping aerosol

cascade and linear product and

concentrate appears straightforward,

personnel flow paths.

family-owned business that

The structure of the manufacturing

there is a key requirement for

Being a South African Health

precision, which lead Acorn in search

Products Regulatory Authority

of a suitable pump to meet its needs

registered GMP facility means

for accuracy and quality. The group

there is an uncompromising

found a solution in the Watson-

attitude at the Acorn Group

Marlow 530 process pump with

towards safety, efficacy, constancy,

a 520R2 pumphead and

and compliance. The group’s

silicone continuous tubing which is

organogram reflects an experienced

capable of dosing with just about

and dedicated pharmaceutical

1% accuracy.

team capable of maintaining these

“To provide a summary of the process, bulk aerosol concentrate

required standards.

As an independent

is drawn from a 100ℓ stainless steel

pharmaceutical contract

holding tank with constant head

manufacturer, the Acorn Group

height and transferred via the Watson-

remains flexible to its clients’ needs.

Marlow 530 pump into aerosol tins.

The family feel within the company

The accuracy and consistency of

not only ensures that staff remain

dosing via the pump is thus critical.

motivated but also guarantees

Thereafter, a valve is added and

the success of the company for

crimped, and propellant introduced

future generations. •

via the gassing plant,” comments Robert Verseput, a representative from Acorn Group, who is helping to enhance the company’s business model and expand its distribution network globally.

The Acorn Group – www.acorngroup.co.za Watson-Marlow – www.watson-marlow.com

P C Review | APRIL 2020 | 29

HOME CARE

Bleach systems to deliver hygiene benefits in laundry detergents

Consumers require new aspects of performance from detergent components, driving the demand for laundry detergents with ‘hygiene’ or ‘sanitising’ claims. Jane Mathews and Eve De Maesschalck of Lubrizol Advanced Materials explain the importance of bleach systems in laundry detergents where hygiene effectiveness is key.

G

overnments and the

Discussion and results

Figure 2). Results show detergent alone fails

World Health Organization

Within a laundry detergent formulation,

to pass the ASTM test (49g detergent with

have released a variety

a bleach system is primarily employed

12 minutes contact time at 30°C), which

of guidelines and

for the removal of coloured bleachable

requires a Log 3 reduction in bacteria to be

recommendations to manage, control

stains through the oxidation of stains

achieved. However, the addition of TAED/

and reduce the spread of diseases. The

either on a fabric surface or in the

PCS to deliver 150ppm PAAH clearly passes

most basic protection usually involves

wash liquor. In addition to stain removal

the ASTM E2406-09 test.

frequent hand washing with soap and

and maintaining the colour of white

water or using alcohol-based hand rub.

textiles, the bleach system also provides

However, disinfecting clothes, linens and

the functions of ensuring fabric and

Preventing microbial contamination

washing machines can also help reduce

machine hygiene. The most well-

It has been widely reported that microbial

possible spread of germs and ensure

established laundry bleach system is

build-up can occur in washing machines3.

hygiene in the home.

the bleach activator TAED (tetra acetyl

The impact of ineffective biocidal control

ethylene diamine) which is used

can result in the appearance of unsightly

Historically, laundry detergents have been employed to clean clothing and domestic household items, primarily to remove specific stains from the laundry wash load. Yet dirt and microbes can contaminate textiles.

Clothing and linen are a risk factor for transmission

DID YOU KNOW?

in conjunction with sodium percarbonate (PCS) to form

As laundry wash habits peracetic acid (PAAH), and machine wash shown in the reaction in conditions continue to evolve globally, the focus Figure 1. on sustainability presents PAAH generated from challenges to detergent formulators. TAED is gentle the PCS/TAED contained on the environment, readily biodegradable, and of very in powder detergent low toxicity, delivering formulations is responsible the safe generation of PAAH. for low temperature

of infections and illnesses. The spread of diseases via soiled clothing,

bleaching and broad-spectrum biocidal performance ensuring both the

dark coloured biofilms, which adhere to the inner machine seal, fabric conditioner dispensing drawer and sump (see Figure 3). These biofilms can detach during the wash cycle and attach to washed fabrics contaminating the clean clothes and resulting in the need to re-wash fabrics.

The results of testing under multicycle washing conditions at 30°C, in the presence and absence of an activated bleach system, are shown in Figure 4. The gradual build-up of microbial

as well as malodour issues, can be

washing machine and laundered fabrics

contamination over 30 wash cycles

prevented through the use of laundry

are hygienically clean¹. The hygiene

is clearly indicated when a non-

detergents with antimicrobial efficacy.

benefit delivered through the bleach

bleach detergent is used with a fabric

Over recent years several changes

system is now becoming increasingly

conditioner. After only 10 cycles, the total

have occurred in the laundry detergent

important, particularly under conditions

aerobic bacterial count reaches Log 4 (10

market which have in turn driven changes

of high soil loading and as high

000 bacteria cells/cm³), in the sump and

in consumer washing practises. The

temperature washing is now less frequent,

drum. This level of bacteria amounts to

heating of water in the washing machine

preventing thermal disinfection.

hygiene concerns.

cycle is widely recognised as the activity

Many washing machines also have the

Malodour was also noted in the

that consumes the most energy. To

option of quick wash cycles, which include

machine from 10 cycles, again indicating

address the needs of sustainability,

a reduced length of main wash time and

a microbial increase. This build up can

consumers are advised to wash at lower

result in reduced exposure to the biocidal

be reduced through the presence of a

wash temperatures to deliver energy

effect of detergent and temperature2.

bleaching agent generating 130ppm

savings. Additionally, the amount of water

In the absence of a bleach system,

used in a wash cycle has decreased over

ineffective control of microorganisms

the last 20 years.

on fabrics can potentially cause health

A study by Lubrizol Advanced

problems for society’s most vulnerable,

Materials demonstrates that the use of

including young children, the elderly

tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED) in

and people with compromised

combination with sodium percarbonate

immune systems2.

(PCS) can deliver effective hygiene

Testing has shown that in the

performance benefits and compensate

absence of bleach a reduced kill of

for the loss of hygiene effectiveness of

microorganisms is delivered – illustrated

washing at lower temperatures.

in the ASTM HE laundry test E2406-09 (see

30

| APRIL 2020 | P C Review

Figure 1: Bleach activator chemistry of TAED used in conjunction with a peroxide source to form PAAH in a laundry detergent

HOME CARE Figure 2: The inclusion of a bleaching agent can increase the kill of microorganisms (Klebsiella pneumoniae and Staph. Aureus), in the ASTM HE laundry test E2406-09. The addition of TAED/sodium percarbonate to deliver 150ppm PAAH passes the ASTM HE laundry test E2406-09 test at 30°C as indicated by the red arrow (Log 3 reduction)

Figure 3a & b: Dark coloured biofilms adhering to the inner machine seal (a) and to the fabric conditioner dispensing drawer (b)

3a

PAAH as illustrated in Figure 4. Odour build up was also avoided.

Addressing fabric malodour

3b

Figure 4a: Build-up of total aerobic bacteria count when no bleaching agent is present during front loader, 30°C wash, with soiled ballast when using liquid laundry detergent and fabric conditioner – repeat cycles (fiver wash cycles per week) b:Reduction in total aerobic bacterial count through addition of bleach booster (TAED/sodium percarbonate powder generating 130 ppm PAAH).

4a

4b

Malodour, as a result of poor microbial control, is one consequence frequently noticed by consumers 4, 5. The drying stage of laundering often reduces the level of microbes. But when drying occurs slowly under hot humid conditions, microorganisms increase in number and continue to metabolise, generating odour.

Consumers also complain of odour ‘blooming’ on sportswear. This occurs when microbial contamination of fabrics causes the release of pungent volatile organic chemicals from microbes that become trapped in fibres and slowly release when the fabrics’ temperature increases during wear. This can be

REFERENCES: 1. Honisch.M, Stamminger.R, Bockmuhl.D.P, Journal of Applied Microbiology 117, 1787-1797 (2014) 2. Honisch.M, Branda D, Weide M, SpeckmannH, Stamminger R, Bockmuhl.D, Tenside Surf. Det. 53 547-552 (2016)

for the group’s EMEA region home care

5. Stapleton.K, Hill.K, Day.K, Perry.J.D, Dean. J.R, Letters in Applied Microbiology

bleach activator. •

Mostyn site where she is responsible for managing R&D and technical support

of TAED/PCS in a laundry detergent,

distributor of Lubrizol Advanced Materials’

at Lubrizol Advanced Materials’

4. Amberg.C, SOFW Journal 140, 3-2014, 64-74 Applied Microbiology, 56, 299-306 2013, The Society of

Saxony Chemicals is the South African

Jane Mathews is the technical manager

3. Henning.K, SOFW Journal 138 10-2012, 64-70

prevented, thanks to the inclusion increasing the kill of microorganisms.

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

business and globally for TAED. Eve De Maesschalck, senior scientist at Lubrizol Advanced Materials, is responsible for

Lubrizol Advanced Materials – www.lubrizol.com Saxony Chemicals – www.saxonychemicals.com

developing home care applications and providing technical support to customers.

Saxony Chemicals is a leading supplier of speciality raw materials into the South African detergent industry.

Product range includes: • TAED (tetraacetylethylenediamine) • Sodium Perborates • Optical Brightening Agents 207 Sameja Drive, Dunkirk Estate , Salt Rock 4391, Kwa-Zulu Natal Tel: +27 (0) 82 466 2833 | Email: chris@saxonychemicals.co.za www.saxonychemicals.com

P C Review | APRIL 2020 |

31

HOME CARE

Texture – a differentiator to drive convenience

The magic that connects a formulation to its packaging is known as texture. It speaks to the senses and has a strong visual and tactile impact on the consumer. Jacques Strydom, technical manager of AECI Specialty Chemicals discusses how texture can be a differentiator in the home care market.

H

ow many times have you bought

purpose cleaners

a product and had to throw it

• the suspension of encapsulated

away after just a couple of uses

fragrances in laundry liquid

because the pump has broken,

• the suspension of visual cues in various

or the nozzle blocked? How often does your surface cleaner run straight off the surface before getting a chance to wipe it? These common inconveniences have to do with texture, specifically concepts like pseudo-plastic rheology behaviour and vertical cling.

product applications.

With Acusol 880/882

Commercial benchmark

AECI Specialty Chemicals offers rheology modifiers for any home care application, including dishwashing liquid, liquid laundry detergents, fabric softeners and more

products perform exceptionally well in thickening multi-purpose cleaners and suspending the abrasive particles, which

Rheology modifiers like Acusol 882 and

More than 30% of home care products

Acusol 880 from Dow solve this problem

launched in the last 12 months carry a claim

by lending vertical cling properties to a

related to convenience such as ‘ease of use’

formulation, helping the product to stick to

or ‘cleaning on the go’ (Mintel, Sept 2019).

the surface for a longer contact time. The

Consumers are no longer satisfied with

pseudo-plastic or shear thinning behaviour

products that simply do the job; they want

of these polymers allow the formulation to

products to be convenient and easy to use.

be viscous within the container and to thin when force from a pump, actuator or nozzle is applied. This helps to dispense the product with ease and prevents blockage. After dispensing, the product re-thickens, allowing it to cling to surfaces.

Similarly, AECI Specialty Chemicals can offer rheology modifiers for any home care application, including dishwashing liquid,

Vertical cling

Dow’s Acusol 820 and Acusol 823

liquid laundry detergents, fabric softeners and more.

When using bathroom and kitchen cleaners, consumers often let the product rest after

Particle suspension

applying and before wiping, to maximise the

In home care applications, particle

cleaning efficiency. Yet, when the surface is

suspension is relevant for various

vertical, gravity will work against the product,

reasons, including:

causing it to run and resulting in frustration.

• the suspension of abrasives in multi-

Laundry liquid formulated with and without an encapsulated fragrance. Test method: washing machine Miele W377 (1h12) @ 40˚C, 1 400rpm. The olfactive test was performed on wet towels and after line drying and storing them in a box

would otherwise sink to the bottom of the bottle. Similarly, products such as Acusol Millenium ER will suspend visual cues or encapsulated fragrances in laundry liquids, offering the benefit of long-lasting freshness while lending the required viscous flowing properties. •

AECI Specialty Chemicals – jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com Dow – www.dow.com

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32

| APRIL 2020 | P C Review

HOME CARE

No mess, no fuss bio-based cleaning technology Are you interested in developing a product with exceptional household and industrial cleaning applications that meets the demands for effective yet eco-friendly cleaning? Steposol Citri-Met surpasses the cleaning power of products containing up to 40% petroleum-based solvents.

It is supplied fully blended and ready for dilution.

S

teposol Citri-Met from Stepan

concentrated solutions produce stronger

ink without damaging the coating

Company is a revolutionary fully

products for the industrial market.

on the surface.

Effective in various applications

Stepan Company recommends starting

chemistry, ecologically responsible citrus

This extraordinary, eco-friendly technological

with a more dilute system and increasing

terpenes and emulsifiers. Diluted to a solution

breakthrough is suitable for use in a variety

the concentration as needed to achieve

of 96% water, Steposol Citri-Met promises

of applications. For example, a carpet or

the minimum dilution required for cleaning.

exceptional cleaning benefits and removes

upholstery cleaner requires a 1:14 dilution

Some surfaces are more sensitive to high

the need for complicated mixing and

to create a product ideal for removing dirt,

concentrations, such as porous materials,

chemical formulations.

coffee, wine, grass, blood, ink and pet stains.

rubber, latex and coated surfaces. Dilutions

formulated solution consisting of Nobel Prize-winning metathesis

This patent-pending technology has a

When using Steposol Citri-Met,

A 1:32 dilution is suitable to create a

low VOC of just 0.5% at a 1:14 dilution level.

kitchen degreaser that is effective on

The active ingredients are derived from bio-

moderately soiled or oil-soiled surfaces such

based sources to give it a greener profile.

as a stove top.

Various dilutions can produce products for

of 1:14 and greater are safe for most surfaces.

Steposol Citri-Met is available locally from Millchem. â&#x20AC;˘

Steposol Citri-Met is even effective in

the home market which clean glass, carpet

removing permanent ink or marker stains. A

and multiple surfaces, and remove stains

1:14 dilution is suitable to produce a cleaning

left by tar and permanent markers. More

product that can remove permanent

Millchem â&#x20AC;&#x201C; www.millchem.co.za Stepan Company â&#x20AC;&#x201C; www.stepan.com

P C Review | APRIL 2020 |

33

HOME CARE

New climate friendly detergent polymer

In Clariant’s new soil release polymer for laundry detergents, the ingredient supplier has combined best-in-class fibre protection against dirt with outstanding sustainability benefits.

This innovative detergent polymer is known as TexCare SRN 260.

U

nlike all other soil release polymers in the laundry detergent

segment which are synthetically sourced, TexCare SRN 260 Life is bio-based and has an 80% renewable carbon index (RCI).

According to Clariant, a leading supplier of

DID YOU KNOW?

says Clariant’s head of strategic marketing and innovation, Ralf Zerrer. “With its carbon and

bio-based credentials, According to a market we developed TexCare report from Research and SRN 260 Life to meet Markets, the global household the growing consumer green cleaning products market demand for more is expected to grow at a CAGR environmentally friendly of 6.50 percent, rising from US$ products. Indeed, 17.90 billion in 2017 to US$ recent forecasts expect 27.83 billion by the the ‘green’ segment of the end of 2024.

sustainable ingredients and solutions for the industrial and

industrial and home care sector to grow by 6.5% until at least 2024.”

home care cleaning segment, this makes TexCare SRN 260 more sustainable than

Non-ionic with broad tolerance

any other soil release polymer used in liquid

In addition to its improved eco-friendly

detergents and cleaners.

properties, in laboratory tests, fabrics

“This latest addition to our TexCare

washed with TexCare SRN 260 Life, a top

THE BENEFITS OF TEXCARE SRN 260 LIFE • protects clothes by preventing soil from penetrating deep into the fabric • produces a soil release effect in the next wash • helps remove stains in the first wash • maintains whiteness of clothes even after multiple washes • soil release performance allows a reduction in washing temperature, detergent concentration and mechanical action, helping to protect fabrics • 80% renewable carbon index.

TexCare SRN 260 Life is a non-ionic and

range gives the producers of liquid laundry

performing soil release polymer, were six

bio-based soil release polymer for liquid

detergents, particularly green oriented

times cleaner than those washed with

detergents and cleaners. Due to its non-

brands, a unique soil release polymer,”

detergent only.

ionic character, the detergent polymer

Clariant’s new soil release polymer also prevented the redeposition of dirt during

1

exhibits a broad tolerance to the most common surfactant systems. •

washing, which is the main culprit for greying. This prevention measure was almost two times more effective than a standard detergent alone.

Clariant – www.clariant.com

3

2

1: Clariant’s TexCare SRN 260 Life is bio based with superior fibre protection 2: The detergent polymer washes clothes up to six times cleaner than detergent only 3: It delivers brighter whites

34

| APRIL 2020 | P C Review

SAFETY & HYGIENE

Plant hygiene – a vital part of the production process AECI Specialty Chemicals can assist customers with expert recommendations when it comes to maintaining hygiene standards in a production facility.

Microbiologist Davina Pillay highlights why hygiene audits are necessary in cosmetics manufacturing.

H

ygiene within a production

Sources of contamination

facility is a critical factor

Raw materials can be tested before use to determine the initial level of

in controlling and

microbial contamination.

limiting microbial

A decision can then

contamination

be made to use the

of the finished product. Microbial

raw materials as is,

contamination can

or whether further

cause a finished

treatment is needed

product to be

to remove microbial

swabs of the surfaces of various

compromised in

contamination. This

equipment, of raw materials and

terms of texture,

is also dependent on

intermediaries used in production,

appearance

the production

and smell.

process as some

Certain microbes

processes may inadvertently

are hazardous

kill off any microbes present.

to human health.

The equipment used in

For example, E. coli can cause nausea

manufacturing is also considered

and vomiting, Staphylococcus aureus and some yeasts can cause skin infections and certain moulds and the

a source of microbial

DID YOU KNOW?

contamination.

Cleaning protocols

before and after cleaning protocols and of the production personnel.

The swabs are usually tested for the total bacterial count, which gives an indication of the levels of microbial contamination. The swabs can also be tested for specific microbes.

Contact agar plates and dip slides with selective agar media can also be

for manufacturing Consistent cleaning and disinfection with spores they produce can equipment and the biocides are among the cause skin allergies. fundamental preconditions actual equipment for modern and GMPIdeally, products used to clean should compliant hygiene should be manufactured be monitored to standards in cosmetics manufacturing. in a production facility that ensure that microbial

used to take samples. The selective

adheres to and complies

of the hygiene conditions within a

with strict hygiene practices.

While this may not always be

contamination does not spread to different sections of the production process.

possible, there are methods that can be used to monitor hygiene levels within a production facility.

These include: • monitoring of the

agar media will grow specific types of micro-organisms.

Value-added service A hygiene audit provides a snapshot plant at the time of the audit. It also assists with monitoring and controlling microbial contamination across the

Reduce risk through audits Hygiene audits are a way of monitoring

production plant and with ensuring good product quality.

Hygiene auditing is a value-added service offered by AECI Specialty

hygiene practices

Chemicals to customers when they

raw materials used

on site. The aim of

purchase biocides. As part of the

to formulate and

a hygiene audit

service, advice is given by an expert

produce products

is to identify any

microbiologist in terms of sanitisation

potential problem

measures and how to control

• monitoring the manufacturing and cleaning equipment • monitoring packaging equipment and the actual packaging containing the finished products.

areas as well as the processes that

contamination in the customer’s manufacturing plant. •

are effective. A hygiene audit is performed by taking swabs of various points throughout a production facility. These include

AECI Specialty Chemicals – jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com

P C Review | APRIL 2020 |

35

STUDENT FOCUS

The butterfly effect The winner of this year’s Coschem training in cosmetic science/ P C Review essay prize is Rone Rudman. To acknowledge Rudman’s achievement, an adapted version of her essay is published in this student focus and she has received a prize sponsored by industry magazine.

T

ake a minute to comprehend

A study by Stanford scientist, Caroline

Considering the importance

this. If the DNA of a living

Haskins, has proven that only 30% of our

of epigenetics and that it can be

organism is constant and, if you

DNA determines how our natural immune

implemented to change gene

had a pet caterpillar named

system changes and ages over time.

expressions, it’s a very appropriate topic

Gene, what would cause Gene to

The rest depends on our environment,

for skin care research and development

shapeshift into a butterfly? The answer is

directly linked to the decision-making

and it has a lot of potential to grow.

epigenetics – a biological field of study

process of our epigenetics. This includes

honoured with a Nobel prize in 2006 for

the environment of the cell, which is

showed that 45% of adult consumers

its discovery.

controlled from within the body, nutrition

would entrust in a scientific test to

wise, and externally by the products we

determine what products are best suited

apply on our skin.

to their needs, rather than carrying

Epigenetics is taking the skin care market towards more personalised

A study conducted by EpigenCare

the consequences of choosing the

offerings. It’s more of a total advancement than just an industry

A relevant R&D topic

wrong skin care products. Therefore,

trend. As explained by Smitha Rao,

We are all exposed to different

a personalised skin care solution is

vice president, product development

environmental aggressors such as

definitely worth exploring.

and regulatory affairs at StriVectin,

UV rays, air pollution, high stress

epigenetics is the science that connects

levels, bad sleep quality, varied water

and EpigenCare are working towards

lifestyle and its impact on ageing – it

consumption, diet, lifestyle choices and

– a direct-to-customer approach.

studies the ability to reverse or modify

blue light.

EpigenCare’s goal is to make epigenetic

the body’s ageing.

Our cells experience these various

This is what companies like Skintelli

science available to everyone and

environments differently, resulting in

practical to use – not only for the

explained in the epidermis, where the

our unique skin functionality. This is not

consumer, but also the entire cosmetics

basal cell layer proliferates cells that form

just because of the genetic differences

industry. These kinds of companies gather

the different epidermal stratum layers.

in our DNA, but also because of the

loads and loads of data on epigenetic

This cycle of skin cell proliferation and

environmentally influenced epigenetics

targeted sequencing that help identify

cornification shows how the keratinocyte

of our DNA, leading to the need for

epigenetic markers including ageing,

phenotype and gene expression change.

different skin care solutions.

pigmentation, firmness and elasticity,

Basic epigenetics in the skin can be

36

| APRIL 2020 | P C Review

STUDENT FOCUS moisture retention, DNA damage and

protection against the negative impacts of

their ingredients have been tested on

repair, cell regeneration, oxidation

air pollution on the skin.

laboratory scale, using, for example

and anti-oxidation, and sensitivity

This strategy of formulation is very

rates where change did manifest in its

response. The more epigenetic marker

successful in keeping with the epigenetic

epigenetics like a change in hair colour

data collected, the more informed the

trend, while targeting antipollution and

, these effects will take a number of

cosmetics industry becomes on market

natural ingredients promotion.

years to show the actual affect in human

needs. A more informed industry will result

Other ingredients suppliers seem

application. These kinds of claims can also

in the development of more advanced

to be reverting to nature and natural

tread on the fine line between permanent

and targeted cosmetic products, making

phenomena more and more, such as

and temporary change by cosmetic

for very satisfied consumers and a win-

Mibelle Biochemistry, which has studied

products. If the change is permanent,

win marketing strategy for all.

the epigenetic reprograming of a normal

the product would be considered

bee into a queen bee, giving her longevity.

pharmaceutical with many more

Knowledge is power

The company found a protein called

formulation rules and regulations.

It seems like the beauty industry will need

royalactin delayed the ageing process

to brush up on biology and DNA as most

and increased longevity in insects. In

influence the environment of the skin, it

of the existing skin care products were not

mammalian cells, cells proliferate faster,

always has and always will have an effect

designed with epigenetic mechanisms in

increasing skin turnover instead of the

on epigenetics. For now, it is just the actual

mind. Yet these products still contribute

decreased proliferation associated with

mechanism that is not clear.

to the environment of a skin cell. This will

increased ageing effects. This natural

have an obvious effect on the skin cell’s

gem can be used to promote epigenetic

A young science

epigenetic mechanisms with varying

mechanisms in the skin to fight ageing.

The science of epigenetic mechanism

phenotype manifestations.

Even though product formulations and choice of raw materials were rather based on chemical properties, like soothing properties of colloidal oatmeal and moisturising properties of hyaluronic acid, they still have a place in the epigenetic market. The trick is to figure out which ingredients perform on an epigenetic level.

Active ingredients and their

Epigenetics is taking the skin care market towards more personalised offerings The epigenetic scientific study of

But as cosmetic products definitely do

will give rise to many more active ingredients. The testing thereof will hopefully produce reliable results based on human trials over extended periods of time. With the combined use of AI and cosmeceuticals, the epigenetic activities of ingredients and epigenetic targeted sequencing data from DNA, will expand and refine diagnostic and solution processes for both the consumer and the cosmetics industry.

inclusion levels in products are used

royalactin saw Mibelle Biochemistry

to create indexed logs by companies

develop RoyalEpigen P5, which promotes

to environmental factors, etc. will

like EpigenCare. This, along with the

epigenetic mechanisms in the skin

always influence the cellular function

mountain of epigenetic targeted

specially designed to delay the skin

epigenome of the skin. Just taking

sequencing data recovered from all

ageing process. This natural protein had

air pollution into account in our ever-

the DNA samples, opens the cosmetics

to be stabilised in the form of a biologically

changing world, the environment of the

market to the incorporation of AI. An

active peptide mimicking royalactin,

future may be totally different. Yet with

AI system has the capacity to interpret

in order for it to be used in skin care

the expanding science of epigenetics, a

mass data in less time and with more

formulations. For such a raw material to

solution will always be in sight.

accuracy, making it more profitable

be effective on an epigenetic scale, it has

when compared to human processing.

to be carried into the cell. To increase the

much, the science is still young. This

This will significantly improve diagnostic

absorption of such raw materials, it can be

is just the start – let’s watch this space

processes of consumer skin concerns,

encapsulated in a transporting system, like

transform from a caterpillar into a

pointing them in the right direction of a

a soft sphere carrier system based on shea

beautiful butterfly. •

personalised skin care regime, and it will

butter as is the case with RoyalEpigen P5.

assist in formulation considerations.

The more informed the industry

Ageing, lifestyle, diet and exposure

Even though we already know so

Skin care products based on epigenetics have been on the market since 2007, when

becomes, the more targeted the

L’Oréal established the trademark Lancôme

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

design of products can become. This,

Epigenetic Cosmetic. Another popular

Roné Rudman is a

coupled with other trending formulation

name is Estée Lauder with its Re-Nutriv

junior lab chemist at

considerations, are advantageous.

Ultimate Lift Age Correcting Collection

SkinChem where she

range. It’s interesting to note that the

is mainly responsible

Inspired by epigenetics

product’s claim of epigenetic influence on

for batch clearances and stability

Ashland offers epigenetic focused active

the skin is still quite vague – as it claims to

testing. Rudman has a degree in

ingredient named Elixiance, derived from

be inspired by epigenetics, or the science

chemical engineering, which she

the Peruvian pink pepper tree from Peru.

thereof, without too many details.

acquired in 2016 from the University

The technology is based on the microRNA epigenetics associated with barrier

This is due to the fact that even

of Potchefstroom.

though some of these products and

P C Review | APRIL 2020 |

37

Tea time TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive

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| APRIL 2020 | P C Review

Solution

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