ETHNIC CARE / SPONSORED CONTENT
Hyperpigmentation:
a challenge for high melanin content phototypes Skin pigmentation is an international concern. Using Sepiwhite™ MSH and Sepicalm™ VG WP in combination, Seppic demonstrates that these two active ingredients from its Wesource portfolio meet a primary need of darker skin tones – addressing hyperpigmentation.
C
hronological or photoinduced ageing, hormonal
Figure 1: Mechanism of action of Sepiwhite™ MSH
MSH on the MC1R receptor lead to the upstream inhibition of melanogenesis.
disorders (contraceptives,
Complementary tests also demonstrated
pregnancy and menopause,
a downstream inhibition of melanogenesis
etc.), repeated exposure to the sun, and
(see Figure 1), making Sepiwhite™ MSH a
reactions to irritation or inflammation (skin
multi-target lightening agent. In vitro tests were conducted on
healing, acne or the side-effects of medical treatments), lead to the appearance of skin
melanocytes to assess the performance
pigmentary problems.
of Sepiwhite™ MSH on basal and stressinduced conditions. In basal conditions,
Melanogenesis disorders are common in people of colour (phototypes IV to VI).
Sepiwhite™ demonstrated a 66% reduction
These disorders are among the top five
in intracellular melanin production, higher
most common dermatologic diagnoses
than arbutin, kojic acid and magnesium
in individuals of African descent. A recent
ascorbyl phosphate. Even though
study conducted in Durban, KwaZulu-
Sepiwhite™ MSH demonstrated a similar
Natal, noted that dyschromias are the third
melanin reduction level in UVB-induced conditions (66%), it showed the best
most common dermatologic diagnosis in the area. The most common subtypes
factor in the regulation of skin pigmentation.
reduction in Îą-MSH-induced conditions
of pigmentary disorders include (in order
It acts to stimulate melanogenesis via a
(145%), higher than all other benchmarks,
of frequency) vitiligo, post-inflammatory
type 1 membrane receptor, MC1R. Studies
including hydroquinone. The results show
hyperpigmentation and melasma1.
conducted on human skin have shown that
Sepiwhite™ MSH demonstrates extremely
subcutaneous injection of Îą-MSH induced
good tolerance and no phototoxicity.
Stress-induced hyperpigmentation,
Sepiwhite™ MSH was also tested in vivo
due either to UV and/or inflammation, is
hyperpigmentation. The Îą-MSH is increased
an important challenge of high melanin
both in hyperpigmented areas and in
at 2% on different phototypes, ranging from
content phototypes. The demand for even-
areas exposed to UV radiation. A study also
II to V. A first study on phototypes II and III
tone skin makes it an unavoidable topic
revealed that melanogenesis in melasma
(Caucasian women), demonstrated the
for the cosmetics industry. Hydroquinone
involves epithelial secretion of ι-MSH².
prevention of spots on tanned skin and
was used originally and showed very
The MC1R receptors, activated by
good whitening performance. However,
Îą-MSH and its analogues, are inhibited by
the toxicological profile of the molecule
AGRPs (Agouti-related protein), natural
has resulted in it being forbidden in many
antagonists present in skin. These proteins
countries. Other molecules such as arbutin,
have a phenylalanine amino acid in a key
kojic acid and vitamin derivatives are now
position which plays an essential role in
used as safer alternatives in even tone and
binding to MC1R receptors, leading to an
brightening products. Wesource by Seppic,
inhibition of melanogenesis.
represented locally by CJP Chemicals, offers
In light of these findings, SepiwhiteTM
two products with original mechanisms
MSH was developed as a highly purified
of action which not only focus on basal
lipo-amino-acid (Aminovector™), based on
pigmentation but also on stress-induced
phenylalanine. The mechanism of action
melanogenesis, meeting the needs of skin
of Sepiwhite™ MSH relies on its biomimetic
of colour.
composition and structure. The purified
the increase of skin luminosity. A second study performed on phototypes III and IV
Figure 2: Sepicalm™ VG WP increases MIC1 gene expression (of BMP protein family, which disturbs the Wnt pathway)
> : ; 8'< =
1
has a high affinity with the MC1R receptor
Melanocortin, or alpha-Melanocyte-
and competes with its natural ligands.
Stimulating Hormone (Îą-MSH) is a major
The antagonist properties of Sepiwhiteâ&#x201E;˘
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| APRIL 2020 | P C Review
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undecylenoyl phenylalanine molecule
SepiwhiteTM MSH
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