ETHNIC CARE
Skinarch and the art of building collagen In diversity, we can find a common element that unites us. This is the beauty of skin architecture and the inherent biotensegrity of all biological structures. Skinarch by LipoTrue is a novel peptide that enables cosmetics to fully explore the disruptive trend of inclusive beauty and to celebrate the differences of all skin types.
T
he peptide Skinarch (INCI:
presence of the peptide
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-72 Amide)
was performed using a
allows brands to embrace
turbidity test (phases
the inclusive beauty trend by
determined according
addressing two common features in
to fibrillogenesis
all ethnicities – skin architecture and
reference curve).
tensegrity. Tensegrity is key for collagen fibres and only a good network formation ensures it. The peptide increases Mohawk, a novel key player in the field of cosmetics, which may be considered the architect of the skin, promoting the formation of
0.001mg/mℓ, 0.005mg/mℓ and 0.01mg/mℓ of the
DID YOU KNOW? LipoTrue is focused on obtaining
peptide for 48 hours. Significant increases of 11%, 17% and 41%
respectively, were advanced active ingredients observed versus through cutting-edge technological platforms. Each technological artificially aged the basal control. platform has its own specialised human skin explants Turbidity tests R&D team, which is coordinated to (sourced from a showed that the offer a solid portfolio of premium active ingredients, both in 54-year-old), were peptide was able to efficacy and innovative treated with the peptide increase the velocity concepts. Young and
for 10 days to evaluate
and the amount
new and well-organised collagen I and
collagen quality, density and
III fibres, together with collagen VI, for a
the amount thereof; as well as the
proper biotensegrity which counteracts
fibre thickness and organisation by TEM;
solution, in a dose-response manner,
collagen fibril degeneration as we age.
and conventional dye binding.
as observed with 0.01mg/mℓ and
Skinarch also works on the four collagen
of spontaneous fibrils formation in a collagen
0.04mg/mℓ of the peptide.
families: fibrillar collagens; connecting
In vitro and ex vivo results
The evaluation of collagen quality,
and anchoring collagens; network-
Using NGS, the Mohawk homeobox
density, amount, thickness and quantity
forming collagens and collagen-like
gene was found, amongst others, to be
and organisation of fibres evaluated with
membrane proteins.
upregulated 1.32-fold. This was validated
TEM, showed the peptide was able to
via the Mohawk protein expression with a
improve those attributes, rejuvenating
skin architecture to fight against wrinkles
significant increase of 31%, 51% and 81%
the skin’s architecture by 10 years
and sagging has been proven in a varied
versus the placebo in a dose-response
(see Figure 2).
panel of volunteers with light-pigmented
manner at 0.001mg/mℓ, 0.005mg/mℓ
(phototype II to III) and dark-pigmented
and 0.01mg/mℓ of Skinarch.
The inclusive efficacy of Skinarch on
(phototype V to VI) skin. Results showed
The qPCR demonstrated an
Skinarch reduces crow’s feet wrinkles and
upregulation of the fold change in the
roughness on the cheek area for both
genes of the skin collagen families,
types of the phototype. The novel peptide
such as fibrillar (1.16 COL3, 1.18 COL5),
also had an innovative restructuring and
connecting (1.16 COL6, 1.45 COL7, 1.70
firming effect on the face architecture.
COL12, 1.38 COL14), networking (1.17
Figure 1: Immunofluorescence F-actin (in red) and Mohawk (in green)
COL4) and collagen-like membrane
Methods In the fibroblasts, a qPCR evaluated
proteins (1.20 COL13). Since the Col6A1 gene is involved in
gene expression related to the four main
the fibrillogenesis of type I collagen, an
collagen families: fibrillar collagens;
increase in protein levels was observed
connecting collagens; network collagens
after incubation in the fibroblasts with
and collagen-like membrane proteins. Thereafter, an Elisa test was performed in the fibroblasts to evaluate the increase of the protein levels of two main
Figure 2: TEM analysis of younger skin (54-year-old skin explant, hOSECs) and aged skin (hOSECs skin explant treated with 5µg/mL hydrocortisone for 5 days, equivalent to a 68-year-old explant). The aged skin was treated daily for 10 days with a cream containing 1% Skinarch
upregulated genes – Mohawk and collagen VI. Immunofluorescence was used to confirm the localisation of Mohawk (nucleus), being the newly identified protein (transcription factor). See Figure 1. The study of spontaneous collagen fibril formation in the absence or
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| APRIL 2020 | P C Review
Younger skin
Aged skin
Aged skin + placebo
Aged skin + 1% Skinarch
