ETHNIC CARE
The natural efficacy of jojoba oil is proven to
improve skin’s complexion Vantage answers the question why jojoba oil is such a popular ingredient for beauty products by reviewing a new set of studies that looks at the effect of jojoba oil in different applications, including skin, hair and lip care. The studies involved in vitro and in vivo testing and multiple consumer panels.
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ojoba oil’s popularity is driven by its versatility in the cosmetics industry. From skin care to makeup or hair care, there isn’t a single category where the natural oil cannot be found in significant proportions. Considering that jojoba oil tends to be more
2. the pathogenic bacteria, whose proliferation tends to negatively impact our skin health. Commensal and pathogenic bacteria generally co-exist in a balanced manner. But multiple factors are likely to break the delicate balance
expensive than most mainstream oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil or castor oil, it begs the question: why are formulators keen on using it in so many formulations?
found in a healthy microbiome: diet; genetic predisposition; age; hygiene and lifestyle are only some of them. Situations where pathogenic bacteria overwhelm commensal bacteria are usually associated with drier and more sensitised skin conditions. The technical team at Vantage designed an in vitro experiment where Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus were selected and cultivated to respectively represent commensal and pathogenic bacteria. After an initial incubation period of 18 hours followed by a 48-hour treatment period with jojoba oil, the number of bacteria was measured via photometry (see Figure 1). The measurements reveal that jojoba oil favours the growth of the commensal bacteria compared to the non-treated culture.
REBALANCING SKIN MICROBIOTA The skin is a complex and dynamic ecosystem that is inhabited by bacteria, archaea, fungi and viruses. These microbes are collectively referred to as the skin microbiome. Consumers and formulators continue to recognise the importance of the microbiome to understand overall skin health. By promoting a healthy microbiome, cosmetic products can lead to a better, protected skin. A large variety of skin conditions, ranging from acne to eczema, have been associated with changes in the skin microbiome. Microbiologists tend to categorise our skin bacteria in two categories: 1. the commensal bacteria that live in harmony with our skin cells and biological cycles
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WHAT DOES IT MEAN FOR SKIN? Most people suffering from dry or unhealthy skin conditions are likely to have a microbiome characterised by an excessive pathogenic
Did you know?
In the satisfaction survey, 83% of the panellists agreed their skin looked smoother, 97% said their skin felt comfortable and 83% said their complexion was more even.
bacteria presence compared to commensal bacteria. By boosting the growth of ‘good’ bacteria, jojoba oil can contribute to rebalancing the skin microbiome. Additional gene expression studies, not detailed in this article, further confirmed the positive effect of jojoba oil on skin radiance and skin comfort.
FROM THE MICROBIOME TO SKIN’S COMPLEXION To confirm the efficacy of jojoba oil on consumers’ skin, the team worked with an independent testing facility, which recruited a 60-person panel, of both men and women. For this blind study, the volunteers were split in two groups. One group was instructed to apply a 10% jojoba oil o/w formulation twice daily, while the other group was given a placebo formulation, where jojoba oil was replaced by caprylic/capric triglyceride. Over the course of four weeks, several instrumental measurements were made at 14 and 28 days to assess the quantity of sebum on the surface of the skin and skin radiance. The results are shown in Figure 2 A and B. The jojoba oil-based regimen led to a 25% decrease of sebum content. Overall, skin radiance increased by 24%. The results demonstrated statistical significance. The jojoba oil-based formulation outperformed the caprylic/capric triglyceride for all measured parameters, confirming the positive effect of the natural oil over other traditional emollients. The clinical evaluations were concluded with a satisfaction survey, where panellists
