ASSOCIATION NEWS
What’s hot in hair care, brought to you by Coschem The Society of Cosmetic Chemists kicked off its schedule of virtual events for 2021 with a multi-day hair carethemed seminar, which took place on 23, 24 and 25 February.
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ith hair care being a relevant and hot topic in the global cosmetics industry, the seminar presentations covered an array of areas pertinent to the category. Scalp care, increased diversity among brands and revitalising claims are some of the biggest trends in the hair care market. In South Africa, the market is projected to increase at a CAGR of 5.7% from 2020 to 2025, while the global market is expected to reach $211.1bn in value by 2025, according to a new report by Grand View Research.
DAY ONE The opening session included a personal account by Simonne Solarsh of IntrinsiCurly Me on the adventures of establishing her curly hair brand – IntrinsiCurly Me. Simonne outlined her product development journey and the challenges she faced entering the personal care market. Charis Lewis of Investchem reviewed specifics relating to hair loss, hair thinning, alopecia, effluvium and balding. The final presentation on day one was centred on the scalp microbiome and how to rebalance the bacterial ecosystem. Kim MacCallum of Vantage Speciality Chemicals reviewed some interesting findings on how a reduction in P. acnes is related to an increase in dandruff. She also spoke about the bacterial biofilm and how to rebalance it using anti-adhesion technology.
DAY TWO Coschem was honoured to include a number of presentations by international specialists on day two of the virtual hair care seminar. Cédric Pety de Thozée of Ajinomoto (Belgium) opened the session on day two with a presentation entitled Amino Acids in Hair Care. He illustrated the topic by focussing on the amino shampoo trend in Asia, showing the benefits of amino acid-derived surfactants and amino acid supplements in hair care formulations.
Day two also included a dynamic overview of New Dyestuffs and Unique Colour Results by Jonathan Wood of KAO (Germany) followed by an interesting and entertaining review by Perry Romanowski of Element 44 (USA) on Formulating Better Hair Care Products. Romanowski’s presentation provided attendees with a strategy for improving the performance of their products. Caroline Cochrane and Zane Xulu of The Care Co. discussed going natural in hair care. With the world moving more and more towards sustainability, an increasing number of consumers are opting for natural products and hair care is no different. This shift in consumer thinking has seen manufacturers omitting chemicals from their formulations in favour of a more natural approach. From water dispersible butters in shampoos to hydrolysed wheat protein in conditioners, there are a number of natural alternatives that one can consider for their hair care routine. Grey hair reversal and recovering one’s natural hair colour were discussed by Zodwa Ndebele of Orkila – an Azelis company. Zodwa reminded us that although grey hair is inevitable, it can now be reversed. The Orchem duo, Kgomotso Gwangwa and Lesego Malepe, outlined ways to care for hair, which included a discussion on hair cleansing and grooming. The final presentation on day two included an insightful overview of the trials and triumphs of semi-permanent hair colours by Patricia
Vesque (Paris) and Nicola Barnard-Marais of Sensient Technologies.
DAY THREE The final session hosted on 25 February was opened by Anele Ntuli of Croda. Anele reviewed a vegan alternative to animal derived keratin. Ronald Makola of Amka Products focussed on black hair care matters during and post the pandemic, with a specific focus on the salon industry and ‘new normal’ marketing interventions. Sapphirah Phala of BASF reviewed ethnic hair care trends and presented some insights into sub-Saharan African trends. The closing presentation by Yashmay Gordhon of CTFA was centred on cosmetic regulations specific to hair care. This was a crucial presentation as cosmetic regulations are the foundation of any successful product. Members were reminded about claim substantiation and labelling requirements. • Coschem – www.coschem.co.za
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2021
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