Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review February 2022 by New Media B2B

FEBRUARY 2022 Volume 49 | Number 2

years www.pharmacos.co.za

Bridging the gap between chemical and natural ingredients

COMPLETE TRACEABILITY OF CANNABIS

More than a legality in pharma

2020/21 NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

Meet the four overall winners

THE SKINIFICATION OF HAIR

Actives ingredients for advanced care

February 2022

Contents

49 years

Volume 49 | Number 2 www.pharmacos.co.za

40 Packaging: Inspection & Detection Solutions to prioritise patient safety and traceability requirements

8 6 New Product Competition

36 18 Sun Care

30 Hair Care

UV filters and the hot debate of consumer and environmental safety

Ashland launches a sustainable texturising technology

Efficient, eco-friendly sun protection with polyurethane film formers

How to feed hair back to beauty with superfoods

24 Pharma Focus: Cannabis

Nutrinvent Balance, a vegansuitable hair care innovation

Nouryon opens a biodegradable chelates production facility

Afriplex implements the Cultrax traceability system

The rise of ingestible health supplements in hair care

Solutions to track medical cannabis from seed to sale

12 Preservatives

How to solve cannabinoid formulation challenges with lipid excipients

Solvay launches biodegradable guar ingredients

A celebration of the 2020/21 winners

9 News Pfizer acquires a medical cannabis R&D company Henkel celebrates 70 years in South Africa

Sharon Laboratories fills the natural preservation gap

Chemyunion investigates the “skinification of hair”

On the cover CJP Chemicals bridges the gap between chemical and natural ingredients

Mintel explores megatrends impacting global consumer markets Affordable modern product protection solutions from Symrise

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FEBRUARY 2022

FROM THE EDITOR

The team EDITORIAL

EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za

to the New Product Competition winners

&C Review February is our celebration issue! After hosting the 2020/21 New Product Competition Awards virtually towards the end of last year, we now bring you an overview of the brands and their products that won as well as the highlights of our event, which included two fantastic international guest speakers. Sponsored by Symrise, the 2020/21 event saw the introduction of a re-energised New Production Competition that was relevant to all market segments of the industry. This was made possible through Symrise’s leadership and guidance, which helped the P&C Review team to introduce four new categories in which corresponding entries would be judged. The response to the new P&C Review + Symrise New Product Competition was nothing short of amazing. We received 36 entries and four of them were named overall winners in their categories. A further 16 certificates of recognition were awarded to various entries during the virtual event. You can read more about the New Product Competition Awards on page 6. CJP Chemicals is featured on our cover to showcase the solutions it offers for the preservation of personal care products. Preservatives are a fundamental part of a formula, because they protect the safety of the consumer and ensure the quality of a finished product. Product protection and consumer safety are discussed in detail in our preservatives feature. Turn to page 12 to find out more about this.

In our pharma focus on page 23, we unpack the latest developments in medical cannabis with a central focus on trackand-trace systems. Currently, one of the hottest topics is cannabis traceability. The more cannabis is added to pharmaceuticals and health supplements, the more the traceability of products and their ingredients becomes an important factor in a supplier’s operations. Moving into the lab, away from cultivation, cannabinoid molecules can be tricky to formulate with due to their physico-chemical properties. Yet help is at hand from the experts at Gattefossé, who share an interesting article on how to solve cannabinoid formulation challenges using lipid excipients. Turn to page 26 for more info. If you’re looking for new hair care ingredients and formulation technologies, look no further than page 30. Our bumper hair care feature brings you all you need for this category, from sustainable and biodegradable rheology modifiers to active ingredients conceptualised around the “skinification of hair” trend. Stay safe and enjoy the read!

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

FEBRUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

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Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

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PRO-PLAS EXPO 2022

NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

Celebrating the 2020/21 winners

On 17 November, the winners of the 2020/21 Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review + Symrise New Product Competition were annouced. Without the strength and resilience of the local cosmetics industry, this competition would not be possible. In this article we celebrate the winners and look back at what was a truly remarkable and engaging virtual event. By Abby Vorster

n each of the four New Product Competition categories, we honoured an overall winner as well as the entries that scored the highest in formulation design, online presence including social media and digital marketing, packaging, and regulatory compliance. Over 90 guests attended the virtual event, which was hosted by P&C Review and Symrise on Flock’s Remo platform. Two international guest speakers joined us for the event to share their expertise and market knowledge with the attendees. Based in Paris, France, Anne Cabotin, Symrise senior vice president, global consumer fragrance, spoke about caring for the wellbeing of tomorrow’s consumer with hygieSym, Symrise’s new intensive hygiene programme. She also discussed the inclusive strategy of the Symrise perfumery school, which has earmarked Africa and China as key markets for strengthening its diversity. From Barcelona, Spain, Eva Toribio, regional marketing manager for Europe, Middle East and Africa for Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients, shared a fascinating presentation on emerging opportunities in the skin care category, taking a look future prospects and the new behaviours and needs of consumers.

Eva Toribio, regional marketing manager for Europe, Middle East and Africa, Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients

MASSTIGE CATEGORY OVERALL WINNER The overall winner in the Masstige Category was Innoxa Vegan Skin Care entered by i-Bloom Solutions. The judges said: “As a range it excels! Given the price point of the products, these formulations are exceptionally innovative and well put together. The range is diverse and answers to a wide variety of consumer needs.” Mirande Rossouw, marketing manager of i-Bloom Solutions, had this to say about their win: “It is extremely rewarding for the team to see all their hard work recognised on the Innoxa Vegan Skincare brand. It is also an honour for the i-Bloom group to be able

Anne Cabotin, Symrise senior vice president, global consumer fragrance

FEBRUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

to endorse this beautiful new brand with such a prestigious award, as we know that we were competing against the ‘best’ brands in the industry. As we continue to market this brand and meet with media partners later in the year, we will most certainly be shouting out about winning these awards to add further credibility to the Innoxa brand with our consumers and the media.”

MASSTIGE CATEGORY CERTIFICATE WINNERS Bio-Oil Skincare Oil (Natural) entered by Evo Labs was awarded the certificate for Best Formulation Design. The judges said: “The absence of mineral oil and the interesting combination of natural oils hits the mark. The use of many newer or uncommon oils shows that the R&D team searched extensively for the right oils for this natural formulation.” The certificate for Best Online Presence including Social Media and Digital Marketing went to Hold Me Baby Curly Hair Gel entered by IntrinsiCurly Me. The judges said: “The product hits the target market’s sore points spot on! There is the perfect mix of product/ brand content; reviews; hair examples; and informative snippets in this brand’s digital marketing strategy.” Innoxa Vegan Skin Care received the certificate for Best Packaging. The judges said: “Lovely components, good soft-feel packaging (ranging from tubes and caps to bottles and cartons. Great use of graphics with good colour tone. All the packaging is well decorated to very high standards and has good tamper evident features be it labels, seals etc.” The certificate for Best Regulatory Compliance was awarded to Playboy Signature Collection entered by Amka Products. Entries in the masstige category are priced between R100 and R299.

NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

Shower to Shower Sensitive, overall winner in the Mass Category and winner of the certificates for Best Formulation Design, Best Online Presence Including Social Media and Digital Marketing, Best Packaging and Best Regulatory Compliance

Claire Bowen, Shower to Shower brand manager

Jack Kruger, fragrance marketing manager at Amka

MASS CATEGORY OVERALL WINNER

Innoxa Vegan Skin Care, overall winner in the Masstige Category and winner of the certificate for Best Packaging

PRIVÉ LABEL CATEGORY OVERALL WINNER RDT Dimanzi EDP for Men entered by Dimanzi was named the overall winner in the Privé Label Category. The judges said: “As a returning entrant, this brand has included components based on previous competition feedback – well done! The use of a humectant or moisturising ingredient is innovative in the fragrance market.” Di Thompson, founder of Dimanzi and Nathalie Lodone, brand manager, said they are especially delighted to have won the Privé Label Category award plus the compliance certificate. “As you are aware, our RDT was created in honour of my late son Rowan Thompson, who was the direct inspiration behind the

entered by The Biomedical Emporium. The judges said: “Great use of stellar actives. The immediate and long-term efficacy are spot on.” Skin Solutions skincare range was honoured with the certificate for Best Online Presence Including Social Media and Digital Marketing. The judges said: “The range is promoted well on the brand’s website”. The certificate for Best Packaging was awarded to Woolworths Cuticle Oil. The judges said: “The product versus packaging choice is good. The dispensing pen or wand performs well with the product, offering the quality dispensing expected from this brand.” RDT Dimanzi EDP for Men received the certificate for Best Regulatory Compliance. Entries in this category are not defined by price, but rather by the fact that they are developed or produced on the basis of ‘private label’.

Dimanzi Brand,” said Di. “Rowan’s belief that there are no short cuts to anywhere worth going is reflected in the compliancy of the fragrance from the beginning to the end, along with our ethos of attention to detail in every element, including the story, packaging, fragrance and the overall vision.” Nathalie and Di believe winning this award gives Dimanzi an edge in the market going forward. “This is such a prestigious award. We already compete with the international players in men’s fragrance, so we are super proud.”

PRIVÉ LABEL CATEGORY CERTIFICATE WINNERS The certificate for Best Formulation Design was awarded to Diamond Hyaluron Filler

The overall winner was awarded to Shower to Shower Sensitive Range entered by Amka Products. Considering the price point, this entry scored particularly well in all areas. Shower to Shower Sensitive Range was also honoured with the certificates for Best Formulation Design, Best Online Presence Including Social Media and Digital Marketing, Best Packaging and Best Regulatory Compliance. The judges said: “The deodorising active is innovative. For the mass market, the objective is achieved well. The range looks great with good quality packaging choices. Overall, the packaging lives together well as a range and the colour use is good.” Jack Kruger, fragrance marketing manager at Amka, commented: “The Sensitive range augments the line-up of Shower to Shower products and addresses a very prominent skin condition in our market. We’re honoured to have been acknowledged for Best Formulation Design, Best Online Presence Including Social Media and Digital Marketing, Best Packaging and Best Regulatory Compliance. This award bolsters the offering with even more marketplace credibility. Thanks to the judges of the 2020/21 Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review + Symrise New Product Competition.” Mohamed Kalla, fragrance general manager at Amka, added: “Winning this award was a wonderful morale booster for the entire Amka fragrance team, at the

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FEBRUARY 2022

NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

end of a particularly tough eighteen months in South Africa. My congratulations goes to the entire team at Shower to Shower on this prestigious award.” Entries in the Mass Category are priced below R99.

PRESTIGE CATEGORY OVERALL WINNER Wildflower Water-Cream entered by Skin Creamery was named the overall winner in the Prestige Category. The judges said: “A beautifully unique product that screams to the natural-loving communities. Stunning full package with such a great point of difference. Using Acmelia flower is really innovative and different. A lovely combination of formulation ingredients, well matched to the price point.”

"It is important to have platforms where brands can showcase their products and gain recognition for excellence" Daniala Santos de Canha Melman, chief operating officer of Skin Creamery commented: “We are always so incredibly proud when we win an award. It gives us the opportunity to celebrate our brand and our achievements as a team. It is important to have platforms where brands can showcase their products and gain recognition for excellence. Consumers trust expert opinions and so having our product judged by industry experts and winning a category really helps to build confidence in our brand.”

Di Thompson and Nathalie Lodone of Dimanzi

PRESTIGE CATEGORY CERTIFICATE WINNERS The Nimue Skin Hydration Range entered by Ascendis Health was awarded the certificate for Best Formulation Design. The judges said: “These formulations amount to a holistic strategy for hydration. They are well thought through and brilliantly executed. The multitargeted approach using the different types of HAs and delivery systems is visionary.” The certificate for Best Regulatory Compliance was awarded to Ethereal Parfum entered by Beverley Claire. Environ Focus Care Comfort+ Anti-Pollution Spritz

Skin Creamery is a South African brand run by an all-women team

FEBRUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

and Masque won the certificate for Best Packaging. The judges said: “Excellent choice of packaging, which fits the prestige bill. Well decorated, lovely secondary packaging with good finishes.” Skin Creamery was also honoured with the certificate for Best Online Presence Including Social Media and Digital Marketing. The judges said: “Beautifully curated social media content following a sound strategy. Stunning website user experience.” • Congratulations to all the winners and thank you to Symrise, the sponsor of the competition.

Skin Creamery’s Wildflower Water-Cream, overall winner in the Prestige Category and winner of the certificate for Best Online Presence Including Social Media and Digital Marketing

NEWS

Pfizer acquires medical cannabis business Arena Pharmaceuticals The announcement from Pfizer

associated with

regarding the acquisition of Arena

gastrointestinal disorders.”

Pharmaceuticals for $100 per share

BASF invests in reliable production and capacity expansion

The acquisition displays the

is the latest case of big pharma

interest big pharma is taking

embracing cannabinoid-based

in the fast-evolving world

research, according to the Medical

of cannabinoids.

Cannabis and Wellness UCITS ETF.

Butt adds: “We are encouraged

The acquisition is also an example

by the acquisition as it provides

of the huge growth potential of the

more resources and a wider

medical cannabis sector and how it

platform for pharmaceutical

is becoming more mainstream.

development of cannabinoids.

Nawan Butt, portfolio

Overall, this transaction is in

manager of the Medical

line Pfizer’s long-term focus on

Cannabis and Wellness UCITS

innovative research and a great win

At its Ludwigshafen Verbund site, BASF is to fundamentally

ETF, said: “The main driver of

for our investors.”

modernise the entire infrastructure, including the facilities for the

the acquisition is lead asset

production of chloroformates and acid chlorides.

Etrasimod, which is being

Wellness UCITS ETF was the first

The company is investing a low three-digit million euro amount

The Medical Cannabis and

developed for the treatment of

ETF to give access to the medical

in this project. The measures, which will be completed in the course

ulcerative colitis and Crohn’s

cannabis space in Europe. As of

of 2025, will increase the BASF’s on-site capacity to produce these

Disease. Etrasimod is currently

12 December 2021, it had $32mn

products by around 30%.

in late-stage development.

in AUM. The ETF provides access

Arena Pharmaceuticals is also

to companies active in the medical

chloroformates, acid chlorides and alkyl chlorides, with a current

developing a cannabinoid type 2

cannabis arena which have been

annual capacity of 60 000 metric tons, as well as production

receptor antagonist, as it paves

screened to ensure their legality for

facilities at its sites in Ludwigshafen, Germany, and Yeosu, Korea.

the way in cannabinoid research

investment across Europe and can

with a focus on visceral pain

be bought in a single trade.

BASF is one of the world’s leading manufacturers of

“With our investment project we prove our long-term commitment to these high-value specialty products,” said Frank Stein, head of the regional business unit Europe in BASF’s Intermediates division. “As a leading producer in this field, we want to continue to reliably support our customers' growth with a state-of-the-art infrastructure.” BASF sells around 30 individual products from the group of chloroformates, acid chlorides and alkyl chlorides. Customers use the chemicals for further processing in a wide range of applications, ranging from synthesis building blocks for pharmaceuticals and crop protection products to the production of organic peroxides. Peroxides prove their worth in the production of coating materials used, for example, to coat solar panels. They are also used in the production of a wide range of plastics for everyday use.

• Core focus is dissemination of scientific information • Cosmetic Science Course • Membership

Connecting People & Cosmetics

• Scientific conference, seminars and training • Networking • Industry vacancies • Affiliated to IFSCC www.coschem.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FEBRUARY 2022

NEWS

Henkel celebrates 70 years in South Africa Over the past seven decades, Henkel

Henkel South Africa is a subsidiary of

South Africa has grown to become a

Henkel AG & Co. The company is a century-

integral role in the economic, community

market leader in the local adhesives and

old German business that grew to become

and skills development of South Africa,

beauty care markets, with brands like

a successful multinational present in more

thanks to our role in growing broader

Pritt, Pattex, Loctite and Schwarzkopf

than 100 markets. From a family business

value chains and eco-systems through the

now part of the fabric of everyday life for

founded in 1876 to 145 years of success,

diversity of solutions we deliver.”

millions of people.

Henkel operates globally with a well-

“We have aimed throughout to play an

In 2004, Henkel South Africa launched

balanced and diversified portfolio. The

Schwarzkopf Professional, followed

company holds leading positions with its

by Indola in 2006, which saw Henkel

three business units Adhesive Technologies, Laundry & Home Care and Beauty Care. As a recognised leader in sustainability,

South Africa enter the professional beauty industry. In 2006, Henkel signed their first Broad-Based Black Economic

Henkel holds top positions in many

Empowerment partners on – Vuya

international indices and rankings. Henkel

Investments. In 2013, the business

employs more than 53 000 people globally.

expanded into the local ethnic hair care

This highly diverse team is united by

industry with the acquisition of Ladine,

a strong company culture, a common purpose and shared values. In terms of the South African market, Henkel entered the country in 1951

which in turn saw Henkel open the first Henkel Beauty Care R&D lab in South Africa in 2015. As for the future, Henkel will continue

with the business focus being the

to innovate and bring South African

laundry sector. After 70 years, the

consumers the high quality that is

company continues to go from

expected from its brands, such as the

strength to strength.

recently relaunched, new-generation Pritt

Dominik Anderhofstadt, CFO

stick offering improved sustainability

for Henkel South Africa, says its

with an optimised formulation containing

support and confidence in South

97% natural ingredients, and the

Africa’s growth and potential have

innovative No More Nails product, under

never waned.

the Pattex brand.

Nouryon establishes a new biodegradable chelates production facility To meet increasing global demand for

Dissolvine GL or GLDA (Glutamic acid, N,N-

innovative and sustainable chelates for

diacetic tetrasodium salt) and other essential

home care applications, Nouryon recently

ingredients to a variety of multinational and

established a new production facility in

regional customers. The site will complement

Herkenbosch, Netherlands, with completion

the company’s existing plants in Ningbo,

expected in the second quarter of 2022.

China and Ohio, USA.

“Nouryon continues to prioritise

site is driven by the growing demand for eco-

which offer high renewable content

friendly solutions in the auto dishwashing and

without sacrificing performance,” says

liquid laundry markets,” comments Suzanne

Larry Ryan, executive vice president and

Carroll, vice president of home and personal

president, performance formulations and

care at Nouryon. “This new facility supports

the Americas at Nouryon. “As strategic

our broad product portfolio of readily

markets for Nouryon, home and personal

biodegradable chelates and will strengthen

care are seeing a big shift in demand from

our global footprint to supply customers in

traditional petroleum-based solutions to

Asia, Europe and North America.”

biodegradable options and we have the

“The commissioning of this new production

investments in sustainable solutions,

Nouryon is a leading producer of high-

Dissolvine chelating products are designed to enhance the performance of household cleaners and auto dishwashing and liquid laundry detergents

global manufacturing footprint to support

performing, biodegradable chelates

laundry detergents, household cleaners, as

the demand.”

worldwide. Dissolvine chelating products are

well as industrial and institutional cleaning

The new production facility will double

derived from natural, renewable sources and

products, Dissolvine chelating products

the company’s Dissolvine green chelates

are readily biodegradable, offering a superior

serve as an essential builder in detergent

capacity by supplying Dissolvine M or MGDA

ecological profile. Designed to enhance the

formulations and replace phosphates

(Methylglycine N,N-diacetic trisodium salt),

performance of auto-dishwashing, liquid

without compromising performance.

FEBRUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

DIARY

What’s on in 2022 March Propak Africa 8 to 11 March Joburg Expo Centre, South Africa www.propakafrica.co.za Cosmoprof Worldwide 10 to 14 March Bologna, Italy www.cosmoprof.com/en 20th SAAFFI Seminar & Workshop 15 to 16 March Virtual event hosted in SA www.saaffi.co.za

April in-cosmetics Global 5 to 7 April Paris, France www.in-cosmetics.com/global SAPHEX 6 to 7 April Joburg, South Africa www.saphex.co.za Labelexpo Europe 26 to 29 April Brussels Expo, Belgium www.labelexpo-europe.com

May Propak East Africa 10 to 12 May Nairobi, Kenya www.propakeastafrica.com

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PRESERVATIVES

The beauty of natural and synthetic synergies in personal care preservation

These days, there is an increasing demand for cleaner and greener beauty products. To meet shifting needs, beauty brands are reformulating their product lines. Yet, components that are considered “clean” and “natural” can sometimes be misleading and are not always safe. More clarity and a better understanding of the trends are required, plus the focus of providing safer and more effective solutions should never change, writes Tali Cohen, marketing manager of Sharon Laboratories.

reservatives are a fundamental part of a formula since they ensure the safety of the consumer and the finished product. They inhibit the growth of bacteria, yeast, mould and fungi, even after a product has been opened and exposed to the elements, and during use. Inappropriate preservation of a formula poses serious health risks to the skin. The task formulators must address is choosing a preservative solution that will not only guarantee product safety but also consumer safety. The risk of contamination can be influenced by many factors: product type; where it is stored; and exposure to moisture, heat or humidity. The presence of natural extracts, mud, clay and the water content in a formulation also play a role. A product’s packaging, such as an open jar, may increase the contamination risk when compared to a pump or tube. It is these characteristics that determine the type of contamination threat a product faces, such as gram-negative and -positive bacteria, yeast or mould. A formulator must also take other aspects into consideration such as regulatory updates; impact on odour and colour; compatibility with other ingredients; and the climate in the various regions of sale.

FEBRUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Figure 1: Challenge test results 0.5% SharoSense Plus 181 Natural passes EP and UPS

CURRENT TRENDS AND CHALLENGES Current trends leave formulators with fewer options of preservatives, as they face a rapidly shrinking pool of compounds of interest. Many of the existing preservative solutions are not strong enough to handle the antimicrobial challenge. In this case, there are a number of ways in which formulators can improve the strength or versatility of the preservative. They can raise the level of use, generally to over 1%. Another option is to add additional materials such as a booster, additional

Did you know? Since establishing its first production and R&D centre in 1977, Sharon Laboratories has built a global reputation for developing preservatives and has become a leading supplier in the industry. The accumulated knowledge within the business continues to provide the foundation for developing a wide variety of innovative and highly successful technologies, which provide preservation solutions to the entire personal care industry.

PRESERVATIVES

preservatives or an extract with antimicrobial activity. Adding a chelating agent could also be done, with the use of a combination of all of the above being a further solution. However, all these alternative steps have implications. A higher level of use of a preservative can raise regulatory issues as many materials are permitted for use within a specific limit (like phenoxyethanol or benzyl alcohol at a maximum limit of 1%). In addition, a higher level of use can cause formulation hurdles such as an impact on viscosity, stability, odour and more. Further consequences come from the end-user angle, such as skin sensitivity, and of course, higher cost.

BROAD-SPECTRUM, EFFECTIVE PRESERVATIVE Represented locally by CJP Chemicals, Sharon Laboratories’ mission is to fill the gap between chemical and natural. Sharon Laboratories is a global manufacturer of solutions for preserving and prolonging the shelf life of personal care products. It is an industry leader in the development, production and marketing of preservatives. The company’s research and innovation are based on identifying and utilising the synergistic effects among hand-picked compounds and optimising the use of already authorised compounds. In doing so, Sharon Laboratories set a goal to create a broadspectrum, high-efficacy preservative, which

"With SharoSense Plus 181 Natural, the market now has access to a natural, clean beauty preservative solution" originates from natural compounds but is created in the lab. In the development process, many natural elements were screened for anti-bacterial and anti-fungal activity. Once a certain compound was identified, it was time to turn to the lab to select a synthetic homolog. This approach was fruitful and resulted in the launch of an innovative patented preservative solution, SharoSense PlusTM. SharoSense Plus preservative solution is based on the active ingredient maltol, which was identified as a key ingredient in this concept combined with specific cationic elements. Maltol is a naturally-occurring organic compound. It has an EWG score of 1; is GRAS-approved; found in CoSing, the cosmetic ingredient database of the European

Commission; is highly soluble in water; has clear environmental benefits; and is readily biodegradable.

A SOLUTION FOR SENSITIVE SKIN Skin irritation is a key concern of consumers when it comes to ingredients in cosmetic products. Components that are considered “clean” and “natural” can be misleading. When preserving a formulation, factors causing skin sensitivity need to be explored. It is also important that suppliers better understand the challenges formulators face when preserving products for sensitive skin. Human skin acts as a shield, holding in moisture and keeping out external elements that may cause harm. A sensitive skin barrier is weaker and tends to permit factors that can result in irritation. The face is the most common site of skin sensitivity due to a thinner skin barrier, a much higher density of nerve endings, the number of products applied to the face, and its continued exposure to the environment.

sodium hyaluronate, placing major demands on the preservation solution in terms of compatibility. SharoSense Plus 181 Natural is Sharon Laboratories’ newest addition to its product line, providing formulators with a novel preservative solution based on natural maltol. It is suitable for a wide range of applications, including facial care products containing a high percentage of sodium hyaluronate. SharoSense Plus 181 Natural shows excellent efficacy in products with hyaluronic acid, as shown in the challenge test results in Figure 1. The preservative was tested at a level of use of 0.5%, achieving complete protection against bacteria, yeast and mould. In addition to its natural origin, SharoSense Plus 181 Natural preservative solution offers environmental benefits thanks to its renewable carbon index. In fact 99.3% of the 181-N carbon are renewable and it has a Natural Origin Index ISO16128 of 99.6%. SharoSense Plus 181 Natural is supplied in a powder form which is highly soluble in water. It also supports a minimalistic approach in formulation design, requiring only two components and eliminating the need for a co-solvent or booster, and it is effective at a low level of use.

CONNECTING NATURAL AND SYNTHETIC SOLUTIONS

The industry has struggled to bring efficient alternatives to cater to the needs of sensitive skin. Based on consumer feedback on skin irritation parameters, brands are challenging suppliers of preservative systems to adapt their products in line with sensitivity requirements. Sharon Laboratories put the SharoSense Plus to the test and found it safe for use when applied to sensitive skin and facial areas, including the eyes and lips.

SODIUM HYALURONATE COMPATIBILITY ISSUE One of the most popular ingredients in skin care is hyaluronic acid and there is increasing consumer demand for this ingredient in facial care products. Some formulations can contain up to 20% of

The safety of a naturally-derived ingredient isn’t always guaranteed. Yet, with SharoSense Plus 181 Natural, the market now has access to a natural, clean beauty preservative solution that is proven to provide complete protection against bacteria, yeast and mould. When formulating beauty products, formulators need to take all this into account and search for the right solution to answer all aspects without compromising on product safety, formulation efficacy and compatibility, as well as being safe for use on skin and kind to the environment. Sharon Laboratories has found the link between natural and synthetic is key to filling the gaps of the preservation needs of the personal care industry. While SharoSense Plus with maltol is a start, more options will follow as we turn back to nature for solutions and combine our findings with laboratorybased R&D. • CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Sharon Laboratories – www.sharon-labs.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FEBRUARY 2022

PRESERVATIVES

A key consumer trend in 2022 Mintel, the experts in what consumers want and why, recently revealed three trends set to impact global consumer markets in 2022. These include “in control”, “enjoyment everywhere” and “ethics check”. Dana Macke, director of Mintel Trends, Americas, comments on how the trends were developed, as well as how they will impact markets, brands and consumers in 2022 and beyond.

ooking ahead, Mintel’s trend analysis and prediction research are grounded by observations of the seven trend drivers over the last 18 months and backed by its robust consumer and market data, predictive analytics, action-oriented insights and expert recommendations. “We put everything into context to better understand what it means for – and how it could inspire – our clients’ business decisions across industries, categories and demographics, and amid global themes and

sense of control over every aspect of their lives. But misinformation is making it harder to carry out the necessary research to make informed decisions. Consumers need clarity, transparency, flexibility and options to make decisions that suit their individual changing needs and circumstances. Macke explains: “Brands will need to work harder to deliver reliable information and balance censorship and authenticity. The race for the fastest delivery will evolve to focus on being more flexible, giving

times of uncertainty,” says Macke.

consumers more control over when products arrive to fit around their schedules or to match their other specific needs.”

IN CONTROL Feelings of precariousness and financial insecurity both created and exaggerated by the pandemic mean that consumers are looking for a

ENJOYMENT EVERYWHERE Consumers are seeking sources of joy as the continuing pandemic and other local and global crises have caused them anxiety and stress. Macke says that many consumers may be feeling a kind of “survivor’s guilt” and, as a result, brands are recognising the importance of uplifting people by giving them permission to feel happiness once again. “While the stress caused by the pandemic may no longer be central to consumer needs for fun and escapism, they will continue to seek enjoyment and playfulness. As brand interactions through campaigns, apps and transactions take on more and more gamified elements in response to consumer interest, expect to also see pushback against it and the instant gratification it offers. This tendency will rise from consumers taking a more mindful approach to pleasure and enjoyment,” she adds.

ETHICS CHECK The demand for brands with ethical commitments is evolving.

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Consumers have moved beyond simply wanting brands to “be ethical” and now want to see measurable, transparent and consistent actions from those they choose to support. Consumers will look beyond a brand’s achievements and strengths; businesses will need to be transparent about their weaknesses, too, where and why they fail and how they plan to address these issues in future. “All the transparency in the world doesn’t necessarily help consumers to understand the impact of a brand, which is why it’s key to use metrics that accurately reflect the problems brands are trying to solve. If a company isn’t properly measuring what they aim to fix or change, it’s difficult to determine whether progress is being made, let alone communicate that progress in a way that consumers will understand," concluded Macke. •

Go to www.mintel.com/global-consumer-trends to download your copy of Mintel’s 2022 Global Consumer Trends report.

Product Protection

ALWAYS A STEP AHEAD

A pioneer and leading supplier of modern anti-microbial solutions in the fields of preservatives and multifunctionals. Discover a smart toolbox that offers new possibilities for formulators and fulfills the consumer’s desire for transparency and safety.

PRODUCT PROTECTION BY SYMRISE always inspiring more ... www.symselect.com I www.symrise.com Follow us on Instagram @symrise.ci

PRESERVATIVES

Affordable modern product protection Preservatives used to be an afterthought in the formulation process, yet this is changing. The formulator’s budget traditionally only allows a fraction of the spending to go towards preservatives and other product protection ingredients. Although preservatives are not the most-loved components of personal care products, they are a crucial component for consumer safety and formulation stability. By Dr Sabrina Behnke, senior global product manager, micro protection, Symrise

oday, several trends are further challenging the industry, such as the call for the replacement of some conventional preservatives for various reasons, such as negative press, consumer perception and regulatory changes. However, the need for affordable protection is still a priority for formulators. As the cosmetic ingredient market is shifting to different options to protect formulations from microbial contamination, the search for alternatives has led many companies to explore ingredients known as multi-functionals. Multi-functional ingredients can be mutually beneficial to cosmetic formulations and the consumer, offering moisturisation or antioxidant properties, for example. As a secondary benefit, these molecules also help protect formulations. More and more natural-derived and nature-identical multi-functionals are entering the market, meeting consumers’ needs for more sustainable ingredients. Examples of multi-functional ingredients from Symrise are: • Hydroxyacetophenone (SymSave® H) • Pentylene Glycol (Hydrolite® 5 green) • 1,2-Hexanediol (Hydrolite® 6)

• • • •

1,2-Heptanediol (Hydrolite® 7 green) Caprylyl Glycol (Hydrolite® CG) Glyceryl Caprylate (SymLite® G8) Ethylhexylglycerin (Hydrolex™ E) and their respective blends.

Did you know? SAFETY, EFFICACY AND AFFORDABILITY MATTER When switching to a different preservative or protection system for a formulation, certain expectations of the formulator need to be met. The number one factor will

"Different preservatives and multifunctional ingredients can be combined to create perfectly protected and affordable product protection solutions" 16

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always be efficacy. Every personal care product launched on the market needs to comply with local regulations and is expected to meet existing standards with regard to microbial contamination. Equally as important is consumer safety. Not only does the formulation need to be protected, it must also be suitable and safe for its intended use. Depending on the product type and application, the cost of the protection system may play a major role for the formulator. Modern product protection ingredients are sometimes perceived as more expensive than traditional preservatives. While the ingredients are often used at higher concentrations in formulations and can therefore lead to price increases, it is important to keep

Symrise is a pioneer in the field of multi-functional ingredients. in 1992, it launched the first straight-chain 1,2-Alkanediol (Hydrolite 5) in the cosmetic market. Symrise continues to explore the world of multifunctionals with product developments such as SymSave H and SymDiol 68T, which are antioxidants that support product protection. The newest launch in this category is Hydrolite 7 green.

PRESERVATIVES

Figure 1: Example of a low-cost preservative blend with broad-spectrum activity. 1.0% SymOcide PDO (Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Decylene Glycol) in an O/W emulsion (anionic). From front to back: E.coli, P.aeruginosa, S.aureus, C.albicans, A.brasiliensis

Figure 2: Example of a low-cost combination of multifunctional ingredient together with an organic acid. 0.3% Hydroxyacetophenone (SymSave H) + 0.3% Sodium Benzoate, at pH: 5.3 in an O/W emulsion (anionic). From front to back: E.coli, P.aeruginosa, S.aureus, C.albicans, A.brasiliensis

in mind that product protection is all about making smart choices. As multifunctional ingredients often have multiple benefits, the ingredient list of a product can be reduced significantly – in line with the desire for minimalistic products. Recent consumer studies have shown that consumers associate shorter ingredient lists with safety. If multifunctional ingredients are regarded as a 1:1 replacement for classical preservatives, one misses the multitude of benefits that these modern compounds add to the formula.

THE ADVANTAGES OF MULTI-FUNCTIONALS Depending on the manufacturer’s preference, different preservatives and multifunctional ingredients can be combined to create perfectly protected and affordable product protection solutions. While phenoxyethanol is a very effective and affordable preservative, the multi-functionals caprylyl glycol and decylene glycol are moisturisers and provide additional benefits to consumers (see Figure 1). Decylene glycol has been shown to act against odour-causing organisms and acne bacteria. In this case, sodium benzoate is an affordable preservative option while the multi-functional ingredient hydroxyacetophenone has excellent antioxidant properties, scavenging free radicals and helping to stabilise fragrances in a formulation.

CAN NATURAL OPTIONS BE AFFORDABLE? Today, natural cosmetics and personal care products with sustainability and ethical sourcing claims are trending globally, among consumers and retailers alike. Natural formulations are often perceived to be safer and more health-conscious and allow the consumer to care for themselves while respecting the planet. Yet the use of natural ingredients may lead to an increase of bioavailable nutrients in a formulation, making it more susceptible to microbial growth and contamination. With under-preserved formulations, there is an increased risk of microbial growth. Their shelf-life is also reduced, and they can result in some risk to the consumer. Therefore, natural personal care products need to be sufficiently protected while still fulfilling the desire for naturality.

Figure 3: Example of a low-cost natural combination of a multi-functional ingredient together with an organic acid. 0.3% Glyceryl Caprylate (SymLite® G8) + 0.45% Sodium Benzoate, at pH 5 in an O/W emulsion (anionic). From front to back: E.coli, P.aeruginosa, S.aureus, C.albicans, A.brasiliensis

Examples of nature-derived and nature-identical multi-functionals ingredients from Symrise include: • Hydroxyacetophenone (SymSave® H, nature-identical) • Pentylene Glycol (Hydrolite® 5 green, nature-derived) • 1,2-Heptanediol (Hydrolite® 7 green, nature-derived) • Glyceryl Caprylate (SymLite® G8 nature-derived). Figure 3 shows an example of a natural product protection option. Glyceryl Caprylate can improve the skin feel of cosmetic formulation and helps product protection along with sodium benzoate.

CONCLUSION No matter the challenge a formulator is facing, smart combinations of preservatives and multi-functional ingredients can safely and effectively protect products without breaking the formulation budget. Even the increasing demand for more natural and sustainable options can be met with affordable and nature-derived or natureidentical solutions from the portfolio of preservatives and multifunctional ingredients available from Symrise. •

Symrise – www.symrise.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FEBRUARY 2022

SUN CARE

The great sunscreen cover-up

Sunscreen ingredients and formulations continue to be one of the most hotly debated issues in the cosmetics industry. This is mostly because there are so many conflicting opinions and regulations regarding what is safe for both customers and the environment, depending on where you are in the world and what standards you follow. Add to this the move towards natural, organic and sustainable ingredients and you have fertile ground for confusion and misinformation.

ccording to Robyn Brown, owner of Botanichem and a formulator with more than 30 years’ experience, one of the

realise is that natural alternatives like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are also harmful to reefs. “Just because a UV filter is naturally

biggest challenges facing companies wanting to formulate sunscreens is addressing the perception that organic and natural ingredients are good for the environment and, in particular, our oceans and coral reefs. “All the hype and focus on the harmful effects of sunscreens on coral reefs and other aquatic environments and the subsequent banning of certain ingredients in places like Hawaii, Australia, Florida Keys and a host of other island territories, have forced skin care manufacturers to look at alternative formulations and ingredients,” she explains. However, whilst UV filters and other ingredients including oxybenzone, octinoxate, octocrylene, homosalate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, PABA, parabens and triclosan are all thought to have a negative effect on marine environments, what many do not

sourced does not mean it does not cause damage, is bio-degradable or better for the environment,” says Brown. “Both titanium dioxide and zinc oxide produce hydrogen peroxide when exposed to solar radiation. Hydrogen peroxide is a strong oxidising agent,

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which diminishes the quality of the water. This is one of the main issues affecting the health of coral and other marine life.”

A HOLISTIC APPROACH WITH ECOSUN PASS Formulating sunscreens that meet reef-friendly criteria and are natural and/or organic is essentially impossible at this stage, as the UV filters proven

"Formulating sunscreens that meet reef-friendly criteria … is essentially impossible at this stage"

SUN CARE

to not damage coral reefs and marine life are chemical in composition, and as mentioned, those that are natural, are actually not reef/ ocean safe. It is therefore imperative that the formulator’s choice of raw materials and ingredients used in sunscreens is based on a range of parameters, which determine the impact on the environment rather than speak to broad claims. In 2019, BASF Care Creations introduced EcoSun Pass which addresses the environmental effect of UV filters in a holistic way. The methodology involves a transparent assessment of UV filters based on internationally-recognised criteria and looks at eight different parameters: 1. biodegradation 2. acute aquatic toxicity 3. chronic aquatic toxicity 4. logPow 5. bioaccumulation 6. terrestrial toxicity 7. sediment toxicity 8. endocrine suspicion. By considering all these parameters, it is hoped that more eco-compliant sunscreen formulations can be developed. The EcoSun Pass is calculated on the following: • SPF and UVA-PF value • type of UV filter used in the formulation • quantity of UV filter used. “This kind of holistic approach is what should guide formulators and

formulations going forward,” says Brown. “I also believe that it is worth considering where and what the sunscreen will be used for. A sunscreen product that wants to make the claim of being natural or organic and will mainly be used for inland activities could safely consider using titanium dioxide and zinc oxide as UV filter, whereas a product that will be used for ocean-based activities may have to compromise on the natural claim and choose a UV filter that is environmentally safe.”

THE NANO DEBATE In addition to solving the problem of UV filters that are safe for people and our oceans, are concerns around the dangers of the use of the nano form of titanium dioxide. Nano titanium dioxide has been shown to be carcinogenic if inhaled. This, however, has only been shown to be of concern in airborne particles measuring 10μm or less.

These microscopic particles are generally only present in some aerosol sunscreens, hair colour sprays and cosmetic powders. Sunjin Beauty Science supplies both nano and non-nano titanium dioxide, which comply with European and American regulations and are COSMOS- and ECOCERT-approved. Zinc oxide has faced similar criticism regarding the inhalation dangers; however, it too has been approved for use by both the EU and US authorities with the exception of being used in aerosol sunscreens.

"The bottom line is that sunscreen formulations are not a one-sizefits-all approach" “The bottom line is that sunscreen formulations are not a one-sizefits-all approach. Brand owners and manufacturers need to identify their needs and work carefully with formulators to create products that are fit for purpose, clearly and accurately labelled, and thoroughly tested.” •

Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FEBRUARY 2022

SUN CARE

Achieve efficient, eco-friendly sun protection with polyurethane film formers Clean beauty accelerates the demand for safer, more effective and ocean-friendly sun care formulations. Although they play a crucial part in skin protection, sunscreen products have come into focus for their potentially negative impact on marine life. With Covestro’s Baycusan® biodegradable film formers, it is possible to reduce the environmental impact of sun care products without minimising the skin protection and water resistance benefits.

he sun care category is no stranger to the clean beauty movement, which has led to the ban of various UV filters and resulted in a wakeup call for the industry. Manufacturers and brand owners now have to rethink their sun care formulations to find the best tradeoff between performance and reduced environmental impact. Sun protection factor (SPF) boosters help formulators design sun care products with fewer UV filters, thereby minimising the environmental impact of the finished products. Simultaneously, SPF boosters ensure effective and long-term protection.

CHALLENGES OF SUSTAINABLE UV FILTERS What is considered a “more sustainable UV filter”? Some consider inorganic filters a more sustainable option, yet they have a downside. Inorganic filters make it more difficult to achieve high sun protection in a formulation with a pleasing skin feel. This is why there is an increased demand for modern organic UV filters with a better environmental profile. The latest research on the environmental impact of organic UV filters shows that it is possible to select filters with the lowest impact. The preferred filters are: • Ethylhexyl salicilate (EHS) • Ethylhexyl triazone (EHT) • Tri-bisphenyl-triazine (TBPT) • Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT) • Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) • Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB) • Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (PBSA) • Diethylhexyl butamido triazone (DBT).

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Filters such as Octocrylene (OCR), Benzophenone-3 (BP-3) and Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) tend to have a negative image because they have reportedly been associated with reef bleaching. This discussion has since been met with regulations like the Hawaiian Ban, which has placed new requirements on sun care products. In the past, UV filters like OCR or OMC were popular, as formulating without them appeared difficult. The solubilisation of crystalline UV filters was more troublesome because the heating time took longer and required higher temperatures. With a concentration limitation of max. 5% to 10% of today’s preferred UV filters, it became challenging to achieve high SPF values (SPF 50 and 50+) without relying on SPF boosters. Reaching the right UVA protection also poses a challenge as the options of oceanfriendly UVA filters on the market are limited. These UVA and broadband filters need to be employed to a full extent to achieve high protection formulations that are compliant with sun care regulations.

Salt tolerance is a critical ingredient attribute in sun care formulations. Both Baycusan C 1000 and C 1004 tolerate sodium chloride in basic solutions up to 0.5%, with Baycusan C 1004 showing slightly higher salt tolerance in formulations with an increased level of electrolytes.

COMPATIBLE WITH OIL-BASED ORGANIC FILTERS The key attribute of Baycusan is its SPF boosting effect. When combined with EHT, DHB or DHHB and BEMT, especially with a 200% increase, in vivo SPF values are higher compared to the same formulation without Baycusan (see Figure 1). This helps achieve high sun protection while reducing the amount of UV filters.

BAYCUSAN IN SUN CARE FORMULATIONS Film formers from the Baycusan line can be a problem solver when formulating sun care products that are more ocean-friendly. They impart outstanding SPF-boosting and water-resistance properties in various systems. All Baycusan film formers can be considered non-persistent (OECD 302 inherent biodegradability). Both Baycusan C 1000 and C 1004 achieve biodegradability rates between 50% and 60% within 28 days (OECD 301 ready biodegradability).

Figure 1

Baycusan C 1000 polymer also enables more water-resistant formulations, ensuring high protection and preventing UV filter dispersion in the sea. For maximum water resistance, the emulsifier concentration needs to be as low as possible so as to avoid re-emulsification of the formulation when exposed to water. Baycusan film formers help stabilise the emulsion, acting as co-emulsifiers. In an emulsion with very little emulsifier, 83.2% of

SUN CARE

the SPF can be retained after 40 minutes of immersion (see Figure 2).

In a study on a formulation containing mostly ocean-friendly ingredients (see Figure 3), the well-known SPF

boosting properties of PBSA in combination with oily UV filters is demonstrated – 1.5 wt.% PBSA increases the SPF value to 48%. The addition of 6 wt.% Baycusan C 1004 (as supplied) in this formulation increases the SPF boosting to 137%, enabling SPF 50+ claims (see Figure 4).

Figure 2

ORGANIC WATER-SOLUBLE UV FILTERS Launched in 1934, the water-soluble UVB filter phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (PBSA) has rarely been used over the years due to its limited applicability (need for neutralisation) and the potential for formula disturbance (because of its water solubility). Lately, PBSA has, however, been deemed eco-friendly by NGOs thanks to its good ecotoxicity profile. This makes the UV filter more appealing to anyone seeking sustainable formulations.

"The key attribute of Baycusan is its SPF boosting effect"

Figure 3

Figure 4

»Protects your body, protects the ocean« Durable & ocean-friendly sun protection

Regardless of their crucial contribution to skin protection, sun screen products have come into focus for their impact on marine life – a challenge for the industry. How can we formulate long-lasting UV ray protection without posing a risk to the environment? Rethink formulation that protects both your body and the ocean – with film formers by Baycusan®. They have a good biodegradability profile and impart SPF boosting as well as water-resistance with modern, more eco-friendly UV filters. Less UV filters are released to the ocean – for a better trade-off between performance and environmental compatibility. Beauty Made Responsible.

cosmetics.covestro.com

Distributed by

SAVANNAH FINE CHEMICALS (PTY) LTD

info@savannah.co.za | www.savannah.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FEBRUARY 2022

SUN CARE

IN COMBINATION WITH INORGANIC UV FILTERS The formulation stability with 2% of several titanium dioxide grades was also tested. A test formulation (see Figure 3) without PBSA was used to determine which Titanium Dioxide grade can be used to increase the SPF value. Stable formulations were obtained with the following grades: • Eusolex T-Avo (Titanium Dioxide (and) Silica) • Micro Titanium Dioxide MT-100 WP (Titanium Dioxide (and) Hydrated Silica) • Micro Titanium Dioxide MT 200 ST (Titanium Dioxide (and) Stearic Acid).

"The addition of film formers increases the percentage of water resistance, maintaining 61% to 67% of SPF after immersion" The highest in vivo SPF results and water resistance were achieved with Eusolex T-Avo and are shown respectively in Figure 5 and Figure 6. The addition of 2% Titanium Dioxide showed an SPF increase of 42%. Thanks to Baycusan in combination with the selected UV filters, the respective SPF boosting of 165% and 150% was achieved for Baycusan C 1000 and C 1004. The formulations tested, which contain Baycusan C 1000 or 1004 film former and Titanium Dioxide, are all waterresistant. The formulation without film formers passed the 50% level only slightly. Therefore, the addition of film formers increases the percentage of water resistance, maintaining 61% to 67% of SPF after immersion.

CONCLUSION Covestro has shown that Baycusan film formers can unlock high performance, enhanced ocean-friendliness and an improved biodegradability profile in sun care formulations. Where organic UV filters are used in formulations, Baycusan SPF boosting helped achieve high SPF values while reducing the amount of UV filters required. The outstanding water resistance of a sun care formula containing Baycusan film formers also supports

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Figure 5

high and long-term protection, while reducing the amount of UV filters released into the ocean. This holds true even for formulations with PBSA – lately proven to have a good ecotoxicity profile – or inorganic filters, like Titanium Dioxide. Either way, Baycusan film formers, available locally from Savannah Fine Chemicals, enable formulators to design sun care products with high SPF values and less impact on the environment. • Figure 6

Covestro – www.cosmetics.covestro.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

SPONSORED CONTENT

Complete cannabis traceability from seed to shelf Afriplex has positioned itself in the forefront of cannabis cultivation, research, and development in South Africa. An achievement made possible by the successful implementation of the Cultrax® traceability system and close collaboration with the CRI. The system allows for comprehensive data tracking for a better understanding of product quality metrics, stability, shelf life and potential contamination.

The major advantage for cultivators is the integration with the quality management systems of Afriplex which allows seamless data tracking throughout the value chain, from seed to shelf. This comes at a crucial time as local and international demand is increasing and more stringent control is required from international customers.

AFRIPLEX IMPLEMENTS CULTRAX®

he Cultrax® system was specifically developed by the Cannabis Research Institute of South Africa (CRI) to match the requirements of the South African cultivator as set out by the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA), and international bodies such as the International Narcotics Control Board (INCB). Besides compliancy, Cultrax® provides the cultivator with basic enterprise resource planning (ERP) functionality to streamline business functions at a reasonable price. The extensive seed-to-shelf cannabis tracking system allows licensed operators to remain compliant while helping to identify key data points to streamline and optimise inventory management at each phase of the operation, cultivation, processing, destruction and waste, transportation and lab testing. The system has individual functionality for each aspect of the process including planting, cloning,

info@afriplex.co.za www.afriplex.co.za

growing, harvesting, drying, packing and waste control. These are just a few of the benefits of the early adoption of Good Manufacturing Practices, in addition to Good Agricultural and Cultivation Practices in the cultivation phase of manufacturing herbal medicinal substances and herbal products.

A LEADING SOLUTION FOR CULTIVATORS Stefan Nel, Project Manager at Cultrax®, comments: “We expect most cultivators in South Africa to utilise Cultrax® in the near future. Our development team is working on extending Cultrax® to upload environmental data directly from facilities to allow for complete oversight of the cultivation process. Appropriate data collection will be key for maintaining a competitive advantage by allowing for better decision making through each step of the cultivation process.”

info@cannabisresearchinstitute.co.za info@cutrax.com www.cannabisresearchinstitute.co.za www.cultrax.com

Afriplex is a quality and solution driven company that utilises high-quality cannabis from its Good Agricultural Practice approved cultivation facilities. The Cultrax® trackand-trace system used by Afriplex does not start or end at the primary manufacturing facility. It extends from the cultivators to the delivery of final products, ensuring the finest quality throughout the process.

" We expect most cultivators in South Africa to utilise Cultrax® in the near future" Afriplex is also home to the dedicated cannabis testing laboratory of the CRI. As a member of the CRI, Afriplex is paving the way in novel cannabis research projects in collaboration with various local and international research institutions. A prerequisite of the CRI is that all supply chain stakeholders, from cultivators to final product manufacturers, successfully implement the Cultrax® traceability system. Afriplex is committed to maintain leadership in the cannabis economy by investing in research and development and state-of-theart processing and analytical infrastructure. For more information, send an email to the Cultrax® team on info@cultrax.com. • WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FEBRUARY 2022

PHARMA FOCUS: CANNABIS

Tracking cannabis from seed to sale

Are you on top of the track-and-trace needs of your medicinal cannabis business? There are many considerations for emerging businesses in the cannabis industry, such as watching your supply chain and the way your products move from seed to sale. The standards and regulations are also tricky to navigate.

n South Africa, permits and licenses to produce and sell cannabis are currently onerous and legal advice is necessary to participate in this sector. Local market growth has also sparked the need for increased traceability of cannabis and hemp ingredients. The more cannabis is added to pharmaceuticals and beauty products, the more aspects such as chain of custody and the traceability of products become important factors in a supplier’s operations.

"A track-and-trace system should provide strain information and performance data" Cannabis traceability means noting the serial and lot numbers and plant ID to trace a batch back to the specific strain. In addition, data on the weight, health and growing conditions are required for each plant or group of plants in the growing stages throughout their lifecycle. This data is required before you even get to the point of tracing the cannabis along other points in the supply chain.

FEBRUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

A track-and-trace system should also provide strain information and performance data while ensuring that the packing weight is consistent.

EFFECTIVE TECHNOLOGIES FOR COMPLETE TRACEBILITY Pairing UIDs to products along their supply chain journey will further protect your business and provide you with the trackand-trace insights and supply chain visibility you require to follow plants from growth and distribution to sale. Yet, this is not without its challenges. Providing complete seed-to-sale traceability has created a demand for effective technologies that can ensure everyone involved – including growers, manufacturers, processors and dispensaries – can or will meet existing regulatory requirements. Software from Mitas Corporation can help commercial cannabis growers track every gram of cannabis throughout the lifecycle from seed to delivery to the manufacturer, resulting in increased visibility across all supply chain levels, ultimately ensuring the accountability of growers, processors and producers of finished products.

Once the seedlings are ready to be transferred from the tray to the field, unique polypropylene RFID tags are attached which are specially designed for tree and plant inventory, maintenance and tracking. These tags are customisable with QR log and serial numbers. Each tag is linked to a plant in a tray and refers to the specific strain that connects the individual plant to a particular row within a specific field, so different strains can be planted in the same field.

MONITORING THE ENTIRE FARM Tracking cannabis is not the only solution Mitas Corporation can offer commercial medicinal cannabis growers.

PHARMA FOCUS: CANNABIS

With the CIJ plant passport solution, a barcode is printed directly onto the individual seed trays

With the use of its Internet of Things precision farming management solution, the quality and quantity of cannabis products can be increased by monitoring the entire farm, which in turn provides data on pH, moisture and humidity levels. This data can help to lower the number of waste plants processed during harvesting. With the CIJ plant passport solution, a barcode is printed directly onto the individual seed trays. The udaFORMAXX offline solution allows for a plant passport to be printed offline, easily and quickly, on stock cards, plant labels or cardboard labels. Printing a barcode onto the trays gives the traceability of the seed planted in the tray. This solution is easily integrated into a production line and shows the time and date when the seedling was planted, the strain, how many seeds are in a tray, and the tray’s location.

process without mixing strains. Strain information is also recorded by using a mobile handheld RFID reader to scan the RFID tags on the individual plants. When buds are trimmed and sorted, size samples are taken for testing and anything under a specific weight becomes a retention sample. Mitas Corporation can also trace the produce and not the packaging by applying DNA barcodes during regular processing, providing the only onfood safety solution. Vacuum-sealed bags are weighed and coded by either labelling or using CIJ or thermal inkjet printers to print lot codes, ingredients etc. The products are then boxed. The company also has solutions to assist with high-level inventory and warehousing. And if cannabis is processed into capsules, logos, a best-before date and any other alphanumerical codes can be engraved directly onto the capsules themselves. •

NEXT-LEVEL SOLUTIONS Unique polypropylene RFID tags are specially designed for tree and plant inventory

During the harvesting process, traceability makes cannabis easier to

Mitas Corporation – www.mitascorp.com

Are You on Top of Track n Trace solutions for Your Medicinal Cannabis Business? Our software can help commercial Cannabis growers track every gram of Cannabis throughout the lifecycle from seed to delivery to the manufacturers, resulting in an increase in transparency across all supply chain levels, thus ensuring accountability from growers, processors, and producers of the final product.

Contact TracePack to find out how our tracking solutions can legitimise your business. +27 10 020 7221

www.tracepack.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FEBRUARY 2022

PHARMA FOCUS: CANNABIS

Cannabinoid molecules and their love of lipid excipients The generic term “cannabinoids” refers to different active pharmaceutical ingredients, the most popular being cannabidiol (CBD) which is non-psychoactive, and delta-9 tetrahydroxy cannabinol (THC) with psychoactive properties. With rapidly evolving regulations in many countries, a boom in cannabinoid products is observed. However, due to their physico-chemical properties, these molecules are very difficult to formulate. This article showcases how lipid excipients can solve cannabinoid formulation challenges with a particular focus on oral and topical dosage forms.

annabinoids cumulate many drawbacks such as low aqueous solubility, oxidation and temperature sensitivity, and high first-pass metabolism.1 Although cannabinoids have extremely low aqueous solubility and high lipophilicity (LogP around 6 to 8), they also have exceptional solubility in lipid excipients as shown in Table 1. Therefore, with lipid excipients, solubility is not a limitation.

"Although formulating with cannabinoids can be highly challenging, it is possible to overcome the various hurdles using lipid excipients" These molecules are prone to oxidation; consequently, minimising the incorporation of air while mixing and adding antioxidants are compulsory to prevent molecule degradation. Because they are also extremely sensitive to temperature, cannabinoids must be handled and stored at the lowest temperature possible to stop them from being broken down.

FEBRUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Table 1: Solubility of CBD and THC in lipid excipients (expressed in mg/mL for liquid excipients and mg/g for semi-solid or solid excipients)

Excipient tradename

Chemical name

Capryol® 90

Propylene glycol monocaprylate (Type II, monoesters >90%) NF

Gelucire® 44/14

CBD (mg/mL or mg/g)

THC (mg/mL or mg/g)

548

496

Lauroyl macrogol-32 glycerides EP Lauroyl polyoxyl-32 glycerides NF

>255

125

Gelucire® 48/16

PEG-32 stearate (type I) NF / EP pending

>300

>500

Labrafac™ Lipophile WL 1349

Triglycerides medium-chain EP Medium-chain triglycerides NF

410

421

Labrafac® MC60

Glycerol monocaprylocaprate (type I) EP Glyceryl monocaprylocaprate (Type I) NF

418

496

Labrafac™ PG

Propylene glycol dicaprylocaprate EP Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate NF

506

> 500

Labrafil® M 1944 CS

Oleoyl macrogol-6 glycerides EP Oleoyl polyoxyl-6 glycerides NF

421

454

Labrasol® Labrasol® ALF

Caprylocaproyl macrogol-8 glycerides EP Caprylocaproyl polyoxyl-8 glycerides NF

588

422

Lauroglycol™ FCC

Propylene glycol monolaurate (Type I, monoesters >45%) EP / NF

471

477

Maisine® CC

Glycerol monolinoleate EP Glyceryl monolinoleate NF

338

>500

Plurol® Oleique CC 497

Polyglyceryl-3 dioleate NF

Transcutol® P Transcutol® HP

Highly purified diethylene glycol monoethyl ether EP/NF

USP descriptor for solubility:

274

>500

>530

434

Very soluble >500 mg/mL

Freely soluble 100-500 mg/mL

PHARMA FOCUS: CANNABIS

Table 2: Pharmacokinetic parameters after single dose oral administration in humans (Adapted from de Prá et al., 2021)

11-OH-THC (2mg)

CBD (40mg) Cmax (ng/mL)

Tmax (h)

AUC0-12h (min*ng/mL)

Cmax (ng/mL)

Tmax (h)

AUC0-12h (min*ng/mL)

MCT

3.495

4.257

11.960

2.449

3.575

6.391

Maisine® CC

6.465

1.591

15.758

7.249

1.999

16.082

SEDDS

6.943

1.683

17.740

6.546

1.953

14.823

Furthermore, due to an extensive firstpass metabolism, their bioavailability is low. However, this can be avoided by targeting the lymphatic pathway with appropriate excipients containing unsaturated long-chain fatty acids. Although formulating with cannabinoids can be highly challenging, it is possible to overcome the various hurdles using lipid excipients.

ORAL FORMULATIONS Tinctures, sublingual sprays and capsules are examples of dosage forms suitable for cannabinoids. However, one major drawback in oral formulations is the low bioavailability of cannabinoids. Using Maisine CC as an oily

vehicle, either alone or in combination with other excipients, to form a self-emulsifying drug delivery system (SEDDS), enables a substantial increase in bioavailability. In a human study, de Prá et al. compared formulations consisting of medium-chain fatty acids (MCT), Maisine CC, rich in longchain fatty acids, and a SEDDS consisting of Maisine CC, polyoxyl castor oil and PEG 400.2 They obtained a significant increase in bioavailability thanks to the use of Maisine CC, both for the oily solution and the SEDDS formulation (see Table 2). Moreover, this excipient is derived from corn oil and has a pleasant taste. It naturally contains antioxidants, contributing to greater stability of the formulation.

Labrafil M 1944 CS is a self-emulsifying excipient, widely used in drops, for example with highly lipophilic vitamin D. Also derived from corn oil, it benefits from the same advantages as Maisine CC when added to an instantaneous dispersion, if the drops need to be diluted in a glass of water before intake.

TOPICAL AND TRANSDERMAL FORMULATIONS Creams or lotions are common dosage forms used for local topical action. To prevent the degradation of cannabinoids in these formulations, careful attention must be paid to the process conditions to ensure molecules are incorporated at temperatures below 60°C.

"Antioxidants should be added to topical and transdermal formulations to ensure their long-term stability" Air incorporation must also be avoided during mixing. Antioxidants should be added to topical and transdermal formulations to ensure their

Represented in South Africa by: Carst & Walker (Pty) Ltd Tel: 011 489 3600 Email: aurora.pakkies@carst.co.za www.carst.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FEBRUARY 2022

PHARMA FOCUS: CANNABIS

Table 3: Example of CBD cream formulation with Tefose 63

Components Phase 1

10.0

Labrafil® M 1944 CS

3.0

Geleol™ Mono and Diglycerides NF

2.0

Dimethicone (100 cp)

3.0

Labrafac™ Lipophile WL 1349

5.0

Preservatives

0.2

Phase 2

Distilled Water

Phase 3

Propylene glycol

5.0

CBD

1.0

Triethanolamine

q.s.

Phase 4 • • • • •

Tefose® 63

Weight (g)

Heat phase 1 and phase 2 to about 80°C. Add phase 1 into phase 2 while stirring. CBD is dissolved in propylene glycol at about 50°C to 55°C. Add phase 3 into the mixture while stirring at about 55°C. Cool down while stirring and adjust pH to 6.0.

FEBRUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

To 100.0

long-term stability. Tefose 63 is a versatile emulsifier suitable for topical dosage forms. An example of a formulation with CBD is included in Table 3. Gels are also common preparations used for skin delivery. The powerful solubiliser Transcutol P is compatible with all types of gelling agents and can be used at a very high concentration in the gel without altering its structure. Bi-gel is an innovative dosage form suitable for lipophilic and hydrophilic drugs. It is known to provide better drug absorption through the skin, providing a pleasant cooling and moisturising effect and with improved spreadability. A key ingredient used in the bi-gel formulation is the brand-new Emulfree Duo. It works as a stabilising agent for the oily phase of the bi-gel and as a PEG-free excipient, processable at room temperature. Transdermal patches are also convenient for the delivery of cannabinoids when long-lasting action is required to alleviate pain. Transcutol P can be used in patches to solubilise and enhance the transdermal delivery of drugs. If you need more information on these solutions to formulate cannabinoids, connect with Gattefossé online by checking out the supplier’s dedicated webpage: https://bit.ly/3u8rSYE. These ingredients are available locally from Carst & Walker, the local agent for Gattefossé. •

REFERENCE: 1. K.M. Nelson, J. Bisson, G. Singh, J.G. Graham, S.-N. Chen, J.B. Friesen, J.L. Dahlin, M. Niemitz, M.A. Walters, G.F. Pauli, The Essential Medicinal Chemistry of Cannabidiol (CBD), J. Med. Chem. 63 (2020) 12137–12155. https://doi.org/10.1021/acs. jmedchem.0c00724. 2. M.A.A. de Prá, R. Vardanega, C.G. Loss, Lipid-based formulations to increase cannabidiol bioavailability: in vitro digestion tests, pre-clinical assessment and clinical trial, Int. J. Pharm. 77 (2021) 121159. https://doi. org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2021.121159.

Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Gattefossé – www.gattefosse.com

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Nothing contained herein “pockets” that can carry the essentially asolid, powder form. •Carrier care formulas “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially ina1606 amanner powder form. •Carrier Anhydrous skin care formulas unique functionality that iscarry particularly suited forin bath powders. “pockets” that can the oils essentially in asolid, solid, powder form.••• Anhydrous •Anhydrous Anhydrous skin care information) forfor the user’s purpose. TheThe safety of any information) forthe theuser’s user’s purpose. The safety of any “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially in a solid, powder form. skin care formulas “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially in a solid, powder form. Anhydrous skin care formulas water it immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils. +52 557895 5261 7895 7895 information) purpose. safety of any shall be construed as granting or extending any license Due to its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH starch is able Recommended applications water it immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils. For more information and sample formulations contact T +52 55 5261 For more information and sample formulations contact “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially in a solid, powder form. • Anhydrous skin care formulas Feature Benefit water it immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils. TT +52 55 5261 Feature Benefit For more information and sample formulations contact “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially in a solid, powder form. • Anhydrous skin care formulas Feature Benefit The processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the formulations described herein has not been established. Due to its unique processing, the NATRASORB BATH starch is able Recommended applications The processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the formulations described herein has not been established. under any patent. The user must determine for itself The processing of NATRASORB starch also renders the • Bath powders formulations described herein has not been established. Central America India Russia The processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also the absorb and carry quantities of BATH oils and anhydrous liquids, us at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com .renders The processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also the The processing oflarge NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the • with usto at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com . comes The suitability and safety of aofformulation should be be be us at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com . renders by preliminary tests or otherwise the suitability of any The processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the The suitability and safety of a formulation should The suitability and safety a formulation should to absorb and carry large quantities of oils and anhydrous liquids, Bath powders starch water soluble so that once the starch in contact Features and benefits Hydrophilic Water solubility Moscow, Russia and Caribbean Mumbai, starch water soluble so that once the starch comes incontact contact with Features and benefits starch water soluble so that once the comes in contact Features benefits Hydrophilic Water solubility Hydrophilic Water solubility confirmed in all respects by herein the user prior to use. The starch water soluble so that once the starch comes inin with Features and benefits such asIndia bath oils. The starch is processed in astarch manner that creates •with Carrier for oils product and of confirmed any information contained confirmed all respects by the user prior to use. ininall respects by the user prior to use. TheThe starch water soluble so that once the starch comes in and benefits starch water soluble so that once the comes contactwith Features and benefits When used in astarch bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH starch water soluble so that the comes incontact contact with Features and benefits When used in adissolves, bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH as bath oils. is processed instarch astarch manner that creates •with CarrierFeatures forFeature oils When in6700 aThe bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH For use in anhydrous formulas Mexico City, Mexico Tsuch +91 22used 6842 T +7once 495 766 1606 water itit immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils. contained herein supersedes previously (including butinformation not limited to formulation and toxicity Benefit For use inalland/or anhydrous formulas For use in formulas All information concerning our products and/or allanhydrous water immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils. water it immediately releasing the loaded oils. information contained herein supersedes all previously information contained herein supersedes all USA Canada China Europe “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially inthe aloaded solid, powder form.contact • Anhydrous skin care formulas Feature Benefit water ititand immediately dissolves, releasing loaded oils. For more information and sample formulations contact Feature Benefit All information concerning our products all previously All information concerning our products and/or all Feature Benefit USA and Canada China Europe water immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded oils. USA and Canada China Europe For more information and sample formulations contact water it immediately dissolves, releasing the oils. For more information and sample formulations information) for the user’s purpose. The safety of any starch carries the oils in a powder form into the bath, but readily issued bulletins on the subject matter covered. suggestions for handling and use contained herein Feature Benefit “pockets” that can carry the oils essentially in a solid, powder form. • Anhydrous skin care formulas Feature Benefit water it immediately dissolves, releasing theinto loaded oils. T +52 55 5261 7895 For more information and sample formulations contact starch carries the oils in a powder form into the bath, but readily Feature Benefit issued bulletins on the subject matter covered. suggestions forfor handling andand use contained herein starch carries the oils in a powder form the bath, but readily issued bulletins on the subject matter covered. Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden Chicago, USA suggestions handling use contained herein Oil adsorbency In combination with its water (including and toxicity information) are Theus processing BATH starch the. Shanghai, China also renders Stenungsund, Sweden Chicago, USAof NATRASORB formulations described hereinformulation has not solubility been established. Oil adsorbency adsorbency In combination its water Chicago, USA Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden Hydrophilic Water Oil In combination with its water (including formulation and toxicity information) arewith at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com (including formulation and toxicity information) are The processing of NATRASORB BATH starch also renders the Hydrophilic Water solubility us at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com . NATRASORB T +1 800 906 9977 TT+86 21 2220 5000 TT+46 303 850 00 into us at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com .them releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them the offered good faith and should are believed to be reliable. Hydrophilic Water solubility Hydrophilic The suitabilityProducts Water solubility us at . 303 and safety of in aWater formulation bebelieved When used in aafragrances/emulsifiers, bath formulation, BATH solubility itNouryon delivers oil,oil, fragrances TPersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com +1 800 906 +86 21 2220 5000 +46 850 releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the offered in good faith and areare believed to be reliable. Hydrophilic Water solubility mentioned are trademarks ofexpress Tin+46 303 850 0000 T starch +1 800 906 9977 Tpowder +86 21 2220 5000 releases the oils/ dispersing into the offered in good faith and toor be reliable. Hydrophilic solubility water soluble so that once the starch comes contact with Features and benefits When used in bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH Hydrophilic Water solubility For use in anhydrous solubility itformulas fragrances However, Nouryon makes no warranty When used aa9977 bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH mentioned are trademarks ofexpress Nouryon When used in ain powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH solubility itformulas delivers oil, fragrances Products mentioned are trademarks ofdelivers Nouryon For use in anhydrous confirmed inand allProducts respects by the user prior to use. The However, Nouryon makes no warranty or starch water soluble so that once the starch comes in contact with Features and benefits When used inbath bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH For use in anhydrous formulas For use in anhydrous formulas registered inas many countries. However, Nouryon makes no warranty express orcoming in When used in a bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH When used in a bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH implied (i) to the accuracy or sufficiency of such warm water. The starch itself provides a soft feel to the bath water, For use in anhydrous formulas or emulsifiers, when starch carries the oils in a powder form into the bath, but readily and registered in many countries. For use in anhydrous For use in anhydrous formulas implied (i)(i) as tomany the accuracy or sufficiency of such warm water. The starch itself provides aoils. soft feel to the bath water, water it immediately dissolves, releasing theinto loaded oils. or emulsifiers, coming in in information contained herein supersedes all previously South East Asia Middle East South America and registered in countries. starch carries the oils aSouth powder form the bath, but readily Feature Benefit starch carries the oils in ain powder form the bath, but readily implied as to the accuracy or sufficiency ofwhen such All information concerning our products and/or allor warm water. The starch provides ainto soft feel to the bath water, Oil In combination with itsformulas water information and/or suggestions, as to any product’s emulsifiers, when USA and Canada China Europe East Asia Middle East South America starch the oils in aSouth form into the bath, but readily water itcarries immediately dissolves, releasing the loaded For more information and sample formulations contact All(ii)information concerning ourcoming products and/or starch carries the oils in aitself powder form into the bath, but readily Feature Benefit Oiladsorbency adsorbency In combination with its water information and/or suggestions, (ii)with as to any product’s Oil In and combination its water USA and Canada China Europe South America East Middle East contact water starch carries the oils apowder into the bath, but readily issued bulletins on subject matter covered. suggestions forthe handling use contained herein All information concerning our products an starch carries the oils in ain powder form into the bath, but readily merchantability or fitness forwith a particular use or (iii) that Oil adsorbency Inand/or combination with its water information (ii) as to any product’s Itupeva, Brazil Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates but does not settle or leave aAsia film. The NATRASORB BATH starch Oiladsorbency adsorbency In combination with its water releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the USA and Canada China Europe contact with water All information our produc Chicago, USA Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden suggestions for handling and use contained her merchantability or fitness for a particular use or (iii)water thatconcerning Oil adsorbency In with its water solubility itsuggestions, delivers oil, fragrances Itupeva, Brazil Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates but does not settle orpowder leave aform film. The NATRASORB BATH starch Oil adsorbency Incombination combination its water USA and Canada China Europe releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the (including formulation and toxicity information) are contact with any solubility suggested use (including use inwith any formulation) merchantability or fitness for a fragrances particular use (iii) that and use contained suggestions fororhandling Hydrophilic Water solubility it delivers oil, solubility it delivers oil, fragrances Itupeva, Brazil Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates but does not settle or leave a film. The NATRASORB BATH starch Chicago, USA Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the us at PersonalCare.Marketing@nouryon.com . releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the T +55 11 4591 8938 T +65 6635 5183 T +971 4247 1500 any suggested use (including use in any formulation) suggestions for handling and cont T +1 800 906 9977 T +86 21 2220 5000 T +46 303 850 00 solubility it delivers oil, fragrances solubility it delivers oil, fragrances (including formulation and toxicity information) releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the offered in good faith and are believed to be reliable. Hydrophilic Water solubility Chicago, USA Shanghai, Stenungsund, Sweden releases oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the Tthe +55 11 in 4591 8938 Tformulation, +65 6635 5183 Tto +971 4247 1500 will not infringe anyof patent. Nothing contained herein Low density warm water. The starch itself provides aChina feel the bath water, can also blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath used aThe bath powder BATH solubility itNouryon delivers oil, fragrances or emulsifiers, when coming in in and toxicityuse any suggested use (including useoil, in any formulation) Products mentioned are trademarks (including formulation informat solubility itformulas delivers fragrances Chicago, USA Shanghai, China Stenungsund, Sweden warm water. starch provides aaNATRASORB soft feel the bath water, will infringe any patent. Nothing contained herein For shall use innot anhydrous T When +55 11 4591 T itself +65 6635 5183 Tto +971 4247 1500 Lowbulk bulk density warm water. The starch itself provides asoft soft feel to the bath water, or emulsifiers, when coming in However, Nouryon makes no warranty express or or can also be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath When used in8938 abe bath powder formulation, NATRASORB BATH or emulsifiers, when coming T +1 800 906 9977 T +86 21 2220 5000 T +46 303 850 00 offered in good faith and are believed to be info relia (including formulation and toxicity be construed as granting extending any license warm water. The starch itself provides soft to the bath water, For use in anhydrous formulas will not infringe any patent. Nothing contained herein or emulsifiers, when coming in Low bulk density warm water. The starch itself provides a soft feel to the bath water, can also be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath or emulsifiers, when coming and registered countries. Twater, +46 303 850 00 TCentral +1 800 906 9977 Tfilm. +86ainto 21 2220 5000 offered in good faith andinare believed to be shall be construed as or extending any license implied (i)in asmany to the accuracy or sufficiency ofgranting such warm water. The starch itself provides a soft feel to the bath water, contact with water or emulsifiers, when coming in starch carries the oils in aSouth powder the bath, but readily warm water. The starch itself provides soft feel to the bath but does not settle or leave aAsia The NATRASORB BATH starch under any patent. The user must determine for itself or emulsifiers, when coming in However, Nouryon makes noand warranty express t powders with high oil content. America India Russia Tstarch +1 800 906 9977 Ta+86 21 2220 5000 Tstarch +46 303 00 Modified tapioca contact with water South America East Middle offered in good faith believed shall be construed as granting or extending any license contact with water carries the oils in aor powder form into the bath, butEast readily but does not settle or leave film. The NATRASORB BATH starch Naturally-derived Oil 850 adsorbency Inand/or combination with its water information suggestions, (ii)information as to any product’s but does not settle or leave aform film. The NATRASORB BATH starch under any patent. The user must determine for itself However, Nouryon makes no are warranty expr powders with high oil Central America India Russia contact with water All concerning ourto products and/oror all by preliminary tests or otherwise the suitability of any but does not settle leave afilm. film. The NATRASORB BATH starch Oil adsorbency In combination with its water USA and Canada China Europe Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived contact with water implied (i) as the accuracy sufficiency of su contact with water but does not settle leave acontent. The NATRASORB BATH starch under patent. The user must determine for itself makes merchantability or fitness for aany particular use or (iii) that Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia and Caribbean Itupeva, Brazil Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates but does not settle or leave adry film. The NATRASORB BATH starch However, Nouryon warranty powders with high oil content. Central America India Russia releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the by preliminary or otherwise the suitability of any contact with Low bulk density tapioca can also be blended with surfactant to formulate foaming bath but does not settle oror leave aShanghai, film. The NATRASORB BATH starch implied (i)use as to the accuracy sufficiency o Modified starch Naturally-derived suggestions for water handling and contained herein orno product and of anytests information contained herein solubility it delivers oil, fragrances South America South East Asia Middle East and Caribbean Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia releases the oils/ fragrances/emulsifiers, dispersing them into the Biodegradable Low bulk density can also be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath any suggested useit(including use inofany formulation) Low bulk density information and/or suggestions, (ii) as to any pro can also be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath by preliminary tests or otherwise the suitability of any solubility delivers oil, fragrances Chicago, USA China Stenungsund, Sweden product and any information contained herein ™ T +55 11 4591 8938 T +65 6635 5183 T +971 4247 1500 South America South East Asia Middle East Mexico City, Mexico Tdry +91surfactant 22 6842 6700 T +7 495 766 1606 implied (i)and/or as to the accuracy orassufficie Biodegradable Low bulk density can also be blended with to formulate foaming bath (including but not contained limitedformulation to herein formulation and toxicity and Caribbean Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia (including and toxicity information) are ™ with information suggestions, (ii) to any Introducing Ashland texturpure sa-1 ingredient, a naturally-derived and biodegradable texturing and will not infringe any patent. Nothing Low bulk density warm water. The starch itself provides a soft feel to the bath water, Low bulk density can also be blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath can also be blended dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath or emulsifiers, when coming in Mexico City, Mexico T +91 22 6842 6700 T +7 495 766 1606 product and of any information contained herein Introducing Ashland texturpure sa-1 ingredient, a naturally-derived and biodegradable texturing and (including butthe not limited tomerchantability formulation and toxicity or fitness for a particular or South America South East Asia Middle East powders with high oil content. Dubai, United Arab Emirates Itupeva, Brazil Singapore Biodegradable Aesthetic enhancer a use Low bulk density warm The starch itself provides soft toused theTbath water, can also be blended with dry tofeel formulate bath emulsifiers, when coming in information) for user’s purpose. The safety of any Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived with high oil content. information and/or suggestions, (ii) as Tpowders +1 800 906 9977 Tsurfactant +86 21a2220 5000 Tfoaming 303 850 00 The BATH starch can be as a+46 carrier and aa Modified offered in good faith and areenhancer believed todelivering bedelivering reliable. Twater. +52NATRASORB 55 5261 7895 shall or be construed as granting or extending any license merchantability or fitness for ainparticular uset powders with high oil content. Dubai, United Arab Emirates Itupeva, Brazil Singapore tapioca starch Naturally-derived Mexico City, Mexico Tcontent. +91 22 6842 6700 +7 495 766 1606 Aesthetic aformula (including but notuser’s limited tonot formulation and toxicity information) for the purpose. The safety of any Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived powders with high oil any suggested use (including use any The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used as a carrier and T +52 55 5261 7895 contact with water formulations described herein has been established. but does not settle or leave a film. The NATRASORB BATH starch Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived under any patent. The user must determine for itself However, Nouryon makes no warranty express or powders with high oil content. Central America India Russia T55+55 11high 4591 T +65 6635 5183 T +971 4247 1500 contact with water merchantability or fitness for in a particul powders with high oil content. Itupeva, Brazil Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates suspension agent for sustainable hair and body care. Our expertise in technology brings a rich, feel any suggested use (including use any form but does not or8938 leave a film. The NATRASORB BATH Aesthetic enhancer delivering ah Biodegradable Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived formulations described herein has been established. information) for thesoft purpose. The safety of any Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived powders with oil content. The NATRASORB BATH starch can becare. used asOur astarch carrier and asustainable The and safety ofuser’s aa formulation should be suspension agent for sustainable hair and body expertise in sustainable technology brings rich, T +52 5261 7895 Biodegradable will notnot infringe any patent. Nothing contained TCaribbean +55 11settle 4591 8938 Tsalt +65 6635 5183 T +971 4247 1500 by preliminary tests orsuitability otherwise the suitability of any manufacturing aid for bath applications. As earlier, Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived soft feel Biodegradable implied (i) as to the accuracy or sufficiency of(including such and Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia The suitability and safety ofherein auser formulation should be any use use inany an Biodegradable will not infringe any patent. Nothing contain formulations described has not been established. Low density can also beblended blended with dry surfactant to formulate foaming bath manufacturing aid for bath salt applications. Asdescribed described earlier, confirmed in all respects by the prior tosuggested use. product and of any information contained herein South East Asia Middle East South America Aesthetic enhancer delivering agranting Biodegradable Tand +55 11 4591 8938 T 6842 +65 6635 5183 Tand +971 4247 1500 shall be construed as or extending bulkbulk density can also be with dry surfactant to formulate bath soft feel The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used aAs carrier aLow information and/or suggestions, (ii) as to any product’s Aesthetic delivering aThe Biodegradable About Nouryon confirmed in allenhancer respects by the user prior to infringe use. The elegant experience lasting suspension to shampoos and cleansers. The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used afoaming carrier and a cleansers. Mexico City, Mexico T bath +91 22 6700 Tas +7as 495 766 1606 The and safety of ashall formulation should be Biodegradable contained herein supersedes allnot previously (including but notinformation limited tosuitability formulation and toxicity Aesthetic enhancer delivering agranting will any patent. co be construed as orNothing extending manufacturing aid for salt applications. described earlier, the starch can be used to absorb the oils and fragrances used in a The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used as a carrier and a Aesthetic enhancer delivering a elegant experience and lasting suspension to shampoos and About Nouryon under any patent. The user must determine for India Russia Central America The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used as a carrier and a merchantability or fitness for a particular use or (iii) that powders with high oil content. Itupeva, Brazil Singapore Dubai, United Arab Emirates information herein supersedes all previously softcontained feel Aesthetic enhancer information) for the user’s purpose. The of any issued bulletins on thesafety subject matter covered. confirmed in all respects by thedelivering userany prior to a use.The The user Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived the starch can be used to absorb the oils and fragrances used in a powders with high oil content. soft feel The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used as a carrier and a T +52 55 5261 7895 under patent. must determine Aesthetic enhancer delivering a shall be construed as granting or exten Modified tapioca starch Naturally-derived Central America India Russia manufacturing aid for bath salt applications. As described earlier, TheNATRASORB NATRASORB BATH starch can be used adescribed carrier and aearlier, soft feel Aesthetic delivering by (including preliminary tests ora otherwise the suitability o aid for bath salt applications. As earlier, AboutWe Nouryon any suggested use use in previously any formulation) issued bulletins on theenhancer subject matter covered. formulations described herein has not been established. soft feel The BATH starch can be used as as astarch carrier and aearlier, are aa global global specialty specialty chemicals leader. Markets worldwide rely on information contained herein supersedes all Tmanufacturing +55 4591 8938 T India +65 6635 5183 Tis+971 4247 1500 manufacturing aid for bath salt applications. As described and11 Caribbean Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded mixed with the the starch can be used to absorb the oils and fragrances used insalt amake sure you soft feel by preliminary tests orThe otherwise the suitabi Biodegradable manufacturing aid for bath salt applications. As described under any patent. user must deter Central America Russia We are chemicals leader. Markets worldwide rely on The suitability and safety ofmentioned a formulation should be Biodegradable product and of any information contained herei will not infringe any patent. Nothing contained herein Products are trademarks of Nouryon soft feel manufacturing aid for bath salt applications. As described earlier, and Caribbean Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia Contact your Ashland sales representative or distribution partner today to are among the first to bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded starch is mixed with the salt issued bulletins on the subject matter covered. soft feel the starch can be used to absorb the oils and fragrances used a 1606to make sure the starch can be used to absorb the oils and fragrances used in495 aintoday manufacturing aid for bath salt As described earlier, product and oflimited anytests information contained h confirmed in all respects by the user prior to use. Contact your Ashland sales representative or distribution partner you are among the to Products mentioned are trademarks ofpreliminary Nouryon T as +7 Mexico City, Mexico Tapplications. +91 22 6842 6700 byfirst or otherwise thetox su manufacturing aid for bath salt applications. As described earlier, Aesthetic enhancer delivering agranting and registered indelivering many countries. shall be construed as or extending any license (including but not to formulation and the starch can be used to absorb the oils and fragrances used in766 a salt The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used as astarch carrier and asalt, We are a global specialty chemicals leader. Markets worldwide rely on Aesthetic enhancer aThe our essential chemistry in the manufacture of everyday products such granules, the starch naturally adheres well to the eliminating About Nouryon the starch can be used to absorb the oils and fragrances used in495 The NATRASORB BATH starch can be used as aproducts carrier and amixed and Caribbean Mumbai, India Moscow, Russia bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded is with information contained herein supersedes all previously Mexico City, Mexico Tyour +91 22 6842 6700 Tthe +7 766 1606 and registered in any many countries. (including but not limited to formulation and the starch can be used to absorb the oils and fragrances used in aa the ™When under patent. The user must determine itself our essential chemistry in manufacture of everyday such as granules, the starch naturally adheres well to the salt, eliminating product and of anyfor information contai bath salt formula. the oil-loaded starch is mixed with the the user’s purpose. The safety o Central America India Russia mentioned trademarks offor Nouryon receive a free sample of texturpure bath salt formula. When oil-loaded starch isfragrances mixed with salt sa-1 for sustainable formulation developments. softonfeel Tthe +52 55 5261 7895 issued bulletins theProducts subject matter covered.are information) ™ the the starch can be used to absorb the oils and used insalt asaltno soft feel the starch can be used to absorb the oils and fragrances used in a manufacturing aid for bath salt applications. As described earlier, bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded starch is mixed with the information) for the user’s purpose. The safe receive a free sample of texturpure sa-1 for your sustainable formulation developments. by preliminary tests or otherwise the suitability of any manufacturing aid for bath salt applications. As described earlier, bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded starch is mixed with the salt T +91 22 6842 6700 T +7 495 766 1606 Mexico City, Mexico the necessity for a fixative. Within the package, there is virtually T +52 55 5261 7895 and registered in many countries. formulations described herein has not been esta (including but not limited to formulatio We are a global specialty chemicals leader. Markets worldwide rely on paper, plastics, building materials, food, pharmaceuticals, and personal care our essential chemistry ingranules, the manufacture everyday products such as and Caribbean Mumbai, Indiawell Moscow, Russia the starch naturally adheres well to the salt, eliminating bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded starch mixed with the salt granules, the starch naturally adheres well toisis the salt, eliminating the necessity for aof fixative. Within the package, there virtually granules, the starch naturally adheres to salt, eliminating described has notshoul been product and of any information contained herein Products mentioned are trademarks of Nouryon paper, plastics, building materials, food, pharmaceuticals, and personal Theformulations suitability and safety of herein a formulation bath salt formula. When the starch mixed with the salt no information) for the user’s purpose. Th the starch can be used to absorb the oils and fragrances used aiscare bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded starch isthe mixed with salt the starch can be used tonaturally absorb the oils and fragrances used in495 ainthe granules, the starch naturally adheres well to the eliminating Tin +52 55 5261 7895 granules, the starch adheres well to the salt, eliminating Mexico City, Mexico T oil-loaded +91 22 6842 6700 Tsalt, +7 766 1606 separation offor starch from the salt. registered in many countries. Adsorptionandcharacteristics (including but not limited toin formulation and The suitability and safety of auser formulation sh ashland.com/texturpure our essential chemistry the manufacture of everyday products such as granules, the starch naturally adheres well to the salt, eliminating confirmed all respects bytoxicity the prior use items. Building on our nearly 400-year the dedication of our 10,000 the necessity for athe fixative. Within the package, there is virtually the necessity ahistory, fixative. Within the package, there issalt virtually formulations described herein hastonot the necessity for athe fixative. Within the package, there is virtually no no no paper, plastics, building materials, food, pharmaceuticals, and personal care separation of starch from the salt. Adsorption characteristics ashland.com/texturpure bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded starch is mixed with the salt information) for information theconfirmed user’s purpose. The safety of any bath salt formula. When the oil-loaded starch is mixed with the in all respects by the user prior to Tthe +52 55 5261 7895 granules, the starch naturally adheres well to the salt, eliminating items. Building on our nearly 400-year history, the dedication of our 10,000 the necessity for a fixative. Within the package, there is virtually no granules, the starch naturally adheres well to the salt, eliminating containedand herein supersedes all pre necessity foraacharacteristic fixative.Within Withinisthe the package,for there isvirtually virtually no The suitability safety of a formulati The adhesion important both manufacturing the necessity for fixative. package, there is no formulations described herein has not been established. % mineral oil paper, plastics,and building materials, food, pharmaceuticals, and personal care separation of the starch from the salt. Adsorption characteristics information herein supersedes al separation of the starch from the salt. Adsorption characteristics issued bulletins contained oninthe subject matter covered. separation of the starch from the salt. Adsorption characteristics employees, our shared commitment to business growth, strong financial granules, the starch naturally adheres well to the salt, eliminating The adhesion characteristic is important for both manufacturing granules, the starch naturally adheres well to the salt, eliminating End point confirmed all respects by the user pr % mineral oil The suitability and safety ofbulletins a formulation should be matter cover items.employees, Building onand ourour nearly 400-year the dedication of our thenecessity necessity for ahistory, fixative. Within the package, there is 10,000 virtually separation the starch from the salt. Adsorption characteristics separation ofaof the starch from the salt. Adsorption characteristics the for fixative. Within the package, there is virtually no no Adsorption issued on the subject shared commitment to business growth, strong financial adsorbed (w/w) uniformity and prolonged packaging stability. separation of the starch from the salt. characteristics End point The adhesion characteristic isthe important for both manufacturing The adhesion characteristic important for both manufacturing confirmed in all%respects by the prior to use. herein The contained supersed Exclusive Agents in%information South Africa items. Building on our nearly 400-year theisthe dedication of our 10,000 mineral oil mineral oiluser the necessity ahistory, fixative. Within package, there is virtually the necessity forfor acharacteristic fixative. 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BATH starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing the oils paper, plastics, building materials, food, pharmaceuticals, and personal care BATH starch dissolves readily and completely, releasing the oils 293 industry-leading brands includes Eka, Dissolvine, Trigonox, and Berol. growth, and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. employees, and our shared commitment business strong financial Saturation (Glistening) 293 293 moretrademark, information visit surfacechemistry.nouryon.com. items. Building on our nearly history, the dedication of ourestablished 10,000 and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. Saturation (Glistening) ® For Registered Ashland or itsperformance, subsidiaries, registered in400-year various countries ™toTrademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries; and fragrance without leaving any residual particulates. safety, sustainability, and innovation, we have a Saturation (Glistening) 293 items. 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Performance Performanceproperties properties

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HAIR CARE

How to create luxuriously sustainable textures in shampoos and cleansers

The need for ecologically-sound products is fast becoming a necessity with the rise of the conscious consumer and global trends for clean INCI lists and naturally-derived, sustainable personal care formulations. However certain synthetic ingredients such as the acrylate-based rheology modifier and suspension polymers have proven very difficult to replace without sacrificing consumer experience. By Richard Giles, Tuttu Nuutinen and Eric-Jan de Feij of Ashland

his challenge inspired the solvers at Ashland to develop texturpure™ sa-1. This novel and sustainable ingredient delivers a rich, smooth and luxuriously viscous texture with a clean break on pouring and easy suspension

Texturpure sa-1 is a highly-efficient suspension agent and texturising technology that is compatible with anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants tested to date. It offers excellent long-term stability, matching

of oils and actives in shampoos and cleansing systems. Texturpure sa-1 was developed using Ashland’s expertise in sustainable polysaccharide technologies. It is naturally derived (according to ISO 16128), sustainably and ethically sourced, as well as biodegradable. The product incorporates a specific ratio of high performance clean INCI ingredients (hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (and) cellulose gum (and) xanthan gum), in order to deliver a pleasing sensorial effect and yield value which match or surpass many leading synthetics.

the industry-leading synthetic benchmark, even in challenging sulfatefree formulations. It is complementary to salt curves and compatible with cationic conditioning polymers at typical usage levels.

COMPATIBLE AND EFFICIENT TECHNOLOGY Shampoo and cleansing systems such as shower crèmes and hand soaps typically rely on water-insoluble ingredients, such as natural or silicone oils for conditioning; visual enhancers like opacifiers and mica for appearance; and particulates such as scalp care actives for health benefits or natural scrubbing agents for exfoliation. These essential ingredients are typically formulated in a rinse-off system with a stabilising rheology modifier that has a sufficiently high yield value to provide suspension.

SUPERIOR TO INDUSTRY BENCHMARK Ashland tested multiple shampoos types where texturpure sa-1 was used side by side versus the leading synthetic alternative rheology modifier-suspension agent (carbomer 980 at equivalent active levels). For example, in the rich and caring sulfatefree shampoo – tested in a salon and at home over the four key moments of truth for the consumer – Ashland discovered that texturpure sa-1 matches or is superior to its benchmark across the full sensory spectrum. See Figure 1. The biodegradable texturing and suspension agent also enables a highly conditioned sensorial experience

"Texturpure™ sa-1 is designed to be exceptionally easy to process at scale" 30

FEBRUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

in both silicone-based and silicone-free formulations, as it doesn’t interfere with the conditioning and oil deposition technologies, often resulting in superior conditioning versus the synthetic rheology modifier and stabilising agents.

A SOLUTION FOR SUSTAINABLE FORMULATIONS Ashland’s texturpure sa-1 is designed to be exceptionally easy to process at scale. It is delivered as a 100% active powder,

HAIR CARE

Formulation guide: Rich and caring sulfate-free shampoo (#Z422-2)

Phase

Ingredient

INCI

%w/w

Deionised water

Aqua

q.s. to 100%

Disodium EDTA

0.15

texturpure™ sa-1 ingredient

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (and) Cellulose Gum (and) Xanthan Gum

0.50

Sodium Hydroxide (30%)

Sodium Hydroxide

Deionized Water

Aqua

N-Hance™ 3215 conditioning polymer

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

Iselux LQ-CLR-SB

Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate

cerasynt™ IP stearate ester

Glycol Stearate (and) Stearamide AMP

1.00

Lumerol K 5019*

Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate (and) Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate

8.00

Cocamidopropyl Betaine (30%)

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

8.00

Perfume Petale Blanche

Parfum

0.30

optiphen™ 200 preservative

Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol

1.00

Citric Acid

pH >8.5 10.00 0.30

20.00

Figure 1: Sensorial spectrum – sulfate-free shampoo moments of truth from 1 to 4, tested on a mannequin head of virgin Caucasian hair

MOMENTS OF TRUTH FOR THE CONSUMER

1. On hand: a rich, smooth and viscous product is formed with a clean break when pouring. It also forms a uniform disc on the hand with good shine properties. This ingredient is most effective for opacified, pearlised or translucent systems. 2. On hair: it glides over hair smoothly with a cushioned feel, coating the hair from end to end, lathers easily and boosts foam providing a rich foam with small bubbles. 3. Rinsing: easy to rinse without foamy residues or buildup. Hair is tangle-free and manageable. 4. After-feel: fresh, detangled and easy to comb.

q.s. Total: 100%

Table 1: This formula has passed a three-month accelerated lab stability test and a 28-day challenge efficacy test. Claim concepts include “rich and luxurious in-shower experience”, “mild and caring cleansing with dense creamy foam”, “biodegradable and sustainable formulation”, “clean INCI”, “acrylates-free” and “microplastic-free”. *Biodegradability assessment excludes perfume

which can be easily processed in cold water, solubilising in just 20 to 30 minutes with regular mixing. It is recommended for sustainable formulation development, such as acrylates-free and biodegradable hair and skin cleansing systems

where either a luxurious sensory effect is desired, or the suspension of conditioning oils or actives is required. Texturpure sa-1 is available locally from IMCD South Africa. • Ashland – www.ashland.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com/en

Figure 2: Texturpure sa-1 ingredient enables superior wet-combability versus a leading synthetic alternative

KEY FEATURES AND BENEFITS: • suspends oils and particulates in cleansing systems • boosts consumer-relevant sensory parameters • on hand – clean break, rich smooth texture • in hair – glides and coats hair, and provides a rich foam • rinsing – quick and easy without any residues • after-feel – hair is smooth and detangled • naturally-derived (>86 %, ISO 16128, calc.) • enables high-naturality formulations • sustainably-sourced • biodegradable • vegan suitable • clean INCI • GMO-free • easy to use in manufacturing • cold water-soluble powder • heat and salt tolerant. WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FEBRUARY 2022

HAIR CARE

Feeding hair back to beauty with superfoods The personal care industry has seen a lot of growth in the trend where lines are blurred between food and hair care. According to a 2019 Mintel report, 31% of Chinese consumers are interested in trying hair care products formulated with superfood ingredients. Considering consumer interest in personal care formulas designed with food-based ingredients, Vantage offers formulators an ideal emulsion technology that allows you to introduce this concept in hair care products.

antage Specialty Ingredients (Vantage) presents CoconutAvocado Hair Milk – a stable, water-thin, oil-in-water emulsion designed specifically for use in hair care. Utilising oils with known benefits for hair, it is prepared by ultrasonic cavitation along with a plantbased, biomimetic phospholipid resulting in the formation of micro-droplets. CoconutAvocado Hair Milk incorporates carefully selected botanical ingredients, resulting in a multi-functional product that provides proper oil and moisture balance with an improvement in shine, frizz and overall appearance of the hair. The emulsion easily penetrates and nourishes hair. With nearly half of its fatty acid profile made up of lauric acid, coconut oil has a natural affinity for hair. Hair protein easily binds with lauric acid, which can gradually lead to the strengthening of hair strands, reducing breakage. In ad-dition, the well-known qualities associated with coconut derivatives such as purification and revitalisation, are subsequently beneficial for the hair. Avocado oil, rich in fatty acids and vitamins essential for healthy hair and skin, imparts an overall luxurious and creamy feel.

SUPERFOODS WITH EXCELLENT BENEFITS Coconut and avocado are two exceptional superfoods that are widely used in personal care due to their beneficial

FEBRUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

A shampoo containing 1% Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk helps to improve the appearance of damaged hair

properties that support beautiful, healthy skin and hair. Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk utilises the high-quality oils Lipovol™ C-76 (Coconut Oil) and Lipovol™ A (Avocado Oil), along with Distinctive™ Coconut Water, resulting in an easy-to-use ingredient that is effective in reducing frizz and improving shine and hair’s overall appearance. Coconuts have been used for centuries in tropical countries as a source of food. Their moisturising and hydrating properties are also well-known and, in traditional medicine, coconuts are used to treat wounds and burns, and address hair loss. Featuring high levels of lipids, including myristic acid and palmitic acid along with

medium-chain triglycerides (lauric, caprylic, capric and caproic acids), coconut oil has superior absorption, conditioning, fortifying and emollient properties. Coconut water naturally contains electrolytes, amino acids, vitamins, cytokinins and minerals, which are highly beneficial to skin and hair. Native to Mexico and South America, the precious fruit of the avocado tree has been used for many centuries for its intense hydration and conditioning properties on skin and hair. The multifunctional botanical oil of avocado fruit is rich in antioxidants and contains high levels of omega-6 and -9 fatty

HAIR CARE

"Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk incorporates carefully selected botanical ingredients"

acids as well as vitamin E. It is ideal for improving the absorption and spreadability of formulas, and for creating a high-gloss finish.

FORMULATING WITH THE HAIR MILK Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk is stable, versatile and easy to use. It is even suitable for sprayable and cold process formulas. The recommended use level of this milk is up to 20% in a variety of hair care applications, including shampoos, conditioners, masks, treatments and styling products. It can also be promoted at 100% as a booster ingredient for consumers to mix with their existing beauty products for skin and hair. A study was conducted to measure the effects of systems containing CoconutAvocado Hair Milk on the level of shine on damaged hair. The damaged hair tress was treated with a shampoo containing 1% Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk and a separate damaged hair tress was treated with a mask treatment containing 10% Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk. Both systems showed a noticeable increase in shine compared to that of the damaged control.

+40%

Dry combing improvement

RESTORING BALANCE STUDY Gene expression studies conducted on the special phospholipid found in Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk show its ability to regulate genes and pathways responsible for bringing hair and skin into balance. The inclusion of this phos¬pholipid also aids in the structuring and stabilisation of the emulsion. The care¬fully selected combination of these ingredients in this milk helps to fortify and condition hair, resulting in enhanced gloss and softness.

In two separate studies on damaged hair, the effects of a shampoo containing 1% CoconutAvocado Hair Milk (study 1) and a mask treatment containing 10% Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk (study 2) were observed. Both studies revealed that systems containing Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk helped

The hair from study 1 and study 2 was then evaluated using the Aramo TS with lens X-1000. Based on observations, both systems showed that the Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk helped to reduce flaking, closed the cuticle and improved the overall condition of the hair. •

Vantage Specialty Ingredients – kim.maccallum@vantagegrp.com

+21%

Shine increase

99.8%

DAMAGED HAIR STUDY

HAIR FRIZZ AND APPEARANCE STUDY

+160%

ISO16128 - NOI

to improve the appearance of damaged hair. In addition, both increased hair’s moisturisation, improved the feel of the hair and noticeably reduced the level of frizz.

Heat resistance

China IECIC 2015

VEGAN

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FEBRUARY 2022

HAIR CARE

Scalp care is the new skin care First mentioned about three years ago, the “skinification of hair” is on the rise. The trend is driven by consumer interest in using trusted skin care ingredients and rituals for their hair care routines.

Organic Raw and Refined Shea Butter Avocado Butter Organic Grape Seed Oil Organic Castor oil Hydrolysed Wheat Protein Olivem 1000, 900 & 300 Rhassoul & Bentonite clays BTMS 25%

Natural Hair Care Ingredients www.nauticaorganics.com 083 266 2657

FEBRUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

rowded cities, combined with the effects of the pandemic on our emotional wellbeing, have created significant challenges in terms of our quality of life. These challenges impact scalp health both directly and indirectly. Other stressors, according to data published by The Lancelet, include the association of long-term COVID-19 infection with hair loss, or the behavioural change of 42% of Brazilians who are taking longer showers to suppress stressrelated signs. These stressors have challenged the market to create more effective cosmetics directed at healthier scalps.

"Polluout provides protection against pollution particles and photodegradation" A study by Mintel shows that almost 80% of the population does not have straight hair and that 20% of people with kinky hair have dry scalp. When considering this specific market, and the need for innovation, there are three drivers that are central to upcoming product launches: 1. Value/convenience – although “step-by-step” care routine is attractive, practicality can gain space in an increasingly challenging economic environment. 2. Develop less reactive formulations – using ingredients that will not harm the scalp is increasingly beneficial for hair treatment products. So, look for alternatives that offer low reactivity and high safety when applied to hair. 3. Textures that mimic a skin care routine – take a look at skin care scenarios and develop textures that mimic these treatments and offer real benefits during use.

HAIR CARE Placebo

Polluout

Locks of hair treated with 2% Polluout or a placebo and exposed to suspended pollutants

Did you know? Chemyunion is now ISO 14001-certified. The company’s positive efforts, resulting from respect and care for the environment, are a result of the certification. The international standard specifies requirements for the implementation and operation of an environmental management system in organisations, demonstrating that Chemyunion is committed to eliminating the environmental impact of its activities.

INNOVATIVE SCALP PROTECTION SPRAY Represented locally by Chemgrit Cosmetics, Chemyunion has developed a daily scalp protection spray. It is best described as a tonic, which is applied before leaving the house or after taking a shower. The scalp protection spray offers various benefits, such as scalp homeostasis. It fights advanced dandruff cycles, reduces the production of DHT and IL-8, increases keratin 10 and promotes the reduction of oiliness. The inflammatory aspect and reduction of itchiness are its main benefits. It

also improves barrier function thanks to the active ingredient Hygeaphos, which is included in the formulation. The formation of a protective film with antioxidant action safeguards hair from pollution and environmental aggressors. The spray also prevents unpleasant odours and an opaque look on the scalp, while imparting sensory benefits to the hair. All of this is possible thanks to Polluout, an active ingredient with the synergistic action of a plant-derived polysaccharide complex associated with panthenol, xylitol and green tea.

POLLUTION PROTECTION GUARANTEED Test results demonstrated that Polluout provides protection against pollution particles and photodegradation, imparting strong, shiny and supple hair, as well as a healthy scalp. Polluout reduces the deposition of pollutants by 17%, with the following effects: • 62% increase in combability; • 43% increase in hair strength; • brightness maintenance increases by 20% even after exposure to pollutants. This active ingredient can be incorporated into shampoos, conditioners, treatment masks, and finishers. Scalp care is just the beginning of the “skinification” trend, and we will soon be seeing many products and active ingredients that target both the skin and hair categories, with interesting new ideas. This future for upcoming releases has already become a reality at Chemyunion. • Chemgrit Cosmetics – www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za Chemyunion – chemyunion.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FEBRUARY 2022

HAIR CARE

Holistic care for healthy hair

At one time or another, we’ve all found ourselves in the same predicament – to wash or not to wash? Finding the perfect hair-wash schedule to fit one’s busy lifestyle can be near impossible, and consumers are constantly searching for time-saving solutions to help maintain their freshly washed tresses for longer. By Aude Lemoine-Dessaint, Danielle Jamieson and Renata Raffin of Croda

ome consumers are fortunate in that they need only wash their hair once or twice a week. Depending on their hair texture and natural level of sebum, other consumers may prefer to wash their hair more often. Nutrinvent BalanceTM is Croda’s latest vegan-suitable hair care innovation. It has been designed to deliver instant sebum reduction to the scalp, helping to keep hair cleaner for longer. This novel hair care ingredient utilises encapsulation technology that delivers many benefits, in use and in the formulation. The combination of active ingredients encapsulated within Croda’s latest hair care innovation is a blend of plant extracts (98.7% naturally-derived ingredients), which work in harmony to bring balance to hair and scalps that are prone to oiliness. Due to the unique composition of the extracts, they can deliver antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial benefits. These properties contribute to the homeostasis of the scalp and hair to help reduce excess sebum production. From repeated applications, tests have shown clear signs of continual improvement in terms of helping hair look and feel cleaner for longer, resulting in a reduction in the number of washes needed following the use of the product. The encapsulation technology also allows for the slow and controlled release of actives onto the scalp, which helps to deliver longlasting benefits. Once it is applied onto the scalp, the protective lipid capsule begins to break down, slowly releasing the active ingredients contained within.

As a result, the skin on the head (i.e. the scalp) can become oily, just like facial skin. Sebum production is a normal biological function for everyone and is essential to maintain scalp wellness. It can provide a protective barrier against external aggressors and helps to maintain moisture within the hair and scalp at an optimum level. It also supports healthy hair that is smooth and shiny. In the same way that we all have different skin types, from dry to oily and combination, the level of sebum naturally produced on our scalps can also vary, with more than onequarter of the world’s population suffering from excessive scalp oiliness, according to Mintel. However, genetics is not the only contributing factor; hormonal fluctuations and changes in our external environment can also be responsible for an increase in scalp oiliness.

CLEANSING WITH CONDITIONING The overproduction of sebum on the scalp can contribute to several common problems, such as dandruff, inflammation and hair loss. Combined with the undesirable aesthetic of greasy hair, it’s not surprising that anyone who has an oily scalp feels the need to reach for the shampoo bottle more frequently. Although this seems like the best solution

to tackle greasy hair, washing hair more frequently, or even daily, can come with its own set of problems. Frequent hair washing without proper care and conditioning can lead to hair that is more brittle and prone to breakage. Consumers with particularly oily scalps tend to opt for clarifying shampoos that promise deepcleansing benefits, but these formulations are usually not the holy grail they are looking for. Many shampoos contain a higher level of surfactant, which gives that “squeaky clean” feeling and delivers the perception of super clean hair. But without proper conditioning, it can leave hair feeling dry and looking dull.

SKINIFICATION OF HAIR The skin care market is flooded with an array of solutions for a diverse range of skin types, from oily, acne-prone skin, to dry and sensitive skin types. The “skinification of hair” has led to the evolution of the hair care market, with “skintellectual” consumers becoming more educated on the importance of scalp

WHAT CAUSES GREASY HAIR? Sebum is an oily substance composed of various substances including triglycerides, wax esters, squalene and cholesterol, secreted by the sebaceous glands in the skin.

FEBRUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Illustration of Nutrinvent Balance encapsulation system

Did you know? Products such as dry shampoos and water-saving beauty solutions are becoming more popular. Source: Mintel

HAIR CARE

"The hair care market needs to evolve to deliver products that effectively tackle scalp oiliness" the need for sustainable and fast-acting formulas, which can even reduce time spent washing hair. To answer this challenge, consider Nutrinvent Balance for cleaner hair for longer. Read more here: https://bit.ly/3Azj670. •

Sebumeter evaluation results

care. They are moving away from basic hair cleansing routines and more towards holistic care, recognising that healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp. This has led to a demand for

to use growing in popularity. Time is a precious commodity for the modern consumer, so high-performance formulas with long-lasting results are

more innovative product formats and benefits, with multi-step routines to help address their specific needs and concerns. An important consideration when buying hair care products is convenience, with formats that are quick and easy

top of the wish list. The hair care market needs to evolve to deliver products that effectively tackle scalp oiliness without compromising on the condition of the scalp or on hair aesthetics. Add to this

Nutrinvent Balance

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Aude Lemoine-Dessaint is Croda’s marketing manager for beauty care, Danielle Jamieson is marketing coordinator beauty care, and Renata Raffin is the research and technology manager of Croda.

Croda – www.crodapersonalcare.com

Nutrinvent Balance employs a novel encapsulation technology, providing the targeted delivery and controlled release of actives onto the scalp and hair, offering instant sebum reduction on the scalp from the first application. With consumer perceivable effects that continue to improve with repeated applications, Nutrinvent Balance offers consumers the opportunity to adapt their usual hair wash routines, without compromising on scalp wellness or hair aesthetics, for hair that looks and feels cleaner for longer.

Utilises encapsulation technology Provides targeted delivery and the controlled release of actives Consumer perceivable improvements in hair aesthetics Offers consumers the opportunity to adapt their usual hair wash routines

Visit us at www.crodapersonalcare.com Smart science to improve lives

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FEBRUARY 2022

HAIR CARE

Ingestibles –

a go-to solution for hair and scalp care

Ingestible beauty and health supplements are the products to watch for hair and scalp care, writes Toni Carroll, founder of nutricosmetic company My Beauty Luv. With the vast majority of customers turning to a more holistic approach to their beauty concerns, there is a big move towards healthier, more natural solutions.

hile there will always be a place for pharmaceutical-grade solutions, it is exciting to see that ancient remedies, such as neem oil, rosemary, black seed oil and nettle, are becoming popular once again. All of these are available as standalone products or within targeted formulas, for both topical and oral use. To promote a healthy scalp and stronger hair growth, hydrolysed collagen, hydrolysed gelatin, ingestible hydrolysed keratin and simple, good old-fashioned bone broth are among the most exciting ingredients that have emerged during the last two years. Toni Carroll

NEW TECHNOLOGIES Emerging formulation technologies that have caught our attention for future product development include an ingestible and soluble form of keratin with bioavailable oligopeptides, delivering cysteine in a tri-peptide form. The clinical studies on this ingredient have shown impressive results. In the future, the industry may look at this same technology for topical hair and scalp application. Fundamental to this is an understanding that the ingredients are backed by science and developed with the conscious consumer in mind. Consumers want healthy, sexy and strong hair and want to achieve these hair care goals using ingredients that do not harm the planet, which have been ethically sourced and are effective, performing at the professionalgrade level.

FEBRUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

CLEAN, GREEN AND SUSTAINABLE There is no slowing the trend of clean beauty with fewer chemicals. Consumers also want healthy, sustainable, earth-friendly and vegan options from credible sources and with substantiated performance. Both locally and globally, more and more manufacturers and brands are formulating with this ethos in mind. Not only have consumers driven this revolution – or rather, evolution – in product development, but also the state of the planet, our economy and society as a whole have played a substantial part.

"Consumers want healthy, sustainable, earth-friendly and vegan options from credible sources and with substantiated performance" I believe this is brilliant for the industry, as the entire supply chain has to be reshaped around this new psychology of consumer buying. Due to this global shift, the advancements in ingredients alone have been incredible.

KEEP IT SIMPLE AND EFFECTIVE There are many factors to take into account when it comes to scalp and hair care, among them hormones,

stress levels, external environmental factors, diet, age, etc. The best approach to ingestible hair care products remains to keep it simple and effective. Ancient knowledge and modern science tell us what ingredients to use for foundational care. Personally, I am not a fan of over-complicated formulas when it comes to hair and scalp care. We need to nourish from within and sometimes the simpler the solution, the better.

AMPLE ROOM FOR INNOVATION Although there is hype from a number of experts on a merger of the hair, scalp care, skin care and wellness categories, I believe it will still be a couple of years before we see an integration of any magnitude. Consumer demand across these categories may have aligned, but they are viewed in a different light. Hair care is still seen as the “rock ’n roll” of the professional beauty industry, whereas skin care is perceived as gentle and soothing classical jazz. Having said that, as technology increases, innovation will continue in the scalp care category. I do foresee an increase in personal home devices for scalp care and treatment. In fact, there is still a gap in the South African market for advancement and innovation. • My Beauty Luv – www.mybeautyluv.com

HAIR CARE

Biodegradable guar ingredients for eco-friendly beauty care Solvay, a global leader in naturally-derived polymers for beauty care formulations, has launched two new biodegradable grades (classified inherently ultimately biodegradable) to its Jaguar® range of guar-based polymers.

aguar C500 STD and Jaguar HP-8 COS SGI will enable formulators to produce beauty care solutions with superior benefits and desirable biodegradability claims, thereby responding to stringent global regulations and the changing expectations of consumers searching for more responsible, sustainable products. “Consumers are becoming more aware of how their actions impact the planet,” explains Stephanie Neplaz, global marketing innovation director, hair care at Solvay. “This means they are looking for beauty products made with biodegradable ingredients that have a positive impact on their hair or skin as well as on the planet.”

SUSTAINABLE GUAR SOURCING The guar beans used to create Jaguar polymers are sourced in India where Solvay supports sustainable guar sourcing. The Sustainable Guar Initiative forms part of the group’s powerful sustainability agenda and sees the implementation of best farming practices to improve guar quality. The initiative also ensures supply security while farmers earn a better living, precious groundwater is conserved and women from the region are empowered.

BEAUTY TRANSFORMATION INITIATIVE “We are constantly investing in innovation and technology to develop our Jaguar portfolio,” says Jean-Guy Le Helloco, global

vice president, home and personal care at Solvay. “We also have more innovations on the horizon, such as next generation biodegradable polymers.” The sustained leadership of Solvay’s technology clearly demonstrates the group’s willingness to give customers the best possible service. This commitment is also the essence of Solvay’s new Beauty for the Planet initiative aimed at accelerating the transformation of sustainable beauty ideas into concrete day-to-day actions, through innovation and partnerships with customers. • Solvay – www.solvay.com

Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz

Sensetek.indd 1

2017/03/02 11:50 AM

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FEBRUARY 2022

PACKAGING: INSPECTION & DETECTION

A cost-effective way to prioritise patient safety and traceability requirements

Damaged or contaminated packaging can adversely affect how distributors and consumers perceive product quality and may result in costly product recalls. TracePack’s machine vision, deep learning, barcode reading and barcode verification technology can help safeguard packaging from contaminants and defects. These systems detect wrong or missing items, prevent counterfeiting, ensure label and code quality, boost productivity and help to achieve compliance with patient safety and traceability requirements.

ational and international legislation is forcing pharmaceutical manufacturers to implement complete traceability of their production within the entire value-added chain, utilising track-and-trace systems. Such systems guarantee a high level of process and product safety, which are fundamental features in the pharmaceutical industry. In addition, TracePack can help pharmaceutical manufacturers make sure the primary product meets specifications, particularly in contamination detection and weight, using TracePack’s inspection equipment, which is specific to the pharmaceutical industry, ensuring the highest production quality.

PRIMARY PACKAGING INSPECTION CHALLENGES Before tablets are placed into blister packs, bottles, or other packaging, they must undergo visual defect detection to confirm that various feature specifications are met. These include dimensions, surface texture, shape, colour, freedom from surface defects, and moulded or printed labelling. If any of those are incorrect or foreign material might potentially contaminate the container, the damaged tablet or contaminating object must be removed. Using deep learning, a manufacturer can automatically detect damaged tablets or pills and foreign matter on a packaging conveyor to prevent recalls or the loss of sales. Tablets and pills are manufactured in a tablet press and may be coated after they emerge from the press. Damaged pills, foreign matter, or even incorrect pills allowed into a container can lead to a recall, resulting in a loss of sales and reputation.

Did you know? The presence of particulates is among the top 10 reasons for recalls of liquid pharmaceuticals.

FEBRUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

EFFECTIVE TABLET INSPECTION Both sides of a tablet must be inspected; tablet inspection is often a manual process due to its visual complexity. In addition, there are many possible challenges to detecting defects and types of foreign material. For example, a product with a reflective coating may appear to be damaged when it is not. This makes it impossible to use conventional machine vision for effective inspection. It is also the reason why manual inspection has survived over time. TracePack’s deep learning solution solves the problem of inspecting large numbers of tablets with high accuracy. The defect detection tool detects any tablets with anomalies, even when not included in the original training set, passing all good tablets to the primary packaging. As a result, tablets reach the end user undamaged, enhancing brand reputation and minimising recall risk.

"TracePack’s deep learning solution solves the problem of inspecting large numbers of tablets with high accuracy"

SECONDARY PACKAGING CHALLENGES Pharmaceutical manufacturers must inspect vial, ampoule and prefilled syringe packaging for accuracy before distribution. Missing components or packaging defects can affect patient safety and brand reputation, resulting in heavy fines, unwanted waste and costly recalls. With the machine vision, deep learning and barcode reading systems from TracePack, a manufacturer can confirm that vaccine boxes and kits are correctly packaged and properly tracked, and the systems help with compliance with strict regulations. Unfortunately, contaminants present during manufacturing or fragments of the primary packaging itself, including glass, could end up inside a vial or ampoule. Glass particles can result from the manufacturing process, particularly during the blowing function of ampoules or from handling anywhere along the production line. Special lighting is required to penetrate the container and ensures sufficient contrast of the smallest particles of interest to be detected. However, this lighting can also

PACKAGING: INSPECTION & DETECTION

EMBRACE AUTOMATION WITH DEEP LEARNING Deep learning-based vision solutions are designed specifically for factory automation. The field-tested, optimised and proven technology is based on state-of-the-art machine learning algorithms. Rather than following a rule-based approach to solving inspection challenges, like traditional machine vision applications, deep learning solutions from TracePack learn to spot patterns and anomalies from reference image examples. Deep learning automates and scales complex inspection applications that until now still required human inspectors, such as defect detection and final assembly verification.

Fixed-mount barcode readers decipher 1D and 2D codes as small as 3mm to track-and-trace a pharmaceutical product

DEEP LEARNING AND HDR+ TECHNOLOGY Combining TracePack’s deep learning solution with high dynamic range (HDR+) technology is ideal for particulate matter inspection. Deep learning is trained on all types of particles appearing in vials and ampoules – the various shades and sizes, whether mixed with bubbles and their appearance through the range of reflections and refractions of vial and ampoule glass. HDR+ technology minimises halation and reflectivity by producing uniformly illuminated images in a single capture without compromising the line speed.

HDR+ differs from standard HDR as it can be done with a single acquisition at high speed on moving parts, whereas standard HDR would need to be stationary and capture multiple images to obtain the same results. The vial or ampoule cylinder is spun and then stopped to distinguish particles floating in the liquid from surface features. A series of images taken as the particles slow and settle allows deep learning to differentiate between fluid and container spots. •

TracePack – www.tracepack.co.za

Deep learning identifies unwanted particulate matter in glass vials and ampoules to prevent contaminated products from reaching end users

result in confusing reflections and halation. Particles in the liquid can be difficult to identify since they can range from dark to light in colour, move differently in the fluid, are of different sizes and shapes, can be confused with bubbles and are in other container materials and forms with varying light transmission qualities. These factors make this application challenging to solve with conventional machine vision.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FEBRUARY 2022

Tea

time Take a breather

CROSSWORD Across 1. Large American feline (6) 5. Freshwater carnivorous mammal (5) 8. Snakelike fish (3) 9. Edible marine crustacean (7) 10. Lepidopterous insects (5) 11. Adult insect after metamorphosis (5) 12. Sweet liquid attractive to bees (6) 14. Carnivorous marine predators (6) 17. Large group of insects (5) 18. Dromedary (5) 20. Large anthropoid ape (7) 21. Star sign represented by a lion (3) 22. Low animal sound (5) 23. Bloodsucking African fly (6)

Down 2. Young nocturnal bird (5) 3. Aquatic birds (5) 4. Leporid mammal (6) 5. African flightless bird (7) 6. Massive odd-toed ungulate, in short (5) 7. Animal or insect pests (6) 13. Butterfly, Red ___ (7) 15. Large food and game fish (6) 16. Nocturnal wildcat of Central America and South America (6) 17. Insect bite (5) 18. Large long-necked wading bird (5) 19. Hybrid offspring of male donkeys and female horses (5)

To advertise in

contact

Anita Raath

Carla Melless

Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

+27 (0)83 260 6060

www.pharmacos.co.za

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

ADVERTISERS' INDEX Afriplex.....................................................23........www.afriplex.co.za

Mitas Corporation ...............................25........www.tracepack.co.za

Botanichem............................................19........www.botanichem.co.za

Moco Packaging................................ OBC........www.mocopack.co.za

Carst & Walker/Gattefossé ...........27........www.carst.co.za /www.gattefosse.com Nautica Organic Trading ...................34........www.nauticaorganics.com Chemgrit Cosmetics............................35........www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za

Chempack Industries..........................14........www.cpack.co.za

Savannah Fine Chemicals.................21........www.savannah.co.za / cosmetics.covestro.com

CJP Chemicals ....................................OFC........www.cjpchemicals.co.za

Sensetek .................................................39........www.sensetek.co.za

Croda SA .................................................37........www.crodapersonalcare.com

Society Of Cosmetic Chemists.......... 9........www.coschem.co.za

Ethanol SA...............................................28........www.ethanolsa.co.za / www.ethanolsashop.co.za

Specialised Exhibitions........................ 5........www.propakafrica.co.za

IJP Filling & Labelling..........................IFC........www.labelling.co.za

Symrise SA .............................................15........www.symselect.com / www.symrise.com

IMCD SA ..................................................29........ashland.com/texturpure

Vantage Specialty Chemicals ..........33........www.vantagegrp.com

FEBRUARY 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

ONLINE

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ website will find information on membership, educational programmes (specific details pertaining to the Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the personal care industry.

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives

www.coschem.co.za

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

M&L LABORATORY

DALGEN

M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of

Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers, plastic containers,

analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage,

closures and packaging accessories.

Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Phone: +27 (0) 11 661 7914 Cell: +27 (0) 81 399 9737 E-mail: peter.moopeloa@bureauveritas.com

BOTANICHEM

FORMPAK For over 50 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical,

BOTANICHEM is a supplier of specialist ingredients to the cosmetic and personal care industry, with a particular focus on plant-derived ingredients which support sustainable supply and fair-trade practice. We also aim to understand the needs of clients and to source the

food and dairy industries.

appropriate ingredient, at the right price.

Tel: +27 (0) 11 828 8870/1/2 Fax: +27 (0) 11 828 8880

www.botanichem.co.za

email: haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations. If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.

113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com

QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications. Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.com Manufactured, marketed and distributed under licence of SPECTRATEC INC. CANADA Canada . South Africa . Ireland . Germany . Australia . UK

Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. Africa The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices. Printing and frosting facilities are available. Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review February 2022

Articles inside

Cannabinoid molecules and their love of lipid excipients

Tracking cannabis from seed to sale

The great sunscreen cover-up

The beauty of natural and synthetic synergies in personal care preservation

Celebrating the 2020/21 winners